davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-05

Portable about the throat in cold
weather The pleated skirt. set on at
the hip. is another new feature intro
duced this fall. Matching this trig lit
MORE silk hat with a big pulled velvet
crown, white aigrette raising from q
steel buckle at the right side.
No. 3-Tailor- Built Suit.
THE Englishwoman. however fash
ions may come and go. sticks to
her perfectly plain and perfectly cut
mannish coat and skirt suit for general
wear Frenchwomen also are more and
more inclined toward these severely
plain and smart costumes, as was evil
denced at Longchamps this year, many
plain-tailored models being seen where
in earlier years dressy costumes have
been the rule. This mannish suit OF
coal-dust serge-the new dark gray
color-conforms to the fall mode by
the low opening with Ions slender Ia
pels and by the length of the coat and
the slanting hip pocket The hat IS
beaver strip model trimmed In the new
fashion with only a fancy crown.
No. 4-Amethyst Cloth Suit.
GONE of the French shades OF violet
- and plum color are exquisite. A me-
dunn tone of amethyst cloth was used for
this suit. which shows the slanting. simu-
lated button holes made of cord loops
which are a new feature this fall. A
novel. cross cut over the hip also makes
the coat an unmstakable autumn model.
This cross cut shapes the side breadths
into three deep VS. the center one giving
the effect of huge pocket laid on over
the hip. There Is a collar of violet velvet
embroidered with three shades OF anne
thyst and the velvet toque In the violet
color is trimmed with an enormous dull
silver buckle and one OF the new furry
beaver crowns.
No. 5-New LongWaisted Coat.
THE moyen age mode with its dropped
! waistline has influenced even out-Of-
door garments, and many of the fall two
piece suits show coats with this moyen
age waistline dropped to the hip. and
pleats falling below. This graceful little
princess model is a happy illustration OF
the new coat style and Detrays the care
full cut and smart finish of all these suits.
The skirt is in trotteur length and the
costume is altogether an ideal one for
street wear during the early fall and win
ter days.
No. 6-Military Coat.
of trimming rather than
L any radical change of line marks the
gradual alteration from moyenne to Louis
modes. Trimmings were the feature OF
the gay Louis period and many new ana
modes of ornamentation are
coming In now In Paris. This smart
suit of dark brown diagonal cheviot has
the shield front fastening, the long nare
skirt and the slanting hip pocket which
are striking new style features. The
velvet cuffs and collar are matched by
he silk cord loops. which cross the front
In true military fashion.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-05

The following definition of lady the
prize as best in contest opened by the London
Gentlewoman:
80 be lady means rightly, to be a gentle
woman who shows by her every word and action
a sweet and gentle dignity. with gracious
charm of manner. 4 woman whose heart Is pure
and true who is tender toward all suffering, who
sympathizcs with those in trouble and is ever
ready to give that which costs her some enort
and self denial. \ lady thinks work deroza-
tory and no is deemed 100 low TO receive
courtesy and kindness. She Is pure and Good i'll
every detail Of life. IL true friend aud min
isterinc angel in sorrow and III sickness
IF you want 10 he cheerful, jos SGT yer mind
on it and do it. Cam none Of us help what
what we end up with. "-ALICE HEGAN RICE.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-05

not the pointed waist and pannier effects
of the feminine dress of that day.
The moyen-age idea, which despite its
much abused vogue OF the summer.
keeps in the foreground, is a dominant
feature of our fall and winter styles. It
is worked out in countless original and
attractive designs. Sometimes, ano fire.
Gated by a trimming Of stitched bands
shaped piece of material set on the
coat and stitched fiat. A stitched band
three inches in width Is threaded
through piped slots cut in the coat at
the hip line, the pointed ends fastening
down with buttons in the front, thus
giving a surcingle effect.
Most of US will hail with joy the re-
turn of the pleated skirt. different. it is
true, from the Killed models that went
out several years ago. but none the less
attractive. few killed models are seen.
but these SAVIOR too much of bygone de-
signs to be popular. In their place we
lower portion widely pieated or gored
and pleated to accomplish a graceful
swing when the wearer walks.
-
All controversy on the subject of
trained street skirts subsidized with the
brought out by high-class American
makers who have been abroad during
the summer studying the fashion situa-
ton.
Happier and healthier we certainly will
swing-clear walking skirts. Who knows
what may be in store for our sex in
seasons to come. 1t is rumored crinO-
lines-only time can tell
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-05

