davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

tie guimpe of finest batiste, tucked and
trimmed with narrowest Irish or Cluny
insertion, and this guimpe is only buttoned
into the gown so that it can be freshened
whenever necessary. The waist itself is
finished at the neck with three to five
inch turned down collar of embroidered
white linen or batiste, of lace or of the
material itself, bordered with scalloped
edging. A soft tie of black or bright toned
silk gives becoming color contrast. Waist
and skirt are all in one, but Joined with a
snugly fitting belt of linen or perhaps of
soft silk, and the bodice and skirt must
fit to perfection in this severely plain but
exceedingly smart little gown.
Taffeta batiste is to be worn again this
season and is especially effective when
trimmed with heavy hand embroidery, but
this material is reserved more or less for
afternoon. While attractive in white it is
especially good in the bright shades of
pink, blue and green, which are always
charming this time of year.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06
Candle Shades and Sticks.

4 MONG the most artistic of the new
a candle shades are some of green paper
cut out in rose designs and lined with
red, rose, ciel, maize and white tissue.
Others are water color hand painted in
various delicately tinted floral patterns
or decorated with narcissus or tulip bios
SONS arranged perpendicularly around the
lower border of the shades.
Unique candlesticks are of willow with
rice paper Innings and of sweet grass, silk
faced. Most novel of all are the japanese
hand made shades of deep brown wicker
latticed over rice paper lining.
The sticks which any of these shades
may be fitted over are of fumed oak in
mission style, equipped with a block base
and a crude handle; a tall, slender dark
oak stick with a fiat, circular base; long
stems fitted into bulbs of seed pod shape.
semi-coiled cobra designs in bronze and
brass castings showing Russian patterns.
Equally adapted for holding artistic
shades and decidedly more satisfactory
than are the regulation candlesticks are
the silver plated candle lamps, which look
precisely like candle and fit into a stick
which holds oil and burns without odor
There are also small oil lamps which fit
into any stick and have wicks which alb
sorb all the oil in such a manner that tip
ping over the stick extinguishes the light.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06
PRACTICAL TALKS BY TIL
APRIL GRANDMOTHER

"Too much reliance should not be
placed on hair tonics and scalp massage.
If girl is anaemic, run down from over
study or has sluggish liver, her hair
will soon begin to fall out or to look dry
and faded, and the first step toward re-
pairing these evils is to build up her
health
"Some young girls, in their anxiety to
possess abundant tresses, literally wash
the hair off their heads by weekly or
fortnightly soap and water shampoo.
This treatment makes the locks tempo
rarily fluffy, but it also dries the scalp,
and by robbing the roots of coloring
matter. turns the hair gray. While one
white lock above the temples may lend
debutante distinction, its presence indi-
Gates unintelligent care of the hair, or
suggests that she has been experiment.
ing with it in the hope of changing the
color. And that is something from which
the innately refined woman shrinks and
at which nearly all men sneer, secretly
or openly.
the girl who possesses it should be care
frl to keep it satin smooth and free from
dust by frequent strokings with velvet
bristled brush occasionally moistened
ever so slightly with olive oil.
"Brown hair so soon fades and turns
gray that its rich, deep shades are only
TO be preserved by constant vigilance
One method of keeping it beautiful is to
occasionally rub upon the scalp and locks
a very little sour milk, allowing it to
remain for few moments and then
washing it out with warm water.
"Blond hair should be washed with
CASTLE soap and water, then thoroughly
dried in the sunshine whenever possible,
as that helps to preserve the golden
shades. Any preparation containing am
give it an ashen tinge, while peroxide of
hydrogen rinsings will bleach it so grad
uaily that before girl realizes what is
happening she will find herself .possessor
of far more silver than golden locks"
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06
IN EW, sun and wind baths will do
more for the hair than all the

