davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-31

fitting lines, relieved only with shawl
collar and narrow cuffs of MORE or ribbed
silk, are exceptionally smart. Since dark
waists are to be worn entirely with all
forms of street suits, the lining of the
coat should also be of sombre hue, either
of the tone of the cloth or of some har-
monious contrast
Rough Cloths Popular.
Last winter brought in rough serges
and cheviots instead of smooth finished
cloths for general morning wear, and this
year broadcloths, ladies' cloth and al
smooth faced textures are relegated abb
solutely to afternoon wear. Rough
cloths of all possible grades and qualities
are now employed in the making of the
strictly tailor costumes, ribbed effects
and cross weaves being especially in evil
dence Conspicuously marked diagonal
weaves will, however, not be SO smart
this year, as this design was exception
ally popular throughout all of last win
ter The materials are of unusually fine
quality that are employed in the severe
coat and skirt costumes, for, while so
rough of finish and, it might almost be
said, coarse of weave, they are exceed
ingly light in weight in comparison WIN
the warmth. After all, there is no tex
ture so eminently suitable for constant
daily wear in either autumn or winter as
rough ribbed or coarse weave serge,
cheviot or homespun. Broadcloth has for
years been made to answer too many re-
quirements, but is now used only for the
purpose for which it is SO well adapted,
that of handsome afternoon street and
reception costumes
Dark colors still predominant for morn
ing wear, although afternoon dresses are
of lighter tone than last year. For
autumn there are some shades of scarlet
and brilliant red that are charming,
while the new shades of soft brown and
of emerald green make most effective eos
tunes. Black with just bit of white i'll
fine weave is already seen a great deal,
and the darkest gray mixtures are also
TO be worn as much during the winter
months as during the autumn. Abso.
lutely plain black, unless much lightened
Inv n bright colored hat and jabot of lace.
is no longer as popular as was the case
during the last winter.
One distinctive feature of the new
street costumes is the bodice of different
shade. 1t is practically impossible to
wear waist of the same fabric as one
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-31
FASHION DETAILS

n NE of the novelties in the realm of
the tailor made is a trimming which
- looks like applied embroidery but in
reality is worked directly on the suit
material. A charming little street gown
model from Paris was trimmed in this
fashion on the same curved lines shown
in the accompanying cut. The rather
long coat had strips of embroidery run
ming down each side of the front and
curving around the bottom, and there
were bands to match extending the en-
tire length of the sleeve.
At a distance this new embroidery
scarcely shows, for the reason that it is
worked in wool exactly the same shade as
the Suit material. The model was warm
shade of brown, and through the centre
of the trimming, arranged in close lines
at the bottom of the coat, were brownish
tinted buttons shaped like olive seeds but
somewhat larger. They were attached in
perpendicular rows on the back of the
coat, and larger ones were used to fasten
the fronts with woollen cords.
The coat in the illustration is one of
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-31

- UR trimmings for gowns which are
to be noticed on many of the i'm
ported models are in many instances
put on in remarkable fashion. On
a very handsome velvet eown sable
is used to border the guimpe and
the elbow sleeves, below which there are
full sleeves of lace. The eccentric touch,
however, is on the skirt, across the front
of which, about at the knees, there is a
band of fur bordered all around with
lace. This band does not extend across
the sides or back of the skirt. The effect
of the design is rather deserving OF the
old fashioned word "patchy."
Another gown of net and crepe de Chine
had the fur used only on the skirt. The
bodice was of embroidered crepe de
Chine, with net sleeves. The trained
skirt of crepe de Chine had an entire
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-31
Velvet Brocade Coat with Fur
Maison Rouff
BY A. T. AsHMQRE.
Photo Copyright by Reutlingcr
Exclusive Copyright New York Herald

