Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-13

and also for joining unlined yokes to-
dresses or waists. The regulation three
| eighthsinch seam is stitched in the usual
manner-the raw edges toward the inside
of the garment; one edge is then
trimmed off, leaving only enough cloth
to extend safe distance beyond the
stitching. The remaining seam edge is
turned under and hemmed either by hand
or machine to the cloth, covering tho
stitching and the narrow raw edge Of
the first sea1n
Inserting Lace
There is so much inexpensive lace 10
be found, principally the French and
German Val limitations, that it is greatly
used to trim even the most inexpensively
planned garments; but the very cheap
qualities have little of beauty or service
to commend them; only the better
grades, which closely follow the real lace
patterns, are suitable for the really nice
! clothing that one expends the time and
labor to make. For underwear it will
Ebe infinitely better to Use ruffles and frills
OF the material, which may or may moi
be edged with a narrow lace. A very
good effect, without the use of lace, is
| obtained by making the frills of fine
sheer lawn or dirnity, the contrast with
the nainsook, cambria or longcloth Of
which the garment is made greatly in
creaslng their decorative value.
If simple frills seem falling into disuse
it is because the art of preparing them
properly-stroking the gathers, it used to
be called-is practically lost art, yet
without this neat stroking the frills lose
greatly in value and Importance. A
small section of frill, gathered and
stroked, is shown at illustration III.
The gathering is done in the usual
manner, with what is called the uneven
runnlng-stitch, the stitch on the UNDER
side being only half the length of that
on the upper, though all the stitches on
either side must be alike in length. Do
not use thread that is too long; if tho
gathered edge when finished is to bs
more than three-quarters of yard long,
1t IS better to use two threads and divide
the ruffle into halves, marking at each
division with a colored thread; divide
and mark the edge to which the ruf1t
IS to be applied in the same manner.
After the edge is gathered, draw thu
thread out at the left-hand side of tho
gathers, drawing the edges up very full,
run in pin perpendicularly into tho
lett-hand end of the ruffle and wind tho
drawn-out thread around it under tho
head and the point in the form of thu
figure s. Use coarse needle to stroke
and place it in the fold of each stitch,
laying little plat toward the left and
holding it under the thumb of the lef,
hand.
Gathering Rufae
DO not scratch the material will, m,
needle; use it only to stroke each plait
gently into place. After the gathers ara
stroked. remove the pin at the end and
distribute them evenly over the length
OF thread. A ruffle gathered in this way
must be attached in manner that will
conceal the raw edge. If only a seam al
lowance is provided, lay the right side
OF the frill against the right side of the
garment to which it is to be attached,
With the seam edges even; haste the
seam, then lay over the frill a narrow
piece OF the material to serve as a fac
ing and include its edge in the same
seam and stitch it. Turn the facing
over on the inside of the garment; turn
under the edge and hem it. This finish
is sometimes called false hem.
At illustration " is shown the method
OF inserting the frill in regulation hem
Cut the hem along its lower fold edge
seam the frill to this edge, then turn
under the lower edge of the underfold
of the hem and hem it, either by hand 0,
machine, to cover the raw edges of thu
seam.
There is another method of gathering
a ruffle that was commonly employed BY
the expert needleworkers of our grand.
mothers day, and that is the rolled and
whipped rufle shown at illustration v.
There is little knack to the rolling,
which, however, may be readily acquired,
and the stitch is regular overcasting-
stitch taken at regular distances over the
rolled edge.
The rolling is begun at the right-hand
side by rolling over the corner, and once
started is easily continued across, being
done by the thumb and finger of the left
hand and kept only far enough ahead Of
the whipping to have the edge properly
for each stitch. These gathers
require no stroking, as the drawing I'm
of the thread folds each stitch into its
proper place. There is no raw edge ia
be disposed of when whipped ruf1e il
to be attached to garment. The ruffle
is measured, the fitness distributed
evenly over the desired space. then hold.