davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1909-05-01
Two DutGh collare Easy to make at Home

doubt as to whsther collar is or is not
clean enough to wear just once more is
sufficient answer to the question. Neck
wear is thing about which there must
never be the slightest doubt
easy to make. If one is willing to give
little time and pains, that many women
are fashioning their own summer belong
ings of this sort and are saving the rather
exorbitant prices asked by the shops for
ter to possess one really dainty bit of
neckwear-and If necessary do the fire.
quent laundering ones self-than to in
vest in number of cheaply made sorts
of flimsy material.
Low-neck dressings will have the favor
this season. Every woman with face
young enough or throat plump enough
is having her frocks made in collarless
style: and with these collarless frocks
will be worn the big. down-turned hats
In very picturesque effect Some of these
round or V'd bodices are finished with a
simple corded edge. Or with one of the
cord ruches which come in white. colors
and gold and silver effects. Other bodices
are outlined with small nailheads or but
tons. A charming white lace guimpe cut
out in giriish round-necked style, was
finished with string of white pearl
heads. sewed fast to the edge of the neck
opening.
With summer bleuses. Of course some
more positive finish than a cording or a
string OF beads is necessary. and the new
low collars are fascinatingiy pretty. with
their trimmings OF Irish and cluny lace.
their hand embro!deries I'D the gay litpe
iabots. rahais and tab ties. The cheap per
grades OF these collars are made of lawn.
much trimmed with val lace; but the
woman who values really distinctive be-
longings vii, eschew these cheap and
himsy styles and have nothing but col
lars of fine handkerchief linen. with trim
mings OF either Irish or clunr. Imita-
tons Of THESE iast-named laces are eften
Evening star., 1909-05-01

very clever and if the patterns are care
fully chosen they may be used with al
most as good effect as the real laces
Sometimes the addition of clusters of lit
tie crochet balls or round buttons will lift
an imitation Irish medallion to the dis
tinction of real crochet pattern
These turn-doWn collars will be worn
with lingerie shirt waists with linen and
cotton frocks, over coats of wool, mohair
and linen, and even with bathing suits.
At Palm Beach many Irish lace collars
were seen with black satin bathing suits.
and the effect was rather pleasing. the
heavy lace looking almost as well after
a drench:ng in the salt water as before
its wetting.
Some of the hand embroidered neckwear
sets which come from French converts
show turn-down cellar matched by lit
tie cuffs and pair of pointed revers to
be attached to the coat. The F'renc h
neckwear embroideries are usually very
simple. heavily padded dots. quarter OF
an inch in diameter. bejNS the favorite
notion. A stock or Dutch collar of sheer
dots and trimmed with narrow edge of
Irish or cluny lace, is bound t. be dis
tinguished in style. If the dainty collar
is matched by a little tab tie and narrow
cuffs. all embroidered with tire padded
dots, there will be neckwear set which
the owner may we'll trea sure.
All the finest of the handmade collars
come with jabots or tabs to match. though
on very warm days the low collars viii
he worn over thin blouses. with only
rough brooch as a finish. Therc IS some
thing especially cool. neat and dainty in
this low collar and brooch combination,
and with the picturesque millinery for
midsummer wear these effects OF simple
collar and brooch will be most charming
For more formal wear with tailored
linen frocks and coats the jabots and ties
are In better taste Three pretty collars
are shown; one in Dutch Vandyke style:
one a simple Eten and the other deep
Evening star., 1909-05-01

~HINESE paintings are subjects that
until very recently were but slightly
known to occidental students of art.
Yet recent light on this subject shows
that some of the Chinese artists as early
as the first crusade had created paintings
not only cleverly drawn and masterfully
colored. but filled with that subtle artistic
sense that is universally understood and
appreciated by cultured mankind
Chinese temples have furnished the best
examples of Chinese paintings just as the
great cathedral of Europe have given to
western civilization the best pictures from
the brushes of the Italian, French and
Flemish artists. These paintings are
mostly Chinese landscapes. although the
hunting picture of Chao Meng-Fu, called
.Mongols Hunting. is one of the most
famous Chinese pictures. Nature studies.
especially of birds are frequent.
But the most singular and interesting
Evening star., 1909-05-01
SEWING in HUMAN HAIR

