davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-07

sleeves are also very much to the front,
and In many cases net or lace guimpe
is worn to supply these two features of
the waist
Although It frequently happens that
the waist and skirt are made separate,
they are generally both of one color If
not OF the same material, so as to give
the effect OF a one piece dress. Chiffon
or chiffon cloth is often used for the
bodice of tailored gown, matching 1t
exactly in hue, so that the suit is still
complete even when the coat is Off
Quite as important or even more so
than the dressy costumes are the Sc
verely plain. practical tailor mades. The
skirts OF these suits are OF medium
width. and are sometimes gored, but
are more often pleated, or are a COM
bination of cores and panels, either
plain or laid in pleats. Most of these
skirts for street wear clear the ground
by at least two inches.
The long waisted effect is seen on
some of the tailored coats, and is often
gained by a crosswise arrangement of
the braiding or trimming. This cutting
across the vertical lines, which is so
characteristic of the modes of the sea-
son, is all very well for the tall and
slender type, for whom, by the way,
most of the fashions seem to be de-
signed, but IT gives an unpleasantly
broad effect to a short figure, and II Is
to be hoped that women of this build
Will avoid gowns that have the very
long waisted lines.
Besides the new colors which have
been invented for this season, some of
the older favorites will be quite as
fashionable. The list includes the ever
serviceable navy blue, Copenhagen in a
medium shade, London smoke (gray),
champagne. wistaria, taupe, many of
the dull greens and black. Black is to
be worn great deal this year, and
few accenting touches of 1T will be
found on suits of other colors.
With the wearing of short skirts the
question of shoes comes prominently
into notice. Fortunately, there has
never been time when the shoes were
more stylish and at the same time more
comfortable than they are at present.
The accepted type of footwear for use
with tailored gowns is the mannish
last. high buttoned shoe, with a me-
dium military heel and soles about a
quarter of an inch thick. These shoes
may be Of calf with a perforated toe
cap, or. II one prefers, they may have
a perforation all around the vamp; or
the shoes may be of patent leather,
with the uppers OF dull kid or calfskin
With the dressy tailor mades 1t is per-
missible to wear black patent feathers,
with uppers of gray or brown suede to
match the costume. although the all
black shoes are standard and always in
good taste.
The dress hats this season have many
plumes, birds OF paradise and aigrettes
as their trimming, but the tailored hats
confne themselves to simple folds and
bows of silk or velvet and to plain
birds and wings. The elaborate tailor
made may be topped with hat that is
rather more richly trimmed than the
strictly tailored models. but If anything
very dressy be worn 1t is always done
apologetically and with the feeling on
ths wearer's part that it is not just the
right thing,
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-07

Il =. :: & = 8; 3. {: .:: :: 4:
come so commonized in the
east that the really well dressed
women viii not wear them. yet IT is
impossible 20 ignore fashion which
is seen so often here this fall. and not
infrequentiy on women who can fairly
claim to dress In good taste and style.
The college suit" seems to have
claimed for its own most OF the slender
young girls of high school age, and to
many OF these straight 1.-THE figures
the close fitting. jerseyesque garment,
with it's short pleatec skirt, is vastly
becoming. The only trouble IS that,
just as in the east, the fashion will
probably be overdone and worn too
commonly. Besides this, IT will be
worn by the wrong women and made
ridiculous and will fall into disfavor
by their means. Already we have seen
women Of an older and heavier type
wearing these closely nodded garments.
and the effect has been in some cases
merely ugly and in others absurd. Only
very slim and graceful figures can af-
ford TO wear them; women OF redund-
ant curves look in them like Madame
Nordica as Brunhilde, which is all very
well for the stage. but not exactly
suitable for shopping. The gown in the
moyen age style shown in the illustra-
ton is less trying than many garments
OF this type because Of the vertical
tucks OF which the bodice is composed,
which give q straight up and down ap-
pearance TO the wearer.
There are many varieties of the cui-
rass to be seen, most of them very
long and tight fitting and with the
lower edge cut IN various shapes, some
with and some without panels, and
either even all around, or shorter at
the front or at the back. AS a rule
tunics are longer in the back than in
front and many show a pointed shawl
effect which gives the figure a slender
appearance.
Many of the house gowns have a bib
arrangement on the bodice: this is SIM
ply a version or modification Of the
cuirass. 1t is really deep girdle con-
tinued upward into a square or round
ing tab, which fastens on the bodice,
fnvisibly or with buttons. Sometimes
the girdle is separate from the bib and
fastens over it. Very often with the
bib waist fshwife draperies are used
on the skirt; these are occasionally in
straight tunic effect, with the lower
edge of the tunic turned up a few
inches all around, or they are cut in
variety of shapes and caught up in a
number OF different ways.
Semiprincess models are very popular
for afternoon and evening wear, and as
most of the gowns are made of soft,
supple materials, the draped effects are
more often chosen than any others.
We are told that there is more of a
tendency toward contrasting colors in
the embroideries and trimmings than
there was earlier in the season, when
self colored effects prevailed. The
metals and black were used from the
beginning, but now the other colors are
to be seen in combination, and they
lend charm and variety to the gowns.
Small yoke effects are popular this
winter and are to be seen on almost all
OF the COWS; they aid a great deal in
making dark dresses becoming; half
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-07

