Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-10-19
Pads and Fashions
By Florence Fairbanks


 NEW YORK, October 1s.--It is true that sheath skirts with extreme scant- | ness of material are no longer consid- | cred smart, but among the newest styles are to be seen skirts that, while l considerably wider about the hips, are so narrow around the ankles that they make walking almost impossible. Most of the skirts show much more fulness around the waist. Some are gathered just a little at the sides, almost all are gathered laid in several side pleats at the back, and there arc few, if any, made quite plain. Overskirts and draped skirts, ruffed and flounced skirts, and skirts with wide bias bands of some contrasting material are all to be noted among the latest models.
 All the fashionable skirts shown among the latest importations display eceentricities in some direction. One of the features is their length, They are made so as to touch the ground all around and street, morning, afternoon and evening gowns are made in that style. The designs are in most cases quite intricate and full of odd and ec- centric effects. But there are also a few delightfully."- simple models, with lines eharmingly graceful. The skirt fits as close as ever at the sides and in front, but at the back a box plait or plaited inch breadth hangs straight 10 the hem of the skirt. This is a com, promise between the draped Princess and the highwaisted skirt.
 Somehow or other all waists seem to be larger. At least they look larger, whether or not there are more inches added to their size. The fact that hips must be smaller than ever under the full skirts and that the belt has gone back to its normal position on the waist may have something to do with the ex- tra number of inches that apparently have been gained Then the broad satin belt that is so much a feature of almost every gown adds to the effect of width, for it is not worn perfectly flat and tight to the figure, but is in soft, draped folds and is not at exactly the normal waist line, but a little above, adding to the rather thick and short waisted eff feet.
 Among the season s novelties is the double skirt and the underskirt of one material and the overskirt of some thin transparent fabric which recalls the days gone by when scarfs and draped effects were fashionable and when ladies were taught how to wear searfs and shawls. A white satin gown completely hidden under a transparent heliotrope or mauve voile shows the fashion to perfection. The satin is plain, most carefully hung and fitted. From the belt to which 1t is gathered, with only little fitness in front and at the sides, but with considerable at the back, hang the breadths of the voile which are caught up and turned over and then again the end is caught up under the belt at the side.
 Another peculiar novelty is to have half the skirt of one material, the other half of some different kind of fabric. Dark blue serge and black satin are thus combined, while singularly effect i've is another gown with the lower part of the skirt of imitation sealskin or velvet and the upper part of hand em- broidered chiffon in the same color. The waist always matches the upper part of the skirt, so as to give as long and unbroken line as possible, for this combining of two materials has a ten. dency to cut the figure uhbecOmingly. Less trying to the figure is the line with decided bias effect, one side of the skirt in cloth or velvet and the other tn silk.
 For evening wear the houneed skirts are not yet very popular, but more of them are coming in as the season pro- gresses and the costumes of 1860 are evidently destined once more to gain
 4Io,,.ol...e .lS full skirts suggest erinoline, and the ma terials and trimmings are most suggest i've of the fashions of the time just after the American Civil war. Pleated and gathered skirts of tulle and nous seline, with narrow rufhes or founees headed with pipings of satin and bands of tiny artificial flowers, with knots of ribbon, certainly remind one of the gowns in the old family portraits
 A more elaborate rendering of the same fashion is also noted in the superb brocaded silks, with hounees edged with narrow fringe. But these are by no . means the only models worn and besides that there is such large variety of the most beautiful materials to choose from.
 Bands of fur and bands of embroidery are extremely fashionable as trimming on the new skirts. One of the newest models for a street costume is of rough serge, the jacket of medium length and the skirt trimmed with a band of bear fur. The collar and sleeves are fin ished with the same fur. It is smart model and the lines are simple and be- coming to slender figures, so that it may become popular design later in the season.
 Many of the little evening wraps are of light and airy material, equaling in thinness the gowns themselyes. Others and more sensible wraps are of velvets which are again in high favor. These velvet wraps, when trimmed with Per sian trimmings, or jet in it's various as sortments, are extremely handsome. The lining chosen with an evening cape has much to do with the effectiveness of the garment, and usually contrasting col or is chosen, harmonizing with the outer material