davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1909-05-08

feet aimed at. If guimpe is used at all
it is of the sheerest fabric or of tucked
net. stretched over the neck to look as
nearly as possible like the skin itself.
It seems as though the Paris dressmak-
ers had gone daft over buttons. That SEQ
buttons is not considered too many for a
single gown by these button maniacs was
evidenced by a costume which formed the
center of attraction at the recent dress
makers convention in Chicago. BY ac-
tual count there were half thousand but
tons on this particular creation. They
went up the front and down the back and
crossed diagonally over the bust. After
all the seams had been outlined with but
tons and all the slashod places had been
buttoned together, the creator of the
gown still had several dozen buttons on
his hands. so he set little straps up the
outside of the sleeve each strap being
buttoned at both ends to the material be-
Meath
The use Of buttons in moderate way
is illustrated in one of todays photo
graphs. This coat and skirt suit is of.
chiffon cloth In the delicate tan shade
called "pale ale'' Collar and cuffs of
black satin add smart touch, which Is
repeated in the rows of cut jet buttons
which follow the lines of embroidered
trimming on the sections of the coat. A
Jet trimmed black chip hat completes
very Partisan coat and skirt costume for
wear at the races.
Every woman should possess at least
one smart summer costume of pure white.
for nothing is so fresh and dainty in sug-
gestion On the Riviera, and especially
at Monte Carlo. In spring, are the white
costumes in evidence. A white coat and
skirt suit by Doueillet is shown. This
suit has the effect of long, unbroken
lines which are considered very smart
Just now The border trimming of braid
ing and the rows of fiat crochet buttons
carry out this effect of length. The hat
is a flower toque in the particularly mod
ish bomb shape. and is composed OF
bronze green foliage, with an edge OF
crushed roses.
On the boardwalks and summer hotel
piazzas these light, graceful wraps are
donned nowadays instead of the little
shoulder scarfs and knitted shawls of a
few years ago. Summer evening wraps
range in style from very simple little al
fairs of pongee in cape style to very elab-
orate affairs made of metal-patterned
Syrian scarfs. OF course, the summer
wrap is unlined. as only light protection
is needed on warm July and August even
ings These graceful wraps in pretty
shades of broadcloth are offered for
song in the department stores at this sea-
son. and may women purchase them ard
son, and many women purchase them ana
comes. The wrap shown is OF emorolder-
ed gray chiffon over white valenciennes
lace, silvered embroidery aud pale gray
satin forming the border and trimming.
Evening star., 1909-05-08

The Louis Quinze heel. of course. is the
survivor OF this period of dress. and
everybody Is familiar with the anathemas
which have been hurled by disapprov-
Ing folk at the fascinating, but inadequate
foot support.
Louis heels have not been considered
good taste for street wear. by women of
refinement for several years, the moder-
ately high Cuban heel having taken their
place with those who insisted on shoe
well lifted from the ground. With this
years directoire costumes, however,
many dainty suede boots have been seen
with Louis heels. and no doubt II the gay
Marie Antoinette styles are really estab-
Hshed we shall all be tripping and hob
Evening star., 1909-05-08
NOTES AND NOVELTIES.
Partisan Pincushions.

THE windows of a 23d stree,
shop in New York the other
day were lined with women ex-
claiming over some funny little French fig
urines displayed among the spring frocks
and hats. 1.-The loves," and How per-
fectly dear!'' were heard on every side.
Signs propped against the tiny figurines
announced that they were pincushions
from Paris, but 1t would have taken a very
hard heart to stick a pin into one of the
pretty little French ladies. The figures
might have been authoritative models for
Partisan couturters, for every detail OF
costume was in the very latest mode, and
the tiny ladies had snap and chic which
were most Partisan, considering that the
fgurines were built only of cotton batting
over supple wire.
An After-Theater Supper.
A DvOCATES Of the chafing dish are al
, ways glad of suggestions for dainty
bites, and three very delicious sand wich
hints are offered here. Peanuts rolled to
a fine powder and mixed with mayonnaise
make a crisp filing for slices of white
bread. cut very thin. Chopped nuts and
olives, mixed with cream cheese and a
little melted butter are especially tooth
Hollow Heels.
KIO excuse whatever Is there now for
! y the individual who won't 'tiptoe
light" on dancing the floor. Dancing shoes
for men and maids are provided with
heels which are mere shells, the whole
interior of the heel being cut away and
only half circle being left at the edge.
OF course, these hollow heels offer quite
as firm a support as the ordinary sort,
though they would not be substantial
enough for walking over rough pave
ments. But. of course, the good dancer
never rests the foot more than an instant
on the heel the body being poised lightly
on the ball Of the foot during the dance.
bread. TheY melted butter softens the
cheese and blends 1t into paste into
which the nuts may be easily stirred.
with mayonnaise and spread on lettuce
leaves, also make a dainty sandwich fill
ing.
Negliges to Match.
THE large country houses which ac-
commodate a number OF weekend
guests have charming rooms done in
various color schemes; one in deft blue.
another in rose pink. still another in
green and invariably one in sunny vel
low. In the wardrobe of such room the
thoughtful hostess hangs dainty Dress
ing gown of flowered silk or lawn match
ing the color of the room and the femln-
nine guests, provided, perhaps, only with
a suit case full of necessary frocks. Will
be delighted to use the pretty boudolr
gowns in such harmony with her sur
roundings. inexpensive printed lawns
with rosebuds, forget-me-nots. vloiets or
other patterns on white ground make
Evening star., 1909-05-08
a PONCE rock
with Braided Panels

