East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1909-01-23
ASHTON LETTER BY
CATHERINE PAYZANT.

New York, Jan. 23.-The most pro-
nounced future that characterizes the
winter modes is the high waistline.
It Is not alone the Empire and Di-
rectoire influence that has brought this
about but certain other influences are
at work The sheathlike lines of the
Greek modes demand small hips and
only certain types of figures--the min
ority too-can fulfil this obligation so
to overcome this defect. so considered
the waist must not he apparent BY
placing the girdle little higher than
the normal position. the effect is at
least partially obtained.
II Is true that every woman cannot
wear the high waistlne, the attempts
at IL TO the contrary. For these wom-
en- the princess or semi-princess should
be assumed instead OF the long
straight back. The panel front and
slightly curved sides makes a far
better model for the elderly, or large
proportioned woman.
For the slight figure the high waist
line Is very becoming. The skirts of
such gowns are composed of few pieces
sometimes there are only two pieces.
but more convenient type has three
portions with a seam in the back The
fitted top is carefully arranged over a
bodice stay extending above the nor
NAL waistline, finished with a narrow
waist girdle. Buttons covered with the
material will prove a timely decor
alton and simulated button loops
should add to the feature
In a gown of wistaria satin cloth the
skirt had two pieces. the seams being
on the sides but which ouened to
little above the knees, showing a satin
brocade panel beneath and the sides
OF the panel ornamented with buttons
The upper bodice of the surplice or
der and made effective with n glimpse
Of lace and tucked net in the same
shade as the gown. The edges of the
waist and oversleeves are finished
with handsome bands of embroidery. !
Full length sleeves are attached to the |
guimpe which fall well over the hands !
The surpice style is one that is very
popular with the Greek model of skirt |
and Is generally becoming,
While the gown just described is cs- |
sentiolly n gown for receptions, matt !
inees or afternoon social affairs. !
another that will be ao2' )p late iarI
evening was developed from coarse |
black net over blue silk in one of
the new shades that had the effect of !
silver. No skirts at the present max
ing can be called full, but when soft !
thin materials are used in the con-
struction they often fall in carefully
laid folds. Seven cores used for the
under skirt and the net was draped
over II, laid in small tucks at the waist.
falling in graceful lines full about the
feet and at the bottom is band of
beautiful hand embroidery. The over
bodice Is lined with the same blue mat
terial as the skirt. 1t consists of
low corsage with straps or bands pass
ing over the shoulders and slashed at
the lower part, which gives the effect
Of tabs and shows to advantage the
uuutl VI tIllbl
net The corsage bodice is covered
with the same embroidery that adorns
he skirt.
A princess mode that would make a
pretty afternoon costume or with lit
lie change in the matter of neck and
sleeves would be pretty for evening
wear A soft shade of mulberry was
lsed in silk vole made over a silk of
he same shade. A continuous panel
n front is very becoming, as 1t appar-
,ntly adds to the height, and narrow
trips of velvet that define the waist
start from each side Of the panel. OF
course there is a slight train as there
s on all dresses that in any way dress
S in jumper style mounted on a lining,
10 that the latter can be faced with
ucked net or lace and sleeves of the
ame are attached to this lining.
there is high collar or short
leeves depends upon the time of wear
ng and there may be two underwaists
{ the dress must serve different func-
ions.
II you will take Foley's Orino LAxa-
i've until tha howeis hAcoma re1ula,