The Washington times., 1909-01-11
DULL SEASON GONE
FROM DRESSNAKING
Post Holiday Period AS AC-
tive AS Any Other.
Clothes Necessary.
FULLER SKIRT
SURE TO COME
Fashions Changes Dictate Aban-
donment of Present Cling
ing Gowns.

AtA 3 W. llos
This is the dun season in fashions
that mid-time after the winter modes
have been announced and before the
spring ones are sufficiently settled TO be
given out. 1t is also supposed to be a
dun season for the dressmakers. but
one modiste, talking the other day. de-
clared that there was no such time
that once she could go away after the
middle Of January and spend a few
weeks in recUperating; now she has not
moment 20 call her own until the first
of August. All Of which goes TO show
that, however depressed times may be,
women must have clothes.
The slightly fuller skirt predicted
recently has not yet made it's appear
snce, but the reason there is going to
be a slightly fuller skirt is plain.
Fashion, like everything else, moves
along. Nothing stands still. Therefore,
since skirts could not possibly become
tighter they must show little more
fullness.
Calls Women Contortonists.
A man talking about the gowns at a
recent german said the mystery to him
was how the girls managed to dance
Women are cOntortlOnists, he sighed.
'else they would never be able TO get
around in those frocks. Give you my
word, they all looked like elongated re-
pleas Of Sarah Bernhardt in her most
miserable days" which was not as COM
plimentary as the ladies' would have
liked, could they have been listening.
Another critic speaking Of the same
german, declared that she had never
seen so many white satin gowns in her
whole life as were exhibited there. and,
indeed, white satin is enjoying a great
vogue among women of all ages.
on an occasional gown one sees
a sort Of glorifed Vatican plat.
which starting at the yoke, lends its
1ullness TO the frOCk about al the knees.
20 that IL does not interfere with the
sheath effect around The hips and does
add becoming fullness at the foot
Stakeholder the Newest.
The newest undergarment is known
rs the sheathbocker. and is quite as re-
maTkable as its name. 1t comes made
both Of nainsook and OF satin and the
s. top part hts the figure closely while
the bocSers are veritable ghosts OF
bOCkers. they have so little fuIlnesg In
them il the new skirt admits OF a few
clothes beneath il. it is 10 be hoped
that women viii go back to their pet
TicOaIs, which are so much prettier and
more feminine Attractive ones are on
the bargain counters now. Just rs frily
and frothy Of lace as though they had
never known eclipse, which some per
sons thought would be permanent
1t IS curious 10 mark the result OF the
fad for empire modes on nightgowns
aud kimonos. The former show slightly
indicated short waist lines. instead OF
falling straight from the shoulders or
from yoke. NightgOWus In these days
show few frills but are much orna-
mented with hand embroidery, fine
tuczlngB and inset lace. The necks are
cut out 20 make a deep decOlleUage. ana
the sleeves are short and fauciful
Extra Long Stays
At the shop OF a corsettiere are shown
stays that reach To the knees Of even g
tall woman. The lower part Of these Is
made Of heavy material. but without
bones. They are slit up here and there
10 allow the wesrer TO move and sit.
should she desire 70 do so although
they must be uncomfortable even with
these precautions. Each flap. II one
may so speak OF the divisions thus
made Is held down by straps OF elastic.
much trimmed. Wearing one Of these
coats Of mail, q woman could have a
gown fitted closely and without a wrin-
iIle quite 10 her knees-an' she would
4 lad OF the hour IS the wearing OF
Srmlets well above the elbow. it IS 8
fashion which makes q pretty arm con-
spicuous and hides the defects OF the
thin one. A special size OF bracelet
comes for this purpose. and a few
women are wearing necklaces Ia this
way.
The narrow, feweled bands that have
been fashionable around the neck for
some time serve well as these top arm
bracelets. OF course the fashionable
gold snake with jeWeled head is in evi-
dence. hideous as the idea Is.
Canoes mounted In hligree gold make
another popular armlet So does Chi
neEe jade set in silver or gold. So far
precious stones have not been used IN
this way, Perhaps they are not bar
barlc enough.
Fair Debutsnte's Gown.
4 debutante at one OF the dances the
other night wore a rose-c0lored gown
which had a chinon-siIk skirt very fine
~ plated. and over 1t was worn a long
tuufc slashed on both sides. The
sleeves were OF the hanging angel or
der. giving a perfect outline 10 the
shoulders.
ore Of the most striking features OF
panel In fact, where evening dress is
concerned the side panel IS almost
necessity. it lends itself so admirably 10
the straight How OF the high-waisted.
becoming dTaperies which we ali affect
nowadays
The panel. which. by the way. is gem
orally introduced ln the way o. finely
plated chiffon or lace. divides the gown
into Two distinct portions Bands Of
JeWelcd embroidery often outline these
panels, which are further emDellished
bR Tiny 1eweIe0 chains or straps
All the smart evening gowns this sea-
son have been noticeable for the rich
ness OF the jeweled and gold and silver
eInbrolderles which have iucrusted
them and these have even been used
20 ornament sur coats. as If the fur
tset were not beautiful enough
a few spring fabrics have already
made their way into the shops. ana the
winter scarce begun What q common
1ary IS ilis upon the up-tO-dateuess. ff
one may so express d.. of the mer-
chant. LEONORE CALVERT.