davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28

school taking the place Of the home the
hospital and the dspensary. feeling that
the weakening of these agencies weakens
the school and makes it unable to carry its
own load, but he believes that the school
should stimulate and cooperate with these
agencies. Further. he says. the hygiene of
instruction is as important as the instruc-
ton OF hygiene Great care should he
taken that teaching be not injurious to the
health through such causes as over long
Eours, badly printed textbooks. poorly ad-
justed seats and unscientifc sanitation"
college domination. DR.. Snedden believes,
must b. shaken off: that the schools. up
10 the age of twelve, should give general
foundations. and after that the child be
guided along the line of his greatest fit
ness according TO his future obligations.
American industry. claiming. as it does,
the majority, not only i'm New England, but
In other states. demands, he thinks. voca-
honal training and greater adaptation Of
school work. That alone he says can pro-
teet New England's industry from the
deadly competition of labor in the South
and elsewhere.
lhe new educator is more OF an admin
istrator than psychologist-his activity
more executive than legislative-and Or
Shedden shows his harmony with this idea
oy his belief that each state and each large
city should have public commission once
IN hVe years. ten at least which should
conduct an expert investigation and report
of the status Of the whole school system
ard make recommendations for improve
ments Such work" says DR. snedden,
would give the public definite facts upon
which to base its knowledge OF the pub
lie schools, Information of which there is
now plentiful lack"
The simplifcation Of the curriculum. the
Strengthening Of the three RS (Which the
new commissioner calls the three arts). the
training Of teachers in service. the discov-
cry Of the true educators, however obscure:
the economy Of school financial are ends
Tor which Dr. Snedden will work
Dr. Snedden has written largely for Cdu-
cational magazines here and in England
tie coliaborated with Professor Samuel T.
'ution on detailed study called 'Educa-
uonal Administration i'm the United States"
with d.. William II. Allen he wrote
School Reports and School Efficiency for
ihe New York committee ON the physical
welfare OF school children. His hooks are
used as textbooks in American and British
normal schools
Born in California, Dr. Snedden was
forty-one years old last week when lie as
AuIhed ms new duties as commissioner Inn
mediateiy after his appointment. His
training has included practice as well as
theory- In two cities of his native state,
Santa Paula and Paso Robes lie held the
place of principal for several years. In
1887 he received his bachelors degree at Ie-
land Stanford. and in 1901 Columbia gave
hum a masters degree. with a higher
diploma from Teachers College lie re-
turned TO his alma mater as instructor in
lso2, and from 1903 TO 1905 was assistant pro-
lessor. He then came back To Columbia
where he received the degree OF doctor OF
philosophy in 1907, since when he has been
adjunct professor Of educational admin
isiFstion.
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28

made with pleated fiounce edged with a
Tide ruching. Enabling one 10 wear fewer
garments. the maillots Of last winter. made
of soft six woven jersey. continue in
vogue While skirts are fun enough, their
straight cut and the clinging lines demand
Cd .y fashion necessitate careful gOwning
Ioreath.
The luxury of evening gowning is "a
trome. In spite of the fact that in the be-
ginning Of the season the Wholesale people
showed silks and satins Of gorgeous color
ines the evening costumes. in actual wear
by the real elegantes, are all low toned.
They are quietly rich with their touches
~ embroidery. metal threads and hits OF
lace in gay coloTs. There are tUnics OF
lovely brocaded silks shadowed by silken
tissues, in turn made splendid 10y coiored
headings and lines Of fur Fascinating is
an evening toilet fashioned after the time
of Louis XVI All of white lace. the gown
IS overhung with q tunic OF tsffeta bToche
in pale pink tones stripes alternating with
white ones Of the same width. ON these
are scattered little pink rosebuds The low
silk corsage. open I'm front 10 show the un-
Ger dress, is finished about the shoulders
with a deep lace bertha lOoped prettily with
little clusters ~ pink roses. Above the
bare shoulders glcam through thin folds Of
sLeerest white null laid fichu fashion, the
ends tucked inside. 4 cluster Of finger
thick shirrs attach the skirt and coTsage
of the tunic: The side breadths are split and
drawn together al the ends under clusters
~ pink roses.
With black or dark colored evening
gowns low cut shoes Of black Vanished
leather are worn; they have red heels and
large strauss buckles. With a white or
pale colored gown the shoes must match
some shade in il: in all cases the stockings
match the shoes. The form and tie height
OF the heels are entirely a matter Of per-
sonal taste.
For street wear of an afternoon thick
white kid gloves are worn with heavy black
stitehiigs. They are extremely practical
with their good cleaning qualities.
MARGARET ALICE FRIEND.
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28
MANDARIN SETS.

