davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1909-09-12
The Home Hatmaker

WE SHALL no doubt hear OF the
" toque and the turban from the
present moment up to the hrst
blast OF winter. and those Of US who
make our own headgear will keep on
wondering just what is meant. firstly.
by such a vague term as .toque." and
Just wherein lies the difference between
II and the turban.
Toque has meant to us for long years
small crush hat made Of some soft
material mounted on wire frame and
ntted closely to the head-a very small
Our weli-known turban had an up
turned brim several inches high, and
was made OF stiff straw or felt-trying
TO a certain face with curling locks
Now. the terms toque and turban are
used this year interchangeably and cover
the anss arDan hats rher shses
ID legion. and 1t would be out of the
question to so describe each separate
hat as to place 1t in the list Of toQues
This new headgear will undoubtedly
be favorite with the veiled lady and
the autumn shopper. because IT Is COM
The Hindu turban is swathed hat.
made on frame covered with such soft
materials as velvet, piece beaver. the
rSnsst .nS silk and other soft
hold the crown drapery in place Is u.s.
ually Of something heavier: for in
stance. the chiffon draperies may be
bound in by velvet bands, but the velvet
or beaver top will be held In by a
border Of fur.
The crown is not always a twisted
drapery, but sometimes Is more of a
crust OF silk resembling the old-time
toque. The finish OF the two hats near
the head is Identical.
Their size removes them afar from
the hats we have known by similar
names; they do not perch upon the
hair, but are pulled so far down over
the head as to seem almost q cap In
appearance.
Evening star., 1909-09-12

seamy side turned against the wrong
side of the bag. These two are then
sewn together at their very edge SO
that the jeweler will have no difficulty
during the mounting process, and to
make the bag doubly secure.
"A plain suede leather bag is probably
Inc easiest to make. The best way to
obtain a soft but strong piece of leath-
er without weak spots therein. is to
carry your manila paper pattern lex
act!y fitted to a wholesale leather house
and, explaining its use, ask the leather
cutter to supply and cut for you with
his sharp knife the perfect pieces Of
leather you require. All-over EN-.
broidered satin, silk. cloth and linen
are excellent when bought by the yard
in suitable lengths for bags. These same
plain fabrics may be the background
for handwork in embroidery or braid
put on in some rambling pattern or a
design of single motif. Gorgeous east
ern embroideries in silk upon linen
monte cloth are good. when lined with
China silk repeating one OF the brilliant
colorS- The beaded reticule bag is fire.
quently mounted on these metal clasps,
and the plain square velvet bag is sue
cess in brown with a dull gold mount
or in green with silver to harmonic
with green costume and Its silver
buttons
One of the objects Of this home manu-
facture of the shopping bag IS the get
ting of a commodious size, and another
is the securing of something individual
or to match a costume.
Evening star., 1909-09-12
The Price of
Carriers
* AFTER extravaganza has reached
an outside limit since the advent

an outside limit since the advent
Of the actually long corset
The extreme length of soft coutil on
the sides. placed there to relieve the
hip. the extra goods at the back with
the comparative length of the front, all
call for an unforeseen strapping down.
II corsets could be boned all the way
to the lower edge, there would not be
this loose material to consider; but they
can't. Bones necessarily stop short
somewhere below the hip lines and this
leaves long, loose flaps of material to
be held in place if smoothness of sur
face is to be the result. Many pairs
OF exceIlently made upright garters are
necessary to hold down the present
corset. and part of this expense goes
into the stockings, whose tops are torn.
Ihe remedy for this is hard to find.
but first solution lies in the facing
of every new stocking top with a piece
Of black satin ribbon. Some silk stock
lngs are now made with a cotton stock
inette top, because silk hose are more
readily torn by the garter than other
qualities.
A thoughtful way around the stock
ing tearing difficulty lies in cautious
fastening os all garters less tightly
tnan may seem necessary. The great
number of garters makes extreme tight
ness at any given point comparatively
useless. And not alone the expense
OF this pulling down process should be
considered. but its bad effect upon the
health.
Evening star., 1909-09-12

