The sun., 1909-02-28


have spoken before. The smoky gray
have by no means been discarded, ane
the vapeur and taupe shades are repeated
in the new suitings. as are the soft wis
taria and mulberry tones, the dark ano
neutral blues, browns OF the warm earthly
tints and the bronze shadlngs. a number
OF lovely green's and long line Of beeuti-
ful beige colorings.
Among the lighter lines not too con-
spicuous for spring street wear are certain
brownish rose tints soft dull light blues
with dash Of green or OF lavender In
them. and delicate srays tinged with blues
or violet. --.-------'--'
Some OF the indescribably soft rose
shades touched with brown are much
fancied by the milliners and are often
most effectively relieved by violet tones,
but for combinations Of this sort artistic
feeling is a necessity; and in the tendency
toward combining Of several of colors on
one hat, tendency marked in the newest
smart millinery, one can foresee trouble
for the uninspired milliner and the woman
forced to depend upon her, Msrjolaine
(violet), muscadin (narshmallow pink).
vols de rose (brownish rose), zenith "a
new blue tinged with lavender). Danube
"a blue with grayish green tone) and host
Of greens are all on the milliner's favored
list and are all beautiful in themselves.
though they must be cleverly handled in
combination and are not too becoming.
When one approaches the subject OF
the new millinery it is hard to tear ones
attention from the theme and return to
frocks. 1t Is so quaint. this new millinery.
so absurd in many of it's forms. We shall
have more conservative models later on.
They always come after the bizarre and
original fancies have been exploited. so
the woman who does not lean toward jam
pot and casserole and flower pot and chop
ping bowl shaped crowns, who objects to
Russian and Polish turbans, and turns
her back upon Empire bonnets. need not
despair, She will be provided for; but just
now one smiles over the fantastic, and
the great millners are apparently turning
effulgent fancy loose.
Obviously the Empire period has sup
piled mcst of the inspiration. but the En-
pre period like our own tolerant time,
admitted wide variety, and upon only one
point can the new models be said to agree.
One and all they sit low on the head. after
the fashion OF the extreme winter models,
many Of them almost hiding the eyebrows.
And by the way. mssdames. this is
where we go back TO the fringe-or in
palmer American parlsnce the bang. Not
a squarely cut fringe Of courss-perish
the thought soft, forehead curls,
many Of which will be false and worn only
with the hat. One must have something
to soften the line where the hat drops low
over the forehead.
Naturally too the hair must be wider
at the sides. low and full at the back.
The new turbans are all large and a ma
jority Of the smartest are very simply
trimmed a twist OF ribbon, q chou. a
cluster of feathers answering the purpose.
and the manipulation Of the material
from which the big crown is made. fur
nishing the corHpiszity OF the model.
Drape1 crowns Of straw. net, silk or COM
bined straw and silk are handled in in
Vulnerable involved ways, and there are
crowns appallingly high. crowns immod-
erately large. crowns low on one side and
high on the other, crowns high at back
and low in front.
With the turbans the brm is inconse-
quential or non-existent. but there are hats
: with decided brims. some Of these brms
! becomingly and picturesquely wide. II
not 50 extreme as the wide brims of early
winter. majority of these brins droop
rather than roll. and though one sees
many hat shapes with sidewse tilt
lower on the head at the right side than
the left. this is accomplished by slight
bandeau inside the crown rather than by
upward rolling curves.
Crepe is used 10 cover some of these
larger hats. and occasionally one sees
model whose broad crown is covered with
tightly stretched gold or silver or gun
metal tissue. One extremely pretty model
with low wide bowl shape crown and vide
dropping or modified mushroom brm
had its crown plainly covered with gold
tissue. The brm was OF fine white erin
faced with gold, and around the low crown
and out over three.quarters OF the Orim
were draped soft folds of white silk NOUS
seine alternating with little outstanding
frills of fine gold lace
And speaking of crepe brings us bacl: !
once more to the fTock problem. All
of the handsome crSpes are in great de-
mand for spring and summer wear, and
there is o new crepe with an odd basket |
like weave which is particularly hand I,
some.
Cripe-ena is another novelty-a satin ,
mstre crepe cloth of exquisite supple
ness. and peau de crepe is a washable |
silk somewhat like a heavy India silk in
appearance. OF the French cotton crepes
We have spoken before, but they assume
a decided Importance among the wash
materials, and both in white and color,
in plain and embroidered designs, are
selling readily.
Foulards promise to have more than
their perennial popularity and are not
only SO serviceable but so we'll adapted
to present requirements in their supple
ness that they should meet many needs
The manufacturers have brought out new
designs in this material designs chiefly
Of a rather small character and not too
and some Of the bordered
foulards are charming, particularly plain
one tone silks with borders OF lace design
in white or with Persian or Egyptian
borders.
Yoiles are shown in all grades Of sheer
ness, and effieure. new. voilelike material,
exhibits lovely designs and colorings.
The chiffon cotton voiles. no longer to
be regarded as cheap either in price or
appearance. are largely in bordure de-
II n .s-..N 4