davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29
TALKS ON DRESSMAKING
A Simple and Sure Method of Adapting a Waist
Pattern
Pattern

are normal, or nearly so, follow ii care
fully.
1t is useless for amateur or profess
sional to try to improve upon it, for it
can't be done. But if the bust measure
is perhaps 40 inches, and the waist 90
and | have really had such measures
submitted to nle-you can make such
changes on a 42-inch pattern that you
need have no more trouble.
q Lining Pattern
Most waist patterns run to 40, and
some to ~ inches, bust measure. and a
plain-ftted French lining pattern with
no over-drapery) may be bought as
large as 80 inches bust ! strongly ad-
wise getting one Of these patterns, IL
yonr o5gH bust size, if possible, and,
using il as { guide. make new pattern
altered 10 your other measures. Once this
lining pattern is made to fit YOU cor
rectly, you have a model for all future
occasions. A waist lining IS not cut in
50 many pieces, for II does not extend
over the hips, where practically the
greatest number of fitting seams are re-
quired. A front portion with a dart
G back and either one or two side-forms,
are all that are required in the lining OF
a draped waist
The points Of enlargement viii be the
same in the lining with fewer pieces,
as in the French lining. with greater
number Of seams; only on the latter q
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29
FALL TRAVELLING COSTUME

smartness that is very desirable. I he
outer edge OF the ring is caught to the
under edge OF the button. This setting
gives a finish that looks very compli-
Gated.
If you wish something very chic, make
a button Of white satin. paint Dres-
den flower in the center. and mount it
in a ring of gold cord tins cord in
silver or gold sells three yards for ten
cents, and it may be combined most
effectively in the making Of applique
bands These bands are used on many
OF the expensive dresses. as narrow
vests and panels, or to outline the square
neck or Jumper OF dresses that are worn
over a thin yoke or blouse They are
made Of chiffon or net foundation, and
show elaborate combination Of cmbroid-
cry, silver or gold threads and souiache
braids. To buy them one must have
dollars; to make them, only little
sense.
oh" you say, "it's all very well to
tell such things TO an expert needle
woman. but what OF the girl who can't
embroidcr7 What of herr" OF one
thing you may be assured, and that is,
that she is of my own kin. For her
the latch-string hangs always on the
outside of the Little Shop in Arcadia,
where these Dollars-and Sense ideas are
originated and put to practical test
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29
OUR CHILDREN

10. 5...-ca 20 Children
Writer'S and lecturers are constantly
,rgiua the duty Of parents being com
panions TO heir children II is undoubt
.dlv desirable that they should be, but
with our modern life in apartments and
'latg, ] sometimes question whether the
tile ones are not thrown too much with
heir parents. and a danger does not
threaten on too close companionship
With elders A child needs a certain
amount Of freedom and relaxation from
fort and the constant association of
older people is apt 10 be too stimulating
Particularly IS this the case when The
omvaniouship is on the mothers rather
han on the child's level
Mothers, let us be children with our
children. rather than make them old be-
yond their years in the knowledge and
Ways Of the world Childhood az best is
4 short duration. and we should so bring
ap our children that in after years they
may say with St. Paul. when ! was
child, | thought as a child and spakc
IS a child" Let them leave 10 manhood
the putting away OF childish things.
Teaching q Child Moral Responsibility
Among many experiences bearing upon
the relation Of parents, school and child
the wise and judiciOus action Of father
toward a wilful and capricious daughter
seems most worthy 10 be told.
The little girl vas twelve years old
when she enrolled herself as a member
Of a School Garden. OF which ! was
Supervisor. In this particular garden
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29

