Los Angeles herald., 1909-01-10

lexponents Of the fashion. 1t does seem as
If 1t would be rather too bad if. after
the majority of dressmakers. tailors and
seamstresses had at last attained to the
long lines, within a year an entirely diff
iferent proposition has to be faced, but in
fashions too long a look ahead is not to
be Eashly advocated and for the moment
long simple lines are the ones to choose.
Most charming ape the brown, taupe and
gray velvet costumes all on the more
elaborate order; touch of black satin in
reVers and girdle is quite smart. and if
becoming makes the costume seem ouitA
original, especially if black furs are worn.
Wlth brown costume charming effect is
gained by the use of a darker shade Of
brown, in satin or velvet, with dark but not
black furs. A touch of color in waistcoa+
or girdle lightens the all black costume
and makes it more youthful if that is de-
lsired, and the brocaded waistcoat is never
seen to greater advantage than with a vel
vet costume
The revers and facings Of the Directoire
coat afford an opportunity for the con-
trast desired, but again word of warn
ing should be spoken against too much
color, either in intensity or amount With
plain satin just the same shade AZ the
velvet this warning is not necessary. and
then the touch of color given by the
waistcoat is sufficient. But rarely is the
result satisfactory if the revers and
waistcoat both are in too strong a con-
traSt
Such voluminous evening wraps as
Dame Fashion has commanded for this
winter were surely never seen, nor known.
1t is most satisfactory to have an even
| ing cloak so large that it will completely
cover the ball gown over which it is worn
and without in any way crushing it, but
| in these days of scant gowns and small
sleeves the enormous wraps are strangely
Iincongruous. The velvet and lace wraps
have already been Illustrated and de-
scribed but the newest models in the light
cloth, trimmed so heavily with wide bands
of fur, are among the later styles. Pale
shades of color are the smartest, and ex-
quisite indeed are many of the coIors,
while lynx, fox, bear and skunk skins are
chosen as trimming. 1t is questioned
whether these huge cloaks are so COM
Portable or so smart as the medium size
loose fitting coats so popular a year ago,
and which, incidentally, are not yet rele-
gated to the back shelf of the wardrobe,
but one of the most often quoted fashion
axioms is that comparisons are odious,'
and there is no looking back for the dew
otee-it may be said the slave-of Dress
COSTUMES MADE OF FUR.
Perhaps the most costly costume in the
fashionable outfit this winter is the entire
costume of fur, and yet there are many
more in number than ever known. Brett
schwanz, baby caracul sealskin, the real
or imitation, not plush, but some skin less
costly than the seal, are the most fash
iona BILE. A long coat and skirt, or, smarter
still this year, the long one piece coat or
gown, is Il most becoming style. Only the
finest and most pGable furs can be used.
and it is difficult task to turn out a SAT-
isfactory garment without making the
wearer look larger than if the gown were
Of another material. This season addi-
tional expense is requisite, for braiding
and applique are used on the fur. 4
most fascinating gown or coat of this or
Ter is finished with broad band Of vel
ret or satin, and there Is an elaborate de-
sign in braiding that begins on the fur
ind goes down into the velvet or satin.
Jet IS used also, but this requires such
careful treatment that as yet it has not
)ften been included.