Mandarin opera coats invariably have
scarf and opera bag To match. and a.e 10
be found in sets of scarf. bag and coat
Broad scarfs OF marahout are aceompa-
MED by big round hoods of ermine or
maTabOut clipped short 10 look like ernine
and trimmed with roses. ar babyish looms
and rosettes on each side or on one side
only. Golden roses are often used for these
ear adornments, or they may be Of pink.
blue or mauve ribbon. with soft ends To lie
cOquettishly under one ear or primlv be
meath the chin, \ woman must be pretty
TO wear one of those snow hood ami scarf
sets successfully. but If she is pretty the
head covering enhances her beauty tenfolt
Another altogether bewitching evening
hood is that shaped like a chiId's little
peaked bonnet, II is made of silk and bor-
defed around the front and neck with a
wide band of fine knife pleating. This is
stitched on through the middle so that the
pleats rum olt al the top and bottom I'm a
huny effect that takes away from the
stiffness of the silk
foke oonnets OF ermine, as well as OF silk,
sath' noWers and gold, are among the sea
sons evening novelties. ana the woman
VINO can wear a poke bonnet looks like
picture i'm it, These are generally finished
"''N iipDuA oi scarf ends, which
may be tied or knotted In the manner most
becoming to the wearer
Not the least fetching Of evening head
coverings is the opera cap. and a fiat band.
about as broad as the palm of ones hand
and curved To fit over the top OF the head
II Is of golden lace. with frilI OF gold
and white lace around the edges and golden
noWers or knots on each side Often the
opera cap is incrusted with Jewels or en-
broidered with chiffon flowers i'm colors
that carry out the scheme Of the gown.
The charm OF a scoop bonnet hood de-
pends quite as much upon the face within
II as upon the materials which go toward
making IL IL is bewitehing when made nm
or mauve pinh silk shirred over rows of
wires IN the scoop frame and trimmed with
blush roses just inside the brim beside each
cheek, For automobile uses this scoon-
SNAPPED hood often has line or fur back
OF It's outer edge and floating veil OF
chiffon over the back to tie the hood IN ,ba
mead. As motor hood IL is not as becon,-
women OF all ages wear. both for svaniTs i,us
moods ana for motoring. These hoods Az.
generally made Of satin laid i'm nsrrou-
lolds from Tie 'front.' baud over the hack os
the hsad 10 the pieated hand OF Sam
around the neck a chiffon scarf is used
as oHen as SATIN ribbon for tying on these
no"as, The chiffon II draped over the b,cL
OF the hood knotted at the sidas 81
Drought around tn tie or dTapc i'm the fr,,,,,
ihcs" hoods are light and warm ann -
pfeuy ana feminine as the earlier autn-
n"p'e hradsear Wss harsh aud ugly,
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28
COURSE IN COSTUME DESIGNING,

course Of twenty two-hour sessions in
costume designing VIII be organized Monday
evening IN the School OF Household Arts
Teachers College. This is a course In the
designing aud sketehing Of costumes. with
practical applications. II includes a study
or the underlying principles OF line. dark
and lisht. aud color as applied To costume
and embroidery; also. OF costume i'm his
tory and art In relation 90 modern dress
The studio work includes Craving I'm pen
cil and water color from textiles and en-
broideries, the lay fguro and costumed
model The course is arranged for teach
ers OF domestic art and costume designing
as well as practical designers dressniakers
sha Illustrators. The Instructor is Miss
iil'ch'"sS, Tor four Years head designer
Tor wei known taiors. The first session
VIII be on Monday. from 7:i5 10 9.ii o'elo,h
IN Room 27. Teachers College. The fe.
Is si5.
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28

