davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1909-05-09
FASHIONS AND FADS.

The flower rosette Is very popular.
Lace heads the list for the mantelet.
let and amber are increasing In favor.
Tho long drop is the favorite type Of
earring.
Gowns are elaborate. but never for a
moment fussy.
Frequently panels are finished with
knotted fringe.
Broche fabrics will be much worn in
the near future.
Poppies of unusual size are seen on
some of the hats.
In yokes the sun-ray pleatings are the
thing just now.
Jet bracelets seemingly cannot. be too
wide nor too heavy.
For. run-around frocks nothing is more
popular than serge.
The wrinkled riding boot Is more used
than the plain one.
TURQUOISE sometimes looks remarkably
well with silver hair.
Side combs with SILVER tops are most
effective with gray hair.
One OF the very newest things in smart
footwear is the empire pump.
This season brings a large and fascinat-
ing variety of Japanese silks.
Roumanian embroidery is used on hats,
on frocks, blouses and coat suits.
There seems to be little doubt that the
Evening star., 1909-05-09
PARIS FASHION NOTES.

THE shops are full Of delightful "trip
peries for young girls. Many of the
costumes are far too extrayagant in
style to seem intended for other than for
eign buyers, for the French mamma is
generally a person of sense and taste
where her young daughters raiment is
concerned. But everywhere the lovely
things give ideas for reproduction in SIM
pier form. so French buyers take look
at them and order the less costly thing
from little dressmaker.
These modest sewers charge from three
to six dollars to make beautiful dresses.
and the least thing turned out has the
stamp of elegance. What Paris dress
cent muslin and three OF ribbon is some
thing yet to be found out.
Certain little summer coats are now or
dered for these wispy dresses. Those for
maiden wear are In linen, all oyer en-
broidery and dimly tinted silk or fine
wool. Cashmere Is much used for these
coats. which are In shape like narrow,
sleeveless kimopO sacks. The garment
comes to the knees. and the side seams
are left open and trimmed UP with the
bordering all round the garment. Goats
of linen and lace may cover silk gowns.
Misses hats are most picturesque. Poke
bonnets are seen for girls as old as sew
enteen. these being fashioned OF loose and
very ornamental straw braids and trim
med in countrified ways. One chapeau OF
this sort had positively sunbonnet eff
feet. The scoop. which was rather short
across the head, was finished at the face
edge with a frill Of the straw over one OF
thin lace. quaint ribbon-white barred
with pink to form big checks-trimmed
the left side with large loops and ran in
a flat bias line down the right, where the
bow of the other side was balanced by
loose bunch of tiny pink flowers of the
bachelor button sort.
Evening star., 1909-05-09
Little Worry a Good Thing.

Women upon whom don't worry cal
endars and booklets have been showered
may now revenge themselves upon their
enemies. Until lately the don't worry"
f1ends have had 1t all their own way, for
no one could deny that worry was bad
thing. But now science has come to the
rescue. certain amount of worry. we
are told, is not only unavoidable. even by
the wisest women, but 1t is necessary to
health. Perfect contentment Is not a
normal condition, and those who attain 1t
pay the penalty in a disagreeabfe amount
of adipose tissue. In short, say the au-
thorities, it Is well to worry just a little.
just for the sake of ones figure. Discon-
tented women, 1t seems, rarely get fat.
Evening star., 1909-05-09

These three styles constitute the COR
rect coiffures for young girls, and to ap-
pear well on graduation day girl must
arrange her hair in one Of them. The
reuze arrangements are generally becom-
ing, but for fear you may happen to be
the unbecoming girl try several effects
before you decide upon the graduation
headdress. The hair punched In queue
at the back and tied with q bow that
reaches from ear to ear, Is q bridge OF
hope for many heads. as this girlish
mode is suited to the many and Is always
in good taste After sixteen and half
though. 1 must confess that tucked up"
locks are the thing.
But to go back to first principles, don't
forget that the loveliness of these gar
landed effects will depend upon the clean
illness and gloss Of your hair. Do not,
however. leave the shampoo until the last
moment, as newly-washed hair is apt to
be unruly. Take the head wash quite
five days before the important one, and
Evening star., 1909-05-09