several hairs, and about twenty needle
holes are thus punched through the ten
der eyelid. Then the eyelash consists of
continuous series of loops of hair. The
loops are cut with scissors and the eye
lash is complete.
The patient must then lie in dark
room until the soreness has disappeared.
and the pain is very great. These eye
lashes look exactly like the real article.
and are 50 in certain sense The great
trouble with them is that. not having any
real roots. and consequently no ncurish-
ment, they become very brittle. They are
constantly kept soft with special oil. and.
despite the greatest pains. frequently
break off. When many have done this
enough new hair must be sewn in tie eye
lid to complete the set
The eyebrows are sewn In after the
same general plan, but are less painful To
obtain. and last much better and do not
break of as easily Many fashiona BILE
women in Paris, Vienna and London have
undergone this operation, and with new
eyebrows and eyelashes of great length
their looks are undoubtedly improved.
Evening star., 1909-05-01
Elbow Sleeves.

THE dressmakers continue TO insist on
] the long close-fl ting sleeve and the
woman who dotes on comfort is in
despair Anything more unpleasant than
the process of peeling off a long tight
sleeve, inch by inch. when one comes
home on a hot day can scarcely be imag-
ined. A glimmer of light. however. ap-
pears on the sleeve horizon in the form
of cool little transparent cuffs set into
the lower end OF the sleeve. Sometimes
these cuffs are of Irish lace. sometimes
of very sheer batiste. tucked or prettily
by hand. They are simply
ba sted into the sleeve and may be re-
moved when laundered. The sleeve itself
is, OF course. cut off several inches above
the wrist and as the little cuff opens up
its outer edge with buttons and loops.
there is enough roominess obtainable to
push the sleeve upward on very warm
dayS
Evening star., 1909-05-01
RECENTSTUDIES OF CHINESE ART

point about Chinese painting Is, perhaps,
the fact that two distinct methods were
used The first was called the "kake-
mono method, in which the view was
supposed to be the same as If one stood
on the top of a hill and looked down on
the painting. in place Of standing in front
about on level.
This method. coupled with some queer
views as to perspective values. is what
causes Chinese paintings to have their
weird appearance to foreign eyes. when
the behOlder has never studied Chinese
art methods.
used. and in these paintings the method
is practically the same as in our own
schools of art The finer elements of
paintings. such as feeling, repression.
color schemes ETC.. are said by art critics
to be superbly demonstrated by a number
Of the finer Chinese artists.
Evening star., 1909-05-01

TV7HILE the skillful beauty doctor
w usually merely tries to improve
the complexion and general ap-
pearance of his fashionable patrons. there
is a branch called beauty surgery which
deals in very painful operations. Those
operations which change the appearance
of the nose and make beautiful Roman
noses out of misfit affairs have been writ
ten of before, but the sewing in of human
hair out of the patients own head to
manufacture eyelashes and eyebrows is
decidedly novel
Yet this is the latest venture of the
beauty doctors. 1t is extremely painful,
and the effects of the operation take
days and days TO disappear. An unusu-
ally long hair is carefully selected from
the patients head and showed through the
curved eyelet of a surgical needle. Then
the needle is showed through the edge of
the eyelid. Evidently this is delicate
work. The operation is repeated with
Evening star., 1909-05-01

Puritan collar with bow and tab ends.
The Vandyke collar is of handkerchief
linen edged with Irish lace. and medal
liens Of the lace are set in at each point
The jabot with this collar is of the linen
finished with wide strip of Irish lace.
beneath which is q tiny frill of hemmed
linen. The Eton collar is of tucked net
medallions are SCI into the net and little
roses of the crochet are sewed at inter-
walls along the edge. The jabot is OF net
finished with a square medallion of the
crochet. and at the top is one of the lit
tie Irish lace bows which may be pur-
chased for a trifle in any neckwear shop
The Puritan collar Is the most elab-
orate and combines hand-dotted linen
with deep edge OF Irish lace. The bow
and tab ends are quite impressive in size.
a frill of linen tnis .ling the long ends OF
the lace
For the wcman III mourning there are
turn down collar and cuffs of finest hand
shape and are rather narrow. with wide
hens set in with i!ny hand stitches
There are even E,on collars CT white
crepe for widows wear aid these are
worn with little ja'ots of black crepe.
Pretty colored neckwear is sho1n fer
wear with summer SHIFT waists. and
many young women arr making UP these
bits of neckwear fer Themselves. a white
linen collar in Du.cE or Eton style Is
dotted ana sca,lopec by hand in color.
Two quarter-yard lengths of colored eye
let embroidery iiourIci!t2 make grace
full jabot. and this IS attached Il. the
collar with a pert it'll bow of the eye
white or plair ccio,ed linen or cham
bray blouses these eyelet embroidered
and hand worked neck dressings are ex-
tremely dainty.
Evening star., 1909-05-01
Eq18l iii

