davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times., 1909-07-11

SI.25 To Baltimore and Return
Today via Baltimore & Ohio r. R.-Advt
The Washington times., 1909-07-11

GUIDES American Beauties
stand for the limit of achievement II
Rose culture. Fresh daily at 1914 F
-Advt.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10

can be made to do duty again quite as
satisfactorily as it did in the past.
1t there are no old attics to be searched
then loom can be ordered. They cost
from So up to 500, though the cheapest
priced mentioned are of the simpler sort
used in schools and not altogether prac-
teal for all kinds of weaving.
One Swedish instructor supplies heI
pupils with looms which cost about $40
which she imports from Sweden. She
says that though she has ordered a few
made here in this country, the cabinet
makers have been so long out of practice
that the looms they manufacture are
loosely built and not wholly satisfactory
The $40 loom is of all the most practical.
1t is 45 inches wide. of sufficient width
for narrow pieces and yet wide enough
for portieres, curtain or any other article
of household decoration of similar sort.
N the olden days our grandmothers,
who spent so much time at the loom,
made their own dyes. Nader and
cochineal, logwood and various flowers
and their juices were gathered in the
forest, and the dye pot, like the yeast
jar, was kept going from one years end
to the other.
In Martha Washington's time even she
used to weave and dye her own yarns.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10
Dainty Bag Coverings.

TT HE frame of a decrepit silver, gold
or gun metal chain purse will make
an excellent and substantial mount
ing for fancy bridge bag, which is all
the better for having reliable clasp
The bags of printed cretonne or OF
lowered satin have their patterns out
lined with soutache, silk floss or tinsel
thread, while those in plain materials are
decorated with embroidered monograms
ALI such bags should be lined with
hamois or soft French kid and so stitched
that rough edges shall not be in evidence
when the receptacle is opened.
Opera bags of cretonne or Pompadoul
silk are wide and deep, soutache, tinse
or floss embroidered and finished at the
top with several rows of shirring, through
which the ribbon strings may be run. The
brilliantly colored silk bags having black
satin Innings and draw strings are consid
cred immensely smart.
| Hot water bag covers shaped like min
iature pillow slips, with the open enc
shirred finely and drawn up with baby
ribbons, are made of washable pongee sill
matching the prevailing color of the sleep
ing rooms decorations. The small sizeC
bags intended for nursery use are GOV
cred with fine white linen slips, hand EN-
broidered in pale pink or blue and drawn
up with matching satin ribbons The
same idea may be developed in muslin
Embroidery.
! Melted silk hot water bag covering:
are started from ring adjusted to the
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10

AS rule young girls rarely give orders
to servants with the exception of their
own maids, but often they give orders for
their mothers. There is on one correct
form in which to do this. lou must not
say Mary, mother wishes you to go up
to her room," but, supposing your
mothers name to be Mrs Brown, you
should say, "Mary, Irs Brown wishes
you," &c. The formal prefix applies not
only to your mother but to all the other
members of your family. Never say
father" SISTER or ''brother'' to a maid.
but always "Mr. Brown ''Ir. Harold
if that is your brothers name, and 'tMiss
Beatrice" suppOsing that to be your sis
ter's.
Do not call or refer to the domestics in
your mothers establishment as "girls.'
The hired girl" is a phrase which has
been banished from good society, and we
say instead ''the maids or ''the women
when speaking of the servants, if they are
all of one sex.
When you are staying in other people's
houses never give orders of any sort to
the maids unless it be that one has been
assigned to you for your own personal
use, IN which case, of course, you treat
her as you would your own Otherwise
when you wish things done, ask permits
sion of the hostess to use servant for this
or that And even at the table you must
not request things directly of the maid. as
etiquette requires that you make your re-
quest to the hostess
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10
PRACTICAL TALKS BY THE
APRIL GRANDMOTHER

