New-York tribune., 1909-03-07
WHAT'S IN A NAME
Delicious OIdtime Dishes zcith Undp-
petiSing Titles.

From, time immemorial there has been ten
dency to give eccentric names 10 soHIe VI ~
most popular culinary triumphs Some OF t"e9
names are pretty some quite the reverse. Cu-
,t4,s ,veIIs - for instance the name OF a dainty
szyeetn1eat is a charming appelation; put "'la'
perverse fancy fastened the phrase toao III
hole" upon q time-honored English recipe loi
savorv meat pie? But pretty or ugly many u
these names have become classics as HIuOIi {"
part Of the dishes to which they are attached DIS
are the ingredients.
The famous Or. Kitchener, who wrote olas
sic cookbook years ago, must he a"af"eu ' ,i,e
palm for cleverness in coIecths Ieclpe' ",
o,,airt names. Cat in gely' is one OF them ana
others are .roeboat" "vvowwow sauce and dog
sun" which is very strong catsup. 1t Wouia DC
Interesting TO know what cat in geiy IS, out
Dr. Kitchener does not give the recipe, mercy
stating that it was a favorte. medieval dlsh-
..naTfrs" fairly swarm in Or. Kitchener's book
h,,r most Of them differ little from the devilIeo
dishes Of to-day. Here is his recipe for orol'eu
devils:
turkey canon or goose. the kidneys of mutton
or veal Score the meat, and season lghtIy "l'L
salt and pepper Bro over very hot fire. ana
send TO the table with rich sauce favored with
curry wine
All sorts of quaint names have been besto"ed
upon cakes fancy breads and s~eetmeats,
,.pro,rnies 'love cakes" 'dominos, "hermits
kisses" 'snowballs" "wasps' nests, pm
wheels" "rosetes" love knots" bachelors out-
tons" and queens tidhIts' are some OF iheHl-
..yyasps, nests is the old German name for the
,fr,+ias known to New Workers as ''pinwheels
and sometimes cinnamon buns To make these
a coffee cake dough is rolled very thlh ana SpfiI-
kIed with raisins, currants. cinnamon ana susdl'
Then it is rolled up like round jelly cake anu Gu,
into slices and the slices sprinked with minced
almonds rubbed with plenty of butter and baked
king Henry's shoestrinEs'' IS the queer name
NJ \ delicious sweetneat-lemon cakes, hied WIN
minced almonds busted with powdered sugar ana
IN strips
-.Devil's grub" and demon cake" are Old names
for black cake with chocolate it, called, prob
ablv because ANGELS food" has always been the
name for certain kinds Of white cake.
maids of honor are English cheese cakes-'he
recipe said to have been invented by one OF queen
E-rfzabeths maids OF honor Some writer's even say
that the great Queen herself originated IL however
il may bc. these dainty cakes are sun til'Iue anu
eaten in certain towns of England Nuns are a
sort Of sweet cake made out OF puff paste and Jam
o., q thin round Of paste. lay q spoonful Of Jam
on IL cover II with another round Of paste H1osten
the edges and pinch them together, and fry IN deep
fat Drain and roll in powdered sugar CUPID
wells a swcetmeat invented by Francatelll Queen.
Nictoria's famous old pastry COOK are So'''e' ''
ike nuns" only they are baked.
Inventors of dishes seem 10 have fondness Tor
the word SNOW which has been bestowed upon
every Imaginable kind Of white dessert Sno"
eggs" IS another name for floating island Alpine
baskets are a Swiss dainty. easily made-just a
shell or little cake followed out filled with
whipped cream, with strawberry on TOP
Other queer names for sweetmeats are oFus
nests" 'porcupnes." "hedgehogs, wind bags
a.. -. ,,5,i,s-.. dog in the blanket" Monkey
,s,- l. ,otrf1ey more nor less than bread pud-
- ,,,.,~.5 c-i,b cinnamon and raisius. Dog IN
tie blanket" Is a fruit roypoly, steamed.f
Angels on horseback" Is a famous old recipe !.
some authorities say It IS Of English others OF
German origin The angels" Ike pigs in
bIanl,.ts"-oysters wrapped in thin slices OF bacon
and served on toast. gamlshed with lemon.
In the line of stews and other meat dishes are
several famous old classics with funny names
"Star-gazy pie Is one Of Cromwels old recipes
The ingredients are d fresh maCkerel. some thin
slices Of bacon some parsley thyme, tarragon vine
gar sweet marjoram, bay leaves, bread crumos
and the voks Of four eggs. Clean the fish, nahe H.
season with the herbs and place In buttered dlSh
in LAYERS with the breadcrumbs. Moisten with the
a,s, yoIlys and two tablespoonfuls Of the vinegar
cover with q layer Of bacon, spread a thin layer
Of piecrust over all. and bake two hours.