davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1909-03-27
FRED o. SlBLEY.

Mr.. Sibley has ben one Of the board
Of county commissioners for over ten
years, representing all that time the town
ship of Alaska. He has been resident
of Beltrami county for nineteen years,
some time before the county was Or
ganized. He has resided in Island Lake
village, his present home, for about three
years, although he has lived in other
parts of Alaska township.
At present he is engaged in farming,
dairying and stock raising, thus proving
the claim of the Pioneer that Beltrami
county is an ideal section for the pur-
suits Mr.. Sibley is now engaged in.
Next spring, Mr.. Sibley proposes build
ing an individual creamery so as to
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1909-03-27

ago so that he might follow farming
pursuits and logging, the latter industry
in which he is at present engaged.
Mr.. Wright is a deep thinking and
conservative official. He is ever alert
to the county's needs, liberal in his ideas
as to granting necessary improvements,
yet harboring the thought of retrench
ment uppermost. He is a man of means
who is anxious to see things move along
toward the goal of progress and develop
ment, and is an officer who has fully
qualified for all the anticipations of his
constituents.
The Bemidji daily pioneer. [volume] (Bemidji, Minn.) 1904-1971, 1909-03-27
HELLO CLEMENTSON.

Mr.. Clementson is the county commits
sioner from Gudrid township, in the Sec
ond district. He is native of Goodhue
county, this state, the same county from
which Judge Stanton halls. He began
his career as farmer, but at suitable
age he became an apprentice in boiler
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18
Mannish Models for Morning Use--P1eats the Con-
spicuous Feature for Fall Winter Coats Open
ing to the Waist--Velvet Again in Favor.

suggest thickness or clumsiness about the
body. The seven-eighths fitting coat de-
fines the figure a bit more than the old
three-quarter fitting style. but by no
means an effect of snugness on the figure.
The waistline on these new coats is set a.
low as possible. and all the lines, at front
and back. as we'll as over the hips, are de-
signed to give an effect of slenderness and
undevelopment of figure. The simpler,
models close below long revers
with four buttons, and the only trimming
used is silk collar facing or perhaps a
bit Of braiding in straight border effect.
More elaborate than these mannish mod
els for morning wear are the coats with
fiat pleats set in below the hip where a
wide belt or huge pockets cover the join
ing or pleats to upper part. Even two
piece suits show these pleated coat skirts;
but the style Is SO eccentric and pro-
nounced that one doubts whether it will
last. At any rate, these coats are not
likely to affect the popularity of the al
ways favored mannish model. which, year
in and year out, holds it's own with wom-
en- who like this conservative style for
morning wear. Innovations are always
more or less Of risk, for they may or
may not take with popular fancy: but es-
tablished styles brought up-to-date by lit
tie variations of shape or trimming are
always a safe choice for the woman who
cannot afford to follow every passing
mode and to discard a garment that has
become the least bit passe.
Speaking Of established styles, every
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18

the other day in an authoritative mourn
ing shop on Fifth avenue showed pleat-
ing of this new crepe all the way down
the front, crisp little bow of the crepe
being set just beneath the chin. Filet net
blouses also have folds Of this crepe set
on in lengthwise rows, a little yoke or
black net or chiffon being set into the
square opening at the neck. Another
smart mourning blouse was Of black filet
heavily covered with a soutache pattern,
yoke and sleeves being Of crepe.
lightened for two years. After the first
six months, however, the veil may be
thrown back from the face. The widows
veil is now draped over much larger
toaue-or bonnet-than used to be the
case. and very young widows sometimes
wear the veil draped over quite good
sized hat this hat being severely plain,
with no trimming whatever-not even
bows or rosettes of the crepe.
For a mother, daughter, son or sister
the veil is worn around the hat. falling
well below the chin, and Is usually OF
Brussels net or mesh with crepe bands
or ribbons stitched In rows at the edge.
For the first deep mourning veil worn in
a fine grenadine, which. while not as
sitting as crepe, offers the same protec-
ton to the face.
These more important dress details are
settled by conventionality-and ones
dressmaker usually knows what is cor
rect and in good taste. 1t is in the minor
details Of mourning that many women
trip up-in the little things that make
such q deal Of difference in absolute cor
rectness and in good style also.
For instance. the black-bordered hand
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18
FASHION NOTES.

