The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1909-10-30

the Sn0ps uiSpia1 a tfuiJ eonot'A"i
arrax OF gowns and costumes for ev-
ery occasion. Although freakish
and bizarre effects are not altogether
lacking. Il may be stated truthfnlly
and with a feeling OF satisfaction
that as a general rule the exhibited
models, even those intended for gala
occasions. combine richness with
conservative good taste. Particular
" striking is the unusual number OF
models intended for afternoon wear.
Formerly costumes for afternoon
wear closely resembled those intend
ed for morning use. They were
rather plain and OF tailored effect.
Present fashion, however, demands
for afternoon wear much more elab-
orate costumes. In fact. many OF
the afternoon costumes shown In the
shops are so rich and profusely or
namented that they might be used
for all but the smartest evening func-
lions.
Street suits Of the two piece va
riety Invariably show the long coat
over 4 skirt in comfortable walking
length. and these long. well cut
coats over a short skirt have a style
and grace never achieved by me
limp. trailing skirts and Tapping
coat tails Of the directoire mode.
Colors are also more pleasing TO the
refined taste this winter Only on
afternoon costumes OF the more dres-
sv sort are the perishable lavender
and berry shades seen. Good hon
est dark grays. a deep, strong green,
navy blue and rich marine blue are
the fav0rites for street suits, and
these colors are seen in heavy mate
rials Ike chesiots. wide vale serges
and diagonals and coarsely woven
hOmespuns.
The long coats worn with these
costumes are quite plain In style, the
trimming consisting only of fiat
braidings and very large buttons ef-
fectiyely placed Tae princess top
coats are also TO be found In large
variety and they have the advantage
that they may be worn in all sorts
of weather over the daintiest frocks.
For winter wear many Of these top
coats are provided with big fur col.
lars. With these coats go muffs,
matching the fur OF the collar.
afternoon tailored wear for very
formal occasions is exceedingly elab-
oratp In style, In contrast 10 the
mannishly simple styles for street
use. Palest colors In broadcloth and
the expensive satin cloth are saown
In these costumes. which usually in
clude very dressy coat and trail
ing gown TO be worn under 1t. Braid
Ing and embroidery are used on these
light colored tailored suits and on
tile bodlces Of The gowns lace and
chiffon are introduced to add rich
ness.
The appearance OF the plain skirt
III many late models has occasioned
comment but this is not TO be won
dered at with velvet as leader The
pleated velvet skirt Is not so success
ful as the plain: II shows decided
tendency to impede progress. More
over. the fur trimmed costumes Of
zibeline or velvet naturally implies d
plain skirt, and a none too wide one
al that. Although wider skirts are
indicated, 1t will be apparent at once
that the fur band would be impOssi-
bic at the foot of wide or pleated
skirt. Practical and economic rea.
sons would protest against 1t.
Separate blouses will be worn a
great deal during the coming sea
son. but they must harmonlze With
the skirt with which thcy are worn
This harmonizing effect is produced
by many clever devices on the part
of the dressmaker. bits OF the skirt
material being appliqued 10 the
blouse fabric. or strappngs and 9th
er details of the waist being fash
toned OF the skirt stun Where this
Is impossible as in the case Of a
blouse built 10 match a ready bought
cloth suit, the color Of the suit ma
terial Is matched with the utmost
care In chiffon or other material fDr
uae blouse. often a transparent ma
terial OF the skirt color being laid
over white.
There Is fad just now for these
transparent blouses. Two piece
suits must often be worn to matinee
or restaurant luncheons, and some
thing more dressy than even the
handsomeHt lingerie blouse is re
qnIred. A very dainty and inexpens
i've blouse for such occasions may be
made OF tucked net or chiffon. and
this blouse. fashioned loosely, may
be worn over an ordinary white lin
gefie slip. II one does not care Il
invest In silk one
E~rt.~ A. ft~tw,a ~ssah.n xt1~.s s..n..a
ful blouses when exactly the right
color can be obtained. The crepe ID
Chine waist. like the satin one
looks best when made up quite
simply. the trimming being added
rather In hand embroidered stitches
and French knots than In contrast
ing material or lace. Tucks are al
ways good and ihis year very ,lns
thread tucks are used in alienation
with quite wide ones some Of the
chiffon hlouses showing tucks an
inch and a half wide. Satin ans
creme de Chine waists In TAILORED
style are appropriate for morninl
wear, and these models should bs
most simply made and should faster
in front or lust to The left OF ihs
front. covered buttons and pleate,
frill forming the trimming. Frilli
are extravagantly used on nearly al
hlonses Sometime they are OF III,
material, bui often they are of con
ifastine fabric. but. whatever thl
fabric or The color. he fril is always
pieated Gathered ruifles are no
counted correct on shirt waists.
Irish lace continues to be the favor
ite for trimming washable hIouses
and this lace Is used on linen. crep'
aud tine marquisetie for wear will
WfnInr aIliIe While Ianannen nlll