davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-05-18
The Latest Models In7 dicate the Advent of Smaller Hats mz

1.-THE day of the ''Merry Widow" is done, and the woman who adorned sherseH to the extinction of comfort and feonvenience with a three-fbqt wide hat scan sigh with relief. Dame Fashion sexacfs no longer suffering from her devotees. aThe day of tfe1big hat is done.
 s Of course, the new models, many of them, examples of which are shown on tiis page, do not show any violent break from the last years prevailing styles, but the tendency towards modification of the extremes of style in which we hdulged riotously is plain. Hats, even big hats, are much smaller, and many eal1y small hats are shown. 5. Ian, xa4s Nsxs ,wintsf
 Very small hats, to be sure, are still Dn1y on the distant horizon, but close Sbservers prophecy, that within season we shall see once more the vogue of the small hat sOne- of the most recently imported hats was extremely small, a 4oque as matter of fact, fairly covered with lace and flower trilHming com hined- The trimming wassso arranged that the spectator was decelved in re epect toSsize, and only ep close exami- aations could one observe What distinct dS6&xtuf rom,pfevailinE modes 1t was.
 Qf course, some such change was to 6S 6Sexpecfed-.We have Been running to l3kEe hats for several seasons and I, for one, mast confess am tired of them. They fweres extremely difficult to wear. A Suiall woman always looked like a Christmas tree candle with full-grown snnffef atop, and unless tall woman carried herself well she was more than apt to resemble windmill. Then, too, if ones face were plump or thin, the chances were that the average big hat 1cfed like a microscope on ones facial deficiencies and brought out everything that one wanted left in shadow.
 oIassis Styles Responsible
 That fact, however, could never in duce us to be out of style. While big hats were the thing, we wore them, and if we look back 1t seems to me that we clung to them all the more firmly be- cause we were not convinced of their suitability. The modification in the stvle of gowns induced the change of hats.
 The simplicity of line of the prevail ing modes in gowns made the continued existence of the big hat ridiculous. It was in itself an expression of extreme ornamentation, entirely out of spirit with the classic lines of the spring and summer models.
 The hats shown illustrate the wide variety of styles and treatment favored this pear.
 yaxisty in Trimming
 Lawn and lace seem to be in great favor with the Paris milliners, but 1traws in all varieties of weave and nolor are shown with equal favor.
 The rather small, round brim hat shown is an especially simple and be- roming model. The crown is straw and the brim of wire covered with lace with m mch-wide edge of satin. 'l N
 The little low poke shown is another rery charming model It. is really an sdaptation of the cap the peasant women pf Normandy wear, and the style has Aeen given the name Normandy. The
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-05-18

be likely to break, and it must be tied Tn the needles eye to avoid continual unthreading. The illustrations show the method of using this stitch.
 The stitches are worked in groups of four and across the dividing line be- tween the lace and the lawn, two into the lace and two into the lawn; about one-eighth of an inch is taken up by the needle for each stitch. Make the first stitch from to 3, tie the thread on the under side, and make another stitch through the same holes made by the large needle. It is necessary to take
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-05-18

two stitches from one point to the other, in order to bind the little bundles of threads of the lawn together. Now pass the needle diagonally from to 4 and take two stitches from 2 to 4. Com plete the group with two stitches from } to 4. Next work from 5 to 5, pass the needle under from 3 to 6, work two to 6, continuing in this manner in definitely. A very little practice will make the method quite mechanical Beading Insets
 Most of the French waists are put together with fine Hamburg beading in set in the seams the beading. however.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-05-18

