The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-04-04
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Latest New York Models Quite
Tailor Made" in Outline
Heavy Embroidery Coming
into Vogue

NOV that the eye has become accus-
toned 10 the slender outlines OF
skirts and sleeves, we can smile at the
exaggeration of description with which
these style-changes were heralded, and
the carICatuTe drawings supposed to rep
TeSta' some of the advance models. 1t
was with the same Tidicule, and 1t seems
with more reason, that the Seven-yard-
around skirts and balloon sleeves of, per
haps. fifteen years ago were introduced.
and If we compare the fashion plates OF
the two periods we must admit that 1900
shows a decided advance III the way OF
beauty and good taste.
A fitted sleeve Is not necessarily tight
sleeve; it NAV follow the contour OF the
arm without sacrificing either comfort or
appearance. Not 50 much the sleeve as
The waist-linc has been the trOublOus
question of the Empire models. Every
description accents the so-Called hip
less figure. and when your mirror shows
the possession Of very evident hips. YOU
1eCl these gowns are not Tor YOU
There may be 4 protest at the sug-
gestion for increasing the size of the
waist, but thar IS d part OF the plan
which. If carried out, viii prove Its own
wisdom The same arguments of IN
creased waist measure were used when
the straight-front line was introduced
into the corset, but the result was such
\ general figure improvement that that
feature was forgotten
Remember that the walSt-lluc Is not
the entire figure, and that a generally
symmetrical effect Is TO be preferred to
2 fixed waist-measure. This much OF
good work IN the CatjSe of good looks
has the Empire vogue done, though It re
uuired demonstration 20 prove It In
stead of stout woman getting herself
into a costume or coat that curves IN at
the back and sides to the smallest pos
sible waist, then out again TO full round
hips, let out the corset until the line Is
4 gradual, not a sharp curve, and have
the garment fit easily. II YOU will look
at figure IN what Is known as d semi.
fitted coat, where the waIst-hnC Is only
suggested, not defined, you will recognize
u nearer approach to SlendernesS than
had seemed possible.
The High Waist-Lins
Skirts cut with the high waist-line are
becoming more popular every day They
must be mounted on a girdlc foundation
that FITS closely, but the skirt portion IS
not daTtCd III to 4 snug TT; It hangs cas-
ily from the top OF the girdle support.
When an outside g:rdie of ribbon or silk
Is used, It Is drawn snugly at the upper
lower, which Is really the regulation
waist-line. Though the Empire gown
proper Is long enough to lie on the
ground all around, this length IS imprac-
ticable for any but gowns for indoor
wear. The shorter lengths are not aw!l-
ward, though the average walking length
this season is somewhat longer than last
year, the skirt just escaping the ground
evenly all around.
Nor IS the width so great, and gored
skirts are more often seen than plated
models. Where a suit formerly meant
two pieces-a skirt and coat-the popu-
lar form now IS called "three-piece COS
tune" with waist skirt and coat match
ing The waist IS not necessarily of the
same material as the skirt nor need 1t
be actually attached to 1t.
Net dyed III all the staple coiors IS
perhaps first favorite for waists 1t har-
monies. for this purpose, with prac-
tically any other material, and can be