Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-09-19
and Fashions
By Florence Fairbanks

suitable or elegant than the big white plaited jabot of sheer null or batiste edged with Irish lace. The high draped collars made of muslin or lace, with a piping of black at the top, are also well suited to the tailored street gown. Cream and white are always bceom- ing next to the face, but to be real smart everything much be touched with black Some of the handsomest jabots are attached to high collars made of folds of soft null, The fluffy ones arc prettiest if made of white wash blonde edged with frills of real Valeneiennes lace The typical French jabot is quite long, reaching, in many cases, to the waist line.
 If the low cut coats buttoniug be. low the waist line retain their popular ity, the waistcoat will play an impor- tant role in autumn wear. In the long coats there is an effort to throw one side across the front and fasten with few \buttons low on the other sIde. If the waistcoat be not worn the space at the neck between the revers can be filled with dainty iabot, but for the cool autumn days the waistcoat will be decidedly preferable.
 The possible success of the style of 1880 has already made difference in the fascinating wares at the trimming counter. Even now one may find charm ing little eurlyeue things made of satin rattail braid in black and eolors or rosettes of tafreta with pinked edges that look sometimes like big carna. ton. These two are the salient fea. lures of the 1880 gown. They are used to decorate the full skirt and they also play their part upon the pointed bodice or upon the elbow sleeves.
 The style is primarily a fancy one, with many frills and furbelows, many gathers and shirrings and many deeora- tions made of the material, Usually these last match the dress, in fact the 1880 costume was one-toned affair, save for the dainty fold of white illu. sion which softened the line on the low cut neck. The trimmings have come in advance of the styles, but they will remain to grace whatever gowns gain a foothold if the frivolous little dresses of 1880 fail to win out.
 The possibilities of the chiffon and mousseline scarf have never been great CT, for, as they appear with almost every costume, one may obtain an in- finite number of effects by the exercise of merely ordinary ingenuity. A single scarf may be made to do duty at once for a veil and hat trimming while driv- ing, walking or motoring, and the same ALLEGES EXTREME CRUELTY AN scarf may again appear in the after noon as swathing sash, or even as one of the new Henry III mantles. In the evening the scarf may again form part of the costume, either as a shold CT throw or as a mantilla.
 Everywhere one sees pale yellow in gowns. wraps and hats. Prophets preach yellow season. Of all the shades on the shop shelves the most fashionable just now is orange. This new shade exactly matches the color of the fruit. It is alluring in panne velvet for the military cape, which is. gaining in favor every day, ad is fetch ingly used on huge white straw hats, nodded after the graceful, simple lines of tn scecond empire. It also comes in Things to be used under spotted and figured net gowns and for pettieoats to be worn under smart frocks or coats of white serge or homespun.
 Chiffon broadcloth, serges of all kinds, with fine or loosely woven mesh, and rough homespuns are safe goods for fall costumes Zibeline cloths will be much used this fall.