Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-07-25

uHeCIOlTe Styles, Sne Jumps cledE DdcK ten
centuries or SO into a medieval period
then thrusts her hand into her sartorial
grabbing and brings out a lively Louis
epoch OF frilis and furbeiows, pannieres
and patches-for all of these. the fashion
arbiters insist. are now on the way.
First hints to the eager have come with
costumes brought over by the big import
ing houses as samples for retail orders:
and those who fare to the Partisan cos
tune mecca may see for themselves the
new creations which are being launched
at the French races by the couturiers.
Nobody. however, should go into con-
niptions over the atrocity or absurdity of
new styles thus promoted. Everybody re-
members what a sensation was caused
by the sheath skirts when the couturiers
sent out these skirts slashed to the knee,
on their manikins. This was the ex-
aggerated first portrayal of the directoire
mode. and afterward modified to suit
the taste of conservative women. who
wore the graceful gowns of the revived
classic period with dignity and distinc-
ton. No doubt the Louis mode will
make itself heard ere long with some
publicly presented exagserations III the
way of huge panniers. short petticoats
or towering head dresses deliberately
puffed and powdered.
That panners. some drapery over
the SO lately lank hip line. Is imminent
IS evidenced by many of the French
frocks which show a hint of drapery on
the hips, or an arrangement of fiat trim
Inings suggesting pannier effect. The
very newest fad in Paris is the wash
erwoman skirt. which has the effect of
being turned up in true floor-scrubbing
s.yie' kiited pettlcoat appearing below.
The top of the washerwoman skirt is
really only an overskirt, turned back on
itself for several inches at the knee. and
this overskirt hangs over drop skirt
TO which pieating is attached just be-
low the hips. Sometimes the turned
back portion OF the overskirt is faced
with contrasting material which en-
phasiZes the effect
The very first fall styles will follow
the lines OF the Moyenne mode, which
developed with late winter. The chief
feature of this Moyenne medieval mode
is the elongated waist line. the belt or
sash often falling over the hips. The
fall models, however, Will cling to the
figure more trinity and not be as loose
and sac-like from armholc to hip. as some
of this summers models have been: and
this being the case. waists are bound TO
grow smaller. 1t is not likely that In
this sensible day women will ever try
TO emulate the absurd thirteen-inch waist
measurement Of Catherine de Medici. but
il Is fact that some dressmakers are
already advising their patrons to loosen
their corset wee mite over the hips
and draw ii in at the waist With the
vogue of pointed bodices, Vatican pleats
and bouffant petticoats established, a
change In figure Is inevitable and the
plump woman who has had TO make
herself uncomfortable 10 maintain a hip
less Silhouette may take heart of grace
once more. for the Louis costumes will
be particularly becoming TO her style.
Not that there Is any diminution i'll the
effort TO look slender Never was embon-
point in such disfavor, and with the
President himself. foregoing his lunches
TO reduce weight. systematic dieting is