one of the big black hats which are a
fad of the summer with colored cos
tunes.
Panels to right of us, panels to left Of
us, panels in front of us, broidered and
braided. Sometimes the whole gown is
made of panels laced together to form a
tunic. Sometimes the panels fall from the
shoulders like stoles sometimes they hang
over the skirt like aprons. To make over
an old frock now only the skirt need be
remodeled. A little tucked net guimpe
with sleeves may be used for the top and
from this may be hung net panels covered
in an allover pattern with braiding or
embroidery in arabesque designs. gor-
geous evening gown made from an old
Evening star., 1909-05-08

satin dress was covered from bust to hem
and from shoulder to hem by net panels
embroidered with paillettes and sequins,
the panels being heavily weighted at the
bottom with silver fringe and laced to-
gether at the sides to below the hips with
silver cord.
A paneled frock Of willow green pongee
is shown in this instance the panels fall
ing only from the waist line. Over them
goes little sleeveless bolero which forms
the bodice. and this bolero is braided to
match the panels, giving the effect of a
one-piece frock. The bolero is worn over
a sleeved guimpe of tucked silk muslin.
With this pretty frock is shown another
big black hat, in this case white gar
Evening star., 1909-05-08

HE revival of
the Louis period
In dress-prophe
sled by all the
dressmakers now
will mean the COM
ing of all sorts Of
frivolous footwear.
Never was an
epoch of such friv-
olity in footgear as
days Of the gay
court 0f Louis XIV.
Evening star., 1909-05-08

shall be wearing tunics and coiffures
roped with pearls next winter. or pam
niers, powdered tresses and patches, is as
yet a mooted question. Even Dame
Fashion herself Is undecided. swinging
from one extreme to the other as alluring
creations from both contestants for her
favor make their appearance.
Autumn will settle the question, but,
Evening star., 1909-05-08
enia being caught to the brim jrst in

denia being caught to the brim jrst in
front.
The waist line. starting to drop. has de-
scended SO suddenly that in some cases 1t
seems to be in danger Of slipping entirely
off the hips. There is a picture in one Of
the Sunday comic supplements which
shows an attenuated lady Of the mode
nouveau. and a small boy who is pointing
frantically to circle lying on the side
walk. with the information: Hi. lady.
you've dropped yer waist liner In fact,
like the lines in the popular song, ,le un-
decided waist line Of the present moment
might be imagined as saying: Il don't
know where I'm going. but I'm on the
way" With waist lines. yokes have also
evinced tendency to come down.
Now they are resting on the hip. the
skirt being plated or gathered from this
point instead of being set into the Gus
tomary belt.
These new hip yokes are being shown
in many Of the foulard and pongee frocks.
and on very chic costumes of this sort
there Is no belt. the skirt yoke extending
upward in a fitted basque which ends at
the bust over transparent guimpe of net
or tucked silk muslin Sometimes the
pretty little apron draperies. which are
much used this season, are continued up
over the bodice In the form of bibs. the
point of the bib ending at the bust line in
an embroidered or lace medallion joined
to the transparent guimpe.
Returning to the hip yoke. very smart
foulard and pongee gowns just from Paris
have plated skirts and over them varia-
ton of the favorite panel in the shape of
a shallow hip yoke ending at the front in
a long oblong which falls to the knees.
Yoke and panel. of course, are heavily
weighted to make them set fatty on the
skirt, and the edges are finished with a
piping or silk cord.
All the last years frocks are having
their collars and high Stocks ripped ruth
lessly of now, for never was there a sea-
son when bare throats were to be so en-
tirely en- reg1e for street as well as house
wear and for young and middle-aged
alike. Even on Easter Sunday-when the
thermometer spitefully hung around the
80 mark and a belated winter blast nip
ped savagely at spring finery-many bare
throats were seen under modish Easter
coats. These collarless effects do not per-
nit Of any distracting decorations in the
way Of necklaces or the like. The barer
the neck looks with the Dutch or FIoren-
tine collarless bodice against it the smart
er. Coats matching these cOllarleSs frockS
are also collarless, some OF them opening
in deep square to show how the frock
is cut away at the throat. The collarless
effects are not confined to light fabrics,
dark silks and even mohair and wool fab
ricS opening at the throat without any
finish save perhaps a fold of tulle or
round silk cord. Very young women dis
pense with even this saving softness, the
brilliant whiteness of the skin against the
dark line Of the decolletage being the ef-
time and the cost will be trifling when
COMPARED with the little attention offer.
Evening star., 1909-05-08
Flounces Are Again in
Sight The Dressy
Suit Matched by a
Coat Decollete e.
fects the Summer
Craze The Evening
Cape Now a Sum-
mer Necessity.

