Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-09-26

treat Paris houses have had their open ngs and the models selected by the Y. American buyers have made their ap- pearance in the New York shops. To say that the styles shown have brought
 clcarness in the situation and have given positive keynote for the fash ious of the coming season would be gross exaggeration. All that has be- come apparent is that the uncertainty will continue through the autumn and probably the winter season and that, turing the coming season, just us has t been the case during the summer season, H the greatest possible liberty-within certain bounds, of course-will be al- lowed to the ingenuity and the individ- ual taste of the dressmakers and the purchasers of their creations,
 All indications point to late fall and winter season of elegance and good taste. There will be extremes of one kind or another-there are always such extremes-but as a general rule freak ishness will be avoided by all women of good taste. Moyen Age ideas still hold place, but in their extreme form . they have been eommonized and eari- catured until the really fashionable women have grown a little tired of them and the periods of the Louis and the Henrys have furnished the largest share of the ideas for the new season. straight, slender lines still prevail, yet there is slight tendency toward closer fitting and some of the models frankly reveal the waist and bust and hip eurves-the hip curves being, how ever, still reduced to minimum.
 Some of the handsomest costume coats shown so far have, for example, narrowing and eurving of back and front, though the sides are still com. paratively straight. These straight sides. by the way, are the feature of the coats in which the originality of the new models is chiefly displayed. The tendency toward lowered waist lines is often reflected here in hip seams run hing across the sides at point below the hip curves as if making a very low waist line. Panels of embroidery, braiding, etc, are in many cases run down the sides. of the coat under the arms, ending low on the hip and sug- gesting the same lines as the hip seams
 Pockets, too, big, ornamental flap af- fairs, are sometimes set low on the sides, breaking the loose straight line or finishing a side panel. These peek cts, the scanned sides and some of the sleeve effects are definitely Louis XVI, but the narrowness of the coat skirts suggests rather the period of the thir' teeuth Louis, and many of the up to date coat and frock costumes are of no particular period at all, mixing details at the makers own sweet will.
 The styles of the present period are particularly applicable to the rules gov erning the soft and elinging materials. This is the day of soft, pliable, grace ful fabrics, bordure voiles, permo-fin- ished creams and soft silks and cash meres for dressy froeks and soft, pliable serges and zibelines for three-pieee suits for afternoon receptions, lunch cons and like occasions. Voiles are preferable when they are mixed with silk. Another material that IS exceed ingly popular this fall for afternoon dresses is the permo-fnished fabric, a new thought in the world of fabrics. It is a mixture of mohair and worsted, and makes a wonderfully fascinating and pliable fabric for making gowns according to the present style.
 Bordure voiles are easily fashioned into panniers, euirasse effects, over skirts and into the heavily plaited eos tunes. Some of the most beautiful gowns shown at the importers are fashioned of this bordue voile. It ire uuently comes in polka dots as foulards do. It is just bit heavier than chif- ion cloth, and is really an ideal mate rial. but extremely expensive and per ishable, like all fabrics akin to ehif- ion.
 The Moyen Age influence is felt in many of the two and three piece suits and the fancy dresses. This term .sMoyen Age" takes in a wide varia- tion of styles, but there are three CT fects always to be obtained in striving for it--a new treatment of plaits III the skirt, the elongated waist and the semi-ftting bodice. One of the dlstnct arts in this dressy type is the natural blending just above the knees Of the long waist line and the pleats. The entire success of the gown depends upon the manner in which the pleats are in troduced. If suddenly, the gown IS a failure; if artistically, and softened somewhat by an effectively draped sash or some form of trimming, there IS scarcely style so universally becom ing as the Moyen Age, especially to the slender maid and the graceful matron. The gentle introduction of sash of soft self color in an inconspicuous man ner gives general harmony to the eos tune. Unfortunately, this is the point where the amateur invariably fails
 Among the colors that predominate