She has done 1t Cor let US imagine she
has) in this table center in mushroom
design. She has used 1t four times,
before 1t was full grown. to fit into the
corners Of this square. the size Of
which was determined by the width Of
the crash.
On this gray-brown material the work
was done In cold blue linen floss OF
rather deep tone. The half-opened
mushrooms and all Of the lines sur
rounding them and contributing to the
design were worked in stem or outline
stitch. The center circle was a double
line and the edge a straight line Of
buttonholing one-third of an inch deep.
The conventional lotus on a table
hanger was no less dashy and appro-
pirate. The flower was worked over
and over. the leaf was nearly all traced
in stem stitch. while two rows of the
same stitch along the edge just above
the hem took the place OF open hem
stitching.
The hanger was just q width Of crash.
and. although narrow. it was not neces-
sarily intended to cover a whole table.
Indeed. a very nice effect Is often given
by the use OF the long. narrow hanger
Evening star., 1909-09-12
How to Apply the Design

HERE are two ways to apply
: this design to the material
upon which you wish to work it.
II your material is sheer-such
as handkerchief linen, lawn, batiste
and the like-the simplest method
is to lay the material over the de-
sign and, with a well-pointed pencil,
draw over each line.
Ii YOUR material is heavy, secure
a piece of transfer or impression
paper. Lay it, face down, upon this !;
then draw over each line of the
paper design with hard pencil or
the point of a steel knitting needle.
Upon lifting the pattern and trans
fer paper you will find a neat and
accurate impression of the design
upon your material.
There are two points to observe
in this simple process, if you would
Evening star., 1909-09-12

execute it satisfactorily. One is,
see that your material is level-cut
and folded by thread and that
your design is placed upon it evenly
at every point.
The second is, when placed accu-
rately, secure the design to the ma
terial with thumbtacks or pins so
that they cannot slip during the
operation.
Transfer paper comes in white,
black, blue, red and yellow. / ad-
wise the use of the lighter colors
when possible, as the black and blue
are SO liable to crock.
Do not rest your hand or fingers
upon any part of the design you are
transferring, else the imprint of
hand or fingers will be as distinct
upon the material as the drawn
lines Of the design.
Evening star., 1909-09-12

washable among embroidery threads
but the design may be carried out In
colors as well. If the petals are kept
white. the centers yellow and the leaves
and stems delicate green. the scallops
with which you will edge the scarf may
be buttonholed with either white or
green.
The design should be placed about four
inches from each end Of the scarf and
the same distance from it's edges. It
will fit particularly well on a chiffonier
cover eighteen inches wide when fin
ished and thirty-six inches long, or a
bureau cover the same width and fifty
four inches long.
This design Is suitable as a repeat
Evening star., 1909-09-12
A Tip on ailorine

N EANY persons ordering an autumn
N suit and intending it to do duty
= throughout winter prefer
medium weight material. sufficiently in
terlined. to that heavier quality which
looks too rough-and-ready for the early
fall days.
Women will endure the excess OF
warmth long before winter makes 1t
necessary, but they will not put up
with coat too wintry in appearances.
Just by way of suggestion, 1t ought
woolly felt, whicii is SO generally used
for interlining, has. in it's loosely
woven fabric, great numbers of long
white hairs that gradually work their
The constant picking out of these hairs
can be obviated by the use Of dark felt
interlinings. and. although all tailors OBJ
ject most seriously to unprofessional in
reference. 1t is well to know an occae
sional thing and to insist.
Evening star., 1909-09-12

across the top or bottom OF q dainty
bedroom hanging. 1t might be used to
good effect on inner sill curtains Of
white linen to match the bureau scarf.
II the idea appeals to you. the whole
Of the pattern here shown should be re-
peated twice or three times across the
lower edge (or the upper. II preferred)
one inch from the hemstitching.
A slip cover for the back Of rock
ing chair is not to be scorned In the
same dainty room. particularly II the
chair be heavily upholstered. Here
again will our design be found avail
able, and. moreover. just the size. l
may safely say 1t has endless possibili-
ties.
Evening star., 1909-09-12
IXz1< 1Sz%z zz<shS27v
a<.0gzz 6lkNzzzz

Russian fabric, is crude and rough In
texture and is homely (meaning domes-
tic) In tone: it has no convenuolai
smoothness Of fabric. nor Is it OF iasn.
ionable color. 1t seems to have JUS.
got So" and therein lies its cnieI
charm
Now, the successful designer OF a mo-
tif for this material could not find 1t IN
her soul to torture into shape some
delicate tendril OF hothouse growth. She
would preferably go out into the fields
some early morning and bring In a
mushroom to dash on before It Wits.
Evening star., 1909-09-12

zach different material offers 10
the true designer an opportunity
- to create. and there is something
Particularly exclusive about the design
70 De used upon crash. 1t has not the
same character as the lingerie design.
Inc two are as different as are the sun
hover and the snowdrop. 1t is barely
possible that design might happen to
suit either one. but it usually will be
found that the expert or artist-de esigner
viii work in her lines according to her
cloth.
Crash. and particularly the imported
Evening star., 1909-09-12

