davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1909-04-11

rayishing brunette. so she kept en-
tirely to blonde wigs for variety, but
2 fashion chronicle OF the day (Journal
Des Danes ct Des Modes) suggests
blonde wigs in the morning and dark
ones at night One can not help but
feel singular appropriateness In the
suggestion. We have not yet adopted
the perruque blonde but perhaps we
are getting there-a puff and a curl
at a time.
The illustration of a merveilleuse or
extremely smart lady Of the director
ate. taken from an old print, shows the
classical trailing robe and veillike
scarf of modified antiquity. the sup
preston of petticoats, and the typical
tendency of the time to leave nothing
much to the imagination-the loose
gloves, pointed sandals and high black
silk stock The hat a la jockey shows
the English influence through return
fng emigres.
Consider the fashionable male beau
ty Of the day-an outburst of eff1ores-
cence between the simplicity enforced
by the Terror and the comparative
sobrietY OF the nineteenth century man.
At first he was called a muscadin-pre-
sunably because he had taken a kindly
fancy for perfuming his breath with
musk-and later he was known as an
dropping, gathered up in the back and
brushed to hang forward above his
eyes. like the ears of dog, powdered
or he. too. indulged in a perruoue
blonde topped by a high crowned hat
of black with ever so small a relic
of the late upheaval attached for dis
cretions sake. the tri-colored cockade.
Often. he wore a large earring. OF
a popular and charming design was
one IN the shape of guillotine with
a crowned and severed head attached.
His cravat of white mousseline rose to
marvellous heights and under 1t with
one button was negligently held a
very little vest. Between the two
shone large locket or pin containing
the portrait of the adored OF the mo-
ment-from the accounts of contem-
porary history. this ornament was never
permitted to grow stale with custom.
his costume continued with a redin-
cote. with enormous reveres and Ian
guidly fastened in loose folds with
sleeves coming half over the hands.
even in the ballroom, or silk stockings
held with ribbons and pointed slippers
of painful narrowness
In 1897 black collars were in vogue
and worn in conjunction with blonde
wigs. The sight of them seems to have
been capable of goading the sturdy
republican soldiers to numerous bursts
of temper Evidently they deduced
the sight a proof of aristocratic and
nti-revolutionary tendencies, for a
habit was formed of attempting to cut
these articles of adornment from their
wearer's neck whenever the military
and the jeunesse doree CHANGED to en-
counter. Several heated little affairs
resulted. NJ dAlmeras notes one in
stance in particular which shows that
the languid manners OF the Muscadin
were not always too deeply engraved.
A Jacobin soldier came up to a Mus
cadin wearing black collar and plac-
ing his hand on his sword remarked:
'Sacre bougre de chouan'' (Which
was about as iesulting method OF
The San Francisco call., 1909-04-11
What of Fatness and Age?

What did the fat ladies and the old,
do? We wonder dubiously. One must
consider that in an age. one of whose
strongest precepts ran thus Les
femmes mont de bon que ce qu'eIles
ont de beau" or. in other words, You
have nothing good about you, madam.
if you haven't beauty" every woman
simply must be beautiful.
IT, in reckless response TO a mo-
mentary fashion you had not cut your
hair off in the neck o la sacrifice in
affecting memory Of the late victims
of the guillotine, you almost univer-
sally did ii after the Greeks, in flets
la Titus or a la Caracalla (presum-
ably under the impression that these
gentlemen were of that race). or, IL
you were helping TO consume the rev.
enues of the city as rapidly as possi-
BILE through the assistance of your in
fiuential gentlemen friends, as did
Nine. Tallien. for instance, and had
exhausted all other means, you might
acquire 30 perruques blondes or cache
folies or wigs at 25 louis apiece
(something like $3.50 and rest your
mind by changing them frequently
during the daf. Nine. Tallien was a
The San Francisco call., 1909-04-11