ST arranging copies of those seen on perhaps quite expensive waists.
 The usual method of applying lace is to lay it on the face of the material, then haste at each edge and stitch to the lawn at the basting line. The lawn IS then cut away under the lace, leaving enough edge: at each, side to turn back, when it may be rolled and overhanded ike rolled hem, or turned back flat md secured by a second row of Bfitching.
 rassttins Lscs
 This is the simplest, though not the most artistic way, to apply the lace; ordinary herringbone or fagoting stitch, worked, of course, by hand. Baste the :ntire piece of lawn in which the lace Is to be inset to rather heavy wrapping paper, and baste the lace, in the desired design, through both the lawn and paper. The lawn is then cut on line even with each edge of the lace inser- ton, turned under and pasted; this leaves a space between the lace and stitch is worked to hold the two to- gether. Embroidery cotton is best for his purpose.
 Many of the better class of ready made waists show the lace inset with hemstitching, but on these it is machine work, and there is no attachment for the ordinary household machine by which r may be done. Bsrmuda Fasotlng.
 There is a kind of hanowork, called sonetimes Bermuda fagoting or drawn work, that may be used for this and 1v&,1uv other ornamental OurDoses If =1Feads are actually drawn The mate xszl ;> which it is made must be sheer
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-05-18

mode is very becoming to both small and large faces, but its nature restricts it to more or less festive occasions
 This particular model is created out trimming Is combination of lace and flowers with loops of ribbon. It is one of the most charming models shown, and no woman could fail to look coquet- tish in it. ,,!ls.
 The neck ruching shown with it is a particularly beautiful example of some of the work the best French shops are turning out. The ruche is composed of rosettes of dark satin ribbon with cen tral rosettes of rose-colored ribbon.
 The two central hats in the upper row of the illustration are some of the new shapes Tn straw. The nearer one is of coarse braided straw with very sim pie trimming. This model, by the way, is shown with severely plain tailored gown. The other straw is of chip quality with a rather wide, upturned brim, particularly becoming to. almost any type of face. The crown is made with satin ribbon overlaid with net, and the chief ornament is somewhat broad buckle.
 Dressing the Hair
 The classic trend in costume must naturally be accompanied by the same suggestions throughout the toilet. Hair dressing shows the change most de cidedly. The hair is dressed low, in some instances in the severe Psyche knot, with which some of us were fla miliar probably twenty years ago. Gas sic simplicity applied to the arrangement of the hair, however, requires classic outline of features; so notifications must be arranged to suit irregular fea- lures.
 Small puffs and separate braids make the becoming arrangement of the hair much easier matter than if all ones own hair is used. Except for the grati- hcation of a personal pride, long and thick hair Is more burdensome than necessary. The appropriate hair orna- ments are variations on the ,Grecian illet or suggestions from that source These are readily made on a foundation of ribbon wire, covered with satin or ribbon. The hair is parted and slightly waved on each side, then drawn loosely to the back, where 1t is arranged in two braids that are pinned rather close to
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-05-18
Embroidering Spring and Summer Dresses.
! SIMPLE METHODS OF ESTABLISHING
 REASONABLE GOWNS

and rather fine, that the threads may be drawn closely together. A coarse very fine cotton, about No. 200. The large needle pushes the little punches
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-05-18

OF all the fea-
 lures of the face the eyes re ceive the least care, probably because 1t is believed that little can be done to inn prove their appear ance. This Is a great mistake. An otherwise ugly or plain face can be redeemed by the eyes The cOlOrinP
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-05-18

HE strictly sum-
 mer gown, of lawn or. other trans parent material, that is not inset with lace is the exception rather than the rule, and as the method of application is simple, there IS no reason why one may not follow ones own. fancy in originating designs,
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-05-18

color long after the hair of the head has turned gray. Light and gray eyebrows detract from the appearance, and not only is it justifable to darken them, but it is an easy process, as it can be done with pomade pencils which come for the purpose. It is the only application of color that is in any way an improvement to the face. Some pencil under the lower lid. thinking that it improves the looks They are much deceived. for it face, the same as painting the cheeks or changing the color of the hair.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-05-18
Stimulating the Eyebrows

