davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

of some fun she is even now losing
with some congenial chum requires her
self-control. Nor is it always easy to
take the trouble to make conversation
with some youth or girl to whom one
has just been introduced. when as yet
no topic of common interest has been
found Yet it is this very making
conversation" this thinking hard of
what will interest the other person. re-
gardless of any interest of ones own,
which gives pleasant or unpleasant
impression, and one which at some
future wholly undreamed of time may
make a very real difference in ones
enjoyment or success.
Quite apart from the fact that it is
finer TO be unselfish than self-engrossed,
unconscious than foolishly shy or SUI
persensitive. gracious than i'll man
nered, it is also infinitely more sensible
from a purely worldly, practical point
of view to try hard to be liked by all
always. For
Life is the mirror of rich and poor,
1t is just what we are and do
Then give to the world the best that
you have
And the best will come back to you.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

one more exacting than the total
stranger, for the stranger does not
care and simply forms an opinion,
either f1attering or otherwise, which
it is going to take some time and no
small effort to alter
Upon what does that all important
first impression depend then? Not any
thing very big that requires to be
worked out beforehand. certainly. In
fact it is the girl who has learned to
get sufficiently outside herself to be
really interested in the casual acquaint-
ance with whom she may perhaps have
opportunity for no further conversation
than a bright Good morning" or a
really sincere Il am so glad to know
you who will inevitably give a good
impression" 1t calls for no little un-
selishness, too-the habit of giving
the kind of FIRST impression that
every girl desires, consciously or un-
consciously. for herself. To be able
to smile sweetly and listen attentively
to some kindly older person who is new
ertheless very dull and far from inter-
esting to girl whose thoughts are full
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

nASTE is the body or substance OF
(which the article is made and may
be either hard or soft. Hard paste
IS made of the natural clay. and when
broken appears sparkling, fine grained
and vitreous. Soft paste is more por-
Gus and dull. and is made of artificial
clays. The shiny material which COW
ers the paste is known as the glaze.
hard glaze being colorless and thin.
making the object cold, while soft
glaze is somewhat gummy and may be
scratched with a knife.
Biscuit is the technical term applied
to both pottery and porcelain before
they are enameled or glazed.
These are but few of the terms
and definitions which must be learned
before one can start out with any in
telligence to make a study of this art,
which, although in a rudimentary form
it was known TO the ancients before
the Christian era. was a practically
unknown craft in this country and
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28
Hand Made Lingerie

L OR girls who are fond Of making
their own lingerie there are some
charming designs which are quite
new and not too elaborate for the nee
dlewoman Of average ability One Of
the most attractive of these pieces is a
corset cover which is all in one piece
and drawn up at the top. after fashion
that IS very popular with girls. The
novel point about the waist is that
the lower part IS tucked vertically, so
as TO make the bodice fit smoothly and
TO avoid the fullness at the waist
which is unpleasant in corset covers
Beneath the tucks there is a plain.
tight band edged around the bottom
with embroidery. This makes the
waist particularly snug around the
waist, while the tucks hold It in above.
The top Of the waist is trimmed with
a double row of embroidery having a
beading in between. The back of the
waist is finished in the same manner as
the front. over the shoulders there
are bands OF the batiste edged with
the embroidery, and these are fastened
20 the waist on either end with the rib
Don uSeo IN the DeaOlnE.
A charming nightgown Is trimmed
with hand embroidery and entredeux
OF point d'esprit. The yoke of the
nightgown, which is cut in a round, low
neck, is made of fat embroidered
piece and finished in large scallops at
the lower edge. The nightgown is set
on this yoke in fairly large pleats.
bands OF point desprit about FIVE inches
long being set between each two pleats.
The short cape sleeves are made OF en-
tredeux Of point d'esprit and batiste.
and the point d'esprit is also used for
the edge of the sleeves.
At the moment it is quite the fash
ion 70 trim night robes, corset covers
and chemises with linen braid, and this
fashion has its advantage in the dura-
bflity Of the trimming. To give the
garment the daintiness which all really
charming lingerie must possess IL is
necessary to use bits OF lace here and
there 10 supplement the braid trim
ming. Fine and rather sheer fabrics
ere used as a background for the soa-
fache embroidery which is carried out
IN some Of the simpler patterns used
for the outer garments.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28
Uses for Taupe Linen

