The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-03
TAPA-MAKING A LOST ART
IN THE ISLES OF HAWAII
An Industry Which FIourished Here in the Early
Days..-How 1t Was Made.--It Is an
Interesting Study.

gray and brown extracted for the col
oring of tapa. from the roots, leaves
and berries of indigenous plants, show
an intimacy with her we well may
envy today.
Earth was used in the mixing of
colors and also for some of the darker
shades, while in the wonderful preser-.
walton of these tints, we see the ingen-
ious use of natures never failing re-
sources.
From two plants, the wauke or pa
per mulberry and the mamake, tapa
was made. The mamake tapa,
though of coarse fiber. was remark
ably strong and useful in many ways.
but for the finer and more desirable
grades the wauke was especially Gull
tivated, and not only did the bark of
this plant furnish material for all the
beautiful tapas of Hawaii, but for
most of its cloth.
By the careful removal of all
branches from its earliest growth, ami
that one unbroken stem might be pro-
duced, this small shrub or tree some
times attained a height of ten or
twelve feet, though the usual height
was not more than six. The bark
was then cut from end to end of the
tree with a sharp shell and removed
in single piece. These strips rolled
into coils and left for some days to
become fit, were then, with the outer
covering removed, immersed in water
In this way resinous substance was
extracted from the bark and it was
prepared for the most important pro-
Of aIi-tha% oF hno ~ hi
operation mallets of heavy wood were
used. These beaters, usually four
sided. We're marked on three sides il.
grooves OF squares, to give a certain
finish to the cloth. The fibrous strips.
taken from the water and laid upon
plank or kua papa. Were by the skill
| full use of the mallet converted into
tapa, the time and labor varying with
| the quality desired, though several
days We're required for the beating Of
even an ordinary piece of cloth. The
bark increased in size under the mall
| let and single strips of wauke We're
often transformed into thin sheets of
| rare quality. while for a cloth of the
largest size, strip after strip was add
| ed. The fbers of these numberless
| pieces becoming closely united by the
| beating sprocess, DR.. Brigham tells US
| tapas of over one hundred and twenty
| five square feet were thus produced.
| To cover such a surface with some in
| tricate pattern, in the old way, must
| have been tedious process.
| The pattern was first cut on the in
side of bamboo stick, then dipped in
| the coloring matter. transferred TO the
| cloth and closely pressed upon it with
I the fingers. This process was repeat
| ed until the entire piece was covered
with the design.
AS the uses Of tapa were manifold
| cloth manufactured for different pur-
poses varied in color, quality and size
| The kappa moe, or sleeping tapa, was
usually three or four yards square;
five sheets Of this size fastened to
| gether formed what was called a
kuina. These sheets were usually white
or some pale shade. with the exeep-
ton of the top one corresponding to
! our counterpart, which was often
beautifully colored and called Kilo-
hama, meaning the best.
The Wailiilii tapa, thicker than or
binary cloth and covered with a gum
| to render it impervious to moisture.
was. on account of its durability. much
in use. From this cloth was made
the malo or loin girdle for men, and
| the pau or skirt for women
1t Is difficult today to realize that
the tapa was once universally worn in
Hawaii Accustomed as we are to see
II used only for table covering or wall
decorati0n-coarse in quality and dark
IN color-we can hardly picture how
| graceful and effective in their simpli-
city, were the tapa garments. often
richly colored, worn in the old days
Fellow was the favorite color for the
dance and few passages from early
writers remind US, not only of the tapas
used on different occasions, but Of the
| old chiefs associated with them, who
live today only in history and song.
| Rev. Mr. Stuart, writing of a dance
| given in honor Of Keopuolani (queen
/ of Kamehameha First. refers TO the
| pa-us Of the dancers in these words,
Their dresses were of beautiful yell
low native cloth, arranged in thick fes-
toons or folds from the waist to the
/ knee. Rev. Mr.. Ellis in his deserip-
/ ton Of a visit 10 Governor Adams (Ku-
| akini) at Kailua, speaks Of dance held
! there, and refers to one of the dancers
in these words, "A beautiful yellow
! tapa was tastefully fastened around his
Tr1~z- -,