davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23

led up to it. have been persistently rails
ing the prices for several seasons past I'M
til the climax must have been reached-or
at least one prayS this may be SO. Never
when zone was young We're forty ana
fifty dollars tagged by any miliner.
however daring, on a simple felt toque
trimmed with velvet and wings. Yet such
hats and such prices are seen on every
side and have ceased to cause remark
beside the picture affairs sailing under
hundred and even thousand dollar prices.
When it comes to ostrich plumes one is
willing to pay bit more, for these beau
tiful trimmings may be used again and
again and be made to do duty through
several seasons. The aigrettes, however,
are very perishable. They are brittle and
snap off at the end if crushed in the
least degree and a hard wind soon plays
havoc with a costly aigrette.
Far more fashionable now than the will
low plumes which have held the center
of the field for several seasons by reason
of their beauty and grace are the clipped
ostrich feathers which have not parti-
Gle Of curl, but whose fiues are so long
and thick that the plumes are quite as
handsome as the willow sort. Very ex-
elusive milliners are using these clipped
ostrich feathers entirely. and the new
colors are exquistely soft and rich, es-
pecially by gasliSht.
A very graceful hat with ostrich trim
ming is shown, a model with ostrich trim
ming being a wise choice for the woman
who cannot afford many handsome hats.
The plurnes are particularly rich, and
after the shape has gone out Of style
which even these graceful shapes do In
time-the plumes may be used again and
again. The model shown is a maybe. or
black and white effect, the mass of snowy
feathers tumbling most effectively over
the black satin hat. This is a Cavalier
type, with brim sharply bent up at one
side; though the whole hat sits we'll
down over head and hair. giving the eff
feet of smaller shape than this really is.
The efforts which some of the French
milliners have made to reduce the size of
millinery have been rewarded at last. for
most of the winter styles are much more
past. Large hatS-tremendOuSly large hats
are seen, it is quite true, but the gen.
eral trend is to smaller shapes of chic,
jaunty type not possible In the very large
picture styles.
The tricorne and marquise shapes have
ridden in on the crest of this smaller
hat wave, and these da shing shapes bid
fair to be close rivals of the ubiquitous
turban for general street wear There is
something charmingly youthful about the
been worn by schoolgirls. and in straw
shapes by the younger women for horse
back riding The winter tricornes are of
beaver and Of MORE silk and velvet over
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23
0& n n

10 the ancient Drulolcai hotioh' i"'
the last day of summer. and the name
Sambain's night, means summers END
On this night the fairies troop out from
their haunts and have a parting dance
with the witches. gnomes and banshees.
Everybody who has been In Ireland on
Sambain's night knows very well that AT
midnight the wind rises and hoWls 1or-
lornly through the trees and over 'he
housetops: and Irish little folk are quite
positive that this dismal wailing is not
the wind at all. but the lament of the
fairies at being banished from their be-
loved dells and moorlands for six months
until May day.
No parties seem to he quite so much
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23
Halloween Dainties.
Chestnut Notions.

Shell about twenty-five large chestnuts,
boil them in water with a little salt,
pound them well, then stir the paste into
two ounces of melted fresh butter, add
some powdered sugar and some fiavoring,
either vanilla or lemon; let this mixture
cool, then press it through a large-holed
sieve, ana pie 1t high on a dish; over TINS
put some well whipped cream. This is
delicious dish.
Lemon Sponge.
Soak one ounce of gelatin in one pint
of water for twenty minutes; add the
rind and juice of two lemons and half
pound OIL castor sugar. Simmer gently
for half an hour. Strain into large bowl
and put it into a cool place. When the
mixture is nearly cold, stir in the whites
of two eggs, beaten to a firm froth. Whisk
brlSkly IOr fifteen minutes. pour into
Norfolk Dumpiings.
Take one pound -four, three teaspoon
fuls baking powder, three ounces butter
and plenty of currants. Rub the butter
into the flour, mix with little water
into dough, then work with the hand
into dumplings, and boil twenty minutes.
Dessert currants may be swelled in
warm water for a few hours and eaten
raw with these dumplings.>
Currant Pudding.
One pound of currants, bread crumbs
and milk. Chop or mince the currants,
butter a deep dish and put in alternate
layers of bread crumbs and layers Of cur
rants "a few sharp apples sliced may
be added). Pour the milk Tor milk and
water), over the whole. and bake in a
quick oven.
Rock Cakes.
Quarter of a pound Of butter, half a
teaspoonful of baking powder. one-half
pound -four, one-half pound currants. two
ounces moist sugar, one egg (optionaD
and half gill milk. Put the butter into
a basin with the baking powder. Beat the
butter till it Is quite in a cream and work
in gradually the flour. Add the cur
rants, the sugar, the mixed peel Ginely
cut, the rind of lemon (grated). Beat
the egg Gf one be used). and mix with
the milk and stir these into the mixture
very stinly; place an inch and a half
apart on a Toured baking sheet in little
knobs about the size of walnut and
bake in q brisk oven.
curious sleeve is one which has no
fullness at the shoulders. Instead the ex-
ira material is put into tiny darts, which
are carefully fitted about the armhole,
the material being cut away underneath.
Parasols are still being carried; some
of the smarteSt for late fall use are of
black tulle.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23