St1mulat1u& Cn0 EyoDfoWB
 To stimulate the growth of the eye browS, lotion made of five parts of camphor and five parts of tincture of cantharides to fifty parts of cologne would be useful to alternate with the vaseline applications.
 Several correspondents have written me about the dark circles which trouble them under their eyes. Generally, these circles occur as the result of over fatigue. They are more often seen in brunettes, whose small blood-vesse1s which surround the eye must be nearer the surface. I would advise those sub ject to the dark circles to avoid over fatigue. Many are afflicted with puff to inflammation of the lower lid, and pufiness will be greatly benefited by treating the eyes for irritation.
 Massage will help give a tone to. the skin. Lightly smooth the skin, while exerting gentle pressure with the fore finger and middle finger of each hand applied to the corresponding eye. Also rub with circular motion the wrinkles and crow's-feet that come at the corners of the eyes. A few of these movements when washing the face night and morn ing will greatly help to preserve theleyes and to eliminate the wrinkles.
 It is great trial to have to wear eye glasses, but one should not regard them as such, but should be thankful for the perfection to which these aids to the sight have been carried in our day. Women make mistake in trying to put off the time when, owing to their years. they have to wear them. It is very hard on the eyes to go without glasses when they are needed.
 The best beautifer of the eyes is a happy, optimistic nature It gives a brightness and light which nothing else can supply.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-05-18
TO KEEP WAISTS NEAT

My husband gives me the boxes that his shirts come in and label each one, placing in my couch boxes. Waists and dresses are nicely kept in this way with out crushing. a,
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-05-18

A RUsTLEss NEEDLED0oK
 keep my needles in booklets made from the waxed paper that comes around as suggested by correspondent. This keeps them from rusting in damp weather or by the seashore
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1909-08-09
COMPLICATED MARRIAGE.

Mystery deep aud perplexing surrounds
the marital affairs of Miss Carrie Lee
Yerby,o of $40 northTwenty-seventh street.
Announcement OF her marriage in New
York on Saturday afternoon TO Charles
Thwiug, seventy.three years of age, Of
Washington, appeared in yesterdays
papers, while In the SAME issue an advev-
tisement In New York paper announces
her marriage to Joseph Newell Spier, OF
New York, to whom it WAS slstsd that
she was welded on July 5, 1908
Her mother, Mrs. Jane VERIFY, who
lives here at the address given, when In
Ierviewed last night said she knew of the
marriage with ThWing, bnt not from her
daughter. She declared that there was
nothing, so far as she knew, in the pub
lished advertisement of her marriage To
Sper as It appeared in New York paper
yesterday morning. sac admitted, how
ev or, that two years ago, or whereabouts,
Miss VERIFY was engaged to him, and
that it was expected they would be mar
ried. The key to the puzzle evidently
hinges, therefore, on the question why q
marriage solemnized a year or more ago
should have been announced yesterday
one day after the license was issued to
Thwing.
Efforts to uurave the mystery are be-
ing made in New York, but with no sue
C 81 mp to o'clock this morning.
Yesterday mornings issue of The
Times Dispatch contained an account of
the marriage of Miss VERIFY in New
York to Charles Thwing, seventy-three
years old, of BOIL Eleventh street,
Washington. Mr.. ThWing gave his Oc.
cupation as clerk, while bis bride wrote
"spinster'' In the space reserved for
occupations. Her sge was given as
forty-six.
In yesterday Issue of tho New York
Herald appears the following advertise
ment in the marriage columu:
"Spier Yerby-Oo July 5, 1908, Oar
RE Lee VERIFY, Of Richmond, Va, to
Joseph Newell Spisr, Of New York.
Richmond papers please copy"
Miss Yerby's mother, Mrs. Jane Yer
by, was interviewed in her home lest
night. She said that she had heard
from relative in Washington, that her
daughter snd Mr.. Ibsing bad been
married, but that she had received no
announcement, OF the fact from her
daughter. She vas also told that the
compile hsd gone for their bridal trip,
bat was not informed where they went.
Richmond Times-D spstch.
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1909-08-09
VETS GAIN A POINT.

