Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-09-07


Va York have given us a glimpse
-- of the models which will be |
fu Yigaer throughout the fall. The re-
serve which they have manifested more
strongly than ever this year has been
really only gallery play. Every year, of
course, marks changes in the style out
line, but as you may see by the photo
graphs which | have selected for your
examination, the changes this year in
dictate even more forcibly than the sum
tner models fact which have so long
endeavored to impress On you, that the
absolute sway of the dressmaker is at
an end. The best dressed women of the
world are not the serfs of their millin
ers and tailors but make these obey
their own tastes To-day individuality
counts for more in fashionable dressing
than any other factor.
That the style outline changes neces-
sarily from time to time is true, but
conformation with such changes does
not imply servility to the modiste. 1t is
but natural that we should seek variety
in our clothing: change is the law of
life in higher matters than clothes. On
these basic changes, however, the best
dressed women build the structure of
their own taste. The truth of this is
shown really by our illustrations. The
extremes, the oddities, the bizarre
qualities of many of the spring styles
have absolutely vanished. Lines are
simple and plain. Adcrnment is where
it should be, in ornamentation: no
chief attraction In other words, the
woman of sense need no longer fatty
refuse to conform to the milliner's regu-
lations: those gentry met with such
signal failure in their attempt to impose
freak styles, that they have returned
to standard models.
The gowns | am showing are selec-
lions from Paris. l shall describe them
in the order of their presentation.
Two Fabrics in Combination the Fad
Linens with foulard silk have been
used through the summer, and now
appear fall models showing cloth and
satin in reverse conlbination-that is the
cloth used as a trimming on satin.
This coat and frock costume shows the
new overskirt drapery, tunic of satin
trimmed with cloth folds falling over a
cloth skirt The satin coat has the ex-
aggerated pocket flaps of the moment,
and these flaps as we'll as collar and
cuffs are banded with cloth. The cos
tune is expressed in the new black
brown which is fashionable in Paris
just now
A French Topcoat for Autumn Travelling
The topcoat is fad in Paris just now,
and throughout the fall and winter
these smart, well-cut coats will be worn
over morning trotabout frocks, and for
travelling and short motor runs. This
coat of nelange in novelty weave has
a peculiar yet attractive cut. The large
jet buttons set in metal rims are notice
ably new.
velveteen Returns to Favor
porarily leaving velveteens on the shelf
many of the new fall costumes for
dressy wear show velveteens in combin-
alton with other fabrics less heavy.
This graceful frock by Drecoll is of
wolfe ninon in a deep wine color shade,
and the heavy founce of velveteen adds
dignity as we'll as richness to the cos
tune.
A New Fall Suit and Eat
Ali the new coats are extremely long
coming well below the knee, and the
normal waistline is defined. A print
zess suit of dark gray serge is shown
here, the coat and skirt having the
extreme trig, tailor finish that marks
all the smart printzess models. A pretty
hat of gray velvet shirred over big
frame, and trimmed with punches Of
rosebuds and violets, accompanies the
suit.
Redfern Adherss to Moyenne Styles
Monsieur Redfern has been true to
his first love, the Meyen-age costume
/, which he originated for the play which
made this style of costume famous. The
long, slender lines of the Moyenne
mode are expressed in this frock Of
catawba nohair, in the lustrous perme-
finished weave. The embroidery on the
panels matches the catawba shade of the
fabric.
Dressing for Winter on Dollars-and Sense
Perhaps it is cause for thankfulness
that the panic times are over, or it may
be that the manufacturer has realized
that the woman who is dressing on her
sense should be considered, as well as
i - --------------