Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-08-08
Pads and Fashions
By Florence Fairbanks

NEW YORK, August 7.-lt has been obvious for some little time that the fashions of the Moyen age were grow. ing in favor and now, it may safely be said that this style has been ac- cepted by the most fastdious women of fashion in Paris as well as in New York. But, in spite of this fact, Mrs. Paquin has east her eyes around for something new, and it is said she will attempt force upon the tastes of the Parisian woman not only the fashions of Louis XVI, but another fashion which she herself seems to have de- signed and to have stamped with her in dividuality. It possesses the pointed corsage, not in the front but in the center back, the front is rounded off, and even sloped upward. The skirt to be worn with this bodice is very full; in fact it is made in gathers around the hips.
 One of the most recent Paqlin gowns of this style is of soft taupe chiffon over a smoky blue satin. The eorsage is trimmed with folds of chiffon in the tichu style of Marie Antoinette This fastens into a buckle slightly to the left of tLe front, and the waistline of the bodice rises in front to this point, then it slopes off to a deep point in the back. The overskirt is gathered, al though the underskirt fits tightly aud the raised waist gives an effect that suggests the Empire when the costume is viewed from the front On all gowns of this type the sleeves are but elbow length, and scarf is made to carry with each one. These, of course, harmonize with the gown, the one be- longing to the gown just described be ing of taupe embroidered at each end with smoky blue.
 Ever since the beginning of the sum mer season great deal of experiment. ing has been done by Paris designers of fashions, chiefly in the line of drap- cries, and the handsome frocks worn by Paris elegantes have in many eases sacrificed beauty of line to eccentric iy. Many of the linen and muslin frocks worn by Parisian fashion lead CTS this season, and to some extent, by fashionable women in New York, have been so cut up, so Enthusiastically leased with trimming in blocks and points and angles and pufrs and frills that they lost all real charm and, while chic from the fashion makers point of view, could not be called beautiful from an artistic point of view.
 There is every indication that the very first fall styles will follow the lines of the Moyen age mode, which de- veloped last winter. The chief fea- ture of this mode is the elongated waist line, the belt or sash often falling over the hips. The fall models, how ever, will cling to the figure more trim ly and not be as loose and baglike from afmhole to hip, as some of this sum- mer's models have been, and this be- ing the case, waists are bound co grow smaller.
 It is not likely that women will try at this day the absurd thirteen-inch waistline of Catherine de Medici. but it is a fact that some dressmakers aIe already advising their patrons to loosen their cOrsets trihe over the hip and draw it in at the waist With the vogue of pointed bodies, Vatican pleatS and bouffant petticoats established, a change in figure is inevitable and the plump woman who has had to make her self uncomfortable to maintain hip less silhouette may take heart of grace once more, for the Louis costumes will be particularly becoming to her style
 Not that there is any diminution in the effort to look slender. Never was cmbonpoint in such disfavor But there will, undoubtedly be a marked relaxation from the extreme of slen- derness demanded by the styles of the past spring and of the resent season. . Nearly every costume, of whatevei material, has a coat of some descrip- ion as third piece. This garment is rapidly changing shape, and the most conspicuous change is in the slope of the lines at the natural waist, short ening of the kirt part, widening of the shoulders and the tapping of the coat front at or below the waist line, instead c fthe one, two or three button front, closing over the bust and cut away be-