davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02

all exorbitnnt, particularly IL the feathers
furnished are 10 good condition. The
hnndsOmest hats this season are trimmed.
Tot with willow plumes, however, hut
With slpcrb natural plumcs having cN-
trnordlnnry long. thick ends. and hats
bearing these feathers ore priced often
Mt 500 aud $500. The handsomest os-
trich feathers come from the male bird
the second quality coming from the
female. The best plumes are taken from
the tnil md wings. the smaller feathers
going into boas. stocs and the Ike.
PicturesupcncSs the Autumn MIL
lincry Feature.
The Bertha hat Of molrc SILK. and other
models from important French houses
prove by their simplicity and charm how
absurd Is this er0spiug after effects be-
yond the reach OF ones pockctboO&. Many
delightful models nrc shown. both I'm Paris
and America. which even the home mil.
liner could COPY very Satsfnctorilv so
simple are the trimmings. even when the
hats are intended for dressy wear Many
Of the most beautiful models owe their
chief distinction TO their picturesque
shapes, the trimming consisting only OF
velvet band or bow. or a big shlrrcd
crown caught at one side under some or
nImcnt or other; ora pretty notion
clusters Of tiny. old-iu0hloucd poslcs like
moss roses. hellotropes aud the Ike.
tucked against the crown
While the big, hiSb-crowncd turbnn
with Its fur brim and Outstanding brush
or cockade Is the acknowledged headgcar
for morning and shopping wear, the oft-
tcrnocD hat In which Que attends the
matinee. makes visits or drops IN at a
smart tea room. must be more along pic
ture lines. Eut in order that the picture
may lie pleasInGly correct Just the right
slant Of brlm md height Of crown must
he obtained. Given these important char.
octeriSuCS. the nat may bc iusi us hecom-
iug banded With II scarf and bow OF vol
vet, as cclpSed under hmdTcd.dollar
shower of plumes. A lovely hat seen at
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02
The New Far

dimensions OF the vew chapeaux-
Moirc Silk the Fuvorite Millinery
Stuff.
Whereas n twclvcmonth ago the silk
manufacturers were tearing their hair
over tncir inability TO furnish bengnlino
silk fast enough to supply the milliners.
they arc now in the some old predica-
mcnt over moire. The whimsies OF Mls-
tresS Mode do seem to cause a deal OF
trouble 10 the staid manufacturers who
plod perSistcntly In her wilful wake; and
no sooner do they catch up with her and
flood the retail market with the fabric
designated by her capricious wand than
Pouf.-o1 she 0its again TO touch some
thing else into brief popularity
Moiro silk Is she ladys momcntnry
fancy at present md this lustrous fabric
With Its Skinner OF water rlpples through
the siikcn weave has been lifted TO the
very pinnacle OF modishness. A moirc bat
by Bertha has been photographed for to-
days page md not only does this grnce-
ful model show the favor for molrc ns
q covering and trimming; but IL hints
also at the coming shape which will shade
the eyes md be tilted up at the back
In fashion VIC all thought we had for
gotten, but whlcG We remember now that
Paris Is revivlng II 10 have been a style
distinctly bewitching In type.
Brims Turned up mt the Back Soon.
This interesting hat by Bertha ia so
simple In lite trimming that II offers de-
ceptlve possibilities OF initiation TO tho
ambitious homo mllllner. But however
simple the Trimming may be, the big
shape betrnyS n master skill. The brlm
slants In an ordinary mushroom effect
over the fnee Ia front and Mt tho sides,
and the upward movement begins so
gradually that the back IL sharply fattcu-
cd up against the crown before one
knows It. The achievement OF such n
shape without any harsh lines takes
genius In the millinery art
SILK MORE in new bronze green color
covers the entire shape. facing of vel
vet being added under the brim. a Dat
fold Of the moire extending over the vel
vet two Inches from the edge of the
hrim. The crown, built over high
foundation, Is shlrred oD thick cords aud
Is drawn 10 one side of tho hat. whore a
pleated cocknde of the molre SILK holds
the shlrring IN place. There IL another
OF these plc1tcd bows at the back OF the
brim-the only trimming ut this point.
The P1entcd Cocknde In Fan SHINE.
Every year some milllner inyents a
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02
Last Years Hat Hopelessly Passe Crowns
Tower Sky High An Old Fashion Re-
vived by Bertha The New Fan
Cockade- Feather 7 Trimmings.

