davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13
sweatshops Abroad.

Shocking as are the conditions under
which the poor live. and work in this coun-
try, as they are revealed from time to time
by investigators, they fall short Of the
horrors pictured in Makers of our
Clothes" a book by Miss Clementine Black
and Mrs. Carl Meyer. The authors spent
months in the homes of the people, and
all their evidence, they say, is first hand.
Seven shillings, or $40, q week Of
seventy hours was found to be an average
rate Of pay among the workers investi-
gated. n there are many who get less.
One girl started as a "presser'' in a factory
at 2 shillings 6 pence a week, and had a
lot OF trouble to get an increase Of l
shilling a week. She earns this magni-
ficent wage while welding a heavy press
ing iron in a hot, Ill ventilated room for
seventy hours a week. Another girl man
ages TO pile up 6 shillings and a half about
S1.60) a week by finishing wAistcoats, and
is informed, when she asks for an increase
In pay, that II she is not content she can
80.
| All sorts OF petty exactions are practlsed
upon these poor people by the sweaters. -
They nave 20 pay for their machines and
cotton, and even have to pay for having
b~uttonholes made The following is q
typical case: The wife Of a dock laboreI
made very cheap waistcoats for &
sweater and r-eported-which seems
scarcely credible-that she could make one
in ~three-quarters OF an hour. In one weeE
she made thirty, and thereby earned Z
little over Il shillings 026S). But she had
to pay 4 shillings to the buttonhole maker
a shilling and a half for her machine anC
half a shilling for cotton, thus reducing
her scanty wage TO about $50.
Driven by extreme poverty and tn
hunger OF her children" the book says
'she works long hours when she can &c
work enough. but often she has no worl
TO do"
All through the tailoring trades the In
vestigators found falling wages. In man,
cases the rate OF pay had been reduces
more than half. 1t was discovered ais
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13
Marriage Customs In France.

III my hA
In France marriage is a family affair.
The parents OF both parties interest them
selves deeply. Family affection is stronger
in France than in England. AS an example,
an English mother, speaking Of her daugh-
ter's marriage, says: I'VE have lost our
daughter" A French woman, on the other
hand, tells her friends, We have gained a
son."
Marriage settlements are, In this country
confined to the wealthy classes. In France
they are as essential preliminary to every
marriage contract. Even the peasants save
carefully to dover their daughters, and will
on no account accept a son-in-law without
the s~trictest inquisition into his financial
standing. his prospects and his abilities
Similarly, the parents of a young French
mar who wishes to marry will satisfy
themselves about the prospects of their
~presumptive daughter-in-law, and also-a
point utterly neglected in Britain-about her
health.
French parents Of the middle classes are
far more careful about the bringing up Of
their daughters than is the case here.
However good her prospects, the French
girls education is on more practical lines
NAoAA AANN W NAN > 80 SHN AN
cooking and housekeeping as careful as
the English girl is taught music.
AS a consequence, the young bride steps
into her new house knowing exactly how
to market, how to manage her servants;
how, II necessary, to go into the kitchen
herself and prepare a tasty meal.
The French bride is incomparably less
extravagant that her British sister. Where
the latter requires 10 shillings a head for
weekly housekeeping, the former will man
age admirably on 10 francs.
The French woman does not regard her
husband as a mere money-making machine
and her house as a place merely to sleep in.
As soon as she is married she Is her hus-
bands partner in business as well as in
private life. She coniders it her duty to
make herself acquainted with every detail
of her husbands business.
No French husband would dream Of TAX
ing any important step without consulting
his wife, and her advice is often amazingly
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13