receive in all cases are laid upon the tea
tables in their rooms, where they can be
seen and admired by the guests.
But in reckoning upon the shower OF
presents this day brings to you do not
forget that each Of the teachers who have
worked so hard to bring you to this
triumphal point must be remembered. If
the gift is to be given by the class make
every sacrifice you can, have your money
donation as large as possible. and IL
there are individual offerings let yours
be accompanied by a tender word of ap-
probation.
Here is letter Gladys herself has COM
posed for the gift which goes to her ia
vorite teacher:
Dearest Miss Raymond: Will you take
this little fan, with my deepest appre-
citation for all the help and love you
have given me? And though am going
to leave your care forever now, please
don't forget me. Let me come and see
you sometimes, and feel always that you
are my friend. Your affectionate pupil,
"GLADYS LEE"
1 know Miss Raymond will love this lit
tie letter more than the beautiful French
fan-Which, by the way, was bought with
money long saved up for the purpose
for it has come straight from Gladys
sweet young heart. 1t will be one of the
dear keepsakes which will brighten more
Evening star., 1909-05-09

and that the girls themselves, poor dar-
lings, knew nothing at all except that you
must comb your hair every morning and
braid 1t in pig tail at night.
AS they were all old friends. I went on
shopping expeditions with them to prove
the weight Of my sermons, and soon lad
en- with things which looked bitterly like
mouse traps, with other things which ap-
peared to be the dead mice themselves,
with bottles of glossy fluids and with
fruit and flower and leaf and ribbon gar
lands there they were at last going home
rejoicing.
so. though your seventeen-year-oldc COM
mencement frock may be thing OF
sanity simplicity. your seventeen-year-
old head must celebrate graduation with
untold frivolities. Stringy. unpuffed, un-
waved hair hair of inadequate quantity.
must look to artifice for graduation glory.
Most beautiful are the coiffure effects
for girls who have reached the dignity
Evening star., 1909-05-09

little still-little-girl look. But. happily,
the preference is still for very simple ef-
fects and on the right wearers these are
abetted by the scant gowns.
For commencement gowns ribbons are
eternally suitable, for what is necessary
above all things is to have the toilet
for graduation express that tender line
which lies between maidenhood and wom
anhood, and nothing does this so sweetly
as ribbons. So IL you want sash for
your graduation dress. insist on having
one; even tie your hair with huge rib
bon bow at the back, and trim your skirt.
your bodice. your sleeves with ribbons.
Only do it all fatty, having dress bands
lie without a gather and the bow Of your
sash looking with its short ends as II 1t
came out of the ark. A widish ribbon
If the small fiat bow does not appear at
the back, the ribbon Is wrapped half
again around the waist and allowed to
fall In with knotted ends ct the front OF
the dress in the way pictured In one Of
this weeks models.
AS to other trimmings. anything which
lies fatty and is sufficiently youthful may
be used. provided 1t goes with the dress
together on handsome linen gowns. and
muslins are often beautif1ed with bands
of net worked with floss in zigzags or
dots; and though this fancy Is not partic-
ularly new, a fine muslin embroidery may
be put with silk to create look Of splen-
dor.
And now let me dwell especially with
commencement gowns through the follow
ing models.
Figure A is little dress very typical Of
the season, and one excellently suited to
graduation purposes. The design is for
girls from fourteen up. and many varia-
tions from present details are possible
For instance. instead Of the high stock
here presented. the neck of the guimpe
could be slightly cut out while the plain
waist line. though eminently fashionable
as shown might be covered with just
such a ribbon sash either of those
have described. The dress is made in this
instance of embroidered muslin. but any
of the materials mentioned are also suit
able.
For a girl of sixteen about ten or twelve
yards Of material twenty-four inches wide
would be needed for a medium figure.
The embroidered muslin bands on the bod
Evening star., 1909-05-09

that when these are properly covered and
decked with pillows the bed chamber.
with its books, flowers and other girlish
ornaments has quite sitting room air.
On graduation day the occupants fit up
tea table with light refreshments. which
are offered as each guest enters the room.
There may be fancy biscuits OF several
sorts. light sandwiches. fruit, bonbons
and fruit sirups or lemonade. In no case
is it permissible to show masculine guests
into this living room without the presence
Of third and mature person as chap
eron.
OF course. it is impossible for a girl
to carry about all the flowers sent her on
this day of girlish glory. Only the bou-
ouet which matches her toilet. and which
her parents or best friend has supplied,
looks we'll in the hand: so to accommo-
date all the other posies one may natu-
rally expect 1t is well to provide ones
self beforehand with a number OF mex
pensive vases.
Buy three Of these, and when putting
your flowers In them hang the card or the
donor to. one stem, 80 that It Will snow
when the giver appears. At some scnocls
# is thought proper for the girls VINO
have received flowers to mass them IN
their classrooms and donate them at
the end of the day to some hospital or
settlement. The books. bits of tewelry
or any other strictly personal gifts 1hey
Evening star., 1909-05-09