of family tinted blue. bordered with
broad satinIike blue edge. klotted I'm big
knots over each ear Of the woman whose
wrap and opera bag are blue. This
knotted scarf imparts youthful and
picturesque air to any woman Even an
aged woman acquires charm with such
scarf, I'm white. cream or black lace.
knotted above the ears.
ScaTfs are purchased ready knotted, or
they may be knotted at home. the knots
being held in position by means OF a few
big stitches, loosely taken. so that the
scarf may be opened out for other uses
at any time. These knOtted scarfs are
worn not only with evening toilets, but
for motoring, when they are adjusted
either directly over the hair or over an
automobile bonnet. The popular length is
three yards and a half. and chiffon is
preferred 10 net and lace. although all
these fabrics serve the purpose. as well
a sort of Liberty silk, especially use
full for automobile wear. For the latter
purpose these iImy accessories are en-
brOideTed and beaded quite as eIaborateIy
as they are for evening wear. Perhaps
the prettiest scarfs of all are the ones
embroidered with japanese or Chinese de
signs Of apple. cherry aud ounce bios
SONS upon a ground Of paIest cloud-pink
chiffon
Scarfs of chiffon show wide and narrow
satin stripes, fine satin cross-barred eff
fects. spsngles Of tiny gold or silver
beads futtering lace motives in the ends
or corners of lace appliqued border.
wide Dresden or Persian borders and
broad satin edges. They cost from s3 20
sl2. as a rule. although some cost more
and occasionally at bargain sale be-
witchinS ones are To be found at quarter
their usual price
The Persian bordcred scarfs with
grounds of a solid color are popular be
cause the Persian scarf may he worn with
several wraps or gowns. while a scarf
of single hue can he worn only with
costume that matches il
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28
CHRISTMAS BOXES.
Gifts May Noso BE Sto7ced
.41cau an LOUeIy Receptacles.

Not SO very long ago II was a prob
lem when a choice Christmas gift was
- be sent TO get an appropriate receptacle
in which TO send il. 1t never seemed TO
occur TO the manufacturers that there
might be money I'm making handsome
boxes and baskets for that purpose. A
few were to be picked up now and then
I'm the New York shops. but they were
importatiOns and extremely expensive.
The jewellers have always provided ex-
quisite cases OF velvet. silk, leather and
paper for their wares. but as the name OF
the firm is usually somewhere about the
case IL is somewhat in the nature of an
advertisement The exclusive confec-
TONERS have put out very fancy boxes,
but they always, somehow, show so un~
mistakably that they come from candy
shop.
But at last the Christmas present box
is here. The manufacturers have walked
up and are sending them out-big ones,
little ones. ornate ones, simple ones-so
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28
DIR. cRAPSEY AT PRESS CLUB.
Talks on Heroism of Peace-Professor
Hotchkiss on journalism.

THE Heroism OF Peace" was the topic
upon which DR. AigernOn s. Crapsey, Of
Rochester. dscouTsed TO the Woman's
Press Club at its meeting at the Waldorf
Astoria yesterday afternoon. Dr. Crapsey
said the era of war. he believed, was past
but there were dragons TO be conquered
yet-the dragon OF poverty. among others,
and the dragon that made for the degreda-
tion OF woman.
George Burton Hotchkiss professor OF
journalism at New York University de-
Tended the notion Of school OF Journal
Ism. which he said he knew was unpopular.
To prove that the school OF Journalism
where he teaches is worth something. he
told tale OF young man who studied
There two months. and went downtown and
got position on an evening paper. and
MAS complimented by the copy reader on
the first story he turned in. Mr.. Hotehkiss
said schools of journalism. by raising the
standard OF the newspapers. would raise
the standard Of usage of the English Ian
suage. for the papers fix the standard
whether you like that fact or not"
There were songs and rccItstions. ana
new officers were installed
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28

great variety. in short, that all tastes
can be satisfied. They of silk. satin.
velvet. tapestry, gold and silver cloth AMI
are in all sorts of quaint shapes.
Some OF the prettiest boxes are those
made of plain materials-Such as satin
In some soft, dun shade-decorated with
a single cluster of orchids. violets or
roses and tied with quantities of satin
ribbon TO match. The Innings OF these
boXes are very attractive-soft. faded silken
Innings. family perfUred. Some of the
boxes have motifs and pleatings of lace.
y gem OF a little box, just the right thing
in which to send a bit of old silver is of
pink brocade, with miniature portrait
set in the top.
\ woman who wanted to send a friend
a carved ivory comb she had picked up in
Spain found for it a box OF heavy white
MORE. which had a frill of gold lace and
pink Oleander blossoms adorning the cover
glove box, made especially To carry
pair of bridal gloves, is of rose brocade.
with monogram done in heavy gold
thread on the top.
Large enough for sets of lingerie. even
for plumed hats, are some OF these boxes
charming one is a hatboX covered with
mauve brocade and decorated with orchids
and bows of ribbon. A lace sachet covers
the bottom. long fat box, I'm which a
negligee is 10 be made to 2 Young mother.
Is covered with blue antique silk and
padded throughout with white.
For those who want something gayer
there are boxes OF French cretOnne. Some
fascinating baskets. too. are TO be found
I'm the shops. Those with arched handles,
trimmed with the perfumed French flowers
and with ribbons with tiny gilt butterflies
perched among the loops and blossoms. are
much admired. Another style has a French
doll, with spreading skirts, standing on
top. These can be used for pincushions or
wOrkbaskets by the lucky recipients.
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28
HOW TO STAMP OUT TRAFFIC.
With Money, S. S. Mcclure Says,
White Slavery" Can Be Abolished.

