New-York tribune., 1909-05-23

EaTlS. May ID
The King IS dead, Long live the King, In chif-
fons. as in life how soon the one deposed is for
gotten How quickly ire world succumbs TO the
enchantrnents Of the new The sheath gown Tor
gotten. fashionable women sweep in ample sAlrls
hung over lacy. white pettcoaJs- The favorlte
sleeve IS the IhreeQuarter one and the soft round
neced corsage is belted sashed- As yet there Is
10 exaggeraIion. no forced note in these pretty,
graceful costumes borrowed mainly f-orn the elgh-
teeuth century. As always, the eXaggeraton VIII
follow when these modes have fallen into the do
main Of the common. The soft materials Of the
season that lend themselves SO well TO draperies
tempt the couturieres in that direction; but for the
most part their clients prefer the line Of the skirt
falling straight from belt 20 hem
Evening toilets charming beyond description
Hung over close fitting underdress OF soft silk
CT softer satin. how graceful is the long tunlc
falling in beltless line from the top Of the bust
Beltless but so cevery defining the figure II seems
IKE one with il This tunc is always Of transpar-
ent tulle lace net, so fine ueshed as TO appear
nearly Invisible under the wealth Of embroidery
beads and bugles used in its decoration
Over an underdress Of black satin that flares
vide but IN soft folds below the knees, is worn a
long tunic OF black net embroidered IN pearls ana
lets 50 heavily that il clasps the figure Ike coat
of mail The sleeves are OF lattice work. they point
g little on top Of the arm and are edged With
5et fringe: the extreme point reaches nearly to the
elbow while the inside seam is barely three inches
deep Open widely on the sides, the tunlc Is he-o
roserher lOuE twists o. 1elItQ pdSSt---eL-tOA4S
fastened by large jet plaques a. each end snort
and cut straight across at the height OF the knees
in front at tn, back it points deeply to tran with
the skirt Of the underdress After the latest fancy
tbe corszg cut extremely low, Is shaped into q
deep round below the bust Rising several inches
into = graceful line with the TOP Of the sleeve IS
an rnlfaed MODESTO ot white noussellne dc sore
edged with line Of large. fat, round jet beads
An evening gown OF white satin, built on similar
lires has the tunic embroidered with pearls ana
white 5et. From under the short pointed sleeves
of the embroidery come long unined ones Of white
rnousseline de sole. They curve over the hands 10
The top OF tie thumb. With these lCng transparent
sleeves no gloves are worn. The fingers are loaded
with rings all with stones OF one color
The vogue Of foulard silks predicted months ago
IS now Al its height They extraordinarily pret-
- and becoming made up with many frlls and
Etirrings, even founces Of long past period Dot
ted il large dots % color on a white ground Is d
folllard gown, with its skirt gathered 10 a round
btlt line and trimmed 70 the knees with several
rows Of ruchings wiki pinked edges matching the
color Of the dots The top OF the round hecHeu
corsage and the short sleeves are trimmed II lAe
same manner The chenisette Is OF me lucAS anu
lace ent-e-deux. the same supplying the sieeNes anu
rest of The co~sage. For not weather wear mes
fa,,7r-ds &c practicable made more SIMPLY Win
P short skirt shirred to the belt IN the FORM q
rc,,nd or pointed yoke, the hem weighted WIN .
few r1ro-inch wide tuchs the bodies alSo 9- =
into = strdie form above . folded belt ana l11
leezs sf2frred into the arm holes and again INTO
the wrist bands 10 match the bell tlll ~ - :
,,ret-y when shaped into round d niue oe-o" ~
The throat. The uCtle gIinpe ana S'ocA 80 80
tls t If 6,a white stuff, with turnover Guns OF
he same. For practical purposes il may oe me-
nigh With stock OF the fOulard or arranged lo'
a turnover stiT collar OF heInstitci17d OF eI--O-o
zs-ss Is,ea finished with tiny lace bow OF a sIlall
;a5ot os hen-stttched linen
IN ei~ect contrast 70 this sober costume q IoI
ia-5 silk Is one with white ground Win pi-iA
- --re size e 2 franc piece sci at wide inter
,.sls Laid in fat side pleats TO the round waist
fe skirt opens over tablier OF e'noroldeleu '1'S
In and Is trimmed Down the sides alld ABOUT l-ie
sarb with q ruching Of ravelled silk Inc sleeve
les fo5ice is cut IoVv chenllsette OF HUsl-
Ike the tgblier giving idea Of an enlfe ul"s1
dress The tight sleeves have . little pun al l1's
,1t,,, and end in double frius Of plain nusiln.
ri7l ber,sritched edges. fat, turnover coIlaF ol
The embroidered muslin has small PLAIN plea'e1
frills as d finish &c.. ~,
seen II tea tine on the terrace a. the cent FoI-
,-airss. show was wonderful gown Of white tus-
sore. The full but slender trailing skirt was 'llcA-