davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25

currents A topcoat by Druihle. which
appeared ut the Stella Club or Women
BallooDists the other day was OF rolsln
purple camcisbnir I'm coarse diagonal
weave with elaborate braldlngs In self
color. These brnldiugs were put on In
broad panels md In huge pocket foros
the skirt OF tho coat falling iD side plaits
below these pocket patterns, Many OF
the topcoats have belts at the hip. the
SKIRT hanging In plaits from this point;
aud there are Moyen'agc coats with panels
NJ back and front and plaits from the hlp
down at the sides OF the garment.
Trimmings mt the Sidcscnms
Feature,
Hip and undcrnrm trimmings nre the
fed this fall, as well as curious crosS.cut
effects. many OF the smart French coats
being put together IN Gcomctrical sections
Such coat built by Solovlci, Is OF me-
lbpge-or mixed homesDun-aDd is cut In
40 mnDy sections. one lnppcd over the
other. that the back looks like On archi-
tect's plan. Two of these sections c1-
tend around to the front In belt fashion;
one at the hips and the other Just below
The bust. and the tabled ends cross under
huge jet buttons.
Fewer Buttons, hut These More
Elaborate.
Not so many buttons are used on the
tailored out-Of-doOr garments for this fall.
hut the buttons that are used are very
handsome. So md S5 being often asked
for single button by the manufacturers.
One may imagine how substantial will be
the cost OF n coat bearing bali dozen
OF these expensive button ornaments.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25
Wells thGt ore
ElKAL/-ZZNXZEZ2C q

II n ELS orc first In the list OF the im-
N 81 portant accessories 10 my ludys
u y toilette. She Is OF necessity pnr-
" uculor about the Kind and variety
OF wells she purchases. She must
have sufficient number. for 1t is m.
possible to wear n soiled one, and they
must be either washed or renewed en-
tirely. There is nothing that adds so
much to a woman's attrnctivoness and
beauty "a becoming veil Indeed, that
Is one OF Its mnin excuses for living. 1t
Is sometimes said that a veil Is worn 10
protect the complexion and to keep tho
hair I'm place, but beauty lotions now
take care OF the former and hnlr nets see
thot each hair is In Its correct mnrceI
wave aud has not trcspassed 90 the wave
OF lts nelghbor, SO, then. beauty Is the
nrst qualification OF the veil
Autoinobiling wells are a large feature
or the motoring costume, for much of
the beauty of such costumes depcnd,
upon the harmony OF tho veil with the
rest of the toilette. II ia n matter upon
which one should spend sufficient time to
Insure the purchase OF Just tue right
mnterlol. the right shade, thc right length
and then Sufficient time should he put
upon the matter OF properly adjusting
the veil 10 the hat.
The present shapes AZ hats and trim.
mings lend themselves particularly we'll
to the new lace wells which are having
q lersc vogue. They are extremely sunp.
ny looking. but tho woman who wear,
orc OF there princess OF chantiIly lace
vcls must have her entire toilette abso.
lutely up TO the mark, and In kcepinc
With the elegance Of her yeIt or the
iocc wells the cbHntlily and princess looes
are the favorltes Chantlily wells come
10 inrge pattern effects like the vclls
which were the fad IN the spring, II Is
INC absolute novelty which makes vcIl
OF tois sort popular, and M soon as the
novelty begins to wear of the fad Ia
replaced by something more sane.
Tho fall wells are strongly dominated
pS eccentricity. Indeed the patterns run
TO such an extreme that one ls rather
inclined 10 believe that Dame FnshIon
naS done bcr worst Never hnvo thore
uerh snch extremes adopted by fashion.
nD'e women as the present yelling season
ouS disclosed. Frequently style is nj.
t,active from its pure startling Qualities
Mony Of the dots in the PorIslnn ycIIs
range from oue.balf to an inch I'm siza
Inc onc thread foundation OF tic veil
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25

some 1eweled buttons This coat is part
Of a tbrcc-piece sult OF blue chiffon vel
yet-a mutcrln TINT Is 10 replace satlu
for very drcsss Wear, The h!gn, gauntlet
cuas aud The loug rcyers are Of moire
silk-anotneT ultsR smart material FOR the
coming season
This coat shows the low front opening
and long slender rcvers, the garmcut fas-
tcnlng at the hlp mdcr n Jewelcd oruu-
ment matching the buttons. The sleeve
Is interesting, in that it shows the new,
high Gun, which Is the latest Paris sleeve
notion. A Bccbo0 David suit IN stcnc
blue cloth also shows this gauntlet cu(f,
the sleeve being pleated into tho cuff to
give 0at Enc
skirts in Walking Length for
Street Wear.
The French woman very seoSlbly has
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25

