davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Omaha daily bee., 1909-04-04

-aHEE offerings for spring in the
DT waist line include a large
number Of novelties that are
- at present considered too high
If4IYl class for general popularity.
~ The popular styles In waists
consist OF the strictly tailored model in
mannish shirt-like style, the semi'taiiored,
which is at once very dainty and practical,
and a few fancy numbers, which are made
OF lingerie material. net and silk.
3 with the two-piece tailored suit nothing
looks as natty as the tailored shirtwaist
and the question Of taste is left to the
consumer. for there seems TO be an end
less variety TO choose from.
stiff Collars, Soft Finished Ieeves.
The general tendency for severe outline
effects has done much to popularize the
plain tailored waist, but these little blouses
have been so modified that they no longer
resemble the stiffly starched
Of some seasons ago. The tailored waists
are made of soft materials and the dainty
touches given to them by way Of trim
ming and other matters of detail make the
new tailored model a practical as we'll as
a comfortable garment The plain shirt
like waists. with stiff cuffs and collars,
are still to be seen, but there is a general
tSuutnCy LOT bOllg Alhloutu CulIS iii q
number Of the newer models show the stiff
collar, but the sleeves are finished like
the lingerie and fancy models.
Simple Styles Prevail.
Simplicity in cut is one of the principal
features Of the new waists. Shoulders are
narrow, sleeves are long and closely fitted
to follow the outlines Of the arm and every
suggestion Of blouse is precluded by the
---aN Al - - -
models. Collars are still high, but not so
decidedly pointed and not bcued too much.
The round and square Dutch necks are to
be seen among the dvanced summer
models.
The trimming arrangement offers much
variety. A number Of models show the
simple straight up and dow treatment;
other models are trimmed to form the
banding In empire effect.
Novelties in Whist F~astenfnRa.
Many OF the new tailored models are
made to fasten at the side in Russian
blouse effect. while straight front fasten-
ings. without the slightest suggestion Of
a pleat are one of the smartest ideas in
waist ~fastenings. A number OF the new
lingerie models show this departure from
the regulation back-button models. Many
models that are not fastened In front and
sides show blind buttons and other fast
enings and are invisibly closed In the back.
Buttons are still employed largely for
ornamental purposes, particularly the
heavy crochet variety.
OOlored Lingerie Seasons Novelty.
Among the numerous novelties of the
season are the lingeries which are dyed
in colors to match or harmonic with the
tailored suit. These are shown in all the
Omaha daily bee., 1909-04-04

new spring shades and are otherwise ex-
actly like the white lingerie models. The
marquisette waist is another novelty of
the season, which is, at present. only to be
seen among the high-class expensive
models. These are daintily embroidered
and lace trimmed. Crepe has ceased to
be a novelty and seems to have taken its
place among the better waist materials.
Crepes are seen In all white as well as in
color.
Waist Materials offer Wide Range.
The tailored waist is made OF various
grades of linen, plain and dalntily hand
embroidered, madras of various weaves,
dimities, Crepes, pongees. various other
silks and net. while the lingerie waist is
made of batiste, handkerchief linen, null.
lawn, swiss. plain and embroidered and all
over embroideries. Net tucking, net en-
broidered in floss and soutacho, Irish,
Renaissance, Cluny and Venise laces and
softly finished messalines are used for the
dressy models, Marqufsette Of high class
selling and a new cotton printed imitation
silk in foulard effect for popular use are
the novelty materials of the season.
Heavy Laces of Trimming Ideas.
One of the most striking ideas in new
trimming is the wide employment Of heavy
laces. The new cluny, real and in imita-
ton, is used very extensively. Hardly a
waist but that shows some touches of this
new trimming. Irish and Venice laces are
alsD used to a wide extent in conjunction
with the plain clunies. The net top laces
are used very effectively in combination
with the heavy trimmings. Walls are still
to be seen among the popular numbers,
but linen laces are, at present, much to the
fore. Crochet buttons, drop ornaments and
pendants of all kinds are popular trim
mings. Hand embroidery is one of the
most favored trimmings for the high priced
models, and there is a tendency for the
heavy embroiderlng in braided effect. Much
is done with soutache braiding.
Color quite Pronounced.
There is quite a tendency for color which
manifestes itself not only in the solid coll
ored lingerie and other waists to match
the suit, but many of the white and ecru
waists show touches OF color in the trim
ming. Colored embroideries, embroidering
and laces are the means to give these color
touches to the waists.
1t is no longer essential that the waist
should match the suit, exactly. Colors are
shown for blending and harmonizing eff
fects. For instance, a waist of pale mauve
may be worn with a suit of deep wistaria.
A pearl gray waist is chosen for a smoke
gray suit. Contrasting colors In waists
not too glazing are also well thought of.
Among the new colors in waists are the
new Empire blue, several rose shades,
myrtle and olive green's, banana, chemois,
wistaria and the soft pastel shades. Black
is much in evidence among the fancy lace
and net models as well as the plain tail
ored effects. E
Omaha daily bee., 1909-04-04
why the old Cow CHANGED Her Tune.

