The Salt Lake herald-Republican. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1909-1918, 1909-09-12

II VERY now and then 1 receive Z
=. letter from some reader who
- gives me her measurements
(Which are greater than those OF the
largest patterns) and asks how she can
get a pattern by which she can make
her own dresses. Usually these meas
urements, besides being greater IN
inches, are in very different proportions
2 ON those of a pattern. Eacn set OF
measurements that receive in this way
would require a special cut-to-measure
pattern, as no two, even with same
bust measure, have waist ana oIheI
measures to correspond.
Now, it is no part Of the business OF
the seller of patterns to tell his clients
how to prepare their own, but L Ieel
that I want il to be my business, as
symuathizing adviser with the home
dressmaker (and the professional 100
If she wants my help, to explain away
the difficulties and point out the ways
that are simple-When you know tnem'
Mysteries of Dressmaking.
Dressmaking, to a woman who knows
absolutely nothing about it. seems such
a dreadful and mysterious undertaking
chat am filled with admiration Of the
courage and pluck Of some OF my cor
respondents, whose questions prove
their lack Of knowledge. A good pat
tern is q well-planned and accurately
cut model for your use, and when your
propOrtiOns are normal or nearly So
follow it carefully.
It is useless for amateur or prOfes-
sionaI to try to improve upon 1t, for II
can't be done. But if the bust measure
is perhaps 46 inches, and the waist 5S-
and I have really had such measures
submitted to me-you can make such
changes on a 42-inch pattern that you
need have no more trouble.
A Lining Pattern.
Most waist patterns run to 40, and
some to AZ inches, bust measure, and
plain-fitted French lining pattern with
no Over-drapeTy) may be bought as
large as so inches bust. 1 strongly ad-
wise getting one of these patterns, IN
your own bust size. If possible, and,
using il as q guide, make a new pattern
altered to your other measures. Once
this lining pattern is made to fit you
correctly, YOU have mode! for all ~
ture occasions. A waist lining IS not
cut in so many pieces, for II does not
extend over the hips, where practically
the greatest number Of fitting seams are
required. front portion with dart
q back and either one or two side forms,
are all that are required in the lining Of
a draped waist
The points of enlargement will be the
same I'm the lining with fewer pieces,
as In the French lining, with greater
number Of seams; only on the latter a
smaller addition on each seam viii pro
duCe the desired increase. The ideal
method is 70 cut the French lining, Mt
or have il fitted carefully (you can do
II yourself if YOU take time 10 it,, then
put il on a bust form and pad IL where
needed to make it firm and strong and
according TO your own shape.
Value of Bust Form.
Bust forms are of several kinds.
There is the extension form, that every
one who can possibly afford 1t will have.
Failing this. d much lighter and more
Cheaply-made form Of papier-maChe is
sold in the large department stores Of
every city. These are not adjustable,
but are sold in the different bust sizes.
NV mother had a favOrite prOverb
with which to meet my youthful ex-
cuses-the needle was bent, the scissors
not sharp. "a poor workman always
bIames his tools" OF kindred belief
must be the courageous and determined
friend who has written me that, finding
it impossible for the time being TO get
q bust form, she took a fat stick, nailed
across it as shoulder support another