- HE WINTER hat proposition "a
~ tho absorbing interest now, Until
~ this all-important question Is set
w tied there can be no peace of mind
for womnnI-ind. The thing is 10 the
air-ns well as occupying the center OF
the stage Ia the shop wlndows-and from
the siS-year-old who pleads for a fed
dar" on her Sunday chnpeaux to Great
Aunt Marie, who appeals wistfully "do
tell me whnt can do to my winter bon
net to bring it In style" fcmIninity is
diseased by this vital problem.
Some of the big Russian turbans which
arc the crnze In Paris now have crowns
-er II Inches high These hats are jam
med down over the cOihure so far that
one does not realize how very high they
nrc. the head being pushed up half WY
into the towering crown. The broad brim-
med hats also, which one secs OF IN after
noon In the Bois and at the smart tea
places. have these very high crowns made
Of ehirred md corded silk or velvet,
with plumes or aigretteS towering aloft.
Once one becomes used TO tall hats there
Is really a charm and dash to them which
is altogether lacking In the Ant head
gear.
In fnct the very first thing to do now
IN considering tho winter hat question is
% discard incontiDeDuy all remnants of
last winters bcadgear. Most OF us own
to a sneating propensity to treasure up
the shape that proved 10 becoming and
eatisfactory-oud represented also such
q substantial sum on tho tab ddo OF the
cheek rkbook-hopiog against hope that our
old familiar friend may by some manlpu-
hthn OF other be whipped into an ac-
cord With new style notions The only
part OF last yenr's hnt. however, that
moy by any DecroDnocy OF home nil.
noery DO made to "do" this winter Is
tho brim- Crowns arc SO entirely differ
ent from the pancake and cnrtwbecl ef-
fccts OF LAST winter that the only thing
TO do Is TO strip OF the crown entirely
and add ono In the new towering shape.
This IS by no mems a hopeless task, for
thS now hats are almost nll built with
separate crowns which rcst on the wide
brims several inches outside Of the head
opening. In fact q normal crown. bt-
ting the size or tho head In diameter.
would look ridiculously small today.
when compared With the overwhelming
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02
GTznn2l7@3 02aDresg
GTC CCZeScSORZHg2G

TIT has been q foregone conclusion
that tho new fall conts. with their
low openings and long npcls, would
p bring 10 all sorts of dniuty jabots
and ties. The Deckwear counters are
Iairy abloom with pretty things for
rresheDiDg up the between seasons toll
iefte and for making one spic and span
Tor crisp fall weather Given really
smart new hnt, foultless gloves and O
fresh. modish bit Of neckwear. even last
years suit may pnss mustor very credit,
ably through the fall days-or at least
until ono has had tlmo to turn around
and select the new costume at leisure.
Ino Dutch and etou collnrs are prom.
Hed renewed popularity through tho
W>ntcr senson. but 1t Is not likely that
toese low-Dcck dressings will survive
tue nrSt touch OF really cold weather.
LOT there is something bare and undrcssed
ABOUT The neck In Dutch collar. worn
w1tn heavy coat on u cold day. Wom-
hnkind also dearly loves q cLapco-anv
change, and for that reason nIone the
pendulum Of favor Is likely To swing
across to the tidy, trim. high stock for
aotumn wear. This VIII mean tho oro.
" nv" uerhHeIr To tqEg the
pace OF the low collars worn with ann.
mer shirtwnists, and several belpful hint.
ure given to the woman who likes In ron.
trivc these dainty bits of prettiness win
her own fingers.
6louses opening toward one side have
started the fad for onc-sidcd iabots md
TWO OF these new Jabot effects arc
shown. the friIls In each Instance bc,nr
wider on the left side. strap Of I,lsb
OF cluny Insertion forms the ccutor ~
Such 1abot, perky bow OF sco ar
p'cateh muslin being set ot tho ron
Down the left side goes plented fr,lIE
or TWO frills-of very nno batlste edged
Wild lace and down the opposite aide
toy frill. just as finish. Tboao
)aoots Will be worn with the new conta.
opening low over the breast, the snovvv
iriils peeping out between the cont Ian.
els Lace jabots will also be use1 for
drcssy wear in the afternoons and. i.
lace 1nbot lis attached to a high Io.o
stock, with perhaps d smart bow n, tho
front "'Neu iu
Another pretty stock Of finely plco,od
"u'te lawn shows jaunty nccktie. Lnot.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02
The FIOIre SILK Hat

