Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06
Latest New York Models Quite
+" Tailor Made" in Outline:
Heavy Embroidery Coming,
Into Vogue

NOV that the eye has become accus-
toned to the slender outlines of
skirts and sleeves, we can smile at the
exaggeration of description with which
these style-changes were heralded, and
the caricature drawings supposed to rep
resent some of the advance models. 1t
was with the same rdicule, and it seems
with more reason, that the seven-yard-
around skirts and balloon sleeves of, per-
maps, fifteen years ago were introduced,
and if we compare the fashion plates of
the two periods we must admit that 1900
shows a decided advance in the way of
beauty and good taste.
A fitted sleeve is not necessarily tight
sleeve; it may follow the contour of the
arm without sacrificing either comfort or
appearance Not so much the sleeve as
the waist line has been the troublous
question of the Empire models Every
description accents the so-called hip
less" figure, and when your mirror shows
the possession of very evident hips, you
feel these gowns are not for you.
There may be protest at the sug-
gestion for increasing the size of the
waist, but that is a part of the plan
which, if carried out, will prove its own
wisdom. The same arguments of in
creased waist measure were used when
The straight-front line was introduced
into the corset, but the result was such
\ general figure improvement that that
feature was forgotten
Remember that the waist-line is not
the entire figure, and that a generally
symmetrical effect is to be preferred to
a fixed waist-measure. This much of
good work in the cause OF good looks
has the Empire vogue done, though it re-
CURED demonstration to prove it. In
stead of stout woman getting herself
into costume or coat that curves in at
the back and sides to the smallest pos
sible waist, then out again to full round
hips, let out the corset until the line is
a gradual, not sharp curve, and have
the garment fit easily If you will look
at figure in what is known as semi
fitted coat, where the waist-line is only
suggested, not defined, you will recognize
a nearer approach to slenderness than
had seemed possible.
The High Waist.Line
Skirts cut with the high waist-line are
becoming more popular every day. They
must be mounted on girdle foundation
that fits closely, but the skirt portion is
not darted in to snug fit; it hangs cas-
lily from the top of the girdle support
When an outside girdle of ribbon or silk
is used, it is drawn snugly at the upper
edge, but left moderately loose at the
lower, which is really the Regulation
waist-line. Though the Empire gowr
proper is long enough to lie on the
ground ali around, this length is irnprac-
ticable for any but gowns for indoor
wear. The shorter lengths are not awk-
ward, though the average walking length
this season is somewhat longer than last
year, the skirt just escaping the GROUND
evenly all around.
Nor is the width SO great, and goret
skirts are more often seen than PLATED
models. Where suit formerly meant
two pieces-a skirt and coat-the popu.
lar form now is called "three-piece cos.
tune, with waist, skirt and coat match
ing The waist is not necessarily of tht
same material as the skirt, nor need i
be actually attached to it.
Net dyed in all the staple colors il
perhaps first favorite for waists. 1t har
monies, for this purpose, with prac
tically any other material, and can b.