The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1909-09-08

ing surfer launches his board by grasp
ing it in both hands by the edges, 50
that it balancesI rushes down the
slightly sloping beach and throws him
self upon the board as he casts it up
on the waters with a forward move
ment that gives it a good start and
sends it beyond the first row OF little
breakers. Then begins that constant,
STEADY, windmill movement OF the
arms, the hands acting as paddles, and
the six or seven-foot plank of light
wood swiftly glides out to sea- 10 !
the beginner the exercise soon tires to
exhaustion; the neck and back ache,
and the points of the ribs that toucn |
the board seem to cut through the
flesh. Perseverance, however, over
comes all obstacles, and after few
days new muscle is developed and the |
stiffness is forgotten.
Out in the deep surf, the board goes |
outward under the waves "a diving
tip being given the board just as it
bucks each onrushing breaker. once
out where the waves foam, the surfer |
sits on his board, which, OF course,
sinks until only an inch or so OF the
tip is above water, and waits for the
wave. Several may pass, then afar
off he notices the one he wants. 1t is
coming onward, a great green roller
with a ridge of almost imperceptible
spray along its entire length. This is
the wave that will curl and break to
perfection, then rush on for hundreds
of yards-a Niagara of foam. The
line of suffers prepares, and as the
base of the mountain of water reaches
them, there is vigorous and deft pad
ding with all the strength that skill
can put into trained arms, and the
great effort is made. Some rise rapid
ly to the crest of the billow and sink
behind it; they have lost the wave.
Others keep down in the hollow just
before the wall of green. 1t breaks,
and these fortunates are lost in the
foam, rise through it, standing on their
board, are lifted to the top of the
white crest, and by skilful balancing,
Sshu SuAihAh6 OOdlub Will IuCll
feet, send them down in the bias until
once more they are in front of the on
rushing mass of water. Some of the
boards of course are divorced from
their owners and go sailing in the air,
while the surfer uives, Involuntary to-
wards coral. Few, however, are the
accidents of surfing, and it is doubtful
it anyone has ever been seriously in
jured at this sport which has come
down to the 'haole' from the old kings
of Hawaii.
/ For several years past the sport or
surfing has been on the decline, for as
the vacant lots facing the beach at
Waikiki were taken up by private own
ership, the small boy of Honolulu was
forced to give up his favorite sport. 1t
was on account of this injustice to the
small boy that the Outrigger Club was
formed in April, 1908. Within month
of this first moving, there was a mem
bership of 200, and an acre and half
of property facing the surf at Waikiki
had been secured. Native grass-houses,
.
were purchased and moved to the prop
erty, to be user as Longing places,
their great broad couch kokD and open
lanais forming ideal retreats for bath
ers after a long contest with the waves.
Bath rooms were added for the free use
of members, room for slowing surf
boards, sheds for the canoes and lock-
ers for the paddles were provided.
New members were taught to ride
standing upon the surf-board, and so
popular became the revival of the old
Hawaiian sport that even the ladies
began to take a deep interest in it. A
number of young girls have learned
to stand upon their boards, riding the
waves, and together with their mothers
and old sisters have organized an au-
Hillary club, which has its own club
r house on a separate piece OF property,
donated by the Seaside Hotel manage
ment. So much for surfboarding which
has returned to Waikiki to stay, at
least for another twenty years, which
is the life of the lease the Outrigger
Club has on it's seaside property.
Probably the only spot in which the
outrigger canoe habitually rides the
J surf for the delectation OF the tourist
and the natives, is at Waikiki beach.
Here the waves roll in, long combeIs
from the deep blue sea- The native
helmsmen take their long koa-wood
canoe a mile out to sea, wait for a
great roller, paddle like furies as ii
approaches, get up a speed that sends
= the long, slim craft shooting down the
advancing hill of water at seemingly
angle of forty-five degrees, the canoe
every rushing down hill but never
reaching the hollow just few feet be-
l fore the advancing prov. 1t is
thrilling and safe ride, although o.
course sometimes the paddle OF
T helmsmen stops short and the canoe