davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03
Attractive furnishings for the B0ud0ir

I NNIIMERABLE sofa pillows of vari-
Gus sizes and shapes go far toward
making a college girls room attrac-
tive, as they may not only be piled
upon couches and window seats but tied
to chair seats and backs.
Denim, nuns cloth, domestic, Rus
sian and antique English crashes make
the most serviceable pillow tops. and
any Of them may readily be stamped
with patterns for outlining or embroid-
cry. Many Of the crash pillow tops
come already stained in two shades
OF brown. green. blue or red, or IN
combinations Of those colors. frequently
stamped IN attractive designs to be
worked with harmonizing mercerized
floss or IN rope embroidery.
Disk patterns are the favorite OF
the moment. The circles are from a
nickel TO SO cent piece dimensions.
usually worked in da1sling stitch in
one or two colors. or in iridescent ef-
feet. the same tints being repeated in
the cushion bordering.
Cotton novelty fabrics. such a. are
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03

Hangers for ordinary street coats are
cotton padded and covered smoothly
with black satin, while those intended
to support riding Jackets. have hunters
pink tops and those for motor coats
have coverings of clan plaid taffetas.
Boudoir coat hangers are thickly
wadded and covered with liberty satin
shirred at both upper and lower edges
to form narrow frill. At each top end
are placed rosettes of baby ribbon.
from which depend two narrow stream
ers finished with wide ribbon bow tas-
sells. The hook is similarly covered
and its stem is trimmed with baby
ribbon fringe.
Padded evening cloak hangers are
almost straight bars covered with
deeply plated soft satin and trimmed
at the sides with box plated half
inch ribbon frill. At each end are rib
bon loop rosettes from which depend
streamers. terminating with flowers.
The matching wood hanger is of baby
coat size, covered with wadding and
twisted wide ribbon. Attached to the
under side of its shoulder bar is an
oblong soft cushion covered with a
shirred satin case having frilled ends
faced deeply with a contrasting shade
OF satin and inclosing a cluster of rib
bon flower petals, from which extend
short streamers, finished with flower
rosettes.
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03
Boxes for Picture Cards

With the present craze for picture
postals and the large number of them
that most girls collect, it has become
an important question how to keep
them in convenient way for showing
them. OF course, the ordinary way is
the postal card album, and when one
wants to keep a special record of a
pleasant trip this is perhaps the best
way. But the albums are rather bulky,
and sometimes one wants to keep
postals that have been sent by travel
with one another.
pact way to take care of these is to
deep enough for the postals to stand
can be used. but the best are divided
into compartments so that part of the
cards can be taken out without having
the others fall over. In these divided
boxes the cards can also be arranged
according to some system, which will
make 1t easy to take out just the
ones ths are wanted.
In this way e very large number of
postafs can be kept in small space
and the owner can enjoy them herself
and also let her friends share the
pleasure. And the box itself may be a
most charming ornament for the table.
for there are many kinds Of beautiful
boxes made, carved or inlafd wood,
brass silver or carved ivory ones
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03
Some Novel Favors

= OR the girl who is expecting to at
tend any of the college football
games a very pretty favor to wear
is satin ribbon flower in the color of
her favorite college. These little
flowers are not difficult to make, and
they are very dainty and effective.
The little flower is made of rather
thin satin ribbon. The materials needed
are half yard of ribbon one inch wide
(whatever color is wanted), seven
inches of very narrow ribbon in dark
green, a thread of yellow embroidery
silk and thread of green embroidery
silk
The ribbon is gathered across. from
selvage to selvage. at intervals of one
inch and half the gather string
being drawn up as tight as possible
and fastened firmly. Make eleven of
these gatherings, one being at the end.
Then take the gathering at the end
and fasten it to the third to form a
loop, which makes one petal of the
flower. Fasten each alternate gather
ing around a center, making five petals.
with the gathers between as the outer
point of the petal.
The three inches of ribbon that is left
makes the stem of the flower and also
a little sachet bag. Turn it UP in the
middle, sewing the edges OF the ribbon
together, fill the bag with cotton and
sachet powder and fasten the end to
the back of the flower. Finish the
center OF the flower with yellow French
knots and a few green ones. The whole
thing IL finished by tying the narrow
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03
~ ~ HN4AsEE
GRAND
MOTHER

