davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-24
French Fashion Notes

two materials. which is a feature Of au-
tumn modes.
One model has short-basqued coat OF
wooden material. which fits the figure
closely. A girdle of supple black satin
IS knotted at the back. Velvet buttons,
a velvet-faced collar and q black satin
cravat completes the coat detail. The
skirt is in two sections. the lower part
velvet, the upper part of wooden goods.
Stitching marks the line where the ma
terials join. This French idea ought to
give a hint to the owner of a velvet
dress too worn ito be used in its en-
tirety.
There is a new color. burnt bread"
which is rivaling the light and dark VIC
let's in the fashionable spectrum.
Quaint short-length 1880 dresses are
charming frocks for the debutante. Ruff
fes Of lace over net. stiffened at the
edges with ribbon quillings. reach from
hem to knee. Nearly all evening dresses
are draped in such way that long lines
are retained. while soft fulness is kept
near the lower part of the skirts.
AIoire. in its soft form, is exceedingly
popular for long coats. 1t is used to
cover evening gowns. is combined with
fur for street wear, and is lovely when,
as an outer coat, it appears in the same
color as the afternoon gown UNDER
meath.
Smart belts OF suede and glossy
leather are displayed in little shops.
There are also magnificent metal ones Of
barbaric designs which. in their jeweled
beauty flash out from white broadcloth
walking suits.
Margarine LacrOix is showing wonder
full fur-trimmed evening gowns. A
crinkled velvet is the foundation of q
dull. greenish blue costume. trimmed
with narrow bands of fur and a fringe
of dull silver balls. silver metal Cir
die encircles the waist. in which green
and blue stones are set. It is a lovely.
restful color in the galaxy of pinks.
yellows and glistening silvers and Colds
which flash out in the evening lights.
ELOISE.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-24
PARIS, Oct. IA.

PARIS, Oct IA.
vt IS difficult to escape the fascinat-
ing topic Of millinery over here.
Hat shapes are innumerable, but
they can be roughly grouped under
four or five types. Individual lines. OF
course, crop out, and extreme styles
are always favored by radical French
women: but, as the days go on, the pre-
vailing ideas which were launched few
weeks ago in millinery form are toned
down and chastened into less conspicu-
Gus. but just as chic. styles.
One Persian turban is a folded or
swathed hat. resembling the pictures OF
oriental rulers. This shape is worked
out in velvet for street wear. The soft
material fits the head closely and is
held in place at the front or side by
heavy jeweled ornaments. Gauze. lace
and tulle are used for theater wear. and
sparkle out in transparent filminess in
many audiences.
The Cossack turban is much heavier
and larger, and, generally, employs one
material for the overlapping crown and
another for the brim It is favored in
an attractive black and white form Of
beaver and velvet.
Each designer is turning the brim Of
the three-cornered hat in a different
way Our Paris milliners seem to ex-
plot their own tits. poises and lines
when they send out this well-liked
model A wider brimmed form is gain
ing favor.
These days the cavalier hat turns up
less brusquely than in the summer time
A long nodding ostrich plume is. per-
haps, the most popular adornment.
These are the favorite walking hats.
Pages were necessary If the dressier
large styles were to be described.
Very long coats are appearing on the
boulevards these autumn days They
have large rolling collars and cuffs. and
bands of fur are used to edge the skirts
of the suits. But some French modistes
insist upon giving a little woman a
chance and odd little short-coat suits
have been exploited. They are made OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-24
Raincoats
20 OUTFIT for the coming season

20 OUTFIT for the coming season
NJ ia complete without raincoat.
L y woman to be in the we'll
dressed category must look smart eSen
when rain or snow Is threatening her
costume. She no longer wraps an III
citing variation of a mother huo-
hard round her form and parades out
to fight the elements: today she taxes
from her closet a good-looking moolsh
affair. which shows the touch OF a 'ai-
lor. and when on the streets she Is an
attractive rainy-day picture
There is a silk raincoat in any color
desirable. and flashing out in checks.
str;nes or PLAIN colors. This style is
rather ornate in material, ana WHEN
buttons, cords and straps OF contrast
ing shades are added. no woman VINO
prefers elaborate designs can wish for
more.
A jaunty little raincape has fiuttered
tons under a high standing collar OF
contra sting shade. One almost eHpecls
TO see the end of sword pointing from
under the back edge sometimes sl.'
army. Frequently, a plain cape VIII ny
open to show a plaid lining. 1t IS tr1m'
and bids fair to lay siege to many
feminine heart and pocketbook.
Then the reliable waterproof c!oth
coat. cut on semi-fitting lines with a
tailor's hand. Bhck, tan and gray are
the favorite colors for this more con-
sentative style. 1t buttons in double
breasted fashion. and ample sleeves al
low free disposition of the under coat
Last of all. and most attractive on
fair woman, r. coat of very light tan
raincloth. 1t is a clever adaptation Of
a mannish style. loose back. sloping
shoulders and decidedly mannish sleeves
and pockets are the features of this
model. 1t is d trife more expensive
than the others. and its ultra smart
ness is appealing to women who are al
WAYS 'luSt a little different"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-24
STYLES

