davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12
Useful Christmas Presents

buy gifts and what you want to give
each one. taking some pains to find out
what they are not already supplied
with. You will thus save yourself
from many mistakes. But as the
chances are two TO one that you can
not get just what you want be sure
to have several alternatives for each
gift on that list BY far the best
way is to begin the list long before
Christmas, and whenever an idea sud
denly strikes one OF something that
will be just suited to certain friend
write it down; then when the shopping
time comes a good full list will be
ready for use and the giver Will be
pretty sure to have Just the right
thing for everybody.
1t also makes the work of getting
ready for Christmas easier to wrap up
and mark each gift when it is bought
or finished if one has been making ic
herself, and have one drawer or closet
shelf especially for them Then all
the work is done gradually and there
is no rush and scramble at the last
moment.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12
R1OClAl AMENITIES FOR
I'd DNa THE SCHOOL, G1Rk

N IGNITY is the first attribute of a
/ lady, and it is dignity of manner
more than anything else which sep
arates one of high degree from her
humber. less blessed sister. Dignity,
however, while to a certain extent a
resultant of careful breeding and cu1-
ture, is often conspicuously lacking in
the modern girl, who in spite of all
her training. her education, the en-
nobling influence with which she is
surrounded from the very cradle. Is all
too frequently noisy In her speech, un-
graceful in her carriage, eager to at
tract attention at public gathering.
That she should strive for dignity is
perhaps a new idea to the schoolgirl
of today She is apt to associate the
word in her mind with grandmothers
caps and knitting needles, as having to
do only with white hairs and old age.
That the word could bear any relation
to youth and gayety seems ridiculous.
She hopes she will be able to be digni-
fed some day, of course. but not for
long time yet, and the day is not to
be bothered with at present.
What. then, Is dignity? Only natu-
raj quiet and repose that comes by
right when there is no longer any de-
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12

\VIHEN the time for buying Christ
w mas gifts arrives the natural in
clination of almost any one is to
feel rather overwhelmed at the pros
pect Of the crowds and the difficulty Of
finding just what one wants. The wise
and fortunate girl who has thought IL
all out beforehand and made large
number of her gifts will be far more
cheerful than the foolish virgin" who
has left everything till near the end,
but even the wise one will probably
have some last things to buy, and 1T
behooves her to devote some considera-
ton to the tastes of the people for
whom she is buying them
Don't, because you like TO read your
self, get book for your brother whose
main interest in life is sport. Do not
choose a handsome inkstand for a
friend who has no desk OF her own
but does her writing at the family
writing table in the library.
. The greatest help in making a sue
cess of choosing gifts is to have a list
of the people for whom you want to
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12

Of dignity and should be avoided and
carefully guarded against by the
youngest girl, lest some such little
mannerism should grow into a fixed
habit, which. excusable in a schoolgirl,
is far from attractive In an old woman.
Many girls suffer acutely from shy
ness and self-consciousness, and while
in some cases this takes the form of
making the girl extraordinarily quiet in
the presence of older persons. in other
cases the self-conscious girl will go
to the other extreme and in her effort
to appear at ease will talk more than
ordinarily, often too loudly, and in her
rapid motions and quick gestures will
render herself doubly conspicuous and
far less attractive than she naturally
should be. This girl of all others
should strive to cultivate dignity, even
If in her gentle speech, her quiet
manner. her reposeful position when
sitting down, her erect motionless car
riage when standing she at first over
does 1t and appears subdued and quiet
beyond her years. She must remember
through all her strict elf-training that
there is subtle charm, an evidence
of culture and of good breeding. that
is in no other characteristic so clearly
felt as in the quiet dignity OF lady.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12
Fans for Winter

= iris party fans are OF medium size
| 4 and sandalwood frames continue to
~ be popular, but while this long IA
vored mounting is either carved or
plain there is great diversity in the
manner of dressing it. Lace is en-
ployed to a slight extent. there are
charming effects in cloth of gold and
silver. few successful designs in hand
painted, delicately tinted silk or satin
some of them forming a large circle
when opened-and attractive looking
ostrich feather creations in rose, cell
nile or white mounted on ivory sticks
But the spangled fan is undoubtedly
the leader and at its daintiest when
made of silk gauze ornamented with
gold, steel. pearl or silver and mounted
upon sandalwood sticks traced to match
the spangles of the spread. Matinee
fans for girls have natural wood or
sandalwood mountings and hand painted
dresses of silk or paper matching any
of the fashionable street suit shades.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12
New Hat Holder

