davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27
Slippers and Hose for Summer

MART slippers and hosiery are Of
quite as much Importance In the fin
- ished appearance OF a costume as
the hat, gloves, belt or any of the so
called accessories. In summer time
when short waists are worn by all 1t is
especially necessary to have this part
of the outfit as nearly perfect as the
allowance win permit Of The simpler
the dress the more perfect must 1t be-
this IL automatic In its truth, and
therefore with the style of shirtwaist
and skirt costume so generally worn in
summer time the shoes and stockings
must be of the smartest.
White is now worn almost altogether
by young girls. and older women, of
course, as well, and with the all white
costume white shoes and stockings have
been proven indispensable. no matter
how abbreviated in length the waist
may still be. Plain white Isle stock
ings, therefore, of medium weight and
low shoes (not pumps) are smartest for
general wear. Pumps are in keeping
with afternoon dress. but the athletic
girl who does not scorn to walk or ride
a bicycle will Infinitely prefer a COM
Portable hygienic low cut tie to pump.
which. slipping up and down as she
walks. gives her an ungraceful stride.
from which perhaps she will never re-
cover. besides INJECTING cruel holes IN
her fine stockings.
Buckskin is most generally pre-
ferred In white shoes, but canvas is
cooler and. incidentally. is less costly.
The newest white boots, slippers.
pumps and tennis shoes are of craven
cite, which, being waterproof. is excel
lent for general wear, and. as the ma
terial can be cleaned. is most econom-
ical.
On pumps kid and metal buckles are
being worn again in place of the fat
ribbon bows. For ties grosgrain rib
bon an inch and half in width should
be used Even for tennis shoes ribbon
Is now preferred to the regular cotton
strings. although the last are. of
course. permissible.
In the city, for travelling and for
wear with all gowns of dark shade, as
the dark blue and rose colored linens,
brown shoes and stockings are used
with every shade OF gowns save those
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

30 be smartly and appropriately
EoHned at all times and in all
places is and should he the
ambition OF every living
woman. be she so or Ie. Fortunately
the appropriate can be attained to al
ways. no matter what the allowance,
while frequently those costumes which
appear smartest do not imply neces-
ssrily the greatest cost. And this is
Just the lesson which it behooves every
girl to take unto herself-that little
study and small measure of thought
fuI planning viii often evolve an outfit
which answers every requirement for
the style OF country place in which she
happens to spend her summer and have
left over besides a nice little sum for
various accessories which she might
otherwise have had to go without.
Naturally It is difficult for a girl
whose allowance is half that, perhaps,
OF her dearest friend to realize that she
can manage 10 be just as well gowned
st all times as that more favored
friend. but indeed this is well within
the realms Of possibility. She must
make UP her mind, 10 commence with,
10 purchase only gowns OF more or less
simple character. and during the sum
mer time she must eschew the more
delicate shades in such textures as
linen and the fascinating soft NOUS
selines. for. alluringly pretty as they
are when just made up. the perishable
color viii soon lose its soft tint and the
gown can no longer be worn. She had
best keep firmly 10 white during the
summer months, and, no matter how
formal the gathering, girl gowned in
a well hitting white frock, be it lawn
or linen. is sure TO look charming
Bright colored ribbons are fortunately
inexpensive and go far TO add to the
charm OF an otherwise all white cos
tune.
1t is constantly heard said that the
only difficulty with a linen gown is
that il cannot be worn out. and for the
economical girl this is almost an OBJ
lection 10 the texture. for her frugal
mind cannot bear to purchase a new
gown while she has another that, il
old fashioned in its lines. is yet per-
fectly good. It is a mistake, however,
20 carry economy too far, and il the
last years frock cannot be altered so
as TO be up to date 1t must be dis
carded and new one substituted
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

