New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1909-10-10
FALLFURSARE LIGHTER
COATS SOFT AND PLI4BLE.
l[odish Coat Is Tight Fitting and
Has NGrrO7C Skirt.

Short haired furs for coats and long haired
,,,ra for trimmings give the keynote of styles
for the coming winter: but there Is also "a new
quality 10 the furs; they are softer, hghleI'
more pliable than ever before. II Is uhdouo'-
edly for this reason that women are ap'e ~
carry the long coats that have now received
Dame Fashions sanction.
The new shapes in long coats are beyond
criticism There are two general styles one
almost fitting about the body and quite mar
row in the skirt the other fitting across the
shoulders; but from there begins a slight Iul-
ness that Widens into considerable breadth at
the bottom The former are really the newer
and more chic for street wear.
When long fur coat is 10 be worn Win 4
short dress the length is such as 10 show re"
inches OF the dress. not more than five or slN'
When the fur coat is for carriage use ana there-
fore mostly worn over trained costume theh'
while II is stiu q trife short in front II sweeps
down in a pretty movement toward the BACK
and so lies on the skirt a few inches.
CaracuL which is generally called astrakhan in
Paris. is there much Shown in the narrow
shaped coats. and some fur skirted models are
slso made Of H. II is invariably trimmed with
q big shawl collar and wide cuffs of some long
haired fur such as fox or skunk, and on some
models wide shaped band of the same fur
following the pretty curve Of the bottom of the
coat
Among the fashionable fUrs for coats this
season ara oaTaSll. sealskin chinchilla and sable
Where striped furs used the skins are so
manipulated in the making that the stripes add
much 10 the beauty and style of the garment
Besides giving good figure lines throughout the
length Of the coat, the stripes are so arranged
on cuffs. collar and at the bottom TO make q
very attractive decoration.
Sable skins are so costly that a sable coat
becomes more and more rarity. and some Of
the richest women this season will content
themselves with a scarf and muff Of these beau
tifu skins.
Last winter another rich woman paid in one
OF our big stores $4,000 for sufficient skins 10
make the same articles. All OF which goes to
prove trat the long sable coat is really beyond
price to-day.
Muffs are big. many Of them Of the soft. fiat
pillow variety. Some are shown in melon shape,
but are not nearly so attractive the others.
Then there is one man in Paris who thinks
that because Louis XIV and Louis XVI styles are
SO much talked about women VIII want muffs
of those periods. Bless US! How mere man
does sometimes make mistake about what
women will want, l cannot imagine for one
moment women giving up the big. soft, comfort
able muffs that are such artistic adjuncts TO the
toilet in favor Of OF those hard, little, dinky
things that is scarcely big enough TO get one
hand into comfortably, let alone two.
With the exception of sable. the long haired
furs such as fox, marten and skunk are used
for making the stunning neckpieces that
are Of so many different styles. There is moth
ing more becoming 10 the head and face than
e soft fluffy fur about the neck and shoulders
whether il be in the form Of one OF the big
shawl collars for the coat or of the separa te
neckpiece.
Ermine will be more used for evening than
for day wear though some Of tho black fur coats
show pretty, fat collars made OF this fur 70 off
set the dead blackness of the other fur. ErminC
IS the fur Of royalty, and therefore should be
kept for uses little out Of the ordinary.
There is no end TO the use OF fur for trim
ming this season. BAH gowns, afternoon gowns
and cloth and velvet street dresses and suits
will all carry some touch Of fur in the way OF
trimming bands. To be without fur trimmed
costume Of some description this winter will b'
90 be outside the pale Of fashion.
Then there are 70 be fur hats. big and little
but more generally the big fur turbans of the
Russian type. Even now fur borders are being
used on turbans that have velvet and pann'
crowns Furs Of every kind are used for trim
mings and for hats. The choice depends upor
the colors and materials Of the costume but
mostly the colors.