The San Francisco call., 1909-04-11

" Brims OF all widths and
shapes those that droop
less probably being given the preference
But whatever the width the outline of the face
should be carefully studied in shaping it.
S Turbans Of all shades and sizes will be
" lar; they made OF various kinds Of straw.
? fancy brads. erin, and combination of soft silk
and fancy braids. Others almost completely
covered with q mass of small flowers fruit or
berries, the preference perhaps leaning towards
the last Tulle. mostly in black and in Brus-
sells nlet mesh, is being used great deal, trim
ming entirely covering of the newest turbans.
The turban, TO look it's best, should be softly and
artiscally draped either with ulle chiffon,
some similar material and strict simplicity should
characterize the rest Of the trimming stn soft
aisretts caught with fancy buckle sheaf Of fine
quilts looks exceedingly we'll
One Of the fashionable turbans is lightly trimmed
OF skeleton higree work of fine jet with large aigrete
the fronds of which weighted in reversed fashion
with Jet drops pear shaped black sequins.
The most noticeable feature of the newest hats is
that they a resemblance those of the empire
period; mostly quaint but pleasing and lend
themselves admirably attractive finish to the
present styles in dress great variety of shapes is
comprised in these empire models, that may be
Of all heights and shapes and brms OF various widths
broader at the sides and dropping or of even
width all around, and both correct The large
toques also under the reign of the empire
Some of the spring models directore
lines Also and this tends to making them somewhat
enormous, whether in toqlie picture form. One
high no brinl and with wide crown. The straw was
soft threaded heliotrope ribbon. which
formed bow at the side and had beside 1t huge
bunch of tearose buds.
Another in fine black straw, a high crown
made Of huge finely gathered tule choux in black.
side three black purnes The
brim turned up in front swept round
ders IN wide curves. Both these hats we'll
back the head and side. and they need the
most careful putting on If they to look we'll
*&*
While the tendency of the hats towards the en-
pire drecoire periods is proof that the gowns
win remain there. they bound finally
though both milliners dressmakers work with
seeming indifference Of each other, and their patrons
must make what they out of the result. The
marvel of it is that il is generally less har-
monious great deal be done. however. with
color material and this is where the connecting
links in.
One of the favorte colors the hour is brown and
in morning tailor mades it has completely taken the
place Of blue and black. For gowns canary
yellow and all shades of gold. peach, apricot cop
looked at with favor A good many short
sleeves to be the afternoon gowns, and
to be bead trimming. the big cabochons being
much to the fore for corsage
To return to the main subject-wings Quills
share the honors with ostrich plurnes
tiful large paradise aigrettes dropping the brm
are favorie trimming for the exclusive models
Braided buttons and the quls showing the feathery
top pieces pasted to their edge good trim
ming for the strictly tailored hat-to wear every
day The buttons braided in great variety OF
patterns and be done easily Rosettes are
favorite trimming for the plain model OF
net heavily braided in soutache pat
tern make an effective trimming used band around