davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14
Trimmed Bags and Cases

IT is now very fashionable to use lace
trimmed with gold thread for the
decoration of bags. handkerchief
cases and other small articles that
are SO attractive and SO necessary in
the boudoir. The work of embroider-
ing the lace with gold is most fascinat-
ing and not so difficult as many kinds
of needlework. Lace of various sorts
is used for this purpose, that having
a fine net and figures not too close
together being most attractive. Fine
figured net of ivory tint is also used
to trim these articles and is edged
with gold lace and embroidered not
only with fine thread. but with an
applique of fine cord as we'll Small
gold flowers are superimposed upon
the flowers in the lace. These may
be bought ready made and appliqued. or
they may be formed of cloth of gold.
of gold cord or thread.
For the tops of bags this lace is
especially attractive. 1t is also most
charmingly used as a 1ounce for fiat
cases of brocade, satin, etc. The lace
is also cut apart and used. in squares
or circles and in separate motifs for
the decoration of bags and cases. Sill
yer and gold paillettes, steel. jet and
crystal beads and colored beads and
pail1ettes are also sewed on the lace
that is to be used as trimming. Some
of the small bags are entirely covered
with lace or net which has been decor
ated in this fashion. Ribbon work
and chenille are sometimes used in
place of the gold thread and most
attractive effects result.
In all cases where there is a decided
design in the lace this Is accentuated
and supplemented by the trimming.
Whatever trimming is used. in other
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14

preferable to a white wash skirt, which
starch for more than a few hours at
most. The advantage in black silk
skirt is, of course, that it can be made
to serve with any dress desired, but, on
the other hand. petticoat Of the shade
of the skirt with which IT is to be
worn is more attractive and always
more youthful. This skirt should have
gored poke at the top, so that the
overskirt will fit neatly. A petticoat
gathered into a ribbon or tape string
tied about the waist Is as great detri-
ment to a handsome dress as an unbe-
coming veil on a pretty hat. Even the
smallest girl should have> her under
skirt well fitted and carefully made
For economy's sake there should be an
underfiounce of muslin or percalIne be-
meath the deep silk ruffie to keep the
skirt from wearing out in the Distress
ingIy short time that a silk skirt usu-
ally does go to pieces. Really, the i'm
portance of a good unders&irr can not
be too strongly emphasized. for with
out it the most expensive dress will
hang but poorly, ard nothing is so un-
attractive as an ill hanging short dress.
Shawl collars or else unusually wide
tailor coats for young girls. and with
the small sleeve now fashionable a
wide rever is essential to give breadth
across the shoulder line. These revers
may be of corded silk. OF moire, of
panne velvet or of the material itself
with soutache braiding or rows OF
stitching. On many of the newest coats
the silk or whatever material is used
for the revers they are carried down
as a facing the full length OF the coat
The sleeves may be finished as the
regulation coat sleeve. with few
bands of stitching and two or three
cloth buttons, or If preferred may be
adorned with two inch cuffs of the
same material as the collar and revers.
Rounded and cutaway effects are still
occasionally seen, but the long straight
coat front is evidently more popular
at present. Often the turned down
collar is of the cloth itself, while revers
and facing are of silk the shade OF the
material Dark Innings. very nearly
the color of the coats on which they
are placed are fast displacing the white
satin that remained in favor for so
many years.
Not only must the street walking
dresses be smart and carefully chosen.
the evening wraps must also be &C
corded due consideration and thought.
A pretty evening cloak is every bit as
important in these days as the dainty
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14
Carved Gold Umbrella Handles

