Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-01-27
In Far off FIJI
Observations by HI. c. Millard
Written Especially for This Paper

Sydney, Australia, Nov 17.--Leyaka,
on the island of Oralau, is one of the
Fiji group. This was the European cap
ital of Fiji until 1882. and is a popu-
lous and busy town today. Early on
the morning of our arrival we diseov-
cred a steamer following and rapidly
overhauling u.s. Before it changed its
course to go to Suya, got near enough
so it was easy 10 see she was a large
mail boat belonging to the same COM
pany, running between Vancouver
and Sydney. Before We go on shore
at Levuka the mist, which has so Tar
shut off most of the view, rises and
We are permitted to look upon a pic
ture of the most vivid heauty-a
small, lofty island, pinnacled with jag
ged rock and yelled in velvety green.
At its foot, and nestled among the
rugged spires above are numberless
white and vermillion houses, looking
down from the tall masts and funnel
of the ship, from their green eyries,
like so many brilliant birds.
The people on the wharf are unlike
anything we have yet seen; for we
are out of Polynesia now, and the
Papuan blood begins to show How
savage these F1jians looki The hair
stiff, erect and spreading in huge
mass above the dark facea; the feat
ures fiat and negroid; the skin all
shades from deep copper to actual
and wild eVertheless, these ''hor.
rible savages' are and have been for
many years perfectly safe to be among.
Fifty years ago Fiji certainly was the
most cannibal country in the world
Now there is not the smallest shadow
of risk for the traveller, alone or ac-
companied. in any part of Fiji All
go ashore and inspect the town.
Queer Houses.
The first thing that attracts my at
tention is the native houses. They are
entirely enclosed, have no windows,
but usually three small doors, one on
either side and in one end. As a result
the interior is gloomy. The walls are
made of split bamboo, beautifully
laced with cement. Every inch almost
of the roof and walls is tied with ce-
ment. There are no nails used, the
whole edifice being closely laced and
knotted together with admirable skill.
The whole family sleep on huge
dais, extending from wall to wall, at
he 49, ~ ah nj Ia
of mats is laid The Fijian houses
may be as good as those of the Ton
gans, but neither of them can compare
with those of Samoa.
The next morning it was raining
and the wind was very strong, with a
heavy sea rolling outside. We were all
dreading the 56-mile passage to Suva,
but when we got CARLY out and
away from the island, the
conditions were not so bad and
we arrived without being sick. Suva is
on the great island of Yite Lew.
which is over 100 miles long: is the
capital of Fiji, and big for the most
important town in the whole of the
South Pacific A writer accurately
sums up the situation thus: QUAINT
ness, prettine S, and a comic-opera
atmosphere; these form the keynote of
Tonga. Samoa is lovely. plaintiye and
sweet. Fiji is, at the first glance and
forever afterwards. splendid and sinis-
ter We had no trouble at all in
getting things through the customs,
and quickly secured quarters at the
VIII house, a popular boarding house
on high part of the town, command
Ing a fine view of the harbor. The first
10 days was stormy and the weather
cool even for this place. Coming
from Samoa where it is so much
warmer all the time. felt the change
and had to substitute the light shirt
| was wearing for a thin wooden one.
However, after that during the rest of
the month it was warm enough.
A River Trip.
There is not much in the way of
scenery in the vicinity of this part to
interest one. and as my money appro-
priated for the whole trip was run
ming short, | did not get into the in
terror where there is much to interest
the traveller, especially in the native
villages located in the mountains.
However. l maneged a trip up the
Rewa river as far as Nausori, and in
spected the second largest sugar mill
of the Colonial Sugar company. The
Rewa is fine. large river. navigable
so miles from the mouth There is no
thing picturesque about it, but it is in
tere~ting as the center Of the sugar in
dustry of Fiji. 1t is reached by small
steamers that keep inside the reef
while passing clear round the PENN
sula from Suva to the broad mouth of
It and other rivers. Soon after leaving
the coast we passed through very
narrow, crooked delta into the Rewa
proper From here up it is over a mile
wide and it's surface is dotted with
many craft. The country is perfectly
fat, but the many miles of sugarcane.
wildly green under the tropic sun: OF
the fleets of large steel lighters. some
heavily laden with sugar. floating
down the river. Others loading cane
along the bank or being towed up to
mill; of the natives at many placer
drawing their nets, or spearing fish
all this is strangely interesting We
stop at many mall landings to let off
passengers and leave mail and small
package freight. At one place is the
large station of The yTaSIavau mis-