davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08
Dressing the Hair Low

OAeoSiilS tue I1dll LOW
The chignon dressing is also very
popular. tits made from the same kind
OF switch as the Roman braid, its sizl
depending upon the length and fu1nest
OF the switch. The method is extremely
simple The switch is twisted between
the hands in moderately tight twist,
then doubled, end to end when the two
sides twist together of their own accord
1t is then doubled once more and the
chlgnon is formed, ready to pin on.
This style is somewhat more elaborate,
though it is extremely youthful. The
waved hair is parted at the side and
combed high on one side and low on tho
other. Three short curls are pinned al
the left side of the chignon, and loor
comb is placed at the side of the crown
Transformers
Dressing with transformer is also in
vogue for formal occasions. For this
separate waved piece-known as half
transformation and woven in one lins
like fringe-is applied, avoiding the
necessity of waving ones own hair. A
whole Transformation is, as it's name
implies, a worker of wonders. It il
woven on net, in the natural hair out
line; at each point fine spring is en-
cased, and holds the piece close to tho
head
For person who has lost her hair OF
who finds it impossible to arrange it, the
whole transformation has all the advan.
tages and none of the disadvantages 81
a wig, as it is simply the broad, close
hitting outline. but has no middle portion
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

weight material, whether silk or wool
than milliners' folds
They may be slip-stitched so that they
simulate nuns tucl1s-when the making
of the skirt will be much simpler than #
the skirt is really tucked-or the stitch
ing may be visible, the small heading
showing as an added piping or cording.
The method of making is shown in the
Illustration.
Milliners' Folds
It is important that the material be
cut on true bias. if the folds are to
have good shape To cut bias
properly one corner of the material
should be turned over on the remainder
OF the goods. making the sewage tie
evenly with crosswise thread; pin it in
this position, then run the scissors along
the diagonal that is formed by turning
over the corner
Each strip must be carefully measured
before it is cut, and when the strips are
narrow they may be cut more accurately
II the space is measured and the cutting
lines marked with tailors' chalk, using
yard-stick to keep the lines straight.
Measure carefully from one line to the
next and keep the lines parallel. When
enough have been marked cut them
apart along the chalked line.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

enough otherwise. Stitch the strips to-
gether, along the straight edges, and
press the seams open Hold the strip
WIN the seam toward you, turn over
one-halt or fve-eighths Of an inch at the
top, and basic it.
Turn up the lower edge, turn it under
a seam and haste it about one-quarter
OF OF an inch below the upper fold edge.
Inc two portions may be slip-stitched
together. or row of machine stitching
may be made at the lower turned edge
The folds are usually applied to the skirt
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

ing long narrow face needs the hair
prominently arranged at the sides, while
E: wide full face is proportioned by dress
ing high above the forehead; but there
are many notifications of these general
rules and each must find out by expert
ment what is most suitable. There are
few women to whom the blown-about,
frowzy state of even naturally curly hair
is becoming.
A young woman may look a picture
when she comes in from a brisk walk,
with high color and fascinating tendrils
OF hair blown about her face, but it is
not a picture for permanent framing and
is admirable only on occasion. Well
cared-for, glossy hair, with just sug-
gestion of wave, becomingly arranged is,
perhaps the most important step to-
ward the well-groomed appearance that
is by no means entirely matter of
clothes
Abundance of Hair Unnecessary
1t is not necessary that one possess an
abundance of hair-in fact, most hair
dressers prefer to arrange hair that is
comparatively scant 1t is always pos
sible to add a puff here and curl there
that will fill in deficiencies, yet remain
Light in both weight and appearance
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08
THE PREVAILING MODES IN
HAIR DRESSING
The Contour of the Face should be the
Guide for STYLE