The new round and round aisrettes are
horribly expensive, $4,000 and 100000 be-
ing not at all exorbitant prices to pay for
them. These whirling aigrettes, having a
look of the weird whiring symbols in
Vedder's ininlitable drawings Of the Ru-
balat are called the Omar Khayyam
aigrettes. and often the weird round and
round effect is accentuated by chiffon
whirling in the same direction. Most of
the prices asked for the new hats are
frightful and the average woman turns
hopelessly from the staggering amounts
asked for the simplest street chapeaux.
1t seems as though the milliners. having
found that women will pay, If they are
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23

in ChapeauX showing the earmarkS OF
various style eras past departed home
ward with toques and turbans Of various
degrees of audacity smashed down over
the head and hair. Fortunately for the
out-of-town folk-and for the metropoli-
tan shopkeepers as well-the celebration
came just at the sartorial psychological
moment when new winter clothes were an
imminent necessity, and great thereof was
the profit of both shopkeeper and Sc
Journer, though it is doubtful if provincial
milliners and modistes looked upon the
occasion in as optimistic manner
There is no doubt that the turban is
here to stay. All Russian effects are at
high tide of favor and the huge eossack
and hussar hats with their shirred and
puffed velvet crowns continue to be the
favorites for street wear and are not
being discarded. as some of the astute
niliners predicted they would be after
the first turban furore subsidized.
For one thing. the turbans, coming far
over the face and hair as they do. have
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23
Latest in Pincushi0nS.

JUNGLE lions, said to be the replicas
J of some that our gallant national nim-
rod has slain in Africa, are now being
sold for my lady's dressing table, the idea
being to stick the king Of beasts tawny
plush hide full Of pins. The lions have
glorious names and stand on sturdy legs
in an aggressive attitude. and are splen-
did representations of the clever beast
shown in the newspapers over the cap
ton, "Flashlight picture taken of the
lion killed by Roosevelt" One feels sure
not many lions would be SO obliging as to
stand for a f1ashlight photograph before
being shot.
A novelty is hat made almost entirely
Of wings The brim is formed of them
and it is arranged to overlap, with the
tips pointing upward and the crown en-
circled with wreath of tiny pinions.
Trimmings are now being used under
gauzes as much as over them.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23
Metal Purses.

ORNAMENTAL metal purses and card
~ cases are very popular at present
In the mesh purses German silver Is
employed and these are equipped with
silver "foXtail'' neck chains. Sterling sill
yer is used in the plain coin cases, the
covers being engraved to suit the pur-
chaser. Raffia purses of circular shape
have German silver center set with
single semi-precious stone, eight-inch Ger
man silver frames and rope handles.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23

YER in Ireland
Halloween, or Sam
bain's night, is a
festival of mourn
ing rather than jol-
lity; for on this
evening the fairies
are said to depart
from the woods and
moorlands, not to
return until anoth-
er summer. Hal
loween. according
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23

den favors over the edges of the basket.
where they form a fringe finished by little
apples or yellow crepe paper pumpkins.
The 1agot brooms may be easily made
from ordinary twlgs and hobgoblins and
black cats cut from paper may nestle in
the branches.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23

Unless one jumps over a broomstick at
least fifteen inches from the floor on
this fateful night, bad luck Will surely
follow for year. A broomstick placed
across two chairs should be set out at the
beginning of the evening and after every
body has jumped over-or tried to-the
company will be well acquainted ana
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23

