Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-07-28
HOW TO MAKE WAISTS FIT
ROUND SHOULDERED WOMEN
Directions That Short and Long Wasted Women
Should Follow

There mav be dozen women whose
bust measures thirty-eght inches, but
probably not even two of these will be of
the same height or measure exactly the
same number Of inches at bust or hips.
Therefore, it is obvious that a perfect
thirty-eight-nch bust design will not fiji
every woman whose bust measures thirty
eight inches.
There are the shopt-waisted and the
|Iong-waisted figures, the round-shoudered
and the STOPPING form, the woman who
carries herself too cree: and the woman
all to be considered.
Another type that needs attention Is
the one with the wide back and fiat chest.
To begin with, In buying pattern the
tape measure should not be placed around
the largest part of the bust. but. taking
it across the back and around close up
under the arms, :he measure should be
brought slanting upward in the front,
meeting far uo on The chest.
The measure taken closely, though not
tightly drawn. and the number of inches
registered should be given when buying
the pattern.
To decide whether the length is correct.
first measure the pattern and then the
back of the person who is 10 use II. IL
they do not correspond find the discrep-
ancy.
Some persons are long from the neck TO
the under-arm seams and short below
that is, to the waist line-while others are
exactly the reverse, being longer in pro-
portion from under lie arms to the belt.
Suppose the pattern Is longer than the
measurement of the wearer: then a small
tuck must be laid across the pattern al
the necessary point, either above the I'M
der-arm seam or below it, as the measur-
ing indicates.
sCn the contrary. when the figure is alb
normally long wasted then the model
should be cut through and the edges
drawn apart until the required length is
obtained, always taking care that this IN
crease is given at the right place.
To increase or decrease above the un-
der-arm seams. fold or cut exactly mid
way between the neck and this seam. 10
| do the same below the under-arm seam
the alterations should come about two
and one half inches above the waist line.
This rule applies to the back of the pat
tern.
To shorten the fronts the bust measure
being correct. If needed above the under
arm seam, fold en- a line with the tucks IL
the back. and if below the seam, then the
pattern should be cut through and the
paper overlapped.
On account Of the darts i. is impossible
to make an accurate fOld IHere, SO IL IL
better 10 cut the pattern.
To lengthen the pattern proceed as d.
rected for the back. cutting through ano
drawing the edges apart.
Sometimes the bust is just little
larger in proportion than the rest of the
| body When this is the case II is better
| to get the pattern a little smaller than
| the bust measures and let out at the I'M
der-arm seams This will be much less
| trouble than altering the whole pattern
| which will be necessary If it only fits al
| the bust.
When the back is broad and the bust
| small then tuck should be taken from
| the top OF the dart to the front edge first
| and then another very straight fold should
also start from the TOP of the dart and
| take an upward slanting direction toward
| the armhole seam.
When the bust is what is known as ex-
ira large-that is. just at the fulles
point--it Is better to modify Q pattern
! that fits otherwise than to buy a larger
one. To do this. 1t must be cut through
at those points where tapping is used to de
! crease. also through the dart upward from
the lower edge. the edges to be drawn
| apart before placing the pattern on the
| lining. When arranging the pattern !,
| is a good plan to allow the front edges
| of the goods to extend an inch or more
| beyond the pattern. If the bust is large
| as this allowance gives plenty OF free
| dom.
Another type Of figure is the straight
back and large bust. Usually the pattern
that Ats in the front will not be perfeci
In the back. To change, lay tuck across