ObSerVcf s GIdnCe. W IISf3 >
stranger" says she, where does soa'
eve rest after leaving the face: On tue
neck dressing, What does one notice III
a mans dress first of all? His linen ana
his necktie,
There is enough truth in this 10 MAKE
the wise woman consider very caGelniiy
the dressing of her neck--aad especially
IN the season when furs are laid aside -
the neckwear consideration of first I'M
portance Immaculate daintiness and
neatness of arrangement are OF far more
Importance than mere becomingness In
neekwear. A soied stock or mussy tabot,
no matter how becoming in style, Will not
only detract from womans charm, cut
will Re apt to arouse suspicious of her
personal habit of ncatness in the mind Of
the beholder. Some one has said that the
Evening star., 1909-05-01
Chapeaux Upon Chapeaux.

nNE hat over another does seem a bit
~ startling in suggestion. but this style
is actually shown in some of the smart
millinery shops. A leghorn, trimmed
with bands and loops of rose patterned
pompadour ribbon had over it COM
plete lingerie hat built OF fine white net
shirred on wire. The pompadour ribbon
with its pink shadings vas very charm
ing. seen through the net. Another hat
along this line showed a gray chiffon
shape mounted over a white erin hat
trimmed with violets. A suggestion this.
for the woman who cannot pack both OF
her summer chapeaux in her trunk
Coiored foulards with black dot in
place of the more familiar white dot have
found favor in Paris.
Evening star., 1909-05-01

sprouts. and many other onerlngs OF the
fruit and vegetable garden. AS for col
ors. isn't there a luncheon-like suggestion
about lettuce green, mustard yellow.
gingerbread brown and pale ale tan? All
these and other appetizing suggestions
are present in up-to-date millinery.
But besides their appeal to the palate.
the summer hats are deliciously pleasing
TO the eye. Never have picture effects
been much the vogue. and the delight
full part OF it seems to be that one may
choose ones picture from any period one
prefers. 1t may be in dashing cavalier
plumed style, or in gayly fowered Dolly
Warden effect. 1t may be borrowed from
Romney painting or be on the direc-
toire poke order. 1t may be a foppy
brimmed Maud Muller affair, loaded with
Evening star., 1909-05-01
Hips Inconspicuous.

THE eternal striving toward hipiess'
ness brings forward all sorts OF in
genious ideas. Now comes the notion
Of attaching the petticoat 10 the bottom
of the corset by means of line of the
metal snap fasteninss. As the mod!sn
woman never thinks Of wearing more
than one petticoat, this is quite practi-
cal plan 50 far as petticoats of satin
or other dark Fabrics are concerned It
must be remembered. however. that most
of these meta snap buttons are anything
bu, rustless and il ones summer petti-
coats are OF washable fabrics some other
scheme OF hiplessness must be devised.
Evening star., 1909-05-01

color, and the rich plumes massed at one
side are in browns. shading from the
golden brown shade to a creamy pale
ale" tan. Wide velvet ribbon in me-
dunn brown shade is crushed about the
other side of the crown. These wide
velvet ribbons are feature of the French
hats, some OF the ribbons being fully
eight or nine inches across.
Flowers and feathers are combined on
another superb hat for casino and car
riage wear. This big hat is of black
Neapolitan straw. the dropping brim be-
ing rolled a bit off the face and the high
crown being almost covered with a fall
OF superb white ostrich feathers. Tiny
white roses clustered against a fold of
thick velvet ribbon encircle the crown
below the shower of plumes. Black and
white or magpie effects are particularly
smart. and many black Neapolitan hats
are trimmed only with wide black velvet
Evening star., 1909-05-01

makes you think of q huge cookie with
hole In the middle, only this cookie is
as big as a pie plate. The hole of the
cookie fits over the top of the head, the
chapeau is adroitly poised on its edge
and there you are. If you like the hat
you will take it-along with the cookie
bandeau and the millner's advice to in
vest in few puffs or pompadour. IT
you are not willing to do this, better
pass the alluring peach basket shape with
a sigh Of regret and select more con-
servative style.
With the collarless frocks which are
to be worn this summer these big hats
will be especially artistic and attractive.
and one notes in the restaurants these
spring evenings that hoops of jet or
pearls swinging from the ears add still
further to the striking and picturesque
effect Of the collarless frocks and basket
hats.
With the coming of midsummer large,
Evening star., 1909-05-01

