The watchman and southron. [volume] (Sumter, S.C.) 1881-1930, 1909-11-10
NEW YORK FASHION LETTER.
New Styles And Modes For the Win
ter Described by Metropolitan
Modlstc.
BY Catherine Mann-Payzanc.

II view 10TH, NOV. os--out ol NtSue
ideas ,and many offerings wanted
styles are evolved into set modes
which may be ciassed in popular par
lance as Moyenage, Louis XIV, and
3 Louis XVI. which often cross each
other. each carrying its influence into
other styles.
That the Moyenage will dominate
the tailor-mades and semi dress cos
tunes Is foregone conclusion. while
the more sumptuous fashions OF the
Louis periods seem to have given the
dressier gowns their salient features.
II would appear from this months
offerings that the whole is distinc-
lively divided into two classes--the
tailor-mades and evening crowns
modified according to the hour and
purpose OF use. that is, the tailor
mades are of the morning afternoon
and utility varieties and the evening
gowns into those for late afternoon
for receptions, musicales, ETC.. and the
regulation evening gowns for dances.
balls and opera. Set rules are almost
impossible. and IL must be made a
matter OF study by the wearer and the
dressmaker how and of what the dress
shall be developed for each occasion.
For the majority of us such de-
mands of many gowns are not made
and few gowns. and costumes are
needed OF such general simple lines
that they will serve many purposes.
Both the two-piece and the three
piece tailored suit Is used, while the
aforementioned Is steadily regaining
It's prestige.
Empires are not so frequently seen
and are for the most part relegated
to the elegant necessity OF dinner and
evening costumes
The tight-ntting dress which has
founce from the knees grows In ia
vor for utility dress with It's bare
ness relieved by washerwoman
drapery or a felt sash with ends be-
hind.
A street costume that will be quite
heavy enough until the early days of
winter with the addition Of furs is
coat dress suit very suitable for call
Ing. church. afternoon. lectures. mu-
sicales, etc. The costume In question
was made of black satin cloth trim
med with velvet bands and fiat
braided design above the bands. and
was fastened with beautiful buttons
Of velvet embroidered with a tiny de-
sign OF braid. IL partook OF the Moy-
enase mode. The skirt was plated
10 about half way above the knees
and the upper portion was made like
coat semi-ntting with no centre
front or back seam. while those on
the sides were covered with bands If
velvet, one on each side of the seam.
six button decorating each band. The
bands are carried up over the shoul-
ders and the closing Is made on the
len side and shawl collar outlines
the top OF the waist in regular coat
style; la fact. the suit resembles
a skirt and coat. Above each band Is
a braided design. The sleeves are In
coat style with band of velvet and
braiding extending from the shoulder
to little below the elbow. from
which point the sleeves has a portion
cut ~out and filled In with lace, on
each side Of which the band OF velvet
and braiding Is carried down to the
wrist and around II. The finish at
the wrist Is q frill Of lace and q vel
vet band. The neck is filed in with
lace chemisette to match the sleeves.
The hat worn with the costume was
satin felt turned up on the left side
In cavalier style: a huge velvet bow
ornamented It's under side. A velvet
band went around the crown and ly-
3 Ing fiat on the big brim along the
lower edge of the band was string
of roses In various shades, giving the
note Of color needed. The lace used
was OF an ivory shade and the ham
die Of the umbrella was Of ivory and
gold and chamois gloves were worm
Black patent leather shoes were worm
set Of black furs will later be add
ed to the outnt. but at present a
creamy tinted leather boa ,s ,yorr
when needed.
A pretty costume that will come In
most appropriately for receptions.
matinees. lectures. etc. was develop
ed from a shadow check I'm the new
blush shade called raison. In tunic
effect II Is a mode that gives beauti-
fui lines and Is particularly effective
as an afternoon dress. The skirt is