New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1909-10-10
LONG WASTED SUITS
THIS rs THE SE1SON OF
TIE BOUNDED FIGURE.
Drapery Is the Dominating Note
for the Skirts of Costumes
of al Kinds.

The new costumes are most decidedly Of the
new season. A change in the shape of gowns
was foretold last spring due this fall. and
come il has with overwhelming success. Every
where one sees the new costumes and little
dresses that are most pleasing. because they in
stance the return 10 normal figure lines
This is 10 be the season of the beautifully
rounded figure. 1.-the and graceful must one be
20 carry the extreme OF the new costumes, hut
fhere are plenty Of notifications Of the extreme
modes that can be adopted TO individual require
ments.
The leading characteristics Of the new cut are
the long WASTED and smooth fitting effects
Shoulders are fat, and have a tendency TO droop
a bit, just the merest trihe in the world. This
IS obtained more by the arrangement Of the
trimming than by the cut itself
Costumes are moulded about the waist line and
the hips Even the skirts Of tailored suits take
on this characteristic. Skirts 10 be used are
wider at the bottom, but always light about the
hips.
Drapery is the dominating note for the skirts
Of costumes whether they be the most elabo
rate evening confections the simple, short
skirted walking frock Most of the afternoon
and evening costumes are made with upper
and an under skirt And il is the upper skirt,
funic OF overdress. call il what you viii, that
carries out the drapery effects. To arrange this
drapery artistically requires skill and practice
that VIII probably keep the draped costume in
the realm Of exclusive fashions for one or more
seasons. For there is really only kind Of
drapery that can be successfully handled by any
but the most experienced dressmakers, and that
IS the chiffon scarfs that are being used in Ro-
man toga and Greek effects.
Princess costumes and two-piece styles are
equally fashionable. To he sure. the two-piece
style after it is finished often produces the ef-
feet Of a princess gown. for the waist and skirt
. are frequently sewed together or else the skirt
comes up over the edge Of the waist for several
inches. and the joining is concealed by drapery
or trimming bands, but always so ar
ranged as To reveal the contour Of the figure.
The waists Of costumes are boned, but not
boned SO that the wearer feels as though she
were in a wise, for that would spoil the lovely
rounded effect which is much 10 be desired
to-day Seven to nine bones are used in a bod
Ice and they are never more than seven inches
long. so that they serve 10 keep the garment
smoothly adjusted about the waist line The
smooth lines about the hips are preserved only
by means Of the exquisiteness OF its cut and fit
Draperies are weighted down at the lower
cages 50 that they viii preserve the soft clinging
lines. There are two methods Of weighing en-
ployed, one the lead weights that are set in I'M
Ger ornaments or other trimming. The other is
the trimming itself. For net lace and chiffon
draperies bands a heavier fabric or handsome
GALLONS are used. There is a great use of vel
vet MORE and satin bands for this purpose in
the simpler models In the elaborate gowns
shining bead trimmings metal laces and fur
bands are used alone or in combination
p'ach Jetleo Folle tune made over duh pale
satin skirt is an excellent example Of this LIND
% "Illailehtatlon AT the edge Of the tunic.
which comes only a few inches below the knees
hle'e Il d bahd Of heavy jet that shows a dis
eliminating touch OF gold; above this is a two