L" VERY now and then I receive a
- letter from some reader who gives
me her measurements (Which
- are greater than those of the
largest patterns) and asks how she can
get pattern by which she can make
her own dresses. Usually these meas
urements, besides being greater in
inches, are in very different proportions
from those of a pattern. Each set of
measurements that | receive in this way
would require a special cut-to-measure
pattern, as no two even with same bust
measure, have waist and other measures
TO correspond.
Now, it is no part of the business Of
the seller OF patterns to tell his clients
how to prepare their own, but | feel
that want it TO be my business, as SYM
pathizing adviser with the home-dress-
maker land the professional. too, if she
wants my help, 20 explain away the
difficulties and poiG. out the ways that
arc sinple-when you know them.
Mysteries Of DressmaKlag
Dressmaking. to ! woman who knows
absolutely nothing about it. seems such
q dreadful and mysterious undertaking
that I am filed Nth admiration Of the
courage and pluck Of some OF my cor
respondents, whose questions prove their
lack OF knowledge A good pattern is
2 weil-planned aud accurately-cut model
Tor your use. and when your proportions
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29

portioned lining and outside drapery,
with the seams in the right places and
running at a proper slant. will make a
figure look entirely different from one
with careless cutting which is called "a
TT" simply because the figure fills it
smoothly 91d there arc no wrinkles.
Adapting the Shoulder Seams
IL you will look at any pattern you
will notice an extension above the shout
der seam on the front sections. Whca
the lust size Is larger than that Of
The pattern, Judgment will tell you that
increased room IS required on both the
length and breadth. Note also that it
is necessary to extend the neck-linc cor
respondingly. that the NJ at this point
shall be snug and properly close.
This is not a lesson in drafting: il
is just d careful and experienced dress
makers way Of adding inches where she
knows they are needed ! call your at
tcrtion here 10 an extension a. the TN
Gcrarm seam, principally because ! want
70 show how when s-On do this, you
;--cst also extend on the lower part Of
the armholc. Increase on the length Of
the shoaidcr-inc win rarely be ncccs-
sary, as that line lengthens in almost
imperceptible proportion 70 the rest Of
the figure For the same reason, though
the lower part Of the French dart seam
may need an increase, it Will not likely
be ecessaTy IN the upper part
Large Waist Measure
When the waist measure is very large
in proportion to the bust, there will
probably Le Ino-e increase 1t the front
lhan the back, and most Of this must
probably bc allowed al the dart and
center-iron II the abdominal develop
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29

ment is corrcspondingiy full, the new
cutting lines will run toward each other
again at the lower part OF the dart,
instead Of being practically straight from
the waiet-iine 10 the lower edge. Irans1
fer TO the edges OF these new cutting!
lines all the notches in the patterns
edges. IN tic same relative positions.
The underarm gore IS increased about
the same quantity AZ each edge, bCt 1t
the top the line must be extended, that
il may join the extension q tic aim
hole edge OF the front.
Arranging the Back
Though an oycr-lJae .to.l.er-linc il
un5ccoming to q stout lg@cc, the Width
across the back should be sufficient to
avoid any drawn look Measure a drcss
that fits comfortably across, and II thi
pattern need increasing. divide the
quantity. making little at the cc1ter-
back, q haic On cr~h edge Of the French
back seam (starting the increase just
below the llouldcr) and a little al the
armholc edge Allow an extension at
the top Of each OF the two side forms.
Considcring these directions has
brought to my mind the principal argu-
ment in favor Of the pattern with
seam allowance, if it needs an argument.
Whatever disposition on the cloth you
make Of the pieces Of such pattern,
whether to ht in as closely 10 each other
Is possible for economy in cutting. -
separate in order to allow a little extre
seam in a material that ravels. or -
permit necessary increases at any figure
point-yoM scam is Arrays safe. You
do not need 70 consider it and allow
for it. OF perhaps forget it and ruin III.
FOODS.
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29

The College otrl's Dressing

Fer the college girl home for the
holidays, = sCraentjac crepe Of pale pink
or blue the tmicrblousc Of net and the
waist done with a spray Of ribbon
roses, may be made fot less than FIVE
dollars-a small sum to invest tor the
plea Grc it will give
A recent letter from Paris told me
OF the very charming dancing fr3cks
that are fashioned Of hand-pautcd
tissue and moussclinc They are pasted
in spIashy conventional designs. aad arc
Of course most expensive. but the same
effect may be obtained by the see Of
sheer white or palc-tinte1 organdtc
Don't sew up the sem n yo3r skirt
ill the design has been painted in
To so a. badow work, which is ,ery
simple, more effective, aud far prefer
able for thin or soft materials than
Stenciling, sketch your design on heavy
paper, and haste it und the organiie.
VA! the flowers in with water cob rs.
and outline them with Irregular splasl es
Of black. working just as you would o.
paper. II you cannot draw your o~H
design, and are tel miles from de-
signer, you may find design on a scra?
Of wallpaper or crctonnc Trace this
on a piece Of organdie, and haste it
over neavy paper BastnE the model
70 the material IS preferable to pnning
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29

