The Daily Missoulian., 1909-01-03


Lent Into these six weeks are
crowded in rapid succession some
of the most important social
events of the winter: for by
the beginning of Lent. of course
everybody who makes the smailest
pretention to peing of the social eject
is established under expensive SCUM
ern sunshine, not to return 10 the
bleak north until, with Easter, spring
sartorial considerations revive inter-
est in the metropolis.
The good old Knickerbocker custom
Of offering ones neighbors good cheer
at the years opening-a custom Whlch
unfortunately fell into such disrepute
in the late eighties that chllllhs
card basket on the doorbell greeted all
would-be purveyors of friendly greet
inrs-has been revived again in the
form Of hospitable dinners, at-hones
and New Year dances for the younger
folk.
Tn the social seventies the women
fo,k OF the Knickerbocker household
began preparation early in the day.
The groaning board was set out at an
hour when modern Manhattanltes are
still sleeping off the weariment en-
tailed by seeing the old year out; ana
the ladies of the family, with smilaX
In their hair, were busily receiving
the first of the New Year callers by
noon.
Costumes For CandIeIight Called For
In those less sophisticated days the
window shades were sent cheerlly u
tho ton and the trying midday sun
shine streamed over the occasion.
Now the New Year festivity, even II
It begins before sundown, is softly ana
becomingly suffused With shaded ar'i-
6cial lights, and evening toilettes OF
the dainty. pastel shaded afternoon
recention costumes are the rule
The vogue for collarless effects
u.kes II hard to distinguish be-
tween the costume manifestly for aft
ernoon wear and the distinctively
evening toilette Many of the less Tor
NAL frocks for theater and restaurah'
wear. not coming at all under the
head Of evening costumes, snow the
little Dutch or rounded empire cor
sage, which, when a prettily rounded
throat Is displayed, proves most De-
coming. The classic gown, of course
whether for full or demitoilette wear
will be cut to show the lines of the
throat, With the lovely lines of th'
genuine classic draperies, of course
a conventional boned "choker' coilal
would be an absurdity. Women whc
cannot stand the rather severe effec
Of the barred throat wear high strand
collars of pearls or band or biacf
velvet tied high about the throat, lik'
the black ribbon neckband in Gains
borough portrait of Mrs. Siddons.
Nothing as lovely as this years cos
tune effect has been seen In many
season. Nothing as near to the Greer
ideal Of beauty of line and color ha
been approached in democratic Amer
lea outside of mural paintings ant
proscenium arches.
''Be classic" exhorts Dame Fashion
as though art and not novelty ha
ever been the aim of her frivolou
heart, land If you can't be classic
why, be as classic as you can" Il
any event, adopt the flowing, clingin
draperies, the revealing lines ot shoul
der and of limb, and bind up your hal
with a Greek fillet.
Much Of the beauty of tine new clas
sic gowns is owing to the shimmerin
fabrics employed this year Satin
the evening fabric par excellence, an
almost every frock that sweens acr os
the carriage entrance Of the orer
house on society nights" Is of sati
in white OF one OF the pastel tints c
'he season.
Tho Fluffy Woman Is No More.
Some Of the wiseacres are bus
prophesying that by this time ne,
year we shall all be wearing flounce
skirts. Who knows what next yes
may bring forth? Just now it Is Gel
tain that not the vestige of a flounc
or even so much as a modest ruff
appears anywhere on fashions hor
zon. The Importance of 1.-The line" ha
been hoisted to such a pinnacle tht
frills have been ruthlessly Topped ava
for it's achievement.
The new satins, fabrics which be-
express the flowing lines Of the ne