r AUPE linen makes an excellent
basis for Christmas fancy work
of a practical order, as it may be
embroidered, hand painted or ribbon
trimmed in any of the work and light
shades of the primary colors.
gray lined night dress bag Of
cylindrical shape and with puff ends
should have its seams and edges piped
with ribbon, its flap monogram en-
broidered and be equipped with rib
bon hanger.
To make a lingerie ribbon holder a
strip of gray linen, with an outlined or
hand painted border, SHOULD be stretched
smoothly over 10 by IL inch cardboard.
In the center of the board are cut three
half inch square openings. through
which protrude the ends of as many
varieties of baby ribbon, coming from
spools strung upon a rod, running
across the back of the board and work
ing on the windlass principle.
Miniature mailbags designed for SOU
venir postcards. but also convenient as
hair receivers and scrapbags, are made
of taupe linen, bound on three sides
with tan and finished at the top with a
broad band of kid. over which goes a
flap that is held in place by a strap
and buckle. On one side of the bag is
worked the monogram and on the other
u. s. Mail"
The needlebook portion of a chate-
laine sewing outfit consists of two cir
cular pieces of cardboard covered with
hand embroidered taupe linen and
hinged by means of a ribbon hanger
and bow. To the opposite edge of the
covers are attached several small
celluloid rings. from which depend rib
bon hangers for the scissors, a small
bag for reels OF thread and thimble
case.
Another chatelaine for sewing con-
veniences is in the shape of a taupe
linen covered embroidered ring, from
across the top of which are suspended
a needlebook, emery ball, thimble case
ard scissors holder. Inside the edge
of the lower portion of the ring is
balanced a pin cushion rag doll, garbed
as y trained nurse in a crisp taupe
liner frock. white lawn apron. fichu
and cap and felt sinners
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28
Ornamental Book Receptdcies

only the titles and writer's of the sea,
sons plays and operas. but also havs
space for clippings regarding the per-
formers in those productions.
Brides books bound in hand painted
or silver embossed white kid, or silk
or in embroidered butchers linen.
have highly embossed pages daintily
decorated for the certificate. the copies
of invitations and announcements, the
names of attendants. officiating clergy
man and immediate kinsfolk present at
the ceremony. i.
Recipe books bound in printed Gre
tonne and tied with launderable ribbon
juvenating household furnishings and
for preserving clothing. as we'll as for
preparing food and bound in either
lingerie or imitation Irish lace over
silk is a fascinating volume devoted
to needle work. knitting and crochet
instruction.
Book shaped bridge cases holding
two packs of cards are of ivory. mother
of pearl. celluloid. lacquer and leather
lined with satin or velvet and decorated
with a monogram or a bridge honor.
Similarly shaped boxes of leather or
ceIIuloid contain complete manicure
sets. cakes of perfumed soap and
sponges for compact sewing outfits.
Three reels OF lingerie ribbon come in
embroidered muslin covered book
boxes.
For small girls there are silk broeade
or fowered paper covered book boxes
holding sets OF hair and sash ribbons.
and for girls OF all ages are delight
fully cumbersome bonbon boxes at
tractively bound in enamel. cretonne
and cartridge paper.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28
Dolls for Electric Light Shades

