The San Francisco call., 1909-12-05

as well as venise. Cluny is sometimes
set into the semitailored waists. il
company with clusters of fine tucks,
even when the type of the waist Is
made evident by the shirt sleeve and
stifiy laundered cuff
In the tailored waists the sleeves ara
Of course, always full length. but in the
more elaborate models they are either
made long. coming down well over the
hand. or else are three-quarter length
and end lust below the elbow; it is safe
10 saw. however. that majority OF the
sleeves are long
The Irish crochet lace is not being
used as much as it was while ago;
the winter is rather an on season Tor
II. as II is generally associated with
lingerie waists. The cluny tand chan
tiIly laces are more IN evidence at thlS
season of the year.
THE NEW NECKwEAR
When we come to the question OF
neckwear, which is always an impor-
tant one in connection with separate
waists. we find that very decided
changes have been taking place In tnar
direction Jabots in their newest form
show a tendency to unusual lengtn'
some of them reaching even 10 lhe
waist. The one sided effects are COM
sided frills are also in high favor; these
are sometimes ornamented down the
center with little buttons Of coral, glls
or let Another favorite development
Is the three tier arrangement, Ohs
piece above another, each shorter than
the one below it, Most or the new
effects are full and frilled and many
have a shelled appearance, aIthoush
the small, fiat jabots decorated Win
lace and embroidery are also IN de-
mand Net and sheer batiste are USED
for the new neckwear, and Valencl-
ennes lace is seen in comOlndtlOh, dS
well as cluny and some irish crochet-
Hand embroidery is as popular as eE7I
for decorating these little accessories
Of dress. and the small designs OF How
srs and leaves done in French ana eye
LET work are the ones most o1ten uSeu-
The stock itself has lost It's TWO
pofnts back of the ears and not even
high curve is now conceded 1no
stocks go straight around the neeA,
though naturally they are higher at
the back than at the front
DUTCH COLLARS OUT
The Dutch collar has had it's day ana
- No longer considered fashionable
The season for using these eoliaIs y
mast at any rate for with the comlns
in of furs so summery fashion WoulO
of course be obliged to take lts leavS'
1t is possible that this style or hecA
wear may be revived in the sprins' put
1t is too early ito prophesy about tnat
at present.
A majority of the rabats and jabots
are worn without bows, but sometimes
bows are used made either OF the ma
terial of velvet
1t is surprising how completely anc
satisfactorily a person can furnish her
entire wardrobe from the stocks OF
ready made clothing. few years ago
anything beyond limited range OF
standard colors had to be made by the
dress maker. But now. the STOCKS IN
the shops are remarkably complete. and
N is possible to match almost any suit
ing in a variety of materials and mod
els
N AS many of the new waists are made
of two layers of almost equally dla-
phanous materials. a little white china
silk or separate lining is generally
worn under them; this is made per-
fectly plain, with only small amount
of fullness at the front. and 1t gives
the added warmth needed to make the
waists comfortable in cool weather. as
well as being necessity when the fab
rics used are very transparent
USE OF WHITE WAISTS
With regard to the question of what
the white waists are to be worn with.
the proprietor Of one of the most eX-
elusive shops in the city remarked In
this connection that "the women must
be wearing them with their tailored
suits. although they were not supposed
to do So" This is undoubtedly the
case, as the waists must be worn with
something and they have always been
used in this way in the past.
As far as the tailored linen waists
are concerned. this is the only purpose
to which they could be put. as corre-
spending white linen skirts would not
be suitable at this time Of the year.
The fact that fashion In dress Is
feminine institution may explain some
of it's inconsistencies-or perhaps -
might be fairer to say since many OF
the great designers and dress makers
are men, that IL is a peculiarly human
institution which would account quite
as we'll for the fact that 1T is not al
ways entirely logical At any rate the
presence of these white tailored waists
in even the most fashionable shops.
when the word has gone forth that only
matching waists and skirts are to be
worn, has been very puzziing to the
woman who, when she has bought her
white waist. is anxious to know with
what it should be worn.
Many OF the new colored or dressv
white waists are made to be worn over
! the skirts Instead OF under them; this
- following out the costume idea Some
nave shaped girdles. and others ara
finished in such a way that the inten-.
ton In this respect is unmistakable
Separate waists. even the most aIst>-
crate and beautiful OF them, are nos
considered suitable for very dressy oc
, casions. unless the skirt matches the
waist so exactly as to form with II a
complese gown A few years ago hand
some waists worn with skirts of an
other color were considered perfectly
!, correct for formal dinners or the opera.
out 1t IS not so this season, no matter
how costly and beautiful the two senar-
/ ate members OF tho costume may BE-