Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-12-08

the last lew years the SILK blouse mas been under a cloud There seemed to be no middle ground between the lin gerie blouse and the sheer, dressy blouse of chiffon, net lace and other similar materials But now the designers are bringing the despised silk blouse once more to the front, and while a major ity of the dressy costume blouses are still in sheer materials, innumerable smart models in crepe, caehemire de soie, faille, moire and other more or less substantial silks are seen.
 These silk blouses are not, however, constructed on the old shirtwaist lines. Those are reserved chiefly for the tub blouses. The silk model of the bol. type is simple of line, distinctly tailored affair harmoniZing with the tailored coat and skirt with which it is to be worn, but it must have some origi. nal and distinctive touch which will set it apart from the commonplace blouse shoddily made and sold by the hundred.
 Caehemire de soie is favOrte of | the blouse makers because, while it has body, it is very light in weight and | lends itself readily to tucks and drap- ! ing. It maY.ybe obtained in all of the modish cOlors and shadings, so that al- most any suit material can be matched | in it. Rivalling the silk cachemre are the crepes-meteore, charmeuse, Rejane and dozen others which are all softly | lustrous, supple and despite their Ing
 weight, calculated to render excellent service. On these crepes and on the silk cachemiTe little hand embroidery | done in the color of the material adds immensely to the effectiveness of the | blouse, and a little hand braiding is | also effective. The latter can, of course, be obtained more cheaply than the em- broidery, and often good results are ob. | tained by using soutache or other braid in fashion so simple than any seamstress can apply it.
 ! Very simple little chiffon blOuses for wear with tailored suits are made in chiffon to match the coat and skirt, laid in vertical tucks alternating with quar- i terinch tucks. This tucked chiffon is laid over cream lace and is untrimmed save | for an inch band of self-colored satin | finishing the neck at the throat line or a little below and running down the left front where the blouse fastens. Little satin buttons and loops are set along this opening and a plaited frill of the chiffon falling over soft frill of the cream lace finishes the edge of the over l tapping front. The sleeves have a tiny under sleeve or cuff of lace at the wrist with a narrow band of satin finishing the oversleeve. There is satin g..u
 and a little guimpe of the cream | Frills and Jabots are introduced upon many of the tailored blouses and if not
 in creamy lace or net or lingerie are ! in chiffon matching the bloust>~material,
 with perhaps an under frill of white | plaited chiffon or lace. Many of these
 frills run down the side front, the
 blouse opening down this line, but other
 models open frankly down the front, and the frills, too take the center front, usually falling to point little below
 the bust line.
 The number of such frills, with or ' without stock attached, which the shops display IS legion, and although some O. l them are expensive others, quite as dain- | tily effective, are comparatively reas-
 enable in price. In almost every case
 the blouse is relieved by white at the
 neck. The day of the one-tone fad in
 blouse models, however, have ths shal- lowest of transparent guimpes, the body of the blouse often extending quite un
 to the base of the throat, so that only
 the transparent collar shows, expos but a few inches of white guimpe, The blouse moterial below may be cut away and filled in with self net
 chiffon, lace or other dark transparency,
 through which gold embroidery or gold
 lace gleams vaguely.
 A fashionable dress maker on Fifth avenue is now displaying in his parlors a number of afternoon gowns elaborate
 in fur garnitures. The materials are cashmere mousseline de soie and cash
 mere combined and soft lainage. On a light green cashmere there is band of
 skunk at the knees and another at the hem of the skirt The sash ends that dangle at the side of the corsage ep,- ploy narrow strips of the same fur, like. wise the neck of the bodice. The sleeves
 have fur cuffs so deep they resemble
 small muffs. Cashmere de soie is the material forming the body of another fascinating costume. The color is wat
 ermelon pink and the fur embellislli
 ments are sable. A narrow band of this rich fur edges the tunic which is
 cut to hang like shawl drapery, high
 at one side and nearly to the hem of
 the skirt on the other. The bodice is
 made of a draped scarf, with long ends falling in front, these are finished with
 sable tails. The yoke, collar and un-
 dersleeves are of Irish lace dyed to match
 Shadow lace is something new, aI.d
 because of its unobtrusive pattern, it
 can be used in great quantities without
 fear of overdeeoration. The pattern is
 woven in such way that an uncer-
 tain, shadowy effect is produced. It is
 especially lovely in black and cream.
 The black shadow lace is used over
 black net and a white satin underslip,
 while the cream is particularly effective
 over pale tints in evening gowns.
 For young girls white is always appro- priate> and nowadays the limited purse