The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-04-04

OF satiuS and satiu-tinished wOoIers.
Cotton crcpeS. too. Will follow the lead
OF the handsome silk crepeS, being made
UP INTO handsome gowns for the spring
l hcSe wcdyeS, from the richest silk to the
most inexpensive cotton, are ideal
Poplins and their near relative.
pique, are used for both Cllildrens and
ladies' costumes. and IN cotton fabrics
OF this substantial weave the thrcc-pieoe
costume will develop capitally, the coat
being cut long and trimmed with SELF
strappinGS and pearl buttons. Some
bordered piqueS are shown. but they will
probably be confined principally to chill
drens wear Printed piqueS are CornpaT-
atively new, especially the designs that
alternate 4 solid color with a floral
stripe, both on a white ground. There
are the cotton tissues. some of them
woven combination OF the finest cotton
and silk and with stripes and dots of the
silk thrown UP on the dull ground.
Soutache Is being pushed somewhat
into the background now by the rat-taIl
braid which Paris and New York dress
makers arc putting on smart spring
gowns This new rat-tail braid Is much
more supple and pliable than sOutaChe
and more intricate embroidery effects
NAV be achieved with IL. Its pure white
with 4 costume OF white self-Striped mo-
hair. The plain, straight lines of this
gown are extremely smart and the heavy
cord ornament at the front Is a new
feature.
The jaunty linen and mohair two
piece suits now being built by custom
taIlorS for summer wear show very
straight lines which define the figure
scarcely at all All the new linen coats
arc quite long, coming to the knee or
below. and the skirt beneath Is very
simply cut, in gored model Soutache
enbroideries make smart trimming for
the linen or mohair coat and skirt suit,
and in the case of washable suit the
soutache should be we'll shrunken before
being sewed to the fabric.
The Medieval Mode
The ecclesiastical styles borrowed from
the Middle Ages show stoles, SUPPLIES
and other vestment effects brilliantly
wrought with iridescent beads, sequins
and the like. The embroidered net
stoles, or "tabliers." on the pink satin
ball gown shown in the illustration are
laced together with fine gold cords and
the embrOiderieS are done with ITldesCent
pink beads in round and obSng shapes,
the flowers being made of silver and gold
IlDDOllS pduUCu lIilO 1EllCL CllNNlr NNNl
the shoulders, back and bust are garlands
of pale pink and gray-blue silk roses
The peacock gown shown here derives
its name from the pale peacock blue col
or of this gown, and the embroidered
motif like Il spread peacock tail at the
end of the train. The material IS a ben
galine silk in the light blue-green pea
cock tone and there are applIques and
embroidered patterns in bronze browns
and darker peacock blue and green
shades. The "alms bag hung at the
side by long chains OF silk cord, Is de
cidedly new style feature, just coming
out in Paris.
The most extreme features Of the new
medieval mode, which IS prophesicd
as a follower of the Directoire fashions,
are embodied IN the costume shown here
with. Here is the long, fitted basque
with paneI-pleated skirt below It; the
square neck and close shoulder line; and
notably the elaborate embroidery done
with silk and soutache braid on net
This gown, a walking costume OF re
seda green mohair, has a train attach
ment which, when fastened to the drop
skirt bv means of snap catches, changes
the little walking dress into trailing
afternoon fTOck