The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1909-08-14
Ell Paso. Tex. August 5.


Say what YOU please, there. is only
one first time, and repetition finds
the keen edge of sensation Just trl1Ie
duued This is particularly true
about travelling on the desert, at least
by rail- In caravan it may be differ
ent and the zest may not soon be
lost. Our first day on the desert, was
wonderful, as it always 1s-it exerteo
all of its fascination of gloomygrand-
eur. aroused as always amazement
and awe at it's possibilities.
But the desert of New Mexico
through which the main line OF the
Santa Fe passes as far as Albuquer-
que is not the desert through Wnich
we Travelled today on the branch line
to FL Paso. 1t offers an 1nIlnlte va
riety of scene and circumstance anu
surrounding with a constantly snl1t-
ing and varying horizon line Mucn
of it can no longer be called desert.
The waste has been reclaimed FOR
miles in the vicinity OF Las vegas are
sections fenced with tiny one-room
cabins in the corners, little patch
of land ploughed and sometimes
planted There are many cattle ana
horses and sheep and goats on the
pIateaux and the plains. There is some
Irrigation, but dry-farmtng is being
tried extensively for there is con-
siderable rainfall and this season IN
particular. has been blessed with
much moisture 1t rained all day yes
4erday. a gentle shower that maze
travelling delightful.
Corn Dance in Progress.
When we dropped into the Rio
Grande valley east OF AlpuQuerqIUe
our desert became a paradise. we
were in the Pueblo reservation ana
passed a chain of cultivated valleys
where with irrigation, the rlcn son
responds astonfshingly to the prlmitiye
agricultural art of the Indians. F1elds
nf alfalfa of kaffir corn (rid1culousIy
small and runty looking to Kansas
eyes), of rye and other grain, saroens
and orchards march IN a rlcn Pl 49,
sion through this valley dotted with
the little Indian villages, each with It's
cross-tipped mission At san Domlh-
go the corn dance was IN progress
and from the train we couLo see lno
crowds of people on the housetops TO
sziew the ceremony and could hear the
eorn-toms and the echoes or the "eITo
chant of the dancers. 1t was sag
day in the reservation, and we passeu
a constant procession OF INDIANS gdliy
dressed. on horseback, afoot ana III
wagons all the way to Albuquerque.
This indian reservation of the Rlo
Crande valley looks like WonoerduI
land. and if 1t is ever opened Aol
rett1eroent to the whites, don't fail TO
get yours. It is only half-tarmeu ~
the indian whose ploughs ana thr esn-
ing machines and other implements
and methods are or the most siI III
and primitive order. 1t is wonderIuIy
fertile and in contrast with the Steep
ing desert which surrounds the cur
tivated portions, whose thirst mas Dee1
quenched, 1t looks IKE inc "
land indeed.
We were the most cheerful, con-
tented optimistic party in the WorIo
ali the way to Albuquerque. There we
met Mr.. Charles H Gaunt, a9Slst al
general manager of the Santa Fe' anu
Mrs Gaunt who is accompanying MIN
on a trip over the road, and IN the
course of conversation ChaFt,e
Gaunt took occasion to praise rtlv
Pullman conductor at whose mercy
we had been thus far Mr.. Gaunl hda
taken the conductors name anu
wanted to tell some Pullman Superlh-
tendent what good enploye ne ~ W.
how intelligent, courteous ana opHe
Inc ssF4e ought to have promotlon'
said Mr.. Gaunt fumbling in his pock-
cts for the employees name NOW
this" said Mr.. Gaunt, rs an uI u aoI.al
circumstance we have many com
nlaints but few compliments. Peopie |
don't generally take the troupIe 10
praise or boost a good employe' al
though they never ta1I 10 kn1ch h ooI4
one ON my desk were perhaps nan
a dozen complaints on Pullman con
ductors on our lines. shall take
Measure in forwarding to the PuH-
man company a good word Tor one
of these men,.
Portable. it is easy to be optli-llstic
and at the Elvarade at A1buquerque
one is always Wen Ieu an - -
ehle. No matter how often you see IT,
4ofs hotel is always delightful Inc
Harvey system has not yet sur pas9eu
II TO nv opinion, in spite OF the Alol
advantageous surroundings ot SonlS -
+be other hotels and do not tnlhK II
could be surpassed, for in it's own way
II is perfect. The long low. gray IVY
draped walls of its quaint plctureSque
architecture, the astounding sreenneSs
IF IFS velvety courts, the fat pigeons
rircling around it's towers or drinking
at the splashing fountain, the COM
mercialized Indians, delloera1ey Npue
none the less for that) picturesque
who sell their wares on the statlon
,,Iatforrn the beautiful curio and safes
ICONS. the courtesy and the intelll-
gence of the service, make up an at
mosphere which is irreslsuple. anu
then there is the delicious. praclng
ozone. the blue sky, the close brilliant
starsi We spent four or 1--WE hours
in this enchanting place whle we
waited for the E Paso tram ana II
was a pleasant break in the journey;
TIC night was so cool that we found
pur coats comfortable
when the Pessimist Appears.
Now the desert today has been
something different. We are not
grumbling. please, but 1t was dlfter-
emit We left Albuquerque some rev
hours late, and when we woke up,
this morning. found ourselves still far
from the end of the second stage or
trip. AT the DreahIdSI SIdllOA q
man voiced the general pessimism OF
the crowd as Enthusiastically as
Charlie Gaunt had the night before
expressed our optimism and content.
There was a ruch at the lunch counter
where the order to feed the train had
come unexpectedly. and some conse-
quent delay in service. They'll never
hear me-" said His Travellets who
was rapping on the counter vigorous
w. land when they do. they won't
paw any attention to me. If they
sha,1ld take nv order. they wouldn't