OF which you are heartily ashamed
Scales make mistakes about the
weight but the. mirror never does.
When you are getting too fat the mir
ror will promptly announce the fact,
just as it will frankly state that you
are losing flesh and becoming haggard
for lack of exercise, from overstudy or
from indigestion.
"The girl who wishes to cultivate or
to retain a clearly defined chin should
daily scrutinize her face in a three
sided mirror. An overplump jaw lends
a coarse expression to the facial outline
and adds several years to the apparent
age-a condition which will be dis
tinct disadvantage to debutante
whose face Is not backed by an inde-
pendent fortune. The same friendly
threefold looking glass will also notify
a girl that she is acquiring the sharp
facial outline which is popularity sup
posed to accompany sarcastic tongue.
Make point of scanning your figure
in a full length mirror whenever you
are prepared to go out of doors and
take heed when it assures you that
your hat brim is too broad, your hair
roughened or your skirt uneven"
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03

used for children's frocks. make attrac-
tive looking as well as practical tops
for pillows likely to receive hard serv-
i've. Among these materials are the
cheviots and percales, printed in dots
Of various sizes and IN figures and
stripes Of dark. light and medium tones,
as well as in Roman bars, blocks, dia-
mond and disk patterns. For plain
colored cushion tops the satin fn-
ished mercerized poplins in all the
fashionable shades are excellent.
jacquard woven cottons and silks
make up into the daintiest OF delicately
tinted pillow tops. to be embroidered,
outlined or initiated with silk floss. The
Japourka silks, which initiate nuns
yelling, rough pongee. tussahs, miroir
stripes and marcelline effects most
cleverly, are similarly treated, while
the two toned checks and striped
Egyptian tissues and japanese silks are
in themselves so ornamental that they
do not require further decora ton.
Startling color liberties may safely
be taken with silk pillow tops. Even
alternate stripes OF yellow and pink
may be used IL Egyptiaa embroidery os
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03

green ribbon in a bowknot around the
stem underneath the petals, with the
loops standing UP against the little
sachet.
Favors are of infinite variety. For
girls 1uncheons there are all sorts OF
attractive bonbon boxes. including
brown silk witch hats stuck through
with brooms and paper mache dogs
of every fashionable breed-the squat
dachshund. the aggressive Boston bull,
the trim, aristocratic little papillon. the
shaggy Scotch terrier, the languid
Pomeranian and the alert looking
pointer.
Satin slippers are fitted with inside
bags to hold bonbons, bridal bells when
lifted disclose candy filed boxes, minia-
ture bridal coaches have ribbon hinged
doors which swing back to reveal
comfits, and dolls in full bridal attire
stand on the lids OF boxes decorated
in imitation of wedding cake.
Crepe paper ropings are employed to
cover all sizes and shapes OF bonbon
favor boxes. One box looks like a
wicker basket filled with vegetables.
and another representing a jardiniere
decorated with poinsettia. honeysuckis
sprays. tiny azaleas poppies. button
chrysanthemums, cherry blossoms nat-
ural smilax or ferns Is set upon a
round or oblong red. tan. white or
green crepe paper rope mat
Crepe paper canoes have bow and
stern decorated with autumn foliage
and stin paper center bonbon boxes and
miniature lanterns in mission brown
cardboard have colored tissue paper
panels conceaiing candy eandleG
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03
Folding Umbrellas

