davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1909-04-18

fourths yards Of material ~ inches wids
would he needed for the blouse and 49,
yards OF velvet ribbon. this for medium
size. The under bodice calls for lace or
net. and 1S yards A inches wide would hs
required for either textile
The last bodice figure d. represents
something particularly suited to the dress
lest day wear. Three yards OF material
q inches wide. or lA yards OF 4a-in N
width. will make the bodice proper For
net already tucked to be used for the
stock and guimpe IS of yard would be
necessary The banding about the neck
and the falls at the side coald be in diff /
ferent laces. and il the bodice Is In creamy
or white the gird.e could b. iE the skirt
color.
plain cloth skirts. cut With almost
riding-habit snugness AMI dropping on |,
the floor all around, are much seen with
fine bodices. Many beautiful nets ant.
laces. in the exact tone u the material !
used for the skirt. shape numberless fancy
waists though II is necessary always TOD
keep these for their own particular skirts. ]
The best of the elegant odd bodices re-
peat somewhere the note OF the skirt. !.
women Of taste and ingenuity adding /
these themselves with many ready-madOe
waist.
Say the old skirt to be used II OF dulfa
coral cloth and there 10 a scrn7 left over
from the making. This the genius OF the
needle turns into a delicate bias or piping.
which Is used to outline the stock and
sleeve edges Of the cream or white lace
waist. Tiny buttons covered with tho
Same may also be applied In small num-
bers with good effect. and IL needlework
is possible. a touch OF stitchery IN coral
silk would give the last note OF continuity.
After all, 1t Is still upon the endless little
things that the right effect depends.
MARY DEAN.
Gold both in lace and cords. II much
used az q trimming for new ruffs for
spring A narrow strip Of gold Is effec-
tive used as a band on q white or black
befrilled ruff.
Silk cashmere continues to be modish
for the best afternoon gowns. and lik0
al iother materials Of the moment. IT -
elastic, soft and supple.
Evening star., 1909-04-18

but many OF those unacquainted with the
gentle art Of the needle will have to
stand outside the gates. The ready-made
shirt waist Of proper cut and material is
not the inexpensive trife 1t looks. Five
dollars is asked for quite simple effects.
and If handwork Is rampant the price
may go far into the twenties The price
of one white embroidered linen waist of
almost severe plainness was sixty dollars!
Immaculate neatness is Indispensable
for these wash garments, and that means
numbers. and numbers mean time for
the work. so the home sewer should look
at once to her summer supply of waists.
The quantities of material needed seem
small as compared with those required
by former models. and the snug fit and
little sleeves do much to suggest the slim
ness at present SO desirable. In fact.
though shirt waist model is scarcely the
one to advise for stout woman's bodice,
even the diversified shirt waist can be
made to suggest good figure.
The style and fit of the corset Is an
important factor in all good results, and
1t Is often necessary to wear a support
here. Upon the betting Of the shirt waist
much also depends. SO remember that
narrow belt gives always simmer effect
This weeks designs give four of the
seasons new styles for waists. and each
one would prove simple task to the
expert sewer.
A dainty little waist can be made from
the design with low collar and elbow
sleeves Mgure AZ. Four yards of ma
terial 21 inches wide. or yards of 44-inch
width, would be needed for medium fig
ure. Here the waist is made of white
linen with clusters Of round pearl buttons
down the pleats Of the front. The low
collar may be sewed to the neck or else
be detachable. and If thin material
Is used the soft tie could be Of the same.
An edge Of lace around the collar. cuffs
and down the front pleats would be a
smart note for soft, fine texture. and
If embroidery is to be utilized on a heavier
one 1t should likewise be on these de-
tails. Thin linen, batiste. dimity. lawn
and lightweight flannel are all suitable
for this pretty little model.
Tho second "shirt'' (f1gure b Is still
Evening star., 1909-04-18

dal monger by avoiding all appearance
of evil''-it is a noteworthy fact that the
most violent antagonists of scandal are
those who give most cause for it-but the
claws Of the "catty" penetrate deep into
the good and the bad. the just and the
unjust alike.
1t must be admitted. however that there
are some women who arouse whatever
latent "cattiness" there may be in those
with whom they come in contact. Their
vanity, vulgarity or pomposity makes
even a sweet-tempered woman positively
long to say nasty things.
But it Is important to remember that all
is not "catty'' that shows claws. some
women who gain reputation for the
acidity Of their remarks are often actuated
not by any malicious motives. but by
desire to appear witty or smart Prosper
Merimee wrote to Nine. Beaulaincourt. I
love you also because you are biting.
There is nothing hate so much as peo-
Pile who are always sweet, and. II mis-
take not, Samuel Rogers once confessed
that his reason for saying unpleasant
things about people was that his voice
was so weak that unless he attracted at
tention by the bitterness OF his remarks ne
would pass quite unnoticed.
At woman's club recently one Iair
member remarked to another with REFER
Evening star., 1909-04-18
USES FOR BANANAS.

