davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Arizona republican., 1909-04-17
A Perfect Fitting Cuimpe- -Practi- cal Directions for the Making of
 This Ever Useful Article

THE guimpe or under-blouse is so
 firmly fixed as a component part of the costume gown that the best and most practical method of arranging 1t be- comes question of importance. It IS usually made of light, sheer fabric, and If cut by a shirt-waist pattern and all lowed to remain the full length, the ma terial at the waist will form an extra thickness under the over-blouse that may just as well be avoided A shIrt-waist of even the simplest description will al
 ways be more becoming If 1t has one wide or several very narrow tucks at the shoulder-line There may be only three or four of these little tucks, be- ginning at the armhole, or an equivalent amount of material may be gathered into the shoulder seam, but the trifie- of full ness will allow just enough ease across the bust 10 avoid the strained look that perfectly plain waist unless very loose F. fitted, IS certain to have. The guimpe, on the contrary, will be better ii made perfectly plain, for the portion that shows at the centre-front should lie smooth and fat, be the figure either full or slender; the requisite fulness to give ease to the waist will be in the over blouse
 The guimpe is most often shown io chemisette depth only, but everyone who has. tried knows the inconvenience of keeping the small chemisette in posi- ton inside a neck opening to which 1t IS not sewed. It will be much more secure and comfortable if 1t be attached 10 guimpe of lawn that may be held down from the waist The method by which this result may be attained, and at the same time the fulness of material at the waist avoided. is shown in the illuStra- tiOnS. Fit the under-arm seams and the shoulders and neck carefully French seams may be made. but felled seam gives a hatter finish at the shoulder. Hem the lower edge, and If the guimpe IS to be sleeveless, make a very narrow hem around the arm-holes or apply narrow bias facing Hem the lower edge of the guimpe, and sew loops of One-half-inch-wide tape to the edge. Try on the griimpe, and make each tape loop long enough to reach exactly to the natural waist-line Apply one loop at each side of the centre-f front, and one at each side of and quite close to the cen tre-back, It IS impossible to place loop
Arizona republican., 1909-04-17

to fit the lace into place; as no shoulder seams are made in Il, the tapping and joining of the lace may be done wherever 1t will come most conveniently. Baste the front piece m position first. then each of the back portions. Be careful to pre- serve the curve of the shoulder-line, notching the lace, II necessary, to se- cure 1t. Hem the edges of the lace to the guimpe
 Make the shoulder joinings with over hand stitches taken over the thread that forms the outline oi the lace design. fol- lowing it far enough around each figure to make the joining secure. Join the spaces of net that come in between these figures by taking short overland stitches through both lsscrs of net After all these stitches are made. trim the uct away around the lace figures and along the over-handed lines, but not too close to the sewing in either case. Ii any Of the plain joinings in the lace seem too prominent, they may be broken by talk ing small figure from the cuttings of the lace and applying 1t to the net by over handing around the design. Run a thread around the lace None-luaTter of an inch. from the neck edge, 10 hold it to the same size as the fitted lawn guimpe. From the inside trim away the lawn from under the lace, leaving about one quarter of an inch beyond the line of sewing that attaches it to the lawn, turn over the raw edges and hem them down to the lawn.
 The hitting of the collar iS a matter of considerable importance, ard more at tention than usual Is being given to 1t this season. The shaping of the top out line must necessarily vary on different persons, but the incliiStion is to slope it Up as high at the back and sides as Il can be worn The neck of the guirnpe should always be as high as possible at the sides. Ii. in the fitting, 1t IS too high. causing the shoulder to wrinkle. 1t is better to slash the edges than to pare them away A collar that pulls wide at the sides of the neck is uncomfortable and unbecoming This IS particularly true when the neck IS short. Increasing the neck line at the lower edge of the collar increases the apparent size of the neck and Is the reverse of the treatment required in fitting q stout neck.
 The front may need to be cut some what low. but the sides should be kept as high as possible The best way to make a correct neck-line Is by pinning around well-shaped collar that is either cut from stiff material or boned 10 pre- serve the shape. Everyone knows the difficulties of finding a satisfactory and painless collar supporter. BCning that will hold the collar up usually pokes into the neck in most uncomfortable fashion
Arizona republican., 1909-04-17