fIN EW, sun and wind baths will do
more for the hair than all the
lotions ever concocted," declared
tbe April Grandmother, as she scanned
the throng of shoppers eagerly listening
fo the lecture of a luXuriantly golden
locked woman demonstrator. Durlhs
the summer months it is especially dlfh-
cult to keep the hair looking nicely but
if a young girl can muster suflcleht
energy to take walk at dawn, let the
dew fall upon her hair and dry gradu-
ally as the sun climbs upward, her hair,
as well as her appetite and general
health, will be greatly benefited A sum-
mer shower, which is scarcely heavier
than dew, is a blessing which no glrl
should fail to take advantage OF, proYld'
ed. of course, that she is not subject to
cold. With feet and shoulders well pro-
tected from the dampness, but with head
uncovered, she may quite safely take a
very short walk, directly after which the
hair should be thoroughly shaken and
then dried with a silk handkerchief.
IT .et the blessed sunshine fall freely
upon your hair if you wish it to become
crisp. fluffy and curling instead of con
tinuing oily, heavy and straight" (The
April Grandmother had succeeded in
finding straw hat of modest proper
tions. and frankly disapproved of her
debutante granddaughter's mammoth
"Sunbeams can do wonders
for the hair that huge hats have helped
"Air the hair daily by shaking it out
and allowing it to fly loosely for as long II
time as possible, The girl who spends
ihe summer months in the country can al
ways find some secluded bower wherein
her rat roll and puff mistreated locks
may obtain the benefit on O sun, air and
wind bath, and for at least half of each
day she should arrange her hair in loose
braid, parting the locks above the brow
in Madonna manner, as that makes a.
youthful face look additionally innocent
and sweet
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

q MART slippers and hosiery are OF
\uuite as much Importance In the M
isbed appearance of a costume as the
hat. gloves, belt or any of the so-calieu
accessories. In summer time when snort
waists are worn by all it is especialy
necessary to have this part OF the outnt
as nearly perfect as the allowance VIII
hermit of. The simpler the dress the
moro nerfect must it be-this is axiomatlc
in it's truth, and therefore with the styie
of shirtwaist and skirt costume so gem
orally worn in summer time the shoes
and stockings must be of the smartest'
White is now worn almost altogether
hv voung girls. and older women OF course
MS well, and with the all white costume
white shoes and stockings have been
nroyen indispensable, no matter now
abbreviated in length the waist may stlli
he Plain white Isle stockings therefore
of medium weight and low shoes mot
numps) are smartest for general wear.
Pumps are in keeping with afternoon
dress. but the athletic girl who does not
scorn to walk or ride bicycle VIII IN
finitely prefer a comfortable hygienic
low cut tie to pump, which, slipping
up and down as she walks, gives her an
uneraceful stride, from which perhaps
She viii never recover, besides inficting
cruel holes in her fine stockings.
Buckskin is most generally preferred in
white shoes, but canvas is cooler and, in
cidentally, is less costly. The newest
white boots, slippers, pumps and tennis
shoes are of cravenette, which, being
waterproof, is excellent for general wear
and, as the material can be cleaned, is
most economical.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

and the belt line will be once more very
nearly if not quite in its normal position.
In purchasing a mourning dress 1t
would be well to select a model which
shows some trimming and plating in the
skirt, for while all still fit closely about
the hips, there are plated 1ounces let in
here and there below the knees which
give considerable of the old time flare
to short skirt. And here is a good
time to emphasize the tremendous i'm
portance of the fit of short dress. Es-
pecially in linen is it imperative for the
material to be smoothly draped and fitted
to the figure, for while in the more sheer
fabrics, as null and lawn, the material
will often cling in of itself in graceful,
becoming lines, with linen this can never
be hoped for. Still another point OF I'M
mense Importance with regard to skirt
which clears the ground is that 1t hang
evenly all around-better wear second
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