ice call for two and three-eighths yards.
while five-eighths yard of all-over lace
will make the chemisette.
An underslip Of pale yellow lawn would
be pretty with this dress.
Figure displays very charming
model for a dress for a smart boarding
school where an evening dance would be
likely to follow the days exercises. 1t
would also be an especially valuable ad
junct to the summer wardrobe. for few
persons can afford to design a dress pure
ly for commencement purposes.
a plain or fancy net. silk mousselfne
and surah are all suitable materials. If
of plain net. as In the model. the bands
on the neck and sleeves of the bodice
should be worked with silk floss on the
same material. The directoire sash and
skirt bands could be of two widths of rib
bon. or else of soft silk cut bias; out If
color is used for this trimming, the under
slip necessary for such a dress will be
prettiest in white.
For a medium sized girl of seventeen
twelve yards of net would be required.
But the model is possible Tor girls as
young as fourteen.
The three dresses in the third picture
are for girls from fourteen to seventeen.
and all are excellent for high school grad
uations.
Figure c stands at the left of the pic
ture and the dress is in a handsome quail
ity of white linen with soutache braid
shaping the band trimming and becoming
Eu1mpe. Ine buttons are OF White ell
broidery in ten-cent size, and white pom
gee could also very we'll be used for the
model If a twenty four-inch linen is en-
ployed ten yards would be required for a
medium figure.
Model d is shown by the middle maid
and is a dress suited especially to an un-
developed girl Of fourteen. The frock is
of dotted swiss, with valenciennes lace In
sertions and guimpe. of all-over va!
The pretty front sashes are of pale pink
ribbon, and for girls Of this age these gay
streamers may also be put at the back oi
a dress.
White mercerized batiste is the simple
texture of Figure E, the last dress in thi:
group But it could also be made Of 9
good quality of cotton crepe, OF fine
American lawn or of a soft dotted ol
checked muslin. 1t Is suited to girls from
sixteen up, and despite the tucking call:
for very little material.
Evening star., 1909-05-09

three ahead OF another class that is no
reason to feel any sort Of superiority.
Once you were junior yourself, and
through your gentle consideration of the
feelings Of younger girls on this day you
are not only insuring their respect and
liking for a lifetime, but are setting a
proper example for decent school be-
havior. In short. the girl who Is back
ward in her studies. who has failed in
her examinations perhaps, must be more
tenderly treated than ever on this day OF
triumph for yourself.
AS to other behavior, the usual school
generally gives out a list of rules for the
day Perhaps the principal addresses the
girls first on the subject of dress. In
that case she may recommend that the
whole class decide upon the same ma
terial, leaving the style of the dresses tot
each wearer's taste. She may say that
1t is not good form to wear much jeWelry
nothing perhaps beyond a chain and
locket, a bangle bracelet and class
ring" If the school Is a private one OF
smart pretenson, since 1t is the custom
for the graduates to show the guests the
"dens' in which they have lived and
worked for four years, the principal may
suggest the flower decoration of these
and tell what little bites to serve the
visitors.
At the big colleges. where certain in
dependence is allowed, 1t is the fad now
to have beds in the form Of couches. SO
Evening star., 1909-05-09
KEEPING UP
APPEARANCES
<xrF 1 married tomorrow" remarked
the bachelor, my choice would be

<<fF married tomorrow" remarked
the bachelor, my choice would be
a woman who could keep UP ap-
pearances."
That's just like man." sneered his
sister-"all for outward show"
by no MEANS" he explained. "A wom-
an with that talent must possess Of neces-
fty others within her. I'm tired" he went
on. simply tired to death, of he per-
fectly good, perfectly sincere woman who
says, Take me as am; If you don't like
me- leave me" The world is full of girls
like this who are as devoid of outward
show or artifice as a block of wood and
who resent with the fierceness Of an hon
est elementary mind any attempt to i'm
prove on nature or to make things better
than they are
But, heavens, what would business be-
what would the world be. If we all showed
all our weak points SO frankly and SO
mercilessly?
Its our duty to conceal them. What's
the sense of being cross If you are cross.
of appearing poor II you are poor of look
ing sick and yellow when touch of
powder will set you right? It's just stu
pidity and self1shness instead of honesty,
l tell you.
Give me the woman who has fine
gracious to people when things are at
skies and sevens with her. Give me the
wife who will neither betray my failure
nor my poverty. who will always present
smiling, prosperous appearance, no mat
ter how bad things are. Give me the lady
who Is born diplomat. who never shows
her feelings in public. who is always cour-
teous in private. and l want the woman
who will not appear on the street with a
shiny nose because It's natural. who
Evening star., 1909-05-09
The Girl Who Is Too Informal.