The preserving kettle. which mas led
a comparatively easy life during Au-
gust. is again very much in evidence.
Gardens and orchards are now full Of
good things clamoring- to be put up
for future reference. A little out If
the ordinary are these recipes. but well
worth the trying.
Sailed Corn.
To preserve corn In salt. select young
roasting ears. silk and place in kettle
Of boiling water just long enough 10 set
tho milk. cut from the cob and pack IN
an carthen jar with alternate layers or
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-05

DADICAL Changes in Both
IN Coats and Skirts-Fash-
ion Considers the Woman of
Avoirdupois The Russian
Blouse Comes in With Moy-
en- Age neutrality-suspicious. in
Masculine Attire of Louis
Periods-Pleated Skirts Again
Swing Clear Models for
Street.-The New Materials
and Their Colors-Less Trim
ming, But Finer Quality.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-05

left side lengthen the figure as no roll
ing collar coat can. This is the type of
garment which a short-waisted woman
there are still some of us left even in
these days of perfect corsetinE-will find
best suited to her particular style How
ever there is one mistake which she may
make, and that is selecting a Russian
blouse with a pleated skirt Though the
skirted blouse is attractive garment
and new design, the cut is suited only
to the woman of slender figure.
A variety of models in this new blouse
awaits the woman who contemplates the
purchase of a fall suit. There Is the
simple model fastening at the LETT side
from shoulder to well below the normal
waist line-a point indicating the moyen-
age line. The fastening of such coats
is made in variety of braiding. One
model shows the edge of the right front
cut in square tabs in which the large
buttonholes are worked, these buttoning
over cut jet buttons the size of a silver
quarter. Another fastens military fashion
with heavy cords and buttons set dag
onally across the double breasted fronts
and graduating in length from eight to
four inches. This particular model has
a high military collar of velvet with gold
braidings. A. peculiar bias cut under the
arms gives a pointed basque effect which
Sims down the figure and gives it the
best lines.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-05

shades lighter than the suit material and
light gray and white.
What we have lost in numbers in but
tons we have gained in quality. These
trimmings are unusually good for the
winter, many being extremely unique in
design. Wooden buttons of color to
match the material are a nuisance.
Braids are used rather sparingly, eS-
pecially the wider and heavier kinds.
These, like the buttons. are handsome and
beautiful in design. In color they compl-
ment the tone of the suit fabric when not
in black.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-05

sFER" is express
sive Of a long Pc
riod. but we may
safely apply it to
the condition ex-
listing in tailored
garments this fall.
Never in the his
tory OF street at
tire for woman
kind has there
been such a reyo-
luton In styles
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-05

most beautiful that have yet come to
us from across the sea. SILK sergeS are
being utilized. these finding their way
into the more dressy confections destined
for luncheons, afternoon teas and the
matinee.
This is a season of colors-and such
beautiful colors. One marvels at the art
of the dyer producing such hazy plums.
rich dusky reds and blues and browns
that are half black. The greens, too, are
found side by side with the blacks, browns
and blues. Then there are the gray
green's and the green grays which some
might call a dirty tan. and along with
these plain beauties are some few dark
mixtures: but this is a season of plain
coiored fabrics for tailored suits.
Coat and suit makers abroad are using
seIf-colored Innings exclusively. those OF
soft satin-like messalne. However, not
all American manufacturers follow the
Frenchman's initiative, for we see many
garments with Innings in tone several
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-05


the past few weeks.
1t Is surprising the number of new and
altogether novel models which have been
designed by manufacturers Of high-class
tailored garments. The war between the
medieval and Louis periods which waged
so merTiiy through the summer finally
suited in compromise much TO the sat
isfaction of all concerned. The medieval
or the Meroyingian period rules in tailored
wear. and under this head may be classed
two and three piece suits, simple
piece dresses, more or less coat-like in
their construction. and the natty. nobby
separate coat which Is to play such a
prominent part in fashions for the COM
ing cold weather. Not to the detriment
of the tailored suit, be 1t understood
This is season of variety, and women
will not hesitate to purchase one of these
smart separate coats simply because she
possesses tailored suit. There are oc-
caSions too numerous to mention when
a separate coat seems just the smartest
and decidedly the most practical form OF
dress.
But 10 get back TO the taiormNie.
year. She has for once considered the
woman of avordupois. Bot. coats and
skirts are so cut in fashion that they tend
to reduce the too apparent size of the
figure and give to 1t lines which are
graceful and artistic. There Is the new
Russian blouse. for instance. This coat,
taking its inspiration from the simple up
per garment of the Russian peasant is
splendid example OF a garment with lines.
The high closing about the throat and
9he straight full-lensth fastening at the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-05

