davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1909-10-20

All of the under materials repre-
sent the real value of a garment This
is the keynote of the seasons dinner
gowns.
moved from the sham lining of per-
Gale. which was the backbone of
many a rich creation but a few years
ago. The lining has grown in grace
until it has reached a point of mag
Influence that the more practical
among women would hesitate to ac-
knowledge, were it still regarded as
something to be concealed.
The so-called lining of the last rich
creation is, in reality, the garment.
The upper and lower materials are
separable only in so much as they
have been made in different sections;
they hang together in the finished
garment and are to be regarded as an
iridescent whole whose inner radi-
ance shines through transparent wells
"a cloud with a silver lining.
The suggestion is not extravaganza
in consideration of the excessive use
of metal gauze. Cloth of gold and
mesh or silver are the materials that
produce the simmer.
The slip lining" of tOday'S dinner
gown is a magnificent brocade or a
richly embroidered satin with some
"peachblow' surface; it is, again,
hand painted or beaded, but it is al
ways complete and handsome gar
ment in itself and only waiting for
some added elegance of drapery; and
as if this were not enough, the drap
cry itself is frequently doubled to
produce triple illusion.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1909-10-20
The Keynote Of the Evening Gown
BY MADEMOISELLE MISfIT.

If il were only to tell OF extraya-
gance and riches that this mention is
made it were just as well to omit it;
but the manufacture of these gowns
has an interest to the maker Of the
less elaborate evening dress. They hold
the secret of simple construction in
their seeming complications
The evening or dinner dress is, in
It's ordinary form, SO much easier of
accomplishment to the novice than is
the tailor made that she will often
undertake it as an economy, when
the tailor made that she will often
coat suit.
The fashionable, party-going maiden
will, in a burst of economy, attack
the party frock without professional
assistance; and she does it remark
ably we'll. The dressmaker whose
business has threatened to go under
has redeemed herself financially by
the making of the evening gown.
The yokeless, cuffless condition helps
to relieve it of some complications and
the building of it upon an entire slip
lining is an added relief.
Real, practical help for the maker
of the evening gown lies in the pres
ence of good sound material beneath.
Draping occasions no 'gnashing Of
teeth when there are no horrors of
cotton percaline and lining lawn to
hide. Given an already elegant fOun-
dation dress, there will be less demand
for a profusion of drapery, and the
whole surface elegance in the way Of
ornamentation and glitter may be
brought within reasonable limit OF
price.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1909-10-20
Biographical
---CdlendQ1---
October 20.
THOMAS HUGHES.

Today is the eighty-seven ami
versary of the birth of Thomas
Hughes, immortal author of tom
Brown" queens counsel and the life
long friend of America and Amerrca,.-
Hughes was born in Uffin-s con. Eng
land, Oct. 20. 1922, and died at Rrish-
ton on Harch %, 1895.
Thomas Hughes had strong demo-
cratic ideas and carried them with
him all through his years at Rugby
and at Oriel college, Oxford He did
not go in for deep study at Oriel. and
had mild little go as he aclied it,
in youthful excess.
But just before he was 81 he fell in
love with a girl who was the intimate
friend of his sister. and he became
thoroughly serious and in earnest in
his life. The parents on both sides
made them wait till Mr. Hughes Nas
out of college and started in life. In
three years he was ready to be adj
mitted to the bar, and although their
friends thought them most unwise
they were married upon the $4,000 he
could count on with certainty.
In 1848 Thomas Hughes, with some
of his friends who had the same dem
ocratic ideas. started the movement
they called the Christian socialist one,
and edited a small paper in it's inter-
ests. From this small beginning kim
dred societies have sprung up all over
England and are united in their efforts
for the poorer classes
A wOrkingman's college grew out
of this movement and the greatest
men in all branches of literature and
science gave lectures for the men,
Nathaniel Hawthorne when he was
our consul at Liverpool, gave a de-
lightful talk one evening, and for
those few hours was neither shy nor
reserved
When our civil war broke out Thorn
as Hughes felt strongly for the north
ern side in the struggle, and through
his speeches won a seat in parliament
elected by the working class of Lam
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1909-10-20
New Governor Leaves.

