davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23
How to Make Newest Motor Wells

will prove ample, and it is, of course,
easier to border one of these wells
along selvage edge.
The lace that is used may be. of
course, as costly as desired, but a
fairly good imitation Valenciennes will
be quite fine enough for ordinary use.
For an ecru or coffee co1ored veil the
lace can easily be dyed to the de-
sired shade with a solution of strong
tea or coffee, experiments being tried
first with small piece of the lace
until the exact hue is obtained. In
gray it will probably be possible to
find the right shade in the shops. for
gray in all It's tones, from palest silver
to deepest steel color, is one of the
most fashionable and popular shades
just now. 1t is really not difficult to
dye lace, however. and the girl with
small amount of ingenuity can make
herself fascinatingly pretty motor wells
of pink. blue. mauve and palest green
to match the ribbons on her dainty
summer frocks.
White wells, while perhaps not so
good protection against sunburn and
glare, are too pretty with summer
gowns not to be worn. This same
style of veil in all white or cream
color is extremely pretty, but this
veil is really exceptionally smart in
every shade. light or dark.
The lace is put on quite fat, not
gathered as formerly. and a thin inch
width is perhaps the best. Instead of
lace, a fiat band of ribbon or bias
band of silk may be employed, and IL
the chiffon is of an unusual shade,
which can not be obtained in lace. rib
bon will answer the requirements al
most If not quite as we'll
The long, wide motor wells are worn
over the entire face and hat. the ends
being crossed at the back and brought
around to be fastened under the chin,
thus protecting the collar of the gown
as well. Scarcely practicable for tour
ing, these wells are simply intended
for short country runs, when COM
paratively large hat Is worn and only
a linen dust coat thrown over the deli
cate lingerie gown.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23
Attractive Birthday Gifts

doll, dressed in knitted Tam o. Shan
ter, sash muffier, sweater, trousers and
leggins. is seated on a 10 inch long
white pine sled whose top surmounts a
clock mechanism which will cause 1t
to glide along as swiftly as though
moving over ice.
Among several kinds of fascinating
music boxes is one having imbedded
in its top a large disk representing
figures of people and animals standing
on a metallic base. Beneath the disk
is a magnet which traverses the under
surface so that when the crank which
governs the musical apparatus Is
turned. the magnet, passing beneath
the miniature figures. attracts their
metal footpieces and causes them to
skate about the pond.
A novel toy bank, FIVE inches high. In
the form of a sphere, consists of two
halves bolted together and footed. 1t
is heavily nickel plated, equipped with
a lock set in circular door and has a
coin slot so protected on the inner side
that 1t II impossible to extract coins.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

nT o. longer can one wear a simple
M length of chiffon for an automo-
Y bile veil. Today every detail of
motor dress must be just as
perfect as is required in any other
style of costume, and, after ALL why
should one not be becomingly and at
tractively gowned for this sport as
ming or any other pastime or form of
of exercise?
The new motor wells are extremely
large, both wide and long, as this has
been found the most servieeable style
of veil for general use. Some are of
heavy chiffon, others Of comparatively
fine chiffon cloth, while others again
are OF coarse fish net lined with thin
mousseline de sole or perhaps chiffon
of soft gray or ecru, bordered all
around with two to four inch band
of lace dyed the exact shade of the
chiffon. These wells are necessarily
costly and perhaps beyond the limita-
tions OF the purse of the average school
girl. Fortunately, however, there is
nothing much simpler to copy than one
of these new walls. and the price will
be found to be surprisingly less than
that which is demanded for the i'm
ported original. They are about two
and half yards long by one and half
wide, these newest motor wells, but the
dimensions may be varied in accord
ance with the size of the hat with
which they are worn. A small, round
toque. for example, requires but COM
paratively narrow short veil, while II
1t is desired to protect one OF the large
mushroom hats of the moment the
measures given above will be found
even too conservative. With double
width material a yard and half length
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23
Nails Must Not Glitter

n GLITTERING polish on the nails
~ is no longer approved by Madame
Grundy, who requires at the mo-
ment glaze acquired in most natural
and simple manner. Nails to be pretty
should always be pink and bright.
condition obtained by rubbing them
vigorously against the side of the hand.
It has been discovered that the warmth
and moisture of the flesh makes an
ideal polisher, while. the briskness of
the rubbing gives the desired pink
glow.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