Few persons know the convenience and
delicate taste of cooked bananas. Few
not to bananas born realize their nutri-
tive value. Yellow bananas can be en-
ployed in many excellent ways They are
fine plainly boiled in their skins and
served with cream or sweet butter for
breakfast. They may be boiled with
salt pork or baked around a leg Of fresh
pork (peeled in last instance) or fried and
served with broiled lamb kidneys and
bacon. Used In this way both the kid
neys and the bananas take on an added
flavor by being together. Select fruit
which. while ripe. is yet perfectly firm
Ten minutes are required for boiling, and
five or little more for frying. The
fruit will let you know when 1t is done.
for 1t falls into a pulp as easy to digest
as baby food. Baked bananas may take
the place of potatoes on a luncheon table,
as they are excellent with all meats.
Bake them in their skins In a hot oven,
and punch them occasionally with the
fingers to see how they are progressing.
Evening star., 1909-04-18

portunities of the wife. and his worries
are more intense. There is consequently
no such necessity for woman to have
a hobby.
Now. from the woman's point of view.
the question is somewhat dissimilar.
Within limits. of course. she can often
arrange the household work or manage
ment to suit her own ideas, but 1T is well
to note the important reservation within
limits" for II the house is to be kept
going in an orderly manner there must
be system. and you cannot have system
and do things at odd times. That Is
naturally impossible: hence there is not
so much freedom as one might imagine
from the foregoing argument. House
work forms a constant and at times
monotonous routine. The wife is con-
fined within her own circle and does not
have the chance Of working with and
talking to other people: she may sit down
and sew or go out visiting. but this Is
often her only recreation. Some wives
do not even have these amusements. In
the evening she Is expected to be ready
to devote herself to her tired husbands 8
needs-until he goes out to his club for
a change, 1t may be.
No. the fact really Is that very many
wives do not get enough change; that Is
why they grow irritable and things do
not go smoothly In the domestic regime.
Evening star., 1909-04-18

4 GOOD deal is heard of the hus-
~ bands hobby or hobbies. Every
one agrees that 1t Is we'll that he
should have something to which he can
turn when the days work is done and to
keep his mind from brooding over busi-
ness worries. and nobody blames him for
having some favorite pastime. unless. in
deed. he makes himself a slave to 1t. Yet
1t seldom occurs to the lords of creation
that a wife. too. needs a hobby. In fact,
If 1t were mentioned to many husbands.
devoted and loving as they may be. that
the other half of the matrimonial asso-
citation requires hobby they would
think the suggestion quite surprising.
Is the suggestion reasonable? The
argument of many Benedicts would be
after this fashion,: The wife Is in her
own kingdom all day; she has work to
perform of one kind or another 1t is true.
but she can practically choose her own
time for doing it and her own way OF
carrying out the household tasks. She
can go for a walk inthe afternoon, and
she can sit down and read for awhile. and
last but not least, she can go shopping.
The husband, on the other hand. Is al
ways at work: he has his own time for
luncheon, but he must not dawdle during
business hours. He has none of the op-
Evening star., 1909-04-18
Intellectual Femininity Less Likely to Be 'Catty'

ence to third who had just left the
room: 81 think she Is the most interest
ing woman / know. 1 have never heard
her say a nice thing about any one yet. :"
From all this it will be seen that there is
q demand for a certain kind of ''catti-
ness, that, in short, it meets what Is
commonly called "a lOng-felt want"
But as a matter of fact, genuine "catti-
ness as differentiated from sharpness or
bitterness Is less common now than 1t
used to be. In all classes of society wom-
ems interests are wider, they are more
Independent, and the homage of men is
less essential to their happiness than 1t
was in the dear dead days of long ago.
Jealousy is one of the strongest predis-
posing causes of "cattiness," and when a
woman's chief ambition is to be socially
successful. to outvie others In her dress
and her beauty, then that curious attri-
butte of "cattiness'' is sure to be flourish
Ing. The less intellectual a woman is the
more '"catty'' she is. Most women nova
days interest themselves in literature.
philanthropy. politics and the work Of the
wide world generally, and just In proper
ton as their interests become broader
and more altruistic so does that petty
method OF thinking which manifests it
self in "cattiness' of speech become more
and more rare. DAPHNE DEAN.
Evening star., 1909-04-18

