davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17

the edges are pasted under. particular
attention being paid to the corners,
where the super1uous material should
be cut away The sides of the box are
covered with one piece of material car
ried all the way around and pasted to-
gether at the back, either in the middle
or at one of the back corners
The next step is to make the hinge
This should be of thin but strong cot
ton material and covered on one side
with the lining and on the outer side
with the cover material 1t should be
about two inches wide and the length
of the box inside. Glue should be used
TO paste the upper half of the strip to
the length of the lid. The lining OF the
lid is then pasted to the outer piece
and a weight is put on to insure a neat
and strong jointure.
The lining pieces may then be pasted
inside the box, with the exception of
the back piece. Before this is pasted
in it is necessary to glue in the lower
part OF the hinge. The lining piece is
then pasted in. To press down the side
pieces of the box and the bottom it may
be turned different ways and a weight
put on each side after IT is pasted in
and left there for long enough time
to press the pieces well together This
should be done by all means with the
hinge side.
These boxes are useful for the Dress
ing table, the writing desk and the
sewing table. The large ones may be
used for shirt waists, and in the same
fashion 1t is possible to make the sets
of boxes which are so much used The
only additional requirement for the
sets OF boxes is the modern stand into
which they are slipped.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17
R0OClAl AMENITIES FOR
I'd DTa THE SCHOOL GlRk

lite "sundaes," and one sees them, too,
in the hotels leaning over the regis
ter in this fashion, but it is, happily
against good manners as was witnessed
the other day, when a pretty girl who
certainly looked as II she should know
better moistened her thumb in her
mouth and then turned the pages of
a hotel register with it!
There is a great deal of time spent in
country hotels these days, for the
autumn season follows the. summer.
and there is the winter as well. Life
in a country hotel is naturally quite
different from that led in the city
hostelries, and 1t has many informal
features. one of them the freedom of
movement in the office, which is usu-
ually a big, attractive place in which
the guests lounge about and spend
rainy mornings. Visitors are naturally
interested in new arrivals, and to daily
inspect the register or the hotel is one
of the forms of amusement INDUCED
in by old and young.
No girl, however, should be seen
alone at the hotel desk unless for a
momentary pause necessary to ask for
information. When she wishes to look
over the register another girl should
accompany her. and their inspection
should be brief It is not good form
to hang over the book or to gossip
together over the names. or to ask
questions of the clerks about new
corners. All intercourse with the clerks
should be OF strictly formal charac-
ter and q Girl denneans hersalf x.hn
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17

a OTORING can be either the most
AN delightful or the most uncom-
Portable of sports. dependent en-
tirely upon whether or not one is suf-
ficiently warmly wrapped up. There is
nothing so delightful as touring
through the days of late autumn, when
the air is crisp and all nature has put
on its most magnificent array, but one
must be well protected against that
early freshness In order to fully ap-
preciate the glory OF the autumn color
ing surrounding one on every side.
Next to ones nose the ears require
to be snugly covered up when rushing
through the wind at the rate of 80 TO
so miles an hour. Ear tabs and wells
of all descriptions have been tried
since the origin OF the automobile
itself. but at last in the introduction
of the motor hood of fur. felt or heavy
flannel has been found real comfort
for motoring in cold weather. This
hood, too, can be most becoming-an
advantage not to be thought lightly
OF when IL is taken into consideration
now very unbecoming is the average
automobile hat. In shape II is much
like the ordinary infants hood. which
fits on closely over the head, held on
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17

~ ETTICOATS are an important de-
tail Of the wardrobe of the college
girl, who rarely has much time to
devote during the term to the repairing
of her belongings. For ordinary wear
in the class rooms and indoors the
most practical petticoats are those
made of fine but weighty bingham or
madras, which comes in plain dark
blue. taupe, brown and green. and
will launder without fading or shrink
ing. For these petticoats the seven
gored skirt pattern may be used, but
cut enough longer to allow for three
wide tucks above a four inch hem,
as tucks are more easily ironed than
are rufles and founces. Striped gala
tea also makes satisfactory petticoat
for ordinary indoor, service. and IL
something little nicer is desired, there
is half silk shantung, which is strong
of texture, does not draw out Of shape
and comes in a variety Of dark shades.
1t may be made up on the seven gored
model, but instead of being laid in
three deep tucks above the hem, should
several narrow bias ruf1es. as shan
tung should not be even thinly starched.
If something heavier than all cotton
or silk and linen is needed for an au
tumn and winter petticoat. striped out
ing flannel of q fine grade may be
used. but it will be necessary to face
the garment from the knees to the
hem with thick linen, as outing fan
mel, like sateen. has an unpleasant
fashion of twisting itself about the
figure and impeding the movements
inexpensive cashmere does not pick
up the dust quickly, and for that rea
SON many college girls prefer it to
flannel as a petticoat material. More
over, it washes as readily as Bingham
and is almost as light of weight. while
adding considerably to the warmth of
the body. Cashmere petticoats, how
ever, will cling to the knees unless
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17