has not two or three women herr.
wives. daughters or mistresses. but
what each of their gowns costs the
republic part OF it's domains"
'The day of single master" say
the Goncourts. under the caprice OF
single great favorite is gone. 1t
is a swarm of wives and favorites
attaching to itself swarm of king
lngs. There never was a time when
women had more iniuence-or when
they were less respected. They mixed
in all business from the more or less
secret sponsoring of gambling houses
to matters of the administration and
the funds of the administration made
their luxury.
Dancing, gaming, intrigue and poll
tics took the place of wit and con-
alton in the saloons. though we
find some, for instance, Julie Careau,
a famous demimondaine who after
ward married Jaluma. the actor. pre-
senting an announcement to the af-
fairs of literature and art agreeabIy
mingled with those of the heart.
Madame de Stael. that remarkable
woman with the strength and mind
OF man, circulated her famous tur-
ban through the affairs of all and led
a coterie OF lovely beings into a pas
sion for mental Improvement. through
courses al the academy and lectures at
the lyceunl Mesdames Recamier.
Beauharnais. Tallien and others con-
sidered their surprising graces of per-
son further enhanced by their mental
exertions.
The very numerous amours of Ma
dame de Stael seem to have redounded
not so much to the credit of her beauty
or charm as TO her remarkable powers
of persistence and story is told of
the devices of a royalist lover OF hers
to escape a connection grown weari-
some. He seized what seemed a fav-
orable chance for escape TO accom-
pany the royal princesses when they
departed from Paris in spite Of the
dangers and OF Nine de Staels pro-
The San Francisco call., 1909-04-11

expressing ones self impulsively IA.
you can imagine.)
"Sacre bougre dc chouan he said.
For whom are you wearing mourn
ing?"
sior YOU" replied theE other and
blew out his brains. Quick witted and
to the point
A gentle 1anguor, however. not out
of harmony with the soft odors of am
Der and musk waited from his charm
Ing person, accompanied by a myopic
condition of the eyes were among the
peculiar attributes of this being. They
necessitated the support of heavy
walking sticks, the constant assistance
of enormous eye glasses and the adop-
tion of the least wearing manner of
salutation and speech.
At the Gay Palais Royal
OF fascinating complexity. a glance
at that scene of the Palais Royal
where all the amusements. frivolities.
passions and vices of the time seemed
TO converge and epitomize the heart
of Paris Within it's halls and under
its arcades, pressed clubs and cafes
political or amoristic gambling houses
in abundance, having the protective
names of club and conveniently fur
nished some OF them with retiring
rooms for suicides, concert halls, thea
ters and side shows, the most luxifr-
liant of shops milliners, dressmakers
perfumers and what not-fireworks and
balloon ascensions in the vicinity and.
mingling through all, the steady stream
of merveilleuses and muscadins, in
croyables and actresses, shop keepers,
thieves, curious strangers, courtesans
and confidence men-of these two lat
ter classes the Palais Royal was the
happy hunting ground
Ange Pitou. the royalist song maker,
one can imagine In the throng. impu-
dent fearless. sparin8 none. but so be-
loved of the public that although he
was arrested 13 times he was each
time released However, it was too
much to be borne when he began to
make faces every time the republic
was mentioned. They had to deport
him Here too, came all the famous
actresses of, the time, talented or
beautiful or thoroughly indecent, usu-
ally a combination of the three. Here
were Mile. Clarion, beautiful even in
her old age, Saint Huberty, who mar
ried finally the count d'Antraigues.
worked with him In the royalist cause.
and. forced to leave France for Eng
land. was assassinated with him by a
Piedmont servant, Jacobin spy, in
peaceful Surrey; Sophie Arnould of the
opera noted for her art, her beauty
and her lovers; Mezeray, Contat. Lange
and the sad figure of Mile. Desgarcins
of a melancholy coquetry that seemed
to attract tragedy to itself, an actress
Of feeling without beauty, of won
derful charm and talent, the end of
her career reads like a penny shocker.
She attempts suicide with knife on
account of an unhappy love affair and
falling, leaves the stage with her child
for an isolated home In the country, is
attacked by a gang of charcoal burn
ers. bound gagged and thrown into
cave the life OF her child threatened,
and left there for "a hours. The
neig boring villagers rescued her. but
she lost her mind and died soon after
ward. She was scarcely 27 They
The San Francisco call., 1909-04-11