The only thing needed to stamp out the
white slave" traffic. according to l. = Me
CluTe, Is money. After a lecture before
the League tor Political Education i'm the
Hudson Theatre yesterday morning he was
asked for practical suggestion as 10 what
the people present could do in the matter,
His answer was:
That is very simple. All YOU require is
money. The government investigation cost
only $1,000 There are properly trained and
organized people ready to go on with the
work and all they need is money"
Mr. Mcclure did not go into any further
details. but il is understood that influential
men and women, all pledged tn secrecy, are
at work upon the problem, and are now
waiting only for the sinews OF war
Mr.. Mcclure stated that all that has been
published about the white slave traffic
gives only a hint OF its actual horrors. AS
he spoke he fingered some sheets of the
government report on the white slave" traf-
fic containing matter much too terrible. he
said, 20 print. He read extracts to show
how the business was organized, with clubs
TO which the procureuTs belonged. and he
quoted some advice given to an embryo
procureur by an old hand 1t was 10 the
effect that under all circumstances the
slaves must be made 10 obey. the obedi-
ence being exacted by all sorts of physical
violence.
1T is shown by this report" said Mr.. Nc
Clure. that one house OF prostitution in
Chicago with seventeen girls made a profit
of 100000 year. The annual revenue from
the traffic in the United States is estimated
at 500 Ooo.oOO. and Is probably much higher"
The chairman, Professor Robert Erskine
Ely. corroborated what the speaker had
said about the vastness OF the traffic.
There are those who have been saying
that all this talk about the white slave
traffic Is mere sensationalsm." he said.
but ! have seen the government report.
and know that the half has never been
told and never can ne told
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28
ON SCHOOL BOARDS
DR.. SRedden Is for Compul-
sorry appointment of Women.

David Snedden. the newly appointed Com
missioner OF Education for Massachusetts.
Is firm believer in woman's ability In
educational fields. lie holds that the APP
pointment of women to boards of education
and visiting committees should be compul-
sorry. and, moreover. that not only every
district but every school should have its
own visiting committee.
These are not the only progressive ideas
of the new commissoner-ideas in which
he is supported by the new school OF
young educators. which is coming TO the
front. DR. Snedden was one Of the first
educators TO draw attention To the fact
that part time classes might be an unques-
tionahle good. especially for the younger
children. lie believes that their day should
be shortened from four and a half or five
hours 10 three hours, and the extra time
be spent I'm outdoor play.
DIR. snedden is strongly opposed TO the
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28
CURTAINS FOR MISSION ooms

Mission and arts and crafts rooms are in
h'sh favor, but too often such rooms are
laehihs IN harmony when il comes To IN.
uec"FauNe FEATURES Fhts Is particularly
uue as respects we curtains. Writing about
.'is matter IN suburban Life" for pecem-
Der, Miss Margaret GreenIest saws. ,,t'o,
craftsman houses or simple bunraIon,s
Were furniture ot mission style is usaa
Russian crash. linen raV. arras and monks
cloths are among the materials offered r,r
ones selection; aud apy or these wound hs
iounh suitable aud decorative for vir,,r,
treatment " the curtains are properly. made
and huns The Russian crash may he sp,-
n'o'aersd WIN broad. STRUNG Russian d.
siSn. or simple patterns may be lntro,I,css
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28
SMART HEADGEAR
Bonnets and Scarfs for Motor
or EUening Wear.

