The new era., 1909-08-19

It is a remarkable fact that no one
ever returns from visit to the south
Of Ireland without having something
to say in praise of the country he has
left behind him.
The south of Ireland on Saxon lips,
ney; but, as a matter of fact, there
is hardly an acre of the kingdom of
Kerry, especially of its coast-line. that
Is not exquisitely beautiful. Now that
means of transit are both so rapid
and reasonable. 1t is pity that all
this beauty is not better known. The
best way to make its acquaintance is
to go by rail to Kenmare, and then.
following the coach road round the
coast. lead up to Killarney. If desired.
as final From Kenmare the road runs
close to the sea. though high above
1t, leaving Dromore castle to keep
watch over the blue waters Of Ken
mare bay on the left, until the bridge
is reached beneath which the river
Blackwater Zone of II Blackwaters in
Great Britain and Ireland, by the
way), rushes seaward down fern
clad ravine. Thence the track de-
scends through thickets of wind
gnarled oak and glistening arbutus.
intersected by water-courses, half hid
den beneath luxuriant growth Of the
great Osmunda RECALLS, to Parknasilla.
Parknasilla is an ideal spot for
anyone in search of warmth and sun
So
sheltered from harsh winds by high
mountains, and the breeze that blows
in from the Atlantic brings with 1t a
balmy temperature of the gulf stream.
In this sheltered spot palms and aloes
will winter safely out Of doors. and
the huge growth attained by delicate,
semi-tropical evergreens testifies to
the equableness of the climate. Those
who can afford to travel in the leisure
ly manner such surroundings demand
should loiter day or two at Parkna-
silla at the Great Southern hotel.
once a bishops palace, whose beauti-
full wooded grounds stretch to the
waters edge. Close at hand is the
lovely Gararish island, where sandy.
sunny coves form an ideal resting
place for a summer afternoon.
Winding up from Parknasilla
through groves of oak and beech, the
road leads at last into the wilder
beauty of the hills. which rise on the
right hand into the precipitous heights
of Crohan mountain. Once upon a
time this district was populous with
miners and smelters, for the noun
tains are rich in copper; but there are
no signs of human habitation there
now. Another interesting relic of the
past, close by. is Cahirdaniel, the site
of an old Danish fort. eloquent of
stormy times. The sea appears once
more at Derrynane, where a ruined
abbey stands ou on rocky penin-
sula, while the erstwhile home of Dan
iel OConnell, "the Liberator," stands
within a stones throw.
From Derrynane the scenery is a
succession Of mountain passes until
the road descends to Waterville, lying
midway between the sea on one hand
and Currane lake on the other
Waterville affords ideal headquarters
for the fisherman. The Tough is we'll
stocked with brown trout, which give
good sport throughout the season, and
the white trout come up from the sea
annually to spawn. The sea angler
will appreciate the pollack, a fish
which will put up good fight on rod
with light tackle and prove equally
good eating when landed. The archae-
ologist also will find Waterville worth
a prolonged stay. and the prehistoric
remains of Staigue fort. within easy
distance, are reported to be at least
1000 years old. Other points of in.
terest are the cable stations both on
the mainland and Valentia island.
For the remainder OF the journey
the way crosses rocky moorland in
terspersed with bog and heather. until
the railway is regained at Cahirciveen.
The interest in this section of the
road lies chiefly seaward, where be-
yond cliff-bound Ballinskelligs bay lie
the two islets known as the Great and
Little Skelligs. The Great Skellig is
a lighthouse station, and on the sum-
NIT of the rock are some interesting
beehive dwellings reported to be Of
monastie origin. The Little Skellig 10