The Washington herald., 1909-07-25


answer any question OF a social nature
that may be submitted. Such ques-
ton should be addressed to The Arbi-
ter, care The Washington Herald
Complaints are abroad, as is usual at
this season OF year, regarding the bills
of-fare at the summer hotels, complaints
that when all is told. are not without
reason. The national love OF pretension
IS responsible for tho elaborate and abb
surd menus that are offered to visitors
at the little inland and seashore villages
that tempt weary workers from the hot
town 10 these hamlets.
The midsummer influx OF city folk 70
the highways and byways Of the country
has converted almost every villager in
New England into a landlord or land
lady, and these worthy hosts. having
relatives in town to whom they have
made occasional visits or being sub
scribers TO a weekly paper. at least, know
TO what their city guests are accustomed
and endeavor 20 give them the same
dishes that they get at the Touraine. the
Waldorf, Sherry's. or some OF the other
places frequented by those with money
and leisure. hence the elaborate bills
without satisfying his appetite.
II is obviously impossible for a host in
town miles away from the railroad and
with no telegraphic facilities, even II
ne had the means. 10 compete with the
purveyors of New York and Boston. but
10 the provincial New England mind
nothing is impossible, and words stand
for much. Merely to read "beefsteak
with mushrooms" printed boldly on the
crossroads menu stimulates the gastric
Juices Of the Inexperienced and unsus-
pecting summer boarder,' but when
that same ''beefsteak and mushrooms"
turns out 10 be a miserable. thin. tough
piece OF overdone meat that might have
come from any old animal, over which
is poured a greasy gravy with two or
three thinly sliced mushrooms to quart.
his confidence is destroyed IN that daz-
zling document forever more.
The chief dishes OF a country are sure
TO be good. The roast beef OF old Eng
land is historic; the made dishes OF the
French, the dainty croouettes and the
savory ragouts. the pot-au-feu OF the
peasants would tempt an anchorite; the
German goose. stuffed with prunes and
apple sauce furnishes a never-to-be-for-
gotten feast. and who has ever eaten
macaroni steaming macaroni, covered
with tomatoe sauce. In Neples and for
gotten the experience?
The delicious breads Of Austria, the
brioche and the caffee brod have made
that country famous. and the goulashes
OF Hungary would tempt an anchorite.
in our own country. there is no fried
chicken in the world that can approach
L. hot nj nT RrFc
old black nanny on a Virginia farm;
limitations OF II are tasteless and flavor
less things. and would not the gods them
selves abandon ambrosia and honey IL
they could be fed on the luscious terrapin
and succulent crab from the Eastern
Sho'?
But all the national dainties did not
originate IN the South. The North has
contributed equally 20 the c0untry's
menu. ones mouth begins TO water at
the remembrance Of the beans and brown
bread TO he had only in the Puritan
stronghold and pie, there is never such
pie as The village houseIeeper OF New
England concocts. lis haky crust, so
delicate and tender with its sweet filings
Of aromatic blueberries, tart and spicy
apples clear. quivering lemon cream
with a mountain of meringue surmounting
the exquisite yellow foundation. that is
the New England pie. and when It is
made by a notable housewife with all
her secret mysteries II would set Pega-
sus himself off on a race TO the stars.
Then there is a clam chowder not the
inslpid chowder Of commerce. but the
rich. thick compound that every fisher
man on the coast can make better than
the highest salaried chef IN Gotham's
most expensive hostelry. and lobster.
and cod, and haddock. and Kennebec
salmon. verify. there Is no end Of good
things in the land Of the Pilgrims. Then
why should Miss Prudence or Miss Pa
tience try 10 dazzle their city visitors with
mere words and decorate their menus
with high-sounding names OF dishes
which they cannot supply.
II the summer hosts would make the
most Of their resources, do the very best
they can with what lies close OF hand
and look to It that their tables are
daintly served, there would be fewer
discontented guests. or course the tact
ful and clever ones have already solved
the problem OF satisfying their summer
visitors Only the other day I had a
midday dinner at a rose-bowered cottage,
presided over by smiling old maid that
would make Sherry look to his laurels
81 the author OF It was near enough to
set herself up as a rival.
To begin with. the table was a marvel
OF daintiness. The linen was spotless,
the glass shining and the quaint, old,
blue china made a pleasing contrast 10
the great bowl OF fragrant blush roses
that occupied the center OF the table.
While the menu furnished all that the
exquisite taste of the table promised.
First, there was steaming chowder
seasoned Just 70 a turn and a grateful
dish to our appetltes. made ravenous by
a long drive over country roads: follow
ing the chowder came a huge platter Of
delicious chicken stew. surrounded with
fluffy dumpllngs covered with gravy that
tasted as those old-fashioned herb gar
dens smell when the wind blows across
them. with this dish were big tender
morrowfat peas, creamed carrots and
mealy potatoes.
We had. indeed. feasted royalty when
this course was finished. and, II we
were TO eat more It would be well, we
admitted. for us TO run around the house.
as we were wont TO do between the
courses Of a Thanksgiving dinner when
we were children in the country, but
Miss Rosalie would give US no tlme and
before we had decided to put our project
into execution she brought in a bowl Of
salad, and such salad! With It were
served homemade cream cheese and thin
slices OF toasted brown bread.
As I ate a vision of the chalet near
Fontainebleau which was once my home.
rose before me and for the moment
thought I was being served by dear, fat,
old Marie with the romaine she had
raised IN own garden. I shall never
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