why are all those people flocking down
to Hiram Hardapple's barn2' asked the
old farmer on the hay wagon.
hts got a curiosity down thar" chuck
led the village constable.
THAT so2 What kind OF a curiosity
Is 80"
why. HIS old red tnd-white Jersey
cow. The other night TIE old crltter had
the collie and iii went down with his Ian
tern to give her a dose Of COW medicine
Blamed II he didn't make a mistake ana
give her a pint OF gasoline"
ID tell Didn't kill her. did it2''
mo; but, by heck, IL had a funny ef-
feet. Now, instead of going Moo moo
like any other sensible COW, she goes
'Honk, honkr like one Of them mar
blamed automobiles" chicaso NewA
Omaha daily bee., 1909-04-04

The invitation was there, but was de-
clined, that is all.
Now, let is take the same situation and
suppose that third hand held something
like a tenace over dummy in another
suit. OF course he would very much like
his partner TO come through that suit,
especially If 1t is a guarded king in
dummy, which third hand could kill, or
a trick which is essential to saving or
winning the game. Unless there is some
conventional way of showing that desire
the partner is extremely unlikely TO hit
upon the lead. and certainly not until he
has run off all his own suit.
In such a position. third hand holding
the same cards as before, ] 10 3 2, plays
the ten on his partners king, but gives
up the jack on the next lead of the queen,
thus making II practically impossible for
his partner TO put him in. or course, the
leader goes right on with his queen, only
TO discover that third hand must have
held four of the suit, but departed from
the regular system Of echoing with that
number As a rule the leader would miss
the two small cards at once and would
certainly place the deuce on the third
round.
m il looks TO the leader as If two leads
through dummy might be useful he can
stop his own suit while his partner still
has a small card of it. and can lead
through dummy. letting third hand put
him in again for another lead through
dummy after the first suit opened Is fin
ished.
An Instance of Play,
- - - -
Omaha daily bee., 1909-04-04
Waists for Spring

Tailored and Semi Tailored Models of Various Mate
~rials-Long, Close Fitting Sleeves, Shaped Collar and
Narrow Shoulders the Future in Waists Styles.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-04-04
ReadInE the sItuation.

II the original leader woull like a
lead up TO dummy's weakness he can read
the situation as inviting him to put third
hand in the lead. II he does not want
It, either because there is nothing 10 be
gained by II or because he does not caro-
to risk II, he goes right along with the
ace OF his own suit and makes third hand
give up his Jack and get out of the way.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-04-04
An Instance of Play.

The writer saw a hand Of this kind the
other day in which dummy had made IL
no trumps with four spades TO the A X
q. four diamonds to the A X, four clubs 10
the X ] and one small heart. This open
ing lead was the king OF hearts and third
Omaha daily bee., 1909-04-04

M0st AVOID C~OnfusiOn.
In the third method the lowest card is
The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1909-01-26
Rivalry Causes Fashion CHANCES.

