New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1909-10-10

on the Russian coat, as they are on most OF the
other STYLES. Indeed. buttons form one Of the
trimming features of the new outer garments
one Of the late ideas with regard 10 the single
breasted coats trimmed with deep shawl collars
is that they shall be fastened on the hip well to
the left side. This is accomplished by having the
left side lap over and cut into deep point p
single big button being there placed as the
only fastening. AS the coat begins to cross over
at the bust line 1t is also well adapted to cold
weather use.
While there has been some talk OF shorter
coat. the evidences Of II are hard To find. Some
are shown, 20 be sure. but they are mostly of
the nondescript variety that will make little. if
any, impression upon the present season. Why
would il not he an excellent rule for the fashion
makers to follow long suit coats for winter and
short ones for summer Certainly there is a lot
of common sense in this suggestion. But then.
as men are SO generally the makers of fashions.
perhaps II is altogether too sensible for them To
follow OF course, there times in the sum-
ner when a long coat is a necessity. but this is
generally when separate coat is required.
The most fetching short coat model shown in
Paris and which will soon make its appearance
here I'm .7ressy costumes. is intended for soft
silks or .,rher equally light weight materials and
for this reason will he more favored in the early
during
season. The skirt was in two sections the
upper one reaching 70 just above the knee
moulded the figure smoothly and was Of the soft
silk. the lower one was OF cloth of the same
shade as the silk and cut I'm a shaped founce so
that II was sufficiently wide to admit Of easy
walking over this was Worn the ftved blouse
YES blouse but one that chung 10 the figure.
This was made with a deep yoke extending 70
The bust line, and the upper parts Of the sleeves
We're cut i'm one with this yoke To this was
attached straight piece OF the silk some twenty
inches long This straight piece was stretched
fat across the figure. and the little fulness az
the waist lire was drawn in by means Of shir-
ring done over a tiny cord. The lower edge Of
the coat was cut down in a deep point over
each hip and was bordered by a three-tnch band
~ silk embroidery worked in the matching
shade 10 the material. A slightly narrower band
OF embroidery concealed the joining Of yoke and
lower portion and extended across the sleeve.
The upper sleeve formed soft puff To just
above the elbow. and the lower portion was tight
fitting 10 the wrist. where il finished with
band OF embroidery. with lace ruffie falling
over the hand This model serves more as an
indication N the trend Of future styles than as
one that viii make any considerable impression
on prevailing modes.
The fashion dictum for skirts is that they
they be separate skirts tailored suit skirts or
costume skirts To attain this much desired
end in tailored skirts the hip yoke plays an ell
important role. There is scarcely a model in
short skirted styles that does not show some
form Of hip yoke. Though perhaps, it is ex-
IRENE 10 say that in the skirt cut in two sec
tions the upper portion is a yoke certainly it
serves the same purpose. for 1t is plastered TO
the figure in the same way as the fashionable
yoke
II is some form Of the pIeated skirt that viii
be most popular this season. Innumerable
changes are rung upon this dominating idea.
one finds box peated skirts, and side pleated
skirts. and skirts with sectional pleatings Some
Of these latter have a panel front and back
and the pleats let in at the sides. Others have
the plain side pieces. and the pleats set in the
back The great difficulty with the new skirts
VIII be 10 get the proportions OF the yoke or the
upper and lower sections correct, so that they
are at the same time graceful and becoming.
There is a tendency TO curve in the centre sack