The Washington times., 1909-10-03
By MADAME SAvARIE.


Paris. Sept. 2. 1893
,-ef,Rrt,TTONS Of even "a small J
portion OF the new coats cioaks 1
and wraps for fan and winter [
- would fin this entire fashion /
a,so, But I'm an the multitude OF
models Two features stand out promi- !
,,rtlv. one is that an coats are longer
thu liver. The other is that the shape.
loss .stovc-pipe- model Of last winter
~ zone down before an onrushing
ARMY .or ample zhapely models
Tho average length of the new suit
coat Is 4 inches or longer That OF the
eer4rate coat is nearly 81 not quite 20
,5o bottom Of a walking length skirt
Nam. new models in separate coats have
rl~fts below the waistlino- But unlike
tho coats of Louis XII. upon which they
ara modelled. these new coats do not
..s,t out" Instead they hang quite soit
and uai This effect is heightened by
,cr, superior tailoring Tn some of the
more elegant models the satin Innings in
coats stop al the waistIne and the rest
or the coat is lined only with chiffon.
There arc so many complete gowns be-
ing worn in very soft fabrics that long
eerarate coats will play a more import
ami role than FOR many years. The inc
creased width 81 the skirt portions oi
coats is due OF course 20 the fact that
dress skirts are an so much wider about
the foot The coat waistline is agar
~ the normal waistline and there is az
increasing tendency 10 shape both sui
and, separate coats so that although
semf-Gttiug only as vet. they do outline
tho curves of the figure more than las
season. In the coat showing plaits
these IN some cases are below the hip
and fn other models are below the waist
elmo al the back.
A popular model has habit back ca
IN one with the coat sides TO form bi
obl0ng pocket pieces. Below these pock
cts the coat IS plated when the fabri
g. light enough iu weight and gathere
when IL is heavier There are singl
breasted coats. and double brcaste
coats. Some coats fasten I'm Russia
blouse fashion far TO one side. Pract
callv an coats have collars and an
closed fairly high IN front.
The collar Is the chief decorative fcs
ture OF this seasons coat There an
many shawl collars. and some ~ the.
are OF two materially fancifully con
bined now collar has a shawl r0
in front that looks especially iaunt
with the new Napoleouic hat.
Buttons are large and decorative hi
not many are used on amy one Carmen
and only when they look as If actual
needed TO fastpn someNdlug. eth
fe0nts, pockets, cuffs, or collar. Some
the best Paris houses are using jet bu
tons, but iu America the jet butt,
craze cot such a Roadway last seas'
they are not likely to be used sa
when combined with something els
For example big jet center with C.
steel outer edge rs new and handsom
You are sure TO see in America maj
variations OF the Fi0rentine coat. TT
is a plated garment, cut on semi-ftti
lines and one OF those wardrobe necc
siues-"somcthiuS that looks smart. p
~ vet practicable for the average pun
and general wear"
Tor those who are never quite rea
20 take the newest thing, there are
course coats and coats That are q
plated. Tie model ] Ike best iu
nCn-Diaited coats Is known as ''T
gfruroee which has the upper ba
sfirrcd into a. belt and the LAWYER 81,
perfectly plain. like a habit-baCk. a
there is Am uncommon uumhef Of sen
bic Details iu the new models. For
ampir. not only are there COilarS on
t0ate such AS one might look FOR tu 30
weather garments. but has not alW.
found by any means Of late years
these collars are often adjustable
that they may Doe turned up on turn
Down
Motor coats for the coming winter
made Of anictlv handsome udteri
Thev arc conservative enough iu go
10 please tie MOST iastidiOus taste VI
arc Cut on r0omy. cnlel0plUg lines,
rave sleeves that protect the arms,
cannot balloon o9t' boo every gust.
fronts TAP luNmiousiy. The collars
ingeniOusiy devised no stand nigh
close about fhe throat, or roll open
rwiil If tho WCarcr Some of the best
She new motor coat models nave
backs sut quite fuil, This fullucss q
being held Do, place bv q wide strap
tened only a. ~ end ON the side-hi
SEAMS
a good example ~ this model.
many Of the new coats, has huge jHo