Evening star., 1909-05-23
The Collarless
Gown for the
Girl Graduate

yHILE the Paris fashion maker
w rsrs'. in the :,aDorss'oa he
w works into his lingerie gowns
for the full-blown roses among MS
women patrons. he smiles benisniy-
the proverbial smile of gracious
binations he has evolved for the rose
buds. While there is no one any
more pleased with this concession 10
youth than monsieur. the dress which Is
short and simple and girlish has found
favor throughout Paris, as it is sure 10
in America; and not alone for street
wear. but for occasions. These pretty
styles, without an excess of trimming
to mar their beauty. will take first rank
as GRADUATE gowns. NO collar; short
ened sleeve" reads the tag that marks
the young girls gown for the "armes'
DAYS and the general style is entlreis
appropriate for the graduate. The neck
is lowered just enough to be becoming
and somewhat dressy. while the sleeve
admits of the wrinkled elbow glove.
wAIsT-LINE TREATMENT
The dress for this momentous day
should be made of something sheer
either linen null, tulle or SWISS Inc
sash. that persisted in calling itself
sirdle while it clung to US last summer
has more or less disappeared. and in the
main more to give place to the one
niece effect. The skirts and bodices are
fY,ra artS m
tucking that the waistband demands a
certain share of notice. refusing to be
hidden by a sash.
The first young girl at the left OF our
sketch, wears a most attractive fig
ured swiss made up with SWISS en-
broidery, the bands of which are joined
together with beading. The neck Is
round and low: the three-quarter sleeves
are rather close fitting There Is
slight fulness in the bodice, ana the
sheer material admits Of like fulness
in the tunic effect and the lower skirt
portion. This gown has been made by
hand. and is an excellent adaptation OF
medieval lines.
The second model is a gown OF plain
tulle Rows of hand tucks, with per
pendicular pufings in between. form the
bodice. The tucks and pufdngs that
help to make the sleeves and skirt run
In the opposite direction. Skirt and
bodice are joined by a coarse cluny lace,
which combines SO well with the plain
net This little dress is entirely prac-
tical, and will prove durable tub gown
IL made of the wash net that the Paris
dressmaker almost harps upon.
Our last girl graduate wears hand
made linen gown of that most sheer
quality which combines so successfully
with valenciennes lace. The serpentine
insertion has been used-that having an
uneven edge-and it has been incorpo-
rated in a zigzag pattern. The sleeve Is
very short and slightly puffed. All Of
the French dresses show that careful
discrimination in the choice of different
laces for the several materials. which
means a successful model.
NECK SUGGESTIONS
These bodices have all been lowered
at the neck to the point of becomingness
and not 10 the Line OF decapitation' so
long affected by the English maiden.
The Dutch neck will undoubtedly claim
among ITS wearers many of the younger
women who have never .ventured SO Tar
before. but il is not to be recommended
TO the somewhat older woman whose
neck has lost the bloom Of youth. The
line of the Dutch neck. II it be round.
should be edged with suitable lace
that may serve to strengthen, and IL the
Dutch neck be cut square. its corners
should be sharply turned. A suggestion
from the French maker crosses the water
TO us 20 the effect that the lowered neck
line may not retain its shape with fire.
ouent launderings: but practical Ameri-
can measures will obviate this diff1culty.
These gowns should be Tapped one inch
at the back so that the fastening may
be the reliable button with buttonhoies
worked through the material, except for
"a b,