The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-04-10

and side seams of infants petticoats, and also for joining unlined yokes to dresses or waists. The regulation three elghths-inch seam IS stitched in the usual manner-the raw edges toward the inside of the garment; one edge Is then trimmed off, leaving only enough cloth to extend safe distance beyond the stitching. The remaining seam edge is turned under and hemmed either by hand or machine to the cloth, covering the Z stitching and the narrow raw edge of the first seam
 Inserting Lace
 There Is so much inexpensive lace to be found, principally the French and 2 German Val limitations, that 1t is greatly i, used to trim even the most inexpensively planned garments; but the very cheap qualities have little of beauty or service to commend them; only the better grades, which closely follow the realizes patterns, are suitable for the really nice l clothing that one expends the time aad-f labor to make. For underwear it will f be infinitely better to use ruffles and friI1s ]. of the material, which may or may not . be edged with a narrow lace. A verS good effect, without the use of lace, is {; obtained by making the frills of fine ! sheer lawn or dirnity, the contrast with { the nainsook, cambric or 1ongcloth of :. which the garment is made greatly in creasing their decorative value
 If simple fri1ls seem falling into disuse. f 1t is because the art of preparing them properly-stroking the gathers, 1t used to be called-is practically a lost art, yet without this neat stroIzing the frills lose i greatly in value and importance. A small section of frill, gathered and stroked, is shown at illustration III.
 The gathering IS done in the usual manner, with what is called the uneven running-stitch, the stitch on the under side being only half the length of that on the upper, though all the stitches on either side must be alike in length Do not use thread that Is too long; if the 2 gathered edge when finished is to be ! more than three-quarters of yard long, 1t IS better to use two threads and divide the ruffle into halves, marking at each division with co1ored thread; divide and mark the edge to which the ruff1e : is to be applied III the same manner
 After the edge Is gathered, draw the thread out at the 1eft-hand side of the { gathers, drawing the edges up very full; i run in a pin perpendicularly into the ]. 1eft-hand end of the ruff1e and wind the { drawn-out thread around it under the head and the point in the form of the { figure 8. Use coarse needle to stroke, and place 1t in the fold of each stitch, f laying little plait toward the left and {! holding it under the thumb of the left hand. Gathering . Rufne
 Do not scratch the material with the i needle; use it only to stroke each plait E gently into place. After the gathers are stroked. remove the pin at the end andll distribute them evenly over the length E of thread. A ruff1e gathered in this wayi must be attached in manner that will l conceal the raw edge. If only seam al- lowance is provided, lay the right side { of the fril1 against the right side of the | garment to which 1t is to be attached. ! ''A@iA LIN SScAA SoSSS (tOAg OAStC k14S t seam, then lay over the frin narrow i piece of the material to serve as fac 1 ing and include its edge in the same | seam and stitch 1t. Turn the facing l over on the inside of the garment; turn under the edge and hem 1t. This finish ! Is sometimes called false hem.
 At illustration " is shown the method 1 of insetting the fril1 in regulation hem 1 Cut the hem along its lower fold edge, seam the frill to this edge, then turn under the lower edge of the underfoId of the hem and hem it, either by hand or machine, to cover the raw edges of the seam.
 There Is another method of gathering a ruffie that was commonly employed by the expert need1eworkers of our grand mothers day, and that is the rolled and whipped ruffle shown at illustration V. There Is little knack to the rolling, which, however, may be readily acquired, and the stitch IS a regular overcasting- stitch taken at regular distances over the rolled edge.
 The rolling is begun at the right-hand side by rolling over the corner, and once started Is easily continued across, being done by the thumb and finger of the left hand and kept only far enough ahead of the whipping to have the edge properly for each stitch. These gatlaer4' require no stroking, as the drawing up of the thread folds each stitch into it's proper place. There IS no raw edge to be disposed of when a whipped ruff1e is to be attached to garment. The ruf11e is measured, the fu1ness distributed evenly over the desired space, then hold ing the whipped edge Of the ruf1e even with the edge to which 1t is to be ap- piled, a second row of Overland stitches is made through both.