When you are presenting your young
friends to older persons you are naturally
on your guard to do 1t in a formal and
dignif1ed way. but do not think you can
throw fornality to the winds on other oc-
casions. A very pretty girl on the porch
of country club the other day made
herself conspicuous by an exhibition OF
bad manners due to Indifference rather
than to ignorance. one felt. for her ap-
pearance indicated social advantages. So
she must have known that when she
darted across the porch, snatched girl
friend by the arm. pulled her across to
the rail and presented her there to q
Evening star., 1909-05-09
VASSAR CAKES.

These little bites, which, of course, are
named after the great school, are corn
meal hoecakes, served hot and eaten with
strained honey, brown sugar or New Or
leans molasses. But the hoe has nothing
to do with them. A batter is made with
cornmeal and cold water, seasoned only
with salt. The batter must be SO thin
that it literally pours from a tablespoon.
one of which is put at time on hot
iron griddle for the cake. The usual
griddle holds three or four cakes, and
as soon as these cook they are thinly
coated with butter and served In hot
plates. The sugar. honey or molasses is
nut on at the table
Evening star., 1909-05-09

and ribbons and wreaths must give the
look Of abundance.
A charming hair arrangement Whlcn
makes a girl with classic features and
good complexion simply adorable, is made
BY two braids, which, plated with
fourth strand of silver or silk ribbon, sur
round the head like a wreath. The hair
is parted at the back for this form OF
decoration. and when the braids are made
they cross there before going around the
head.
With almost every style a middle part
ing, with the hair puffed widely at the
sides, is observed, and thougn there are
rltrafa shionable maids who taboo the big
ribbon bow at the back of the couture;
or at the neck, there are some who stlil
wear it with great success. In fact. this
big bow is the only possible finish for the
heads Of Younger girls-those whose ages
permit only the looped-up braid at the
back and a very slight crimping OF the
front
Evening star., 1909-05-09

young man with whom she had been pre-
viously talking and who was obviously
waiting for this harum scarum introduc-
tion to take place she was doing an ex-
ceedingly ill-bred thing.
1t was rude to the girl dragged over In
this manner without knowing what 1t was
all about. Had she known she undoubtedly
would not have gone. for we all resent
liberties. and all girls know perfectly well
that 1t is not their place TO go forward
when young man is to be presented. but
that II Is his place to go or to be brought
to them. And all properly brought up
young men know this. but perhaps this
one was not conversant with the usages
of good society. or perhaps he thought it
a Joke" to ungallantly stand there and
let the girl be brought to his side. What
ever his reasons. he put himself In . bad
light, as did also the pretty girl.
Evening star., 1909-05-09

OF instep and longer dresses. Many of the
charming styles shown by the Greuze
portraits are copied by these coiffures,
such heads presenting a waved. generous
effect and lovely ribbon bandeau of va
rious sorts holding down the front hair.
The back. which seems a mass OF combed
out curls bulges far from tho head. the
fluffy bulge also showing at the sides OF
the face. Directly in front of the ban
deau the hair is very flat. but behind it
the soft pompadour begins, and, OF
course, 1t is under this. and under the
tumbled mass at the back, that the artf-
fetal supports are used.
With such hair arrangements the soft
encircling ribbons are by far the pret-
tiest ornaments. but there are some va
riations of the style which are most
lovely with wreaths Of little flowers and
fruit.
SO your graduation dress is delicate
NULL with sweet lace trimmings. over
a wild rose pink slip. The head wreath
Evening star., 1909-05-09

