davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1909-09-09

PUBLISHED EVERY THURSDAY BY
The Republican Journal Publishing Go.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18

suiting tho Stout Figure
The so-called shrt-waist costume
shown herewith exemplifes the distinc-
ton that may be impaired to a simple
gown by few comparatively trifling
additions. The shirt-waist has three
tuck plaits laid at the shoulder at both
front and back, but, instead of finishing
with plain collar or stock, the neck is
cut into V at the front and small
chemisette of lace or tucked lawn fills
in the opening. A. turnover collar to
which is applied fancy band-trimning
edges the neck of the waist, and the
same trimming outlines the front edges,
forming vest effect that is always be-
coming to figure that is at all inclined
to stoutness.
In the same way length is given to
the front of the skirt by the triple
plated panel that is judiciously fattened
at the top by having the centre panel
overlap the two added p1aits. A similar
neck effect may be introduced into any
shirt-waist, and any plain skirt may have
the long front lines suggested by making
lap seams where the front breadth joins
the sides, or by trimming these seams
with braid or folds of the same cloth.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18

curving side-bodies at the back. The
curved, cut-away line at the lower front
edge is another desirable feature. as it
avoids cutting the figure by straight
line across the front.
The woman who has made study of
the good and bad points of her figure
knows all these little wrinkles" be-
cause she has made it point to get the
very best possible effects in each of her
gowns, and it is just these small details
that make the difference between the
smart and the dowdy figure. The coat
shown we'll illustrates the several fea-
lures that are most desirable in this
garment.
The skirt with it is plain, five-gored
skirt, but is given certain Importance
by the applied top facing around the bot
tom, the upper edge of the facing being
cut in a shaped outline, forming tab
that laps upward at each seam. The
skirt seams and the long French seams
at the front and back Of the coat will
look well if finished with lap seams, and
be certain that the seams in both gar
ments are Tapped in the same direction.
In selecting material for such gown,
it is well to bear in mind that rough
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18
Becoming Styles for Middle Age Suiting
the Peculiarihes Of the Stout Figure
Tho Importance Of the w.ist.Line

Tho Importance Of the waist.Lins
The waist-line is important to any fig
ure, but most particularly when the
waist has passed the 26-inch mark great
care and discretion must, be used The
exaggerated dip" at the front is to be
avoided and never, never have dip at
the back. A trim, straight line across
the centre-back, gradually dropping at
the sides until at the centre-front it is
about two inches below the natural,
Straightforward waist-lne, is smart and
becoming
The exaggerated dip that brings the
front of the belt far down on the
abdomen, may look fairly we'll at the
front view, but from the side it is quite
ugly, and the side-line that should fit in
prettily to the curve of the waist is the
critical view. The heightened front
effect may be much more artistically
provided by trimming lines.
For an outdoor costume long coat
that outlines the figure gracefully, but
is semi-fltting-not tights the proper
garment to select The actual length
must be determined by ones height and
by experiment at the time of fitting, but
it should come we'll down over the hips
and the French cut with the seams run
ming to the shoulder at both front and
back is better than the darted front with
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18
The American Girl in Grand Opera Her
Native Abilities Great, But She Must
Learn Patience
By Madame JOHANNAgGADsKI
lame JOHANNAsGADSKI
metropolitan Opera House. New York

IN the years that / have been living
and singing in America / have be-
tome very much interested in the Amer
lean girl and in her life, which, as you
must know, is very different from that
Of the young girls of Germany. For
America, of course, gives liberty and
opportunity for development of all kinds
that girls do not have in Europe. And
as the mother of girl, who is growing
UP and receiving her education in your
country as we'll as in mine, I have per-
haps, thought about the matter more
seriously than woman who is not A
mother.
Especially have I had opportunity to
know the girl with voice and in r1any
eases to know also the home conditions
chat surround her Like other singers
before the public, | receive all the time
requests to try voices and often to as
sist young singers. Yet | find it is
seldom that the truth is appreciated
when it is unfavorable either as to the
voice or the singers method of using it
It is sad, of course, when a girl who
owes music has not the voice to express
what she appreciates, and the truth is
not ALWAYS easy to tell. But there is
only one way to start right, and that is
/, 70 find out the truth at once and ac
eept it.
But how many girls are willing to
consider filling second or third place
N the singing world? All must dream
ot becoming, some day, Brinhilde or
Notwithstanding upon the character of
the voice. Yet a great voice, after all.
IS an accident, piece of good fortune
which is no more to its possessor's
:redit than the inheritance of great
wealth. 1t is the use she makes Of her
Eift that is the singers part.
roice Not Everything
The question is if she has the mind of
! musician, the intelligence, the courage,
the persistence and self-sacrifce to
make OF herself great artist. And one
thing am convinced of: the result de-
ponds more upon the pupil than upon
the teacher. It is true that voices have
been ruined by incorrect methods but |
believe that great deal more than half
depends upon the pupil.
It seems to me that the American
girl has much to help and little to hinder
her IN her chosen work or art. The
american girl has great ability to do
the thing she starts out in life to do.
and l think that almost all the girls in
America want to do something. A girl
may not need to support herself, She
may not ever! have great talent, yet she
Will often desire to do some work
rather than to remain in her home.
Useless Sacrifices for Ambition
There is much to admire in this i'm
pulse to work, but also there is a side
to it that seems to me sad. mean the
20 often useless sacrifices made by fam
lies, sometimes even by the husband of
the young woman with voice, to paw
for its education and training. Is it not
better that the girl with a sweet, but
not extraordinary, voice should study
enough SO that she may sing in her
home and for her friends, rather than
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18