NY girl who has no lavender in the
a drawer with her underclothes is
missing a good deal and will be
wise to set to work Immediately and
make some lavender bags. 1t is the
cleanest, freshest odor that one can
have with clothing or household linen,
and always seems somehow to give the
impression of great daintiness and care
fulness. An especially appropriate use
of these bags is to make them as
gift for an elder sister or friend who is
going to be married. And she can not
have too many of them for her linen
closet and bureau drawers.
There are many shapes and designs
that can be used for them. some quite
simple and others most beautifully en-
broidered Some are made of silk and
some of linen. but the most entirely
satisfactory ones are made Of a thin
plain silk. with an outer case OF white
linen, like an envelope. that can be
removed and washed. These linen cases
will often outlast two or three supplies
of the lavender, and so are well worth
the trouble of some really pretty en-
broidery. They can be made square.
oblong. round or triangular; can be
sewed with a seam around the edge or
the two pieces buttonholed together.
One thing is necessary, that is to have
one side or end open and arranged with
small buttons and buttonholes. or hooks
and eyes, so that the case can be easily
taken from the inner bag when it needs
washing.
girl who wants to make a large
number of these lavender bags can
save trouble and get a very pretty
effect by using handkerchiefs that are
already embroidered. They may be
folded over, with the corners together,
making a square with one corner left
open like the flap of an envelope; or
they may be folded diagonally from one
corner-so the opposite one, making a
triangle The best way TO open this
case is to have it sewed half way up
each side and have a pretty button
at the tCp point.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17
WORK

given an artistic eye and fairly steady
hand the second article should possess
real artistic value
Low circular trays for cards. taller
ones for jardinieres and scrap baskets
are among the artistic things from the
brass craftsman's workshop. and one
girl is just now engaged upon small
table screen 10 keep out the glare Of
the drop light from the eyes The lotus
flower is one OF the most popular mo-
tifs. both for the novice and the seasoned
craft worker. and the poinsettia is sim
ply stunning in any arrangement one
may see fit 10 make use Of it. its long
graceful petals standing out in bold re-
lief in contrast to the finely stippled
background In short. both in design
and decoration there are to be found
on every hand innumerable suggestions
which NAV be most effectively applied
TO the brass piercing. 1t has many
things to recommend il to the girl
blessed with manual dexterity and ar
tistic taste.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17
Petticoats for OrdindryUedr

they are lined about the bottom with
some smooth faced fabric Ike India
silk
For long tramps in rough weather the
college girl who does not wear dark
flannel or serge InickerbOckers or
bloomers has e short plain petticoat Of
some heavy worsted material attached
to a deep, glove fitting silk yoke. or
she wears a jersey cloth skirt with
wide, shaped folfnce OF dark colored
wool, satin or cashmere
In addition to the college girls col
lection OF practical and sanitary petit
coats she has at least two Of the tall
ored type made from new silk or from
the remnants Of last seasons gowns
While all of the soft, firmly textured
silks are used for petticoats. taffeta
is preferred and the multigored shape
which fits the hips closely and flares
about the feet broadly, is still the
popular model But great diversity Is
seen in the flounces which finish these
tailored petticoats.
They are from eight inches to half
yard wide. have I'VE or more deep tucks
edged with narrow ribbon. panels with
two rows OF double pin tucks. forming
Van Dycks. set between accordion
pleated fans or perpendicularly tucked
through the center to form deep vs.
and finished at the lower edge with
several tiny rufaes.
There are petticoats Of plain silk, car
rying striped rufies or a founce, and
striped silk made up with perpendicu-
IarIy lined cores and with founees
showing unique arrangements in dag
onal and Van Dyck effects Dresden and
plaided silks lend themselves readily to
the development OF novel ideas, and
like the plain tanetas, are frequently
ribbon trimmed Narrow ribbon is in
terlaced between panel effects and ter
minated with a bow: IL outlines square
panels and borders or IT - ruched and
arranged in wreath design at the up
per and lower edges OF Spanish hounces.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17
Covering Boxes LDith Chintz

r o make the covered boxes which
are now so popular with girls it
is necessary TO have for a foun-
dalton a good cardboard box of the
size you want Candy boxes do very
well for the smaller sizes. and for
larger sizes dressmakers' boxes are
useful 1t is necessary to use good
glue and photographers paste in max
ing the box.
The material for covering the box
both outside and inside may be any
thing that is desired Chintz, Powered
or striped; brocade, dull, heavy silk
and plain linen are among the fabrics
used for the outside of the box, while
for the inside there is ususally more
fragile material, thin silk or satin or
fine colored lawn or batiste White
cardboard and white MORE paper are
also necessary.
The side pieces are torn away from
the lid. Pieces Of cardboard are cut
to ht the top Of the lid. the bottom of
the box and its four sides. Lining ma
terial is then cut to fit these pieces.
There is half an inch left all around
for turning under the lining. Each
piece Of cardboard is covered with the
lining material, which is pasted on the
edges with photographers paste. At
the corners the material is cut away
so that there are no thick places. If
the lining is very thin it is wise to put
In an interlining of cheesecloth. Cot
ton padding, If desired, may be used
for the interlining. with sachet powder
II the box is for gloves or handker-
chiefs.
After the lining nieces have all been
covered cover the outside of the box.
The lid is covered with one piece and
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17

