New-York tribune., 1909-05-16
Women of All Ages

SEnlDltlOnS, Paris Is al us SaNeSl ldS4-olidOO
gathering places arc thronged with well gowned
women. n spite Of the war vaged against the
tailored costume by the couturieres' It continues
TRANQUILITY its victorious way showing that
woman. even the idle woman of fashion, Is not
50 easily swayed 10y the mandates Of the gown
builders as those who love 10 decTy the sex would
have US believe. The tailored costume she likes.
The tailored costume she viii have. Hence 1t Is
seen everywhere in every Imaginable material, cut
IN the beautiful long loose lines that, While hlong
defects conceal beauty of figure.
At the Ter1.issage of the Gent Portraits
smartest public event Of tie season-there appeared
IN attractive contrast 20 the long coats several
sbcrt ones Reaching well below the hips, they
were perhaps short only by comparison, ana built
or the same general lines
Particularly worthy Of note were those Of black
silk or satin. with skirt OF the same on
with one Of black voe, or crepe de chine IN one
case the long close sleeve. cut OF half way o7tWeen
elbow and wrist. finished with an undersleeFe
Of the same form made of lingerie tucks and lace
entre-deux- this reached barely to the wrist AS
with all the latest. coats. whether short OF long
the fastening was below the waist line
OF 2 wholly different form was a coat Of black
fs7le silk with large Directoire revers- From the
edge Of them it sloped sharply away to hshtah
point in the back, that reached half way down the
skirt The sleeves were close and long, with up
turning cuffs open at the back and narlng VIDE
They we're held by two large buttons
BLACK MORE is seen as often as black satin, used
s facngs TO coats of colored tussore, silk or linen
The rnoire seems better adapted TO the rough tus-
scrs and coarse tvled serges that are the 1aNoFleS
among zooIlen materials Soft and cllnglng' these
e-ges are wonder fully chic when made into short
szirted costume with the long. close nttlng coat
a costume OF this genre showed It's sklrt pleateo
IN loose box pIeats 10 shallow yoke that oesoelu-
Sd INTO 2 narrow front breadth. The buttons OF
almond green serge set either side OF the pam
brsadth were extremely decOratiFe- The coat hao
shawl shaped revers turning several lnehes OeioM
-he waist line fasten with buttons anu coiu
looms The black moire, that faced the reNers' vas
matched in wrist bag mounted IN golu- iH7
-, 4rrn- Of the coat was fitted with 1n immense
4sbo+ of plain white mull-the sheerest posslnle-
Where II Joined the soft pleated stock vas Po9eu
stiff little bow Of black satin. V1 sol 10, 80,
black straw faced with white straw ana '-II4lil
-, 5-,,-e,se white wings the hat that topIeo
..+-,r,e \ wide band Of dark green six
,s,aA5 the parasol that matched the Color o. 'A7
costume
Next 10 the chic. practical and oornfortaols lli.
- Coe+7,r0e. the baby frook is taking by oe-
+e-nniued assault the whole feminine "0rlo ,--
- an ages whose figure will permit, are e-i--.s
IN these gowns Of childlike form. IN pou-o9 1
st,f-red pleated OF tucked 10 a YOKE "hicl : - -
square or round 10 frame tiny lucAsl I-.---I -
5-n = fat collar or 2 choker. according 10 tas'
-, .7ae,zs var in form They may o. gall7'e ~
,n,o The srrnhole and again below l-e 80" -.
q, elbow puff Of the material OF 1lle tuIA -
-r,,A baby fashion-or mace II pa -. -
60, +o The wrist. But Whatever oe
-, ,,oz;ce and sleeve there is always sash so-l,S
4o1dza about the waist TO tie IN q 20" a. li,T 80
smart example Of such gown = q s -,
mere in pretty shade OF na1tlel oiUe'
-. etana5 with fat yoke that desoends INTO
- -, the middle of the back and 'front.'
- +s,s MINER part of The sleeve, giving d4I
.,,+rarreIy long shouldered erect belo~ -
rro1,1de- the sleeves are long and pucAe-eu -
- a-,e of the under parts On the sldes lle
so5ioe is plated. tapping over on 10 the pan -
-, -. and ornaruented with braid and buttons
7~sa- s,,-7e Of these the closing Is cohcealeo- A
.,,o-+ skirt fastens in front under me OF s~'
b,,t+ons set in scalloped edges ms aIsO Ho9
lain middle breadth but from hlp 10 MP Iu1ie9 80
= at+scbed 10 a deep plain yoke that rises niue
+o7-s-s -re hack The soft short sash is Of natch-
ing siIk-the grinpe Of dotted white null
f|,,.-,7ine for foulard IS a skirt set IN close me
.,,r,-s 10 round waist line. Across the 'front.' Ihe
+,cl,s descend nearly to the height OF the Knees
rT. an The sides they reach only foot below
the hand sloping q little shorter toward the oacA-
This skirt would be attractive carried Out III any
soft material
Sol-ad pe, r1ousseline de sole is the material OF
an evening gown made with long skltt SIMPLY -I
sbirred TO high waisthand that Is visible only
3r front The low corsage and half long over
skirt that slopes away from the front, are OF
s,, ynousseiine de sole. printed with gay coloreo
flowers in large set punches The decollete Is m
ssbed with large jet beads. Jet plaques holo into
sof+ folds the fulness that answers for sleeves.
A long skirted gown of pale green charIIieuse
eepe has its plain skirt gathered fun to culrasse
rodv of green filet net edged with a balo OF en-
,-,,,i5ery and covered with embroidered motis al
q, z.r-e-+ tones of the same color The cuirasse,
.7n,sbe7 in novel fashion, rises in front nearly 10
the neck sloping Immediately low under the arms
- the height of a deep girdle in the middle OF the
hack big ribbon bow finishes II there ABOVE
the edge Of the cuirassa the high neck ana long,
.,,- sleeves Of the corsage Of the charIneuse'
rerfectlv plain save Cor little embroidery at the
ION NJ the stock and al the extreme edge Of the
sleeves that point over the fingers
A costume seen the other day at the LonGchamps
-zces had an immense amount Of dash. Its long
.oa- hung over short plated skirt Of soft white
serge was lined with black satin The straight
sleeves set smoothly into the arInhOles, turned up
above the elbows showing the lining. In the same
manner the fronts turned back fastening with one
large HACK satin covered button several inches be
low the waist line. The chemisette Of fine sheer
white handkerchief linen plainly laid in quar-
ter inch tucBs. Conspicuous. laid straight across
she chest under 81 was six inch wide band OF
black satin ribbon. Thus far one might assume
+bis 10 be z half mourning toilette. Far from It.
The parasoi carried with it a bright flame
coior In the handle Of the white polished wooden
stick was set great flashing opal cravat that
tied the high embroidered collar matched the
parasOl-
worn over gowns Of white foulard silk. with
and practical OF. unlined tazfetas they trail as
lorz As the skirt in the back and finished with
silk ruching. pinked or ravelled.
A white foulard, printed with large dots Of old |
blI,e had real air OF the eighteenth century in |
its short skirt trimmed the foot with deep
purts separated with large silk covered cords. Just
below the hips one single puff was arranged in the
same manner The surplice corsage finished |
by e long wide sash that twined the waist twice,
returning 70 the front 10 hang side, long
fringed end drawn through the belt TO form fat