davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-19
R9EARIYhiS4 dfAERTY 14k
ORYOUNO GIRL ST. s
By TIE
ARE.
GRAND
MOTHER

ually be widened at the center by reg
ular pinchings with the thumb and
forcing getaways, of course, in private
and at all times the corners Of the
lips should be turned upward. While
this treatment will not transform a
wide mouth into the ideal cupid bow,
it's appearance will be vastly improved,
especially If its healthy pink tinge con-
trasts with exquisitely kept teeth. Ex-
ceedingly thick lips should be held
closely but not tightly together, and
II the mouth is also large care must
be taken not to open it widely when
talking. 1t is quite possible to enun-
ciate clearly with the mouth almost
closed. providing that the teeth are
not interlocked.
Even a perfectly shaped mouth can
not look attractive if the lips have the
parched APPEARANCE due to lack of
blood circulation. This fact is fre-
quently noted in the case of quite
young girls and can usually be rem
and by massaging the lips with cold
cream.
Cocoa butter camphor Ice, aseptinol
dies for the clefts caused by wind or
by fever sores, and these raw places
should be promptly healed. as any bit
of flesh not protected by cuticle af-
fords dangerous resting place for the
germs which we have always about us.
"As the mouth is SO reliable an In
dex of the character and disposition,
every girl should cultivate a spirit Of
contentment and charity. These two
qualities are as certain to mold equis-
lite curves about the lips as are envy
and bitterness to coarsen the mouth Of
those who cherish such sentiments"
The April Grandmother smiled affec-
tiouately as she glanced from one to
the other of her audience of three:
"At the risk of being considered a
vainglorious person, / declare myself
perfectly satisfied with the mouth OF
each of my granddaughters, as each
one of them betrays the beauty sculp-
tured by mental repose-that birth
right of every gentlewoman."
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-19

II HE girl who is going to make anX
Christmas gifts for this year will
do we'll to begin very soon. espe-
cially if she is intending to make sew
eral And no matter how attractive
gift that Is bought may be, 1t never has
the personal touch or shows quite the
same loving thought that one does
which has been made by the giver her
self. AS most girls have much of
their time taken up by their studies.
they are not able to do very elaborate
work, and here are a few suggestions
for dainty little trifies which are most
attractive and useful. Each one can
be made more or less elaborate.
A most desirable gift for young girl
to make for her mother or elder sister
is card case, and an especially pretty
one is made of white linen embroidered.
One of its greatest advantages is that
1t can be washed as often as it gets
at all soiled and always looks fresh. 1t
is made of a piece of linen IL inches
long and 51s inches wide. and is folded
over like a book cover. About half an
inch In from each end IS a row of small
scallops to make the edge of the poclx-
cts for cards. Two and a half inches
from these rows the scallops go around
the outside of the case, and on one side
is the design for the embroidered front.
In doing the work embroider first the
front of the case and the edges Of the
pockets, then baste up the pockets and
embroider the scallops around the edge
through the two thicknesses of linen.
The case is then finished except the
lining. which should be of some delicate
shade of silk. The lining is not fast
ened except to the linen, but made just
enough smaller to fit snugly inside. 1t
is taken out whenever the linen Is
washed and can be renewed at any
time with very little trouble.
Another pretty card case. which has
the added advantage of carrying safely
little money. has small purse on
the inner side of one side. This case
is started by cutting a piece of strong
canvas seven inches by five. The can
vas is covered on the outside with bro
cade silk or figured velvet and on the
inside with thin silk or satin. Across
one side is a pocket of the lining silk
for cards, and on the other side, in
stead of a pocket, two pieces of the
silk are sewed to the case just In the
middle, where 1t folds over. and they
are sewed to the edges for one inch.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-19

Grandmother. a few of them adopt
Miss Budde's childish, innocent pose,
and a great number go to the other
extreme and press the lips so tightly to-
gether that they form a thin, straight
line across the lower portion of the
face. The natural manner of holding
the mouth is to allow the lips barely
to touch. This prevents the teeth
from being always in evidence, and
lends a pleasant expression to the
countenance.
Because a girl realizes that her
mouth is not pretty is not a good rea-
son for being discouraged. for much
may be done for the Improvement Of
that prominent feature. II the lips are
very thin and dropping they may grad
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-19

up the case. For the girl who does
not paint the cardboard can be COW
cred with some fancy ribbon or with
white linen embroidered In colored
silks
For keeping ones wells in order
nothing Is so useful as a veil roll. and
one or more OF them will make a most
acceptable Christmas gift. They are
also very easy to make Each one
takes five-eighths of a yard OF ribbon
six or six and half inches wide. the
pompadour ribbon being the prettiest
for the purpose. The seIvages Of the
ribbon are overhanded together. max
ing long tube. This is stuffed verv
tight with rolled up cotton batting
leaving about two inches at each end
unstuned. At each end Of the cotton
batting narrow ribbon Is tied very
tightly In a hard knot and then In a
bow. The ends OF the roll are fringed
out for about half an inch.
The girl who wishes to make soms-
thing for her grandmother will And
Just what she wants in a knitting bag
that spreads out like an apron-that is
If her grandmother happens to be fond
or knitting or embroidering. for the
bag can also be used to hold a large
piece OF embroidery. 1t Is made OF a
piece OF Powered India silk. 80 inches
square, lined with thin white silk. The
two pieces OF silk are stitched together
around the edges. with the right side
OF the silk inside
One little place must be left un-
stitched. and through this opening II is
turned inside out (like a sofa pillow
cover) and then the opening is sewed
carefully on the right side A circle
Is marked with a basting thread, so
large that ii reaches to an inch from
the edge in the middle OF the side, but
leaves long point at the corners. On
the line Of this circle the outside and
lining are stitched together and again
three-quarters of an inch inside. Be-
tween the stitchings are run two draw
Ing strings OF half inch ribbon. and
these ribbons must each be three yards
long. so that the bag can be pulled out
perfectly nat and laid on the knitter's
lap to protect a piece OF delicate work
from a dark dress. In the middle of
two opposite sides is made little slit
in the outer silk for the ribbons to
come through. and this is closely but
tonholed- The ends OF each ribbon are
tied together in bow.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-19
Protectors for Hat Pins