laces-or rather shoe ribbons-in the color
OF ones frock Bronze ties with natty
scarlet bows were seen with a brown
and red feathers Violet shoe ribbons
were worn at the races In white buckskin
pumps. violet parasol. stockings and hat
accompanying white linen costume. Blue
silk hose and blue shoe ribbons were
smart with a pretty frock Of dotted blue
muslin.
A New Handkerchief Conceit.
EOR an autumn trousseau a dozen rather
l novel handkerchiefs have been sent
over from Paris-aloug with some ravish-
ing lingerie. The handkerchiefs were
hand embroidered, a narrow pink hem
lawn. In the corner of each mouchoir
was a tiny figure embroidered in cotton
exactly matching the colored hem. Little
men and women in quaint costumes, queer
birds and animals were the designs, each
figure having SO much individuality that
the usual initials were not needed to dis
tinguish the handkerchief from others.
Big Hats Useful as Well as Smart.
tIT, We come to stay all night" announc-
! ed the pretty girls chum. land
1 haven't brought sign of a handbag
just look here" She removed her tower
ing hussar turban with it's big velvet
crown, set it upside down in her lap, I'M
tied the ribbons which drew In the silk
lining and took out of the crown a dainty
robe de mutt compactly folded. ITS a
great scheme asserted she. You can
carry home small parcels that way-or
even your lunch. wrapped in tissue paper.
The big hats weigh SO much. anyway.
that little more doesn't count"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18
p 5eZ1zZEZOL1ZZE:g
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kerchief is no longer carried by well
dressed women. who consider the wide
black border ostentatious and vulgar. The
correct mourning handkerchief is pure
white linen of the finest grade that one
can afford. and ultra-smart mourning
handkerchiefs have extravagantly deep
hems-scarcely more than a four-tnch
square Of plain linen being left In the
center Of the handkerchief. Three tiny
initials, plainly designed, may be en-
broidered in black in one corner.
Jewelry, of course, must be laid aside
when mourning is donned. The only gold
jewelry permissible is the plain gold we'd
ding band. A handsome gold watch can
not always be discarded for one Of black
enamel or gun metal; but the watch
should be tucked out of sight In the bod
narrow black MORE ribbon. Brooch. ear
rings and collar pins of dull jet are per-
missible, but very little jewelry Of any
kind is in best taste. Pearls are NDunted
correct for mourning wear If Bet sappro-
priately In black settings, and some very
beautiful brooches in flower shapes have
petals of black enamel with pearl CEN
tiers.
Even gloves and shoes are in prescribed
styles for mourning wear. The patent
leather shoe Is not worn by sticklers for
correctness with mourning raiment;
though many women are not 80 particular
about this detail Of dress. Dull calf Is the
best choice for street footwear, and in
the house pumps or Shippers OF DIack
suede may be worn. Suede gloves are the
accepted choice for fashionable mourning,
but so many women have a strong pref
erence for glace kid that this leather Is
often seen with even very smart mourn
ing. Black dogskin gloves may be donned
with short walking suits for morning
shopping wear.
No detail of mourning garb, however.
counts for so much as neckwear. The
dainty white line at throat and wrists is
often the saving grace that lifts cos
tune from somber inSignihcance to
becoming and attractive toilet. With even
deepest mourning this line of white at the
throat is allowable and the black blouse
should never be worn without it, for a
plainly made black waist fitting up
around the neck has very unkempt and
unfinished appearance. With formal
frocks all in one piece a pleated ruching
of white crepe lisse makes a satisfactory
neck finish.
The widow. of course. has but one neck
finish-the- straight, fine bands of white
organdie. two inches wide on the collar,
and bands four or five inches deep at the
wrists. These bands are not hemmed.
the stiff organdie being simply turned un-
der in deep hem. These bands must in
evitably be renewed each time the blouse
10 donned. for they must be crisp and I'M
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18