black hats are vorJtable dreams with
thelr airy puliiugS OF black malinc, mcssef
of splendid black plumes, and high lights
OF jet ornament
The Brittany Sailor.
4 new sailor which younger women
Will wear with even very drcssy street
suits. bls made Its appearance ON tifth
avenue This Is a widc-brlmmed model
OF beaver strip with little curl To tue
bT,m ali around Ike She hats OF IL IL
tauy peasants. a crown of plG W 1t
matching the beaver brln Is banded -
wide mOlrc scarf with sDaSbing Iis
bow. or perhaps thcre are bands D. vel
.yet, caught TO the edge OF the brhu with
steel c;huchora 4 very smart Brittany
sailor lad a felt crown ~ pale taE. with
brim of HEAVIER strip . w blue, aud
navy blue velvet Ribbon 10 crossed In
two strips over The top OF the hat tie
strips bclug held by three round dull sn-
yer ornaments.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02
The Sewing Machine.

~ HE hardest thing TO regulate about
n your sewing machine is its tension.
VI 1t must not be too tight nor too
loose and should be screwed up or down,
as the case may be- with curc.
Use n fold of the material, you ore
working on. instead of hcm or seam, 10
experiment with.
Thread the mnohlne with sIls or thread
appropriate to the gown you are moklug.
For example, SILK thread With SILK ma-
terinl, cotton with cotton
Shorten or lcngthen your stitch ns de-
sired; II &c draws. the tension should bc
made looscr. Sometimes 1t is the upper,
and sometimes the lower. thread that
pulls Find out which before attempting
To adjust the tension
A loosely Sewed scam IL more service
able than one too tightly sewn, as the
latter VIII snap and tear at the slightest
provocatIon. In sewing SILK goods all
seams require the loosest possible ten.
sion This is also true In sewing chIGons
aud thin goods Seams on which there
is strain viii give more II scwed Loose
ly. The beginner should In fact avoid
n tight tension and should use II only
upon tho advice OF an experienced sewer.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02

ted crisply In front and extending around
the bnSe OF the stock. Much of the
smartncss OF this necktlo lies In the
way II is tied, the short loops being
pulled up together first and the ends
twisted around them and knolted, In
stead OF bowknot being made In the
usual fashion. Jet buttons, sewed to
the ends Of the tie. keep them ant aud
also form n novel finish.
There can scarcely be too nnnv frcsb
attractive stocks 10 the dresser drawer
or the pcrfumed neckwcar box In which
these dainty trilcs are kept, for an i'm
meculnte and tasteful neck dressing dis
ungnishes the lady as no other fcnturc
OF raiment-excopt possibly footwear
can do. There should he stocks for
shopping aud general morning wear,
dressy stocks for afternoon use, and
extra pretty neck arrangements for tbose
Inevitable occasions when a dinner or
luncheon Invitation calls for something
specially attractive on short notice Sev-
crnl fancy stocks are illustrutcd: two
trimmed with velvet ribbon In new yyovs
and ono showing an entirely novel mr..
rnngcmeDt OF little butterfly bows mr..
ranged on n jabot strip OF Irish inser-
uon' The most satisfactory ncckweor.
however. IL tho sort that NAV be oosuy
Numbered, for dnioty neckwcar costs a
pretty bit Of pin money. and the periob.
able sorts. which must either be rippcd
apart To he cleaned or discarded aftcr n
Few wcarinss, are n most extrnyapnnt
Investment
The most satisfactory stocks ;ust now
ar" made OF embroidered linen and rho
strong. beautiful Irish lace which is so
very fashionable. Irish lace mny ba
washed out In ones room. bIued Tho
slightest trl1e and pinned out Dot on
pillow, and In few hours the stock mr.
collar VIII be ready to put oil. Corc
should be taken to keep Irish lace nuro
white. 1t has tendency to turn vel.
'ow' which often spollS Its effect on
sPotlessly white blouscs Every now and
tnen the small belongings OF Irish lace
should be dipped In warm, soapy water
nod spread out on n towel In a mnny
%lhuow for several hours, This bleach.
ing process will do much 10 keen tbe
iucc as beautifully white as tbough
p'epehcd on Irish grass.
LUIS year. again, there ie 4 fancy for
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02