her trotabout skirt cut In n length that
swings clear OF the pavement, and the
best American tailoTs orc following this
idea. though many OF the rendy-made
suits show the tlrcsome trailing skirts OF
last winter French fashions, however.
have ever hceu tontai;iog wlll-o the
wlsp that fits aggravatlnGly just ahead
OF tho manufacturers and very seldom DO
they keep up with IT'S lntest yogarlcs.
Some OF the now two-piece suits at
quite moderate prices nre however, direct
expressions of late Paris ideas anu among
these the graceful priDtzcss models nrc
noticeable a prlntzeSs salt shown to-
day has The long. elegant coat falling
over sensible Elltcd skirt in walking
length, aud cut md finish OF this little
suit are full OF Partisan snap and char
actcr.
The New Shicld-front Fastening.
Like many OF the new models this
rrlutzcss coat fastcns across the chest In
what Is termed tho shield" manner tho
line Of buttons taperlng Ia from shoulder
Ia waist This fastening. Ike little
lads Russian frock, gives slenderneSs TO
the figure and Is particularly youthful Ia
style The model promises to be Il speclai
law llt lNl ldAi-
While threc-piecc costumes with hand
some long coats oTcr elaborate frockS
VIII be used for formal wear, the jaunty.
well-tailored two-plecc sult-to be worn
with Shlrtwaist designed to match It
VIII he the correct thing Tor shopping and
runabout street wear. These smart little
suits with their pleated skirts and long.
slcuderly bulls couts are mostly OF rough
material Ike heavy walled serScS and di-
nsonals corded stuns or hOmcSpuns 10
oue-touc or twotouc cdccts. The more
elaborate tailored costumes are OF broad
clotn. satin cloth, molre gllk and velycts-
| a wine coiorc1 velvet coat and frock cos
: tune recently seut over to complete nm
! October troussc1u, Is magnificent 10 It's
splendid coloriug and simplicity Of line
I The frock shows funic of wiOecoored
! voIe ulnou weighted 10y knee depth
nouuce OF the velvet and the materials
| In their soft richness trail most gracefully
about the feet The coat matching this
velvet and wolfe frock Is built entirely
of the velvet aud falls 10 within eight
inches ot the Skirt hem. It is quite un-
fitted from shoulders TO hips, where Al
broad braided belt conGucs 1t TO the Gg.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25

Lines are as beautiful and as simple rs
they have been for the past two scasouS'
for couturlcrS. after worklug hnrd mud
persLstently 10 establish La Llgnc. VIII
net sacrifice 1t for any ovanescent Louis
style period. So the gay Louis cGccts
which are already making themselves felt
IL tailored garments, show themselves
rather in splendid cmbroiderIes and trim
minSs than in amy novelty or shape.
BrnidinS High In Fashions Favor.
Much br0idIng Will be used, chiefly In
flnt. panel cfccts and large motifs. Frogs
and pnsscmentcrlc ornaments are also
shown on the dressier models, sometimes
loops of cord Stimulating buttonholes foC
huge buttons Of jet or In jewel cGec:s.
These jewel buttons with colorcd stoues
set in rims OF dull silver on Drorss
metal. are very Gmsri, and ono ot
the coats shown today has these hand
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25

Some are OF London smoke on one side,
shell plnk on the other aud various
chorming combinations. Frequently clever
women make their own double wells 10y
buying two Of the tones desired and slip
stitching thom together. When this mode
IS followed Tho wells can bc taken apart
and wnshed ard then readJustcd.
one dear little debu5autc motorlst
looked Ike a fGir queen Ia an u.l-whitc
costume. white hnt aud yards and yards
Of pure white chiffon yelling Her hat
wGs small and The veil WAS gracefully
adjusted with Il fold under the chin aad
tied with coauetush erect On The LETT
side leaving the ends To iig mcrrlly as
the motor raced along. Somc OF the mo-
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25
THE BLACK NEcKrIE FAD.