smaller addition on each seam will pro-
duce the desired increase. ] he ideal
method is to cut the French lining, fit
or have it fitted carefully (you can do
it yourself if you take tis1c to it,, then
put it on bust form and pad 1t where
needed 10 make It firm and strong and
according to your own shape
Value of Bust Form
Bust forms are of several kinds.
here is the extension form. that every
one who can possibly afford it will have.
Failing this. much lighter and more
cheapy made form OF papier-iuache is
sold in the large department stores Of
every city. These are not adjustable.
but are sold in the different bust sizes.
Ny mother had a favorite proverb
with which to meet my youthful excuses
the needle was bent. the scissors not
sharp A poor workman always
blames his tools o. kindred belief
must be T. courageous ana determined
friend who has written me that. finding
il impossible for the time being to get
a bust form, she took fiat stick, nailed
across It as shoulder support another
shorter stick. then wound and rewouud
about them straw and hay until the i'm
provised form approached the shape and
size Then she pinned the lining over
it and completed the padding with hand
fuls where needed
Others have pinned the lining around
a pillow. or even two, though it is not
so easy to get good shape in this way
Because ihe lining is alicd snuyly a
well-shaped figure does not naturally re
suit, and that is a lesson that stout wom-
en- and the makers az their dresses
should take to heart A properly pro-
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29
What Is Required
Accessories

BY accessories ] mean vest, buttons,
or whatever trimming YOU may select.
For small girl make blue serge
coat Line it with cretonne, being care
fui to choose stripe. or a shadowy de-
sign Make the cuffs and revers OF
green velvet, Dresden silk showing
blue ground, or better still, if you have
a collar and cuff set of white linen, done
in the eyelet work, that was so much
used last winter, use that. Not, Of
course, as it is now, but after you have
transformed it into an expensive nov
city. Edging the scallops is a band of
solid green cretonne, caught with French
knots of black. The eyelets are made
solid by basting pieces of cadet-blue
linen beneath them; they are held in
place with knots of green, and in the
center of each is a knot of burnt orange.
The cost of such coat will be:
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29

the woman with dollars but certain it is
that there are more good looking ma
terials offered at Inexpensive prices than
ever before And the dictators of fash
ion, too, must have had her in mind,
for many OF the prevailing styles show
dresses of plain materials with wide plaid
or striped bands at the loot Of the skirt
offering to the ingenious endless op-
portuuities for the combining OF short
lengths; and so the girl with limited
allowance may go forth joytully to d.
her winter shopping. being assured that
there are many good things awaiting
her.
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29
Making Buttons

The making Of fancy buttons and ap-
plique is as simple as the results are
satisfactory. The buttons may be Of
tonne, or OF braid wound loosely and
caught to foundation, which covers
mold. They may be mounted in a ring,
buttonholed in silk or silkotine, black,
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29
: 7 ARIS HINTS
IA Beautiful waist

"a Beautiful Waist
My waist shows design done in
velvet flowers, the exact shade of the
dress. The stems were made by cut
ting the inch-wiic ribbon in half. and
covering small cotton cord with it.
In using the wide ribbon it is not neces-
Sary to double the ribbon. Cut il the
desired length of the petals, allowing
Tor seam At one end double across
and stitch at one end, turn on the right
.jc, point the stitched end and gather
.ae other end on a round OF cotton cloth.
which serves rs q foundation for the
center OF French knots that are done
ter flower has been baSted on the
goods
he wais, also shows a satisfactory
way ot altering waist too tight to look
well, and yet without tucks or fullness
10 let cut. Z ~as cut down the front,
and vest OF narrow lace edge inserted.
The Use Of Net
Many OF the expensive dresses show
an extensive use OF net. and many of
the fancy imported waists are OF net,
simply tucNSd, with long sleeves, Tor
morning wear, aad trimmed with lace
ard embroidery for more drcssy
/ gegSs .o2S One of these Simple little
morning blouscs, | have seen belongs TO
a member of The Court of Dollars.
he sleeves and front are hand-tucked;
The only trimming is a jabot of the net
that reaches from the collar to the belt
| live it came from a certain shop in
PariS. where its wearcr thinks she finds
wonderful tareains--it is a simple little
blouse, and 1t cost the simple little price
OF $500
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29
A Mourning Trimming

