The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24
P.IOTOS.POSED SPECIALLY
FOR THIS PAGE BY H.
PIERRE SMITH f:

almost exclusively by the best houses
OF New York and San Francisco, and
1T appears likely that the short coat
will have to wait another season or
two before 1T will meet with accept
ance.
The persistent note of drapery which
is seen in almost all the styles of the
season has influenced ev.n the tailor
made gown and the practical street
suit. On the tailored skirt 1t has been
translated into an elongated hip yoke,
sometimes oddly shaped. with points or
a downward dip where least expected,
over the hips, for instance, with the
lower edge in round or shawl effect,
and many unusual but effective cuts. A
number of versions of the plated skirts
are seen; some have plaits extending
all the way around. but q more popu-
lar form has the plaits laid in groups
with spaces between. Some have a
panel front and back and combination
of yoke and plaits at the sides; in
others part of the side gore is cut away
TO form a partial yoke. and pleats are
set In underneath. In fact, there Is an
almost endless variety of ways in which
the same general idea has been de-
veloped.
The serviceable tailored gowns of
this autumn and winter are made as
rule of the rough or shaggy materials,
the most favored fabrics for this pur-
pose being wide wale serge, cheviot,
zibeline, diagonals, homespuns and
basket cloth The surface of each of
these materials is hairy, the mesh is
loose and open and the finish is dull
Although they give an impression of
thickness and heaviness, they are really
light In weight, a triumph which the
manufacturers have studied and worked
for long time to bring about and for
which the women who have to wear
han rrr411 -
skirts are delightfully."-, comfortably
short, and as they are unlined thew
are ideal for walking and practical
service. Many mixtures are presented
In the weaves this season; two toned
effects are particularly good and some
smali checks are seen. The striped ef-
fects are as rule in one color only
the stripe being produced by novelty
of weave rather than a difference Of
color.
1t was rumored a while ago that
curves were to be fashionable again
this autumn and the stout women be-
gan to rejoice, but this was little
premature, and 1t is now evident that
slenderness of figure and length and
straightness Of line are still the things
sought after. The ideal seems to be
much the same as it was last year, to
give as straight and slim an effect as
possible, and the most attractive fea-
ture of these present day modes is the
generally conceded youthful appear
ance which they lend to the wearer
The coats are semifitting, or in
some cases they are as much as seven
eighth fitting. with decided tendency
toward narrow shoulders and straight
fat backs. At present the paneled or
unseamed back Is preferred, but coats
are also made with a centers back seam.
The principal change that has taken
place in the elaborate tailor made is
that ii has become more fanciful and
decorative than 1t used to be in former
years. There is a tendency to keep
away from regular coat seam lines.
The framed side gore, either set in
under the front or Tapped slightly over
il, is one of the newest cuts. This
generally terminates at or little be-
low the hip, and often an odd shaped
pocket is used at it's lower end. The