College girls who dislike to be bag
gage encumbered VIII thoroughly an
preciate' the new folding umbrella
which win go cornsrwfse IN ne popu-
lar 10 inch travelling bag Whsn raised
the umbrella Is OF the conventional
rs inch diameter. while II measures
only 171s inches in length when folded.
To make IT collapse Il is only necessary
TO unscrew steel shank at the center
or the umbrella. where It Is so fitted
with double joints that the handle viii
fold back against the fsrrule tip. As
eacn OF the eight ribs which composs
the frame is hinged at the point where
connects with the spreader. one
half OF the rib, with its section a.
SILK covering attached. folds backward
upon itself so that the eight tips sncfr-
Gle the ferrule to its extreme pofnt
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03
wall Pin Holders

wall pin holders made 'of half yard
strips Of four inch wide satin ribbon
are lined with broadcioth and weisht-
ed with four inch lead oblongs. Tha
upper end OF the ribbon Is -gathered
under q huge butterfly bow, from which
depend two inch wide ribbon stream
ers OF even length. terminating with
satin wound rings through whfch
safety pins may be thrust A third
and shorter steamer terminates with A
small circular toilet pin cushion. At
the back OF the butterfly bow is a sun
stantial hanger, and as this little az
fair may readily be rolled and tucked
away In any corner OF a bag Il n an
ideal travelling convenioncA
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03

ing at other houses new persons Whou
you like. consult your hostess nbOu1
them and see IL they are on her vtsktfng
list or are persons whom she wishes 20
place there. II you stop 10 think you
will see for yourself that # would ba
most awkward il you were to happen to
invite to her house some one whose ae-
quaintance she did not care TO cultivate.
and you must not put her IN that ped
ton
Usually when a girl goes % vtEf9 haR
hostess gives q tea for her AZ anea. nnd
In this way summons all her friends 70
meet her. Such a tea n the accepted
way of calling on = stranger. and thema
calls should be returned within the
week Young men. OF course. rarely
have the leisure to attend such teas.
and so are not often invited It u the
custom to ask them to call on a visitor
informally on Sunday afternoous. Hvsn-
ing calling Is obsolete. which fs rmkher
q pity. for it was q socfabIe faGn4an ana
q pleasant way OF becoming hetker &C.
quainted
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03

cards until the older girl marries.
When young girls go to parties given
by their chums they should always call
on their hostess within a week after
the entertainment. and they should ask
for and leave card for the mother as
well as their girl friend. The mother
comes down to see the caller or not, at
her discretion, but she should always
receive the compliment OF being asked
for. Sometimes girls go to parties at
houses where the mothers are known
to one another only by name, and In
this case, when the girl goes later to
make her party call, it is most gracious
of her mother to send her own card to
the other mother, and thus express ap-
probation of the hospitality TO the
daughter.
When girls are visiting in a house
they must never invite any one TO call
without first asking permission OF the
hostess. One Of Madam Grundy's mex
orable rules is that guests shall not
take the initiative. II you are visiting
in strange city and constantly meet
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03

gold and silver thread, black velvet
ribbon or oriental bands be placed be-
tween them.
Satin finished broadcloths in wis
taria, London smoke. taupe, pale dull
blue. amethyst, soft light green. cloudy
violet, mode and tan make up into at
tractive winter pillow tops IL their
edges be finished with heavy gold tin
sci or silk cordage. Many OF these
cloth covered cushions are of oblong
shape, open at both ends and laced to-
gether with cords run through en-
broidered eyeletsT In some instances
they are laced "a all four sides, the
cording parting over brilliantly colored
interlinings.
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03
AYOClAl AMENITIES FoR
IsD1 Nzea THE SChOOL GIRkg

