davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1909-08-09

morrow every dray or other wagon driver who is not wearing union permit badge will be stopped by strikers. No excep- tion, it was stated. will be made for own- CTS driving their own wagons. The union further threatens to frustrate the at- tempt of the Stockholm Street Car com pany to start it's cars tomorrow on the important lines with the aid of the com panys officials and stril1ebreakers. Over 1000 telephone and telegraph employees will strike Wednesday.
 The Employers association is paying out S40,000 daily to support it's weaker members. The cash in the association's treasury is sufficient to keep up this sup port for three weeks, and when the funds in the treasury are exhausted the asso- ciation has a reserve fund of $4,500000 which may be used. The strikers are daily receiving large contributions from Denmark Norway, Finland. Germany. Roumania and Bulgaria. /x
 prominent journalist, Gust \ :. .as been summoned to court by o ,S .plic prosecutor, charged with a e Ainst the penal code, that of exho . em- ployes of the state railwai C ike.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1909-08-09
MANY LIVE BANKS
 IN MISSISSIPPI

Jackson, Miss, August s.-(special. J. The bank statement recently published by Auditor Smith shows the assets and liabilities and the banking capital of every town and hamlet in the state. and comparisons showing the combined strength of the banks of the four largest cities in the state are of interest.
 The bank with the largest capital is at Hattiesburg, the First National Bank of Commerce, which has $2177, ,2S5. Natchez comes second, the Britton & Koontz bank having s2,130,020.
 Vicksburg, with 12 banks, shows as- sets of $6,7S1,901.
 Jackson, with Ii banks, has $500S,77
 Natchez, with seven banks, has S4S3S, ,519.
 Meridian. with five banks, shows up with $4,355, 465.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1909-08-09
Report of the Picayune.

New Orleans. August S.-Generally fav- orable reports as to the condition of the cotton crop in Louisiana and Mississippi have been received by the Picayune from states.
 In summarizing the conditions it is stated:
 The rapidly maturing cotton crop in Louisiana and Mississippi enjoyed a fav- orable week Complaints of boil weevil continue to be received, though the rav- ages of the pest have been more or less discounted
 The crop In Mississippi is holding it's own. with the reduced acreage well culti- vated and the plant rapidly approaching maturity Some complaint is made of the boil weevl in several of the eX- treme western counties.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1909-08-09

distinct loss in South Carolina.
 In Texas and Oklahoma there has been sharp deterioration and the situation Is critical
 There is complaint of boil weevil in some districts but the damage cannot be estimated at this time.
 The crop is very spotted and is pc euliarly subject to unfavorable eondi- tions.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1909-08-09
Aviator smashes Machine.

Chalons- Sur -Marnes. August S.-Roger Sumner, the aviator who yesterday flew hours. 20 minutes and 57 seconds in his aeroplane, breaking the worlds record, held by Wilbur Wright. essayed another flight today. He stopped his engine too abruptly, however, and the machine struck the ground with such violence that it was smashed Sumner was unnjured
The Birmingham age-herald., 1909-08-09
Swallowed His Teeth.

Punxsutaneyi Pa, August Slew phy- sicians ever operated upon man with the same object as did the doctors at the Adrian hospital here today when an ab- dominal ncision was made on Peter Jack son, white man. Jackson. while drink ing bottle of pop at his home. dislodged his false teeth and swallowed them physician. unable to recover the moars forced them into the mans stomach and then rushed him to the hospital, where the operation was performed Jackson Is in critical condition
The Birmingham age-herald., 1909-08-09
Times.pemocrat,s Report.

New Orleans. August s.-The Times Democrat will tomorrow say in its sum mary of cotton crop conditions:
 Tn Arkansas, Georgia, Louisiana, Mis- sissippi and Tennessee improvement has been the rule.
 North Carolina, as a whole, shows no important change, but there has been
The Birmingham age-herald., 1909-08-09
Railroad Man Suicides.

Anderson. S. C., August S-Warren ouyton. aged s5, a baggagemaster of the Atlantic and Western railroad between At lanta and Chattanooga. committed suicide at his homo here this morning by jumping into well. He had been in i'll health for several years.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1909-08-09
Trying to Stop White Slavery.