The added pieces may be made of ones
own comblngs, and there is no longer
a prejudice against the attachment of
these small separate pieces, providing
always that the matter is not overdone
and light, natural effect is retained.
Marcel waving, carefully done is the
flrst step, and unfortunately it is not DOS
slble to do this satisfactorily oneself. A
good halrdresser makes these undula-
tons look extremely natural, and if the
hair is waved " twice a week it will re-
tam the smooth look and not become
fr1zZy with subsequent combing.
There are several patent appliances
for sale in which one may do up ones
hair tor an hour or so, at the end of
which time it will be nicely waved. and
while these may not give the regular and
continuous fluctuations made by good
ha1rdresser, they are infinitely to be pre-
TERED to poor waving with the heated
IRON, both for appearance and the sake
of the hair itself
Marcel Waving
Only small portion of the hair is
separated all around from the rest; this
is waved, then a roll of hair or a waved
PonPadour-Pad is pinned to the head
and the waved hair is drawn over it;
the remainder of the hair is then ar
ranged in coil in pufs or in any be-
coming fashion.
A very popular style has the hair
dressed in coronet or Roman braid
made of long, stemless switch and ap-
Piled after the pompadour is arranged.
A small pin-curl. used with this, is com
posed of short, naturally curly hair,
arranged on a long double wire by which
it may be secured to the hair 1t is used
to fill in the outline of the pompadour
when the hair grows high on the
temple
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08
THE BUSINESS SIDE OF
HOUSEKEEPING
Marketing and Buying for the Family

The economical woman would also
prepare black beans in soup that would
do duty as mock turtle and cost much
less The freless cooker would reduce
the cost to little more than the cost of
the dried beans. Lentils would also fur
n1sh delicious water soup instead of
using more expensive soup made with
stock
Again, the economical woman will ask
for the bones for which she pays when
she buys chops or steak, and use them
for her soup-pot If she uses little meat
she will invest in a jar of beef extract
at a cost which seems high; her wise use
OF this extract for making quick con-
sonme" will demonstrate that she OBJ
tains her moneys worth She has really
saved in fuel and time and material and
has practically the same kind of SOUP
she would have had for consomne.
Use of Canned Goods
1t is more economical to purchase a
can OF boned chicken for twenty-five
cents than to purchase chicken and
prepare it for such things as salad or
croquettes A chicken for twenty-five
cents in many communities would fur
nish very little Where chickens are
cheap, OF course the canned goods would
figure higher.
Evaporated or dried fruits are yery
desirable when carefully prepared, and
result in comPotes equal to the expen-
slve ones They form an agreeable sub
sstitute for fresh fruits and cost much
less The woman who saves knows how
to develop flavors by combining fruits.
For. instance. she will use evaporated
apples for foundation, and just enough
OF the more expensive dried apricots to
give a delicious flavor She will know
the value of combining apples and black
berries, making the final cost of her COM
Pote quite reasonable.
One phase of substitution which is
false economy is in the use of cheap
cooking material The so-called cook
ing butter and eggs are examples.
Whether cheap or dear, the quality of
an article should be above reproach; its
form may be open to criticism, but that
can probably be improved Such is not
the case with butter and eggs usually
sold for cooking The composition has
changed until the articles are past the
stage of wholesomeness If that has not
occurred, it is often true of butter that
it is poorly worked and full of water,
adding to the weight and price or else
composed of cheap fats
Such things as broken rice or broken
nuts are entirely different Their quail
ity is uninjured, and the appearance in
soups or croquettes or buildings would
be satisfactory Even served plain the
rice would look well if carefully pre-
pared
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

lacks flavor; in December it is compare
lively cheap and at its best for eating
Eggs and butter also have n season
during which the price is lower than in
the winter months. Packing them away
in dry salt or brine is often practised by
the woman who counts the cost and tries
to furnish nutritious food to her family
Often it pays city dwellers to buy such
things as eggs and butter in large
quantities, from some distant farmer
The rates for freight or expressage do not
bring the cost up to market price, and
where several join in the investment thu
result is very satisfactory
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

or Lima beans, from botanical point
of view, might be absolutely useless for
food, because of their age or condition.
Often dealer will allow his vegetables
to be withered by the sun; in ordering
one is compelled to accept such things
or else return them and change ones
plans at the last minute
Sometimes one price is given the Gus
toner who orders by telephone or by the
shops messenger, and a lower price is
given the woman who personally in
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

cheapest It is made cloak wherewith
to hide woful extravaganza There are
many who, through instinct or training
or both, cannot get away from the feel
ing that they should be economical The
feeling is as far as they go, however,
Tor in every possible way they practise
extravaganza There is always the
guilty conscience, but there is also the
stronger objection to exerting them
selves enough to do what really takes
thinking and planning.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