~ EALLY valuable umbrella handles.
IL such as are bought separate from
the umbrellas, are now principally
to be noticed in two styles. One of
these is quite deep and round or octag-
onal. small where it 10 to be fastened
to the ferrule of the umbrella and
widening toward the top. These han
dies are of gold. engraved by hand or
carved. Ivory handles also come In
this shape. and these are also carved
Mother of pearl is used with gold for
some of the handles. With these ham
dies there are gold points to be used
for the finishing of the umbrella.
Round fiat handles are also fashion
able. These are about as large as a
silver dollar in circumference, with a
two or three inch ferrule.. They are
engraved or carved. and many of them
are set with stones, but for young
girls the engraved ones are considered
in better style.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14
Ribbons for Feminine Hondiw0rk

bags. ETC., have a stiff circular base
about three inches in height, a bag
being attached to the upper edge of
this. The stiff circular part is covered
with brocade ribbon of the proper
width, and the upper part, which is
an ordinary circular bag, is of soft
silk or satin, harmonizing in color
Another attractive bag is made of two
stiff side ovals sewed on stiff bottom
piece. The side ovals are covered
with the lowered ribbon. Inside there
is a soft bag in plain silk, attached
TO the sides at the bottom, but quite
free from them at the top. This little
bag sets nicely on the table and looks
like brocaded basket, with a bag
inside.
Pillows are also made of the new
ribbons, and there are many most at
tractive ones constructed in this man
ner. A plain pillow of silk or satin
may have corners of the lowered
ribbon or the ribbon may be used for
a strip down one side. In round cush-
ions the ribbon may form circular
center, with soft dull silk shirred
around 1t. There cushions are most
attractive. They are prettier when
quite small.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14

NIEvER were there more fascinat-
N ing ribbons than are now to be
seen in the shops. They are Of
gauze, velvet, satin and moire, with
pompadour designs, raised flowers.
gold and silver embroideries. pail
lettes, etc. The gold and silver gauze
ribbons with colored flowers are won
derfuny handsome. There are also
satin ribbons with raised velvet de-
signs in contrasting tints. and heavy
satin ribbons with designs In gold
thread. Old fashioned scalloped rib
bons have been revived. They are
three or four inches wide and very
heavy, even stiff IN texture. They are
covered with flowers. usually in two
shades OF the same color. and some
Of them have also gold thread worked
into the design.
To girls who like TO make bags and
boxes for boudoir and drawing rooms
these ribbons are very tempting. They
make UP most charmingly and. used
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14

frock which il protects. White cioth'
with wide collar and cuffs of soft WnlIs
fox or lynx. makes an adorable cloak
for a young girl not yet out. while IL
IL is desired to wear the wrap oc-
casionally during the day time on the
way to dancing school or afternoon
party. a darker shade. deep rose, Japa-
nese blue or perhaps bright scarlet.
would be a better investment This
cloak. if 10 be worn perhaps in public
conveyance. should be half lifted win
long. rather full coat sleeves and reach
quite to the end of the dress II. how
ever. a girl is so fortunate as to nave
a carriage always at her disposal.
Iooser wrap would be perhaps smarter
LEEVELESS capes make delightful
y wraps for every time OF year save
- midwinter. but a cape must %
heavily interlined. II possible hheu
with fur. for it is never so warm aS
cloak This year. heweyer' the eapo
is much in demand. and. with hish
fur collar is extremely pretty TOT
Young girl. Chiffon, silk and velVeI
cIoaks are, needless to state. always
charming. and this year seem eve"
more aIIuringly fascinating than ever
but even for the debutante OF next year
this style of wrap is unsuitable, Ions
white cloak being IN every respect
preferable.
White coney skin makes charming
evening or afternoon wrap for young
girl and has the great advantage or
being equally smart for either time
of day. A white fur coat Of this de-
scription is really excellent in young
girls winter outfit. for. apart from be-
ing intensely becoming. there is Moth
ing so delightfully."- warm and hence SO
good to wear over a trim party frock-
In this climate furs are every bit as
necessary as IN Russia itself and fur
coat will do much TO insure health in
this temperate zone which We tnhabit-
For a schoolgirl brown fur II more
suitable than black. although the near
seal Is rapidly taking ths place or
brown caracuI and pony skin. II IS
not necessary or even sensible 70 buy
expensive furs for a young GIRL for the
grades OF fur that are TO be had now
at such remarkably low prices VIII
stand we'll the sort OF wear which she
will give a coat. The only thing to
guard against IS not to purchase too
heavy a garment. the one dtmoulty
with the majority OF inexpensive fur
coats.
For stole and mur sets silver and
pointed fox are the favorite furs this
winter, while fox and lynx are excep-
tionaIly In favor for young girls, and
all brown furs are also fashionable.
black lynx and. IN fact, all black furs
being reserved for later on IN lie.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14
To Recover Old Work Boxes

