davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14
POINTERS ABOUT SFIIRTWAIST AND
SKIRT MAKING AT HOME

When making q skirt, remember a
skirt, even when properly made. Will
sag in the wearing. This is caused by
the many bias lines. To avoid this.
choose, If possible. a skirt pattern with
many cores, especially if the skirt Is
to be worn continuously for street or
Office wear. The gored skirts are more
fashionable this season. anyway The
many seams give added strength to the
skirt, and the bias edge on the bottom is
not wide enough to cause any serious
damage from saggiug, and as a rule will
not fall In ugly lines In cutting out a
skirt pattern there is always one gore
which follows the Inns of the seiRsge.
and the opposite side of the gore is bias.
IN Joining the cores together one bias
edge must always be sewed against one
straight edge to prevent the skirt from
sagging. With the skirts that have a
center seam in front and that are cut
to hang straight from a lire three or
four inches above the top OF the waist,
there Is a pad attachment Just In front.
1t is made OF cotton and Enclosed in the
lining material so that the inside OF
the skirt will look neat. II Is sbput
four inches long and two inches wide,
and runs down the center seam directly
over the waist lire. 1t keeps the. skirt
from sinking in. which is always mar
tistic Amateurs DO not always know
this trick, and the wonder why it is they
cannot always keep the center front or
the skirt hanging In a perfectly straight
line
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14

in the neck. A collar with q wide curve
at its lower edge. which sets down be-
low the throat line, gives the neck an
ungraceful. thick look. A common fault
is, 10 cut out the arm size too much
under the arm This done. and the
sleeves sewed in. the arm is pinned TO
the side and loses all freedom of motion;
whereas, If the waist is cut high under
the arm. the sleeve may be tight, yet
the arm may be raised over the head
with no disaster TO the waist. When
the shoulder seams must be altered. care
must be taken to keep the line true and
the position Tight-neitheT too far TO
the front nor the back. At the base of
the collar the neck line should be d.
vided into three equal parts; the line
from shoulder seam TO shoulder seam
across the front should measure exactly
twice as much as the line from shoulder
seam TO shoulder seam across the back.
The shoulder seam must not be too long,
else the sleeve cannot be fitted with the
necessary trim. square look. To adjust
the waist at the belt line, a narrow ben
should be pinned about the waist, and to
this the fullness should be tackled. keep
ing the seams and the line OF fullness
as perpendicular as possible.
The undeTsrm seam should fall per-
feetIy straight. Gather the fuliuess into
about q seven-inch space at the belt
Inns in front. thres and a half inches
each side Of the esnter front, IL the
shjrteaist closes In front. A hve-ineh
space will hold the fullness OF the back
al the waist line.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14

& supple material shows a lumpinsss o.
heavy line in the underwear almost as
quickly as the hips For the reason
many corsetieres urge the front Iass
corsets. whose back lines may be fitted
with perfect smoothness and remain IN
changed All corSets nov. as well a.
gowns, must be fitted with the Wesres
standing and sitting. The corset Of to-
day takes care with perfect satisfaction
OF every portion Of the figure with the
possible exception OF the limbs. Some %
the corset models aIe' slit on either aids
OF the front steel the skirt over ths
hips and legs being long and fastened
with garters. Other models are slit
in the back and fastened with fangsd
gaTters. which Will spread when seated.
Another idea is shown with q sussst OF
silk elastic on either aide, which allows
the skirts Of the corset 10 spread IA
all the spring models the bust is loser
with as little spread as possible. the waist
should be round. the hips straight. front
and back straight, and there should -
no evidence Of the abdomen.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14

