Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-12-23

NEW AOhh, December 22.-The most striking characteristic of the win ter fashions is the splendor and exqui- site beauty of the materials used. The most gorgeous silks, velvets, woolens, hrocades, gold and silver fabrics, gauges and furs enter into the making of cos tunes for gala occasions and even or dlnary costumes are made of richer ma terials than in former seasons. Velvet is used extensively, even for the sim pleSt tailored dresses. These gowns may have either long or short coat, and one coat may do duty with both short skirt and long trained gown, though the trailing gown looks better with long than a short coat.
 Bands of fur are used to trim the edge of the skirt, even of the short walking skirt, although for the latter this fur trimming is not to be reeom- mended, as it makes the walk of the wearer awkward. However, fashion de. crees that the very smartest walking frocks shall display this trimming to- gether with collar and cuffs of fur. Long skirted velvet costumes seldom are trimmed in this way. The skirts are either quite plain or the band of fur starts at the knees in front and gradu- ally slopes down at the back. Many of these velvet costumes display masses of braiding and embroidery in the self tone usually on the skirts of the coat or on the bodies of the gown. Some extreme 0v pretty short frOcks of velvet are shown with this sort of trimming.
 There will be many short evening trocks made this winter and, curiOusly enough, while such frOcks are becoming shorter, evening cloaks are growing in length, so that, when the skirt is short, if will simply disappear under the cloak. For these evening cloaks charmeuse is greatly to the fore, while other forms of satin and fine supple velvets are used in a lesser degree and generally with the softening tone of fur, the en- rlching note of embroidery and a con trasting lining
 There seems to be little doubt that coats are growing shorter. Already one begins to see tentative models in the domestic ready made garments, but they are as yet too uncertain to be very at tractive. The imported models are an entirely different story, for it is seen at once that the perfect line in the short coat which follows the figure rath- CT closely is of first importance. The long straight coat did not present the same narrowing problems. The Russian 0Iouse coats also have their doubtful qualities and perhaps they are not des- ,ued to wide popularity, except with fine youthful and those who are elinging to youth with desperate grasp.
 rTHaVn ,.,,Iall To ghprgn frnY,, in the Russian blouse, the genuine blouse
 full, rather shapeless and belted care ..-sly below the waist, and the trim type, the upper part of which fits to the figure, except for the slight blouse the tight fitting girdle, and is finished by a close fitting long or medium length "pat skirt. The second type is the only u0ssible one for the average wearer but rather ordinary~loOking while the first, which is thoroughly smart, can be worn by no one but an extremely slen- ""r, pretty girl.
 of course, the point of really vital interest in the short coats and Russian 'ouse effects is the basque motif, which apparently slowly but surely advanc- ing. This is to be expected, after the long period of suppressed hips the world of fashion has been passing through.
 Two furs in combination are the fad ust now and very handsome effects are obtained by bordering a short-haired prt with one that has long, fluffy fur. Sealskin and skunk is a particularly lashionable combination and some of he most elegant coats that come from ne hands of the French furriers are of sealskin with deep lapels, collar and ruifs of skunk. BrOadtail and skunk are also very smart, and, indeed, skunk is used with everything in Paris now, nlny of the chiffon evening costumes Icing trimmed with narrow border
 ands of this fur. Ermine and white fox is another fashionable fur combina. ion, but exceedingly expensive. The
 spotted, or tailless ermine is the par
 .ular fancy of the moment.
 Those who cannot afford ermine even. "g coats, may choose white coney, which, when trimmed with collars and cliTs of white fox, is extremely beauti- ful and rich in effect. These dainty white furs are, of course, intended only Tor evening wear. Though ermine is to