davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08

IS machine-made, and there are several handstitches that may be used for this purpose that will be in greater harmony with hand-worked waist The sim plest of these connecting stitches Is the well-known herringbone or fagoting stitch. When used in the manner sug gcsted 1t will better occupy the space if two rows are worked, in precisely the same manner, the stitches of the second row being taken into the material at the right-hand side of those of the first row. This stitch IS worked from left to right Both sections of the material should be pasted to rather stiff paper, keeping the space between an even width
 There is another variation of the fagoting stitch. The first row IS worked in the usual manner and from left to right. When 1t is completed, the work IS held so the open space forms a yer tical line, running toward the worker, and two buttonhole stitches are taken on the two threads at each loop of the fagoting stitch.
 New Buttonhole Stitch
 The buttonhole stitches seen illus trated show a rather more unusual method of joining a seam. It Is neces- sary to turn the work, having first one edge, then the other. toward the worker as each group of stitches IS made. The heavy knot at the edge of each stitch Is made by passing the thread that hangs from the eye of the needle after 1t is inserted in the cloth, under the DOint III fie ObbOSife dirrcfiOu from that in which the thread comes from the last stitch In the illustration the end of thread that comes from the eye IS passed under the point from right to left. When the work IS turned to work the group of stitches on the other edge, the thread from the. last stitch will come from the right, so the end from the eye should be passed under the point from left to right This will be found an effective stitch that may have a variety of uses and may be worked in threads of various weights.
 Worked on tan linen with heavy white lustre thread, it will have an excellent effect, and may be used in place of other insertion in the waist. 'u Ai
 For infants slips and everyday dresses, particularly these fancy stitches, as they are called, are well adapted, Elaborate trimmings of lace and em- broidery are out of place on these little garments, but as one does not want | them all absolutely plain, the fancy | stitches provide ornamentation that IS suitably unobtrusive and quite in keep ing with the dainty character of the little dresses.
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08
STITCHES USED IN TREATING THE SUMMER GOWN

two stitches from one point to the other in order to bind the little bundle o' threads of the lawn together. Now pass the needle diagonally from I to 1 and take two stitches from to 4. Com plete the group with two stitches from 3 to 4. Next work from } to 5, pass the needle under from } to 6, work two stitches from 4 to 6, then two from : to 6, continuing in this manner in definitely. A very little practice will make the method quite mechanical. / Beading Insets
 Most of the French waists are put together with fine Hamburg beading in set in the seams; the beading. however.
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08
Dressing the Hair /

The classic trend in costume must naturally be accompanied by the same suggestions throughout the toilet Hair dressing shows the change most de- cidedly. The hair is dressed low, in some instances in the severe Psyche knot, with which some of us were ia miliar probably twenty years. ago. Gas sic simplicity applied to the arrangement of the hair, however, requires classic outline of features; so notifications must be arranged to suit irregular fea- lures
 Small puffs and separate braids make the becoming arrangement of the hair much easier matter than if all ones own hair IS used Except for the grati- hcation of a personal pride, long and thick hair IS more burdensome than necessary. The appropriate hair orna- ments are variations on the Grecian fllet or suggestions from that source. These are readily made on a foundation of ribbon wire, covered with satin or ribbon The hair is parted and slightly waved on each side, then drawn loosely to the back, where 1t IS arranged in two braids that are pinned rather close to
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08
Stimulating the Eyebrows

To stimulate the growth of the eye brows, a lotion made of five parts of camphor and five parts of tincture of cantharides to fifty parts of cologne would be useful to alternate with the vaseline applications.
 Several correspondents have written fle about the dark circles which trouble them under their eyes Generally, these circles occur as the result of over fatigue They are more often seen in brunettes, whose small blood-vessels which surround the eye must be nearer the surface 1 would advise those sub ject to the dark circles to avoid over fatigue Many are afflicted with puff ness under the eyes This is often due to inflammation of the lower lid. and puhiness will be greatly benefited by treating the eyes for irritation.
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08
kassaging the Eyes