The styles OF the moment show SO
much variety and allow of so wide a
choice in their selection that there is
no need of any woman wearing unbe-
coming garments In order to be fash
ionably dressed. According to the re-
quirements of her figure or her own
taste, she can wear her skirts either
long or short, and she may choose be-
tween plated, gathered or tunic ef-
fects. If sashes suit the material and
style of the gown, they may be worn,
or IL not they may be omitted. The
waist line may be high or normal or
dropped, and the bodice loosely draped
or tight fitting. according to the choice
of the wearer, and the sleeves may be
tight or puffed at the elbow or made OF
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-07

a series of pufrs, whichever she prefers.
OF course, the sleeves must be In keep
ing with the waist. and the waist with
the skirt. Too fluffy sleeve would be
out of character with a bodice cut on
full skirt look well with this sort OF a
waist. for the same general plan must
be carried out in all the different parts
Of the gown.
IT every woman would study her own
style when she makes selection of her
clothes instead of choosing whatever
models happen to strike her fancy,
without regard to their suitability to
her own peculiar needs, some OF them
would be better dressed. The short,
stout woman would realize then that
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-07
From I. Magnin & Co.

Dress hat of champagne MORE
faced with black velvet trimming
.of self colored aigrettes.
Afternoon gown of mulberry
crepe meteof; untlersleeves OF
mulberry chiffon. yoke and cuffs
and cream lace run with silk
Tunic effect in front and back
connected by strap of material
at the sides.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-07
From Roos Bros

Madame Julia French turban.
ilaok velvet faced with red: trim
med with knot OF red velvet and
ostrich fancy.
Black chiffon broadcloth suit;
semi-ftting 48 inch coat, with
velvet collar and cuffs Skirt with
pleats arranged in groups
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-07
From The White House.

From The White House.
Black Clipped beaver hat. with
t,vo toned gold ostrich pluInes.
Draped afternoon gown OF
cachemire dc sole trimmed with
black: net yoke and hall sleeves
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-07
rom O'Connor Nloffatt & {

Large chamois Barrymore
hat. faced with black :velves
canary colored bird OF paradise.
Moyen Age gown OF black pean
de cygne. bolero effect on bodice
and band below the hips of fine
rat-tail braiding and embroidery
Pieated skirt. net yoke and lower
sleeves.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-07

NFRE have been told repeatedly
that the moyen age styles
Wv have been overworked and be-
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
Game Between varsity and
Cadets Saturday Should be
Battle to the Finish

practice at Traction park at $3.50 this
afternoon. A final practice viii be
held either Friday morning or early
Friday afternoon. although the work
Friday will not be heavy enough TO
put any of the men out of commission,
and ii Is expected that the pick Of the
twenty men will be in the game Sat
urdaY. Besides giving them an OPP
p%ortunity to redeem themselves for
Tuesdays defeat, the varsity viii have
a chance Saturday to demonstrate just
what they can do in a big game.
Their showing saturday will be q
criterion of what they viii do against
the University of Colorado in Boul-
der and against the University of Ari-
zOna in Tucson. Boulder has a splen-
did team this year, as also has Ari-
The Ell Paso team which plays
here saturday. however, has q num-
Der of old heads in the game and
could probably make a good showing
against either Colorado or Arizona.
L. y. VI, eleven is especially anX-
ious to take q fall out Of the cadets,
just to let the Boulder and Tucson
aggregations hear that the New Mex
leo bunch is up and doing.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
FORTY PERSISTED IN
WRECK Of
HEST|A
Six Half Starved Sailors Taken
from Rigging Monday Only
Survivors of Crew of III Fated
Liner.