under the eye Is very bad. but few per-
sons not in beautys secret will be able
to suspect the artificiality Of the I'M
proving overshadow made in this way.
But the red and the black are only
breath-they must seem the reflection
of the ball Of the eye through thin
lid.
You now come to the important
makeup" rag. and with one corner OF
this go over the rouge, and with an
other over the lids till your own mother
could not tell where her daughter be-
gins and art ends. Then dust on the
powder. smoothing that with still an
other corner of the rag.
Thus should woman use cosmetics.
II at all, and thus the offense Of en-
ploying them is lessened appreciably:
though l would that all my sisters left
the rouge pot and the face powders
severely alone. But alas, how many
make use of them-and execrable use
at that!
KATHERINE NORTON.
Evening star., 1909-04-18
Diversion for Mistress as Well as Master of House

They are too cramped. and the household
cares. the little ailments of the children
and other small troubles weigh on them
in a manner not commensurate with their
Importance. To keep a wife bright and
happy the husband should see that she
has some recreation. some hobby. 1t may
be that circumstances do not admit OF
much expenditure for amusement. but It
is not necessary to plunge into whirl OF
dissipation to be amused pleasantly.
What is needed, and badly needed. In
many homes is that the mistress shoulu
have some congenial pastime an occa.
sional variation of the weekly round OF
routine And. given this. the home would
be all the brighter for it.
To illustrate this point. young ma
tron Of my acquaintance was fast reach
ing a state Of nervous breakdown. Every
thing bothered her-the children planning
the daily menus-everything seemed a
bore Now. this tired little woman mere
ly put her sister in charge OF her house
hold for several days and became the guest
of an old schoolmate who lived in the
same town. and at the end of the visit
she was rested both mentally and phys
ically and went back In happy frame
of mind to take up the very responsi,
bilities that a few days before had
weighed so heavily upon her.
ELLIS MACK.
Evening star., 1909-04-18

frugal minds will find 1t impossible to
unfurl their de mode parapluies with any
degree of comfort.
Sunshades are as gay as the spring
hats. and the fiat Japanese shape is 1T"
Indeed one might say that sunshade In
spiration has been drawn from the land
Of the butterfly and the chrysanthemum.
and Clio Clio San is the pretty name given
to one of these dainty accessories. This
model Is quite fiat. The framework is
gilded and the mounting Of fiowered silk
trimmed with chiffon in the prominent
color Of the silk. But to describe the
generic features Of the fashionable para
sol OF today. In the first place. as I have
said 1t is fiat. and 1t has an eighteen
instead of an eight ribbed framework, and
these ribs project over an inch beyond
the covering. Another new and effective
mark Of the 1909 parasol is a small ring
passed over the handle into which the
long ends of the ribs slip. This arrange
ment not only adds to the neat appear
ance. but 1t is safeguard for too many
ribs might catch In dainty laces or chiffon
forming part OF the toilet All the smart
est parasols are finished at the handles
ribbon ruche supporting ends.
And. apropos OF handles they are much
longer than they were last year. In fact.
they are directoire sticks dressed up In
all kinds OF stunning ways. Many are
oddly, even grotesquely. ornamented.
Carved birds. such as owls and parrots.
perch on the ends. Tiny monkeys climb
aloft. and tabberwock animals heads are
among the designs from which milady
may make a selection There Is, too. a
long, slim handle suggestive of a javelin
in shape and of a cucumber in coloring,
that Is ultra Japanese, the wood being a
product of the mikado's realm These
directoire sticks are not awkward to han
dle as one might suppose from the de-
scription. and to simplify the matter of
packing the parasol considerate manu-
facturer has devised a patent by which
the handle may be removed by pressing a
spring. In green silk such a parasoi is
very new and chic. But there is little
new in the fabrics that cover the latest
models. and almost any kind Of material
is stylish. Silk. chiffon. linen ribbon
and velvet are all brought into use, some
times alone, and sometimes two or three
different fabrics are combined. For in
Evening star., 1909-04-18