IFTER the Hudson
Fulton celebration
was over the coun-
try districts must
have been swamp
ed with turbans,
for it seemed that
in every shop wom-
EN- were trying on
and purchasing
hats of this type.
and those who
came to New York
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23

aigrette in creamy yellow shades makes
a strikingly beautiful contrast with the
blue velvet of the hat itself.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23

shaped frames. under and upper brim
being often in contrasting colorings. Tan
or tilleul the mustard shade-and
a rich blue are the favorite color combi-
nation and usually the trcorne trim
ming is very simple. consisting OF a me-
tallic ornament. cockade or two sharp
quilts thrust through cabochon OF pleat-
ed velvet.
The maruuise is quite as Frenchified as
the tr,corne, but is not so universally be-
coming as 1t turns back sharply from
the face and is bit trying to any but
beauty a very smart marquise hat is
illustrated. and this hat is so placed on
the head that the turned-back front
comes a wee bit to one side. softening the
harsh line trifie. En- PEASANT, of course,
all the winter hats may be put on any
way one likes, either in the way the mil
liner indicates or quite hind side before
Trimmings are as often directly In the
back as in front. and. as everybody
knows, some shapes are turned up at the
right side, others at the left.
To return to the marquise model This
smart and youthful hat is OF gray beaver
with wide facing of gray-blue plush.
the fan cochades being of silk in the same
shade. From each of the cockades a fluffy
Sray-blue ostrich tip sweeps backward.
Rusty looking gold and silver seem to
be all the rage now, and in many of the
most exclusive milliners' windows are dis
played in the solitary glory that marks
the Partisan creation velvet hats trimmed
with gold lace which might we'll have
been saved over from the actual Louis
XIV period. SO furnished does 1T appear.
Not only the hats but the frocks that
come from Paris show these furnished
trimmings, which seem to be the proper
thing, and certainly accord appropriately
with the ''triste' and morbid coorS
which are the fad just now.
Huge bows of gold lace, or of gold net
yelled with black chiffon, seen on
show trimmings of this rusty-looking lace.
Brown, by the way, is the coming color.
Let the observant woman keep her eye
on browns. Redfern, Cabot and Cheruit
have all brought out stunning brown cos
TUNES lately, chiffon and chenille en-
broidered crepe being combined with
skunk mink and other brown furs, and
to match these creations there We're pic
turesuues hats trimmed with the new-old
rusty lace and plumes in tawny mustard
and bronze colorings.
Brown marabou turbans for theater
wear are matched by huge muffs also of
the marabou combined with brown vel
vet shirred over heavy cords. In fact,
this fad of hats matched by velvet and
chiffon muffs is craze at present, and
all the smart millinery openings have
made features of hats, scarfs and huge,
soft muffs of matching material
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23
GeorSette Model ~
naSSed with PlumeS

a iaunty, youthful look for another thins-
they are easy and comfortable to wear III
windy weather under a veil; and. thirdly,
there is trig smartness about them
which is pleasing after the wide-brlmlned
styles of the summer. The draped tur-
bans are easy to make at home and. pro-
vided plenty of rich material is at hand,
almost any woman may evolve very
satisfactory turban to match her tailored
suit The easiest way to make such
hat is to drape a big piece of rich colored
velvet over the crown, using long strip
of fur on the narrow brim, cabochon
or a pert pleated bow of some metallic
ribbon being the only trimming. If one
desires-and cares to spend the extra
money-a dropping feather may be placed
at one side. an aigrette sweep away
toward the back.
Two turban styles are illustrated one
the Russian turban. with crown rising
straight up from the wide brim, and the
other d Henri " type, with narrow
mushroom brim and puffed crown shirred
over cords. In the Henri " the hrim is
sometimes sharply rolled up at one side
against the velvet crown, and the turban
is even more jaunty and dashing worn in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23

Velvets, beavers and silks-and particu-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-10-23

