The Montgomery advertiser., 1909-04-13
MAKING PERFUlMERY
B Fsederie J. Haskin.


 appeared from Europe when the barba- rians of the North and ths East blottea out ancient civilization. During the Middle Aages perfumes were hardly known in Western Europe. but they survived among Oriental peoples and were redisccvered by the urusaders. From that time on their use became more general " q
 The favorite perfurnes of r&ces. as oi ind1viduais, vary from ume to time. For some years violet has bean fhe favorite in this country. m talxes sS.0o0 Kilograms of this blossom to make one kilogrHm of oil of eviolets. which, however. must be ereafly sliIuf. ed to make the extract of eornmerce Rose has been popular ever since ths Dirth Of that queen of flowers in Per. sra. thousands of years ago, and if re- POTTS are true. the queen Is coming in- so Aer own again with the directoire gown in Paris. Lavender was an .oId favorlte Musk. the most powerful of all perfumes--for an infinitessir1af a.rain of It will scent large room far ,,,anv years without being perceptfblv ra. duced in, bulk--and other "heavyS uer- fumes used to be favored in the mod. ern world. but their odors are obtec- tionable to some people. ssg'.1e . There was q riot in Berlin tram car sumea gears ago on account Of a woman perfuned with musk. - Per- sons using German scoioxne were as- sauited during the siege of Paris and tne use of certain perfumes has free .qoently been association with patrf6t- ism It is the fashion to use only snan apantities of perfumery. now. oriental scents are considered excIu- sive by the society woman.
 The performers have an immense f1efa 70 draw from in carrying on their trade. Over 1QO aromatic substances, animal and vegetable. are known, but there IS every reason to believe that many others are in existence, notably among .ne vegetation of remote parts of Ai.tca and south America. It is pos- sioie that ex-President Roosevelt may discover some of these in his expedi. ton through the Dark. Continent. ! The perfumer draws honey fron, scores of varieties of flowers. native and foreign. His agents SCOUT the for. ests Of the world and secure sandal wood caniphor. rosin and other sweet smening woods and gums. The fruit kinsdom Is levied upon heavily for the OILS of orange, lemon, olive. lime and bergamot, and for the essence of al- monds and peach. apricot and prune kernels. The lowiiest plants, including shrubs, vegetables and weeds. such as mint. pepper, the vanilla bean. and other simple things growing in all climates are not exempt.
 The musk deer of the HimaIyas, the civet cat Of Asia. and the Canadian and siberian beaver are amohe the ani- mals that are hunted for the sub stances they produce. and which the perfumers want. The greatest mann maj Tn existence, the whale, produces the precious ambergris, which forms the base of many perfumes eo which It imparts lasting quality. This ambergris Is found floating on the surIace of the sea. or cast up by the waves, especially along the shores of the Indian Ocean Not even rnetais escape the perfumer. the peculiar odors or some being in certain combinations
 Tn snort, the perfumar neRlects noth- Ing In his nilsson of catering to the oIfactory nerve of the human race. Without having exhausted the re- sources of nature. he ts appealing to science. and synthetic chemistry is do- ing wonders for him. .Ionone" or ar- uhcial violet was first obtained in 1893. Other odors have since been re- produced by the chemist Twenty-fiye thousand pounds of 'svanillin'' or artif- cial vanilla are made every year, and much of 1t used by perSafnera "Ffelio- tropinH or artificial white heliotrope. Is made from the ordinary garden pep hsA' AA AHSAhA peEAuA1S1 VI CaTu0tlOn. hyacinth. and hawthorne are obtained from other vegetables. Tn many cases the odors of these artificial oils are unbeerabIe. It is only by great dilu- ton and by combination with other and natural scents that an acceptable per- tune Is obtained. This is also true of the purely natural essences. The greatest proof of the ability of per- fumer is his success in making suc- cessful blends and combinations.
 It might be supposed that the deveI- opment of ayntsthie chemistry would interfere with the production of natural perfumes, but SO far nature and science have supplemented each other, and 1t ia predicted that this will continue. The cultivation of violets and other flowers for psrfumery purposes Is ac- tuaIly increasing. The perfumer has caught the essence of new.mown hay, but there are many of nRtures scents of which he has not yet discovered the secret, aS, for instance, the refreshing odor of the sea breeze and the de- Iightful ''woodsy" smell of the forest after e, rain.
 perfumery Is recognized as an aid 10 cleanliness and as dlginfectant. Incsnse and sandalwood are used aS deodorizers In the modern home. as they have been in houses of religious worship for ages. Someone has said that the soul must >be located in the olfactory nerve. However that may be, it is a fact that q delicious per fume Is most sxAlting to the senses.
 (Copyright. 1909. by Frederic J.' Haakin.l
 TumoFFavV--Orisnfal RuEss