Charlevoix county herald., 1909-07-17


The duke OF the AbruZZi is either
at or near Bombay, which city Is to
be the starting point of his expedition
to the Himalayas.
A considerable and unnecessary
amount of mystery has been thrown
around the plans of the ducal explorer,
who has been Economically supposed
to be seeking relief from his love
misadventures by Drawing the dangers
of the Indian glaciers, but the follow
ing details can be considered anthem
tic:
The party which accompanies the
duke of the AbruzZi consists or
Marchese Negrotto, Cavalier Vittorio
Sella, Cavalier Fflippo de Filippi. Sig
nor Botta, and seven guides from the
Courmayeur Marchese Negrotto Is
the dukes flag lieutenant in the Ital-
ian navy. Cavalier Sella accompanied
the duke on his former expeditions at
Mount st. Elias in Alaska and to Ruw-
enzori. His skill as a photographer
is we'll known.
to the interest of the book published
on the RuwenZori, and were one or
| the chief attractions of the account
given by Douglas Freshfield of his ex-
plorations round Kunchinjinga. Cava-
ler Filippo de Filippi also was a COM
panion of the duke on his Polar ex-
ploration, and though he could not
accompany him to Ruwenzori, wrote
the history of that expedition which
has since been published.
Signor Botta goes as assistant pho
tographer to Sella; he, too, was
member of the earlier expeditions to
Alaska and Ruwenzori, and has had
moreover some mountaineering ex-
perience in the Caucasus and the
Himalayas.
Besides Sella and Botta, four OF the
seven guides have had Himalayan ex-
perience. Joseph Petigax, who accom-
panied the duke on his former expedi-
tons, was for some time with DR..
Bullock Workman in his expedition In
1903 in Baltistan. Alexis and Henri
Brocherel were with the expedition Of
Messrs. Longstaff, Mumm and Brace
to the Nanda Dew group in 1907; and
G. Savoie was with the two Swedish
mountaineers who established a
Himalayan record by climbing Kabru.
$4,000 feet, in Sikkim.
The fact that the duke has ar
ranged for the collection Of coolies at
Srinagar leaves, of course, no doubt
as to the Karakram range being the
scene of his explorations, and the
large proportion of guides among the
members of the party would show that
his main object Is climbing.
Now, the western part of the Kara
koran has recently been explored By
the Workmans The central part of
the range, however, contains the high
est peaks of ALL grouped round the
great Baltoro glacier; and, as II Of
fers the most tempting ground for a
mountaineer of the dukes ambitions,
one may safely assume that it is here
that the choice of mountains to ascend
will be made.
The Baltoro glacier explored by Sir
". Martin Conway in 1892. when he
climbed Pioneer Peak. $4,000 feet. to
its south. 1t was revisited in 1902 by
the Eckenstein- Guillarmod expedition
of which an account was published
by Dr. Guillarmod on their unsuccess-
full attempt to reach K2. To judge
from the photographs which have
been brought back both IF K2 and OF
other giants of the range. the formid
able character of the climbing can
hardly be exaggerated.
In spite OF the assurance that the
duke of the Abruzzi has not yet fixed
his hopes upon any particular sum
NIT, one cannot doubt that Mount
Goodwin Austin, or K2 as it is more
Familiarity called, is the peak which
he will first reconnoitre Should
nearer examination prove that il is
hopeless, even for an expedition so ex
perienced and thoroughly organized as
that of the dukes, one may still be
sure from his previous record that he
will not return empty-handed.
Even If he does not succeed In seal
ing the 2S,250 feet of K2, there are
plenty of geographical discoveries tc
be made and other virgin heights t.
be climbed In, and especially beyond
the main range.
The region on the north of Kara
koran has been little explored, and
as both the duke and his iaglieuten
ant, Negrotto, are fully qualified fol
any typographical work, we may al
least expect from them some valuable
addition to our knowledge of the
Trans imalayan country.
From Bombay the party will pro
coed by train to Rawal Pindi. and
then to Srinagar. where the coolies
will be in readiness and the caravan
formed. From Srinagar on to lskardC