The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

be stitched and pressed The collar Is
made. stitched and tailors padding stitches are
put in to make both collar and revers keep their
shape
The lining is made not forgetting, when cutting
out the backs to allow pIait on the middle back
seam This plat is basted in position after the seam
stitched. and the other seams. with the ex-
ceptfon shoulder and underarm seams are
stitched. lining IS put in, lacking corresponding
lightly to the coat seams. with the exception
underarm shoulder seams; these are tackea
in place side, and the other side Is hennne"
over it.
The sleeves also have the muslin lining. and after
they have been basted together and htted-not Ior-
getting length-the outside is stitched ana
pressed; then piece canvas the bias Is put IN
This is stretched slightly on the edge wnien
goes towards the upper end of sleeve and the
lower edge comes exactly the basting which MARKS
the lower edge OF the sleeve. The next thing IS 10
put couple OF OF stitching across the sleeve
to simulate cu and this is Of course done tnrOusn
the Care must be taken TO see that me lheS
Will meet when is sewed together The IN
side sleeve is stitched and pressed nrst
notching it so that stay open without drawing
Both seams OF the lining stitched and pressed
open and holding lining wrong side out. as well
as the coat sleeve catch one side of outside
of the lining to the corresponding Of the coat
sleeve. the lining right side out over the
coat sleeve put basting around the sleeve 20
hold lining place about four inches above me
lower end. and another around the top the same q
away from the upper edge The sleeve - turned
right side and basted and stitched Into the coat
The should be caught securely 20 the coat AZ
around-rst loosenng the coat lining and then bring
ing the coat lining the and finally hem
ming the sleeve lining position Holding the sleeve
right side the lining at the hand end Is hemmed
down. threequarters OF an inch above the edge
OF the sleeve
One Of the odd characteristics fashions OF the
summer is the use overdresses. tunics
or togaike swathngs with underdressnEs OF spotted
checked or striped foulard. The tulle Is Invariably
trimmed with soutache. with lace. or with EARNINGS
and knotted fringes. and gray foulard.
in cherry over white beige checked foulard with
cherry dots. elephant gray blue. interesting
effects that quite transform the familiar
foulard frock.
A white foulard dotted with black has charming
apron shirred under and reaching around to
each of the back. II is OF ankle length and
made sheer white dotted null bordered with jet
passementerie and with Jet fringe the hem
Long black velvet streamers hang from the belt be-
hind. the bodice Is plain fat OF dotted null
with Jet tiny bias fold and cravat OF the
dotted foulard Its null sleeve with its Jet fringe
ends above the elbow show long scant sleeve OF
the foulard having quaint little black velvet ribbon
tied about the wrist
white dimity IL perfectly plain and made with
hens nd(tucSs and bit OF embroidery lace.
almost straightness OF its long tUnc
ana has hip grde with long ends in 'front.' which Is
rich gold galIoon tasseed with gold. similar Gid
band about round neck and IN the hair This II
worn gold Eauzs foundation revealed trans
parently.