davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1909-09-12
FOR THE OPENING DAYS OF SCHOOL

panel Of her bodice. which extends
down. The skirt IL also fastened to
the bodice or cuirass under the sash
at the sides and back. Even the sash
II copied. as well as the up-and-down
figure, which. fortunately. In this in
stance required no making.
The second child Is frocked in plaid.
the early autumn favorite. It il . green
and blue. worn with a blue coat most
simply made. Tho hat. built on tam-o'-
shanter lines suggestive OF the prevail
ing soft crown. Is a green shirred taneta
with a blue-tasseled scarf.
The dear child in the middle wears
hat Of tan-colored felt with brown
polka-dotted crown made OF a scarf.
This matches her brown serge frock.
which Is q most practical model. Its
attraction lies In the scallops. which
overlap from the sides on to the front
panel. a reversal Of the usual method.
The cuffs. scalloped also. are reversed.
tapping up from underneath.
The fourth. the little tot with the
much-turned-up hat. wears an ideal
model for Tubing purposes-just the
dress to develop in natural-colored linen
with q scarlet sash. The sash pulls out
and the dress may be tossed into a tub
without It. A smaller sash OF scarlet is
worn on the hat.
Now the two little girls below! The
smaller wears q coat OF deep rose, but
toned and bound with velvet to match.
A very dressy child 10 this one. Her
hat is black satin with a crown OF pink.
blue and black. The dress on the older
child is q green serge model and another
medieval adaptation showing a long
scalloped panel effect buttoned fast
wherever q green serge button may be
used. This youthful sash is OF black
satin. even as older sashes are. and the
hat, q champagne with q dark-green vel
vet crown. boasts two gilt ornaments.
Guimpes are used with some OF these
frocks. but linen usually Is substituted
for net, which Is a little too old for
children. Simplicity should mark the
school outfit always.
Evening star., 1909-09-12
Soft Surfaces

T is predicted by those who are wise
concerning materials that crepe
= weaves will have a great vogue, and
this prophecy seems to be borne out by
the more beautiful gowns Of the year.
1t is certain that satin in any case will
not be nearly SO popular as last year.
Lustrous silks have been SO much worn
that women seem to have tired Of them
and. for a change. turned to the dulIer
though still supple materials.
Crepe de chine will probably prove the
most satisfactory Of the handsomer ma
terlaIs. Tor It Is SO pliable that 1t may
be used for the many draped effects %
s6h x0eue ana At the same time It Is heavy
GROUND the figure. 1t Is also a material
cries. and 1t combines well with all kinds
OF Iacs. new material also promises
70 make its appearance during the sea-
son son to to come. This is satin, but without
tofore possessed. It is called peach
biow satin. for the surface is not per-
fectly smooth. but is slightly downy.
Ike the skin Of peach.
Evening star., 1909-09-12

= distance. even a slight distance. it
can easily be mistaken for satin or
some SMOOTH faced silk.
AS to shape. 1t is about the same a.
the jersey of other times. save that It
hooks down the sides and. instead OF
being plain. 1t is quite elaborately deco
rated. Beautifully embroidered and even
beaded jerseys may be purchased READY
made. They are intended to wear over
a pleated skirt or else with some pieated
material attached to the lower edge. A
Jersey OF this kind forms three-auarters
OF q dress. and the home dressmaker
need only add a pleated rutiie to obtain obtain
= s,y5Io gown OF real beauty ana aA'o'''sD
s'K.si TO be expected that the jersey
a,.riai will be used for other gar
ments and sready t has spJRearsed, ss,,ss as
blouse. sometimes It y tucked and even
pieated. so 1t has lost the irst signih-
Canoe OF the word jersey. Only the
weave remains to remind us of the gar
ment that went out Of style so long ago.
Evening star., 1909-09-12

