davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1909-02-28

those artistic ideals invariably to be
seen in the feminine portraits done
by businesslike painters.
fAs the ugliest types of ears are
those which stand out aggressively
they should be reformed to a certain
degree by tying them close to the head
each night with a strip of firm muslin
having large meshes through which the
air can perfectly circulate. If, on the
contrary, the ears are set too closely
against the head. several thicknesses
Of linen should be placed between them
and the scalp, until the fault is at least
partly remedied.
Whatever may be the shape of the
ears, their care is of the utmost i'm
portance. 1t is not sufficient to make
daily attacks upon them with sponge
or wash cloth; they should be regularly
attended to with fine soap and tepid
water mixed with benzoin. The wax
which is secreted by the glands of the
ear as a barrier against entering in
The San Francisco call., 1909-02-28

in a conversational manner, telling the
little home and social details. the
latest story, ad libitum and ad inf
nitum, remembering. though, that with
all of your ease and colloquialism
true elegance. while simple, is accurate,
and an ungrammatic phrase uttered in
rapid, exteniporaneous conversation is
forgivable. where it. is not when writ
ten, and, of course, the spelling must be
correct, and the writing not so illeg-
ibIe as TO conceal the want of this
knowledge. which, to some, is the
most exasperating branch of education.
There are few lengthy epistles, how
ever. written today. With telephone.
cable and wireless telegraphy
people talk frequently and briefly to
one another.
1t was different in the days of our
grandparents. when communication
with those at a distance was slow and
Iaborious. In those days the happen
ings of weeks. or even months, were
poured out on parchment by the sender
and pored over for hours by the re-
cipient; then the lady of leisure plumed
and prided herself on her ability as a
scribe. and her reputation as such was
handed down to her descendants.
So the short. graceful note of today
takes the place of the long, laborious
letter of our grandmothers.
There is much to be written in one
day of social life at the height of the
season. notes of acceptance and of re-
gret for many pleasures, theater par
ties. opera boxes, concert tickets,
flowers, bonbons, week ends, to say
nothing of the dinners. the 1uneheons.
the informal teas. notes of congratuIa-
tion and notes of coincidence. and for
many trifiing occurrences of every sort
and kind
The San Francisco call., 1909-02-28
Fancy Leaf Baskets

Girls who are in the country these
| days and who have an artistic eye
and clever fingers should go into
the cornfields, gather the beautiful col
ored leaves and husks of the corn and
sew them into mats and baskets. The
corn leaves turn from green into varie-
gated bands of brilliant hues. taking
on all the enchanting colors of autumn.
while the husks become striped with
lovely crimsons and puppies.
Bring an armful of these home,
wash the dirt off. and while moist twist
together four or five of the leaves. all
OF which are pliable yet strong, into
a rope, and then coil and sew this rope
into fiat mat any size desired. Sew
the rope over and over, putting the
needle in at the edge of the coil and
taking the stitches about an inch apart.
Use for thread a strand of straw col
ored raf1ia, the raffia being found at
any kindergarten supply place.
If you are skillful you can build the
mat up into round basket, laying the
coils on top of one another to form the
The San Francisco call., 1909-02-28

low. can be removed and cleaned. The
designs In brocade or lowered silk
which are chosen for sucn purposes are
quite decided, frequently a pattern be-
ing selected with fairly large set fig
iure, such as bright wreath or a stiff
bouquet, which will serve as a center
piece for the pillow. Then sometimes
the design is embroidered on a plain
silk. the net in either case being put
over the entire pillow.
Cross stitch in many varieties still
holds the popularity wH1ea It regained
last winter. Usually large pieces are
done in this style of needlework, the
designs being wrought in wool or
heavy silk cord. The old fashioned
patterns. stiff bouquets OF roses and
lilies. romantic scenes. etc. are very
attractive in this work. more so than
the new art patterns. which are newer
but not so pleasing in color. The cross
stitch work goes along much faster
than would at first be supposed on
looking at finished piece. Especially
is this true when the pieces are bought
filed in except for the design. Still.
for the busy school girl the making Of
large cross stitch piece is a rather
ambitious bit of work, and it is we'll
not to be too sanguine as to ones dill
gence in selecting a piece that is to be
done by a particular date.
There are many articles for use in the
boudoir or for ones travelling bag
which are not of the sort to be made
OF satin or brocade, but which should
be of tubbable material Among these
are bureau scarfs. laundry bags. etc.
and as a change from the linen ar
ticles which have long been so popu-
lar these are now being made of dim
ity. Bureau searfs. covers for the
,.ressing table, pin cushions, etc, are ali
made of this fabric. and. of course. to
match. Among the Illustrations is one
The San Francisco call., 1909-02-28
A
Peg
for
Misses