shady shapes always make their appear
ance, and some OF the huge plume-trim-
med hats for dressy wear seem to have
stepped from old paintings. Willow and
lobster plumes in wonderful new shades
are seen on some of the French hats,
and paradise aigrettcs at $50 each seem
an everyday matter to the nonchalant
attendant who places an ostrich -heaped
creation convincingly on your head.
The plume trimmed hats are usually of
the finer neutrality-suspicious.. erin and
the new flexible hemp straw being high
in favor with Georgette. whose picture
effects are deservedly famous. For MORN
ing wear the coarse straw braids are
smartest, and these braids, though they
look very heavy I'D cumbersome, are in
reality light az thistledoWn on the head.
Two gorgeous feather-trimmed models
are shown. each hailing from an indis-
putable Paris milliner. One of these hats
Is of hemp straw In soft golden brown
Evening star., 1909-05-01
Cleaning Knives.

KEANY housekeeper finds 1t most dis
i'i couraging to keep the blades of her
table knives thoroughly clean and bright.
They should always be cleaned and rub
bed with soft flannel only If they are
spotted rub some wood ashes on a freshly
cut piece of Irish potato and scour the
Evening star., 1909-05-01

ribbon and q cluster OF white ostrich
aigretteS.
AS the days grow Longer the hats grow
darker Some whimsey OF fashion has
inspired the craze for black millinery.
Smartly dressed women wear with their
tailored suits of smar. worsteds. serges
and mohairs turbans and basket hats Of
the toughest black straw. with aigrettes
and jet trimmings or simple bands and
bows Of black velvet ribbon. With
dressier costumes the finer straws show
these same simple bands OF velvet ribbon.
and the style has distinction Of its own.
Black Is also combined with coiors,
some of the big. coarse straw hats In
black having bands of natter blue rib
bon and punches of pink roses-a most
chic combination. Other hats are trim
med with dark fruit and berry shades.
Black combined with green is also ex-
ceedingiy good. One huge black erin hat
seen at a recent display of midsummer
millinery was encfrcled with punches OF
purplish black berries In dull green leaves.
a fold of raspberry red velvet showing
under the fruit clusters. white rough
straw basket hat was trimmed solely
with a huge cabachon of glossy black
grapes surrounded by vivid green leaves.
This hat was worn with a black frock
color effect
This notion Of matching the parasol to
the hat is always a pretty one. and just
now the graceful scarfs. which form a
feature OF the up-to-date woman's ward
robe carry out the color scheme of hat
and parasoI. Another fad is to have the
satin petticoat, which shows a wee bit
when the skirt is lifted. match hat and
parasol in shade.
The favorite ostrich feathers are used
even on the comparatively small turban
shapes, which will continue to be worn
with certain types Of costume all summer.
A helmet turban of fine black hemp straw
is dashinSly smart with silver cord dull
silver and pearl ornament and an electric
blue ostrich plume sweeping down back
of one ear. Only q pretty face could
stand this rather daring hat. but the
style is especially individual and smart:
more generally becoming turban model
is the one of white straw braid which
shades the face and softens the express
sion This hat is In Corday shape and is
trimmed with ciel blue velvet ribbon and
two lovely blue plumes. 1t would be de-
lectable on a woman of the spirituelie
type, with blue eyes and wavy golden
hair.
Plumes for summer wear should be of
especially good quality. for there is SO
much dampness in the air after sundown
that only a plume of rich quality will re-
tain its richness and fiufiness through a
summer season. Willow plumes are ex-
tremely tempting and extremely costly.
but a willow plume for summer wear is
not such a wise investment as an equally
expensive feather with full. heavy flue or
tip. The willow plume cannot be recurled
by the amateur. for the long. graceful
ends are very lightly knotted to the ends
of the feather itself. and a very slight
pull of the curling knife breaks the fragile
tips.
Simple hat styles are always youthful In
suggestion and especially in summer time
Evening star., 1909-05-01

E famous dress
maker insists that
she plans all COS
tunes with her
mind S eye fixed
on the neck and
breast of the pros
pective creation.
This portion Of the
costume. insists
she, is the focus
ing point Of the
han you look at a
Evening star., 1909-05-01
Palatable as Well as
Artistic Hats New
Bandeaux Shaped
Like Cookies The
Black Hat a Sum-
naer Craze arasol
Petticoat and Cha
peau to Match.

