Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-09-05

NEW YORK, September 1.-The ev-
 CT increasing fullness of the skirt and
 sleeve, so noticeable in the advance
 models put out by the leaders of fash
 ion, is of course, a matter of vital i'm portance to the student of fashion. The flow of the sheer materials of summer | foretclls a season of drapery, although
 the fabrics worn in colder weather will
 look entirely different. even when made
 in the same way, Skirt yokes and cuir-
 asses are sort of compromise, which
 keeps the material implicated around
 the hips and waist.
 Ii is asserted by some recognized authorities that there will be no plain skirts during the coming season. Trim med skirts, the same authorities say, will not be much in evidence, but pleats will be used on nine out of ten of the models. If. this is true, it will surely please large majority of the women, for the plain, smooth fitting skirt is by no means becoming to all figures, while pleats can be arranged to suit any figure. Fortunately there is no strict rule as to how the pleats shall he arranged, so long as they form
 part of the skirt design.
 The new skirts clear the ground and gored patterns are preferred to the cir cular, being more satisfactory for pleat- ing. Some skirts are pleated ali around the waist. from narrow, plain front gore, others display pleats in groups. A favored model, because it is generally becoming, is the nine gored skirt, with a pleat let into each seam from just below the knee to the edge of the skirt. Stout women will like this model for the reason that, if the pleats are made deep and set in with accuracy the effect is that of plain skirt, the pleats only displaying themselves when the wearer moves. Tailor stitching is almost the sole dee oration and the absence of buttons is marked, for those employed are for use only.
 In this year of odd combinations there is distinct temptation to indulge in experiments. Last year, when linen aghast at the temerity of the designer, yet we have lived to see much stranger combinations Woolen braids have ac- tually covered some of the buttons on gingham froeks. This summer it has become quite usual to see a linen or lace coat worn with n frock of pom gee or even foulard, while linen gowns and wraps are made with sashes of sat in, not merely worn with the garments, but attached to them as part of the gown. Even chiffon has not been cx empt from this strange combination idea. The chiffon gown has made it's appearance in times past adorned with | of broadcloth, and this year | it has been used even in conjunction with linen, when it forms tunic or overdress.
 One of the striking features of the present period is the popularity of black and white in combination. With | the passing of the summer and the in- definite advent of autumn black and | white give pleasant relief from the gay | colors of the summer season. Nothing | can be better adapted to the morning | pr the evening. to house or street wear, than this combination of two strong forces. The black and white dress, with either color predominating, gives ! sense of appropriateness to the time. The large white bird placed upon the black hat solves the millinery question.
 Even some of the newest negligees nave departed from the baby blues and 'hel piuks and are appearing in attract we black and white. The practical ,dvantage of peignoir that does not ,pend most of it's time at the cleaner $ ,ught to recommend it to the average