Evening star., 1909-06-13
Cooks Of Kings at the Salon Of Partisan Chefs


Carlos himself He delights in plovers'
eggs. He adores little birds: but watt
The cooks of three kings were discuss
ing their kitchens Quenon of Belgium
boasted that everything in each of his
is new within the past five years-bimetal
utensils welded dsilver-and-copper electric
heat for sauces. planks for cooking shad
at a vertical wood fire ian American in
vention. etc. NJ. Nasseur told how at
Madrid the wood carvings and sculptures
date from the obscure but money burn
ing sovereiyns who preceded the late Isa-
bella. NJ. Peltier told how the kitchens
of Windsor were constructed under mag
nifcent George III. eight vast vaulted
halls whose massive carved oak tables
and screens are worthy OF museums. One
set of massive silver utensils is worth
S:,oOOO
But what of it, nourned NJ. Peltier
King Edward has just put automatic
weighing machines in all his dressing
rooms and private dining rooms. Before
and after every meal he weighs himself" :"
The art of these men is sublime Each
can give YOU a choice of 5000 dishes
There are 125 ways of preparing eggs
80 ION the plate mot fried. but done in
the bain-marie'. A. poached, 20 with
cheese, Ii zen cocotte" (t'ny earthen
dish). 81 omelettes.. not to mention any
use of hard-boiled eggs.
Veal Is cooked in 90 ways. There are
so principal soups
And the classic sauces Sauce Mari
L.
landaise. Normande. Dieppoise. Mousse
line, oyster sauce. tomato sauce. shrimp
sauce, garlic sauce, mustard sauce, Ma
deira sauce. mint sauce. Or do you pre-
fer sauce Robert. ST Menehoud. PERI
geux, Chateaubriand. Soubise. Bechamel.
Bercy. Mornay? Bernaise is the king Of
hot mayonaises for grimmed steaks: but
Venetian sauce is pale green speckled, !,
sauce is bright purple. Green sauce.
white sauce. brown sauce. yellow sauce,
devil sauce. the half are not Yet named.
Alfonso of Spain knows every one OF
them. Leopold of Belgium. who is sub
sisting now on hashed raw meat and hot
milk. still serves them for his guests. The
King of Italy does not know one from an
other, yet he has an expensive cook for
the dead-broke Roman princes. The czar
is a voluptuary. Young Alfonso is the
husky boy, after all. I saw him stop at
Cauteret's. in the Pyrenees. auto
trip. Smeared with dust in old clothes.
he gobbed with healthy appetite the
lunch of the Victoria Hotel, which | could
hardly bear. But If you think Alfonso
does not dearly love a heavily truff1ed
game pie or the best pieces Of lobster
Newburg in a luscious hot crust, then
you doubt his cooks word.
The nursing school of modern gastron-
omy is the salon of Partisan chefs. Here
met 1dul Ce AInlcl Ol the tkuiIiIldl hllCH-
ems, Bosomporo of the Vatican. Quenon of
Belgium, Boreli. with Prince Doria and
the others l have named.
A touching detail is their money encour-
agements to humble cooks. Vasseur OF
Spain gave $40 Ito premit colleague out
of work to produce himself Menager
and Peltier Of England gave each S25
for apprentices producing the most sue
culent chaudfrods."
Prizes from these great ones went to
unknown strugglers for the most novel
fish entree." 'the best two hot hors-
doeuvres." ''the best entree revived from
the eighteenth century cuisine in all,
fifty prizes.
The case of young ALBERT is moving.
AS apprentice. he won first prize from
the chefs of Rome. In Paris, though a
proper member of the local association,
he was forbidden to exhibit, not by his