great fashion makers has his own pet
Ideas on the sleeve subject and has no in
tention of being bullied out Of his position.
We started out last fall with long, tight
sleeves, showing slight variations on gem
eral leg of mutton lines-a mutton leg,
shrunken at the top and clinging closely,
yet suggesting the old lines by it's tap
ering shape. A m~ousquetaire effect was
much in evidence too, first aid for the
makers who had been forced to part with
their beloved elbow sleeves and had not
yet formulated their ideas on long sleeves.
One still sees sleeves of this type, but
they are not important factors of the
sleeve situation. We have gone far beyond
that first vendure, ave broker out into
all sorts of revolutionary folds and fulnes-
ses and lengths.
The plain long sleeve moderately close
fitting and the close tucked sleeve are
still used. though the latter is almost in
evttably accompanied by some sort of over
sleeve or cap, but a glance at the sketches
on this page, all made from frocks for
which the famous houses OF Paris are re-
sponsible, will give some idea of the lati-
tude allowed In this matter of the sleeve.
In the first place it need not be long.
An elbow sleeve or a three-quarter sleeve
may be altogether correct, provided the
rest OF the gown is chic enough to stamp
1t indisputably OF this years vintage.
A short sleeve on a leftover frock and a
short sleeve on a new and distinctly modish
frock are two different things TO the eye
Of the beholder and the consciousness Of
the wearer. one is the badge Of necessity,
the other is independence. Vanity Of van
itiesl''
The short sleeve as a rule clings quite
closely to the arm, though 1t may be
draped, but even this is not imperative.
A Drecoll frock seen the other day had
a short sleeve frankly full and open at
the bottom. with soft frills OF creamy lace
falling from under it's edge, and sleeves
draped into large arm holes are by no
means out OF the running. A full sleeve
in very soft materials is held in at inter
walls from a point above the elbow to the
wrist by encircling satin cords.
An odd effect that has crept into some
OF the modish long sleeves is the introduc.
ton OF fullness just at the elbow, with 3
close fitting upper and lower arm. This
fullness is usually obtained by laying q
few horizontal plaits along the inside sean
at the elbow, and in soft material the full.
ness affords comfort in bending the arm
without looking bunglesome, while a sleev,
close fitting all the way down is sure t
mean discomfort in bending the arm. Al
upper sleeve not full. but easily fitted. 4
often Joined below the elbow TO a lonl
close lower sleeve or cuff. the fullness o
the upper part being shaped into the cuff
by little CORES OF plaits instead of beini
fulled In.
The close fitting transparent sleeve o
= tucked net or chiffon or striped net whicI
, gives an impression OF tucking, but is les
/ clumsy, is too convenient and too easil
, made to fan quickly from favor. and in
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13
what Women Are Doing.

~ nv btAhks
With more than 10000 trout, pickerel,
credit as an angler, Mrs. Marancy Strong,
81 years old, LAYS claim to being the cham
pion fisherwoman Of New England.
DR.. Louisa Martindale, a factory inspec-
tor in Ireland, is to be one of the speakers
at the international Council Of Women at
Toronto June 1921. Her topic is The Child
in Industries"
Mrs. Nancy M. Johnson Of Washington
was the first person to take out a patent
Tor an ice cream freezer. She was the
wife of a naval officer. She took out the
patent In 1S43 and sold the rights for S41. 500.
Miss Mary L.. Phillips has Just won the
highest honors Of the year, the university
medal, at the California state university.
Miss Almlra Catherine Johnson, a student
in the college of letters, was the first OF
the student speakers at the recent COM
mencement exercises, Her subject was
"California's Spanish Inheritance."
A Pennsylvania girl, Miss isabel Finley
OF Morristown, has been decorated by the
king and queen Of Italy for her services
at Messina. She has also been made an
honorary member Of the Queens Board Of
Beneficence and enrolled among the bene-
factors of the Hospital for Incurables at
Naples.
Mrs. Margaret E. Langdale Of Cambridge.
Mass, has Just given the Phillips Exeter
academy &0,0O0 to found n scholarship to
be known as the Charles +. Langdale
scholarship. Mrs. Langdale's husband, the
late Prof. Charles r.. LHngdale, was for
many years the dean Of the law faculty of
Harvard and this scholarship Is to COM
memorate his work.
The opening of a woman's club the other
day in Cork, Ireland, caused a sensation.
When the usual club license was applied
for the newspapers announced the calam-
ity in bulletins. They drew glowing pic
lures of bankrupt husbands sitting at home
nursing their neglected offspring when
they should be at work. while their wives
in costly furnished club rooms staked their
last pennies on bridge. The new club house
Is described as having charming bed rooms.
an excellent cuisine, good livery accommo-
dations, golf links within easy reach and
cosy rooms set apart for bridge and smok-
ing.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13

net or other sheer material. the lace
encircling the arm, with one of the wide
bands above the elbow and one below.
other long close sleeves have the plaits
OF the bodice shoulder continuing down
the sleeve top almost to the elbow and
hiding the armhole seam altogether. From
under the last OF these tucks starts a
tight plain lower sleeve of the material or
Of sheer material. with perhaps a line Of
trimming running along the outside seam
and around the bottom.
This line of t~rimmlng-lnset lace, en-
briodery. little buttons or what one will
is very much in evidence and frequently
extends on up the shoulder TO the collar.
Sometimes. however, it runs only from the
wrist to the elbow, or half way 10 the ell
bow, and is of use in shaping this part Of
the sleeve closely.
An undersleeve OF sheer material in
something extremely soft is sometimes
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13
American Girls ana TitIes.

