The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1909-09-24

A skirt killed or box-plaited all
around, the plaits beginning either at
the waist band or at the bottom Of
smoothly fitted hip yoke, is seen in
some of the severely tailored models
but the smarest and prettiest walking
skirts have original arrangements of
plaits and plain panels, and the variety
shown in such designs is amazing. On
the whole the tailored skirt, long or
short, this season is more graceful
than it has been in many day. avoid
ing the extremes of other seasons and
retaining the merits. The smoothly
fitted hip is conducive to an appear
ance of sIenderness and the slight full
ness toward tn ebottom makes grace
full movement possible without intro
ducing any bouffancy or marring the
straight slim lines.
Circular tunic effects, the tunic very
clinging and reaching almost to the
bottom of the underskirt, but cut up at
the sides or buttoning across on the
sides are numerous and with the prin-
eesse trotteur made with coat en- suite
there is often the turned up washer
woman effect on the bottom of the
straight princesse overdress while be-
low a side or box plating appears.
Costume coat whether for wear with
princesse frocks or with blouse and
skirt are in most cases very long,
some reaching almost to the bottom Of
the skirt in redgigote fashion, while
others end half way between the knee
and skirt hem. For the woman to
whom such coats are not becoming or
whose taste they fail to please there
are many attractive models of shorter
lengths, some of them having the en-
dorsement Of some great Partisan max
ers.
Urnquestionably a coat of moderate
| length does go better with a short
skirt than one of the very long mod
els but of course that makes no diff
ference to the crowd II fashion has
decreed long coats. The woman with
force of character. however, will con-
slider her own figure in determining
the length of her coat.
Perfectly plain tailored coats with
mannish revers cut a trif1e low.
straight single breasted fronts and
mannish pockets are made in varying
/ lengths and conform to the passion for
straight and narrow hip lines. as do
| all Of the modish coats. though some
are slightly more fitted at sides and
back than others. On a majority of
the new coats the revers are still low
er. often crossing and fastening at the
waistline or below.
| AS a charming and becoming ad-
| junct to the long jacket for day wear
nothing is more suitable or elegant
than the big white plated jabot Of
sheer null or batiste edged with Irish
lace The high draped collars made of
muslin or lace, with a piping of black
at the top, are also well suited to the
tailored street gown
Cream and white are always becom-
ling next to the face. but to be real
smart everything must be touched with
black Some of the handsomest ia
bots are attached to high collars made
of folds of soft null. The fluffy ones
are prettiest if made Of white wash
blonde edged with frilsl of real val
encienes lace The typical French ia
bot is quite long, reaching. in many
Instances. TO the waist line
i If the low-cut coats buttoning be-
low the waist line retain their popu-
i,larty the waistcoast viii play an inn
portant role in autumn wear In the
long coast there is an effort to throw
one side across the front and fasten
with a few buttons low on the other
side II the waistcoat be not worn the
space at the neck between the revers
can be filed with a dainty jabot. but
for the cool autumn days the waist
coat vii be decidedly preferable.
The possible success of the style Of
1880 has already made a difference II
the fascinating wares al the trim
ming counter. Even now one may
a. .Lory,;por little crrIvruS fhfpo
made of satin rattail braid in black
and colors or rosettes of taffeta with
pinked edges that lok sometimes like
a carnation. These two are the salient
features of the 1880 gown. They are
used to decorate the full skirt and they
also play their part upon the pointed
bodice or upon the elbow sleeves