The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-03-26

of satins and satin-fnished woolens. Cotton crepes, too, will follow the lead of the handsome silk crepes, being n1add up into handsome gowns for the spring. These weaves, from the richest silk to thd most inexpensive cotton, are ideal.
 Poplins and their near relative, pique, are used for both children's and ladies' costumes, and in cotton fabrics, of this substantial weave the three-pieca costume will develop capitally, the coat being cut long and trimmed with self strappings and pearl buttons. Some bordered piques are shown, but they will probably be confined principally to chll-s dren's wear. Printed piques are compar- atively new, especially the designs thai alternate a solid color with a floral stripe, both on white ground. There are the cotton tissues, some of them as woven combination of the finest cottou and silk, and with stripes and dots of thd silk thrown up on the dull ground
 Soutache is. being pushed somewhat into the background now by the rat-taii braid which Paris and New York dress makers are putting on smart spring gowns. This new rat-tail braid is much more supple and pliable than soutache and more intricate embroidery efecfs may be achieved with 1t. Its pure white. satiny lustre is very effective i'll this: casa with costume of white self-striped mo- hair The plain, straight lines of this gown are extremely smart and the heavy cord ornament at the front IS a new feature.
 ! The jaunty linen and mohair twoy piece suits now being built by custom tailors for summer wear show very straight lines which define the figure scarcely at all. All the new linen coats. are quite long, coming to the knee or below, and the skirt beneath IS very 1nIt <,l.> ernbroideries make smart trimming for the linen or mohair coat and skirt suit, and in the case of washable suit the soutache should be well shrunken before being sewed to the fabric.
 The Medieval Mode
 The ecclesiastical styles borrowed from the Middle Ages show stoles, surplices and other vestment effects brilliantly wrought with iridescent beads, seauins and the like The embroidered ret stoles, or "tab1iers,' on tic pink satin ball gown shown in the illustration are laced together with fine gold cords and the embroideries are done with iridescent pink beads in round and cblong shapes, the flowers being made os silver and gold ribbons padded into relief effect. Over inc shoulders, back and bust are garlands of pale pink and gray-blue silk roses
 The peacock gown shown here derives its. name from. the Iale peacock blue col. or of this gown, and the embroidered motif like "a spread peacock tail at the end of the train. The material IS ben galine silk in the light blue-green pea cock tone and there are appliques and embroidered patterns in bronze browns and darker peacock blue. and green shades. The ."alms bag, hung at the side by long chains of silk cord, is de- cided1y new style feature, just coming out in Paris.
 The most extreme features of the new "medievaP' mode; which is prophesied as a follower of the iDiTeetoire fashions, are embodied in the costume shown here with. Here is the long, fitted basque with panel-p1eated skirt below 1t; the square neck and close shoulder line; and notably the elaborate embroidery done with silk and soutache braid on nefs This gown, walking costume of re seda green mohair, has a train attach mert which, when fastened to the drop skirt by means of snap catches, changes the little walking dress into trailing afternoon frock.