The Montgomery advertiser., 1909-03-14

ture we are much closer to graceful
 symmetry than we. were with the eX-
 aggerated sleeve effect and accentuated
 waist and hips of Q few seasons back.
 Therefore, remember, to be in accord
 with the seasons edicts. you must
 adopt the close-fitting sleeve, the
 high waist line and the narrow skirt.
 A skirt two yards and a half wide is
 the strictly proper thing. but if you insist upon exacting greater degree
 of comfort, fashion conciliates by all
 lowing you to go to the extent of three
 or even four yards, but there you must
 halt, for beyond that you are "outre."
 In your gowns you are permitted to
 choose between two effects, the close
 or semi fitted princess that clings or
 to the draped effect made with soft,
 limp materials that will do the clinging
 for you. Either of these styles will
 give you the tube or silhouette appear
 ance so arbitrarily demanded. An
 other marked tendency of the present
 styles Is noted In the evening toilettes
 of the decollette effect. The square
 decollette effect is for the time being
 supplanted by the V-shapes. In these
 gowns the fuller drapery effect under
 the bust Is conspicuous and is a well
 come compromise to many who found
 the severe fiat effect very trying, but
 in the hipless feature of the skirts
 there are no concessions made. The
 nearest thing to a concession is in the
 overskirt and double skirted styles,
 which, however, must be draped to
 preserve the ciinging effect. This IS accomplished by the use of supple ma
 terials and by draping the over part
 high upon the figure or by making the
 front short and the back long, or vice versa, to conform with individual pre-
 ferment. The old Greek peplum styles are very fashionable just now. with the top of the overskirt coming well
 over the bust, and what little fullness there Is being drawn in at the waist and then allowed to fall in soft folds
 over the hips and at the sides. TO
 make the overskirt costume successful the underskirt should be long, if not l with trains at least a couple of inches
 on the ground. For early spring
 wear and for evening gowns, however, trains are the thing. Even for alters
 noon costumes the fish tall trains or what has been called the mermaid >ef- feet, are being shown in the smartest circles. Greek and Roman draped ef- | fects are shown on nearly all the 1 gowns. In some of the smartest gowns | brought over there Is a decided dip at | the back and noticeable sloping al
 the front of the tunic. designed to re- | veal the directoire sash, trimming the | underskirt and ending in fancy bow in front. The sash is put on after the | skirt is completed and lis caught about l the skirt just below the knees. rms l ample overskirt is a departure from | the sheath skirt, and to produce the | desired lines must be a material of a | clinging nature. The color of the
 sash must adhere to the color scheme | of the bodice decorations. In coats,
 the long straight lines must be pre- l served and the coat must be but slightly fitted at the back. Cutaway fronts are l shown on nearly everything. These
 are caught together across the bust | with buttons. which. by the way, are
 very important this season. Many or the coats are left open and smart waistcoat shown underneath. On these garments two styles of sleeves
 show the most popularity. The full
 coat sleeve with the turn back cuff
 and the close fitted model without a cuff Some are made with pointed reveres. while others are shown with the high Consulate collar which are very effective with women of slender necks. Some are also made collarless.
 to be worn with separate ruffs. In all l these coats severe tailored lines are
 the most fashionable and coverts and
 broadcIoths are the materials most | favored. The lengths will vary from l thirty-two to forty-two inches. accord 1 ing to the style of the garment. Ad-
 vance styles indicate that thirty six | inch lengths will be the most popu-
 lar. In two and three-piece suits the | semi-fitted coats and hipless skirts are correct. The coats are all cut fn
 a manner that makes them short waist
 ed and are of the cutaway style with
 rounded corners. They show one, two | and three buttons and mock button
 holes All these coats hang loose from l the bust and are from thisty-two to