There is nothing too fine, elaborate
or beautiful for the dressing of these
dolls. Handsome satins, brocades, vel
vet, lace, jeweled and spangled net ETC.,
are all used in their costumes. Some
one period is faithfully followed in
planning the gown and no detail is
lacking. from the old fashioned tiny
straw bonnet, a difficult thing TO fash
ion, by the way, to the accompanying
veil or befiowered bandbox. If it be
lady of the Pompadour ero. the hair
dressing, fan. slippers, scarf etc, are
most painstakingly selected to har-
monize with that period. If a simple
maiden of old New York be preferred,
then she, too, must be perfect In silken
petticoat and flowing ringlet. The
safest way in all this period dressing
is to follow some famous painting of a
great beauty of that era. Then no mis-
take is possible and much time in the
consultation of historical records is
saved
1t is not necessary TO make any spe-
cial arrangement for slipping the light
under the frock, as the cord will easily
be lost sight of in the soft folds of the
skirt. Be 1t understood that dressing
this charming doll Is no easy task, and
the materials necessary are not only
expensive. but will sometimes be hard
to find, but the task of fitting out the
doll is most fascinating one, and
when there is store of old family
finery to draw upon it is especially en-
ticing. When finished the dolls stand
on a table or mantelpiece and the lights
are adroitly hidden under their skirts,
which should. of course, be fairly
diaphanous. But the thin silks, lin
gerie, nets, ETC.. which are suitable for
elaborate costumes, are sufficiently
sheer for this purpose. The heavier
materials, brocade. cloth of gold. ETC.,
which are used are arranged so as to
fall only over portion of the skirt
at the back, leaving the front and sides
transparent enough to give a softly
shaded light
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28
Two Kinds of Embroidery

~ ORTRA1T embroidery or figure
embroidery is now coming very
much to the front among ambi-
tious needle women. Needless to say,
there is no attempt at embroidering the
portraits of present day danes and
demOiselles- The embroiderers stick
closely to the more picturesque per-
sonages- OF old times and set them forth
upon brocade and tapestry backgrounds
that are highly becoming to their style
of beauty.
These portrait embroideries are used
for cushions. boxes, letter racks. etc.
The design is printed, so that it Is not
very dificult to follow, but even then
only person with some artistic ability
as well as skill IN embroidery, can
complete the work satisfactorily
Usually some famous great lady OF his
tory is portrayed in these embroideries.
The design is wrought on medallion
which has a solid background OF
stitchery in shaded colors OF silk and
wool The portrait is developed In
variety of shades. and Is framed In
bold embroidery. border OF gold lace
or an embroidered hora1 wreath rich
in dull old tapestry colors and a hand
some example Of the embroiderer's art.
Rfchelieu work is another sort OF
embroidery, or rather stitchery. which
is attracting much attention. It Is made
OF linen thread on linen and is a re-
vival of italian work Of the fourteenth
and fifteenth centuries The designs
are large and full of action, hunting
scenes in full cry, professions. wedding
parties. dancing on the green, ETC. AMI
mails of all kinds. rabbits, foxsa ana
deer esDecially- are used In ths bordsrA
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

Utmost all girls love to dress dolls
~ even after they have long passed
what is supposed to be the doll
dressing age, and it is particularly
pleasant that an opportunity is now
offered to dress dolls which are not
only unusually exquisite in the style
and elaborateness of their costumes
but are also really useful for grown
up persons as well as for children.
Some time ago several of the fash
ionable milliners and modistes imported
from Paris a number of charming
bisque figures dressed in the height of
the fashions of the times before the
civil war These wonderful little ladies
were merely ornaments and occupied a
conspicuous place in the milliners' win
dows, attracting much admiring atten-
tion from the passersby Then the milr
liners and modistes explained that In
the early days of this country 1t had
abroad to be introduced in this manner
Instead of sending over an array of
new gowns and hats alone, the Paris
modistes then sent with each change
of season a miniature wax lady of fash
ion, who was dressed in the latest
styles and carried off gown and hat
with the airy grace of the French capt.
tai. Consequently American women
saw not only the new styles, but how
TO wear them.
SO charmed were many of those who
saw the modern copies of these old
fashioned puppets which were secured
in Paris last year that every one began
to look around for a way in which
they could be utilized in the house,
hold. The first thing thought of was
the mounting of the dolls on pincush-
ions. which could be covered by the
dolls flowing skirts A newer idea is
still more attractive. The dolls are
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

