Arizona republican., 1909-12-28

Insstting
 When a worn spot is to be cut out. | its outline may be marked from the right side by a fine needle threaded with white cotton Pass the needle in, from 1.-the fur side, at each corner go around | the space twice-the second time pass ing the thread oyer the spaces missed in the first. Tack the piece, fur down, to a board, and cut carefully along the thread lines. A bare or badly worn spot | is usually circular, but it is better to make angles in the cutting out l a square or triangular piece, as cir cular shape is more difficult to inset ac- curately.
 When the spot has been cut out, pattern must be cut for the new piece
 that is to be inset Lay the pelt side down on piece of stiff paper and mark,
 with a pencil, around the edge of the cut-out. Before taking the fur off. make mark in the middle of this paper that will indicate the fur side, otherwise, in cutting. the piece may be reversed and not fit into the place cut for 1t.
 Try the open space over the piece of fur you mean to fit into 1t. to be certain 1t runs right. then run fine needle or a small pin in. to mark each corner of the cut-out. Turn the Blcnding- piece of fur over, pelt side upward, and place the paper pattern on it. each corner touch ing one of the inserted pins Mark with chalk around the paper pattern, allowing little over an eighth of an inch. but not so much as quarter. CutZwith sharp knife, in the chalk-marks.
 Sewing the Inset
 The seams. in insetting. are held and overhanded together in the same man ner as described for joining sections of a garment, except that the tape IS not used. The fur IS tackled to a board, stretching it well; then the pelt, which is uppermost, IS wet thoroughly and allowed to remain on the board until 1t IS dry. Artists thumb-tacks or pins may [ be used for the lacking. If many pieces are to be inset, that part of the work is done first. and the one process of wet ting and tacking will provide for all.
 When piece IS so far gone that only small portions of 1t are it to use, these pieces should be gathered together, and when the possible size of the smaller piece is decided upon, 1t should be cut in stiff paper Cor material ii it IS piece that requires fittirg) and the pieces as sembled on 1t. fur side up, to make sure of their matching.
 A Pretty Seckpiccs
 Ore Of the good fortunes of this winter Is that a ncckpiece, suggested by the popular ruffs or Toby-frills of the autumn, consists of narrow band of 1r,f,- for,o, .I throat. tying with bow of ribbon. and each edge. All neckpieces have an inter lining of one layer of sheet wadding CT the soft felt, sometimes used by tailors. over three-eighths of an inch for finish. to which the lining is to be hen,Hied. Before turning over, tape is overhanded to the cut edge
 The interlining IS then tackled to the stitches are taken very far apart The edges of both are then turned over and the tape IS hcrnned or run to the inter lining. The lining IS cut to the shape of the completed piece, seam turned In making a throw, scarf or larger neck piece, the fur must be divided at the and both ends made to run in the same direction.
 Repairing . xuf
 The ends of huff are taped in the same manner, and bed of cotton or wool wadding is fitted inside the fur. Inside the cotton. second bed of down, enclosed in a properly shaped bag, cor with the design of the huff, may be placed before the lining is att .achcd This adds to the cost Of the huff, however. and is not essential to it's making The object is to make the inside soft and comfortable to the hands.
 HELEN n PIIPDYe