Evening star., 1909-05-16
FASHIONS AND FADS.

Belts should match the skirt.
Plumed hats are as popular as ever.
Black will play great part this season.
Contrasts in embroidery and bra!ding
are rare.
Eton or Dutch collars are more popular
than ever.
The newest parasols feature the but
! tonholed edge.
The collarless gown is gaining a great
popularity.
The fashionable seal contains but a
single letter.
Many of the fashionable long Jackets
have pockets.
The smartest stockings are embroidered
| in self tones.
Jet neck chains give chic touch to
the black gowns.
| MedalHons with a monogram adorn
some of the silk hosiery.
Pongee and rough silks in all colors
are very fashionable.
The smart cutaway styles will evident
ly conf inue through the GUNNER
Taffeta silk is back again. after many
months of enforced retirement
There will be many stone-gray hats
worn this spring by elderly men.
Colors are very beautiful, with pro-
fusion OF rich and delicate shadings.
The directoire tie. made Of crochet
lace. is pretty finish to the dressy
blouse.
Some OF the separate guimpes are tied
down with ribbons to the waist line.
The new Jacket is somewhat on the
Louis XVI style, but 1t is much smarter
vital contrasts do not exist, except
when black and colors are put together.
are all great favorites on the new hats.
Among the new shell hairpins one of
the favorite styles is broad triple
loop.
Designers are now doing their best to
get away from the familiar jumper ef-
feet.
The latest collar is of chiffon. the color
of the bodice, surmounting white yoke.
Chemfsettes OF fine batiste are worked
elaborately in soutache with sleeves to
match.
Nothing fixed. nothing that has a pre-
meditated look, is permitted about the
hair.
Among the tailored suits the coats are
not quite as long as they were last winter.
Some of the tilted hats are trimmed
only on the lower side. which is usually
the right.
skirtings are nearly all striped. which
adds to the long-lined effects Of the sea-
SON.
It seems probable that the taste for
soutache braid is to live for long while
yet.
Daggers of tortoise shell, studded with
diamonds. are among the most popular
hair ornaments.
The gored skirt with pleats let into
the side seams is one of the popular
models at present.
Hats with strings are very much the
rage. but they must be worn only with
very dressy costumes.
For hotel wear. at home or abroad,
the smartest evening frocks have bodices
high at the throat.
cuffs are seen on some Of the more ornate
afternoon gowns.
Coats with straight panel backs which
hang lower than the sides are still
coming out In smart models.
Long lines of buttons are still in great
favor, and many of them will be seen
on the latest models.
Insets of Irish crochet, whether large
or small, are a favorite trimming for
the blouse of cotton crepe.
For the sleeve coats or those having
the cap sleeves, lace banding Is often
seen on linen and pongee.
Among the new materials are the print
ed chiffons and the silk crepons-a sort
Of crepe de chine.
One marked departure seen on new
gown lately was a pointed girdle that
extended slightly below the waist.
A novelty is a little bunch Of fruit
wcrn IN front Of the jacket and matching
| the fruit worn on the hat
Often the pockets OF the new pongee
suits have the monogram OF the wearer
| embroidered in a contrasting color.
The prevailing long lines call into being
| a great many panels, and these are
| variously finished at the edges
| Most Of the embroidered designs are
large and sprawly, and are In the same
color as the material
TIE correct silhouette Is attained where
| al. the lines of the frock suggest ease
and looseness without fullness.
Some hand-embroidery Is q dainty
finish to the tight-fitting shirt waist
slccve which is cut pointed at the wrist
/ A little piece of real lace introduced
upon the high-necked evening bodice Is
| characteristic of the coming mode.
| The newest hatpins are OF enameled
| white metal in dull or bright Jet effect.
They come in bell. pear or spear shape.
| large or small.
/ A dress OF white is very pretty. trim
med with large pearl buttons or with
| checked or solid color bands, or lace or
embroidery insertion could be used.
| majority OF the coats are three
| quarter length but II shorter coat is
i more becoming 1t may be adopted. pro-
vided 1t does not disturb the line.
The Normandy cap. enlarged and made