Pittsburg, August S.-Deprecating the white slave traffic and urging the people to unite and take a firm stand in an effort to suppress it, Bishop J. F. Regis Canevin of the Pittsburg diocese reused a large audience in Carnegie hall to enthusiasm tonight at mass meeting of the delegates to the convention of the American ederal Catholic societies. The convention was formally opened here this morning with solemn pontificial mass at St. Paufs cathedral. Bishop Canevin was the cele- brant.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1909-08-09

powers-Great Britain, Russia, France and Italy-held a conference today at Therapia. the summer colony of the am- bassadors on the west coast of the Bos- phorus, and will reassemhle tomorrow to agree upon 9 common action which will be taken without delay
 The agitation against Greece is grow ing in the Turkish provinces. In some towns it has taken the form of boycott of Greek goods. The war minister has received news of the formation of a vol unteer force of 5000 men at Monastir, which is ready to march against Greece.
 Reply Is About Ready.
 Athens. Greece August S.-It is stated that the Greek reply to Turkey will be delivered Tuesday. The representatives of the powers are holding frequent con- ferences with the premier and foreign ministers.
 An Austrian squadron and an Italian warship have arrived at Volo. It is sup posed they are on the way to Saloniki
The Birmingham age-herald., 1909-08-09

along this northern shore of Massa- chusetts and they will be among the first cf the Presidents callers.
 Tie President Is as it as he can be physically. The long grind of the con- greasIana' reason and the hot weather at Washington did not seem tt af- feet him in the least yet he dettared today that he hoped his stay at Beverly would be as dull as it possibly could be made.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06

hard to say the right thing and to say il
properly" said Rosamond in despair
ing tone. =, ~.
her mother. Tt will help you more IN
your underwriting if you do that than il
| should dictate Remember that nota
of that sort should be your own. A
friendly note, note of appreciation for
gift, should be natural, spontaneous.
1t must not be abrupt, but it need not be
long 1t may be enthusiastic without
being gushing Your friend has taken
time to think Of you, and to choose
something which she hopes may please
you. | am sure you are not Indifferent,
but you have allowed three days to pass
without acknowledging her present
The simplest rule about writing
friendly note is to think what you would
say if speaking What would you say
to Alice if you saw her at this moment r
Perhaps / would say, Alice, dear, it
was charming of you to send me that
pretty fan. 1t is just what | have been
wishing for. ! am delighted with it''
"That is very natural and will do very
we'll Write it. You may add some
thing of this sort, hope that may see
you soon, when can tell you personally
how much pleasure you have given me"
and sign it Yours affectionately.'
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06

even when it does not actually scratch.
A prepared collar foundation that | have
seen, and which has recently been placed
on sale in the shops, seems to have solved
the problem by bonihg with a single
length of collarbone that is carried up
and down and along the shaped collar
that is made of mousseline de sole.
There are no ends of the collarbone ex-
cept at each side of the back, and here
the ends are turned under three-eighths
of an inch, SO no sharp points can pro-
ject. The collarbone is stitched by ma
chine to the mousseline collar. When
one of these prepared foundations is
used itNis fitted TO the neck of the
guimpe, then covered with lace matching
that of the chenisette
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06

