davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1909-07-10
>aIT Ta1dZzmeE EZ2@clss
III ZZn6e<.1e

and hard wear of the pavements, and
that such petticoats should be kept for
ballroom frocks for wear with dainty
negliges. which would at least reveal
their beauty.
x X
Two founces are generally used on
these lingerie petticoats for street wear,
and these founces may be attached sep
arately to deep fiounce or may be at
tached one 10 the other, as in the petit
coat illustrated today. Lace trimmings,
fortunately, are reserved for evening pet
ticoats, these for street use being trim
med with very fine machine embroideries
in imitation of hand effects on null or
handkerchief iinen or finished only with
scalloped ruffies. The French woman of
refinement is very partial to petticoat
flounces of sheer material delicately seal
loped at the edge, or ornamented simply
with hand-embroidered dots. Ready seal
loped strips of batiste and null may now
be obtained in most embroidery depart
ments, and two Of these soft ruffies over
q similarly scaloped dust ruff1e make
beautiful and not too ornate street skirt.
Les dessous-or. as Elizabeth calls them
in her visit TO America" ones ''un-
dies"-incluGe now but three pieces, the
soft chemise of embroidered null, or. if
one can afford it. adorable Italian silk
like the beautiful silky fabric of which
the pretty embroidered gloves are made;
the combination corset cover and pan
talon. and one petticoat. Such an outfit.
if one shops thriftily-not along the ex-
pensive Rue de la Paix. where absurdly
luxurious things are displayed to catch
the unsophisticated American. but in con-
servative little shops on the side streets
may be picked up for well under hum
dred francs, The materials will be fine
and soft as babywear and there will even
be convent hand embroideries. The same
outfit purchases in America would very
likely run up over $50. AS one disgruntled
woman put it, after an exasperating eX-
perience with the custom house officials,
The prices asked for Paris lingerie-in
Paris-actually put a premium on a tall
ent for smuggling.
Anything more beautiful than the bridal
lingerie produced by Jeanne Hallee in
Paris can scarcely be conceived. A set of
four pieces just completed in the Maison
Hallee. and including nightrobe, chemise.
pantalon and corset cover combination.
and petticoat. shows a design in Won
derful madeira embroidery. of cupids
swaying on rose garlands. pantalon
Evening star., 1909-07-10


important item of the warm weather
wardrobe and the wise woman has plen-
ty of these dainty, informal garments
made up in washable materials, knowing
that immaculate freshness and daintiness
even in ones bedchamDer helps to tighten
the burden of the sultry summer days.
II the summer is to be spent quietly at
home or in the retirement of ones own
bungalow or country house, great COM
fort may be had in half a dozen cool,
simple little breakfast frocks.'' more
presentable to the public eye than a bou-
doir gown or kimono intended, cf course,
for only room wear, yet with all tie
loose, informal ease of dressing gown.
These little breakfast gowns are made
of fiower-printed or dotted lawn, of cross
barred lawn and of sprigged dimity.
They are fashioned all in one piece, with
bodice and skirt joined by an inch-wide
ribbon beading of embroidery. The bodice
may be laid in tucks or gathered at the
shoulder seams, and the skirt should be
moderately full at the bottom with a
deep hem and tucks above. The neck
may be cut out in little square or in
V shape. with turnback collar. Such
a breakfast neglige. made UP of mex
pensive printed lawn in a pretty rosebud
Evening star., 1909-07-10
Health In Woman's Work.

nHYSICAL culture has grown to be
ID such a fad with women of every age
and in all walks of life that il must
surely be comfort for the humble house
wife to realize that in her everyday tasks
about her home she is undergoing regu-
larly system of physical culture that is
far superior to the very best of the meth
ods so boasted about. In fact, the very
highest OF medical authorities declare
That no single method of physical culture
Taught by instructors for women can give
equal physical Improvement to what can
be found i'm an intelligent course in sweep
ing. dusting, bed-makinfi and rug-shak-
ing.
The muscle movements caused by the
various motions so carefully taught IN
physical culture courses are identical with
the muscle movements called forth in
active housecleaning. If the housewife
will only keep her windows wide open
while a. work and hold her chest out
and shoulders back with the head erect
while at work. the same physical glow
can be obtained from housework as from
Evening star., 1909-07-10
Of Embroidered Net