r. n OST important of all the gowns
in the autumn outfit is the
smart coat and skirt street cos
tune. This may be of heavy
silk stuff, although light weight
cloth or serge will prove more
satisfactory in the long run. If economy
must be considered. then this costume
should be made with some reference to
the coming winter and be well interlined
and of color fitted for constant service.
If intended solely for use during the au-
tumn months, then the weight of the
material may be somewhat lighter and
the hue bright red or green or any such
color that, while beautiful in itself, is too
conspicuous to be possible for an every
day gown when there is no other cos
tufre Of the same order to be worn inter-
changeably with it.
So rapidly do the changes of fashion
come nowadays and so inviolable are the
dictates of Dame Fashion to-day that it
is as impossible to wear during the au-
tumn months a costume of the preceding
spring as to be seen in a felt hat after
Easter Sunday. In fact, the most sweep
ing alterations of design and line which
occur throughout the year take place
each fall with the Introduction of the
coming winters fashions, so that old
clothes are more conspicuous in the
autumn than at any other time.
Marked Changes in Skirts.
This year the most marked changes
have all to do with the skirts more than
with the coats and waists of the various
costumes. While many plain skirts are
still to be seen, there is great increase
in the hare and amount of material en-
ployed, and, on the whole, the plated
skirt is more in favor than one too severe
in cut. Deep yoke effects are seen on
the majority of skirts, although in those
Of soft lady's cloth there is considerable
fulness of}haterial about the hips, while
the skirt gives the appearance of being
little, if any, wider about the feet than
just below the waist line. This last is,
of course, too exaggerated a model to
obtain widespread favor and is scarcely
suitable for anything but more or less
elaborate afternoon costume, There is
most varied assortment of designs among
the plated models, some giving a panel
effect front and back, formed of two
three inch box plaits. which are opened
out just a little below the knees. while
again there are displayed many Of the
long familiar full skirts with plaits an
Inch or so apart. fastened down to within
little below the knees. from where the
material is permitted to flare out widely.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-31
FIG. a-su1T OF CORAL CLOTH.

eral design and it is at its best when the
material used is of a brilliant shade. The
only trimming is of stitching and tut-
tons, with the exception of the revers OF
velvet. Buttons and reyers in this cos
tune are of black. the buttons being Jet.
The same model is used with velvet COW
cred buttons and collar in the same shade.
Whatever color velvet is used on the suit
is also used for the full toque, Whleh mas
q turned up brim, faced with shirred
satin. The only ornaments on the hat
are the large jet balls placed on either
side of the front. With this suit is worn
a close fitting bodice of lace and coral
satin.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-31
= AsCINATING indeed are the new

r. fascinating indeed are the new
tea jackets, or breakfast jackets, as
they should be called, for it is this
use which they usually serve. A rose
satin jacket, yelled with dotted net, was
fitted quite closely to the figure and had
a coat back and long ends in the front.
The jacket was open in front and the
space was filed in by surplics waist
coat of the net and satin cut very low in
a becoming V. White lace was arranged
in a surplice inside this waistcoat. The
sleeves of the jacket reached to the elbow
and were of the net fulled over the satin
and quite close fitting. Broad bands Of
ietted net were used to trim the jacket
and there was a narrow border Of jet
all around the bottom.
Cream colored tambour lace over violet
chiffon was used for another jacket This
had a rather full blouse and skirt and
opened over a waistcoat of gold embroid-
cry and violet tulle, cut in V shape and
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-31
THAT EVERY WOMAN SHOULD KNOW

with V of lace inside. The waistcoat
was finished with a crushed belt of cloth
of gold. The elbow sleeves were full and
opened down the outside of the arm over
a pleating of violet chiffon AT the elbow
there were bands and bows of gold ribbon.
A third jacket, of black satin, was made
in tight fitting long tailed coat style, with
short basque in front The skirt of the
coat, quite scant and long, was slit up to
the waist line. The jacket was trimmed
around the neck with a deep band of blue
and gold embroidery, finished at each side
with a gold tassel. The elbow sleeves
were of the satin, laid in soft, diagonal
pleats, with a band of the embroidery set
ON diagonally. The full waistcoat of the
jacket was of black tulle, having black
and white dots, and this was draped over
gold net.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-31

front of the figured net, which was quite
full. The crepe de Chine skirt was !, SO
cut that it would have fallen over TINS
skirt had it not been opened down the
front and caught back at some distance
below the knees by a straight band or
ermine, quite broad and forming the only
relief in color to the long black skirt.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-31
Gray Cloth Costume with Velvet Collar
Maison Martial ct Armand
Photo Copyright by Reutlinger
Exclusive Copyright New York Herald

still long and tight, with frequently wide
turned back cuff. In the thin cloths the
waist is generally of the same MATERIAL
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-31

with perhaps a cape effect at the collar
and a fanciful waistcoat of brocade or en-
broidered silk or cloth. The sleeves are
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-31

sometimes separate from the skirt and
again all in one, on some smart princess
model.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-31

