The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1909-11-21
DRAPING The FIGURE
MOdistes Are Describing Old
Measuring Methods.
PATTERNS A WASTE OF TINE

Cloth TO the Customers BOdy-Eye
and Hand of Artist as SerNiceabIe
az Form ModeIs-Sheath Gown Much
More Easily Made by This Method.
What a queer way to start dress.
calculated the little cousin from the coun-
try who had accompanied her wealthy
relative TO the latter's almost daily mt
ting" at a fashionable dressmaker's, says
the Boston Herald. II was her first
glimpse into the mysteries and intricacies
Of the building Of "a gown, and her as
constituent and enthusiasm were frank
and umbounded What a queer way TO
start a dress she calculated again as
madam lifted up one end Of yards on
yards of uncut cambria and with it APP
preached the wealthy relative. who was
standing in a receptive "trying-on' atti-
tude before the long mirror.
GO slowly. madam smiled the wealthy
relative. $50 my cousin can see the proc
ess. ! don't believe my cousin has ever
seen a gown started this way before"
Madam held up the cambria under her
customers chin and pinning the end OF
the selvage edge there. she turned her
head toward the country cousin.
How IS il that mademoiselle has
seen the gowns started?' she smilingly
queried.
"Oh with patterns or measurements. or
something" replied the visitor. Some
thing to go by, you know. I should think
you'd have 20 take measures and get
something to work with before YOU start
fitting Don't you use any kind OF a pat
term
Uses No Patterns.
Madam made answer: Patterns? / use
patterns? No. / do not make gowns for
dummies They who make gowns FOR tall
and short stout and thin. that are really
coverings merely and not gowns. use pat
terms and their customers go clothed in
bags. 1ney who take measures waste
much time 90 no purpose. for vhy take
down figures and draft and chart upon
a piece OF cloth when il IS so much more
natural 90 go straight 10 the figure from
which the measurements are taken and
upon that figure build the perfect pattern
perfect because there Is no possibility
OF mishtting
Now watch me and you shall see how
an artist works-not a dummy clothier.
There s madam your cousin, whose hE-
ure-aud a beautiful figure IL IS, mad
cmoisClle-is 10 DE duplicated I'm this liH-
ing For no two figures are alike. lines
differ curves differ. and the ilning-the
second body. as it wcTe-must fit 20 her
figure even as docs the skin beneath.
The body of the gown must ht and that
is art. Now see how the artist works
She pinned the straight cambria edge
down the front 90 Che waist line. then
shipped across "A short way. Up around
the neck then She shipped and pinned the
fabric out on the shoulder on "a line Tor
the shoulder seam Again were the scis-
sors picked up and swiftly. with unerrlng
aim, they cut their way from waist line
20 center shoulder seam. passing over the
bust Section after section was deity
pinned. until behold, ,5a wealthy cousin
appeared in half garment of wrinkleless
surface
Now tho back" murmured madam
with the same uuwaveriug smile. And in
the same sure manner The middle 81 the
customers back was located and treated
10 its application OF Selvage edge. PIN
ming and shipping again repeated them
.
per body was sheathed.
My, It's wonderful" said the cousin
from the country. And you DO It 50
quickly"
IT'S art" replied she Of the smile. mod
estly. Il do il. You can't have the
knowledge, the skill Now let me see
whether 1 have your middles. madam.
Rarely Makes Mistake.
With this somewhat alarming state
ment She picked mp a tape measure and
passed IL about the cambric-covered hair
Of the customers waist and then about
the other half The two measurements
Tailed as did the ones about the neck
and bust. thus showing that she had the
-middles" accurately placed 81 rarely
make a mistake" she said. IT Is the
sure eye AMI hand.
NOW for the skirt" she continued.
holding mp another cambria edge and To-
eating another middle" from waist TO
floor This skirt form. mademoiselie.
viii but reproduce the figure of madam.
your cousin. The curve of the hipS-her
hips. mind you. and not of any figure
which las the same measurements-will
Doe exactly copied i'm this plain. tight cam
F brlc case
This Is not skirt pattern II is mere
ly madam's form on which can be built a
good skirt q circular skirt. a draped
skirt. a plated skirt, skirt Of any sort
fancy might dictate"
As she talked she carried the straight
material about with rapid dexterity. PIN
ming IN place. cutting away, pinuing on
/ extra sections. taking up darts, until the
wealthy cousin stood half arrayed I'm
camhric from throat to feet
Now let us see the 'middles. muir
INJURED madam again. and again the eye
and hand Of am artist was found 10 have
done their work well and accurately.
1T is the perfect fitting body" said she
as she wrote the name Of the customer
upon the front waist section Madam
may now go 10 Italy or 10 Egypt and !
can continue 10 send her perfect ftting
I dresses as though she were here to try
them on day after day I have many
customers who live IN California who
never have q fitting more than once a
year, and then I make them a new body
/ which lasts the twelve months"
ENgUTnNC