~ HE girl with straight hair has ia
"A deed a trying time of it during the
summer months. In the dry, cold
days of winter straight hair, If kept neat
and trim, is rather a beauty than other
wise. but on the damp, muggy days when
the stray ends of curly hair form into
fascinating little wisps and ringlets about
the forehead, adding double charm to the
owner, then the lot of the girl whose
st-ajght ends form anything but fasclnat-
ing tendrils on her brow becomes nara
indeed to bear.
She cannot wear veil while indulglng
in a game of tennis, golf or any other
form of exercise nor IN fact, does ven
ever look appropriate for a young slri
when a simple summer gown is worm anu
the only hope for tidiness is hair net;
A net. however, requires the utmost skill
in adjusting i'll order that 1t may not
Aatten down the pompadour unbecom-
inely, and even then a net IS not apt 10
look well on straight hair-for waving
locks is, of course, not required. as
tened on as loosely as possible, with IN
visible" wire lins and laid over only the
front part of the hair, net will be found
most comfortable to wear for tennis,
motoring, riding, &c, when loose strands
blowing about are a real detriment to
the enjoyment of the sport.
Often instead of net it will be found
sufficient to fasten up each short strand
and stray lock with the invisible hair
pins. The hair is first arranged as usual
and then each short end taken and fas-
tened in, and if there be not too many
such locks to make the scheme imprac-
ticable, the plan is a good one to follow.
No girl should go to the seashore or in
fact anywhere in summer without taking
with her good hair powder or else a
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

II HE newest arrangement of the hair
is a singularly becoming one to all
young girls just graduated from the
pigtail and ribbon stage. Any simple
massing of the hair in coil at the back
of the head is becoming and youthful, and
the girl who has a sufficient amount of
hair should always place it far down tow
ard the neck in some loose coil or knot
until she is old enough to wear it in a
more elaborate fashion.
A scant knot at the back of the head IS,
however, most unattractive. Better leave
the hair down her back until she is old
enough for a more elaborate arrangement.
The present manner of arranging the hair,
however, calls for no Samsonlike mass
and the use of false puffs and curls
is fast being discouraged while, OF
course. the wearing of false hair is al
ways out of the question for a schoolgirl
The most becoming coiffure to be seen
to-day for young girls who are past the
braid and ribbon age consists of soft
pompadour of medium size, somewhat fiat
on the top and pulled out softly on the
sides well toward the back, while at the
back of the head is arranged long single
puff. To obtain this effect is most sim
pie. The hair is first divided toward the
front and back and the pompadour formed
by three combs pushed in firmly. Otter
the hair is not divided at all, being simply
pushed forward and the pompadour helC
in place by three combs, one of medium
size for the centre, the others at eael
side.
Next the hair is taken all together II
the right hand about half way down th'
centre of the head and tied there trmS
with narrow tape or else held by rollins
lightly about it thin strand of the han
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06
SHppers and Hose for Summer

On pumps kid and metal buckles are be-
ing worn again in place of the fiat ribbon
bows. For ties grosgrain ribbon an inch
and half in width should be used Even
for tennis shoes ribbon is now preferred
TO the regular cotton strings, although the
last are, of course, permissible.
In the city, for travelling and fo+ wear
with all gowns of dark shade, as the dark
blue and rose colored linens, brown shoes
and stockings are used with every shade
of gowns save those few with which black
harmonize better. Fine Isle stockings, not
openwork, and ties, or, if preferred, suede
pumps, are smartest in brown, and in the
pumps the fiat bows have given way, as
in the white canvas and suede, to fat
buckles of leather or nickel. Heels of
medium height only are worn; never the
French heel, save with evening dress.
In the evening kid or satin slippers and
silk stockings are worn only with elab-
crate dress Bronze slippers and stock
ings are always in good taste with sum-
mer party frock, and black is constantly
increasing in favor.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

I LTHOUGH always popular sum
~ mer material linen seems to be more
than ever in favor this year. and is
especially smart for all kinds and sorts of
morning gowns, both the severely simple
shirt waist and skirt costumes for golf and
tennis as well as those intended for more
elaborate wear. In the majority of coun-
try places separate white bodice and skirt
costumes are considered suitable for any
sort of use during the forenoon, but in the
more fashionable resorts n "shirt waist
dress" is restricted to the golf links, ten
mis- court or sailboat, simple dress
throughout either of lawn or linen being
donned at other times. Indeed, the simpler
the dress the better, many of the very
smartest models being absolutely plain, of
white or colored linen laid in few plaits
or tucks, and only a stock and jabot Of
lawn or lace and a colored belt to relieve
the simplicity.
The high wasted skirt is to be worn
throughout the summer by all to whom
it is becoming. The average girl looks
exceptionally well in this style of dress,
for it is design calling for excessive
slenderness and straightness of line.
American tailors and dressmakers have
finally learned to hang this style of skirt
correctly, so that the material hangs loose,
SO to speak, from the top of the broad
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06
Becoming Style for Dressing Hair