Massage will help give a tone to the skin. Lightly smooth the skin, while exerting gentle pressure with the fore finger and middle finger of each hand applied to the corresponding eye Also rub with circular motion the wrinkles and crow's-feet that come at the corners of the eyes. A few of these movements when washing the face night and morn ing will greatly help to preserve the eyes and 10 eliminate the wrinkles.
 It is great trial to have to wear eye glasses. but one should not regard them as such, but should be thankful for the perfection to which these aids to the sight have been carried in our day. Women make a mistake in trying to pit of the time when, owing to their years, they-have to wear them. It IS very hard on the eyes to go without glasses when they are needed.
 The best beauti6er of the eyes is a happy. optimistic nature. It gives a brightness and light which nothing else can supply.
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08

of threads together, and the fine cotton is bound around them-hence the name fagot- stitch, as it recalled to the mind of the worker the tying together of bundles of fagots.
 To prepare for insetting the lace in this manner, haste it through the centre, to the lawn and paper, as in the pre- vious method; mark on the lawn with a pencil, very lightly, where the edge of the lace comes. Cut the lawn under the lace and turn it back so its fold edge is even with the edge of the lace, but with no space between. Tie a short end of thread into the eye of the needle. AS the thread is very fine it is better not to use a long end that will
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08

be likely to break, and it must be tied in the needles eye to avoid continual unthreading The illustrations show the method of using this stitch.
 The stitches are worked in groups of four and across the dividing line be- tween the lace and the lawn, two into the lace and two into the lawn; about one-eighth of an inch is taken up by the needle for each stitch Make the first stitch from to 3, tie the thread on the under side, and make another stitch through the same holes made by the large needle. It is necessary to take
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08

color long after the hair of the head has turned gray. Light and gray eyebrows detract from the appearance, and not only IS it justifable to darken them. but 1t IS an easy process, as 1t can be done with pomade pencils which come for the purpose. It IS the only application of color that Is in any way an improvement to the face. Some pencil under the lower lid. thinking that it improves the looks. They are much deceived. for it gives a very artificial appearance to the face, the same as painting the cheeks or changing the color of the hair.
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08

mode is very becoming to both small and large faces, but its nature restricts it to more or less festive occasions.
 This particular model IS created out of very fine lawn inset with lace The trimming is a combination of lace and flowers with loops of ribbon It is one of the most charming models shown. and no woman could fail to look coquet- tish in it.
 The neck ruching shown with it is a particularly beautiful example of some of the work the best French shops are turning out The ruche is composed of rosettes of dark satin ribbon with cen tral rosettes of rose-colored ribbon.
 The two central hats in the upper row of the illustration are some of the new shapes in straw. The nearer one is Of coarse braided straw with very sim pie trimming This model, by the way, is shown with severely plain tailored gown. The other straw is of chip quality with a rather wide, upturned brim, particularly becoming to almost any type of face. The crown is made with satin ribbon overlaid with net. and the chief ornament is a somewhat broad buckle
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08

of the eyes, like that of the hair, is made 10 match the complexion. and every one should believe the funda- mental fact that the color of the eyes which he or she has IS just the right thing.
 However, the effect of the color of the eyes can be greatly enhanced by the color of the dress or accessories worn around the face Experiment with silks or ribbons and find what IS your color. Brown eyes are helped by shades of brown and yellow; blue eyes with ccr- tain shades of blue; but one must bear in mind that 1t IS not every shade of the blue or the brown that helps ac- centuate the color of the eyes, for some will deaden their color and take all brightness and expression from them. Matching the Color of the Eye
 This is especially the case with blue eyes Those who make a study of ap- pearance should never forget to put near the face, so that the eyes will re- fleet 1t, just that shade of coloring which will bring out that of the eyes.
 The whites of the eyes should be of clear blue whiteness, and the blood vessels should not Show. When they do. it means an inflammation of the delicate cobweb tissue which covers the whites of the eyes and lines the lids. When the eyes are strained by over work, or the use of wrong glasses, this membrane becomes infamed, and its tiny vessels enlarge If the inhamma- ton occurs often or continues for a long time. 1t is difficult to ever restore them again to a condition where they will not show.
 Bathe the Eyes Frequently
 Those who have a tendency to this should find out the cause, so as to correct it in order to have fine looking eyes, and what Is more, useful
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08

