The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1909-06-06
SERVING WINES AT DINNER
VINTAGE CHAMPAGNES SHOULD
NOT BE TOO COLD
Temperature for Clarets and ~Bursundies
Rules for Pouring Ont Wine-The
Matter OF Decsnting-CoOliug Rhine
wiue-Deiicacy Of Fine Brands.

When the late Ward MoAllister under
took the social regeneration Of New
York's smart set he found much TO criti-
else in the form of its entertainments
The habit Of serving wines as he found il
in those days aroused his special disap-
proval.
OF one hostess he said that at her table
the champagne was invariab bly, hot, while
the soup was usually cold. He charged
one Of the noted Newport entertainers
Of that day with no less a crime against
the rules of good eating n drinking than
the custom of ordering clarets and bur
Rundies from New York grocers a week
or 80 before they we're needed. h wines
in consequence being drunk perhaps a
dsy or two after their arrival.
II it is true that New Workers ever did
such things it is certain hat they do not
do them now. They have1earned better
during the years that have interviewed
since the time they were supposed To be
ignorant of the difference between warm
champagne and muddy red wines. Vari-
Gus causes have combined to bring about
this desirable result.
There are many more families to-day
that entertain elabora tely. As a result
Of this there are many more experienced
servants. and one Of the things in which
foreign buffers are trained is the proper
serving OF wines.
Then guests at the dinners given to-
day have creator opportunities to notice
the quality of the wine that they drink.
The number Of wines served at formal
dinners now is much smaller than it used
TO be, but dinners are also simpler in the
matter Of food. So the wine that is served
ma be drunk with greater opportunity
TO test its quality.
There is no reason why New Workers
should not be familiar now with the ways
In which to serve wines that their qualities
may be in their best estate. Not only
are de we'll trained servants more numer-
Gus than they used to he, but the hotels
which make a specially OF their service
have. greatly increased in numbers in
recent years,
Dining out is more popular than it
used 10 be. and persons now make a
speciality Of knowing as much as possible
shout wines and the correct way Of serv-
ing them. just how extensive their
knowledge may be is a matter it Is not
well to inquire into too deeply, but they
n 70 speak to tho walters with an
appearance Of great authority.
One Of the first principles Of this knowl-
edge is the fact that all champagnes
should be cooled to 80 degrees. That is
the rule for most wines. 1t takes much
knowledge Of champa gnes to know that
certain kinds should be drunk at the
cellar temperature.
The average champagne said the
presiding genius Of the great wine COM
pany tucked under the hotel On Fifth
avenue. should he served at a low tenn
peratlre. but in my opinion vintage
vineS should never be put on the table
at any colder temperature than that
OF the cellar in which they have been
stored. That is particularly the same
az saying that the temperature should
range from IS degrees TO 81 degrees,
since that is the temperature maintained
h q 6rst class cellar.