The responsibility for the present hui
initiating slave trade in which rich Ameri-
can girls are sold to the titled decadents
of England and the continent is almost
wholly the fault of the men of this coun-
try, writes Anna A Rogers in the Atlantic
Monthly. This opinion is offered only after
years of observation and consideration Of
our social conditions, and after a patho-
logical study of American men. Their open
establishment and chagrin at this pheno-
mena would be vastly amusing were It not
so pathetic. Our men have a helpless in
ability to see themselves. Nor is the re-
sponsibility OF the mother lost sight of, for
the foreign sutton begins with her, as he
does In Europe, She is the outer citadel
which must first succumb to his studied
charm.
This outer citadel Is carried with aston
ishing ease, as he quickly discovers, and
for three reasons: The mother is easily
dazzled; her social foundations do not go
down deep in the class to which she almost
invariably belongs; her husband has made
every dollar of the lure of those millions,
without which there would not be this
problem TO solve. Second, the women who
see what a given man really is, who esti-
mate him at all justly, who begin even to
understand mems social standards either
In this country or Europe, are rare in
deed. The American mother is clearly out
Of her depth at the start, as unfit as a
child to counsel her daughter. She Is not
equipped for It. 1t is not her work. In
the third place, that subtle relationship Of
sex which European men Of any age
always have the art of establishing with
a woman Of whatever age, their attention,
their quick courtesy towards women. their
habit OF listening absorbedly when a
woman speaks-all this Is so absolutely
new to the American mother that she be-
comes hypnotized by it and can no longer
distinguish truth from falsity, or a mere
national point of etiquette from a personal
thoughtfulness and delicate tenderness Of
feeling.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13
Beard Fools a Sweetheart.

Beard Fools n Sweetheart.
An unsophisticated country girl, fresh
from her native hills OF Sweden, had a
heartbreakinR wait Of fourteen hours for
the arrival OF the man she came 1900
miles to marry, at the Union depot In st,
Paul.
Alone, In a strange country, the girl was
on the brink Of despair when her long
vigil was rewarded by the arrival of her
future husband. His appearance was so
changed by the appearance of a luxurious
growth OF golden whiskers that she failed
to recognize the man as he approached. 1t
was only after he had called her some of
the pet names of their sweetheart days
that she realized that It was her lover and
fell weeping on his shoulder.
Six years ago Sven Nelson n Thea An
derson parted in Sweden, after a courtship
which had begun in childhood, he coming
TO the new world to make a home for the
girl, who promised to become his wife. He
was % years old then and she was II. The
prospect was dismal at first, for the de-
termined young man, but he eventually
drifted to the northwest, where he found
encouragement among his own people.
Taking up a homestead in Lake county,
nine miles from Two Harbors, Nelson
worked like a Trojan to make a home for
Miss Anderson. During the devastating
spread of the forest fires last fall Nelson's
farm was In LANCER OF being wiped out
and, the work OF years burned up, but
only a few thousand feet Of lumber was
destroyed.
Two months ago Nelson sent back to
Sweden for the girl he loyad md sba was
80 anxious to reach the side of her sweet
heart that she Travelled night and day,
after landing in New York. Arriving at the
Union depot Miss Anderson expected to
find her lover waiting, but through mis-
calculation, he failed to get there until
10 o'clock at night.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13
Put Away the Powder.