"HERE are many, know. among
oLs industrious needlewomen
III who will see in the chubby lit
tie flower which Is part of to-
days design a strong resemblance to
the daisy. That ever-popular blossom
is one of the most readily worked that
we know of. Its over-and-over petals.
its knotted center. its long-and-short-
stitch leaves and its regulation stems
are the sort that the lounger on the
veranda, or even the reclining one In
her hammock. may do without
thought, and do well at that.
White mercerized cotton. that unfail-
Ing standby. Is obviously the most
Evening star., 1909-09-12
LazezzInMZ IzIMy Az1 AAE
Mzy7z~ zlZIzzmzz

strung from side to side Of q good-sizeA
mahogany table.
In selecting designs to be put on these
dura BILE and heavy pieces the decorative.
the simple and the suitable should bs
taken into consideration
Evening star., 1909-09-12

- EFT out OF the habit OF casting a
= single eye on some unimportant
- detail Of the styles. and look out
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1909-07-20

MORE PEOPLE RAD THE TIaiI:s
EVERY NIGHT THAN READ ALI. THE
OTHER DAVLIES PRINTED IN LAKE.
COUNTY FIVE TIslHs OVER IN
THEN SOME
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1909-07-20
ACTRESS JUMPS OVER
FOOILIGHTS; INJURED
Miss Patsy Foster in Prin-
cess Theater Pays for
Prank.
IN HURRY TO GET HOME
Accident in Gary Playhouse Was
Witnessed BY Few-Injury Not
Serious But Painful.

After charming a large audience at
the Princess theater in Gary last night
with her delightful song and dance act.
Miss Patsy Foster, leading lady at the
musical comedy show, tried to prance
over the footlights to leave for her ho-
tel when she slipped and fell to the floor
below, sustaining severe injuries.
About thirty still remained in the
theater when the accident occurred, the
show having closed for the evening and
all but these having made their exit.
No one saw Miss Foster attempt to
spring over the footlights and make a
hasty departure down the aisle but one
Of the last men out heard a groan near
the front row Of seats and investiga-
ton showed that the actress had been
severely hurt.
A hurried effort was made to seek a
physician for the young lady while she
was removed to the dressing room Of
the theater. Later. after she had been
given medical attention, she was re-
moved to her room a the Broadway ho-
tel. It is believed that she was in
jured internally, but that it will not
prove serious. Miss oFster will not be
able to appear at the theater for some
time as result OF the accident.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1909-07-20

LINE HAULS
BIG CROWD
Breaks It's Own Record for
Sunday Passenger Traffic;
Every Car Available Is
Pressed Into Service for
Excursionists.

Yesterday the Chicago, Lake Shore
and South Bend line reported that they
had carried the largest number Of pas
sengers in its history on Sunday. Every
car in operating order was pressed into
service, baking up four, five and six
car trains, in which most of the stand
ing room and all of the seats were used
One Of the employees of the road stated
yesterday that after o'clock Sunday
afternoon until o'clock the Michigan
City agent had sold over nine hundred
tickets to Pullman.
Between Gary, East Chicago. Ham
mond and Pullman the business done
was enormous. There were two things
which contributed largely to the record
breaking day Sunday, and that was the
excursion and the cheap rates run to
Michigan City and South Bend, and also
to Hudson lake. Another was the fact
that Lake Michigan was so rough that
hundreds of the passengers on the
steamer Theodore Roosevelt were afraid
or disliked to return by water and re-
turned to Chicago via the interurban
line. In Gary all the reserve cars were
in use throughout the day. Next Sun
day the Cook County Press club will be
taken on this line to Hudson lake for
their annual outing.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1909-07-20
ROOFERS To
BEGIN WORK
On STATION
Lundt of Hammond
Has Contract for Covering
Indiana Harbor Sewer
Pumping Station = New
Park Is Discernible.
Especial to THE T1MEs,)