addition to her wardrobe and who 10
turns with it four weeks hence serene
in the satisfaction OF one exclusive
touch. will suffer establishment all too
soon when she sees it's counterpart the
very first time she puts 1t on in her
own country.
Now. it is equally true that some
OF her fashions Paris does not let
loose upon America at once. These are
the last extreme touches, no doubt. Not
SO much the garment. the hat shape.
the bit Of fur. as their extremes and
the manner of their wearing. In fact.
they are her fashions for the demi-
monde; and it is a consolation to US
to realize and pleasure TO admit that
We do not readily make them our own
on this side of the water.
While il is generally conceded that
there are no Glasses in America. but
only masses we recognize in every
one of our cities and towns less
obtrusive population who set the more
correct styles that others follow. In
Paris "all are but parts of one stupen-
dous whole: If you will. a fiashy whole.
seething in and out of the cafes;
each separate unit of 1t dressed like
every other in the richest that the
white city affords. There is less reser-
walton of clothes for special times and
occasions: there is more general dis
play of elegance: and fashions are con-
tagious and easily done to death.
There is demand, an eyer-increasing
craving for things new; and 1t Is only
reasonable to believe that they cannot
all reach America before they are killed
by the incoming OF later style.
This is a most delightful situation.
Picture the result of any more fashions
being dumped upon American soil!
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-24
Cashmere and Velvet

~ROCKS of soft cashmere are espe-
II ciaIly suited for young girls. The
- texture OF the material can be
worked into soft girlish lines. and the
ging quality allows the s!imness OF
a youthful figure TO be retained. even
though fulness be used. Gowns OK
cashmere for house wear have now re-
ceived a velvet touch, which enhances
their charm ard gives a new opportu
nifty for coloring the dresses. A band
OF darker-hued velvet is effective at the
hem OF a skirt: pipings of velvet are
excellent in emphasizing lines, and tiny
velvet bows are used to give contrast
at the neck. When planning your cash.
mere house gown, do not forget to visit
the velvet counter.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-24

TT is perfectly true that. Paris gets
things first, and. 1t must be admit
ted once in a while, by way Of hon
esty, that they stay over there for
time before we get them
This point has been disputed time and
again during the last two years. Prior
to that time it was a well-established
fact that the Partisan and Viennese de-
signers and modistes had difficulty in
pushing their products out to other
countries in any great haste.
Time was when 1t was quite possible
to buy garment or trinket in a for
eign capital and wear it in America at
least year before encountering its
double.
Foreign shopping took on different
aspect some time ago, when it grew
even more necessary to search for I'M
usual articles. SO that. after arriving
home. the traveller might feel the sat
isfaction OF an exclusive garment for
some months at least.
Now the styles penetrate so quickly
from Paris to our own great cities that
the buyer abroad finds it difficult to
make a selection that will not be du-
plicated by the very next importation of
foreign stuff.
This may be due to the fast-going
ocean steamers or to the increase in
foreign travel. It may be traceable to
the habit Of American dressinakers, who
buy, some Of them, thrice yearly from
foreign modistes. The progressive Amer
lean spirit that imports in haste to sell
at leisure may even be responsible for
this march OF the styles: but certain it
is that the woman who. this week, goes
abroad for a quick trip and happens to
pick I'D some delightful foreign looking
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-24
Buttons and Pockets

a MORNING gown that promises
~ TO creep into the hearts and ward
4 n robes of many women is a simple
little one-piece dress, with buttons and
pockets generously decorating the front.
1t is OF dark blue serge and fastens
down the front with a double row Of
bone buttons from neck 10 knees A
rolling collar Of embroidered linen gives
comfort to the neck. One pocket on
each side of the waist and one on each
hip Gour pockets TO one woman, think
of that0 fill a long-needed desire to
have many little things near at hand
black leather belt and a soft silk tie
complete the idea Just a little de-
parture from the usual housewives
frock isn't it?
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-24
FOR THE STREET

