davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

differing, of course, for each article.
square case about eight inches in size
being good for both handkerchiefs and
net wells. while for gloves a case about
IA by is good. It is not necessary
to go by any exact measurements, how
ever. and often the width of the case
is determined by the breadth of piece
of ribbon which 1t is desired to use for
the purpose.
Stiff cases of covered cardboard, the
side pieces held together by ribbon
strings, are also liked by many girls.
A piece of cardboard Of the desired
size is cut from an old box and COW
cred first with single thickness of
cotton wadding through which mix
ture of orris root and heliotrope has
been plentifully sprinkled. After the
wadding has been basted on the ribbon
cover is added, either silk, satin or
brocade being used, silk ribbon, Of
course, being easiest to work with be-
cause of the selvage.
There should be, as well as the other
cases, a bag for every Shoe as much to
protect the shoe itself from scratching
as to do away with the quantities of
paper with which at one time a well
pretty fowered material will do for
a shoe bag, although for patent leather
slippers the bag should be of flannel.
There should be a corset bag, too, in
all we'll fitted out trunks. This last
is made of ribbon about five inches In
width, IN length of course made to At
the corset, the bag being drawn in at
the top with. pretty strings. This same
style of bag of six inch ribbon and
about three yards in length is made
for parasols, regulation umbrella cases,
in which the sunshade must be tightly
wound round the stick, being imprac-
ticable for constant use, as they cause
the silk to crack at every crease. A
parasol, when not in actual use, should
always be kept in a case of this sort,
which protects the pretty handle from
scratching or fading out, as wen as
the silk from becoming soiled.
There could be no more acceptable
gift for a friend about to start for
boarding school or on a trip abroad
than complete outfit of pretty bags
and cases in either chintz or ribbon
for every article from her sponge and
brush and comb to her slippers and
parasol. With these might be included
half dozen tray covers of fine madras
or linen, with the owners initials
daintily embroidered at one end or in
the center, for in extensive or con-
tinued travelling tissue paper soon be-
comes torn, while a real tray cover
needs only an occasional visit to the
laundry to keep the trunk looking al
ways smart and trim whenever opened
by inquisitive customs officials.
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

Such lines are always misleading
to mere acquaintances. who are apt to
imagine that the furrowed face indi-
Gates furrowed disposition, and that
is something from which most women
and all men fee. More than one really
lovable girl whom knew in my youth
full days Is now 'braiding ST. GATHERINGS
tresses' simply because she spoiled her
chances of happiness by habitually ap-
pearing in wobbling hats, bedraggled
skirts and dusty shoes.
THE girl who is not pretty" con-
cluded the April grandmother. should
be particularly careful about dressing
neatly. The consciousness that the toilet
is beyond criticism Is an important aid
to any one who is endeavoring to cul-
tivate attractive manners-an asset
which will be Of infinite value long
after bright eyes have become dull.
pink cheeks have faded and slender
fingers have broadened."
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

ribbon trims the all white dotted Swiss
jumper dressing sacks. which are
drawn on over the head, but many of
those made in this style of f1orally
printed muslin are edged with colored
scalloping, while the ones composed
wholly of white muslin embroidery
wide fiouncing do not require any trim
ming.
Tourists dressing sacks of the sort
that may be folded into small compass
and even laundered by the amateur, If
absolutely necessary. are of cotton
crepe printed in Persian effects, of al
batross bordered with wash ribbon and
OF challie edged with scalloping.
Equally crushable, but not equally
launderable. are the dressing sacks of
China silk trimmed with valenciennes
and ribbon threaded embroidery bead
ing of India silk and lace and of print
ed satin foulard garnished with rib
bons.
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

should, carry a corner marking in q
pale shade Of pink. blue or green. and
to accompany them are the hard wear
ing huckabacks Of % by AZ inches di-
mension. These may be finished plain or
with hemstitching. and have corner ini-
tials embroidered IN any color suitable
for bathroom
Guestroom towels are OF two widely
contrasting sizes-ths larger almost .
yard square and the smaller only Is By
80 inches. Both types OF towels should
be Of fine. thick linen or Of closely
woven. heavy damask. but they may
be decorated In an infinite variety oe
styles. Among the simplest towels OF
this order are those having edges oe
buttonhoIe embroidered scanops or
points or with widely hemstitched or
drawnwork ends showing a cross stitch
pattern above the hem. A charming
design for an all white damaslx towel Is
oak or laurel wreath surrounding
the distinguishing initial. and another
is dot and eyelet embroidery pattern
used in connection with reticslla
squares or crochet lace bands.
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08
T0weL Collecting

