The Baltimore County union. [volume] (Towsontown, Md.) 1865-1909, 1909-08-07
Specialize The linton.
LETTER FROM ABROAD.
By Rail to a Curious Old CIty-st. Cathe-
rine Of Sienna-Strange Customs
still observed-The Italian
4th of July in Flor
encs, etc. etc.

the square which is so big that 1t is twicea year
converted into race track-and the sunset
glow lighted the front of the old brick strong
hold, the center Of "Sienna the Red" making
the buildings appear as IL still soaked with the
blood spilled in ancient feuds.
Later. in the dusk / lost myself among the
tortuous Streets shut in on both sides and some
times bridged by great brick palaces with gothic
windows. Sometimes the massive iron gates
were ajar SO that could slip into the forbid
ding square courtyards which had an indescrib-
able, almost terrible. beauty in the semi-dark
ness all saturated with the spirit of Old World
mystery. To enter this strange city is to step
back into the middle ages. The environment
seizes upon you and makes you forget ordinary
modes of thought. Not single one of these
dark, towering houses, not severe and frown-
ing palace, not a narrow, sombre street, repre-
sents any phase of modern life. The few new
buildings IN Sienna appear themselves aston
ished to be in such place and seek to dissimu-
late their modernty by crouching in the shadow
Of the older structures. When, following the
maze of streets, you come by hazard upon an
open space. public square, you are taken by
surprise and it seems more natural to re enter
the twisting alleys to be swallowed up again in
the past.
Today happened to be the festival of Saint
Catherine of Sienna-the anniversary of her
birth, believe-so / went to see her church
which was decorated for the occasion. The
decorations we're peculiar. In former times
each Sienna street claimed certain individual
rights though all were under the municipal
government. 1t was something like States
rights under the National Government in
America. Each street had its heraldic symbol.
its standard. its chieftan. and its company of
men-at- arms who, when the great bell in the
tower rang its alarm in the olden days. rushed
out to cut each others throats. or to combine
against common enemy. according as the city
happened at the moment to be engaged In intes-
tine strife or in struggle with one of its neigh
Dor cities. These ancient traditions are still
preserved, the companies still exist as clubs, and
the ancient heraldic banners. many torn with
sword-thrusts and stained with blood, are jeal-
ously preserved. These banners decorated st.
GATHERINGS Church and in the afternoon they
were carried in procession to her altar.
would you like to see Saint GATHERINGS
head ~ asked an American friend, a resident Of
Sienna who had taken me "under his wing" to
show me the sights.
He led me to the altar and there, sure enough,
was woman's head, a CHASTITY human head num-
mifed, and worst of all encircled by wreath OF
fresh roses
But have learned long ago that there is no
crime against aesthetics and good taste that
Italians-particularly devout Catholic Italians
and modern Italian artists--will hesitate to
commit.
After beholding this edifying vision we went
to see Saint GATHERINGS house. I had always
supposed and imagine, perhaps, there are Others
who have the same erroneous idea, that Sienna's
patron saint was of the nobility; that she was
from the fact that her friendship and advice
were often sought by kings and emperors, and
that she moved with perfect grace as well as
goodness in the highest court circles of her
times. She was a splendid woman, with rare
qualities of head and heart, and possessed in adj
dition the gentle manners the good breeding
which more than one saint in the calendar lacks
| with painful conspicuousness. So 1 was sur
| prised to find that Saint GATHERINGS house was
| an extremely humble dwelling and she herself
| child of the poor-of the common people. Ny
respect for her memory was the more increased
| thereby.
FLoREEoE.-This month Florence 10 celebra-
brating with fetes, professions and patriotic
| oratory the fftieth anniversary of the Tuscan
| anniversary. It is the italian Fourth of July.
Last night in the Piazza della Signoria, the pub
lie square faced by the palazzo vecchio, there
was a great demonstration to commemorate one
of the famous battles in which italian volun-
teers, aided by French troops, gained decisive
victory over the Austrians. 1t outdid In noisi-
ness any American celebration have ever seen
and made our annual Independence orgy seem
tame
A platform had been raised in the middle of
the square and thereon were stationed five mill
tary brass bands One couldn't have done JUS
tice to the occasion. Not only were the horns
of brass but the lungs of the musicians as well.
Of in the far corner of the square was a smaller
platform where fanfare" was stationed; that
is a company of trumpeters and buglers.
hundred yards distant over in the Loggia was
second fanfare" On top of the Loggia, level
with the roofs of adjacent houses, was hidden
battery of rapid-dre mountain artillery. Two
or three cannon had been hoisted to the parapet
of the Palazzo vecchio and were likewise hid
den from public view. On the iat-roofed house.
tops all around the square were concealed COM
panies of infantry armed with repeating rifles.
Neither nor the general public knew anything
about the presence of these batteries and sol
diers, SO the surprise made the effect all the
more startling when they got into action an hour
or two later.
The celebration was to begin at O'Clock and
by $50 the square was jammed with people,
packed closely that movement through the
crowd was impossible. From to 10 the five
bands under one leader rendered Verdi con-
cert. At 10 there was an interval of silence,
while stereoptican flashed the announcement
that the bands, aided by the two "fanfares.''
would execute military symphony written
especially for the occasion by Mascagni. The
music was vividly pictorial; it made US almost
see the martial drama it was intended to COM
memorate. First we seemed to be in the pres
ence of an army of men, horse and artillery,
marching through an open country. We could
hear the tramping Of the cavalry. the clanking
sabres, the infantrys shutting tread, the rolling
wheels. the slow, monotonous beating of the
drums. 1t was all in the magic of the music.
Presently far, far away, like minor strain, we
began to hear another army marching and the
same sounds as before but mufHed by distance.
Slowly the two armies drew nearer until the two
musical themes were merged into one, then
ceased. 1t was easy to imagine that the two
bodies of troops were pausing to breathe for
moment before beginning the carnage. Then
suddenly breaking on the dead silence with
tremendous dramatic effect buglers stationed in
a distant corner of the square sounded the
charge. Before the echoes died away they were.
answered from the Loggia, and in an instant the
smoke and din of battle broke above our heads.
Every housetop surrounding the square belched
fire until the sky was hidden by flaming net
work of criss- cross rifle volleys. Every few sec
onds one of the cannon doomed from the castle
ramparts. The paving stones trembled beneath
our feet, and window-panes were shattered as if
by earthquake, but that was part of the fun,
and the city government paid for them next
day. Between lulls in the FREEING we could hear
the two rival bugle corps sounding charge after
charge, while the people in the piazza, crazed
with excitement, began to sway and shout. At
last the fireing ceased and away up above our
heads a single trumpeter perched in the high
castle tower, sounded clarion blast of victory.
Itseemed to come from the clouds.and a moment
later from castle window great italian battle-
flag was flung wide, while the five concerted
bands began the national hymn.
The effect upon the several thousand people
crowding the square was extraordinary. Many
burst into tears veterans tainted at the sight of
the standard under which they had fought in the
old days young men, excited to the point of
Mysteries, began to Chamber on each others shout
ders and shout the old battlecry against the
Austrians, against the hereditary enemy. Not
one of them at that moment but who would have
been happy to lead forlorn hope and die like