Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-24
Does the Partisan DreSSn1aker Devote
Especial Thought to the American Woman? !?

They are splendid copyists, much more
clever than the French, and they can
make dress, as far as the actual sewing
and putting together, far better than the
Partisan dressmakers. 1t is because we
know so well how to copy models thar
they are of the greatest value to us.
10 my mind Nine. Cheruit is our
greatest creator for women in this coun-
| try, Her establishment on the Place
Vend0me is eagerly sought by Americans.
She herself is u thorough artist in dress.
She loves it dearly, and all her models
are made for her own use, if she desires
to wear them.
"There are long graceful lines about
her gowns that attract the American
woman Immediately, and the fabrics she
uses are the most exquisite that can be
obtained. Her models express dignity
as well as beauty, a combination that is
specially suited to our women.
"Callot is the most feminine of all the
fashion creators. Her models are ex-
quisitoy beautiful and she is a thorough
artist in producing dashing color COM
blnations. Women who buy their own
dresses in Paris will often prefer Callot's,
but when they are having models copied
here they are apt to select something
from Cheruit.
Callot and Cheruit in lines. While Che
ruit's are more often rather straight and
long, Callot'S run around. This feature
makes them charming for young girls or
girls who are just out. Her evening and
dinner dresses possess u daintiness and
airiness that are seldom found elsewhere
in Partisan designs and is decidedly diff
cult to reproduce artistically.
"Paquin makes, her models for thin
women. They are often eccentric und
difficult to adapt, but she is a wonderful
master of color combination, and fire.
Quently the whole effect of an attractive
model will depend entirely on bold
touch Of color used in pure Partisan
way, one which can seldom be success.
fully initiated by any one else
Understands American Women.
,, "Dreeoll is another who understands
the American woman and her taste.
Models from this house are always in
) 'cluded in the lot that one brings over. AMI
they are always good sellers. Redfern
dresses royalty for the most part, and his
costumes are too imposing and elaborate
for American women. They all have
their individuality, as l said before, some
fbeing better suited to our demands than
Others, but we could not possibly get on
without the suggestions they embody in
lines as well as in fabrics and combina-
tons"
OF quite the opposite opinion from
either OF these dressmakers is Mr.. Cream,
OF Cream II Co, No. 26 East Thirty-third
street, New York.
II American dressmakers and artists
were not afraid to try making models for
our own use they could do it quite as
sa tsfactorily as the French. The French
models are only about seventy-fve per
cent French and twenty-five per cent
American. Why not make models that
are wholly American, by Americans and
for Americans? There is no reason for
not doing so, because we have Just as
good designers over here as they have in
Paris, and if we couldA get the same
advantages from the manufacturers we
could turn out models possessing all the
smartness and beauty that characterize
the French creations of to-day.
The American woman is the best
dressed woman in the world, and she
lspends more money than cny other ma
tion. She would quite as willingly spend
her money here if she could get what
she wants as TO spend It. IN Paris, where
on account of the high taiiff on gowns.
"At the present time American buyers
spend more money in Paris than buyers
from any other country, and realizing
the value of our custom, the Partisan
gives us his very best.
Sometimes Americans suggest changes
which are profitable to the French, and
that is why / say twenty-five per cent
of the models are American. We drop
a few words about altering a line here
or using another color there, and the
French see instantly that the sugges-
ton is good, if It is good, and the next
time the model is made up these changes
are incorporated"