The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1909-10-16

difficulties to the home dress
u maker than does any other
part of the garment. Very often the
blouse or gown turned out by the
amateur is spoiled by the sleeve on ac-
count of it's unsuitability to the rest of
the garment in question or because 1t
is not well made. The perfect sleeve
is by no means easy to contribute, but
if you are fortunate enough to hit
upon an attractive design and procure
a paper pattern of the same the rest
is plain sailing. The only trouble is that
in these days of quick changing odes
the fashion makers no sooner launch
style than they evidently think II over
and wonder IL they hadn't letter
change their minds after all. OF course
the sleeves are long now-everybody
knows that-but are they going to stay
long? That's the question And one
wonders whether tits better to suftcr
the Observation-Disclosures of TIE long
manche all summer or to take arms
no pun intended-against this sea of
trouble and by opposing againFt 1t the
three quarter sleeve end It. The
French modistes are saying to them
selves that long sleeves are monoto-
nous, just as If they hadn't thought OF
1t before. So they are already talking
of a compromise. three-Quarter
sleeve with a dainty little undersleeve
of tucked net or batiste going the rest
of the way to the wrist is what they
are talking about now. The idea is
not bad one, and such a sleeve is 50
much cooler and more seasonable for
warm weather. Speaking of Paris, the
air at the gay capital is charged with
rumors at this minute that twelve yard
skirts, panniers and sleeves held out
with stiff interlining that are little
short of cages are at the door await
ing an opportunity to display them
selves. If they are there 1t will only
take a pleasant race day to disclose
them. But here in America we will
not feel their influence, IL at all, until
late in the summer or in the fall. To
return to the sleeve of the present,
when undecided as to what shape the
sleeve shall be in light summer frock
choose the small leg of mutton. II the
material is very sheer the little full
ness this model displays at the top is
not only agreeable. but positively a
charity when the shoulders OF the
wearer are contracted and the arms OF
the proverbial broomstick build.
For the shirt waist the small bishop
is always safe selection, ana IT may
be either long or three-quarter length
All over embroidery sleeves should be
cut with one seam. The button and
loops give the tight fit at the wrist and
should be placed on this seam and not
on the outer edge of the arm.
BY the way. the girl who is pos
sessed of blouse with an old fash
Toned full sleeve will find that she can
make 1t quite fashionable by gathering
IT at the elbow and adding tight up
per sleeve of material to match her
skirt, that reaches almost to the ell
bow, the fabric being cut so that the
outer part OF the arm is covered, and
just above the elbow It Is cut on the
inside to give the appearance OF a
buckle. If band of the same material
is prettily fitted into girdle with this
alteration to the sleeve and the add
ton of bretelles to the blouse the ANA
teur may turn an unsmart blouse and
skirt into an UP to date complete
frock. The idea of the bretelle. some
reader may say, smacks OF the styles
of last summer, but can assure this
skeptical seamstress that some of the
best frocks Of the season are made In
this cooperative fashion, and with
coats to match one gets the effect OF
an up to date jumper dress. The ad-
vantage of such a costume IL that
when is too warm and finds even the
bretelles a burden they can be pealeo
off, and an attractive belt covers the
waistband of the frock, and with coat
one has a complete suit or without 1t
a separate skirt and blouse.
To continue the sleeve talk a mo-
ment longer, a charming design for
sleeve of foulard, sole de chine or any
of the soft unwashable materials Of
the season is made with nine deep
tucks or folds, each one of which Is
caught at the ed~e by a fancy button
deep pointed cuff coming well over
the back of the hand forms a delight
full finish, and this. of course, Is COM
posed Of lace or embroidery to cor
respond with the trimming on the rest
Of the dress.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
New York.