Evening star., 1909-07-17

bodice tapers into a crushed belt of the
messaline. which extends over the skirt
The sleeves of this bodice are particular
ly pretty. They are made of the barred
net which initiates fine tucking, and the
net is put on loosely over the messaliRe
lining, a frill standing out from the arm
along the edge.
Many figure defects can be hidden, or.
at least. softened, by elaborate sleeve ar
rangements, and the clever dressmaker
gives much attention to this part of the
older woman's costume. The long. tight
fitting sleeve which has been fashionable
so long is impossible on the older woman.
whose lines of shoulder, arm and bust
are not faultless enough to be SO con-
spicuously emphasized Soft materials,
shirred to a lining, are much more be-
coming, and all manner of shoulder bre-
telles and wrist frils may be pressed into
service to prevent the severe, tight look,
even while the general lines of the long,
close sleeves are adhered to-
Just now all sleeves are long. but the
elderly woman is wiSeSt to wear her
sleeves always over her wrist. Very Of
ten the arm is quite beautiful. even at
sixty. indeed, 6 me artist makes the COM
plant, why is it that a womans fore
arm becomes lovely only after other
charms are on the wane?" But however
smooth and round forearm and wrist may
be. the hand is seldom beautiful late in
life, and a short sleeve, calling attention
to a veined and wrinkled hand, is never
in good taste
In her costumes de ceremonie the wom-
an advancing in years achieves her high
est distinction. Rich fabrics and trim
mings, rare laces, jewels and sweeping
dranaripg added RI
lend her a presence and personality
that the younger woman who has not
arrived may not hope to emulate.
White is not for the dowager BY gas
light she may wear the soft, delicate col
ors which she would not dare to don in
uncompromising sunlight. Pale gray sat
ms, ch1nons, crepes and nets always
make up richly for evening gowns to be
worn by elderly women, and such a cos
tune should invariably be designed to ex-
press elegance. dignity and grace.
The beautiful evening gown shown is OF
pearl gray satin. with trimming bands OF
self-tone embroidery, done on the satin,
Tiny silver ribbons are also worked into
the embroidery design. The lines of this
gray satin gown are exauisitely simple
and graceful. and the costume shows the
stately train at the back, which is an aid
to height and dignity, that should always
be taken advantage of hy the woman OF
years. especially IL she is not tall The
and fold of the net edges the modes,
decolletage. The dowager fortunate
enough to retain a perfect throat and
neck Of course has her evening gowns cut
to show them; but generally the woman
past fifty wisely adds the Transparent
guimpe and stock which are much more
softening and becoming beneath the
sharpened line OF chin and cheek.
Fortunately nowadays we do not have
to celebrate the forty year mark by don
ming a paisley shawl and a bonnet will
streamers Up to absolute decrepitude we
may be as smart and trig as our young
daughters on the street 1t is not ever
necessary to wear a shapeless wrap
with baggy sleeves and of somber hue,
and thus make plain to the world that We
consider ourselves past the day of the
natty coat and skirt suit.
The older woman wears the smartest
best-cut and best-tailored street suit that
she can possibly afford; and this suit will
If simply made, avoiding mannerisms OF