NTIL girl is presented to society
little is expected from her In the
matter of formal calls. yet she
does a certain amount OF calling among
her own set. and has her own cards for
that purpose
If she is still schoolgirl her card is
engraved with her full name and with
out prefix. After she is out, of
course, her cards bear the customary
Miss" before her name and she as
sumes II, too, in any. case after she has
left school. Unless she has entered So
ciety. however, her card must not read
simply. Miss Blank" for until she has
made her bow to the world etiquette
requires her to use her full name, and
her card should read, for instance,
Miss Belinda Beal Blank" When
there are sisters in family it is the
privilege of the elder, on leaving
school, to have Miss Blank on her
cards The younger sister uses her full
name, with the prefix Miss" on her
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03

eeE IRsT we teach the ordinary dane
ing steps. Nearly all children. now
learn to dance when quite young
but there are many classes which meet
one OF two afternoons a week merely
for the purpose OF learning how TO
dance the waltz. twostep and other
fashionable figures. neglecting to some
extent the physical culture benefits TO
be derived from the movements. At
beast this feature is not made as much
OF as 1t should be. either in individual
cases or in classes. There is 4 great
deal OF good in dancing this way, and
so Sc there an immense amount OF
benefit 70 be gained from practicing the
popular folk dances, but even the sim
plest steps. when done in TIE correct
manner, are excellent for physical de-
velopment- There is nothing like a hop
and skip to brace up weak ankles and
70 give poise TO the body. In fact, you
can not do these simple steps day after
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03
Dainty Coat Hangers

Covered coat hangers are a matter of
economy as well as of daintiness, as
not only are the sharp wooden edges
likely to chafe satin Innings. but their
rusty hook bases sometimes leave un-
slightly Lines Upon collars
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03

i dancing exercises Will do all tliat
instructors in this graceful art claim
for them then future debutantes VIII
be strong and sure Of ankle. supple.
and possessed OF far more than the
average amount OF. grace, for society
mothers are laying great stress on the
accomplishment Of dancing, quite as
much FOR the sake OF the strength and
physical balance that result from the
practice Of the gentle art as for the
pleasure young. girls derive from going
10 dancing classes and parties. Dance
and grow strong might well be the
motto OF the schoolgirl Children are
beiag taught literally TO waltz and two
step down the road 10 health and happi-
ness. and when they have become fairly
proficient in these fund.- entail. steps
they are promoted -hore intricate
and. interesting maneuvers Of fancy
sances.
90 Certain classes pay particular atten-
ton 10 exercises and steps which
strengthen weak ankles. 1T is aston
lshing how many young girls are han
dlcapped by having ankles that turn
and twist at the least unusual exer-
ton" said q dancing teacher in whose
classes are found hundreds of little
girls who come to him after school for
an hour or two OF graceful physical
culture lessons. 1t is easy to correct
this fault when the pupils begin taking
lessons early. but after they have ma
tured we can work less rapidly and
with less success-that is. results do
not show with al the speed we could
wish.
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03


Grandmother IN ell serious
ness. IF you seek it's counsel In the
true spirit OF neekness. humility and
self-abasement It will reflect your
faults OF manner as well as OF dress.
And il viii DO this quite as frankly as
any kinswoman, whose rebukes are
only too liable to be Favored with the
aioes Of exsggeration.
Even at the risk OF being wrong
fully accused OF undue vanity. girls
should take advantage OF an oppor-
tunjty TO glance into a mirror when
ever they are IN a room with several
intimate friends so that II they are un-
consciously talking too emphatically
they may observe the unbecomingly set
expression OF their lips and realize the
necessity OF preventing themselves
from forming that obnoxious habit of
expressing an opinion on every imag-
Unable subject which makes so many
women deserveoly unpopular. These
casual glances into q mirror win also
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03

| an entirely opposite view of the fat
footed tendencies and who declare that
the American girls feet need the most
careful study and dressing, and that,
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03
The San Francisco Sunday Call
DANCING FROM THE PHYSIC L
CULTURE POINT OF VIEW

