The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1909-06-24

fHoT'OR-JZE7GH ZTIHT CZNzSS
HOLIy1;4lrsG
The perils encountered and precau-
tons necessary TO be taken In climb
ing the Alps is given in an interesting
letter from a correspondent, which fol
lows:
A few days ago we started for a
mild winter climb up the Gemmi pass
"A mere walk in the summer--at 6
a. m. on a calm. warm morning. Be
fore We were half way up snow came
on. and long before We reached the
Schwarrenbach we we're battling with
a ferocious blizzard. We were glad
TO get off that mountain by six o'clock
in the evening, descending the last
with avalanches laundering all
around us.
tell this simple tale as casual IL
lustration OF the perils of winter climb
ing, Since that day Switzerland has
been swept by an extraordinary storm
from the south, almost unprecedented
at this time OF the year, costing at
least one very precious life and en-
dangering the existence of many 9TH
ers. 1t is the reminder of the great
mountains that they are not To be
trifed with in winter. Before more
lives are lost perhaps II may be as
well to ask what are the peculiar con-
ditions and perils of this winter climb
ing that promises to become the new
est development of an honorable
sport.
The extraordinary stiffness and
clearness that prevail in the Alps for
days together during the winter are
very likely to lull the average climber
into dangerous trustfulness. The
silence of the frozen streams produces
sense of peace that contrasts danger
ously with the noisy vitality of the
spring and summer During these
days of settled frost the avalanches
are dumb, the waterfalls hang in
waves of frozen whiteness; the ice
falls of the great glaciers stand mo-
tionless. The deep blue of the sap
phire sky behind the great ranges of
white mountains-for nearly all the
mountains are white in winter--pro-
duces sense of great confidence. The
old warnings against climbing the Alps
In winter seem childish panic IF only
one could get such conditions in sum-
mer!" is the inevitable cry. This is
| just what we have been waiting for
all our lives!"
But there are one or two considera-
tions on the other side, not always
dwelt upon by the guides, who are per
haps naturally anxious TO add a sec
ond season TO their first. One is the
fact that this clear and beautiful
weather, this weather of radiant sun
shine and pellucid skies, is certain al
due intervals, generally of a fortnight
at time TO be interrupted by sud
den and violent snowstorms. The only
security against these is to watch the
barometer closely, and never TO clint
with falling giass. The advent OF
these storms is generally recorded
very promptly and accurately by oul
faithful friend; but 1t takes some cour
age TO obey his warnings and give NJ
planned expedition,
The second is that whatever condi
tions impede climbing in the summer
they impede II tenfold in winter. TAX,
snow, n source of great fatigue at thu
best In the summer you will not b,
troubled with snow until you hav,
} reached 5000 feet. In the winter yol
begin with snow at 1000 or 5000 feet
and continue with snow till the end
Ski-running may and does do grea
deal to modify the fatigue OF these cor
ditions But skis cannot abate tn
great cold which so much snow bring.
or remove the dangers of cold on tn
, mountains.
No true mountaineer laughs at fros
bite. II is the most terrible of IN
mountain perils, the most rapid In II
assaults, the most painful In its ccI
sequences, the most difficult TO guar
against. But there are one or tw
. rules which can be easily followed an
understood. Frost-bite prefers to a
tack the extremities. where the pow
er of the heart is weakest. Somethin
) can be done, therefore, by doublin
the gloves and stockings. More ca
! be done. perhaps, by resisting th
temptation to stand or sit In soft snoy