Calculating the amount contained in
purchases and knowing just how far
each should go forms very desirable
check on too frequent buying. Some
times goods purchased in large cans or
jars cost less in proportion and would
60 farther were it not that they cannot
be used up readily and are liable to spoil.
Sometimes the articles can be put into
several smaller cans and used to adj
vantage The close buyer knows how
to keep her olives from spelling after
the can is opened, and she also keeps her
marrnaiade jars covered closely and the
preserve scraped from the sides SO that it
isall alike in texture. until nothing is left.
False Ideals
A vast deal of Ease economy is
preached from the text: The best is the
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08
Buying in Large Quantities

The economical woman sometimes
spends money in rather large amounts,
because it pays in the end She will on
occasion buy large piece of meat and
arrange with the butcher to keep it for
her and cut it up as needed.
The economical woman knows that
homemade bread is cheaper than bakers
even IN first cost She knows that the
final cost OF the bakers loaf is increased
because of the added food she must fur
nish her family if they are to be we'll
fed. The nourishment and satisfaction
are not easy to calculate, but they are
important factors to be considered in
buying
Eggs furnish the same kind of nour-
ishment as meat. and even when quite
high in price are cheaper than meat
The woman who buys economically
spends for eggs and saves in non-essen-
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08
Gu;al aAs~Ayv
VEAL AND HAM HASH

Mix cold roast veal and cold boiled
ham, each chopped fine. in the proper
tons of two-thirds of the former to one
third of the latter; add little minced
onion, season to taste and moisten thor
oughly with hot water. Turn into
buttered baking-dish cover with thir
layer OF grated bread-crumbs and dol
with butter. Bake twenty minutes in
hot oven. Serve hot with tomato sauce
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

apply the fold to the skirt upside down
(elther slip or Misunderstanding it), with
the heading at the lower edge and not
attached to the skirt.
Plaln folds of cloth should be cut
crosswlse of the goods; broadcloth NAV
pe TORN across, assuring an even grain
Make them just twice the width desired
lot the completed fold or strap, and over
hand the raw edges loosely together, as
shown in the illustration. Press on the
wrong side, bringing the overhanded
edges in the center
Silk Bias Folds
Silk folds are usually cut bias, and
homemade appliance, by which thew
may be accurately and quickly made, is
shown in the illustration. Cut the bias
strips twice the width of the desired
told, stitch them together, making the
seams at the selvages and press the
seams open
Cut short strip of thick cardboard
the width of the completed fold. Wrap
around it two or three times a piece of
thin card-a postal card answers CAPT
tally: Wrap thread around this a
number OF times or preferably paste
the edge; lay it under book or an iron
until the paste is dry, then remove the
piece OF thick card that is inside, and, in
place OF it, run the silk folded, with the
raw edges meeting in the center Press
with warm iron, and pushing the card
along, forming and pressing the fold at
the same time
1nterlining
When a shaped strap or tab is to be
made it should be interlined with light
weight French canvas. Cut the canva,
the exact size, allowing no turnings, and
make the material seam larger on all
edges: Basic the canvas and material
together, then turn over the edges of the
cloth and haste around. Cut the lining
a little larger than the canvas, haste
through the center to the canvas and
cloth, then turn under the edges and fell
them to the materials turned over edges.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

the latter until the salt is dissolved and
then beat in the oil until thoroughly
mixed; pour over the salad by teaspoon
tuls, SO it will be well distributed, and
set in a cool place until needed for serv-
ing. If the flavor of onion is not dis
liked, rub the vinegar bowl with slice
or mince medium-sized onion and
sprinkle over the salad before adding
the dressing For company, ring Of
mayonnaise or whipped cream can
garnish the dish, and when ready to
serve mix and toss into the vegetables
with a folk and spoon
This salad dressing can be used with
any combination of vegetables; for in
stance, cubed beets. boiled potatoes cut
into small pieces, peas, asparagus. string
beans and carrots, canned corn drained
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