to fit the lace into place; as no shoulder
seams are made in it, the tapping and
joining of the lace may be done wherever
it will come most conveniently. Basic
the front piece in position first, then each
of the back portions. BE careful to pre-
serve the curve of the shouder-line
notching the lace, if necessary, to Sc
cure it. Hem the edges of the lace to
the guimpe
Make the shoulder Jennings with over
hand stitches taken over the thread that
forms the outline of the lace design, fol-
lowing it far enough around each figure
to make the joining secure. Join the
spaces of net that come i'll between these
figures by taking short overland stitches
through both layers of net. After all
these stitches are made, trim the net
away around the lace figures and along
the over-handed lines, but not too close
to the sewing in either case. If any of
the plain Jennings in the lace seem too
prominent, they may be broken by tax
ing small figure from the cuttings Of the
lace and applying it to the net by over
handing around the design. Run a
thread around the lace one-quarter of an
inch from the neck edge, to hold it to
the same size as the fitted lawn guimpe.
From the inside trim away the lawn
from under the lace, leaving about one
quarter of an inch beyond the line of
sewing that attaches it to the lawn, turn
over the raw edges and hem them down
| to the lawn.
The fitting of the collar is matter of
considerable Importance, and more at
| tention than usual is being given to it
this season. The shaping Of the top out
| line must necessarily vary on different
persons, but the inclination is to slope it
up as. high at the back and sides as it
can be worn. The neck of the guimpe
should always be as high as possible at
| the sides. If, in the fitting, it is too high,
causing the shoulder to wrinkle, it is
better to slash the edges than to pare
them away. A collar that pulls wide at
the sides of the neck is uncomfortable
and unbecoming. This is particularly
| true when the neck is short. Increasing
the neck-line at the lower edge of the
collar increases the apparent size of the
teck and is the reverse of the treatment
required in fitting stout neck.
The front may need to be cut some
what low, but the sides should be KEEP
as high as possible The best way tc
make a correct neck-line is by pinnine
around well-shaped collar that is either
cut from stiff material or boned to pre-.
serve the shape. Everyone knows tn.
difficulties OF finding satisfactory anc
painless collar-supporter Boning tina
| will hold the collar up usually pokes into
the neck in most uncomfortable fashion
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06

Mohair seems as certain a standby as
broadcloth, and though the preference
this spring is for single solid-color
cloth, in one of the staple or newer
shades, certain diversity is gained by
variations in the weaving, as in the
checked effect woven into the mohairs
and serges with clearinghouse stripes
Voilcs in plain black and black and white
are likely to find increasing favor, and
some of these are shown in bordered
goods. These are the double-width ma
terial with a woven border on one edge
Considerable dressmaking skill is neces-
sary in producing a gown from bordered
material; for that reason they will prob
ably never be universally popular
The Spring and Summer Materials
On these fine transparent voiles the
selvage is often employed as a decorative
feature: tunic drapery, for instance,
instead of being fcmmed, will be finished
with the sewage, left on for that pur-
pose. 1t is part of the dressmaker's art
to study her material, that she may make
the most of all its possibilities Even if
the time has not yet come to wear cotton
fabrics the forehanded woman is think
ing of them, and this summer she will
see the return Of an old favorite-cotton
sateen, influenced probably by the success
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06

dyed to match any shade This dyeing
is not difficult, and may be done at home
The extremely fashionable sleeves are
long, even extending well over the hand,
but it seems likely that, for midsummer
at least, comfort will make the three
quarter or elbow length popular.
Long Goats in lightweight Gowns
Long coats-4o and 45-inch lengths
and in the seni-ftting models, are being
shown for spring, and will probably hold
their favor through the summer, es-
pccially in linens, pongees and similar
lightweight materials. Sleeves on these
coats are of the long, close-ftting kind
and have very little fitness at the arm
hole. Small notched collars, similar to
those on mems coats, and the collarless
finish, will both be used, the latter es-
pecially With the ruches Of almost every
imaginable material now represented
among neck accessories.
In woolens there are the transparent
fabrics in one class-the voiles and It's
sues that must be draped over suitable
lining; and the heavier goods, which are
usually made with lining in the waist
portion only. In these heavier fabrics,
though they are of the Gghtest possible
weight, the smooth satin finish is best
liked for more dressv wear. Broadcloth
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06
When and What TO Write
By Mrs. FRANK LEARNED
II OSAMOND, dear" said Mrs
AN Wright, 81 have something for yot

