davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16
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| toquc-or bonnet-than used Ia be the
case. and very young widows sometimes
wear the veil drapc1 over quite Il good
sized hat; this hat being severely plain.
With no trimming whateyer-not even
bows or roscttes OF the crepe.
For mother. daughter, son or sister
the veil is worn around the Int. falling
well below tho chin and Is usually OF
Brussels net or mesh. with crepe bands
or ribbons stitched In rows at the edge
For the 6rst deep mourning veil worn In
this fnshIou crepe Is sometimes used, or
tne grenadine. which while not as
stillns as crepe offers the same protcc-
tlon to the face.
These more important dress details are
settled by onventIouality-and ones
dreSsmakcr usually knows what Is cor
rect and In good taste. IL Is In the minor
details Of mourning tEat many women
trip mp in the little things that make
such a deal of difference In absolute cor
rcctncSs aud In good style also.
For instance. the black bordercd hand
kcrohlef Is no longer carried by we'll
dressed women. who consider the Wide
black border ostcntatIous and vulgar The
correct mourning handkerchief is pure
white linen OF the finest grade that one
can afford. and ultra-smart mourning
hnndkerchicfs have cXtravagnntiy deep
hens scarcely more than four-iue6
square OF plain linen being left In the
center OF the handkerchief. Three tiny
Initials. plainly designed, mny be cm-
Droidercd In black 10 one corner.
Jewelry, OF course, must be laid inside
when mourning Is donncd The only
gold Jewelry permissible Is the plain gold
wedding band. \ bnudsome gold witch
cannot always he discarded for one Of
b'ock cnnmcl or gun metal; but the
watch should he tucked out of sight In
tne bodice and worn gun metal
chulh or narrow black moire ribbon.
brooch earrings and collar pins of dull
Jet are permissible. but very lttlc Jew
cry OF any Kind Il In best tosts. Pearls
arc counted correct for mourning wear II
set appropriately In blncb settings and
some very beautiful brooches IN hover
shapeS have petals OF black enamel with
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16

pearl centers-
Even gloves and shoes arc In prescribed
styles for mourning wear. The patent
leather shoe is not worn by stlcklcrs
for correctness with mourning roiment
though many women nre not so par"
ticular about this detail of dress. Duh
calf is the best choice for street foot
wear and In the house pumps or slip
pcrS of black suede may he worn. Suede
gloves nrc the accepted choice for fash
iounblc mourning but so many women
hnvc a strong preference for Gloce kid
that this leather Is often seen with even
very smart mourning. Black dogskin
gloves may be douned with short walking
suits for morning shopping wear.
No detail OF mourning gnrb. however,
counts for so much as neckwoar The
dainty white llue at throat aud wrists Is
often the saving grace that lifts cos
tune from sombcr lnslgnlhcancc TO a
becoming and attractive toilet. with
even deepest mourning this Hue OF white
nj the throat ia allowable and the black
blouse should never be worn without It,
for plnlnly made black waist. dttlug up
around the neck has n very unkempt and
unfinished appearance. With formal frocks
nil In one piece n pleated ruchin2 OF
white crepe lisse makes satisfactory
neck finish
The widow OF course. has but ono neck
fulsh-the straight, nuc bands of whito
orgoudie. two inches wide on the collar.
and bands fonr or 0ye inches deep at the
wrists. These bands are not bemmcd,
the stift orgoudlc being simply turned un-
der In deep hem. These bands must
inevitably be renewed each time the blouse
is donpcd. for they must hc crisp nnd I'm
maculatc-tbe least hint Of uutldiuess Is
Ia worst possible taste
After the Arst six months. when mourn
ing Is llghteDed n little. meek and Gun
bands OF nne linen or even OF net may be
worn. and two very attractive bits OF
mourning neckwcur are illustrated. The
collar aud Gun Of houdkerchicf lIGcn are
always In good taste aud for mourning
wear such necbpleces arc most simple, the
hemstitching beius done by baud uud
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16
Nannish Models for Morning Use-Pleats the Con-
spicuous Feature for all-Winter Coats Open
ing to the eWast-Velvet Again in Favor