OMING schooldays and tne
plain but pretty clothes they
necessitate call forth our IN
terest and some sympathy TOT
the mother who has more than one "
dress and plan for.
There's a true story OF iho'n
Of FIVE daughters. who. when sne a.
lowed them eight big or little oTesseS
apiece. counted forty garments huns
on hangers. A veritable snop, On
opening" 1t seemed to her when tney
were accomplished. Eight frocKs Is
not an extravagant allotment OF tuo
dresses; but. fortunately for such
"heavy providers" the wash dress -
not an autumn necessity.
Many French dresses for school
children are made OF worsted weaves'
and they are now permissible for even
the fairly young child. The wnire
guimpe saves the situation here as
in the older gown.
Jeanette Hope has sent over
Paris sketch that proves the oft-re-
peated assertion that children are but
miniatures Of their mothers. or. IN
deed. that 1--WE are but children older
grown"
Let fashion-makers repeat; 1t will not
be frowned down so long as they revise
and adapt to insure suitability.
The youthful hats on these pretty
children are q case In point; they show
exactly what has been accepted or -
being worn on older heads. The
cavalier shape Is strong. and Wnen
thus slightly trimmed cannot oe OBJ
iected to The popular scarf and the
full crown are likewise in evidence;
sketch is dressed in blue and black
a blue serge soutached with black
and she is little image of her moth
er, or of "auntie" perchance. She IL
pleated skirt fastened to the front
Evening star., 1909-09-12
rench ashton
Notes
PARIS. Sept. ..

NaE srdQuai evolution OF fashion
is an interesting study to those
l. who stand within the shadow OF
the great modistes. To these
Iortunates each detail of style has an
origin. for even the most powerful can
not. with one giant step. move at will
from the existing styie to one Of an
entirely different character.
Each fashion can only be brought
about by series of moves, maybe
quite small. maybe relatively large.
ana frequently traceable to even
unforeseen. Sleeves grow small and
large. but never have they suddenly
lumpeo from one size to the other:
and the directoire periods t. the
angel wings popular about 1892. We
may return to the same style again.
put IT must be along the same way
monstrosities that we finally attained
In this way each step OF fashion
may be followed. IL not wholly fore
seen The tight gowns of last year. to
pc becoming, We're forced to possess
straight lines, which were empha-
sized by the addition of a scarf hang
ing straight from the shoulders. The
popularity OF the scarf for this pur-
the tight gown with draped overdress
of scarf material. soon following and
suggesting the lines of the Middle Ages.
and the style Of 1880. when the scarf was
last part OF the everyday costume.
Between these two the future hangs
undecided. Which style will prevail?
Sometimes the weather Of one place In
fluences the fashions of the world. This
may be noticed in regard to the present
hat possibilities. Large hats have been
great summer favorites. Women like
them. for they are. becoming to the ma
jority and they allow Of the elaborate
couture that woman, since Marie An
tolnette, has loved. But this last
season in Paris was very remarkable.
The summer was not a summer. 1t
was cold and dreary. Almost every
day was rainy, and even the intrepid
Partisan could not leave the house
without an umbrella. 1t Is easy to
see the effect this must have had
upon the hat situation. Large hats
Evening star., 1909-09-12

could not be worl4 -.l.uer such dePior-
able conditions. Jupiter Pluvius must
be an admirer of toques and turbans,
for he literally forced them into
style And behold the RESULT! ToQues
are talked of with increasing en-
thusiasm and coiffures have dimin-
ished according to the requirements
OF smaller. hats; yet should Inc sun
make up for lost time and shine with
warmth upon the beautiful white
city, the Partisan. for complexion's
sake, will turn again to the larger
hat On such small matters does FASH
ion really depend.
The weather also has been largely
responsible for the Frenchwoman's
recent adoption of the American tai
tornado. The skirts of such suits
are Of comfortable length to wear. no
matter what the weather, so the
Partisan has not hesitated to call
them to her aid during the lust
passed summer of the deluge"
And while the weather and the re.
quirements of the occasion are hav.
ing, a powerful influence upon the
fashions that are. great designers are
sitting In their studios studying over
the fashions TO be. Each fashion re-
quires much thought and worry. vet
even when launched each must be
controlled so much by extraneous cir
cumstances that no one may with GER
tainty predict what style will prevail
during 1910. ELOISE
Evening star., 1909-09-12
Our Corset Story
TOLD EACH WEEK BIZ ONE WHO
KNOWS
BEFORE YOU BUY
ANOTHER .

