Los Angeles herald., 1909-03-30
RICH CASHMERE
AND "TUB" GOWNS

A soft and silky kind of cashmere,
scarcely to be distinguished in appear
ance from crepe de chine, is the favor
lite fabric of the moment, so far as
afternoon dresses are concerned, says
a New York authority. 1t is known as
"cachemire de soie," and well deserves
its very attractive title, since there APP
pears to be considerably more of silk
than of wool in its composition.
Some exceedingly graceful frocks in
this new cashmere are being arranged
en- princesse, with skirts which fit
quite closely to the region of the waist,
although they are fully draped half
way between the knees and the hem
with soft folds, which are caught to-
gether with motifs of various shapes,
carried out in padded rouleaux of satin.
matching exactly the color of the cash
mere.
Orchid MauVe
A pretty cashmere gown. of this de-
scription, chosen in new tone of or
child mauve, is made in the form Oh
princess robe, so far as the lower part
of the bodice and the upper part of the
skirt are concerned, but from little
distance below the waist the folds OF
cashmere are draped in such way
that they give tablier effect. They
are lifted slightly on both sides, to re-
veal an underskirt of plain cashmere,
buckles of glace silk in the same shade
of mauve embroidered with tiny sprays
of dark violets and green leaves. TO
fill in the upper part of the bodlce tnere1
is a chemisette of tucked mauve net,
arranged with long close fitting sleeves
to match, and lined with ivory-white
satin On the front of the bodice there
is very pretty embroidery, represent
ing clusters of dark violets and green
leaves, with few single blossoms scat
tered here and there.
In Charmeuse
Yet another charming afternoon frock
made in lavendergra stain charmeuse
with perfectly plain under robe OF the
satin, fitting closely to the figure ana
made with long train. Hanging loose
ly from the shoulders there is tun1c
Of silk net in the same fascinating
shade of gray, adorned with oxidised
silver and partly in gray floss silk and
lacet braid to match. This tunic is nm
ished both back and front with wide
gray silk fringe, intermingled with
threads of silver. The bodice is filled
in with gray Alencon lace and net,
while the long sleeves, which come |
little distance below the wrist, consist
of alternate bands of gray lace and net,
arranged to run horizontally.
There was a time when the tailored
gown meant cloth, and fairly heavy
quality at that; then lighter weights
and heavy pongee silks were included
in the tailor's stock The midsummer
costume now requires coat, and our
tailor does not go out of business when
his early spring season closes. his or
der book is filled up to the middle or
the end OF July, and his summer STOCK
includes all varieties of the pongee
weave, besides the white ana coloreo
costume linens.
Dressmalkers and the home sewers go
one step further when they make the
Scotch ginghams, percales ana goods Oh
q like weight, with tailored finish.
Tailoring the tub gown, whether it be
the two-piece dress or the princess Ell
feet. is a method with two excellent re-
suits Tailoring means the strengthen |
ing of a fairly low-priced material, ana
II means very good style for the simple |
morning street dress Any woman is
more willing to appear in the Well
made, well-stitched cotton gown that,
therefore. has a snap to it, than she
would be to wear slung-togeeiiesr
dress bearing the combined stamp. or
rapid sewing and a bargain price
Nothing could save it from being mis-
taken for Just a fair looking working
dress.
To tailor the tub gown means only a
little bit more trouble, and is not half
co difficult as it sounds. 1t does not
mean that one must have learned the
tailor's art. But simply that one must
Ieave a good sized seam everywhere
throughout the bodice and skirt por-
tions. and whether these seams be
turned together underneath or merely
overcast they are stitched fiat once or
twice on the right side after the gown
is pressed. The bodice seams should
he stitched down before the. sleeves
Are nut in; the skirt seams done be-
fore the hem is turned up. If there are
blouse or skirt pleats, very nice
tailor's touch is the row of stitching
near the fold of the pleat.