davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-10-15

portioned< lining and outside drapery, with the seams. ill inc right places and running at q proper slant, will make a figure look, entirely different from sone with careless cutting which is called. "a it," simply because the figure fills. 1t smoothly ard there are no wrinkles.
 Adapting the Shoulder Seams
 If you will look at any pattern you will notice all extension above the shoul- der seam crl the front sections. When the bust size is larger thar that. of the pattern, judgment will tell ycu that increased room is required on both the 1eEgti1 and breadth. Note also that 1t Is necessary to extend the neck-li1le cor respondingly, that the fit at this point shall be snug and properly close.
 This $ not a lesson in drafting; 1t is jnst careful and experienced dress makers way of adding inches where she knows tf:ey are needed. l call your at tentiors here to an extension at the u11- derarc, scam, principally because l want to si,o.,' how, when you do this, you mast also extend on the lower part of the arnno1e. Increase on the length of the sboulder-line will rarely be neces- rary, as. that line 1engthens i'll almost imperceptible proportion to the rest of the figure. For the same reason, though ti:c lower part of the French dart seam may need an increase, 1t will not likely be necessary i'll the upper part
 Large Waist Measure v
 When the waist measure IS very large in proportion to the bust, there will probably be more increase at the frcat than fine back, and most of ,his must probably be allowed at the dart ard eesster Il1hesahdesaaiEg deXssop- P;
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-10-15
1ALKS ONAD DR,ESSNfAKINGt ! Simple and Sure Method off Adapting Waist @ sf1P3tfers3s* :

are normal, orsnear,y 50. follow it care f,ti4s- ;'T,'
 sIt Is useless for amateur or profes- sioral to try 70 improve upon 1t, for it can't be cone.' But if the bsst measure IS perEaDs 45 riches, ard the waist 3o~- ard I have really had such measures submitted to .7le-.yoti can make such charges OF a Ac-inch pattern that you EeeI have no .Eore trouble.
 A Lining 2attesn .*
 Most waist patterns. -un to 40, ard some to 42 inches. bust measure, and q p1ai1l-ftted French lining pattern s(w1th no oVcr-dTapery) may De bought as large as SO ii:ches bust 1 strongly adj isase getting one of these patterns, i;; spesI o-~s bust sig, if possible, and, ;isis1s;;{fit as } guide, make . new pattern af4.ered .o you- ctl1e- measures. Once tfis lining rntte-n l. m5Ge to fit you cor relt.y. -lou l1v~ a model fo- all future cccasio::s. < waist li,iirg is TO: cut in SC many pieces, fer t does not extend over the hips. where practically the greatest number of fitting scail's arc re- .l.iire... A front portion with a dart, a back aid estGer orc O. 5tao siIe-for7ns. arc ai! .t,at art required IF thc l:n.sR of a sdrap~Is,ua;st
 The points .,i enlargement Vi. Dc the safne in tiis: iiniaE with fewer pieces. IS :n 'hc French l;1,:is;s, wit.i greater sastii5gI scuri:s::s o11ssYgsSyI. t}ES latter <
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-10-15

srnartness that Is very desirable The outer edge of the ring IS caught to. the under edge of the button. This setting gives a finish that looks very conpi catcG.
 s If you wish something very chic, make a button of white satin. paint Ores den flower i'll the center. and mount it in ring of gold cord; this cord 1T: silver Or gold sells three yards for ten cents, and 1t may be combined most effectively i'll the making of applique bardsI These bands are used on many of the expensive dresses, as narrow vests and panels, or to outline the square neck or jumper oE dresses that are worn over thin yoke or blouse. They are made of chiffon or net foundation, and show elaborate combination of enbroid cry, silver or gold threads and soutache braids To buy then, ore must have dollars; to make them, only little sense.
 "Oh,'' you say, 'its all very we'll to tell such things 10 an expert needle woman, but what of the girl who can't embroider? What of: herr Of one thing you may be assured, and that IS, that she is of my own kin. For her the latch string hangs always on the outside of the Little Shop in Arcadia, where these Dollars-and- Sense ideas are originated. and put to a practical test
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-10-15

