davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18
Fashions for Home Made Lingerie

ed. For this reason a fitted corset
waist is preferable to chemise. which,
unless it is fitted in at. the waist with
the lower part of skirt added separate
ly below a band of beading, is sure to
interfere with the fit Of the shirtwaist
and skirt worn over it.
Cheap lace is of all things to be
avoided on underwear. and if a girl
can not afford a really good valen-
fine embroidery. For a young girl the
most attractive nndergarrhents are OF a
sheer quality of linen, trimmed only
with hand scalloping and perhaps some
simple design OF hand embroidery. The
open English embroidery is now pre-
ferrsd to the French and Swiss work
and this is, of course, the most effec-
tive. Also Irish lace. or rather baby
Irish edslng and insertion. have taken
the place for the moment of the finer
valsnciennes. which, exquisitely pretty
as IT IS when first put on, never looks
well after the first washing. Irish, on
the other hand, is, If anything, i'm
proved by soap, water and ironing.
When she is making her own lingerie
a girl should always turn out her
undergarments In complete sets and
not wear lace trimmed chemise with
an embroidered corset waist or petit
coat trimmed with one kind of a lace
and waist of another design.
Naturally, too. of course, all gar
ments must be trimmed with the one
shade of ribbon. This summer white
ribbon is preferred for the under waist
and pettieoat when a gown of sheer
texture is worn, and satin is now in
vogue rather than the wash ribbon
formerly so fashionable. The satin,
however. must be double faced.
It is as important today for petit
coat to have Its band OF inch wide
beading with ribbon run through as
for the corset waist itself to be thus
adorned. Beading can always be added
to a skirt above the fiounce, and IL the
skirt Itself is of sufficientiy good quail
ity and trimming it is well worth while
to add this little finish should the skirt
have been bought without it.
Silk shirts are decidedly costly, but
to make are comparatively inexpensive
and for warm weather are both hygienie
and comfortable. Cut from any silk OF
paper pattern. The undershirt can
easily be finished at the neck with a
narrow beading and an edging OF lace
With little ingenuity a tiny wreath
or small floral spray can be drawn on
the shirt and easilv embroidered, thus
making this garment the equal of the
most expensive article of it's kind ia
be found IN the shops.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18

foils with such skill that they can
parry and thrust with their brothers.
In the city there are few excellent
clubs for the purpose of promoting In
terest in this noble art. Tournaments
are frequently held, and exhibitions
which are a credit to the teachers and
pupils are given during the fencing
season.
For girl who has grown bit rusty
on fencing and needs only a few point
ers the following will be found useful,
and even the amateur who wants to
learn the art of fencing win find them
of great value: First of ell the fencer
should learn how to grasp the foil.
This should be held firmly so that a
quick strain from the adversary's
thrust will not loosen the hold, yet 1t
should not be gripped or the hilt
clutched in the hand. Too firm hold
will strain the wrist and forearm. Let
the hand lie fiat on the convex part Of
the hilt, forefinger extended along the
foil and the other fingers eurled about
the hilt and resting fiat against the
left side, touching each other lightly.
There is great deal of science in
the grasp Of the foil, for through her
blade the fencer understands her OPP
ponent's play and her sword must be
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18
A College Girls Touring Equip
nlent


N anticipation of trip of several
weeks duration through region
where first class hostelries are con-
spicuously absent a college girl of
practical mind has provided herself
with a number of small and easily
packed conveniences
Into a fiat dressing case of pigskin
lined with morocco and fitted with
tooth and soap boxes she has found
space for manicure set, a sanitary
closed case containing a hair brush
having a celluloid plate under the bris-
ties to insure easy cleansing. a pack
age of nonscented dry shampoo powder
for freeing the hair of oil and dust. a
metal box holding q tiny powder pun. a
securely fastened wooden case for
quarter ounce screw top bottles of
ammonia. peroxide and witch hazel and
silk lined morocco heart shaped at
fair holding four sterling silver ribbon
runners and thread reels. A beveled
mirror set into the back of Aka inch
black seal envelope purse. which holds
stationery, fountain pen and its filler,
is protected by a feather weight rub
berized silk raincoat and hat and a
dark hooded kimono, which can be
folded into an infinitesimal amount of
space.
In addition to the toilet conveniences
the travelling case accommodates a pint
coffee pot of dull copper with remov-
able inside percoiator. nickel teapot
which may be tilted to regulate the
beverage to the desired strength, a
poacher which cooks six eggs and a
nonexplosive alcohol chahug dish lamp
which generates its own gas.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18