GEC LENDER, willowy figures are all
very well if they are natural" OBJ
served the April Grandmother,
who was turning over the coiored pages
of fashion magazine, "but the dimpled
girl should not fret if she is trife too
plump to adopt sartorial extremes. The
chief point about feminine beauty of fig
ure is perfect unity in the proportions of
the limbs and of the width of the shout
ders and the hips to the height. Conse-
quently excessive thinness, or, rather, at
tenuation, IS not usually commensurate
with the proportions of the average
figure.
Nevertheless if girl is convinced that
she has a superabundance of adipose
tissue she would best set about reduc-
ing her flesh in rational manner instead
of endeavoring to take it off as rapidly
as sculptor reduces a statue with a
chisel. The fat schoolgirl, who is jeered
at by her companions usually, imagines
that it is solely because her waist is large
and makes the mistake of going in foI
tight lacing. whereas she should allow
her figure full play, as it is only by hav-
ing an opportunity to exercise that the
waist muscles can be made smaller.
Many girl whose hips are too stout
is reaping the harvest of those vacation
days in the country during which she per
sisted in riding a bicycle when she would
better have walked-a form of exercise
which the plump girl rarely voluntarily
adopts, although it is the best means OF
reducing flesh, especially if taken in tn,
early morning and in proper garb. Thi;
includes a short skirt, warm coat, light
weight, loose underwear and shoes severa
sizes too broad and too long. The latter
sacrifice on the altar of appearances neeC
only be temporary, however, and as a
reward the seeker after symmetry will fine
that by affording the muscles exercise
space her feet and ankles have grown
simmer and that for ordinary purposes
she can adopt more narrow footgear than
formerly.
'4The girl who would like to be slender
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10
|Social amenities for ~
Che School Girl -

L is OF great Importance that girls who
wish to show perfect breeding at every
turn should know how to properly treat
servants. These dependents, either in
ones own household or in the homes of
ones friends. are entitled to courtesy and
consideration, and there is a well defined
etiquette in regard % them.
Some girls act as if their interiors were
not to be recognized except when service
lis required of them, and then adopt a
manner of naughty disdain, demanding
everything and taking the attitude that
the servant is a mere machine. There is,
Iof course, the other extreme, that of init
macy with a servant, and the latter atti-
tude is as much to be deplored as the
former.
Every girl of wealth in these luxurious
days has her own maid, and this domes-
tic naturally comes into close contact with
her. 1t is the maids business to be at
the beck and call of her young mistress at
all hours, but the mistress should remem-
Der that the maid is human and not make
unreasonable demands on her. 1t is I'M
reasonable to expect perfection, for none
of us possess it, in any capacity, and it is
unreasonable to expect an intelligence
equal to your own, for il the maid had it
she would be something Of a higher order
than a mental.
Politeness is an important part of good
manners with wants, and you are not
only served better when you are courteous
but you present to them model of man
ners. Servants are very initiative, and if
those who employ them are gentle, soft
voiced and uniformly polite they become
so, too.
One should always preface or end an
order with ''Please," and one should say
"Thank you" in acknowledgment of u
service. Do not say "Thanks," even to a
servant, as the word is no longer con-
sidered good form. Always say Good
morning to the SER ants of your house
hold and also to other peoples servants
when they are known to you, as in the
homes of your intimate friends.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10

STRAW confectionery baskets spool gold or
silver tinsel cord trimmings are most eff
fective, but more unique are the water
tight Swedish leather and French kid
baskets formed of narrow sections of felt
|cemented together $50 that there shall be
no seams), lined with fancy silk and
trimmed on the outer side with feathers
of matching hue.
Indestructible baskets made of the ar
madillo-a tropical animal having semi
spherical shell-are highly vanished af-
fairs which, when decorated with large
bows of ribbon and furnished with hang
ers, make most satisfactory receptacles
for growing plants. Almost as substan-
tial as are the armadillo baskets are
those made of stout withes woven into
the form of automobiles They have prac-
teal wooden wheels, fronts decorated
with red and green ribbon lamps, ton
neaus filed with dollhouse grapes,
oranges, persimmons and pomegranates
and are large enough to hold a small
child.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10
= Pretty Examples of Hand Weaving Including Bes
Spread Cushions Stand Covers and Porteres