Indiana Harbor, Ind. July 20.-Henry
Lundt of the Lundt Roofing company
of Hammond was in town yesterday
making arrangements for beginning
work on the roof of the new sewer
pumping station.
The building is now ready for this
feature of its construction and it is
expected that work will be begun at
once.
The sewer has progressed to a point
past the Terminal railroad A little diff
hculty was experienced near this point
which for a time looked serious. One
of the pumps which has been engaged
in Kidding the ditch of wafer, gave out
and the water began to gain Roadway.
threatening a cavern of the banks. Aft
er a stiq fight by engineers and work
men the pump was put into commission
again and the floor was conquered, thus
saving hundreds and perhaps thousands
of dollars damages.
Makes Daily Inspection.
Vice President c. A. Westberg of the
East Chicago company makes an al
most daily trip over the line of the
work. as we'll as going on a daily in
spection of other improvements of
which his company is the author.
Among the latter is the clearing of the
brush away from the new park in Park
addition. The boundaries of this tract
have heretofore been unknown to the
majority of Indiana Harborites, and the
clearance, as well as defining the park
bounds, improves the general appear
ance of the vicinity. The new park
borders on the following streets: Par
ish. Grapevine. 142nd and Hath. 1t en-
braces twenty acres.
The water from the new park and its
surroundings is rapidly disappearing
The Cline avenue ditch is responsible
for this. the channel of the latter being
filled. The ditch has a swift current
and resembles a river in appearance.
1t is now possible to drive all around
the park. where few months ago this
would have been unthought OF. With
the completion of the big sewer it is
expected that every foot Of ground tri-
butary TO it will be high and dry to all
intents and purposes.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1909-07-20
MOTORCYCLE
RUNS OVER
PEDESTRIAN
Harry LaBelle, Sign Painter
Employed in Gary, Hit by
Machine Which Was
Driven by w. j. Smith of
Steel Town.

w. j. Smith son Of I. Caldwell Smith,
the cc-+rector. while speeding down
Broadway yesterday afternoon on his
motorcycle struck and severely injured
Harry LaBelle, a sign painter. employed
by the Tom Miller system. The acct
dent occurred about o'clock yester-
day afternoon in front of the Reynolds
building. near Fifth avenue
LaBelle was crossing the street, and
in a confusion OF carriages and 9th
er vehicles. failed to notice the motor
cycle, which was said TO be approach
ing at moderate rate. The machine
struck him hard blow. knocked him
to the pavement, but did not throw
the rider of the machine. who stopped
at once and picked up the victim.
The painter was found to have had
several bad bruises, but much TO the
surprise Of a large number of specta-
tors it was found that there were 10
bones broken. While LaBene will be
incapacitated for work for several
days. the injuries which he sustained
in the accident will not prove serious.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1909-07-20
PUBLIC DOES NOT
SHOW DISCRIMINATION
Acts of Few Places All in Bad
Light-Resolution Is Passed Peti-
tioning City Officials to Drive Out
Criminal Element-Dave John
sons Place Raided Only Once.

Even the Gary negroes themselves
are rising up in their righteous indlg
nation against the lax city admins
tration in Gary, which has permitted
the town to remain so wide open that
1t has invited the very worst element
in the Chicago negro population to
Gary and has created intolerable con-
ditions.
Last evening there was meeting in
the colored peoples Baptist church. in
which the fact that there are so many
vicious negroes in Gary is deplored
A resolution was passed favoring the
circulation, among the colored folk of
Gary, of a petition to the city officials
asking that the criminal element amoN' g
the negroes, who are well known to
the police, be drive nout of the city
1t is not expected that the Gary city
administration. headed by Thomas
Knots, the president of the town board,
will ltake steps to ameliorate conditions
for the reason that he, and the police
officers, who are under his direction,
have been winking at this condition
for SO long that their position in the
matter is very plain.
Several Speeches Made.
Among those who spoke on the sub
ject were A. A Rodman, Charles Greg
ory, S. Clay the Rev. Coaster OF the
Baptist church. It Is understood that
there will be another meeting in the
near future at which the matter of
signing the petition Will be taken up
The consensus OF opinion was that it
is to the interest of colored people of
Gary that the vicious. lazy negro OF the
city should be eliminated at once.
One man voiced the opinion that the
whole race In Gary was being judged
by the actions Of the few. That when
negro was mixed up in cutting
scrape or robbery the whole race. no
matter how unjust 1t may be, is looked
upon as race of cut-throats and rob
bers This is why the respectable ele-
ment in Gary's negro population wants
to see more police activity when colored
men are implicated in affairs of a
criminal nature.
They point to the immunity that
Dave Johnson, the notorious divekeeper.
has had in Gary ever since Tom Knots
has been in power, excepting when. on
the complaint of Gary negro the
place was raided by SherH Grant and
a crowd of his deputies. a wagon load
Of gambling apparatus was taken out.
while the negro wenches in the place
went scampering TO safety.
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1909-07-20

