Evening journal., 1909-06-04

- HE choosing and making of a
sleeve perhaps present greater
dificulties to the home Dress
maker than does any other
part of the garment Very often the
blouse or gown turned out by the
amateur is spoiled by the sleeve on ac-
count of its unsuitability to the rest OF
the garment in question or because it
is not well made. The perfect sleeve
is by no means easy to contribute. but
II you are fortunate enough to hit
upon an attractive design and procure
a paper pattern of the same the rest
is plain sailing. The only trouble is that
in these days of quick changing odes
the fashion makers no sooner launch a
style than they evidently think it over
and wonder IL they hadn't letter
change their minds after all. OF course
the sleeves are long now-everybody
knows that-but are they going to stay
long7 That's the question. And one
wonders whether tits better to suffer
the uncomfortableness of tAe long
manche all summer or to take arms
no pun misunderstanding this sea of
trouble and by opposing againrt 1t the
three-quarter sleeve end II. The
French modistes are saying to them
selves that long sleeves are monoto-
nous. Just as II they hadn't thought of
1t before. So they are already talking
of a compromise. A three-quarter
/ sleeve with a dainty little undersleeve
of tucked net or batiste going the rest
/ of the way to the wrist is what they
are talking about now. The idea is
not bad one, and such a sleeve is so
much cooler and more seasonable for
warm weather. Speaking Of Paris, the
IL. L. .a14r lrarftf p
rumors at this minute that twelve yard
skirts, panniers and sleeves held out
with stiff interlining that are little
short of cages are at the door await
ing an opportunity TO display them
selves. II they are there it will only
take a pleasant race day to disclose
them. But here in America we will
not feel their influence. If at all, until
late in the summer or in the fall. To
return to the sleeve of the present,
when undecided as to what shape the
sleeve shall be in a light summer frock
choose the small leg of mutton II the
material is very sheer the little full
ness this model displays at the top is
not only agreeable, but positively a
charity when the shoulders of the
wearer are contracted and the arms OF
the proverbial broomstick build.
For the shirt waist the small bishop
is always a safe selection. and 1t may
be either long or three quarter length.
All over embroidery sleeves should be
, cut with one seam. The button and
loops give the tight fit at the wrist and
should be placed on this seam and not
on the outer edge of the arm
BY the way. the girl who Is pos
sessed of a blouse with an old fash
= I4.k aNra "a n
make Il quite fashionable by gathering
It at the elbow and adding a tight up
per sleeve of material to match her
skirt, that reaches almost to the ell
bow, the fabric being cut so that the
outer part of the arm is covered. and
Just above the elbow II is cut on the
inside to give the appearance Of a
, buckle. II a band of the same material
is prettily fitted into girdle with this
alteration to the sleeve and the addi-
ton of bretelles to the blouse the ANA
! teur may turn an unsmart blouse and
skirt into an up TO date complete
. frock. The idea OF the bretelle. some
reader may say, smaclxs Of the styles
e of last summer, but can assure this
9 slxepticaI seamstress that some of the
] best frocks Of the season are made In
8 this cooperative fashion. and with
q coats to match one gets the erect OF
e an up to date jumper dress. The ad-
? vantage Of such a costume Is that
when is too warm and finds even the
a bretelles a burden they can be pealeo
e of, and an attractive belt covers the
Il waistband OF the frock, and with coal
. one has complete suit or without II
q a separate skirt and blouse.
: To continue the sleeve talk a mo-
; ment longer, a charming design for
y sleeve of foulard, sole de chine, or any
q of the soft unwashable materials o.
, the season is made with nine deeT
s. tucks or folds. each one of which Is
caught at the edge by fancy button
u A deep pointed cuff coming well ovei
? the back of the hand forms delight
= full finish. and this. of course, is com
y posed OF lace or embroidery to cor
y respond with the trimming on the res
Of the dress.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
New York