II AKING care of a hat when one Is
not wearing it Is always some
! trouble, and putting it away In a
box from which It must be taken out
every time one wants to use 1T seems
a great bother, especially when one
is in hurry.
Most girls who have a good sized
closet would much rather keep their
hats on the closet shelf. But to lay
them right on the shelf is bad for all
hats and impossible with some Va
rious hat holders have been contrtved,
some useful and some not much OF a
success, but the best one yet seen and
one that is really pretty. as well as
useful. is a strong spiral coil Of heavy
wire, the bottom being larger In cir
cumference than the crown OF a hat
and the top much smaller.
girl can buy these spiral wire
holders and make them look very pret-
ty and dainty herself. The wire must
be covered with ribbon to match the
closet fittings. The covering is done
by fastening the end Of the ribbon Sc
eurely to the lower end Of the wire.
then winding the ribbon closely around
the wire all the way to the top. Each
end should be finished with a bow.
The closet should be furnished with as
many of these holders as it's owner has
hats in use. Even a hat 50 delicate
that 1t must be kept in a box can be
kept in better condition and more easily
handled if one Of the holders IS used.
but of course the box must be much
deeper than the height OF the hat
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12

r UNIC effects are now so cleverly
designed that they are attractive
for all ages. A soft, filmy over
skirt of chiffon or net is extremely
pretty over bright shade of pink or
blue satin, and especially so when this
diaphanous covering is caught up here
and there to show the true shade of
the dress. Tunics are many and va
ried this year-in fact, endless in their
variety. Some show the apron effect.
others are more like loose coats slipped
on over tight fitting gowns. while 9TH
ers are simply overskirts softening
the color and lines of the dress under
meath. Again, of course, the tunic
is an overskirt of the same material
as the rest of the gown, the skirt
itself consisting of a full gathered or
plated flounce attached to the silk lin
ing.
While the effect of the majority of
these skirts with tunics or overskirts
plitude of material. there is. never
theless, no flare. This lack of flare
may seem extraordinary until one, Of
these skirts is examined, when there
will be disclosed narrow tape of
silk ribbon underneath catching in and
holding in place each separate plait.
But it is the waists of the new gowns
that are especially becoming to young
people this winter. Anything loose and
full is bound to be becoming to young
girl. and the soft draped effects of the
models OF the moment are all good. One
waist, in pale salmon pink chiffon, was
exceedingly attractive. The wide draped
girdle In salmon satin was carried high
up in front. while from each side of the
point of this girdle, wide, softly gath
cred folds Of chiffon were laid over the
shoulders, coming down to meet the
girdle in the back. A fat square of
white lace over pale pink was laid
between these shoulder bands. while a
thin yoke Of pintucked white net. made
collarless and fastened about the throat
with lace beading through which was
run a narrow black velvet ribbon, made
the gown both comfortable and ap-
propriate for dancing class or any
evening wear. The sleeves were tight,
finished off just at the elbow with a
three inch frill of lace. The skirt
was of the chiffon. put on compare
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12

sire for fun or spirit left for energy.
Far, far from It'll Old age without
dignity and repose of manner is in
deed sad, but no less unattractive is
youth that knows not the fitting time
and place for poise and quiet deport-
ment
There are many, many channels
through which the young girls OF the
present generation would do well to
practice more of dignity, and poise.
There is no wrong, assuredly. in two or
three friends walking arm in arm on
the fashionable thoroughfare OF a city,
yet by this simple action those girls
are at once rendered conspicuous. and
nothing which attracts attention from
the outsider is quite good form. Upon
the very pitch. of the voice. too. can a
lady be always detected In a street.
car or any other public conveyance, for
example. the voice should be carefully
lowered. so that by the person ad-
dressed only can the conversation be
heard. 1t is unnecessary and in poor
taste to take into ones confidence the
other occupants of the car "Repose
OF manner or 'poise" is another es-
seqtial mark of good breeding. Gestic-
ulation. grimaces. too rapid movements
these all detract from an appearance
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12
Card Case and Card Table