II aE kind Of work with which ell
are familiar under the name of
decorative art" is far easier than
might at first be imagined. The
chief dificulty in the making OF chintz
or brocade covered picture frames. desk
outfits. hairpin boxes. ETC.. is in pro-
curing the pasteboard frame or box
that is to be adorned. In any large
city it is always possible to have
such boxes and frames made to order
Of required size. but If a stationer
can not be found capable of making up
this line Of articles. ii is really possible
Tor a girl TO turn out almost anything
Of the sort herself A sharp scissors
and knife. a ruler and various grades
Of cardboard. both thick and thin. are
ali the implements required. with. Of
course, the necessary glue.
The best way of learning how TO
make and cover a hatpin case. for ex-
ample, or any sort of frame is TO take
apart and examine carefully some ar
ticle OF the sort. While 1t might be
dfficuIt TO turn out a very original
piece Of work, it should not be hard 10
recover. copying exactly. a box or
frame that was once new and is now
100 faded and worn for further use
IT is an excellent plan. by the way, at
this time Of year for a girl to collect all
tae old work boxes, book covers, pin
cushions. frames, etc, that have been
discarded by different members of the
family as TOO faded after a summer OF
hard usage and 10 recover them In
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14
Satchel Powder Puff

LITTLE bag to carry taleum pow
a der is a great addition to ons's
comfort when travelling or on q
motoring trip. The powder is most re-
freshing after being long IN the wind
or after washing ones face. Although
it can, of course. be carried In the
tin box in which 1t is bought, that does
not provide a place for the powder pun.
and by far the best way to carry it for
temporary use is in a little silk bag
lined with chamois skin.
The bag is made like work bag. but
much smaller. Cut out first a circle OF
heavy cardboard three and half
inches in diameter. Cover this on the
inside with chamois and on tae ont
Side with silk, a broad lowered or
brocaded ribbon being the best thing
to use. Sew around this a piece OF the
chamois just long enough to ut smooth
ly around the bottom This piece OF
chamois must be cut four inches wide
Ooutside Of il is sewed a piece of rib
bon R1 inches long. which will give il
considerable fullness. The ribbon
should be four and three-qaarter inches
wide, the extra width making a little
friu above the chamois.
Next sew the outside and the lining
together at the top OF the chamoIs skin
and again half an inch below to mako
place for the drawing strings
Through this run two pieces OF narrow
ribbon, one coming out OF slit at each
side. and buttonhole closely around tbs
Sits Tie each drawing string in a bow
and the bag itself is finished II nusf
be supplied with a powder pun srnaI1
enough 10 At comfortably inside and
when it is to be used thick coarse
OF powder is put on the bottom Do NOT
put in too much powder at once If. ths
bag is TO be carried in satchel. for tbs
pun will hold small amount of n a,
place and. when the bag is drawn nm
tight the powder Will not come buf
even II 1t is turned upside down. bur n
tnere Is TOO large a quantity OF powder
1t may spill a little.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14
p Scrap Basket LDhich Is Easily Made

With a coat OF gilt any old scrap
basket. no matter how shabby. can be
made to look quite smart and fresh.
while II a large satin or taffeta ribbon
bow knot be tied on at one side the
basket will be doubly efrectivs.
Chintz and cretonne baskets ara still
popular and these can be most easily
made by covering i've pieces OF heavy
cardboard cut the required size for
bottom and four sides 1t Is better to
sew the lining and covering OF the DIFF
ferent pieces together at ths- sides than
to attempt TO put them together with
glue or paste. The different parts are
then held together by ribbon strings
sewed at each corner and In ths center
OF each piece and tied to the CORE
spending string on the adjoining side
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14