itself, and held more firmly by a wire
hairpin. Elastic bands should never be
used for this purpose, as they break the
hair distressingy when being removed.
Once all the hair is secure the end is
taken, rolled around the two forefngers,
forming the large puff, which is fastened
at each end underneath by long wire hair
pins, the outside of the puff pulled only
into shape at each end with two pins of
medium length. A shell barrette, not too
large, is then slipped below the puff to
catch in any short hairs that would
otherwise fall loose and give an unkempt
appearance. At the top of the puff, brac-
ing the front comb, may be put in two
fancy shell hair pins. These will help
to hold the hair in place, and with the
shell combs and barrette be an attractive
finish against the hair.
This long single puff may be evolved
from any kind of hair of medium thick
ness, be it long or short, straight or OF
natural curl. Straight hair is, of course,
more difficult to form in a puff, but with
little practice even the long, thin,
stringy variety of hair can be coiled into
puff, which will give the effect OF a
great quantity of a woman's crowning
glory.
If the hair is exceptionally long and
thick or else sufficiently soft and waving
to be easily manageable, three puffs, the
centre one noticeably the largest, will
give a becoming line to the head. When
the hair is naturally stiff and stands out
well by itself there is always difficulty
| in keeping the pompadour within bounds
and the knot or puff from standing out
too far at the back of the head, but for
a schoolgirl especially all exaggeration
must be avoided While, anyway, eXag-
gerated headdresses are fast falling from
! favor.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

moisture and sunshine are alike eX-
cellent remedies for dandruff or souri,
often the accompaniment of an exceed
ingly thick suit of hair and due to eX-
cessive action of the oil glands, which
make the skin of the scalp either too
moist or too dry. 1t is useless to seek to
cure this condition by washing the head
While such treatment may produce a
brief respite, the oily glands are stimu-
lured to increased activity, and the last
state is worse than the first.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06
AS to Girls Who Whistle.

THAT old adage "Whistling girls and
growing hens always come to some
bad end must be relegated to obliv-
ion, for whistling has come into fashion,
and it would be cruelty to prophesy cal
amity to all the girls now striving to
attain proficiency in the art. Some girls
take as naturally as boys do to whistling,
while others have to cultivate it, and
there are still others whose lips seem
TO refuse to pucker up in the fashion
necessary for proper results. Bolster
ous whistling is not the sort in vogue,
but sweet, birdlike rendering of melodic
trills and medleys which, artistically done,
is an attractive. clever accomplishment.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

er board size the checks are seen, but
there is a size somewhat less than half
inch square that is especially smart and
youthful. Great ingenuity may be dis
played in the managing of all check ma
terials, the texture being folded over upon
itself tucked and plated in such wise as
to give the effect of a solid color, and
again an apparently all white band being
placed where such an effect may be called
for. Bands of plain colored lawn and
oftentimes of linen are also employed in
the trimming of the check gingham gowns
this year.
On both linen and gingham gowns the
sleeves are generally seen to be quite
plain, long, of course, and finished at the
wrist with a narrow edging of white.
The yolSes of the simplest gowns are ALL
however, exceptionally pretty and of fine
workmanship. Net is not used so much
now as sheer batiste, finest tucked or
candle and thin lawn combined with some
fine entire deux of Cluny or Irish lace.
In one extremely simple linen gown was
high collar and narrow square yoke
of organdie, relieved only with a tiny
edging of crochet lace at the top of the
collar, the same edging being noticed as a
finish at the cuff of the long, plain sleeve.
! / N only a few of the linen, pongee or
gingham dresses is there any yoke at
the back this season, the material it.
self coming to the edge of the collar
and finished with a narrow revere effect
! in silk or embroidery. In front the yoke
is narrow and generally square, although
| in small number of the newer gowns a
round yoke is to be seen. When a gown
is finished without high collar about
the throat there is no yoke, of course, the
gown being finished off at the throat
with a soft silk tie or iabot of lace.
Collarless gowns will never remain in
favor for city wear, but in the country
the fashion is a delightfully."- comfortable
one, and is, moreover, becoming to the ma
jority of young girls. All exaggeration is
to be avoided, of course, and especially i'll
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