ming may be put on with very little
labor.
*
Very fine embroideries are also charm
ing on boudoir negliges. but as very
limp. soft effects are the rule. only the
finest embroideries may be used. the
coarser sorts becoming too heavy after a
laundering.
Two bewitching boudoir gowns are
shown among the illustrations. and both
of these garments have been designed
for a bride of the early summer The
seated figure shows a rose pink neglige
of very thin Japanese silk. as cool as
batiste, and this neglige, while being un-
mistakably boudoir garment. is made a
bit more formal In character by the style
Of the sleeve and by the shirring which
confines the garment at the waist. This
rose pink beauty came from Paris and is
rather elaborate In style, but though
quantities of lace have been used. the
general design could be copied very
easily. The fiounce. In graduated layers.
and reaching we'll above the knees, gives
the skirt very beautiful, flowing lines,
Evening star., 1909-07-10

This coat fad I'm neglige wear Is very
pronounced Tea coats are very smart,
indeed; and now, instead of using the
term dressing sacque." one speaks airily
room coats shown I'm the little importing
French shops are dears. and may be
picked up at surprisingly reasonable
prices. considering their Paris origin
Many Of them, for wear while the toilet
is being made, are of washable lawn or
dotted swiss with loose sleeves which
slip up on the arms and a graceful peplum
over the hips, joined to the upper por-
ton by ribbon-run beading.
To slip on hastily when one comes in
on a warm afternoon. and strips Off the
fitted frock of silk or mohair, there are
delightful lace and ribbon coatees, and
one of these is shown. Strips of val
lace and soft blue satin ribbon are run
together by hand, and the sleeves are
simply extensions of the short wasted
bodice. four wedge-shaped panels being
set in to give the sleeves a fiaring effect
at the bottom. The short-waisted upper
portion is attached to a coat skirt sec-
tion In which the ribbon and lace are set
on the bias.
Neglige capes are also ready to throw
over the shoulders when one is summoned
during the toilet by knock at the door
or when brief trip through. hall
way must be made from room to room.
A very graceful cape of this sort is made
OF sheer habutai silk, and is quite short
in front, rounding downward toward the
back. where 1t falls far below the waist
All around the edge of the cape is full
ruffie inset with lace Insertions and this
ruffie is caught together with blue rib
bons beneath the arm to form loose
sleeve. Similar ribbons tie the cape at
the bust. 1t is the matter of an instant
to slip this cape over the shoulders and
nothing ever devised in neglige wear
could be more charmingly feminine and
becoming.
One thrifty little woman hit upon a
capital plan for making her discarded
shirt waists do duty as charming negIi.
ge sacqueS The sheer blouse usually
wears away first over the shoulders and
around the collar. and, no matter how
daintily the mending is done. it spoils
the blouse for anything but home wear
me worn portion this woman cut away
making her neeiise N-shaped at the neck
The blouse. which. like most of last sea
sons styles, buttoned down the back was
slashed open down the front and the
back was Joined together by panel OF
embroidery or lace insertion. Lace frill.
ing or fine embroidery Houncng then
made ruft1c all around the little sacaue
and the sleeves cut off to elbow length
or shorter. were finished by a similar
frill. With gay ribbon bows fastening tn
iioit anu oH the 1F1liy
sleeve. this shirt waist sacque became a
very captivating little garment indeed
::
The woman of refined taste always
wears very inconspicuous raiment when
travelling. and negiges of lacy, diapha-
nous character and bright colorings are
not donned by true gentlewomen when in
the public eye. A travelling kimono pref
Ireyt1 tn nn IriS n Spi "A
after train wreck--"the most charming
part of the accident" is made of natural
colored pongee with neat trimmings OF
navy blue foulard dotted with white. This
Evening star., 1909-07-10

are threaded through headings of fine
embroidery or buttonholed Sits in the
material the old-style lace beading being
used scarcely at all on high-grad gar
mentS.
In enumerating the few underiinens left
to us by an uncompromisinS edict for
slenderness. no mention is made of the
corset. The corset is. of course, taken
for granted. In fact. the corset is not
TO be considered as an undergarment at
all: it is the supreme motif around which
the whole harmony of costume is devel-
oped In most cases it is itself slender
ness. The discerning woman realizes fully
how much the success of her gown de-
pends on the corset beneath it, and spares
neither trouble nor expense in obtaining
just the right mold for her figure
This does not mean the most costly
corset to be had neither is it the COR
set which produces such marvellous re-
suits on a friend about her own build. -
1t is a corset selected by an expert filter
of corsets for her particular figure, and
then retitted gored, susseted or Topped
Evening star., 1909-07-10

and jupe combination by Jeanne Hallee
is shown, the two garments being in one
as far as the hip.
u
The very narrow drawer has been the
rule during the reign of the directoire
mode, and women who naturally dote
on frilly prettiness and who have accept
ed with resignation the tightly buckled
knicker and other unlovely directoire un-
dergarments are now returning glad
somely to gay little garments enticinsly
befrilled and ribbon garnished at the
lower edges.
Speaking of ribbons one notes that all
Evening star., 1909-07-10