the artist who would one day sing Brin-
hide or Isolde. What do you think
when tell you that the year of my
first engagement at the Berlin opera
house in my seventeenth year / learned
twenty-four roles in four months? If
the girl with voice can be made to
face the truth about the life of an opera
singer and begin her preparation with
her eyes open, there will be fewer sad
failures and less unhappiness along the
steep road she must travel in order to
reach the top, and along which SO MANY
fall by the way.
The life of an opera singer is one
which contains much beauty and hap
piness, yet it is also life of many
difficulties and uncertainties, and first
and last of hard work The singer who
would enjoy all that her art can give
her must be prepared to endure much
unavoidable injustice She must bear
cheerfully conditions which misrepre-
sent her, and she must not let any of
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18
Needlework for Household Decoration
BY THE USE OF THE NEW BRAIDs
Beautiful Lace Easily Made

IN the matter of dress trimmings fash
ion must sometimes plead guilty to
the charge of fickleness, but the accusa-
lion scarcely applies to the laces that are
used for household decoration. There
are certain novelties introduced from
time to time, yet none of them is strong
enough to disturb, seriously, the favor Of
the Renaissance laces.
Just this much of innovation has af-
fected the latter, and that is the use of
the -fllet or square mesh for filling in
large spaces, change that produces
greater variety and more striking eff
feet. This square mesh is very plainly
shown in the table-cover, the first illus
tration.
The open spaces in the scrolls are filled
in with bars Romano and the centre of
the seven-pointed fower-lke figure with
straight lines crossing at right angles,
the thread twisted in working back, and
a small wheel or spider worked at each
intersection. Bars Romano are worked
IN the same manner as point DIES Alpes,
second line of the stitches being made
across the space at right angles to the'
first.
Working Bars Romano
To work it, fasten the thread at
pne edge of the braid in the space to be
hlled and carry it across. to the opposite
side, where it should be secured to the
braid with buttonhole stitch; make
second buttonhole stitch in the braid at
the space of about twice the thickness of
the thread from the first, and start to
carry this second thread back to the
starting side. About one-quarter of an
inch from the braid make, with the sec
ond thread, a buttonhole stitch on the
first line of thread, making it loose
enough to allow two other buttonhole
stitches to be made across its loop.
Make these buttonhole groups at spaces
of about one-half inch across the first
line of thread. Work across the space
IN this manner, having each double line
of threads about one-ha1f inch distant
from the next. Work another row of
the bars across the space at right angles
to the first, making the buttonioie
groups come midway of the space be-
tween the rows of the first lines of point
DIES AlDes. and securing the second row
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18

bands cards for each lady and for the
man of the household Yet, here is
another point: it is not considered in
good taste to leave more than three OF
ones cards at house, even where there
is large family. For instance, you
might be calling on Mrs. B, who has
two grown daughters. Her mother lives
with her. Three of your cards would
include them all, and three of your hus-
bands cards would be plenty. As a
general rule, married mans card is not
left for young girl"
How soon is call due after an in
vitation?"
Within a week after a dinner, a
luncheon, card party, home wedding,
or any evening party. 1t is obligatory to
call whether one accepted or not"
"Is it right to call after a tea or
reception?" inquired Mrs. Howe.
reception, because your call is made
when going to the tea. A hostess sends
cards tovotify her friends when she will
be at home. They may go or not as
they please. If they go they leave cards.
II they cannot go they send cards by
post on the day of the tea, and their
duty is done"
At that moment pretty Rosamond
came in from walk. Seeing her mothers
friend she fastened forward.
"Oh, Mrs. Howe, I am so glad to see
you" she said, as they shook hands.
Instead of chattering about herself the
girl sat near her mother and showed by
her courteous manner that she was in
terested in their guest.
Presently Mrs. Howe rose to go while
saying to her hostess, This friendly tall;
has given me new energy and courage,
am determined to try to surmount all
difficulties in the social world"
Mrs. Wright and Rosampnd rose and
shook hands with their guest, and Mrs.
Wright accompanied her to the door,
saying, Come to me as often as you
wish with problems"
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18

