Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1909-04-28
Correspondence.

ArTKIN, MINI, April l, 1909.

ABOUT the miQQIe OF feDfuAIy IOWhfu
DeLaittre and wife and Mr.. DeIAittre and
myself found that we had about three
weeks to spare for sslittle journey" to
the Southland. After discussing various
points, all decided in favor OF that country
Of mystery and antiquity, ''the dwelling
place Of Aztecs and OF Spaniards. the
realm OF sunshine and of silver-Mexico."
Since our return, several friends in New
England have written asking for an ac-
count Of our journey, the principal features
of the route, etc. decided that, owing to
its extensive circulation, an article or two
in THE AMERICAN would save the time
given to individual letters, and answer the
many questions as to what we saw.
All are more or less familiar with the
chief objects to be seen en- route and in the
old Mexican cities, but no pen can describe
the elements that contributed most to our
delight. From the moment we crossed
the Rio Grande we found nothing old or
Mexican costume, colors. charms and
mannerisms were there, and are realized
only by those who go to see them.
But anticipate. We had some pleasant
experiences before we reached Mexico.
Twelve hours at Kansas City gave us a
fine impression Of this commercial giant
OF the southwest, which, with its 100000
people, its immense pork and beef pack
ing and other great industries, has prac-
tically grown up within the present gen.
Grafton.
San Antonio, Texas, was our first real
objective point, and here, coming and GO
ing, we spent three days. This city, called
by some "a Joy to travellers, is located on
a plateau along both banks OF the san An
tonic river, $50 miles from the Gulf of
Mexico. 1t is largest city in Texas, with a
population of nearly 100000. 1t was
founded as Spanish settlement in lTl6 by
Don Domingo Ramon, and still preserves
many Spanish characteristics.
II was here, soon after, that the Fran
eiscan mission of San Antonio de valero
was established, and here, during the des-
perate struggle for Texan independence,
that Crockett and his brave companions,
in the defense OF the Alamo, died to
man. The Alamo, known as the "cradle
of Texas liberty'i is located in the heart OF
the city. II was purchased from the
church authorities in 1888 and is in charge
of a custodian who explains TO visitors the
tragic story. To visit San Antonio is to
remember the Alamo.
A stay at this delightful city is not COM
plete without visit at Hot Wells. These
Grlr nh I'm hs o ra cd f,,s+ 81 a.
city limits, and are reached by pleasant
car ride of about an hour. The hotel ac-
commodations out here are of the best,
and many northerners avail themselves OF
the curative properties of this water. The
waters come from a volcanic geyser 1000
feet deep, and have natural temperature
of loi degrees. The output is about 80, 900
gallons daily.
From San Antonio We took the most di-
rect route TO the City of Mexico via Lor-
edo, at which place our sleeping cars were
transferred to the National railroad, which
is a standard gauge every mile OF the way,
with splendid ballasting and fine equip
ment. Railway travel in Mexico is at
tended with all of the conveniences found
in the States.
AT New Loredo the Mexican customs in
spectors examine baggage, after which lit
tie ceremony, the gentlemen OF the party
called at the ticket Office and exchanged
their United States money for a double
amount OF Mexican money, turning in any
denomination they happened TO have and
receiving in exchange silver, gold or bills.
Someone suggested it was an easy way to
make money, by exchanging SO bill for
go, but when we began to pay our bills
in Mexico we found the purchasing power
was just one half, and we were none the
richer.
South of New Laredo we followed
closely the old San Antonio trail. which
was at first an Indian defile, then the
Kings bandit-infested highway, and later
the line OF march for the United States
armies entering Mexico in the war OF 1916.
The rails rest on the historic old roadway
at many points, leading southwesterly
and upward.
About p. m. we reached Monterey, the
second city in the republic. Soon after
we traversed valley and then mountain
canyon course. After the canyon steep
climb is commenced, bringing new and
varied scenery. Here we began TO see the
fiocks or herds of goats numbering hun
dreds, and in some instances thousands,
scattered over the barrenlooking wastes
That night, while we slept, our train
covered good part of the Alkali plains,
the dust OF which Sits through the win
dows of the car and covers everything, but
we sleep peacefully on, and in the morning
find that we are beginning to climb and
the mountains seem nearer.
A long wait at San Luis Potose gave us a
fine opportunity to study the natives at
close range, although we found here, as
later on, that ''distance lends encbant-
ment" to the Mexican. The groups were
very picturesque, il dirty. The peaked hat
OF straw or felt, the bronzed faces, the CAV
colored blankets of the men, the wares in