M OST attractive are some of the
new models for party frocks for
children. An exceedingly simple and
beautiful model is made Of white wolfe
over deep pink silk. There is very
deep yoke or shallow bodice made Of
lace and perfectly plain fitting. The
voile skirt is gathered to this and there
are fine tucls at the top of the skirt,
so that it hangs with graceful fulness.
A narrow band of pink silk between the
yoke and skirt Is spaced for beading, and
a narrow satin ribbon run through ties
in a long bow and ends directly in front.
The skirt is trimmed with a band of
lace around the hem.
The guimpe is finished with a little
turnover collar scalloped and cut open
in front. The sleeves have a deep cap
of the lace, narrow at the top and widen
ing toward the elbow, and beneath this is
long tight sleeve of the wolfe tucked.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-31

ILLUSTRATION No. 3 shows a simple
afternoon gown especially suitable for
a young girl. The model may be de-
veloped in voile, crepe de Chine or CASH
mere. The costume shown was of blue
cashmere, with braiding in blue and
crushed belt of black satin fastened with
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-27
AGED JUROR ON
CALHOUN PANEL.
TOB[ b[NED|Ck
Robert Symington, Dean OF
Jury, Gets Love Letters
Daily Through Sheriff
Relatives Say They Suspect
Matrimonial Intent, But
Keep Woman Secret

Who is the young and pretty woman
whose correspondence is daintily
passed up to Robert B. Symington, a.
juror in the Calhoun case, without un-
dergoing the fndignity of being opened
by a cross bailiff?
What young woman in the city is
most anxious for the Calhoun trial to
reach quick conclusion?
What young woman will find JOY in
the fact that verdict has been re-
turned in the Calhoun case, be the
words guilty" mot guilty or dis
agreement?
Robert B. Symington is the dean of
the Calhoun jury. His venerable beard
has marked him conspicuous among
the bakers dozen who sit in the box
and listen with patience and attention
to the reckless speed of testimony that
gushes from the witnesses. He is a
civil engineer by profession and lived
at 22S Liberty street before he was Sc
questered at the st. Francis hotel pend
ing the dreary trial.
Other jurors in the case are permit
ted to receive mall, but the letters are
always slit open by d cautious deputy
sheriff and the missives glanced over
by the officers of the court to see that
no contraband words find their way into
the correspondence.
But Symington is immune from that
caution.
When he was first locked up for
jury duty he appealed one day to Judge
Lawlor. There was something like a
blush on the old mans cheek as he
whispered confidentially to his honor.
He showed the court specimen of
handwriting.
Judge he asked appealing1y, "can.
letters addressed in this hand be given
me without being opened?"
''Why?" asked the Judge
What Symington told the Judge is
only known to the two of them; but
later, it is learned, the juror explained
that he was about to be married when
the jury summons took him away from
t1e WoIiu VI marrying anu giving IN
marriage, and shut him up like cloi-
stored anchorite.
Herbert A. Thrall of 6S Tiffany place
is Symington's son in law. When asked
last night if he knew the identity of
his father in laws fair correspondent
Thrall said that maybe he did, but he
would not tell.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-27
STARTLING INCREASE IN
LOS ANGELES DIVORCES
Figures Show One Decree for
Every Four Marriages

Los ANGELES. May 26.-The first
five months of the year 1909 show a
startling increase in the relative pro-
portion of divorces to marriages in Los
Angeles county, figures which were
footed up today indicating that di-
vorce had been granted since January
last for every four marriages that had
been performed. During 1908 the ratio
was 1 to 6. In San Francisco it was 1
to 7. In the United States it was 1 to
IL. In the five months of the present
Angeles $50 interlocutory DEGREES and
292 final divorces.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-27
COMET NEARER
MILLION MILES
EVERY MINUTE
New Vagrant of Heavens Can
Be Seen With Naked Eye,
Say DISCOVERIES
No Danger of Tail Touching the
Earth, But Minute Sub
stances May Be Dropped
Especial Dispatch to The Call

NEW YORK, May ga comet fly
ing through space at the rate of many
millions of miles minute rediated a
light which was plainly visible to the
naked eye just after sunset tonight
according to Edwin Fairfax Naulty of
$50 Fifth avenue, student of astron-
omy, who is credited with numerous
discoveries in that science.
The comet, whose coma radia, or
direct light, was seen by Naulty, was
discovered by Prof. William r. Brooks
of Hobart college, Geneva, N. Y, Mon
day morning and by coincidence its
approach was noted the same after
noon in New York by Naulty. He said
the comet was between the earth and
the sun and that at sunset tonight its
light was at cross angles with the rays
of tho cup
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-27
is SLAIN
IN STRIKERS FIGHT
First Bloodshed in the Island
Plantation Strife

