Omaha daily bee., 1909-09-19

trees the ~stringfellow method is not REQ
commended. Use only the old method with
such variations as your soil and climate
dictate. with few exceptions shrubs
should be set in the autumn, and hedges
planted at that season stand a much bet
ter chance for a thick growth the second
year thai those planted in the spring OF
early summer.
while large trees from the forest are
often moved with perfect success l always
advise buying large trees from the nursery
II such trees can be had. The reason for
this is that the nursery grown trees have
better roots and as a rule more shapely
trunks. The idea that forest grown trees
are harder because Of the inclemencies
they have weathered is a mistake. The
nursery grown trees are the harder Of the
two.
Fruit trees generally enjoy the privilege
Of being transplanted into fertile and well
cultivated soil. 1t is for that reason prin-
cipally that one hears so little about fruit
trees not growing and so much about the
loss Of ornamental and shade trees. Only
in recent years have people begun to re-
alize that a tree, regardless OF variety,
needs careful transplanting.
Tn planting large trees-I mean trees six
inches in diamete and oven-the best plan
Is to leave IL all TO the nurseryman. II,
however, you must or prefer to do 1t your
self your first duty is to prune the roots
just enough to get rid Of the broken and
bruised ones The top should be trimmed
much more severely. but not enough to
make It unsymmetrical. Unless the soil is
fertile and in good condition the hole
should be made much larger than the roots
actually require.
"As much OF the poor soil and rocks as
possible should be removed and their place
filled in with good loan. The tree should
be carefully and exactly placed, and after
the soil has been well trampled down it
should be further settled by having the
roots thoroughly soaked with water. Where
one can the water supply Of
course using the hose is a simple matter,
but where this is not to be had at least
one barrel Of fresh water should be al
lowed for each tree.
'If good loan is used there Is no need
for fertilizer the first year. At the be-
ginning Of the second year a good top
dressing OF well rotted manure should be
1 use about two barrow loads for
each tree. Where such manure is not to
be had then chemicals may be used with
excellent results. Each tree should receive
three pounds each OF muriate Of potash and
bone and two pounds Of nitrate of
soda.
Among rapid growing trees the silver
maple takes first rank. 1t has the dis
advantage Of top spreading too much, the
wood being rather soft and breaking
easily. The Carolina poplar, cottonwood,
Lombardy poplar and black locust are also
because of their rapid growth.
lave the disadvantage of being
short lived and their downy seeds are GEN
orally considered a nuisance.
Among the moderately rapid growers
that / rate as desirable are the American
elm. sugar maple. Norway maple, Scotch
elm, American linden, European linden,
tulip tree, sycamore. sweetgum,
red oak. pin oak, scarlet oak and horse
The American elm has size,
grace and symmetry to recommend it, but
on the other hand it is liable to be at
tackled by the elm leaf beetle in the victn-
ity OF New York and New England.
The sugar maple mas size, grace and
foliage, but it will die out at the
top, especially in light soils. The Norway
maple branches too low, but II properly
trimmed is a beautiful tree. The Ameri-
can lindens are not strong. or symmetrical,
and though the European varieties have
both these qualities they are subject to
many diseases, notably leaf spot. The
sycamore has a vigorous individuality, but
it is too coarse for many positions and
sheds it's bark in an untidy manner. Oaks
nave longevity and dignity and though no
one can describe them as rapid growers
they are not as slow as many people credit
them with being"