treadle is pushed down with the left foot
By this means one heddle holding every
alternate warp thread is depressed from
the level of all the other warp threads.
This makes an opening or ''shed" into
which the shuttle-an oblong wooden
affair much like sewing machine shut
tle-is thrown from one side of the loom
to the other. This, it will be seen, goes
through every alternate thread. This is
the second motion.
In the third motion the right foot
presses down the right treadle. and this
makes a reverse "shed' between the lay
ers of warp threads. This time, with the
shuttle in the right hand, it is thrown
from left to right, which completes the
process of plain weaving.
When it comes to making borders, put
ting IN patterns, changing the texture of
the cloth and the like, the operation is
varied by throwing the shuttle of one
color back and forth several times ac-
cording to the demands of the design. A
third treadle forms different combinations
of threads also. Most of the designs are
drawn out on paper which has previously
been blocked in squares. 1t is usually
pinned on the loom frame in front of the
weaver, and for the beginner is almost
always colored.
Rows are called Shots SO that if one
wishes FIVE rows of blue the directions
will call for five Shots" and so on. While
the cost of bedspreads, curtains, portieres
and cushion covers of solid weaving is
more than for rag rugs, STILL comparing
the price one would have topay for hand
woven fabrics in an art shop, the amount
is very small
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10

1t is said she kept all her old, worn silk
gowns and scraps, dyed them the desired
shade, carefully wound them on bobbins
and Wove them into chair and cushion
covers. To a group of visitors she once
is said to have displayed a dress of RED
and White striped material, of which the
white stripes were cotton, the red raw
eiled chair covers and silk from the Gen.
erals worn ont stockings which she dyeG
herself.
To tell what would be the cost of ma.
terials for, say, rug 3x6, is somewhat
dimcult, as it all depends on the sort OF
material used. If a rag rug the cost
would probably not be more than 81
Ihls may be fashioned out of denim
Bingham. old or new; turkey red calico
stockings and white or Canton flannel.
Usually the material for a rug is cut il
one inch widths. though this depends OF
Its quality. Turkey red calico, for in
stance, being lighter in weight, must be
cut an inch and half or two inches In
the big factories where the machine prod
uct is fashioned there is in use a huge
revolving knife that cuts the cloth, after
it is rolled, into the required width. A
hand weaver. can, if she prefers, do this
at home. First roll the cloth very tightly
and then with sharp kitchen or carving
knife cut the cloth off in inch strips. If
old stockings are TO DE used they are cut
round and round IN one piece, the same
as you would pare an apple.
A very good idea for a girl who is
going in extensively for weaving, to de-
termine just how much material one will
need for a rug the size mentioned, is to
weigh the cloth after it has been cut
rolled and sewed, and jot down the
weight as we'll as the number OF yards in
roll Then, after it is woven, calcu-
late the number of yards of weaving.
For rug of denim five to seven yards
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10
Petrihed Rosebud Hatpins.

HE novelty Of the season in hatpins
is the petrifed rosebud, which is a
real flower treated chemically in such
u way that it retains its shape and color,
and, finished by a long pin of gold, goes
its imprisoned way for the use and for
the augmentation Of smart hats. But
these baubles are so costly that only the
few can aspire to them, and to satisfy
the general girlish love of pretty things
most lovely limitations have been invent
ed. These are ARTIFICIAL rosebuds made
of muslin in delicate tInts and then shell
lacked to give them the look of the real
buds after they are petrifed. One little
rose bug and sometimes two on the bud
add natural touch. These designs do
not have gold pins, but just ordinary ones.
and in spite of their beauty are so mex
pensive that every girl should have
several
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10
Fraternity Pin Watch Fob.

