Bryan daily eagle and pilot. [volume] (Bryan, Tex.) 1909-1918, 1909-10-25

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pruned the whole year around. but the
time when the work can be most cas-
ny done commences with the drop
ping OF the leaves In the fall and ends
with the appearance OF the new
growth In spring. writes Gerhard Koi.
liss In Garden Magazine. Tools for
pruning season pruning scissors.
pruning saw. knife. and. for tall trees.
the long handled pruning hook-must
be kept sharp and the scissors and
hook also fabricated. Besides these
tools Il 10 desirable 20 have a three
legged steplsdder. which IL especially
constructed for orchard use.
Before starting TO prune. consider
what you are going 10 do. Take a
good look az the tree about TO be
pruned and make your plans. The
actual work commences ON the
ground. Water shoots s~pringing from
the ground should not be cut on mere
iy on the level with the grounds sur
fsee-eig down to the origin Of them
aud cas close TO the root OF stem. or
wherever they may spring from. This
done, remose or mend all broken
branches. Always aim To close up
empty spaces caused by broken
limbs. You may do this by bending
and tying certain limbs. or by en-
e~ouraging the growth OF neighboring
branches.
Walk around the tree and short.
ca last years growth on the lower
branches about one-third. always aim.
INK toward giving a circular shape TO
the whole tree. Take the step ladder
snd again 70 around the tree. trim
iu.nl last years growth higher UP but
somewhat shorter than on the lower
branches. Sc continue 10 the top
OF the tree. going around IL several
times until. when finished. the tree
presents an almost globular shape.
the top branches being shortened TO
less than a quarter OF their previous
years growth. Never attempt to a y
time by pruning the entire height OF
Tho tree on one side: II you do this
you will certainly give the tree an
ugly shape. The higher up you go.
the oftener viii II be necessary to
out. Of two or three ~bfanchlets.
one OF Y q two. Ia this case cut out
the weaker oEes or those growing TO
the inside OF the tree. provided they
are not necessary to MI empty spaces.
This Is the pruning OF nm orchard
tree, which has been attended to reg
ularly every year. II Is more difficult
70 prune n tree which has been neg.
lected for two or more years. and It
Is very dihacult TO bring an unshapely
tres to a presentable appearance.
Trees allowed to grow nd libitum Cor
NO or more years viii sometimes
need heavy cutting back. The more
struggling and irregular the growth
aud the more slender aud numerous
the branches, the more heavily the
tree has TO be pruned.
On stone fruit trees Il Is not advis-
able to cut back 10 the cid wood and
this should never be done except In /
The case Of a broken limb. n such IL
the case. be sure the wound il closed
with paint. wax or tar. On apples or
pears you may. without injury 10 the
tree tprpyided u IL attended to regu-
larly afterwsrdl. cut OF the growth
of several seasons. but always see
that you cut above dormant buds. Dor
mani buds. situated nj ;he base OF
each years growth. are often hardly
noticeable. Above them fruit buds
may have formed very c~onspicuousiy.
II seems q pity to cut them away. but
what good would they do! They will
only produces small fruit. or. by the
amount Of the fruit produced. will
break the branches which are too
weak to support the weight.
Confronted with a tree out OF shape
of too thick a growth. rcmove FIRST
the branches growing 10 the inside
and even TO the opposite side OF the
tree. unless by removing them you
cause on open space. hut such
branch. having been allowed 10 grow
from one side OF a tree TO the other,
and which could not be dispensed with
this year. ought to be treated In a
way TO allow its removal In a sue
ceeding year; that Is. the branches
must be trimmed In order TO allow the
growth IL the neighbosing branches
to close In and gradually nh the space
new taken up BY this peryerse one,