Omaha daily bee., 1909-09-04

mating the look Of the finest English vi
cunas, loosely cut, simply finished with
heavy buttons and stitching, we're the best
of the specimens OF ready to wear work.
Good as the TaiIOr's Work.
Notice those flannels,'' he said to the
reporter as he paused before the exhibit
Of a local firm of retailers that receives
Its supplies from a wholesale company up
the state. Those two suits on slender
men would not be better If they had been
made by the smartest Of tailors. The
length Is not exaggerated, as II Is In many
cases; the coats are not cut in too closely
at the waist, the sleeves are finished
merely with three buttons and the trou-
sers are built to follow the line of the leg
and do not look like mealsacks. The
double-breasted blue and white stripe as
well as the dark green with the gray stripe
could not be improved on. Ready to wear
clothing becomes a threat to the custom
men when such we'll done clothes are
turned out. Barring the tendency OF the
heavy sack coats to swoop down TO a point
in front, which is at present the worst
feature OF ready to wear clothes, the coats
are we'll cut. The shoulders no longer pro-
trude at each side as II the man inside
was a combination of Tom Sharkey and
Jim Jeffries, and there is a diminution in
the number Of queer cuffs. vertical pockets
and vents in the back which were visible
last year.
The thing that seems most difficult for
the ready to wear manufacturer to get
away from Is the heavy look over the
shoulders. 1t is noticeable even in the
best Of the dress coats, which ought to be
light II any garment SHOULD There Is no
reason why a dress suit or a dinner jacket
should have the look Of a foot ball jacket
over the shoulders. There are several rea-
sons why the ready to wear men find it
so hard to do away with this look. For
one thing 1t is much easier to make clothes
fit it they have 50 much padding In the
shoulders. ANY tailor is apt to fall into
that danger unless his customers watch
him. The custom tAiiors are not above the
trick. because they realize how much easier
that customer Is going to be to fit. So it is,
perhaps, not difficult to understand why
which makes It simpler for their clothes
to fit so many different kinds OF men.
Then there is still the survival OF tho
old college man idea that first. Impressed
the broad shouldered ideal on the men OIL
the country. These excessively broad coats
ara a thing OF the past so far as real
fashions so. II is a little bit difficult
away from them after a thralldom OF sew
however. for the manufacturers 10 gel
eral seasons in which nothing was con
sidered smart that was not also very broad.
English DO Not Approve.
English tailors cannot reconcile our
broad dress coats made by the custom
tailors with their ideals Of evening dress.
With them. the shoulders are natural in
width and their whole attempt is 20 make
the suit look dressy and what II Is to
our minds. finioky. Yet the complaint
against our taiIOrs used to be that they
did not make the shoulders broad in the
manner OF the British tailor. The Amen-
the ready to wear men cling 10 a device
the custom and the ready 70 wear work.
can has gotten bravely over that both In
Some OF the dress saits however, at
traeted' the attention of the expert, who
VAS, OF course, not prepared to find any