The San Francisco call., 1909-09-26

III e q
hsETF4r season matter which 1t may be, can
<f4ST5EM picked up, and only ideas but
HY4&ks$fg novelties well If straws show the
way the wind blows then there is a
certs.a amount OF chan floating from shop to
shop here. little couturiere to the other
from the big dressnaker in the Rue lie to the
small and unknown or of the boulevards,
from tie designer OF the smartest Of hats the girl
who goes by day and copies many cen
times houi. Be they ever well guarded the
world famous establishments always
leak and tliis particular moment. between
and autumn is the time OF ali others when there
IS the aaost whispering and many little birds
tales.
Hats rro the vital question just now for the true
Parisiaa begins to think Of her fall millinery long be-
fore TIE IS and also she begins
it many weeks before it is shown almost thought
OF IN Aler4ca. The fact there still an
ment Of uncertainty regards the coming styles
makes the purchase OF any headgear less Of
gamble for whether they large small
high loW, massive delicate. betrinned of
most simplicity be left
is like the swing the pendulum. may up
may go down, and all do is to watch and wait
until it gets steady
One thing, however. is absolutely and that
IS that the hrst OF the autumns offerings to be
small, return to the popular toque the
discarded taGlaa. The smarbest hats in the best
tabshmen,s are distinctly on less ample lines than
have eeea seasons, and although
these &c but passing fancy they preern
nently The thing
Velvet. tuile. long haired soft cloth and silk
enter into The construction OF these
have ireislendous OF dash and chic
just the right angle. and that they be-
fetching
As the trimmings the preference seems 20 be
given ell kinds feathers wings place
flowers, foliage and pumes such used much
last winter. Aigrettes have the first claim way
Of smartress and nothing could be jaunty than
Of decorated with
huge choux Of tuIo and outstanding wavy feathers
White course always a safe and sure
choice, but there also some beautiful aigrettes
and other similar feathers osprey and the like which
il wonderful colorngs effective.
There is also new sort of wing that inaiecs
stunning trimming is be had deeper
shades, such bright blue rich brown and several
OF green. 1t is a long much wing
made Of fine feathers which lie perfectly
glance It looks like heavy piece mirror velvet
which has been pressed into huted shape and fitted
the side Of the hat Used in connection with the
furry cloth The contrast is striking
At Caroline Reboux's. where some of the
Of the toques turbans seen, trim
ming IN most subordinate the shape.
They eli intended TO be well down the
head quite covering the hair being simply
frame TO the face An important looking had
the brm turned up much higher front
and this quite untrimmed but for small osprey
placed almost Directly IN front. The showed
OF velvet and brim Of plush felt.
Another which up evenly absolutely
round. crown being two higher than the
brm. and the material the long II was
heavy and massive looking characteristic of many.
One model OF velvet and tue the color being black.
made Of alternate folds materials
There outstanding brim this. but the hat
built up fully nine inches height and was per-
fectly round. Its trimming consisted Of a
chou Of tulle In the center Of which al
grette, also black and this placed
front
The arrangement of trimmings is one Of the
marked differences between the the tooues
The former trimmed rather stiy usually well in
front whatever Is employed In the
way OF trimming is low much at the side
Some Of the silk turbans fascinating and
they delightfully."- comfortable to They look
quite like Turkish head dress. for the material
wound a crinoline form. which in itself is
light be- and these generally without
trimming except for tassel a big cabochon at
one SIDE. Many OF these hats are made to match
certain costume. that is in color. and the
these OF figured silk. either new silk
that is somewhat heavier. but is also patterned
OF the colors charming a mulberry on
which IS a conventional design sulphur dull
green figured IN black tea color with queer spots of
deep red purple any combna-
tion that select. The hats of two
Of silk. one forming the portion
OF the brim. and the twisted around the re-
unsinder Of the brm and then tied directly front
the ends Of the silk standing like ears
They are simple but smart
Among large hats. novelty is one of soft felt
with high but rather small and large droop-
ing brin- 1t comes in dark blue dark gray and a
pretty shade of called here dead
fesf" 1t, however, is the trimming than the
shape that makes these hats unusual. and con-
sists only Of white cotton fringe. crown
ere to be seen two rows put fat and the
side a huge rosette made OF after Of fringe
caught in the center with big ornament of
1t sounds like comic opera, worn with tailored
linen gowns, yellow, and white, they most
distinctive.
Another hat which have a vogue for
early fall is the old fashoned Gansborough, is
being brought IN the largest possible size The
crowns and outside of the brtms of these en+,rv
covered with black velvet. The soft picture
affairs and they droop about the face in fas-
cinating and becoming manner The trimming consists
Of huge bunch of flowers placed the right side
One of these the day worn by an
extremely pretty girl trimmed with mass
OF poppies shading from deep cherry red to pale
pink Over her gown of white batste and lace she
long chiffon scarf, which reached almost ts
her feet and this of bright cherry She look
ed adorable and she simply dressed as need
There many delightful little costumes that are
being daily from Paris to all surrounding
sorts. for seaside mountain will later be
used for home gowns. for the or for second
best Among these those made of are mos
attractive. and they especially useful on account