M OST young girls are naturally so
VI charming in their movements. hav-
ing the unconscious and unstudied
grace. which characterizes youth, that
it seems great pity when any one of
them does things which are awkward
and make them, for the moment at
least, unattractive.
When girl Tits either forward or
backward in the chair in which she as
sitting she is doing not only an i'm
proper but an ungainly thing. AT
smart dress makers the other day an
older woman and her daughter were
giving winter orders, and all the while
the girl sat there inspecting fascinat-
ing fabrics she fidgeted on the edge
of her chair, which she kept tilted on
one leg. thereby throwing her body
into hideous position and imperiling
her safety. not to mention risking
breaking the chair. A great. deal of
this chair fitting goes on in public
places, TO the detriment of the girls
who indulge in 1T, for 1t is not pretty
trick, and in consequence offers an
opening for unpleasant criticism
Another awkward and most undesir-
able habit is that of standing on one
foot. one side of the body poised and
the other slouching. No girl looks
well in such posture. and she fur
Their emphasizes awkwardness when.
standing at a counter in this onesided
fashion. she leans her elbows or one ell
bow on the stand in front of her. Some
girls always strike this attitude at the
counters in the shops or in the drug
stores when partaking of their favor
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17

firmly by ribbon strings fastened in
a large bow knot under the chin. In
white fur or canton flannel. adorned
with rosettes of bright coIored ribbon.
these new motor hoods are quite fas-
cinating. while in the darker shades
the hoods are also seen and are
equally attractive and, of course, more
practical
If a brim is preferred to protect the
eyes somewhat from both glare and
wind. then poke bonnet is excellent
Any felt hat with a large crown and a
fiat brim can be converted into a motor
bonnet by simply cutting on the back
OF the brim to within about three
inches of the crown and fastening
about the crown a piece of ribbon.
which is brought down on each side
over the edge of the hat and tied under
the chin. One or two rosettes can
be arranged TO take away any over
severity. In buying the shape care
must be taken to find a crown that is
OF correct size TO At down firmly on the
head. for If the crown is too small the
hat can never be made to act as a bon
net
Squirrel cOonskfn. muskrat and also
the more costly furs are all good for
motor hoods, and from an old mud or
stole that Is too shabby for further
use. wonderfully pretty automobiio
hoods can be cOncoctad
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17

forgets this and chatters with them
Familiarity.
On arriving at hotel it may some
times happen that your mother or older
companions asks you to register the
names for her, in which case she sends
the maid or some other member of your
party with you to the desk. The proper
thing for you to do is to enter the
name and residential city of each mem
Der of your party, giving a separate
line to each as the register indicates,
and putting the older members of the
party first. If you and your mother are
together, travelling with a maid, regis
ter Mrs. Blank Blank and maid.
Blankville,' and underneath your name,
which. as you are probably not out In
society. you should not write Miss
Blank" but Miss Marjorie Blank" and
then underneath Blankville put the
ditto marks to indicate that you are
from the same place.
If there are several of you in the
family each members name must be
written. It is not good form to put
yourself down as Mrs Blank and
family which is as incorrect usage as
to register Mr.. Blank Blank and wife,
The proper form is Mr.. and Mrs. Blank
Blank" and where there are several
children each name must be given.
even of the little tots, and no name
should be written without the formal
prefix of Miss or Master. When there
is baby and a nurse the baby gets her
own line, as Miss Blankie Blank and
nurse" or Master Walter Blank and
nurse" as the case may be. II you
have a chauffeur to register you do
not put down his name; but after you
have written the rest of the party you
write beneath in the middle of the
next line, land chauffeur" Though q
paid mental a chauffeur is not in the
same class with maid. nurse or valet,
and 1t is the custom among those who
properly observe social laws to give
him lis~ - the hotel register to him.
Al
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17

the brass worker would do it with a
mallet, simply fattening the edges
over the block, hammering one down
over the other.
If the sides are to be riveted to-
gether holes are first punched on the
margins. the rivet inserted and upset"
by hammer. One or the other of these
methods is employed in constructing
all articles done in brass. There are
no special rules governing the size OF
a candle shade, but safe and suitable
dimensions for a lamp shade are, say,
16 inches across the bottom, inches
across the top and 10 inches deep.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17
P | Z R c | N G
Both Useful and Ornamental Occupation