WASHINGTON, oct. 20-Col. Geo
Cotton leaves today tC assume his new
duties as governor of Porto Rip. HIS
sister, Miss r1argery Cotton, will ac'
company him and act as hostess at the
governors house, for which position
she is Well-fitted. in spite of her youth
Miss Cotton spent a year with hef
brother in the Philippines. and was
companion with him on the now fah-
Gus trip of the president. then secr'-
tary of war, from San Francisco To
Manila.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1909-10-20
Nelv York Fashion
:::::::::::By Catherine Manu- dyzdnt:::::::::::

r quired. A peculiar shade of grey some
times called "coal dust" was chosen
in wolfe, which was made over a
bronze green silk, which gave a very
pretty effect
The distinctly new features of this
frock was a high belt unshaped and
broad covering, not only the normal
point but coming up we'll to the arm
holes; upon this was a fine pattern of
soutache braiding. For the skirt a six
gored model was used, joined to the
waist in semi princess fashion, one of
the most comfortable styles known.
The inverted plaits at the sidefrOnts
and side back seams provide the width
that is now considered essential to
skirts. The waist mounted on a fitted
lining Is very simply made with just
is cut with a round neck that is filled
enough fulnesS to make it fit well, and
is cut with a round neck that is filled
in with tucked chiffon laid on thin silk.
The full short puffs at the elbows are
extended by an embroidered portion
and wide band below, which is an I'M
der sleeve of the tucked chiffon. The
idea of the upper part of the sleeve
being puffed is a novelty and will
be used often where the leg-O'-mutton
sleeve is tired of over the shoulders
and extending both back and front
are long trimming bands with pointed
ends very handsome coat made Of
Ottoman silk in the same shade of
grey as the gown accompanies the suit.
Bands outline on the coat an Empire
effect and were braided, while braid
ing design outlines the edges of the
coat A short round MORE collar could
be worn, and the same used for the
cuffs A coat of this description in
black broadcloth or in Ottoman would
be most satisfactory garment.
A pretty little theater gown is well
worthy of mention A pretty striped
silk of deep yellow ground having
fine tan and brown stripe in it. Made
in princess STYLE the front and back
panels are extended by a plated por-
lion, and around this plated piece is
band of the material piped with silk
to match the deepest shade of stripe
and braided with a fine soutache. The
upper part of the waist is laid in tucks
around the lace yoke and then out
lined squarely by the piped and braid
bands The long close fitting sleeve
has band that extends from the
shoulder to the wrist which has the eff
feet of length, and the sleeve ends in
a point over the hand.
For a reception gown a nile green
chiffon cloth was used, made in prin-
cess style that was draped on the side
a fashion that promises to be very
fashionable this winter. The mode
calls for a slight fitness about the
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1909-10-20

boxes, after being packed shall mt
show more than one and one-half incl
or less than three-quarters of an Inch
bulge on botn top and bottom inclu-
sive. While the apples must be firm
ly packed so the boxes will be full AMI
the apples secure in their places, the
pack must not be so tight as to bruise
the fruit.
"All apples shall be graded in three
grades, viz: Extra Fancy, Fancy AMI
c Grade For the year 1909 the asso-
citation has secured a stock of fruit
labels costing the growers one cent
each. One of these labels will be re-
quired on one end of each box Ct
Fancy and Extra Fancy apples.
Extra Fancy Grade.
In the Extra Fancy Grade, all az:
pies shall be sound, smooth, free from
worms, worm stings, or diseases Of
any kind, and of the proper shape. ac-
cording to the variety. No apples
smaller than four and one-ha,f 41a)
tier, or two and one-half (21a) inches
in diameter shall be allowed in this
grade; nor any apples that are of red
variety that are not at least three
fourths (A) red. yellow Newtons,
White Winter Pearmains, Grimes Col
den Beethoven, Winter Bananas aad
Red Cheek Pippins will be allowed il
this grade, but no other variety of vel
low apples. Winter Banana and RED
Cheek Pippins must show red check.
I'm the fancy grade also all apples
bruises, blemishes, worms, worm
stings or diseases of any kind, and Of
proper shape according to the variety.
No apples smaller than four and one
half (41a) tier or two and one lalf
(21a) inches in diameter shall bn a.
lowed in this grade, excepting tive
90 tier apples not less than two anG
onefourth (2A) inches in diameter
of the following varieties: Spleen
berg. Winesap, Jonathan, White Win
ter Pearmain, Yellow Newton, Mis- :
souri, Pippin, Fa meuse, Jefferies ami
Grimes Golden. All apples of red
variety ranging in color from thcaa-
fourths ca red down to one-th;rl
O-3) red will be included in this
Grade. All varieties of yellow apples
will also be included.
Apples in C.. Grade.
The G Grade shall be made up of
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1909-10-20