and the only trimming used Is SILK col
lar facing or perhaps a bit OF braidng
in strnight border effect.
Coats With Kiitcd Skirts.
Moro elaborate than these mannisb
models Tor morning wear, are tho coats
With 1nt pIeatS set in below the hip
where a wide belt or huge pockets cover
the Joining OF pleats to upper pnrt.
Even two-picee suIts show these plcatcd
cont skirts; but the style is SO eccentric
and pronounced that one doubts whether
IL will last. At any rate. these coats
are not likely to affect the popularity of
the always favored maunsh model
which year In aud year out. holds Its
own with women who liko this conser-
vative style for morning wear Inuova-
tions are always more or less OF a risk.
for they may or mny not take With pop
nlar fnncy; but established styles
brought up-to-date by little variations OF
shape or trimming are always Il safe
choice for the woman who cannot afford
to follow every passing mode and to dis
card a garment that has become the least
bit passc.
Plcatcd Skirtn Arc JauntIIy
Youthful
Speaking of established styles every
woman Is giving a cordial welcome this
fnll 10 the pleatcd skirt. This style
crops up oftener than any other sar-
torial type, but there Is good rcason for
this perennial popularity. The plcntcd
skirt has n long list OF merits TO COM
mend il. For one thing II is comfortable
to walk In, One mny tramp along hap
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16
Oysters a la Riene.

NJ ARBoIL 20 oysters until plump nud
~ set aside ready for use. When the
chn1nG dish ls brought out. the fnct
TINT the oysters have been made ready
beforehand will snye much delny 10 the
little supper. Pour cup OF milk or
cream into the cha6ng dish and, when
steaminG, pour back into cup or pitcher.
Now put n lnrge tablespoon of butter into
the blnzcr and, when bubbliug, stir 10
tablespoon OF flour. When the two are
we'll blended. the hot milk may be added
bit by bit until thick. creamy sauce Is
formed, To this should be added a pinch
of self. n dnsh OF p0prika. n bit of hnely
chopped parsley, several drops OF lemon
juice and Just soupcon OF mace or nut
meg Stir into this sauce the parbolled
oysters. serve stcnming hot-nnd receive
the ecstatlc comments Of your guests.
Scnllopcd Oyaters.
Open aud beard a dozen oysters. md
scald them for second In thcir
own liquor, Make q white sauce, Into
which some oyster llquoc Is poured,
pinch OF cayenne, q saltSpoonful OF an-
chovy snucc and squeeze OF lemon. Boil
this until II Is cooked Put the oysters
in the scallop shells. pour the white sluc
over them, strew white bread crumbs OF
the top md place some butter In small
pieces all over. Brown them aud Scut
to table very hot
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16

material sloplnG downward In a cascade
at the bnck often these little tunlcs
are fastened ut one side Of the front
under row OF big fancy buttons.
The Skirt VIII he Short
But however the skirt may be made.
there Is ono thing certain; II Will be
short escaping the ground by an inch
or two Once again there Is n fad for
trotteur skirts. Women stood the trail
Ing. tagging Directolrc skirts with what
grace-or II must be confessed usually
lnck Of gruce- they could muster; but
several shionabes-important enough
to be indcpendent-bavc insisted on the
comfortable trotteur skirt Tor street wear
and womankind has gladly followed a
lead 30 desirable
One reason for the short walking skirt
Is the pct-doe habit, asserts tailor
who caters TO very fashionable ellen
tolc IL seems that women who own pet
dogs like 10 walk down the uVenuc with
their pets of morning, and as everybody
who owns canine knows, the combination
OF dog. a dog lenSh. handbag and
long skirt is impossible The most cultured
doggic Is apt To have emotional lm-
pulses at moments when he forgcts the
proprlctlcs and makes a mad dash after
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16
To Clean Old Lace.