the builders OF authoritative
mourning garments. Cheap black is al
ways a poor investment. for the poor dyes
do not keep their color and soon become
dingy and shabby, whereas a fine black
fabric, rich in color and texture,
may often be used and reused to good
advantage Broadcloth, serge and nuns
yelling are all correct mourning materials,
and for house frocks there are dull silks,
crepe de chine. chiffons and the service
able mohair for neat little around-the-
house dresses for morning and afternoon
wear.
Folds and stitched bands of silk and
plaitings Of dull silk ribbon may be used
for trimming If one prefers not to wear
crepe. The latter material. of course, Is
always expensive, but it adds a charac-
ter of elegance and distinction to the
mourning costume which may not be
gainsaid, no matter what ones personal
prejudice against the somber trimming
may be. Crepe is so distinguished that
1t is worn now not only with widows
mourning. but also with mourning for
mother, daughter or sister; though in all
except widows mourning crepe Is sup
posed to be discarded after the first six
months
Crepe comes now in a supple, new tex
ture. which is especially easy to manipu-
late. and a silk mourning blouse seen
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18
Value of Tissue Paper.

THE value Of tissue paper can hardly
be underestimate when 1t comes to
packing things especially in a trunk. The
shoes, hair brushes and many other USE
full articles can be wrapped in tissue paper
and kept from rubbing against each other.
The paper takes very little room and acts
in the same way as cotton. Dainty gloves
and neckwear should be wrapped in this
manner.
The double-width crepes satinS,
broadcloths, etc. are excellently adapt
ed for the circular or draped cape. and
this season there are innumerable new
candidates for such uses among the
modish materials.
Ends of sashes are fringed or tasselled.
or finished with whimsical knottings and
balls. which be~~ f-"r' ,nna cords In ir-
regular lines
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18

women. so seldom is there any decided III
curve between bust and hips.
These long-waisted coats, however, seem
somehow to have more dignity than the
trifling Incroyable models of last years
directoire vogue. which with their short
tops and tapping. bebuttoned coat tails
were seldom really imposing. Better STILL
all the new coats suggest comfort and
plenty Of room about the shoulders, ana
it really seems as though we shall be able
once again to cling to a car strap and ad-
lust a hatpin without first unbuttoning our
garment in front.
Tailors lay great stress, with these loose
coats. on what they term 'tapering lines;
which means a cut that, while giving
roomy width at the shoulder, does not
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18
OYSTERS a la Rene.

DARBOIL twenty oysters until plump
and set aside ready for use. When
the chatting dish is brought out the fact
that the oysters have been made ready
beforehand will save much delay In the
little supper. Pour a cup Of milk or
cream into the chafing dish and, when
steaming. pour back into cup or pitcher.
Now put large tablespoon Of butter into
the blazer and. when bubbling. stir In q
tablespoon of -four. When the two are
well blended the hot milk may be added
bit by bit until thick, creamy sauce Is
formed. To this should be added pinch
of salt, a dash of paprika, bit Of fne-
ly chopped parsley, several drops of lemon
juice and just soupcon of mace or nut.
meg. Stir into this sauce the parboiled
oysters, serve steaming holland receive
the ecstatic comments of your guests.
scalloped Oysters.
Open and beard a dozen oysters, and
scald them for a second In their own
liquor. Make a white sauce, into which
some oyster liquor is poured. a pinch OF
cayenne, tablespoonful Of anchovy sauce
and squeeze of lemon. Boil this until
it is cooked. Put the oysters in the seal
lop shells. pour the white sauce over
them, strew white bread crumbs on the
top and place some butter in small pieces
all over. Brown them and send to table
very hot.
Very smart for golfing. motoring and
all sorts of autumn sports are wide
brimmed hats in English tweed. trim
med with scarf and loose-looped bow
of soft leather.
Sleeves cut in one with the rest Of
the bodice are to be seen on some Of
the newest models from Paris, and
they are so cut and modelled that no
armhole seam appears.
The old favorite MILDLY blouse now has q
rival in the MILDLY sweater. which Is very
like the original blouse.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18

