Arizona republican., 1909-04-18

. trimmed of, leaving only enough cloth to extend safe distance beyond the stitching. The remaining seam edge Is turned under and hemmed either by hand or machine 10 the cloth, covering the stitching and the narrow raw edge of the first seam.
 Inserting Lacs
 There is SO mitch inexpensive lace to be found principally the French and German Val limitations, that II Is greatly used 10 trim even the most inexpensiyely planned garments; but the very cheap qualities have little of beauty O.. service to commend them; only the better grades, which closely follow the reaIlaCr patterns, are suitable for the really nice clothing that one expends the time and labor to make For underwear II will be infinitely better to use ruffles and frIlls of the material, which may or may not be edged with narrow lace A very good effect, without the use of lace, Is obtained by making the frills of fine sheer lawn or dimity. the contrast with the nainsook, carIbric or longc'Oth of which the garment IS made greatly in- creasing their decorative yz.ue
 If simple frills seem falling into disuse. it Is because the art of preparing them properly-stroking the gathers, il used io be called-is practically a lost art. yet without this neat s;roking the irills lose greatly in value and importance. A small section of frill, gathered and stroked. is shown at illustration III.
 The gathering IS done in the usual manner. with what is called the uneven running-stitch, the stitch CT the under side being only half the length of that on the upper, though all the stitches on either side must be alike in length. Do not use thread that Is too long: If the gathered edge when finished Is to be more than three-qGarteTs of yard long. II Is better 10 use two threads and divide the rutfie into halves, marking al each division with a oolored thread: divide and mark the edge to which the rufie Is to be appl;ed in the same manner.
 Alter the edge is gathered, draw the thread out at the left-hand side of ;he gathers, drawing the edges up very full: run i'll a pin perpendicularly into the leit-hand end of the ruffie and wind the drawn-out thread around 1t under the head and the point in the form of the figure s. Use coarse needle 10 stroke and place it in the fold of each stitch. laying a little plait toward the left and holding il under the thumb oi the left hand
 Gathering . Rure
 Do not cratch the material with the needle; use It only to stroke each piaIt gently into place. After the gathers are strokcd. remove the pin at the end and distribute them evenly over the length of thread A rufle gathered in this way must be attached in a manner that will conceal the raw edge If only seam al lowance Is provided, lay the right side ot the frill against the right side O: the garment to which 1t Is to be attached. with the seam edges even; haste the seam, then lay over the frin a narrow piece of the material to serve as a fac ing and incirdc its edge in the same scam and stitch it. Turn the facing over on the inside of the garment; turn under the edge and hem it This finish IS sometimes called false hem.
 At illustration " is shown the method of insctting the frill in regulation hem. Cut the hem along its lower fold edge. seam the frill to this edge, then turn under the lower edge of the undcrfold of the hem and hem it, either by hand or machine, to cover the raw edges of the seam.
 There Is another method of gathering a rlffie that was commonly employed bv the expert needleworkers of our grand mothers day. and that is the rolled and whipped ruflie shown at illustration V. There IS little knack to the rolling. which. however, may be readily acquired. and the stitch IS regular overcasting- stitch taken at regular distances over the rolled edge.
 The rolling Is begun at the right-hanl side by rolling over the corner, and once started Is easily continued across. being done by the thumb and finger of the lei, hand and kept only far enough ahead of the whipping to have the edge properly prepared for each stitch These gathers require no stroling. as the drawing uo of the thread folds each stitch into it's proper place. There is no raw edge 10 be disposed of when a whipped rufir is to be attached to garment The ruflle IS measured, the fulness distributed. evenly over the desired space. then hoh!- ing the whipped edge oi the rr;ifie even with the edge to which ii is to be ap- piled. second TOW or overland stitches IS made through both.
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