The San Francisco call., 1909-04-11

crown it would be pretty on shrred corded
net
Most of the hats shade the face-that is of course
those which have any brim-and some draped with
wide ribbon forming the and part of the brm,
and the of braid is innovation.
of the crowned hats is of dull melon green
with satin brim and all around holding in the
full folds of silk net twisted twigs ending
side bunch Of velvety almonds in their
husks with aigrete of these long pointed leaves all
in the tone.
A large black hat in finest crinoline is trimmed
with big silver edelwess. and their foliage is gray
plush Another Is of scarlet crinoline wreahed
with third white crinoline almost
cred with thick white embroidery black net and
great red and white camea Carelessy laid across the
top Of the low bowl shaped of dropping broad
brimmed hat in fine cyolamen colored straw
long. quills gorgeous OF oriental
tones-copper. sapphire blue topaz ruby, and dull
These caught down with a large rosette
of plated ribbons in various shades
If one has a large hat which seems to have possi-
bities remodeling possibly other things cut
ting off of the brm giving the edge different
shape it is a satisfaction to be able to do the
oneself 1t is easy thing fora novice to
plish, but if she is good needewoman and great
deal of care the chances it will be good looking
piece of work.
Mark off on the bAim the line desired around the
edge; do this taor's chalk; then the brim off
exactly this line it is perfectly true in line
everywhere and then strengthen the edge with piece
of fine silk covered wire Start this where the middle
of the back is be- holding it exactly the edge
of the brim take shallow buttonhole stitches about
inch apart and do this entirely around the hat The
stitches should be in deeper than sixteenth
of inch and when the starting point has been
reached let the wire lap by about an inch then cut
it
Next piece of fine crinoline the bias, about
inch wide and long enough to reach around the
edge the brim; through the middle and
then stretching it through the exact middle by holding
1t the first finger of the right hand baste 1T around
the edge of the brm a true bias facing OF
whatever material the hat is to be bound with and 1t
had better be about three inches wide several
lengths together and then holding the middle Of the
width of it the finger the crinoline treated
pin It in position the brtm stretching 1T as it
is pinned In place. sticking the pins straight through
the brim and to the edge. In pinnng this bind
ing it must be stretched much possible, of
not doing the extent of drawing in the
hat edge little.
When the binding has been pinned around the whole
cut it off that 1t exactly not allowing for
at ALL Take it off of the hat and stitch the
ends together in of inch In putting
the binding back the hat see that seam comes
the middle the front if there is
than seam the last joining should comesin the
middle of the back the others the sides If
sibe.
Hold the binding in place the same as before. by
pinnng through the brim the edge. Holding the
side of the hat you in the edge of
the binding first side and then on the other,
trying to tell by feeling that binding is turned in
both sides that it is exactly the same width on
both sides
Stick pins all around the edge at intervals of an
inch and half two inches and it will be found that
the binding fits beautifully, stretching Just enough in
the second putting that stitching that last seam
together did not make 1t too tight
The binding is slip stitched Use hne milli-
ner's needle and thread silk. the material may
seem to require Slip the needle under the edge on one
side and hide the small knot the needle exactly IN
the fold of the binding the edge for distance OF
about quarter Of inch possibly little shorter
disancs bring the needle out stick it through to the