davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-26

were of chiffon laid IN crosswise folds
over the peacock satin, and were edged
at the bottom with passementerie and
fringe. Narrow shoulder folds of pea
cock velvet extended from the bib in
front to the girdle at the back, and the
space between these at the front and
back of the corsage was filled in with
black lace over white chiffon. The re-
naming portions of the bodice were OF
peacock satin covered with chiffon.
Another pretty gown was of bronze
crepe meteor. with a very simple tunfc
of champagne chiffon falling straight
and full from the girdle to within IL
inches of the hem. The tunfc dipped
slightly in the middle of the front. ris-
ing higher and being draped up at the
back, where the opening Of the tunic
occurred one side crossing and tapping
a few inches over the other at the belt.
Around this tunic about two inches
from its lower edge was a wide band
of silk embroidery in dull tones of
bronze. The shaped girdle. square cor
nered both front and back and mar
rover under the arms, was covered
with the same embroidery, and a mar
row band of 1t edged the low neck and
appeared in a square tab at the bottom
of the short sleeves. The sleeves We're
Of champagne chiffon over bronze silk
net, and the upper part of the bodice
of the bodice was of the bronze crepe
veiled with chiffon.
COPYING FROM THE OLD MASTERS
There is a fad in the gowning now
to copy some of the features of the
dress or hat from one of the old mas
ters.~ We hear of Botticelli gowns and
chemises, of Rubens and Vandyke and
Rembrandt hats Not only have the va
rious periods been studied in the search
for Inspiration. but individual exponents
of the styles of those periods have been
initiated. Of course, when an artist
paints a portrait and reproduces on can
vas his sitter's costume he is making
very valuable and circumstantial record
of the fashions in dress of his time
which future dress makers and the
atrical costumers will study with the
most devout interest. A number Of
years ago the designers simply varied
the styles by going from large to small
sleeves and back again, by changing
from full to narrow skirts and altering
other details of the fashions, without
reference to any historic precedent, but
this swinging in narrow circles became
monotonous and now they have made
the arc a very wide one, indeed. going
back in some cases several centuries
for their models.
REMODELING PASSEMENTERIES
The many beautiful bullions and pas
sementeries which are often sold by
the yard can often be rearranged in
such way as to give them an alto
gether different appearance. BY this
means the danger Of having them ex-
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-26
By Mildred NapierAnderson

- HE social season is now at its
height and the gowns which in
terest women most at present are
those for the various functions,
for dinner and for evening wear.
The fashion tendencies which at the
opening of the season appeared unset
tied and problematic have now crys-
tallized into positive forms, and there
is none of the gambling chance in buy
ing a gown that there was a couple
OF months ago. when one was not GER
tain as to what turn the fashions
might take. There is still a good part
OF the winter remaining before the
spring styles will make their appear
ance, and although there is of course
nothing that is absolutely new at this
time there are many novel and charm
ing interpretations and combinations of
. the accepted models which give con-
stant spice of variety to the midseason
fashions
Almost invariably the tunic is seen
IN one of its Developments on the
gowns for evening wear This pretty
fashion has quite monopolized the field,
and 1T is seen in an almost endless
variety OF different forms. The only
notable exception to this rule is in
the gowns OF the debutantes, which
are often made with the skirts falling
in straight, simple lines which are OBJ
tained by pleats or gatherings.
BLACK CHIFFON POPULAR
,S>e vogue Of black chiffon has been
most emphatic; in any assemblage OF
women in evening dress this winter
many will be seen wearing gowns on
which this material forms the over
drapery But so charming and varied
are the effects that there is no sug-
gestion of monotony. The black chif-
fon is often used over a foundation OF
gray, but here again variety is fur
nished by the touches of more vivid
color which are introduced on the
gown. Old gold in satin or crepe is
one of the favorite accenting colors,
and so is a coral shade called tulip.
and drake, one of the peacock blues,
and still another is passiaore, shade
OF mauve.
Black is not the only hue of which
the chiffon over drapery is made; to
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-26