:" r o ;,5 \, n dear" said Mrs.
to do this morning"
what is it, Mothcr?'
II want you to be my secretary and at
tend to some of my notes and invita-
tons"
Rosamohd seated herself at her
mothers writing-desk, saying, 81 like to
sit down at your desk, Mother. 1t is SO
well supplied with writing materials
note-papcr, pens, ink, blotting- paper,
statnps-cverything ready to use. 1t
makes me feel like writing"
81 want you to begin to-day to keep
my desk in order, and to study the de-
tails Of underwriting, which is an art that
should be practised by every woman
who wishes to be polite"
1t seems to be talent to write notes
well,' said Rosamond with sigh. 81
am afraid | shall never be able to do it"
Yes, it is an accomplishment. A
very small talent can be improved by
giving time and thought to it. Every
one may not find it easy to acquire a
charming or graceful style in note-writ-
ing, but you will find that facility comes
by practice
What sort of notc-paper do you like
best? ?" asked Rosamond.
plain white, rather heavy in quality,
is always in good taste Pale gray is
used by many people. The size is about
six and half inches by FIVE. You will
find a larger size in my desk for letters,
and a smaller size, about five inches by
four and a half, for short notes or invi-
tations. Note-paper is folded once to fit
the envelope. | like to have the adj
dress engraved across the top of the
note-paper, but it is allowable to write
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06
\ Perfect Fitting Cuimpe-Praeti-
cal Directions for the Making Of
This Ever Useful Article

THE guimpe or under-blouse is so
firmly fixed as a component part Of
the costume-gown that the best and most
practical method of arranging it be-
comes question of Importance. 1t is
usually made of light, sheer fabric, and
if cut by shirt-waist pattern and al
lowed to remain the full length, the ma
terial at the waist will form an extra
thickness under the over-blouse that may
just as well be avoided. A shirt-waist
of even the simplest description will al
ways be more becoming if it has one
wide or several very narrow trcks at
the shoulder-line. There may be only
three or four OF these little tucks, be-
ginning at the ar1nhole, or an equivalent
amount of material may be gathered into
the shoulder seam, but the trihe Of full
ness will allow just enough ease across
the bust to avoid the strained look that
a perfectly plain waist, unless very loose
ly fitted, is certain to have. The guimpe,
on the contrary, will be better if made
perfectly plain, for the portion. that
SHOWS at the centre-front should lie
smooth and fiat, be the figure either full
or slender; the requisite fitness to give
ease to the waist will be in the over
blouse
~ ne gul1lpe is most o1te1l SHOWN
to chemisette depth only, but everyone
who has tried knows the inconvenience
of keeping the small chenlisette in posi-
ton inside neck opening to which it is
not sewed. 1t will be much more secure
~ comfortable if it be attached to a
gdimpe of lawn that may be held down
from the waist. The method by which
this result may be attained, and at the,
same time the fulness of material at the
waist avoided, is shown in the illustra-
tons. Fit the under-arm seams and the
shoulders and neck carefully French
seams may be made, but felled seam
gives a hatter finish at the shoulder
Hem the lower edge, and if the guimpei is
to be sleeveless, make very narrow
hem around the arm-holes or apply a
narrow bias facing Hem the lower
edge of the guinpe, and sew loops of
e-half-inch-w tape to the edge
Try on the guimpe, and make each tape
loop long enough to reach exactly to the
natural waist-line Apply one loop at
each side of the centre-front, and one at
each side of and quite close to the cen
tre-back. 1t is impossible to place loop
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06

used this season, the guimpe must have
sufficient length to extend safe dis
lance below them, and it may be advis-
able to add an extra loop of tape at each
side. The guirnpe illustrated was made
of lining lawn, and was intended as a
support for the lace which is inset in
chemisette forrn-none of the lawn show
ing when the over-blouse is worn. The
guimpe itself, however, may be inset
with n1edallions or insertion or be hand
embroidered: Fine lawn or batiste
should be used in this case, but the orig
inal preparation of the guimpe would be
the same. The trimmings to be applied
should be pinned into the desired posi-
tons, then basted in place. After the
trimming is pinned in place on the one
side, double the guimpe evenly through
the centre-front, bringing the back and
the under-arn seams evenly together,
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06

and pin the trimming, in the same posi-
tons, to the other side.
At the second illustration is shown
the method of insetting solid piece of
lace, avoiding seam at the shoulder.
All-over lace may be used, though in this
case it was an odd piece of ten-inch deep
lace founcing, the edges being joined at
the shoulders by tapping the back por-
ton over the front, and appliqueing the
lace design on the latter to the net top of
the lace used for the front portion It
is an easy matter, after the guirnpe is
fitted and the shoulder-seams completed,
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06

