The Washington herald., 1909-02-14
4 GREAT MONASTERY
SoIoYetsky Fine Example Of
Russian Architecture.
IN LAND OF MIDNIGHT SUN
Ancient CIOtzter Built on Heights
Overlooking white Sea a Mass of
Strange IncongrHOus Buildings
Compared by Tourist to n Fairy
Palace TranspIanted North.

From ths LondOu Tines
Two DAYS voyage beyond the North
Cape in arctic regions, where in sum
mer there is 10 darkness and no light
in winter. lies the entrance 10 the White
Sea. Inclosed BY land. except for the
narrow straits, and deprived OF the in
fiuence Of the Gulf Stream. which on
the more exposed northwestern shores
of Norway renders the fjoTds ngvigabls
throughout the whole winter, this In
land sea presents at least one OF the
characteristics OF Central and Northern
Russia-the extreme OF heat and cold. In
winter its entire surface is frozen, but
during the long summer days the sun
burns fiercely and calls into sudden life
the coarse herbage and the soft green
leaves OF the silver birch and ash trees
that clothe its shores
We have been already some fourteen
hours steaming southwark IN the White
Sea. Before US lies a long, low island
covered with dense vegetation OF pins
and silver birch and iRden;ed with little
bays, their surface dotted with a sprink-
ling OF rocks. AS We turn the southeast
corner OF the island there comes into
view. rising above the dark foreground
Of pines. the high white towers, crowned
In domes and eupolas OF emerald green.
Of the great monastery Of Solovetsky,
one Of the richest and most celebrated
In all Russia, a mass Of strange, incOn-
gruous Oriental buildings Viewed from
the sea the monastery Is Ike a fairy
palace transplanted by magic from
some Indian or Persian city and set
down in the forest Of pines on this is-
land Of the frozen North
scenes Speak of Asia.
We disembark at a stone quay IN the
little port that faces the main entrance
Of the monastery. 1t it Asia that lies
before US: We seem 20 have left Europe
a thousand miles away. The crowd Of
strangely dressed monks and novices.
the moujiks even. with their narrow
eyes and tangled heads and boards. and
the buildings themselves. from the
gilded SUBMITS OF their towers 20 the
great wall OF undressed powders, worn
by ice and water into curious smooth
Mound shapes long before they were
tGDtFlNNSlF llALtA INTO NA+F-s F+N7F4tN P+Ss-
ton. all speak Of Asia
Above the great inclosirg wan and ex-
tending the entire circUT ference OF the
monastery run ramparts pieced for de-
Z fense and covered with a roof painted
crimson. At the corners are towers Of
the same height and character as the
walls themselves. except that above
/ them the roofs rise 10 8 great height
IN the form OF immense red extinguish-
ers. Over this encirciing line OF red ap-
pears the high white walls q the build
ings within the vast inclosure. tier above
tier, until. crownIng al. rise the towers
with their green GOmes and cupolas OF
the churches and belfries.
A great porch. Chinese in form and in
! its crude coloring supported by stunted
/ fantastic pillars, overhangs the entrance
I OF the dark archway that pierces the
I Immense thickness OF the outer walls.
I We 20 past iron bound doors, hung with
/ uncouth padlocks and bolts that would
seem 10 require the strength Of giants
+ 10 uaneuvers: past walls formed OF
blocks OF undresseG stone. CyciOpean in
their size: through deep arches where
/ the almost perpetual sunshine q the
( summer never penstratss 20 illumine
the half seen saints on the fTescoed
walls.
/ Here is the twinkle Of a little lamp
burning before some sacred ikOn. OF the
/ speck OF light given forth by a taper Of
/ fered 10 some holy shrine half concealed
/ in the thickness OF the wall: there a
beggsr. recalling the frozen North and