y HE decalogue of good behavior
embraces a code which covers a
wide field. but. though there is
much to learn about good manners,
fortunately when once one forms the
habit of taking pains about the little
things. as well as the big, it is
astonishing how rapidly improvement
rewards our efforts.
One of the little things to constant
ly bear in mind is to refrain from call
ing attention to deficiencies, either
your own or those of your friends.
Nothing embarrasses more than being
made aware of our defects by others.
and sometimes consciousness of our
own gets such hold on us that it
makes us appear most awkward and
Ill at ease.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18
Birthday Dolls

HE girl who wishes to remember
the birthday anniversary of some
small feminine relative or friend
will find visit to the doll emporiums
entertaining and instructive. Instead
or the conventional baby features and
Earb, dolls now have faces of varying
ages and are dressed accordingly.
There are replicas of the summer
girl solfing, tennis, yachting and mo-
toring enthusiast. bride. widow. French
maid, waitress and ceok-all suitably
CARRIED japanese tea room attendants.
Dutch. Eskimo and Indian children,
with different types of faces and in ma
tive costume, and infant dolls. have
countenances modelled from life by ex-
pert artists
Everything that an American doll
wears is now to be purchased ready
made. There are fashionable frocks.
gowns, bath robes, wraps, rubberized
rain coats, Leghorn. straw. chiffon and
lace hats and every ina enable access
sorry.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18
New Dutch Collars and Pins

NURITAN collars are fayorite ac-
~ cessories of the young girls shirt
waist suit. These collars are made
OF white linen finished with tailor
stitched edges and stifTiy Numbered. In
shape they greatly resemble the starched,
unlined linen Dutch collars, which are
usually hand embroidered in all white
with silk Ascot ties or with soft satin
messaline shield bows having fancy
loops and fringed nine inch ends.
Soft Dutch collars, so called, are of
batiste, fine linen or lawn, hand en-
broidered and trimmed with lace, or of
allover muslin embroidery finished with
a valenciennes frilling. They are joined
with jabots of a matching material or
with Dutch pins
Sailor collars are of starched plain
white or colored linen edged with hem
stitching. scalloping or waving and
embroidered In polka dot, vine. eyelet
and blind patterns in white. green, blue
or dark red. With these coiors are
woven long Ascots of linen with art de-
sign embroidered enos done in all white
or with colors.
To accompany the stiff. turnover coli
lars of white or solid color linen are
narrow silk cravats having butterfly
bows and tassei finished looped ends
and bows of colored satin. with a plait-
ed center and plating bordered edges.
Stin Gibson collars, which fasten at
the back of the neck, are OF starched
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18
K3OClAl AMENITIES FOR
ml Dzea THE SCHOOL CIR

meeting, but on addressing her will
thoughtlessly call her Mrs. Blank in
stead of Mrs. Brown. and then, aware
eof our error. we will say, perhaps,
in a nervous, embarrassed desire to set
ourselves right. .oh, pardon me, l
knew you were Mrs. Brown, but am
so stupid about names" Such an apol-
ogy is unnecessary, and. more than
that, it is giving undue emphasis to an
error whfch.a soon as perceived,you can
set right without calling attention to
1T. Let your mistake pass without
comment, but show that you are not
as stupid as you seem by making q
point of calling her by her right name
as soon as possible.
To remedy our mistakes is far better
than apolegizing for them in cases like
this. where the remedy can be I'M
mediate
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18
free to ward 1T off with lightning