or arranging copies of those seen on perhaps quite expensive waists
 The usual method of applying lace IS to lay it on the face of the material, pin it into the desired position or design, then haste at each edge and stitch to the lawn at the basting line. The lawn is then cut away under the lace, leaving enough edge at each side to turn back, when it may be rolled and overhanded like rolled hem, or turned back flat and secured by a second row of stitching.
 tnsetting Lace
 This is the simplest, though not the most artistic way, to apply the lace; ; another method IS to inset it with the ordinary herringbone or fagoting stitch, worked, of course, by hand. Baste the entire piece of lawn in which the lace IS 10 be inset to rather heavy wrapping paper, and haste the lace, in the desired design, through both the lawn and paper. The lawn is then cut on line even with each edge of the lace inser- leaves a space between the lace and lawn, across which the herringbone stitch is/ worked to hold the two to- gether Embroidery cotton IS best for this purpose.
 Many of the better class of ready made waists show the lace inset with hemstitching, but on these it IS machine work. and there is no attachment for the ordinary household machine by which it may be done.
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08
The Eyes as an Aid to Beauty
METHODS OF DEVELOPING AND CARING FOR THE FINAL POINT OF ATTRACTVENESS IN
 A WOMAN'S FACE

OF all the fea- V lures of the face the eyes re- ceive the least care, probably because it IS believed that little can be done to im- prove their appear ance. This is a great mistake. An otherwise ugly or plain face can be redeemed by the eyes. The colOring
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08
Embroidering Spring and Summer Dresses.
SIMPLE METHODS OF ESTABLISHING
 REASONABLE GOWNS

and rather fine, that the threads may be drawn closely together. A coarse needle, No. or No I, is used with very fine cotton, about No. 200. The large needle pushes the little punches
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08

be prettily and naturally arranged in the coronct way. The hair is parted in the centre and combed loosely toward the back, lifting 1t little from the neck toward the crown of the head. It is loosely tied, then divided, and the ends
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08
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 nse@ H1
The Latest Models h. dicate the Advent of Smaller Hats

THE day of the Merry Widow" i
 done, and the woman who adorned herself to the extinction of comfort anC convenience with a three-foot wide ha can sigh with relief. Dame Fashior exacts no longer suffering from heI devotees. The day of the big hat i done.
 Ot course, the new models. many O them, examples of which are shown or this page, do not show any violent breal from the last years prevailing styles but the tendency towards modification of the extremes of style in which wt indulged riotously is plain. Hats, ever big hats, are much smaller, and many really small hats are shown.
 Small Hats Next Winter
 Very .sirall hats, to be sure. are stil only on the distant horizon. but close observers prophecy that within a season we shall see once more the vogue of the small hat One of the most recently imported hats was extremely small, a toquc as a matter of fact, fairly covered with lace and flower trimming com bined. The trimming was so arranged that the spectator was deceived in re- spect to size, and only on close exami- nation could one observe what a distinct departure from prevailing modes 1t was.
 Or course, some such change was to be expected. We have been running to large hats for several seasons and l, for one, must confess 1 am tired of them. They were extremely difficult to wear A small woman always looked like a Christmas tree candle with a full-grown snuffer atop, and unless a tall woman carried herself well she was more than apt to resemble windmill. Then, too, if ones face were plump or thin, the chances were that the average big hat deficiencies and brought out everything tl9t one wanted left in shadow. Classic Styles Responsible
 That fact. however, could never in duce us to be out of style While big hats were the thing. we wore them, and II we look back it seems to me that we clung to them all the more firmly be- cause we were not convinced Of their suitability. The modification in the style of gowns induced the change of >hats.
 The simplicity of line of the prevail ing modes in gowns made the continued existence of the big hat ridiculous It was in itself an expression of extreme ornamentation, entirely out of spirit with the classic lines of the spring and summer models
 The hats shown illustrate the wide variety of styles and treatment favored this year.
 Variety in Trimming
 Lawn and lace seem to be i'll great favor with the Paris milliners, but straws in all varieties of weave and color are shown with equal favor
 The rather small, round brim hat shown is an especially simple and be- coming model. The crown IS straw and the brim Of wire covered with lace with an inch-wide edge of satin
 The little low poke shown IS another very charming model. It is really an of the cap the peasant women | of Normandy wear, and the style has | been given the name Normandy. The
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08

