The San Francisco call., 1909-06-13

80 This standard suit but slightly af
UGNMNAE fected by the modes each season; in the
t&oHe&l girls well
those for children. the main difference
this summer viii found the skirts
regulation sailor blouse is always made the
same style which looks almost
equally well small girls. and grown women
besides this there number OF other attrac-
tave styles Of the sailor costume made by French
designers.
for girls from II years of it will take
yards of material. forty-four inches
wide. six to seven yards twenty-seven inches
wide. average suit. Three-quarters of yard
Of some contrasting will sufhcient
make collar shield facing. this seasons
wash materials that will make up satisfactorily
sble among cloths be mentioned linens. piques.
KHAKI. gaatea, duck, Indian Head, and percale.
Kindergarten cloth, too, is OF this seasons
children viii by be monopolized by the
Sun1ors 1t IS altogether too smart looking and
&cesbe TO escape the attention OF the who
are looking for fabric that Will wash satisfactorily
for their own untility dresses and shirtwaists.
It has the texture and weight OF linen with a
smooth. senigazed surface and is shown in all the
oolorings designs Of gingham with other
attractive designs Of its II is ideal fabric for
sailor or other chiIdren's subject to
The designs include stripes. fancy checks
and plaids
Sailor blouses may be made o open down the
front to slip over the head. Follow closely all
directions given the patterns seeing that the cloth
Tor the blouse is folded through the middle. the
length and the front edge OF the blouse pattern laid
this fold The material for the yoke facing is
out in the way, with the fold the length OF
the goods. for the middle OF the front
The lower edge OF the yoke facing is turned in
evenly. and in most wash materials It
made TO stay in position by creasing. Basting
necessary The facing is laid position blouse
few pins put in to hold 1t in place. then the lower
edge is carefully basted the blouse
front back
stitching edge comes next and one
IS put IN close the edge. and above
this one-ouarter or three-eghths Of inch above.
Take the hastings out before going any farther.
1t is excellent plan to entirely finish the
as one goes along t-st as far as possible 1t
longer in the end to work this way and the
3s more easily done and looks better in the end
The next part work on be the sleeves and
3n this regulation sailor blouse readily
seen that the shoulder is unusually long; this allows
large enough armhole
top OF the sleeve be straight, and put into the
blouse without any funess at all Be certain before
the sleeves that the length correct then
that the middle of the length is the straight
OF the The lower part is in paits and
the perforations for these marked the pat
tern. Before unpinnng the pattern mark correspond
ing dots the sleeves Lay the plaits directed,
haste IN position, baste the sleeve up and try
that the size around will be right
II II is too tight, slight alteration be made
two four plaits each sleeve. It is better
alter several slightly than to make too great differ
two. The plaits stitched close to
their outside edges; and if the machine a
threaded one the next step viii be 10 pull the thread
at the top Of each plat to the wrong side
curely, cutting the ends of, but not too closely.
Take the hastings narrow cuff and
put Flashing extension hens for
the length that the opening The under arm
seam OF the blouse well the of the sleeve
into the armhole. Holding the sleeve next to you,
and both sleeve and blouse wrong side out, pin the
sleeve TO position at each end and in the middle
and then stitch.
Take the hastings out. the right side of
the garment and crease the seam towards the shoul
der. The should overcast together on the
wrong side first The stitched on the
right side 70 match the lower edge OF the woke fac
gwe rSer~ erao
and stitched. making one long, continuous
These blouses usually have pocket the upper
lsft 'front.' and unless one knows how they are apt
&C be troublesome proposition TO put in. Mark the
opening for the pocket the blouse. baste to
the outside Of the blouse above and below the
the pocket slash, what viii be the front OF pocket
and stitch the basting possible to the
1ine allowing only SUFFICIENT slash; cut
st and turn the pieces through slash
Stitch the lower edge Of slash before the back
Of the pocket is put and after the back OF
pocket is stitched to the OF pocket bind or
the pocket is machine stitched fatty through the
blouse itself the facing inside. the pocket
erowfeet
The collar lining formed by Joining the pieces
to the front slash Of the blouse to the
neck line The back OF the collar lining is stitched
the neck OF the blouse and the seam is turned
down, being turned towards collar and not
blouse The outside of the collar Is than
based to the lining by placing right sides of the
material together Stitch the edge and turn
the collar right side out Press carefully and trim
It by stitching around the edge to stitching
the rest OF the blouse several rows of the
cotton soutache braid 1t s then ready the inside
finishing
The collar is finished on the inside by hemuinx
sts facing to the inside Of the blouse only allowing
no stitches show through the outside yoke The
middle front edges of the collar lining below the
point in the front slipstitched together and
tsior's crowfoot finishes the point the outside of
the blouse perfectly.
The lower edge Of the blouse should be finished
with 6 half inch hem Then, the outside OF the
blouse the middle of the width at the waistne IS
stitched piece OF lining through which to run a
draw string.
After this double strip of lining basted in no.
sition haste a piece OF broad tape the wrong side
OF blouse. each OF this lining strip first
turning IN the edges Of the tape being sure that
a end, directly under the ends of the
outside strip. Then stitch the lining strip to the