The sun., 1909-01-31

tielos over which the snipe and sandpip pers
rose as The train passed
There were numerous lotus ponds.
~ the bulb of the lotus s highly esteeme ed
as n salad in the restaurants of Canton.
The farmers all live in villages Of from
three to a dozen houses. with high walls
Of mortar and stone for mutual pro-
lection.
We were hardly under way before our
fellow passengers began to examine the
Small arsenal that we carred-four shot
guns. a couple Of Krag rifles and three
revolvers. Though inquisitive to marked
degree the Chinese are not at all un-
friendly and we were very glad to show
them how the weapons worked.
All Cinnamon are intensely interests ed
in modern firearms, as they have felt
their terrible power in several wars and
the Government does not allow the
people to own any weapons. One soldier
in particular was much excited when we
showed him a navy Colt .3s He was
evidently train guard and had an old
single acting horse pistol Of which he was
ycrv proud. He had shined the sight
almost entirely away and the whole gun
glisfened like a piece Of quarterback
bright work on Sunday morning.
1t was dark before we reached Sam
shut, This place is the headquarters
Of the liquor manufactures OF southern
China. and the national drink bears its
name. Samshui is made from fermented
rice and to the European palate is the
vilest Of drinks
One Of us knew a customs official. an
ex-seaman Of our navy, and after much
ha ggling with the bearer coolies we
started for the custom house, keeping
n close watch on our pack animals, as
they would have liked nothing better
than to walk of with our packages. We
met our friend and started of on hunt
for a houseboat, eventually finding a
very good boat with a living space about
twenty feet long, benches and plenty of
stowage room for chow and traps,
Foo, having slowed everything aboard,
end OF the boat, where the old sampan
man (boatman) and his family Of five
lived. Three coolies began to pole us
up the river and We lighted our pipes,
opened the Scotch and drank the Jungle
toast Of Good hunting"
FROM the Cn8tterlnR ait ana the pleas
ant sound and smell OF something in the
skillet we knew old Foo was getting
busy. and soon he appeared driving the
old man and his two boys before him,
all Of whom we're laden with dishes. All,
Foo. wonderful Foo, how you did feed
us on that hike; Brunswick stews OF fear
full appearance but delicious taste, game
pies and stews, snipe, duck, succulent
herbs, rice and curry, with now and
then a goose pilfered from some farm
yard along the river banks.
After hearty meal, a pipe and night
cap we burned several punk sticks to
the home idol in the corner and turned
in but alasl not to sleep. Our craft was
but one Of a hundred polling up river.
and the language OF the coolies must
have been far from missionary talk il
we could judge from the tones in which
the yells and shrieks we're delivered.
Every Jew minutes we would crash
into a neighboring boat, and yells OF dis
gust at the others stupidity would invari-
ably follow, while the captains exchanged
choice remarks as to each others an
cestors. Foo also kept up a constant
flow OF conversation in a low tone with
the ladies Of the sampan family, evil
IDENTIFY telling them what a great man
they harbored, for they ever after treated
him with respect.
About midnight we came to anchor
of tiny village three miles from Sam
shut. but this was very little better,
for a faithful watchman made the night
hideous by banging away on gong
every few minutes-ding. dong. then
silence, and you turned over to sleep;