HE process of elimination. as ap-
Piled to under raiment, has
been so thorough that now we
may consider ourselves lucky
to be allowed two garments 10
our back. And If the few
things We are permitted be not slimpsy
enough 10 crush into ball within our
fists, they will never meet the test OF
the new gowns skin tightness.
But IL the under linens of the moment
are soft as gossamer and fine as cob
webs, they are certainly not plain. GUAM
titles OF beautiful lace in medallions ana
insertions are set into sheer fabric. and
hand and machine made embroidertes or
exquisite delicacy are used. Fabulous
prices are paid by smart women for the
fragile lingerie petticoats which are worn
now beneath even street tailored costumes
of wool and mohair, silk and satin skirts
which have had long reign of practical
usefulness having been completely ousted
by the lingerie styles. Some of these
snowy oetticoats, seen below the lifted
street frocks, are So luxurious in charac-
ter that one feels j. is actually sinful to
expose anything so lovely TO the CRIME
Evening star., 1909-07-10

and the "angel" sleeves, falling over
smaller, puffed sleeves to the elbow, are
charmingly graceful.
The other peignoir, of pale blue messa-
line satin Is cut most simply, the lace
trimming covering almost the whole sur
face and giving the garment a very rich
and elaborate character. Neither of these
handsome negliges will be able to visit
the washtub, and only a brde-who is
allowed special extravaganza in her be-
longings-or the woman with a very long
purse. may indulge IN the luxury of such
boudoir garb. Nest OF US have to be con-
tent with pretty peignoirs of tub mate
rial. and there is no reason why these
should not be equally as becoming and
charming as the more impressive affair
of silk or satin. Either of the two negli-
ges shown could be copied with good
success in plain coiHed silk null and
lace, and the cost should be but a trifie.
When one and ones hostess sit around
before bedtime "cozeying," as our Eng
lish cousins say, for the benefit of ones
hostess and all the other women present,
ones most distracting neglige is donned
So exquisitely beautiful are some of these
room gowns that one does not wonder
at the daring prices asked for them by
their designers.
In some of the better-class shops one
Evening star., 1909-07-10

having corsets refitted. 1t is incredible
how many otherwise intelligent women
purchase a corset after simply looking
at it in the shop, or upon the advice of
friend who has found it satisfactory
In many cases the shortening of bone
here the inserting of a gore there, or
some other trifling alteration will give
just the desired line and perfect ease in
corset that otherwise is just a mite
too long or too high to be comfortable.
The new cOrsets most women will be
glad to learn, are much lower in the bust
than those which have been considered
correct during the past few seasons. 1t
is whispered also that Waists are to be
nipped in. as the corset filter express
es 1t. Already some Of the French dress
makers who are launching the new Louis
and Vatican effects are advising that the
corset laces be loosened over the hips and
drawn more tightly at the waist. AS long
however. as the slender, straight lines
of the Moyen age frock remain popular
1t is probable that hiplessness will be con-
sidered more elegant than tiny waist
measure.
Evening star., 1909-07-10
Embroidered
White eAlDatrosS
Tea Gown.

pattern, with rose-colored ribbon belt and
bows, should cost but a trifie and will
be daintily cool and fresh. as we'll as
very easily adjusted on hot summer
mornings.
If the summer is to be spent at hotel
or large boarding house the little break
fast gown, of course, cannot be worn;
but there should be a more informal gar
ment for possible breakfasts in ones
room. and COOL comfortable peignoirs in
which to lounge during the afternoon
nap" hour in the heat of the day. Such
negliges do not make any pretense of
being other than they are-loose, COM
Portable peignoirs-in which one would
not dream of appearing outside of ones
room They may be in kimono style of
thin silk or batiste, or they may be-and
these are daintiest of all-of sheer white
lawn or dimity, all afiuff with soft frills
and gay with fluttering ribbons. Lace
insertions and medallions are so cheap
now that a perfect dream of a peignoir
may be contrived for few sollars, and
the cut of these loose garments is SO I'M
pie that a generous amount of lace trim
Evening star., 1909-07-10
Home and Hotel Neg
lige Wear Differ.
Soft, Chiffony Ef-
fects Are Desirable.
Stunning Boudoir
Gowns for Coun-
try Visiting The
Neglige Coat Fad.