by wire hairpin. Elastic panoS SAouAu
never be used for this purpose, as
they break the hair distressingly when
being removed. Once all the hair is
secure the end is taken, rolled around
the two forefngers, forming the large
puff which is fastened at each end
underneath by long wire hair pins, the
outside of the puff pulled only into.
shape at each end with two pins of
medium length. A shell barrette. not
too large, is then slipped below the
puff to catch in any short hairs that
would otherwise fall loose and give an
unkempt appearance. At the top of the
put in two fancy shell hair pins. These
will help to hold the hair in place,
and with the shell combs and barrette
be an attractive finish against the hair.
This long single puff may be evolved
from any kind of hair of medium thick
ness, be 1t long or short, straight or of
natural curl. Straight hair is, OF
course, more difficult to form in a puff.
but with little practice even the long.
thin, stringy variety of hair can be
coiled into a puff, which will give the
effect of a great quantity of woman's
browning glory.
If the hair is exceptionally long and
thick or else sufficiently soft and wav-
fng to be easily manageable, three
puffs. the center one noticeably the
largest, will give a becoming line to
the head. When the hair is naturally
stiff and stands out we'll by itself there
is always difficulty in keeping the POM
padour within bounds and the knot or
puff from standing out too far at the
back of the head, but for a schoolgirl
especially all exaggeration must be
avoided, while, anyway exaggerated
headdresses are fast falling from
favor.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

Brown hair so soon fades and turns
gray that its rich. deep shades are only
to be preserved by constant vigilance.
One method of keeping 1t beautiful is
to occasionally rub upon the scalp and
locks very little sour milk, allowing
it to remain for a few moments and
then washing 1t out with warm water.
Blond hair should be washed with
CASTLE soap and water. then thoroughly
dried in the sunshine whenever possible,
as that helps to preserve the golden
shades. Any preparation containing am
monia is apt to fade light hair and to
give II an ashen tinge, while peroxide
of hydrogen rinsings will bleach 1t so
gradually that before a girl realizes
what is happening she Will find her
self possessor of far more silver than
golden locks
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

Dew, sun and wind baths will do
more for the hair than all the lotions
ever concocted," declared the April
grandmother, as she scanned the throng
of shoppers eagerly listening to the
lecture of a luxuriantly golden locked
woman demonstration. During the
summer months 1t is especially DIM
but II a young girl can muster sum-
cient energy to take walk at dawn.
let the dew fall upon her hair and dry
gradually as the sun climbs upward,
her hair. as well as her appetite and
general health. will be greatly bene-
flied. A summer shower. which In
scarcely heavier than dew. IL q bless
ing which no girl should fail to take
advantage of. provided, OF course, that
she is not subject to cold. With feet
dampness. but with head uncovered.
she may quite safely TAX g a short
walk, directly after which the hair
should be thoroughly shaken and then
Let the blessed sunshine fall freely
upon your hair IL you wish it to become
crisp, fluffy and curling instead of con-
tinuing oily. heavy and straight" (Ths
April grandmother had succeeded In
finding a straw hat of modest proper
lions. and frankly disapproved of her
debutante granddaughter mammoth
headgear.) "Sunbeams can do wonders
for the hair that huge hats have helped
to destroy.
Air the hair daily by shaking 1t out
and allowing it TO fly loosely for as
long time as possible. The girl who
spends the summer months in the coun-
try can always find some secluded
bower wherein her rat roll and pun
mistreated locks may obtain the pen
eft OF a sun, air and wind bath, and
for at least half of each day she should
arrange her hair in a loose braid, part
ing the locks above the brow in Ma
donna manner, as that makes a youth
sweet.
Moisture and sunshine are alike ex-
ceIlent remedies for dandruff or scurf,
often the accompaniment of an ex-
ceedingly thick suit of hair and due
to excessive action of the oil glands,
which make the skin Of the scalp
either too moist or too dry. 1t is USE
less to seek to cure this condition by
washing the head. While such treat
ment may produce a brief respite, the
oily glands are stimulated to increased
activity, and the last state is worse
than the first.
Too much reliance should not be
placed on hair tonics and scalp mas
sage. If girl is anemic, run down
from over study or has sluggish
liver, her hair will soon begin TO fall
out or to look dry and faded, and the
first step toward repairing these evils
is to build up her health.
Some young girls, in their anxiety
to possess abundant tresses, literally
wash the hair off their heads by a
weekly or fortnightIy soap and water
shampoo. This treatment makes the
locks temporarily fluffy, but it also
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