GIRLS who are The proud possessorc
I Eof fraternity pins OF who are collect
ing pins of any sort can make stun
ming show of them by arranging them t.
wear in the form of watch fob. Take
a. heavy piece of watered ribbon about
two inches wide, and, if you can afford it,
have one end of it finished with a little
gold clasp by jeweller, so that it will
look as the manufactured fobs do But
if you do not wish 60 make any expense
on yourself by making a slip knot in the
ribbon where the watch is attached
Then on the ribbon itself, which should
not be more than four inches long, put
your pins in one or two rows, according
to the number you possess. This fob may
hang from the belt or from the tiny
breast pocket Of your coat, the latter
place being by far the most effective for
showing it off.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10
Fancy Baskets.

RUIT, flower and confectionery bas-
kets of every imaginable size, shape
and color are profusely trimmed with
ribbons, crepe paper or artificial flowers.
Wide or narrow ribbon is wound about
the handles, ac-1-3 the covers and
strapped or bowed about the base in
every conceivable manner. Sometimes a
lattice work effect is woven over the en-
tire basket, the spaces between the lines
being filed in with tiny flowers Again
the baskets are so coarsely woven that
their silk Innings afford sufficient coloring,
and only the corners and handles need to
be decorated.
With the aid of small round porcelain
dish any large hat of chip or straw may
be transformed into a charming flower
basket by simply turning the crown up
side down, lining it and the brim with silk
or with muslin embroidery and sewing
ribbon handles to it's edges. For holding
short stemmed flowers like violets or lilies
of the valley there is nothing prettier than
"a porcelain lined, fat straw turban with
a fancy ribbon banded brim and tinsel
cord hanger.
On tie dark red, blue, green and black
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10

grows enthusiastic over it. As a pastime
nothing can compare with it. for it re-
quires just enough technical skill to make
che work interesting and presents such
pleasing problems in the way of originat-
ing new designs that there is practically
no limit to it's possibilities
There are a few places in New York
and Brooklyn where one can become
initiated into the mysteries of hand weav-
ing, and not more than six or eight les
sons are needed to start with. When it
comes to working out intricate problems
the novice will doubtless want to appeal
to the instructor for a little more knowl-
edge, but for the palmer sort of weaving
the principles can be grasped in a short
time.
First of all there is the question of a
loom. 1t may be that in some homes
there is such relic reposing in the attic
or one that has been preserved for gen.
erations in some old New England home
stead. IL so, so much the better, though
as rule the old fashioned looms were
more cumbersome than those in use
among the arts and crafts societies to-
day.
But if one be available and still in work
ing order dust off the cobwebs and give
it place of honor in some room that is
not already wholly occupied. Generally
speaking, with little ingenuity supplied
by the weaving instructor an old loom
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10

~ INCE the revival of the old handi-
craft of hand weaving by young
folks some charming specimens
of household decoration of the
"homespun'' sort are seen. In
many home the loom has been
set up in an unused room or even the gen.
eral living room where space is limited,
and the quaint sight of rome girlish figure
throwing the shuttle back and forth. just
as doubtless her great-grandmother did
years ago. is no uncommon one
For summer cottage with mission or
old Colonial furniture. or for the girls
sanctum sanctorum in the town house,
nothing is more charming in the way of
furnishings than the product of the hand
loom. So as these bits of weaving can
not be bought in the regular shops the
old handicraft has been taken up, and
girls are weaving their own dainty room
hangings. Just now, too, they are turn
ing out some novel and interesting pieces
as Christmas gifts
One girl has woven a "coyerlet'' in
hina blue and white for an old four poster
in pretty design of feur de lis and dia-
monds. and for the floor has woven old
style rugs to match. Curtains in deep
cream mercerized cotton, with cross
stripes of orange, have been made by
another New York girl for her own partic-
ular den. With these go rugs of the
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10