While doubtless that first modifica-
ton of the merely useful garb which
we can fashion was induced by the in
stinctive feminine desire to please the
male eye, rivalry with her own sex
has subordinated this aim, says Louise
Cass Evans in the Bohemian. A Sc
verely plain head covering is useful:
when the fair wearer put a feather
in her hat she surely won masculine
approval-for there was the decoar-
tive touch. But when other women,
dominated by an ambition to excel
used the whole bird and several
strange feathers beside, the original
aim of pleasing the masculine eye was
lost in bitter strife to go a gorgeous
sister "one better" Then the contest
was on-a contest that has brought to
an astonished and not utterly inartis-
tic world such exhibits as the hoop
skirt, the puffed sleeves, the Merry
Widow hat, and the Misunderstanding
corset. Indeed, in the making of
women's fashions enter every motive
that has ever impelled femininity-and
the greatest of these is rivalry. This
is merely one writer's opinion, but it
has the philosophy of human nature to
strengthen the theory.
In these latter days of combinations
and industrial aggregations it is in
teresting to note that fashion has fol-
lowed the current of the times. For
were one fashion to run through two
seasons, what would the makers of
feminine apparel profit? Two-thirds
OF the sex would surely wear the same
garb till it was called in"-for, be it
said, the better half" of the world
does not spend good money without
pronounced ocular results.
So we have the yearly or semi
yearly change of fashion. From some
strange quarter of Paris or Vienna or
London comes annually the news of
the proper thing" The queen OF
England, perhaps, has designedly or
unwittingly put a plum-colored belt
on with dark blue riding habit and
prestol the wrise carry the news to
the worlds fashion centres, the facile
fashion artists devise a costly combi-
nation OF this "the latest" the fashion
magazines bear the tidings to the
waiting feminine world. A new fash
ion has sprung into existence, the
fashion dictators reap financial re-
ward, the dressmakers add to their
bank account, the world of women
wearing plum-colored belts ana blue
riding habits add to their spiritual
contentment-and maybe the sur
prised queen of England, who has
changed he'd belt, looks on in amused
wonder.
The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1909-01-26

The whole trend of education chang
ed when the three RS" ceased 10 be
It's war CRY, and II behooves the
ern mother to realize this change and
TO adapt herself to It. For. the school
and the home are but two agencies in
the training Of the child. two powers
which should work together for good
and the ideal relation between the
two is that they should be as one. It
was a very great Teacher who taught
that mo man can serve two masters %
Then let the mother conform her rule
and her judgments to the laws of her
sister kingdom
Let her hold for instance, that the
principle Of selfactivity is stronger
than blind obedience ever was: that
emulation, as a spur to effort. is the
abomination Of desolation: that a
sound mind I'm a sound body is more
to be valued than riches. that keen
eye for color and form. a steady hand
to guide a pencil or a tool a mind
alert. eager, and reasonable. "a heart
which feels its brotherhood with all
The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1909-01-26
Learn Directoire Pose.

In the directoire pose the steps must
be measured. and a stride is entirely
out of the question. A glide is better.
Arms hang loosely. or at least curve
themselves, obliterating the elbows.
Lace ruffies droop over the hands,
which are never held tensely.
The voice must be sweet and low,
and all slang or accented expressions
are tabooed. Conversation no longer
must tend TO athletics or politics, but
to the accentedly feminine. Flowers,
music, the play, dress, the shops, pets,
gossip OF the mildest sort, and above
all hero worship, are the themes.
In fact, the directoire girl must ape
the manners of the three-volume novel
heroine and put aside her good fellow
ship, her heavy boots and her socks
which she may have got direct from
Paris this spring, but wore only long
enough TO prove them unsuitable and
graceful.-Indianapol News.
The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1909-01-26
The Husband Who RebeIled.

"Once upon a time" a careless wo-
man married a careful man. He would
not go to the theatre and make half
dozen or more men and women rise
in the middle of the opening act of
the play to allow himself and wife to
reach their seats. Perhaps she lost
two good plays before she fully under
stood his determination to be on time
and then reformed. But she still
lacked training in other directions.
Her next disappointment was i'm a
trip planned to big city. where every
hour of her stay had been carefully
planned for amusement Cutting out
a day was a serious loss, yet she had
TO bear it, for he quietly shifted the
hour of departure to the next morning
after ne had been convinced that the
train on which they had booked seats
could not be caught. even by hurrying
She had never regarded engagements
to lunch with him downtown very Sc
riously until the day she waited one
hour In a fashionable restaurant and
missed her MONDAY meal because she
had not brought money enough to pay
for even simple luncheon. Today. af
ter five years Of marriage. she IS a
model of punctuality.-I indianapolis
News.
The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1909-01-26
Water as a Beautifier.