The cheviot walking costume, In the
center, is made on those simplest Of
lines not in the least objected to for
either light or deepest mourning. The
buttons are covered with the cloth,
but a braid covering Is often resorted
to, and for second mourning bone but
tons are permissible. The turban-
shaped hat, crepe covered, is a model
worn by youthful widows. and the
black suede bag is an indication of
good taste.
Accessories mean much in the gen
eraI effect. Black net OF the plainest
weave is used for yokes and cuffs
Also. il is used for wells. with band
Of crepe along it's lower edge, to be
replaced later On by a grosgrain
ribbon. The one-band idea is uni
versally the more correct mourning,
several bands indicating an excess.
The excess OF anything is conspicuous.
and it is TO be strenuously avoided
under these circumstances.
1t may be that crepe has not been
highly favored of late years for the
very reason that ii was carelessly
combined with such materials as Jet,
superfuous dull beads. quantities of
black jewelry, not to speak OF dark
furs. which were not black at all, and
such lighter furS as chinchilla and
even ermine, for which there is no
excuse.
Gunmetal ard platinum are good
mourning in Englan but the abb
sence Of jewelry or trinketS marks
more perfect accordance with the
spirit of mourning.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-24
Elegance in Trimmings

TT ANDSOME trimming accessories OF
n many kinds are shown in jetted
= u nets and in laces embroidered with
silk and colored beads. These have been
made in boleros. tunics, stoles and cuffs.
and bid fair TO be popular because of the
fact that one will make a comparatively
elegant gown OF a simple robe. An
amateur can incorporate these ready
made pieces on plain background. and
really intricate looking gown grows
before our eyes The more beautiful
these ornaments are the less decoration
ts required on the body of the gown.
OF using this expensive material in
smaller pieces and In different ways.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-24
Mercury's Wings

WE HAVE heard of stealing .
wv gods thunder, but it has re-
NAMED for French milliner
to take from Mercury a pair of grace
full wings and place them at the side
Of velvet hat. Heavy gold or bronze
is the favorite color. and woven thread
is the material in which these wings
appear. They are not large. and are
placed with the tips pointing backward,
one slightly over the other 1t is an
effective decoration, just a trifie differ
ent from the feathery ones, and with
the fieetness of the ancient messenger it
is flying into well-deserved popularity.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-24
LAIN GARB FOR THOSE IN MOURNING THE MARCH OF

-9E wearing OF mourning mas
~rouy, TO be more or less
r,,++er Of personal choice. IL
~ ware invariably and without
douht based upon individual neeo' OF
deen nersonal feeling there Would De
scant necessity to indicate what KIM
=, mourning fashions are correct.
Tbe,a would be something within u
prompt the wearer. 49,
If feeling were back OF oil ''o
mourning that is worn, certain curious
mistakes would not be mace: ou' VIC
ing to some extent a conVehlion'
has not a. deep hold upon the iiioiVAu
81 ,pd there remains an ever-pres-
80 dap,nd for the correct and time
" in crepe and mourning fasnlohs'
1il.e all other conventions, 1t Is not
useless It is a symbol. and there Is
sufficient reason for its preserValioh
- s,,cb Life with all its symooi-
isn, left out might be found lacking
In interest. 1t would deteriorate into
,nere business deal. Much or the
,a,,,ras,ra would be eliminated. to
say the least.
We consider mainly the street ana
house garb of those who wear olach'
since evening clothes are rarely need
ed Fashion suggests no olllereh'
models for mourning. but there Is
an unWritten law that pronounceS
AGAINST frivolous outlines. The more
si,,,,e models are usually selected.
ond those having a certain dignity.
When vokes are used they usually
take on a square or sloping outline
instead of rounded.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-24
A New Combination
N EXTREME novelty is a com,

a N EXTREME novelty is a comb.
~ nation garment of knickerbockers
4 u and princess chemise. The upper
part fits the figure closely and has .
double ruttie OF lace. which falls in Q
cascade from the yoke almost to the
waist line. The lower part Of this gar
ment is gathered into a band Of lace
and insertion at the knees. each being
edged with full ruffle Of linen and
lace. This entire combination is striped
with insertion and lace. It IL an at
tractive idea which has been evolved,
from the silk boomers OF last season.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-24
RouGHER SURFACES

