The Salt Lake tribune. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1890-current, 1909-05-02

and tedious process Of tracking him. footprint by foot
print, through waving grass, breast high hour after
hour, always expecting TO tread his tall and al
ways-dsappoipted,
In tho afternoon j had to ride to Fort Hall, where
and thousands of their warriors and women The
country is much the that traversed the
antooing Fort Hall is not fort in any military
sense, but the commissioners house, with ditch
around II, Jail, few houses and Indian bazaT.
The whole place was crowded with natives in their
most highly ornamented and elaborate nudity, waiting
for tho war dance.
This ceremony performed The next morning
Long before daylight the beating of drums, the blow-
ing of horns and the rhythm of loud Yet altogether
unmelodlous chanting awakened the wearicst sleeper
ana when at clock . the indaba began, the whole
naked, painted pnmed and gyrating humanity, which
10 imc as particular chiefs advanced with their fol,
lowers or as gifts OF struggling sheep and bulls were
In his war dress the Kikuyu and, still more the
MasIi warrior is striking, if not impressive figure
his native land. compounded into a pigment by mix
ture with the sImy Juice of the castor oil plant,
rich feathers others OF metal leather; armles and
leGlets of twisted wire stripes Of white clay rubbed
across the red pigments here and there old pot hat
or some European garment anonymously contrasted
with leopard skins and bulls horns broad, painted
cowhde shields and spears with soft iron blades
~ tour feet long complete grotcsquc and ndecourous
picture. Still, there is sleek grace about these
tive forms-bronze statues but for their frppery-
which defeats all their Own efforts TO make them
The chiefs, however, succeed in reducing them
selves to regular guys An, old castoG khaki Jacket
or tattered pair of trousers any fragment of wealth
cr-stained uniform. q battered sun helmet, with a
feather stuck lamely into the top of it, ragged UNI
brella; is sufficient to induce them to abandon the
ostrich plume and the leopard skin kaross, Among
their warriors in ancient gear they look ridiculous
and insignificant more like the conmonest kind OF
native sweeper than IT, hereditary rulers of some
powerful and numerous tribe.
Wonderful snowcapped Mountain
Aftcr'the dance il had been arranged that I should
e G& as If fa MaSr as the ] bank % Of the ana river to the
camp before night But when The whole splendid
panorama OF the trans,Tana country opened upon
! could not brng myself to stop short of the prom
Isod land and | decided to ride through to Embo,
yanced post in this direction We crossed the S raua
by ferry, which travels along rope under the inn
strong sxtyyard stream Of turbulent red water
On the farther bank the country Is really magnif
ture is always Mount Keuya, but there never was a
mountain which made little of its height, II
than peak, from an immense upland plain, and so
gradual is the acclivty that, for sudden out
one would believe it $4,000 feet high 1t is It's
gradual rise that mparts great value TO this noble
slopes raN ersed by hundreds of of clear pc
s kind Of and IN
known in the world, from the equator to the Arctic
circle,
The landscape is superb In beauty, in fertility,
in verdurc, IN the GOODNESS of the air. the
roy Of it's Vegsston the about Kenga tHe far
Surpasses anything have ever seen in India or South
We rode all day through this delicious country,
along we'll kept native road, smooth enough for BIZ
primitive bridges, On every side the soil cultl-
waited and covered with the crops of large and in
dustrous population. 1t is only years since reg
ular control was established beyond the Tana, not
without bloodshed by small military expedi-
tion. Yet peaceful the tribes--now that their
intertrbal fighting has been stopped-that white Off
GERS ride freely about among their villages without
carrying pistol
All the natives met with on the road were armed
with sword and spear and all offered their Gus
tomary sautations while many came up smiling and
holding out long, moist, delicate looking hands for
to shake, till [ had quite enough of IT, Indeed,
only dangers of the road appear to be from the buff
faloes which infest the country, and after nightfa
for this reason, and also because had eaten moth
ing but banana each since early morning, sec at
last the top of the next hill The buildings of
Embo, Just the sun sank beneath the horizon