a most effective mourning trimming
is a combination Of nctsilk cord and flow
ers of dull ribbon 10 make Il, basic the
net over tisaue-papcr on which the de-
sign is drawn The cord is whipped on.
and the flowers are held in place with
the French knot ccntcrs They are Of
No ? ribbon which is cut into ~
inch lengths Each petal is formed by
doubling the ribbon, lacking the sides
of ono end hack TO make point, and
gathering the other end into the center
A pcry small silk cord is like the
proyerblal needle in the haystack but
you can pull Town the haystack and find
it, simply b. Twisting a medium
sized cord | did this with a cord that
sells for four cents a yard and | not
only got what wished, but at a cost
OF about one and one-third cents yard
The flowers may be Of wider ribbon, or
of crepe For colorc dresses, satin or
velvet ribbon Of the same or a contrast
ing color may be used.
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29
CLOTH AND NELNETEEN
For the Little Girl

For the littlest girl, a coat that IS
both serviccable and dressy may be made
OF feece-lincd piqut Buttons and bands,
if sparingly used Of white cretonne,
showing a small lowered design will
give a Partisan air Such coat may
be made for less than two dollars
II uards 81 rinlle ~ ~ cenls 4
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29
Desirable Materials

Desirable Materials
Broadcloth, OF course, makes the hand
soonest street dress one may have but
the durable serge and cheviot and the
new cheyron stripes are in great demand
for tailor suits. Many conservative
women invariably choose their winter
suit OF black, adding a touch of color
with hat or blouse to do away with a
mourning effect
1t is inconspicuous, and therefore may
be worn for more than a season without
noticeable comment. It is as suitable
for church as it is for shopping, and
the addition OF light gloves and fancy
hat makes it appropriate for even rather
ccrenlonious occasions. BIT if black is
not desired dark blue or brown is equal
ly as serviceable
A dark blue serge could be made most
effective if 4 vest of black satin, and
BIKE covered buttons set in black, be
used. The seams should be finished with
a black satin piping, and as they are
straight, satin ribbon mounted on
cotton cord. instead of the more ex-
pensive bias satin, may be used.
Suggestion for a Brown Dress
A brown dress with buttons ana pip
ing, showing a touch of burnt orange,
would be most satisfactory Many of
the new models show thess narrow satin
pipings, and lavish use of fancy but
tons of loosely cord or satin.
They may be copied for less than one
fifth the price asked in the stores
A black dress could have buttons of
black silk cord, and an adjustable vest
CT rather two vests-one of silk showing
touch of gold braid, and one for
everyday wear of green denim or white
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29
velveteen Returns to Favor

The French dressmakers after tenn
oorarily leaving velvete ms on the shelf
have taken them up with gusto, and
many of the new fall costumes for
dressy wear show velveteens in conbin-
alton with other fabrics less heavy.
This graceful frock by Drecon is Of
voile ninon in deep wine color shade,
and the heavy flounce Of velveteen adds
dignity as well as richness to the cos
tune.
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29

This net may be used with telling ef-
feet in all manner of ways A house
dress of serpcntine crepe, with the
paying investment for the winters out
hl for the dlhutautc, or 10 the trousseau
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29
Two Fabrics in Combination tile Fad
a French Topcoat for Autumn Travelling

The topcoat is fad in Paris just now,
and throughout the fall and winter
these smart, well-cut coats will be worn
over morning trotabout frocks, and for
travelling and short motor runs. This
coat of melange in novelty weave has
a peculiar yet attractive cut. The large
jet buttons set in metal rims are notice
ably new.
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29
A Ns,r FAN Suit and Hat