TN VERY HOW and then I receive : A letter fracl sorze reader who-gives
 las hsf mes,a,rsafneuts (wh;eln afE greater thai, those ots tlie. largest pattsrps9 and aaks how she can get a pattern by which she can make herr owit dresses Usually tkese n.eas- IT crrents Besides being greater ,is2 i1sfes, sass ;nspery different proportions rom those af.a pattern. Each set O: ffasasE3r rsnsents sthat I receive in t.1;s Way would require 3 special cyt=to-rne as lre T,artes5i. as no two. even with sasrierbhsr- measure have wal tsandf other :i,easures to correspond .-.s.
 N10s flS:s ID i1s,Et of Sthe business%off [ tfe stsilcrSo pattarn $ tstp. tell his clients how stss sErapare their elRns=but I 5eel that F i.itss l. to be sliy, IslIEIss. as s.un- f.stJnziEg adviser es..tl,st laa-Hisssess d-e5s-. rs.:aker a.sG the professsshS .cs7, if s.lc wants l1iys heip). to explain away the difficulties and point out rhe ways that are simpie--wllen you Inow tEcn;.
 1yeseriss of 7irassr1a1Ing
 Isrsss1lHteing, to E. wc-nsr p9f1o Ktowa sIscsucE3y xxnthfEs about &ssT Scesns sacn al 6fgAdfais aaI Sanysterfous 1:ndrrta3sisis that I .afls fIiea with adui ration e,i rse sosi-aee and p:rck .s,: soideJcf my cor
 respondents. wflo.e questions prove their irs:k of knowledge. A good ra.terH is s vel Ill ir.scd snd Arryzx rliFxx4h node! LII tls sss<ss 0sss ; ss1ps o9ssI
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-10-15
Let Children Be Children

Let Children Be Ch1lC-en
 Writers and lecturers are constantly urging the duty of parents being com panicrs to their children l. is undoubt- edly desirable that they should be, but with our modern life 1T: apartments and flats, sometimes question whether the little ones are not thrown too -.luch with their parents, and a danger does not threaten on too close conpanionship with elders. 4 child needs a certain amount Of freedom and relaxation from effort, and the constant association of older people is apt to be too stimulating Particularly is this tho case when the companionsilip IS on the mothers rather than on the child's level.
 Mothers. let us be children with our children, rather than make them old be- yond their years in tine knowledge and ways of tie world Childhood at best is of short duration, and we should so bring up our children that in after years they may say with St Paul, When I was a child, I thought as a child and spake as a child" Let them leave to manhood the putting away of childish things. Teaching Child Moral Responsibility
 : Among mary experiences bearing upon the relation of parents, school and child, the wise ard judic;o1s action of father seems most worthy To be told.
 The little girl was twelve years old when she enrolled herself as member of School Garden, of which 1 was Supervisor. In this particular garden
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-10-15

the woman with dollars; but certain it is that there are more good-looking ma fer4els differed at inexpensive prices than everFbefore.s And tie dictatoTs:;of.f fash ion, too,. must Haveahad hers in mind, for many of the prevailing styles show dresses of plain materials with wide plaid oEstripe hands at the foot of the skirt, oHeIlhg to the ingenious endless op- portu1ilties for the. combining of short "a allowance may goaforth joyfully. to do her winter, shopping. being assured. that there are many good things awaiting her.
 Desirable tMateriaas
 Broadcloth,s ! Of course, makessthe hand soonest street dress one may have, but the durable serge and cheViot and the; new chevronst stripes. are in great demand for tailor suits. x Many conservative sWpn1en invariably choose their winter ssuit of black, adding touch of color with hat or blouse to do away with a mourning effect.
 It is inconspicuous, and therefore may be worn for more than a season without noticeable comment. It is as suitable for church as it is for shopping, and the addition of light gloves and a fancy hat makes 1t appropriate for even rather ceremonious occasions. But if black is not desired, dark blue Of brown is equal ly as serviceable &
 A dark blue serge could be made most effective if a vest of black satin, and blue covered buttons set ill black, be used. The seams should be finished with "a black satin piping, and as they are straight, satin ribbon mounted or cotton cord, instead of the more ex- pensive bias satin, may be used
 Suggestion for Brown Dress
 A brown dress with buttons and pip ing, showing a touch of burnt orange, would be most satisfactory. Many of the new models show these narrow satin pipings, aIid a lavish use of fancy but. ,toris of loosely cord or satin I hey. may be copied for less than once fifth the price asked in the stores.
 As,biack dress could Have buttons of black silk cord. and san, adjustable vest Or ratheF tive. vest tss,-oiie of silk showing z,af. gold braid, and orle for fiisasls..neaf Sofsgraer denim or white, 2igas with l. 5isff fsf foK piping -:d3f =ere,
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-10-15