VEN If a girl have no desire to
+ actually become a cOnnoisseur on
l. the subject OF old china she could
make study Of it with real profit to
herself and learn to appreciate really
good china when it is set before her
Surely it is as important for girl TO
be able to recognize fine porcelain
when she sees it on some festal board
as it is for her to know fine linen and
damasl. or to experience thrills Of envy
on viewing some bit OF rare and costly
lace.
Once an interest IN the subject has
been started by study of the English
wares which are comparatively com
mon in this country a study OF the
china ware OF Holland. Germany.
France, Italy. Spain and Russia will
prove tremendously absorbing. and
soon the student will blush painfully
at the remembrance OF how short a
while ago it was that the now mar
velous terms OF even Delta, Sevres and
Dresden stood for perhaps the only
varieties one knew of. and these. too.
were but vaguely familiar.
All during the eighteenth and early
part of the nineteenth centuries there
were sent over here from England
great quantity of pottery and porcelain
.of the different Stafrordshire wares,
and later of the many varieties OF
Derby. Chelsea and WedgwoOd china.
A study OF the history Of the early
English potters and their splendid
pioneer work in this field viii prove
most interesting even If one has not
the slightest intention OF becoming a
collector.
1t is still possible to find many good
and often valuable specimens of this
English china in out OF the way towns
among the old homesteads where the
descendants Of the original owner no
longer treasure what is left OF what
was perhaps the most cherished OF all
the possessions of the parents and
grandparents-t dainty porcelain
and pottery. Or if there be a garret in
ones own home 1T should be ransacked
at once in the hope OF finding there
some good specimen OF now rare
kind of porcelain which may have
found it's way there after being dis
carded by some member of previous
generation who. through what now
seems TO us surprising Ignorance. had
no interest in anything so mundane
as IL seemed then. highly valued as it
is nov-as old china
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

girl Will find 1t hard to rest until at
stoff, of luster ware, of Wedgwood or
Of the historic series of Staffordshire
ware has been procured. With the
collectors fever once caught there
arises an irresistible desire to make
raid on all the old farmhouses in the
hope of finding in some back closet or
dairy shelf dish or jug of Noting
ham or Davenport or some other Eng
lish ware Of the nineteenth century.
The term pottery was originally en-
ployed TO define all objects made Of
clay, nodded into shape while in
moist state and then hardened by fire.
Porcelain" comes from an italian
word meaning cowry she'll but be-
cause porcelain ware was first made
by the Chinese it is commonly called
china. The essential difference be-
tween pottery and porcelain is that the
latter is whittier, harder and slightly
translucent. Faience is French word
which is applied TO every kind Of
glazed earthenware, but does not in
clude porcelain. The term majolica,
which one comes across so constantly
in all descriptions of china, formerly
meant exclusively Italian decorated
pottery OF the fifteenth, sixteenth.
seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
made in the old italian style, but today
the word signifies about the same thing
as faience.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

used for electric light shades An or
binary electric bulb is slipped under
the charming skirts and the dainty
figure sheds, a soft and charming light
from her befurbelowed costume.
All of the old style costumes with
wide skirts are useful and charming
fer these dolls The doll itself is not
All ordinary sort of puppet, but Is, IN
stead, a charming Dresden or bisque
figure, small and delicate in proportion
and coloring.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

q UGH was written Of Horace Wal
pole, an enthusiastic collector Of
china, when in the second half
OF the eighteenth century the
craze for china collecting was at
its height And this little rhyme gives
but meager idea Of what the fever
for collecting can be once it has taken
hold upon its victim.
Today IN this twentieth century the
study and collecting Of china is once
more q fad, and its enthusiasts are to
be found IN all ages. in all walks Of
M1e. II Is scarcely fair however, to
give the name "fad" TO any subject or
mend IL and gives with every hour of
study so much that is interesting, so
much that IS worth while TO know.
Every girl has at one time or an
other been seized with a desire to make
a collection OF something. and what
ever her collection may chance TO be II
is sure TO bring with il an all absorb
ing interest Surely IL would be more
sensible to turn her energies 10 some
object that viii be OF value 10 her all
through life than to expend untold
time and work upon getting together
e unique collection Of engraved mono
grams, for example. which are effect
i've, perhaps. but Of no possible value.
Even postage stamps. apart from their
historic interest can bring only a pride
OF ownership because of a certain rarity
and monetary value. There is no real
beauty in the tiny inch wide stripe Of
colored picture paper, and unless il be
determined 10 make a real lifework Of
the getting together OF a choice col
lection and putting into it large shares
OF the allowance a girl can never hope
10 acquire stamp collection of any
great worth In the collecting of old
china. on the other hand, each piece ac-
ouired viii be in itself thing Of inter
est and beauty.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