NEW YORK, Oct 2O.-The wide
| vale serges, diagonal sultings and SIM
part in the wardrobe of the up-to date
woman. Street frocks, especially, have
rails and women copying the latest
French patterns for late autumn and
ion has offered nothing smarter nor
more serviceable for their delectation.
built up of wide vale serge in dark
Burgundy, the model consisting of Il
smart trotteur skirt and coat.
The skirt of this costume is devel-
Oped by the new yoke model. The yoke
coming just to the hips at the sides,
then dipping suddenly into a front
ed lower portion is attached to the
yoke at the sides, and a panel at the
waist line. The fastening is at the side
front under an invisible fly.
that is with no center back seam, with
the shoulders rather narrowed by the
| S.i6 hot nd
which form the panel like portions at
the center back and centre front The
| feature of the new coats which adds
to the slender silhouette now so desir-
they should be is something of an art.
| The raw edge OF the armhoe is turned
edge of the fold, the sleeve is then
set in with second of stitching.
The collar is made in the shawl style,
and the sleeves are finished with
turned back cuffs. The color chosen is
one of the most fashionable for this
season and one that is most serviceable
and of which one does tie easily. A
dark felt hat turned up at the side
and decorated with folds of velvet,
which were brought over the side, and
two black quilts at the left placed un-
der the folds were it's only ornamental
ton. Black shoes in suede, black suede
gloves and a dark red umbrella and
black bag complete the costume.
For shopping, business. church or
travelling such a dress is in excellent
taste and will do good service, giving
the hardest kind of wear 1t would also
be a very good sort of costume for
the woman of moderate means as
really best gown with the addition of
a bodice in harmony with the rest of
the suit
For afternoon when Milady has sew
eral informal teas and lectures on
hand, a second gown and coat are re-
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1909-10-20
Crucible Steel Meeting.

PITTSBURG, Pa, Oct. 20.-At the
annual meeting of the Crucible Stee'
company today, some imp'f '''''
changes were made in two sections OIL
it's certificates of Incorporation.
a result, the company may nereai'
buy and sell it's own Stock III
same manner as the United o'a'
Steel Corporation. The change ahe0''
shares to the value Of $50.OoOooo.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1909-10-20
Cruisers to nee. -afi.

WASHINGTON, Oct. 20.-The ar
mored cruiser squadron, made up oL
the North Carolina, the MISSISSIPPI
the New York and Montana. when i
to take part in the celebration at Ne"
Orleans when President TAFT Flsi''
that city, is under orders to renoe%-
yous at Hampton Roads today an ' u
proceed tomorrow to the Crescent
City. remaining there until NoVeil
Der g.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1909-10-20

all merchantable apples not included
in the Extra Fancy or Fancy grades
These apples must be sound and free
from bruises worm stings, worm and
diseases, but will include misshapen
apples or apples having a limb mark
or otherlike defect This grade will
include apples of all colors and as
small as 40 tier or two and one-half
inches in diameter but no smaller.
This grade must not be wrapped.
The following marks made by using
rubber stamps (not lead penciD shall
be placed on top of label on one end
.of each box, viz:
THE growers number shall be
placed in the upper left hand corner;
the grade at the top of the box and
with growers number The tier and
variety in the upper right hand cor
ner on a line with the growers num-
Der and grade and plain figures, either
written or stamped, showing the num-
Der of apples in each box, must be
placed Immediately before, the words
Fancy or Extra Fancy, as follows:
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1909-10-20
Grower 112 Fancy Alter Winesar
No. az
John Doe
Riverside
Fruit Farm
Packer
No. 60

