Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-12-17
CAIRO. Egypt. November.

CAIRO. Egypt, November.
A Jew minutes after breakfast on a
bright November morning our ship
passed from the Mediterranean and
anchored at the entrance to the
Suez canal. 1t was planned that
we should spend four days in Egypt.
at Cairo and elsewhere while the steam
CT should slowly pass through the canal
and be ready for us at the city of Suez
upon our return from Cairo.
Considerable concern was felt by the
captain and by the officials Of the Ham
burg American line in Germany, as they
had some fears that possibly the big ship
might have difficulty in getting through
to the Red sea-
The canal varies in depth from IS to
80 feet. In leaving New York our vesseI
(The Cleveland) sank 80 feet i'm the wa
ter, out as the vessel lay at anchor ready
to enter the canal. after the consumption
of coal and supplies for several weeks, it
was drawing only 2S feet.
BY the removal Of some of the water
ballast, the captain pronounced that he
would bring the Cleveland through and
be ready for us at Suez, though it was
believed by many that the vessel might
have to be pulled OFF the road in some
places.
Even the directors of the canal felt
Cleveland is reported to be the longest
and largest vessel that ever attempted to
pass from the Mediterranean to the Red
sea. They promised to give the big ship
the right of way and orders were given
that no vessel should try to pass the
Cleveland in the canal.
As soon as our vessel was anchored off
the center OF the town, il was quickly
surrounded by scores of row boats In
some were divers begging for coins to be
thrown into the water; in others were mu
sicians playing violins and guitars with
the hope that money would be dropped To
them; in others were vendors of fruits
and souvenirs and merchandise; in others
were boatmen begging for the chance to
row us ashore.
Descending to one of the small boats we
were quickly rowed to the land by
tall darJS-skinned Egyptian: he was bare
footed and wore a long. loose fitting robe,
white in color and reaching almost to
his feet
Passing through the custom house with
out difficulty we looked with amazement
upon the varied races that go to make
up the cosmopolitan population of Port
Said
With two hours to spend i'm the city, I
secured a carriage in company with two
friends. Our driver was a fat Turk, wear
ing the Oriental turban. and able to
speak, in his way, English, French, Ger
man, Spanish, italian and Greek. besides
his native tongue, Arabic. His charge for
two hours was only two shillings each,
though as usual on this side of the At
lantic. an extra tip was of course ex-
pected.
Port Said is considered to be the, most
cosmopolitan port in the world. 1t has a
population of $4,000 people, representing
nearly every race on earth. One-fourth
of the inhabitants are European English.
Spanish, Italian, Creek, the rest are
black, brown. or dark skinned people. rep
resenting races so varied that only an
expert could identify all of them.
The city is modern. and has grown up
rapidly since the completion of the ca
nal. IT has caught the driftwood of hu-
manity and has a reputation for being
very wicked.
Kipling wrote: There is iniquity in
many ports of the wrold, and vice in all;
but the concentrated essence of all ini-
guilty and all the vices of all the con-
tinents finds itself at Port Said in that
sand bordered hell"
This was written years ago: since that
time, under the control of the Fngllsh
the refining and reforming influence of d
better type of civilization. The custom
house, the postoffice and several public
buildings are attractive while many of
the European residents are elegant. The
native homes, with few exceptions, were
unaatractive; in most cases they were on
narrow streets, surrounded by dirt and filth;
in some cases there was squalor and deg
relation almost indescribable. There are
several good churches. The Greek church
was on our road and for a few minutes
we watched an interesting service with
in. The Mohammedan mosque attracts at
tention by reason of the tall minaret
which rises high into the sky and pre-
sents a graceful appearance.
Soon after entering the sandy city we
saw a long train of camels coming down
the streets, laden with merchandise and
bound for a journey across the desert.
With our Turk as interpreter, arrange
ments were made for the Bedouin driver
to stop his camels for a kodak picture.
The snapshot was taken and handing
the Bedouin a small coin, / started for
the carriage. Immediately 1 was sur
rounded by a dozen boys good natured-
ly, but loudly calling for "backshesh,"
(tips). They had seen the money in
my hand and they begged vehemently
and strenuously for a gift. They caught
hold of my arms and for a moment sur
rounded as l was it was impossible to
go forward.