shades Russian calf skin ard pin seal
are also extensively shown. Linen hand
bags shaped like the old carpet bags are
novelties OF the season that may catch
on. There are many novel shapes shown
in the shops in various feathers. one
is keystone shape. another fan shape.
but it is pretty safe IA getting a good
durable bag that is to last a couple OF
seasons 10 stick more to conventional
designs. Chain purses ana oaKs n gold
or silver mesh are stili very smart The
old fashioned portsnOnnaie Is Egsin in
vogue and is shown ia German silver.
carved sterling silver and gold. In toilet
articles and boudoir pieces. nickel ana
ebony are now more popular than silver.
the former initiated IN copper and the
latter with silver or gold
II ls quite In accordance with the
trend Of fashion that women should be
daintily perfumed these days. Essence
is not used as much 10 sachet There
are now small slips Of papler mscas
about the size OF visiting card which
are sold dozen IN q box. They are
perfumed with flowers and are Of = d .
licious fragrance. They are 20 put into
the lining OF the coat or goRn, hat,
blouse and scattered around the bureau
drawers They will impart a subtle fra
GRANGE 70 hanGkerchiefs. neckwear, bags
and wells
Calling cards fer women are nearly
square and should be engraved in Old
English or Roman block letters. Hand
kerchiefs Tor street use are very small.
not much larger than infants size. while
those used with handsome toiIettss are
far larger.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14

binztion white and black patent leather
belts are also shown The nest fash
ionable buckle effects of today are the
old fashioned designs uf our grand
mothers. brooches set in coral Jet
cameo. amethyst. turquoise. matrix jade.
topaz. pearls and garnet. Even mother
Of pearl and amber are desirable. These
can be set for buckles and clasps at a
very small cost. TiHsel tissues embroid-
cred in Persian designs of gold OF silver
threadings are very fashionable Suede
and ooze belts are also stylish
Belt pin novelties are taking the place
Of girdles in many quarters as the new
style tendencies are to conceal the waist
line rather than to accentuate it. Hat
pins are chiefly shown In gold and sill
yer initiated seal effects. imitation flow
ers and gold mesh tassel ideas. Large
headed hat pins are the rage in tortoise
she'll coral. jet, Thinestones and fresh
water pearls. The hand bags are larger
than ever and should really be termed
arm bags now as they are SO large that
they are more comfortably carried under
the arm. Some Of them are ten by
twelve inches and almost large enough
for travelling bag The bags and belts
are to match and to harmonic with the
gown. Don't buy a red bag unless you
have a red suit. Suede bags in grey are
very popular as also are those OF cham
payne tlnts. Seal and walrus are the
most popular hides used. though the pat
ent leather has some following Ali
gator also is strong favorite. These
are trimmed with heads, paws and claws
md are shown in all the fashionable
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14
SASHES AND Wells

fastened directly on it al point where
1t is caught into the gown.
wide wells are now the most fsShion'
able Incidentally they are most com
Portable and practical, for they cover
the face. hair and neck, keep the hat o..
protect from dust and wind. and also
protect the large coihure-
Thin wolfe IS the most popular mate
rial. Some are shown with square woven
dots and are the most fashionable fer
the season. Others are plain and some
have small round dots. They come in
three yard lengths and Will cover any o.
the large hats. There is one inch hem
10 give them body ard character. They
are worn fun beneath the chin. They
are often caught beneath the ear or VIII
a knot or loose ends OF ribbon. Black
is the height Of fashion, while taups.
London smoke, mouse grey and brown
are also favored. Il Is also smart 20
have the veil match the gown.
The mourning veil Of today. though Of
crepe. is not heavy and is not stiff
Among the newest yelling designs az
many attractfve!y woven msshss sure 20
please the woman OF refinement Those
Russian net. yeilings with the woven
square dots come ia many shades and
cost sec or use yard Black and white
veilinEs come IN Russian meshes with
woven dots The width IS eighteen
inches and there is q great variety CT
designs
Nroaa ,-oif- ara rof-s - rorttgsr a. fkev
were. the demand running largely e
yardage goods. Chiffon veils 10 hghl
colorx are favored for motoring scar.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14
NOVELTIES AND VANITIES

