The herald and news. [volume] (Newberry S.C.) 1903-1937, 1909-01-05
WILL SEABROOK'S TRAVELS.
Me Visits Mines, France, and Gives
The Herald and News His Ex-
periences And Impressions.
(By ". B. Seabro0k.)

Special to The He~Gld and News.
MINES, F'ranc~.-Geologists have
frequently remarked the eminently
"sociable' character of the French
sell, which, as it gradually approach
es the frontiers, seems to absorb the
traits of the adjoining countries. The
observation is equally true of the
monuments that have been raised by
the hand of man. One cannot con-
ceive a more admirable preface to
ancient Italy than the Roman ruins
and relics in the lower valley Of the
Rhone. The Eternal City excepted, it
is doubtful if Italy itself can pre-
sent an ensemble Of temples, arenas
and ampitheatres superior to that Of
fered by Mines, Aries, Orange St.
Remy, Vienne and other less cele-
brated Provencal sites, whose prec-
ious antiquities recall the power and
glory of the Caesars, invaders, con-
querors and then civilizers Of these
hitherto barbarian regions. Since
the explosion which shook the Athen-
ian acropois and wrecked the Par
thenon, no existing temple in Greece
or Italy is as well preserved or as
beautiful as the Ma;son Carree; the
arenas Of Mines and Aries are in
an infinitely better state of preser-
vation thar the Coliseum; as for the
Pont du Gard, it is one Of the unique
marvels of the world.
Few cities present to the traveller
more imposing picture than Mines,
particularly when it is first perceived
from the summit of the viaduct. Sur
rounded by shaded esplanades and
splendid modern buildings, the sal
lent feature Of the lanseape is the gi-
gantic ampitheatre; behind it rises a
ridge of green and thickly wooded
hills, the tallest summit crowned by
the romantic and enigmatic silhouette
Of the Tour Magne. Of all the an
eient ampitheatres, that of Mines
has suffered least from the ravages
Of time and vandal hands. It is also
one Of the largest; it was designed to
furnish places for 10000 spectators,
which attests the Importance Of the
city during the time it was governed
by the Romans.
The arena, though spared destruc-
tion, has undergone many and varied
vicissitudes; the Visigoths, having
invaded and conquered the province
in the year 472, constructed a fortress
and watch tower upon its topmost
arches; for the .Saracens it served a
similar purpose and when Charles
Martel expelled them from the coun-
try he set fire to the vast agglomer-
alton of buildings, which had sprung
up inside the protecting walls Of the
ampitheatre, but while the buildings
of the Saracens crumbled in the heat,
. the massive arches Of Roman mason
ry stood firm. During the middle
ages, this provincial coliseum became
the habitation Of thousands of poor
families, who constructed rude shell
ters beneath the arches, in the inches
of the walls, and in every crevice
which offered refuge, living like AZ
tees or prehistoric cave-dwellers. In
side the arena vertiable village
was built upon the rising tiers Of
stone seats, and soon the whole gi-
gantic structure was swarming with
life. like monstrous beehive or a
New York tenement. This city-of-
the-poor eventually became distinct
quarter Of Mines, with markets,
shops, restaurants and even a church,
which was built in one of the gal
leries Of the second floor and chris
tened "St. Martin des Arenes. -
However, the National Commission
Of Historic Monuments has removed
all this debris, and, as far as possible,
restored to the ampitheatre its prop
er aspect.
Aside from the sentiments IF awe
and solemn wonder which all Roman
monuments inspire, the point which
struck me most forcibly in connection
with the construction Of this build
ing was the perfect adequacy of its
exits. with one single exception,
catastrophes like that of the Iroquois
theatre in Chicago, which, unhappily
are Of all too frequent occurrence in
this enlightened goth century, were
unknown to the Romans.) Aside from
the unnumerable staircases which
cou1d he thrown omen or closed at