The San Francisco call., 1909-09-12


~ / ored thread unbleached muslin-which
- 1 were shown time ago-have been
II - 4 successfully done. the children can
TS111N.1J advanced to the working white cloth
IWB&JI But the practice pieces must still be the
SSSSS| unbleached white muslin. Take piece
six inches square and have the child
urs IN two inches from end Make slight
In the cloth 70 indicate the place At the other Of
ths cloth opposite corner as well have two
inches measured or and the crease
cloth at both ends on the creases and make
tpld through the cloth from point to the other
Chfldren's attention should called to the fact
fhat the creased line is bias The square is
cot In half on this bias line and the narrow
ends put together, also bias edges and the
piece is basted from top bottom in quar-
tar inch II will help keep a straight seam line
II the seam is creased to be fe1led
one and is made by using three running stitches
lowed by half back stitch this is done to strengthen
the The stitches should be as nearly like
small machine stitch possible
After the has been the entire length In
this manner, three a half back stitch then
ths edge which is held towards the sewing
1s cut to within eighth inch of the sewing
Then the other edge Of the is towards YOU
the raw edge turned under with the you GO
and hemred down with possible stitches Be-
fore the hemmng done the seam should be we'll
creased from the right side there will be no
tullness OF the material after the hemming done
This is lingerie of all kinds and
makes the incest kind Of finish for seam.
will lie fat In ironing Al well wearing
The next thing viii be on another piece
Of the muslin. six inches long. time only
inches wide strip to the straight edge
OF the piece which has Just finished this time
having the seam come on the right side to be
French seam and is made by putting a fine running
stitch as near the edge It still hold
OF course If there frayed edges left from thu
tearing these should all neatly trimmed off before
even the bastins Is done
After the has been run, crease it nat and
turn to the side then material 50 that
the is folded inside, and the second sewing is
Is On
seams where there is strain running stitch will
DO; but usually there should be two runs and a
half back stitch The finished seam should NOT he
eighth Of an inch wide.
This seam is used all blouses that are not
boned, shirt waists unlined skirts on lingerie
It is also largely childrens and babies
eren's and babies garments.
When this practice piece has been well done the
children should be given pieces long cloth A
nne piece of the soft finish be used number
nine ten needle, according the nneness Of the
cloth, and ninety thread are used. They should be
taught to a crooked needle and alvavs N
have perfectly clean hands their work
The edges Of this piece overcast and by
this time the stitches be fairly even and II
they are not separate practice should be given to
them. The long cloth sampler is the one that Is
pressed out and mounted IN the book
The thing will be the overland
and for this pieces of mus
lin each two and one-half by six inches torn
Of q sevage edge to each one The
two sewage edges are basted together and then
This is small stitch taken over two folded
selvage edges and easily be from the da-
gram. Oftentimes in printed woven goods where
there is figure the pattern will 60 the selva9e
edge. and TO match the cloth the selyage edges
folded together; then sometimes happens that in
patching matching the edges have to be folded
back and the folded edges the ones overhanded
Seams sometimes overhanded together and when
gaugng is used 1t is overhanded Seams to
overhanded should always be basted first
the stitches should be small Even when tho sewer
-@of7cod eha mill
basting first If the basting is omitted one end il
out shorter than other and the short
side of the will be puckered
Work this little sampler is decided advance
and things taught first the overland
ing. then hemming. and finally the sewing Of lace
edge cloth
The sides hemfned lower
end also and when three four sides q thing
10 be hemmed the sides should be hemmed nrst
and then the hemmng is done
The reason should be apparent for the makes
much better appearance than where n the
opposite manner. hem Is laid by folding edge
over twice and the first turning should always bg
/. narrow one while the second turning
width desired for the hem
In bssting straight hem where there are seams