The Daily Missoulian., 1909-02-21

~
the summer millinery question
is settled in most womens minds.
The very first hats, offered prior to
the Palm Beach season, are always
tentative presentations of now STYLES;
Tor what Paris deems the all-desir-
able thing may or may not please the
independent notions of American wo-
men.
Witness, for example, the flat failure
of the turban last spring Though
Paris took up this style enthusiastic
cally and many American retailers
laid in large supplies of turbans in
blocked and frame models, the demand
was killed almost at it's birth by the
monstrous, wide brimmed shapes
which carried the day.
Planning the Summer Wardrobe.
With February's end, however,
styles are pretty well established, and
it must be woman of very little
imagination who has not her whole
summer wardrobe planned from the
viewpoint of the new hats by the
Ides of March Uninitiated folk be-
lieve that the chapeau is an inciden-
tai affair, added as "a completing har-
mony to the carefully designed frock
OF course every woman who has.
hand in the choosing of her own
costume-and does not submit blindly
to the mandates of her couturier-
knows right well that all summer
dresses are planned by study of
coming hats.
Does not one start down town,
firmly convinced that what one i'm
peratively needs for the warm weather
costume de resistance is lavender
voile matched by a leghorn hat bank
ed with violets and then-persuaded
by the entcements of certain spring
millinery model-decide that a black
foulard with just such an airy black
net head covering was really the eff
feet one had in mind?
AS for the pretty colored linens and
the dainty dotted and striped cottons,
thousands Of yards are sold because
some hat has started the suggestion
of becoming color scheme in wo-
mans inauguration. This year the
choice will be very likely indeed to
settle on the black hat. for not in
years has black been as popular as 1t
promises to be during the 'coming
season. Already the shops are fairly
twinkling with jet trimmed hats, the
very latest word of Paris millinery
language.
Jet Turbans.
These jetty chapeaux are on every
hand and promise to have as great
vogue as the polo turban, which
created a furore some years ago in
the early spring season. The jet hats
are in round turban shapes, with
broad bands of lacy jet passemen-
terie trimming around the brim and
huge cabachon ornaments, also of the
jet, at one side; or they are in the
new pudding dish shape, with no brim
and crown whose steep sides slant
up to a perfectly flat top.
This baking dish shape is an au-
thoritative visitor from Paris and is
seen in fabric effects, with round Jet
ornaments at intervals around the
sloping crown, or the whole shape is
encrusted with jet particles, like a
rock which at low tide in an inky
sea might show a covering of strange
jet mussels. These jet hats, if set
golden or reddish coloring are very
stunning; but unless the hair arrange
ment is full enough to show all
around the edge of the hat, the effect
will not be artistic or becoming And
let the woman with tired lines in her
face avoid the scintillating jet turban.
Its hard blackness and daring sparkle
are only for her of the bright eyes
and a bit of dash in bearing.
The Toreador Style Once More.
Black straw turbans are being
shown in large numbers, and every
woman will want at least one of the
practical, comfortable affairs for oc-
casional wear, at least. The most be-
coming of the new turban shapes is
the Toreador, a modification of the
popular Spanish shape, which always
makes its appearance when there is
the least excuse for a turban style.
This 1909 Toreador is as debonnair as
any headgear ever worn by a Cas-
lillian Don. It's circular, outstanding
brim surrounds broad, low crown,
and the shape, while it is fashioned
to set well down around the head,
is roomy enough to accommodate a
very generous coiffure.
in true Spanish fashion, with pom-
pons or a chou of ribbon at the left
side; and if worn correctly, it will be