The San Francisco call., 1909-01-10

know that furs are now in their glory,
the mild weather which we have been
experiencing having no effect on their
wear. They >are to be seen to greater
extent than ever and are more fasll-
ionable than has been the case in any
previous season. Furs recalling the
days of Louis XVI and Louis XVIII
at Versailles, when sleighs and sedan
chairs showed on their panels Ihes
handiwork Of Boucher Vatican, Pater
and Lancret, are 10 be seen in what
is called the fur parade" which takes
place each afternoon in the Rue de la
PaiN between the hours of and 4.
Words fail TO describe their magnif-
cence. Chinchilla and sable cloaks
which reach the ground and ermfne
stOles with muffs and toques to match
are not seen singly, but literally by
the dozen.
The time when furs We're handed
down from generation TO genera tion,
reverently and with the strietest in
functions that they be preserved, has
passed Each year now one must have
recourse TO the furrier TO change these
precious garments and make them con-
form to the demands Of present day
fashion.
Mink is being used to very great
extent just ROW by those who can not
afford sable. It is most useful and
4ufdD4e pelAISs ana is an eXcellenL sun
sutute for the more costly fur men
toned. 1t is soft and anything but
clumsy, while its color is warm and
becoming to all eompleXions.
An impression formerly prevailed
that vison or mink was an elderly
fur, but that idea has now disappeared
The smartest of stoles and muffs are
now made of mink.
If,,er L., !
ments of Paris are in state of chrys-
ais. The spring and summer styles
and models are being completed and
viii be shown to the more favored by
the middle OF January and to the gen
eral public by the first of February
What viii the next chapter of fash
ion reveal2 Are we to have a radical
our skirts until we reach the stage
depicted in q Paris fashion paper,
which shows woman in even scantier
attire than we have been accustomed
TO Of late? The most commendable
point of today's dress is that they re-
quire so little material Three yards
and a half of material will make a
dress. Think of that, We who have been
accustomed to using twice that amount
or more, Silk foundations are to be
abolished, but where we economic with
one hand we are lavish with the other.
for our waistcoats and trimmings cost
small fortune.
But total change is said to be in
preparation, and, if the oracle speaks
truly, next summer we shall be trans
formed into Dresden china shepherd
esses and almost renewing the glories
of the court of Louis XVI We shall.
it is said, return to the pointed wasp
waist and voluminous skirts of that
period. Blue will mate with pink and
tender Celadon greens will be all the
rage.
There are great possibilities in the
gray green capuchon headWear or beN
plumed Lamballe hats, and Paris, so
royalist at heart. viii revel in most
reasonably unrepublican styles.
The latest caprice is to revive fash
ions that have recently gone out This
is a sign of healthy reaction. We re-
fuse to be utter slaves of fashions de-
crees. As in the case of the blouse
executed so often by Nine. la Mode
and rescued by our sovereign will, we
are proving that we mean to hold out
own.
One Of the latest resurrections is the
! Greek key pattern. In trimmings, ga
Ions and embroidery We have returned
to this exquisitely classical design. We
are so enamored Of variety that we
must have it at any price, but so long
as such changes work for beauty we
have no cause to complain.
A pretty conceit is the placing OF
small metal chains in the hem of our
narrow skirts. This il is that gives
! the sinuous lines and the graceful
! 'enroulement' to our draperies. Such
/ tricks of the trade are known to the
real Parisienne and the charm of it is
/ that even a modest dress maker here is
up to every move on the board OF
/ fashion.
Trimmings are very rich. and the
gallon and bands of embroidery on net
reach very high prices. There is q
feeling for dull steel and green or cop
per shades of gold. Metallic lace i:
tilly or Spanish designs, and the Arabic
| characters are seen in bands Of EN-.
| broidery en- relief Spiderweb tinse
| net on gold or silver spotted net il
reserved for guimpes and sleeves. Sep
arate guimpes with or without sleeves
are required in large quantities by th'
woman of fashion. the net yoke has
been rightly discarded. What on
grandmother's termed the "habit shirt
is useful element of economy in dress
NO one thlnkS OF having loo man.
dresses, now that fashion is changing
One of satin, cashmere or cloth, mad'
| with the buttoned fiat pleat back anc
! front, can have quite a half dozel
guimpes; one of tucked net, with Ions
/ sleeves of the same material; anothe
of gold spotted net with sleeves t.
match; third of black piece net owe
white, and so on, to suit ones fancy.
The present modes can be made eco
nomical by the use of a little common
sense. Velvet costumes are very mucl
in vogue. Violece or dull shade o
heliotrope and art green on sapphire
blue are, with black, the best colori
for velvet frocks.
Fringe is here once more-beautiful
supple fringes Of net, tubular beads
with silk lace or velvety or rats tai
chenille. 1t is headed by trellis worl
and finished with little silk 'bobs." /
is lustrous. serpentine, undulating. /
swings and shimmers as the wearel