Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-07-07
COSTUMES FOR SUMMER SPORT

should occupy on the waist-lining.
While il involves a little more trouble,
it is rather more accurate, particularly
for the dressmaker without great ex-
perience. Even an experienced dress
make. will prefer TO be extra cautiouh
when she first attempts a new style that
has some novel points of construction.
1t is simple matter TO cut girdle,
using the provided pattern and odd
scraps of cambria lining Cut this care
| fully, mark the perforations, haste the
seams and fit the girdle 0Ver the waist
! lining with the waist-lIne perforationS
of the girdle directly at the natural
waist-line OF the figure
! Transfer these perforations, ard those
| for the high waist-line, TO the fitted
waist-lining by pinning thr ough both
Innings at each set of perforatiyns then
turning over the edge OF the girdle and
making continuous line OF basting-
stitches on the waist-hniug, using the
folded edge of the girdle as a guide
| The girdle has now served its purpose,
and may be removed, but kept with
the pattern for future use. A we'll
fitted girdle support may be put to sew
! eral practical uses.
NJ Draping the Skirt
The skirt is now to be draped to the
waist-lning pinning its upper edge to
the line indicated for it on the lining.
The skirt may be fitted, at the normal
waist-line, as closely to the figure as
desired, making of the completed gown
a princess or Directoire model, as either
one or the other may be more becom-
ing. With waists of the bolero type,
the waist portion usually overlaps the
top of the skirt, even when the latter
is finished with a girdle in either crush
or plain strap form
When waist in regulation waist
length is adopted with the skirt into a
one-piece costume, il should be draped
on the lining before the skirt, and the
excess material, below the traced high
waist-hue, cut away. A high-cut skirt
mounted on its supporting girdle, may
be WORT as a separate skirt over al
most any ,egulat on-length waist, but
such an arrangement will result in sew.
eral unnecessary layers of material
about the waist, and is hardly desirable
for even a slender figure.
The girdL supported skirt is, how.
ever, particularly we'll adarted FOR wear
with an unlined lingerie or silk waist.
The necessity for an extra belt or girdle
is avoided, and there is no danger of
the unsightly separation at the back be-
tween skirt-belt and outside belt The
lingerie waist, being thin, will not APP
preciably increase the size of the waist
Consider Your Figure
1t is by no means a hard and fast
rule that the patterns high waist line
must be made the same actual line at
the top of every skirt You may have
some deviation Of figure which, though
slight, has necessitated some alteration
fitting in the vertical lines OF waist
and skirt, and it is quite as important
that the few horizontal lines shall be
individually suitable. The same posi-
ton of bands and 1ounces cannot be
expected to be equally suitable for a
3o-inch and 43-ineh skirt length.
orrespondingly, shorter length
from neck TO waist-line may require
that the high skirt-line be lowered a
bit II is easily understandable that a
stout figure may not gracefully wear a
very broad girdle. For best effects, the
latters breadth should diminish proper
tionately with the inches that are added
10 bust and waist measure. On general
principles. one piece of advice 10 a
stout woman is to avoid horizontal
lines.
Breaking the wais,.Tins
The skirts high waist-lne may be
broken to good effect by bretelle- like
straps. that cross the shoulders and ex-
tend down on the skirt, well over the
natural waist-line. They should be
braided or otherwise trimmed