The daily sentinel., 1909-02-27
LBy catherine Mann-Payzant.

WlldeTluS anu 80 NdTleu IndL IL lb
no wonder that women assert that
what, and once to buy.
Nevertheless there are some fab
ries that especially attract attention.
One of these is the new pongee
weaves. Under this name come the
heavy Standings SO suitable to tall
ored effects and ranging from this
weight are the various lighter ones
down to the new Salome pongee,
very beautiful chiffon-like material
suitable for the dressiest effects.
If you should be offered a China
silk line, do not be mistaken in sup
posing this goods is a mixture of lin
en- and silk, for it is pure silk fab
ric which has received a great pro-
portion of its weight from the dyeing
process through a chemical change.
The finish resembles linen. hence its
name.
It comes in beautiful colorings and
is promised a large and popular fol-
lowing this season.
La Tosca silk, while not exactly
new, is new in its designs and fine
ness of weave. For a reception or
evening gown il is one of the best
1t would make up very hand
in the new directoire modes
of the coming spring.
Foulards that are rain-proof are
promised for those who like this old
favorite. whose only disadvantage Is
its tendency to spot whenever the
least bit of dampness touches 1t. They
are a strong favorite by reason of the
special adaptability of this fabric to
the long sweeping lines and soft
clinging effects demanded by the
present modes. This springs fou-
lards are offered in new and original
designs as well as in the more con-
servative patterns-in smaller fig
ures and polka dots. Foulard is
material not too elaborate in itself
and yet one that can be made as
dressy as you please for receptions
and dress occasions that come before
& o'clock.
One of the most popular fabrics for
the tailored frock is Ottoman, and
Ottoman Royal, something CT the ma
ture OF mohair with the rib. will be
worn in many a dressy street cos
tune. 1t is cool, a good dust-shed-
der and does not easily wrinkle. A
gown of this material in one of the
new grays, with gloves and hat to
match, would be a good Investment
for the Easter costume.
The new ehallis are very desirable
fabrics and are to be found in most
excellent designs, and during the
spring are most suitable for house
gowns, negligees and pretty frocks
for the school girl.
Taffeta. because of certain I'M
proyements in texture, suppleness
and satin luster is likely to have
revival that will push the satins to
the wall. One of its best qualities Is
that of being reversible, which al
ways means an economy In the
amount of material needed. IL is
one of the best materials for the sum-
mer travelling dress and trotteur cos
tune and the dust coat.
The fine serges and SILK cache
miers of silk are some of the early
fabrics to be seen and Will be mueh
worn; in fact, they are rivalfng the
voiles and because of their clinging
properties are better liked for pres
ent styles.
Raiah is an important fabric and
will be seen in coats, one-piece suits,
the coat and skirt suit and as part
Of the compose costume, having
coat of one material and a skirt ana
waist of the second material, put Oh
the exact shade as the coat. The nat
might be of silk to match the coat;
These compose costumes are more ana
more seen as the spring gowns are
brought out.
some of the most fashionable col
ors are pine green, mole gray,
.trraved" catawba. chestnut ana
many grayed (veiledl ruddy shades.
MANY of the brightest colors are
qrayed by excessive braidings or ap-
piioues of lace or embroidery
All the grayed tones are tashlon-
able as they have been during .ns
fail and winter. Greens have faded
gSF q r
n darker and brighter color are to be
seen. Several blues of strange tone
are shown. Certain reddish shades,
some of them pure. others having
white or gray or blue added to their
composition, make most beautitui
color combinations when two or three
different materials are used in the
gown. .ha
The princess model. inspite OF the
directoire influence and the empire
modes. is still with us; but the gown
for. tbe sprfng of 1909 differs in de-
sign from those of last season; the
long lines both back and front are
GIVEN by a panel which goes to the
shoulder In this way much more
satisfactory fit is obtained over the
hins and a prettier fullness is given
the waist. A fitted girdle passes ap-
narently under both panels.
One of the fads of the winter rs
the wearing of black tulle scarf
with an all-white gown. This scarf
Is edged with a band Of cloth OF
gold or cloth silver sewed beneath
the material so that there Is just
CLINT of the gold or silver. Not only
does this scarf give distinguished
note. but adds to the long lines no"
considered so desirable.
An effective model in directoire
stvle was accomplished by a combi-
nation of cloth and heavy ribbed SILK
in cedar green. Wide silk braid Is
corded effect outlined the yoke. the
side slashfngs on the skirt through