In an exhaustive opinion handed down
on Saturday, Judge Kelly, OF the OOrpo-
ration Court, of Bristol, sustained one
ground of the "wets' " demurrer in the
local option contest case and overruled
another, but declined to dismiss the
"drys' " petition.
The court decided that the treasurer;
certified list of voters could not be gone
b ick of to establish a ground Of contest,
holding that the constitution does mol
give the courts Jurisdiction in such an
instance, except through legislative en-
actmeni, and no such statute now exists.
The contention in the demurrer that
counsel had no authority to sign the
Dames of the petitioners aud that said
petitioners we're required 10 sign In per-
son wss overruled, the court holding
that the statute on thst point was only
directory and not essential.
The treasurer's certified list OF voies
being immune from attack upon the al
legation that many did not pay their
poll taxes In person leaves the "drys"
bat one ground upon which to contest
and that is that nonresidents voted.
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1909-08-09
Turkey and Greece.

OonstAntiuople, Aug AN early
severance of diplomatic relations be,
tween Turkey and Greece is expected
here today as a result of the receipt by
the foreign Office of Gteece'S reply "a
Turkeys ultiustum that Greece rePudi-
ates Orete's efforts TO oecede from Turkey.
Greeco's reply practically repudistes
Turkeys claims by declaring that the
question of Orete's secession is a matter
for other powers to determine.
Proof Of the report that England will
back Turkey 10 the controversy Is
believed here to be accumulstiug.
Euglsnd wants Crete for an English
stronghold, from which strategic P lot
she can control the route to lndis.
For this very reason the other powers
will likely line up in favor OF Greece ia
order to checkmate England.
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1909-08-09
Murdered In Cemetery.

Rochester, N. Y, Aug. "a
battling murder mystery was uneaithed
here today when the body OF Miss Anna
Schumacher, aged II, who has been
missing since Saturday, was found 10 8
lonely spot in Holy Sepulcher GENE
terry. The girl had been beaten to death
with heavy stone, which was found BY
her head. She had been assaulted be-
fore death. The girl visited the GENE
terry Saturday, morning to place flowers
on her fathers grave aud In lonely
part of the grounds was attacked oy an
unknown assailsnt. That the glrl
fought desperately for her honor and hel
life was shown by the signs OF struggle
about the place where the girl was at
tackled
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1909-08-09
Sec nd hOOr-G st.
Case, to be Dropped.

New York, Aug. 9.-ls Is proosole
that Mira. Neville CASTLE, the western
woman, who shot William b. Craig, AT
torney, in the elevator at the WALDORF
Astoria last week, will never be brought
to trial. When the case was called be-
fore Magistrate Butts in JeiierSon
Market Court this morning, MIS-
Castles attorney, Emil Fuchs asked Tor
further postponement until tomorrow,
promising the magistrate that 81 .nS'
time Mrs. Castle would waive Prellm-
mary hearing and consent to be held
on bail for tie grand jury. Capt. ID.
Fl. Scott, u. s. A appeared in court
with his sister, Mrs. CASTLE.
1t is hardly likely that Craig Will aP'
pear az a witness before the grand Jury,
but will allow the case to eud there. his
action in getting a boudsman for MRS
CASTLE presssged such q move on h''
part. The charges Mrs. Castles tor
neys threatened to bring against OIall
are to be dropped, and the case ended
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1909-08-09
Mr.. RooIexelt,s Movement

Naiyasha. Briii,h Esst Africa, Aug. o.
Col. Theodore Roosevelt babe farewell to
Naivasha today and set ont for Kenia TO re-
suIne his big game hunting Kermit Roose-
welt and Prof. Edmund Heller accompanied
the colonel Msjor Mearns and Professor
Loring will remain here a few days to COM
plete the work of preparing specimens for
shipment, when they will set out, each with
a separate band Of Safari for Keniet in
search Of some of the rare birds of
that section. A second shipment Of spec
mems will be made on August 10 when the
Admiral, the same ship that brought Colonel
Roosevelt to Africa, will carry to the Medit-
errsBean big consignment of specimens, in
Gliding several Of the hippOpOtimi killed in
the Lake Naivasha region. Tie specimens
will be taken direct to the Smithsonian Inst-
tuta
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1909-08-09
The Detroit murder Mystery.

