The San Francisco call., 1909-03-28

fective appearance this season
depends wholly on the cut and At
- Of her gowns. be they empire,
princess. directoire. or what not Far
from this being the case, everything
literally hangs on the underwear; and
OF this there is such an astonishing va
risty, both IN materials and shapes. es
10 make It hard TO choose which one
will have. It Is not 30 difncult as II
seems however. once the question OF
price has been eliminated, for most OF
the undsrgarments this year are SO
sxouisitely hand wrought and trans
inquired by laces and embroideries from
the sensible, plain articles they once
were that IL is a veritable tale OF Gin
derslla's transformation told over again
with modern additions in the way of
expense.
The lingerie articles are captivating;
not only by their novelties and by the
dainty workmanship put on them. but
by reason OF the sheer and lovely ma
teriais used in their making. A beau
tiful-and. whisper it-an expensive
gown shown is OF French nainsook. and
is made entirely by hand. bearing the
most wonderful embroideries IN wheat
and flower patterns. The sleeves-a
mass OF the same delicate embroidery
are elbow length and are finished OF
with the double founce which is SO
popular now. Al empire model has the
sleeves very long-somewhat in the
oirectoire style-consisting OF lace in
aertion alternating with rows of tiny
tueks with the fat Venetian effects.
The neck Is high. showing a lace yoke
and small hand made tucks At the
bottom OF this exquisite gown is a wide
lace band. Lace insertions run the
whole length OF the gown, and the
waist is gathered in by blue ribbon.
A trousseau set Is OF the finest linen
wonderfully embroidered in Grecian
pattern. with short sleeves reaching
above the elbow in the gown, which is
farther trimmed with ciuny insertion.
The scroll Grecian design has found
much favor this season The knickers
and chernise OF this set carry out the
design In their decorations and the en-
tire three pieces can be purchased for
quite reasonable sam-se5.
Brassieres are worn great deal An
exquisite one is Of English eyelet en-
broioery on heavy linen and is trimmed
side Of this brassiere has corset
shape which laces in front. so that the
figure can be pulled IN and supported.
while the outside OF the brassiere
hangs loose. This is handsome enough
20 be worn as an outside waist, though
the effect OF all the embroidery and
sheer material worn under another
waist is extremely elegant.
Most of the combinations worn are
are, like the gowns and chemises. a
mass Of delicate embroidery and lace
effects. One charming model is in
Wrench batiste eyelet embroidery with
floral spray design carried out in the
two garments. The knickers are very
wide and are sometimes made to give
the skirt effect. the folds falling very
full IN both back and front so that
they appear like an ample skirt. The
lSnickers are Joined al the waist line
by ribbon run through beading.
A princess combination opens at the
side. This is made Of linen with eyelet
embroidery. showing a tiny beading on
the material and rows and rows or the
most delicate hand tucking imaginable.
This is q three piece combination
skirt. knickers and corset cover The
lOnickers are umbrella shape and are
elaborately trimmed
a princess SID TO De worn with a
sheath gown is of fine linen decorated
with French hand embroidery and has
the perfectly smooth fit over the hips
that the new gowns demand. A deep
hounce is set in at the bottom Of the
slip IN Y shape. This is very full and
is trimmed with French embroidery
snd real valenciennes woven together
in a most charming pattern.
Another slip which is a beauty and
which stands quite alone in its lovli-
ness. has the panel effect ia front.
This panel is made almost entirely Of
cluny insertion. while showing at in
tervals some Of the wonderful tracery
OF the French embroidery. A floral
design is carried out through the
garment, and this is interviewer with
tiny tucls. At the bottom of the slip
is a 20 inch lounce set in TO give an
unusually full effect which is trimmed
with ciuny insertion. tucks and cluny
edging. In this model the embroidery
is carried over TO the lace, which is an
effect seldom seen and which is mar
velously original and delicate.
The two piece combination is the
most liked for wear. though for use
with a sheath gown the slip is pre-
ferred
All this underwear is absolutely
made on close fitting lines and the
former fullness of undergarments is
entirely done away with. one OF the