The San Francisco call., 1909-07-04

4 models decidedly popular at present
k@ and are shown in the shops in large
IE1gNWl1Nt variety OF styles.
tSSSGI They are seen with and without
back and front yokes. with kinds OF
tucked fronts and while they all buttoned
front, there are good ways of doing this also
Percales. linens. fine lawns even handker-
chief linens all used in their making. but it would
as f~fhe preference should be given to the
heavier materials.
One new design which is attracting much atten-
ton in this copied the manner of making
after mans shirt. The back is perfectly plain
a small yoke; the fronts plated in variety
of styles. The length of the shirt from neck
is shorter in comparison than shirt nd
in this point lies the only difference, arnhole
and sleeves being copied exactly from the
line garment
The first thing to do will be to thoroughly shrink
cloth. forgetting o include in this the
butchers linen which is used to interline the
and neckband.
In cutting the back out fold the material on the
length Of it. so that is as wide as the broadest part
of the back This usually that it does
have to be folded down the middle Of the width,
and considerable saving thus be effected. II
there stripes should come In the middle or
the middle of cloth between the stripes be
rs the middle The cut not forgetting
to trace the seam lines 1t usually takes the best
part OF one width Of cloth for each front so that
two lengths must be cut off, and the fronts tucked
and the middle front pait and hem laid before
The fronts lap e-quarters Of an inch so that
the first thing will be front lay
hem down one side three-quarters of an inch wide
and stitch it. Next lay the pattern where
the tucks to Mark them first on the
pattern and then lay them in the material and
stitch them. On the right front make hem or box
plat and one-half inches WIDE when laying
the pattern put the middle front line down the
exact middle OF the plait. On the left the
middle pattern is 4aid where the stitching of
the hem
Before using the sleeve pattern, fold it together
down the middle Of the width and If that
the edges together It has been noticed some
of the patterns Of these onepiece sleeves that If
seam put together according to the notches the
VII ST bad anil rvhar 0irl hava rof
knowledge of sewing they naturally follow marks
implicitly. This seeming inaccuracy probably
from cutting such a large number at time
y \
If the edges do not meet all the way when
the pattern is folded together trim off or
both edges the to require to make the
edges exactly match then cut the sleeves out being
that the middle of the sleeve length
comes straight line of the cloth. Where is
short Of cloth the sleeves be pieced down their
length the under side and 1t will not show.
The cuffs cut, in striped goods, on
the outside the stripes around and the
side they go up and down. or they be made to
match both upper and under Sides going around
the band laid a lengthwise fold of the cloth
The shoulder seams stitched together in a
felled seam, making the felled part threeeighths
inch wide and stitching 1t from the right
instead OF Telling IT down by hand
The next step is to finish the opening the
sleeves A diagram showing the extension hem and
the upper facing appears this page.
The extension hem should measure about a half
inch wide when finished. and 1t is put with the
narrowest possible seam, then the opposite side
hemmed over the the wrong side. The
lower edge of this hem is turned in
tom and overhanded together first cutting away
the edge of the sleeve point SO that the seam
to which the cuff is to be attached will below
the hem.
On the opposite side the opening the faced
portion is attached by stitching the first