Detroit, Mich, Aug. 9.-The body
of an unidentified woman, fonnd aP.
parently murdered in "Robbers Hole"
Is being sui jected to further examination
today 10 40 effort to establish the man
per Of her death. Many bruises have
been discovered about the head and face,
but physicians have not been abe to de-
termine the cause of death as yet.
Identification is made exceedingly diff
ficuIt owing to the condition OF the body
and the lack OF clues. She was about
80 years old and the only evidence Of
her identity is a handkerchief marked
ok"
Detroit, Mich Aug. 9.--Fred Gala
ban today went to the morgue and identl'
fled the woman whose body WAS found In
"Robber's Hole" as that of his wife
80 years old. He is positive she Wa'
mu rdered and declares her life had beer
threatened several times since their mar
rlsge by an ex-conviet who was formerly
ia love with her. He declares that sh'
paid no attention to the man.
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1909-08-09
MONDAY EVENING AUGUST 9, 1909.

ONLY mortgages made directly 10
trust companies Offering them can by &C.
copied by the New York superintendent
of banks as part of the security required
from trust companies receiving deposits
of money in trust This is the SUD-
stsnce of decision rendered last week
at Albany by Justice Fits, OF the Ne"
York Supreme Court. The banking
law provides that companies OF the klnd
mentioned must keep on deposit ~ith
the superintendent of banks securities al
all times equal TO 10 per cent OF their
capital stock, and II doing business In
New York city, TO An amount not less tnsD
500 900. The Central Trust Company
ot New York offered as part OF The Secur'
ily REQUIRED to be deposited by it mort
cage which had been originally made 10
another company and had been assigned
nv the latter to the trust company. Ihe
sunerIntendent OF banks declined TO re-
ceive the mOrtsge IS part of the required
security, and the trust company applied
for writ Of maudamus to compel him
to accept it. The attorney general con-
tended that the mortgage not having
been made originally to the trust com
pany. did not comply with the require
menls of section 10 of the banking law
and Justice Fits sustained his conten
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1909-08-09
Conditions In Stockholm

Stockholm, Aug. 9.-StOckholm
was without newspapers today, the re
salt of the printers joining the strike
Yesterday. Most of the newspaper
offices issued small bulletins during the
day, which we're set up by printers not
belonging to the union.
Several factories that we're idle the
latter half OF last week resumed work to-
day. Street cars are again running on
almost regular schedule.
Despite the tying up OF the news
paper Offices, there are many indlcs-
lions today of an early end to the strike.
The leaders ATE making valiant effort
to stop dtsertiors from the sriktrs'rspks
and several serious clashes bttHeen the
strikers themselves have resulted
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1909-08-09
The President az Beverly.

Beverly, Mass, Ang. 9 President
Taft got down to work today at the
Evans cottage which will be the sum-
mer White House for the Dext five
weeks. Ia company with Secretary
Carpenter he went over large bundle
of correspondence that The latter brought
over from he executive Cfices at the
village. After hearing a number Of
letters read and and debating many
more, and afixing his signature to a
number of commissions and executive
orders, the presiden. seized his golf
sticks ard started for the Essex County
Cla6 golf links where be will play this
morning with w. K. Boardmsn, John
Hays Hammond and his elder sod,
Robert.
Alexandria gazette. [volume] (Alexandria, D.C.) 1834-1974, 1909-08-09

THERE was a great rush OF importing
merchants in New York, Phlladelphi'
and other cities to get their wooden
goods and other textile fabrics, includ-
ing silks AID hosiery with many Other
articles, though the custom before the
Presidents signature was affixed to the
fatal tariff. At the same time goods &c
the value of millions were taken out Of
bonded warehouses to escape payment Of
the increased duties. Not less thsn
twenty-five or thirty Oceau-goipg steam
ers laden with goods arrived Friday Jus'
in time to be too late. Such 10 the sp'
swer of the business world TO the pleas
that this is a downward revision OF the
tariff. Were the duties reduced, as it,
authors pretend, the importing mer-
chants would have waited to the las
hour in order to obtain advantage OF thu
reductions.