All the new coats are extremely long,
coming well below the knee, and the
normal waistline.is defined. A print
cess suit of dark gray serge IS shown
here, the coat and skirt having the
extreme trig, tailor finish tina. mark
all'fhe smart printzess models. A pr Y
hat of gray velvet shirred over a b.g
frame, and trimmed with punches of
rosebuds and violets, accompanies the
suit
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29

Dressing for Winter on Dollars-snd Sense
Perhaps it is cause for thankfulness
that the panic times are over, or it may
be that the manufacturer has realized
that the woman who is dressing on her
sense should be considered. as well as
Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-09-29
Redeem Adherss to Moyenne styles

Monsieur Redfern has been true to
his first love, the Meyen-age costume
which he originated for the play which
made this. style of costume famous. The
long, slender lines of the Moyenne
mode are expressed in this frock OF
catawba mohais, in the lustrous perme-
finished weave The embroidery on the
panels matches the catawba shade of the
fabric
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1909-03-09
The Farmer. Cow

If there Is to be any such thing as
middle ground as between the milking
breeds and beef breeds Of cattle In the
realization OF the type of COW suited
TO the general farmers needs, 1t would
seem that the milking type OF Short
horn would furnish the material for
rounding out this type, to be known as
the farmers COW, says the St Louis
Weekly Star.
Twist matters as we may, the all
beef and no-surrender COW does not re-
spond to the needs OF the average
farmer any more satisfactorily than
does the COW bred and trained for milk
and milk only. And this circumstance
is at the bottom OF the interest In
Sho1fhorn circles Of to-day. and II
wculd seem that this unrest will not
down to stay until there is developed
within the Shorthorn breed strain OF
cattle characterized by high milking
qualities. The fact is this sort OF thing
is to-day under contemplation by the
American Shorfhorn Breeders Asso-
citation, as indicated by the classified
fion in prize lists. The idea is thus to
offer the incentive, and to accept II as
a logical conclusion that Shorthorn
breeders will line themselves ND accord
ingly.
While II is true the Shorthorn breed
will show up larger per cent OF cows
that are good mixers than may be
found in other breeds. It will also be
foprd true thss the one way Of making
advancement in the line indicated must
be through actual and systematic ex-
ercise OK the milking function under
direction Of skilled hands. Special mat
ings 10 this end are all right In their
way. but this particular line OF effort
will have more weight as the under
taking progresses IN years Just now
stress is to he put upon the selection
OF cows Of the proper type and tenn
peransent. and showing a tendency to
heavy milk production. That is the
hrst step. The next step IS 10 adopt
a feeding ration that viii produce a
flow Of milk rather than 60 to the pro-
duction OF beef. II the Shorthorn
breed is ever TO produce distinct
strain OF milking cows worthy OF the
name It must come about through the
adopfion Of methods as outlined above.
It Is not a matter to be accomplished
through the simple process OF mating
or breeding, as the term Is generally
accepted in breeders parlance-
The eyoIutien Of the farmers COW
may yet result from inc foundation
now being laid in shorthorn circles
looking toward the improvement OF
milking qualities within tbs breed.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1909-03-09
rhe Jnpnnese nIusion.

Engrafted in the heart of every
schoolboy is certain affection for the
Japanese. He has been taught that
an American naval officer was the am
bassador of civilization to nation that
had kept itself shut in hermit solitude
for hundreds of generations. The i'm
pulse to admire what we create and to
love what we may patronize is innate.
And so as 4 nation for more than half
a century we have maintained toward
Japan superior attitude of the dis
coyerer toward the discovered. Mind
f,ll Of early trimming and responsive
to early impression. we have. taken
pride in the progress of Japan. We are
pleased that 1t has become a world
power. Our sympathles went to the
japanese as against Russia, not only
traditional but stanch friend of the
nation.
In fact. around the busy, aggressive.
Ingenious, ambitious and artistic little
brown Jap we have woven veil of
poesy. We have smiled at his national
traits, CLOSED over certain Of his Gus
toms as ingenuously immoral rather
than immoral, conceived for him a pic
turesque setting of delightful tea gar
dens, and generally we regard him as
leading an ideal existence amid purple