East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1909-09-18
FASHION LETTER BY
CATHERINE PAYzANT

New York, Sept. 17.-In spite Of
the fact that we are but in the midst
of September nevertheless the design
ers and dressmakers are making their
preparations for the fall crusades in
new modes and materials, and wheth-
er the criticisms made of late both by
clergymen and laymen will have any
thing to do with their modification
remains to be seen, but judging from
what has happened in the past wo-
men will probably go their own
sweet way and concoct few more OF
the "monstrosities" that have raised
the ire of these fault finders.
That we will see a great number
of gowns of the Moyenage type this
fall appears to be settled idea in the
dressmakers circles, and as the cool
er weather arrives and a greater
amount of material can be carried
without discomfort, it is not unlikely
that we may see the straight tunlc
effects Of some other material laid
over the gown. The underdress must
be the main color, absolutely well fit
ted trimmed with Nuns hem, tucks
or bands or embroidery or insertion.
The upper part of the gown forms the
bodice yoke and sleeves, while the
tunic material for which there is
great demand for embroidered nets,
are laid over it in straight folds. This
sort of gown can hardly be spoken
IF as maybe" for 1t is alrea1I
fashionable and being ordered into
the new gowns for the fall outfit.
. A beautiful dress of the type was
developed from silver grey messaline
with A tunic of embroidered filet net
showing faint tints Of green, yellow
and pink and blue. The under dress
was made as a plain princess sip
with two deep flounces about the bot
tom and at the neck was a deep yoke
of net braided in the finest soutache'
The sleeves were finished with two
deep ruffles and a piece of the en-
broidred net. over this was a tight
fitting overdress from the yoke down
to the top of the flounces. The front
breadth was shorter than the back
and sides and decorated with deep
fringe which ended just on the line
with the sides portions. This over
dress of the embroidered net also had
sleeves that came down to where the
messaline ruffles began. OF course
such a dress is trying to any but well
made figure but the art of the corset
iere has become expert enough TO
overcome all but the greatest faults
Of the figure.
A second gown of the Moyanage
mode was of Batiste over corn yellow
and had the usual elongated bodice
with a plated skirt attached at the
widest point of the hips under a sash
of yellow silk tied in bow knots at the
left back side. Two bands on each
side of the front of insertion gave
narrow effect to the figure. The clos
ing was on the left side made with
three buttons put through three points
of the upper side which points came
over the band of insertion. The up
per part of the panel near the neck
was laid back like a rever disclosing
square lace yoke beneath.
A frock that is similar to the prin-
cess was developed from pongee with
plain back and front, sides plain
to the hips to which were attached
plaits. The fronts were decorated
with bands at the sides and the yoke
was made of an interlacing of bands
which bands finished the short
sleeves A lace tucker with high col
lar and lace under sleeves were the
finishing touches to very serviceable
gown.
For rough outdoor wear these au-
tumn plaids and checks will have
great vogue They are very stylish
and smart and are extremely service
able as WELL For early autumn wear
nothing would be more modish than
light weight tweed in black, fray
and white check trimmed with black
buttons. A bit of color could be In
troduced effectively II so liked. The
new full plated skirt was used with
the straight front for a gown of this
sort. The plated skirt was made on
the bias of the goods while the front
was cut on the straight and from be-