Los Angeles herald., 1909-03-28

there ever a time of year when the
question of dress Is not all absorbing
In olden days winter and summer out
its demanded earnest thought and
consideration for days and weeks, ous
that was only twice in the tweiNe'
month. Now spring and autumn fash
ions have to be reckoned with, and incl
dentally some women cannot resist buy
ing all the year round, whenever they see
a hat or gown that pleases their fancy.
In order to be comfortably, not to say
smartly, gowned, it is essential that
there shall be planned gowns for the DIT
ferent seasons Of the year, and textures
and styles that would not only look well
, but be appropriate in warm weather
would be most unsuitable and in truth
impossible on cold days. There has been
a great change of late, it is true, in the
more elaborate gowns that can be worn
summer or winter, in summer without a
wrap and in winter under long wrap.
There are the afternoon reception gowns,
the smart little simple frocks. as they are
termed, for the house, and also the thea
tire and restaurant gowns, which are on
virtually the same lines no matter what
the season.
Certain materials are considered abso-
utely impossible worn out of season. Vel
vet gowns in summer are taboo, and with
reason, while pongee, rajah and foulard
silks worn In winter, even In the house,
never look smart or appropriate, and
there are any number of other most attrae-
tive materials that are appropriate to the
hot weather but are unsuitable even for
the house in winter. The first costume
for the spring season is the tailor made
street gown of lighter weight cloth, serge
or cheviot than is made up for the winter,
and this is as rule, on severely plain
lines, with little or no trimming. 1t is, in
fact, as has before been said, simply a
practical, general wear morning costume
that can be worn in good or bad weather.
Although strict rules of dress require there
shall be no ornamentation. the difficulty is
solved by the facing of revers and collar.
either with satin the color of the material
or by wearing a second revers or turn
down collar Of white. silk, satin or linen.
This is one of the individual distinctive
touches that woman adds to a model
that she chooses ON account of its lines
and then modifies so that 1t shall be be-
coming.
ELABORATE STREET GOWNS.
Extremely useful and very smart this
season are the more elaborate street
gowns made with skirt, coat and waist to
match. These are also in the tailor order,
in so far that they give the effect of rather
severe lines, but there is no limit placed
on the amount of trimming light weight
cloth in all the new weaves, many Of
which look so like satin it is difficult to
distinguish what Is the material at FIRST
glance. Then the serges, the fine cords
and the cashmere de sole are also in favor,
and all are extremely well adapted to the
present styles Of dress, which SO sharply
define the figure. 1t is often discouraging
and mistifying when cory of a model
gown looks absolutely unlike the original.
A close inspection. will generally disclose
that for the sake of different color or
some such reason an entirely different
material will have been selected, whereas
the model gown was made of fabric
SO soft and pliable that it was an
easy task to fit or to drape 1t and the
other will be so harsh and firmly woven