iBy Morning journal Special Leased Wire
PASSPORT, Me. oct. 27.-SiX men
who, half starved and henumbed from
perilous position in the rigging Of the
steamer Hestia Monday. are believed
tonight To be the only survivors of the
fl men and boys who were aboard
the Donaldson liner when she struck
the jagged old Proprietor ledge off
Seal Cove, Grand Manan island, Mon
day morning.
Three bodies came ashore on the
southwest shore of Nova Scotia today,
two in a boat which driftcd on the
beach rear Yarmouth. ana the third
in another o which was found near
salmon river.
Recovering somewhat from their
experience the rescued men were able
TO give more definite information re
garding what took place after the
steamer vent on the edge. Third
Mate Stewart said the Hestia reached
the end of her last voyage Monday
morning instead of Tuesday morning.
as had previously been supposed, and
that he and his five companions. who
were unable to find places in the
boats which were launched when Il
decided to abandon the ship, re-
manned dashed TO the rigging for thir-
ty-e'ght hours without food or water
before they were taken OF by life saw
eIs.
So far az can be a~scertained. those
ON board the Hestia comprised Cap
tain Newman. a crew of thirty-flve.
three cattlcIncn and two BOYS.
Thc revised list makes a total Of
thirty names, but il is believed there
were ut least ten more whose James
not known here.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
EXPECT NEW RECORD AT
VANDERBILT CUP RACE

New York. Oct. 27.~-"This years
Vanderbilt cup race will be the best,
fastest and safest contest of the kind
Yer held in this country says w. W.
Vanderbilt, il, today. after he had
watched some of the drivers out fol
trial spins preparatory to Saturdays
event.
Il am convinced a new American
road record Will be made by the win
ner. The altering OF conditions OF
the race so that only stock ears viii
compete this year, is, in my opinion, q
distinct advance. Under the new rules
the contest viii show that the Ameri-
can built car is now on even terms
with the foreign machines.
MY original idea was to develop
the product Of the American manufac-
turcr and put us on Il level with the
foreign makers. Factories in France
lead the world in the manufacture of
automobiles, largely because of the
which their makers
gained through road races. Now the
American builder is beginning to show
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
VARSITY ROYS TAKING
BRACE. SAYS THE COACH

The University team, | think. will
show a great big brace at the Satur-
day game said Coach McBirnie Of
the locals last night. Il look for bet
ter team work. mor confidence,
quicker and snapper individual ball
playing. more head work and general
ship, ana in shOrt an entirely different
brand of football from thai handed
out to the Military men at Eel Paso.
However, the team under the circum-
stances might have put up a much
worse performance at the Pass city.
They had been practicing with signals
only five DAYS in preparation for that
game, lacked confidence. were slow
getting into the game. the ends were
slow and the team ragged. With three
more days practice and with n
hard game already played | believe
the University boys will wake up Sat-
urday and put enough ginger into the
proposition to retrieve the defeat of
last Tuesday. one good hard game
VIII do wonders for a team; they are
.practicing hard his week ana I am
confident that the teams will be much
more evenly matched than before. Eel
Paso had a fine team on the field
saturday. a good. heady, quick brain
ed quarter: they played together well
executed some forward passes
that were very neatly done"
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
j, n. N. ELEVEN IS
PREPARING FOR
HARD FIGHT
GRIDIRON BEING WORKED
INTO GOOD CONDITION
Arrangements Being Made to
Accommodate Large Crowd
of Spectators Contest viii
Be Best Game of Season,

