Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-05-23

..,syps that came from Paris during
 nresent week. There can be no
 @ soUbt that the.skirts are becoming full
 ". although the increase in fu4ness is slight. The latest fashion rumor, s,wsver. is that early Victorian styles to be made much of. After the
 'suder lines of the present style the
 sv eolors and ruffles that go with the ss,omised style will seem rather odd. v,.b gowns will call for large amount si material and twenty yards or more ~;Tl again become the usual length of msterial required for a gown.
 Inst at present the shops show foul ,,Ss in an unusually long range of pat ..,ro and colors. Their width, forty srs inches, makes them especially use ,,, for the present style of skirt and .,ucess gown. It IS surprising to ieo the wistaria, catawba and mulberry .hsdes back again after the strenuous '..,ou which they have just passed. ThsSs tones ale here in all classes and ,rades of silk, crepe and cloth and es- 's.ially are they noticeable in high r,oas tabrics. Silk cashmere, the ma ss,;al SO much sought for afternoon cos ,nmes. is offered in host of charming .O,ors There is a certain rich luster "a silk cashmere that is not obtainable in other materials. This accounts for Hs popularity and no doubt will make !, ana of the foremost fabrics of the coming season.
 The continued vogue of the princess sown materially affects the prominence 9, the coat and skirt suit in the ward ,obe and increases the importance of ,bs separate wrap. In the coat and vrap shapes for separate wear there i, an unusually large variety. Such garments range in style all the way from the straightest and flattest of back q, ua.i ana .uree-quarter length coats tn vouminous mantles which seem to indicate that the present style is soon 10 change to greater fulness.
 Some of the handsomest gowns seen on matrons this year have been bro .ades as rich as those worn by elegants of the nineteenth century. Brocades are in growing favor and the next autumn season IS sure to see them back in all the glory of old'time prestige. If has been hinted that the weaves of decade ago are also to be here spain, but such day will have to stand back until the disappearance of supple stuhs which carry everything before them now.
 The length of skirts varies almost as much, from one season to another, as the shape of sleeves, and that IS say ing A good deal. However, all walk ing skirts must clear the ground all around this year. The skirts of the new tailored suits for travelling and shopping are all walking length. More handsome suits, in broadcloth, rajah and other fabrics used for dressy wear, ap- pear with a short train. Walking skirts are capable of some variation. ius snolt woman should wear hers as long as she can without touching, while the tall woman will look well in much shorter skirt. Women of medium height will find a skirt two riches off the ground an effective length. Genuine princess gowns should always have train. This is not true, however. of the semi-princess frocks, where the belt destroys the actual prin- cess lines. All evening frocks, except those for dancing, are made with trains.
 Paris is wearied of the net yoke and sleeves for simple gowns, and has re- turned to sleeves of the fabric. women who are making new gowns should take nOtce. Not only is this true of special fOuard, but it is true of almost every hgh.priced model that smart women have ordered from Paris. Those who dress individually have been taking out net sleeves and replacing them with fabric ones for some weeks, but it IS only now that the idea will become pop ular. The sleeves are slightly full, pufed out quite a little at the elbow, then frightened into a cuff of net, fou- lard and soutache, which is buttoned over the wrist and flares over the hand.
 As the season wears on it is noticed that many of the smartest gowns are Of the jumper class, with blouses of net dyed to match the material, the net usually more or less soutaehed in self tone. The blouses are lined with China '4k, usually Tn wh te or light color, With the effect of Tightening the cos tune, Folded girdles in their normal pIaee at the natural waistline are used In these frOcks. Cap sleeves trimmed With embroidery or slashed at the back and laced across in lattice effect arc another feature of the blouses.
 : It IS reported that at Palm Beach every other woman wears a lowered chiffon scarf, or one of the Syrian metal @ualrs draped over her shoulders. The i'"'Fto drapery is in hood effect, the iOids of the scarf hanging loosely down Ge back. The shop windows are now iCll of the brilliant Syrian searfs, some