hard to say the right thing and 10 say II properly" said Rosamond in a despair ing tone
 Think about it yourself first, replied her mother. Tt will help you more m your underwriting if you do that than II 1 should dictate Remember that note of that sort should be your own \ friendly note. a note of appreciation for gift. should be natural. spontaneous. It must not be abrupt, but it need not Uc long. IL may De enthusiastic withou; being gushing Your friend has taken time to think of you. and to chOos- something which she hopes may plcasc you l am sure you are not indifferent. but you have allowed three days to pass without acknowledging her present The simplest rule about writing a friendly note IS to think what you would say if speaking What would you say 10 Alice if you saw her at this moment
 Perhaps I would say. Alice, dear. .t was charming of you to send Tle that pretty fan IL is just what ] have been wishing for am delighted with it-
 That is very natural and will do very we'll Write it. You may add some thing of this sort. I hope that may see you soon, wher l can tell you personally how much pleasure you have given me. and sign it Yours afeciioaateiy
Arizona republican., 1909-04-17

used this season 'the guimpe must have sufficient length to extend a safe dis tance below them and 1t may be advis- able to add an extra loop of tape at each side, The guimpe illustrated was made of lIiins4aSsst, and was intended as a supportg for she lace which is inset in chemisctte forin-none of the lawn show ing ensthc~over-blouse is worn. The gaimpe pitselfs however, may be inset with mcdallions or insertion or be hand embroidered. Fine lawn or batiste
 should be used in this case, but the orig iral preparation oi the guimpe would be the same The trimmings to be applied
 should he pinned into the desired posi- tions, then pasted in place. After the trimming is pinned in place on the one
 side, double the guimpc evenly through the ccntre-front, bringing the back and the underarm seams evenly together,
Arizona republican., 1909-04-17
THE LATEST GUIMPE

run a length of tape through all the loops and tie it around the waist
 The guimpe is usually cut long enough to extend few inches below the bust, and continue, on a corresponding line on the figure. across the sides and back, but even if it be cut shorter, the loops will hold it down. The greater length is. of course, preferable when sleeves are included, though ir any case it will be more satisfactory to have the guimpe ex- tend at least two inches below the un- der-arm When the over-blouse has the large arm-holes that have been so much
Arizona republican., 1909-04-17
STEAMED FRUIT PUDrIxi

Sit together one and three-qu2Tter cupfuls of four. half level teaspoonful each of soda and cirnanon. and fourth of teaspoonful each of clores and nut meg: add one and half cupfuls fruit r1isins. entrants and citrbn mixed-aud mix thoroughly. Melt a fourth of a cup ful of butter in lIalf a ctipful of hot no lasses. add half a cupiul of milk. and stir gradually into the -four mixture Turn into well-buttered haii-pound cocoa or baking powder cans. and steam about an hour and half. Serve with hard sauce
 Dates or figs chopped fine make an agree able change in place of the fruits given
Arizona republican., 1909-04-17

Nohair seems as certain standby as broadcloth. and though the preference this spring is for q single solidcolor cloth. IT one of the staple or newer shajc5. certain diversity Is gained by variations m the weaving, as m the checked effect woven into the mOhairs and serCcs with herring-bone stripes. Noiles in plain black and black and white are likely to find increasing favor, and some of these are shown III bordered goods. These are thc double-width ma ;crial with a woven border on one edge. Considerable dressmaking skill is neces- sary in producing gown from bOrdered material: for that reason they will prob ably never be universally popular.
 Tho Spring and Sumner Materials
 On these fine. transparent voiles the selvage is often employed as decorative feature: a tunic drapery, for instance, instead of being hemmcd, will be finished with the selvage. left on for that pur- pose. It is a part of the dressmakcr's art to study her material. that she may make the most of all its possibilities. Even If the time has not yet come to wear cotton fabrics the forehanded woman IS think ing of them. and this summer she will see the return of an old favorite-ootton sateen. influenced probably by the success
Arizona republican., 1909-04-17

at the exact centre on account of the closing, but they should be placed as near the centre as possible without in terference with the tapping, so tllat-the two loops may pull as one. Place loop at each under-arm seam and two more at each side oi the guimpe, one between the front and the under arm, and the other between the under-arm and the back, making five loops on each side. Sew them securely to the hemmcd edge of the guimpe, and when it is to be yorn
Arizona republican., 1909-04-17
. p OSAMOND, dear" said Mrs.
 IN Wright. ''I have something for you