m Id lace should never be cleaned With
e d gasoline. as 1t will take the natural
W oil out OF the lace threads Being u
vegetable product II Is rendered very
crisp, sttn and Liable to snap. The lace
should hrst be allowed to soak In cold
water. to which can he added a small
pinch of boraI- This should lie then
thoroughly rinsed out 20 prevent Its rot
ting the delicate fabric. When the lace
Is very valuable II should be basted 10 old
linen TO keep It from stretching. and It
should be taken out OF tho sun RS soon ns
dry. In washing IN Irish lace collar IL
should always be pressed while 1t Is lylng
rlght-side downward upon a Turkish
towel four times folded. This makes
soft surface, and when the lace is pressed
it will have none of the shiny effect that
honed laces gradually acquire. Before
wnsbing any lace nil OF the holes should
be carefully meudcd with Nc. $50 cotton
thread.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16

the skirt and cont combination, SONIC
ultra formal costumes are being made
| up with lcEg coats over handsome frocks.
| These frock and coat combinations are
| rich In fabric and elaborate I'm trimming.
| velvcts. satin cloths. brondcloths and the
| nov fashionable MORE antique being the
materials used Velvet. especially. ls
! seen ia very drcssy suits for reception
| and afternoon tenroom wear. These tea
| room costumes arc becoming n feature
| of the wardrobe now. Dropping 10 at
one of the big hotc's about the tea hOur
| one secs gowns and hats that would do
| credit 10 an afternoon function demand.
ing most formal costumes du ccremonlc
| There IL no more characteristic sight I'm
New York than these gatherings In the
| fashionable tcarooms after matinee bCurs
| and no sight which the out-of-town
| woman visitor may view with Inofc In
| tcrest and pleasure.
Ono OF these teRroom costumes In vel.
vet ia illustrated, the model-by Drccoll
| - being onc-plecc velvet frock matched
| by coat IN the new Russian effect
| RuSstuu Ideas have taken Paris by storm.
| Russian entertainment having been highly
! popular nj the French thcotcTs all sum
| mer. This long coat Is nu adaptation
| OF the smock-or caftan-which Is n
! strong feature or autumn styles. aud
! shows the loose lines, beltcd below the
| waist. and the shallow. round neck Of
! the real PEASANTS smock. The sleeves
also simulate the short smock sleeve
| I'm this case suggested by the hand
| OF embroidered trimming below which
is n gathered pun Drecoll hns tried
hard to break the severe line OF
! the long. tight sleeve With pufs and this
thrce-sectIon Drccon sleeve is o0sily rec
| ocnizOble to anyone familiar with French
| costume effects.
( The Smock idea Is carried out on many
OF the little frocks which nrc being worn
now without wraps and later will be
covered by the stunning long topconts.
| The smock has n round dccolletugc and
little loose sleeves failing hnlf way to
! the elbow. sleeve md bodice being all In
| one-wlth no shoulder scam The bot
tom or the smock falls to the knees
and below 1t IS a pleatcd skirt In trot-
teur length A round yoke and long
sleeves arc attached to 1ltted lining
which is entirely separate from the loose
| smock
Sometimes smock and skirt are OF con-
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16

PLY over wet pavement with no dan.
ger that ones shoes Will be rubbed by
cllnglug skirt. for the loose pleats
swing clear OF the feet at every step.
The pleatcd skirt also Is easy to bang,
and IL always looks graceful and smart.
Above all, IL has n certain jnunty youth
fulncss possessed by no circular or gorcd
model, which alone would cndcar II to
womankind.
Some OF the French tailors are max
Ing up plcatcd skirts In the regulation
style; that Is. with the plcats set into
the belt and stitched fat over the hips;
but the majority of these skirts show
the pcats falling from n ntted hip yoke
this yoke being sometimes quite shallow
and In other cases renohlng well below
the hips. often panels arc set on nt
front or back. and many smart skirts
show little oyerskirts or tunics over n
klltcd douncc
Tnilors Favor the ovcrslSirt.
In fact the drcSsmakcrs arc predicting
TINT by Christmas we shall MI be wear
Ing oyerskirts In some form or other:
plain. lifted tunlc effects on tailored
skirts and vcrtablc panuicrs aud dra-
pericS on more elaborate frockS Many
of the ready-to-wear suit skirts have
what the saleswomau will assure you
is the new tunic oyerskirt This IA
really n separate circular skirt, clinging
snuGly over the hips and falling over
deep-ploatc1 1ouncc. Some of these
tunic ovcrskrtS extend downward IN
points. others cross the front Of the
skiTt at the height Of tho knees In what
is known rs the lOmbreQuin effect. tho
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16