For one thing. the turbans, coming far
YER the face and hair as they do, have
The Morning examiner. [volume] (Ogden, Utah) 1904-1910, 1909-04-11

modern times. There has been what has
been cleVcrly called an overdose OF lux
Iury,' which rcpcls, rather than attracts.
or satisfies. or plcases. 1t Is 10 be hoped
|tl1at the time is approaching, or is really
close at hand. when a reaction will bring
about a recognition that simplicity is
dignihed. wcll-brcd, and makes for true
happiness In life People arc beginning
to realize that lavish display IS vulgar.
Even the most obtusc people sec that
there is something false about it. some
thing wrong about the snowy cxtrava-
gancc which overfeedS guests. or has too
many flowers on a dinner table Even
the obtuse people discover that there is
something missing from that sort OF en-
tcrtainIng. and the something missing is
the true spirit OF hospitality.
| A hostess is not wcll-brcd or hospita-
Ible who grccts a guest negligently or
with scant notice. looks over her guests
shoulder for the next arrival, and implies
/ by her manner that she wishes every
ono to hasten on To see The costlincss OF
her house OF the sumptuous feast which
| IS offered
To be truly hoSpitable is to be cordial
\ TO all who cross our threshold, to be
Incighborly. soeiablc, receiving our
friends III heartfelt kindness. not looking
for praise, or admiration or rewards;
and always providing our best, although
our best may be very simple.
1t IS mistake to strain after effect, or
to strive TO find something very novel.
very unusual, very different from others.
or something by which to excel our
ncighbor who entertained last week.
The search for the novel is strain
on hostess, and unless she has plenty
of executive ability, originality and cx-
lpcricncc it is never advisable to attempt
innovations.
When inviting friends to ones house
II Is naturally 10 be supposed that it i,
! for their pleasure No effort should be
spared which may contribute TO their en-
| Joymcnt A warm welcome, a kindly
greeting manner which shows that a
hostess is sincerely glad to see her guests
these arc some OF the accomplish
mentS that hostess should try to
learn She may give the simplest little
luncheon, the quietcst little dinner, a
card-party with the most Inexpensive
prizes, or she may do nothing more than
invite a few friends in the afternoon for
a cup OF tea. and brew it and serve IL
herself, but if she is gracious. welcoming,
winning in her manner. showing that
She Is fully compensated for any trouble
she has taken by the pleasure of having
her friends under her roof, they Will
enter into her spirit OF good humor.
There will be a subtle influence which
will make them happy and at case.
Nothing IS more enjoyable than a visit
at the house OF a popular hostess, who
is at home informally always on a Ger
tam afternoon in the season, where
guests arrive two or three at time.
and where one is sure TO meet friends
or perhaps some very interesting visit
ing stranger, have pleasant chat and
enjoy the cup that cheers
The Morning examiner. [volume] (Ogden, Utah) 1904-1910, 1909-04-11

dice against the palpably mlchlne-madc
laceS. so that between these Two
conditions many lovers of beauti-
ful laccs were prohibited from owning
them We all feel grateful to the ingc-
nuity that thought way out OF tho diff
Guilty by giving us machine-woyen brads,
closely copying all the character OF the
handmade and in this way providing 10
the workers hand the very largest per
centagc of the work already done. The
handmade stitches that by holding the
braid-shapcs produce the design consti-
tutc a relatively small portion of the
completed piece, but VIC have, when
completed what may be trulhfully
called handmade lace at most moderate
cost
The collar and cuff set shown here IS a
particularly pretty design in Brugcs lace
The filling stitches may be readily copied
from the illustration. For the more sol
idly filled spaces point Tuscan is used.
and in the others finely worked button
holed bars with picots at their centres
Point Tuscan IS worked back and forth
across the space and consists of two
buttonhole stitches, with a short loop of
thread left between, taken into each of
the loops OF the preceding row.
The all-lace waist is striking exam
The Morning examiner. [volume] (Ogden, Utah) 1904-1910, 1909-04-11
Reducing the Rips-Simp9e DfTec-
tions to Effect Marked lmpF0ve-
ment i'm the Figure