IF gold card case or even silver
one is too expensive, the best substi-
tute is brOcade or velvet, and this
fortunately, can be made at home al
inhnitesimal cost and no very consid-
erable trouble. The piece box should
be ransacked first, but if no old scrap
OF suitable material is to be found
there then an eighth of a yard of
brocade must be purchased, and from
this small amount can be made not one
but many such card cases, according to
the width Of the texture. The extra
pieces can, of course, be made Up for
gifts or prizes, for which purpose they
Will serve nicely.
In making a silk or velvet card case
four pieces Of thin cardboard about
three by four and a half inches are
used. Two OF these are then covered
on the side with a thin layer of cotton
wadding glued to the cardboard, so as
not to cause any thickness at the edges,
and just thick enough in the center to
keep the case from being too nat and
hard Next piece of the silk FIVE by six
inches is cut and the two cotton covered
pieces laid on this, and the brocade
glued down over the edges all around.
There should be about half an inch
in the center between the two pieces
OF cardboard, so that the case will
fold easily when the pockets are filed
with cards. This is the back or out
side OF the case
Next two pieces of brocade are cut
each three and a quarter by five inches
and the two remaining pieces of board
covered smoothly and neatly; only the
long sides being turned over the edges
and glued. this time the side pieces
left TO be attached to the lining Of
satin or silk. as the case may be. which,
cut to be Of the exact proportions of
the outside pieces OF the brocade, holds
the pockets just as the back pieces of
cardboard are held in place. Care must
be taken to fit the pockets evenly
with the back pieces, leaving the same
half an inch in between to allow of
the case doubling over. Before joining
front and back pieces together 1t is a
good plan to lay a piece of linen or un-
bleached muslin down the center of the
lining st the back between the two
pockets, as this VIII help considerably
toward keeping the visiting cards from
cutting through the silk Front and
back pieces are then glued neatly to-
gether and an extremely pretty card
case is the result.
If preferred this case may be sewed
instead of glued, but If this is done it is
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12
Dainty Handkerchiefs

THITE lawn handkerchiefs widely
M bordered with machine embroid-
w cry may be utilized for variety
of dainty trifies suitable for holiday
gifts. Four handkerchiefs laced to-
gether with narrow satin ribbon and
tackled upon a colored silk lining form
a novel cover for dressing table or
chiffonier of ordinary size. If the
pieces of furniture are exceptionally
wide across the top a double row Of
handkerchiefs should be used
Glove and veil cases are made by
forming a book of two handkerchiefs
lined with matching handkerchiefs.
padding the two sections with silk COW
cred sachets and then lining them with
satin ribbon bows.
An easy way to make hair receiver
is to turn one point of handkerchief
toward its center. join to it the two
adjacent points, let the remaining point
form a bow decorated envelope flap and
tack ribbon hangers to the upper cor
ner of the receptacle. Another sort Of
hair receiver calls for small embroid-
cry ring. which is first covered with
lawn. The points of the handkerchiefs
are then drawn over the edges of the
ring and tackled against the sides of
the little bag and the superfuous ma
terial at its top sewed to the strip
of lawn Hangers of ribbon match the
tiny bows, which punctuate the hand
kerchief points.
Two handkerchiefs joined at three
sides with ribbon, lined with colored
silk or lawn and equipped with hang
ers, make convenient little "catchalr'
for the dressing table, and four hand
kerchiefs similarly treated will answer
for a mending bag.
Sachet pads for shirt waist boxes.
lingerie bureau ard trunk trays are
made of Joined handkerchiefs. lined
with lawn and fitted over perfumed
batting. Usually a triple row of hand
kerchiefs form pad of adequate size,
but it may readily be diminished by
means of lengthwise tucks and in
creased by inserting strips of lawn be-
tween the edges. which ordinarily are
laced closely together with narrow rib
bons.
One handkerchief, cut in half, lined
with sachet sprinkled oil silk. the four
edges Joined and the center slightly
followed, will make an exceedingly
dainty pair of perfumed dress shields.
Square pin cushion covers made from
a single handkerchief require merely
strips of ribbon at each corner. so that
they may be tied securely to the un-
der side of the cushion. and oblong
covers need only be box plated through
the center. Four handkerchiefs, Joined
by a ribbon maltese cross, form a good
sized sofa cushion top. and two will
form an oblong head rest for chair
back.
II the lid of two pound bonbon box
is covered smoothly with lawn or silk
and then yelled with the plain portion
of lawn handkerchief. the border may
be shirred into a little frill of machine
embroidery concealing the lower por-
tion of a convenient receptacle for
short gloves. hair pins or manicure
tools.
Hand embroidered all linen handker-
chiefs are fashioned into invalid caps
by simply folding back one point,
catching it down with ribbon bow
and tacking ribbon strings to the ad-
joining points. AS the fourth corner
will extend nearly to the nape of the
neck. the greater portion of the hair
can be concealed.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12
The San Francisco Sunday Call