THERE are comparatively few girls
nowadays who have the least
knowledge of china. the different
wares which their grandmothers loved
and guarded so tenderly. or can even
discriminate between pottery and por-
celain. once. however, little knowl-
edge Of this most fascinating subject
has been Cleaned even the youngest
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

lain. Not until at least one collection
Of rare china has been gazed upon un-
derstandingly. and the beauties OF it
looked upon with Intelligent eyes. will
the desire arise to possess for ones
self some such specimens. but once this
ambition is reused there will be no
rest
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

Chiua's the passion OF his soul;
A CUP. q plate, dish, a bowl
Can kindis wishes in his breast,
Indane with Joy. or break his rest
Omaha daily bee., 1909-03-06
Mr.. Roosevelt
Writes Article
on Journalism
First Editorial from Pen of Ex-
President Deals with Types
of Newspapers.

NEW YORK. March 5-The first edit
torial article rom thu pen % ex-Presideut
Theodore Roosevelt. which appears in a
March issue Of tho outlook. deals with
the subject Of Journalism II says IN
part:
Every owner. editor or reporter % a
conscientious newspaper is an asset OF
real value TO- the community We have
many newspapers. big and little. N this
kind. But We also have many that ara
enphaucally not o. this kind
During the last few years IL has be-
come evident that certain newspapers are
controlled nv men who have gained
wealth In evil fashion. who dcsire tu sttCe
honest public opinion and nd an in
strument In the purchased mendacity Of
those who edit and write FOR such papers
Mr.. Roosevelt then pays his respects
to THE apostles Of that nideous yellow
journalism which deines the cult OF the
mendacious. the sensational and the name
In conclusion he rcfore to Another type
of temptation which has much fascination
for men Of cultivation. and which IN
quite as fatal to their usefulness as fell
low journalism
He says 81 thrre;
"A newspaper which avoids vulgar sem
sationaiism1 which appeals to people Of
taste and Intelligence. may nevertheless
do them grave harm and be within It's
own rather narrow limits an element OF
serious mischief For Il may habitually
and consistently practice a malign and
strenuous un%truthfulness which, though
more refined, is ~ immoral as its sem
satiunal competitors.
"A cultivated man " good Intelligence
who has acquired the knack Of saying
bitter things, but who lacks the robust
ness 20 feel at ease among men of action.
is apt, II his nature has anything of mean
ness or untruthfulness. to sit in cloistered
aloofness and tn endeavnr by an unceas-
ing output OF Islander TO bolster IN his
own uneasy desire to be considered SUI
perior.
Now. a paper edited by men af this
stamp does not have much popular in
fluence. but Il may exert a real influence
for evil by the way IN which II teaches
young men Of good education that decent
and upright men arc as properly the sub
iects for foul attack as the most debased
corruptiunist. that efficiency and wicked
ness are interchangeable and that the cor
rect attitude to adopt in facing the prob
lens of our time Is one Of s~neering and
superciliuus untruthfulness.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-03-06
nardware Wen oppa.e earceI. Po.t.

HURON. 5. D., March 5.-tSpecialD-
Retail hardwar dealers Of South Dakota
are enjoying the most prosperous gath
ering known to representatives Of TINS
particular branch OF in the
history OF south Dakota Altogether the
attendance exceeds expectations and all
are in the happiest mood. one of the in
terestinB features of the convention was
the address Wednesday afternoon Of D..
II. Evans OF Tracy, Mimi, vice president
OF the Retail Hardware Mutual Fire In
surance company. His theme was the
Saving OF Cost Of Insurance G. l.
Schulz OF Minneapolis discussed the par
cells post question and declared the par
cells post proposition should be discour-
aged. President Gregory in his annual
address made reference to the Legislation
concerning the parcels post and declared
that there is not now and never has
there been good reason why the nation
should be burdened with the enormous
load that would result from the parcels
post system. The selection Of the city.
in which 10 hold the next annual con
veHti0n is attracting no small attention.
Yankton. Sioux Falls and Huron ara about
evenly matched for the honor. The ques-
ton viii he decided at tomorrow's ses-
sion.