smaller addition on eacli seam will pro- duce the desired increase. The ideal method is to cut the French lining, fit CT have it fitted carefully. (you can do 1t yourself if you take time to it., then put it o11 a bust form and pad 1t where needed 10 make # firm and strong and according to your own shape.
 valuo of Bust Form
 Bust forms are of several kinds There is the. extension form, that every one G1 who can possibly afford 1t will nave Failing tlsis;- much lighter and more cheaply- y-r1ade forn, of papier-mich4 is sold 1T the large department stores Of every city. These are not adjustable, but are sold ir tie different bust sizes
 My mother had a favorite -oroverD win which to rs.eet my youthful. excuses ---tfe needle was bent, the scissors not sharp "A poor workman always bla1:aes his tools Of kindred belief must be the courageous ana determined ire Id wEo has written me that, finding 1t impossible for the time being to get a bust form. s:le to,tk a fat s5ick, naileyl across itx 2s shoulder support another sl.,,rte- stick, tEcn wound aid -ewourid about tn. rn straw and hay, u,etil' the i'm rroy ise.l form approached tle shape and size. Then she pinned the lining ove- 1t and completed tie padd:ng with hand fuls where neeced.
 Otne-s have pinned the lining. around a pillow, or even two, though 1t is not so easy toi get q good shape in this way. Because the lining Is filled s:iaS,y, a wcll-shsped figure docs s11oe naturally re- suit, a::d thae Is a lesson tia. stout worl- en and the makers of tl1ei- dresses sEoE5d talsz&to haay ps.lMapT2a
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-10-15


 By accessories mean vest, buttons, or whatever trimming you may select.
 For a small girl raalSe blue serge coat. Line 1t with cretonne, being care ful to choose a stripe, or a shadowy de sign Make the cuffs and revers of green velvet, Dresden silk showing blue ground, or better still, if you have a collar and cuff set of white linen, done in the eyelet work, that was so much used last winter, use that. Not, of course, as it is HOW, but after you have transformed it into an expensive nov city. Edging the scallops is a band of solid green cretonne. caught with French knots of black. The eyelets are made solid by basting pieces of cadet-bllte linen beneath them; they are held in place with knots of green, and in the center of each is knot of burnt orange.
 hThe cost eof.sach "a ,koat will be: .-
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-10-15

i'll, that they are made up, so that not only4 are they. seen s'in the minds eye" p of the originator, bat by the critical eyes of heiCourt of Dollars. And. so- 'eThe Girl Who. Can't Enlbroider' may in Nst' less than a dollar. less than days work, and no eyesight/ at all, and still !. have hand-c1lbroidsred bands that are as effective as any of the imported ones the shops are offering at fancy prices. An Effective Design
 They are offering in the shops a three inch cream insertion that sells for ten cents a yard. This is the way one wom- an Is using 1t. A heavy black silk floss is run in and out the edge. The outer edge of the design is run with a small silver cord, then III the same holes is run strand of blue floss. The curved figure in the center is run with pink floss, then with the silver cord The French knots are of black The space lace, and the. rings are buttonlloled in black Another design is a two-inch white insertion showing Wall of Troy in a stamp that shows Up very much like a soutache braid The edges are run in and out first with a gold cord, then with blue silk The design Is out lined by catching :he gold cord with black silkoti1e- Of course the co1ors should be determined by the material for which the trimming is intended.
 A Mourning Trimming S
 A most effective mourning trimming is combination Of net,sil.l cord ;li:d flow CTS of dull ribbon. To make t, haste the net over iissue-paper or which the de- sign is drawn The cord is whipped on, and the flowers are held in place with the French knot certers. They are of No ribbon, which is cut itcto A inch lengths. Each petal IS formed by doubling the ribbon, lacking the sides Of ore end back to make a point. and gathering the other end into the center
 A ge7y small silk cord is like the proverbial needle i'll the haystack; but you can pull down the haystack and find 1t, simply by untwisting a medium sized cord. I did this win cord that sells for four cents a yard, and I not only got what I wished, but at cost of about one and one-third cents yard. The flowers may be of wider ribbon, or Of crepe For coIored dresses, satin Or velvet fibfcif of the same or a contrast ing color may be used.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-10-15


 The College Girls Dressing
 For the college girl home for the holidays, serpentine crepe of pale pinl or blue, the underblouse of net and tn, waist done with a spray of ribbor roses, may be made for less than five dol1ars-a small sum to invest for the pleasure 1t will give. ..
 A recent letter from Paris told me of the very charming dancing frocks that are fashioned of hand-painted tissue and mousseline. They are painted in splashy conventional designs, and are of course most expensive, but the same effect may be obtained by the use of sheer white or pafe-tinted organdies Don't sew up the seam in your skirt till the design has been painted in.
 To do this shadow work, which is very simple, more effective, and far prefer able for thin or soft materials than stenciliag, sketch your design on heavy paper, and haste 1t und~r the organdie. Wash the flowers in with water colors, and outline them with irregular splashes of black, working just as you would on paper. If you cannot draw your own design, and are ten miles" from a de sigrier,. you may find 9 design on a scrap or wallpaper or cretonne. Trace this on a piece of organdie, and haste it over heavy paper Blasting the model to the material IS preferable to pi11ning.
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-10-15

