The morning Astorian. [volume] (Astoria, Oregon) 1899-1930, 1909-03-14
MANEATTANESE STYLES
Of THE HOUR
WHAT UP.To,DATE WOMAN
WEARS, HOW SHE WEARS
IT, AND WHY,

| fashionable silhouette for the spring
season, have been disappointed
There are plenty Of new fashion ideas
in the air and even to be seen in the
shops, but these ideas concern them
selves exclusively with matters OF
color. material, ornanientation and
details, while they show no sharp
divergence from familiar rules as to
outline, 1t is true, the extreme
types have practically disappeared'
they have died out, suceumbing to
the law OF the survival OF the fttest;
but, although considerable liberty as
to waist line etc, is allowed, there is
absolutely no deviation from certain
rules. BoufFancy is tattoo. Even
where there is fulness OF the skirt, ii
must be of the limpest sort, detract-
ing in no way from the prescribed
straight line. The shoulder and arm
line too, must be clearly defined, and
whatever may be the situation later
in the summer, for the moment the
new models intended for anything
except evening wear are long sleeved
An effort has been made to estah-
lish the three quarter sleeve length,
especially in connection with lingerie
blouses, but this length is almost in
variably unbecoming to the average
arm and hand and painfully prone to
suggest a long sleeve shrunk in
laundering,
The claim OF the one-piece fEock
is asserted on every hand, and the
smart walking costume Of the season
viii unquestionably be OF these
simple, iaunty patterns with coat Of
the same material or silk matching
the material in color, rather than the
customary coat and skirt suit with
separate blouse. It must not be as
sumed, however, that the latter COM
bination will be entirely out OF fash
ion or unpopular during the coming
spring and summer
For many purposes such tailored
costume is the one altogether satis-
factory thing. and this is especially
true during the hot summer season,
when GOODNESS Is essential and dust
and perspiration are likely to play
havoc with the frock every day. Lin
gerie blouses and their comfortable
seperate waists OF all kinds will be
used during the coming season just
as they have been used in former
seasons, but the chic street frock will
be one-piece model with coat to
match.
Such costumes, when designed for
hot weather, naturally call for thin
and cool materials. For early spring
very lightweight cloths. broadcloth,
satin cloth, fine serge, Henrietta etc.
are used while for the more advanced
season the various kinds of Pongees
and the endless variety OF handsome
and attractive silk materials now Of
fered in the shops will be employed
Among the numerous styles OF
crepes offered for summer wear is a
new kind with an odd, basket-like
weave which is particularly hand
some. 1t promises to become popu-
lar. Crepe-ena is another novelty
a satin-lustre crepe cloth of exquisite
Then there is peau-de
crepe, a washable silk somewhat like
a heavy India silk in appearance.
Among the good things that have
come and will stay, quickly working
heir way into the favor of good .
lressers, are the beautiful Ottaman |
-oyals and Ottoman reinas. The first |
ire of the Tussah royal family, |
,repey in effect and bearing cords
across the surface to accentuate
lovel thought and mark the apprecia-
ion for repped goods.
The variety of colors and shades
If colors that may be found in nearly
III materials at this time is astound-
ng and fairly bewildering. At the
irst glance it would seem absurd to
peak of one particular color or tint
# color as particularly favored, but,
fter all, there can be no doubt that
reference is given to some colors or
hades. Indications point to a soft,
ight violet color as the dominant one
or spring. One sees it on the new
in the Aowered tulles
nd mousselines, in the bordered
imities and in the soft silks and
lumes. The French dressmakers
ay, on the other hand, that the dull
rick tone, which was called Egypt
an red during the winter will be used |
s the ultra color, The new color
,ill however differ just a triAe in
one from the one which has been in
Sc during the season just ended.
An exceedingly pretty and com
1rtablc looking article Of apparel ,is
ne oyerblouse. The lining, which
lay be made Of soft, sheer material,
lade with high Or square neck, and
Ill or three-quarter one-seam /
eeves. The guimpes and sleeves
lay be mad eof soft, sheer material,
nd trimmed abundantly with lace
nd tucks Of all-over embroidery or
zee. The entire waist is of style G
lat looks the better for such trim $
ling, and one need not be afraid Of {