HONOLULU, May 26.-In a fight
among the strikers on the EVA planta-
tion today one Japanese laborer was
killed. This is the first bIoodshed that
has occurred since the strike of the
sugar plantation workers began. At
Waimanalo the Japanese have quit
work to formulate demands for in
creased wages of the same scale as that
demanded by the laborers on the other
plantations.
The leaders of the strike have an
nounced that their plans for calling
strikes in the other islands will be held
in allegiance pending the result of the
planters managers conference which
will be held tomorrow.
Fifteen hundred strike breakers have
been put to work on the plantations,
400 of whom were hired today. At
Eva 5000 tons of sugar still remain
to be milled, and 10000 tons are in the
same condition at Wailua.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-27
MRS. WALSH DOESN'T
CARE FOR THE '4OO'
Would Not Live in Newport, and
Husband Will Not Buy Mrs.
0elriChs' Home
[Speeial. Dispatsh % Fhe CaIIl

Especial Dispatch to fhe Call
CHICAGO. May 2s.-Mrs. Thomas F.
Walsh. wife of the Colorado mining
millionaire does not look kindly upon
Mrs. Herman oelrichs' comment about
exclusive society. Mrs. Walsh. with her
husband and daughter. Evelyn, are on
their way to their summer home. VOL
hurst, near Denver. For the last two
days they have been stopping at the
Auditorium Annex. and left for Denver
yesterday afternoon.
Il would not live in Newport if that
city. were given to me- said Mrs.
Walsh. 1T makes little difference to me
whether members of Newport society
are willing to receive me or not. The
sad memories and the association of
Newport with the death of my son. Vim
son. who was killed there in August.
1905, in an automobile accident, are too
fresh in my mind. 1 could not live
there after what has happened
When we were there we were
treated with the utmost courtesy and
Kindness by Newport society. The
people were very nice. I do not know
anything about what Mrs. Oelrichs or
any other society woman may have
said about me or mine but it does not
matter.
The story that my husband intended
to. buy RosecHf Mrs. Oelrichs' home
in Newport. is not true. He will never
go back. there-never.
Society does not interest me- We
have lots of friends in Washington
and in New York as well as in Europe.
We are satisfied with our friends. We
are. not seeking recognition in the
'4OO'."
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-27
COODW|NS TO SLIP
OUT OF STAGE LIFE
Will Retire, Says Nat, to Avoid
"AbOminabIe, UnbearabIe
Publicity
ISpeciol Dispatch 10 The Call

OAKLAND; May 26.-Nat Goodwin is
going to retire from the stage, and
Edna Goodrich Goodwin, too, to seek
surcease from the interminable noto-
riety which has pursued them across
countless footlights from one end of
the world to the other. Goodwin said
so tonight in his dressing room at a
local theater.
1--WE haven't decided upon the date
yet" he remarked but it will be in
year or so. We want rest and pri-
vacy, and in order to get them we will
have to give all these imaginative
press agents a rest. 1t is abominable,
unbearable, this everlasting publicity,
and to escape it we are going to re-
tire. When we do, we shall tell no
one about it. We will quietly slide
out of the public view. and there will
be no fuss and turmoil about it,
The beautiful Mrs. Goodwin, arrayed
for the stage, stood at her husbands s
dressing room door and nodded her
Endorsement of his words.
you may be sure that we will make
our home in California. l said not long
ago at a dinner in Los Angeles that
any one who lived outside of Cali
fornia voluntarily was an imbecile and
am always ready to reiterate that
statement. There is only one place to
live, and that is in this state Much
of my property is here. and / am going
to make my home here. Mrs. Good
win and I are both glad that we are
nearing the end of our public careers
All of this was apropos of pub
lished statement that Miss Goodrich
had slurringly criticized Mrs Horton
Phipps Ga valera) dancing. This
both Goodwin and his wife siren
uously denied.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-27
DEMANDS COIN
FROM BANK CASHIER
Goodness of Official Aids in Cap=
ture of Lunatic

REDWOOD CITY. May 26.-Con-
fronted by a wildeyed maniac, who de-
manded a large amount of money and
bonds for services rendered the gov
ernment, Cashier L. P. Behrens Of the
First national bank retained his pres
ence of mind this morning and aided
in the capture of the escaped lunatic.
During a quiet interval this morning
a man of medium size approached the
cashiers wicket and Immediately de-
manded money in large amounts.
Il want bonds and money for my
work for the government" cried the
maniac, at the same time ma king a
motion toward his pocket Behrens
engaged the man in conversation until
the arrival of officers, who had been
summoned by Assistant Cashier Frank
X. Towne. The mans name is John
Poole, and he is a recent escape from
Agnew. He was lodged in the county
jail pending the arrivel of the hospital
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-27
KILLS HIS YOUNG WIFE
AND COMMITS SUICIDE
Seattle Conductors Double
Tragedy Follows a Quarrel

