New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1909-10-10

inch band Of antique gold and silver lace, and
still above that band of chinchia fur.
The tunic is of two kinds one that is partly
fitted and hangs over adjusted princess gown,
the other entirely fitted and of the cuirass type.
The latter bids fair to be the more popular. 1t
may be made either of the material of the cos
tune, which is generally the case in simple
dresses, or of some wonderfully embroidered net
or other material which can be made to carry
a rich decoration Indeed. the tunic and cuirass
are the two great features for the exposition of
ornamentation this season.
There is stin another kind of skirt drapery.
but one that is not novel, nor yet quite so
elegant as the plain or draped tunic. This is
where the material of which the costume is COM
posed is brought In long swirs of scarflile
drapery to the lower part of the skirt some
where near the ankles. and there tied and
knotted in more or less graceful style. 1t is a
style that leaves little to the imagination. It
viii no doubt obtain an amount of success with
a certain class of actresses and showgirs, but
many of the leading actresses of the French
stage deplore it, and say frankly that it is
style which excludes all elegance of movement.
Slee-'s are Of the greatest importance this
season Never has there been more diversified
styles in sleeve drapery. They are complicated
to a degree, and yet in some mysterious way
manage TO preserve in most instances the out
line of the arm. and withal carry out the idea Of
simplicity. Much of the fashion of a costume
depends upon the style OF the sleeve. Neverthe-
less il can truly be said that no length and
no one shape dominates.
Many of the newest sleeves take on charac-
teristics Of the Louis XIV and XVI periods, and
are made with puffS and lace frills that are en-
chanting. For evening costumes one may select
only the band across the shoulder may be
equally in style by selecting a transparent half
sleeve, or even one of full length
The complication of sleeve draperies comes
from the fact that many sleeves. even for lit
tie dresses, are cut in with the bodice. This
part may be only a short puff that ends above
the elbow the lower portion being attached in
the form of a deep mitten cuff, or the upper
part may extend over the elbow, and the re-
naming portion Of the full length sleeve be
completed by trimmings and the dropping puffs
at the wrist. Costumes intended for afternoon
and informal evening occasions generally have
the fall length sleeve. All tailor made coats
and the separate blouses TO be worn with them
are fashionably made with fIll length sleeves
In this country there is a feeling that three
quarter length sleeves will be popular for the
separate waist, but in Paris greater favor is
shown TO the full length sleeve for this pur-
pose.
The corsage for evening costumes may have
a round, square shaped opening but the
newest is a deep mound cut that is most charm
ing. This arch shape is quite wide and very
deep. The lower portion of the rounded arch
Is filed in with embroidery, crystal trimming
or metal lace, with small quantity of soft ma
terfal such as malines, fine lace or chiffon set
in against the skin.
Costumes for day wear are made with trans
parent yokes. The material for this yoke is
generally fine lace net, and the high boned
collar is made TO match. Metal lace is very
attractive for this purpose Where a figured
fabric is employed the yokes are quite plain.
when fine net is used it is either SHRED or
tucked, and its value may be further enhanced
by the use of metal net or lace Tor a lining or
the rows of shirring concealed by means of mar
row cords and bands of tinsel in colors TO match
the shades in the embroidery that decorates
other portions Of the gown. be of the tone of
the material of which the costume is composed
Yokes for day are rather more shallow
than they were in the summer and they are also |
not quite so wide
For the woman who has a perfect throat there
are collarless bodices In these models the
bodice is generally trimmed in a shallow |