Evening journal., 1909-07-31
effective Csc
Of Soutacbe
Braid In
Ggyptian
Designs
. HERE is an astoniahing De-


mer. Every season toward
the end of spring several
models are launched in this material
by the smart dressmalxing establish
ments. but on each occasion without
much success. There is always a new
variety Of fabric. striped or fiowered,
to attract our attention. and the at
tempt TO popularize the foulard is
postponed for another year. For the
moment there is nothing novel as re-
CARDS silhouette or style to interest us.
so we are glad to repeat the creations
Of the day in the oft overlooked fou-
lards. The silk manufacturers have
given us this season many different
designs from which to make these
gowns The newest foulards are
copied in the matter of color from the
liberty satins that are so soft and
charming in tone. and the printed de-
signs recall in some instances the old
Venetian brocades while in others they
strongly resemble the quaintest Egyp-
tan hieroglyphics. Wafer stripes, sep
arately or combined, are also much
In favor. The former appear chiefly
in blurred white upon a colored
ground. / have seen some as large az
quarters and others the size of a pea
The tiny specimen is perhaps the most
worn. The minuscule white specks are
grouped in patches at regular inter-
walls. and their effect is novel and pref
~. The stripes in every dimension
have not the same prestige.
There are numerous ways of fash
ioning a foulard frock that make it
quite distinctive One famous Paris
house has sent over a model with a
double skirt, the lower one full and
semitraining, the upper one tight fit
ting and outlined at the hem with a
band of satin several shades darker
than the material. The band is re-
peated around the bust and on the
cuffs Of the long sleeves The yoke of
the bodice is in this case in cream
/ open worked linon. chosen in an art
nouveau pattern and made quite trans
parent without a lining.
But the novelty of the moment is the
tailor made costume in spotted fou-
lard, the creation of Jeanne Lanvin,
/ the well known dressmaker and milli-
ner Of the Faubourg st. Honore. Tho
long jacket of mauve foulard dotted
with tiny white spots has wide pointed
revers Of the plain silk above a trim
ming of small gold buttons and spher-
ical knobs sewed IN patches. This same
original trimming appears on the short
plated skirt, which is fastened with
a wide girdle Of the spotted foulard
lined with the plain mauve silk. This
girdle is drawn through a large moth
er-of-pearl buckle in such a manner
as to show the plain lining. The cos
tune is worn over a blouse of madeira
work, combined with tucked white
chiffon.
!
ever, of the tailored illz,ais in char
treuse green. covered with bouquets
and trailings of lilies, orchids, irlses
and leaves in white renaissance de-
sign. The medici empiecement and
sleeves give particular cachet to this
gown. The sleeves are made in two
parts, in plated foulard from the
shoulder to the elbow and in white
embroidered tulle to the wrist. The
plaits are arranged in a slanting loose
fashion right down the arm, while the
tulle is embroidered in a trellis work
design, and the same idea is carried
out on the square yoke. The bodice
is gathered rather full and joined to
the plain. high wasted skirt
1t is going TO be also great muslin
summer, of tub frocks that are really
; tubable, and there is a comforting and
, refreshing quality about the dress that
. has just returned from the laundry
that no other fabric gives on a broiling
day. These little frocks are generally
made up in one piece style, but the
jumper waist is considered correct in
all manner OF simple frocSs. Rufies
as skirt trimming are in first favor,
/ and there is no adornment easier to
accomplish than these effects by the
woman who sews or by the little seam
! stress. For linen frocks, which are
extremely modish this summer in pale
, pastel shades. there are stunning de-
signs for ornamentation done in SOU
: tache braiding in geometrical patterns.
Egyptian work is considered very
' smart, and sharp pointed triangles
p placed close together are a fine irnita-
4 ton of real Egyptian design The
t idea is to put the braiding as closely
I compact as it can be sewed together.
A most effective gown of the prin-
E cess variety in natural colored linen
that was recently made by a clever
| girl has a Greek key pattern carried
out in narrow brown soutache. extend
ing directly down the front Of the
r frock from waist to hem. The straight
braid in two rows formed a trimming
down the center of the long. tight
! e---N'
lar and narrow belt.
I Another frock of French gray linen
had panels of the Egyptian soutach-
ing beginning at each side of the arm
hole and extending to the knees. This
is a very new arrangement. and an
other new touch is that Of black satin
used on colored linens. Coats have
shawl collars and cuffs and buttons Of
this material And on these coats tba
buttonholes are made decidedly on the
I slant and either very heavily worked
or bound with the material or of looms
Of soutache overcast with heavy
D thread.
1t Is true that never in sartorial his
tory have gowns been 50 elaborate. 50
Costly ana Sc heaped with trimming
and bedecked with hand work vt
never have there been more possihiii-
ties OF achieving a chic effect with
simple materials and designr.