New-York tribune., 1909-05-23

few years ago chiIdren's fashion houses were DIFF
fcult to find. Then picture in the salon
Motherhood" by Caro-Delvaille, created such
widespread interest. that mothers with their own
babies instead of pet animals became the fashioh'
Ckudrens houses sprang up, and groWn-up houses
took q children's department.
The craze for sports and foreign travel has Gre
ated many fashions in Paris Fifteen years ago
the environs were practically the limits OF Partisan
outings Now all Paris travels far and often
and comes home with new needs and increased
extravaganza. New Industries have originated
from the countless accessories of travel and the
new needs arising out Of new experiences. The
magic Of machinery and the ease OF communication
have cheapened ready made productions and mace
them more and more Individual and artistic Nis
itors are content with copies and repetiuons. even
rnonotony: but artist creators continually strive for
the personal note. and continually spurred on
by an exclusive class of patrons avid for change.
not TO say quite daft for the Hence q con-
slant renewal Of hitherto stable fashions. An
American miIIionairess asks for instance. Il dia-
dem OF precious stones. the value Of kings ran
SON. is quite new. the present seasons Inspiration.
when Il would require years 70 match the stones and
make the crown after the design had been made
In Paris there are great houses and small houses
and near greats" these last the qui viye 10
acquire q glittering semblance of superiority. No
where the world IS training Of such value as in
selecting fashions in Paris. but the merest tyro IS
absolutely safe in the hands of the true smallest
IS
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There could be no greater mistake than TO ignore
or despise a house for its isolation apparent
Importance II may be the ready aid OF a great
house in emergency And one should not expect
effusive reception without proper presentation
Once rapport a woman may place herself with
confidence under delicate instruction. II she IS
novice in fashion, or. If she shows sufficient
aesthetic development, she may count upon the
house for collaboration and economy we'll as
on the most interested friends Carriage hire is
so moderate, Of the house may easily
come TO her and choose the most appropriate
coloTs and styles for her setting; that is. If her
parlors Louis XIV, they would not attire her
for reception in a dress that would clash with
the period. The youngest apprentice is familiar
periods and the art of the different epochs
she absorbs from her infancy in the museums and
the street parades. Paris is a living school of
fashions. Fashion is its business, taken gaily,
to be sure, but with the seriousness of a great
comedian studying his part.
Travellers in Paris surprised at the absence
Of graded sizes, the models being OF a small size
only. These, however, are constructed on such
elastic principles that, If the effect Is harmonious
and becoming, they may be made to fit easily.
Sizes a waste. a risk, when in forty-eght
hours a great house supply an entire ward
robe in touch as it is 18th thousands of experts.
But Partisan would consider forty-eght hours for
anything important and characteristic dress
woeful loss of opportunity, realizing the artistic
development and pleasure afforded her by the
privilege of collaborating with masters Of the art
of dress, eager to enhance her beauty and pres
tige for the honor of their house well her
The fattery of special creations inspired by
ones own artistic possibilities wellngh If
resistible, and few Parsians would hurry through
so enchanting a prospect as setting the artistic
life-not machinery merely but life OF a great es-
tablishment-in effective motion.
The morning the early morning. is the best time
for an appointment with the chief-if you should
be so fortunate to arrest his special attention.
But the adept saleswoman whose chief pay will
be her commissions orders if she takes an in
terest. may do well for the master. The
most sympathetic modiste enters into a patrons
pans-modifed by his counsel-suave If she is
tractabe; peremptory if she is refractory. Cor
setieres. too, and coiffeurs, TO create body
and a new physiognomy. at the bidding of
the master. Training in department is deftly sug-
gested, if her carriage is Indifferent. a bad car
riage will ruin perfect costume. II illness
deformity be permanent. then she learns how !
kind and wise and truly artistic the master and !
his train of experts can be. Physicians are in |
touch, too, to correct with truly scien-
tific help the shoe the that an incurable
defect requires One of Theodore Banvles sketches
depicts the marriage of young beau with an old |
countess who was made young and fascinating |
for the marriage festivities that she was the belle
of the ball. with a fairylike charm of perfection |
of face and form
Each the captains of fashion accompIishes
these miracles Each irrespective of the others
develops his or her art, speciality school. One
is supreme in court dress trains and ceremonious
dress very autocrat. Another dresses a patron
up to her seventeenth century fan with fear Of
anachronism. for he has the finest collection of /
seventeenth century art in Paris. One again is a
OF lace. and his museum is one that
Queen Nab might envy. If a woman loves old Iaces !
or doubts the quality of new, he Will initiate her
INTO the mysteries. and make her robes and acces-