THE packers number shall be
placed in the lower left hand corner
and the growers name and address
or the name and address of mis- farm
in the lower right hand corner. No
other lead pencil marks, or marks OF
writing of any kind shall be allowed
Third grade apples shall be stamp
ed Grade to indicate the grade. Al
growers shall endeavor not to grow
any of these, and to keep them off the
market as much as possible.
"All Fancy and Extra Fancy apples
are sold under the guarantee of the
association and in cases where
through ingnOrance, WillfulneSs or
neglect or any other cause, a grow
er's fruit does not come up to the
standard or to I grade as stamped
upon his boxes he shall be charged
with all loses occurring in conse-
quenCe.'
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1909-10-20

The national purity congress which
met in Burlington, Ia, on October 10,
for a four days convention is easily
the most important gathering of re-
formers. religious and social workers
and philanthropists assembled in the
United States in many months. Prom
inent SociOlOgiSts from all parts of the
country were in attendance. Judge
Ben B. Lindsey of Denver will deliver
New-York tribune., 1909-09-25
ANNA G. JUICE

Director of Glee Club and teacher of music
IN Wadleigh High School for girls. writes
as follows of the Mason & Hamlin piano:
New York.
Mason & Hamlin Company. New York
Gentlemen:
lsdesire to thank you for myself and
tor our Glee Club tor the privilege of using
during the past few months the Mason &
Hanlin Grand Piano sent 90 the Wsdleigh
High School for the use of Mr.. Daniel Greg
ory Mason at his lectures. The piano has
been source of great pleasure TO all in our
school The tone IS so very beautiful and
satisfying and its action so responsive as to
make its use a delight.
AS you know, / have used one of your
Upright Pianos IN my home for nearly
year. / have never before known any piano
so satisfactory IN every way. You deserve
the greatest credit for the high standard al
ways set by you IN your instruments.
hope that their influence may be far reach
ing, for i believe with Goethe that There
is no cultivsting taste by means of what is
second rates nothing short of the best is of
any avail" Sincerely yours,
ANNA G. JUDGE.
New-York tribune., 1909-09-25
MASON 6 HANLEN
PIANO

Mason & Hamlin Co. ''''
Boston. Mass
Gentlemen:
=: have 0ften heard the Mason & Ham
rr ,mi PLANO curing the last few years. both in
private private and m public I take pleasure in
tsihng you that find them rernarkabIs for
tneir full' rich tone and for their sensitivr
ana responsive mechanism. They seer, 80.
me instruments of the highest artistic ~
celenee. Faithfully yours.
HORATIO PARKER
New-York tribune., 1909-09-25
THE MISSES MASTER

Conduct one of the largest and most impor
tant schools for young ladies in the East.
Since writing the following letter they have
purchased five more Mason & Hamlin pianos.
Dobbs Ferry, N. Y.
Mason & HamIn Co.
Dear Sirs:
Some three years ago, when we found
IT necessary TO install a number of pianos in
our school to supersede those which had
been worn out, it was suggested to us bv
musicians whose judgment we relied on 10
try the Mason & Hamlin pianos. During
the first year we rented a number of them.
and the following season purchased fourteen
upright and grand pianos. which have been
IN constant use IN our school ever since
We deem IT pleasure, as we'll as a duty. TO
say that these instruments have performed
their service in highly satisfactory man
ner, and that they have met every require
ment of our music department for the use
of our students, as well as for concert and
recital purposes.
When we tell you that our music DEPART
ment has been during this time in charge of
such eminent authorities as Mr.. Arthur
Whiting and Mr.. Henry Holden Huss YOU
will realize that our standards are most
cXactIng.
Congratulating you, gentlemen. on the
achievements which you have attained in
these truly beautiful pianos, we are,
Yours very truly
L. B. MASTERS.
S. w. MASTERS.
New-York tribune., 1909-09-25
HORATIO PARkER

Director OF Music. Head of the Music De-
partment of Yale College and distiu-
guished composer. writes as follows resard-
ING the
New-York tribune., 1909-09-25
MASON 6 HAMLIN PIANOS

Mason & Hamlin Co.
Dear Sirs:
For some years have observed with
interest the progress and development OF
the Mason Hamlin Pianoforte / believe
you have now brought your pianos to a de-
gree OF excellence unsurpassed by any Euro
pean or American instruments. Their ex-
quiSite quality OF tone and perfectly sym
pathetic action are a delight alike 10 the
virtuoso and TO the creative artist I con-
gratulate you on the splendid results of
your long and untiring devotion TO a real
artistic ideal. Sincerely yours.
GEO. w. CHADWICK.
New-York tribune., 1909-09-25
GEORGE w. CHADWICK