~4- HERE is considered to be SOME
p. thing amiss nowadays IN the ed
ucation OF a girl who knows
nothing OF the delicate and charm
fng handiwork which seems so appro
priately the work OF feminine fingers.
Time was-and not so very long ago
when for a very little while athleticism
and intellectual training seemed to
comprise all that was thought neces-
sary IN girls education. For a short
time many. young girls and their
guardians and instructors as well
seemed to be content that the womanIy
handicrafts should sink into abeyance
and to cherish a feeling something
% akin TO contempt for the frivolous fem
fnine occupations which resulted in the
manufacture OF innumerable dainty
handmade triles for the boudoir the
drawing room or for the personal
adornment Of ones self or ones friends.
But now all this is changed, and
there IS as much rivalry among young
girls IN the matter Of fine needlework.
stitchery OF various sorts, knitting,
tcrocheung and. the ingenious and orig
inal construction of objects on which
ones skill may be displayed as in the
days OF our grandmothers.
The returning realization or what
manual training means in the way of
general culture and discipline has done
something to bring about this revived
devotion TO the needle. Even more has
been done by the persistent craze for
hand work for all sorts Of uses. Then.
too, the making of these useful and
charming articles furnishes a very nat
ural avenue through which industrial
taste, skin. fancy and ingenuity may
.fnd expression. The fancy work today
must be genuinely beautiful and
wrought with finished art if it is to be
acceptable. Original ideas count here
as elsewhere. but perfect taste and per
feet workmanship are even more i'm
portant. and these requirements give to
the making OF handwork Of any sort
today distinct disciplinary character
which is appreciated by all educators
There are few things more attractive
among the modern girls special pos
sessions than her fancy work outfit.
The tools or her various feminine
trades, whether these be leather work.
sewing or embroidery, are of the finest,
engraved with her monogram and kept
in the most fascinating Of boxes bags
or tool chests. designed or selected with
regard to the particular tastes of the
girl owners. There are few things
more becoming to a girl than a golden
thimble. and. indeed, all the accessories
Of the fancy work trade are as pretty
md charming as the products of the in
Iustry. Even the girls who do not
much care about the work itself needs
must take it. up nowadays for the sake
II the attendant good times. The very
title girls who do not sew doll clothes
nd often when they arc older. that
ley have missed one Of the pleasant
st features of . being a little girl.
.omething Of the same sort of pleas
The San Francisco call., 1909-02-28