TN the forming OF good manners It is
extremely helpful TO have frequent
i visitors in the house for there is
guests we are on our best behavior.
The hospitable desire to make the
visitor happy. coupled with the nat
ursl Impulse to producs good i'm
preston. causes us 10 take great pains
in regard 70 all the little amenities
which oil the machinery of social In
tercourse, and this effort during the
stay Of the guest should have lasting
effect on our manners. helping us in
stinctively and unconsciously to be on
our best behavior at all times.
When one has the true spirit Of hos
pitality one thinks only of the pleas
ure OF ones guest, whose preferences
end wishes are constantly consulted
and catered TO. Her inclination may
not always be your own. but this does
not affect your compliance with them,
and the laws OF hospitality which re-
ouire you 10 adapt yourself to her are
saiutary. for they teach valuable les
sons in unselhshness and restraint
II older persons are guests IN your
house you have endless opportunities
Of showing little attentions which
charm and which endear you to
those OF the older generation. For
instance, when one OF them enters
the room you always rise and
offer a chair. II some one part Of
the room is more attractive than an
other you guide her TO It, find the most
comfortable seat, offer a cushion for
the back and a stool for the feet. Some
women care for these latter things
and some do not, but they should al
ways be offered. When they are de-
clined do not urge them It is mis-
taken hospitality 10 urge anything. It
is the guests privilege to accept or re-
cline whatever is offered, and her pref
erence should not be questioned. II
you urge in any direction you create
an awkward situation. forcing her to
comply. perhaps out Of sheer polite
ness because you seem TO wish It. when
It is npt her wish at all.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23
Desk Sets for Country Bedrooms

TLTITH just a little trouble a girl
NV can make most attractive desk
set for her country bedroom from
an old leather pad. letter case, etc. that
are now faded or worn and no longer
fresh enough for her pretty writing
table
1t takes patience perhaps to cover the
old pad and paper case neatly with
cretonne or perhaps even pretty crepe
paper. but the result will more thaR re-
pay for the trouble. Chintz or Gre
tonne OF some design that harmonizes
well with the hangings of her room
will give more satisfactory wear than
paper. although it might be a good plan
to experiment first with the paper
Cretonne or chintz can be attached with
dextrine, the only kind Of glue or paste
that will not mar the texture, but if
the article is to be in use at the sea-
shore 1t had best be sewed together.
With the original, pad or letter holder
or whatever articles there may be to
cover right at hand It is not at all
difficult to make covers for them For
the blotting pad. of course. the corners
are first detached and covered, then
when the back has been covered these
corners are glued on once more. II the
old corner pieces are torn or broken
new ones are easily copied in a piece
of cardboard and then covered with the
chintz. II desired they may then be
bound with fancy braid which tones
in with the colors of the material.
From the calendar to the pen tray
and the inkstand all the pieces can be
recovered in this way. and while at first
difficulty may be encountered with the
corners. practice will soon make the
fingers marvelousiy efficient. and by the
time the paper holder Is to be done the
work will have become really easy.
Some girls have been so delighted
with the way In which they have trans
formed their old leather desk sets into
wonderfully pretty and dainty articles
of cretonne that they have gone so far
as to make cases even for the pen
holders. These are made by fashioning
a perfectly dtting case for the handle
OF the favorite pen holder and fastening
1t at the end with glue, or, II the handle
is of cork with tiny brass tacks.
All this sort of work becomes de-
lightfully interesting, and often the
girl who dislikes intensely any kind
of sewing will really enjoy this kind
OF work. which is of such a different
order Should she meet with success
in rsmaking her old desk things she
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23
CoIored Hosiery

TT is not at all smart now to have
your hosiery match your pumps or
low shoes. Except for rainy day
use black has quite gone out of fashion.
and colors of every hue are abroad in
the land. The pastel shades are the
favorites, and when worn with black
leather, green or wistaria are most pop
ular, though dull blue rivals them.
particularly for town wear. With gray
suede rose red stockings form pretty
contrast, while quite the prettiest thing
with bronzed kid are the delicate pastel
blues
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23
A Scarf Summer