dries the scalp, and. by robbing the
roots of coloring matter, turns the hair
gray. While one white lock above the
temples may lend a debutante dis
ltinctfon, It's presence indicates unin-
telligent care of the hair, or suggests
that she has been experimenting with
1t In the hope Of changing its color.
And that Is something from which the
innately refined woman shrfnks and at
which nearly all men sheer. secretly
or openly.
Black hair is so rare beauty that
the girl who possesses 1t should be
careful to keep It satin smooth and
free from dust by frequent stockings
with velvet bristled brush OCCASION
ally moistened ever so slightly with
olive oil.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27
& EYIMPLL BUT Effective FROCKS OF
E S]6 LINEN and PONGEE n The NLW COLONY

bodices there Is little blouse IN frons
and In back. and on the sides the waist
must be held down smooth and nat
under the belt
One piece linen gowns are seen in
great variety this year. and for the
morning there is no style OF dress more
attractive. In dark green. raspberry
or natural coIored linen. one model
which. finished in back with only a
few wide tucks. is fastened in front.
little to one side. all the way down
from collar to hem with large but
tons covered with the material itself.
is exceedingly pretty. At the throat n
a little guimpe OF finest batiste. tucked
and trimmed with narrowest Irish or
cluny insertion. and this guimps Is
only buttonsd into the gown so that
II can be freshened whenever neces-
sary. The waist itself Is finished at
the neck with three 70 five inch turned
down collar OF embroidered white linen
or batists. OF lace or OF the material
itself. bordered with a scalIoped edg-
ing A soft tie OF black or bright
toned silk gives a becoming color con-
trast. Waist and skirt are all IN one.
but Joined with a snugly htting belt
OF linen or perhaps OF soft ak. and
the bodice and skirt must NJ to per-
lection In this severely plain but ak
ceedingly smart little gown.
Tafreta batists Is to Do worn again
this season and Is especially sRsStivs
when trimmed with heavy hand am
broidsry. but this material Is reserved
more or less for afternoon While at
traetive in white. Il Is especially good
in the bright shades OF pink. blue AID
green. which are always charming thls
time OF year.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

n RGHAM Is q delightful weighs
| \ texture for hot weather, and check
ginghams made up simply. with
just q bit Of baby Irish lace at threat
and wrist. ars IN vogue year Efesr
year. From small pin point check 70
those OF regular checker board siso
the checks are seen. but there II . size
somewhat less than q half inch square
that Is especially smart and youthful
Great ingenuity may be displayed IN
the managing OF all check materials
the texture being folded over upon IT.
self, tucked and plated IN such wise
as TO give the effect OF a solid color.
and again an apparently all white band
being placed where such an eject may
be called for. Bands OF plain ooiorsd
lawn and oftentimss Of linen are also
employed IN the trimming OF the check
ginghsm gowns this year.
On both linen and Bingham gowns
the sleeves are generally seen to be
quite plain. long. OF course. and finished
at the wrist with a narrow edging OF
white. The Jokes OF the simplest
gowns are all. however. exceptionally
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

