Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-03
The Lucullian Dinner of
Many Courses Has Lost
Favor = Busy People
Need Only the Simplest
Dishes.

are living in an era of good taste in all
things There is more of disposition to
stick to drab than to attempt the daring.
For this reason call it conservatism.
In consequence hardly think the term
simplicity applies. There is no return to
the primitive. We are not discarding the
pate de fois gras in favor of hog and
hominy.' as they put it down South. but
we are seeking middle ground. The food
must be elegant. but we are doing away
with many of the frills which the chef
often foisted upon us. The chef, in other
words, is the servant of the patrons in
stead of their tyrannical master.
But New Workers demand much in the
way of food and service. There is no deli
cacy for which they are not willing to pay.
With them the invention of a new dish is
OF more Importance than the writing of a
great poem. But they have grown worldly
wise. Things that were luxuries a few
years ago are no longer such. Dishes that
were eaten because they were the proper
thing and for no other reason. have been
thrust ruthlessly aside. notice this par
ticularly in the matter of shellfish, oysters.
Holsters and similar old favorites.
"AI this tends to shorten the dinner
and as a consequence the courses are
fewer and the portions are more dainty.
This has come about in response to the
demand Of those giving the dinners. II
the early courses are heavy the edge is
taken off enjoyment and the later dishes
are likely to be neglected. A good dinner
should be a progression toward enjoyment
and the zenith should be reached toward
| the end instead of with the entrees. The
direct result of this is simplicity all along
the line.''
At the Gotham, in Fifth avenue, which
has a reputation second to no other hotel
in New York for the altitude Of its prices
and Its air of exclusiveness, the manager,
Mr.. Bennett, has observed a strong tide in
favor of plain foods.
1T is the simplicity of the artistic, how
ever" he said. cit is a victory of common
sense and good taste over a love of ques-
tlona'ble display. I can see quite plainly
desire to return to old things. The service
must be elegant, but the tone is softer. II
is the difference between Flemish oak and
the cheaply polished vanished golden oak
We find that our patrons like to nav g
everything as homelilze as possible. There
is not such a demand for display OF
flowers on the table as there used to be.
Instead there is a dish of fruit which re-
mains throughout the meal. and the guests
NJ
they wish. First class hotels try to pre-
serve quiet air, to reflect as much-as pos
sible the atmosphere of home. Naturally
the foods are pldsaee. Ne courses less in
number and not so heavy
''We find that our patrons do not care to
Guido the old Roman feasts. Good dinners
are not events with them, but something
of everyday occurrence. There is hardly
dish that appears on any menu card I'M
der it's usual name with whose composition
they are not familiar, and it would be diff
fcult to find anything that would be nov
! city to them. With no more worlds to con-
quer they incline to simplicity. It is COM
fort, not sensations, they are looking for.
AS to the character of the service required
1 cannot say too much. Perhaps the easiest
way to describe it would be to tell you that
it must lose nothing in comparison with
that found in the best homes of the city.
! SIN the matter of drinking with meals
should say most decidedly that there has
been a change in favor of moderation. The
Gotham has no bar and our patrons are re-
quested to order their wines beforehand if
they wish to have them with the dinner.
! Many dinners are served without wines
but when ordered they are Of the choicest
quality and the guests partake sparingly
Of them