the head. The fllet crosses the front of the head, rather like a coronet braid, and ends with large ribbon rose at each side
 In more nearly pure Grecian ar rangement the hair is slightly waved and built out at the back in closely placed puffs. Satin ribbon. about an inch and one-quarter wide, IS woven in and out the hair and trick of the hair dressers to facilitate this is 10 wind a piece of wire Ia fine wire hairpin will dol around one end Of the ribbon. making 1t possible to thread it in and out after the hair IS dressed, without fear Of disarranging it.
 With the French people-past-mastcrs of detail-millinery and hairdress;ng are most closely connected, and each must have a fairly good knowledge of the others art.
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08

THE strictly sum-
 mer gown, of lawn or other trans parent material, that is not inset with lace is the exception rather than the rule, and as the method of application is simple, there is no reason why one may not follow ones own fancy in
 1z--
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08
TO KEEP WAISTS NEAT

My husband gives me the boxes that his shirts come in and label each ono. placing in my couch boxes. Waists and dresses arc nicely kept in this way with out crushing.
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08

The coronet Arrangement
 The coronet arrangement, with the ends of the hair curled, Is a valuable suggestion, whether one has little or much hair The least wisps of hair may
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08
Caring fot the Eyebrows

Carl1S TOT the EyeproWS
 The eyelashes and eyebrows nexi come up for consideration. The eve lashes are bound to be scanty and strag- gling and uneven if the lids are in famed This is the primary cause of most of the poor growth of lashes. Examine the eyelids. and ii they are red and infamcd take the measures to re lieve this inflammation.
 Many times one or two hairs will grow in toward the eyeball; these will cause great irritation and should be re- moved by means of pincers. Clip the ends of the lashes with fine curved scis- sors. It is difficult to do this for ones self, and it must be very carefully done not to cut them too much. Vaseline IS excellent to promote the growth of the lashes and the eyebrows.
 One cannot do much to promote the outward curve of the lashes, which is the desirable way to have them grow, but with the fingers one can shape the eyebrows. If the hairs grow out of the proper line or become coarse and long, thev can be removed with tweezers. The hair of the eyebrows retains the
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08

A RUoILEc5 NEEDLEbUUh
 I keep my needles in booklets made from the waxed paper that comes around crackers, instead of using machine oil, 7s suggested by correspondent. This cops them from rusting in damp ,cather or by the scashore.
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08
Bermuda Fagoting