a RE women "catty"? The kittenish
~ woman is practically obsolete. but
"catty" women are to be met at
every turn. From some points of view
comparison with the domestic tabby Is
more complimentary than otherwise. for
many women might with advantage emu
late that feline creatures repose and
grace of movement: but, alas, the term
''catty' when applied to a woman usually
means something that purrs while 1t digs
its claws deep into one something that
hurts while it pretends to caress. In
these days of militant suffragettes. when
women have shown themselves such
adopts in barking and biting, 1t might
have been thought that the term doggy"
would have been more applicable. How
ever. most Of us have in mind the sort OF
women who "sit at home at ease" and do
not worry themselves about policemen or
politicians
Some people confuse 'cattiness' with
scandal. but the two are totally different.
The former is usually manifested before
ones face. while the latter is reserved for
ones departure. One can outwit the scan-
Evening star., 1909-04-18
Parasols Are Fashioned After Oriental Models

filet net. while others show hemstitch-
ing so elaborate as to suggest Mexican
drawn work.
White linen parasols are particularly
lovely this season. and the buttonholed
edge Is newer than the hemstitched finish.
The latter is more serviceable. but all
idea of practically vanishes where one
sees anything SO dainty as the latest ar
fetching white linen parasol which I saw
recently in 23d street shop had the
modish buttonholed edge. About
quarter of a yard above these scallops
were eyelets set wide apart. through
which was run a pale blue ribbon that
ended at one side with a large chou of
loops Another stunning linen sunshade
was of green, ornamented In the same
fashion with white ribbon and button
holed edge done in white cotton.
In the dressy variety of sunshade ones
ideas become chaotic when a description
is attempted, for they are a mass Of ex
quisite frills and furbelows. beauti-
full parasoi that will be carried In the
summer at Newport by a smart New York
woman is Of ivory satin charmingly en-
broidered in wistaria in the palest tints
of mauve. And the same woman who.
by the way. is an admirer of things with
"Jappy" flavor. has had designed for
her parasol OF white silk with a Japan
csc landscape painted on it in which Is a
figure of Japanese girl The effect is
pretty. but l am afraid when milady
carries it abroad everybody will be curl
Gus to study the picture.
OF course. the parasols described are
extreme styles. but there may be found
among the new models sunshades to suit
ordinary mortals and the average pocket
book. with perhaps twelve ribs and car
rying mountings not so reminiscent Of
the orient. Still. only by the extended
stick and the many ribbed frame will
the new parasols be known.
In my enthusiastic exploiting OF the
Japanese parasol l came very near for
getting the star shaped model which
SO far has appeared only in cretonne.
The star has eight definite points This
astrological effect is refreshingly novel.
In umbrellas there is craze for colors.
Dark red. green taupe and odd looking
grays are the most popular. The correct
size this year for women is twenty-six
inches, and the rod and ribs Of steel are
SO fine that when the umbrella is closely
rolled it can scarcely be distinguished
from a walking cane. Long, slender
handles of carved ivory are the top notch
Of fashion. For women who want to
beautify themselves at rather inopportune
moments there are para soils and umbrel-
las with handles fitted with tiny mirrors
in the upper half, and below the perpen-
dicular sticks there are powder puffs
sticks of rouge for the lips some cos
metic for the complexion and a small
vial of perfume. To jog the memory of
femininity while desperately trying to
catch a train or to keep an appointment
there is a handle fitted with watch no
bigger than button. So Of ways that
are dark and tricks that are vain the new
parasols and umbrellas, of the season are
peculiar. CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star., 1909-04-18

winter this is Of cloth. lined with fur: In
the spring it is OF coarse serge and In the
summer of crash.
These coats need not be tailor MADE ao-
solutely. Fancy touches are allowed In
the shape of rounded edges. big molds and
fancy frogs or buttons. recent i'm
ported model purchased by a friend Of
mine has a Greek key design stitched in
linen bands all around the edge, and the
buttons are of russia leather, with a
horses head in silver in the center of
each.
Another very smart coat made by a
9Th avenue tailor is Of gray linen to
match the habit, and it is trimmed with
bands of black and white pique.
White wash leather gloves are quite
the smartest thing, only they must be
Evening star., 1909-04-18
The Gent1ewoman and Her Speech

