Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-08-03

cores of the skirt on the opposite OF
smaller side into the girdle. If doing
this makes the width of this side around
the hip from front to back too great,
take out the excess at the seam joining
the two side cores; do not, if it can
be avoided, disturb the seam where the
front panel joins the first side gore.
After fitting, remove the skirt and
lining, haste any necessary alterations,
then stitch and press the seams. Stitch
the girdle at both upper and lower edges
and along. the sides of the front panel
The stitching should be about one-eighth
of an inch back from the fold-edge
to make the overlapping edges we'll
defined. Fit the lining into the girdle,
trying both on again and pinning them
together if that seems advisable
| Turn under a seam at both upper and
lower edges of the lining. Catch-stitcl
or hem the lower edge, leaving it free
from the cloth; hem the upper edge
| by hand to the turned-over edge of the
cloth girdle. The boning is placed
toward the inside of the lining in order
that its impression may not show
through the girdle, no matter how light.
weight the goods of the skirt may be
a Buttoned Skirt
Another model is shown with sinu.
lated button-a nd-buttonhole closing al
the center front, the tapping edge of the
closing being cut into what may be
called squared scallops. Not everyone
1 will want to undertake this work
though it undoubtedly adds to the good
effect of garments. After the correc,
front length of the skirt is determined
a line of tracing threads represents
the center-front of the skirt; the over.
tapping edge iii any case must be faced
back seam past this center-front line
Basic this facing to the outside Of
the right-hand portion of the front gore
Lay the scallop pattern on the gore
even with the front edge, the side Of
the scallop-piecc three-eighths of an inch
below the waist edge at the center-front
Mark with chalk, then haste and after.
ward stitch seam three-eighths Of ar
inch inside the edge and the diagonal
clalked line, carrying it to meet the
straight chalk line that divides the
blocks or scallops
Notch down to the sewing-line in
| each of the V shapes, turn the facing.
piece over, being careful to make good
corner turns, basic around the fold-edge
and stitch. Several rows of stitching
may be made or one or more rows Of
soutache may be sewed space from
the edge, carrying the braid to the cen
ter-line.
A Simpler Method
A much simpler method, by which
practically the same result may be
reached, is to face the overlapping piece,
leaving the edge straight. Mark ON
the right side with chalk, as described,
and use this chalk line as guide for
braiding. Several rows of soutache with
spaces between. the width of the braid,
will have good trimming effect. The
simulated buttonhole in each scallop is
also made Of the braid, or if stitching
and not braid is used, make this of
narrow fold of the cloth.
| Face the left-hand front portion with
a piece of lining material and join tito
the right-hand portion by laying its
edge even with the center-front trac-
ing on that portion A button sewed
at the center of each scalop through
both skirt portions secures them togetf-
er. Buttons for this purpose should
be the same color as the skirt material
or of its predominating color if mixed
or checked goods is used.
Buttons
In fact, many of the high-c1ass tailors
have the buttons made in their work
rooms, covering wooden button molds
| Chat may be bought for few cents
per dozen) with scraps of the material
/ which have been embroidered