Sensible women do not run after
each new thing in the way of face
creams and complexion beautifers, for
they know a very simple aid TO god
digestion and a clear. pretty skin
This is simply water of which very
few women drink one-quarter as much
as they should in the course of a day
Drink 1t between meals and at least
three pints-or six ordinary glasses
day should be the average of an
adult.
A woman whose skin is the envy OF
others and who is believed by many to
resort to all sorts of beauty" devices
attributes ii entirely TO the plentiful
use of water, both internally and ex-
ternally. She drinks a glassful almost
every hour.
If taken, cupful on rising and an
other on going to bed, hot water will
help to reduce the weight of a stout
person. Cold water, unless taken
with meals. will not increase flesh, but
has a tendency to harden It and make
1t firmeT.-Woman's Life.
The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1909-01-26
CHARACTER AND TOILET.

Your everyday toilet is a part Of
your character / girl who looks
like fury or a sloven in the
morning is not to be trusted, how
ever finely she may look in the even
Ing No matter how humble your
room may be, there are eight things
1t should contain, viz: A mirror,
washstand. soap, towel, comb. hair.
nail and tooth brushes. These are
Just as essential as your breakfast,
before which you should make good
and free use of them.-Indianapo
News.
The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1909-01-26
A Professorship in Old japan.

The conservatives of Japan are pro-
testing against the appointment OF Ida
Uraka as professor in the medical col
lege of Toxic. She is the first woman
to hold such a position in Japan
While Japan is following the western
world in employing women as teach
ers in public schools, there is an out
cry even among educators at the ap-
pointment of a woman as university
professor. 1t is argued that a woman
is not capable enough for such a hign
position and that this appointment
may lead other women to try to in
wade the field of teaching in universe
ties.
AS for Miss Uraka's ability to fill
the position to which she has been APP
pointed, it is enough to say that she
was graduated from the Berlin univer-
sity with honors. Her teachers pre-
dicted for her a brilliant future. 1t
was even thought that she would be
given lectureship in some German
university, but this could not be done
on account of her imperfect pronun-
citation of German words which would
have made it difficult for students to
follow her.-New Haven Register.
The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1909-01-26
Wise Appeal.

An imperial rescript just issued in
japan enjoins on all classes in the
community the need of economy and
simplicity, the emperor saying that
Tor the purpose of keeping pace with
the constant progress of the world and
participating in the blessings of its
civilization, the development OF ma.
tional resources is essential. He
calls on all classes to act i'm unison
10 be faithful to their callings, frugal
IN their domestic management, sub
mlsslve to the dictates of conscience
ana the call of duty. frank and sincere
In their manner and Injured TO arduous
trlal eschewing all indulgence. Moth.
ing inner In the way OF an appeal to
a people has ever been issued by a
ruler.-Boston Traveller.
The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1909-01-26
Intensive EaNnIno.

Intensive and economical farming
Is more necessary in Europe than in
the United States, where the land is
more abundant and there is fertility
10 waste. That is why almost all
sugar beet seed is imported, because
the Germans have selected beet seed
for years with a view to a higher per
centage of sugar. The carelessness
OF American farmers in using scrub
potatoes for seed is one OF the prin-
cipal reasons for the deficiency in the
potato crop here.
1t is easily possible to secure a no
tato yield of $50 bushels to the acre.
instead of less than 100, which many
farmers averaged this fall. Two
hundred and fifty bushels at so cents
bushel would pay the farmer better
than 80 bushels at rs cents, and the
great potato-consuming public would
be correspondence better off.-New
York World.
The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1909-01-26
Victims Of Savage Instinct.

Only forty-four men have been killed
and fifty-seven seriously injured dur
Ing the hunting season this fall. In
former years the totals have been
much larger. The men who have
died have either been shot by compan-
Ions or have killed themselves by
means of firearms carelessly handled.
AS usual few roaming sportsmen
have been taken for prowling animals.
and "potted" by other roaming sports
men. The woods have become alive
with shooters. and. in the more civil
lied rural districts. the farmers fields
have been tramped over and over
again by wanderers in search of small
things to kill. The man who is not
by nature savage wonders II It is all
really worth while. and II there are
not enough other forms of invigorating
outdoor recreation 10 make this dan
gerous pastime unnecessary.
The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1909-01-26
Kindness 70 Animals

IL is not easy to determine to lust
what extent animal life is to be re-
garded as sacred. The moral and re.
ligious philosophers OF the world have
differed greatly on that point. Pro
lessor Darwin and others would have
us believe that vegetable life also is
endowed with perceptive senses and
perhaps with the consciousness of suf-
fering. The infection OF needless pain
upon animals is obviously to be con-
demned So is the useless destruc-
ton OF animal life, just for the gratif.
cation of lust for slaughter. But
human life and its needs are supreme
and 1t may well be held proper to sub.
ordinate animal life thereto destroy
Ing the latter whenever the welfare of
the former is thus to be served.-New
York Tribune.
The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1909-01-26
CAUSE AND EFFECT.
Good Digestion Follows Right Food.

