The Morning examiner. [volume] (Ogden, Utah) 1904-1910, 1909-04-04
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Latest New York Models Quite
sTaiIor Made" in Outline:
Heavy Embroidery Coming
Into Vogue

NOV that the eye has become aocus.
toned to the slender outlines o.
skirts and sleeves, we can smile at thS
eXaggcration Of description with which
these stylc-changcS were heralded and
the caricature drawings supposed TO rep.
resent some OF the advance models. II
was with the same ridiculc. and it seems
with more reason, that the seven yard
around skirts and balloon sleeves OF, per-
laps fifteen years ago were introduced
and If we compare the fashion plates OF
the two periods we must admit that 1909
shows decided advance i'll the way OF
beauty and good taste.
\ fitted sleeve is not necessarily 4 tight
sleeve 1t may follow the contour OF the
arm without sacrificing either comfort or
appearance Not so much the sleeve as
the waist-lnc has been the troublous
question of the Empire models. Every
description accents the so-callcd hip
less figure. and when your mirror shows
the possession OF very evident hips. you
fccl these gowns arc not for you.
There may be protest at the Sug
gestion for increasing the size OF the
waist, but that is 4 part OF the plan
which, If carried out, will prove lis own
wisdom The same arguments OF IN
creased waist measure were used when
the straight-front Inc was introduced
INTO the corset. but the result was such
general figure improvement that that
feature was forgotten
Remember that the waist-lne Is not
the entire figure. and that a generally
symmetrical effect IS to be preferred 10
a fixed waiSt-measure. This much of
good work IN the cause OF good looks
has the Empire vogue done, though II rc-
quired demonstration to prove It In
stead OF stout woman getting herself
into costume or coat that curves III at
the back and sides to the smallest pos
slble waist. then out again TO full round
hips, let out the corset until the line IS
4 gradual. not sharp curve, and have
the garment ht easily. IVA. will look
At figure in what is known as semi
fitted coat, where the waiStinc is only
suggested, not defined. YOU will recognize
a nearer approach 10 slcndcTncss than
had seemed possible
The High Waist-Lino
Skirts cut with the high waist-linc arc
becoming more popular every day, They
must be mounted on a girdlc foundation
that fits closely, but the skirt portion IS
not darted III TO snug FIT, II hangs cas-
lily from the top Of the girdle support.
When all outside eirdlc Of ribbon or silk
is used. it is drawn snugly at the upper
edge. but left moderately loose at The
lower, which is really the regulation
waist-linc Though the Empire gown
proper is long enough 10 lie on the
ground all around. this length is Imprac
ticablc for any but gowns for indoor
wear The shorter lengths arc not awk
ward, though the average walking length
this season is somewhat longer than last
year, the skirt just escaping the ground
evenly all around.
Nor is the width so great, and gorcd
skirts arc more often seen than plated
models Where suit formerly meant
two picccs-a skirt and coat-thc popu-
lar form now is called ''thrce-picce cos
tune with waist, skirt and coat match
ing. The waist is not necessarily OF the
same material as the skirt. nor need it
be actually attached TO 1t.
Net dyed in all the staple colors is
perhaps first favoritc for waists. 1t har-
monies, for this purpose, with prac-
tically any other material, and can be