actly like those of some other persoE.
will be avoided and they can also be
made to suit more perfectly the par
ticular gown for which they are in
tended. If two or more harmOnizinS
garnitures are bought and these are
separated into their component parts
and recombined in any desired shape
and style the most attractive OF made
to order effects can be obtained A
certain amount of artistic Judgment
will be needed in order to accomplish
this successfully. and some little
knowledge of embroidery, as stitches
in silks will be needed to reconnect the
different sections. When the exact shade
OF the gown can not be matched in
these trimmings a skein OF embrOi-
derry floss or sewing silk can generally
be found that will supply the precise
color. and this can be worked In here
and there.
FURS FOR DRESS OCCASIONS
1t Is unfortunate that the many
cheap limitations of ermine have made
that fur undesirable for use on the
hats. for conspicuous as IL is, Its imi-
tations have been even more so. But
among the garment furs the genuine
ermine still holds place for evening
wear which nothing else can MI. Many
of the coats and cloaks are made or
the fur In spotless white without even
one of the little black tails to break
the. smooth expanse. and others have
tails used like tassels on the edges OF
the shoulders and neck pieces or placed
at intervals on the border or certain
other portions Of the garment
For ceremoniOus afternoon wear
chinchilla outranks all other furS this
season and it is also one Of the most
popular of the furs used for toques or
turbans.
WEIGHT OF THE EVENING GOWNS
One of the things which is especially
noticeable about many Of the evening
gowns this winter is their surprising
heaviness. This IS the result OF the
use of metal or jet beads, or the heavy
metallic nets or Iaces with which they
are so often embellished- The ma
terials used for the gowns themselves
are unusually light and ilmy. but the
tunics and the trimmings OF passemen-
terie give them altogether an unusual
amount OF weight. Distributed as II IS
over all parts of the garment, this
heaviness is not too great FOR COM
fort when the gown is worn, but when
gathered together and held in the hands
it seems as if il would be almost too
much to be borne with equanimity.
Jet is a very heavy substance. ana
even in the form of tiny beads. whose
weight seems trifiing in itself. II be-
comes a different matter when guam
titles of them are used, and the aggre-
gate weight is often really astonish-
ing. The threads of metal also are
much heavier than one would naturally
suppose.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-26
From Ransohoff's
Front view OF coteIe satin
GrEFnoon gown.

interspersed throughout the pattern.
The color which has latterly had
more than usual share of favor for
evening wear is green. Several of
the shades of this color are especially
well liked for this purpose, such az
artichoke, reseda, and the lighter alb
sinthe. Very often these are combined
with black net or chiffon. or with gold
or silver lace.
The softened and modified shades
that are used in all of the colors this
year are almost universally becoming;
the woman who has always thought
that she could not wear pink finds
that the mellow peach pink harmonizes
perfectly with her coloring. and the
woman who has never dared to attempt
a gown of yellow discovers that old
gold or yellow with the bronze cast
suits her exceedingly well. It Is the
same with the blues and greens and
purples; only the crude shades of these
colors are trying; the dull, soft shades
are becoming to almost everyone.
SOME EVENING GOWNS
Among the most charming of the din.
ner gowns seen recently was one of
rather a light and very Iustrous shade
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-26

cover satin foundation with chiffon
of its own shade is a favorite method,
and among the other color combina-
tions that are well liked are pale pink
veiled with a light shade of blue,
gray over certain burnt tones of yell
low.
RICH AND PRETTY EMBROIDERY
The use of hand embroidery on all
of the elaborate gowns this season for
afternoon or evening wear is also one
of the most noticeable features of the
styles These embroideries are in very
bold and rich patterns, designed espe-
cially to fit the requirements and the
space in the case of each gown. The
use of allsthis embroidery has made it
necessary for the dress makers who
produce costumes of this class to keep
constantly in their employ artist de-
signers who originate the many beau
tiful and unique patterns, and these
patterns are then executed on the ma
terials by expert embroiderers. Oc-
casionally the dress maker herself, when
she is an artist, which is not infre-
quently the case, will make the designs
for the embroideries. but If her trade
IS large she will be able to do this
only in the cases of her most expensive
model gowns. The new wood fiber
silks are almost invariably chosen for
the work on the gowns in preference
to the silk produced by the silk. worm.
Not only are these vegetable silks
much more lustrous than the others.
but they are also of a. very smooth
and satiny texture, and the fiosses
work up quickly, giving broad and
rich effects without as much labor as
one might suppose. The silks come in
all the new shades of soft or deep
colors. so that almost any gown can
be matched exactly. and occasionally
when the shade of. the material is
little out of the ordinary, the silk is
dyed and made to assume precisely
the right hue. Often the embroidery
is done on the chiffon or marquisette
overdress, or on net or metallic tissue.
and sometimes it is worked on the
satin or crepe foundation of the gown.
Quite frequently threads of gold or
silver are mingled with the silk. and
tiny gold or silver beads are sometimes
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-26

of peacock blue charmeuse satin with
an overdress of black chiffon. This
was caught in a curious full effect into
a wide band of passementerie galloon
at the bottom, and had an opening up
one side TO the hip. The passementerie
was bordered on it's lower edge with a
fringe of Jet beads. The-chiffon over
dress was gathered at the top into a
shaped girdle of the passementerie,
which extended upward at the front in
low bib effect. The short sleeves
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-26
From The City OF Paris

