The San Francisco call., 1909-03-28
The Seasons HEM5r@i@erieS

braids basted over muslin pattern
and sewed together by hand and its
function is. like theirs. mainly for
household articles.
But the making Of cIuny lace has
never become a universal fad like the
making of these other Iaces. No doubt
the reason for this is that unless the
proper bratds are used and the work is
done In exactly the right way the re-
suits are highly unsatisfactory But
when 1t is made of the rich linen
braids. and the work is well done. it
is more artistic and attractive than any
of the other braid laees.
Cluny is fairly popular at present and
is the lace most used for dOilies. CENTER
pieces and table covers.
The Craftsman embroideries are now
much In evidence for draperies. sofa
pillows and other household furnish
ings The designs are strictly cOnven-
ttonal. large and rather formal and
are executed in fiat or padded satin
stitch in the oriental coIOrs, greenish
blues, golden browns and greens. and
terra cottas. with almost always a
narrow outline of black surrounding
the forms. The materials used are
Craftsman cloth or Russian crashes,
burlaps and linens.
Long table scarfs or stringers.
oblOng mission pillows. portierss and
couch covers all are done in this styIe
year for waists and sofa pillows. and
sometimes for parasOIs. Coronation
braid is combined with embroiderv
long and short stitch or outlining. to
obtain heavy effect without much
work, and soutache braid is also used.
For bedroom furnishings figured ere
tonnes IN pretty designs and coIorfngs
have taken the place of the white en-
broidered sets placed over colOrs. The
dresser and table scarfs. curtains and
even the shirtwaist BOXES in my Iadv's
bedroom. all are made of these pretty
materials. Wallachian embroidery. the
work consisting entirely of buttOnhole
stitch. which has been very popular for
two seasons past, is going out. Tt
never was entirely successful except In
occasional instances The work was
often too heavy for the material on
which it was executed and the designs
were frequently clumsy. Then. too
the colors in which some embrofderers
saw fit to carry out the work were
often atrocious. so II Is not strange
that this method of embroidery has
fallen into disfavOr. However. some or
the work at its best. executed in white
linen thread on firm white linen and
with carefully selected designs. has a
character and charm that are unde-
niable.
This is not only true OF WaNachian
work; poor execution and the employ
ment OF improper materials have
brought many methods Of embroidery
into disrepute which. i'm their best es-
tate, were worthy of the most enthusi-
astic admiration In fact to the real
lover of fine needlework no style OF
embroidery is quite so much valued
while IL Is being used and misused in
the height of its popularity as when the
wave has passed. and IL can be restored
to its proper place in the technique
.xF !.
the other methods when It is most suit
able.
A great deal of hand embroidery is
being used on the gowns this summer;
this is generally in floss or twisted silk
OF the same color as the garment. or
harmOnizing closely with It. The work
IS in satin stitch and as rule is done
fiatly. without padding,
Large and small panels and landings
of embroidery are used on the most ex-
Guisite OF the gowns and suits often
with rather spreading and sparse
effect although occasionally the work
is quite heavy and elaborate.
Childrens garments are always a
fair field for the exercise OF the en-
broiderer's needle. and this season the
clothes are being constructed on such
straight ard simple lines that little
hand work Is almost a necessity IN or
der TO save them from excessive plain
ness. simple button hOled ScallOpS are
often very effective. and large or small
embroidered dots are also excellent.
Conventional designs or tiny. wander
ing sprays may be the proper decora-
tfons for the space to be considered.
Whatever the work it should be sim
pie and not too much should be used.
as elaboration is out OF place upOn
cnildren's garments. JabOts and tabs
and collars Ornamented with hand en-
oroidery are very popular at present
The Dutch collars naturally have first
place, as they are the newest. but turn
over and stock collars are also being
worn and embroidered. The neckwear
is, as a general thing. white this sea
son. although sometimes for use with
eoiored waists a little color is intW
duced. such as the delft blues or ~
cate rose and green or lavender or
any OF the other pale shades OF the sea
son. shirt waists are being embroidered
mainly in padded French and evelat
work on white Sometimes. IN these
also, little pale color is used. but not