New-York tribune., 1909-05-23

surprise that It is lined with the coarsest Of
brown linen and the small pads that helped out
the slim figure of its owner covered in
material that should for a -four
sack. Then, too. it betrays the fact that it was
kept in its rigid form by hoop Of steel in
roughly made white cotton casing that must
have been painful to the wearer There was
great deal more care bestowed on the finishing
Of the masculine attire Of the period, and these
marvellous coats of silk, with borders Of Hly-Of-
the-valley roses and forget-me- not, embroid-
cred in natural coored silks by clever and ex-
perienced fingers, have Innings TO match, nicely
put in and evenly stitched down. In some such
coat, King Louis Ky sat on the back seat Of
this handsome little sleigh, with its richly carved
runners and panels. to drive the lovely Nine. de
Aailly across the park Of Versailles. Her bro
caded dress probably was covered with fur
trimmed cloak and hood like this in the oppo-
site cabinet, by the side Of which the heavily
trimmed hats Of the following season look vulgar
and meaningless.
A very useful role is that of the collector.
Some one has made a special study of braces,
and here is a glass case filed with them, Of
which each specimen was a love Offering from
some enamoured lady. These, moreover, belong
to the beginning of the nineteenth century, the
most sentimental of epochs. and the inscriptions
embroidered into the floral designs are quaint.
Love me" and Think of me- constantly occur,
and vows of constancy, briefly expressed per-
force, since the article was only a few inches
long.
NJ. Henri Lavedan has lent to the exhibition
two WaistCoats and q scarf belonging TO the
Revolutionary period The waistcoat of the ter
rible Robespierre is a long. handsome garment
of white silk covered with q small black design.
When examined closely this design is seen to
be composed of notices. emblems and significant
bra
the like. The side pocket is bound with TO
live free and die" and the tyrant's bosom
shows the same device frequently repeated
That formidable and threatening gun carriage
is scattered freely over the whole: as he walked
about in the "gilet" the great man must have
literally breathed out slaughter. Marats "gilet'
is infinitely mild, the contrary. Also of
white silk the design IS a small silver flower,
dropped sparingly over the surface. 1t is the
waistcoat of a courtier rather than a dictator.
AS a pendant to these two historic waistcoats
are two historic dresses. one is a rich blue
velvet errnine bordered gown that belonged TO
Nine. de Maintenon chain Of large. hand
some jewels IS laid round the deep white ermine
border, and the sapphire velvet overdress is
looped back at the sides and forms long
so,tare train ON the head and round the shoul-
over the fall rich lace sleeves The other
gown is the wedding dress Of the Empress
Marie Louise. of fine blond worked all over in
q platinum thread.
These are only few Of the objects shown in
the Musee des Arts Decoratifs. There are
cabinets showing the evolution Of the race and
theatre glasses Of the patch and rouge box, Of
the fan, the parasOl and the umbrella; there
are boots and shoes Of all kinds. lent by the
Cluny Museum for the most part and gloves,
plain painted and embroidered; a beautiful
collection Of mourning ornaments as worn one
hundred and fifty years ago. and made for the
most part Of very finely carved Jet, and a host
Of other accessories Of the toilet. On the
He 1rrT 1fvfEr ting
subject by sixteenth and seventeenth century
artists. c. l. B.