New-York tribune., 1909-09-05
TIE Aufu1,1r1 Modes Launched
French Designers Exhibit Models for Benefit of Foreisn
Buvers--A "Picture Gown" Season Predicted.

!, tury toilets OF dark changeble silks Th,,-
skirts trimmed with three black lace nc,rr'
the lace edged and headed by tnch-wlde bor -
ings OF black velvet ribbon. The sam. c,.
adornment was continued on the corsax.. nv
were simple costumes of pale pink and bhe ...
and soft tafretas. with their Short round 49,.
trimmed with founces Of white lace. separa4.1 ~
tiny ribbon ruches On each gown tho oor-1
was cut straight across the shoulders and nr,.s
with fall of lace; knots OF ribbon were po.~o
each side So "old-timey'' were these sown. ~
fancied the wearers with hatr softly n...-s
the temples to fall IN stiff riuglets beht.s
the ears with pictured beauties a century -
While the skirts. OF all thin materials ar, an
at the belt line fulness Is cleverly d,.no..
by means OF cores. cutting away beneath ~,
there Is clumsiness. and. generally, the 49,.
hangs straight. with flare. Fur Is seen ~
everything. from heavy street costumes for coa
| weather TO the thinnest materials for danc,,
gowns. A smart walking costume Of dark -
cloth is widely hemmed with fur. and has a -
bag nlur TO match. trimmed at each end w,, e.
Half long. the coat IS cut on perfectly strsa-N,
lines. claspins the hips closely. REVERB cou..
and cuffs are trimmed with fur. Coats lonr a,.
short are lined with silk to match or Of q hr..s.
contrast.
The fancy for black costuming that ha. ~.
sessed the feminine world for the last three month";
continues. 1t - we'll shown IN a costume Of ,c,,
thick black SATIN The short skirt and halr-hr.
coat are trimmed with wide silk braid curved ,,.
Above a band OF astrachau fur the braid oe,,,,
trims the skirt nearly to the knees Narrower ~.
same design finishes the coat
At a house noted for the exquisite cut ana mt,
OF its fur and tailored costumes, cioaks coats ana
Jackets of every length shown. Baby lsrs
coats close fitting. the skirt hung In panels hr,
ton closely over the bust Tho sleeves are IN s.,,
coat form: the Innings bright cOlored satins cran,.
brilliant red apricot pink and Natter blue
Elegant long coats OF striped sable N,
heightened with black mOusselne de soie cover,s
with circling lines OF fur with the nap rnnin,
downward. Arurrs and small shoulder capes vth
long, wide ends, made IN the same r,auns.
Nearly every costume among these first modal.
shown is built OF two materials. cloth Or veiy~t
widely henming satin skirts Is often seen. An oda
fancy and far from pretty one. Is tbs use Of
velvet IN two colors. There Is utter, dfsulsa.
ing lack OF harmony In such mixture. Graceful
enough in FORM gown OF tan velvet was trimmed
with Natter blue velvet The blue faced the col
lar bel.ed the short coat folded wide 70 twist INTO
a handsome bow at the back and ptpod several
narrow bias bands that trimmed the skirt set
their width apart The costume was ftiy topped
by a small turban. composed OF soft. winding folds
of blue velvet trimmed with brown and hlrs
birds wing
For morning wear and for Journeys tsess assls
close fitting turbans OF silk or velvet uos b.
coming No trimming IS allowed q knot os
the velvet a birds wing. For other occasions
there no dirninution IN the size OF hAes and az
the present moment the tendency Is all toward
hats OF black velvet.
There Is a pleasing variety IN sleeves OF svur
length and form. they are made entirely of the
material OF the skirt. composed OF several
fabrics. comprising the trimming OF the corsase
Many are set into the long slit at tho arrnhoIos
that gives a suggestion OF the japanese. and al
have the little elbow fuIness that IN close sleeves
spells comfort. MARGARET ALICE FRIEND.