every detail of the work being dnintluess
Itself.
Many women not In mourning think that
the woman In mourning has very easy
time OF IT. her clothes being 40 simple and
30 few changes belnG necessary. But 1t
takes denl Of time Just 10 keep In order
these little ncckwcar tribes which. with
their ilne stitchery and the constant loun-
derlnG and freshenIng required. mean
either serious drain on tho pocketbook
or unremitting personal attention.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16
coLoRED sHoELAoEs NOW.

CoLORED SHOELACES NOW.
m ARIS is up 10 NIL sorts of fods The
- very latest notion seems 10 be shoe
lcces - or rather shoe ribbons - in
the color Of ones frock Bronze ties With
natty scarlet bows were seen with a
brown foulard. mntched by n hat with
brown and red fcnthere Violet shoe rib
bcns wero worn Mt the races in white
buckskln pumps. violet parasol stock
lngs and hat accompanying white linen
costume. Blue SILK hose aud blue shoe
ribbons were smnrt with pretty frock
OF dotted blue muslin
4 NEW uASDKERCHIEF CbNCEIT.
Y rather novel hnndkcrchlcfs hnve been
y sent over from Paris-nlong With
some rNVishiug lingerie Tho bapdker-
chiefs weFc hnnd embroidered, narrow
pink hem being set on center of sheer
est linen lnwp. In the corner OF encb
mouchoir was tiny figure embroidered
IN cotton eInctly matching the eolored
hem. Llttlo mon and women in quaint
costumes. queer birds and animals were
tho designs; cach dgurc having 10 much
individuality that the usual initials were
not needed to distinguish tho hondkcr.
chief from others.
ZIG HATS USEFUL AS WELL AS
SMART.
4 We come 20 stay nil night" announced
the pretty girls chum. "and ! haven't
. brought sign of hand bag-just
look hcre" She removed her towering
hussar turbnn With its big velvet crown,
set IL upside down In her IMP. united the
ribbons which drew lU the silk lining aud
took out OF the crown 4 dainty robe du
mutt compactly folded. ITS great
scheme asserted she 'You can carly
homo small parcels that woy-or even
your lmncb, wrapped In tissue paper The
big hats weigh 20 much anyway that Il
httle moro doesn't count"
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16

~ JSTINCTION in mourning Is mat
"a ter OF material and simplicity. Rich
3S fabrics on most simple lines arc
w Insisted upon by tho builders OF
authoritative mourning garments.
Cheap black IL always poor Investment,
| for the poor dyes do not keep thelr color
and soon become dlngy and shabby.
whereas n fine black fabric. rich In color
and texture. mny often be used aud re-
used TO good advantage. Broadoloth.
serge and nuns yelling nre all correct
mourning materials. and for house frocks
there orc duh sIlks. crepe dc chine. cbIf-
fonS and the Scrviccnblc mohOir for neat
little around-thc-house dresses for moru-
Ing and afternoon wear.
Folds and stitched bands OF SILK and
paltiDgs OF dull SILK ribbon may be used
FOR trimming II one prefers not To wear
crepe. The latter material. OF course. Is
alwnys expensive. but It ndds q character
Of elegance mud distinction to the mourn.
Ing costume which may not be gaImsald.
no matter what ones personal prejudice
uguIust the eomher trimming NAV be
Crepe ia 40 distinguished that 1t Is worn
now not only with widows mourning.
but also with mourning for mother.
HlNi'Ns 'uhHEH III Hll except
widows mourning crepe is supposed to
be discarded after the first six months.
Crepe comes now In O supple, new tex.
ture which Is especially easy to mnnipu.
late. and silk mourning blouse, seen
The other day IN an authoritative mourn.
Ing shop on Fifth avenue. showed a
plontine of this new crepe nil the WHY
down the front crisp little how of
the crepe being set just beneath the chin
Filet net biouscs also have folds OF this
crepe set on In lcngthwise rows. IIttIo
yoke of black net or chiffon being set
into the square opening Mt the neck An
other smnrt mourning blouse was OF
black 0lct heavily covered with n SOU
tnchc pattern, yoke and sleeves being of
crepe
The widow wears her mourning un-
llghtcued for two years After the FIRST
six months. however, the yoil NAV he
thrown back from the face. The widows
veil Is now draped over much larger
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16

