davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1909-03-28
IRAIDED CLOTH ooWNA
4aison Riva
Photo b Rsutlinees

fronts that they show the front of the
gown over which they are worn. thus
permitting the embroidery or braiding
down the front of the gown to be seen
to advantage. Braiding still contin-
ues to be a fashionable trimming for
this style Of gown. and the more elab-
crate the design and the finer the
workmanship. the more desirable IL 1t
considered. 1t is difficult for even
the initiated to tell at first glance
whether the braiding is done by hand
or machine. to such a marvellous de-
gree of perfection has machine work
attained. but the fastidious woman de-
clares she instinctively feels the diff
ference and would rather have a small
er amount of trimming and have it
hand work.
Fascinating in the extreme are the
gowns of liberty satin and the satin
finish cloth that this season owe their
| charm to the graceful lines and draped
effects. II the too severe lines Of the
Empire and princess are not becoming.
there is no reason why the draped
styles should not be chosen. and in
truth there are many who insist the
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1909-03-28

draped gowns are far smarter They
are harder to make, they are certainly
newer. and as a rule they are more be-
coming. SO the inference can be drawn
that the style is one to be chosen II
becoming. There Is q touch Of the
theatrical In the draped black satin
princess cow that shows one-half OF
the waist in white or some color under
lace, but it is not glaringly conspicu-
Gus. merely effectivee. and II II IL de-
sired to modify the original model it
can easily be accomplished. for instead
OF the contrast the same material can
be used. only draped in folds that Do
not follow the same lines. In colors
and made in cloth care must be taken.
In copying this design or the result
will not be satisfactory. Lace over
satin the same shade will be found far
better than IL over white or II half Of
the waist be OF contrasting color. but
the gown is not to be attempted too
rashly under any circumstances. for.
has much about II that reveals the
hand of the master and is an excellent
example Of the subtIety Of dress
overskirt Here Again.
Was there ever q season when -
many and such diverse styles were exc
hibited? Empire. princess. several
plain and draped effects. one and all
are eminently fashionable while the
| overskirt is unquestionably with us
again. The sheer double skirt of chit.
fon lace or sau1e yelling. the materi-
! al Of the underskirt. has been popular
for some time in the evening gowns,
and now the double skirt is To be mo-
ticed on many Of the newest gowns.
petticoats having. II Is said. been ban
ished. This double skirt fashion
seems in the nature Of a compromise. .
protest against the too revealing styles.
With the overskirt or tunic there
must of necessity be the underskirt.
which has around the foot q band Of
the material. sometimes merely Z fac
ing. Over this falls the sec1a Id skirt.
which may be finished With q deep
fringe or with only a blind hem. the
fiat band of the embroidery or lace
1 or binding. SO popular fashion this
spring, and that goes down the front
of the gown. ends with the overskirt
and. as II were. emphasizes the lenghth
or lack OF length. The width Of the
facing on the underskirt depends en-
tirely upon the length OF the upper.
As can readily be understood. IT In es-
sential that when the upper skirt -
drawn back only the same material
1 must show below IL. The foundation
of the underskirt il OF some soft. cling
ing silk. SO as not to give any more
fuilness around the hips than is neces-
| sary. bias band or fold Is some.
| times to be noticed as finish to the
| second skirt. but the plain finish r. for
the moment preferred There ere NO
! cast iron rules anent II. however. but
then there are no cast iron rulees in
dress A slender 0gure. long lines
and originality are desirable, but to
he becomingiy sowned b the oaly Doo-
tive obligation. -
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1909-03-28

