Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-14
THE AMERICAN At TABLE
ENGLISH CRITICISM OF FOOD IN
UNITED STATES.
The Want of a Well-Balanced Meal.
Too Much Haste in
Eating.
From the London Express.

From the London Express
America is a land of extremes, and
therefore we should expect to find more
instances, or, at any rate, more exag-
gerated instances. Of food reform there
than in England
1t is also land of curious and in
quisitive people. who have an almost
morbid craving to arrive at facts ana
reasons and systems. OF late years
three methodical experimenters nave
come to the front in connection with
food reform and eating-namely, Prof.
Chittenden, Prof Irving Fisher and Mr..
Horace Fletcher.
Prof Chittenden wrote chiefly about
The amount Of proteid, or albumen. etc.
supposed to be necessary Tor an 0rGl-
nary person daily. His book, publish
tone of conviction. but just lately Prof.
Chittenden has practically admitted tnat
his conclusions were premature.
Prof. Irving Fisher proceeded IN a
more cautious and sensible manner IN
stead of making any rash assertions as
10 what was to hold good for all the
world he told his experimenters 10 at
tend to the tastes OF the 1ooas unat t they
faIt inclined for And he arrived AT
two conclusions: first. that compa-
ratively small amount Of food. IL at
tended to- and well maStlcateu' was
suf,icient for the day. and that non
f,ash diet gave better endurance: he
carried out the tests In an aosDIulelS
impartial spirit He ana MI i.t1,,ndrad"
Tletcher both belong to the Hundre1
an America a body of men whose oo
iect is TO help the health OF the peopie
Masticating.
Nv Horace Fletcher tried and advocated
.to sx.s,enn of masticating every moutnful
=, GOOD whether solid or liquid. as long
= :, bad any taste. He also 1ound
.bat this plan made and kept him better
,,bvsicallv and mentally, and ne naturahs'
without prejudice. came 10 prefer 'ie h''
flesh foods. - ;,,o, on The
MANY books have been written Oh .nd
subject of food reform in America anu
.,aSy articles also. OF the DOCKS tndt
have aroused interest-besides the "orkS
of these three authors-one Hishl nv.
lion three-those of Densmore' DEWEY anu
Densmore inveighed against starch.
Dewey against breakfast, while earring
ton advocated fasting. in work 'hat is
most suggestive of new ideas
D., ~ is rather with practical food re-
-orTn that I wish 10 deal here. and we
NAV divide the subject into three depart
rnents-food reform OF indiviouais' oi
groups. and OF restaurants anu o'i''
Establishments.
All over America individuals are ex-
perimenting with food reform OF one kind
or another, on the whole probably TO
somewhat smaller extent than individuals
are in England. for. though the EnSilsn-
man is more conventional than the Amer
team. the American is more gregariouss
and social than the Englishman, and
our social habit initiates against 1000
reform.
Reform Societies.
With regard 10 groups. We find food
reform societies everywhere. in every city.
and also in some OF the colleges: at
Harvard and Yale. for example there are
large numbers Of students who prefer
rcn-nesh foods.
Turning to the restaurant, pure and
simple quite apart from the institutions
Of these two men. we find them scatter
ed all over America: for instance. there
arc TWO in San Francisco and several in
Los Angeles. l will take here the menu
of one OF the restaurants which has over
twenty branches in America.
The strong features OF the menu
the comparatively low prices and the
variety in the breads. biscuits and nut
dishes. The weak points are the fearful
buIkiness of the dishes. the happiness and
mushiness OF many (Which encourages
fast eating and hence induces fermenta-
tom. the somewhat sichly drinks. the
comparative poverty OF vegetables and
fruits and, last but not least. feature
/ noted I'm the chief dairy-restaurants OF
New York, a feature of almost incredible
narrowness and stupidity and folly. the
utter absence OF any kind OF cheese. In
England know far better than this:
we find that cheese is one OF the most
valuable staples instead OF meat.
Another place. which has over ten
branches in America. also has cheese
whatsoever on its list. II has more fruit
than the above mentioned restaurant
and greater variety of vegetables. but
the bulk of food offered. and the mushi-
ness and starchiness OF IL, is a fearful
mistake in my opinion. The Americans
are fast eaters. and the worst thing to
eat fast is starchy food. When people can
get plenty OF fresh air and exercise, there
is less harm I'm the carbonaceous diet;
hut very few people can, or will, get
plenty OF fresh air and exercise. and SO
This diet is probably one OF the worst
possible.
Subject Of Drinks.
As to the drinks. some are good Qor