Los Angeles herald., 1909-09-19


thnre ia TO he decided chang"
from the exagge~otod styles u
last winter There Is sui
marked individuality, but the too
conspicuous effects that were becoming
to so few women and required to be' so
carefully made are no longer commanded
by Dame Fashion as the only possible
mode of dress.
The one piece evening gown is no longer
the only style, and in truth there are any
number of extremely smart evening
gowns now being made with skirt and
waist separate. There are dressmakers
who assert that only the separate waist
and skirt should be made up, but this vs.
too sweeping a command, for if the one
piece effect is the more becoming then IL
should be chosen, and in consequence the
modified Empire gown of last year, aodi-
fed to be on the latest lines, is not to be
rashly discarded by any means, and 1t
dealt with gently and carefully will still
be extremely smart. The sheath gown
will require much more attention to oe
brought up to date, for more material
will be needed to give the required thI
of skirt, and the waist must be more
clearly defined, even when the material
hangs from the trimming or folds of the
waist.
Once again is the long waist considered
desirable, but in the strange subtlety of
all modern dress the long waist line Isl
more suggested than emphasized, for all
though, as has been said, last years lines
are no longer in favor, the straight lines
have by no means gone quite out Of rtyle,
and the fashionable figure is still slender
and narrow, an effect only possible with
the straight draperies.
Skirts of evening gowns are much |
wider and longer, with the train almost
exaggeratedly long, while in front and at
the sides the skirt must be long enough
to more than touch the ground. The
newest models are most graceful and
effective, with their long sweeping trains,
and in spite of their added width are so
cleyerly designed that they make the
wearer look slender. Heavier materials
are used than last season. The satins
are of heavier quality, and brocades are
being shown. The fayorite weaves of
satin have quite lustre and look much
richer than last years, while there are
many old friends among the new designs,
but with new names. In spite OF looking
heavier in weight and richer i'll quality
these new fabrics are singularly soft and
pliable, so that they can be dealt with as
easily almost as the extremely light
weight charmeuse satin that in the cling |
ing Empire and princess gowns has had
such a wonderful and long lived popu-
larity.
r. HE double box pleats in the back, |
about two inches apart, are to be
noted in the newest evening gowns.
These can be fastened upon the waist
Just under the shaped folds or the fiat
trimming of the waist, or can start from
the natural waist line, hidden under the
girdle, or again the draped folds of the
waist, in this instance draped to give the
long wasted effect. The lining of the
skirt receives careful attention, and many
of the newest skirts are lined throughout
with chiffon or soft silk, the lining often
attached, not in separate, and always
of some contrasting color. most effec
tive model in black satin is lined through
out with rose pink. The waist is cut
exaggeratedly low and filed in to the
customary line of the low cut waist, first
with crossed folds of rose pink satin and
above the satin folds of tule the same
shade of pix. In this pink foundation, or
Just below it, as is the more becoming,
are bands of open work jet passemen-
terie, .-e passementerie enlivened with
countless rhinestones of the most brilliant
quality. A large ornament of rhinestones
and Jet directly in The front of the waist
also serves to tighten the perhaps too dull Il
black The sleeves. of pink tulle fit close
to the arm and do not reach to the elbow
and are finished by broad band of the
rhinestone embroidered jet The effect
is that of jewelled bracelet worn above
the elbow, for the tulle, or chiffon if that
be used in place of tulle, shades so closely
to the color of the skin that it requires
rather careful inspection to discover any
sleeve below the jet bands on the shoul-
ders.
" MOTHER of the new models dis
A plays an entirely new style. The
long skirt is of bright blue satin. fits
close to the figure without being in the
least exaggeratedly tight, is cut to give
quite high WASTED line, but with the line
pointed back and front and outlined with