The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-06-27

begins. plaits separately. The
skirt is pinned accurately to band and put to be
fitted If 1t measured accurately before cutting out
there will not be any alterations The seams are
stitched, bound together overcasted and turned
towards the basted in position and stitched
the right side. close to the The plats form
boxplaits the wrong side, give a graceful
spring" the bottom. The plaits basted down.
after the packet finished In the plat
each side of the should be basted from top to
bottom.
Put the band pin the skirt together. right
side out. so that corresponding seams meet lay on
table and pin the corresponding together at the
bottom Measure the lengths from the bottom OF the
waist, in the front. the sides. and In the back
Mark distinctly the skirt and then draw line
Meeting these points If there is difference in the
lengths over the hips, lines for the bottom will have
to made separately each side Turn the skirt
the line just drawn and try to see that 1t
hangs evenly. The skirt should be finished with
fitted facing around the bottom.
The basted together the same way
were the seams of the cotton pattern. In basting
shoulder always hold the front next you. pin
the seams together at the armhole point then at
the opposite end, and then in the middle On all
patterns the back of the shoulder
half inch longer than the 'front.' and after pinnng the
at each end stretch the front slightly
make it the same length as the back, then pin and
baste
The figure on the shoulder Is fuller across the
back than the front; indeed, there is often
than not hollow the front side of the shoulder.
and this stretching of the front the back the
shoulder to make the fit perfect there.
The dress cannot sink In and wrinkle A thin muslin
or cneese cloth Is usually pasted the wrong side
of each of the pieces of before the
basted together, then the basting of the
is done and the coat tried This Is supposed
to fit perfectly. the thing will be to stitch
all the seams but the underarm and shoulder
Il
An entire subject could be easily the.
making OF coats, and OF it to the pressing;
but suffice 1t TO here that the pressing depends
in good measure the success of the garment Pads
come for pressing these curved and the coat is
laid right side OF these. so that the seam
over the bust fits smoothly, and this should be
laid strip OF cheese cloth which has been wrung
out of cold water. lay a piece of heavy
muslin and press. allowing the iron to remain
long in place. Press until perfectly dry and IL
there is any gloss it easily be removed by slightly
dampenng the place and brushing the wrong way.
lightly, with clothes brush Keep the garment we'll
pressed as you working with 1t. Bust forms at
tached to for coat fronts can be bought all
ready to use: these next and fitted to posi-
ton and tackled edges to the muslin inter-
lining.
Coat armholes usually two inches larger than
a dress armhoe for the size, so the coat should
be measured around the armhoe and If only little
too small ii probably be stretched to the right
size where the In wooden materials
the coat be thoroughly this point stretched
and pressed In shape. An armhole must be large
enough be perfectly comfortable but 1t be
everything is satisfactory the under and shoulder