7, materials there are slight changes,
owing of necessity, to the incoming Tor
eien models in colored garments. Home
snun. serge and cheviot are good suit
ings. taking the place OF smooth sur
faces.
For dresses. the finest dull black cash
meres are correct, as are also Volle De
laine and dull silk mousseline over lus-
terless taffeta silk. Crepe appears upon
almost every mourning dress and suit
in Paris. 1t has never suffered the de-
cline that has made it more scarce In
America
The first figure at the left OF the
sketch wears unfinished cashmere
gown with a felt hat. A simple bow OF
black crepe trims the hat, while broad
bands of the crepe supply richness for
the girdle, cuffs and chemisette, and ap-
pear as bands on the plain skirt and I'M
even tunic Black mousseline supplies
the yoke and the tucked lower sleeves.
The cut of the dress is interesting In its
rather extreme lines. which are. never
theless. of that severe type which con-
stitutes correct mourning. The mum Is
black lynx, and this fur holds Its own
with Persian lamb and the more recent
lusterless monkey fur.
The pretty afternoon frock for home
wear, at the opposite side Of the
sketch, shows the same broad bands
of crepe and is OF similar design
so far as simple elegance goes. Wool
wolfe is the material of this model, and
it's yoke and lower sleeves are OF
dull chiffon taffeta, hand tucked. This
design may also be developed in the
thinnest of cashmere and banded with
dull taffeta.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-24

OMEBODY has described the
- necessary brassiere as "a bust
- reducing corset cover. washable
though boned." 1t is that and it Is
more. Not always for bust reducing.
but for improving reasons as we'll. is
1t used by some quite slender women
whose corsets do rnt fit closely
enough against the cure to smooth
out the contour. This defect is not so
distinctly noticeable with the loose
blouse or the pleated shirt. front. but
the princess dress. the chirass and
the Russian blouse models demand a
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1909-09-27
La p0rte de los
aeronautas
UNA MOTA CULMINANTE

hueva York, iunes.-Lcs iustres INVENTORIES Wright
azrtis comenzan hoy exhibicones aereonauticas.
Reina el mayor entusasmo. Este numero de la aeros
saci6n de los mas briantes de los feelos des
zumbradores que eelebran aetualmente New York
Fl nimero de forasteros ha excedido todas las prev
sasnes vi ,g ~FRR
~
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1909-09-27
Un manifesto
de Canalejas


New York unes-E senor Canalej ejas-eomunican de
Madrd-ha publicado manifesto, el que pde el
tablecmeno de las garantlas consttucionaes nca al
elemento popular que pronunce contra la reacc6n
clerical
Ell manifesto del senor Canalejas muy comentado
provoca apasionadas discusiones.
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1909-09-27

ILUMINACIONEH FANTASTICAS

Nueva York, lunes.-Ayer haba en- el desfie de River
Side dos miones de almas euarenta nail AUTOMOBILES.
Fue espectacule grandoso.
Las umnaciones los buQues, Los puentes en- los
,uelles ofrecen fantastico aspecto.
Los fueeus artaeales no admen coKparaei6n los
xrabajos eonocidos de Ia piroteena.
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1909-09-27
los qrandes festejos
en- New York

Nueys York. unesEl espeetaculo que ofreee esta ciu
dad de inustado movimiento de extraor
maria anmac6n Mllones de personas han presenclado
Ia gran revista naval desde Half Noon y Clerznont
Las exceentes numerosas Was de communication han
pstado inadecuadas nsucientes para el immense gen.
to, para La enorme aglomeraci6n.
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1909-09-27
La tonDa de Zeluaas

Nueva York, lunes.-H general Orozco contnus
avanzando hacia Zeuan que ha de rendrse al ataque
de las tropas espaolas Nador otras poseiones
trategicas
La columna del general Orozco esta reszando bri
llantisima sere de hechos de armas.
Entire la iarka cunde e desaliento Los rfenes empe
zan carecer de todo.
New-York tribune., 1909-06-13
SUNDAY MAGAZINE FOR JUNE 13. 1909

