The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1909-08-18

Jerusalem. y The Turkish empire
of to-day is, especially in its official
operations, a different empire from
what it was three months ago. In
some respects it is a different empire
so far as the lives of the people are
f%concerned. The marvellous revolution
OF a month ago, which secured the
elevation of the fifth Mohammed to
the Ottoman throne, is already pro-
ducing noticeable results.
The year-old Constitution was re-
sponsible for a marked broadening OF
the official vision of Turkish authori-
ties, but the most remarkable changes
have come to pass since the deposit
ton of Abdul Hamid.
1t is no such trying task to-day to
enter the country as it has been con-
sidered to be since the memory OF
man runneth. The day of discourtesy
and discomfort and unnecessary scru-
tiny at the ports of call has evidently
passed. The writer has embarked
and disembarked no fewer than i've
times within the past three weeks at
the principal ports of Palestine, Jaffa,
Haifa and Beirut without experience
ing any more trouble with customs Of
ficers than is usual in any European
port. A friend who has been conduct
ing parties from the States to Pales-
tine for fifteen years asserts that 1t
has never been so easy to go and
come as now. Steamship agents tell
the same story. 1t is the testimony
of the average man n questions as
one wanders through the land. Fifty
times at least different men have said,
at is not like it used to be-" To be
sure, If one does not care to have his
baggage opened he may, even now,
secure immunity ~ the payment of
~backsheesh." But it does not mat
ter much whether or not one offers a
gift" At Jaffa the writer kept his
gift" to himself. The customs agent
very politely asked that the baggage
be opened, and after a very courteous
examination passed it. The trouble
was mil" 1t was not necessary even
to produce a passport.
The freedom of the press is some
thing heretofore unknown. The Ia
tive papers are saying very nearly, if
not quite, just what they think on the
political problems which perplex the
empire and which mean so much to
millions of the subjects of the Sultan.
Only the other day an editorial in a
Beirut paper, published in French,
criticised the lassitude and incapacity
OF the local municipal authorities as
stringently as New York dailies die
tate to the Mayor. They even dared
to suggest among other things that
the city fathers should keep horses
from feeding on the already made
quate sidewalks of Beirut, and that
the multitude of wild-running, noisy
dogs should be exercised. These sug-
gestions in answer to the statement
of the city government that a city can
not be transformed without money.
Only those who are aware of the ina
lienable rights Of Palestinian dogs
and horses and donkeys a appre-
ciate the audacity of these proposals.
Humorously illustrative this is of an
other point of view that has hereto
fore had short shrift. Seriously, re-
form is in the air.
If it is easier to enter and leave the
country than it was, it is also easier
to move through Palestine, particu-
larly, than heretofore. To go across
Jordan or to such a place as Petra it
was formerly necessary to ask for a
permit, which as often as not was re-
fused. To go without leave meant a
fine. Those who wanted to go fire.
quently went first and accounted for
the violation of the law afterward.
Then they paid a fine and the incident
was closed. To-day such permits are
unnecessary.
Heretofore a traveller at Haifa, Naz-
areth, Tiberias, Damascus and Baal-
bek has been under the strictest sur
v~eillance. 1t has been necessary to
report to the local police authorities
with ones papers at once. Fees were
collected for registration, and gratui-
ties were always cheerfully received.
Failure to report meant that a more
or less indignant official would call
upon the careless traveller at his (the
o~ficer's) earliest convenience. All
that is changed; no longer are Mes
sieurs les voyageurs," as the French
call the tourists, followed up like
crooks. At Baalbek, for example, a
courteous. CHEEKY official put a smil-
ing face through the open window of
the compartment and asked the trav-
eler for a sight Of his passport and a
simple statement of whence he came
and whittier travelling.
There are more unveiled women in
Palestine than heretofore. Even now