thread. Seeding stitch may be en-
ployed to fill in these spaces, but the
simulated drawn-work, with its open
effect, is more novel and attractive. 1t
is very simply done, as it is not neces-
sary to draw the threads unless the ma
terial is very closely woven and very
open, hlmy effect is desired
In that case. the outline of the bios
som is first worked in satin-stitch, pad
ding the outline first with several layers
of running stitch, laid one over the
other, then working over the padding
with satin-stitch. The threads must
then be counted, and those that are to be
drawn out cut close to the embroidered
outline. While this is particular work,
needing to be done carefully, an error is
not irretrievable; should the wrong
thread be drawn, it may be run in again
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18

consider that the latter stage requires a
certain amount of dignity in costume
this does not mean that one must dress
odd" but there should be an importance
to the. design and trimmings that is not
essential for youth.
a young girl may wear an absolutely
plain shirt-waist, for instance. with
turned-down collar and turned back
cuffs, but for the woman of forty, or
over. this garment would be entirely rn-
suitable, Even the plain plated shirt
waist with standing linen collar, that
looks trim and smart on younger
woman, seems in some way out of keep
ing with the dignity impaired by added
years.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18

How should let my friends know
that ! have come back to town to live ~
asked Mrs. Howe.
You should call on all friends and
former visiting acquaintance and leave
your cards with your new address. In
large cities where distances are great
and visiting is not easy, many persons
simplify matters by having tea or a
series of teas and sending out cards to
that effect. This shows ones friends
that one remembers them and wishes to
see them, and they generally respond by
calling on one Of the days; but after a
prolonged absence It would seem more
quaintances, even though you send out
cards later for some special event
Everyone should try to make at least
one call during the year on friends and
acquaintance"
Before forget it please explain what
is meant by leaving cards?"
Leaving Cards
Remember always that a card is re-
minder OF your call and your address
One leaves a, card whether the hostess
is at home or not You may leave a
card on the hall table when entering the
house or when going away You may
lay card down unobtrusively on any
convenient table. If you are told at the
front door that Mrs. B is not at home,
you may leave your card with the person
who opens the door, OF course, one
must never under any circumstances give
ones card to the person on whom one is
calling"
"About my husbands cards-what is
the custom" asked Mrs. Howe.
a man is not supposed to have ieis-
ure for making calls. His wife leaves
his cards with her own when making a
first call of the season and when calling
in acknowledgment of invitations. The
general rule to remember is that a
woman leaves one of her cards for each
lady in a family. and one Of her hus-
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18

ings are used for the principal filling-in
stitches for the centrepiece, for which
English lace braid was used, and the
same stitch is used in the last centre
piece illustrated. This is rather more
ornate than any of the others, as the
rose in each of the flower groups worked
in the linen centre is filled in with
drawn work.
The rose outline is worked in satin
stitch and the plain linen so enclosed
is punctured at regular spaces with
a carpet needle or the point
of a. stiletto, and the groups of threads
thus separated are gathered together
by oYercasting with a needle and fine
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18
The Etiquette Of Cards
RULES GOVERNING THE USE
OF VISITING CARDS
When, Where, For Whom to
Leave Them