NE spends much
more time on neg
lige through the
on e S u m m e +
months than dur
ing the busy win
ter, when shop
ping, bridge. matt
nees, teas and call
ing consume the
afternoon hours,
which in summer
are deliciously idle.
- -,
Evening star., 1909-07-10
The Aeroplane Dress.

ERENCHWOMEN,w who seem far ahead
! of some of the rest of their sisters
in courage, make frequent trips-or;should
one say, fiights-into the upper air The
aeroplane journey calls for special cos
tume-as every pastime in France does
and the aeroplane dress is something like
an exaggerated gymnasium suit with full
boomers instead of a skirt. These bloom
ers fasten abou. the knee and the full
material bags over, covering the limbs
almost entirely. And instead of the gym
suit blouse there is neatly fitted Moyen
Age bodice coming below the hips. at
which point the bloomers are attached
Evening star., 1909-07-10
) Room 5dcque
of Blue RlDbon and Lace

may pick up very lovely peignoirs and
boudoir gowns which are copied from
French models, yet are not marked with
prohibitive prices for the average pocket
book. and If one is invited to spend a
week, or even a weekend. at very
smart country house, the prettiest
neglige one can provide must be carried
along Some of the boudor gowns worn
at these weekend ''cozeyings" are hard
to tell from dinner gowns, so closely
have the Greek drapery and tune effects
of the present mode been followed. There
are lace tunics falling full length over
crepe de chine and satin slips. and there
are gorgeous satin coats mounted over
lace-like underrobes.
A much admired neglige of the latter
style was the one worn by Miss Frances
Starr in THE Easiest Way" This negli-
ge included a trailing gown of lovely
limpness. made of pure white chiffon,
honeycombed with lace and falling
straight from neck to heels over a slip
of soft mousselne. Over this chiffon
tunic-a complete and charming negiige
in itself-was worn a dashing coat of
bright ciel blue satin-alnost turquoise
in shade. The coat fastened at the bust
with single loop and button, and slant
ing away to show the robe beneath, fell
to the wearer's feet in the back.
Evening star., 1909-07-10
Paragraphs.
Corset and Petticoat in One.

Corset and Pettlcoat in One.
& ONE of the very smart corset shops
~ are showing extra long corsets with
hip yokes of soft. unboned material, fit
ting the hips and thighs like glove.
At the lower edge of this hip yoke is set
an embroidery beading wide enough for
half-inch ribbon, and d oetticoat hounce,
headed with a similar beading. may be
attached in jiffy by threading the two
headings together Thus corset and petit
coat are in one perfectly fitting sheath
like garment with the least possible bulk
over the hips. Several f1ounces could be
provided. some of lingerie fabric, others
of soft satin or messaline.
Evening star., 1909-07-10

the really smart lingerie shows much
wider ribbons threaded through the bead
ings and knotted into bows, This, pre-
bly,. because SO much of the fac
tory-made underwear is trimmed with
the now commonplace bebe ribbon. Half
rect, and these rather expensive ribbons
Evening star., 1909-07-10

and hard wear of the pavements, and
that such petticoats should be kept for
ballroom frocks or for wear with dainty
negliges. which would at least reveal
their beauty.
The Durham recorder. [volume] (Durham, N.C.) 1879-19??, 1909-03-19
uniuslIx Elame J.

Speaking 81 tie unreliahility Of
circunslantial evidence, d lawyer
ail:
ISLANDERS Mcdowell. coal HEAVIER
ii PEBBLES, said angrily to his wife
one night:
"'liasers, Lispeth, hoo many
times am ID tell ye | Wilma lac
the children bringin' up coal il ~
top hat
".IIoot, Sanders. mon, be rca.
sonabIe,' said Lispeth. 'Yc've spoilt
the shape o the top bat wi yer fun
ny head Already. an. since ye're
heayin' coal all day, wot can q little
extra coal dust in the headpicce
matter.
Woman. ye dinna grasp ma ar-
gymcnt, said Sanders. 4 only wear
that top hat in the evenin'. an If
I'm DOT an TAX il OF il leaves i
hlaek band around mn forehead.
What's the rasoolts Why, I'm ac.
cuscd on all sides o. vashin' ma face
VII ma hat on '-St. Louis Globe
Democrat.
The Durham recorder. [volume] (Durham, N.C.) 1879-19??, 1909-03-19
Easy 10 Initiate.