to do thiS morning.
 What is il. Mother;'
 "I want you to be my secretary and at tend to some of my notes and invita- tions.'
 Rosamond seated herself at her mother writing-desk. saying, "I like to sit down at your desk. Mother. It is so well supplied with writing materials note-paper. pens, ink, plotting paper, stamps-cveTythirg ready to use. IL makes me feel like writing
 "I want you to begin to-day to keep my desl; in order, and to study the de tails of note writing. wl:ich is an art that should be practised by every woman who wishes to be polite
 tIt seems to be a talent to write notes well" said Rosamond with sigh '-I am afraid I shall never be able to do it. '
 Yes, 1t IS an accomplishment. A very small talent can be improved by girirg time and thought to it Every- one may not find Ii easy to acquire q charming or graceful style in note-writ- irg. but you will find that facility comes ny practice
 What sort of note-paper do you like best?" asked RoSamond.
 Plain white. rather heavy in quality. is always in good taste Pale gray i7 used by many people The size is about six and half inches by i've You will find larger size in my desk for letters, and a smaller size. about five inches by four. and a half. for short notes or inyi- tatiors Notc-paper is folded once to iit the envelope. like t0 have the ad- ,1--ecz a-,cr--, t-aI orr,-s tf,a tn, of .i,. note-paper. but 1t is allowable to write
Arizona republican., 1909-04-17

and pin the trimming, in the same posi- tions, to the other side
 Al the second illustration is shown the method of insetting a solid piece of lace, avoiding a seam at the shoulder All-over lace may be used, though in this case it was an odd piece of ten-inch deep lace flouncing, the edges being joined at the shoulders by tapping the back DOT ton over the front. and appliqueing the lace design on the latter to the net top of the lace used for the front portion. It is an easy matter. after the guirnpe Is fitted and ;he shouider-seams completed,
Arizona republican., 1909-04-17

even when it does not actually scratch. A prepared collar foundation that have seen. and which has recently been placed on sale in the shops. seems to have solved the problem by boning with a single length of collarbone that is carried up and down and along the shaped collar that is made of mouSseline de soie. There are no ends of the collarbone ex- cept at each side of the back. and here the ends are turned under three-eighths of an inch. SO no sharp points can pro ject. The cOllarbone is stitched by ma chine to the mousSeline collar When one of these prepared foundations is used it is fitted 10 the neck of the giiimpe, then covered with lace matching that of the chemiSette.
Arizona republican., 1909-04-17
ENTIRE WHEAT Pupp-Xa

Sit together two cupfuls of entire wheat four level tcaspooIful each O' soda and cinnamon and half q level tea spoonful Of cloves: add a cupful O; chopped apples and cupful of raisins, citron and nuts. mixed Heat half Cup
 ful of molaSses. add a third oi a cupiul of butter and. when melted. a cupful of milk. then stir gradually into the first mixture Mold and steam. Serve with hard or lemon sauce. This very excel lent pudding, and most palatable one. requires no eggs which is desirable ad- vantage when eggs are scarce and hi-h-
Arizona republican., 1909-04-17

dyed to match any shade This dyci2g is not difficult. and may be done at houir The extremely fashionable sleeves are long. even extending well over the hand. but ii seems likely that. for midsummer lt least. comfort will make the three quarter or elbow length popular
 Long Coats in Lightweight Gowns
 Long coats-4o and i5-inch lengths and in the semi-htting models. are being shown for spring, and will probably hold their favor through the summer. es- pecially in linens. pongecs and similar Lightweight materials. Sleeves on these coats are Of the long. close-atting kind and have very little fulness at the arm hole Small notched collars. similar to those on mems coats, and the collarlcss finish. will both be used. the latter es- pecially with the ruches of almost every imaginable material now represented among neck accessories.
 In woOlens there are the transparent fabrics in one class-the voiles and tis- sues that must be draped over a suitable lining; and the heavier goods. which are usually made with lining in the waist portion only. In these heavier fabrics, though they are Of the lightest possible weight, the smooth satin finish is best liked for more dressy wear BroadclOth
Arizona republican., 1909-04-17
Tho Spring and Sumner Materials
When and What to Write
 By Mrs. FRANK LEARNED

