The Yale expositor., 1909-05-07

/7OLVI//TTYSN.
The perils encountered and precau-
tions necessary to be taken in climb
ing the Alps, is given in an interesting
letter from a correspondent, which fol-
lows
A few days ago We started for
mild winter climb up the Gemmi pass
"a mere walk in the summer-at 8
a. m. on a calm, warm morning. Be-
fore VIC were half way up snow came
on, and long before we reached the
Schwarrenbach we we're battling with
a ferocious blizzard. We were glad
to get off that mountain by six o'clock
in the evening, descending the last
slopes in thick darkness and storm,
with avalanches laundering all
around us.
tell this simple tale as a casual H.
lustration of the perils of winter climb
ing. Since that day Switzerland has
been swept by an extraordinary storm
from the south, almost unprecedented
at this time of the year, costing at
least one very precious life and en-
dangering the existence of many 9TH
ers. 1t is the reminder of the great
mountains that they are not to be
trifed with in winter. Before more
lives are lost perhaps it may be as
well TO ask what are the peculiar con-
ditions and perils of this winter climb
ing that promises to become the new
est development of an honorable
sport.
The extraordinary stiffness and
clearness that prevail in the Alps for
days together during the winter are
very likely to lull the average climber
into a dangerous trustfulness. The
silence of the frozen streams produces
a sense of peace that contrasts danger
ously with the noisy vitality of the
spring and summer. During these
days of settled frost the avalanches
are dumb, the waterfalls hang in
waves of frozen whiteness; the ice
falls of the great glaciers stand mo-
tionless. The deep blue of the sap
phire sky behind the great ranges of
white mountains-fo nearly all the
mountains are white in winter-pro-
duces a sense of great confidence. The
old warnings against climbing the Alps
in winter seem childish panic. IF only
one could get such conditions in sum
mer!" is the inevitable cry. This is
just what we have been waiting for
all our lives!"
Pint thara ara ono or two oonoidero
lions on the other side, not always
dwelt upon by the guides, who are per-
haps naturally anxious to add a sec.
ond season to their first. One is the
fact that this clear and beautiful
weather, this weather of radiant sun.
shine and pellucid skies, is certain at
due intervals, generally of fortnight
at a time to be interrupted by sud.
den and violent snowstorms The only
security against these is to watch the
barometer closely, and never to climb
with a falling glass. The advent OF
these storms is generally recorded
very promptly and accurately by our
age to obey his warnings and give up
planned expedition.
The second is that whatever condi
tions impede climbing in the summer
they impede it tenfold in winter Take
snow, a source of great fatigue at the
best. In the summer you will not be
troubled with snow until you have
reached 5000 feet. In the winter you
begin with snow at 1000 or 1900 feet
and continue with snow till the end
Ski-running may and does do a great
deal to modify the fatigue of these con
ditions. But skis cannot abate the
great cold which so much snow brings
or remove the dangers of cold on the
mountains.
No true mountaineer laughs at frost
bite. II is the most terrible of the
mountain perils, the most rapid In its
assaults, the most painful in its con
sequences, the most difficult to guard
against. But there are one OF two
rules which can be easily followed and
understood. Frost-bite prefers to at
tack the extremities, where the pow
er OF the heart is weakest. Something
can be done, therefore, by doubling
the gloves and stockings. More car
be done, perhaps, by resisting the
asmptstion to stand or eft in soft snow