much SO as-the fashionable skirt for
more elaborate costume. The coat
is of little more than hip length and
is sensi-fitting, with suggestion of
the Norfolk jacket in the way it is
fitted and fastened in the front. al
though it is not in reality Norfolk
jacket. Tweed of fairly heavy quail
ity, rough serge and cheviot are used
for this costume. and it is perhaps
somewhat smarter If skirt and coat
are not OF the same material. the
skirt being of mixed cloth or striped
material. while the coat OF the same
color is plain. or vice versa.
The hat worn with this costume is
chic felt or straw toque trimmed
with two quilts and a chou of light
velvet or satin. 1t is an admirable
shape for walking hat, as it has no
brim to catch the wind. and yet its
lines are soft. full and becoming. Now
adays when walking is such a general
recreation and when all outdoor di-
versions are SO fashionable and taken
seriously 1t is quite necessary for ev-
cry woman to have a walking cos
tune which is quite distinctive from
her tailored suit for usual morning
wear Something shade more rough
and ready. or, one might say, sporty
is required.
While many of the new tailor suits
are provided with short walking
skirts to please the woman who has
become welded to this conveniently
clearing garment. there are others
made into trailing skirts. or skirts
! that have q very decided dip in the
| back. The model herewith is ono-Q1
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1909-03-28
FASHIONS

After the severity of the seasons
skirts it is rather interesting to watch
few innovations creep in.
The dominant one just now is pam
ell of tiny thread tucks that runs
around the hips. starting little high
at the back and swooping down to q
point above the knees.
This idea has been carried out on
soft messaline afternoon gowns. An
especial one is OF pewter gray with
long scanty skirt that falls in admir-
able folds around the feet
The tucks are the only trimming.
The little bodice which IN Joined to
the skirt about three inches above
waist line is made entirely OF crochet
silk that Ii not unlike mans knitted
cravat-
This Is new touch. by the way. on
smart gowns. bat not every woman
can adopt IL
In and ont Of the gray silk threads
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1909-03-28

= there ever . time when the ques-
ton Of dress is not all absorbing? In
Olden days winter and summer outfits
demanded earnest thought and consid-
GRAFTON for days and weeks, but that
was only twice in the twelve-month
Now spring and autumn fashions have
% be reckoned with, and incidentally
aomo women cannot resist buying all
the year round, whenever they see a
hat or gown that pleases their fancy.
In order to be comfortably, not to
ray smartly. gowned, 1t is essential
that there shall be planned gowns for
the different seasons of the year. and
textures and styles that would not only
look we'll but be appropriate in warm
weather would be most unsuitable and
In truth, impossible on cold days.
There has been great change of late,
It is true, in the more elaborate gowns
ahat can be worn summer or winter. in
GUNNER without wrap and in winter
under long wrap There are the aft
ern0on reception gowns. the smart lit
tie simple frocks, as they are termed
for the house, and also the theatre and
restaurant gowns, which are on virtu-
ally the same lines no matter what the
season
Certain materials are considered alb
solutely impossible worn out of sea-
son. Velvet gowns in summers are
taboo. and with reason. while pongee,
rajah and fou1ard silks worn in winter,
appropriate. and there are any number
II other most attractive materials that
are appropriate to the hot weather but
are unsuitable even for the house in
winter. The first costume for the
spring season is the tailor made street
gown of lighter weight cloth, serge or
cheviot, than is made up for the win
ter, and this is. as rule, on severely
plain lines. with little or no trimming.
Il is. in fact, as has before been said,
simply q practical. general wear. morn
ing costume that can be worn in good
or bad weather. Although strict rules
Of dress require there shall be no orna-
mentation. the difficulty is solved by
the facing OF revere and collar. either
with satin the color Of the material OF
by wearing second revere or turn.
down collar Of white, silk. satin or lin
en- This Is one Of the individual dis
tinctive touches that woman adds to
a model that she chooses on account
of It's lines and then modifies so that
II shall be becoming.
Elaborate Street Gowns.
Extremely useful and very smart
this season are the more elaborate
street gowns made with skirt. coat anG
waist to match. These are also In thu
tailor order, In so far that they give
the effect OF rather severe lines, but
there Is no limit placed on the amoun
Of trimming weight cloth In al
the new weaves. many of which lool
% like satin it is difficult to distin
gulsh what is the material at frs
glance. Then the serges. the fin
cords and the cashmere de sole are al
20 In favor. and all are extremely vel
adpted to the present styles Of dress
which so sharply define the figure. !
10 often discouraging and mistifyini
whom copy OF model gown looks alb
solutely unlike the original. a clos
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1909-03-28

