Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-06-20

NEW YORK, June 19.--No matter what may be said of the sty,e prevail ing elsewhere, it cannot be denied that the favorite gown of the fashionable women in Paris is the plain sami-ftted princesse, of dark blue serge, and trimmed in black soutache. Semi-fit- ted, in this instance, does not mean that the gowns are in loose effect, like some of the coats, but that they are slightly fitted garments which, while closely following the lines of the fig. ure above and below the waistline, fit with an easy grace, permitting slight movement of the body.
 In some instances this gown shows the familiar front or back panel or both, and in many instances the bodice is plain fitted to below the hip line to give the effect of tunic, with cir. ,ular skirt. This line is covered with beautiful arrangement of braid in combination Of wide and narrow widths. Another charming arrange ment is with the plain front and back panel, heightened slightly above the knees with the material set in deep kilts. At the neck shallow yoke of the white tucked net or batiste forms becoming contrast.
 The rage for yokes and stocks of sil- yer and gold threaded laces is over and these trimmings are only used an dressy afternoon and evening gowns. For the latter purpose, however, these showy laces are used great deal and with charming effect.
 Among the materials for summer waists none sre more popular than fine French washing voiles and French crepon. The French crepon is charm ing fabric, nearly all linen, crisp. sheer and fine. The crepon of American man. ufaeture is all cotton and thick and heavy. But both have tbe recommepda- ton of laundering without ironing. When they are dry they can be taken off the line and put on.
 Last summer the output of crepon of fine quality was controlled by large London house, and it only appeared in imported waists, which sold at fabulous prices. This year, however, the ma teral is sold by the yard and the shops can hardly keep up with the demand for it. It comes not only in plain, but also in embroidered effects and in ex- ceedingly pretty colors.
 Laces which look well if they are washed but not ironed, are, of course, the proper thing with which to trim erepon waists. Cluny, Irish crochet, handmade linen torchon and all the Italian laces, which are made by hand and wear like iron, are used as inser tions and edgings. Crepon waists, lace inserted and embroidered, and then dyed to any desired shade are consid- cred much smarter than waists of color with white lace.
 Very thin and elabOrately embroider- ed waists still button up the back, but waists of less diaphanous materi. als are usually buttoned in front. There is quite distinction made this year between the waists intended for afternoon and those for morning wear. Because, with all that is said against them, they will be worn with suits of light weight and color, at less formal afternoon affairs.
 For the tailored girl s morning wear there are straight up and down wa sts of linen cut on excellent lines, with the box plait in front, embroidered in white and touch of color The man nish cuffs also are embroidered and fasten with cuff links. With this she wears stock of satin, with narrow line of linen turned over at the top.
 Another model intended for the morning house is of crepon, opening down the front, with braid applied in military effect, and a straight stand ing collar fastening under the chin ill