have read somewhere Of a bas-relief
found in the ruins of one of the strange
prehistoric forest cities of South Amer
lea representing a female figure,
adorned with ornaments. whose waist
was bound with complicated bandages
conhning it from ribs to hips. I be-
lieve the author rather bitterly COM
planned that we are not even permitted
the invention of the straight front
corset
At the time of which we are speak
ing the world Of fashion seems TO have
developed, along with other madnesses,
a passion for things antique. Henri
dAlmeras ia Vie Parisienne sous la
Revolution ct le Directoire. 1909 gives
an account of the Introduction of so
called Greco-Roman furniture and or
nament and notes the prevalence OF
much statuary, voluminously bearded,
with togas. and labeled indiscrimi-
nately Homer. Socrates, Aristides. He
remarks. unchivalrously, that in the
midst Of furnishings, uncomfortable
but devoted to antiquity, lived very
modern women who bore but the
vaguest resemblance 10 Lucrece or
Cornelia.
II not in virtues. in costume at leaet
they suggested these model Roman ma
irons to the best of their circum-
stances. White was given preference
over the colors. as in classic times, and
you either became an Athenian or z
Roman; the former IL you were young
and slim and defied simplicity with
your charms-a graceful Recamier-
the latter IL you were of ripper and
more mature attractions and felt ii in
cumbent upon you to combine antiquity
with some of the advantages of modern
luxury. You almost always wore tunic,
more or less. modified and belted under
the bust, with fichus or scarfs, and you
carried your sleeves short as possl-
BILE, for II you insisted upon having the
long tight ones over the hand you
were wearing them q la hypocrite and
laid yourself open TO the terrible sus
picion of not having arms quite so
perfect as the ancient goddesses had
introduced.
There was a distinct advantage which
we do not possess in the names OF
these robes. You were gowned la
Psyche. a Ia Cleopatra, au Lever de
Juno (evidently a species OF morning
gown. IA la Sapho, a la Flora. au Lever
de PAurora, as nymphs, sultanss or
savages. and. therefore. II criticism
was unkind. as il sometime. was. you
could shift the blame back TO Psyche
or Aurora or whoever II might be.
There is one instance (d'Almeras) OF
a public protest against the indulgence
In this charming dishabille on the part
OF these newly rich and risen women
Of fashion. A young woman who had
appeared at public garden fete in an
airy disposal of tulle was so disagree
ably criticised that she was obliged TO
retire and procure a less obvious ar
rangement of draperies. We are told
that. upon her temperance applause
now succeeded to the murmurs of pro-
RHf and here comes subtle
and suggestive point If you are inter
ested in the psychology of decency,
we are left to infer that the reason
for disaproval was that such surprising
coquetry deprived one OF the pleasures
OF dfvinatfon,
The San Francisco call., 1909-04-11

crowded their lives In those days.
Society of the day was composed
largely of rich parvenus and women
solely occupied with their pleasures
and marvelously unrestrained in them
The mass was frightfully poor and had
not even the. joyful excitement of the
guillotine tol support it's misery. 1t
seems that when Chateaubriand re-
turned to Paris after the revolution
he found his concierge there in his
house and the following conversation
occurred according to Charles vir-
maitre) with the preface that the con-
cierge was not bad man, only a little
prejudiced politically.
We'll, well. pere Mirmaud. you have
indeed seen terrible sights
The concierge replied. "Ah monsieur
lie vicomte. that was a good time. that
was. Every day there passed here
under your windows. little duehesses
with throats white as snow, which they
cut for them. Now it is over-they
have taken away the peoples pleas
ure."
There were more than 500 balls op-
ened in Paris in the directorate-for
next to the pursuit of gold. the people
now loved dancing. Summer gardens
and winter gardens combined dancing
with concerts and the poorer danced
in the taverns. In such an outburst
of gayety. suitable places were hard to
get in sufficient quantities, but nothing
seems to have deferred the Parisians
in matters OF such Importance and
they made bathrooms of devastated
and novitiate and religious
seminary. with the orchestra some
times against the vestry whose steps
had been stained with the blood of its
murdered priests
Subscription dances were given
called Balls des Victimes'' and to be
invited you had to have had relative
You saluted a la victime
and you cut your hair off at your neck
out OF compliment to. your late la
mented aunt or cousin or brother or
The San Francisco call., 1909-04-11