The University of New Mexico foot
bah eleven. which went down to de-
feat before the FL Paso Military insti-
tutc at El Paso Tuesday, returned to
the city Yesterday morning. The boys
were not at all discouraged at the
ont come Of the game and have made
up their minds that it will be a van
pushed bunch Of cadets that will re-
turn to FL Paso next Sunday morning
after thoir appearance against the
Varsity hcre next Saturday.
The Traction park Eridiron, on
which Saturdays battle viii occur, is
being put in fine shape and it is
expected that a fast game will be
played. The gridiron is being thor
oughly drained and sodded and it will
indeed be a fast field before tomor-
row night. Ample arrangements are
being made for the accommodation of
Il large crowd of spectators. The side
lines Will be close to the race track
fence and the game can be Witnessed
to good advantage from The grand
stand.
Coach McBirnie had his men out
fer Il short time last night and made
IA plumber OF changes in the lineup.
Mr.. McBirnie had a splendid oppor-
tunitN to observe what the various
players could do in the El Paso game
the changes Yesterday were the
result Of his observations.
The squad will turn out for a stiff
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
FLOOD SUFFERERS
FEEL PANGS Of
STARVATION
People Driven From Homes by
DeIuge in Mexico Watch
Adobe Villages Melt Before
Raging Waters,
Il Morning Journal special Leased Wire

\ W HNARN ANhk tHA
MoNico CRY, oct. IA dispatch
from san juan Eautista says th'
Gudllvyia river Their, continues rie.
Ing and the condition of The poor ma
reached the starvation stage. owing o.
tAc impo-sihiiity OF scndingout pro-
visions. The total damage viii "N-
coed 81 1000. 600.
The towns of Tenosique. Jsumacin-
tt. Estuuilla. Zorro and Carmen are
all Hood" and the inhabitants have
abandoned their homes Crops are -
total loss Zoe this section The maNi-
mum height of tho water jon con-" and
Carmen was ~thirty-two inches while
in Pomcrania the water stood six and
nuc-halr feet in the main streets
Tre.~ and drirt wood iloated
through village. destroying adobe
houses ana forcing families into the
Vate-
Nam, houses have heen robbed
while tho occupants are away.
I'm sam Juan Hauti-ta The barrios Of
Conception and of Santa cruz are
completely inundated.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28

Peter Young fell and Clovercroft and
Picket both lost riders.
First race, 6 furlongs: L.othario
won; Compton, second; Acumen, third
Time, 1913 80.
Second race, / 1-16 miles: Aron-
dack won, Emperor William second,
st. Abe third. Time, 1;46 49,.
Third race. 6 furlongs: Top Notch
won. Jubilee Juggins second, Jubilee
third. Time 1:13 2-5.
Fourth race, steeplcchase. about 2ia
miles; Southwest won, Peter Young
second, Picket third. Time, 5:47.
Fifth race, ! lie miles: Dreamer
won, Gretna Green second, Stanley
Fay third. Time. 1916 Is.
Sixth race, 1 3-t6 miles: Orcagna
won, Nethermost second, Piacko third.
Time, 2:01 Is.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28

Annapolis Md, oct "a The CON
dition of Midshipman Earl y. Wilson
quarterback of the naval academy
A~@-
football team, who was injured Ia a
recent game with villa Nova. again
cision, reached by himself ana his as-
lDtr
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
BARN STORMlNG BALL
TEAM BACK FROM JAPAN

Victoria, b. G, oct. 27.-Tho Wis
consin university baseball team, six
teen strong, returned by the steamer
Tango Maru today after playing a
series of nine games in Japan.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
Rugby Football at BERKELEY.

berkeley, Cal, oct. 27.-The Uni
Norsity of California rugby team do
lrated the Vancouver fifteen today.
- to 3, in a far more exciting and
h"tlN contested game than the lop-
wed score would indicnto.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
Results at Iatonia.

Witt ~
Cincinnati. oct. EFT. NJ. Green
at Z to /, showed his class today BY
winning the handicap at L.atonia in q
driving finish from a good field
Track good, Results:
First race. 5 furlongs: Tortuous
won, Unecda second Emmy MAY third
Time, l:02 4-5.
second race, 6 ~furlongs: r. NJ
Green won, Al Muller second, Mad
ma third. Time, ia 2-5.
Third race. : %furlongs; Southern
Gold won, Radiation second. Caron-
dolet third. Time, 1;02 4-5.
Fourth race, 6 furlongs; Silver
stockings won, Bottles second, Koko-
mo third. Time, LIS 2-5.
Fifth race, 9 furlongs: youthful
won. Joe Moser second, BAN Rida
third. Time, 1;t5 l-5.
Sixth race, N mile and 20 Yards,
P~ocotaligo Won, The Shaughran see
ond. Light Blue third. Time l:46.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
PHILADELPHIA TEAM
DEFEATS ALL NATIONALS

Seattle, Wash. oct. 27.-The Phtla-
delphia Americans won from the All
Nationals today s to 3.
Score: r.. II. f..
Athletics . ...b 3
All-Nationals . ......3 . 8
Batteries: Plank and r homas:
Johnson and Myers.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
SENTENCED
TO PRISON FOR BlGAMY
With Wives In Four States Rev. Fred
cricis Ward iiciircs TO seclusion
of I~cnitcntiar,.