woman Is giving a cordial welcome this
fall to the -pleated skirt. This style crops
up oftener than any other sartorial type,
but there is good reason for this peren-
NAL popularity. The pleated skirt has a
long list of merits to commend it. For
one thing 1t is comfortable to walk In.
One may tramp along happily over a wet
pavement with no danger that ones shoes
will be rubbed by a clinging skirt. for the
loose pleats swing clear of the feet at
every step. The pleated skirt also Is easy
to hang, and it always looks graceful and
smart. Above all, it has a certain jaunty
youthfulness possessed by no circular or
gored model, which alone would endear 1t
to womankind.
Some of the French tailors are making
up pleated skirts in the regulation style;
that is, with the pleats set into the belt
and stitched fat over the hips: but the
ajority of these skirts show the pleats
falling from a fitted hip yoke, this yoke
being sometimes quite shallow and in
other cases reaching we'll below the hips.
Often panels are set on at front or back.
and many smart skirts show little over
skirts or TUNES over a killed founce.
In fact. the dressmakers are predicting
that by Christmas we shall all be wear
ing overskirts in some form or other;
plain, fitted tunic effects on tailored skirts
and veritable panniers and draperies on
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18

kind has gladly followed lead so desir-
able.
One reason for the short walking skirt
is the pet-dog habit, asserts tailor who
caters to a very fashionable clientele. 1t
seems that women who own pet dogs like
to walk down the avenue with their pets
of a morning, and, as everybody who owns
a canine knows, the combination of dog,
a dog leash, handbag and a long skirt Is
impossible The most cultured doggie is
apt to have emotional impulses at mo-
ments when he forgets the proprieties and
makes a mad dash after an automobile, a
cat or some other vitality interesting OBJ
ject, and both hands must be available TO
haul him back to order.
So while coats have come down. skirts
have gone up, and the result is that be-
tween the bottom Of the new coats and the
skirt hem there is often not more than
hands breadth Of space.
These new long coats have also very
long openings, some of the lapels turning
back clear to the waistline. where the coat
is held by single button. Many OF the
more dressy models have this low fasten-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18
A Dainty New-Old Color.

D Use, the creamy, delicate shade OF
u old lace. is extremely fashionable
now, and lace guimpes and yokes. as well
as jabots in this tint, are particularly
good style with cloth costumes for fall.
II real old lace is not obtainable a very
good substitute may be made with ordi-
nary tea This tea should be quite weak
and, of course, without milk or sugar,
which would make the lace sticky and
stiff There has been a fad in Paris this
summer for frocks of cream batiste, trim
med with this bise lace, and the color is
really far more softening and becoming
than dead white.
Colored Shoelaces Now.
DARTS is up to all sorts of fads. The
l very latest notion seems to be shoe
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18
To Clean Old Lace.

lace should never be cleaned with
- gasoline, as it will take the natural
oil OUT of the lace threads. Being veg
etable product, it is rendered very Crisp
stiff and liable to snap. The lace should
first be allowed to soak in cold water. TO
which can be added a small pinch OF DO
rax. This should be then thoroughly
rinsed out to prevent its rotting the deli
cate fabric When the lace is very valu-
able it should be basted to old linen to
keep it from stretching. and it should be
taken out Of the sun as soon as dry. In
washing an Irish lace collar 1t should
always be pressed while 1t Is lying right
side downward upon a Turkish towel four
times folded. This makes soft surface.
and when the lace is pressed it will have
none Of the shiny effect that ironed laces
gradually acquire. Before washing any
lace all Of the holes should be carefully
mended with No. $50 cotton thread.
Excellent top coats for motoring and
general wear through the cold weather
tweed with trimming or stitched straps.
wide, roomy pockets and large orna-
mental buttons
There is great vogue for Russian
needlework. the brightly colored cross
stitch being used with great effect
upon the plaques with which SO many
corsages and skirts are decked.
With the return of long waist lines,
short-waisted frocks and gowns are
being heightened by deep belts of peas
ant bodice fashion, from which there
usually drop sash ends.
Attractive frocks Of foulard, which
are Immensely popular this season.
show q small puffed sleeve at the
shoulder, from which falls q full. loose
sleeve Of net
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18

