The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1909-10-22
Calling and Recei wing Costumes
BY ~MADEMOIsELLE MISFIT.

d, coats have gaily embroidered waist
coats, and almost invariably there are
the snowy Louis XIV frills of lace fall
ing from the cuffs and arranged in ia
! bot style down the front.
Over a frock of brown satin cloth
and chiffon shown at a recent Fifth
avenue opening was ii delightful Louis
coatee of bronze velvet, embroidered
; all over with tiny clusters of blue for
get-me-nots and pink rOsebuds. Could
ANYTHING be more suggestive of the
frivolous Louis period, when lie mar
quis, as well as Ia marquise. could
revel in embroidered garments and
flmy sleeve frills?
The little embroidered velvet coat
opened over a gold lace Waistcoat and
. above this showed the cream lace jabot
and high stock of the bodice, a pert
DOW Of bronze velvet being set at the
front of the stock. the top layer Of the
lace jabot tumbling over it. Even the
frocks show these jabots, over which
there is a perfect craze just now. Sol
Of them are merely tWo-inch pleatings
of net or chitfn: sometimes the pleat-
ings are wider and there are two in
contrasting color, a pleating OF chiffon
to match the bodice being laid over
white ruching. The little bow is also
usually seen set directly in ron or a
little to one side of the jabOt, and this
bit of dark color-for the bow always
matches the frock material or is OF
black-gives a charming touch of chic.
Another costume having one Of these
bobbed-off coatees was OF black polka
dotted velvet, the coat being of plain
black velvet with cuffs. collar and re
vers of the dotted velvet and Il coat
lining of polka-dotted satin exactly
matching the velve in pattern. This
costume was simple in line. the elc-
gance of the material being its chief
claim to distinction: but the eye was
attracted instantly to a touch of vivid
flame color. introduced by a shaped
motif of satin appliqued on the yoke
Of tucked black chiffon. this little yoke
being set in the V-shaped space at the
top OF the velvet bodice.
Striped Velvet Once More in Favor,
4 Paris gown shows the revived ia
vor for striped velvet, this own being
of marine blue velvet with a gray-blue
stripe. The material is cut in dag
to the figure. Cheruit adores these Vd
effects and introduces them wherever
she can. The braided motifs IN this
! velvet gown are lone with gray blue
and silver soutache IN marine blue |
chiffon, the motifs being set into rath- |
er thar over the velvet. 1t Will be not
ed that the arrangements OF these mo-
tifs at the meeting of bodice and skirt |
gives the effect of a separate waist |
and skirt-the correct notion now.
In fact the one-piece costume is no /,
longer ultra correct: all the French |
gowns having bodices made quite sep |
arately from the skirts-a fact quite
evident at some of the openings, when
the costumes are donned hastily by
the manikins for exhibition. and one
notes again the familiar and deplorable
hiatus between skirt belt and bodice
edge.
The Louis XVI frock will interest
every woman because of its radical
difference from last years style. This
pretty costume has all the earmarks
of the new Louis mode. Two fabrics in
combination are used, the p%etticoat be-
ing of pinkish gray permo fabric IN
frou-frou length, and the overdress.
which is draped back to show the pet
ticoat. being of taffeta silk in change
able pink and gray effect Skirt and
bodice-as has been said-'are separate
in this costume, the fiat girdle-anosher
detail of the new style-being attached
to the edge of the bodice This girdle
fastens at one sic OF the back with a.
pinkish gray shell clasp. Pearly tints
like those in the Vatican PAINTINGS viii
be repeated in the costumes of the
Louis mode, and rosy pinks, forget
me-not blues and opalescent grays