Bryan morning eagle and pilot. (Bryan, Tex.) 1909-1909, 1909-02-07
FADS AND FASHIONS.

new style will be evolved, perhaps
even more than one, but what their
particular character will be 1t is i'm
possible to predict with any degree
of certainty at this moment. The
dress ideas of he moment are still
carried on in two different types OF
gowns. One is the ultra-clinging,
princess or semi-princess
dress, the other the draped dress made
in soft, limp, bodyless materials. The
one-piece gown is still the favorite,
although the two-piece and combinat-
ion gown is quite popular.
While the scaIty plain skirt is the
most conspicuous model seen in smart
winter gowns, other skirts are in evil
dence among the most recently made
One is the plated nine
gore skirt, for the joy of women who
have waited anxiously for its return.
This new skirt has no plaits at the
top and is stitched to the knees. Be
low that point the plaits are left free.
Another new skirt has five, seven or
nine cores, but has plated panels
set in the side seams.
Only a few days ago word came
from Paris that the killed skirt and
over-drapery were looked upon there
with favor A model showing such d
skirt found its way across the ocean
and was shown in one of the fashion
able shops on Broadway. 1t had an
old-fashioned tight fitting coat, the
skirt of which ended some six inches
above the knees. In front it was cut
away, and the sleeves were tight with
out the slightest fullness at the arm
hole.
Marked attention is given to plain
tailored effects and the Spring mod
els exhibited in the shops have con
siderably less trimming than those
of the past winter. The popularity
of the little demi-costume has brought
about the vogue of the separate coat.
There are stoles and hoods. all of which
follow the outline Of the academic
periods.
Extremely long tassels play a con.
spicuous part in their trimming and
they are fashioned from chenille and
knotted silk threads. This style is
unquestionably elegant and will con
tinue in favor throughout the Spring
and Summer
The majority of the women prefer
unobtrusive styles, something that
they do not get tired OF too easily, and
it is for this reascr that the semi
fitted garments have become popular.
They hang in soft, graceful folds,
seeming to outline more than to fol.
low the lines of the figure.
This holds good in both dresses and
coats. They are cut so as to give a
slender effect at the hips and long,
straight lines at the back One-piece
dresses are the accepted models of the
season and the styles are varied suf-
ficiently to give scope TO individual
taste. The princess and empire waist
treatments seem to be the most pop
ular and are widely accepted for the
reason that they are becoming to the
majority of the women. But only the
slender and well shaped women will
dare to wear the extreme Directoire
or the unmodified Empire gown.
The two-piece dress, known as the
Empire-Directoire is an excellent COM
promise and promises to remain i'm
vogue through the Spring and Sum
mer. These gowns have the waist
copied after the Empire idea and the
skirt after the Directolre. Then there
are three-piece suits. the newest OF
which are made with separate guimpes
in place of the separate waist, the lat
Ter being Joined to the skirt at the
high waistline An unusually pretty
dress of this pattern was of cashmere
of dark gray, trimmed with Bengaline
in connection with a coat of Bengaline
The separate guimpe was of net
tucked and braided
All toilettes of dress and of cere-
mony are of silken tissues nowadays.
Silk, rather left in the background for
several years. is pursued with a lively
ardor In plain silks and satins, in Of
toman, with coarse or fine cords,
crepes and meteors, to say nothing of
the silk-faced satin cloth and silk cash
mere. they present a wonderful varie-
~ from which to select material for a
costume. The draping. wrinkling folds
of these soft. thick stuffs, their col
ors. show changing lights like those
of precious stones, or reflect the me-
talic glow of silver, gold or bronze.
Fashion has declared emphatically
in favor of the long sleeve and where