The National tribune., 1909-11-25

cooked to the Queens tastei And such
good bread and orange marmalade! We
were ashamed of ourselves, we ate so
much; but one always has the comfort
able feeling in Norway that there is an
abundance of everything, and everyone
you run into in travelling seems to have
more enormous appetite even than
you yourself, which is great comfort
and stiffens you up wonderfully.
The view from my window at Skei
was so pretty that after Elizabeth and
1 had said goodnight, each of US
wrapped up In measureless content
from our good supper and the delight
full ride in the afternoon, l sat for q
long time looking out upon the lovely
scene. l would not part with the mem
ory of it for a good many dollars, and
as sat in my chair before the window
of my little room l could hear the
waves dashing against the shore not
100 yards away. Tho l could see every
thing perfectly, it was not light enough
to enable one to read or write, so for
the first time since coming to this coun-
| try ] lit my candle to bring my dairy up
to date.
The next morning, which was this
morning, we started bright and early
4 for Sande, an all-day's ride. with the
same driver and pony. You would be
surprised to know how comfortable
| these stolkjaerres are and with how lit
| tie fatigue these long drives are at
| tended. In fact, neither Elizabeth nor
| | have been the least bit tired after
driving five or six hours in one, and, in
stead of feeling relieved when the drive
was over, have wished It were longer
1t has been another beautiful day as to
weather, with lavish display of blue
skies and bright sunshine. and after
driving for a short time we began to
meet the country people walking or
driving in their stolkjaerres to church.
] think l have before remarked that
the Norwegians are a very religious peo-
pie, Lutherans believe, with hardly a
hamlet SO small that has not its plain
little white wooden church. To-day
the roads We're filled with stolk jaerres,
a single one sometimes holding as many
as four people, and pedestrians, all
lwending their way to some one of these
modest edifices, where, one can imagine.
is held the simplest of simple services.
listened TO with great deVoutnesS. The
hoods worn by the elderly women inter-
ested Elizabeth and me greatly. These
were made of some black material, fit
ting the face closely, the crown of which
stuck up behind queerly enough, two
ends falling from it down the back of
the wearer. Some of them had a pretty
soft white ruching inside, around the
face. which was a great improvement.
All of the younger women wore hats.
Evidently the big hat craze has not yet
penetrated their Eden, for those which
covered the heads of these fresh-faced
Norwegian girls and women were OF
the vintage of several seasons back and
quite in keeping with their very simple
lattire. Can you imagine anything more
ltncongruous than big modern hat on
the head of Norwegian country girl,
trudging along to church, for instance,
with the great snow mountains all
around her and the ford winding along
by her side? Yet so resistless is this
thing we call Fashion that | have no
DOUBT should the big hat remain with
us much longer even just such girls will
be wearing them. They say the return
Of the Norwegian girls who have gone
to America on visits to the "fader and
mudder" are largely responsible for the
putting off OF the National dress in the
country districts. 1t reminds me of the
: story your Cousin K. tells of the Irish
girl she encountered one day on a coun-
try road near some village In Ireland
where she was spending the Summer
This young girl, whose fathers modest
cabin, with its pigs and ''praty" patch,
were within sight, whose bare feet pro-
/ truded honestly and shamelessly from
her cotton skirt, asked your cousin
many questions about America She
wanted to go there very much, indeed
she said. because the girls she had
known who had gone and come back on
visits had such a lovely style"
| We stopped for dinner at Mr. Sievet-
, sons Hotel at Forde, arriving there
about o'clock. The fishing at this
place is particularly fine, and the only
other people who took dinner with us
[ We're redfaced Englishman of middle
age, whom we were told had leased
r some water in the neighborhoOd, special
lily noted for it's fine fishing, for several
years, and who spent all his Summers
at Forde. The other person was &
younger man, his companion, secretary
or something. The maid who waited or
! us spoke English perfectly, had lived III
FAN River Mass, for many years, where
KINCHAM'S DYE
50 GENIE