an address at the top. towar' the right, if it is not engraved. Remember that a letter is dated at the beginning on the right-hand side; a note IS dated at the end on the left-hand side Very i'm portant elementary things in underwriting are hand writing. spelling, punctuation, correct beginnings and tcrminations. Be careful always to write leglbly and straight If you arc in doubt about the spelling of a word, consult a dictionary. Do not abbreviatc." What are obligatory notes:" asked Rosamond.
 As rule. they are replies to anything where a hostess requests the pleasure of vour company. or you feel sure that she will wish to know whether she may eX- pect yOu. For instance. here is an invi- tation | lave just received to formal l:nchcon. It is obligatory to reply. Write the reply in the same form as the invitation. in the third person.
 Mrs. Wright accepts with pleasure
 Mrs. Robinsons invitation to lunch
 con On Tuesday. March third, at
 half-past ore o'clock.
 You sec that the date and hour must De repeated in the answer. in order to avoid mistakes or misunderstanding
 After Rosamond had written the re- ply. Mrs Wright said. 'l intend to give a luncheon for my friend. Mrs. Howe. It will be a pleasant way for me to meet some old friends and make new ones. lave consulted with her about the date. and she tells ne Il Is convenient for her. shall send informal Invitations anl must write them myself l shall say:
 "DE,R Mas. ROBINSON:
 Will you give me the pleasure of
 your company at luncheon on
 Thursday. March the fifth. at half
 past one o'clock: l am asking
 some friends to meet Mrs Howard
 Howe. who has returned recently
 to town 10 live. after long absence,
 and l hope you can come.
 ess Yours sincerely.
 CONSTANCE WRIGHT" Tn little while Rosamond said. heSi- tatingly. Il want 10 write to Alice to thank her for the birthday present she sent me"
 Have you forgotten to do so'" asked Mrs. Wright in surprise. You must not delay another moment.
 No, I had not forgotten, but it is so
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-25

CALIFORNIA land. 81 per acre cash payment
balance purchase 9oc per month per acre; close
San Francisco; no taxes, interest; acre
tracts; level. rich, clear, ready to plow, fri
gated: perpetual water right; immediate pos
session; particulars, maps. photographs free
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-25
NEW BLOCK, NEW BLOCK.
Point Lobos Heights,
10th av. between A and B SITS.
RICHMOND DISTRICT


NEW BLOCK. NEW BLOCK.
Point Lobos Heights.
10th av. between A and SITS.
RICHMOND DISTRICT
One block from the Clement ST. carline.
Every lot has an unobstructed MARINE VIEW
Streets are macadamzed; cement sidewalk
laid. Every house must stand back u feet.
THIS Is one of the most ideal BUILDING
SITES In the city. Entire block Is graded to
OFFICIAL LINE. Building restrictions as
sure uniformity, beauty and increase in value.
If you are looking for a future home here Is
your chance.
If you are looking for lot TO BUILD on NOW
this property is READY for you.
IL you have only a small amount OF money at
your disposal, yet would like to own your
home COME AND SEE US.
We will build an artistic home for you as eco
nomically as il can be built. We will fur
nish plans and specifications. You may pay
for it on the INSTALIMENT PLAN with the
lowest bank interest.
IL You prefer to have your own BUILDER we
shall help you by advancing you money for
building purposes at per cent.
??-WHERE CAN YOU BEAT TT?
We have lots throughout SUNSET and RICH
MOND district for your selection.
CALL at our branch office, Fl st. and 18th
suit your convenience, or branch office. cor PIT
Lobos and 40th avs open Sundays only; or
Beach office, cor. Fulton ST. and 49th av
opposite life saving station; open Sundays
only, and let show you this property. You
will enjoy it much the park or beach
LIPMAN K HIRSCHLER. 253 Montgomery ST
Phone Douglas 3644
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-25
BuIldlne Contrart.

Mrs B. Hamann with william G. Fahien--
Alterations and additions to make two story
frame stores and fat building ar 2z27 Clement
street for s.. $50.
Jeremiah McSweeney with ~ Bruech--TO
erect a cue aud half story frame building in
NE line Of Palmer street. p Sc OF Harper.
Sc so. NE 100. W 6f.4. SW s.. for s.. I'D
The Pacific Union club with Richard Keatings
& Son et slS.-Io erect a building IN lot
bounded BY Sacramento Mason, Californla and
eastman place fa< S3S5. 4lA
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-25
CLAIRvoYANTs


HENRY MANSFIELD, Egyptian Astral Seer
crystal dead trance medium palmist. astrologer
the most wonderful and powerful clairvoyant in
America: 90 years experience gives the emo
tions talents and valuable details from the
palm; love marriage. business and all matters
without you speaking word or asking questions
Journeys divorce; who is true or Salse .
whom when you marry; the only palmist in the
riage and business affairs tells full Names dates
facts secrets, important information; reunites
those separated, brings back lost lover, husband
wife or friend restores true love, develops secret
power of fascination; magnetic mental control
whereby you win success in love or business
gain good luck and prosper in everything you dc: +:
sees what sickness you have and who can cure
you removes evil influences; breaks weak habits
cures all nervous diseases. lost vitality; tells you
and desires. Call today. 1902 Fillmore ST.. cor
ner of Eddy; readings by mail 81.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-25