whoever IL mlgnJ 80 VINO mad been
forced to wear their coiffure. Some OF
the balls were very splendid and Of
one at the Hotel Richelieu, brilliant
with women of fashion, mondafnes or
demi. Mercier writes: There is not a
member OF the legislative body who
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1909-04-22

and presented Just the opposite 20
what life once held out for them.
DIRTY and hedracpled their brains
penumhed BY the constant use W pol
sonous drugs and whisky. Stunned and
Igfsakcn. they pleaded guilty to tho
charge against them
tho Morton woman was found by
lne police IN hovel on Plum Alley
where sho was conserving with
Lhlnamcn. She o. not only a morphine
mend but ls addicted 10 the use Of
opium. She was unable Go STAY out
the session OF court and after being
l,u back to iail sent word TO h.ave n
plea Of guilty entered for her A. an
hct OF mercy more than anything else.
Judge Bowman sentenced her 20 n
form OF 90 DAYS I'm the city iail There
she VIII De unable 90 get morphine
on opium and there is chance. q bare
habit
The Schoppo woman has been iu
court many times before. charged with
NnsrancN, drunkenness and other or
lehe's- She has been arrested SO Of
yen she has become calloused and to-
lailN lhdiHcrent to her condition or
NC spectacle s'ln presents When
judge bowman genteuccd her Ia so
l''f in Tine city iail. she bounced n-
W Nor scat ana remarked. you can
N.'p me here e.ll winter for all
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1909-04-22

most enjoyable social evening. A feat.
urc Of the event WAS the parfor1ila nee
of the marriage ceremony bv Rev. a. ~
Mcintyre. the service being conducted
IN The same way az nifty years ago. with
mo men and women standing on either
side IN separate rows An elaborate
supper was served the centerpiece be-
ing large cake ln the form of log
cabin, and laden with candles.
Dr. and Mrs b. v. Silver entertain
this evening "a dinner in honor OF M.
and Mrs. j. T. FranlSyn. who leave
shortly for Europe.
Mrs. w c. jennings and daughter
viii spend the summer in Boston.
Mrs. william McCrea cn,ertains the
Sowing club this afternoon.
Mrs Jay RoUndy. who has been visit
lng with Mr. and Mrs Charles Caine
mas returned 70 her home In Mereur.
Mrs. Henrietta Mlerbeck and Miss
Ada ElIerbeck, who have been spending
the winter In Seattle. win return next
week
Mr. and Mrs Joseph Richards leave
shortly for a tip 20 New York
The graduates OF tho L. n. s nurses'
class 09 win be guests Of honor this
afternoon az O. box party az the co..
lonial and a luncheon following al the
College Inn, 10 be given by the gradu-
ates % '0s.
Miss Edith Sherman and w IA.
Sherman will be at home Tor "a time
az 5is First avenue.
y. r Dunn and Miss Edna Dunn have
returned from California
Mrs w. II. Dale eutertains this after
noon at a card party.
A delghtful musical AFFAIR is prom
Used this evening in the program To be
given at the Ladies Literary club. un-
der the auspices OF the music section,
to include the following
Concerto in 6 minor ... .. Mendelssohn
Two pianos. Miss Gray and Miss
Williamson
(a) May Day .......-....R. n Walthers
OBJ At the Making of the Hay.
..,..... ...... ........IAza Lehman
Mrs. Daily.
The Fri King ........... ........ Schubert
II. ]. Bowles accompanied by
Miss Trina Watson
! ne Last smile .s........... W Ollpuhnuut
Mrs HornunH
ia1 largo ..t-... ..-................ Handel
tb) The Son of the Puszta Keler-BeIa
Violin, Mrs TorUd Amoldson:
piano. Mrs. Neldon.
GAP song .......--....... HOratiO Parker
lb) Auf W1edersehen. ...............
............... Carrie Jacob Bond
Mrs. Martha Royle King. accom-
panied by Miss Edwards.
Honor and Arms .......... .... Handel
Mr. Houghton. accompanied by
Mr. Blakesley
.a) The Bird on the Rose &C. FroeHch 4
I'D Robin Adair arr. By Dudley Buck I.
Mrs. DAILY. Miss Allenbaugh Mrs.
Hammer and Miss Schrack
Conductor, Mrs. W. A. WetzeH
Vt the annual meeting Of the music
ection Of the Ladies' Literary club
yesterday the following officers were
lected for the coming year: Mrs s.
}. Nelden. chairman: Mrs A n Pea
lOdy. Vice chairman; Miss Williamson.
ecretaly. and Mrs J O. Hauchett NIB
ariau. The program committee win
onsist Of Mrs. Alvah Lewis Mrs }
\ Treasure. Mrs. w. A. Wetzell and
frs. Nelden.
Col. j. J. Daynes. Jr.. and family
ave returned from Ocean Park, after
three months stay there.
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1909-04-22