Not infrequently one sees a suggestion
OF the Louis period in front of the new
coats, but it is so cleverly employed that
il is often difficult to distinguish from
the medieval IT is the masculine attire
of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries
which has furnished the inspira ton and
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-04
Division of Property

Just what real property William B.
Bradbury, the millionaire who is now
undergoing a years imprisonment in
San Quentin for perjury, has conveyed
to his wife and TO the Bradbury estate
investment company was revealed yes
terday when title was quieted by
Judge Conley, under the McEnerney
act to the various parcels.
Mrs. Mary M. Bradbury testified that
the lot at the northeast corner of Van
Ness avenue and California street and
the lot at the northwest corner of Polk
and California streets stood one-half in
her name and one-half in the name of
the investment company. Bradbury
conveyed the half interest to his wife
on october, IS. 1903, and March 10,
1895, and the other half to the COM
pany on September %, 1904, and Aug
ust 26, 1907.
Standing entirely in the name of
the Bradbury estate company is the
following property: Land in Polk
street, west of California; Prospect
place, north of California; Church
street, north of Twenty third: Tenth
avenue. south of 1 street. and a lot in
the Masonic cemetery. These were con-
yeyed to the company by Bradbury and
his wife September 22, 1904, and Aug
ust 26, 1907.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-04
EXPLORERS PREPARE TO
WELCOME DOCTOR COOK

NEW YORK. Sept. s.-America's vel
come to Doctor Cook will be made one
of the principal events Of the Hudson
Fulton celebration if the explorer can
be persuaded to hasten his return so as
to reach New York in September. To
this end the board Of directors OF the
Explorers club tonight sent a cable
gram urging Doctor Cook to be the
guest of honor at the clubs Hudson
Fulton dinner September 80. The mes
sage was sent to Copenhagen. to be
delivered when the explorer lands there
tomorrow from the Hans Egede.
If the plans meet with Doctor Cooks
approval and the date tentatively Sc
lected Is appointed for the Official well
come an International character viii be
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-04
NEWS BROKEN
TO BRADBURY
SEWING SACKS
Aged Ex-MiIliOnaire Convict Is
Stunned by Denial of His
Plea for Pardon
Complains of Ill Health, but Is
Refused Other Than COM
mon Prison Fare
Especial Dispatch 10 The Call

Special Dispatch 10 The Call
SAN QUENTIN, Sept. 3.-Standing
in a dark corner of the prison 1ute
mill, mending a defective sack,
William B. Bradbury, millionaire and
convict, heard the news from Captain
Randolph this morning that his plea
for a pardon had been denied by Gov
ernor Gfnett
A look of utter hopelessness came
into the aged mans face, the sack and
needle he was holding fell from his
hands and he tottered back against a
pile of Jute as though stunned by a
blow.
1T can't be true, he said family, as
though trying to convince himself that
the report was false. His face, shorn
of the familiar beard. had turned
whittier than his close cropped hair and
there was mist in his eyes as he
stared bhndly at the captain of the
guard.
1t was some time before he recov-
ered from the shock of the i'll news.
Then 1t means that l must serve nv
full sentence here?" he asked pIaint
lively. Captain Randolph nodded. But
L might secure a parole?" was his next
question. The captain explained to
him that a prisoner must serve a year
before parole can be granted. ct is
persecution" exclaimed the aged mil
honaire. They are bounding me to
death. l am too old to work like this
mending bags. I can't see in this dim
light and the noise here is terrible.
am nervous and old and sick. This
place is torture"
The captain walked away and Brad
bury, stoop shouldered. broken down
figure in stripes, went back to his Ia
borious task of mending bags where
stitch had been dropped by the ma
chine.
Although Bradbury applied to DR..
Wade Stone for medicine and com
planned that he was suffering from
indigestion. Captain Randolph states
that his appetite is good. He took
kindly to beans and stew" said the
captain, "and eats his meals with rel
ish."
There is at least one man in San
Rafael who regrets sincerely Brad
bury's removal to San Quentin, and
that is his former cellmate in the
county jail, George Spring. Spring has
lostIall interest in life. The big easy
leather chair of the millionaire that
Spring was wont to occupy while
Bradbury lay on his bed is gone, and
SO are the. reading lamp and the other
comforts that the wealthy prisoner
had imported from his Corte MADEIRA
home.
The elaborate meals, of which
Spring usually ate the major part,
have given place to coffee and stew
and bread. Spring had become a we'll
trained millionaire's valet, but now he
is only a jaiIbird waiting trial for as
sault.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-04
BIG NATURAL BRIDGE
DISCOVERED IN UTAH
Fossils on High Span Indicate
Giant Animal Life

