Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-10-24

ion authorities say that n0twlthstand- ing the remote possibility that the tight fitting basque-shaped coat will be favored by some of the French makers, and the probability that the close fit ing three quarter length model will meet with deserved success as part of the reliable tailor-made, we may safely bank on the continuance of the separate coat. Indeed, many of the coat models of last years most comfortable out door wraps. We have again the double breasted garment, showing a fair de gree of room inside, notwithstanding a proclamation that all coats are to be fitted. We have the long, straight dart from shoulder to hem, also shawl col lars and very low fastenings on ample coats with the same close sleeves seen last year.
 In anticipation of the opening of the operatic season many gorgeous capes and cloaks have arrived from Paris and the American dressmakers are also showing many fine garments of that character, built after Paris models The craze for airy stuffs of all sorts has brought with it a vogue for transparent evening wraps which seem curiously in appropriate for winter wear. These thin wraps, of course, are usually pro yided with warm Innings, but the eff feet must suggest fragility and gauzi. ness or the wrap is failure.
 The most notable feature of interest at recent exhibition of Paris evening costumes was cloak of coarse gray .l with silver thread, and falling in full, straight folds from neck to, hem. The silver-darned net was hung over silver tissue and all around the edge of the cloak went border of gray chinchilla fur. Inside was lining of rose pink satin, yelled with gray chiffon. The eff feet of this wrap was delicate, but the four layers of fabric offered substantial protection from the cold.
 Another beautiful lace wrap was of Valenciennes lace, colored metallic gray shade and hung over shellfsh pink silk. There was shaped turn over collar on this cape made of silver gray satin, embroidered with pink beads, and holding the collar together in front was clasp formed of ttyr large pink and white cameos, perfectly matched and set in silver rims.
 More appropriate for cold winter nights are the wraps of velvet and bro. cade, of which large variety is shown in the fashion shops. Such wraps seem best suited to the matron and dowager, but even women of tender years affect these heavier cloaks. A majority of these wraps are built on simple lines, the material falling in straight, stately lines from neck to feet.
 In contrast to this elegant, simplicity of effect are the Arab, or Assyrian, cloaks, which wrap around the figure and are draped up over the shoulder. These cloaks came into vogue because of the opera ''Salome, y which portrays the time of Herod, when costumes were especially extravagant and splendid Assyrian wraps are usually built of very soft satin or crepe stuffs, which drape gracefully. The lighter weight chiffon velvets are sometimes used, also brocaded velvet, a new material of un- usual richness. Some of these brocaded velvets, with their huge raised flowers on a satin ground of contrasting color.
 
 were considered highly elegant gener- ation ago.
 Crepe meteor, satin and bengaline silk are all used for handsome evening wraps for opera and other wear over gowns of strictly grande toilette type. These rich silk wraps are sometimes seen in the theater Hobbies and restaur- ants, but only when their wearers are conveyed in closed vehicles. The cloth wrap or a silk or satin one of dark col bring and inconspicuous character is in best taste for street wear or for use when a trip must be taken in public conveyance.
 One of the most striking features of the exhibits of the fashionable shops is the large number of really charming blouses displayed; not ordinary shirt waists, but just such dainty blouses as the fashionable woman has been in the habit of ordering from her dressmaker as the complement of her tailored suit. Many of these blouses are made after French models and are quite expensive.
 Some of the imported models are ex- eeedingly elaborate, handsome enough to be worn even with the most stunning of velvet, silk or cloth costumes, and especially designed with a view to be worn to restaurant luncheons, matinees, etc, where tailored costume is the most comfortable and practical attire and yet hint of elaboration is desir- able. Some of these blouses go well with costume of a certain color. The most charming ones are in metallic ef, fleets, with touches of cream or white for relief, and so fine and soft are the metallic nets, laces, etc, that such a blouse is by no means the barbaric thing it might be imagined
 The use of net or fine yelling or chiffon over lace foundation is very prevalent and often the creamy lace foundation has glinting threads of gold in it's pattern. Such fine gold-run lace may be bought at prices by no means high and the woman who wants pretty homemade blouse to match a suit can achieve excellent results by using chif- fon or net matching her suit over cream and gold lace foundation, with cream net over gold or cream net and narrow gold lace in the guimpe.
 Some rather simple models in crepe