..r,.+e-the least hint of untidiness Is IN
After the first six months. "nea
mourning is lightened a little. neck \, a net
Gun h pan .,,orn and two very attractive bits
may m nyo 11 neckwear are illustrated The
% oa,,ar and cuff of handkerchief linen are
always in good taste. and for s mo s,rnnIe
wear such neckpieces are are h nv hand and
e e,,e , detail Of the work being daintiness
itself. orn,np think
that the woman in mourning ,, mas "a a s sn.
easy e1a "a r So few changes being necessary.
P Rut 1 II takes deal Of time Just to keep
in order these little neckwear or drit tss
which, with their fine stitcheIy ane 1 res
constah. go either a serious drain on the
ppo oceib or unremitting personal atten-
ton.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18

HE surprising thing
about the fall styles
to most people is
the asto n i S h / n g
crop that waist
lines h a We taken.
From away up un-
der the a r.m p t s
they have descend
ed to the very hips,
and the new coats
might be built for a
race of waistless
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18

more elaborate frocks. Many of the
ready-to-wear suit skirts have what the
saleswomen will assure you is the new
tunic overskirt. This is really separate
circular skirt, clinging snugly over the
hips and falling over deep-pleated
fiounce. Some Of these tunic overskirts
extend downward in, points; others cross
the front of the skirt at the height of the
knees in what is known as the lambrequin
effect, the material sloping downward in a
cascade at the back. Often these little
tunics are fastened at one side of the front
under row of big fancy buttons.
But however the skirt may be made
there is one thing certain; it will be
short-escaping the ground by an inch or
two. Once again there is a fad for trot-
teur skirts. Women stood the trailing,
tagging directoire skirts with what grace
or it must be confessed usually lack Of
grace-they could muster: but several
ashionable-important enough to be indie
pendent-have Insisted on the comfortable
trotteur skirt for street wear. and woman
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-18

smock has round decolletage and nttia
sleeve and bodies being all in one, with
no shoulder seam The bottom OF tho
smock falls to the knees and below II Is a.
pleated skirt in trotteur length A round
yoke and long sleeves are attached to a
fitted lining, which is entirely separate
from the loose smOck.
r.
Sometimes smock and skirt are OF con-
trasting material. A very pretty little
dress In this style had a smock of silk
cashmere in plain color over a pleated
skirt of checked fabric. bands OF the
checked material edging the short sleeeva
and round neck Of the smock. The yoke
was of Irelande lace, with long sleeves Oh
chiffon matching the color Of the cash.
mere. Cheruit is putting smocks OF chif-
fon over heavy serge frocks: but them
Cheruit can do anything she chooses and
the effect is invariably very charming.
Coming to the topcoats-a most impor-
tant item of tailored wear this fall-one Is
fairly puzzled whether to put ones winter
coat allowance into one of these fetching
and swagger garments, or to purchase the
familiar and always satisfactory two-piece
suit. Happy the woman who may possess
both suit and topcoat, for the latter are
certainly most convenient articles TO own
as we'll as being particularly stunning
in appearance.
Topcoats are shown In all types. from
serviceable. sturdy affairs for rough
weather and motoring to exquisitely
graceful models for limousine wear over
dainty frocks. Coats in both these styles
are shown; one a model Of diagonal serge
with cuffs and lapels Of MORE silk and the
new hip belt, the other a superb Bernard
model of forest green cloth with skunk
bands for trimming and big green buttons
set in black rims-a topcoat that might
well answer for evening wear over theater
gowns.
A Solovici topcoat, also illustrated. Is OF
the rough homespun which Is fecked with
white-a material extremely fashionable
for these heavy coats. This Solovici
model has a panel in three sections at the
back, and two of the sections come around
to the front in wide stitched belts. which
fasten with huge carouncle buttons The
general tone of this homespun coat Is q
tawny smoke color, and the buttons show
deep blue gints, which are matched by
the gray-blue rever facing and cuffs.
Many of the topcoats have a panel OF
pleating set in below the waist at the
back. which seems to foretell indisputably
the coming Of much fuller skirts.