East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1909-01-09
FASHION LETTER BY
CATHERINE PAYZANT.

New York, January 8.-Certainly
the times have changed since the days
when one frock would serve every
purpose. The business woman, even
few years ago, could put her tall
ored suit to all sorts of uses. Today
distinct line of difference is made
between the street and the house
gown. the morning and a fternoon
street costume and the afternoon and
morning house gown, to which must
be added the evening dress.
The morning street suit we must
have and for this there are certain
characteristics that are the vogue of
the day. Sleeves must be close and
plain, skirts should be narrow, long
and sheath fitting. (This word sheath
has difference of meaning for street
and evening gowns The fact is, all
garments must have the effect of
length and slimness. The new cor
sets, as they are now made to add to
the waise and take away from the
hips. Skirts fall from the high waist
line and the coat from the shoulders
with no inward curve. Width of
shoulder is also avoided.
A suit for morning wear could be |
of smoke grey diagonal clath, con-
sisting of a nine-gored skirt and a |
forty-three inch coat cut with pointed |
back and front. The nine gored skirt
gives a decidedly narrow effect at the
top and is perfectly plain from top to
bottom. Clearing or shorter length
may be used. but if not to be used for
business purposes, the first length
seems more satisfactory. The coat
is as plain as the skirt except for
whatever decoration may be added
through the agency of the collar.
which may be notched or shawl pat
tern and may be braided or brocade
Or velvet or of the material decorated
with machine stitching, the last being
The best known ornamentation for
business suit yet effected. Large hip
pockets should agree with the collar
md cuffs. Covered buttons are used
Tor the single breasted fastening.
sven more effective and suitable for
)ther purposes by making it with a
Jumper of the same material if 1t be
lot too heavy material. To the grey
suit there might be added an extra
waist of grey chiffon of the exact
shade as the suit or lace one dyed
o match, an idea that is very fash
enable just now. The extra waist
nay be of another material, but to be
Up to date should exactly match the
,olor, The idea is to avoid the dis
nct line at the junction made where
wo colors come together.
Another dress that will serve many
ises is made from cashmere, which
With an inexpensive evening gown
will put one well through the winter.
The body of the frock is mounted on
French lining, which may be used
IS a gimpe and have yoke effect of
ucked net, chiffon or lace faced to it
tut cut away beneath. The lower
,arts of the lining sleeves are usually
If the thin material and come down
,ver the hands. The skirt is of the
line-gored variety with a habit back.
or the opening is made on the left
ide of the front as is the waist. The
waist portions of the waist as far as
possible are apparently combinations
VI the cores of the skirt.
The low V-outline is outlined with
/ band Of silk which is carried down
he left side opening and the bottoms
,f the sleeves are. also banded with 1t.
A pretty gown for evening wear
'ould be constructed from one of the
lew shades of blue voiles and satin.
\ draped princess style was used as a
pattern and velvet leaves and flowers
" dainty dimensions were outlined
With silver braid and appiqued to the
material used for the front panel parts
II the sleeves and the high girdle. The
,oke or guimpe is of delicate net laid
over embroidered chiffon. but this
,oke can be taken out and one more
shallow applied where lower neck
$ wished The same treatment is
given the sleeves. While not ex-
remely ceremonious in its style, for
most occasions 1t will be found
most servlceable gown and one that
will perhaps do for long time. v.