Pink crepe meteor afternoon
gown, bib effect Of heavy en-
broiderys in pink floss on
draped corsage. Yoke and
collar OF lace; half sleeves OF
tucked net; skirt OF pieats, ;
with long simple lines.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-26
From Ransohof's

Paquin evening gown of
gray crepe meteor. Draped
tunic overdress of black chif-
fon edged with narrow jet pas
sementerie and heavily en-
broidered with coral tulip
floss; drapery OF tulip cotele
satin caught with Jet caba-
chons on skirt.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-26
REMopELING PAssEMENTERIEs

The many beautiful bullions and pas
sementeries which are often sold by
the yard can often be rearranged in
such way as to give them an alto
gether different appearance. BY this
means the danger of having them ex-
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1909-07-14
Reciorocity.

"Do you expect your constituents t. believe all you tell them?"
 "No," answered Senator Sorghuu' "and in return they must not expect me to tell them all I believe" ."-Wash ington Star
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1909-07-14
He Vas a Poor Guesser.

.lc UeS 3 'lrwZ Zizsi;lt'uctai and anS tols to cNtN..:it. matters Wheu h." saw a woman hc',,i,.: ! t,eo dollas lt." i'll her hanu he dit, n&et! with lhe. customary exhcttati"t; :n :,y her fare and began to count t,nt ciI:s:,Sc There had been draiu on his pockets throughout the trip. and he was obliged to interview half the passen gers in the car before he finally st,. cured the desired small coin F'inul,2 the transaction was completed, and the conductcr returned to the woman.
 "Fare?" he said
 The woman fished nickel from hci pocketbook Then she looked al the two dollar bill.
 'Dear me!' she said. How careless am! I forgot l had that money in my hand. Somebody might have stolen 1t"
 'Chumpr' growled the conductor
 The woman thought he meant her, but he didn't. He was cursing his own stupidity.--New York Globe
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1909-07-14
cIsxsinn6s Greedinsss Fer Work.

President Cleveland was often at his desk in the White House until o'clock In the morning and up again at 9. l fell into the way of working until about 1 o'clock ill the morning, and because of the oppressive heat l kept the door of my room wide open. Of ten during the hours around midnight I would step into the hall in hope of getting stray breath of air. Once it so happened that as 1 looked across tie hall to the half open door t;:raetl toward mine 1 saw upon is polished surface the reflection of Inc hand of q man writing with q pniience and an industry that amazed me. knew }hAf the president was at his desk ttqg.,l to ask the wRtChman when went tu my task In the morning at what hotii the president had knocked off WoY> the preceding night. 1 found tha' l. was generally about 3 o'clock in tue morning, although sometimes when he had finished some severe task that he had set himself he would stop at z o'clock. usually stopped work at o'clock, but I did once or twice hang on until in the hope that I might, If only for once. show an endurance equal ta that of the man next door, whose Hrccdiness for work had become proverbial- C eorGe r. Parker in Me TlJ,ye'S
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1909-07-14
The Mennonites.

The Mennonites grew out of four sects of Dutch, Flemish and German Baptists. They derive their name from Memo Simons, a Catholic priest who became a leader of the anabaptists in about 1537. Simons was born in 1492 and died in 1537. His True Christian Belief" was published three years be, fore his death. Following the dcaft of the leading spirit the sect unGer went divisions and changes of crHcd~ Pittsburg Dispatch.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1909-07-14
New York'e, lobster Palaces.

Nohodr oi distinction of appetite goes to a lobster palace to eat. One goes there in gaudy mood or wheu every other place is filled or closed or with the kind of man who thinks gay- ety means oyerdresSed women. bedia- moned men. walters rushing with champagne as if they bad the fire buckets and caterwauling orchestra; At midnight the din and the excite ment incline q Scdate man to ask him. self whether he Is not In riot If you have q lobster digestion. you don't hear the dil or feel the mae!Strom Of OmnibNs.eS walters head WatprS and patrons swlriins about you. \ man who is eating lobster has to concen- trate all his facUlties mental physical. moral and intellectual. on tie ordeal You have heard no doubt of the young lady who was asked over her first lob ster how sue liked 1t ''! think" sh" declared, 'if'> perfectly dei,,iDus if there weren't <" n,sn? large l,'ncs in 1t. Ttey look like re!'u!oi,l don't 'ise%T' Richard Duffy in l'EtlH,,a's
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1909-07-14

If a man empties k:s purse Into his head no one can ta.;r T tscm him Franklin.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1909-07-14

SALESMAN WANTED~-On conlmis~ sion or $75 and ap per month with expenses, as per c0nlTact fNptIl- ence unnecessary Premier C gar Co, Cincinnati. o.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1909-07-14
FOR RENT.

