Judith Gap journal. [volume] (Judith Gap, Mont.) 1908-19??, 1909-08-20
SETTING OUT A WIND
BREAK AND ORCHARD
In 3 Or 5 Years a Windbreak And a
Profitable Orchard Can Be Raised.

Campbell's Scientific Farmer:
TO the Editor {. $. Farmer:
wantNo start setting on; orchard next
spring. have sandy loan will, some lime
stone an east and northeast slope. About all of
our hard winds come from the west want to
set out trees for windbreak l want a small
orchard for home use and raise cherries grapes
and dewberres for sale. Would you please give
Your plan for same IL l.. Nichols
Mr.. Nichols has propounded Il very
important question, one doubtless
that rises in the minds Of many farm
ers in our new country. The growing
OF windbreaks and small orchards is
very simple proposition, requires
but little experience and is as sure of
success rs almost anything that we
attempt to grow on the western prair-
les. assuming that the soil we have to
deal with is commonly termed sand
loam soil, with clay subsoil.
In the first place take land that has
been cropped at least once. begin as
soon as the crop is removed in the
autumn by double disking. Keep up
this careful cultivation until July.
Then p!ow about inches deep, fol
lowing with the packer and the har-
row. cutivating after each succeeding
rain during the remainder Of the sum-
mer and autumn. The object is to
store as much rain AS possible and to
promote the growth Of nitrates.
We have had the best success in
tree planting by not digging any holes
until the tree was OF the ground ready
to set. If you have carried out
seasons summer tilling, the chances
are that you will have three to five
feet of moist soil. With the kind of
soil above referred to it is not neces-
sary to dig the hole any larger than
may be needed to spread the roots of
the tree when set. The hole, how
ever, should be dug so as to loosen
the dirt a little at the bottom, leaving
a pointed pile of loose dirt in the
bottom OF the hole, as most fruit trees
have no tap root and you will have to
set the tree upon this pointed pile Of
dirt.
Now begin filling in the moist dirt
that you have just shoveled out, which
should be well pulverized. and with
your hands work the soil about the
roots of the tree Fill in until you
have it higher at the outer edge of the
hole and slanting towards the edge of
the tree. Then put in about IL quart
of water. Take holl of the tree and
vibrate slightly. This will promote
the percOlation OF the water along the
line Of the roots, which you should
previously have taken care to lay
straight and separated us near as pos
sible to the angle at which they grew
in the ground. After this done, fill
the hole up within inches of the top,
and tramping it firmly, ill the balance
with loose dirt.
Now, if you have secured good,
healthy trees and have taken precau-
tiOn not to let the little librous roots
on the main branch roots Of the tree
become dry you are certain of success
in their growth. "A very nice plan in
handling small trees in the spring is
to make a mud bath, having sufficient
amount OF dirt i'll it TO make a solution
thick enough SO that the tree can be
stopped about and the mud adhere to
all the little tibroms roots, as well as
to the main roots of the tree. With
this adhering to the roots they can be
handled quite leisurely without amy
possible injury.
In growing ii windbreak, we object
| to the thick setting of trees that we
find so commonly practiced. For Il
| low downwind break, say to shut the
| wind from height of 10 feet, the
Russian mulberry is quite desirable,
setting one row of it and putting the
trees four feet apart. The most vital
| feature in the success of tree growing
lies is thorough cultivation during the
first year. Permit no weeds, what
ever to grow. After Il few years
growth, and before the buds begin to
start the following year, trim these
! little trees on both sides, leaving all
branches pointing lengthwise OF the
rows. At the end of each year follow
this practice and you will soon have ii
mass Of limbs and leaves to the height
to the height of or 10 feet.
Inside of this, and about 30 feet
away from the mulberry hedges, plant
a row Of white elms, putting the trees
the trees about % feet apart. If these
trees are well and carefully cultivated
it will be but little while before the
tops will meet and they will tower up
above the mulberry hedge.
DO not set any Of your fruit trees or
shrubbery nearer than 3OfeettrOm the
row of elms.
This in six or ten years will make Il
most complete and effective, as well
as attractive Windbreak.
If You are to set shade trees around
the field be sure and give plenty of
space between. Trees set too close
together will not make the egrOwthand
will not put on the attractive appear