>OHEN dress accessories
fXATE have never been shown in
la wider and more fetching
- range or styles than during
lk&{kNfz the present season The cur
rent styles are especially
adaptable TO the use OF accessories
The dIrectoire trend is particularly con-
ducive TO girdlss. buckles and button
novelties. Buttons are. in a large meas
ure, OF enameled effects 10 colors 70 coin
eide with the gowns. such as green. blue
and rose The button trimming is
strong feature Of the new gowns Gold
buttons. FURNISHED and dull oxidized all
YER effects are popular as are all the
mold effects covered with silk Jet and
cut steel novelties in buttons and buckles
are fashionable. the latter especially so
on hats. In glrdles and fancy peits
sstlns with fringe or tassel ends are
quite a feature OF the Spring styles BY
the way. the true direc,oire girdle laces
or fastens at the side. The we'll dressed
woman spends a goodly portion OF her
allowance on pretty belts. For the severe
tailor made type, the plain leather belt
Is most desirable: there Is a variety OF
width, color and the shaping OF the
buckle. Very pretty effects are In col
ored moroccos. with leather thongs of
a contrasting shade threaded through.
Buckles covered with soft leather, stud
ded or embroidered with steel or other
metal. are on many OF the wide belts.
The most ornate slides are reserved for
silk. ribbon and elastic belts. Narrow
patent leather belts in all fashionable
colors and white are very smart. Com
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14

the more simple designs are naturally
favored. silks Of the softer chsractes
will be most popular this Spring and the
rustlins taffetas will come next in fsvot.
Satin surfaced materials. which havd
been so popular the season Just past, will
carry over TO the early Spring and fof
Easter wear MessaIines viii also ba
used, but Il Is found that they are not
particularly practical OF durable IN
tahetas plain cclors will have the prefer
ence though stripes and floral designs
are also shown in great variety. Some
of the stripes are three-qusrters of an
inch in width and show combinations of
harmonious colors
In cotton garments the imitation silk
fabrics find the most favor. These pet
ticoats must also be form fitting and ase
made on tailored lines with 2 subdued
embroidered hounce Other cotton ma
terials that are shown for Spring petit
coats are striped effects in ginghams.
muslins and printed cottons. Some Of
the garments have printed border de-
signs on accordion plated hounces.
These are novel and attractive
In Paris a special petticost has been
designed for those women who insist on
petticoat under the evening EoWnsl
II Is Of softest, most clinging satin OF
silk, falling in long straight plaits, UNI
broken by rufies or hounces, 90 thq
ground As q finish there Is ruchinf;
OF the same material. These petticoatt
in colors of every tone and combination
These petticoats are merely concilliatory1
or rather compromise BY the uodista
to meet the less daring women Those.
however. who adopt the height Of fash
ion, appear sans anything below the
skirt
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14

gAHE sash reigns triumphant It
has suddenly become an all
! important factor in dress.
eN When the Partisan dressmek-
EksNlS2lsTs first introduced the fashion
- Of the sash it was generally
thought that its reign would be brief and
most OF our American dressmakers ad-
yised their clients against 1t, pointing
out that there was considerable art in
wearing a sash gracefully. Nevertheless
the sash is still a significant note Of
fashion, not only on visiting toilettes
and evening gowns swathed around with
soft folds of silk OF ribbon hanging in
long. graceful ends at the side, but the
sash has also made its appearance on the
tailor-made gowns.
OF course the sash as seen to most
advantage on slim figures. AS a means
of freshening up last seasons gown the
sash is simply invaluable TO the home
dressmAker. There is certain art IN
the arrangement OF the sash, which
should not be tied in the old fashioned
way. A length Of silk RIBBON OF crepe
measuring three yards form the sash.
Heavy silk tasssls are the most effective
finish for the ends. Heavy satin ribbons
with fringed or embroidered ends, and
crepe de chine with motifs of lace. are
also smart On some OF the new even
ing gowns which are finished with the
lash carried across the figure like an
order, the severity OF line is broken at
The waist or at the bust by real OF aFti-
Leial flowers. They are thrust quite care
lessiy. although Of course with real
attention TO effect underneath all The ap-
parent carelessness. under the sash or
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14

for the price of silk stockings in this
country is not what 1t is in Paris. OF
course. we have those OF the Isle and
mercerized varsity. which wears far bet
ter and looks almost as WELL" but she
Of the slender income who wishes TO be
strictly "a la mode" must economize
somewhat on other tribes IL she wishes
to obey the dictates of Partisan fash
ions. But even these near silk hose must
match the gown. This Will necessitate
having not zone pair 10 wash and one
pair to wear" but one pair for every
gown. IL not one pair for every day in
the week Everything in the way OF
light mesh fabrics will OF course be
shown for Spring and Summer. and their
preferment will be adjusted to the indi-
vidual income. but silk ia the really
swell thing
Black embroidered effects will be more
popular than ever in Issie and msrcerized
textures. but rnonotones will prevail in
the silks. Harking back TO the slashed
skirts and petticoatless ankles, they have
given the hosiery like the pumps or
oxfords, more prominence than ever;
nevertheless the open neshed stockings
are not as fashionable as the flet net
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14

