Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-03-21

n OST important to comfort and also to the appear
| ance of every woman is the tailor made costume
which at this time of year is always the SUBJECT
of serious consideration whether the dress allowance
be unlimited or painfully sraened. There nave peeh
discussions of late years in reference TO this same
tailor made style, the contention being whether tne
more elaborate style of cloth costume enlivened by
elaborate bradlng and trimming and cut on more ran
cfu lines was not by far the most becoming ana
smartest. For time the absolutely severe modeis
were unquestionaby relegated to the background the
true severe absolutely plain tailor made rs they were
called being only for the hardest kind OF wear
and chosen by either who lived in the country
or business women who had proved by yearly ex-
perence that business clothes were obligatory.
1t may be but another proof of the luxury and ex-
trayagance of modern life that these same severe
styles have again been brought into favor certainly
1t is the height of fashion and incidentally of social
ambition for most women to be considered up 10
date in every respect The life of the modern society
leader is spent the country for many months of the
year. out of sports of all kinds play an important
part in the social schedule and no woman is consid-
cred well dressed who is appropriately gowned con-
seouently the most servceabe and of tailored
gowns required for the country as well as for the
winter trips Journeys that also take up much OF
the time. And be it known that the palmer and more
severe the costume the perfect must 1t be In cut
and fit while the lines thereof must be carefully
planned.
Serges for Tailored Costumes.
Smooth cloths not suitable for the practical,
hard wear tailor made costumes, and there are any
number of weaves in the serges fashionable at the
moment while in cheviot and tweed there is an in
finite variety of choice both in pattern and cooring
Black and blue serge, with preference for the latter
is in great demand, and the great danger is that
blue serge will be altogether too popular before long,
especially in the ordinary shades and in the
medium weaves But there new shades of blue
and new weaves of serge not to be found iii any
shop and these will be made up by the leading talors
as we'll In the order departments OF the large shops
and will be fashionable for many months to come
Blue serge trimmed with black was shown by the
dressmakers in Paris last autumn, but in America
the season too far advanced before the fashion
became known to be too prevalent Now 1t has >ex-
tended far and wide, and while blue serge costume
braided in black is bound to look smart If made with
any care and SKILL still smarter will be the plain I'M
trimmed rough SERGE which will its beauty to it's
perfection of cut.
Among the new shades of blue two worthy Of
snecial mention-one so dark to be almost black,
with tone of purple through it, and light fresh
blue that in the rough serge or cheviot has her
ringbone weave Made with plain, close fitted but
NOT exaggeratedly scant or short skirt, and with a
long balfhtted coat either of these two makes
M most satisfactorily. The fashion of the white
and lining several shades lighter than the material
is used in preference. There is also shade OF gray
a light French gray-that is smart and most service