davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

of the train or boat, what railroad or
ferry to take and all possible directions
must be carefully designated.
There can be no regulation rules for
ordinary correspondence beyond that of
care in regard to paragraphing. leav-
ing correct space for signature at the
end of the page. never writing horizon
tally across a page already written
on, the placing below the signature
first the address, If 1t is not stamped
on the first page of the paper, and be-
low it the date-not the day of the
week nor the year, but the day and
month written out in full. as. for ex-
ample, July fourth; never Sunday
the fourth" or July the fourth"
For a business letter the address in
full and date, with numbers not spelled
out, are placed at the upper right hand
corner of the first page. For any form
of business letter, such as an order by
mail, the making or changing Of an
appointment, the third person is used
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11
New Vanity Bags

Y FANITY bags of kid lined vachette
" leather hold a passepartout framed
mirror, tiny purse for change, card
case. three manicure tools, powder puff
case and pin cushion. All the articles
are placed in pockets made of silk and
shirred on elastic.
Silk lined, box built vanity cases of
colored seal calfskin equipped with
back strap or with strap handles have
two gold or silver mounted flaps, be-
meath the lower of which beveled
edge mirror is embedded
Pigskin vanity boxes of dress suit
shape have an ivory framed mirror on
one side, complete manicure set on
the other, a celluloid collapsible drink
ing glass under the concave lid and the
folding sides, formed of four v-shaped
sections, accommodate needle cases and
thread reels.
Three inch long vanity cases of anne
thyst ornamented filigree gilt have tops
which form a powder box fitted with a
cover having a magnifying mirror on
its inner side. When closed the lower
portion of these cases forms a butter
fly concealing a glass stoppered vim
aigrette surrounded by narrow cush-
ion for small stickpins.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11
Old Ribbons for Fancy Work

n IBBON that has been ripped from
IL a discarded hat or frock Will US
ually answer nicely for a piece of
fancy work If properly renovated.
Soiled taffeta and grosgrain ribbons
should be soaked 10 minutes In good,
pure soapsuds in which a little baking
soda has been dissolved. gone over
with soft brush until all the spots
have disappeared, then rinsed in clear
warm water. which must be pressed out
with the hands, laid between two
cloths and smoothed with moderately
hot iron.
Black silk ribbon should be thor
oughly brushed wiped with cloth,
then laid on a table and sponged on
right side with strained hot coffee
When partly dry the ribbon should be
ironed on the right side
Creased ribbons should be dampened
with a clean sponge. then rolled
smoothly and tightly on round
wooden rod until perfectly dry
Black satin ribbons should be reno
waited by sponging them with the
strained water in which clean potato
peelings have been soaked for "a hours.
After sponging the ribbons should be
placed between clean cloths and ironed
on the wrong side.
To remove dust from velvet ribbon
sprinkle the right side of the material
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

There are two kinds OF polish for
brown shoes-one dark for high boots
intended for tramping or travelling; the
other considerably lighter in tone for
the shoes that are worn with light col
ored gowns.
To retain the original color OF brown
stockings a little powdered henna
should be used in the water In which
they are washed-never bluing which
gives the ugly greenish shade so much
70 be avoided. With brown ties and
boots. rubbers Of the same shade nnuat
De provided, as black overshoss are
extremely ugly with tan. while brown
boots are now worn with practfcal1v
every style Of street and travelling cos
tune.
little sweet oil rubbed on shoes
which have been hopslessly soaked
through in an unexpected rain ana
nave become hard and stin will at once
so1tenAthe leather without In anv Wv
in1uring the finish. First the shoe ro,,s+
be allowed to dry and then the oil noYs+
be given time to soak IN wen bafora
theAshoes are polished. Light tar 90,
always be rendered darker in tone Nv
polishing the leather before the liouf5
has had time to dry on the shoe. To
retain the lighter tone. the lidufd must
be given some minutes to soak In snd
dry thoroughly before polishing Is at
tempted
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11
Compact Writing Utensils