Dwellings. 2007 West Fifth Ave, rooms. 1910 West Pullen St.. 4 rooms. 619 Hickory St., 3 rooms. 1103 West Sixth Ave, rooms with bath and hall.
 509 West Sixth Ave, rooms with bath. Willing to make all improve nents with leased contract, 210 Olive St.. , rooms. S23 Poplar St., rooms. 5O3 West Third Ave, rooms. 1918 West Third Ave
 Dwellings (ColOred). 703 Mulberry St.. :; rooms. 1216 Fir St., 3 rooms.
 2612 West 18th Ave. 5 rooms. 701 Mulberry St., 3 rooms. We represent the following Old Line companies Peoples National, of Philadelphia; St. Louis Fire, of St. Louis; Washington Fire. of Washing ton; London Guarantee & Accident Co.,, of London, Eng: The Title Guar antee & Surety Company, of Pennsyl- vania.
 Consult me before placing your in surance, as it will be to your adyan- ta9e
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1909-07-14
For Sale.

Torturing eczema spreads it's burn sng area every day. Doan's Ointment nuickly stops its spreading, instantly relieves the itching. cures it perman- ently. At any drug store.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1909-07-14
Wanted.

SOFT DRINK SALESMEN WANTED Yearly contract $150 per month and expenses. Freight prepaid on shipments. Los Angeles Cider Co., Atlanta, Ga.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1909-07-14
A Candid Critic

Author-Have you read my neA book?
 Friend-Yes
 What do you think of it."
 "Well, to be candid with you. think the covers are too far apart. -Ch' ag" News
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1909-07-14

French Peasant Women Hard Worker The French peasant Wonlan. i''s' tonne or otherwise, works hard as an man. It makes one sad to see t':e women working in the fields. di@giA" and delving, carrying heavy burdens driving the cattle, sometimes attend ing to the machinery employee! on f!.' farms. One wonders whether hus bands and fathers appreciate il all especially when you hear some of t!" ballads. for ballads are supposed h reveal the soul of a people. heard one the other day of which the refrain Is as follows:
 Dear is my good wife Jeanne.
 Her death 1 should deplore
 But dearer are my beaves.
 Their loss would grieve inc more. From Plougastel (France) Letter tn New Orleans Times-Democrat.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1909-07-14
washincton's Rebuke.

"Washington." said senator. was not a cynic, yet he sometimes said things so wretchedly true that they had a cynical note. Thus, rebukinS a certain type of churchgoer, he once wrote:
 "'The church's feastS and lasts are marvelously well kept up. The rich keep the feasts and the poor tae fasts.'"
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1909-07-14
J3O MILL, BOOK
Sl2.:i,8

Good for bearer locally between points in Arkansas. H, N. ATWOOD.
New-York tribune., 1909-10-31
TRAITS OF A GREAT MAN.

Cesare Lombroso, the noted Italian GRIM
inologist and alienist. who died October
19, is thus described by former member
OF the scholars household in Turin: I'm
appearance he was most unimposinG. Di-
minutive, very stout, with a stirr. projecting
bit Of chin beard. he had q very long
waist and very short legs. This gave him
in walking the effect of pushing along
over the ground. He took small steps and
was always the same abstracted, faraway
visionary. thinking of something that had
little or nothing to do with the present I
think that II was his prosaic, almost COM
teal appearance that prevented us as chill
dren from appreciating with what a great
man we Were assocating.
With some amusement / now recall how
his family were forced to guard him from
the depredN tfons of world he was Ill
fitted TO resist In fact, 1t was no exag-
geration TO say that without his devoted
wife he would have been penniless in no
time. man OF uubounded kindness he
could never resist appeals for assistance
He received countless such appeals and
needless to say, most of them were i'm
postures.
II have vivid memory of his uncoucern
>about dress. Many time when he started
out to the university his wife had to run
after him and bring him back to put on
hts necktie. Equally careful she had TO ba
to that he did not wander forth on
cold evenings without an overcoat Dress
In general Professor I.ombroso regarded as
a bothersome necessity: he considered that
no lacked the time TO give to such nice
ties."-Chicago News
New-York tribune., 1909-10-31
NINE. SEMRRICH'S RECITAL.

