The morning Astorian. [volume] (Astoria, Oregon) 1899-1930, 1909-04-25
LATEST new YORK FADS.
AND FASHIONS

NEW YORK, April 24-T'he latest
reports from Paris indicate that II /
fashionable women Of the French
capital do not seem inclined TO give
10 their scant, clinging skirts AMI
gowns OF the Empire and Directoire
model and are ordering new costumes
built on the same lines potwithstand-
ing the fact that some Of the most |
famous dictators Of fashion have |
abandoned the extreme lines Of the |
Directoire and Empire in favor Of
somewhat greater fullness. However
II is still early in the season and warm
weather may prove more powerful
agent in bringing about the expected |
change than even the "ipse dixi" Of
the leaders OF fashion.
II Is reported on good authority
that there is an increasing demand
for fuller cleevcs in Paris. II has
actually been employed in foulard
gowns. II is considered as conces-
sion to the coming warm weather and
il is also explained that the gathered
sleeve become necessary with the ui-
expected gathers Of the foulard skirt.
The new sleeves are described as a
sort Of bishop sleeve, although less
full. They are gathered into a bishop
cuff or wristband, but not, as yet, fu,
led into the armhole. The upper part
Of the sleeve is gathered into three
or four inch sleeve cap fitted to the
arm.
Frequently the cap and the wrist
band are OF the fouiard and the full
portion or middle Of the sleeve is
net Of the shade Of the gown. lined
with white chiffon or white net On
some models this central portion OF
the sleeve is made Of cream or white
batiste. Actual puffs and frills arc
seen about the elbows, showing out
( from beneath the upper half of a
sleeve that is no longer as close fitt-
:. ing as the winter models.
. There is no prettier and dantier
" material for summer wear than foul
!. ard. II is light and cool; it may be
!. procured in many varied textures, and
= Il wears remarkably we'll For many
:. years the silk which was the original
representative OF the foulard family
= y was kind Of thin surah. in dark
d colors decorated with a splashy des-
" ign in white. This often took the
= form OF dots or shooting stars, and,
, while the material was satisfactory in
: weight and wearing quality it was
not at any time particularly beautiful.
But the last few years have seen a
er great change, and now fouiards differ,
and each separate one is known by
some new name.
In the first place, there is the crepe
foulard, lovely thin crepe with the
Il design Of the typical foulard carried
Il out in white OF in lighter shade Of
8 the color OF the background. This Is
for more elaborate gowns than the
ordinary foulard, and it is really quite
B pretty.
h Then there are some pretty foul
d ards OF color, with designs in black
n This is quite departure, and makes
lovely material for the summei
gown designed to be worn on th'
street without a coat. There arr
rainproof foulards, for the rage fo'
making things indestructible ha
spread even to the summer silks
These fouiards have many advantage
especially during the changeabl
weather of early spring, when on
b goes to outdoor sports, and feels re
gret in offering a pretty silk to tn
ravages of the elements.
Resides these. there are bordere
fouIards and the charming silks wit
the graduated dots. These make Il
most beautifully, but one must b
careful that the design for the gov
suits the requirements of the sill
Among the thin silks that answer I
the description Of foulard, we ais
find the crepe with the new basket
like weave. Crepena is another noN
elty, lustre crepe cloth of perfeC
suppleness. and peau de crepe whic
resembles India silk. 1t is closel
woven, crepey in effect and washe
we'll
Among the satin-faced silks ther
is a fine quality Of foulard whic
ear. all t,c chara ',rist'c, Of h
old.faSnion"d silk except that it ha
a smooth satin surface. There ar
also. other satin-faced silks, many {
(which are quite new this year, metec
charmeuse, satin majestique, sati
cachemire, liberty and messaline. A
Of these summer silks are quite al
properate for street wear when mac
up in the conventional one.pieC
gown. They need little or no trim
ming; in fact, the texture Of the mi
terial is so lovely that the less de
oration is used, the better. Guimp'
for these dresses should be made
tucked nets or laces,
y To the girl who finds her allowan'
y for summer clothes somewhat limite
the cotton yoiles are a boon, as cor