- IGHT on the fresh trail OF the
warning against face powders
issued by a bureau OF the De-
N partment Of Agriculture comes
SH the edict Of Miss Rachel Ben
SJ gamini, principal Of the wash
ington Irving High school. New York City.
forbldding students to powder their coun-
tenances Will beauty spots" Miss BEN
gamini did not merely say: Now. girls.
you will please your dear teacher by re-
training from the employment Of these
purely superfluous adjuncts to beauty
Such a mild caution as tha would only
provoke giggles and result in universal
talcumining. h Miss Bengamini is
sued in the form Of a proclamation was;
Let all take warning thai the next girl
who appears in class room with her face
powdered, OF bedizened with hideous little
court plaster spots, will have II washed off
before the class. She will stand I'D at her
desk and remove the powder, ct cetera.
with a towel"
In explaining her stand In the matter.
Miss Bengamlni said:
1T is very dreadful that this has be-
come public, but 1 canno gainsay its truth.
II makes me ashamed OF myself to think
that l have allowed such a trivial matter
TO become public. However, It Is true. 1
don't think it is girlish or becoming for a
girl to powder. 1 don't approve of it.
hygienically or otherwise. 1 don't intend
to let girls powder their faces in this
school. They come here to improve their
minds, and while they are here they must
think OF their brains more than their
faces"
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13

shoulder to bust,
where 1t meets a
bodice or cuirasse
of heavier material.
The sheer material,
tulle. chiffon or
whatever 1t may
be, is or
gathered softly
around the arm In
a continuation of
the bodice top eff
feet, no armhole
seam showing. The
same idea Is car
ried out In soft
crepe, silk or SINH
lar material, with
the difference that
the fulness from
the shoulder runs
down to meet a
girdle or skirt top
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13

Vulnerable sleeves
OF this sort are to
be found among
the summer mod
els, but the fas-
tidious are at
tempting to C a
from this popular
ICED idea and ex-
~perimenting with
various novelties
in sleeves.
Another type or
sleeve with full
underslesve is on
the order Of the
one illustrated here,
with an easily
fitted oyersleeve OF
the bodice material
extending down
Wen below and fin
shed by some sort
OF flat turned back
cuff, while below is
a soft puff of sheer
material gathered
into a tight band
cuff.
Very wide bands
OF fine cobwebby
lace are set into
some plain close
sleeves Of chiffon,
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13

with short paniers and a pointed girdle.
The waist was drawn fun over a square
yoke Of Irish lace, and above the girdle Of
blue silk, which was shaped and made on
a foundation, there was a second girdle Of
softly folded organdie. knotted at the left
with the slashed ends falling below the
hip line. Sleeves were rucked and close
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13

Whenever a girl plans to go anywhere
she confronts the problem OF clothes, There
are many little things in the way Of
clothes you will have to arrange that won't
cost much, but will add materially to your
comfort. says Ruth Batchelder In the De-
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13

was said by an intimate friend Of the
family that her brothers now realize that
any fight which might be made to have
the marriage annulled would be useless.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13

and forms the body of the bodice.
Evening frock sleeves, when more than
a mere wisp Of tulle or laces, may be either
short and close fitting or softly full, after
the fashion of the two pretty models pic
tured here. The short, close-fitting sleeve
is almost always open up the outside, with
trimming running up each edge and some
fanciful device for holding the two sides
in place, or perhaps with lace or chiffon
filling in the opening and holding the sides.
The two full sleeves Of the sketches
speak for themselves and are unusually
attractive models. Dark net or chiffon laid
over white lace makes pretty sleeves and
Filings for a very low-cut bodice, the lace
rising above this cork tucked to form a
becoming collar.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13

- Pnb aAu Aluppy OHldhs
1t is not later than seventy-five years
ago that the ideal life for a lady was:
To sit in a parlor
And sew a fine seam.
Now. one can be a lady and do almost
anything, always provided she is suf-
ficiently clever. One who Is Enthusiastically
clever enough is Miss Clara Webb Of Ore
gon There are few places in this country
where a woman may not essay whatever
she pleases, and in as western and breezy
a state as Oregon, she is doubly fortunate
in this respect. Miss Webb is said to be
educated, a musician, and to have had the
advantages of travel, but out of all the
ways In which she might use her faculties,
she prefers farming. Her father, on his
death, left his large farm to his daughters,
and Miss Webb manages 1t. After think
ing the question Of what crops she should
possibly select as specialties, she deter
mined on fruit. and having a strong liking
for blooded stock she decided on rearing
cows, sheep, hogs and fowls. Accordingly
she has planted ten of the 200 acres of the
farm to cherry trees, and she has tons Of
fruit, and has won prizes at local exhibits,
medals at the pan-American exposition n
cups at the Lewis and Clark fair, and the
income she receives from the sale of the
fruit is reported to be larger than that
brought by the crops of any two or three
of the adjoining farms put together. OF
course, she has fine soil, equally of course,
she attends personally to her richards and
fully understands their culture. She also
closely watches the condition of all her live
stock. She takes prizes on her hogs and
sheep. The latter bring her a handsome
profit, both from her fine crop Of wool and
sales from her flock. The New York
Tribune's account OF her says:
Dressed In a sensible costume and stout,
high rubber boots, she is here and there
and everywhere about the farm-1nto
everything she says. pig pens, sheep pens,
horse stables and plowed ground. II my
foreman needs a hand / want to be ready
to turn in and help him, and 1 don't mind
the dirt. Why hould II It's clean dirt.
Now she is found experimenting the laying
of a floor in one of the pigpens; now TAX
ing her turn on the potato planter; now
feeding her beautiful Lincoln sheep"
This explains her success. Ability, will
ingness to work, are the prime factors,
There is no 'luck' in business.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13
Curious and Romantic Capers of Cupid

