The Washington herald., 1909-06-10
By FREDERIC ]. HASKIN.

The antiquarian made OF Cairo a stop
ping place and a workshop: society OF
four continents has made It a social capt.
tai The British army OF occupation
made the Egyptian metropolis habltahle,
and the 'wintering' public has made II
a city OF splendid hostelries, frequented
by the socially notable OF every civilized
country. The Egyptoiogist still camps in
Cairo, but he is submerged beneath the
waves OF society.
Constrast is the chief charm OF Cairo.
The luxurious caravanseries adjoin the
domieiles OF the sons OF the soil. in whose
domestic economy the bathtub has no
place. II is here that the elite Of Africa
meet the elite Of every other continent
The Egyptian. cream coloTed or moder-
ately brown, wearing his fez indoors and
outdoors. mingles with Westerners.
though. OF course. the Circassian ladies OF
his household are never seen at social af-
fairs The ball rooms are brilliant with
red coated officers OF the army OF occupa-
ton. and respondent with the amazing
plaids Of the officers Of the Scotch regi-
ments. Members Of the British nobility
and representatives OF the American
'aristocracy of wealth" congregate at
these functions and lend an effect varied
and unique
Then there is the city and the desert
Sunset upon the desert was impressive
and beautiful when Egypt was young.
and the oldest Of the Pyramids had no
place IN the dreams Of men. One may sit
comfortably upon the roof OF his hotel
and witness the spectacle. The tall masts
Of the dahabeahs rise above the level Of
the roof. and the Nile. giving back the
slanting rays Of the sun. stretches far
out toward Roda. where Moses was found
in the ark Of bulrushes. and toward the
Island OF Ghizireh. made beautiful by the
reckless extravaganza OF IsmaiI Pasha
Against the stu brilliant heavens upon
one side Of the Nile are etched the slender
minarets OF the Alabaster Mosque. While
a stately Arab or Sudanese in flowing
robes is serving ones appetizer" the
sun sinks below the long line or brown
desert hills and a Hichens afterglOw OF
marvellous Iints and long duration bathes
the heavens in fire. When Pyramids at
Ciizeh have faded gradually into the
purple shadows OF the deepening dusk II
- kllllt 10 uTeSS IOr dinner
If one insists on going to the desert
for his sunset there are dromedaries with
one hump or camels with two, with gaits
that wrench the back Of a civilized man.
But motor car may be depended upon
TO convey one thither in comfort A
dozen motor cars parked under the
shadow Of Cheops is no unusual sight
Comeback excursions into the desert
form an especially popular diversion OF
visitors from the Occldent Riding a
camel is Ike having chronic rheumatism
one gets used 70 1t, but can never be
said 10 really enjoy II. But desert rides
are the fad OF the period and the torture
IS undergone unmurmuringly. Sand carts
usually convey the chaperon, while the
interested couples trek ahead on the
camels. A number Of Bedouins may be
hired TO precede the caravan and sing
songs in Arabic while the prehistoric
looking ship OF the desert and the
modern sand cart vie with one another
n swaying the excursionist 70 and fro
as If 10 discover the secret Of why the
vertebrae OF the human spinal column
stick together
Viewing the pyramids by moonlight
forms another feature OF social activity
in Cairo. Thanks to the largeness Of
the late Ismail Pasha's ideas. a fine
macadamized boulevard. built upon a
MI, traverses the plain between the
Nile and Gizeh. Antiquarians objected
some years ago when q trolley line was
projected 10 the pyramids, but inasn,uch
as the Egyptian trolley car advances to-
ward its terminal station al a pace suf-
hciently decorous 70 suggest genuine
reverence for historic ruins in its vicinity,
there is no cause for a quarrel with
this manifestation OF progress at Gizeh.
After the tourist has visited the pyra-
mids in the daytime he does not wonder
that Napoleon chose midnight as the
hour 70 pdy his visit and utter his invo-
cations-there were fewer pestiferous
guides 10 annoy him with offers Of serv-
ice. Nowadays. the nocturnal visitor is
compelled 70 use violent language to rid
himself Of the "watchman" who proposes,
for a shilling. to burn a magnesium wire
to light up the monument, upon which
the dazzling light OF the full moon is
shining. A boy in a flowing robe SOL
emnly tells you that Napoleon shot of
the nose Of the Sphinx with three can
non shots. and that he was there and
saw it done. A young man Of athletic
disposition proposes TO run 10 the TOP
quick In seven minutes like Mr. Mark
Twain" and others would rent you a
donkey or tell your fortune or sell you
little blue scarabs. the workmanship OF
which suggests a French or Italian fac
tory. When one journeys 5000 miles 10
contemplate the pyramids and solve the
riddle OF the Sphinx interruption by these
persistent grafters is a nuisance.
Dancing is the chief feature Of social
life in Cairo. The stranger within the
gates who stops at the right hotel may
go 20 bail almost every night in the
week Next morning, as he takes his
coffee and eggs. he may read that ne
was among those present" at an affair
at which, judging from the list Of titles.
half the aristocracy Of Europe disported
itself But unless he finds a friend who
has been properly introduced he meets
no one, and is lucky II he can even find
out who's who as he occupies a seat
IN a corner.
IF the tourist wishes 20 avoid the ultra
fashionable hotels he may go to q modest /
pension, where the proprietor bids for the
patronage Of a shirt sleeve" nation by
announcing that evening clothes at din
ner are optional. He finds that the obIig- /