r. HAT good manners" are nothing
in the world but certain form of
unselfshness and thoughtfulness
for others is a new idea to many
girls, but what a very true thing 1t Is:
The excessively rude man who does not
rise to offer his seat in streetcar 10
a tired woman standing in front Of him
is simply the selfish man who prefers
to be comfortable himself than give the
opportunity of rest to another, The
girl who does not take the trouble to
stand when an older woman enters the
room simply shows that she is too lazy
to please by even SO small mark or
respect for the older person. Again,
the girl who does not bother to wish
CHEEKY good morning to her family,
9er teachers or her school shows only
that she is absorbed in herself and does
49,
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14

not think of others sufficiently TO even
make the attempt of gladdening the
moment with bright smile and So
licitous good wish.
In themselves they may not amount
to so very much, the little "covenances
of life, and many a scullery maid is at
heart a perfect little lady; but II gentle
birth can not bring with it good sreed-
ing. what good is it after all? The girl
with a bright smile and cheerful nod
of good fellowship and good will TO all
who cross her path has never yet failed
to win love from all with whom she
chances to come in contact, while no
little mark of respect or smallest po-
liteness done to an older person passes
unappreciated.
All that is necessary to acquire good
manners in the broad. right sense of the
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14
Social .Amenities for the School Girl

term is the power to put ones self In
another's place and think what they
would nke-the chair. perhaps, that you
are sitting in. the cup OF tea passed to
them first before yourself are waited
upon, strict attention given while they
talk OF matters which perhaps are not
of vital interest TO you, but in which
surely something OF interest can be
found. 1t is tire girl who carries out
all this that is said to have such
charming manners" and what does
she do. after all. but get out OF herself
sufficiently to think quickly what might
please those about her. and then to act
out that thought? Surely when once it
is realized that bad manners and self
ishness are but coordinate terms no
girl could willfully allow herself TO be
dubbed III hammered.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14

SCRAP basket should be thing
a of beauty in room. not a mere
convenience. Fortunately, there Is
nothing easier to make than pretty
receptacle for waste paper and the va
rious sorts of odds and ends to be
thrown away. Among the new waste
baskets there is one design which is
extremely pretty and also extremely
easy of CONSTRUCTION. 1t is narrow so
as to fit in the tiniest corner of a tiny
room, but is higher than the ordinary
size, so as to hold all that is neces-
sary A frame of this description can
be bought in plain wicker and then
gilded or enameled as desired before
its lining of china silk to match the
hangings of the room is added.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14

brocade and silk for Christmas gifts.
Whether or not the old picture frame
or work box is recognized in its new
form makes no difference. The recip-
tent will be only too glad to have back
again a pretty and attractive some
thing that has perhaps been sorely
missed.
In taking TO pieces the pin tray. box
or frame, or whatever 1t may be, each
section should be carefully studied so
that a duplicate can easily be made or
the original piece made to look just as
it did before. Surely what has been
done once can be accomplished a sec
ond time, whether that thing happens
TO be a trip to the north pole or simply
the remaking of an intricate piece of
decorative art work. Nor need both
undertakings be accomplished by the
same persons.
Quite an astonishing amount of
money, too. can be saved by making
use of what things are already at
hand. for even the pasteboard back Of
a picture frame costs something, while
any kind OF box or tray will be found
quite expensive IL number are to be
bought.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14
White Moire Photograph Frame

aus HITE moire is at the moment a
M favorite fabric for photograph
frames, upholstered boxes, letter
cases. etc. The decorations used on
this fabric are in ribbon work and
chenille. in pink. pale blue. green and
lavender, in pompadour combinations.
The chenille and ribbon employed are
all very narrow. and the designs are
extremely delicate Paillettes in gold
and silver and crystal beads are also
used for delicate supplementary de-
signs.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14
Brooches of Colored Enamel

~ MONG the new brooches affected by
II young girls are those of enamel in
designs of butterflies and birds.
The fashionable shops show a great va
riety of them and attractive designs in
these brooches. There are charming
colors-pale green. vivid blue. shaded
pink, etc, and both the designs and
colors are particularly suited to use in
the ordinary everyday neckwear OF the
schoolgirl.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14
Screens for Girls Rooms