SALT LAKE CITY, Utah. Sept. s.
Spanning 274 feet and over 800 feet
high. natural bridge, said to be the
largest known, has been discovered
by a party of members of the Utah
archaeological society. which has re-
turned from an expedition along the
Colorado river in northern Arizona and
southern Utah.
The bridge is located four miles
north of the Arizona line in the state
of Utah, six miles east OF the Colorado
river. On it's top were found imbedded
several fossils of remarkable size, in
dicating the presence in earlier times
of giant animal life
The party brought back with them
photographs as we'll as collection Of
rare pottery and baskets used by the
cliff dwellers centuries ago.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-04
LEAVES LEGACIES TO
CHARITIES OF THIS CITY
Boston Woman Gives Literally
to Catholic Institutions
| Especial Dispatch 10 The Call

BOSTON, Mass, Sept. 3-Under the
will of the late Bridget r. Fay of this
city, which was filed for probate to-
day. it became known that IL Catholic
institutions in the various sections of
the country would be benefited to the
extent of $1,000 each.
The San Francisco Institutions which
will receive this amount are as fol-
lows: Roman Catholic orphan asylum,
Our Lady's home for aged and infirm,
st. Vincent's school Magdalene asylum
and industrial school for girls, ST. Jo-
seph's infant asylum and the convent
of the Sisters of the Holy Family
The deceased left fortune of about
$4,000, all of which, with the exception
of $4,000, is given to charity. The
$4,000 is given to her husband, John
Fay.
Mrs. Fay died August Is at the age
of Sc. For years she has contributed
very literally TO charities.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-04
BUSINESS TROUBLES
CAUSE OF SUICIDE
Despondent Man Escapes His
Woes by Inhaling Deadly
Fumes of Gas

OAKLAND, Sept. &C. H. BRUINS.
proprietor of the Santa Rosa wine
depot at Alb Twelfth street, committed
suicide today by inhaling gas in room
in the Abbey lodging house, 524 Thir-
teenth street.
He rented the room for the purpose
of ending his life, taking it at noon
today Previous to this he had pur-
chased a long piece of hose, one end
of wn' h was found in his mouth,
while tile other was on the gas jet.
Mrs. H. Mclaughlin, landlady of the
place, found him at s o'clock tonight
He left three letters, one TO his wife
of 1000 Dupont street, San Francisco;
another to his brother. r. Bruhns of
the same. address, and another to
Charles Langenberger of Alb Twelfth
street, explaining that business
troubles caused him to commit suicide
Bruins was about 10 years of age.
He had no children.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-04
Since 1891 This City Has Been
Increased by the State
Board S383,zH,3I5
In the Same Period Los Angeles
Has Been So decreased
But S9,3lj,73z
SAN FRANCISCO
HAS THE BURDEN

SACRAMENTO. Sept. San
FrancIScO's assessment;
Total. 1909 assessment, s492, $685.
I87.
Railroad appointment, $394,2S2.
T0taI. S493.259.47
state rate 1909 (without equali-
zatiOnb. Ala.
sam FrancfscO's state tax with
out equaIfzariOn), S2.042. 2.O94.24.
Assessor DOdse's claim, so per
cent.
Based on state appraisemeBt. 81
per cent.
Rate on buildings based on actual
cost, 81 per cent.
Rate on buildings based on cost
today. go ger cent.
Number of times city increased
by board hnce 1891. ;.
total per ctnt raised. II5.
fetal amount Increase. $ss3,21.,-
3I5.
Number of times city decreased,
none.
Total increase of Los Angeles by
state board since 1891, S9,S13,-
7s2.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-04
MARINE
JURY DID NOT THINK
1T WAS FAKE ROBBERY
Lee B. Warren Said Actress
Asked Him to Steal Jewels