run a length of tape through ali the
loops and tie it around the waist.
The guimpe is usually cut long enough
to extend few inches below the bust,
and continue, on corresponding line
on the figure, across the sides and back,
but even if it be cut shorter, the loops
will hold it down. The greater length
is, of course, preferable when sleeves are
included, though in any case it will be
more satisfactory to have the guinpe ex-
tend at least two inches below the un-
der-arm. When the over-blouse has the
large arm-holes that have been so much
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06

at the exact centre on account of the
closing, but they should be placed as
near the centre as possible without in
reference with the tapping, SO that the
two loops may pull as one. Place loop
at each under-arm seam and two more at
each side Of the guimpe, one between the
front and the under-arm, and the other
between the under-arm and the back,
making five loops on each side Sew
them securely to the hernmed edge of
the guimpe, and when it is to be worn
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06

an address at the top, toward the right,
if it is not engraved Remember that
a letter is dated at the beginning on the
right-hand side; note is dated at the
end on the left-hand side. Very inn
portant elementary things in note-writing
are handwriting, spelling, punctuation,
correct beginnings and Examinations.
Be careful always to write legibly and
straight. If you are in doubt about the
spelling of word, consult dictionary.
Do not abbreviate.
"What are obligatory notes? asked
Rosamond.
GAS a rule, they are replies to anything
where hostess requests the pleasure OF
your company, or you feel sure that she
will wish to know whether she may ex-
pect you. For instance, here is an invi-
tation | have just received to formal
luncheon 1t is obligatory to reply.
Write the reply in the same form as the
invitation, in the third person.
Mrs. Wright accepts with pleasure
Mrs. Robinson's invitation to lunch
con on Tuesday, March third, at
half-past one o'clock.
"You see that the date and hour must
avoid mistakes or misunderstanding.
After Rosamond had written the re-
ply Mrs. Wright said, Il intend to give
luncheon for my friend, Mrs. Howe.
1t will be pleasant way for me to meet
some old friends and make new ones. |
have consulted with her about the date,
and she tells me it is convenient for her.
| shall send informal invitations and
must write them myself. shall say:
DEAR Mrs. ROBINSON:
Will you give me the pleasure of
your company at luncheon on
Thursday, March the fifth, at half
past one o'clock? am asking
| some friends to meet Mrs. Howard
Howe, who has returned recently
to town to live, after long absence,
and | hope you can come.
Yours sincerely,
CONSTANCE WRIGHT"
In little while Rosamond said, hest
| tatingly, Il want to write to Alice to
thank her for the birthday present she
/ sent me-"
Have you forgotten to do so?" asked
| Mrs. Wright in surprise. you mist
not delay another moment"
! mo, had not forgotten, but it is so
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06
STEAMED FRUIT PUDDING

Sift together one and three-quarter
cupfuls of -four, half level teaspoonful
each of soda and cinnamon, and a fourth
of teaspoonful each of cloves and nut
meg; add one and half cupfuls fruit
raisins, currants and citron mixed-and
mix thoroughly. Melt a fourth of a cup
full of butter in half cupful of hot mo-
lasscs, add half a cupful Of milk, and stir
gradually into the -four mixture. Turn
into well-buttered half-pound cocoa or
baking powder cans, and steam about an
hour and half Serve with hard sauce.
Dates or figs chopped fine make an agree
able change in place of the fruits given.
Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06
ENTIRE WHEAT PUDDING

Sift together two cupfuls of entire
wheat -four, level teaspoonful each OF
soda and cinnamon and half a level tea
spoonful of cloves; add cupful Of
chopped apples and a cupful of raisins
citron and nuts, mixed. Heat half a cup
full of molasses, add third of cupful
of butter and, when melted, a cupful Of
milk, then stir gradually into the first
mixture. Mold and steam. Serve with
hard or lemon sauce This very excel
lent pudding, and most palatable one,
requires no eggs, which is desirable adj
vantage when eggs are scarce and high