The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1909-07-06
FADS AND FASHIONS

New York-With the advent Of sum-
mer weather snowy linen frocks IN the
severest Moyen Age style began to
make their appearance at Longchamps
and at the tAa-rooms on the Bots. Be-
fore Decoration Day in New York these
white linen Moyen Age costumes were
to be seen in the smart restaurants.
Worn with the huge black hats that
are the fad of the summer. these sim
ply cut white linen frocks are very
modish. indeed, and most Of them have
touches in black in tiny Jet buttons or
trig little neckties
The heavy imitation cluny and tor
chon laces are used for the long front
panels which decorate these Moyen Age
linen frocks. and, OF course, the wealthy
elegante will order real cluny and even
real Irish crochet put into her morn
ing frocks of linen for casino wear.
Imitation lace of heavy character will
answer quite as well for ordinary cos
tunes, but the woman who makes her
Moyen Age dress at home must bear IN
mind that very heavy lace only is ap-
propriate. Ernbroideries in the bold
eyelet patterns on cambria are also used
with these frocks and with these heavy
embroideries rows Of white crochet but
tons are very effective.
Darned net some of the popular
features of the present fashion. Early
last summer the exclusive French dress
makers sent out satin costumes show
ing yokes, insertions and some times
whole f1ounces of net darned by hand
in wonderful embroidered effects. The
more wide-awake lace manufacturers
set Immediately to work and now most
beautiful machine-darned net trim
mings are obtainable at quite moderate
prices.
The jumper, although in a greatly
modified form, Is again in high favor.
Formerly the jumper was loose and bag
like. It had exaggerated armholes fin
ished with straight borders, which gave
an extended shoulder line, and beneath
1t was worn guimpe with full elbow
sleeves. The new jumper, however, re-
veals every line Of shoulder, bust and
arms The dressmaker calls 1t bolero
or cuirass, according to whether 1t
reaches the waistline or comes below
the hips. and it is worn over guimpe
which is as clinging and form reveal
ing as itself.
These closely fitting bodices are also
much higher about the neck than the
Jumper Of former days, and instead OF
having the wide sleeveless armholes
they show either the whole sleeve be-
meath or have little half-sleeves which
reach to the elbow, the guimpe sleeve
peeping out below. While the new
guimpe do not need as much trimming
about the neck demand a great deal
more on the sleeves In fact. the
sleeve is now a paramount Importance
and often more work is put on 1t than
on any other portion of the bodice.
Net guirpes may be brought with at
| tached sleeves, and some of these
guimpes might easily serve as
blouses, so elaborate is the lace and
tucking which ornaments the body oil
the guimpe as well as the sleeve. 1t is
much more economical, however, te
purchase the little separate half.
! sleeve and yokes. which may be picked
up at quite low prices. and attach then
to a net foundation or one of mex
pensive lawn.
In the end 1t is always much NOR
satisfactory to take the extra troubl
/ of sewing the half-sleeve and yolx
| fast to a foundation OF this sort, 70
the loose half-sleeves are difficult t
sew neatly into the tight sleeves of tn
summer frocks and the yoke or chemls
cite. If not held down firmly by htte
foundation. is apt to ridge up In ugl
| wrinkles about the neck.
All-over embroidery is used for yoke
and sleeves to be worn with mornin
dresses of cotton or linen fabrics, an
the finer Swiss embroideries, whic
show dotted patterns or tiny f1owe
sprays, are in better taste for sue
guimpes than the elaborate eyelet et
fects Here a very sher effect is de
sired for more dressy frocks, tucked n