IN only a few OF the linen. pongse or
Bingham dresses is there any yoke
at the back this season, the material
itself coming to the edge OF the collar
and finished with a narrow revers
effect in silk or embroidery. In front
the yoke is narrow and generally
square. although In a small number OF
the newer gowns a round yoke is 10
be SEEN When a gown Is finished with
out a high collar about the throat
there is no yoke. OF course. the gown
being finished or at the throat with
soft silk tie or jabot or lace.
Collariess gowns will never remain IN
favor for city wear, but in the coun-
try the fashion IS a DELIGHTFULLY."- COM
Portable one. and is. moreover. beeom-
ing to the majority OF young girls.
All exaggeration is to be avoided, OF
course, and especially IN the linen and
all somewhat heavy materials caFw
must be taken TO have the soft white
turned down collar fasten well up to
the throat, else the linen will be both
ugly and in bad taste for the daytime.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

pretty and OF fine workmanship. Net
II not used so much now as sheer
batiste, finest tucked organdie and thin
lawn combined with some ane entire
deux OF Cluny or Irish lace. In one sx-
tremely simple linen gown was high
collar and narrow square yoke OF or
candle. relieved only with tiny edg-
ing OF crochet lace at the top OF the
collar. the same edging being noticed
as a finish at the cum OF the long. plain
sleeve.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

HERE is decided trimness in the
fit of all gowns for young girls this
season. and even IN the separate
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

will often cling of itself in graceful.
becoming lines. with linen this can
of immense Importance with regard to
a skirt which clears the ground Is that
1t hang evenly all around-better wear
a second year hat than a skirt longer
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

in back that In front or sidss-the frst
will always be forgiven. the other Is
inexcusable.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

r. ASHIONS are in decidedly trans
tory state at the moment and 1T
would be well for the girl OF
meager allowance to avoid all extremes
in her dress save that Of great sim
plicity. Her sleeves should not be too
small nor her skirt too tight, nor
should her waist line be high to the
point of exaggeration. 1t is hard to
make definite predictions for the future
lust vet. but it is safe to say that three
months hence full skirts-that is. of
course. comparatively speaking-will
be in vogue once more, sleeves Will
no longer show the narrow shoulder
line and the belt line will be once more
very nearly if not quite in its normal
position
In purchasing morning dress 1t
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

4 THOUGH always popular sum
a mer material, linen seems to he
more than ever in favor this year,
aud is especially smart for all kinds
and sorts OF morning gowns, both the
severely simple shirtwaist and
skirt costumes for golf and
tennis as well as those intended
for more elaborate wear. In the
majority OF country places sep
arate white bodice and skirt costumes
are considered suitable for any sort
Of use during the forenoon, but in the
more fashionable resorts a "shirtwaist
dress" is restricted to the golf links.
tennis court or sailboat, q simple dress
throughout either of lawn or linen be-
ing donned at other times Indeed.
the simpler the dress the better, many
Of the very smartest models being alb
soIutely plain, OF white or colored
linen laid in a few plaits or tucks. and
only stock and jabot of lawn or lace
and colored belt to relieve the sim
plicity.
The high wasted skirt is to be worn
throughout the summer by all to whom
1t is becoming. The average girl
looks exceptionally well in. this style
of dress, for 1T is design calling for
excessive slenderness and straightness
OF line American tailors and dress
makers have finally learned to hang
this style OF skirt correctly, so that
the material hangs loose. so to speak.
from the top of the broad band OF
betting down to the hips. and is cut
In no way to suggest the so called
corselet skirt of thre. years back. This
so called paquin skirt will therefore
continue to be worn in all such tex
lures as linen, pongee, silk and even
in the thinner fabrics as well.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-27

From the New Orleans Pcayune-
The first person whom a stranger meets
in landing from ship, boat or railway
car in great city is cabman. and the
treatment he receives from that person
generally fixes his notion of the city and
its people, and commonly calls for inn
precautions and denuncations. OF course,
it is not the case with guests who are
expected and are specially met by friends,
but it is the fate of every stranger who
wants to get to a hotel or other destina-
ticn and does not know the way and
would hire a cab.
1t is true there are laws regulating the
charges for hauling passengers. but the
strangers are ignorant of these laws and
as they are not posted in plain view of
the passenger as is required, he becomes
the victim of any rascal into whose hands
he may fall. There ought to be frequent
inspection of cabs to see if the law is
complied with and all failures should
be severely punished. 1t is reported that
many shameful extortions were practiced
on strangers to the recent carnival; they
are whenever there is a great influx of
visitors A thing like this gives city d
bad name, as even the most liberal peo-
pie are enraged at being swindled, and
when they are swindled the first moment
they set foot in a strange city, they visit
on it their Indignation and condemnation.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-27
The Gas Stock Repeal.

