Evening star., 1909-02-28

reverently as the medieval gown. or
course. you know these effects are only
worn for afternoon and home affairs.
and the sinartest of them are fashioned
from panne velvet which material gives
the long. close lines that hug the figure
without adding weight or bulkiness.
What makes this frock trying for the
majority Of women is the low neck that
is imperative. Such gowns arc borrowed
from the middle ages, and then the neck
was bare So must II be now. and there
Is no getting away from the decree. Col
lars are worn for the street. but never in
the house, no matter what the time or
day. To describe this frock more accu-
rately, the short-waisted bodice Is cut
round just below the collar bone and this
middle space between the collarbone and
the base of the neck is filled III with
tiny piece Of handsome lace. A yoke is
not used. The sleeves are long. tight
and untrimmed. save for the wrist rune
of lace. In some instances the turnback
cuff of superb lace edged with deep ruff
fle OF lace at the top Is seen. but
this finish belongs historically to tho
puffed sleeves OF velvet slashed with sat
in. This cuff is rather out OF keeping
do as they will nowadays, and IL they
wish to put the feature of one epoch in
dress along with the styles OF another We
are perfectly content All that We ask
is beauty. which is abundantly supplied
this season in things sartorisl.
To return to the medieval gown. the
trick is to keep the front and back ah-
soutely straight and fiat and to curve in
the side seams to show the outline OF
bust and waist. An easy matter this for
the amateur dressmaker, for, as you can
readily imagine. there is very little fit to
II. To continue the story of this gown
a minute more: When the throat is not
round and full as 1t might be. dog
collar of velvet, jeweled or ornamenfed
with enameled slides. is worn, but the
uncovered neck is thought the more ar
tistic treatment.
<
The hats worn just now by Partisan
women at Monte Carlo are distinctly
smaller than those worn during the win
ter; but then when one says distinctly
smaller one does not mean to convey
the idea that tho small chapeau has ar
rived. For the moment. and We can take
it as an indication of the spring shapes,
the immensely wide. fiat brims of yester-
day are being curtailed. and the large tur-
ban and small cloche models are most
exclusive. 1t is likely that ostrich feath-
ers will be the favored trimming OF dressy
hats. A delightful creation was seen re
Gently showing the arrangement of feath-
ers which Is going to be fashionable TINS
spring The hat itself was very VIDE
of brim and made of fine black erin. The
crown was large and domed. and stand
ing erect in front in the shape or an I'M
mense bow were eight superb feathers:
four at each side. forming the loops or
the bow with buckle Of dull silver inset
with old paste in the center The featn-
ers were not long, but each was an an
solutely perfect specimen, and the whole
effect was regal, if trifie overpowering.
T have seen the same style OF trimming
carried out with six feathers of moderate
size. three on each side. with a nat chou
of auilIed satin ribbon taking the place
of the buckle. Indeed, many Of the new
est and most expensive n.-llinery models
are trimmed with punches of upstandinE
feathers at one side or almost in front, and
the domed crown appears in connection
with many different brims-
CATHERINE TALBOT.