The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1909-06-18
FADs AND FASHION.


New York, June IS. = Rumors are |
coming in from Paris that the revival |
of the Louis XIV and Louis XVI styles, |
the separate skirt gathered at the |
waist to a band, and the pointed bodice |
over it will be worn; but, so far as
this summers frocks are concerned, |
one-piece effects will be the invariable
rule. Indeed, the distinction and charm
of a lingerie costuSle depend on the
one-piece effect, the white dress with
waist and skirt joined under a ribbon.
sash or belt savoring entirely too much
OF the bucolic toilet which is wont to
appear in starehed splendor at church
picnics and other rural summer pleas
urings. The one-piece lingerie froek,
however. when in stately trailing
length and of sufficient elegance of
character. becomes at once a costume
of distinction and when it is accom-
panied by appropriate accessories in the
way of picture hat. parasol and long,
embroidered silk gloves, it is a verit-
able grande toilet and quite suitable
for the most particular occasions.
Some dressmakers, to insure a per-
feet fit on these hlmy frocks, which.
on the one hand must cling to the fig
ure, yet on the other, not appear
drawn or scant in any way, make them
up over carefully fitted muslin Innings,
the lining being clipped away when the
frock is completely finished. II a col
ored slip is to be worn beneath such
frock, as is the case with most of the
costumes designed for formal wear.
slip is built of the softest possible silk
or of messaline satin in princess style
and fitted to the figure by cores and
darts It is sleeveless and has the
neck cut open in decided decolletage.
A rather scant fiounce finishes the bot
tom of the slip, this founce being edg-
ed with a narrow frill of lace; for there
must be no harsh lines of straight
hens under the lifted fluffness of a lin
gerie frock.
Under the little silken slip goes only
one petticoat, and though this petit
coat may have two or three lacy
ffounces at the feet to give a fascinat-
ing frou-frou effect about the ankles,
there will be but one layer of fabric
over the hips, and that of the sheerest
batsite, for IL must always be kept in
mind-no matter what the nature of
the costume-that hips are out of the
question.
So the trimmed petticoat has it's
hounce set on a deep yoke of sheerest
NULL and at the head of the f1ounce is
a beading with colored ribbon, which
shows through the thin stuff of the
dress. Transparent gowns this summer
will be very frank in showing the blue
pink or lavender bowknots on the init
mate garments beneath. and Parish
ennes. following the present craze for
black, are running narrow black vel
vet through their lingerie.
The renaissance of the foulard comes
as a boon to womankind, for never was
there a material more practical for gen
eral warm weather service, combining
beauty, GOODNESS and duability There
are, of course, various qualities of fou-
lard and consequently varying grades
of beauty in the material. But, it pays
to buy a good quality, and very lust
rous, light of weight, exquisit In col
or, are the more expensive. but these
are usually woven in double width SO
that though the price may seem high.
the amount of material required is
much less. The fine foulards now have
the design woven throughout, so that
the effect of a printed design. once the
chief reproach against the material, Is
done away with.
Among the imported models in fou-
lard rather large white dots set closely
together on a ground of soft color have
held first place, and all the fashionable
dessmakers, following the Partisan
lead. have used much of the dotted fou-
lard in double width and exquisite
quality. The best Of it has not the high
satin lustre. though it has a wonderful
sheen and is wonderfully supple
All the most modish colors have been
brought out in this fouard and certain
blue are especially liked while dark
blues and white and black and white
are favorites for mare general wear
Other designs of course, are in evil
dence and many are very attractive
Variation from the conventional dot
has been made in little oval or square
figures sprinkled. as are the dots, on a
a plain ground, and even more ambiti-
Gus designs combined with brocaded
backgrounds, are shown.
Pongee is as popular as foulard and
like the latter. is used for all sorts OF
costumes, from the simplest princess
trotteur to the elaborate bridge frock
or visiting frock, covered with a wealth
Of embroidery. For hard wear it will
pay to buy a pongee of good quality
not too light and of smooth surface
Some of the rough surface pongees are
very good looking, but they are quick
ly soiled. Highly lustrous pongees Of