Evening star., 1909-08-30
No More English Models.

cussion in a convention of cutters would
attempt to deny.
No More English Models.
| plead for distinctive American
standard in mems dress. We're interested
in knowing what his highness of ex-
quis.te taste, King Edward. is doing. We
want TO keep our fingers the pulse of
foreign clothes-crafting But it's time
now for those to whom We are a,customed
to look for inspiration and leadership
to issue second declar tion Of inde-
pendence and secure the allegiance of the
trade organizations throughout the land.
1t would be f.uitiess without concerted
action. 1t is the only hope of salvation.
Right now the American man Of means
is baking at the graceless. comfortleSS
English models certain tailors are trying
to foist upon him-garments that bind til ?
body as with banGage till corrugations
are inevitable, and beStoW upon him the
same v!riie aspect as TO shoulders and
chest that a giraffe possesses. The fore
most Woman's journal in the country
comes out with A similar plea in the
current number. Our designers Of wom-
ems garments are comparatively no more
clever capable than our designers of
mems. In both realms the movement
Is bound to take root and flourish In
another ten years America will positively
lead the world in mems and wonen's
fashions alike. There. I've made a
prophecy, after all. Let it stand as such.
The most expert critics designers and
cutters are with me In that opinion.
The correct lounge suit for autumn and
winter is an American design. The most
interesting detail. from the standpoint
Of what l have been discussing. is the
shoulder. Here we see A high shoulder
seam. such as would effect. with the
usual sleeve, natural shoulder width
But the sleeve is new, with a heavy
head produced by padding. For the
1.xao tfne, i'm fsy
the shoulder we have been accustomed
to- and 1t gives the aspect of breadth
which American men demand. The sleeve
is bit wider at the top and narrower
at the bottom than heretofore. / find
the fol emost smart tailors who are in
favor of an American standard are ad-
vocating this shoulder as against the mar
rosHer English type. 1t cannot be claimed
by foreign designers, and might therefore
be rega ded as the first actual step toward
the establishment of distinctive Ameri-
can mode. We cannot afford now TO be
very radical.
Equally interesting is the contour of the
garment It's lines impart long-Waist ed
eFe,t, which is enhanced by a noticea BILE
spr nS over the hips. The jacket is short
measuring but thirty inches for the man
of average height, five feet eight inches,
as against thirty lone year ago.
Buttons and Collar.
Considering the details. the closing is
with three buttons, the collar broad. the
lapels long and of medium width tend
ing iowa narroWness and the bottom
points separated four inches and curved.
Worthy of particular notice is the total
absence of oddity In connection with
lapels, pockets and sleeve-ends. Flaps
and cuffs are taboo for the new season.
The trousers are of moderate dimensions,
full at the hips and measuring twenty-one
inches at the knee and seventeen and a
half inches at the bottom. Turn-upS are
indorsed for autumn. but not for winter.
We shall see some very pronounced pat
terms worn by the club set. Some of them
are of the kind dubbed sporty in late
years. Plaids are once more in the as
tendency. Gray is the approved shade.
and In addition to the gray plaid in the
texture there is a plaid of color. par
ticular preference being indicated for a
widely spaced yet inconsp'cuous surface
plaid of red. Thus with the bolder pat
terms the leaning toward striking effects
is recognized without retaining the out
spoken colorfuiness observed during the
vogue of b.oun and green. Rough
fabrics, especially cheviots, are again to
the fore.
From re&nt indications we may expect
a return to the cape overcoat ION oc-
casion this coming winter. Some few
Of social standing were favorably
enough inclined toward it TO wear it the
latter part of the last season. 1t is
sane step. For grace of drape and
patrician air the Inverness has no peer.
It is the only outer covering distinctly
formal 1t never has been, and doubtless
never will be, overdone by excessive
popularity. Some folks who give serious
thought to the evolution of dress lay
stress upon the approval of capes by
women, and believe that fact will exert
a favorable influence. | do not consider
it as having ever passed out entirely. or
as having descended 10 the point where
we'd call 1t incorrect. for some we'll
dressed men have stuck to it. mostly
elderly men. But the thing that COM
mends 1t most in my eyes is its roominess
about the shoulders. The Chesterfield and
the paletot are very liable to cramp ones
swallowtail coat to the extent of bulsing
and mussng it. a difficulty you do not
experience with the comfortable and
slightly Inverness.