Arizona republican., 1909-04-17
Latest New York Models Quite
 Tailor Made in Outline: ' Heavy Embroidery Coming Into Vogue

NOW that the eye has become accus-
 toned to the slender outlines of skirts and sleeves. we can smile at the exaggeration of description with winch these style-charges were heralded. and the caTicature drawings supposed to rep resent some of the advance models. It was with the same ridicule. and it seems with more reason, that the seven-yard- around skirts and balloon sleeves of. per haps fifteen years ago were introduced, and ii we compare the fashion plates of ihe two periods we must admit that 1909 shows a decided advance in the way of beauty and good taste.
 A fitted sleeve IS not necessarily tight sleeve; 1t may follow the contour of the arm without sacrificing either comfort or appearance. Not 90 much the sleeve as the waist-line has been the troublouS question of the Empire models. Every description accents the so-called hip less" figure, and when your mirror shows the possession of very evident hips, you feel these gowns are not for you.
 There may be a protest at the sug gestion for increasing the size of the waist. but that is a part of the plan which, II carried out, will prove its own = creased waist measure were used when the straight-front line was introduced into the corset, but the result was such general figure improvement that that feature was forgotten.
 Remember that the waiSt-line is not the entire figure, and that a generally symmetrical effect IS to be preferred to fixed waist-measure. This much of good work in the cause of good looks has the Empire vogue done. though 1t re- quired demonstration to prove 1t. h. stead of q stout woman getting herself into costume or coat that curves i'll at the back and sides to the smallest pos siblc waist, then out again to full round hips, let out the corset until the line Is a gradual. not a sharp curve, and have the garment fit easily. Ii you will look at figure in what IS known as a semi fitted coat, where the waist-line is only suggested, not defined. you will recognize a nearer approach to slenderness than had seemed possible.
 The High waist-Line
 Skirts cut with the high waist-line are becoming more popular every day. They must be mounted on a girdle foundation that fits closely. but the skirt portion Is not darted in to a snug fit; it hangs eas- fly from the top of the girdle support When an outside girdle oi ribbon or silk is used. 1t Is drawn snugly at the upper edge. but left moderately loose at the lower, which is really the regulation waist-line Though the Empire gown proper IS long enough 10 lie on the ground all around, this length is imprac- ticable for any but gowns for indoor wear. The shorter lengths are not awk- ward, though the average walking length this season Is somewhat longer than last year. the skirt just escaping the ground evenly all around.
 Nor is the width SO great. and gored skirts are more often seen than plaited models Where a suit formerly meant two pieces-a skirt and coat-the popu- lar form now IS called ''three-piece cos | tume,' with waist, skirt and coat match ing. The waist IS not necessarily of the same material as the skirt, nor need 1t be actually attached to 1t.
 Net dyed in all the staple colors is perhaps first favorite for waists It har- for this purpose, with prac- tically any other material, and can be !