-HE corset is not death potion.
You will be quite likely to want
another. and 1t will pay you.
therefore, TO get right In toucn
with your corset and your personal neeu
before you buy again. The corset mas
undergone q change, and the inquire no"
has a chance to 60 back to something
like its original self If its owner WIN let
n In this day of the evolution or tne
corset YOU can't afford to buy It lgno-
rantly. to get 1t hit or miss. relying
upon the superior Judgment of one who
saws he knows. In other words, ask Tue
one who really knows.
Now. let yourself be. for brief space
one Of the inquirers. with a written
tale Of corset woe and a lengthy cor
set want, and see what can do to help
YOU. Let me talk to you before you buy
another failure.
You can do quite a number OF tnlngs'
You will have to work out your own
salvation in this. as IN every other mat
ter of importance.
To, make this a person personal thing: II
fitting article of apparel and knew only
that the corset / possessed was not
comfortable. l should. firstly: get some
making tour of inspection and talk
ing corsets to every corsetiere and cor.
set seller in town. l should look long
and hard and explain my difficulties,
because I should first have settled with
myself as to the misfit of my present
garment ! should refuse to be turned
aside or overlooked in the hurly-burly
of even the busiest department store.
II the saleswoman seemed to have for
gotten that she ever wanted to make
a sale. might even remind her that her
employer wanted to sell his wares.
should find a collection of freak cor.
sets and of the most ordinary styles on
Evening star., 1909-09-12
Figures Versus Styles

soft features and fluffy hair. can wear
with safety either stiff. severe hat or
the dropping lingerie. But the woman
who has sharper lines Of the face and
who wears her hair In plain. severe
fashion must eschew the inappropriate
dropping styles. Long faces may be
apparently shortened by wide hats.
Probably the best guide in obtaining
good lines is the golden mean. Avoid
the extreme or the sensational and don't
foolishly rush in where the more sue
cessful dresser fears to tread. Remem-
Der that in following the edicts of any
new style the figure Of the wearer must
be considered. To gain proportion In the
ultimate effect balancing treat
ment Of line is good. And. like a golden
thread recurring at many points. let the
individuality of the wearer be seen IN
the resultant effect.
Evening star., 1909-09-12

the market (they both are there to-
gether). and should well know that
while could not use the craziest among
them. they would teach me points at
which the more ordinary corsets fall
short At the bargain counter. with Its
''rejecteds," ! should find and search
through those ! did not want because
nobody eyer could have wanted them)
and should thereby get little nearer
to the ones did.
Now. having sensibly started out
without my wallet, / should 20 corset
less 10 my home, there to think 1t over
and to sort. within my probably mud
died brain, the facts had gained in my
days journey. There is nothing like the
sorting process for getting "the vision" :"
Like any other subject you want to
master, you will get at II by making
determined effort; but unlike most other
subjects. you are probably densely ig.
GRANT about the corset and not at all
1T TO be intrusted with the purchase OF
one.
Please don't buy until you have be-
come something of a corset expert Gust
IN a mild sort of way). MOI Don't
thank me In advance but wait until you
see how much you've gained by your
journey in the open.
This isn't half as valuable as much
that have given you in "Our Corset
Story" but / have wanted to add this
Car the benefit Of the inquirers.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-07-29
COMPETITION

THREE trade in oil and hides will in
troduce the element of competi-
n ton into two articles associated
with some of the biggest and most
notorious of the trust operations. 1t
may be true that in an ideal state of
society the element of competition will
be eliminated, but mankind is not yet
ready for ideal conditions, and when
high protective duties on articles In
common demand were used not for the
protection of the American markets
and the improvement Of the condition
of workingmen and the public but for
the creation of organizations for the
purpose of misusing protection and taxi
ing advantage Of its restriction of COM
petition, it was time to call halt.
The most effective way in which TO
reach the trusts correctlvely is to give
them competition, AS soon as they
cease to control and regulate the mar
ket and to fix prices their opportunity
for the abuse of their financial power
and manufacturing prestige is abridged
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-07-29
SUPERVISORS