L is best for beginner to become ia
miliar with the different parts of the
loom at the start, so she can receive in
struction intelligentiy. The yarn beam,
upon which is wound the warp threads
which form the foundation of the weav-
ing, and which stretch in close parallel
from it to the cloth beam at the front of
the loom, is of first Importance. On the
cloth beam the weaving is wound as it
proceeds. The yarn beam should be made
of close grained, well seasoned wood. 1t
must also be well turned and regular in
shape. otherwise the work will be imper-
feet. However, this is something that the
instructor will look out for.
Beneath the loom are the treadles, three
in number. They are similar to the
pedals on a piano, End one of them when
pressed down by the foot depresses one
set of threads in order to allow the shut
tie which carries the wool to go through.
There is templar, an attachment of mar
row pieces of wood finished with hooks,
into which the selvage of the cloth is
fastened to keep it firmly in place while
the. lay is forcing the welt into place.
Three motions are of particular i'm
portance in hand weaving. First, the left
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10

fitted with powder puff bag, third with
an oval bevelled edge mirror framed in
shirred satin, and a fourth with toilet
pin cushion. When closed the fan forms
triangle, with top corners Joined by rib
bon ties.
A second vanity case is of circular
shape and three inches in diameter. 1t is
composed of two cardboard discs covered
with deicately tinted satin or lowered
silk and hinged with matching ribbon.
On the inner side of one disc is a silk
powder puff pocket having shirred hem
run through with elastic. On the opposite
disc is set bevelled glass mirror framed
in SHRED silk
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10

Priscilla type in yellow with white bor-
most noted of all is the portiere which
still another girl has woven in yellow
and woody browns, which represent a
small boy with pail gathering berries in
the woods, beneath which a quaint Dutch
sentiment is added.
If girl be especially ambitious she
can weave a most charming set of cur
tains with a valance showing rows of
little Dutch girls holding hands about a
Christmas tree and singing a curious old
song about the festal occasion. The
Christmas sentiment which is woven in
with the pattern makes this a most ap-
propriate gift for the holidays.
For the divan there are cushion covers
In multitude of designs. both Swedish,
Dutch and those of our own Indians, and
for the highboy, the bureau, stand or
work table an endless variety of charm
ing pieces that are suitable and not at all
difficult to do. In fact, there is very lit
tie of the hand weaving that is too knotty
for the average girl to unravel. The
main requisites are patience and love of
the work.
IN NY girl over twelve years can do it
"A after a few preliminary lessons, and
once she finds out how rapidly the
work progresses and what host of ar
tistic things she can make she usually
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10

las a willow should positively court oppor-
tunities for doing errands for elderly
Friends. That amiable habit will not only
make her beloved, but will help to van
quish flesh, particularly if the missions in
volve running up and down staircases, dur
ing which. exercises she should always
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10
Vanity Cases.

IAN vanity cases, twelve inches wide
and six and half inches long, are
composed of four folds of V shaped
stiff linen covered with figured silk or
plain satin joined with inch wide taffeta
ribbon. The upper edges of the fan are
frilIed with narrow Valenciennes lace and
several long loops of ribbon take the place
of handle. The inner side of one fold
shows a limited manicure outfit of steel
and mother-of-pearl; second fold is
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10

preserve perfectly erect carriage of The
head and never rely upon the balusters
for support for by SO doing she will IN
consciously adopt distinction of bearins
which will endure long after her figure
has lost its patiently attained slenderness
and the Directoire modes have faded into
the forgotten.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10

receptacle base, the meshes gradually in
creaslng in number as the work pro-
crosses. A satin draw ribbon run through
the bag about two inches below its upper
edge causes the network to form an at
tractive lacelike frilling about the stop
per.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1909-01-10

OF material will make one yard of weav-
ing. When finished rug Of this sort
should weigh two and half pounds,
Once the material is cut, sewed together
and wound into balls, the next process
is to wind it off on rod for the purpose.
From there it is placed on what is called
a winding wheel. frame that revoIves
rapidly, and from which the shuttles can
easily be threaded.