New-York tribune., 1909-02-14
DELECTABLE DISHES
OF VARIOUS STATES
GEORGIA ,POSSUM, LOUISI-
AN4 GATOR.
Nortk and South, East and west
There 4re Tidbits Of Fame
aid History.
By Mary w. Mount

.,,l,ev rested ;,pon wild ducks and grits, nahkeo
nv an array Of vegetables and washed down VIZ
rersiuron beer. Since Georgia entertainer fies
dent-elect Taft she viii be known as the s1aNe -
sr,oes,rn and potatoes. Georgia having Eet tNO
uace for 'possum. other states have eA.-iote
inzness 10 cast aside their traditions ot cooAeIS
in favor of some new dish which Woelo ieite0t -
ing fame upon their culinary skill
Texas No longer tips the sOmbrero 10 chill con
csrne. accompanied by frijoles and hot taTnales'
assembled about circular piece OF soaked Iel-e go
stuffed with red pepper and saVorles anu .
s.stufed beef These familiar vianos IL pus4eS
,,,-e- +l,a h,rse- TO New Mexico and Arizona FeI-
hans the plump Texas plover ard eniVenlhg pu44@7
20 the same way, for Texas blds lot iiiiio SS
server Of lanlTning bird tongues. Just no" leAdS
Is securing the world for three hundred hFe NUM-
,,- rsr5e with which to construct this to-be-
famous dish The New York market pToFeo oell-
cient and wired San Antonio that Il could not sup
Srlv this demand until honeysuckles booIneU on
broadway With its customary alertness 10 heeI
emergencies the metropolis offered TO Iufnlsh Ou'
terfies' wings for the feast.
This dificslty experienced by a sister state III
achieving fame based upon the tongue OF an unoe-
reDdable winged creature led Louisiana to win us
way 10 new culinary prominence py an under-
ground rather than an overland route AlAgaloE
steak IS heralded as the piece de resistance OF
Pelican state banquets in future
Fsoas vfvans who have circumnavisated the giooe
tc taste Louisiana cookery recall breakfasts OF
srine and fat Tapabottes, accompanied by nee
mullins fried plantans and hot breads; dinners OF
gunbo cIawfsh bisque pompano. aruchokes, mai
lard and teal duck, and appetizing midnight sup
rers OF oyster loaf They consider alligator steak
which has its drawbacks-a poor substitute Tor
slch dainties- The who stayed out late was
always able 20 placate his wife 10y producing a
fragrant oyster loaf and disclosing its toasted Inner
walls saturated with butter and oyster juice and
packed full OF piping hot fried oysters Now the
belated honecoIner wonders from just what point
Of view his better half will regard alligator
steak as a midnight peace Offering, and he trem-
lest 9fEgh a n
NAV offer an alligator bag even an alligator
purse instead.
President-elect Taft yesterday tasted one Of
Louisians's famed Creole dishes, the boullebaise"
WILL FLORIDA ENSERNE TARPoN7
Csourrnets are questioning whether Florida viii
unquish its title to chicken pfau and guava jelly
IN favor OF tarpon-Which is more enloyabie IN tne
catching than the eaJing-and they think il wise
visit California for the sake OF its delightful
climate while Vet its fame for enormous and de-
lcious crabs and shrimp and for methods of cook
ing these remains in the ascendant. The flavor OF
a breakfast Of California quail fingers on their
tongues. and they greatly concerned in the
Oriental question agitating that state because Of
any bearing it may have Prejudicial to appetizing
suFpers Of Chinese preparation wherein chicken
and bamboo sprouts ningle with other ingredients
IN way tickle the palate and entice an appe-
tite into even & marble image
Those celebrated Colorado and Wyoming feasts
OF Rocky Mountain grouse and rainbow trout
which account for the many pilgrimages thither-
ward of mountain elimbers-and the flavor of
Oregon's noted dish, Columbia River salmon, could
not make up TO lovers OF the trencher for any
losses in favorite viands OF California.
Maine boasts that lis Kennebec salmon. prepared
by native cooks. cannot be equalled for flavor the
world over. Massachusetts holds that fish that
ever grew a fin can compare with Goldfish a la
Massachusetts an5 goldfish balls the Ike OF which
ne cook outside the boundaries OF that state can
produce II supports a made famous by
generations Of New England cooks. and does not
admit that any other state serve such baked
beans and brown bread, such apple. mnce and
pumpkin pies such savory New England dinners"
and clam chowder that Coney Island cannot
successfully initiate, upon the making OF which
Daniel Webster prided himself more than on his
oratorical honors. and about which Noah Webster
would have coined new words OF praise had not
he been as certain the New Euslanders that this
dish was beyond praise and nc word could be
framed suitably 20 describe il
As for that other New England dish, mongrel
eoose-a mixture of wild and domestic goose,
cooked in a style make gourmands Of those who
dined upon it-Massachusetts las had 10 dispute
honors for its breeding and preparation with Yer
menf Rhode Island and Connecticut, and, 10 this
CAV also resents the claim Of the last named state
10 its unsharable renown for wild turkey. with
chestnut stuf1ng, and stewed eels- Like Rhode
Island it maintains that Connecticut's fame for
Indian pudding and johnny cake is based upon
recipes shared by themselves. Rhode Island
serts that its mince pies, clam bakes, squad.
turkey and oysters not cooked and served as
well by any cf its nelghbors; but Connecticut is
allowed its reputation for pumpkin bread "a loaf
made partly of pumpkin and cornmeaD and its
pumpkin pies and sauce, and is made welcome TO
the New England apple pie described in l75S in this
manner: its crust Is cnt broken II a wagon
wheel goes over IL Henry Ward Beecher's
recipe for making apple pie-ef which he was very
fond-is that employed by New England housewives
when they do themselves proud in their baking.
Vermont shares with New Hampshire its renoWn
1or incompatible buckwheat cakes with maple
syT1ip while New Jersey has been distinguished
for its buckwheat cakes with Jersey sausage-the
latter made Of native fed pork
NEW JERSEYS PIES.
New Jerseys pies not behind any in repute
during the time OF the Revolution, when the Hes
SLAMS encanped Hoboken Heights. made regular
Saturday raids upon Jersey ovens and captured
their fragrant and haky contents Bitterly the
New Jersey housewives resented this tribute to their
culinary skill ii never occurred them change
their baking day and outwit the Hessians.
Then as now, the fame of Jersey apple sass"
and cider went abroad. and its applejsck, "Jer
sey lightning" cossidered inspiration suffl-
cient 10 insure the accomplishment Of any deed
Juse across the river from New Jersey, Delaware
has long held palm for brOiled and panked shad
and for roc, parboiled egged rolled in cracker
dust and fired
Paankcd shad was introduced on the banks of the
Irl,- { fr-a