little nosegays. are combined with
folds of silk or bands of velvet rib
bon. 1t requires several OF these to
trim large hat effectively. and when
heavy fruits or flowers are used they
are apt to prove a burden to the wear
err
Wings and quilts are not much worn
just now, but ostrich feathers are al
ways in good style. and exquisite clus-
tiers of them adorn nearly all the
handsomest dress hats.
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1909-03-28

which the costume will be put. If it is
to wear for shopping, for the train and
general utility, the trimming should
be rather simple. while afternoon lin
ems and silks will be profusely decor
ated with braiding and embroidery in
self tones. 49,
The three-quarter length coat is
seen almost entirely, as it combines
best with the slim. straight skirts. and
besides. coat coming about to the
knee line is invariably more graceful
and more becoming than a shorter
coat Dressy coats are much trimmed,
some of the smartest styles showing
graduated panels in the back and
front Even the sides frequently
show this kind of treatment
Now and then a large picture hat
stands out wildly among the mass of
exaggerated bucket and mushroom
shapes, which are sure to be overdone
before the season is advanced and
thus make the flat. round hat Of mod
crate sized brim all the more desira-
BILE Many OF these becoming spring
hats have light straw on the upper
side Of the brim and an entire crown
of it. while the underneath side of the
brim and an entire crown OF 1T. while
the underneath side of the brim Is
faced with black silk or maline or the
same material in shade to match the
gown.
For trimming q variety Of ideas are
followed out. either to give soft, pic
turesQGe effect or to reproduce some
Of the quaint fashions of a century
ago. Tixht punches OF flowers, Hk1
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1909-03-28

cess gowns-or it might be less confus-
ing to call them one piece gowns-are
extremely effective and graceful in the
new fabrics for spring, and are in truth
so complete in themselves that the coat
is really not essential excepting for
the cool days that are always be in
cluded in the spring season. The
coats are more shapeless than ever, ex-
tremely straight in line, giving as
much as possible the sandwich man.
appearance. They are SO cut in the
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1909-03-28

square and shapeless. To hang straight
widths of material from below band
of embroidery or trimming laid flat
across the bust Is not the correst rem
dering of the design. but, unfortunate
ly, there are hundreds of women who
consider they are following out the
fashion most vigorously when they at
tire themselves in such wise.
The carefully fitted skirt, that indi-
Gates rather than defines the lines of
the figure and falls from below a jack
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1909-03-28

ct effect or band of embroidery, gives
the straight lines apparently, but in
reality is often more on the circular
or bias lines. PROFESSIONALLY the ex-
aggeratedly high waist line is going
out of fashion. At the same time, the
properly cut and hung gowns all have
the waist much higher than last year.
while few, If any. gowns are marred
by the broad belts that were so short
time ago made use of in order to gain
the desired short wasted effest. Prin-
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1909-03-28

this style and will be much favored
for all kinds of materials. including
light weight broadcloths, linens and
silks.
Skirts are rather plain except for
The Richmond palladium and sun-telegram. [volume] (Richmond, Ind.) 1907-1939, 1909-03-28
FASHION DETAILS EVERY WOMAN SHOULD KNOW

: In figure No. 1 is shown a walking
costume that is suitable for tramping
in the country and for city pedestrian
ism as well. The skirt is short and
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1909-06-29
FIND STOCKYARDS
IN BAD CONDITION