Making Buttons
 The making of fancy buttons and ap-- plique is as simple as the results are, satisfactory. { The buttons may be of plain or plaid satin, or velvet, of ere tonne, or of braid wound loosely and caught to a foundation, which covers 2 mold They may be. mounted i'll a ring, 5uttonhoieei: i:l silk or silkotine, black, as rule; for -thate gives q touch of
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-10-15
CLOTH AND VELVETEEN
For the Little Girl

For the Little Girl
 For the littlest. girl, coat that is both. serviceable and dressy may be made of heece-lined pique. Buttons and bands, if sparingly used of white cretonne, showing a small lowered design, will give Parisian air Such coat may De made for less than two dollars: AZ yards of pique at SC cents 6
 yard ....:...-..........$ ST. s yard of striped cretonne- !... .25 Button molds. .... .... e.o5 Thread o5
 Total. .$I.7o
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-10-15
'S F PARIS HINTS

Beautiful Waist
 | My waist shows design done in velvet flowers, the exact shade of the dress. The stems were made by cut ting the inchwide ribbon in half, and covering a small cotton cord with it. In using the wide ribbon 1t is not reces- sary to double the ribbon. j Cut it the desired length of the petals, allowing for seam at one end i; double across and stitch at one end, turn on the right side, point the stitched end and gather the other end on round of cotton cloth, which serves as a foundation for the center of French knots that are done after flower has been pasted on the goods @~y,.; -s... The waist also shows satisfactory way of altering waist too tight to look well, and yet without tucks or fullness to let out It was cut down the front, and a vest of narrow lace edge inserted. The Use of Net -. sa
 an extensive use of net, and many of the fancy imported waists are of net, simply tucked, with long sleeves, for morning wear, and trimmed with lace and hand d-embroidery for more dressy occasions. One of these simple little morning blouses'' have seen belongs to member of The Court of Dollars. The sleeves and front are hand-tucked; the only trimming is jabot of the net line-it' came from a certain shop in Paris, where its wearer thinkseshe finds wonderful bargains-it IS a simple little blouse" and 1t cost the simple little price of $25 oo!
 I have blouse of net, only little larger in mesh, and 1t cost-one dollar and twenty-eight cents'l If you could see it you would marvel greatly; for wash blond, as you know, IS narrow, for less than fifty cents a yard"? Of course it doesn't, but mosquito net doesl It sells for fifty cents yard, and 1t IS t1vo aud one-hdIf yards zOide. Not the cross-barred kind, but the round mesh, which makes all manner of pretty things. Ky Final shirt-waist 9"S
 Tke bands, which go from the belt lire over the shoulders down the front and down the sleeves, are worked simply by running a double thread of white silkotine in and out of thesmesh, sop ping at intervals, where dot is made by whipping over a hard knot until it work is so easy a child may do it. The space down the front is darned with lines that run down, then turn around and run up again. The cost of the waist was:
 yard of net 2H yards wide. .e. $.5o 7 yards lace edge at 10 cents yard. 70 spool of silkotine. .......-..... .o5 Hooks and eyes. ................... .o2 Thread ............. ......... -OI
 7. -
 Total. .......... SIPS \ This net may be used with telling ef- feet in all manner of ways A. house dress of serpentine crepe, with the guimpe and sleeves of net, would be paying investment for the winters out fit for the debutante, or to, the trousseau of prospective bride. he cost would be: f.~;
 II yards of crepe. e..........$2.2o
 N yard of net. -25 I spool of silk. 10 SllkCllilS -oSZz
 Hooks and eyes. .o2E
 Total. l..............$26o Tba roI.eea nraccjrp
The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-10-15
s.ANE.AUTUMN .EDP- COAT