tions are in order. The ribbon en-
broidery is especially popular and is
most effective. much more so than that
done in floss silk, and at the same time
it does not take nearly so long to do as
does the embroidery in floss.
A touch of gold is always effective
i'll this sort of trimming and there are
always many colors of chenille or rib
bon, or both, used Small fine flowers
arc far more fashionable than large
ones, and there is tendency to have
the objects on which the ribbon en-
broidery is used as small as is at all
compatible with their purposes. Small
photograph frames in rich satins or
velvets, covers for tiny books, small
boxes for trinkets, needle books, di-
minutive bags for hand work, opera
glass bags, etc, are all to be noticed
in the objects decorated with ribbon
are so trimmed arc usually small and
are meant to be the finishing touch not
the main support, of the couch fittings.
Where ribbon embroidery is not used
for decoration brocade is popular. Bags
and boxes Of all sorts are made Of bro
cade, and there never was a season
more prolific of an infinity Of hand
made bags and boxes. Among the IL
Illustrations there are two bags, one Of
brocade and one decorated with ribbon
embroidery. The brocade bag is cylin-
drical, the ends being circles of card
board covered with the material. These
ends hold out the sides of the bag. but
they would-not do so effectively if the
bag were made of aimsy material. Very
heavy brocade is used, and this is fur
ther stiffened by a heavy satin lining.
cord, is quite stiff, the ends being in
geniously fastened to the bag by en-
casing each one in a full holder or
small bag of brocade. The tops of these
small bags are sewed to the large bag.
In this manner firm handle may be
sewed fast without much difficulty.
This bag is to be used for sewing or
fancy work of any kind.
The smaller bag, meant to be used as
fan bag. to hold also a vanity box
when one in going to a ball, is of pale
pink satin with an embroidery in faint
heliotrope, blue and green ribbon. In
making ribbon work designs on objects
which are to be used as gifts the favor
ite flower of the recipient is naturally
considered. There is no end to the list
of boudoir appointments which may be
decorated in this fashion. Cases of all
kinds meant to repose in the drawers
Of bureau or dressing table. as well as
the furnishings, which are to be ex-
posed on the top of the dressing table,
are trimmed in this fashion.
Another favorite fashion in needle
work this season is tie use of net or
chiffon, preferably net over a fowered
design in silk or brocade. On pillows
this is an especially practicable fash
ion, for the net outer casing, which
furnishes protection for the silk pN
The San Francisco call., 1909-02-28

To give a set style for the writing
of these notes and letters would be as
bad form as to refer the youthful debu-
tante to an epistolary primer, which
tells her in stilted phrases how to
write. and this is just what she wishes
to avoid; but she can cultivate the art
of written expression by a careful OBJ
servance of the best forms coming
under her notice. and adapt them. like
any other fashion, to her own peculiar
need and style.
For example. that which would be
quite natural and graceful for the dig
nified Mrs. B., one Of the leaders Of
her social set. might not be suited to a
young girl, and THAI which would be
graceful and suitable in accepting a
gift of flowers or bonbons would not be
seasonable in either accepting or re-
GREETING the use OF an opera box or az 4
invitation to weeks end. To quot
from that most frequently quoted OF
authors:
suit the action 70 tne word. the
word to the action, with this special
observance, that YOU o'erstep not the
modesty of nature"
There is this. though to remember.
however you may express yourself in
phrase or word. you must be punctual
about it.
a dinner Invitation should be ac-
cepted or declined at once. even though
a girls own plans should cnange a lit
tie later on. so as to enable your host
ess to fn your place at table This is
imperative and objectionable il not at
tended to promptly, as it marks the
girl quite unacquainted with social
usages.
Inc same might be said in a modi-
ned way about accepting or regret
ting any invitation. whether it be for
an opera box, q thearer party. concert
tickets, luncheon or a weeks end. as
the 1avor can be passed on to some. one
eise .I II Impossible to accept. and one of
the great benefits OF society anI o., -
ITS blessings-the word is used advis
ediy-is that It compels self-forsetful-
ness and the consideration OF others I'm
a way that nothing else does. unless
'ne individual be by nature a saint.
The San Francisco call., 1909-02-28

sects, dust and loud sounds should oc-
casionally be removed, lest it harden
into solid mass which may produce
temporary deafness
From its thinness and apparently
exposed position, the eardrum is. liable
to injuries, producing in its perfora-
tions or infammations. while the con-
cussion created by loud sounds some
times causes permanent deafness.
While the noise of a sudden explosion
can scarcely be guarded against, girls
of delicate auditory apparatus should
take the precaution Of inserting piece
of cotton wool into the opening of the
ear when aware that they are soon to
be exposed TO sounds like the thunder OF
an electric storm or those induced by
theatrical effects. II, after such expe-
riences, the ears seem benumbed, they
should Immediately be examined by an
expert, as deafness puts a girl i'm
mensely at disadvantage in the social,
domestic and business world"
The San Francisco call., 1909-02-28