turn with the exception of the above
mentioned:
Three Special Teachers.
G. E. Wulfng. NJ. E. Snyder, Ida A
LuH.
High school eachers-Edward Sar-
gent principal; S. G. Engle, sciences;
Gertrude Ogg. science and mathematics
Della Wintrode, Latin; Bess M Vroo-
man. history.
Grade teachers-Cora NJ. Harmed, Lu-
Gle Huston. Ina z. Martin Florence
Burns. Kate Hale, Catherine Thomas
Anna Koppel. Madge Stewart Alice
Newlin. S. J. Brickley, Keziah Stright
Ora Faxon. Grace Brooks. Alice NJ
Anchors, Winifred Deathe. Leah Graves
Viola l. Strain, Albert Watts, Everett
D. Simpson.
The fall school term will commence
this year on Sept. 10. Last year school
began on the Tuesday following Labor
day. but the local school board has de-
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1909-07-20

the coroner will deliver a verdict to
that effect. He will deliver his verdict
in a few days. The fact that the stream
ing headlight could be seen for two
or three miles down the track and that
the engineer constantly blew his whist
lie. induced many to belize that he de-
liberately committed suicide.
The facts of the case, however. sub
Stimulated the theory that 1t was plain
accident and that the man was not in
a condition to take care of himself at
the time. His relative have not yet
responded to take care of the body, and
If he is still a unon man of good
standing he may be buried by that or
ganization or by the county
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1909-07-20
EMMERSON BUILDING
STANDS UNSURPASSED
All the Teachers of Last Year With
the Exception of Four, Will Re-
turn-New Ones Will Be Added
City Makes Exceptional Showing
For Four Year Old.

At the beginning of the next school
year, which will take place on Sept 10,
Gary will have system of schools that
cannot be equaled anywhere in the
state. The plans of Superintendent w
A. Writ and the members of the local
school board are being carried out to
the letter. and upon the completion Of
the new Emerson school Gary will be
without a rival in the way OF modern
school facilities and corps of efficient
teachers and instructors
Superintendent Writ has already
made his selections Of the instructors
who are TO preside over the various de-
partments of the new Emerson and
Jefferson schools. All the vacancies
have been filed with the exception of
the following instructors:
Woman supervisor of physical Gull
ture
Domestic science.
Three intermediate grade teachers.
The following selections have been
made by superintendent Writ:
Miss Rubetta Biggs of FindIay. Ohio
and Miss Lauro Bradley of Fit. Wayne
Ind. instructors in English: Miss Anna
Klingensmth of ST Paul MINI. grade
supervisor; Miss Bertha Child Of Afichi-
gan city, instructor in German, @. s.
Herrick. Marion, Ind, supervisor of
penmanship; Ross D. Metherton. Wilma
mac, Ind, mathematics and athletic in
structor.
Grade Teachers Selected.
The following grade teachers have
been selected:
Miss Orthena Meyer Bloomington,
Ind; Miss Henrietta Gibson, Tolleston,
Ind; Miss Maud Owen. Worthington.
Ind; Miss Lulu NJ Newlin. Ypsilanti
Mich: Miss Kittie Huff. Bay City Mich.
Miss Blanche Liggett. Fort Wayne, Ind ;
Miss Daisy Alkire. st. Louis, No; Miss
Marie Anderson, Chicago university
Miss Floy McMillen. Ypsilanti Mich ;
Miss Frances Googine. Chicago univer-
sity; Miss Myrtle Wallace, Lincoln, Ill !;
Miss Mary Edmonds Duquesne. Pa.
All the teachers of last year will re-
turn to their work at Gary this fall
with the exception of four of the grade
teachers. They are as follows: Misses
Helen Mattern, Edna H. Scott, Earla
Mills, and Harry E Reading
The following is a complete list Of
the special high school and grade teach
ers Of last year. all of whom will re-
The Lake County times. [volume] (Hammond, Ind.) 1906-1933, 1909-07-20
Do NOT LOOK
FOR SUICIDE
FINDINGS

The inquest over the body Of Nick
Lally. the bod carrier who was struck
and killed instantly at the Wabash
crossing in Gary, was held yesterday
afternoon by Coroner Gordon of Ho-
bart. Many Of the spectators who were
waiting on the crossing for the train
to pass and who saw the man struck
We're introduced in an effort to discover
why under the circumstances the man
was killed.
The suicide theory was thrashed out
thoroughly and it is not believed that