stopped n this city while on HE way
Go Washington fO got SOME Invention
patented aud while here was seized with
an attack Of acute hYstcri8 He was kept
h the emergency hospital for few days
le Provo on his Journey whom Boo was
ngoiu taken no. FROM that place DE wns
sent back to bis relatives Ht Los Au-
Relos. Detective Chase accompanying
him.
flemmIng recovered quickly and hir
condition so improved bic physicians oV-
pressed tho opinion DO was sHfo Tor him
ln NHHiu attempt Che journey COB Wash
inetou lle called at The station thIs
morning tO express hiV thanks for thc
Kind treatment hr received here. and
continues on bis trin this eVeuiug.
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1909-04-22
OFFICERS INSTALLED
BY UTAH GRAND LODGE
W. ,. Moore d Grand Master and =
A. sinipkin y Grand
Sccrctar,

The thuty-nftn annual meeting Of The
GRAND lodge of odd Fellows was c,n.
GUIDED last night In odd Fellows han
with the installation of the ofHc,r.
rbnecn during the afternoon saesi.,,
and banquet The matter of "a yridov-e,
and orphans home was referred 10 the
Iudividual lodges after several amend 7
mcnts 90 the present organic statutes
of the order In this state. The o0i-
GERS chosen are as follows.
Grand master. w. J. Moore Of salt
lake city; deputy grand master Tobn
W. Merely Of Eureka grand warden
r. r. Christensen OF Salt Lake Cffvs
grand secretary j. A. Simpltin OF Sail
lake city; grand treasurer. w. M
scott Of salt Lake CITY. grand reprr-
sentative to the sovereign grand lodge
gdward Pcarce.
THE following officers ana commit
tees were appointed; Grand mnrsheI
0-. Iy q Hayball. Logan: grand
guardian. O. Lewis, Richheld. grand
herald r. NJ. Osman, Mercur. Grand
chaplain Rev, NJ. j. Hersey. Vernal.
grand messenger ]. G.. souther salt
lake city.
Committee ON excursion. r. Homer.
r. p scoville, r. Watrous. A. q. Ca
hriclson, r H. Smith, John Merely Il
w. Bowling John Royle
The committee on subordinate laws
was grand secretary. W. o. Carbis and
A. r. McCanne. That on transporta-
ton. G. r. Walker W. l. Emery. b II.
Backmer
District deputy grand masters were
appointed as follows.
salt Lake, w w King: Corinne. g.
W. Bradford: Ogden. Washington Jen-
kns. Park city Alfred Baker: Bling
ham, Frank Ellis: Sandy Levi Olsen:
Eureka, a. l.. Mitchell. Provo. John
Homer; Nephi. Robert r. Bagely Paw
SON. u. p Mcdonald; Mt. Pleasant. Alb
nor Crane; Mant. A. j. Merran. Yer
uaI Grant Cowan. Mercur. Farley
Pratt. Lehl, Robert Beyeridge: Sugar.
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1909-04-22
SOCIAL AND
PERSONAL.

