Evening journal., 1909-06-17
Yesterday and Coday In Dress
fasbtons Chat Hre fading Into the Limbo
Of Cbfngs Chat Dave Been ~ * *

there is no doubt that the bodice that
is worn over the skirt coming below
the normal waist line and sometimes
sharply pointed in front is decidedly in
the van Of fashion, a forerunner of tho
moyenage modes which are advocated
by the few.
Another decided note in the sum-
mer's fashion is the close fitting cor
sage. molding the figure from neck to
knee. not unlike the old clinging jer-
sey. and the killed short skirt worn
beneath this bodice still further helps
to carry out the resemblance. These
tight fitting waists are covered with
embroidery or rat-tail braiding or with
crochet lace for lingerie frocks and for
evening wear, incrusted with jet or
jewels.
BY our coats. too. shall we recognize
the newest tailor mades from that
which had its birthday last season.
The latest coats are long and button
across at the left hand button corner.
at or below the knee. But this is
hardly a style which will have much
vogue during the hot weather. and 1t
is doubtful whether it will be a lasti--g
one. There is, on the other hand, a
return to favor of the bolero. our
faithful friend of many seasons. but
lost awhile In view of the descent of
the waist to its proper place, it looks
as If the bolero might once more have
the entire to the court OF fashion. But
women are rarely guided by a sense Of
fitness in their tailor mades; rather.
they seem possessed of a demon of
contrariness. The very long coat is
becoming alike to the stout and to the
] fcfn he
abundance of flesh in the one case and
the lack OF it in the other. But no; the
fat woman will welcome the bolero.
which will add to her rotundity. and
the thin woman will choose a coat
buttoning tight across the chest, just
where it should not, and thus both
confirm the wisdom of the writer of
"Sartor Resartus."
A detail which marks the dividing
line between today and yesterday is
the decline Of the high collar and tue
substitution of the rundown or Peter
Pan design. But the Peter Pan is sell
dom worn, except by the young girl.
without a very fine outstanding band of
tulle around the throat. for daylight Is
not always kind to the skin. And this
pretty fashion means the revival Of
bow cravats. Ard speaking OF bows
brings to mind the fact that they are
being worn on skirts. catching up a
drapery or doing duty as sash at the
back or, again, knotted at one side Of
the waist of the pinafore suits still in
high favor.
The mousseiine coat for dressy sum
mer wear has superseded the lace
model. but It is very perishable. and
instead of being represented in white
It is of some fashionable color and
worn over costumes of white, biscuit
or tussore shades. And. apropos OF
modish colors, blue is having great
popularity, and the old crushed straw
berry. as well as a real rose pink. Is
very fashionable. while a faint mauve'
verging on gray, has received the un-
pleasing name of mauve neurasthe-
nioue-an unhappy sign Of the times
when the prevailing ailment TO which
! the wear and tear Of modern life has
Q brought the majority Of womankind
uenetrates even to the colors Of our
u wearing apparel.
o CATHERINE TALBOT.