free to ward It off with lightning
thickness.
HE first attitude assumed by the
fencer as she steps forward or TO
the center of the neid before plao-
ing herself on guard is as follows:
Stand with the body erect, heels just
touching and toes pointed out. the right
toe In straight line with that of the
opponent and the left foot at a sharp
angle to the right. While the body is
held erect 1t Is swung slightly to the
right, thus presenting a three-quarter
view to the adversary. The sword hand
IS held on a line with the head. The left
arm Is allowed to swing at the side, not
close to the body. however. and with
the palm of the hand turned outward.
The salute Is a picturesque posture
and is a preliminary to the battle.
While in the position Just described the
fencers stand at the correct distance
from each other. this being determined
by the length of arms and foils. and the
arms of both fencers fall gracefully at
their sides, the buttons on the foils just
touching the floor. They should strike
1t a little toward the left of the right
foot. At signal both fencers step for
ward. raising the right arm until It is
on a level with the top Of the head,
blades extended. The hands then drop
to line with the chin, almost touching
1t, and the blades continuing upright.
With quick movement they speed
downward and to the right. this being
one of the most attractive and graceful
of the fencing movements.
With another quick movement the
blade is brought forward and the tip OF
the foil grasped in the left hand. both
arms raised over the head, and after a
second or two the left hand falls to the
side slowly and half bent, elbow down
and the hand on line with the ear.
1t is held some distance from the head.
fingers pointing upward, while the right
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18

FENCING terms are unintslligibls to
the novice. ~Tiercs' means when
the fencers have their foils crossed
with points upward and blades to the
right OF each other. When IN the same
position with the sword points to thu
left Of each other the fsncers are en-
gagged in quartz" A lungs in "tiercs"
f. thrusting to the right and high. In
quartz" the same movement Is made
with the swords to the left
The regulation fencing costume II
one OF the most picturesque OF athletic
attire. Short skirts are essential and
sometimes they are accordion pleated.
The plain gored skirt is as practicable
as any. School girls often wear their
gymnasium suits, and when they prac-
tice in the open air they don sweaters.
The athletic field or the lawn outside
the gymnasium IS an excellent prae-
tice ground for the fencing classes. and
Instructors have found that girls like
the open air work far more than they
do foil practice indoors
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18

the foils. Fencing seems TO smooth
out all the imperfections of contour.
And that is not its greatest advanta ge.
The quick movements required In prac-
tice viii quicken the sluggish tempera-
ment. Fencing improves the vision,
because a fencer must learn to see
quickly and the body learns to move in
the most graceful attitudes. Fencing
means grace. One can not become ex-
pert with the foils without acquiring
sInuous and attractive poses and the
movements learned in this sport are
used unconsciously in every other. A
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18

should neglect taking lessons with the
foils for at least one year II she looks
forward to a successful social career,
where grace counts for almost as much
as beauty.
Fencing lessons will do more for the
Improvement Of the feminine outline
than any other exercise. A girl who is
too stout can not fence well. so if she
practices regularly the surplus fat dis
appears as If by magic. And the girl
that Is too thin for the present beauty
standard fills out wonderfully after she
has had e few months hard work with
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18


The position of "on guard" the
second IN the series, IN equally in
teresting. Lower the right hand
from first position. turning the
knuckles downward. and move the
blade so that the left hand grasps It
lightly. Then raise both hands slowly
and gracefully above the head, allow
the left hand to loosen its grasp and
fall into position at the back OF the
head, keeping the arms bent and half
outstretched. so that the open palm In
on a level with the head. Then move
the right hand to the front. just q tribe
below the breast and to the right. with
the elbow coming close to the body.
Hold the foil in horizontal position.
so that its tip Is on line with the
eyes. Now advance the right foot
about Is inches, being careful to keep
the right heel on a line with the left.
and allow the weight OF the body to
fall equally on both feet, so that one
leg feels no more strain than the
other. In this position the body Is well
balanced. yet poised so that the quick
est possible movement can be made
without any difficulty.
The lunge or extension now follows.
and this Is one of the hardest to man
age. Stretch the right arm from its
former position close to the body until
it moves straight out at the same
height as the shoulders. The body
should never be the least bit rigid in
this position. In fact pIiability Is one
of the greatest qualities OF the skillful
fencer. Neither should the body be
bent in this movement. Advance the
right foot a trihe. keeping the knee
directly in line with the instep. Do
not lean forward or backward. except
when advancing or retreating. and be
sure that the body is upright. One OF
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18
E NC | N G