UGH queer edible
delicacies the mill
liners are tempting
us with this year.
AS for shapes;
peach baskets. jam
pots even so u p
kettles and butter
tubs. AS for trim
m | n g $, luscious
grapes, a PIP ] e s
plurus, I o m a toes
a n d b r u s s e | s
Evening star., 1909-05-01


austere lines of an ancient war helmet.
The midsummer hats will all set well
down on the head, but many of them
show a coquettish roll at one side of the
brim or at back or front, and altogether
they have a more dashing and less mys-
terious air than the obliterating shapes
of the winter which came down over the
eyes. suggesting the idea, according to
some critics, that since women were SO
frankly displaying their charms OF figure
by the scanty directoire skirts they were
hiding their faces with their hats.
Spring turbans are often tilted to one
side as though their wearers had deter
mined that at least one eye should be
able to see out. and the big mushroom
hats are being worn tilted a bit more off
the face than has been the case with
the ingulfing shapes seen earlier in the
season. The head sizes are quite as large,
however, and only a head built out with
a plentiful cOiffure of waves, puffs and
curls can wear the new basket and bon
net shaped hats without the risk of total
oblivion. Some of the chapeauX seen
lately make one think of certain famous
artist who, after painting the portrait OF
a society woman in fashionable attire,
took his brushes and daubed out the face.
Upon the lady's indignant remonstrance
he replied: Madame. the costume is all
that l can see."
Evening star., 1909-05-01

The milliners, however. will assure you
-as you peep anxiously out at them from
under a lifted side of hat brim-that
there Is a splendid device to keep the
new hats from resting on the shoulders"
Then they produce a contraption which
Evening star., 1909-05-01

wheat and poppies, or 1t can possess the
austere lines of an ancient war helmet
Evening star., 1909-05-01

knife blade with it, Ivory-handled knives
should never be dipped in hot water, as
the heat turns the ivory yellow. When
not In use, expensive knives should be
carefully wrapped in tissue paper and
kept in box in a drawer of the bunet.
The Daytona gazette=news. (Daytona, Fla.) 1901-1922, 1909-12-25
CHRISTMAS ATTRACTIONS
FOR THE LITTLE TOTS.

The kindergarten of the public
school held their closing exercises for
a two weeks holiday in their rooms
on Third avenue Friday morning of
last week. The rooms were decorated
in Christmas bells and evergreens. In
one corner of the front room stood
a handsome Christmas tree bending
under a load of presents for the
little tots, who we're happily excited
over their part on the program, but
perhaps hardly less so than their
sympathetic young teachers, Misses
Freeman and Roberta Hobbs.
The children went through all their
Iretty songs and exercises in a way
that did great credit to their teachers
Then followed the distribution of pres
ents. Each child received. first, gifts
of calendars and blotters made by the
school; then came bags of nuts and
fruits After which each little miss
received doll and each young man
an allotment of marbles One little
girl was heard to say, Il wish I had
some marbles" Nothing feminine
about her wanting both, of course
The fund contributed by the mothers
for luncheons was used to purchase
the nuts and fruits
The Daytona gazette=news. (Daytona, Fla.) 1901-1922, 1909-12-25
ENTERTAINED At MATINEE
AND Dainty Luncheon

Miss Ella Willaume entertained Fri
day afternoon of last week, nine
of her Daytona Beach friends with a
delightful matinee party at the Crys-
tai Theatre, followed by Christmas
luncheon at the home of her mother,
Mrs C. E. Gardiner, on North Beach
Street
The parlors and dining room were
handsomely decorated in holly and
mistletOe. The center-piece at the
table was a diminutive Christmas
tree beautifully lighted with miniature
electric bulbs in various cOlOrs- An
elaborate luncheon was daintiiy
served. The place cards were en-
blematic, and pretty stems were give1
as souvenirs of the occasion. The
function was one of the prettiest of
the many social events characters
tic of the hospitality of Mrs. Gardi-
ner and Miss Willaume. The guests
present were: the Misses Grace and
Ruth Heating, Stewart, Coates,
Bowers, Young, White and Ran
dali and Mrs Stickler