shrewd. A well-ordered French household
is the supremist example Of the old adage
that Two heads are better a one"
The best test Of a successful marriage IL
TO see whether. at the end Of five years,
husband and wife would. If time could be
set back for their convenience. repeat the
experiment, 1t is safe to assert that such
would be the case in a larger proportion
of French than OF British marriages.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13
Changes in Sleeves Come with the Seasons

tucked closely all around and left to fall
in a frill down the outer seam.
Sleeves cut in one with the upper bodice
or so trimmed hat they seem to be so cut
are extremely modish, and this idea is very
often developed in filmy sheer stuff, which
is drawn down in soft surplice folds from
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13
Heiress Mnrrler chauffeur.

- ITH the place or the ~chautteur'
NAY Albert Hall, usurped by Mr..
WV Daniel Cupid, the big touring
~ car of Miss Elizabeth B. Berg
SSNYES7b doll of Wynnefield avenue,
G2 helress and daughter of the late
Louis Bergdoll, a wealthy brewer of Phil
adelphia, swung out of lovers lane Friday
of last week and stored straight for the
road to matrimony.
The trip was quick, sudden and surpris-
ing, and the capstone of a pretty romance.
Hall was engaged by the Bergdoll family
more than a year ago as chauffeur. The
daily intimacy of the young man and
Miss Elizabeth, It is said, quickly devel-
oped symptoms of affection. This became
apparent to the members of the young
woman's family and Hall was discharged.
Nothing daunted, the young couple con-
tinued their courtship less openly. Last
Saturday Miss Bergdoll became of age and
inherited 100000 under the terms Of her
fathers will. She Immediately left the
home of her mother and purchased a home
for herself, secured a marriage license
and married the man of her choice.
AS Mrs. Hall, however, is of age and
possessed Of a n independent fortune, It
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13

~ NbtlOhhl OOunclAs
Mrs. Mary Wood Swift of Berkeley, CAL,
will represent the National Council of
Women of the United States at the fourth
meeting Of the women of all lands in To-
ronto, Canada June 10 to 81. This meeting
Is the quinQuennial congress of the Inter-
national Counc of Women.
Mrs. Swift is president Of the national
council Of the United States, which is COM
posed Of about twenty or more national
women's societies, uniting for concerted
action along lines OF mutual agreement,
such as the movement for international
peace and arbitration, the vote for women,
etc. There are about 1900, 900 women mem
bers in this great coalition, which is the
largest and eldest group of the kind in any
land, having been formed in 1888, the year
In which the late Frances Willard, Susan
b. Anthony and other leaders Of the last
century got together and organized it and
the international council. No less than l.
100000 women, It is estimated, will be rep
resented at Toronto.
A sister of General Leonard Wood and
the wife Of the late Ambassador John
Swift, who represented this country at the
court of Japan, Mrs. Swift has long been
in touch with diplomatic leaders. She was
instrumental in organizing and leading the
first council of women on the Pacific coast,
her home being in California.
She is a woman of fine presence and
great ability, and her leadership has been
marked by tact and energy.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13
Activities and Views of Progressive Women in Various Walks of Life

l~ineator. Nearly all OF us realize the i'm
portance OF presenting a good appearance,
and II IL really an asset in business. But
being we'll dressed does not necessarily
mean extensively gowned. Here is a prac-
teal list Of clothes you ought to have on
coming to the city and the price at which
Omaha daily bee., 1909-06-13

CIV YORK, June 12.-Concerning
sleeves, as concerning tastes,
there is no disputing, this sea-
son. Or rather there is plenty
Of disputing. but all to no pur-
pose. Apparently each of the