Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1909-04-14
MEN OF VERSAILLES.
Their FoibIes and .vanities as Con-
spicuous as Those Of the Women.

Men of Versailles had their furbelows
no less pronounced than those the women
wore, according to John Colby Abbotts
Tuileries. Monsieur lie Marquis" a
| PAPER mache figure, was Mr.. Ahbott's
| assistant in illustrating the costumes that
men of the time made handsome and
the doublets passing was noted" said
Mr.. Abbott, land though the doublet was
succeeded by garments. limiting of the
cessors passed through many variations.
and took on many embellishments and
much ornamentation before reaching the
stage that can be considered the direct
doublet passed, there went with 1t the
broad band of lace or of lace In combina-
ton with stiffiy starched linen worn
around the neck that was reminiscent Of
the Elabethan ruff of England, and neck
wear of the style favored by Charles L.
in that country became popular. These
details of the costume were mostly born
of whims that originated in the minds of
the king. as when, in an idle moment,
Louis XIII. had all the beard removed
from his face. Instantly all the courti-
ers. young and old alike. affected the
to remain long. as it had been for a num-
Der of years. Long flowing locks, grace
fully disposed, naturally or by artificial
means, over the shoulders were counted
things of beauty by the. men of the
time, and gold and silver lace. in bands
and embroideries were used freely and
with little regard for suitability when
ever and wherever in the costume place
could be found for such garniture.
During the regency, owing to the is
suing of the sumptuary laws by Richelieu
the ,magniticence and gorgeousness Of
but they could be called simple only by
comparison with the dressing that had
Immediately proceeded them. and when
Louis XIV came into his own the SPLEEN
n hrOca6pS
turned. The sumptuary laws were put
aside and furbelows took on more ele-
gance than they had ever known The
full skirts of the handsome coats worn
We're distended by the use of rattan and
whalebone in emulation of the pannier
worn by the women of Versailles The
less face remained in favor, and when
Louis XIV. found that the keeping of late
hours was telling on his complexion he
and his courters borrowed again from
wOmen's styles and used rouge and white
wash, and the little black patches on the
face that helped to conceal wrinkles and
pallor. In consequence Louis XIV. when
and white doll. In 1870 after Louis had
been successful in war and had been
named Louis the Triumphant. the sword
became part of court costume, and the
coats worn by the king and his courtiers
took on military aspect.
"In the time of Louis XIV. the wig was
donned. when the king found his hair
becoming thinner. This wig was white.
being of light hair. powdered. and was
thought to lend to the face a certain
youthfulness inasmuch as it could be
counted a head of hair prematurely gray.
Yet all the time, mems costumes were
approaching more nearly the sort favored
today as could be seen by one who
watched all the signs. Gradually the
furbelows and the fripperies subsidized or
became simplifed. Little by little as the
time of the French revolution drew near.
1t was felt that it would be wisdom on
the part of the court to display in dress
taste similar to that which pervaded the
attire of the people. Plain clothes and
colors were adopted, velvets and en-
broideries passed permanently out of
favor and at the time of the revolution
the matter of dress for men had evolved
the prototype of the costumes men wear
today.
Next week at his lecture which will
conclude the series Of three on "Foibles
and Furbelows of the Past Mr.. Abbott
will tell of Colonial Dressing in
America"