Walla Walla, Wn.. oct. 27.-Rev.
Frederick II Ward. pastor Of the Bap-
%ist church AT Freewater ore. todav
pleaded guilty OF bigamy and was sen
fenced 60 five years I'm the Washing
ton state p~enitentiary. Ward admit
ted having wives in North Carolina.
Tennessee and Kentucky. besides the
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
CLOUDY WEATHER AND
FAST TRACK AT PIMLICO

Baltimore. Oct. 27.-Thc fourth day
OF the Pimiico meeting had cloudy
weather, a fast rae and good at
tendance. The Elk Ridge stecple-
chase was won by Southwest. after
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
ARTES|A MAN FINED
FOR MISUSE Of
THE MAILS
Edward C. SIocum Pays 5000
for Privilege of Sending OBJ
scene Matter Through the
PoStoffiCe,
IHy Morning Iourna! special Leased wir,I

IBy Morning journal special Leased WireI
Roswell, n. M oct. 21.- Edward G..
Slocum, It prominent citizen Of Ar
tesla. y. NJ. pleaded guilty in the
United states district court here to-
day To the charge of sending obscene
matter through the Mails. He was
fined $3.50 ami costs.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28

won. christine second. Tubal third
Time. Lac -.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
Vernon ). san EranCiscn O.

san Francisco, Jet 27,-Vcrnon
shut out san Francisco today 8 to g.
score: K. II. Il.
Vernon 10 a
""h FRANCISCO .....,....... J l
batteries. Breckenridge and Brown;
Bodic and Carman.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1909-10-28
PACIFIC COAST LEAGUE
sacramento ?. Oakland
Los Angeles ,. Portland (.

Los Angeles, oct. 27.-Portland
scored once in the first inning today.
because of the wildness OF Thorsen.
The finals We're > to / in favor of Los
Nnpe1aS
Norwich bulletin., 1909-08-26
MORE SUITS BROUGHT
 FOR SUPERIOR COURT
Addie Burns Wants New Trial and Fred Kupky Sued for $7,ooo Dam- aqes-Auto Owner Sued.

On Wednesday Attorneys Shields & Shields filed with the clerk of the su- perior court a petition for a new trial for Addie Burns, who is now in state prison. In the petition it is set forth that the prosecutrice, May Burns, and no one else testified to having seen the man who committed the offense. It is claimed her story is untrue and fabricated. Mrs. Kate Burns, her mother, testified to May being away from home for some time.
 It is further claimed that Norwich juror in the case, during a recess had a talk with May Burns and her moth- CT, saying Little girl, I want to con- gratulate you upon your testimony. want to congratulate you upon your good appearance on the stand
 The claim is that the action of the juror was unjust and that the tria therefore was not a fair one for the defendant, and that the verdict and judgment are unjust. It is alleged thai nothing was known of this action by the juror until a week after the cast neded. Sarah Fahey of New Londor furnishes security to the amount o. $1O0 to prosecute This is the petition referred to some time ago before Addit Burns was taken to prison, but thu papers have just been made out. The New London Real Estate ant Improvement company sues Fred Kup ky of Taftville for $7,000. It is claim ed that he bid in the Buckingham prop erty. in Washington street, for $6,20O and then refused to take it. It is als' | claimed that he drew $5,000 out of tn bank directly after bidding the prop | erty in. His body was attached whel l it was found the money in the banl had been taken out, but he obtaine' security as previously told. These case are returned for the September term
 For the October term there is tn case of Frank Phillips of New Lon don, who sues c. B. Shultz of Nev York, summer resident for $1,00 | damages for injuries received las
 week, when the defendants auto ra
 into wagon which the plaintiff wa driving and threw him ffrom the seal the wagon going over his right leg an | hip