HAVE YOU USED YOUR HOMESTEAD RIGHTf
If not call and see u.s. We have something TO
offer that will appeal to you We deal in tim
Der lands, mining lands, city and country real
estate We have some bargains on our books
you want bargain you viii find it here. Call
29S MONADNoCK BUILDING, SAN FRAN
CISCO.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-25
HOTELS and APARrMENTs TO LEASE
COMMERCIAL HOTEL TO LEASE

viii build al once on Grant av near sutter
St a beautiful story freproof hotel that VIII
contain $50 bedrooms, drummer sample rooms.
large lobby on street floor that viii have 45
feet street frontage: swell cafe. saloon and
barber shop. There will be 80 per cent private
tub and shower baths: the viii be large
and sunny as the hotel will have three street
frontages every known modern convenience
will be installed the owner desiring 10 make
II one OF the finest in San Francisco. This hotel
being the only first class house in the retail
district an experienced hotelman should make
fortune out of IL. VIII give good lease
with reasonable rental 70 responsible parties
See plans and elevations the office of
DAVIDSON & LEIGH. 1877 Montgomery ST.
Exclusive Agents
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-25


BUSINESS PERSONALS
A-WIGS and T0UPEES that defy detection; ven
tilated; perspiratien doesn't affect them: wig
making a life study; mems private wig depart
ment. 2271 Cal. ST. Webster, Mr.. G.
Lederer in charge. LADIES' HAIR GOODS
Transformations, switches pufs. artistic wig
making. shampoong. g. LEDERER. 1909 FILE
more st. near Sutter. Established 1866
WANTED Every businessman to know we print
letter heads for $3.50 per LOCO; envelopes,
SO. 80 per LOCO; statements. 81 per 600:
cards, 50 per 900; send for samples. VALLEY
PTG. CO., 1850 S. San Joaquin St, Stockton
Cal.
YOUR fat reduced lbs per treatment; new meth
cd; no drugs pain; thin people filed out to
normal conditions; bust development speciality;
all ailments OF the body cured; satisfaction
guar; trained nurse In atten; mineral
vapor baths 1913 Fillmore; ph. West s25S.
AAA-LEssoNs in hair dressing and manicur
ing given; trade taught thoroughly from TO
q: most reliable and reasonable 1850 Fill
more ST. near Sutter-
ALLEN RUG WORKS. successors to George Mat
thew-Artistic hand loom weayers; fun rugs
made from old carpets; send for circulars 939
Buena Vista ay.. Alameda. Cal.
HOT salt water baths, electric baths, massage.
gymnasium for scientific exercising. Rooms
30S-30sA Union Square building, $50 Post ST.
PROFESSOR LERWICk-
MRS L. E. HARTMAN. manipulation. vibra ton
and electricity for rheumatism and nervousness
$50 Whitney building LIB Geary 81.
LADY cures all ailments OF feet. corns. bunons
etc. without pain; eastern method. 1910
McAllister ct. near Fillmore.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-25

NOTICE is hereby given that my wife, Hattie
B. Williamson, is living separate and apart
from me at $40 Sanchez ST.. San Francisco.
against my consent, and will not pay or be
her. W. z. WILLIAMSON, third husband.
Dated November II 1909
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-25

KERN COUNTY LANDS
All on time
We have few scattering so and 160 acre
tracts in the great artesian belt in Kern
county that we have decided to sell on years
time to reliable parties who will agree TO
improve. The land is suitable for vines, figs.
olives. eucalyptus, cereals. vegetables, dairy
ing, hogs. and especially adapted TO poultry
raising prices right. Interest per cent.
Other particulars application.
PLANTERS LAND CO.,
206 Metropolis Bank bldg.
ALFALFA AND FRUIT LAND.
ATWATER- DISTRICT.
MERGED RIVER IRRIGATION
WATER RENTAL 81 PER ACRE
We have a choice subdivision at Livingston.
Merced county; part Of townsite the tract;
property close to station and market; good roads;
soil deep, sandy loan; will raise alfalfa. fruit,
grapes or vegetables; irrigation canals on
the tract; prices $50 to S100 per acre; easy
terms; send for literature.
COOPERATIVE LAND AND TRUST CO.,
246 Russ building, San Francisco,
or Merced, Cal.