There is a kind of han6work, called sometimes Bermuda fagoting or drawn work, that may be used for this and many other ornamental purposes. It closely initiates drawnwork, though no threads are actually drawn. The mate riafin which it is made must be sheer
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08

eyes. Avoid eye strain, from too long use in bad light Avoid the strain that comes from wearing heavily dotted veils, or those with intricate meshes, which try the eyes and destroy their looks more than women realize.
 It strengthens the eyes very much to bathe them either in very hot water or in very cold. Better yet IS to take pieces of absorbent cotton rounded and made into little pads to fit the eyes, dip them in ice water and place them on the lids, changing them as they become hot After few minutes of such treatment the eyes will feel comforted and relieved to a great degree.
 This is especially grateful to the eyes after riding in the wind or after having been subjected to the dust and cinders of railway or the glare of bright re- factions on the water when on a boat. Those who have a tendency to weak eyes should daily use an eye-cup. in which IS placed some water slightly salted, or a boracic acid solution. The saturated solution diluted one-half is generally the best, and should be made fresh for each eye The eve should be opened and shut in the solution half a dozen times or more, so that 1t will thoroughly bathe the eycball as well as the lids.
Arizona republican., 1909-05-08
Bathe the Eyes Frequently

Those who have a tendency to this inflammation should find out the cause, so as to correct it in order to have fine looking eyes, and what Is more, useful
The labor argus. [volume] (Charleston, W. Va.) 1906-1915, 1909-09-02
1.-The Final Settlement"

1t is doubtful if a more virile, inter
esting and realistic drama depicting life
among certain portion of a social class
of Americans, whose sole claim to recog-
milton is riches suddenly and question
ably acquired, than the new drama by
Lem B. Parker, entitled ''The Final Set
tlcment,'' which will be the attraction at
the Burlew next Monday. In writing it,
the author bore in mind but one require
ment; the necessity for pure, whole
some story of convicting power and posi-
tive appeal to the best emotions. That
he has succeeded is established fact,
and the best evidence is the favors with
which the play has been received every
where it has been produced. The play
tells story of a woman s selfsacrifice
for an unworthy man, drawn forth by the
master emotion of the world, Love. 1t
shows the highest principle moral can
command, Duty About and around the
central theme, is woven mass of bril-
liant action and situations and climaxes
which is irresistible in its appeal to the
better spirit of mankind. 1t is simple,
strong, human story of a phase of life
that is becoming only too common place
in this age of ours, and is a success be
cause it is true and faithful, and touches
only upon the best instincts of men and
women, it is pleasing because it reaches
a heart string that is always ready to re,
spond to the properly attuned touch.
To all lovers of pure ard good in the
drama, the production cannot fail to
prove one of the dramatic treats of the
season MANAGER CLAY T Vance prom
ises a strong presenting company and a
scenic and costume environment conss
tent with so ambitious production.
The labor argus. [volume] (Charleston, W. Va.) 1906-1915, 1909-09-02

SCOUNDREI
<1Independent American Citizen"
one of Heroes of Elliot Strike
breaking Fame Ruins Young
Women Core Makers.

The following excerpt is taken from an
article appearing in the Scrantonian of
Scranton, Pa. 1t requires no comment
as it speaks plainly and directly for it
self:
''Thomas PropSt, foreman of the core
department of the Scranton Steam Pump
Co., at Green Ridge, has left the city
There are stories told o. his conduct that
to say the least, put him in the category
of undesirable citizens, and it is alleged
that his departure is due entirely to the
fact that he was in the habit of Turing
young girls to the companys Offices for
immoral purposes.
1.-The watchnlan at the plant reported
him to his superiors, and his discharge
followed Since then it is understood
that he is employed in Connellsville, Pa.
where the Manufacturers Association
control foundry
LAS a sample of the Independent
American citizen who works when his fel
low man is on strike for better condi
tions. and toadies to the smile of the
manufa facturer. Propst also has another
record.
Although a molder whose religious
scruples would not permit him to join {
labor union, he has not always worked
at that business.
During the strike of the ice men IL
Wilkesbarre he worked in the capacity OF
4 strikebreaker-
'.When the Scranton Steam PumI
Company could not secure men to worl
at the starvation wages they offered 70,
making cores during the strike, the,
hired corps of young women, ant