Omaha daily bee., 1909-04-04

green turban; the corpse, covered with a
crimson patterned cloth; several small boys
In flannelette Jackets of marvellous de-
sign, and the group OF mourners--men in
loose. blue trousers, sleeveless vests which
reveal gaudy colored shirts, and scarlet
bands swtathed round and round their
waists to a width of fourteen inches. A
few feet from the group is the grave
digger. he leisurely pats the ground Civ
ing a final touch to the open grave, while
across his shoulders is slung a coat whose
quaint mode of reparation reminds one of
an old maids patchwork quilt. Nobody
weeps; It is not the custom of the Turks
to lament the will Of Allah.
On the road itself. plodding along under
heavy baskets Of far, produce. are many
h~nmals-human beasts of b~urden-whose
travelstained rags and unwashed ap-
pearance induce you to give them a wide
berth. And when nearing Top Kapu
gate you come in sight OF a doubtful look
ing encampment containing, as you pre-
sently discover. the surplus population of
the Gypsy quarter within the gate you are
inclined to give this a still wider berth,
for were 1t not that a strong, strange odor
OF cooking assails your nostrils as you look
down upon their novels from the walls you
would expect to find yourself in the vicin-
ity of the recently vacated outhouses OF a
farm.
Women by disease.
You are not surprised at the diseases
and sores which disfigure many of the
women and girls who follow you, dressed
in long, baggy trousers, asking for back
sheesh as you hurry your footsteps past
the stencil that rises from what appears
to be the refuse heap Of the great city,
but neither the dogs that wallow in the
mire, nor the inhabitant OF the nearest
guardhouse seem TO find in 1t anything
unappctizing. In the boneyard near by,
where worn out. useless beasts are slaugh-
tered, dogs turn over and nose among the
filth until they find a stray bone. which
they gluttonously devour.
Sickened with these sights and smells
I you turn around a slight bend and thank
fully see the little cafes and booths out
side the Adrianople gate, through which
Mohammed the conqueror rode In triumph
and through which each succeeding sultan
at his accession TO the throne has ridden
TO the palace after being girded with the
sword Of Osman at Eyoub Mosque. But
for a while the walls. which are almost
perfect here, are forgotten, as on reaching
the last hill you come upon a little steep
street ana see DeiOIe YOU through q HliSNs
the village of Eyoub with the dome and
minaret of it's mosque; and beyond these
the Golden Horn threading it's way 10 the
sweet waters Of Europe, while raising its
head out OF a gauzy white mantle is the
green hill on the opposite shore.
Famous Gate of kakOpOrtO.
Turning off the road here you enter the
city by a little postern gate-the famous
Kerportoe. which lost the city TO the
Turks during the last siege-and pass
through a portion of the Greek quarter.
where the women lean from their windows
or come TO their doors to see a stranger
pass.
Shoulder 10 shoulder with the Greek col
ony is a group of Turkish houses closed
and silent as il only occupied by the dead,
and these you pass in some trepidation.
remembering a recent experience In an
other Turkish quarter. then hasten your
steps as you come suddenly upon several
veiled figures at an ancient fountain.