The action of the conferees on the Dis
trict appropriation bill in writing into the
measure a paragraph relating to the regu-
lation of the local gas companies is en-
tirey satisfactory as far as 1t goes. The
repeal of the existing stock-increase stat
ute is especially gratifying. 1t relieves
the situation to a considerable extent and
makes it not so serious a matter if the
gas legislation pending in the Senate goes
over to the next Congress. The effect
Of this repeal should be to stiffen the eff
forts to get better and cheaper gas now
and TO cut out of the action of Congress
anything tending to unwhoesome over
capitalization.
The limitation to 81 cents of the price
to be paid for public lighting. while it
does not affect the individual consumer,
nevertheless does establish a standard
of fair compensation and leads the way
20 general rate reduction later. in lease
nothing is done in that direction before
adjournment If this conference para
graph goes into the law, as seems likely
now, the effect will be to proclaim the be-
lief of Congress that 81 cents "a thousand
cubic feet is reasonable price. 1t may
be regarded as a form of guarantee that
general rate reduction is promised when
Congress next addresses itself to this
question.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-27
Presiding Over the Senate.

In Mr. Sherman the Senate will have Il
presiding officer thoroughly familiar with
parliamentary procedure. He has. often
been called to the chair i'm the House,
and has always ruled to the satisfaction
of that body. He is prompt and fair and
an expediter of business. He will be en-
tirely at home I'm his new office.
Going back thirty years we come to the
case of Gen. Arthur. He had had no ex-
perience in legislative life. and there was
some speculation as to how he would like
the duties of the vice presidency. But he
did not remain in the office long enough
To test the problem. The extra session of
the Senate in the spring of 1881 was very
short. and before the regular session be-
gan death had transferred Gen. Arthur
to the White House.
Mr. Hendricks, who followed. had many
years before been senator. but was not
a parliamentarian. and had he lived
might have found his new duties difficult
Mr.. Morton. Who followed him. was
likewise inexperienced as a presiding off,
GER as also was Mr.. Stevenson. who came
in with Mr.. Cleveland In 1898. Mr. Hobart
followed. and while a ready man of BUSH
ness and personally popular. was largely
guided in the chair by promptings from
the desk.
Mr.. Roosevelt took hold valiantly. but
was soon in distress. The rapid firing
from the floor was too much for him, and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-27
Women's Hats on Inauguration Day.

Next Thursday a great many men and
women will take seats on grandstands
for the purpose CT viewing the inaugural
proceedings at the Capitol or the parade
in honor of the new President. Unless
the women In consideration of the rights
OF others adopt "A special style of head
gear for the occasion, the pleasure of
large percentage of those i'm the stands
will be marred If not utterly spoiled by
the obstruction of view caused by Ameri-
can millinery creations that are now in
vogue. This is a matter that cannot we'll
be regulated as it is III the theaters and
some other places of public assemblage
These stands being out of doors. in very
few cases inclosed and protected from
the weather. it is out of the question to
remove their hats. unless they provide
themselves with temporary hat coverings.
The practical solution of the problem lies
in the direction of the wearing of what
are known as toques, or other forms of
small headgesr
Never before at inauguration time
have the feminine hat fashions been such
as to give rise to 30 serious question.
Just now the millinery fashions have
reached "A climax unprecedented i'm point
Of size and height. One of these extreme
hats suffices to block the view of two
or three people sitting behind.
Inasmuch as this is entirely spec
tacle for the eye, it is vitality important
that the view be rendered nearly UNI
INSTRUCTED as possible. There will be no
redress for the ticket holder who on TAX
ing his place finds his vision absolutely