trastIng material. very pretty little
dress in this stylo had n smock Of si!H
cashmere iu plain color over pIeoicd
skirt of checked fabric, bands OF the
checked material edgIng the short sleeves
and round neck OF the smock. The YOKE
was of Irelandc lace. with long sleeves
of chiffon nntchlng the color OF the
cashmere Cherult Is putting sinncss ot
chiffon over heavy serge frocSs; but then
Cberult can do anything she chooses aud
the effect is invariably very charming
The Long Topcoat n Fad.
Coming to the topcoats--a most im'
portant item of tailored wear this fall
one Is fairly puzzled whether to put ones
winter coat allowance into one Of these
fetching and swagger garments, or to
purchase the familiar and always salts
factory two-piecc suit. Happy tho wo-
man who may possess both suit and top
coat, for the latter arc certainly most
convenient articles to own-as well as
being particularly stunning In appear
ancc.
Topconts are shown In nil types. from
serviccablc. sturdy nfairs for rough
weather and motoring. 10 exQulsitely
graceful models for limousine wear over
dainty frocks Coats In both thcse
styles oce shown one model OF dlng'
onol serge with cuts md lapels Of MORE
slik and the new hip belt, the other
superb Bernard model of forest green
cloth with skunk bands for trimming and
big green buttons set in black rlws-a
topcoat that might we'll answer for even
Ing wear over thcater gowns.
A Solovicl topcoat. also illustrated, Is
OF the rough homcspun which is nccEed
with whlte-n material extremely fash
Ionnblc for these heavy coats. This Solo
yIcl model has a panel In three eeetions
at the back, and two of the sections come
around to the front In wide stitched
bells, which fastcn with huge cnrblnclc
buttons The general tone OF this home
spun coat is a tawny smoke color. and
the buttons show deep blue glints, which
arc matched by the groy-blue rcver facing
and cuffs
Many of the topcoats have panel of
pleating sct in below the waist nj the
hack, which seems TO foretcll indlsputably
the coming OF much fuller skirts.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16
A DAINTY Nnw-oLD COLOR.

Mp IsE-thc creamy, delicate shade OF
EN old lace. Is extremely fashionable
AS now. and lace guImpes and yokes, as
well MS jobots ln this tint. are par
ticulnrly good style With cloth costumes
Tor fall. II real old lace IS not obtain
able a very good substitute may he made
With ordinary tea This tea should bc quite
gcuk and. OF course, without milk or
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16
FASHION NOTES.

sugar, which wonld mnke the lace sticky
and std. There has been fad In Paris
this summer for frocks OF cream batlstc
trimmed with this bise lace and the color
Is really far moro softenIng and becom-
inG than dead white
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-16
Value of Tissue Paper.