III iris with scanty locks should
assiduously cultivate the hair
directly behind the ears"
observed the April grandmother as she
studied the portrait of young woman
Il a loan exhibition. Not only does
7ge soonest reveal Itself at that portion
4 the profile, but as the average femi-
alne ear is ugly it should be rendered
IS 3nconspicuous as is possible. Us
'sIly the ears are wrongly placed when
not too large or too small. too thick
n too thin. too broad or too narrow,
nd. like the lips. they are health ba-
:ometers. II they are exceedingly red
nd coarse OF texture there is too
.nuch blood IN the system; IL ashen and
transparent the constitution is anaemic
a either condition q well shaped ear
ooks temporarily ugly, whereas one
hat Is healthy-delicately tinted as
ae inner side OF a sea shell-looks at
active even though It may not con-
Drm IN location, shape and size to
The San Francisco call., 1909-02-28

OF pair OF pin cushions made Of pink
and white dimity. with valenciennes
edging and insertion and cat stitching
in pink silk With these there was a
bureau cover made in the same style
and an extra scarf for the dressing
table These dimity articles are es-
pecially suitable for young girls
room.
Leather work for amateurs has be-
come so very popular the last few sea-
sons that it completes with embroidery
as a branch OF the home handicraft in
dustry. There are many different KINDS
of leather work, all OF which. are popq~
lar. but leather applique and cut .
leather work is newer than the burRc.
leather. The book rack shown on this:
page is an example Of very attractive:
leather work. a brown leather design @.
being appliqued against cream back.
ground to form the decoration Ths.
work is difficult for an amateur. and: IT
is the sort OF hand work which ncs~
but those gifted by nature with siSin-
full fingers can hope TO accomplish sue.
cessfully. -
Sachets always form an important
department OF the hand work industry
because every one must have them, and
it is so necessary to renew them from
time to time. There are this season
the most fascinating sachets in bro
cade covered with net and satin en-
brOidered with crystals and goBl
Painted sachets are also popular. sui
as the little fiat one shown in the pic-'
ture. This is made of water color
paper on one side. with little Dutch.
maiden painted on it, and the batls is
made of pale green silk. A set Of such.
small sachets is considered most use
full and attractive gift. especially 'ie
care has been taken to secure the pre- "
else blending of colors that appeals to
the recipient.
The San Francisco call., 1909-02-28

ure is missed from the life of the school
girl who never does fancy work.
Just at present there seems to be a
cessation of the craze for sewing fine
white materials, linens, batiste, etc,
and working upon these fabrics all
sorts of designs in embroidery and
open work. There are always many
girls who prefer doing this sort of
work to any other and until last season
the devotion to it had been almost uni
versal, so that one saw very little work
being done in silk, brocade or colored
embroidery. But now the all white
hand work has yielded first place, at
least temporarily, to the furore for ar
The San Francisco call., 1909-02-28

ticles made in the elaborate French de.
signs of brocades, eolored satins and
handsome silks trimmed with gold lace.
ribbon. embroidery, embroidery in gold
cord, chenille and heavy silk cord.
For work basket fittings, glove cases,
opera bags, photograph frames, desk
fittings, pillows and half hundred
other uses these elaborate brocaded
and embroidered silk and satin crea-
The San Francisco call., 1909-02-28

sides. but the mats are pretty enough
in themselves. and no two are ever
alike, Tor the leaves are full of variety.
the husks shaded. and the combination
OF color formed by twisting the leaves
and husks together exquisite.
The San Francisco call., 1909-02-28

. HERE is considered to be SOME
thing amiss nowadays IN the ed
ucation OF a girl who knows
,,osbsro of @ha 5ofgcs+e - .,,d oh arm
The Hawaiian gazette. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, 1909-08-24
ELEvE CONSUL IDE IS
DANGEROUSLY ILL