GIRLS who appreciate the advantage
I / of having a writing utensil always
at hand will be interested in the
new combination two barrel pen and
lead pencil, which is about the same
size as the ordinary fountain pen but
has its barrel so arranged that, re-
CARELESS of the addition of the clutch
in which the pencil lead is held, it
will hold about the same quantity of
ink as will a regular fountain pen.
The lead filed pencil barrel is
equipped with an arrangement which,
upon turning, extends the single lead
for writing and withdraws it, while the
trouble of filing the fountain Is min
imized by continuance which makes 1t
necessary to insert the pen portion of
the combination, only point downward
and without unscrewing the pen Sec
ton, into the device attached to the
ink bottle. With the pen thus fitted
into the bottle both are inverted and
by repeated pressure on the pen the
latter is Immediately filed.
The latest device for carrying writ
ing utensils Is In the form of a stick
pin equipped with lead pencil con-
cealed at the bach and having its
point protected by being folded beneath
a f1ange. To use the pin for writing
the wearer need only remove it from
the tie and reverse the position Of the
setting, which will cause the small
lead pencil to protrude above the latter.
A novelty finger ring concealing a
pencil lead which folds beneath a large
cabochon setting is bit too conspicu-
Gus for girl to wear. save when
camping out or stopping in some re-
mote rural district, but it is a prao-
teal setting for the belt pin worn with
tailored shirt waist.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11
Hints for Care of Summer Shoes

lNLESS ones maid is exceptionally
competent It is a good plan for q
girl to take personal care OF her
white shoes and slippers-that is. If she
is anxious to be at all times srnartly
shod. White shoes are now worn uni
versally with summer frocks. nor Is
any other style of boot so attractive
with white or light colored linen or
lawn costume. Fortunately, white can
vas shoes are II anything easier to keep
in order than are either black or tan
boots. but, as said above. they can not
be treated carelessly.
After thoroughly brushing the shoe
to remove all light dust and dirt a
white canvas shoe may be literally
scrubbed with stiff brush and any
good soap. Then, after being placed in
the sun until thoroughly dry. white
shoe powder. provided for the purpose.
may be added. There is scarcely any
kind OF ordinary stain which can not
be removed with soap and water, and
then when the canvas has been
scrubbed as white as 1t is possible to
make it the moist white clay may be
spread on. which. while 1t gives a clean
white finish to the shoe. also helps II
considerably to keep further soil from
the canvas. No shoes can ever be
cleaned without trees inside to retain
the shape and keep the leather or can
vas from drawing or shrinking.
Fresh bows and ribbons will do much
toward making an old pair of pumps
or ties look new and smart. but white
laces that are discolored will take away
any possible good points from the most
costly shoe.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

f<I EARN to sit 'serenely' if you
would acquire distinction of man
ner," advised the April Grand
mother. TT may seem an unimportant
matter, but nevertheless comparatively
few young girls know how to properly
seat themselves, look comfortable when
they are seated or get up gracefully
from a seat. One reason for this awk-
wardness is due to the fact that teach
ers who are not themselves fastidious
in regard to physical poise permit their
pupils to rush into a classroom and fall
upon a seat. instead Of constraining
them to enter deliberately and sit down.
mitted to assume an unconventional
position when at her desk gets into the
habit OF wriggling nervous1y from one
side OF her chair to the other. sits on
one foot or spreads her knees widely
apart-attitudes which are not only
uncomfortable, but vulgar.
Many girls look awkward and I'M
easy when seated. because they slide
on a chair from its side instead of
from its front edge and do not allow
themselves sufficient space to turn In
when approaching seat. When ready
to sit down one foot should be slightly
in advance of the other, so that by
pivoting on the toes. bending the hips
and knees the body will swing easily
on the chair. Care should be taken
to place the hips as far toward the back
of the seat as it is possible to get
them.
The girl who sits on the edge of a
chair and leans far back is in as awk-
ward an attitude as she can possibly
assume and one that will not only Inn
pei her to cross her knees, but help to
injure her spine. She should remember
that when seated the hips must invar-
iably be farther back than the shoul-
ders, otherwise it will be impossible
to sit erectly, gracefully or comfortably
which, of course, means sereneIy.
This attitude will bring both feet In
their correct position-squarely upon
the floor and partly covered by the
skirts. The consciousness that one has
small, prettily shaped feet is not an
excuse for thrusting them forward, and
in my younger days every gentle
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11
The importance of Careful Letter Uuting