livery girl should take a pride in
her possessions. Her room, for
- example, should be always ready
for inspection, her desk should be or
derly her mantel attractive, with its
pictures and vases; her bureau drawers
IN such order that there need never
be any rummaging for mislaid article.
II is in such things that girls charac-
ter is shown, and it rests with her to
give what impression she will to the
casual visitor.
When she visits. too, she carries
with her a bit Of the atmosphere Of
that room Of hers, and her hostess can
quickly tell from the degree of order in
which the guest chamber is kept Just
what the bedroom at home must look
like. Let her take care, then, to rise
early enough TO leave her room in
shipshspe condition before she hastens
down to the breakfast table.
Even the very packing of the trunk
shows up certain traits of character,
for the naturally neat girl will have a
case for everything and everything in
it's case; will have every collar boned
before she leaves home, so that even
~ the actual packing has been at
tended to by her maid the articles in
the trunk and the cases In which they
are held will be characteristic Of the
girl herself. Nor is it ever possible
TO keep in order all OF ones manifold
collars, belts. wells. scarfs and ribbons
unless each different kind Of article has
its own specially designed case, and IL
the trunk and the bureau drawers at
horae are to look always attractive
th-ss cases must be OF the same kind
OF chintz or ribbon and each box COW
cred with the same design OF paper or
cretonne.
Many girls prefer boxes for their
various wells. belts, handkerchiefs, ETC.,
while others maintain that soft silk
cases are the more convenient Ger
tainly a soft case is preferable in
packing. while perhaps for the major
ity OF small articIes-the accessories of
the costume-fat boxes are better. II
is therefore a good plan to have both
sets, one for visiting. the other for
house use.
For gloves, handkerchiefs and wells
an envelope shaped case IS most gen.
orally employed, the size and shape
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08
Flower Rosettes

INSTEAD of ribbon or chiffon rosettes
on the satin mulls now so popular for
tion rosebuds make a most attractive
finish TO the dainty slipper. These
flower rosettes are easily made and
cost far less than any rosette 10 be
purchased in the shops. The flowers
should first be carefully tied together
and then sewed to a foundation of
buclxram or stiff linen. A ruching of
lace as a border is most attractive or a
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08
Hair Ribbon to Match Stockings

r wISTS of ribbon in the hair are
as popular with the girls this sum
mer as they were last, but there is
a new touch about them which fashion
imperiously decrees. they must pre-
cisely match in color and shade the
stockings. So. as stockings are varied
in hue this season, hair ribbons are
also. and if you wish to look modish
you must not thoughtIessly twist a
blue ribbon around your couture when
you have donned pink stockings. or
vice versa
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

THERE is a charming simplicity In
all frocks for young girls this sum
mer, the many fiounces, rufhes,
frills and ruchings which formerly
adorned all muslin gowns being now
things Of the past. A simple lace coll
shaped to form a yoke, one or two
ruchings or fat bands of lace to end
off the sleeves at the wrists, a few
clusters Of hand tuckings and a band
of embroidery or lace or a ribbon belt
being all that is demanded of a frock
for most formal wear.
Save those gowns which are mass
of French embroidery, there is compar-
atively little trimming of either en-
broidery or lace, and when real or an
exceptionally good quality of machine
lace can not be had then the less at
tempt at trimming the better. Machine
tucking or shirring on thin frock is
also far from smart. and, fortunately.
the simplest gowns this year if prettily
cut and finished will perhaps give just
as Boou erect as tnose OF most elaD-
crate workmanship.
White is ever the favored summer
shade, as 1t is the most economical.
even when frequent laundering has to
be taken into consideration. White
should certainly form the foundation of
a girls summer outfit, with some few
gowns of pink, blue and pale green for
occasional wear. Colored underslips
are no longer worn with even the most
sheer or profusely embroidered batiste
gowns, but bright hued ribbon belts
will prevent any monotony in the all
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

ttT AXE plenty of time to dress, my
lear child" admonished the April
grandmother gently. THE girl
who boasts that she can get ready
to go anywhere within FIVE minutes
usually gives other people the impress
sion that her clothes have been thrown
at her and that she has adjusted them
without the aid of pincushion or a
mirror And no matter how handsomely
garbed she Will not look like a young
gentlewoman If her collar is parting
from it's band, her blouse divorced
from her skirt and her boot heels
covered with CRIME.
BE certain to pin your hat securely"
cautioned the April grandmother. I'm
steady headgear, particularly OF the
present unwieldy type, causes one to
unconsciously make grimaces. which
are likely to become facial mannerisms.
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