missible. The waist line is once more
in normal or nearly normal place. and
fuIlness is noticeable in all skirts. long
or short Light shades are worn al
together, white being decidedly the
favorfte for party frock. colored RIB
bon or ribbon work trimming being
often introduced as relief.
While the nets and chiffon are most
fashionable for evening wear, still soft
silks are also widely popular. and
where economy must be considered and
only a small number of frocks can be
had the more serviceable textures
should be selected. In length the even
ing dress should be no longer than the
day frock. save for the girl Of II or
over. who may be permitted short
train-that is. provided her hair is now
up" and ribbons discarded A low
cut gown is frequently worn nowadays
the winter before girl makes her for
NAL debut, but the more conservative
mothers still insist that Dutch neck
is alone correct until the debutante
year.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12
Embroidered Chamois Jacket

" NOVEL idea In fancy work for a
IN girl is to embroider a chamois
. jacket. These little jackets used
to be considered a necessary part OF
ones wardrobe, but they certainly are
not pretty and have for some time been
quite out of date. There is. however. no
other way of getting as much extra
warmth with as little bulk, and when
one is elaborately embroidered the ef-
feet is most artistic.
The jacket can be used as a golf
waistcoat. or, in very cold weather. un-
der a coat that is not quite heavy
enough. One way in which it is par
ticularly useful is under a rain coat.
for most rain coats are not as warm as
a regular winter coat and yet one some
times wants to wear them on q very
cold day.
Before beginning the embroidery the
jacket should be made to fit quite
smoothly Then it must have a pat
tern stamped all over it. This pattern
may be either flowers, a running vine
or a formal design. and II may be
worked either in solid embroidery or
in the simpler and easier outline stitch.
Another question OF choice comes IN
whether the embroidery is to be all IN
one color or in several different colors
or in different shades OF the same color.
If girl wants to have a very elaborate
Jacket she can embroider a flower de-
sign IN the natural colors OF the flowers
and leaves
The edge of the jacket can be finished
in two ways. It can be bound with
ribbon to match the embroidery, the
ribbon being feather stitched on, or IL
can be closely button holed with heavy
silk. This button holing may be either
solid straight edge or the stitches
may vary in length. making an effect
OF scallops on the inner edge OF the
embroidery
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12


= HE newest covers for a table are
made of pale green sateen, the ma
terial tackled fatty at all four sides
but a sufficient piece left over to hang
down and contain pockets to hold
gloves, pocketbooks, handkerchiefs or
lorgnons of the players. These pockets
are of the greatest convenience imagin-
able for women players, and the new
bridge table covers are now universally
used at all bridge parties.
To make such a bridge cover is most
simple, ard for a gift to some older
woman nothing surely could be more
acceptable. The size of the card table
is first carefully measured, and If the
one in use chances to be especially
small a square OF sateen or brocade
will be ample. When enough of the
material is allowed for 10 cover the
wooden edge of the table the ends are
then slit up to the wooden rim and the
triangular piece cut off so that these
ends will be quite fiat down at all
sides. The material is then folded
back and stitched at each corner and
in two or three places through the CEN
ter to form the pockets.
A band of ribbon or of cotton or gold
braid bordering the material all around
and outlining the pockets will greatly
improve the whole effect Of the cover.
II the material employed is not suffi-
ciently wide to make the pockets from
the square piece, then a separate piece
will have to be added beneath the
tacks which hold on the top piece and
the joining hidden with a band of gold
braid
AS a card table is more often kept
closed up when not in actual use, many
people prefer not to have the cover
tackled directly to the board. but to
lay it on only when required, fastening
it with small clamps at each corner.
For each room, therefore, there is a
different cover. according to the hang
ings in that room-brocade. chintz or
If for library, green felt is gener-
ally employed. A solid cover is un-
questionably best for the eyes, while
a smooth surface is the pleasantest to
play on.
Instead of clamps the material can be
so cut and turned in at the corners that
if it fits down perfectly 1t will. stay in
place fairly well, especially If there are
the pockets to weight 1t down.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12
NeW Stationery