HARMING screens for girls rooms
1 are made of silk of rather heavy
texture in the pompadour blues and
pinks and trimmed with gold lace or
gold beading. The screens are made of
gilded wood and the silk is pulled on
at the top and bottom. The trimming,
in the shape of a shallow valance
across the top of the screen, is of the
silk trimmed with gold and edged with
gold fringe.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14

self are worn there are generally a
number of sprays or medallions that
are still in perfect condition and can
be placed in the center of pin cush-
ion. small pillow case or handkerchief
bag.
In transferring embroidery from one
piece of material to another the design
is first cut off carefully, small margin
OF the lawn or batiste being left on
either side. by which the design or
piece OF embroidery is then basted on
to the new stuff. The raised work is
then overhanded on all around with the
finest possible stitches and the old ma
terial cut away just close enough to
the embroidery for it not to fray out.
Old night gowns,-underwaists or
chemises can all be utilized In this way
provided the embroidery is sufficiently
heavy to stand being transferred. If
there is real lace, or even a good imi-
tation, in an especially pretty design
on any waist or piece of lingerie this
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14

with the design of the lace, but rather
to improve 1T, to give 1T color and
richness. Where net instead OF lace Is
the background the imagination of the
embroiderer need not be so limited
Any design desired may be stamped
on the lace and either outlined with
the gold thread or cord or with pail
lettes or beads. If the gold thread is
used it is customary to set in heavier
bits of design at intervals. such as
leaves or flowers OF cloth of gold or Of
gold ribbon, applique after the manner
of ribbon work.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14

To line this basket a cardboard disk
Is first cut of convenient size to Mt In
side the wicker frame, and this disk Is
then covered with the silk. Next the
height of the basket Is measured and
the silk cut to correspond, an extra
inch or two being allowed to turn in at
each end. The silk is then gathered on
to the disk. stitched here and there to
the frame. and then drawn up tightly
and fastened to the top OF the basket
with a narrow ruche Of the silk left as
finish. With pink, blue, pale green
or any light pretty shade the gold of
the frame makes a most attractive COM
bination. and the basket. while costing
ridiculously little, will be as effective
as a far more expensive article.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14

with plain satin or chiffon. are ideal
for handkerchief cases. work bags. etc.
Small pincushions are made in cir
cular shape with a piece of lowered
ribbon for the center and frill Of
plain satin caught in at intervals to
make petals. For handkerchiefs there
are large heart shaped cases made of
two pieces of broad ribbon,> padded and
lined with plain silk or satin and
caught together at the points with
small bows of narrow ribbon. Cor
set cases are snade of two long pieces
of ribbon with a double frill of plain
satin all around. A very useful affair
Is a roll on which broad ribbons used
for the hair, for belts, sashes, ETC.,
may be rolled so as to be kept smooth.
These are simply. straight rolls with
wooden bar as center, around which
Is wound cotton padding which has
sachet powder between It's layers. This
roll is covered with the fowered silk,
and at each end there are puffs or
small bows of plain satin.
Small round bags for pieces, work
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14

z lOW that plated skirts are again
M in vogue strict attention must be
afforded the underskirt, for upon
Its fare and hang depend much of the
effect of the entire costume. For city
wear a silk petticoat is infinitely
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14

can easily be made up in another waist
or undervest in an exact duplicate of
the piece that has become worn out.
The secret of economy is the knowing
how to make use of Odds and ends of
things that the extravagant person will
throw away as useless. From the lower
part of an old sheer linen night dress,
chemise or petticoat, OF which the up
per part has worn out, can be manu-
factured attractive covers for the in
dispensable baby pillow or any one
of the numberless small things that go
to make a girls room attractive. A
piece of lace Insertion from some old
dress can border tho four sides of the
pillow, joining the two pieces of mate
rial, and on one side can be appliqued
some heavy raised roses or spray of
flowers taken from bodice no longer
ft to wear. With a lining of bright
pink or blue satin or sateen the lace
and embroidery will show up quite
charmingly.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-14

or suit. but should keep to the sus-
pender and strap dresses, or any sim
pie model of a dress throughout, to be
worn beneath a long. half fitted coat or
ulster. A white waist, or even a silk
bodice, with a separate skirt is never
pretty If there is no foundation to keep
the waist down snugly in back and on
the sides and the skirt from slipping