Soft and fluffy and close to the contour
of the head are the creations which com
plete an evening costume. Loose ana
light. yet warm enough TO protect from
chill drafts the way into carriass
or car. they serve the part of frame TO
the face and bring out the prettiest tint
IN the cheeks the deepest color in the
eyes and the brightest CLINT In the hair
Pink is favorite for hoods. scarfs snn
rebosos this season, with plenfirui AT
lotment of white and gold. mauve ano
gold or blue and gold. Black and goio
is for brunettes who become vivid under
such treatment.
For night wear blue must he clear ana
call attention 10 the deeper hue OF eyes
that match 1t. and soften the complexion
OF its wearer. Ever so many women
wear light blue because II has the happy
effect Of imperting a clear appearance
10 the complexion. One sees chiffon scar's
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28
Some Ways of the H/orld

The arrival % Nine. Paladine has made
psychic forces an .ngC0ssing topic Of con-
sersstion Al dinners where fashionable
women gather. or the seven women a. a
recent dinner only two poOh-poohed the
subject, while the others. who represented
both the conservative and the ultra smart
set. owned up boldly 10 frequent attendance
- seances and the consultation of clair
Nosants. One of the husbands was heard
the next day 20 remark with a sigh that
With half the women mad on suffrage and
the other hair on spirit rappiEg and bridge,
he wondered how any house could be run
nsnsibly.
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28

n has been the vogue this autumn for
the fashionable small fry 20 give chari-
table fairs, ana ia each instance these
youthful philsnthropists have put their
project through most satisfactorily, the
only task oeVolvfng upon their respective
mothers being the sending forth OF visit
Ing cards 20 intimate friends. with a mes
sage 20 come 10 the fair and have a cup
~ tea afterNard. Al one recently held by
children under twelve. both boys and girls.
they arranged the tables and made all the
articles themselves, the dolls only owing
their finery 10 the goVernesses. A grab-bag
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28

Moonlight nights in the Berkshire egions
are hailed with delight by the hunting set
and younger members Of society. for then 4
Is that sides are taken 10 some far-Of
neighbors house for the pleasure OF the ex-
quisite appearance OF the countryside un-
Ger the pale rays. As bright al day the
moon shines there ana the roads look white
and winding. AT the end OF tie route an
hour or mole is spent with a rabbit and
ale, or with cider and wafHes, the latter
served with hot maple sugar melted or a
wine sauce 20 which sore fruit jelly has
been added.
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28

utilized a freight train OF natcars on a
deep window seat. one end being cur
tsined of for the unseen dispenser Of
gifts. Five and ten cent fares were IA
order. A conductor received the fare.
which went with a ticket (written on a
pad each timel into 3 car and the train
was started for tne station. After a short
delay behind the curtain il came back
with the prize ana soon as this was
handed 10 the ''grabster'' the train was
wound up 10 be ready for the next trip.
The cheerful side OF child's fair is that
groWn-ups need not come, as their rep
resentatlon by a child and goveTness or
nurse. with some money 10 spend. is suf-
fcient.
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28

The return OF wealthy families to town
i- being delayed later than usual this wear
Even mothers with debutante daughters
who are TO make their coming out" bow
are not giving the important function that
introduces them 20 society until well on
in December. Formerly the first week IN
November was flooded with cards for such
events Nor do the debutsn;es themselves
seem as keen for the round OF gayety that
keeps them indoors (save for their riding)
from December until April. The lure OF
woods and fields Is stealing into the hearts
OF all that can afford a country home.
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28

al the throat. No garment is worn with
this costume. The far cane or stole with
= huge muff. is considered quite sufficient
u seems safe 20 propnesy that this costume
viii remain On vogue through the winter.
WITH it Is worn the washable white petit
coI' of embroidered linen. The silk ones
ara reserved for walks Of morning. for
travelling and for had weather. They are
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28

One young woman who loves flowers and
keeps them about In pTO:usion SAYS that
she dsvstes one morning weekly 10 wash
Ing out the vases with hot coda water
made very strong, After each vase has
stood filled with this cleansing fluid for
hfteeR minutes she goes 90 work with
bristle brushes. az which she has a eollee-
tion. and removes the deposit OF the flower
stems from every nook and corner. Brown
soap and water follow this. and. lastly. two
rinsings ia clear water. And the drying
Is done with clean glass towels. follow ed
ty 8 polish with = ehsmois skin. The
process sounds lsborieus. but the result
TepEys all effort, for each piece looks like
new. snd the fewers last much longer be-
cause Of the cleanliness Inside
New-York tribune., 1909-11-28

needed So often IL the dog Is brushed ever,.
DAY as when this attention il NEGLECTED
~ - pest 20 use brush Of bristles ami
I'm the case OF long g-haiTed dogs the hristies
must be nearly an inch and a half long,
nfushihg always should he done one way.
that IS not against the hair. and the use
advantage by w0ollen gloves ana tha Gsra
hands. which will impart a lustrs 10 the