sraNY woman will attempt the
= / making of a shiTtwsist, but
BY no means any woman can
fsEz...-SS produce a weaTabie garment
sSSSs The fault is not so much that
sEsEz1az1f Of tailoring as OF fitting. and
yet Il can hardly be called fitting, either.
when so many home seamstresses will
cinscientiously follow the pattern OF
Jhslr bust measure, and let II go at that.
and. even where some sort OF adjust
ment Is tried, there are plenty Of places
where a word of advice would come
handy. II is well worth knowing where
20 make alterations so as not TO disturb
the style of the pattern. The lines Of
the neck and arm size should never be
cut close to the pattern, for there are
places where frequently alterations must
be made
Collars are oSten hard 20 At because
the neck has been cut out too much. To
adjust the collar properly 10 the neck,
the waist should be tried on and the
neck, which has been cut too high. clip
ped little by little, and gently stretched
until Il settles into place without
wrinkle. Then the collar may be pinned
about the neck, ftted comfortably and
smoothly. and it's lower edge carefully
tackled to the waist neck. The very best
collars are straight strips OF material
curved gradually al the top 20 measure
one-auarter 90 one-hsif OF an inch higher
in this back than in the front 1t is pos
sible 20 III these straight collars smooth
Iy. provided the waist Is eut high enough
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14

E9NE5 glove. tempors lily at least
- Such. however. does not seem
TO be the case. The smartest buyers
have commanded large impcrtstions Of
long gloves for Spring, evidently pointed
toward evening toiIettss This may
seela incongruouE nevertheless ct the
n<A York horse show this Winter where
everything ran TO long sleeves. long
gloves were much IN evidence. In Eng
land they are removing the gloves with
the hat at the theatre. In Paris they are
worn over the transparent sleeve and I'm
aoubtedly look better than the short
glove However. the short glove has
been out so long. and Il is so okic and
cheap. that there is no doubt that the
!ons sleeves will be used as a logical
excuse 20 return them to favor in many
quarters
The icng gloves for evening wear are
worn TO extend Just above the elbow.
rkate kid, embroidered in delicate colors.
sfi oriental designs with oriental colors.
are very fashions Gle. The most costly
are touched with Inc silver and gold
threads Suede gloves are given prefer
ence over Che glsce, because they have
a smart appearance conform better to
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14

fzs1ITE, the skirts for street wear
AAH we find Il 10 almost impossible
w 10 wear the former flounced
S%@6 petticoat with the straight
IeA}ESzt skirts Of today They are
making the skirt IN a narrow
gored style with scant circular hounee
which amounts to little more than q
fare. The skirt should be made OF sup
pie silk with a very plain hemmed
hounce, which can be finished with a
silk braid. The much-berufTled petit
coat has too much breadth in the
skirt portion and the protruding rUff1es
are noticeable beneath the narrow skirts
For wear under evening gowns modistes
are making Empire petticoats. the upper
portion OF which extends to the high
waist line and to the knee at the bottom.
from which point falls a founce OF the
daintily trimmed with lace. The founce
is Joined to the petticoat proper by a
band OF embroidery or a ribbon threaded
beading. From the front Of the Empire
waistline a ribbon extends over each
shoulder 10 the back Of the waistline.
mus assuring Nhs HSsFSF that Nhe sNAi
will not slip out of place
The hipless skirts and high wsisuine,
the close 1T OF dress skirts demand a
form-fitting petticoat with much more
exactness in cut than ever before. The
new designs are with. the adjustable
bands and there is also a great demand
for those with the draw strings. They
are made on closer fitted lines with just
the desired fullness in the back and
little dlfHcuIty is experienced in adjust
ing them TO the figure. so that they give
perfectly fiat lines With tailored suits
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14