RI OTHING so arkably stamps a
IN woman of culture from the woman
Of small education and narrow in
terests as do handwriting and the gen
ersl style Of each letter which she in
scribes. There is no excuse. therefore.
for girl OF even average advantages
10 ever send out letter carelessly ex-
pressed. illegibly written or untidily
stamped and addressed. Unfortunately
one Of the easiest Of all bad habits TO
acquire is that Of careless writing, and
many a girl will injure her penman-
ship beyond repair by one summer of
needless letter writing. When re-
moved from the restraint OF super
vision and obligatory care with her
copy books she feels free to write how
she viii and express herself with no
thought to perfection of sentence
structure. All the years when she is
IN the schoolroom her handwriting is
being formed
There is only one method of ao-
curing q good handwrting-tha is by
never allowing one letter that is not
a. well written as the writer is capa-
bic OF doing sent 10 the post, even
though the recipient be a dearest chum.
Soon the habit OF excessive neatness
and carefulness will become fixed, and
not until then can the effort be re-
Taxed for a moment. To some. Of
course. a clear. well formed penman-
ship is easily taught, for others there
viii never be a time when the utmost
care can be dispensed with, but each
year makes it more difficult to make
any definite change in ones chirog-
raphy.
Graphology, or the science OF char
acter reading from handwriting, may
be laughed at by the ignorant, but a
clear. neatly written. well expressed
note must surely denote orderly habits,
neatness. a certain intelligence and
breeding. just as careless writing never
fails to tell Of carelessness in other
lines save penmanship.
An excellent resolution, therefore, for
vacation time is that not letter shall
be sent out that the writer would be
unwilling to have seen by any one
and which IN both penmanship and
good English is as perfect as the writer
can make il.
So much for the actual penning of
the note. and in a formal invitation
or answer to letter written in the
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

n AME FORTUNE therefore dictates
that all must be athletes, and at
the same time she ordains that for
each separate form Of sport she shall
be at once smartly and appropriately
gowned- It is interesting also to note
that today the practical absolutely
dominates in all sporting costumes. but
it is emphasized that hand in hand
with what is practical must go the be-
coming.
That the practical rules all branches
Of sporting dress today is evident, but
in no instance is this so clearly illus
trated as in the riding habit now in
favor. The coat Of this new habit is
little different from that which has
been worn for some years past; sleeves
are tight. the back is semiftted, in
length the Jacket being a medium
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

become soiled while the skirt remains
immaculate, and vice versa, and when
a hotel laundry bill must be taken
into consideration this must be thought
Of Gowns throughout for morning
as well as afternoon wear are at pres
ent considered smarter than even the
finest lingerie waists worn with sep
the girl who really plays regularly is
to have made several simple shirt waist
dresses of white linen, duck or madras.
all alike, so that waists and skirts
can be put on together interchange
ably. For tennis the turned down col
or soft batiste are the most comfort
able, but it is mistake to wear this
style of collar II 1t is really unbe-
coming.
IT is best to have the collar separate
from the waist, as a fresh collar and
tie will frequently give another days
wear to the dress. : In the lingerie
and embroidered linen waists only are
hight boned collars attached to the
neckband, so that linen collars, high
or low, embroidered or plain, can be
worn with the waist as desired
All shirt waist sleeves are long. and
for tennis waist stiff cuffs held with
jeweled link buttons are smartest.
Soft cuff bands are also worn, how
ever, If especially preferred.
For golf boys stiff turned down
white collars are often worn instead
of unstarched linen, and these are
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

