New-York tribune., 1909-09-06
WELSH SCENES
An american Circuit-Castles and
Tudor Houses.
CONWAY. Aug,l,t %

| +orr nv the Highland DartmoOr and Cornwall
| rounds American names are on every hotel
| register American voices are heard on every
rnountain path or coast esplanade which Is not
/ beset with holiday English trippers- The favor
ite route is a long loop from Chester through
| Ruabon and BaIa to Dolgelley and thence
| through the SnowdOn villages to Carnarvon.
| Bangor, Conway and Llandudno II does not
| include the Celtic district Of 81. Davids nor ths
| coast around Tenby. but IL embraces the most
: romantic mountain villages. the approaches 70
| the highest SUBMITS. the most beautiful castles
| and the most popular seaside resorts In North
Wales 1t is a fine motor circuit, for the main
roads are excellent even In the mountainous dis
| trict and there are comfortable inns in remote
| villages 1t Is also varied and charming round
| for economical tourists dependent upon coaches.
brakes and excursion trains. and with the must
cal cadences Of voices trained for Eisteddrodau.
the characteristics sounds OF a Celtic languags
as individual as the Gaelic of Ireland or OF Scot
land and with quaint glimpses OF rural occupa-
tons and workers cottages. there is the pleas
,1rabIe sense OF a rapid flight through a foreign
country. North Wales has become one OF the
best features OF the American itinerary OF the
Old Home.
If a belated traveller arrives at Rhyl on a
Saturday night in August he can readily believe
that the good old registering days OF Queen Bess
or of Charles III have returned. for the station
scampering for trains. charging headlong across
platforms, and, when forced 70 halt until mid
night for a misaid Denbigh special. roaring
jabilantly in Men of FTariech' or other stirring
songs. What noisy, rollicking rabble ft will
be, and how Justify with loud guffaw and trilinE
roundelay will the chorusss be rounded out by
trained singers, Cavaliers may be in command
of the town at midnight with serenades for their
geutes but in the morning Roundhesds viii ts
on guard all along the coast and up and down
the mountain villages II will he vigorous
Nonconformist Sunday. with train service sll=-
pended tramways to Great Crme's Head
motionless. castles and show places closed
empty and darlzened public houses and svarr=
of trippers and holiday makers taking their
pleasures seriously as the hymn singing con
gregations IN the chspeIs. The thrifty native
likes to drive good bargain at the visitors ex-
pense. but Sunday trafic IS sbomiuation in
his sight.
The favorite haltins place in this circuit FOR
Americans is Conway. Mountains and head
lands can be matched in their own country but
the castle high the rocks, with the belt cf
town walls. seni-circular towers and medieval
gateways, IS unique in beauty Of form and en-
vronr1ent Carnsrvon was larger fortress
and with its outlying town walls overlooked a
lovely lagoon; but in it's ruined state IL is ONLY
the empty shell OF its former pride and glory
The round towers of Harlech high upon Z sea
side crag, are effective; ivy clad Beaumarto with
it's traceried windoNs and central court is
beautiful ruin: enough remains of Dyserth and
Rhuddlan. Denbtgh and Ruthin and other Welsh
castles to suggest their oldtime spIendor The
appreciative stghtseer halts at these show places
and turns away IistlessIy without regret or de-
sire to see them again At Conway he prolonzs
his stay, not merely because IL is a good centre
for excursions and rambIes. but also because
the castle fascinates his ina aginatiou and he Is
unwilling to leave it behind him. Without and
within indeed. IL is a picture for the eve uo-
only of childhood but also of every age and de-
gree of aesthetic sensibiIity. With the massive
towers and graceful turrets. the portculIizad
gateway and stately banquetius hall. the FRO
Jectins oriels above and the darksome dungeons
below, the terrace opening upon the river and
the walk along the battlements with prospects
of wooded knoll mountain peaks and simmer
ing sea, not detail is lacking OF the ideal cas-
tie of youthful dreams and Turner's perfected
art.
Equally complete is PIas Mawr the Tudor
mansion of the Wynnes. where Queen Elizabeth
and Leicester We're entertained. In the fret
work ceilings are roses. and oak leaves are in
the friezes of the banqueting hail: stone null
ions and cOlOred latticeS look out upon stately
courts; chimney breasts with carved supports
rise above spacious frepIaces and hearths: deco
panelled wainscot; lookout towers above are ap-
preached by spiral stalrways and kitchen and
pantries below are heavily timbered and fitted
with stone ovens. bread safes cradle spits and
fire irons, and in reception room. hall and bed
rooms there is a fantastic procession of drasons
swans, Storks. grifins. owls stays boars doves
eagles. deer and SaTacens' heads in honor Of a
bygone dynasty There is a door for every week
and window for every day of the year. There
Is not an empty room in the wonderful house
Tor it has been converted into a museum Of
Tudor furniture and curiosities 50 that every
visitor, IN DIR. JohnsOn's phrase. can see how his
ancestors used 10 live. Not detail is missing
Latin and Greek Inscriptions are outside. with
the date of construction; there are secret hid
ins places. with trap doors and sliding panels
Tor priests or suspects within hailing distance
or the kitchen larder and the chimney breasts:
and there is n haunted room. with stone stair
case and reverberating floor where the meas
ured football of a restless. unhappy knight has
been heard for generations
There are two cathedrals in North Wales each
with traditions from the sixth century and each
rebuilt repeatedly after fire with a final resto-
ration by Sir Gilbert Scott. St Asaphs is TIE
better structure. with a massive square tower
and some of the essential features OF the desc
iated Gothic architecture. Bangor being palmer
ana standing on lower gTound. with an unfin-
lshed central tower They are among the small
est cathedrals in the kingdom and are out Ot
place IN Wales. Notwithstanding their historic
associations with primitive Christianity in Brit
am They are out of touch with the industrious
workers IN mines and Quarries and minority.