The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-03

also writes of 'shula ka laau.'7 or
dance TO the beating Of sticks, held at
the home OF Queen Keopuolani at La
hama. SIX women, he tells US. dressed
IN yellow tapas, covered with ieis of
flowers and with branches Of male
around their ankles, danced with great
decorum, while five musicians. each
with a staff in one hand and stick of
hard wood in the other, furnished the
music. Both musicians and dancers al
ternated in chanting songs in honor of
the old gods and chiefs to the gratifea-
ton of the crowd. This entertainment
closed IN a manner unique yet quite in
keeping with the simplicity of those
days. Queen Keopuolani requesting the
performers TO cease as the time had
arrived for evening worship. all then
sat down in front of the house, a hymn
was sung, verse from the BIble read
and sermon listened to by an atten-
tive audience.
Another garment in common use was
the kihei- This mantle, square in shape,
worn by tying two corners together of
the same side and passing the head
through the opening thus made, leaving
one arm and shoulder bare, the knot
resting on the other shoulder, has been
compared to the toga OF the Romans.
Those of US who have ever seen it
worn by some Hawaiian of command
ing presence, can appreciate the follow
ing description of Kealiiahonui of Kau-
,.eV. Mr.. Cheever writes in 1923,
He has handsome face, and in the
classic drapery of a yellow satin malo
and purple kihei, he presents as perfect
model of manly beauty as ever ehal-
lenged the efforts of pencil or chisel. -
Again referring to the same chief later
on, he says, Twenty years have
not altered his fine proportions or bent
his noble athletic form, although the
classic malo and kihei have given place
to the European jacket and trousers. =
It is an interesting fact that the house
now standing on the premises known as
Haalelea Lawn, was built by this same
chief, Keahiahonui. His wife, the Prin-
cess Kekauonohi. afterwards became
the wife of Haalelea, who was the
brother-in-law of one Of the daughters
present today, Mrs. Coney.
From its very nature, tapa, especially
as an article of clothing, exposed to
all kinds of weather, was perishable.
and suits had to be often renewed.
Hence in houses set apart for the pur-
pose the Importance of this industry
was recognized. Each Hawaiian with
the exception of the very poor had
a house built close to the dwelling place
for the beating of tapa and TO the
women of the family fell the task of
making and perfecting this beautiful
cloth Mr.. Ellis in his interesting
''Tour of Hawaii. - refers to the tapa
| industry in the following words: . For
several days past we have observed
many of the people bringing home from
their plantations bundles of young
wauke, from which we infer that it Is
the season for cloth making IN this
part of the island. - Again he says,
"'This morning we perceived Keoua,
the governor g wife, and her female at
tendants with about forty other wo-
men, under the pleasant shade Of
beautiful clump of kou trees, employed
in stripping off the bark from bundles
of wauke sticks for the purpose OF
making cloth. He adds, s'Keoua, not
only worked herself, but appeared to
take the superintendent Of the whole
party. Whenever a fine piece of bark
was found, it was shown TO her and
put aside TO be manufactured into wal
liiIii OF some special cloth. With livery
chat and cheerful song they appeared
10 bepuiIe the hours of labor until noon,
when having finished their work, they
repaired to their dwellings" The fol
lowing description Of an anniversary
festival in the time Of Kamehameha IL,
is also interesting as coming from an
eyewitness. and gives US an idea OF
the lavish manner in which tapa was
used on eeremonious occasions. Ihe
writer (Mr. Stuart) says of kInau,
daughter Of the great Kamehameha,
''She was wrapped in such quantities
Of native cloth as not to be able TO
move without assistance. having sup
porter on each side and number OF
attendants preceding and following her,
bearing the ends Of her drapery. . Ke-
kauonohi.'' he tells US, appeared eos
tuned in the same manner on TINS oc-
casion - and adds, "the young Pm
cess Nahienaena dressed in native clo@l
and seated on tapas of more than a
hundred thicknesses, was borne IN on
the shoulders of dozen Of her ehleI
men,
The rare specimens seen in the
Bishop Museum today show the choice
quality Of the tapas OF the Old DAYS
and speak with silent eloquenee OF the
taste and skill of the early daughters OF
Hawaii. IT, as Ruskin says, "lt IS
not question of how much we are 30
do. but of how it is TO be done, have
thew not set US an example worthy OF
imitation on all lines. by giving rs
in tapa the best Of its kinds