IT Is a mistake to think that for
swimming anything at all win DO,
and that the 1T really does not
greatly matter On the contrary, every
thing depends upon whether or not the
suit fits trinity and the headgear Is a
becoming shade and prettily adjusted
1t Is important. therefore. for a bath
ing suit to be made to measurement
as any party frock. and IL Is worth
while to procure good material for
there are certain textures which viii
wear several summers. while the poor
err grades OF silk and alpaca ars
scarcely worth the making up Peau
de cygns wears. perhaps, better than
any other fabric. but the best mohairs
will also give excellent service Dark
blue relieved with white or q light
blue collar, tie and belt Is. In ths long
run the best for the purpose. since
red, attractive as II Is for q bathing
suit. is almost sure to run. and black
is too old and unbecoming. Medium
weight cotton stockings Of the same
shade as the suit are still more at
tractive than black.
For still water bathing wide
brimmed straw hats are often worn
to prevent sunburn and frecklss. but
in surf bathing this is impossible, and
besides there Is little enjoyment to be
had If girl can not go under water
at will and become expert at diving.
floating and any new strokes she may
desire to learn. An all rubber cap
covered with a pretty silk handker-
chief large enough to fasten IN
jaunty bow in front makes the best
headgear for the girl who really swims
and knows how to enjoy water sports
to the FILL 1t is a great temptation. OF
course. to allow the hair to get wet
each day, but this is so injurious that
no sensible girl will lightly incur the
risk OF wearing false hair when a
debutante. A red silk or even a red
or dark blue cotton bandana makes
an excellent bathing handkerchief.
The prettiest bathing dresses this
year are in a princess model. with
tights separate, buttoned TO stift
piece of betting. which is attached to
the gown at the waist line.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11
Attractive Pin Cushions

q TX ball cluster pin cushions are
made of pastel brown. green, white.
black and gray satin, filled with
scented cotton batting and suspended
by matching inch wide satin ribbon
from celluloid ring. They are insendai
to hold similarly colored glass headed
toilet pins.
Cluster cone shaped pin cushions are
made of brown linen, trimmed with
foliage green ribbon and suspended by
satin hangers from an ivory hook deco
rated with a big bow
Maltese cross cushions of Dresden
silk are trimmed with ribbon and have
boxed edges for the accommodation of
fancy pins.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11
The San Francisco Sunday Can
HOLI DAYS

dark blue or red linen collar and cuffs,
looks extremely well. Simple waist
and skirt dresses. practically the same
as those worn for tennis and golf. are
also good for all kinds OF boating.
For no sporting use must lingerie
bodices be worn any more, for it has
been found that the sunburn con-
tracted on neck and arms through the
sheer texture and openwork embroi-
derry requires months to wear or. often
leaving mark that viii take years to
much as any other that thin waist
is seldom worn for driving. walking or
even sitting out in the sun without
some kind of a linen jacket over 1t.
And, after all, the sheer lawn and ba-
tiste waists formerly worn for tennis
and all forms OF outdoor exercise were
so perishable as to be ridiculously in
Apr apriate.
The girl who can not swim loses.
perhaps. the greatest pleasure of ths
whole summer. and should there be
any girl so unfortunate she had better
turn all attention at once toward mas
tering this art, which, after all, Is one
Of the simplest. because the most nat
uraI, OF all sports. Upon the bathing
suit. however. depends much OF the en-
joyment OF the exercise. Not only
must 1t be comfortable, but It must
also be becoming. for there Is. perhaps.
no other style OF dress In which girl
can look either so bewitching or so
hopelessly unattractive-
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11
Hanging Flower Baskets

ID ICTURESQUE looking hanging
flower baskets for the veranda OF
summer cottage are OF rustic
wood. zine lined and suspended bv LEAF
green metal chains. Crystal aowsr
baskets OF old hat shape and figured in
straw weave have ivory tiated leather
suspendlns handles. Pressed glass
have pierced sides through which rnaS
De run long satin ribbon hangers.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

woman's ankles were solely matter of
supposition so far as the public was
concerned.
I'm a praiseworthy effort to sit grace
fully a great many girls take elabo-
rate pains to arrange their draperies.
and consequently their pose looks stifr.
whereas by simply seating themselves
in the correct manner and with the
knees close together, their skirts-if
not too scant about the hips-wil1 nat
uraIly fall in graceful folds.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

there is no dress so useful as the old
fashioned sailor gown with blouse
waist. worn with or without a dickey
or vest, sailor collar and pocket and
plain gored skirt. Up in the noun
tains this dress. in dark blue or brown
linen or in a striped percale. will
prove eminently useful. At a seashors
resort a severe coat and skirt costume
in heavy duck. white with perhaps
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