strong enough to support itself after
this treatment. so they claim. and there
will be no future fear OF It's breaking
or the ankle showing weak tendencies
Dancing teachers are divided In the
same way as to the merits or the hign
heeled slipper or the heelless one In
some schools the instructor has the
girls wear perfectly hat sOles which
have a sti6ening In them like that used
FOR regular toe dancing slippers ana
then the ankles are supported by wind
ing ribbons. about an inch In width be-
ing recommended. as il does not cut
through the flesh and braces the ankle
When girls once learn to dance In these
shoes they find it easy TO DO the steps
easier, perhaps. than when wearing
French heels. although the BODY IS
given an entirely different balance.
T HERE Is still another theory about
supportfng weak ankles and giving
tile body the correct balance ana
that Is that the heel is placed in the
wrong position, that 1t should be nearer
the center OF the foot than IL is, that IL
should come almost directly under the
arch and that "A this case walking on
any height Of heel would be not only
comfortable and easy, but that the body
would then assume its proper balance
Where ankles are extremely unstaole
physicians recommend special braces
and specially constructed shoes. It Is
always a good plan, for a growing girl
TO have her arches examined by one OF
these specialists before learning to
dance or take violent exercises with
her feet. for then she Will know which
to avoid in the way OF steps end move
rnents, and which to practice for the
purpose OF gaining strength. While
the dancing teacher can get general
Idea of individual needs he can not
take the time during class work to
give special attention 20 any one pupil.
and for this reason he has TO make
many OF his dancing exercises rather
general in their effect. Knowing thS
recommendation OF the physician. how
ever, he could do wonders IN corrective
work It is thus that dancing classes
supplement medical treatment who're
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03
Waltz Develops Grace and supplercss

day without achieving both results.
Grace and rhythm will follow, but first
OF all we insist upon girls mastering
this fundamental step of physical cul-
ture dancing"
There are scores of women today who
walk badly and strain their ankles sim
ply because they did not learn how to
poise themselves when they were chill
dren. a few are born with a weakness
of the ankles and these can be helped
wonderfully by resorting 10 dancing
steps for exercise and strengthening. 1t
must be admitted that the present gen
GRAFTON of women has improved vastly
in carriage and walk, but the low shoe
and high heel fashion necessitates a
greater ngthening of the ankles in
order to avoid strains and u.lgraceful
movements. The low shoe demands
much of the wearer and not all girls
and women are equal to the demand
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03

"A UGH can be said for and against
NA the wearing of high heels by girls
There are physicians in good standing
physicians who specialize on the treat
ment OF the foot and its ills-who main
tain that the high French heel is better
adapted to the modern foot than the
low, common sense one is. They claim
that the arch of the foot requires the
support provided by shoe which has a
French or Cuban heel. and that the only
way. or at least one of the best ways.
to avoid broken arches and fat feet is
to wear shoes with this essential brace
for the arch
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03

HT-HE Spanish dance has in 1t all
! the movements that make Cor
grace and strength. 1t is one of the
first OF the fancy steps teach" con-
tinued the instructor, "and 1t is sure
test of pupils control, poise and en-
durance. The movements are quick
and varied enough TO exercise prac-
tically all the muscles of the body,
while the bending and the toe move
ments are particularly adapted to the
needs Of those afflicted with weak
ankles"
Exercising the ankles does not mean
enlarging them. On the contrary. well
regulated exercises develop their
strength without in the least increas-
ing their size. The movement really
helps to counteract any thickening ten
dencies which may be the direct result
Of wearing low shoes. Physicians de-
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03


clare that too much can not be said
against this fad among women, fad
which is being taken up by school girls
who love to initiate the fashions OF
their elders where possible and who
are booming themselves to many flu
ture Ills, all on account of wearing
summer styles of shoes in winter, when
it is as important to protect the ankles
from the cold as 1t is to wrap up the
throat. Not only do pumps find their
way into the school girls winter out
fit. but the thinnest meshed hosiery is
there. combination of wearing apparel
which physicians are most emphatic in
condemning. Keep your ankles warm,
they say, and your circulation, your
health and your disposition viii be per-
feet and. notwithstanding this simple
method OF attaining health and happi-
ness. We see the pump and the cob
weblike stocking haunting themselves
on the street, even when the side
walks are covered with snow and sleet
The San Francisco call., 1909-01-03

- ULTIVATE the habit Of fire.
Quently consulting your mir
ror." advised the April
csrandrro.be- q, .1l sa-so,s-