The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1909-05-23

sibls. and say thas this tons softeus tho
complexion sad b moro iiattoring to 1t
than white. sl
some beautiful brilliant red oolorings
hsvs been brought In the heavy. lustrous
pongees, and willis . trine too vivid for
frook purposes are made up into very
stunning coats for country wear. Black
ponsce coats are In demand for general
use, replacing the onoe loved and prao-
tioai tafeta coats. and many smart mod
els In the black pongce are offered BY the
high class houses. while Of natural color
pongee coats there ID no end.
These last range from tho cheapest
and ~sleasiest OF garments. resembling
q much abused linen duster, to the smart
est and most ~serviceable OF dust
fashioned from firm. soft pongee OF good
quality, we'll tailored and oonespondingly
~expenslve. and the deliberately embroid-
cred or braided garments for dressy
wear. Spot proof ponsees on tho motor
order make excellent summer dust coats
for travelling or motoring.
While We are on the subject Of the pom
gees tho boruure pongecs with lovely
deep borders Of Persian design and color
ing should come In for their share OF at
~tention, and delightful uses have been
found for these border stuis in some OF
the lste 4 models. The fronts Of the
coat are faced with tho bordered pongee
and 70 cut that they fall back when I'M
buttonsd. displaying the lovely color
and design.
In some models the Persian silk forms
: sort o. sofs araped collar. A tailored
suit Of soft serge In pongee color re-
Gently imported by . Fifth avenue firm
had the fronts Of its long simple coat
faced with Q bordered pongee whose
oolorinp were chiefly dull, soft Q
tones and blues running into the tur-
quoiss. and on the very edge was An inch
wide band Of solid turquoise blue. All
Of this oolortng was hidden when tho
coat was closed and q most demure and
severe travelling oostoms appeared. but
tho moment the cost was unbuttoned
the ooloring vas . revelation.
Linens wers never moro In deman
and certainly nsver were 90 varied in
weave and color. In N other material
have the dysrs achieved greater trumphs
than Ia this ono, and in the workrooms
one 500 linen frooks and suits In all the
colors Of the seasons card. Certain
wood tones-msdium shades half gray.
half brown, with . dash Of Eeeu-are
considered especially chic in linen. and
the ash grayI are kin TO these. All the
wistariss and queer fruity lavenders and
puppies. tho Oh tones In rose. the odd
blues. the ooppsry browns and gold and
mustard and khoki yellows. the ALMOND
and pistaohs and absinths greens-in
fact, "a has been said. all tho seasons
nsw oolors are displayed in tho linens.
The white and string color linens too
have q great vogue. and some very elab-
crate coats are made up primarily for
wear with white linen frocks, but may be
worn too ove any sheer lingerie frock.
These coats are Of net more or less elab-
orately trimmed In soutache braiding
and linen bands = motifs, and some Of
them are exceedingly intricate In design,
while others are comparatively simple.
A coat OF this kind Is effective. however,
only when really good in design and work.
In . cheap edition 1t 10 q hopslessly coarse
and tawdry thing.
Very heavy hces on the Cluny and
Russian orders trim some OF the liner
frocks. and broad bands Of such lace were
used TO advantage upon one of the models
sketohed here, although this coat and
skirt .costnms on account Of It's sharply
defined timminG lines called for a tan
and slsoder wsaFer.
Blouses Of sheer striped batiste in white
and the color OF the linen are 30 much
lined ~ an accompaniment to the tailored
coat and skirt costume Of linen that 1t is
almost impossible to find such batistes
In the medish oolors now. and blouse
cannot all their orders. A white
blouse embroidered Ia color may be made
to take the plaoe. but costs more than the
other and lacks the smart simplicity OF
the simply tailored blouse in the soft
striped batists.