:" A SIX me anything you like" said
Mrs. Wright cordially to friend
who had been puzzled over some points
of etiquette.
You are very good to help me- said
Mrs. Howe. "After living out Of town
for some time as / have done one gets
out of touch with many things"
In town or out of town there are al
ways certain accounts to be kept with
society" answered Mrs. Wright. "In
smaller towns and country neighbor-
hoods the same general duties should be
done. | don't mean to call them duties
only. They should be pleasures"
But with my children to think of,
have neglected social duties or pleas
ures," pleaded Mrs. Howe.
That is natural and frequent ex-
cuse," said her friend, 'but it is not al
together fair to your husband or your
self to neglect society, and not fair to
seem indifferent to your friends. Then
you must remember that you have two
girls. They should give you new in
terest in social life"
But they are children !" exclaimed
the young mother in surprise.
~AooP Ah &ouCu AoI tu0 SullUr6u
They will not always be children
They will be grown up before you real
ize it. While they are growing up you
must not drift away from social inter
ests or customs. You must stay bright
and young for the sake of your husband
children, friends and society in general
You are right. am going to try to
follow your example" said Mrs. Howe,
gayly. Then she added, eff my girls
have as good manners when they grow
up as your Rosamond, shall be happy
Il did not intend to draw down so
much fattery on my head or on Rosa
mond's," said Mrs. Wright, laughing
Then she continued confdingly: Rosa
mond's coming out this winter,has been
JOY instead of task, because / have
tried always to keep in touch with So
ciety and its ways. A girls coming out
brings up all sorts of matters for dis
cnssion, and one needs to be prepared
with information"
Il see that you are having a very
busy winter" said Mrs. Howe.
Eyes, busy and delightful winter
and now that you tell me you want my
suggestions | shall have another pleas
ure. Is there not something you want
to discuss?"
Eyes; it seems to me that one of the
most important things is the etiquette
of cards. 1t is strange that bit of
pasteboard means so much, isn't it,"
The Importance Of Cards
Not when you think that cards help
to unite society. We could never pay
off our social debts, or even remind
people Of our existence, without these
useful little bits of pasteboafd. Cards
are very often, too, the expressions of
kindness, sympathy or congratulation
After all, there is common sense rea-
son about the use of visiting cards, as
in most social matters. Leaving cards
is a step toward renewing friendships,
forming or charging ones circle Of
friends. If one does not follow the pre-
scribed rules it is a sure step in the
wrong direction"
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18

threads, crossing the drawn space to
the opposite group, where a buttonhole
stitch is taken around that group, the
working thread is twisted back to the
centre, then crossed to the remaining
sides of the opening, where a buttonhole
stitch is made around each group of
threads. Seeding stitch is succession
of tiny back-stitches made on the right
side of the material. They must be
even and regular in size and the stitches
of every row are made to come midway
between those in the preceding row.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18

by threading it into a fine needle and
darning over and under the cross
threads.
After the desired number of threads
have been drawn in both directions,
the bars remaining are overhanded
with fine thread to form regular and
even network, or several of the simpler
stitches used in drawn-work are suitable
for this purpose when the space to be
filled in is large.
For small spaces the plain mesh or
another simple stitch also used in this
centrepiece may be employed. The lat
ter stitch is made by taking one stitch
around the centre of one group of
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18

to leave her home and enter upon an
expensive course of training upon the
chance of obtaining some day a posi-
ton to sing small roles in some small
opera house? And if the family Of such
a girl must make great sacrifices in
order to make the training and the trip
abroad possible, is it worth the cost?
But suppose the girl has an extraor-
binary voice-and l have found many
such in America-then it seems to me
that the greatest drawback to her real
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18

chiffon broadcloth, henrietta or cash
mere.
The Importance Of Colors
In considering color, gray always
comes first to mind, but there is almost
as much room for selection amongst the
various shades of gray as if they were
different colors. Then, too, the individ-
ual complexion and coloring must be
considered. The theory of matching the
general tinting is safe to follow.
The colorless face may not be framed
TO advantage with the tints that favor
the pink and white skin; for the latter
there is gray with a pinkish tingc tina,
IS very suitable, and the dark orchid
shades through which the same pinkish
timing runs, but not light enough to be
Iiconspicuous, will be good for the street
costume.
Plain black, though not mourning, Sc
often adopted for almost constant wear
by the .middle-aged, is really quite try.
ing, unless well relieved about the necl
and throat by white, Take lesson
from the changing hair and make the
black and white proportions practically
correspond. Do not be afraid of few
touches OF delicate color, few fancy
stitches in embroidery silk outlining an
IFSh6S, oPidcI Wed WORKED IN SILK on
the .cloth-covering of button molds--feN
realize by what simple means Original
and distinctive gowning may often BE-
attained
Good Fit Not Tight Ell
| There is one thing the woman of we'll.
developed figure should bear in mind
and that is that good fit is not r,eces.
ssarily a tight fit-rather the reverse. il
tact. A well-cut, SPLITTING garment
with symmetrical lines, is more graceful
and becoming and less inclined to at.
tract attention to ones size than thu
waist or coat that is noticeably tight.
In skirts, too, a figure with full hip.
will look UNNECESSARILY better when
there is a good swing at the sides, from
the hips to the lower edge. Only al
the centre-front should the skirt hang
perfectly straight and fat. When It i:
drawn back too much from the sides the
effect upon the figure is not at all good
m 6A.z
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-05-18

success lies in her mistaken desire to do
the. thing too quickly, to make what you
call the Short cut" 1t is true that in
Germany there has been tendency
more in the past than at present-to
hold back for too long time the young
singer. Yet the routine and discipline
OF foreign opera house, with the op-
portunity it gives of acquiring roper
toire, seems to me essential.
Development Must be Slow
Only in that way can be gained the
finish, the technique, indispensable to