Those who Ike to think that things
were better in the ''old days" than they
are now will find il hard to disagree
with the following anecdote from
Judge: \ newly married couple had
had little disagreement about the
mullins. The husband complained that
those his mother used to make we're
far superior This moved the girl TO
action, and the next day She set before
him a plate Of bot rolls which she
boldly baGe him taste
Snow you have iii it,,n be exclaimed
enthusiastically These are exactly
Hike what mother used to make. How
did yen 10 III"
Il win give you tile recil5e' replied
the bride e0ldly, II used oltOmargarine
for butter, cold storage eggs. pun alum
IN the flour and added chalk and water
10 the milk Your mother lived before
the pure food laws"
The Durham recorder. [volume] (Durham, N.C.) 1879-19??, 1909-03-19
/. s. w.

Receiver Alamance Furniture Co,
Mebane. y. G.
The Durham recorder. [volume] (Durham, N.C.) 1879-19??, 1909-03-19
PARIS PAWNSHOPS.
Run by tho State, They Are Boon to
All Glasses Of People.

\ 4If
The "mont-de-piete," as the
French equivalent Of the pawnshop
is called, Is state institution. Con-
eeouently there is not that. friendly
communion between the lender and
the client that one sees in London,
There is no "priyate Office"
where the person temporarily en-
barrasscd for money may screen
himself from inquisitive eyes.
Ii you are il want Of money and
YOU have any portable property Of
the value OF francs or more you
take it to the nearest branch Office
of the ''mont-de-piete.'
The first thing that meets your
paze is i guard municipal patrol
ing up and down the pavement out
side tile entrance.
With d feeling Of wholesome re-
spect for the majesty Of the law,
YOU now enter d large room, Of
which one side is occupied BY
benches livery hard aud uncomforta-
BE ones) and the other BY half a
dozen employees behind a counter.
Having handed your property 70
i clerk whose desk bears the in
scription. reception Of Articles
You receive numbered metal check
il exchange and then join the ranks
81 the expectant borrowers on the
benches.
There are all sorts and conditions
II men and women. from tile work
eirl Who BRINGS her Sunday hat to
the great lady who brings her
jewels ard whose motor car i watt
inc Ii the street.
But il there i no fraternity in
tie mont-ae-pietc there il III least
enuahty, ard np precedence il given
ID wealth. or fashion
Whca tie value III your property
has leon esdwated ii another room
clerk calls ont your number and
the amount offered, which you can
aceeat II refuse. 1t Il never more
fhan half tie lowest selling price oi
the object. as The yalucr Is response
lie lpf any loss arising from unre-
deemed pledges. III you accept his
ozer YoHr name. address and pro-
fessan are taken down III another
eleFs, aaa Won must produce papers
ID establish yoar identity.
Iae interest charged IS only Per
cert FIT aannm. and there i ~
da. aat Tile state pawnshops rrn.
der e services q al classes 81
IfeHsH 8ale.-Londnn Standard.
The Durham recorder. [volume] (Durham, N.C.) 1879-19??, 1909-03-19
he knen..

They we're country people pure
and simple, hnt they had read the
papers and thought they we're edu-
Gated up to all the Improvements Of
d city. When they went to Wash
ington they went through the navy
department and saw the models Of
our ships Of war. Pointing TO a
companion ladder hanging over the
side Of one 81 the boats, she asked
her better half what it was.
"0h, that's the fire escape" re-
piled the husband. -Lippincott's
The Durham recorder. [volume] (Durham, N.C.) 1879-19??, 1909-03-19

There i certain Wilmington
business man. Of j rather waggish
disposition. who contends that his
wife tbs ~ Imagination. At dinner
one night hc Glanced ID mention
i tragic circumstance he had read
in the evening paper On his way
home. 4 passenger On transatlan-
tic steamer bad fallen overheard in
midocean. md he had never been
seen again. WAS he drowned z"
asked hs wife. "Of course not,y
answered the irrcpressible hubby,
Int be sprainei bis ankle, be
lieye. - Argonaut