arc due to a general condition OF super
huous flesh. it would be vain TO attempt
hip reduction alone. the whole matter
should be regulated by diet and exercise.
| do not believe the person exists who
can not reduce flesh by proper dieting
and exercise Most people who are too
stout either eat too much. or cat the
wrong kinds OF food. or exercise too lit
tie. 1t Is unfortunate that the tendency
as one advances III life is TO a deposit
of flesh about the waist abdomen and
hips, which tends to destroy bodily SYM
mctry This is due in great part 10
the lack OF exercise OF these muscles OF
the body. 10 4 wrong posture III sitting
and the tendency as one grows older 10
cal more food than Is necessary. ! he
remedy. then after regulating the diet
is I'm the exercise OF these muscles, which
become overchargcd with fat owing TO
their Incidence. have often gwen the
series OF exercises necessary TO accom-
plish ii, but Will repeat them here for
The bcucht of my readers. Lie Mat
on the back upon the floor and, with the
knees and feet together, raise the legs
At right angles TO the body Next. bend
the knees. assuming a sitting posture.
bringing the feet closely to the body
then Acx the knees up on the body itself,
doubling tho legs As closely together as
possible upon the body. Try this first
with ono leg and then with the other.
and then both together.
Another series OF exercises consists in
standing as erect ss possible, with hands
hanging loosely al the sides and the
palms inward then slow " bend the body
at the hip joints, allowing the arms 10
swing forward, and, while keeping the
knees stiff. try to touch the floor with
the finger tips. After that throw tho
body back with the arms and hands up
over the head, reaching as far back j.
The Morning examiner. [volume] (Ogden, Utah) 1904-1910, 1909-04-11

css braldS arc provided with line OF
thread ut one edge, by which they may
be drawn mp into the curves OF the pat
tern, doing away with the whipping OF
the edges that IS no inconsidcrablc part
OF the work when the braids do not
draw A large portion of the design is
composed of circles within circles, and
fagoting stitch is used 10 connect all
these parallel edges. In the irregular
spaces. cross-threadS arc disposed to fill
in the spaces 10 the best advantage, then
the thread is twisted back on the first
threads Wherever the space is large
enough to permit, 4 wheel or roscttc is
worked AZ the intersection OF the longest
crossing
The collar with attached yoke is rather
novel. as PLAIN, fine tspc-braid is used to
nil in the deep, oval scallopS formed by
the Tranon braid. The tapc-braid is
laid in straight lines that cross each
other, and III each open space wheel is
worked on the threads that cross from
The Morning examiner. [volume] (Ogden, Utah) 1904-1910, 1909-04-11
Appesizing Dishes and .sovg To
Elake Them
JELLIEp EGGS

JELLIEp EGGS
Fill empty egg shells with blanc
mango, and when chilled break off the
from one-half box OF granulated gela-
tine soaked IN onc-iourth pint OF cold
water until softened; add one-half pint
boiilng water, onc-half pint Of sugar.
STIR until gclatinc is dissolved then add
onc-half pint orange Juice and the juice
of one large lemon. Strain through 4
cloth into egg cups or other individual
molds until one-half full and then chill ,
then, with a teaspoon heated 1T hot
water, form I cavity in the centre Of
The Morning examiner. [volume] (Ogden, Utah) 1904-1910, 1909-04-11

but there arc times when it must be
changed This is true where there are
children or illness In either case the
sensible thing 20 do Is 10 consider winch
things are absolutely imperative, and
then plan for the most efficient methods
The resi- period ShoRid Gi5eGyS be planned
for If any time remains for extras they
might be given occasionally as treats
The houSckeeper should consider her
assets and use them to the best adyan
tagc One valuable asset in the case of
young children is good habits. As soon
as child begins to do anything he should
be taught at once how TO do 1t. Children
need not play over the entire house; they
much prefer ono particular room or part
OF room. They are perfectly willing
to put their toys away when through
playing, v Taught and il given a closet
or box for the purpose Many mother
slaves and 7uds!cs iime BY tracking after
children because She has not taken pans
to tram them to consideration and un-
The Morning examiner. [volume] (Ogden, Utah) 1904-1910, 1909-04-11

sclhshness. or course they forget. but
not all the time Household duties can
be planned to 6t into the waking and
sleeping hours OF children, even though
the programme seems unconventional.
1t is your task 10 manage your house
well, and you must use the plan that
seems best TO you.
Illness means rctrenchmcnt along all
the usual lines Rooms should be cleared
OF all articles requiring unusual atten-
ton or likely to cause trouble TO stran-
gers or careless helpers. Those parts OF
the house not in general use might be
closed The laundry work OF the pa
tent should be attended to promptly I;
that OF the family should be lcsscned 1t
is sensible to substitute paper napkins
and clean white oil-cloth for The reg
ular table linen if one Is overwhelmed
with work and lack OF help. The SIM
plcst and mo= rour!shiYg food should
he prepared or ihc family. and nj such
times the 6sc!ess cooker IS Invaluable