New-York tribune., 1909-06-01
DRESS REFORUERS PROUD
German Homen Say Present Styles
Emb0dy Their Ideas.

The idea Of fashion is not popularity assocla'eu
with Germany. The bad dressing OF the "eII''"
woman IS in fact. proverhiaL But the ''S1'e''t
taste Of the country in the matter of r''liehl mas
AT last been yndicated for the ideas OF the d'llah
dress reform movenIo Mt started about hIteel' 'd'
ago ar. embodied To- great extent II the Pie'ei
sty,s The long lines. the dropping hatS' ''e
weight distributed between hips and shoulders t'e
l,ictlrcsqueness and simplicity which were greeted
with contempt and contunelv when they made their
appearance among German progressive women are
now the dernier Of fashion. a Verltable reNo'u-
ton In dress has taken place since the cary marty
donGed their unfashonahe clothing. ana now they
are reaping their reward.
The German movement part Of the great
awakening of the German woman winch though
later than similar movements in other countries
overlook them and even outstrpped some. ! ne
German when she began to throw on
shackles wanted to throw them all of. and wanted
physical as well : moral and political freedom
The movement for freedom in dress eliminated III
the organization Of a veTein, or union. The Onioh
for Rational Dress and Individual and Artistic
Clothing for Women The long and conpTe-
hensive title adopted. Ire Organization aimed to
cultivate disregard for the criticism OF the sterner
sex, eliminate the corset and t. throw of heavy
clothing OF all kinds. substituting for light cotton
porous material. which is said to give more warmth
than the weightier stuff. High heeled shoes and
GainsbOrough hats fell under the ban. and the
ideals OF beauty worked oGt in gowns Of soft,
+ clnging material made in lines hat followed the
human form divine with flowing sleeves and low
cut neck, giving free play 30 the movement and de
velopment Of the muscles and organs of the throat
II the hope of The union IL establish peTma-
nent demand for home manufactured goods. the
motto German goods for German women.
Elaborate and beautifully fitted ate'iers were
opened by artists Of first rank who did not esteem
II derogatory their calling take up the design
ing OF exclusive artistic models for their patron
ssses. Several Of the manufacturer brought our
materials especially for the purpose Of ma king thes"
garments in small quantities. as the moyemen.
Vet only tentative. using in many INSTANCE.
special dyes and fabrics Exclusive trimmings were
made. and artists in modern ieweiry were engaged
10 make special designs for the brooches buckles
and other ornaments. The bootmaker discovered
that porous footwear the only hygienc article.
and thus created market for his goods The
milner placed a high value her specially made.
lightweight artistic hats.
In ordering her gowns madame sound herself in
much the same position she would have been IN
had she ordered her portrait painted. She was
studied by The artist; not only figure. style and
appearance but temperament and character as well
must be thoroughly understood before the supreme
task Of creating the perfect individual garment"
could he undertaken Each dress was the result
cf inspiration.
When at last she turned out. madame might
have stood for the model Of any one of the figures
the fashion papers OF to-day with the exception
perhaps, her hair. which was i~z-aria br.-
drawn down I'm waves 70 a loose knot at the
back Of her neck. The patrons Of this individual
style We're, as has been said. progressive women.
the iutelecusls artists musicians and writer's the
wives Of professional men and adhe-euts OF the
radical party, which includes the snnr7:,ists They
could NOT an afford patrorizc the artist drc-s-
maker ana in tho concert halls the galleries of the
opera house and tho cheaper seats Of tho theatre
especially when classical PLAYS We're being gi~,n.
soulful student girls pored *b4 scores and
textbooks c"rsetlees crea atoms often made 7,.
their hands and than often most IN
lovely Although Some practical models were OK
hihted, business women were not enthusiastic over
the new style and saleswomen. with the exception
Of those VIII" served gracefully IN exclusive salons
ar haughtily IN special departments which a few
Of the emporiums fitted up for tho exhibition Of
models and designs. were net permitted wear
them
bunny Rabbit frocks. called reform or natural