these honorable names is to show our
inef1iciency in the matter OF language:
However. the phrases "She Is q lady
and "She is a perfect lady" are
not often employed by persons OF
punctillious speech. She is fine wom-
an" is far more usually heard, and In
this case the lady" is understood.
Elegant is another exquisite word
enormously misapplied. Elegant desig-
mates the finer qualities OF person or
object dress of rare color. make and
material may be elegant; grand
lady's or gentleman's manner elegant:
But we cannot have an elegant time
ment means a pleasant or an unpleas-
ant time, and a good or bad dinner.
though the manner of serving the latter.
all the table appointments and the de-
nortment of the hostess may be eminently
elegant.
Tasty Is a rock upon which tho most
Evening star., 1909-04-18

textures turn out the everyday garment,
while for skirts suitably elegant the finer
ones cannot be too exquisite.
But lovely as these last are. 1t Is the
more modest thing which Is most need
ed. The plain. stylish shirt waist, with
the coat and skirt gown which goes with
1t, represents the last notch for comfort
and practical wear. and in the wardrobe
of the summer girl will be seen a number
of models, the materials in these ranging
from board like linens to the finest tex
lures.
The body portion of the practical shirts
differ little from those long seen. Many
models show the old Gibson shoulder
pleats, the breast pocket and plain French
back while the front tucking md fitted
backs of other familiar styles are still
favored. It Is in the sleeve that the great
est changes are being made, and though
not nearly SO close as those of dressier
waists, the sleeves of the favored shirt
waist are decidedly small
giving way. to large extent. to stiff
linen collars and turn-down ones of linen.
muslin and embroidery. which are most
becoming to q youthful throat.
Everywhere these stylish waists give
delightful hints to the expert needle
woman. for Observation-Disclosures. hand-run
tucks and drawn threads distinguish the
majority. Indeed, the girl handy at her
seam" will dwell, as you might say.
in the shirt waist paradise this summer.
Evening star., 1909-04-18

OF it. Only girl in her teens wears It,
And. by the way. speaking of the little
sister, how do you like the smart linen
suit with the divided skirt worn by the
girl In the picture? Her tan boots and
gloves harmonize nicely. and her little
three-cornered hat is more youthful than
either a sailor or derby. Notice. too,
the little lingerie bow. which she is al
lowed on account Of her age.
The number Of women who ride astride
is diminishing in New York city. but 1t is
increasing elsewhere. 1t is not an unbe-
coming mode. provided a woman Is nei-
ther fat nor short-waisted.
The safety skirt seems to meet the re-
Evening star., 1909-04-18

inclosed in a conventional figure. like
a diamond or circle. We come as near
q coat of arms as we dare in this land
of the free and home of equality: but.
never mind, it looks pretty.
In conclusion. l want to say that I
wish every one of my readers could ride
horseback. A woman never looks more
stunning than when she is well mounted.
The exercise not only gives her health:
it teaches her courage. self-control and
sef-reliance. and last. but not least. the
American girl makes the finest horse
woman in the world. All experts say
this, and it is also the opinion OF
KATE CLYDE.
Evening star., 1909-04-18
The Powder PuH and the Rouge Pot

finger into the red and rub it over all
the points which have ever displayed q
hint Of natural rosiness. Some faces
need a touch of rouge upon the chin
and lips. q faint tinting Of the eyelids.
and decided rosiness for the lobes and
curl of the ear. The lid-tinting Is to
give the ball Of the eye fullness, and
the chin. lip and ear touches make the
cheek blush seem more natural.
Leave this application to sink into
the skin and proceed with the dark
cosmetic. Except for the fairest wom-
en-. who use a blond pencil, brun
(brown) Is the best color for this. Fol-
low the natural eyebrow line with the
pencil, and never make a mark, If you
can help 1t, on the bare skin. Then
rub the dark pencil across the palm Of
the left hand. and with a clean finger
OF the right gather up this soft brown,
blond or black dust and rub 1t deli
cately over all the eye covering.
A hard line made by a dark pencil
Evening star., 1909-04-18

submitted to soap and water each time.
Anything less than spotlessness is out of
the question.
Colored stocks are in fashion again.
particularly in lavender, sage green and
new tone of raspberry red. The pocket
handkerchief must have a border to
match the stock.
place of the plain one this spring. and
q pair made to order costs as high as $50.
X
Anything of fluffy order is decidedly
out of place in the saddle. and when one
day a stunning woman wearing long
green. futtering veil appeared in the ring
Of fashionable riding academy she re-