Arizona republican., 1909-06-28

should occupy on the waist-lining.
While II involves little more trouble,
II is rather more accurate, particularly
Tor the dressmaker without great ex-
perience Even an experienced dress
maker will prefer TO be extra cautious
when she first attempts new style that
has some novel points of construction.
Ii is a simple matter to cut a girdle,
using the provided pattern and odd
scraps OF cambria lining Cut this care
fully, mark the perfOrations, haste the
seams and fit the girdle 0Vey the waist
lining, with the waist-llne perforations
OF the girdle directly at the natural
waist-line OF the figure.
Transfer these perforatiOns, and those
for the high waist-line, to the fitted
waist-lining by pinnlng through both
Innings at each set OF perforat:ons, then
turning over the edge of the girdle and
making a continuous line OF basting-
stitches on the lining using the
folded edge of the girdle as a guide
1 he girdle has now served its purpose,
and may be removed but kept with
the pattern for future use A well
fitted girdle support may be put to sew
eral practical uses.
Dragging the Skirt
The skirt is now 10 be draped to the
waist-lining. pnning Its upper edge 10
the line indicated Ior 1t on the inning
/ he skirt may be fitted, at the normal
waist-line, as closely to the figure as
desired, making OF the completed gown
I princess OF Directore model, as either
one or the other may be more becom-
ing. With waists OF the bolerO type,
tie waist portion usually overlaps the
top OF the skirt, even when the latter
is finished with i girdle IN either crush
or plain strap form
When a waist in regulation waist
length is adopted with the skirt into a
One-p piece costume, 1t should be draped
on the lining before the skirt, and the
excess material, below the traced high
waist-line. cut away. A high-cut skirt
mounted on its supporting girdle, may
be worn as a separate skirt over al
most any regulation-length waist, but
such an arrangement will result In sew
eral unnecessary layers of material
about the waist, and is hardly desirable
Tor even q slender figure.
The girdle-supported skirt is, how
ever, particularly we'll adapted for wear
with an unlined lingerie OF silk waist.
The necessity for an extra belt or girdle
is avoided, and there is no danger of
the unsightly separation at the back be-
tween skirt-belt and outside belt The
lingerie waist. being thin, will not ap-
preciably increase the size of the waist
Consider Your Figure
1t is by no means a hard and-fast
rule that the patterns high waist-line
must be made the same actual line at
the top OF every skirt. You may have
some deviation OF figure which, though
slight, has necessitated some alteration
fitting IN the vertical lines of waist
and skirt, and il is quite as important
that the few horizontal lines shall be
individually suitable The same posi-
ton OF bands and flounces cannot be
expected to be equally suitable for a
3o-inch and a 43-inch skirt length
Correspondingly, a shorter length
from neck to waist-line may require
that the high skirt-line be lowered a
bit. 1t is easily Understandable that a
stout figure may not gracefully wear a
very broad girdle For best effects, the
latter's breadth should diminish proper
Iionately with the inches that are added
to bust and waist measure On general
principles, one piece OF advice to a
stout woman is to avoid horizontal
lines.
B-eakin. the wsist-Line
The skirts high waist-line may be
broken to good effect by bretelle-like
straps, that cross the shoulders and ex-
tend down on the skirt. well over the
natural waist-line They should be
braided or otherwise trimmed