~ HE value of tissue paper can hardly
a be undercstimated when it comes
w 10 packing things, especially In
trunk. The shoes hair brushes and many
other useful articles can be wrapped 10
tissue paper and kept from rubbing
against each other, The paper takes very
little room and acts In the same way as
cotton. Dainty gloves aud ncckwcar
should be wrapped In this manner
New-York tribune., 1909-10-15
OBITUARY
REAR ADMIRAL ROBERT w. MILIleaN.

Annapolis. Oct. nsRear Admiral Robert
Wiley Mnlgan, U. S. N GetireD. died sud-
denly tonight. He was chief engineer OF the
oatteship Oregon when she made her renarlxa BILE
run frOm the Pacific Coast to Santiago Cuba I'm
the war with Spain, and for his work at that time
was advanced five numbers In his grade He had
been commandant Of the Norfolk navy yard
After the battle of Santiago MiIiigan had oeca-
sion TO go aboard the Brooklyn, where he was
greeted warmly by Commodore Schley. who threw
his arms about his neck and said ''MIlligan, YOU
did It! If II had not been for the Oregon We should
not have captured the CristObal Colon
II Milligan's tireless energy and thorough
discipline below deck which enabled the Oregon 70
chase the Colon. When the smoke cleared away
at critical moment. the big hulk OF the Oregon.
which has since been described by an eyewitness
as looking like floating hotel. appeared between
the Brooklyn and the Colon thirteen-inch shell
from the battleship fell short; but the next one
went the Spanish vessel. whose commander,
without more ado. drove her ashore, knowing that
she was within range OF the Oregon. which was
Admiral Milligan born in Philadelphia. In
1s4S, and was educated in the public and nigh
schools. He entered the navy In 1868 as third as
sistant engineer. became second assistant in lS66'
passed assistant in 1874 and chief engineer In 1Ss
In March, 1899. he was advanced to the rank or
commander and became a captain in 1902 In April
1906. he was made rear admiral and retired
New-York tribune., 1909-10-15
EuCENE r lAMBDEN.

Eugene F. Lambden, one of the best known real
estate brokers of New Rochelle. and a descendant
on his mothers side, of the Huguenot founders OF
that city, died yesterday from paralysis He was
stricken on Monday night while attending meet
ing OF the City Realty Company, OF which he was
president. Mr. Lambden fifty-three years, old
and was born in New Rochelle. He was the son OF
Joseph Lambden and his mother was a Miss Flan-
dreau. One Of his brothers is John f. Lambden,
formerly city Judge OF New Rochelle
Mr. Lambden one Of the founders and an ex-
commodore OF the New Rochelle Yacht Club. He
was also one Of the organizers OF the New Rochelle
Rowing Club. a past regent Of the Royal Arcanum.
vice-president of the Peoples Savings Bank. a
member of the Fire Department the HuguenOt So
eiety and the Republican Club. He had also served
a justice Of the peace fire commissioner and
member of the Board of Education He leaves
widow
New-York tribune., 1909-10-15
JULIUS HOWARD PRATT.

MOntclair. N. j.. Oct. IA (SpeciaD.-Julius Howard
Pratt. eghty-nine years old. the who gave
MOntclair its name and who built the New York &
Greenwood Lake Railroad, the Greenwood
Lake branch OF the Erie. died here to-day at the
home Of his daughter. Mrs. Charles Haldane John
son. jr. Mr.. Pratts death was due 10 old age.
ago.
From the time of his arrival in MOntclair in 1851,
until few years before his death Mr.. Pratt
leader in nearly every public enterprise connected
with the town His most important achievement
the building of the New York & Greenwood
Lake Railroad He also the father Of the
present Newark water supply system. Mr.. Pratt's
wife was Adeine F. Barnes. Of New Haven, who
died in March, 1886. He leaves the following chill
dren: William A. Pratt. of -Guadalajara, Mex;
julius Howard Pratt. Of Milwaukee; Mrs. c. II.
Johnson. jr, of MOntclair. and Mrs. Eaton wife
of the Rev. James d. Eaton an American mis-
sonary in Chihuahua. Mex. and John B. Pratt.
of MOntclair. The funeral will take place on Mon
day