The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-07-31

cores OF the skirt on the opposite or
smaller side into the girdlc If doing
tins makes the width Of this side around
the hip from front to back too great.
take out the eXcc,s al the seam Joining
the two side cores; do not, If it can
be avoided, disturb the seam where the
front panel JOINS the first side gore.
Alter fitting, remove the skirt and
lining bastc any necessary alterations,
then stitch and press the seams. Stitch
the grdlc at both upper and lower edges
and along the sides Of the front panel.
he stitching should be about one-eighth
OF an inch back from the fold-edge
to make the overlapping edges we'll
dehncd. Fit the lining into the girdle.
trying both on again and pinnins them
together if that seems advisable
Turn under seam at both upper and
lower edges of the lining. Catch stitch
or hem the lower edge. leaving 1t freq
from the cloth; hem the upper edge
| by hand to the turned-over edge Of III,
cloth girdle. The boning is placed
toward the inside of the lining in order
| that ITS impression may not show
through the girdle. no matter how light
weight the goods OF the skirt may be
A Buttoned Skirt
Another model is shown with simu
lated button-and- -buttonhole closing A
the nter-front, the lapping edge OF tn,
closing being cut into what NAV h
called squared scallops. Not everyon,
will want to undertake this work
though it undoubtedly adds to the eoot
effect OF garments. After the corrcc
front length of the skirt is determined
| 4 line OF tracing threads represent
the ccnterfront of the skirt: the over
! laDping edge IN any case must be face,
back scam past this centcr-frcnt lino
| Basic this facing to the outside oi
| the right-hand portion of the front gore
Lay the scallop pattern on the gore
even with the front edge. the side Of
The scallop-piece thrce-eighths Of an inch
| below the waist edge at the centcr-front.
Mark with chalk. then baste and after
ward stitch seam three-cighths of an
inch inside the edge and the diagonal
chalkcd line, carrying 1t TO meet the
straight chalk line that divides the
blocks or scaliops
Notch down to the sewing-line in
each OF the V shapes, turn the facing
piece over, being careful to make good
corner turns, baste around the fold-cdge
and stitch Several rows of stitching
may be made or one or more rows OF
soutache may be sewed a space from
the edge, carrying the braid to the cen,
ter-linc-
Simpler Method
A much simpler method. BY which
practically the same result may be
reached, is to face the overlapping piece,
leaving the edge straight Mark on
the right side with chalk, as described.
and use this chalk line as a guide for
braidng. Several lows of Soutache with
spaces between, the width of the braid,
will have good trimming effect The
simulated buttonhole in each scallop is
also made of the braid, or If stitching
and not braid is used, make this OF
narrow fold of the cloth.
Face the left-hand front portion with
a piece of lining material and join it to
the rlght-hand portion by laying its
edge even with the center front trac-
ing on that portion. A button sewed
at the center of each scallop through
both skirt portions secures them togeth-
cr. Buttons for this purpose should
be the same color as the skirt material,
or OF its prcdominating color if mixed
or checked goods is used.
Buttons
In fact, many Of the high class tailors
have the buttons made in their work
rooms, covering wooden button -molds
Chat may be bought for few cents
per dozen) with scraps of the material
which have been embroidered