LOS ANGELES, Sept. s.-Lee B. War
rem, who said he had wealthy family
connections near Fresno, was convicted
today of having stolen the jewels of
an actress from a deposit box at the
Long Beach bathhouse.
Warrens defense was that it was a
make believe robbery, which the act
ress, whose name off the stage is Mar
garet Light. had helped to plan to give
her notoriety
Warren's wife, a IL year old girl,
with whom he said he eloped from
Fresno. told the same story on the wit
ness stand But the Jury brought in a
verdict of guilty in 20 minutes. War
rem will be sentenced Tuesday.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-04
DR.. FREDERICK A. COOK

atfew sana Cool h
ing Ii discovery Doctor Cook said
for rFreerck Then wento
last suethw aaet IN
and h enew broken But pnr
at neanohe, da ayey.T sh
d my
How desth enorh lk?
aid otor smiling it o Sc
nlyne Thae thar the ege th
onyh car put up g his i h the AI Ra
PGhah added h have there longer
when
we
it terrible fog ant kep u g the eight
We nowb to hunger oi were b d we unable
or gar n o the
and
pd n IN
a ragged W to
uncokedfo o NJ what W hunger
which attacked Our best against them the Ess
The eonspo story qD Coo a saying n
the day u provision std than 81. Iong
to back to o move to my lam
happetm Ten the whdew thank God back"
DoctrC Cookv h from the If he more howvcr
etnatonb before %
Kng wi hin thh
Ehgodm II
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-04
FORGED CHECK PASSES
THROUGH MANY HANDS
[Speciol Dispoteh 10 The Call


SANTA ROSA, Sept. 3.--A check re-
ceived here for collection from the
Croker -Woolworth bank in San, Fran
cisco, drawn on the Lawson-Rinner
company of this city, turns out to
have been a rank forgery.
The check was drawn for $3.50 and
has passed through the hands of sew
erai parties. including the San Fran
cisco press club, as indicated by the
Endorsements on the back. The for
gerry was detected at once by the To-
cal bank authorities when it was re-
ceived. and when shown to members
of the firm here they unhesitatingly
declared il was forgery.
Even the per e. H. Rinner" was
wrong, as Rinner's name is simply
John and he uses only a u" in sign
ing his name.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-04
By PAUL SINsHEIMER
SseeiaI DID 3 The Canl

Iopeciot Dlspdich 70 ne Gall
GACRAMENTO, Sept. 3.-Facts and
figures. estimates and percentages
- were submitted TO the state board
Of equalization this afternoon by As
SCISSOR Washington Dodge in support
OF hIs contention that the assessment
Of San Francisco should not be raised.
Assessor Dodge maintained that the
county was on a 60 per cent basis. He
reached this conclusion by several diff
tsrent. systems Of calculation. He ar
kued further that on the valuations
fixed. by the states appraisers. which
he rhought too high. the clty's roll was
81 per cent, or approximately the re-
cllire5.. standard
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-04
DR.. COOK IN INTERVIEW
DESCRIBES GREAT TRIP
Explorer Left Small Brass Tube Buried at the
Pole as Proof of His Discovery

ONDON, Sept 3.-A special dispatch from Skagen
"As the Hans Egede steamed by caught through
- my glasses of small in dark and peaked
his with his hands the welcome
years exile 1t Doctor Cook the explorer
He chatting with the
bridge, smiling his hands allowed to
board Hans Egede
Somebdy gave bouquet dimmed
buried It's
flowers said with of emotion his
81 followed him cabin His tanned from
splendid health. Only when smiled
the loss of two teeth,
fight he said.
cant
look forward
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-04

Y.M C. A. FLoURIsHING-New York. Sept
3.-The yearbook of the Young Mems Christian
association of North America just issued. shows
that the organization includes 1.914 asso-
Citations, with 456,92T members. gain Of 1o.5o0
in II months The associations property hold
ings are valued at s62 100000 and the aggregate
debt is only 81, 100. 900.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-04
INDEX OF THE
SAN FRANCISCO CALLS
TELEPHONE KEARNY SO
SATURDAY. SEPTEMBER 4. 100
WEATHER CONDITIONS
NEWS TODAY

HEsTERDAY-west wind; cloudy; maximum
temperature, So; minimum 50.
FORECAST FOR ToDAY-ClOudy; moderate
west wind. Page 10