4 N important meeting of the good
II roads advisory committee will be
"a held today and every citizen of Los
Angeles is awaiting with anxiety the
action which will be taken with regard
to the Solid Three supervisors, who are
attempting to produce conditions which
will enable them to go ahead with their
own plans and follow after the devices
of their own hearts in the proverbial
Vanderbiltian spirit.
AS the supervisors, in spite of repudi-
atoms, are pledged to give heed to the
opinions and advice of the advisory
committee and to regard the commit
teemen as the representatives Of the
public, 1t is to be hoped they will not
attempt to use bubbles or egal tech
nicalities for the purpose of lodging
their obligation to keep faith with
the public. The people of Los Angeles
are we'll aware of all the facts In
the case. They remember the lad
visory" stipulation that accompanied
the S3,5OO, 900 bond issue and will not
allow the supervisors TO repudiate the
conditions under which they hold
office.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-07-29
EDUCATION

~ UPERINTENDENT MOORE APP
peals to the public to end the war
~ private enemies of the bonds have
been waging since the bonds were
voted. DR.. Moore says Los Angeles
has reached an alarming crisis In its
educational history, and that this
crisis has been willfully brought about
r. certain interests in Los Angeles.
He says thousands of children will be
excluded from the public schools I'M
less proper and timely provision is
made for them.
Work on new school buildings should
be going on NOW.
1t is not 1t is suspended. School
improvements are at a standstill.
Los Angeles, a rich and prosperous
city, we'll able easily to take care of
all the children who come here with
their parents and expect to receive or
complete their education here, is not
permitted to provide for the children,
VIII the citizens of Greater Los An
geles quietly sit by and allow children
to be robbed of education in order
that spite may be gratified2
We trow not
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-07-29
SCHOOL FRATERNITIES

A TIMELY contribution to magazine
"a literature deals with high school
IA fraternities, which are causing
new and unexpected complication In
the educational life OF the United
States. Educators take the ground
that to belong to a secret society and
to have ones head filled with the ritu-
alistic and other appanages of the
society. as we'll as with the idea of
caste, is the poorest kind of preparation
for American citizenship. This feeling
and the natural fear discipline may
be interfered with are at the root of
the antagonism which has been mani
tested toward high school fraternities
To tell the truth American democracy
is being threatened from dozen differ
ent quarters at once. While not the
slightest systematic effort is being
made to bring up the children of the
nation In the patriotic way they should
go with reference to the first principles
of Americanism, complications of all
kinds are being introduced into what
should be the simple life of the ado
lescent American. The increasing com
plexity of school life is the result of
imitation.
Social and class distinctions and diff
ferences are accepted as the natural
order of things, which are as far remote
from what the natural order of things
should be in the land Of the Declara-
ton Of independence as the east is from
the west And since first principles are
disregarded, scoffed at, repudiated, 1t
is not surprising to find in the school
room the process of characterization
which awaits the graduate the minute
he steps into the world of distinctions
of wealth, distinctions of occupation,
distinctions of society
| The Chicago school board declared
war on the fraternities not because
they were fraternities, but, according
to a writer in Everybody's, because
they found fraternities destroy scholar
ship and disrupt the student body. And
If any good people cannot see that in a
republic like the United States social
and financial distinctions have a tend
ency to destroy patriotism and disrupt
the citizen body then it is because
there are none so blind~as those who
won't see."
Inasmuch as the public schools are
microcosms of our country, the lesson
Of the fraternitles is of great value to
the people Of the United States.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-07-29
BLAMEs CORPORATION FOR
LOW EBB OF AGRICULTURE