TNEN the upobscrvnnt must have
~ noticed the recurrence of black neck
~ ties on smart costumes this summer.
with the Dutch collars nre worn dat
pump bows of black velvet or silk and
often a jabot OF lace or embroidery lnwn
falls below. Black ties also give cocbct
10 colored linen frocks and even to white
costumes, often one OF these crisp black
ties being used with dangling Jet ear
rings and a huge black hat The touch
OF black Just beneath the chin is most
becoming mud frequently makes 4 dead
white frock possible to even a woman
OF sallCw complexion,
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25
tor vcIls are lied In The bocs.

tor wells are tied In the bock.
Mrs. Clarence Mackay wore during her
recent lecture on woman suffrage ut Co
lumbia University beautiful black SIX
mesh veIl. with Z heavily plumed black
velvet hat Mrs. Mackay IS partial to
pluined black velvet hats, and they are
particularly becoming 10 her brilliant
beauty
Ous stunning Veil shown In an Inn
portcr's shop on Fifth avenue shows
large four-slded mesh in black over pale
filmy pink chiffon Although the two
f0brics are separate, they come together
az the borders aud make an unusually
becoming eIcct when adjusted over n
smart chapeau. This IL pew note In
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25
A PRETTY FRENCH PERFUME
NOTION,

TN PARIS perfume shop is Offering n
ET dninty cOncelt thOt VIII make The
y 2 most delightful Christmas gift 10
thc woman who loves delicate perfumes.
Lies MUSES." is printed in gold lettering
on the outside of the pretty box. Inside
are three tiny bottles With cut-glnss
shoppers, each bottle being trianrular In
shape and the three trlaugles 1tting Into
a perfect circle The three perfumes urc
labeled respectively POesee, Dance aud
Music. and n drop Of each is 10 be used
ON ones handkerchief
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25

urc, the skirts falling straight again TO
the bottom Much braldlng 10 the wine
color Of the velvet ornaments tbs gar
mcnt, which IL altogether a superb and
regal winter wrap.
The oversiSirt Appears on Separate
Skirts.
Ono OF the most conspicuous features
OF fnll styles In Paris IS the o7erskirt or
tunic. Sometimes this tunlc is an exten.
sion Of The bodice which falls In a sur.
plice. or Russian Smock over the skirt
Sometimes 1t Is n drapcry that CROSSES
the skirt at the knees. soping down
ward at the back In the graceful effect
originated 10y Callot. Again it is II shaped
oYerdrcsS set on above a plcatcd nounce
aud this lGst notion promises 10 be very
popular In tuilorcd separate skirts and
In rbe skirts OF two-piece suits. the tunic
oyersLIrt fitting very smoothly over the
hips aud fastening at one side OF the
front with large lat buttons
An overskirt draper, just nt present
the rage in Paris, is called la laveuse,
or the washcrwomnu skirt; and n Drecoll
model showing this wasbcrwoman ever
skirt l. illustrated Sometimes the wash
erwoman oyerskirt IS faced up With n
contrasting material. making the eucct
especially conspicuous, but the best
couturcrs employ the notion simply MS
n form OF dTlpery and do not allow II to
interfere with the grace and harmony OF
/ tue whole costume
The wasberwomau gown shown Is made
OF bronze green pcrmo mohoir, material
much liked by French couturicrs, and cS-
| pccially 10y Drccoll who aGorcs Its oilLy,
supple texture and dnc drnpery nosSi-
! bilitlcs The pcrmo finish gives a crepe
/ Ike. crlnkly surface To the mohair weave
mud the colorlngs produced In this material
seem to have n peculiar softuess aud
! richness,
Bronze Green n Favored Color.
Bronze green Is all the rnge Just now
| and with the wuSherwoman frOck Is sbowo
one OF the high huzzar turbanS with o
drnpcd crown Of bronze green velvet ris-
Ing above dark brown fur; a bunch OF
algrcticS !u bronze green and soft blue
| tones sprlngiog up at one side. This hu5'
| zor hat. by the by. Is put on In exactly
| the chic Partisan manner The hat Is
first jamucd down over the balr the
bands Juggling hrmly ut either side OF
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25
RESTING THE spIaIr IN SUMMER.