SEATTLE. May 26.-Unsuccessful in
his attempt to effect reconciliation
with Mildred Payne McComb. his II
year old wife of a year, and he got her
to agree to accompany him to Los An
geles. where they might start mar
ried life anew among strangers. j.
W. McComb. aged sS. shot and killed
her at an early hour this morning as
she lay asleep at s4ss Erie street. and
then. crawling over her dead body,
sent crashing into his own brain a
bullet. which. must have caused death.
according to Deputy Coroner William
Barthwick.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-27
HUNDRED DOLLAR BILLS
ARRIVE MYSTERIOUSLY
Recipients at Sea, and Authori-
ties Investigating

DES MONIES, Ia, May 26.-Post-
office inspectors today were asked to
unravel the mystery surrounding the
receipt by a number of residents of
Panora Ia. of letters containing hun
dred dollars bills.
No signature is attached to the let
ters.. one of which bears the postmark
of Portland, Ore.
Five persons admit having received
money totaling s1.125. Mrs. Viola
Lapegiet, widow, received 1925, all in
ten dollar bills with note signed
Your friend"
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-27
DAUGHTERS LEAD
FIGHT FOR CITY PARK
Ask Redwood City Council to
Appropriate Funds

REDWOOD CITY. May 26.-The
members of the local parlor of Native
Daughters have taken up the question
of securing civic improvements, espe-
cially parks, with the city council The
committee, composed of Mrs Dora Will
Coleman, Mrs. Maurice Glennon and
Miss Mary Hanley, were present at the
last meeting of the trustees, and adj
vanced a project for. the .impro vement
of California square. They are en-
deavoring to interest the city fathers
in the expenditure of $4,000 for the
park, to be used for tree and shrub
planting and the construction of tennis
courts.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-27
Hill Gets Into Portland and
Hartman Secures Coveted
Outlet to Puget Sound
RumOr That Wall Street Forced
Magnates to Declare Truce
in Their Warfare
THE CALL FIRST
WITH THE NEWS

There came to light in New
York and the northwest yester-
day intelligence of n combination
between r. III. Hartman and the
Hill interests In Portland and
the Puget sound country, which
was announced in The Call on
March 2S. On March ~ Harri-
man and l.. W. Hin, son of
James j. Hill, the great north
west railroad king, had a confer
enee on the west porch of Frank
CaroIan's club house near Bur-
lfngame. After the conference
both Hartman and Louis Hin
spoke guardedIy of the Important
decision arrived at, and ON the
following day The Call an
nOunced the facts of the great
railroad agreement practically as
they were recapituIated by Julius
kruttschnitt yesterday.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-27
DEMONSTRATION TRAIN
ARRIVES AT MARTINEZ
Throngs Hear Lectures DeIiv-
cred by University Savants
Especial Dispatch TO The Call

SANTA ROSA, May 26-The special
agricultural and horticultural demon
stration train, which is being operated
under the auspices of the Southern
Pacific company and the University Of
California, is at Martinez tonight, after
a trip up the coast from Santa Bargara
and over the San Ramon branch, and
will make run the next three days
through Solano, Napa and Sonoma
counties The train will arrive at Suisun
Thursday morning at $50; Cordelia at
1914; Napa at p. M; Yountville at
4:25s Rutherford at 5:45 where it will
remain over night; St. Helena Friday
morning at $40: Calistoga 11:25: Ell
Verano 2:30 p. M; Glen Ellen 3:4O:
Kenwood 5:15. where 1t will remain
over night; Annadel Saturday morning
at S:45, and Santa Rosa at 1920.
The San Francisco call., 1909-05-27
HONOLULU GOSSIPS OVER
RUMORED ENGAGEMENT
Colonel Sam Parker May Have
Won Wealthy Widow Ena

HONOLULU. May 2s.-There is a per-
sistent rumor here that Colonel Sam
uel Parker, who recently returned from
Cuba with former Governor Baker,
mixed love with business during his alb
sence from the islands and became en-
gagged to marry Mrs. Margaret. Ena,
widow of the late John Ena. now resid-
ing at Long Beach. Cal. Mrs. Ena is a
native of Hawaii and woman of vast
wealth.