Foreign correspondence sheets OF
water surface, in white. gray. blue and
maize, go into matching envelopes
lined with tissue of a contrasting color.
For the same purpose are creamy
sheets, accompanied by envelopes lined
with a fiorally printed tissue.
Especially favored by children and
quite young girls is a cream laid sta
tiopery bearing on each sheet Japan
ese landscape in natural tints.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12

Q TATIONERY novelties include
Scotch linen sheets and envelopes
- in white, dove, gray and gray blue:
white bond, accompanied by envelopes
lined with mauve, black or slate gray;
white dimity sheets, fitting into folders
lined with silver. copper, mauve or
Nile metallic moire paper. and for sew
eral mourning envelopes lined with
mauve or black are used with pure
white stationery.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12

demands certain height and more de-
cided grace of figure than is generally
seen on a very young girl. This yoke
effect tends to cut the figure, and is to
dress-that is to say, dress reaching
not below the shoe tops. The other
style OF moyen age costume. with its
tight fitted princess jacket and gath
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12

much in demand, but care must be
taken to have the proportions of the
skirt good, so that the wearer does not
look too long from waist to knee and
too short from knee to ankle, or vice
versa.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12

" YOUNG girls tieater dress is little
II different from any party frock.
Crepe de chine is a favorite ma
terial, and, indeed, there is no texture
so serviceable. 1t can be cleaned times
without number, and can frequently be
dyed after a season of hard usage, and
with the addition of fresh yoke and
perhaps net or chiffon tunic will be
disguised to look brand new"
In spite of the fact that so many
styles of dress are worn at the moment
there are some few rules that can be
definitely laid down. For young girls
evening dress short sleeves-that is,
elbow or three-quarter length-are
smarter. but long, collarless yokes are
worn unless unbecoming, when a boned
collar of transparent lace or net is per-
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12

band or cum Of this lace. A sash Of
pale pink satin somewhat lighter in
shade than that used underneath the
slip formed girdle, with long ends
falling down the skirt in back, fin-
ished with tassels of white crystal.
The so called medieval dress rein
carnated in this twentieth century re-
quires very considerable alteration to
be possible for young peoples gar
ments. The deep yoke effect OF the
skirt. with full founce below the knees.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12

- XTREMELY pretty are the gowns
Of pure white net made UP over a
foundation Of softest white satin or
satin crepe de chine. The overdress
is simple TO the last degree, but the
lining is almost gown in itself, with
tuckings, shirring. nounce and often
ribbon trimming. One such frock, for
example, Of satin under soft silk net
had a band OF the four inch pink
satin about the bodice tied in the cen
ter front in a large fat bow knot
while the skirt was adorned in the
same manner with pink ribbon bound
loosely about the knees. The net was
put on quite softly and somewhat full
about the hips. but was of sufficiently
clinging quality not to give unattrac-
tive width TO the figure.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12

The satin foundation was perfectly
fitted on princess model, the skirt
full from beneath the ribbon band at
the knees but narrow about the hips.
The net was finished about the throat
with a fat collar of appliqued brussels
net and the sleeves also had simple
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12

lively full on an underskirt of satin
of the same salmon pink. The chiffon
falling from the waistband was caught
in at the knees over a founce of the
same chiffon of about equal fullness
with the top OF the skirt.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12

well to border the case with piece Of
dull gold or silk cord. as this will give
a more finished and less amateurish
look when completed.