The log cabin Democrat., 1909-10-18
WAJ71NG fOR THE 5TfHTfR 70 LArD AT EkK ZAhE


 through the wild mining lands of | northern Ontario. He was so full of | his experiences that he could scarcely | tell where to begin or where to end | the tale. But 1t was interesting just l the same-the office mans impress l sions of the hardships of the miner
 "Latchford is the real starting point" said he. "Latchford? Oh, it's way up beyond Muskoka The Mon- treal river runs all through that coun- try. and it's the lake expansions and rapids of the river that give all the variety to the trip. But really though it's a surprise to find people travelling that way right here within a couple of hundred miles from Buffalo. You think of the luxury of our railroad lines and steamboats that carry you straight to the point you want to reach, and then-no, there isn't way to get into that country except by canote and portage.
 As far as Elk lake you can make 1t by the little steamers. We started out about seven o'clock in the morn ing, there were four little steamers on the first section of the way, and each of them carried about 25 passen- gers. We steamed up the lake and arrived at the other end. There we unloaded everything and the cargo was loaded on to the trucks that wait ed there for It. It was all rocks and woods of the widest kind, and | through this we walked and carried our grips The trucks mentioned were hauled by horses on corduroy roads with tracks on them. At the end of the tramp we took another little side wheeler and proceeded up the second | little lake. Scenery? Oh, yes, 1t was beautiful-wild and rugged of course, with woods on each side of the lake. and good fresh air.. But the black flies were the worst. I'll tell you more about them afterward.
 And so about noon we landed again to make our second portage. There was tent in the woods here a kind of inn where we had dinner. We enjoyed 1t too. Afterward we went on again and took the next boat The longest of those portages was about half a mile. it's 55 miles they say, from Latchford to Elk lake, and the round trip costs s5-such as 1t is.
 There are three companies offer ing to transport you from Latchford to Elk lake. The whole trip through to Gowganda this way costs $20 for round trip. Freight Is 71a cents a pound To give some idea of the cost of things up there, gasoline sells for $2 gallon in Gowganda. What do little launches on the lakes beyond Elk City that carry passengers and the canoes to the first portage. 12 miles; the balance of the way to Cow ganda is by canoe only. We had our | own canoe. There were two of us. We left the first portage and started into the wilds for Gowganda portag- tween the lakes.
 Imagine a narrow road, just wide enough to get through the bushes. and rather awkward at that with canoe on your head, with rocks jutting up everywhere and trees and underbrush blocking the view on every side. Then take your canoe, put the paddles across the seats, and hoist 1t on your head so that the paddle blades rest on your shoulders and the body of the canoe tilts back so that you can see as you walk.
 
 tages between Elk City and Gowgan- da. The whole distance is about 35 miles, so you may suppose how bro ken the journey Is. The longest of the portages is about 11s miles. But there was one about half way across that was the climax of the whole trip. I never saw anything like it. When and thought that we had to get our stuff up there-well. we knew we had something before us. They say it's l three-Quarters of mile across that l one. But I never knew longer three-quarters of a mile. It winds 1 everywhere, and at a steady up grade exactly like a rock staircase-and | that's why 1t gets its name. They 1 call 1t the Golden Stair. Why Golden! | Oh I suppose because it's so nice and easy to climb up. But we did get up at last. and then another bit of pad | ding lay before us. We reached Gowganda at last, and began to look at various properties.
 And now about the flies: I tell vo, Inne 15 to August 15 Is a good time to keep away from that coun- try saw a man with his face all swollen to twice It's size, and bleeding all over-just flies. They are little black fellows and they bite like mad. You don't feel them until they bite you. It's a sharp. stinging bite, and then the blood comes. Lots of men