The Washington herald., 1909-01-15

It has introduced sidewalks, abolished
mosquitoes. populerized rubber tires, and
built electric railways. II has also taught
the people how to insult the umpire who
falsely and nlsliciousIy decides that the
man on the home team is out at third
Measured BY such things as these, Ha-
vsna has become very much American
ized during the ten years OF American &C.
cupanCy and influence.
But It retains its Spanish character
sad its Cuban peculiarities. Its people
resent any innovation which materially
affects the course OF their municipal or
social nfe The net result Of ten years
OF contact Of the Yankee and the Cuban
is that the city has become sufficiently
Americanized 10 be pleasantly habitable
for Americans, the while retaining its
peculiar historic charm In other words,
Havana is more beautiful 10 the eye and
ear than il ever was. and it is no longer
offensive 70 the nose
It is TO the Americans that Havana IS
indebted for the beauty Of its streets and
parks The parks. the statues. and the
streets were there long before the Ameri-
cans came, but they were not beautiful
because they were not taken care Of
One Of the most beautiful city thorough
fares in the world is the PradO. It is an
enduring monument TO the memory Of
Gen. Leonard Wood. the second Ameri-
can governor OF Cuba He found great
wide street, running through the heart
OF the city. and bordered by handsome
houses. II was fat and UnCared for. and
in the center was a strip of neglected
grass and a few trees. Gen. Wood paved
the street, raised its center to a crown.
set curbiRg along the strip OF grass,
trimmed the laurels and f1amboyant pOin-
ciana trees. laid walks through the green
in short, he made q boulevard out Of
country dirt road
The Prado begins az the sea Before
the Americans came there was no i'm
provement Of the long stretch Of coral
short line outside the mouth OF the har-
Dor Il was dumping place for the refuse
OF the city. and the sewage dumped
into the sea was carried back and cast
on the shore By the tides. II was foul
and utterly ugly place. Gen Wood sbOl
ishcd the dumping system, and built
great sea-wall along the crescent shore
line. Behind It a park was constructed,
bauG-stalds were erected and everything
made spick and span Thus Havana came
into possession OF its most beautiful fea-
ture. the famous Malecon-
Here at the NaIecon The band plays in
the evening. and the spray from ire
ocean dashes over the seawan 10 wet
the Laughing thTOng. At one side there
are cafes. where one may sit comfortably
al an outdoor table. slipping a glass Of
rum and water. or enjoying a cup Of
chocolate He IS protected from ugly
sights and smells by the things the Amer
leans have done Upon his ears falls the
gay laughter OF q pleasure-IOving people
"A careless. happy people 20 whom the
night and music is the whole OF Ife.
II took the Yankee to make the Malecon-
but the Latins enjoy it as the Americans
never could.
Havana IS a delight to the visitor. be
cause for the first few days il enthralls
him with It's physical charms. reserving
the more potent spell Of its spirit until
later. Richer in hoary history than any
other city Of the Western world. it has
none OF the deafness Of the relic Here
the fun power Of Spain was first assert
ed. The forts built nearly 400 years ago
bring one within speaking distance OF
Columbus himself. Here the cruelty and
barbarity, which vas civilization in the
Middle Ages, survived for a century after
Il had been stamped out in all the rest
Of the Christian world.
Its wonderful old forts are now open
20 the parrOung guides and their retinues
Of curious tourists. Ancient fortifica-
tions these. and horrible. with their dun
Eeons and torture chambers execution
walls. and charnel houses Yet Il has
been bat a little more than ten years
since any person in Havana might be
cast into one Of those dungeons any day
without hope OF ever again communicat-
ing with his family or his friends Only
ten years ago men were being shot every
morning in the gTuesome Laurel Ditch.
Only ten years ago the cruelty Of the
Dark Ages were ruling here.
Now the old forts and prisons are but
relics for sightseers. This Is another Of
the things Americans have done FOR Ha-
vana- II one doesn't care 10 poke about
old forts and guide-infested churches.
he may find some pleasure in discovering
for himself things that bring out the
charm Of Havana's age. at the corner Of
a busy street. set into the wall Of a
grocery store and painted over so many.
many times that the deep inscription is
almost obliterated, is a tablet commemo-
rating in formal Latin the tragedy Of
the death Of Donna Maria de Cepero. the
daughter OF a governor general Of Cuba.
who was accidentally shot and killed by
q pail from an arQuebus which was sa-
luting her father That happened in the
year 1557, fun half-century before
jamestown was founded Even then Ha-
vana was city Of stone and marble.
II has been said that a woman has
never known the fun measure Of the Joy
OF shopping until she has made the
rounds in ObisDo and O'Reily streets in
Havana Narrow little lanes they are.
the cabs going down one and up the other
because II would be impossible for them
20 pass Canvas signs stretch overhead
10 keep the sun out so that even al mid
day the shopping center is cool and shady
as a grape aTbOr. Here are the Cuban
ladies', Seeding and bargaining with
their favorite clerks Shopping must
not be done in a hurry; the Cuban lady
takes her time She waits until the par
ticulsr salesman she desires 10 see is at
leisure She Is deliberate in selection
and critical in inspection.
Then comes the great business OF
making terms The clerk asks a certain
sum, knowing that she viii not give il.
She protests and pretends fine anger. BY
and by the clerk names the final, rock
bottom price. She recognizes il instantly
and pays IL The American woman in
bargaining viii get the same reductions, /
but she wiz not be able TO recognize the
peculiar accent which indicates that the
price IS final And il one asks for a
after that psychological moment I
the merchant is insUlted and puts up