-. ,. E
 sian design. The vest may be pasted or buttoned in, and if your last years coat has shrunken in the ,unaccountable way coats sometimes have of shrinking. you will fnd5sit "a vety.9present help in time, of strouble,"s r. ssg ~ What Is Required
 The materials required for such a suit will be: p.,s
 For theb coat :i< ~ 4 yards of serge .36 inches wide . $2oo yards of Dresden cretonne for lin-
 ing 1.2S Silk thread. d................... 10 SotloH ..-..... -oo Hooks and eyes. .O5 Accessories ..-...-...-..... 100 For the skirt: oH yards serge. ...................$3 .$3.25
 Total, ... .$7.zo
Bryan daily eagle and pilot. [volume] (Bryan, Tex.) 1909-1918, 1909-11-04
that Kind. the latter continues: !:

that kind. the latter continues:
President Taft knows as well as
do that socialism is sweeping this
country like a prairie fire and tina,
there Is an army OF nearly 100000 ban
ded together. true TO organization
which their leaders have made and
that those men are thirsting for an
opportunity TO come into collision with
the federal army, That Is one reason
why Taft and Roosevelt are eager to
increase the number OF federal troops.
The trusts are running up the ex-
pense Of living so enormously that
furious passions are raging In the
hearts OF millions"
The letter OF Mr.. Watson was In re-
ply TO one written him by Attorney
General Hart regarding an editorial
which appeared In the Jeffersonian.
Mr.. watson's paper attacking the at
titude OF the attorney general In ad-
vising Judge Fite OF the Dade county
superior court to honor a writ OF he
beas corpus issued by the federal
court here in the Stanley case.
Bryan daily eagle and pilot. [volume] (Bryan, Tex.) 1909-1918, 1909-11-04

was greater than September and the
largest business done In any one
month since the company came to
Bryan. Freight business Is equally
heavy and up to November LIST. the !.
A @. n. had shipped more cotton by
so bales than up TO that date last year.
As Mr.. Hewitt says the express and
freight business handled by the rail-
roads Is good index TO the volume
Of business done by town or city and
In this instance II shows that Bryan's
is gorwIng and expanding all the time.
Bryan daily eagle and pilot. [volume] (Bryan, Tex.) 1909-1918, 1909-11-04
BIC |O|L FIND
MADE NEAR AUSTIN
Sixty Feet Of Fluid 10 In Well Only
$50 Feet Deep.


Special to the iasie.
Austin. Texas. Nov. 4.-sixty feet Of
oil In a well l5o feet deep was discov-
cred near Sprinkle. about mile north
OF here. which caused considerable ex.
citement in the city.
John w. Horsby. land commissioner
OF the Kirby Lumber Company. and X.
Z. Brooks OF Houston. well known oil
men. have been here on mysterious
errand. and Il was reported yesterday
they have secured leases on 1000 acres
OF land in the vicinity OF Sprinkle,
where oil has been discovered. The
well In which the oil was found Is
situated on a small tract Of land own
ed by an Austin blacksmith named
Thompson, who was boring for water
when he struck oil. A number OF wells
are to be sunk Immediately.
Bryan daily eagle and pilot. [volume] (Bryan, Tex.) 1909-1918, 1909-11-04
FEDERAL AND sJArE COURTS.
he SAYS, ARE BOUND TO MIX.
HATRED IS CROWNS
usurpation Of Power and Things De.
cIared to BE Making Socialists
BY Thousands.

special TO the Eagle.
Atlanta, Nov. 4.--Asserting that an
armed clash between federal and
states courts has got to come sooner
or later" Thomas Watson. several
times the populist nominee for presi-
dent OF the United States. In letter
TO state Attorney General Hart advo-
Gates armed resistance on the part Of
the state authorities in resisting writ
OF habeas corpus issued by a federal
court. In the letter OF Mr.. Watson he
says In part;
The people are considerably wrought
up against federal judges. There Is
more profound hatred OF the federal
judiciary. especially the lower courts.
than any institution in America.
Burlesquing the idea that federal
troops would be sent TO enforce the
orders OF federal court In case of
Bryan daily eagle and pilot. [volume] (Bryan, Tex.) 1909-1918, 1909-11-04
CHAMPIONSHIP BALE.
Bryan Lays scIsi~'so Record Breaking
Bale 81 Cotton For Texas.

The highest priced bale OF cotton
sold in Bryan since the two or three
years following the Civil war. was sold
yesterday afternoon. II was record
breaker and by II Bryan claims the
championship hale Of cotton OF Texas.
II weighed TO pounds and brought
IA Ia cents. The cotton and the seed
netted the owner s1ls.62.
II was raised by Sando Rebalo. an
Italian farmer living near Bryan and
was sold by ]. NJ. Saladiner.
The big price being paid for cotton.
and in fact that has been paid for II
all through the season. has helped
the farmers out wonderfully. and II
is the opinion OF those ina position to
know. that the county IL In a better
condition than Il was at this time last
year.
A few bales OF top crop" Is coming
In and Il Is purely and simply ''lagn-
iappe" and Is highly appreciated by
the farmers.