The Washington herald., 1909-03-09

operate their own factories. In addition
to the mems clothing factories. there are
200 shirt waist factories and a large
number OF other establishments which
produce only women's wearables. In or
der to keep Up with the flight OF the
seasons, summer. clothing Is made while
the ground Is covered with snow and
overcoats are being turned our by the
thousand during the hottest weather.
The process Of converting bolt OF
cloth into a suit OF clothes Is marvel
Gus 70 the unlnitiated. After being
shrunk and inspected. the material is
turned over 70 the cutters There are
thirty different pieces of cloth that
go 10 make up mans suit. and perhaps
as many different people have a hand in
completing II. The cutter follows a pat
tern with sort Of miniature buzz saw
which will cut through twenty-four
thlckneSses OF cloth in less time than
man could cut out one piece with a
pair OF shears. Tailors put the pieces
together on sewing machines The gar
ment passes on 10 the buttonholers and
other workmen. and finally 10 the finish
er who sews by hand Nearly every
where else machinery is the order OF the
day.
From the clothier's standpoint the most
beneficieRt invention since the mythical
discovery OF the art Of weaving by Min
erva, the goddess OF wisdom. was the
American sewing machine, the perfec-
ton OF which has enabled the American
clothing industry 10 lead the world. The
machine appeared about 1850 and soon af-
terward came into general use. The ad-
vance which It represented over hand
sewing has been equaled in every branch
Of the clothing industry, except that of
pressing clothes. There the ancient
goose continues to reign supreme. al
belt electricity is replacing charcoal as
the heating agency.
New York City Is the center OF the
clothing trade. Much Of the material is
produced in adjacent States and some is
imported The influx OF immigrants pro-
vides continuous supply Of labor fo- the
factories. Methods Of selling clothing
have kept pace with the system OF manu-
facture. In the old days the country
merchant would journey 10 New York
on sloop or schooner, or overland by
stage coach. and occupy quarters over
the stores Of the clothes dealers and
clothing merchants while making his pur-
chases for the spring or fall trade. Now
hundreds of acute statesmen are traversing
the country from ocean TO ocean carrying
samples OF the products or the factories
they represent Other statesmen are ex-
plotting the merits Of American clothing
in the farthest corners Of the earth.
The ability of the clothier 70 keep IN
with the times and TO experiment with new
methods and materials Is shown by his
success In converting rags and other
waste into weaTable clothing This IS
called shoddy. The CASTOR clothing OF
America is used in large quantities IN
make shoddy in Europe. Clothing made
OF textile woven from paper strands is
recent invention IN Germany. The pos
sibilities Of substitution and consequent
frauds in the business are so great that
legislation is proposed to protect the in
nOeent consumer. A Michigan wool grow
er recently suggested 70 the House Com
mittee on Ways and Means. which is con-
sidering the tariff on textiles and related
articles, that Congress should pass
pure clothing bill, similar 70 the pure
food law, under which all cloth and cloth
ing would be tagged by government in
speetors so as TO show the quality and
kind Of material the purchaser was pay.
ing for
Another proposition is TO regulate the
advertising Of clothing in the District Of
Columbia and other places under the jur-
isdiction Of the Federal government, also
interstate advertising OF the same char
acter. The government Is trying 10 reg
ulats advertisements through the use OF
the postal fraud order. which denies the
use Of the mails 10 those who make mis-
representations. 1t Is claimed that legit-
innate clothiers would welcome a law pen
alizing fraudulent advertisements, mis-
representation as TO alleged fire sales.
SC
The condition Of the workers in the
clothing industry IA this country has been
improving for nearly twenty years From
1850 TO 1880 IL was very bad In this con-
nection sweat shops and sweated workers
have been the subjects Of legislative en-
actment and Of consideration by phiIan-
thropic people and social students ever
since Charles Kingsley. the novelist, orig
mated the terms that have since been
applied TO the grinding system Of employ
ers who seek to get as much work as
possible out Of their employees at the
smallest possible cost When Thomas
Hood sang the Song Of the Shirt there
appeared 20 be no hope for the poor
wretches employed IN making clothing
but now clean. light airy factories and
fair wages are the rule rather than the
exception.
Copyright. 1903. By Frederic J. Haskin)
To-mOrrow-PrOht in Goat Rails
ing.