Los Angeles herald., 1909-03-14

-HE art of dress requires In these days most
careful study in order to acquire know-
edge of even the rudiments thereof, and be
It known that these same rudiments are all
important for any woman who wants to look
xel, eowped There is a somewhat tiresome monot-
onv in the constant repetition of long Ines that is
heard everywhere, and the crusade against ayordu-
pois which goes on increasingly makes man-mere
man--wonder at woman's tireless endeavor. To look
slender is obligatory from the fashion standpoint and
If nature has ordained the figure then 1t is es
sentia to obtain the effect some way or other and
oftmes the desired result is obtained by the lines of
the gown without the loss of pound in weight But
all this means careful consideration of the subject and
often repeated trials have to be reckoned with
The advance styles for spring show tendency to
exapperation of the slender effects of the winter but
attained solely by the cut and the trimmings and for
the benefit of the great majority of women there is
encouragement to be found in the knowledge that
every day the secret of the lines being discovered
so that with patterns the small dressmaker can be
relied upon to produce more effective gowns than
has been the for several years The great point
to be considered is that the waist lining shall ut per-
fecty and has often been said, the corset must
be carefully chosen Although the short waist line
il still the fashionable, the waist line of the
lining and corset both ongthe longer the better
being the rule Then the skirt is placed high ON the
lining, well above the normal waist and the material
ranged as becomngly as possible, closely fitting but
never tight the bust, and with the fat close
fitted sleeve that always make woman look slender
Methods of Securing Straight Lines
Straight lines in the skirt difficult to manage
but while 1t may be rank heresy to say are often
"a trick of the trade the straight line being given
by the in the centre of the front breadth or py
the braidng or placing of the seams. Often plain
scant skirt If not properly adjusted is full in front
In olden times this fault would have been remedied
or the attempt to remedy it would have been to take
in the extra fulness in the centre seam Now the
dressmaker who is clever enough to win success at
tains the desired result by going into more elaborate
rectfyng lifting the skirt higher at the back and
sides, and so giving much more slender effect and
at the same time disposing of the extra material in
the back This is of course, not cut and dried rule
to be followed, but is of the methods employed
to carry out fashions dictates and, like most OF the
rules has much to recommend it.
The dat, straight trimmings are of great service
In the long lines and every day sees some new and
attractive sort of trimming displayed for both street
and house gowns. Most elaborate and beautiful in
design are many of these trimmings, and there is
great variety to choose FROM variety In both color
and design as well price, for while the cost of the
most costly is decidedly alarming to the woman with
a slender purse among the less expensive ones are
to be found many that are most desirable
Broad fiat bands of trimming, passementerie, lace
or embroidery put both the front and back of the
gown give the straightest possible line while If the
band the bust is more becoming then the trim