TT Is not enough merely 10 transport
the body to fresh nclds and pastures
new for the summer vacation Tho
mind nlso should be given resi- from
home environment Tho woman who
packs her trunk fun Of bureau Scarfs,
photographs, sofa cushions and the Ike
TO make the summer hotel room seem
homelEc' wonders why her ravcled
nerves DO not smooth out by foil. The
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25
Coats to the Skirt Hem
in Paris Short Skirts
for Street Wear : The
WasherwomanF Frock-
Enter the Overskirt
How to Adjust a Paris
Hat.

sET was y toss-up. six months ago
whether coats for the winter of l9G9-lO
would fall Jauotily Just below the hip
or extend statellly 10 the feet. The
advocates OF the latter style won out
md oil the new fall suits show coats c1-
ccssively long, the Paris models falling TO
wi1hip six inches of the skirt hem. Some
very swagyer topcoats appeared during
tho cool, dlsagrecablc weather that at
tended the Grand Prix; and the aeroPlanc
fctes have also helped the couturlers by
bringing out many dashlug coat styles,
Bnllooning has become positive fad
with fashionable women 10 Paris. and the
fair deyotees OF the new sport do not
pretend 10 affect the spectacular bifur~
Gated garb exploited by the newspapers
tui simply don long. eDycloplug wells and
smart topcoats which cover up the dninty
frocks In which they enjoy tea and cakes
iu the Pare d'AriatioD before the upward
flight Is taken,
Warm Topconts for BnlIoopipg.
These big coats nrc very warm 'ns the
temperature drops decidedly when one Is
soaring through cloud banks or upper nir
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25

DO not have lat covered With pciHn
nblc flowers. but choose rough sta"
shape aud u smart bow.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25
ANOTHER HOPE FOR THE STOUT
WOMAN.

S1 HERE is a little shop Just OF Tue
q fashionable Rue de Ia Paix In fn'h
~ which makes wonderful ''redu''p'
garments" guaranteed To bring down op
stunte hips TO Noycu-ngc measurements
The lateSt Is rubber hip yoke wiz,
lts sl;in-tiebt and h provided With e'e"'
stout strnpS, which mny he drawn iu
the Inches melt away. Each hip renu'
Is made 10 order aud is to be worn tu'
hcnrS a day during brisk walk. eofS'"
being dispensed with at this tine au"
long, loose top cont covering the usu
The applicant for lcHuncss is assured va. ",
10 pounds week may be dropped 10 t"''
way.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-09-25
Notes and Novelties.

summer hotel rooms may be bare and The
furnishings Intolerably ugly, but the
very change is beneficial. aud when one
reaches ones cosy domlcre again all Tue
ho.oe possessions WIZ seem doubly dcas
from the change and rest.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1909-01-20
A Wise Warning.

General F. D. Grant is one Of the
innumerable hosts who have discov-
cred in their travels railroads where
a perpetual competition is being
maintained to find out how slow a To-
connective can really go. Down South
there is one of these railroads, and
the General vouchsafes for the truth
of the following complaint which was
addressed to the leading paper in the
district by a local planter. He wrote:
"Is there no way to put a stop to
begging along the line Of the rail.
road? For instance, yesterday an
aged beggar with a wooden leg kept
pace with the express ell the way
from Paint Rock to Nola Chucky and
annoyed the passengers exceedingly.
The trains should be made to go fast
er or the beggars slower"
General Grants story is topped by
another one related by w. J. Bryan.
who declares that he found a train
out West which had this notice dis
played in the cars:
Passengers are requested not to
pluck flowers while the train is in
motion. "-Chicago Tribune.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1909-01-20

are often placed loosely along the
bottom of the bank to afford some
foundation for the riprap and to
break the force of the current. Some
times large stones are put in at the
water-line to catch the impact of the
waves and ice. Where they are so
placed, it might be we'll to have very
little slope at the water-line, as shown
in Fig. 1 Of the accompanying sketch.
Riprap may be put in in different
ways. Three possible methods are
shown in Fig. 2 of the sketch. The
practical and really the only good
method of putting in the stone Is to
place them with the long way Of the
stone at right angles to the slope of
the bank, as shown by No. 1 Of Fig.
2. In this way the weight Of each
stone presses firmly against the bank,
with the fat sides of the stones fitting
solidfy against each other. In No. 2
the weight of each stone rests on the
one below it, for the stones are laid
horizontally. Here there Is more OF a
chance for the fiat stones to slide out
of place, while in No. 1 it would be
difficult to pull out a stone after 1t
was firmly imbedded in the slope with
the Others. Never put stone in as
shown in No. 8, where the stones
slant slightly toward the bed of the
stream. It is apparent that the very
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1909-01-20
STREAMS AND ROAD
EMBANKMENTS