couple of clubs: but seldom goes them, because he
is too happy at home Bill Edwards drops in when
ever he feels like it. and is always OF a wei
come
Perhaps once or twice a week John dimes out He
has dozens Of invitations to the homes OF his married
lends and accepts such OF them as he tanCleS tie
observes with curious satisfaction that the wives OF
all his men friends to Ike HIM much better thdn
when he had a wife of his own And in fact they do
like him better He's such a safe and convenient
person to ask to dinner when there's woman guest,
Young or old! He doesn't mind being asked even on
an hours notice Most OF the women, IT IS true nave
matrimonial ambitions for him fondly imagining
that he leads a desolate and lonely he, but these
feminine efforts serve only TO aInuse him
Listening to Tales of Woe
THE attitude of the happy married men toward
him is something really remarkable They use
him as a sort of father confessOr
of course old man they say TO him, ' love my
wife and wouldn't part from my children for the
world but darned II | don envy you your freedom.
II must be great not to duck out rom Congen1al
crowd and rush catch the fvefortythree for fear
you'll be late home to dinner And if YOU happen TO
stay out till two IN the morning It IS nobOdys bus-
ness
Sometimes too he hears ZONES plaint-and there
whole I2t OF Joneses TO be found IN Lies D1-
reCtory.
/ tell you. John I'm mighty proud Of my wife'
She's a wonderful woman; but she's got one habit
that ge.s on my nerves. Sometimes | don't know
how I'm going TO stand 1t After a hard days work
III the office and standing in crowded train all the
way my station. get home just IN time Tor din
uer The minute sit down At the table she begins
10 unload all her little troubles ot the day OF
course they are only tTIteS,-Helen teacher dltn
give her a far mark in geography. the maid IS
So sloveuly she won't DO all the butcher IS charg
ing two cents a pound more for srloin the wash
woman two hours late, do | think she can afford
a new hat TO match her new gown, Mrs. Minnick Is
giving a dinner party and hasn't asked rs
Ii she'd only wait till I've had my dinner and lighted
my cigarette and let my nerves down peg, l could
stand it, but to get this OF reception night after
night IS almost more than | can endure Once |
tried 20 tell her about and the only good did
Ill L.,
tion with something about my being unSynpathetIc
and caring nothing about her troubles
New-York tribune., 1909-06-13

see something more than newspaper sersatCra.1sr1
behind the statement Harvey Francis has been the
real Governor Of the State John Morrison has been
the ruouthpieCe and tguTehead
He rose and. walking over 20 the window. looked
at the January landscape Il might have been
the snOwclad hills or It might have been the thoughts
that weighted HIM down. but something ru>t then
carried HIM back across the long wears one snowy
afternoon when he had stood up IN a Uttered s,h.
house and delivered grafton ON The Resro--.-
bIitles OF Craftsmanship lie smiled as The title
came back 70 him. and something caught ~ the
Governors throat-What had become Of tEe SrIr- .-
that Seventeen-vear- old boy, He had meant i- .-
then, and he could remember even now the -ar..
with which he had stood there that Afternoon ..--
ago and poured his fervid sentiments regarding
the sdcredness OF public trusts When had the
of that bov d5ed5 What was II that kept him v.
opportunity presented itself from putting INTO LIS
life the thing he had holly poured INTO his school,
boy OTarCn- What
SOME one was tapping at the door. Il was
- smooth. easy. COutIdeUt tap. and there d -uu-
deal of reeNIve action. at least there -Ec
sCIousuess of long habit III the Gov eruor- ONE
ludulginS III a Ittle meditation, Francis vl>
endowed with some sort Ct divine. ULCIE Le, ,--
spiration in getting az a situation And then as -le
Governor only frowned IN response. he went ON eas-
Ilv, uSt came from Il blg with pOrUau tt
course, everybody Is holding hi1n up for tickets and
he, poor young fool looks as though he wanted -9
Jump INTO the river Takes things tremendously to
heart, porman does
He lighted cigar smiling quietly over the strer--
BUSINESS OF DorrDan. Well. he leaned back IN hrS
char and looked about the room. IuSt thought d
look in on YOU for minute You see I IN not --sr
by afternoon He laughed at that Understandable
kind OF laugh entirely Characters of the man
The Governor sat looking HIM. Someway It had
never occurred 70 HIM before 10 analvZe Francis In
the first place he was not analyst and ther-ue
did not know why, but for "a good many wears he had
simply taken Francis for granted But as he looked
at HIM paragraph from the newspaper came
back TO hIn, " His very cultivation makes of hIm a
Corarsss en- sags !5
New-York tribune., 1909-06-13

Do vou wonder, with such confdences from friends
and a few recolectiOns of his own, that John dimes
cont entedlv in his bachelor fiat sometimes with
COnqenial friend but often with new book or
magazine as his only companion.