= oIoRED linen-pink, blue, green
or mauve-is. OF course. most at
tractive. but is too Impractical
for a game played for hours at time
in the direct rays OF the sun. 1t Is
well TO have one or two simple prin-
cess gowns. made sufficiently short FOR
tennis, to be worn perhaps during
tournament which calls for a tribe
more elaboration OF dress.
For sailing. boating. canoeing, etc.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

Unless the hands are allowed 70
lie idly in the lap" concluded the April
Grandmother. the effort to sit serene
ly' will be unavailing. Many girls have
a habit OF grasping the arms. sides
or back OF their chair. OF twisting their
fingers or toying with some ornament
while other people are talking to them
and OF emphasizing their own remarks
by 'clawing the air under the mistaken
impression that they are making gss-
lures"
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

sometimes used for tennis also. Golf
is no longer played so universally as
tennis, but by a few 1t is still pre-
ferred TO the more strenuous game.
The correct costume for both sports
is much alike although natural colored
linen and crash If often worn for
golf instead of all white, and tan shoes
and stockings will be found to look
better at the end of the mornings
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

with fine seashore salt and then brush
the pile backward. To raise the
crushed pile of velvet ribbon cover
hot iron, held upward, with a white
cloth. lay the velvet side on 1T and
then gently beat the crushed portions
with a clothes brush.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

round than will white canvas, which.
however Immaculate at the start. can
not long remain so in the tramp over
a course perhaps muddy and sandy
For tennis white shoes and stockings
are always worn.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

three-quarter. The skirt, however, is
very different from any model worn
heretofore and is really more trousers
that skirt, with a half skirt over them.
Brooches and skirt are of the same
material The skirt is seamless, and,
while when of the horse the material
buttons across the back to look much
like an ordinary skirt, when in the
saddle the cloth is unfastened and falls
only over the trousers, leaving nothing
to catch or hinder in case of fall In
hunting no other style of skirt is ever
worn today.
In warm weather crash and linen
habits are, Of course. necessary, dust
color or natural shade of the material
being the most in vogue. White pique
and linen habits are also occasionally
seen. and these last are especially at
tractive for very young girls.
The most sensible tennis dress con-
sists in a white waist and skirt made
simply and somewhat shorter than the
regulation length walking skirt Sep
arate waists and skirts are more gen
orally worn for tennis than 8 dress
throughout, as one day the bodice may
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-11

enjoyment in life was forfeited Today
It IS not only fashionable TO be an ex-
pert in every kind OF summer outdoor
sport. It IS an essential Of modern edu-
cation. And not only must the TWEEN
tieth century girl be able TO excel al
any one sport she must be able TO turn
with equal dexterity from golf TO ten
MS, must be a graceful swimmer a
fearless rider. a skilIful whip and even
manage a good sized sailboat and per-
haps be able to drive a go horsepower
touring car. Just as the winter days
are given over 10 carefully planned
study, so are the long hours of each
summer day taken up by the modern
girl in perfecting herself in those
sports which are at the moment most
popular and which appeal especially to
her own love OF outdoors.
To the so called restless life that is
INDUCED in today may be attributed
the good all around sporting knowledge
OF the average American girl During
the early summer and late autumn at
the large country place Of her parents
there is ample opportunity afforded
for riding, driving, motoring. tennis
and, perhaps. golf. while the few
weeks Of midsummer are generally
passed at either seashore or mountains.
where the principal amusement is
either SURF bathing or boating, while
some girls perhaps pass the entire
summer at a resort where it is pos
sible to pursue every known form of
sport from fishing 10 driving a coach
and four.