LONG BEACH, July 24.-[Editor
Herald: Hon. James Wilson, secre-
tary of agriculture. Familiarity known
as "Tama JIM" is a man of parts. He
has done much in his present position
to lift the department over which he
reigns from its ancient business of dis
seminating weed seed to that of being
real helper toward. improved farm
Ing not only in this country, but all
over civilization. And yet he don't
know it all any more than we the COM
mons do.
He has lately issued a manifesto ex.
planning why agriculture is at so low
an ebb in the great northwest, and, in
fact, in all the Mississippi valley He
counts the lack Of help as the one
prime source of agricultural depres-
sion and offers some rather childish
remedies for the evil condition.
1 don't exactly understand where this
depression" comes in, either up and
down the great river or on this side of
the Rockies. Wheat on all the wheat
lands of that region is worth $125 at
the farmers door. Corn from so to 70
cents. Oats As cents Moreover there
is no printed record of less acres plant
ed or sown this year of these crops
than in former years. Certainly the
extent of territory reduced to fruit and
-
not falling off. Rather 1t is increasing
rapidly. Again, the processes of farm
ing are better accomplished now than
ever before. Flowing, narrowing, plant
ing, sowing, cultivating, harvesting,
threshing, all are better done than they
were fifty years ago. A single man can
do the work now of three, and often
of six and ten, and 1t will be done with
less labor and less waste than in the
earlier time. Sinews and fingers of
steel have taken the place of human
hands, and this machinery has not only
improved the work done, but 1t has
educated tho farmer. Lifted him from
mere "geehaw" with just wit enough
to sweat all day between the plow han
dies, or swing hoe, to be skilled me-
chanic, able not only to "set up his
binder, but often to repair it when it
is worn. II has also taught him that
ne wants no scrub help. A chapter
longer than The Herald would have
room to print might be written on this
"help" question. 1 can only touch it.
The help that supplied the need of
the western farmer twenty to forty
years ago was mostly from the tim
othy belt" 1t had no Latin blood in
it, Moreover, it came west In search
of land and a home. The open acres
that were the heritage of our nation
were the safety valve that offered the
EAST escape from its congested popula-
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-07-29
ACKNOWLEDGES FREELY THAT
coNVIcTs ARE GoD-FoRsAkEN

LOS ANGELES, July 2s.-[Edltor
Herald: 1 confess to having looked
with suspicion on Margaret Browns
letter of 26th inst, which seemed to me
obviously written to draw the. fire of
the Prison Reform league. For as to
capital punishment being upheld by the
Bible no one of any sense supposes
that modern society is governed by the
Mosaic law, promulgated for the benz
eft of tribe wandering in the desert
several thousands years ago! Would
Margaret Brown like TO see everyone
in Los Angeles guilty Of adultery
stoned to death?
No; I do not believe that Sisters of
Mercy write for the Herald Letter BOX,
and none save the inmate of some
penitential cell could remark that the
charges against prison officials cannot
be true, because they are politicians"
There is too much naivete about that
and Margaret Brown is humbugging
the Letter Box.
Nevertheless 1 agree that the con-
vlcts who crowd our penitentiarles are
PC r-forsaken." AS about ninety-nine
per cent of them have been driven in
by the whip of poverty, and as they
find every one inspired with the convic-
ton that it Is a duty to make life as
unpleasant for them as possible, they
have good reason to look on themselves
as God forsaken." and, in their turn,
to forsake their God. In such condi-
lions the individual is indisposed to
listen to the exhortations of those who
pirate about this being a world OF love
On the contrary he sticks the tongue
of derision most energetically into the
cheek of scorn, and this is vastly to
his credit. When he acts otherwise
be is simply a hypocrite. T. K. G.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-07-29
TRUST CAMPAIGN

CAMPAIGN to prove the purity
n harmlessness and beneficence of
II benzoate Of soda has been traced
TO the borax trust. What was rep
resented TO be a spontaneous effort
on the part Of a great many food eX
perts to convince the public of the in
nocence of benzoate of soda turns out
to be a cunning attempt to reopen a
market which was being closed against
a trust by-product A careful investiga-
ton conducted by the government
proves benzoate of soda does not pre-
vent ptomaine poisoning in ketchup
jellies, jams, etc, where ptomaines do
not already exist: and that it does not
destroy bacteria of vegetable origin,
but merely arrests decay. In other
words, partially decayed vegetables
and fruits may be rehabilitated $50
to speak) and their further decay ar
rested by the use of chemical pre-
servatives.
UGH!
There is of course this much to say
in favor of bensoate of soda. The
Bgvptians used benzoic acid with
marvellous preservative results. 1t
enabled the Egyptian mummies to defy
time, and preserved for our modern
museums the aquiline head (haughtily
beaked) of the Pharaoh of the OPP
preston. then, who would be an
Egyptian mummy?