Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-08-29
Pads and Fashions
By Florence Fairbanks

NEW YORK, August 2s.-Autumn
 models are beginning to arrive from Paris in great numbers and all the prominent makers of artistic costumes are represented. Those who expected
 radical departure in style from that
 of the summer will be disappointed.
 The changes in style, if there are such,
 are so subtle that only the eye of an expert could recognize them. Tsere
 seems to be no general and outspoken
 tendency to any violent change from
 the present vogue, neither in outline, cut. material or color. Of course, heav in the fall, but the majority of the
 models imported are intended for early autumn wear and are made of practical ly the same kinds and weights of ma terials as the summer models were. The gown with long hip yoke and pleated skirt is seen in many models,
 and usually the hips are bound with
 wide sash tied in large bow in the back. Sometimes the skirt is plain to
 point below the knees, and there it is bound by a sash, with fuller skirt
 beneath Such gowns seem to be grow l ing in favor. and they are worn with l the new coats. which are quite short and unlike those which were in vogue during the summer. Even plaid and polka dot sashes are used upon dark
 gowns of serge and foulard, and the eff | feet is rather striking.
 The apron tunic. a style akin to the
 moyen age, is also represented among the models and others have skirts which are themselves draped and tied | into knots or bows. Some gowns are trimmed with wide scarfs that cross m
 the front of the bodice, pass round the
 waist, hang down the back, and then tie on a line with the knees. The sur plice idea seems to have returned in
 slightly different form, for on some
 of, the latest models the material IS caught on each shoulder, crossed at the
 bust. and then brought under the arms
 to point below the waist line in the back, where large knot is made. The
 crossing of the material at the front
 makes V.shaped line, to be filled in by lace for the yoke, and very often the collar is omitted.
 On some gowns, in which the ma
 terial is gathered at the bust into cuirass of embroidery, to appear again below the hips, the sleeves are of three
 quarter length and finished with a plisse of lawn or null A plisse also forms the low collar for the rounded neck. One dress of this type is of
 eerise batiste, with collar and cuffs of
 pleated Chantilly caught together with tiny bows of black velvet. This frock was intended for morning wear.
 For the afternoon there are many charming gowns of lace trimmed with sashes of soft colors and worn with the cape of Henry II hung over one
 shoulder. This style goes with the
 Cavalier hat, that large affair turned up sharly at the left side and trimmed
 with sweeping plume, and, strangely enough. it is also worn with the new turDaD or NttNtt liiAhhiSo "'SN N'A~
 aigrette.
 Notwithstanding the inroads made by
 the moyen age and the panier style, the tanic seems to have lost none of it's popularity. Even some of the street
 dresses of cloth are being worn with tunics of net or mousseline, and one of
 the most striking gowns seen recently was white frock of lingerie type with black tunic of wide mesh net
 This took at once and it may be taken for granted that mousseline will play
 large part in the gowns to come, for it veils the supple, glossy materials and tones them down so that they may be
 more generally used It is even said that the evening coats of the later sea