Los Angeles herald., 1909-01-17

obeyed, 1t every little command of hers he
followed, must certainly be a most capri
couS, untruStWOrthy leader, according to
the Impression given, first, that one and
one only model Is TO be chosen and then
within weeks time putting forward an
entirely different model us the only one
possible 10 keep cool and answering
opinion III the face of such changes re-
cures considerable character and poise
tor ii too much effort be made to follow
out every order in detail the result is
rarely good, and the gowns lack some
thing impossible to define unless it be
lack OF finish. There are certain definite,
fundamental rules to be found, however,
under ali the mass of frippery and uncer-
talnty, and if the foundation be only well
established it is not difficult to work out
endless variations.
Long lines, small hips, close fitting
sleeves, fiat trimmings, classic draperies
are q few of the Distinguishing features
Of the fashions this winter, and with these
to work on or work out the rest of the
task is not nearly so difficult as it may
appear at first glance at the latest de-
signs. For some time much has been said
and written anent the fashion for plain
materials being unusually popular this
season, and countless in number are the
gowns, especially those for evening, which
have been made up on those ideas. Now
every day there are more Of the embroid-
cred and figured materials to be noticed !;
indeed, an absolutely plain evening gown
has suddenly become rather striking in its
novelty.
BARBARIC SUGGESTION Ii TRIMMINGS.
Almost barbaric are many OF the trim
mingS and materials and of an order that
seems far better suited to the stage than
to private life. Viewed from distance
anu as part Of picture these gowns are
superbly attractive. To conservative
taste, while they may be perfect in every
detail, they are almost too startling.
There are most exquisite effects III gold,
silver and jeWelled embroidery that are
not too conspicuous and are better suited
to the drawing room or private ballroom,
and these latter are for the moment the
smartest.
More and more is it becoming the fash
ion to wear the low cut gown at the thea
tire or when dining at the restaurant, but
the time Is not yet ripe for the fashion
to be generally adopted and the theatre
gown of the moment is on the order of
what was formerly known as the dinner
gown. Made of the moot expensive ma
terial, its only difference from the more
elaborate ball gown really consists in the
neck Of the waist not being cut so low
Embroidered satin, tulle and net all are
considered smart, and the work is of the
finest, the embroidery is in many differ
ent varieties-crystal, rhinestone, silver,
gold and jet, the latter becoming more
fashionable every day-and the embroid-
cry IN heavy silks or cord with velvet
applique are all in demand. To secure
the desired effect of the Empire gown
and at the same time not to hide the fig
IS of Saf in
over which falls the robe of spangled net
straight from the shoulder back and front
This net robe is capable of all sorts of
uses. 1t can be spangled with pailletteS
or crystal or jet drops and bordered with
a Greek design. 1t can be almost plain,
with a band all around it. and the cloth
of gold or silver, while the embroidery
can be on the front of the waist.
Charmingly simple and at the same
time, if so desired, delightfully."- expensive
is the theatre gown of transparent white
material with the embroidery in gold; the
pattern, an elaborate one trims the skirt
around the foot; then the same en-
broidery is repeated on the front of the
waist In description this may sound
hard and harsh, but the gown itself is
most graceful and soft, for there are folds
of the material most becomingly arranged
over the shoulders, while the skirt hangs
so as to look soft and graceful. The
model is not strikingly original, but is one
of the most popular of the season and
has the great advantage that not only can
it be made most elaborate, but can also,
by the trimming being greatly modified,
be carried out in quite simple and in
expensive way.
COLOR AN IMPORTANT ITEM.
Color plays such an important part in
evening dress this winter that the ques-
g l. fill
sldered. With the satin gown over which
is worn the transparent robe the color
scheme requires close attention in order
to secure good effect, for the trimming
or embroidery used must harmonic or
contrast. There are many different grades
of trimming: embroidery worked on the
material itself, hand work, is expensive,
especially if an elaborate design be
chosen. But there are any number of
trimmings that have almost the appear
ance of hand work, on gold or silver mesh,
that are wonderfully inexpensive. A
band across the front of the waist re-
quires a trifling amount of trimming, and
the simplest gown can be made to look
as elaborate and expensive as heart could
wish. This is the time of year, too, when
such bargains in trimmings can be found
that the practical woman finds many
treasures displayed from which to choose.
Crystal embroidery and crystal fringe
are smart this year, and are most effective
in the white and pale color satin evening
gowns. Fringe is becoming more fashion
able all the time, and the crystal fringe
makes a charming finish to the short
sleeves and also serves to soften too hard
a line that embroidery or passementerie
is apt to give to the waist Jet fringe,
always the cut jet, is also in great de-
mand in any gown on which jet is used
for trimming. Dressmakers have hailed
with delight this demand for fringe as a
finish to the short, close fitting sleeve.
There was really nothing that looked well
or was becoming, and a lace edge was
so old fashioned, but the bugle fringe
has solved the problem most satisfac-
torily. Theatre and restaurant gowns
while they may be cut low. have quite a
different line from the ball gowns. The
falling of the shoulder effect is not to
be considered and the old fashioned