Portland.-Evldence produced by
the government during the past two
days in the prosecution of the South
ern Pacific for violations Of the 28-
hour law have disclosed startling
methods used in the transportation
and care of stock shipments.
1--WE have covered" said Assistant
United States District Attorney ]. r.
wyatt today, the length of the COM
pany's lines in Oregon We have
found that in great many instances
the stock was kept on the road be-
yond the limit fixed by law, without
food or water or rest. The pens have
been kept in deplorable condition.
Mud, sometimes of dangerous depth,
constituted a floor for the enclosures.
Food thrown to animals sank down
out Of sight in the filth or was so be-
fouled that horses or cattle would not
eat It. Evident evasions of the law
have been apparent.
1--WE can find no evidence that any
effort was made to better these de-
plorable conditions until the govern
ment prosecutions were commenced,
Mr.. Wyatt continued. "Now all along
the line pens are being built along
humanitarian lines. Care is being
taken that stock shall not be kept on
the road beyond fixed limit with
out food or rest.
"The governments prosecution OF
the railroads in endeavoring to Sc
cure an enforcement of these laws,
which were constructed to protect
shippers, will and is leading to a
revolution in transportation methods.
The cases tried in court may drag on
and on. because of appeals, but the
main object of correcting existing
evils Is being attained and we feel
very much satisfied"
Government prosecution of the
Southern Pacific in case closed and
given to the jury today at noon
charged the railroad company with
having allowed the stock pens at
Ashland to remain in condition un-
tit for use because of the mud and
filth with which the ground was
covered. Yet, said witnesses, stock
of various kinds was kept continually
in these pens while en- route into or
out of Oregon. Attorneys ]. E. Fen
ton and Ben C. Dey represented the
railroad. Assistant District Attorneys
Evans and Wyatt fought the case for
the government.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1909-06-29
NATIONAL CONFERENCE
OF SOCIOLOGISTS BEGINS

Boston, June 29.-Opening with a
session this evening, the third annual
American Sociological conference will
be held at Sycamore Beach tomor-
row and Thursday.
In accordance with the custom of
the conference, the set speeches are
limited in number in order to give
freedom to every member of the
conference for practical discussion of
every topic.
The following topics have been Sc
lected: 1.-THE Social Progress of the
Past Year" by Paul U. Kellogg; "The
Whole Worlds Social Unrest" by
William T. Ellis, of Philadelphia,
journalist, who recently made a trip
around the world, and whose writ
ings on religious topics appear week.
ly in The Herald; "The Negro in a
Democracy" by Ray Stannard Ba-
ker; "How Industrial Education VIII
Bring Social Reconstruction" by
Robert A. Woods, head of the South
End House, Boston; "The Cost of
Crowdlng Women Workers." by Mrs.
Raymond Robine 1.-THE Social Mes
sage of the Hebrew Prophets" by
Rabbi stephen S. Wise, Phi. D., Of
New York; "The Transition from the
present to a Cooperative Society,"" by
Prof. Walter Raushenbusch, D. D.,
of Rochester Theological Seminary.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1909-06-29

Portland June 2S.-A large band
of cattle was received here this NOR
ming, the herd driven in the corals
numbering All head. 1t is the largest
receipt of cattle for several days and
will keep business brisk for some lit
tic time. The animals will be weigh
ed this afternoon.
The entire band is made up OF steers
in very good condition and it was
reported this morning that the whole
lot might be shipped to Puget sound,
where It Is believed buyer has al
ready been found for them.
Six carloads of the steers came from
Willis. Cal, and the others are from
willamette valley points. The Cali
fornia bunch was shipped by Mitchell
the cattleman, who ships both from
Willis and Gazelle. 1t Is one of the
largest lots sent here by the Califor-
MIA man for some little time.
No sheep were received today. The
hogs came in good shape and now Is
said to be a good time to ship, as the
animals bring good prices. One lot
sold this morning at the rate OF $40
and another brought S7S5, which pri-
ces net growers good profits, accord
ing to the usual way of calculating
earnings on hogs.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1909-06-29
HOW TO GROW FAT.
A Lazy Stomach the Cause OF Thin
ness Nine Times I'm Ten.