Composer of international fame, and Di
rector of the New England Conservatory of
Music. writes as follows concerning the
New-York tribune., 1909-09-25

Mason & Hamlin Co.,
No. 3l3 Fifth Ave. New York.
Dear Sirs:
IL gives me pleasure 70 testify 10 the
artistic beauty of the tone of your pianos
and to their great durability ! have used
them IN my lecture-recitals as well as II, nv
own home tor the past twelve years. and
altho occasionally subject TO very trv-
ing conditions of transportation and cIi-
matte changes. they have invariably been
satisfactory in every way.
-, your pianos have steadily improved until
they have become. TO nv mind AZ least e.
ideal pianos play Mozart and Wagner on
them with equal satisfaction.
Very truly yours.
THOMAS WHITNEY SURETTE.
New-York tribune., 1909-09-25
FRANK DAMROSCH

FRANK DAMROSCH
Director of the Institute OF Musical Art
of the City of New York Conductor OF the
Oratorio Society. and OF the Musical Art
Society; one of the foremost of living Amer
ican musicians, writes concerning the
MASON 6 HAMLIN PIANOS
New York.
Mason & Hamhn Co
Dear Sirs:
In response to your inquiry. it gives
me great pleasure to tell you that the Mason
& Hsmlin pianos which purchased for the
Institute of Musical Art when it was opened
in October, 1905, because believed them 20
be representative artistic instruments OF the
highest class, have given entire satisfaction,
and our high expectations have been in
every way realized.
FRANK DAMROSCH.
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1909-07-28
Alcohol as a Preservative.

Alcohol is recognized the world
over as the proper most efficient
and wholesome prcscryr of medic
nal compounds and while some
journalists try 20 alarm the world
by the cry that patent medicines
contain more alcohol than beer"
they neglect TO state that propri-
etary medicines are taken In doses
from teaspoonful 20 a tablespoon
ful, while beer is a beverage that
is consumed i'm quantities from a
glass to several quarts a day.
Lydia r. PInkham's Vegetable
Compound contains only IS per cent
alcohol, simply enough TO preserve
the roots and herbs from which It
is made, and may be relied upon by
every woman in the land as a roll.
able, honest and sure remedy for the
ills peculiar to her sex.
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1909-07-28
Voting Getting Lively In
High School Location Contest
SEE HOW THE PEOPLE STAN o-EVERY MAN WOMAN AND
CHILD SHOULD EXPRESS AN oPlNIoN-How The VOTE
STANDS.

The vote in the high school loca-
tion contest shows a change in ne
last few days. Location No ! coming
TO the front See the standing below
and cast your vote today.
The Ardmoreite is going 10 give
every man, woman and child in the
city am opportunity 20 say where
they would like to have the new
100000 high school located. Read
the following and cast your vote
for one Of the locations named. Let
everybody vote:
Information
Location No. I is az the extreme
north end of the First w-rd and is
now occupied by the ruins of old
Hargrovc College.
Location No. is in the First
ward, three and oLchaf blocks
from the intersections of Main and
Washington streets which is the
point where the four wards OF the
city meet. That is, Main and Wash
ing,on streets crossing the city al
The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1909-07-28
ONCE WHITE HOUSE MISTRESS.

Death Of MrG. Elizabeth Taylor Dan.
bridge, Daughter Of Pres. Taylor.
Winchester. Va, July 27.-Eliza-
beth cambridge. 50 years old, the
daughter of President Zachary Taylor,
died here sunday after a brier Inrc,s.
Mrs Dandridgc was the third
daughter OF Gen, Zachary Taylor.
twelfth Prcsidcn' Of the United States
and was born at Fort Smelling. MINI.
April 20, 1924. Death was due to
heart disease following a long period
of illness. She was buried here
Tuesday.
Mrs. Dandrilgc at the age OF 10
years was married to Major Wrman.
W S. Bliss. member OF her fathers
staff I'm the Mexican War, and VINO
later became mis- private secretary.
After her fathers Inauguration Mrs.
Bliss, or Miss Betty" as sne was
popularity called, became mistress OF
the White House. 1t was said OF
ncr that she did the honors OF the
establishment with tHe artIessncss Of
a rustic belle and the grace OF q