TT Is going to be a scarf summer and
girls who have not a variety OF
i these fascinating accessories to
their toilet should acquire them as
rapidly as possible A satisfactory
feature OF them is that II ones pur..
Is not long enough to indulge In the
COSTLY Kind they can be beautifully
made at home in Infinite variety. Any
material is suitable. though for even
ing wear the snartest thing Is to have
ne scarf or the same fabric as the
frock- When a hat Is worn the scarf
may be OF any material, but in color A.
must precisely match the chapeau.
Great originality and cleverness can be
oispiayed in fashioning these scarfs.
which are either heavily bordered with
trimming or shot al over with a delft
cate design Much broader and longer
-.an .nose OF last season, these scarfs
are immensely becoming to All typex of
girls. -
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

chrysoprase for a ring would not be
more than so cents and an opal matrix
from 81 up. Then there are no end of
stones in this class which are ex-
quisitely beautiful when daintily set
and are not costly. On the other hand,
there are stones which 1 picked UP in
Europe which, though not in the list
of precious stones. could not be bought
for any such sum as that. For ex-
ample, there is this pin of pink haroque
pearls from Cairo. You will see each
pearl is in the shape of a petal and
all turn the same way, forming a per-
feet orchid. Then there is this lapis
that | picked up at Hadrian villa, in
Egypt; this turquoise from Sicily and
these amethysts from ireland. They
all have a special value and do not
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

will perhaps be inspired to start some
work from the beginning, and instead
OF using cretonne or crepe paper COW
erings finish her work in silk or bro
cade, making desk set appropriate
for the parlor. The heaviest card
board must be used. and IL Is best to
have 1t cut to measurement at the store
where IL Is purchased. as any card
BOARD sufficiently heavy for the use
Is almost impossible TO cut and shape
without special implements.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

TlTHAT to give the very small sis
MI ter or brother when the birthday
w anniversary comes round need no
longer be q problem for the
schoolgirl to worry about. for any OF
the mechanical toys of French or
American manufacture are certain to
delight the recipient One of the
most original types of toys is a fully
jointed girl doll. monkey or dog
equipped with a clock mechanism
which permits it to go through series
Of gymnastics on hanging rings
A novel contortionist, consisting OF
a nine inch high jointed doll Of tin, is
costumed as harlequin. The fig
ure's inner mechanism is wound up by
giving it's arms several forward revo-
lutions and then placing it on some
fiat surface whereon ii will methodic-
ally perform series of somersaults
and other contortions.
A mechanical hoop toy in the form of a
nine and half inch clown viii, when
wound up. revolve upon an irregularly
shaped hoop. A tin and celluloid boy
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

MISS HARRIET KEITH FORBES.
MI who has only recently returned
1Fl from an extensive European trip
in search of odd and curious stones
for her work. tells of the difficulties
in store for the novice in the jewelers.
the possibilities of the craft as an oc-
cupation or business for girls.
ITO design jewelry.'' she says. re
quires the same good taste and deco
rative sense that go to make up sue
cessful dress maker or modste. You
must know. as she does, what is suit
able You must not put heavy. elabo-
rate necklace on a tiny woman or
slender chain and small pendant on
woman of embonpoint. In other words.
YOU must know what is suitable not
only s regards size but coloring and
the kind of stone used.
The decorative sense of knowing
what is suitable is quite as essential
as to know the constructive process.
Women themselves. / am happy to say.
are beginning to understand they can
not all wear the same kind of a neck
lace any more than they can all wear
the same sort of clothes. Even the
shops realize this and do not dare to
have too many gowns OF one style for
their exclusive trade.
You must also learn that each metal
has its own personality, its own in
dividuality Each sings its own song
under the hammer, and you learn to
know the metal, its possibilities and its
limitations by the sound it gives as
you work.
Contrary to the general impression
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