The eyebrows are either raised to an
extreme height, causing deep lines ex-
tending straight across the brow, or
the head is tilted so far forward that
the jaw is forced backward, forming
a double chin for the fat faced girl and
network of wrinkles for her thin
sister.
Dressing in haste has its effect upon
the manner as well as upon the appear
ance. The girl who suddenly realizes
a defect in her toilet instantly becomes
self-conscious and behaves awkwardly
or is disagreeable to other people
simply because she Is dissatisfied with
herself That state of mind causes
deep lines running downward from
the mouth corners and curved ridges
about the inner ends of the eyebrows.
hopelessly marring a face before Its
owner is 20 summers old.
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

dai1ions Of lace. A flower design calls
for but little trimming. and for that
reason. If for no other, is often de-
sirable. The waist. If for evening wear.
should be finished only with wide or
narrow lace insertion. Valenciennes and
baby Irish being about equally popu-
lar, forming a fiat yoke. and with
square cut neck and perhaps below the
yoke some few bands OF the lace run
ming down the waist between bands Of
narrow tucks. The sleeves reach just
below the elbow and are quite narrow.
finished of with a fat cuff fashioned
like the yoke. The yoke should be
either square cut or rounded and be of
correct depth to reach just to the low
neck slip underneath.
For evening collarless gown Is ex-
tremely pretty and most suitable. for
this fashion has now become so popu-
lar that 1t has burst all bounds OF
reason and good sense. and a girl who
restricts this so comfortable form OF
dress to afternoon and evening wear.
never going without a collar when In
the city or in travelling. will be sure to
be in good style. Naturally. the high
boned collar is more trouble. for any
kind of standing collar must be made
to stand UP we'll and fit perfectly, but
IT may be noticed that a good collar is
characteristic Of well dressed girl
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

- nee a girl is sufficiently tall and
can wear a tailor made suit be-
comingly her gowns will be
somewhat different style from the
guimpe dresses and frocks of that de-
scription generally becoming to girls
Up 10 Is or 16 years Of age. The lines
Of ali coat and skirt costumes are
such this year that. although some
what severe. this style Of dress is not
at all too old for a girl Of 1e. and now
adays coats and skirts to match in lin
en- or pique are smart for very young
girls even though the skirt does not
reach TO the shoe tops and the coat
is a loose back REFER.
Guimpe and suspender dresses IN
linen, pique, duck and even lawn are
worn up to Il or Il years Of
age. but for older girls simple frocks
Of a princess model buttoning either
In front on one side or down the back.
finished with turned down lace or
embroidered collar and leather belt
are more in vogue. In some of these
models the belt consists of stitched
band OF the material while others are
finished with a wide belt of suede or
patent leather.
For both afternoon and evening
dotted swiss is once more fashionable
and trimmed only with fine point
d'esprit embroidery the dresses Of this
material are all exceedingly pretty.
organdie, batiste, lowered silk nous
seline and soft clinging null are all
attractive for summer gowns, but in
short dresses the fabrics with SO little
stiffness as swiss and organdie are
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

a n OURNING costumes for very young
M\ girls are always somewhat OF a
now considered appropriate for even
deepest mourning, but the frocks must
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

band of gathered satin ribbon win give
the same effect
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

the armholes. with nounce edged
with the same narrow valenciennes to
give a certain fare about the hem. 1t
Is a good plan to have wide piece of
betting stitched about the inside of
this slip, for this stiff ribbon Will hold
the garment in place and make any
boning unnecessary. Nearly all these
frocks have a piece of betting at the
waist line. or If there Is only a band
of fine lace about the waist this is held
in neatly by three to five pieces OF
wide feather boning. This betting.
which has been introduced only a little
more than year. has made a remark
able difference in the fit and effect
of all thin as we'll as heavy dresses.
and is now as important part of a
schoolgirls morning dress as for the
most close fitting tailor costume.
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

ELOWERED materials - organdie.
null. lawn with pink the domi-
nant color-are more in favor than
the plain shades Of pink or blue re-
lieved with insertions or appliqued mo-
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

white. Round belts of moire ribbon
boned to be about three inches wide,
finished in back with one or two fiat
rosettes instead of long sash ends, are
more in vogue this summer than the
wider girdles of a year ago. Sashes
with long streamer ends are worn by
quite little girls. but the ribbon belts
held in shape by one or two pieces of
boning are smart for older girls. When
sash ends are becoming they may, Of
course. be worn, but as a rule the plain
round belt is preferred.
~ NCE again there are tucks and
L sometimes rows of shirring laid
about the hips in. the majority of
dresses of sheer texture. The tucks
run down the Skirt to within a few
inches of the knees, while when shir-
ring is employed it reaches only to a
depth of some six inchesl or less below
the waist line.
The so-called 'Moyen Age" model of
the deep yoke skirt, which is fat about
the waist and hips, with the lower part
The San Francisco call., 1909-08-08