Entertainments where roads traverse
streams or lakes are subject to many
destructive agents, and will not last
long unless they are carefully and in
diligently constructed
Along rivers, and especially at
bends, the current is continually car
rying away loose soil, and is as con-
tinuously %loosening more to carry
along. In the spring, the ice, break
ing up, tears and cuts the banks as
it passes along down the stream.
This action takes place high up on
the river bank at the spring high
water mark Bodies Of moving ice
In the lakes crowd the shores with
great pressure, cutting the coast bad
ly where the water is deep close up to
the shore line. When a heavy sheet
of ice is once set in motion by the
wind or current, it has stored up In
1t enormous power. The writer has
see ice fields come in against a
shore where the water was deep right
up to land, and pile up from thirty
to forty feet in height.
Above the high-water mark Of the
stream, or along lakes, above the line
of wave action, the banks are cut by
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1909-01-20
BILL AND HIS RED BROTHERS.
A Pathetic Incident in the Crushing
of a Noble People.

We know how the Indian looked,
and for many generations will be able
to know. But what did he think, how
did he feel-what was he under the
skin? Has any science told us that?
What made the savages of the Rose
bud Reservation a few years ago
abandon their new red wagons and
go to hold a council with old Bill
Hamilton at Billings, Montana? This
is what they said: Brother, we
know that you have ridden these
plains with our fathers, and that
you have seen the buffalo. Now the
buffalo has gone away. We hear
that in the far North the buffalo are
still to be found. Brother, you are
wise, you have travelled much. Take
then as many of our ponies as you
want, as much of this meat as you
want, and go on a long journey to
the North. If you find the buffalo,
come back and tell US, then we will
take u families and follow you to
that place." 1t Is story such as this
which is not written in bronze or
stone.-Hampton's Magazine.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1909-01-20
By Act of Parliament,

According to all accounts the Cam
eron Highlanders Militia are a fine
body of men physically. Not long
ago four of them occupied the least
crowded seat in a full compartment
on a Scotland railway. Just as the
train was moving off a diminutive
little clergyman jumped into the COM
partment and tried to wedge himself
in between two of the Highlanders.
Not finding it very comfortable he
turned to the one on his right and
said:
"Sit up, please. You know that
according to act of Parliament the
seat holds five."
The Highlander looked at him for
a moment and then replied:
THAT may be a RIGHT enough fol-
your kind. sir, but shairly ye Gamma
blame me for no bein' constructed &C.
cording to act of Parliament!!"-Chi.
cago Evening Post.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1909-01-20
A New Type of Brick.

IN a recent lecture before the Com.
mercial Club, of Portland, Ore, a
San Francisco architect described the
Bruner Building, just finished in Oak.
land, across the bay from San Fran.
cisco, as the highest type of ireprooi
construction. This is a tall building
of reinforced concrete, the walls OF
which are faced with brick of unusual
shape. This brick has a groove cast
on it's inner edge, that the concrete
may be dovetailed in the brick as the
walls rise. The brick is the usual
size, and the wedge shaped groove
is the invention of an Oakland man.
who had observed how difficult it is
to keep a brick facing in position in
a concrete wall in a conf1agration.-
Cement Age.
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1909-01-20

In practice, the earth is put in at a
trife f1atter slope than given above.
Below the water-line, the slope should
be still flatter, running as fiat as
three and one-half to one, or even
four to one. Earth under water has
a much smaller angle of repose than
the same earth above water, as shown
in the table, in regard to wet and
damp clay.
From the high-water line on the
river bank, or the wave line on the
lake shore, down to the bottom of the
slope, the bank is commonly protect
ed by a layer of riprap or fat stones.
If large stones are available, they
The Abbeville press and banner. [volume] (Abbeville, S.C.) 1869-1924, 1909-01-20
LAD TELLS OF SHOOTING BOY.
Youthful Hunter and Fisherman
OuarrelIed and Latter Killed.

Worcester, Mass. - Francis E.
tones, a sixteen-year-old boy, whose
body was found on the ice on Lake
Quinsigamond, was shot by Ralph
William Krantz, a lad of fourteen, &C.
cording to a statement made to the
police by Krantz, who was taken into
custody on a charge of murder.
Krantz said that he left home with
a shotgun to go hunting. At Hall
Moon Pond, part Of Lake Quinsiga-
mond, he met Jones, who was fishing
through the ice. The two boys quar-.
relied, and Krantz, according to his
confession, levelled his shotgun at
Jones head and fired, the charge
striking the young fisherman in the
head and killing him. Krantz then
picked up Jones' revolver and the fish
that Jones had caughtand went home