Indigestion and the attendant dis
comforts of mind and body are GER
tain to follow continued use of impro-
per food.
Those who are still young and ro-
bust are likely 90 overlook the fact
that, as dropping water will wear n
stone away at last, so will the use OF
heavy, greaey, rich food finally cause
loss Of appetite and indigestion.
Fortunately many are thoughtful
enough 10 study themselves and note
the principle Of Cause and Effect in
their daily food. a N. Y. young wom-
an writes her experience thus:
Some time ago / had a lot OF trou-
bic from indigestion, caused by too
rich food. I got so j was unable to
digest scarcely anything, and medi-
cines seemed useless
"A friend advised me to try Grape
Nuts food. pralsing It highly. and as
last resort I tried Il. am thank
ful TO say that Grape Nuts not only
relieved me OF my trouble. but built
me up and strengthened my digestive
organs so that can now eat anything
] desire. But ] stick to Grape-Nuts. +"
There's a Reason"
Name given by Postum Co.. Battle
Crock. Mich. Read THE Road TO
Vile" I'm pkgs.
sver read the above letter. A
new one appears from time TO time.
They are genuine, true and fun Of hui
nap interest.
The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1909-01-26
Fashion Notes.

Pleated skirts have gone out.
The one-piece gown has a strong
vogue
Very large pocket flaps are pre-
dicted.
Satin is the leading fabric for even
ing gowns.
An automobile skirt and long coat
of heavy Drowned cloth is trimmed
with copper-colored velvet.
The pipings and cords used as dec
orations on evening gowns are often
as large around as ones finger.
Velvet in leaf shades will be a very
favorite fabric for smart afternoon
gowns, as will also finely corded otto
man silk
Hair ornaments include the coronet.
the coquettish bow, and the little half.
wreath Of roses or forget-me-nots man.
ufactured out of ribbon.
Styles are growing more simple in
effect If not reality, and the salient
Part Of the wardrobe for the coming
season is the tailor-made.
For day and night wear a girl wants
a pair Of pumps in patent leather OF
in Russia kid, the one eyelet tied
with a fat bow of satin ribbon.
Fashion allows skirts to be plain.
panelled OF pleated making only the
point that the decoration shall run
downward and not round and round"
The skirt that closes all the way
down with buttons and real button.
holes has remained in vogue. and is
seen made up in the smartest Of ma.
terials.
The barette is the thing these days
II is FIVE inches long and holds up the
huge knot at the back of the head.
when the hat is on nothing shows but
this barette.
The Calhoun chronicle. [volume] (Grantsville, W. Va.) 1883-1984, 1909-01-26
The Elderly Woman.


woman with a doll-painted face
said TO me with shudder: "OA, how
l dread old age"
told her not to anticipate a sea-
son of bleakness. but think Of its COM
pensatons. Let us keep our hearts
warm with sympathy. Scatter sun
shine. Have a little social life and
be neighborly. Contribute your share
to the cheer of the world, try to be
pleasing and dress neatly. Cultivate
kindness.
Think of our mistakes, and Judge
others all the more kindly. Be digni-
ned and serene as we go down the
sunset-slope. Keep busy and help 9TH
ers. Most people are selfish and look
after their own affairs first
Better not be recounting our all
ments, only when the doctor comes.
Let us place ourselves in the back
ground and listen to others talk. Gods
children need not be afraid of the fu-
ture any more than little children
need to fear the dark.
Don't grunt and act old: there are
many older than you. If chance Of
fers itself for recreation take it; keep
youth
Do not let your property all out OF
your possession. You will learn the
result as have others, to their sorrow.
People are willing to "go up higher
when the Master calls. When our
work is done the Lord in His mercy
will call us to rest in Abraham's bo-
som. "-Lillie Rice Stahl, in Indiana
Farmer.