Arizona republican., 1909-04-17

of satins and satin finished woolens Cotton crepeS. too. will follow the lead of the handsome silk crepes, being made up into handsome gowns Tor the spring These weaveS. from the richest silk 10 the most inexpensive cotton, are ideal Poplins and their near relative. pique. are used for both ohildren's and ladies' costumes. and in cotton fabrics of this substantial weave the three piece costume will develop capitally. the coat being cut long and trimmed with self strappings and pearl buttons. Some bordered piques are shown, but they will probably be confined principally to ohil- dren's wear Printed piques are compar- atively new, especially the designs that alternate a solid color with a floral stripe. both on white ground There are the cotton tissues. some of them woven combination of the finest cotton and silk. and with stripes and dots of the silk thrown up on the dull ground.
 Soutache is being pushed somewhat into the background now by the Tat-t1ii braid which Paris and New York dress makers are putting on smart spring gowns. This new rat-tail braid IS much more supple and pliable than soutache and more intricate embroidery effects may be achieved with it. Its pure white. eatiny lustre is very effective in this case with costume of white self-striped mo hair The plain, straight lines of this gown are extremely smart and the heavy cord ornament at the front IS a new feature
 The iauntv linen and mohair two piece suits now being built by custom tailors for summer wear show very straight lines which define the figure scarcely at all All the new linen coats are quite long. coming to the knee or below, and the skirt beneath IS very simply cut. in a gored model Soutache embroideries make smart trimming for the linen or rnohair coat and skirt suit. and in the case of a washable suit the soutache should be we'll shrulken before being sewed to the fabric
 The Medieval Mode
 The ecclesiastical styles borrowed from the Middle Ages show StoleS. Surploes and other vestment effects brilliantly wrought with iridescent beads. sequinS and the like. The embroidered net stoles. or "tabliers." on the pink satin ball gown shown in the illustration are laced together with fine gold cords and the embroideries are done with iridesccft pink beads in round and oblong shapes. the flowers being made of silver and gold ribbons padded into relief effect. Over the shoulders. back and bust arc garland5 of pale pink and gray-blue silk roses
 The peacock gown shown here deTives its name from the pale peacock blue col or oi this gown. and the embroidered motif like a spread peacock tail al the erd of the train. The material IS ben galinc silk in the light blue green pea cock tone and there are appliques and embroidered patterns in bronze brown5 and darker peacock blue and gree-' shades. The "alms bag" hung at tte side by lorg chains of silk cord. IS de cidedly new style feature, just coming out in Paris.
 The most extreme features of the new medieval" mode, which IS prophesisd as a follower of the DiTectoire fashions, are embodied Tn the costume shown here with. Here is the long. fitted basquc with panel-pleated skirt below 1t; the square neck and close shoulder line: and notably the elaborate embroidery done with silk and soutache braid on net This gown. a walking costume of re seda green rnohair, has train attach ment which. when fastened to the drop skirt by means of snap catches, changes the little walking dress into trailing afternoon frock