r ASHIONS are in a decidedly trans
itory state at the moment ana II
would be well for the girl OF meagre
allowance to avoid all extremes in her
dress save that of great simplicity. her
sleeves should not be too small nor her
skirt too tight, nor should her waist line
be high to the point of exaggeration. 1t
is hard to make definite predictions Tor
the future just yet, but it is safe to say
that three months hence full skirts-that
is. of course, comparatively speaking
will be in vogue once more, sleeves VIII
no longer show the narrow shoulder line
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

cannot be worn out, and for the econom-
ical girl this is almost an objection to the
texture, for her frugal mind cannot bear
to purchase a new gown while she has
another that, if old fashioned in its lines,
is yet perfectly good. 1t is mistake,
however, to carry economy too far, and if
the last years frock cannot be altered so
as to be up to date it must be discarded
and a new one substituted.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

- o be smartly and appropriately
gowned at all times and in all
places is and should be the am
bition of every living woman, be
she sixty or sixteen. Fortunately
the appropriate can be attained
to always, no matter what the
allowance, while frequently those cos
tunes which appear smartest do not i'm
ply necessarily the greatest cost. And
this is just the lesson which it behooves
every girl to take unto herself-that a
little study and small measure of
thoughtful planning will often evolve an
outfit which answers every requirement
for the style of country place in which
she happens to spend her summer, and
have left over besides nice little sum
for various accessories which she might
otherwise have had to go without
Naturally it is difficult for a girl whose
allowance is half that, perhaps, of her
dearest friend to realize that she can
manage to be just as well gowned at all
times as that more favored friend, but
indeed this is well within the realms Of
possibility. She must make up her mlnd,
to commence with, to purchase only
gowns of more or less simple character,
and during the summer time she must es-
chew the more delicate shades in such
textures as linen and the fascinating soft
mousselines, for, alluringly pretty as they
are when just made up, the perishable
color will soon lose its soft tint and the
gown can no longer be worn. She had
best keep firmly to white during the sum-
mer months, and, no matter how formal
the gathering, a girl gowned in a well
fitting white frock, be it lawn or linen, is
sure to look charming. Bright colored rib
hons are fortunately inexpensive and go
far to add to the charm of an otherwise
all white costume.
1t is constantly heard said that the only
difficulty with a linen gown is that it
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

band of betting down to the hips, and IS
cut in in no way to suggest the so-called
corselet skirt of three years back. This
so-called Paquin skirt will therefore con-
tinue to be worn in all such textures as
linen, pongee, silk and even in the thinner
fabrics as WELL
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

BINGHAM is a delightful weight text
lure for hot weather, and check ging-
hams made up simply, with just bit
Of baby Irish lace at throat and wrist,
are in vogue year after year. From small
pin point check to those of regular check
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06
Hints for the Straight Haired Girl

package of powdered orris. In damp
weather a small amount of the powder
sprinkled on the hair and brushed out
lightly will dry it out and make it far
easier of arrangement. The powder will
in no way injure the hair, will tend to
clean it, in fact; but care should be
taken not to allow it to get brushed into
the roots, which would be apt to dry the
scalp of the head too much.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

the linen and all somewhat heavy ma
terials care must be taken to have the
soft white turned down collar fasten well
up to the throat, else the linen will be
both ugly and in bad taste for the day
time.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

in front or sides-the first will always
be forgiven, the other is inexcusable.
THERE is a decided trimness in the
fit of all gowns for young girls this
season, and even in the separate
bodices there is little blouse in front and
in back, and on the sides the waist must
be held down smooth and fat under the
belt.
One piece linen gowns are seen in great
variety this year, and for the morning
there is no style of dress more attractive.
In dark green, raspberry or natural col
ored linen, one model which, finished in
back with only a few wide tucks, is fas-
tened in front, little to one side, all the
way down from collar to hem with large
buttons covered with the material itself, is
exceedingly pretty. AT the throat is a lit
Los Angeles herald., 1909-06-06

year hat than a skirt longer in back than
in front or sides-the first will always
be forgiven, the other is inexcusable.