the Plaza the other afternoon With coat
aud skirt suit of blue vclvetcen WAS a
big mushroom model of biscuit coorcd
MORE covered with chontiliy lace. the
brIm caught up Just back OF The LETT tenn
pie With a roscttc OF blue velvet bands
of the vclvot passing around the crown.
Some Of the big felt shapes. curlel up
GaShinsly at one side aud with huge
put'ed crowns OF velvet, nre Immensely
becoming, especially when they cnrIy oat
the color harmony OF thc frock. Such
hat worn With trls little two.piecc suit
on Fifth avenue the othcr DAY. was OF
sapphire blue felt, the crown OF velvet In
the same shade belue H,ted nt one side
by n blnck nigrct,c which cmnnutcd from
Il biz round Jet ornament
Strip beaver Is very fashionable ana
huge hats wlth brlms OF the beaver and
velvet OF molre SILK crowus 10 match arc
very drcssy and alwost Invariably Gecom.
Ing even when quite simply trimmed
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02
Fashion Notes.
CARVED SHELL HATPINs A PARI,
FAD.

FAD.
N UEER bug effects carved from am
a her shell nre the hutplu fnvoritcS now
" In Pnrls. Drngon6Ics. moths and
even the clumsy Egyptian scarnbcaus nre
shown, and sometimes bodies or wines
are dclicntely tinted One hatpin shows
a scnrabcauS three inches long the body
colored brillinnt green the wings being
deiicntely cnrycd from the shell AS the
hats grow In size the hntpIus grow with
them, and some or the French designs
are aeSurdly conspicuous mud monstrous
For more conservative tasto there nre
dainty cabuchon pins set with sunken
turGuoises. and odd art nouyeou effects
In dull silver set with rhInestoncs
A PERFUMED AMULET.
M Paris one may purchase pretty lit.
tie violctcoIored omulets that are sun
posed to give good luck as well az
sweet perfume. The tiny amulet is I'm
the shape or four.lenved clover npd
cmits an odor OF violet and orrls. Each
amulet is attached TO a violet ribbon
and the little cbnrm is 10 be pinned TO
the top of tic corset.
nLUmISATED TABLE CENTERs.
~ HE hostess whose home Is wired for
x electric lights hns at her command
w oil sorts Of artistic dinner table Of.
fccts There nrc clusters OF grapes. which
when the light is turned on become
glowing. translucent globes OF color.
there are peaches aud strawberries, look.
Ing, when lighted MP, as natural as real
ones These Illuminated fruits urc set In
the center OF the tube. the electric cur.
rent belog connected by mems OF wiring
which passes through small hole In the
toblecloth n1d a simllur hole bored
through the table OF course the woman
owning handsome mahogany table Will
be loosh TO hive II defaccd for the soIe
of an illuminated cluster OF cherries At
her dinner party, but for small tables
where luncheon IL served TO number
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02

Flowers used in natural effects will not
lac much sccn-throuah the carly portion
OF the season. NJ least Where they arc
used. they arc In unconventional colorings
ana prc set high al the side Of the bat
os sitter trimmings would be used; OF
nrc clustered In litt,c set bCncacs
The flower trimmed hat Illustrated Is a
berry red moIrc model. fnced With velvet
OF darker shade and trimmed with huge
poppies md leaves In browns, berry tones
and deep purple.
Lace With Fur.
Lace Is slowly hut surely hc!nF revived
as millinery fabric. aud this wlHtcr
lace viii lac combined With the fGrry ma-
tcrIas which arc SO fashionable. BlGcs
mallue also is seen on black hats. md.
by the way, never were SO maay stunning
al bl0cE models being sent over as are
coming now in the big wooden mliliuc?'s
boxes from Paris. Some Of these huge
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02

try covers showing Gorlnnds and fcstooas
and the pretty little baskets ot roses
which aboJnded I'm the Louis epoch. y
set of Jocobenu furniture wgs shown the
other day In 4 window on Broadway. aud
In contrast to the gladstone Siit rococco
effects, the heavy cauvlnrS aud somac5
wood were truly suggestive of Gle gruc-
some reign of terror which put an cad
to the irresponsible Louis times
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02
4 people the eject Is charming.
FURNITURE PERIODS FOLLOW
CnSIIlIlNS