L1hOUGH august Is the 0OlloSb
n month OF the year, It has been
~ set apart in this country for the
height OF the summer season,
when all outdoor festivities are
at their gayest and most formal
pitch. Naturally. the younger members
Of society, the future debutantes and
social leaders Of the coming decade,
are not as much Influenced as the older
folk by the demands OF formal life OF
the community in which they dwell,
but in every summer colony even the
youngest maidens move IN certain well
defined little cliques. with their own
special dances and other forms OF
amusement. and they. as well as their
older sisters. must be provided with
correct. If simple. midsummer outfits.
While to a certain extent less costly
than a summer trousseau OF a grown
up, there is after all little difference
between the style and kind OF frock
worn by a school girl and that Of her
debutante sister. She must have her
tennis dress, her dainty waists and well
fitted separate skirts. her smart after
noon gowns Of linen. lawn or organdie
and the pretty party frocks, with col
larless yoke and half length sleeves.
She must have also at least one smart
linen coat and skirt. and a similar
suit in white serge or homespun, while
her hats. though OF simple design. are
numerous. For evening. instead OF
decollete dinner or ball dress. a pretty
frock, with Dutch neck and elbow
sleeves. is worn.- low gown being
Inappropriate until the season, or pos
sibly the year before, she is to come
put.
New-York tribune., 1909-10-31

the host in a rickshaw and | on tall gray
country bred pony, through miles OF beautiful
forest cool of midday and chill OF evening
through patches of open country and elephant
grass in the burning sun, across swamps r1nged
round with tall feathery date palms and wild
figs, along the wide belt of papyrus reeds that
for miles fill the entire channel and valley OF
the Seziwa River, the Niles first important
tributary from the west below RipOn.
And whether along the forty miles OF twelve
foot main road or the two hundred miles OF
base line and still narrower tapping paths, the
latter sometimes fifty yards apart and some
times a thousand, according to the plenty or
scarcity of tapable trees ever about us rose
the tall silver gray of shafts of the Fntn'nnrd,
sometimes standing singly sometimes IN close
clusters of dozen or twenty, each bearing the
brown scars of the tappers knife.
The station buildings usually set on well
cleared Interests, the superintendents' houses
neat bungalows rooted with tin, whose walls.
lintels, doors and window frames are made OF
the bamboo-like stems of the elephant grass,
bound together with strands of fibrous bark,
quickly and cheaply made but snug and
cool.
OF evenings the nearby native hut villages
are ringing with shouts and laughter over all
sorts OF merrymaking horseplay, or over wrest-
ling matches not widely differing from or IN
feriOr to the Greco Roman style.
New-York tribune., 1909-10-31

dawn and taking a shotgun for birds and
heavy IS pistol on the chance OF a crack at a
croc | started in my hosts great slXty-foot
war canoe for cruise along the reeds Of the
lake shore and to get view OF R1pon FallS
from the west.
lust as was stepping into the canoe. near at
hand up rose true Nile ibis and lovely iaven-
der hued crested crane Dropping them with
right and left sent them to the house for ap-
proval and three hours later had the ibis beau-
tifullv roasted for breakfast-dark tender
meat in flavor much like prairie chicken
while the crane was condemned for everything
but personal beauty.
AS we glided gently along through alternat-
ing patches of lotus pads, reeds. and still
shadows, never have seen predatory life active
in such varied forms and on such colossal scale
Beneath me in the shadows big fish were
darting savagelv after the little ones.
Above, a sort Of black and white kinghSher
poised stationary, with chin bent tight 70 chest.
sharp beak dOwn-pOinted, fierce little eyes hun
grily searching the depths forty OF fifty feet
below him, wings beating so rapidly, 70 NAM
tain his poise. YOU could scarce see them and
then down straight at his quarry like lump
of lead he would drop, drop. disappearing en-
tirelv under water for second or two. TO rise
full or empty clawed 4Ccording 10 hunter 5
luck.
Along the lakeshore the air positively
swarmed with insect life, chiefly flies individu-
allv so small YOU can scarce see them. Often IN
midlale for miles gray TO black columns may
be seen rising several hundred feet from the
water which look like the smoke of freshly
stocked steamer fires. but are really swarns OF
tiny flies, which, once your vessel runs into
them shut out all view like the denseSt fog, and,
if at night extinguish all lights.
All about me on the lotus pads dainty little
lemon hued birds were hopping about indus
triously picking for their insect breakfast. while
aloft at times the air was fairly black with
swallows darting hither and yon like the aerial
corsairs they are, to whom all flies are prey
V-shaped flights of black divers big wild
geese were ever passing, or groups Of them
standing the little rock pinnacles that rise
a few feet above the water 70 the falls
wings extended spread-eagle fashion and laziy
tapping apparently a sort of warming up for
a deep plunge after passing fish.
Distant narrow black lines on the water that
disappeared as | advanced We're the heads OF
crocodiles, too wary to permit Of near approach
by boat.