HN ALUIE, young ladies'! Ano Al
the sound OF the fencing mas
ter's voice a score Of girls
swing into position. bodies that
are inert CULVER with excitement
OF a coming bout with foils, eyes
sparkle with excitement and there fol-
lows a ring OF steel against steel, tell
ing that the fencing lesson has begun.
1T IS marvellous what I have been
able to accomplish with my class" con-
hded the enthusiastic master during a
rest In the daily practice. When I
took them six months ago they were
awkward and ungainly. hardly q single
movement had grace and attractive
ness. Now look at them. Are they not
quick, sinuous. alert and well devel-
oped young ladies2 Where could you
find a more graceful carriage. a greater
amount OF suppleness and lightness?
Ali. believe me, there is nothing in all
the list of exercises so beneficial to the
feminine figure as fencing. and no girl
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18

IN moving forward or backward the
start Is always made with the right
foot and followed by the left One OF
the first rules given By the instructor
Is to take small steps. never Ions
strides. The position can be changed
or shifted by bending the right knee
forward or Strengthening It. This WIN
move the body forward or backward
the distance OF the movement depend
ing upon the degree or the bend When
retreating or stepping backward al
ways start with the reverse foot. that
is, with the left and follow with the
right.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18

the easiest errors to fall into is bend
ing as the body retreats or advances
When there is no one at hand to call
attention to such errors the fsncer -
apt to acquire bad habits, and for this
reason class work Is excellent prac-
tice-
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18

One cannot attain perfect manners
except by most painstaking care, and
so when we say or do the wrong
thing we must not brood on 1t, but for
get 1t as quickly as possible and en-
deavor not to repeat the mistake.
often little slip in manners viii pass
unnotieed if attention is NOT called to
to it-as, for instance. addressing a
person by the wrong name. Some
girls find it extremely difficult to re-
member the names of persons whom
they met formally, the name apparent
ly making little, If any, impression on
their minds. If 1t makes none they
evade the matter by avoiding using the
persons name
Sometimes we viii perfectly under
stand the name of the person we are
plain or embroidered white linen and
are worn without pin or tie. The Glib
son collars in lingerie materials are SO
soft that. like the lace and net stocks,
they require some sort of support. The
latest supporter consists of q thin cell
luloid sheet with apertures at either
end and two hasp hooks near the CEN
ter. The sheer material is merely
pressed by the finger tip into the aper-
lures of the supporter and then engaged
and locked on the other side by the
hasp.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18

- iris schools invariably include
fencing among their list of exer-
cises, and the classes are always
popular. In the expensive schools high
priced fencing masters are employed
and the girls are taught to handle the
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18
a CLASS OF

COLLEGE GIRLS
TAKING a FEN CHG
LESSON OUT DOORS
eroroS 6r
eD~Esp E s.GEloes
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18

hand rails into position for ION guard"
and the signal for the struggle TO be-
gin Is given.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18

good fencer will develop into a good
dancer. To be able to dance. however,
does not mean that one can fence right
of. but the various positions will come
more readily to the beginner who un-
derstands the art of dancing than to
the novice"
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18

81
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-07-18

The San Francisco Sunday Can
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-06-15
TWO WORKMEN INJURED
WHEN DERRICK FALLS
Accident Occurs at Commercial Club
Building-Was Rope Tam
pered With2