e r r Y W ar still
wages fast and fu-
riously in Paris be-
tween the advo-
Gates Of the Moyen
age and the Louis
modes. Paquin is
all enthusiasm for
the clinging, digni-
fed medieval styles.
Callet is turning
out gay Vatican
effects. Whether we
Evening star., 1909-05-08

A mere man. overhearing group of
women discussing the probabilities Of the
coming mode broke in with this interest
ing query: "All these classic and eccle-
siastic styles are well enough; but will
you tell me when the ladies are going to
wear those little cuddle-me kind of clothes
again." Mere man has always adored
founces, ribbons and sleeve ruff1es. Cury-
ed. for him. is the line of beauty. and no
ins1stence on the part of arbitrary Paris
style-makers that limp and scanty lanki-
ness is the proper expression of the truly
classic Is going to convince him. He pre-
fers his Venus with undulations and not
in the semblance of a slat. So, as far as
the masculine dress critics are concerned.
hail to the merry Louis styles! The sooner
founces, frills and curls make their ap-
pearance the better.
For the summer season hpless effects
will prevail, and though the waist line
has come down. the general outlines of
the feminine figure still present the effect
of willowy slenderness and straightness
which have been considered correct for a
twelvemonth. CeremOnious gowns for
summer wear are all built on these long,
Evening star., 1909-05-08

meantime, the devotee Of fashion is pleas
ing herself, wearing in interesting alter
nation classic tunics and stoles Of the me-
dievaI mode and gay little coats, pointed
bodices and skirts finished with f1ounces
such as Marie Antoinette affected.
Evening star., 1909-05-08
Fillets Of Sole and Macaroni.

Take several small f1llets of sole. lay
them in lemon juice and pepper. Grease
a Hat fireproof dish. place it in layer of
macaroni or spaghetti. ready boiled. then
the fish. then more macaroni. Moisten
well with white stock or milk and cook in
the oven until the fish is done. Have
ready some good white sauce favored
with cheese, pour over sprinkle with
bread crumbs and brown in the oven.
Evening star., 1909-05-08

A feature of the handsome costume for
summer wear is its graceful coat to
match. Almost without exception dressy
frocks are sent home with these coats of
the same material or of lace, net or mar
quisette, braided or embroidered in the
style Of the frock beneath. Even the
linen costumes have lace-trimmed coats
dyed In the same shade of mulberry,
hyacinth or one of the new stone blues or
wood green's. OF course, these costume
coats are a great piece of extravaganza,
for the elaborate coat cannot be worn
over any other frock than the one for
which it was designed. The effect is so
distinguished and elegant. however, that
few women are able to resist the tempta-
ton of such an outfit for ceremonious oc-
casions.
A sumptuous costume of this coat and
frock variety is Illustrated. In this case
the coat is sleeveless, the armholes being
finished like the fronts and the long pan
els with silk cord. This beautiful cos
tune is made of stone blue permo fabrics
richly embroidered in two shades of the
same blue. Panels of the embroidery fall
at back and front of the frock and the
coat is formed of four of these panels
joined over the hips by netting of knot
ted cords. With this costume is shown
ed by black suede and the new low foot
wear of very smart character is made Of
the soft, dull suede and buckskin leath-
ers. On Easter almost every pair of
Evening star., 1909-05-08

slender lines. and only on extreme dress
ers and in costumes for house wear will
the pointed and panniered Louis effects be
seen.
Evening star., 1909-05-08

time and the cost will be trifling when
compared with the little attention Offer
ed to ones guest.
Evening star., 1909-05-08

bling over the paving stones on exagger-
ated French heels set beneath our insteps.
In direct refutation of all the railngs
against the long-abused French heels.
Evening star., 1909-05-08

feet aimed at. If guimpe is used at al
it is of the sheerest fabric or of tucked
net. stretched over the neck to look as
nearly as possible like the skin itself.
Daily press. [volume] (Newport News, Va.) 1896-current, 1909-02-16
eEREsFoRD sHELvED.
Popular British Admiral to be Re
tired Prematureiy