Eleve Consul Ide of the japanese
Consulate General is in a desperate
condition as the result of an attack
of appendicitis. Yesterday morning an
operation was performed, which afford
the sufferer some relief, but there are
vet grave fears concerning the posi-.
bic outcome of the case.
The attack was very acute, as Mr..
Ide did not know that he was afflicted
with the trouble until it had reached
a dangerous stage. An operation was
quickly decided on and was performed
yesterday morning. 1t was successful.
Inquiry at the japanese Hospital,
where Mr.. Ide now is, elected the in.
formation last night that the patient
seemed little better.
The japanese colony is greatly
wrought up over Mr.. Ide's illness, as
the consular officer has made MANY
friends in the short time that he has
been here.
The Hawaiian gazette. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, 1909-08-24
BETTER TRAFFIC
. ACCOMMODATIONS
(FrOm Saturdays Advertiser.) J


Kaimuki is to have an improved
street car service. This was virtzally
decided upon yesterday afternoon at
meeting of the directors of the Homo
lulu Rapid Transit and Land Company
at which the petition of the Kaimuki
residents for ten.minute service was
considered.
1t appears rather doubtful If exactly
ten-minute service can be arranged,
on account of the fact that it takes
twelve minutes for the cars to run
from the end of the Kaimuki line to
the junction, but the sentiment ex-
pressed by the directors was that Kai-
muki should be given as nearly as ten
minute service as possible. The meet
ing of the directors was adjourned un-
I'll next Wednesday, at which time the
matter will be taken up again and an
effort made to get around the difficulty.
This will be good news for the resi-
dents of Kaimuki and Palolo, who have
for years been trying to get n ten
minute service. They have at times
been offered fifteen-minute service,
but have invariably refused it, fearing
that if they accepted the five-minute
reduction from the twenty minute ser.
vice they have had, it would be longer
until the tenminute service was grant.
ed than if they stood out for the lat
ter.
During the past few months Kai-
muki has been building up rapidly.
Many lots have been sold and large
number of new houses have been con-
structed or are in course of erection.
The residents, new as well as old, have
been urging that the street car service
of that part of the city be improved,
and it now appears that their petitions
have been effective.
The Hawaiian gazette. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, 1909-08-24
BABB|TT MADE
THE DUST FLY.

Quite a shock went through the
frame of Will J. Cooper, representa-
tive of the Promotion Committee at
the Seattle fair, when he visited the
Hawaii building on Sunday afternoon,
August /, because of the number of
very radical changes that had taken
place there since the evening before.
The cause was soon evident in the
person of Commissioner Babbitt in his
shirt sleeves, who was making the dust
fly. Lloyd Childs was also in his shirt
sleeves wearing a broad grin, and two
unfortunate assistants who had ven
tured to drop in, had been put to work.
Chairman Knudsen was there too and
was helping with a somewhat worried
expression on his face, for some of
his carefully put together conceptions
were being demolished. When the dust
of battle cleared the changes were
many and good for the exhibit. Mr..
Babbitt is reported to be very enthu.
siastic and he feels that the people
who have worked at the fair thus far
have made a good impression.
On Saturday night, July 81, the
commissioners had a little informal
affair in their building in a meeting
of school people who are connected
with the exposition. Many of the local
people gave talks on Hawaiian educa.
tional methods; Kaai's boys sang and
refreshments were served
1t is quite likely that Mrs. Mary A.
Hart of Alaska will make a trip to
the islands this fall after the fair is
over. Mrs. Hart has great deal of
influence in Alaska and it is thought
by some of the Hawaii commissioners
that it will be worth while to have
her in Honolulu for awhile. W. J.
Cooper is endeavoring to convince the
Alaskans that they should winter in
Hawaii instead of in Southern Cali
fornia. Mrs. Hart went to the gold
fields in 1902 with her brother and
located and worked number of claims
herself, and made good deal of
money. She is primarily a newspaper
writer. She has represented Alaska at
a number of expositions, and in Seat
tie she is recognized as a hustler in
organizing and running school work.
-.