Nine. Sembrich, who has been singing IN
Cincinnati, indianapolis. St. Louis and other
Western cities with greater triumphs than
even the great Polish singer has ever
known before. Will be heard IN her annual
tseital In Carnegie Hall on Tuesday after
~rn, November g. Nine. SembTich's pro-
nE~sDlnle for this concert will again be q
collection OF the gems OF song literature
snd will be arranged in accordance with
her former custom Of beginning with the
works of the classical composers of the
eighteenth century and earlier
In the first part there is a rarely heard
aria, .'Hallelujah" from Han 1ers orator,o.
in addition to numbers of Bach and Para
dies Schubert, Schumann and Brahns
make up the group Of the classical Ger
man composers OF lieder, while the last
part, consisting OF modern songs, will con-
tain two very charming new songs by
Massenet, and "Otworz Janku," Polish
dance or Inasurek by Stanislas Niewiad-
amski, a Polish composer whose work has
hitherto been unfamiliar here The COM
poser Is pupil OF Carl Mikuli and is now
filling the post Of teacher OF composition
and pianoforte at the Conservatory of
Lemberg, which is the school In which
Nine. Sembrich began her musical educa-
tion.
New-York tribune., 1909-10-31
CALENDAR FOR THE CURRENT
WEEK.

6CNDAY.-Carnegie Hall. .. m, song
recital by Johanna Gedslsi: New York
Theatre, $50 p. m. concert by Victor
Herbert and his orchestrs; Manhattan
Opera House. S;15 p. m. popular cperatio
concert
MoSDAY.-Lyceum Theatre. p. m, rec!-
tai by Louise Homer. composed and 40
companied by Sidney Homer.
TUESDAY.-Mendelsso Hail. 2:3o p. m,
song recital by Miss TiIiy Koenen: Acad-
amy of Music. Brooklyn, s p. M, lecture
by Carl FiQue on Tho Evolution OF the
Overture"
WEDNESDAY.-Carneg Hall. s:16 p. m.
American debut OF Yolande Mero pianist:
Mendelssohn Hall. s:15 D. m. recital of
violin music by Hans Letz: Opera House,
Brooklyn. s:15 p. m. recital OF piano
forte music by Nine Carreho
THURSDAY.-Mendelss Hall. o. m,
song recital by Janet Spencer; Carnegie
Hall. p. m, concert by Blanche Arrai
assisted by the Russian Orchestra: s:Ib
?. m, hrst subscription evening concert
OF the Philharmonic Society
FR1DAY.-Csrnegie Hall. 2:3o D. m. first
afternoon concert of the regular sub
scrtption series by the Philharmonic So
eiety: Mendelssohn Hall, Sis D. M. con-
cert>of violin music by Mrs. Giseia Weber;
Opera House. Brooklyn, s:15 p. m. con-
cert by the Symphony Orchestra OF New
York
sATCRDAY.-Carnegi Hall, .. m, song
recital by Nine. schumann- Heink; Opera
House, Brooklyn, p. m. concert OF
music for young people by the Symphony
Orchestra Of New York: Mendeissohn
Hail, $50 p. m, violin recital by
Jascha Bron.
New-York tribune., 1909-10-31
NEW YORK SYMPHONY SOCIETY,".

It was the intention OF Walter Damrosch
20 begin the season Of the Symphony Soci-
ETY. Of New York at The New Theatre, but
as that plan is not feasible. owing to tho
elaborate preparations for the regular Mon
day night opening performance, Mr.. Dam
rosch has decided to give his first concert
al Carnegie Hall. 1t will be on Sunday af-
tsrnoon. November z. The full programme
for this concert, which will be one of the
most interesting Mr.. Damrosch has ever
given is as follows:
6yUphony No. l...-..............-.. Elgsr
Ballet music from the pantomme Les
petts Tlens' ........-.............. Mozart
dsrst time in Aunerica)
4 rom Bohemia 2 Forests and Meadows. .Smetsna
lNew. First time in America-)
Fritz Kreisler is 10 be the soloist at the
concert at The New Theatre on Sunday sf-
ternoon, November "A, and again at the
Carnegie Hall concert on Tuesday evening,
November &c.
SUNDAY AFTERNOON. NOVEMBER a.
sgiipi'cfy no - Beethoven
Concerto for violin. Beethoven
Fritz kreisler.
Overture. LeonCre No. 2-........-... Beethoven
TUESDAY EVENING. NOVEMBER 1s
Ballet music from Les petits riens'' .. Mozart
Concerto for violin Beethoven
Fritz Ereisler.
bymphony NO d.. .-..-----.---. Beethoven