New-York tribune., 1909-03-21

The new costumes how beautiful they are, Some
are gorgeous with the glitter of jet. crystal, gold
and silver the bodices. while others are Of an
extreme simplicity Whether Of French or Ameri-
San make those shown by the leading establish
Hnents are of an elegance that has seldom If ever
been surpassed.
by houses that are thoroughly in accord with the
of their clientele Of rare refinement They
are such may be copied outright by the well
dressed woman provided always that she has plen-
BY OF money 10 spend
For X is by no means tc be a season Of econo-
s11ies in dress. but in which soft and piable
serials, exquisite trimmings and faultless cut
and hnsh viii each in its true proportion count up
she cost Of a costume. With each succeeding season
women are becoming exacting In the COM
position OF their gowns and this gives employ
snent to skilled workwomen, 1t IS 10 be by means
sdeplored. buI, the contrary, should be encour-
aged by those who have the wherewithal TO crafty
sheir artistic taste. Women who not plenti-
fully supplied with the requisite amount Of coin
10 exchange for uade-to-order costumes Of the best
houses viii ind their needs well catered to in the
Seady-uade costumes These are, rule. Of ex-
eIlent and finish, and the quality OF material
End trimming is commensurate with the price. The
most skilful designers and cutters employed
make them, and, considering the difference in cost,
Ehey bear favorab bic comparison with the custom
snads garments.
The high class costumes Of a season contain the
Fashion idea OF that season, and TO the acute OBJ
SERVER indications OF the changes that likely
so occur in the succeeding To say to-day
1ha: any style period predominated would be
no belle the truth The French authorities have
culled their ideas from number Of widely sepa-
rsted style periods, and have so cleverly mingled
hhern that the result is the quintessence of
.ieth century styles. Modern customs require
nressing that is essentially different from those OF
Aygone centuries. and when all is said and done
modern taste in dressing is by far the most
xIstic the world has ever known No longer will
.American class accept freaksh and
'cutiandish styles by no matter how high an au-
xhority they launched. Styles must be modi-
fed 20 the refined taste TO meet with any
general acceptance This was well proved only
last fall with the entrance Of the sheath skirt.
which had 10 be decidedly changed before IT
Aeccepted by American women.
There is q dearth OF 1880 styles among the latest
imported French models, despite its having been
90 loudly heralded from the other side Byzantine
tand Egyptian ideas mostly confined 10 the
beauty and glitter Of the trimmings that
EUssd ornament the corsage, and OF these there
lare an abundance Directoire and Empire effects
lsrs decidedly modified. for the waistline is
lxnuch more near TIE normal than it has been in
some seasons. The piece gown. the princess
style, continues 10 be that which Is most SEEN
MEDIEVAL STYLES IN COSTUMES
Medieval. moyen age styles If you prefer the
French name. are shown in costumes only and they
must be still more modified If they are TO find any
general acceptance IN this country. The most as
tute European representatives OF American houses
have realized this necessity. and have brought over
ionly the refined OF these medieval dresses.
For the woman who wants something entirely diff
tserent this uoyen age costume will undoubtedly
he the choice This is tight fitting garment from
above the below the hips. The fitted portion
is rather short n the back and curves gradually
down in 'front.' where It is sometimes of rounded
ioutline and IN other models ends in a deep point
The fun skirt attached 10 this fitted bodice In
lpther models the fitted effect is produced by
rather plain drapery-
The great value OF this moyen age costume
The average viii be that il points the way
10 gradual lengthenng Of the waistline. of which
we shall undoubtedly better and greater ex-
preston in the fall
The tailored cloth dress in this style, which
ing shown by few Of the custom taiiors reminds
one Of nothing much the eTstwhile popular
Jersey which with full killed skirt For
the clcth costume Is made with moulded
bodice extending over the hips. and IL is sewed
O tal plested skirt Even the dressmakers laugh
n this model and say, What woman wants to look