TIL arrangement
= of the hair is a
most important CON
sideration in the gen
eral aPPeara n c e,
though it does not
always receive the
attention it deserves.
While certain fash
ions may be said to
prevail, the only i'm
portant point is be-
corningness.
Generally speak
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

NOV that trim
l med skirts are
in high favor once
more and the plain
skirt is the exception
it is well to know the
correct method of
preparing some of
the strappings and
folds that are SO ex-
t e n S i v e | y u S e d.
There is no more use
full kinds< trimming
for a .seirt of light
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

the beans are the small string variety they
can be used whole, otherwise cut them
into inch pieces. Arrange the peas in
the center Of a cold dish, then place the
carrots about and the beans in a circle
outside these. For one-half pint of each
vegetable this amount of dressing will
be sufficient Place five tablespoonfuls
of olive oil in bowl. In another bowl
place three tablespoonful of cider vim
egar. one rounding teaspoonful Of SALT
one-half teaspoonful of pepper and one
half teaspoonful of dry mustard; mix
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08
TRIMMING THE SKIRT
Recent Paris Models deliberately Decorated:
How it is Done
How it is Done

A Novel Method
The milliners fold is made double,
and each strip must be twice the finished
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08
Macedoine Salad

Freshly opened canned goods can be
used or the leftovers, just as is most con-
venient Cut the carrots into strips II
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08
Following the Market

tials, such as bakers cake and cheap
candies
Following the Market
Paying attention to the natural season
of fruits and vegetables is another mat
ter understood by the good buyer.
Tomatoes, Strawberries and eggplant
are much more delicious in SUMMER and
at their cheapest, but in January they
lack in taste and gain in cost. An
orange in September is expensive and
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

d plus two by stitching
oe loWed on material
tnaS Tavel but oeonrth inch will be-
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

One does much better, in buying, to
WIS v1s1t the markets and inspect the goods
w hat could truthfully be called tomatoes
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-08

A vast deal of Ease economy is
preached from the text The best is the
The Boise citizen. (Boise, Idaho) 1906-1910, 1909-03-19

issue that government soooooo than the syndicate
offered
The part the New York World took in the exposure of the life
insurance steals well known need no comment
Now indicted the charge of criminal libel in
necon with the Panama scandal Writing of this Creean says
Those who Joseph Pulitzer realize that he would be
powerful in prison than of it, and that the prospect Of
death itself could shake his determination say what he has
say prove that Publicity publicity publicity the greatest
factor public fegreae than presidents congresses gov
ernments"
The Boise citizen. (Boise, Idaho) 1906-1910, 1909-03-19

Some has up fad in Biiken the god of things
they But Blken postal card and pottery and ewey
already back number for the world and the things that
are" pass quickly into the things that have been"
The Booster page The Citizen proving very popular
The Boise citizen. (Boise, Idaho) 1906-1910, 1909-03-19

The police force is the stone of political ma
chine that seeks control without regard to the peoples will
The Boise citizen. (Boise, Idaho) 1906-1910, 1909-03-19

They surely going sister state OF Washington
general appropriation bill carries expenditures the amount
of S1000O,O00
The Montgomery advertiser. [volume] (Montgomery, Ala.) 1885-1982, 1909-09-05

