The Morning examiner. [volume] (Ogden, Utah) 1904-1910, 1909-04-18

md also for joining uniined yokes to
lrcsscS or waists. The regulation three
.ighths-inch scam is stitched in the usual
raw edges toward the inside
Of the garment, one edge is then
off, leaving only enough cloth
10 extend safe distance beyond tha
The remaining seam edge 10
urned under and hcmmed either by hand
or machine to the cloth. covering the
stitching and the narrow raw edge OF
the first seam.
Lace
There is so much inexpensive lace 10
be found, principally the French and
German Val limitations, that it is greatly
used to trim even the most inexpcnsivcly
planned garments: but the very cheap
qualities have little of beauty or service
to commend them; only the better
grades. which closely follow the real-lace
patterns, arc suitable for the really nice
clothing that one expends the time and
labor to make. For underwear it will
be infinitely better to use ruffleS and frills
of the material, which may or may not
be edged with narrow lace A very
good effect, without the use OF lace, is
obtained by making the frills OF fine
sheer lawn or dlmity, the contrast with
the nainsook, cambria or longcloth Of
which the garment is made greatly in
creaSing their decorative value
If simple frills seem falling into disuse,
1T IS because the art of preparing them
propcrly-strokIng the gathers, it used to
be called-is practically a lost art, get
without this neat stroking the frIls lose
greatly IN value and Importance. A
small section of a frill, gathered and
stroked. is shown at illustration III.
The gathering is done in the usual
manner, with what is called tho uneven
runnlng-s stitch. the stitch on the under
side being only half the length OF that
on the upper, though all the stitches on
either side must be alike in length Do
not use thread that is too long; if the
gathered edge when finished is to be
more than threc-quarters OF a yard long,
1t is better to use two threads and divide
the ruff1e into halves. marking at each
division with colorcd thread: divide
and mark the edge TO which the ruffla
is to be applied in the same manner.
After the edge is gathered, draw the
thread out at the lcft-hand side OF the
gathers, drawing the edges up very full:
run in pin pcrpendicularly into the
left-hand end OF the ruffle and wind the
drawn-out thread around 1t under the
head and the point in the form OF the
figure 8 Use a coarse needle to stroke,
and place it in the fold Of each stitch,
laying 4 little plat toward the left and
holding it under the thumb OF the left
hand
Gathering d Ru6ie
Do not scratch the material with the
needle: use it only to stroke each plalt
gently into place. After the gathers are
stroked. remove the pin at the end and
distribute them evenly over the length
of thread. A ruffle gathered in this way
must be attached IN a manner that will
conceal the raw edge. II only seam al
lowance is provided, lay the right side
OF the frill against the right side of the
garment to which it is TO be attached,
with the seam edges even: haste the
scam, then lay over the frill a narrow
piece of the material to serve as a fac
ing and include its edge in the same
scam and stitch it Turn the facing
over on the inside of the garment: turn
under the edge and hem it. This finish
IS sometimes called false hem,
At illustration " is shown the method
Of insettIng the frill in regulation hem.
Cut the hem along its lower fold edge.
seam the frill to this edge, then turn
under the lower edge OF the underfold
of the hem and hem it, either BY hand or
machine, TO cover the raw edges of the
seam.
There is another method Of gathering
ruffie that was commonly employed by
the expert necdlcworkers OF our grand
mothers day. and that is the rolled and
whipped ruifle shown at illustration v.
There is little knack 10 the rolling.
which, however, may be readily acquired,
and the stitch is regular overcastinc-
stitch taken at regular distances over the
rolled edge.
The rolling is begun at the right hand
side by rolling over the corner, and once
started is easily continued across. being
done by the thumb and finger Of the left
hand and kept only far enough ahead of
the whipping to have the edge properly
prepared for each stitch, These gathers
require no stroking, as the drawing up
of the thread folds each stitch into its
proper place, There is no raw edge to
be disposed OF when i whipped rufile 10
TO be attached to 4 garment. The rufflc
is measured, the fulncss distributed
evenly over the desired space, then hold
ing the whipped edge of the ruffle even
with the edge TO which it is to be ap-
piled, second row Of overland stitches
is made through both.
AR6: s. 5@=1