s the number of women experts in
n the craft is still small the personal
n experiences Of one of them hold
enough of interest snd example to
relate.
when I took it into my head to be-
come an expert in jewelry making"
said she. Il thought the only way to do
it was to begin at the foundation. To
do this l made bee line TO the mint to
see the process of refining gold and
silver from start to finish.
ITO make the experiment more real
istic ! took along with me all the old
jewelry and family plate l could lay
contributed generously to the pot. and
1 started in with nearly 500 worth of
odds and ends of ola metal. One rela-
tive gave me forks which had been in
the family for years; another several
rings; others old watch cases, and a
maiden aunt watch chain of antique
pattern, but supposedly of great value
with this bundle of heirlooms
made my way TO the mint, where
turned the precious package over to
the official in charge. discovered that
a good many revelations were in store
for me. One thing I discovered was
that gold when it comes from the re-
finers kettle looks like brass. Also
that all gold has more or less of cop
per, silver or other metal in its COM
position. Worst of all, the truth was
forced upon me that some of my most
revered and cherished possessions, old
family helrlooms that had been looked
upon with deep respect for years, were
nothing but plate, and copper plate at
that.
After the jewels were knocked out
and the metal broken UP and cast into
the furnace I was escorted back to an
anteroom to await the final process 1t
reminded me of nothing so much as
waiting at a crematory to receive the
ashes of some dear, departed friend, for
truly to cast those precious heirlooms
into the furnace seemed precisely like
incinerating ones nearest and dearest
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

wrought into one that she could keeN
for .memory's sake Undoubtedly a.
jeweler would have melted them all up
together. for they were all OF different
carats, but by using three different
kinds of solder combined them with
out fusing them. I finished the ring
with a big oval seal. and IL was stun
ming.
TT is a fashion. too, to have belt
buckles made out OF watch cases I
have made many Of them that way. and
belt buckles from old picture frames.
not to mention charming girdles from
old fashioned chased and fretworl< nap
kin rings. The ring IS cut into per-
pendicular strips, the strips being
fastened together with silver chains IN
ornamental design.
"Old coins are often Joined together
for dog collars and quaint buttons ars
set In metal bands for fletA am
just now making a pendant OF car
nelian, an heirloom IN the owners
family. to be set in copper. The rich
red Of the carnelian and the peculiar
tone OF the metal viii make a most
unusual and pleasing combination.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23
Interior of Jewelry Cfaftman's Woskroom

However, there was quite profit
able return from the ''ashes' when after
the course of half an hour I was invited
to the office to see my gold weighed and
get my money. Instead of 500 got
Ss7. However, that was better than
nothing. though it was not all clear
gain. for my greedy relatives made it
clear to me that l was expected to re-
turn the compliment in presenting them
with modern ornaments the moment ]
became skilled worker. This money
paid for my lessons, though, and
never regretted the experience, for II
familiarized me with the composition
of metals, their possibilities and limita-
tons
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

WI vi
as such it appeals to New
York girls most surpris-
ingly. Girls who have
never done anything more laborious
with their hands than embroider table
centers and lingerie underwear are
now using the bIowpipe and bellows.
the hammer and file with dexterity
and skiH. and some of the jewelry they
turn out shows not only exquisite
workmanship but great originality of
design as well
In fact so clever have women ex-
perts become in the handicraft that
the situation gives the dealers some
concern. They find they must look to
their laurels, for originality. which
aims to suit the setting TO the stone
rather than make the setting an ex-
cuse Tor an extravagant display of
jewels, is a feature Of the new handi-
craft
A branch Of the work which is at
tracing special attention just now is
tho reconstruction of old jewelry into
artistic pendants, brooches, combs and
buckles. This has started girls rum
maging for old heirlooms, and as a
result OF the ransacking many quaint
and curious pieces set with carbuncles,
canoes, carnelians, brilliants and coral
have been brought to light and turned
over to the girl who is learning the
goldsmith's art, TO be wrought into
decorative ornaments for personal
wear.
Handsome jewelry is by far the most
popular present for Easter brides this
year. A favorite gift is pair Of slip
per buckles, not only for the bride
herself but for her bridesmaids. Al
ways pretty and effective, when done
by hand they are perfectly stunning
One Of these sets is composed OF dull
silver set with Montana sapphires; an
other. a copper pair. is set with topaz
70 wear with bronze slippers. and a
third is IN oxidized silver with white
topaz. 10 go with black empire gown,
a trousseau robe.
Baby pins. veil pins and rings are
among the popular smaller articles
made by hand, and flets Of metal set
with topaz. sapphires, turquoise matrix
and the like are liked by those who
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

adopt the Grecian style Of hair dress
ing. Watch fobs are a favorite gift
for the girls men friends, and those
of copper set with variscites, a pretty
green stone, and mounted on tan suede
of heavy quality, are very smart.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