standard or shade. though this is rather
more ambitious for the novice than Is
wise to attempt at first.
In the line of simple articles which
beginner can make is one of the dainty
circular photograph frames suitable for
a cabinet picture cut down to suit the
opening. A design of grapes and leaves
is exceedingly effective and very sim
pie to do, the holiness Of the motif
making up for any deficiency in work
manship Only the same amount of care
that any girl might expend on piece
of embroidery is necessary to achieve
success in brass piercing. and there Is
no reason why a girl who can do one
may not do the other. 1t is not to be
expected that the first piece of work
will be altogether satisfactory. but
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17

any OAu5 SSCACs
DARTY bags have lost no whit Of
their vogue, and they are OF an in
finite variety OF shapes. although
silk and satin continue TO be the favor
lite materials employed for their devel-
opment A capacious bag, which may
be made from two yards of sash rib
bon. has square bottom formed By
drawing the two lower corners toward
the center and staying it over square
of cardboard. Another bag has square
bottom. to which is attached four up
right sections, each one carrying a fat
pocket upon it's outer side. The top
Of each upper section is cut out in petal
shape and faced with pink satin so
that when the draw strings are taut
the upper LorttOn OF the bag resembles
a wild rose Of huge proportions.
or richly brocaded silk are particu-
Iarly stunning party bags mounted
The upper edge Of the silk strips is
shirred over the two pieces Of the ring.
which curve downward, and at their
joining ends is attached the handle
OF satin shirred over heavy cord.
Satin edged and very wide lowered
sashing is made into a fat party bag
by folding the ribbon TO form two
squares, overcasting them together
across one end and half way across
each side, then turning backward the
other two halves and forming them
into capaciOus oblong pockets by join
ing their edges to the sides OF the bag
The long satin ribbons attached to the
two upper corners form the handles.
A yard of medium with silk cut
into two strips OF 81 and Is inches is
used to make a bag which may be
opened at both ends. After joining
the widths at the sides the even upper
ends are turned backward for a dis
lance Of three inches and shirred for
twin silk draw strings. The ribbon
bound edge of the longer strip Is then
Tapped over the shorter one and fast
ened to 1t with fancy buttons. BY this
arrangement the contents OF the bag
may readily be taken from II and with
out risk Of being crumpled
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17

If, for example, a candle shade is to
be made, the first thing is to decide on
the number of panels, whether four,
five or six A four paneled shade is
very pretty whether for lamp or can
die, giving a greater chance for va
riety. both of design and shape. Each
panel must have the pattern applied,
and a very good way for such a small
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17

once the design has been traced.
Some brass workers rub the surface
OF the metal with beeswax to facilitate
their progress. Turpentine is another
medium utilized for the same purpose.
After the background has been stippled
and the parts are ready for assembling
comes another important detail, the
locking of the seams. This may be
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17

4 DAINTY, pretty way to finish either
~ a lamp or candle shade is with the
gold fringe that is inexpensive and
can be bought at any department store.
No handsomer lighting outfit could be
suggested than the equipment of some
rare vase or bowl with a pierced brass
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-10-17

livery WORKER in the craft speaks
with the greatest enthusiasm OF
l. the fascination Of the work. and
il is only necessary 10 watch = novice
bending over her bench to believe this
to be true 1t is pretty work, clean
and with absolutely no disadvantageous
features. A girl can go to work with
her mallet and awl with a fresh shirt
waist just as well as though enveloped
in an ugly work apron, with no fear
Of being unpresentable should a visitor
arrive.
Nothing is prettier to start on than
one of the many pretty designs in can
die shades. A hostess can never have
too many Of these artistic things, and
they are always in demand for gifts.
for birthday, holiday or wedding pres
ents. AS the surface TO be covered is
small the design must necessarily be
simple. This obviously is an advan-
tage 10 the novice. The shaping. too,
Is an easier process.
In choosing the sheet brass on which
TO trace the design the worker will
get the most satisfactory results by
selecting that which has a red or rudy
tint II viii be found to be softer.
with less likelihood Of cracking than
the medium tone. Select that having a
thickness Of from p to IS standard
wire gauge or from 6, to 10 metal
gauge.
After having procured z work bench
that viii not rock or vibrate see that
ones chair is the right height, so that
it viii be level with the middle OF the
chest Some workers in brass prefer
standing at their work, and il is al
ways well TO make change in posi-
ton occasionally TO prevent firing the
muscles. The light should be directly
on the work, as when the bench is
facing the window II this Is not pos
Eible let it fall over the right shoulder.
Now that the question Of bench and
position is settled. the next thing in
line is the transferring OF the designs