The Wenatchee daily world. [volume] (Wenatchee, Wash.) 1905-1971, 1909-07-06

vent of summer weather snowy linen
frocks in the severest Moyen Age
style began to make their appearance
at Longchamps and at the tearooms
on the Bots. Before Decoration Day
in New York these white linen MOyen
Age costumes were to be seen / the
smart restaurants. Worn with the
huge black hats that are the fad OF
the summer, these simply cut white
linen frocks are very modish. indeed,
and most Of them have touches in
black in tiny jet buttons or trim little
neckties.
The heavy imitation cluny and tor
chon laces are used for the long front
panels which decorate these Moyen
Age linen frocks, and, of course, the
wealthy elegante will order real cluny
and even real Irish crochet put into
her morning frocks of linen for cos
tunes, but the woman who makes
her Moyen Age linen dress at home
must bear In mind that very heavy
lace only Is appropriate. Embroid-
cries in the bold eyelet patterns on
cambria are also used with these
frocks and with these heavy embroid-
cries rows of white crochet buttons
are very effective
Darned net is one of the popular
features of the present fashion. Ear
ly last summer the exclusive French
dressmakers sent out satin costumes
showing yokes, insertions and some
times whole flounces of net darned
by hand in wonderful embroidered
effects. The more wideawake lace
manufacturers set Immediately to
work and now most beautiful ma
chine-made net trimmings are obtain
able at quite moderate prices.
The jumper. although in a greatly
modified form, is again in favor. For
merly the jumper was loose and bag
like. 1t had exaggerated armholes
finished with straight borders, which
gave an extended shoulder line, and
beneath 1t was worn a glimpse with
full elbow sleeves. The new jumper
however, reveals every line of Shout
der, bust and arms. The dressmaker
calls it bolera or cuirass, according
to whether it reaches the waistline
worn over glimpse which is as
clinging and form-revealing as itself
These closely fitting bodices are al.
so much higher about the neck than
the jumper of former days, and in.
stead of having the wide, sleeveless
armholes they show either the whole
sleeve beneath or have little half.
sleeves which reach to the elbow, the
guimpe sleeve peeping out below
While the new glimpses do not need
as much trimming about the neck
demand a great deal more on the
sleeves. In fact, the sleeve is now
Of paramount importance. and often
more work is put on it than on any
other portion of the bodice
Net guimpes may be bought with
attached sleeves. and some of these
guimpes might easily serve as blouses
so elaborate is the lace and tucking
which ornaments the body of the
guimpe as well as the sleeve. 1t is
much more economical, however, to
purchase the little separate half
sleeves and yOkes, which may be
picked up at quite low prices, and
attach them to a net foundation or
one Of inexpensive lawn.
In the end it is always much more
satisfactory to take the extra trouble
of sewing the half-sleeves and yoke
fast to a foundation of this sort, for
the loose half-sleeves are difficult to
sew neatly into the tight sleeves of
the summer frocks and the yoke or
chemisette, If not held down firmly
by fitted foundation, is apt to ridge
up in ugly wrinkles about the neck.
All-over embroidery is used for
yokes and sleeves to be worn with
morning dresses of cotton or linen
fabrics, and the finer Swiss embroid-
cries, which show dotted patterns or
tiny flower sprays, are in better taste
for such guimpes than the elaborate
eyelet effects. Where a very sheer
effect is desired for more dressy
frocks, tucked net may be used with
entire deux of Venice or cluny lace.
In making up summer guimpes or
sleeves Of net the washable sort