Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-06-29

should occupy on the waist-lining
While 1t involves little more trouble
1T is rather more accurate, particularly
for the dressinaker without great ex.
perience. Even an experienced dress
maker will prefer to be extra cantioui
when she first attempts new style that
has some novel points of construction
1t is a simple matter to cut girdlc,
using the provided pattern and odd
scraps of Cambria lining. Cut this care
fully, mark the perforations, haste the
seams and fit the girdle aver the waist
lining, with the waist-line perforations
of the girdle directly at the natural
waist-line of the figure.
Transfer these perforations, and those
for the high waist-line, to the fitted
waist-lining by pinning through both
Innings at each set of perforations. then
turning over the edge of the girdlc and
making a continuous line of basting-
stitches on the waist-,lining, using the
folded edge of the girdle as guide.
The girdle has now served its purpose
and may be removed, but kept with
the pattern for future use. a we'll
fitted girdle support may be put to sew
! eral practical uses.
q Draping tho Skirt
= The skirt is now to be draped to the
waist-lining, pinning its upper edge to
the line indicated for 1t on the lining
The skirt may be fitted, at the normal
waist-line, as closely to the figure al
desired, making of the completed gown
a princess or Directoire model, as either
one or the other may be more becom-
ing. With waists of the bolcro type,
| the waist portion usually ovcrlaps the
| top of the skirt, even when the lattei
is finished with girdle In either crush
or plain strap form.
When a waist in regulation waist
length is adopted with the skirt into a
one-piece costume, it should be draped
on the lining before the skirt, and the
excess material below the traced high
waist-line, cut away. A high-cut skirt
mounted on its supporting girdle, may
be worn as a separate skirt over all
most any regulation-lcngth waist, but
such an arrangement will result in sew.
| eral unnecessary layers of material
| about the waist, and is hardly desirable
for even slender figure.
| The girdle-supported skirt is, how.
ever, particularly well adapted for wea,
with an unlined lingerie or silk waist
| The necessity for an extra belt or girdls
|
the unsightly separation at the back be.
tween skirt-belt and outside belt. Thu
lingerie waist, being thin, will not ap.
preciably increase the size of the waist
Consider Your Figure
l 1t is by no means a hard-and- fast
rule that the patterns high waist-line
must be made the same actual line al
the top of every skirt You NAV have
some deviation Of figure which, though
slight, has necessitated some alteration
, fitting. in the. vertical lines of waist
and skirt, and it is quite as important
that the few horizontal lines shall b
ton of bands and founces cannot BIZ
expected to be equally suitable for 4
5911lneh and ID, =: A3-inch skirt length; j,
from neck to waist-line may require
that the high skirt-line be lowered !
bit It is easily understandable that i
stout figure may not gracefully wear Q
very broad girdle. For best effects, the
latter's breadth should diminish proper.
tionately with the inches that are added
principles, one piece of advice to d
stout woman is to avoid horizontal
lines.
! Breaking tho waist.Line
The skirts high waist-line may b.
broken TO good effect by bretelle-lika
straps. that cross the shoulders and ex.
tend down on the skirt, we'll over thu
natural waist=line. They shonld BIZ
J braided or otherwise trimmed.