LONDON. Feb. 1.-THE Admiralty
announced last night that Admiral
Lord Charles Beresford, commander
in chief of the Channel feet. will
vacate his post on March "a when the
fleet will disappear as III" chief fight
ing unit of the first lin" o: Great
Britain's naval force under the com
mand of Vice-Admirsl Sir Archibald
Berkeley. Milne. VINO is now sccon".
in command. will form the second di-
vision Of the main fleet under supreme
command Of vice-Admirol Sir William
II. MAJ. second sea lord Of the Ad-
mira!ity.
IL is understood that this means
th.. practical retirement of Admiral
Sir Charles ReresfDrd from the ser
vice and that he will bc placed on
half us-. In the ordinary course. he
would have held the channel com,
mand for for another year and world
have retired under the age limit in
1911. but the Government desired t.
group all the newest and best ships
under Vicc-Aimiral Mays command
for homo defense
This premature shelving Of Admir-
al Bcrcsiord - likely td arouse AGAIN
the acrimonious discussion so IRE
1ycntIy associated with his name.
Daily press. [volume] (Newport News, Va.) 1896-current, 1909-02-16

] sixteen ships gathered again at CT
braitar and sailed for home Saturday
Feb. 6. They will be- met at sea
about 900 miles from shore. by the
third or "hcme" squadron 90 the At
lantic fleet. consisting az four battle
ships and fve cruisers. Even the
last leg of the famous journey is &c
be given over to work. There will be
daily drills and man"euvers and III
spection by the commandments
OF every vessel on n" way over
President Roosevelt will greet the
fleet on February - from the bridge
OF the Maytiower, n the point from
which he babe farewell fourteen
months ago.
There will be two strangers III the
fee, when it reaches here-the Ne,
braska and the Wisconsin, both Pa
ciAc built. which replaced the Maine
and Alabama, detached a. San Fran.
cisco. and sent homr in advance.
The Maine will be IN" flagship of the
welcoming squadron.
AT Manila Bay tn" ships spen,
three weeks at III" target. engaged
In fall battle practice. Battle prac-
tiCe is a much longer range than
record practice and is really test
OF what the gun pointers developed
al record practice can do when the
ships are firing under battl" condi-
tions and ut battle distance. The
battle practice at Manila held under
the new fire control system. showed
an Improvement in many instances
Ct 100 per cent. over the gunrery
records o: a year ago.
The composition OF the fleet as It
returns is as follows. =.
FRS, squadron. first division. Rear
Admiral Charles S. Spcrry. comman-
der-inchief.
Connecticut (fiagshirp Cart. Hugo
Osterhaus.
Kansas. Capt. Charles +. Vrceiand
Minnesota. Capt. John Hubbard.
Vermont. Capt. Frank f. Fletcher
second division. Rear Admiral Rich.
ard Wainwright. commander.
Georgia tnagsnip' lleutcnaht-CoNh-
mardcr G. w. Kline.
Nebraska. Capt Reginald F. Mich
olson.
New Jersey. Cap. W. II. II. South
erland.
Rhode Island, Capt. Joseph B. Muir
dock.
Second Squadron. third division.
Rear Admiral SeatOn Schroeder. com.
manding.
Louisiana, (lagship} Capt. kosanth
Niles.
Missouri. Capt. Robert NJ DoylcA
Ohio. Capt. Thomas b. Howard.
Virginia. Capt. Alexander Sharp.
Fourth Division. Rear Admiral W..
B. Potter. commanding:
Wisconsin tlagshipl Capt. Frank
E. Beatty.
Illinois. Capt. John NJ. Bowycr.
Kearsarge, Capt. Hamilton Hut
chins
Kentucky, Capt. Walter c. Cowles.
Daily press. [volume] (Newport News, Va.) 1896-current, 1909-02-16

