The Salt Lake herald-Republican. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1909-1918, 1909-09-19
BY NINE. SAVARIE.

dis aus ANs 4ru'H
Descriptions of even a small portion
of the new coats, cloal1s and wraps for
fall and winter would fill this entire
fashion edition But in all the multi
rude of models two features stand out
prominently. One is that all coats are /
longer than ever. The other is that
the shapeless "stovepipe" model Of last
winter has gone down before an on
rushing army Of ample, shapely mod
els.
The average length OF the new suit
coat is AZ inches OF longer. That of
the separate coat is nearly if not quite
10 the bottom Of a walking length skirt
Many new models in separate coats
have plaits below the waist line But
unlike the coats of Louis II, upon
which they are modelled, these new coats
do not "set out" Instead they hang
quite soft and fiat. This effect IS
heightened by using only the softest
of Innings, and by very superior tailor
ing. In some of the more elegant mod
els the satin Innings in coats stop at
the waist line. and the rest of the coat
is lined only with chiffon.
There are so many complete gowns
being worn in very soft fabrics that
long separate coats viii play more
important role than for many years.
The increased width of the skirt por-
tons of coats is due of course to the
fact that dress skirts are all so much
wider about the foot. The coat waist
line is again at the normal waist line
and there is an increasing tendency to
shape both suit and separate coats so
that although semi-fitting only as yet,
they do outline the curves of the fig
IRE more than last season. In the coat
showing plaits, these in some cases are
below the hips and in other models are
below the waist line at the back.
A popular model has a habit back cut
in one with the coat sides to form big
oblong pocket pieces. Below these peck
cts the coat is plated when the fabric
is light enough in weight and gathered
when it is heavier. There are single
breasted coats and doUble-breasted
coats. Some coats fasteu in Russian
blouse fashion far to one side. Practi-
cally all coats have collars and are
closed fairly high in front.
The collar is the chief decorative fea-
ture OF this seasons coat. There are
many shawl collars, and some Of these
are Of two materials fancifully COM
bined. a new collar has a shawl roll in
front that looks especially jaunty with
the new Napoleonic hat.
Buttons are large and decorative, but
not many are used on any one gar
ment, and only when they look as if ac-
tually needed to fasten something, eth
or fronts, pockets, cuffs or collar Some
of the best Paris houses are using jet
buttons, but in America the Jet but
ton craze got such Roadway last sea-
son they are not likely to be used save
when combined with something else. For
example, a big jet center with cut steel
outer edge is new and handsome. You
are sure to see in America many vari-
atoms Of the Florentine coat This is
a plated garment, cut on semi-fitting
lines. and one of those wardrobe neces-
sites" something that looks smart, but.
is yet practicable for the average purse
and general wear
For those who are never quite ready
to take the newest thing, there are of
course coats and coats that are not
plated. The model / like best in the
non-plaited coats is known as THE
siennese." which has the upper back
shirred into belt and the lower part
perfectly plain. like a-habit-baok. And
there b. an uncommon number Of sensi-
Die details in the new models. For
Example. not only are there collars on
fhe coats such az one might look for in
eold weather garments but has not al