Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-11-26

tune. The iOHB, lOOSe, straight coat, curving just 6 little more at the sides than that of the spring, and semifitting in the back, is the rule and rough serge seems to be the favorite. Broadcloth is less popular than in many years, so far as street costumes are concerned. For the general utility coat and skirt or three-piece suit the rough, loosely woven wide vale diagonal is perhaps first choice. After it come other rough surface serges, cheviots, homespuns, odd fuzzy basket weaves, chevrons, diagon- als, etc. A coarse thread of black runs through many of the rough colored tone mixtures in the rough woolens have considerable vogue.
 Severest tailored styles would seem the smartest thing for such materials and the severe tailored frock is much to | the fore, but one finds braiding used upon many of the rough cloths and | touches of velvet and embroidery are not considered amiss. One thing mili- tates against the triumphal career of | these very rough woolens. They are not so practical for the popular three. piece suits as broadcloth and finer serge would be, and this fact has led to a | greater vogue for the blouse on suits with coat and skirt than was expected at the beginning of the season.
 As good coat usually outwears a skirt, many women are economiZing by ordering one-piece walking frock and coat with a separate skirt to match. The coat and skirt can be worn with comfortable odd blouses for ordinary purposes and the coat and frock fur nish walking costume little more formal and pretentious. It is also a | good plan to get a coat and skirt walk ing suit and little walking frock in the same color but of different material. The coat and skirt may be of serge, 1 broadcloth or zebeline and the extra fIoek of something lighter, preferably of silk or silk and wool mixture.
 There is new crepe weave which is altogether charming for such froek, though it is so high in price that it may be considered by the average wo. man too expensive for the purpose. It has a slight cord and an exquisite sur. face, dull yet lustrous. At first glance one might think it wooden material because of it's soft dullness, but one | look at the folds into which it drapes proclaims it crepe. On the wrong side | it has satin finish and pronounced cord, and despite its wonderful supple ness there is more body and wearing quality to it than to the more familiar crepes. In Paris silk mousseline and chiffon are being used in enormous quantities | for tunics, yeilings, etc, on the visit. ing, reception and carriage frocks, and ! the makers do not hesitate to combine these sheer stuffs with the heavier ma terials, not only the crepes, silk cash meres, etc, but velvet cloth and even rough serge.
 Black IS exceedingly strong this sea son, even on this side of the ocean, and in Paris 1t is perfect craze, for which many a women will be devoutly thankful. for the modish black frock covers a multitude of wardrobe sins or defects. Tailored frocks, visiting gowns, dinner gowns, evening gowns, any and all are smart in black, though 1t IS in daytime costume that the all-black toi- lette is newest and most chic. Color ! IS StluOm ustu lb itbtNb bit blaNh though cream almost always is used next to the face, and little gold ire quently enters into the gulmps. The monotone effects either nl black or col or are seldom carried to extreme this wear. The frock color mounting quite to the face proved so unbecoming when tried last year that women rebelled and dressmakers relented, and this sea- son we have the becoming cream or white next to the face once more.
 Persian silk is artistcally utilized by many blouse makers for the founda- tfon over which dark chiffon falls. The lovely design of this silk is elusive in its coloring, and its uncertainty adds a charm which is always striven for by those who shun fragrant or conspic' uous tones. One underblouse of Per. sian silk in which green and mauvt
 are yelled with silver light, IS es
 pecially beautiful under blael. chiffon
 bolero. This is braided with black sou
 tache and falls to, the top of folded
 girdle of silk. L0pg silk sleeves arc
 draped at the top with chiffon, and em
 erald buttons ornament the front ant
 back of the girdle and the enter lint
 of the sleeves. Tiny black satin loop and small cravat finish this blouse Persian silks are rising in favor be cause of their two-colored effects, mak ling it possible to wear one blouse witt
 two different suits Aside from thi
 practical feature the material has man.
 attractive features, not the least i'm
 portant of which is the great beau.
 of the material.
 :, Bows are used extensively just now
 They appear on hats, gown, scarfs an'
 muffs, and are from large, flat sat
 in form to tiny plaited gold shape
 On the turned-up brims of this season
 hats there are silver, fanlike bows. gol loops and bronze ones. Then, agaln
 metal lace is tied in stiff shapes an
 nestles in fur and feathers. Some Hug
 bows of white or black lace form th ; only trimming for large, fiat hats. In
 decd, huge wing has been turned m
 der to simulate a bow on velve shape.
 ! On gowns, especially for evenin! wear, bows are used in unexpected