Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1909-01-27

New York, Jan. zl.--What is broadly
designated as the empire line is
gradually being heightened and
/ shaped into curve which Americans
assert ia neither of Vienna nor OF
| Paris, but an adaptation of their own
| While this viii be a matter of regret
TO some women, the majority have
found disadvantage in the extreme
empire effect, from the fact that it
tended to increase their size. This,
however, is true only of those with
large hips, the line otherwise being
undeniably graceful and having the
charm of novelty.
The new suggestion win undoubt-
cdly appeal more generally, for there
is neither the tendency toward the
long. slanting line which the pure en-
pir. gives. nor the sharply accented
curve of the older fashions: rather A
medium is struck between the two,
which Is happier than either in its re-
suits. To accomplish this new line
there must be either an under-arm
section, or the under-arm seam must
be placed farther back, which means
that the back section is narrowed and
| the front widened. For a stout per-
son the insertion of the under-arm
piece is the better method The new
effect is easily gained by trimming
| devices, so that should it hold another
season, the present styles may be cas-
! lily and satisfactorily altered.
A change of line thus. far is most
noticeable in outside garments, partic-
ularly in the separate wrap. AS an
example, long coat of heavy black
evening wear is semi-fitted and dou
ble-breasted, fastening across at the
waist, a long shawl collar giving a
surplice effect The back, under
Meath the arms, laps over the front in
scroll line, which is covered with a
down-turned loop at the center, which
emphasizes the heightened effect men
tion,d above.
In this coat the sleeves show a note
of novelty. They are high and small
at the top. without a suggestion of
! fullness. meeting the body portion as
If they were cut in one with it, yet in
such manner as could not be OBJ
tanned were this the case From
shoulder to waist they show a DELHI
crate slant of the inside seam, and a
! clinging curve on the outside.
Sometimes the underarm section or
the back, when there is not sepa-
rate under-arm section, juts out so
| that tho tfnpar rnrfion +hot ;c ,,ndar
the arm. fits smoothly, being cut with
either the front or back; while the
lower section. which Is cut with the
| other, either front or back, shows a
slight fulness where it is attached to
the upper piece.
Empire Line Modified.
i Already, in the Princesse effects.
i the empire line is modified, usually by
its scheme of trimming. as there is a
decided tendency toward more elab-
crate back.decorations A black
broadcloth that attracts considerable
attention has the back and front trim
men alike in yoke garniture of satin
embroidery cut with deep points, from
which hang long black silk tassels at
each of the four sides. This yoke
outline extends up at the center to a
sharp point, the embroidery being
slightly draped From underneath
there appears a narrow panel of en-
broidery that matches the bands.
This panel extends the length of a
long box plat in back, and of an in
verted one in front with the lower
edge slashed in points in line with
those of the top garniture. The dress
itself is princesse cut, curving to
the normal waist line after the latest
manner.
! Despite evidences OF coming chang
es, the vogue of transparent yokes and
sleeves holds as firmly as ever. For
anything approaching formal dress
the tucked sleeves. long, closefitting,
untrimmed, of chiffon. net, or of silk
or satin OF the gown color. are first
favorites. Where the sleeves are OF
either Of the latter materials, il is not
at all necessary that the yoke should
be the same, although a tunic yoke is
frequently inserted with one OF chit
fon or mousseline or whatever the
other fabric may be,
In coats marked attention is given
TO side trimmings. and ma1y unique
developments are noticed In most OF
them there are two lines of decora
ton which. originating from different
points, finally run side by side, or to
gether, to accent the desired shaping
of the garment, terminating below the
waist line. or what stands for It, IN
some of the longer models this effect
is obtained by leaving the portion be.
low the waist line plain by contrast
r Occasionally, 1t is the other way
around, and the top is plain. with all
the elaboration on the skirts. One
secs about as many collarless necks
and goodly smattering of military eff
fects
A Striking Suit.
OF striking originality is tailored