The largest affair Of this afternoon r.
! the bridge party given at Rowland hall
for the benefit OF the Orphans home
ana uay nursery, about 90 tables being
engaged, and a number OF people pres
ent besides the bridge players. The
rooms are bright with flowers ana
about 300 are present Mrs Rachel
s. Miller president OF the association
Is in charge and assisting her are. Mrs
Edwin Kimball, with the refreshments.
Miss lena Hague. the tables. Mrs Sol
SlegcL tho prizes. and Mrs. j. h. Ogles-
by the score cards Among those who
entertain parties are Mrs. Russell L.
Tracy Mrs. NJ. IA Walker Mrs Wind
sOr ". Rice. Mrs John W pclano Mr.
J.. g. Miller. Mrs g. r. Pearsau Mrs.
w. Montague Ferry Mrs Browning
Mrs. II s. Ferry Miss Judge. Mrs. j
r Richards Mrs. j. n. Walker. Mrs. l..
J. Terry Mrs. q. J.. Rood, Mrs Morri-
son. Mrs. O.. G.. Crismon. Mrs u. a.
Jackling Mrs. Hoffman Mrs Hancock.
Miss Kirkpatrick Mrs w N McCrea.
Mrs. Ny. ~ Bintz. Mrs g.. W Boyd.
Mrs a. NJ owen Mrs. NJ. H. Lpman,
Mrs q II. Stichl Mrs j IA Callow
Mrs VIII Ellcrbock. AIRS r. h. Wood
bridge. Mrs Arnold Mrs Samuel q.
Park Mrs Ewing. Mr. E A. Wall
Mrs Bero. MIS- w w. Rivers. Mrs. II
j. Fitzgerald. Mrs W Ames. Mrs SAN
som. Mrs. O. II. Mcmahon ana Mrs. A.
j. Gorham
A pretty anair of yesterday was the
luncheon given By Mrs j. ~ Woodward
and Miss Katherine Judge in honor OF
AIRS n. q. Weber and Miss Weber.
the rooms being decorated with "a pro-
fusion of peach blossoms. and the table
also being bright with the dainty bios
SONS. Bridge followed. the prizes GO
ing % Mrs Ellsworth DaRgett and Mrs.
Don Carlos Roberts The hostesses
were assisted by Mrs H. b Mccormick.
MIS- Frank Judge and MIS- George
Smith About a0 guests enjoyed the
pleasant affair
Yesterday Miss Arutha Pouiton and
Richard Bridge were married in the
temple. and "a large reception was held
900 the evening ut the home OF mo
brides parents. Mr. and Mrs ~ y.
Poult0n. the rooms bong decorated ia
pink and white with "a profusion 90
roses aud carnations. and d number of
relatives and friends assisting IN en-
pertaining. The bride wore "a gown
of white silk and carried brides roses.
MT and Mrs Bridge win he al home
after May l. 81 no ESQ Walnut street.
Yesterday Wns the golden wedding
of hr and Mrs j. w. |
Phillips. and about 70 friends surprised /
them at tho home OF their son. Or Har- /
~ Phillips. oolebntng the event IN a /
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1909-04-22
PUBLIC SCHOOL CoLORs.

After this pupils Of the public schools
can choose school colors from 2e corr.
oihatlons. The committee appointed es-
tcally he fundamental colors renorfe5
yesterday afternoon at the meeting OF
the principals and SUPERVISORS Before
the coiors can De selected however. he
computation VIII have to be submitted
10 II. i. Henderson and Byron Cum
mings. members OF the board of educa-
ton, who have been appointed as "a spe-
cial committee
The advantages and disadvantage of
summer school for pupils below bigb
school was discussed in general II was
the opinion Of majority of the princi-
pa's anu huperFlsors who spoke that q
was beneficial and the pupils moved mn
OF school oN9
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1909-04-22
EXPRESSED HIS THANKS.
Charles Fleming Returns To Town aud
Calls on Police

Detective George Chase and other Of.
cials of the police department were con-
siderably surprised this morning 90 re-
ccivc q visit from Charles Flcmurinr.
the young man from Los Angeles. who
was taken back Co that place from
month ago
10 will De recalled that fIemmine