The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-06-23

should occupy on the .waist-lining, While it involves little more trouble, 1t is rather more accurate, particularly for the dressmaker without great se,e- perience. Even an experienced dress. maker will prefer to be extra cautious when she first attempts new style that has some novel points of construction
 It IS a simple matter to cut a girdie, using the provided pattern and odd scraps of canbric lining. Cut this care fully, mark the perforations, baste the seams and fit the girdle oyey the waist lining, with the waist-1ine perforations of the girdle.- directly at the natural waist-Ine of the figure.
 Transfer these perforations, and those
 for the high waist-line, to the fitted waist-lining by pinning through both Things at each set of perforations, then turning oyer the edge of the girdle and making continuous line of bastine- folded edge of the girdle as guide.
 The girdle has now served its purpose,
 and may be removed, but kept with the pattern for future use. A wc11- fitted girdle support may be put to sev eral practical uses.
 B Drapins the Skirt
 ? The skirt is now to be draped to the waist-lning, pinning its upper. edge to the line indicated for it on the lining The skirt may be fitted, at the normal waist-line, as, closely to the figure as desired, making of the completed gown princess orfDirectoire model, as eithe,
 one or the other may be more becorn ing. With waists of the bofero tybs the waist portion usually overlaps thS
 top of the skirt, even when the 1attei is finished with a girdle in either crslsE or plain strap form. When a waist in regulation waist length Is adopted with the skirt into a
 one-plece costume, 1t should be draped
 on the lining before the skirt, and. the
 excess material, below the traced high;
 mounted on its supporting girdle, may
 be worn sas separate skirt. over all
 most any regulation-length waist, but such an arrangement will result in sev- eral unnecessary layers of material about the waist. and Is hardly desirable for even a slender figure.
 The girdle5supported skirt is, how. ever, partieHlaTIy we'll adapted for wear
 with an u1difsed lingerie or silk waist. The necessity for an extra belt or gird1es is avoided, and there is no danger of the unsightly separation at the back be-
 tween skirt-belt and outside belt. The. lingerie waist, being thin, will not ap-
 preciably increase the size of the waist. Consider Your Figure It is by no means a ardrand-fast rule that the: patterns high waist-line. must be made the. same actual line at the top of every skirt. Oil may have some deviation of figure which, though slight, has neeessitated some alteration- fitting ir,ss atfae vertical lines. of waist and skirt, and 1t Is quite as important that the few horizontal lines shall be individually suitable. The same posi- ton of bands and foi1nces cannot be expected to be equally suitable for 3o-inch and 43-inch skirt length.
 Correspondingly, a shorter length from neck to waist-1ine may require that the high skirt-line be lowered a bit It is easily understandable thai stout figure may not gracefully wear very broad girdle. For best effects, the iatters breadth should diminish propor- tionately with the inches that are added to bust and waist measure. On general principles, one piece of advice to a stout woman Is to avoid horizontal lines.
 Breaking the waist-Line
 The skirts high waist-line may be broken to good effect by brete1le-like straps, that cross the shoulders and ex tend down on the skirt, well over the natural waist-line. They should be braided or. otherwise trimmed.