fascinating way. or absorbing a fashion
and in the corsets women have designed
models that make any figure conform
with the present-day fashion Corset
ieres have had a thrilling year, and an
opportunity TO give free reign to their
inspiration. All sorts Of experiments
have been made IN the interests of the
Directoire OF even the tube figure, and
while the hips have been savagely at
tackled, the new models as q whole have
tended toward comfort, for a decrease
In numbers Of bones and stsels has
marked the experiment. many Of the
smartest French models being so slightly
boned that they allow surprisingly free
play 10 the torso muscles The straight
front line has allowed waist expansion.
and models opening in front or without
stir front steels have given the digestive
organs more than usual chance to fulfill
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14

HIS being a season Of ensemble
effect hosiery, like gloves,
shoes. hats and everything
else. must adhere to the color
scheme OF the gown. This is
q dsson.trz Ss0u pfooe af MANS
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14
NEW CORSETRY FEATURES

D be OF the prescribed sl!mness
and TO assume the general out
line Of the season, means only
to get the correct corset and
to don it as every woman can.
She has 4 WAY. a feminine.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-03-14

.HE long sleeves thar are shown
/ throughout all the Spring
/ fashions would naturally sus-
eest the d. on Of the long
/ glove. tempors lily at least.
S,,~h however. does not seem
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1909-07-22
SHOOTS SELF IN
WINDSOR HOTEL
Harry De Lisle, Detroit Man, Tries
To End Life During Fit of
Dependency.

Discouraged over his inability 10
find employment, Harry De Lisle, %
year-old son OF Michael De Isle. oi
No. 40 LlvevnoiS-ave., attempted SUI
eide by shooting himself through tht
right breast, IN the Br!ti ihAmerit al
hotel. Wind 'or. "Wednesday morning
The bullet IS believed To hav
pierced the lung, but IL emerged un
der the tight shoulder blade. and was
easily removed by the physicians ~
ST. Marys hospital. De Iisle is ap
parently in no danger. and seems K
suffer but little from the wound.
II think | must have been littl,
crazy when | did ii said De Llsl,
II don't know how | happened To 20
TO Windsor 10 shoot myself | W..
fred from my job "A conducted.
for the -. L. IL. about three month.
ago and since then had not been abb
TO find any work.
This morning | went 10 the office o
the claim agent of the Pere Marquette
and asked for a job. but couldn't &c
one. Then | got on the boat. Wen
across the river and shot myself"
The Detroit times. [volume] (Detroit, Mich.) 1903-1920, 1909-07-22
ALLEN HEADS SHOE MEN.
Detroiter Elected &c Succeed Al
Otto Reinhardt.

!
O. d. Allen, OF Detroit. will guild,
the activities OF the Michigan Retail
Shoe Dealers association for the com
ing year, being elected president
! Tuesday afternoon. at the close OF the
shoe dealers convention. He will
make strong effoT; 70 unite the
shoemen in an effort to discourage
| freak styles In footwear.
The association sent a telegram "a
! President Taft, commencing his stand
with regard 10 lowering the duty on
hides, and urged him TO insist on com
plete removal OF this tariff Each
OF the shoe dealers present agreed "a
at once take out $4,000 OF Are insur.
ance il. the new mutual insurance
company which is To be formed. dg-
ures having been presented To show
that there is 4 profit Of Sc cents IN
every dollar of premium collected ;1l
insurance on this class OF stores.
Otto Reinhardt, retiring presiden.
was presented with handsome trav
cling rag. Fred G. Clark was re-elect.
ed secretary, which position he has
4 held ever since the association was
formed. Henry Kaiser is treasurer
All OF the executive officers are De
troit men. The vice presidents elect
ed Thursday are: f. b. Elliott. Flint:
Joseph Bressett. Bay City; Leo Gr,m
er. Ann Arbor: Earl Wilson. Beldng
The new directors are: John kraai
Muskegcn: George BoGe. Fremont; T.
J. Dittnan. Mt Pleasant Charles
Weber. kalamazoo; Albert Murray
Charlotte
The ncXt convention will be held in
Ann Arbor. Most or the shoe retail
ers leave for Boston, Wednesday
night. u attend the shoe and leather
, fQir