bcrs are experts in the natural ~
sources Of their countries.
Canada will be represented by the
Honorable Sydney Fisher, Minister
e Agriculture of the Dominion. the
Honorable CLIFFORD Sifton. Ex-Mipis-
ter o! the Interior, under whose al.
minis, ration many OF the regulations
concerning the use Of Canada's re.
sources were adopted. and DR.. Henri
s. Bciand member OF the Canadian
parliament. who Is well known au-
thority on these subjects. The Ca
madam delegation will also be accom-
panied BY Robert f. Young. land ex.
JOY, IN he Can ,dian department of
the interior. who will act as It's sec
lti:hv
To represent Mexico President Dia1
has sent Rnmulo Escobar, Manuel a.
De Qucvcdo. ami Carlos Soilierer.
Scn,r EsroNar, who heads the dele
gatiou. is one Of the foremost au,
flies In Mexico on the agriculture or
the country. lie has been at differ;
Of Agriculture and OF the Department.
o. Forestry. With his brothe. ne
edits the farm paper FL A2risultor
Mrvlrano, and he presented paper
on "Agriculturc Il MHX'cG' at tho
time ,r the ST. Louis ExposiL On.
Scrcr De Qucvedo is the present
Minister of Forestry. ,sts
Daily press. [volume] (Newport News, Va.) 1896-current, 1909-02-16

completed aud the main features Of
/, have Just been made public. Th"
Preside will receive the Canadian
and Mexican commissioners at 10
o'clock on THURSDAY morning in th"
East Room of the White House. The
members Of the Cabinet and of the
National Conservation Commission
wiz be present. The Canadians and
McNicans will he presented TO the
President by Secretary OF state Ba.
con. This session will be wholly IN
formal ANA brief. Al it's conclusion
the C0nfrrccs will proceed TO the
Diplomatic Room CT the State De-
partmrnt. where tn" regular sessions
will be- held. It Is probable that III"
remainder OF tn" morning VIII be
taken IN with formal addresses OF
welcome and rcpnnscs by the visitors
In the afternoon the Conference Will
take IL, its work in earnest. II Is
cxpeCtrd that the sessions will con
thu" the remainder OF she week.
The evenings of III" foreign dele,
gates Will he very fully, occupied
with various social functions that
have been arranged by their c2m.
patriots and government officers In
Washington.
The personnel OF the dclreation
fr m canada and Mexico guarantee
N, accomplishment of real results
from The Conference. for all the mem
Daily press. [volume] (Newport News, Va.) 1896-current, 1909-02-16
cENsUREs PRESIDENT.
Because He Permitted His Daughter
to See Immoral Play.

70 Gee Immoral ray.
NEW YORK. Feb. 1a.-lmmoral
plays were scored by several clergy
men from their puipits Sunday.
One minister severely criticised
President Roosevelt for permitting
his daughter. Miss Ethel Roosevelt,
to attend a performance in a Wash
ington theatre of what he termed IA
most censurable play "Salome.'
which was characterized as IAN ex-
hibition of gross barbaric lewdness."
came in for share CT the censure.
That a censorship would be made
quate to cope with the situation, ana
that only the force of an aroused
public opinion can keep the stage
clean. was the view expressed by
Rev. Ralph Jarvis Walker. rector Of
st. Simon's Protestant Episcopal
Church. East One Hundred and Six
ty-fourth street and Sheridan avenue.
the Bronz. He referred to Augusta
Thomas as one of those who has built
I'D the power o! the stage by writing
helpful dramas. and Endorsed Uncle
TENS Cabin" and Alabama as cal
culated to give the theatrical profess
sion a higher standing.
plays admitted even by The man
ayers as immoral are running in our
city theatres. ne said. THE church
must take a stanl against such per
formanccs. The clergy Is willing to
give praise TO the papers leading a
crusade against harmful plays and
playwrights who use their talents for
evil
"A few weeks ago President
Roosevtlt's Younger daughter. with
some Ct her associates from Cabinet
circles. saw a most Indecent and i'm
moral play. n Mr.. Roosevelt mad
proper regard fof the welfare Of his
family ne would no; have permitted
her to aitenG Tia; performance.
John the baptist and Saiomc. =
was the subject OF a sermon deliver
I'd at The EIo mingia1e Reformed
Church. West End avenue and Ono
Hundred and T"ntn street by the
| pastor. Rev. william c. Stinson. who
used yigor, US language in dcnounc'
ing what he rcrmcd the present i'm
moral tendcnc, "f the stage"
We profess most earnestly he
said against 'his horrible iravcsiy
of sacred thing this mcdiacval cxhi-
biton in medic" iorm 81 wrong and
vice and Grim" drcSscd in seemingly
Script ursl guis'