A Lazy Stomach the Cause OF Thin-
ness Nine Times In Ten.
II YOU are thin or lean, have
scrawny arms and neck, you can't
grow fat unless your food properly
dlgests.
People take on flesh in proportion
to the nutritious matter when the
organs OF digestion absorb and pass
into the blood.
Just as long as this nutritious mat
ter passes along without being ao-
sorbed. just SO long will you remain
thin. i,
Perhaps your stomach, bowels ana
liver need tonic. If your digestion
Is not perfect, Mi-o-na tablets VIII
put 1t right at once.
Mi-o-na will cure indigestion ana
every conceivable ailment Of the
stomach promptly. It cures by build
ing and tonng up, and not by en-
couraglng a tired stomach to con-
tinue its shiftless and health destroy
Ing habits. It promptly drives away
sour stomach, belching Of gas, heavi-
ness after eating.
Tallman & Co. sell Mi-o-na for oo
cents a large box, and guarantee II
to cure Indigestion, sea and car sick
ness. vomiting of pregnancy and all
stomach diseases and distress, OF
money back.
Mi-o-na Is sold by leading drug
gists everywhere.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1909-06-29
NOTICE.

Sealed proposals will be received
up to o'clock p. m. Tuesday, July
6. 1909, for furnishing school district
No. 16, Umatilla county, Oregon,
with
100 cords of red fir wood in four
foot lengths, same to be cut from
green body timber and to be sea-
soned; and
125 tons of lump coal. each bidder
to specify the kind of coal to be sup
piled.
The board of directors reserves the
right to reject any and all bids.
Said fuel to be delivered at the
different schools as directed by the
city superintendent of schools.
Address all bids to the undersigned
and endorse the envelope, Proposals
for Furnishing Fuel"
LOT LIVERMORE,
Clerk OF School District No. 16.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1909-06-29
PACKERS REFUSE TO BE
INSPECTED BY GOVERNMENT

Chicago.--City inspectors today re-
ported 30 the health commissioners
the result Of their Investigations into
conditions governing the supply OF
meat sold in Chicago and Illinois.
At every packing house they were
refused admission. The existing laws
provide for one inspection by the fed
eral government to prevent interstate
commerce in diseased and unfit meats.
on the police OF the city and state
the officials must depend for action
against the sale OF infected meats
The inspectors report that their eff
forts were rendered ineffective by the
refusal of the packers to permit them
to enter their plants. The inspectors
declare that state authorities are as
helpless with respect to preventive
measures.
Inspector Foster reports that as
city inspectors cannot enter the yards
they are forced to remain outside and
follow the meat wagons as they leave.
When the meat Is on the wagons 1t Is
regarded as technically delivered" to
the small dealer. Upon him falls the
loss of any condemnations by the city.
He must either bear the loss without
complaint or have his supply of meat
cut off.
The total amount condemned last
year by the government inspectors IN
the packing plants was 1,SS2,2l4
pounds. A bill to provide city inspec-
ton is being prepared by an attorney
Of the retail dealers.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1909-06-29
KINDNESS TO OLD
SOLDIER BRINGS $4,000

Burlington, N J.-Bread cast upon
the water Is years ago in the shape
of kindness to a civil war veteran
has returned to Joseph r. Cheesman
of this city in the unexpected form of
bequest of $4,000.
A letter from a New York lawyer
brought the news to Cheesman that
Harry Green, an old pensioner, in a
New York suburb, had died, and in
token of his appreciation OF kindness
which Cheesman had forgotten had
willed him the money.
Green was very deaf. When he
was employed in Camden factory as
shoecutter 15 years ago Cheesman
was a fellow employe. Because of his
deafness Green had few companions
Cheesman, however, communicated
with him through the medium OF
written notes, and friendship soor
sprang up between the veteran and
the young man.
"I'll yeward you some day for youl
| kindness" Cheesman says Green tolC
him when they separated.
East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1909-06-29
Men Past Fifty In Danger.

Men past middle life have found
comfort and relief in Foley's Kidney
Remedy, especially for enlarged pros
tate glands, which is very common
among older men. L. e. Morris, Dex-
ter, KY, writes: up to a year ago
my father suffered from kidney and
bladder trouble and several physicians
pronounced It enlargement of the
prostate glands and advised an oper-
alton. on account of his age We were
afraid he could not stand it and
recommended Foley's Kidney Remedy.
and the first bottle reliever him, and
after taking the second bottle he was
no longer troubled with this COM
plant" Koeppen Bros.