70 oW that the dressmakcrs are display
ms Louis Nv. frocks and hats rs
L authoritative Indications OF what Is
coming the furniture shops are mnl,ins i
brave show OF gay roCocco chats and
tables, wi;h carved gilt frames and tapes.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02

the fluffy neck bows of Illusion. or mn-
line and these niry bows tucked be
meath the cbln, are bewltchingly bccon-
Ing. The mnllno bow. OF course. matohcs
the hat 10 color; or, better still. il may
be oll whitc-the most becoming style.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02
SCRAMBLED FISH.

Beat up three eggs. add one tablespoon
ful OF cream or milk. season with pepper
and salt Melt two ounces OF butter Iu
a Stewpan, nnd 10 this ndd two or three
ounces OF 1aked Ash (any white Gsh irec
from skin and bone Will dol. fry fop n
few seconds ard then add the eggs. Stlr
well over tue FIRE until the mixture thick
Gus, and serve very bot piled up OF
pieces OF hot buttered toost
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02
The italian Polcptn-

m NE OF the greatest dishes OF the
A AB Italians Ii ''poleuta They often
" serve II to guests. but 1t IS nothing
more than cornmcal mush. one OF the
dishes OF our forcfathers, yet always one
OF the best Ia the winter.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02
PADDOCK BALLS.

Stew some dried haddock In milk until
the flesh comes easily away from the
skin pound It well In n mortar aud mly
with It one tablespoonful OF breadcrumbs.
piece of butter. little cayonuc.
and the yolE OF an egg Nix thoroughly.
ana form into small balls: roll each bali
in the white OF the egg. cover with bread
crumbs. and Try In boiling Fat until
golden brown color Droin carefully
on paper aud serve OH small rounds OF
fried bread. GarnlSh With parsley
KIDNEYS AND BACON.
Take four Sleeps kidneys. one tnblc-
spoonful of bacon fat. n little pepper,
aud one ounce OF butter Put the bucon
fat Into n saucepan which will hold the
Kidneys. and VIXEN it boils put them IN
whole and skinned Turn them twice in
II minutes and when nicely Drowned
take them up, cut each open, sprinkle a
little pepper over, put a piece OF butter
on each, and serve very hot With rashcrs
Of bucon.
SAVOURY ONELETTE.
Bcat up three or four eggs with one
csscrtspoOnful OF parsley very timely
minced, season with pepper nnd
salt. Put two ounces OF butter 10 .hc
Omelettc pans ms soon as II is melted.
pour In the egg mixture. Stir It with
shallow spoon, and do rot cease scoopIus
1t from the sides aud bottom until IL is
getting set. Mix in the butter ms you do
SO; II must never stick To the pan. II
should be soft aud not quite set when
YOU slide 1t gently into hot dish Re
careful not 10 leave lt too long before
you cease stirring. or the omelettc will
be as tough ms leather.
BAKED NACKEREL.
Two small mackerel. 0llctcd. Cut each
nlet In two pieces. and put In Hre-
proof dish which has been buttered.
Dust With pepper aud salt and sprinkle
with litte lemon juice. Cover with
bnttcred paper, and bake in u moderate !
oven Tor Is minutes, Serve plain, or
with parsley sauce poured over
EGG OUTLETS.
Cut hard boiled eggs into thick slices.
dip them In egg aud brcodc.umbs. which
have been seasoned with pepper. suit aud
o pinch OF dried parsley, Huvc a iittlc
butter IN ees frying pau, urd let elic eggs
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02
Some Breakfast Dishes.

cook two minutes on one side, turn them
on the other aud flush. When taken
from the pan, lay them before the Gre
on white paper TO nbsorb the grease.
Serve little thic!lcncd gravy round
them.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-10-02

Cut hard boiled csEs Into thick slices.
dip them In egg aud breNdc:umbs, which
have bccn seasoned with pepper. suit aud
pinch or dried parsley, Huvc fttlc
butter 10 sb9 frying pau. urd let tbc eggs