New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1909-10-24

Paris. October Il.
Capricfous weather granted springike
Day last Sunday al Longchamps Seen
without sheltering wraps the parade of new
Gowns between races was interesting Sew
eral sil-velvet costumes were noted but
generally the finest toilets showed a me-
lsnge Of velvet. silk fur and mousseline de
cole. Without exception the women who
walked about the paddock and lawn wore
round skirts short enough to show their
smart American shoes. with cavalier heels
and, wide ribbon ties. Now ard then one
glinpsed a Louis XIV heel below a hint
oflace and embroidery OF white petticoats.
ct present the correct thing instead OF silk.
Though long coats are b. no means aban-
doned. greater number Of short ones were
worn than has been the case this season
IN any gathering OF smart women. Charm
Ing in its straight long lines was a red
tngote costume of bleu corbeau wstered
elk trimmed with chinchila fur. Nothing
OF the under dress showed except in the
open front The skirt mounted little above
the waist line, ending under a folded belt
Of changesble gray and black satin. the
exact shades of chnchilla fur. A shawl
collar that ended just at the upper edge OF
the belt and wide cuffs were of the fur. A
huge nat muT of fur was banded in the
middle with silk. which matched the belt
and twisted into nat rosette on top The
ribbon was so tightly drawn as 10 give the
rnuh an odd. puffy appearance at each end.
A band and a large fat bow of chnchilla
fur trimmed the big hat Of beu corbeau
velvet, These fur bands and bows are ex-
tremely fetching. Several were noted last
Sunday. A tall turban OF black velvet had
fer its trimming hand and bow of unspot-
ted Frrr
each end with black bear fur.
Chic and youthful looked the Marquise
de Noailes in princess gown of chest
nut brown velvet From neck 10 hem it
closed on the left side under line OF four
or FIVE tabs, plped with black FUR and held
by velvet buttons trimmed with fur Made
Of many soft velvet folds. her hat matched
the gown. It was trimmed with a very tall
algrette Of shining jet beads its slender
strands waving with every motion.
Except velvet, Liberty silk triumphed
over all other materials. but always in con-
Junction with either cloth, silk or velvet
Fancy long, close hung garment made
entirely OF black mousseline de sole and
trimmed with circling bands OF sable fur!
Cut with the hair running downward the
bands circled the garment closely sleeves
and all. With every movement the trans
parent spaces between showed charmingly
Black velvet, Venise lace and chinchlla
fur made lovely toilet at which many
cameras we're levelled. Soon no doubt. it
will Edorn the pages OF ali the illustrated
papers. On the short velvet skirt the lace
OF a lovely yellowish tint, was set above
the hem in a wide band and edged with
fur. Fur edged the half long coat. turned
back into wide shawl collar and hemmed
the half long sleeves, above puffed lace
undersleeves drawn below the elbows into
wide fur cuffs. OF black silk beaver. the
hat that topped this costume was ex-
trenaely large, and without trimming save
for huge gray aigrette pinned with Jet
Three we'll known American women made
conspicuous group distinctively gowned
IN the trig, careful finish peculiar to the
American woman. One, who was tall and
slender. wore Russian blouse Of coarse
white homespun cloth. rough and hairy.