New-York tribune., 1909-09-05

guished by the ascent of Trisul C23,4O6) by DR..
l. g. LongstaT in which he made the climbing
speed record Of six thousand feet in ten
hours' and by the conquest of Kabru by two
rank amateurs of the Norwegian race. C. ".
Rubenson and Monrad-Aas The guideless and
untutored Norwegans not only made the worlds
record for height, but spent the night at a
| lofter elevation (22Go0 feeU than human be-
lnss ever camped at before They claim that
lNey We're not bothered much by the rarefed
AR Their experience demonstrates the neces-
slty OF strict regulations the part Of prores-
sionals if climbing is not to degenerate into a
cheap sport The least that can he said OF
MeSSrs Rubenson and Monrad-Aas is that their
style OF grabbing the Iaures of hoary-headed
kabru was indelicate
In the Andes, Edward Whympcr, who first
mastered the Matterhorn in 1863. accomplished
the conquest of Chimborazo t2049S) in the late
sos. Like all professional climbers. he had a
Swiss guide with him. also a Swiss porter.
AIter0a ard this noted alriuist enio,cd himself
IN the Selkirks Of Canada. In 1897 Aconcagua
| (23"Sc) was attacked by + \ Fitzgerald and
though illness prevented him from getting to the
top, members Of his party-S Vines and the
guide Zurbriggen--succe,ded The following
year Sir Martin Conway uudc some respectable
aSc'nts, and consoled himself for not making
the last 250 feet Of Illampu )Sorata) by reduc-
ing its reputcd height from 24h12 feet to
ItllS"nometric certainty of 21.1oo feet. Miss Peck
the American, was foiled in an attempt on Mount
Sorata in 1903, although she had Swiss guides
and all appurtenances. After another vain at
tempt on Sorata the following year Miss Peck
turned to Mount Huascaran in Peru, and after
the second trial in 1905 reported that she had
succeeded i'll scaling peak estimated 23,S00 to
1000 feet and perhaps higher" With all due
rtSpCCt 70
be shown the scientific measurements Of Huas-
caran
OF Alaskan peaks Mount Saint Elias GS.1Oo
IfeeO was conquered hy the Duke Of the Abruzzi
in 1897, and Mount Mckinley Nnore than 2O00O)
by DR.. Frederick A. Cook. of Brooklyn, in 1906
These two mountains difficult chiefly be
cause OF their location in an Arctic wilderness.
DIR. Cooks feat especially required stubborn
courage and endurance.
After reaching the summit Of Mount Saint
Elias through snow and ice the Italian
rorer. with large caravan. travelled through
the tropical heat of Central Africa 10 make
attack on the multiple peaks Of Ruwenzorl, the
equatorial source Of the Nile and probably
Ptolemys Mountains Of the Moon Fourteen OF
the Ruweuzori peaks. reaching to height
Of lG.S15 feet, were asc,nded by the Duke OF the
Abruzzi.
Among the few notable disasters in the an
nails Of professional climbing vas that of
WhymTor's party in the first conquest OF the
Matt,rhorn, in 1850 and the accident the
Dent Blanche, in 1N59- In the first case a novice
slipped and dragged with himself TO death the
chief guide and two others. TIE rope broke
above the fourth man, saving Whymper ami his
two guides In the Dent Blanche affair the
cli.i guide SLIPPED and pulled three others into
glasm. solitary survivor was left TO make
-. rtTt',rTg The nj
suffer thousand deaths in the awful two days
ana nights that elapsed ere he GragG ID hlmse:
at length. exhausted and furnished place Of
SAFE -