20 years old. So realistic setting handling
were these novels that until threw off the mask
of anonymity, they believed have been written
by ex-cavalry officer
The older generation will recall her "Regmental
Martyrs" THE Ordeal by Paint" "Regimental
Legends" ION the March" Garrison Gossip" Mig
mons Secret" "a Siege Baby" Beautiful Jim of the
Blankshire Regiment" and Mrs. Bob"
Those who have come TO love her novels later re-
member best "A Bameless Woman" Heart and
Sword" THE Married Miss Bnks." "A Blaze of Glory.
Marty" and "Cherrys Child"
Mrs. STANDARDS claim to fame rests chiefly on
Bottles Baby" which appeared a serial. 1t is
tale of military life. cleverly written, and
compasses the Baby" with such inehable charm
that. one critic said, she is human cannot
help loving her" The fascination is found in
"Cherry's Child"
Within the last twenty eight years Mrs. Stannard
has given ninety nine works public. The hun
dred mark will be reached in the fall when the book
on which Mrs Stannard is working is expected
appear.
At the start of her Mrs. Stannard was a
frequent contributor to the Chronicle. In 1891
she founded Winters Magazine. She has occasionally
written under the pseudonym of Violet White
In 1884 Mrs. Stannard married Arthur Stannard.
a civil engineer. Before her marriage she was Miss
Henrietta Eliza Vaughn Palmer. The STANDARDS have
The Montgomery advertiser. [volume] (Montgomery, Ala.) 1885-1982, 1909-09-05

Aorsas%A pestas mat OF superintendent of the Chi
cago schools.
But that slender little widow, 81 years old during
her first week superintendent engaged 1000 teach
eRs dismissed 1antors. conferred with dozen
district superintendent held sessions with 100 prin
cipals and personally through bushels of letters
besides graphing with the receiv
ing numberfess congratulatory visits
Mrs. Young believes these facts indicate that.
the holding the most important executive posi-
tion held by woman in America, she is earning
her $4,000 year much any of her male prede-
In criticisms Mrs Young
expressed herself with characteristic earnestness
Women are destined to rule the schools of every
city" SHE declared look for large majority the
big cities to follow the lead of Chicago in choosing
woman for superintendent In the future
viii have more women than men In executive charge
of the vast educational systems 1t is
field and she Is longer satisfied do greatest
The Montgomery advertiser. [volume] (Montgomery, Ala.) 1885-1982, 1909-09-05

"HE strange part OF her career is. ought to be-
that she worked for half a dozen years before
she earned anything. But a stranger part
that now, with all that enormous OF
work to her credit. she doesn't earn much
Her father, the Rev. Henry Vaughn Palmer the
rector of ST. Margaret's. / York, an artillery
officer before he became clergyman. His reminis-
of the service made quite impression his
daughter supplied her with material qualifying
her to be literary expert in British army life
Her knowledge of military customs and incidents
proved rich. and her treatment subject
skfu. that Ruskn, in a letter to the London Daily
Telegraph, referred to her the author to whom
the finished and faithful rendering
yet given the character of the British soldier"
She began writing under the nom de plume of
John Strange Winter. Her great successes were
sketches Cavalry Life" published 1881; Mig
non: or Bottles Baby" "Houp-la," in 1885.
When "Bootles' Baby" her popularity she
The Montgomery advertiser. [volume] (Montgomery, Ala.) 1885-1982, 1909-09-05
ION Her NNNdrodN Novel I

four children. and three daughters Mr. Stan
nard takes of all his wife's business
most of her correspondence
But the world owes to John Strange Winter a far
greater debt than that of all her hundred plots put
gether Perhaps it may be cruel kindness to reveal
her highest claim to human gratitude The tyrants of
fashion, they learn who it is who balks their
fell designs for the fearful crinoline, declare
anathema her and all her hundred works. But
truth will prevail
She. and she alone. with the aid her good steel
pen, has saved civilization from the return of the
hoopskirt.
During May. 1906 Mrs stannard. hearing that Paris
threatened revival OF crinoline, wrote to the
papers. calling upon the women of Great Britain to
themselves and avoid such an awful fate She
said that twelve years before. she had stopped
revival the horror by getting $1,000 women to
write postcards pIedging themselves to oppose the
wearing of crnOline and that she intended to form
another protective league of the same nature.
Mrs STANDARDS favorite recreation when not en-
gagged literary work the study of skin and hair
culture She is proprietor of numerous toilet prep
arations
For a number of years the Stannards resided in
living quietly Dieppe. where they occupied
a roomy house in heart of the town. in the Rue
d'Ecosse, o prefecture Their present
home is York House. Nottingham, s. W.. London