GIN fact. there IS no end 70 the pos
sibilities IN this work. and. given
originality in addition to dexter
ity with the hands. there - practically
no limit set on what the hand worker
IN metals may do. From the start some
thing can be made TO wear. There is no
experimenting, for the girl working
under an instructor should have no oc-
casion to spoil her work irredeemably.
It is a lucrative profession. too. IL one
cares to take 1t up seriously.
Though the outnt seems bit ex-
pensive IN the beginning. the outlay is
no more than is called for in any SINH
lar occupation, and. best OF all. there
is a growing demand for the product
all over the country. This. to be sure.
has led some manufacturers 10 copy tho
handmade articles. even to the tool
marks. but this can not lessen the value
of the hand worked product. for indi-
vidual work can never be perfectly du-
plicated. To show the demand for hand
made Jewelry, the last craftsmen's ex-
hibit at the National Arts club sold
more than $4,000 worth OF stun. for the
most part jewelry. Pratt Institute stu
dents. too. who are said to be especially
well versed in the craft. have no DIM
Guilty in disposing OF their work. and
many Of them during their course make
jewelry to order
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

~ ETTING stones is the most diff
cult of all. Some have this done
~ by jewelers. though personally
think it one OF the most interest
ing steps in the process. I am fire.
quently asked how long it takes an
amateur to make piece of jewelry.
I know Of one girl who took week
to make a belt. spending three lessons
and considerable home work on 1T.
know another who did the same In
three days. A pendant, / believe, would
take between three and four lessons.
Just now the craze is to have lucky
stones made up into talismans, and
some curious relics are brought to me
for the purpose. Frequently a woman
wants to preserve bit Of jewelry as
a matter of sentiment. as did one who
brought me three wedding rings to be
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

it is not an expensive or an extrava-
CANT pastime, for now that women
semiprecious stones they are used al
most exclusively. You can get your
stones of a lapidary already cut and
polished if you wish. or do the work
yourself 1t scarcely pays, though
the extra labor-as you can get stones
very cheap. For example, an amazon
ite, which is a most beautiful green
stone and suitable for a pendant.
would be about s1.50. An abalone
blister, not unlike a mother of pearl.
of an inch or more in length and pro-
portionately wide, would not be more
than 81.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23
Gold and Silver Bracelets

:ome IN the other class.
and gold comes at about 20 cents
pennyweight, though, OF course, these
prices vary according to the market.
Silver for medium sized buckle would
probably cost IN the neighborhood of
81. and an outfit could be purchased
for about s12. Lessons are invariably
81 a lesson or eight for SIS. myself
do not teach. as I prefer devoting my
time TO. originating new designs for
orders, though there are plenty who
do.
The OUTFIT would include the vari-
Gus sorts OF nIes. hammers, saw frames.
borax stone for mixing the silver,
drills, solder, a draw plate to draw
down your wire, gauge to get the
proper width of the metal and a bunch
OF rings to get the size Of the finger
Of the person for whom the ring is
meant. yellow. ocher for keeping the
solder cool while working is also es-
ssntial, and a bench, which can be
constructed for s2.50, is practical. In
lieu Of that a table will do.
IF, for example, girl was about
TO start making a belt buckle she
would get the gauge and prepare the
silver by reducing it to the requisite
width. Once the pattern had been
traced on its surface the open portions
are cut out with the saw, which closely
resemble a Jigsaw. Then comes the
real exhibition OF the goldsmith's art,
for 1t is In the hammering, the fling
and the drilling that ones ability Is
tested and the amount OF artistic feel
Ing wrought into the metal that IL
illustrates the workers talent for the
handicraft.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

S the number of women experts in
~ the craft is still small the personal
n experiences Of one of them hold
enough of interest snd example to
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-23

= HILE IL is scarcely fair TO
call the craze for anything
so essentially an art as
Jewelry making a fad. yet
as such it appeals to New
York girls most surpris-
inglv. Girls who have