Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-12-12

a rather fortunate thing for women Of limited means that black is so fashion able for evening frocks. It is true, a good black gown may be quite expen sive at first, but it is seryieeable, last ing and may be changed and remodel. ed at comparatively small cost. The all black evening costume of satin charmeuse over which is tunic of ietted net or tulle is perhaps most de- sirable of all. For those who find it too severe to be becoming there are many ways of relieving the intensity of the black. A rather handsome gown is one iR which the plain skirt, made little high, is of black velvet, worh with a bodice of white tulle, heavily beaded with crystals, white and shaded through the grays to black. A won derfui black gown is covered with steel. studded net, with chemisette of silver tulle and trimmings of silver lace, the whole giving out a mysterious moon light shjmering,
 Black is used extensively for both day and evening wear, It is more pop ular than all colOrs put together and it cannot be denied that a well made black costume has an uuassailable charm and distinction. It is, unfortu nately, rather unbeeoming to the wom an past her first freshness, Black vel vet alone may be considered an exeep- tion, for it has vividness and richness of surface that other black goods do not possess Black velvet coat and skirt walking costumes trimmed with fur are attractive from every point of view. Wide welt black corduroy is also be- coming and is fashioned into tailored costumes, usually on the Russian blouse order, Black broadeloth is also used and and eccentric but pretty French frOck, shown in one of the shops, had an overdress of soft black wool cut on the lines of a priest s soutane, with the folded sash and neck finish in charact- CT. This overdress is to be worn with a short skirt of the same material.
 Various methods are used to relieve the sombreness of black costumes. With the coat and skirt frocks are provided charming blOuses of striped or spotted black point esprit, made on a founda- tiOn of lowered brocade or pompOdOur silk. Sometimes gold galloOn stripes the silk under the net, and again the gold gallOOn with little black merely edges the yoke and finishes the collar of the white mousseline guimpe,
 For afternoon entertainments charm ing little frocks are made of black charmeuse. A delightful froek of this kind shows the satin ending just above the bust, with small puffed sleves. The bodice is finished with a tucker of jet ted net, over pale blue and the guimpe and sleeves are of pleated ivory tulle. A simple black velvet froek is made with tunic skirt, plain bodice, cut up in the front little, over black satin girdle and a sort of yoke piece of gold lace which goes straight across the chest and down the shoulders Above this is tucked a cream mousse line collar.
 Some very daring color schemes will be presented in evening gowns this sea son. Flame-colored chiffon moire is one of the new materials. A brilliant pea cock green satin worked with irrides- cent beads is another. More refined in effect, but equally striking, is white satin brOcaded with cOlored blossoms of exaggerated size, and altogether charming and quaint is the mOired silk Poplin in pompadOur effects. Pale vel. low liberty silk made up into a dane ing frock looks not unlike thinly beaten gold, while cloth of gold itself is less pleasing when used in quantity, al though it makes rather ornamental gilt teTing patches, if used under transpar ent fabrics.
 Silk cashmere in all the exquisite eve ming shades is obtainable in chiffon weight and has the dull luster of silk and-wOOl fabrics that is always becom- ing This silk cashmere is one of the ideal materials for the evening wrap of draped design, and is light enough to be used as head covering without dis arranging the coiffure.
 The Arabian cape, festoOned like the Arab s bournoOse, is very handsome if carefully adjusted, with here and there a heavy silk tassel by way of fasten- ing or decoration. The long satin-clOth scarf bOrdered with marabou or swans down is also sufficiently ample to wrap the weaTer from head to knee. The evening wrap to match this costume is still another novelty, but rather costly, if woman wishes to have a wrap with every gown.
 Delightfully."- simple frOeks are shown in most of the good shops, made of the fine thin woOls, such as cashmere, hen rietta and crepe de chine, or very light weight cloth. They are more often than not of one of the browns or grays, and may be worn at home or out in the af- ternoOn under one of the smart over coats of wool with fur collar or all fur In fact, they are probably designed more especially for the latter purpose. They are more often short than long, but sometimes they have a short train. A very pretty little frock, seen in one of the shops the other day, was of gray cashmere with a tunic skirt opened in front, one side crossing over the other The bodice, which had front piece dipping down in round point over the skirt and girdle, had slight orna- mentation of grey soutache which ex- tended to the girdle and cuff, and there were smart looking buttons and loops on the shoulders The under sleeves and guimpe were of gray net embroid- cred with silk.
 A particularly neat Russian blouse model in brown henrietta had satin girdle and fiat satin collar. For the rest the trimming was wide band of the tucked material around the bottom of the blouse skirt and the short sleeves s...I l.