r. s. Livingston. 1868 West Seventh
South street, and Parker Hamilton, 81
West Fifth South street were injured
when the new derrick at the Commercial
Club building fell shortly before noon yes
teFday.
The wOrkmen. structural iron workers,
were lab0ring at the top of the eight-ton
derrick when the accident occurred, and
fell d distance OF thirty feet. Livingston
sustained badly spraIned left wrist and
several body bruises. HamiltOn's left hip
was wrenched, and he was seriously in
iured internally. The men were carried
to the contractors office. near by. DR..
j. H. Robinson. physician for the structU-
raj iron workers, was summoned and at
tended them. Livingston recovered from
the shock I'm a short time. and refused 70
be taken home. but remained on the
grounds. Hamilton was taken to his home
i'm an ambulance
The accident occurred just as the mast
of the derrick was pulled into place by "A
rope. An examination of the rope after
wards showed what might have been knife
Sits made where it broke, and the work
men on the building are inclined TO believe
that the rope had been tempered with by
nOn-uniOn men, who had been employed on
the building during the strike, which came
to "a close the latter part OF the week
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-06-15
THREATENS WIFE
AND STEPSON
z West Is Arrested at West
Third North With Loaded Re-
yoiyer in His Possession.

..yvrsre is your warrant nat 40 -
q. .ag want here? ,., .r
a. r-s- the manner in which T.
M. living at ga West THIRD Nor'h
" erected Sergeant Beckstead and
s'-..l--r-,.r Charles Pitt when they en-
bic home last evening.
r--- f.-.are were sent 10 tne W est res
lhe '....sgcar To- tine calls for aid from
~ r5-,car-1d aaush'ei on w IL a. ,t.
~ managed t0 tell her lroubles 70 thg
a-o H.aa--l5nr between s0bs and excited
desk sergeant
s1--aI-,l .,-zr nj the family. it is alleged,
.----~araF with mis- step-SOn because
i-- ,-rr man had interfered win MN
lax ls was attempting 20 peat q uosi
--f-r= 1f the strp-soh SO ehIabeu
u f-.st that Dee procured his revolver
h.- -.-- four cartridges, and threat
lsH rn .ha bow The mother II Is
rA11 5zr Old m.ify the man, and was
4-tr. thrown to the floor and heT
tr also threatened ,.-..-
i---- rr.a officers arrived al the house
~ informed them that her nus
A'5s f.F fHa gun in his nip pocket. They
pan. awards Him to take the weapon
sas.r- them approach West pulled
~. rayarv.r from his pocket and eN-
claimed. .,..
,,..r struggle Patrolmau Pitt So
-.5 The weapon and Sergeant Beck
49, rar5 West The officers had an
49, rvat with the man when they were
..girr Rim from the house.
West couHded to the policemen that be
"a rasrHr meant 90 kill his step-sOn
a. had reason ha had the revolver In
t.s ros-zssi0u He was locked up and
-i1 rr8babIv De aUaigned on the charge
n attempt 60 murder
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-06-15
A SQUARE DEAL
AND
A SQUARE MEAL

-5'es square deal for the people
.a can eat square meal without
'',er pain and distress.
"a, 20 10 F. T.. SChramm today and get a
ei- box of Mi-O-na tablets. the
s .,t prescription for indigestion and
stomach troubles.
az. taNe one. or il your suffering is in
.-s Two tablets with or after meals
.- ai The end of ten days if you cant
,- square meal without distress go
back 3NU get your money
f, That's where the square deal comes
b., ing, Altoona Is really a stomach up
-.-.5I ol great merit. every day the
80 s receive more than a dozen let
~. nom grateful people which state
e''er losing hope Mi-o-na cured.
~, quick and positive action OF Nj
a On The stomach in case Of gas.
s.-.- crash sour stomach and heart
ne. Is worth lot Of money 20 any
r. d Howe. Gardner. Mass. saws.
r-- suffered from severe pains in my
-..l tried different remedies
~ ~. relief after using two boxes
----s -'-na I found myself completely
-77 is sold by leading druggists.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1909-06-15

of his brother Howard's wife He could
not recall the date within one year of
his brothers marriage. His fathers es-
tate, he said. had never been formally
divided among the children. Howard
Gould was entitled to One-sfxth of the
estate under the viii. The estate Of
the father was valued approximately
at $50 000. 600. In January, 1906. Mr..
Gould testified, Towards income was
about $4,000, and had not varied much
in years prior or subsequent to that
date.
Howard Gould followed his brother on
the witness stand. He said he con-
sidered his property outside of the Jay
Gould estate worth $1,000 600 or $4,000. =
goo. This was independent of the in
come left by his father.