The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-10-03

made Of well-shrunk nainsooi< o. ionE--
cloth. If detachable fOunees are pro-
vided, the arrangement will be perfect.
The hounceS may range in degrees OF
hneneSS and elaboration from lawn.
croSs-barTed dimity, figured or dotted
Swiss 20 handsome embroidery or lace
trimmed organdy and French lawn.
There will be better protection 10 the
hounce If the slip IS allowed 70 extend
in full length underneath il.
Gather the top OF The Aouncc into a
narrow band. Work in it buttonhoies,
about two and one-half inches apart, and
height for the founce- A band of en-
broidery or Tibbon-run beading, stitched
20 the buttonholed band at the upper
edge only, will conceal the buttonholea-
ussas the Slip With q TwO-Fises Costume
1t is not only under a princess dress
that the princess slip will be appreciated.
The avoidance OF extra belt thickness
and adjustment is quite as much to be
desired under skirt-and-waiSt cos
tune A misses costume shown IN the
shops IS not . model that requires .
lining in the making, but when dcvei-
oped in the lawn, batiste, Swiss, silk
muslin or serpentine crepe for which il
is so well adapted. the one-piece slip
beneath it will improve both SIS fit and
appearance This model, by the way,
may be made into 3 Semi-princess BY
uniting the waist and skirt by a band
of lace or embroidered insertion, match
ing that insert in lengthwise lines.
This is the most practical way to
make the princess models IN sheer ma
teriais, which have not enough body in
their texture 90 hold the shape of the
smooth princess lines The shaped prin-
cess is extremely effective when made of
aIl-over embroidery. Aii-over embroid-
cries may be bought at very modeTata
price il simple design Is selected
Few Ideas e Figure
There Is no question about the good
style of the princess models. nor the
general favor that is accorded them
Now that we are realizing the fact that
a pinched-in waist IS not the sum-in-aii
of good figure. and that equalization
of measures gives not only better bal
anes, but absolutely a more youthful
carriage, the princess gown IN weli-ht.
easy ht Is not the forbidden garment it
has been to many women Fortunately,
too, for in some of its many possible
notifications it is embodied in the
changing styles. The long panel at the
front, from neck 10 the bottom of the
skirt, Is all that remains of It in some
noQelSs out this Is rcaIIy me e&Se1Ial
feature of the style.
Il Is introduced with excellent effect
into girls dresses, when the regular
princess or Gabrielle model might not
provide enough fuiness on the slender
young figure. A plated skirt Is gen.
orally preferable to a gathered model
for lightweight goods. White lawn,
Indian linen or figured muslin may be
used. or one Of the dirlities or printed
silk-and-cotton fabrics, for the dress,
with plain color of the same material
for the stoie-yoke, sleevs-bands and
bell. For wear under thin unliued
dresses there Is a French under-waist-
and-petticost combination, which has the
long-wsisted body-portion and Aounce
that may be made to button on, permit
| ting the same variety of founces TO be
used as on the misses or ladies' skirts.
FinIshinE Armhsles
| A friH of lace will give the necessary
finish to the neck and armholes, and the
pattern includes straps, 20 be stitched in
| indicated positions to the inside of the
body-POrtion, to which the drawers may
be attached, making an extra underbody
for this purpose unnecessary.
HELEN D. PURDY.