are used. When plain material Is en-
ployed for the guimpe the sleeves are
generally tucked, and an attractive way
of fashioning this trimming Is to have the
tucks rather small as far as the elbow, a
tribe wider toward the center OF the fore
arm and quite large toward the shoulder.
This arrangement varies the monotony Of
the one-sized effect. To go back for a
moment to the princess gown-there are
cleverly designed models with the skirts
Joined to the short-waisted bodice. This
joining is effected with buttons that have
the appearance of being a trimming and
not a means to an end. In white serge or
white tussore this model Is useful item
In the summer wardrobe. When worn
with the coat to match the ensemble idea
Evening star., 1909-05-09

new weaves Of pongee. also silk serge and
foulard. will be the main fabrics of the
summer.
Earrings. brooch and necklace matching
In color make a pleasant ensemble.
Very many gowns have touches OF hand
embroidery on them this season.
special feature Of the more exclusive
millinery just now Is the aigret-
For the summer parasol nothing could
be more novel than the English chintz
The tunic is becoming an all-important
part Of the dress Of the present season.
The jacket is one of the revivals seen
in some Of the very handsome imported
costumes
Cabouichens of straw with jewel CEN
ters will be seen on some of the smart
hats.
Skirtings are nearly all striped, which
adds to the long-lined effects of the sea-
son.
Messaline silk in exquisite dresden pat
terms makes the dainties Of underskitrs
Very unusual are some Of the French
cheviots, which show the Roman stripe
effect.
Midsummer frocks exhibit embroidery
rather than the lace trimmings OF former
seasons.
Shirrinz over cords and In tiny puffs
will be seen more and more as the season
advances.
Fxcept for an occasional scant fiounce,
all trimming Is put on in lengthwise
form.
Figured as well as striped henriettas
are seen in the shops in all the newest
colorings.
Imitation cluny lace in linen makes very
effective trimming for wash dresses.
Evening star., 1909-05-09
A FEW BEAUTY HINTS FOR SUMMER DAYS

interest in the present ballot fight and
who indulge in beauty doctoring merely
as first aid to the injured members or as
an ounce OF precaution against greater
ills For the latter class 1 offer the fol-
lowing aids to good looks for use during
the summer days that will soon be upon
US:
Before going on a water excursion In
summer the face, neck and hands should
be bathed with pure cold cream. On re-
turning from the outing take a sponge
bath and afterward fill a basin with luke
warm water, into which plunge the face.
Evening star., 1909-05-09

on the last night put up the locks to be
waved in rag curriers'. Such crimpers,
which are made Of narrow strips of cot
ton rag, wet with alcohol. are the least
harmful OF all the methods used. But
avoid having too much "kink." as q large
loose wave is the thing.
Take the hair out OF the curriers' the
hrst thing In the morning, and II there is
too much undulation smooth some or IL
out with a brush slightly sprinkled with
glycerin and rose water. And Il you
have no waste hair for your stuffings. pull
out the bought rats SO that they will be
light and not packed In hard wads. Rats
of natural hair are the best. and may be
bought in the exact tints required
KATHERINE MORTON.
The long scarf, stenciled. embroidered
and painted, will be one of the most pop
ular fashions OF the year, but this time
1T will appear draped on the bodice and
skirts OF ball GOWNS
Evening star., 1909-05-09

that is lacking in some of the more t1-
compromising models.
The new linen princess gowns are per-
fectIy stunning: in the French weaves
they are extremely expensive. priced
one In a charming shade of pale yellow
trimmed with soutache braid in a fashion
able shop and was told by madam that
the price was $125. But" added this
siren saleswoman. "such frock Is quite
as smart as silk this season for bridge
parties and all summer morning and aft
ernoon functions"
Guimpes and sleeves on these princess
models are of net, lace and chiffon and
are dyed to match the gown material: but
as the color is usually light this effect is
more becoming than when darker shades
Evening star., 1909-05-09

should be tiny pink roses, set rather back
to frame the face in a sort of halo, and
finished at the side or front with a bunch
of pink baby ribbon.
A girl with yellow under her white
dress may wear a chapet of wheat ears,
while girl III all white can choose a
wreath with dangling cherries or else a
side knot of big gooseberries or tiny
crab apples, which look natural enough
to eat. For all these are supplied for
maiden wear and are permissible for
graduation.
But. of course a girl with the crinkly.
crisp hair. which makes such show itself.
will not need the rats usually required
for these lovely structures. And others
may use their own hair combngs, If they
have enough on hand for suffers, and SO
escape the possible imputation Of false
hair. AS to false hair. not a hair not
grown upon the head is permissible, for
fashion must draw the line somewhere.
The mouse traps and the rats, crimping