nRoTECToRS for hat pins are very
/ useful, not only to prevent the hat
: pins sharp point from hurting
some one, but also because the hat pin
Is certain not to be lost out of the
hat. and also, the pin being held firmly
In place itself. fastens the hat much
better than when no protector Is used.
The protector is metal cap which fits
on the end of the hat pins point after
1t has been thrust through the hat.
The protector is especially good to keep
on hats which are worn on strenuous
occasions, such as motoring or riding.
The protector is a London invention
and has become very popular in short
time.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-19

textile in the usual way. That is. pin
the design down over the fabric to a
deal table or drawing board. with a
section of blotting paper between
Then. with oil colors. thlnned with
turpentine, to which is added a bit
OF gum arabic to hold the color to-
gether. apply to the design with
small fat brush. Either one or several
colors can be used Then darn the de-
sign in precisely the same fashion
you would if the color had not been
used
Either darn with the same or con-
trasting shade of silk and the effect
will be most charming. If, for exam
pie. the background of the design be
blue green and bright green is used
in the darning, it gives an almost iri-
descent effect which is altogether
charming.
Darning may also be applied to tha
cut work which is so much used now,
though. as a matter OF fact. to the
minds of artistic folk it seems rather
a shame to spoil such a really fine bit
OF needlecraft. for. TO my mind it
does not add TO its beauty.
To do the cut work is not difficult
needle worker to know the process.
For bed covers and table spreads 1T is
very handsome. and is most effective
used for a table scarf. There is al
ways an overlay or an underlay of
another material in cut work. Some
times it is laid on top the fabric OF
which the article is made and again
is underneath. In one case the over
lay is cut out and the pattern couched
down in outline stitch or the body OF
the textile is cut to show the under
lay through. COUGHING In this case
is simply an outline stitch done with
heavy silk or linen.
Nowadays a thing must have artistic
value for 1t to be sanctioned in the
home. for the time OF useless fancy
work is gone by. Fortunately there is
a marked revival of all the old handi-
crafts and needIecrafts which in the
early days of European history were
carried to such heights or exquisite
workmanship. 1t is not possible for
an amateur to reach such a point Of
excellence IN one bound. but she can
always aim to do something really
good of it's kind. There is surely no
broader field for the exercise of artistic
taste and skill with the needle than
in the line Of this sort Of darning.
Given the hand woven linens. a hand
full of good colors for working and an
artistic eye and even the simplest pat
tern is bound to bear the stamp OF orig
inality and beauty. In fact, the novice
in needlework will be amazed herself
at her progress IL she only gets started
on the right track and refuses to yield
herself to the cOmmonp1ace and tavvdrx
Backed by artistic textiles, soft dull
silks and good designs she Is capable
of reaching an exclusive field in which,
did she care to exploit her work, she
could reap commercially a big harvest.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-19

IT isn't TO be wondered at that girls
with q fondness for needlecraft have
gone quite mad over darning this
winter; not by any means the
homeIy occupation of the housewife,
though the stitch is the same, but
the decoration OF bits of fancy work
for the home No style of needlecraft
seems to fit and harmonic so well as
darning with the general scheme of
decoration in vogue today as expressed
IN the use Of mission and colonial furni-
ture, except may be it is stenciling,
with which. by the way, It is very
often combined.
It is not only remarkably effective
work, but it is inexpensive and not at
all difficult The main idea is to get
the artistic effect. the stitch itself be-
ing Of secondary instead of primal i'm
portance, as in most other forms of
embroidery.
This, it will be seen, lends an individ-
uality to the work and gives the girl
OF originality scope to work out any
number of artistic patterns once she
has imbibed the method of operation.
Darning is particularly suitable and
is utilized for an endless variety of
draperies and house furnishings, and
some Of the most artistic homes and
~
their prettiness TO work Of this sort.
There is no doubt at all that the charm
Of Italian hand woven linens and Rus
sian crashes imported direct from the
old country has quite as much to do
with the decorative value of this work
as the darning itself. Either one is
effective in itself; together the artistic
effect is beyond question.
This work is particularly adapted
for table runners, dvan cushions.
bureau scarfs. sash and window cur
tains. table cloths and frequently for
portieres and divan covers. One bed
cover recently seen. made after the
English fashion. the sides and feet
reaching the floor. the pillows rolled
underneath the top. was done in two
shades of blue and wood browns. which
harmonized perfectly with the cool
gray tones of the homespun linen and
the gray blue walls and ceiling.
Two methods are in vogue for do
ing this needlecraft; sometimes it is
the background that is darned,
leaving the pattern in broad relief to
be further emphasized by heavy out
lining in black. Again the pattern
itself is treated in a mass and the
background is left plain. One is as
effective as the other. though in the
latter instance variety is obtained by
the direction given the darning. the
stitch following the axis Of the leaf or
petal.
IN assisting the novice who wishes
to become expert in this style of en-
broidery nothing can be more helpful
than the oft repeated words of one of
the best teachers in the city. who says:
Make neither the stitch nor the de-
sign the principal thing. Look upon
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-19

outline stitch. Black is perhaps more
often employed for this purpose than
any other, as 1T gives special char
acter to the work: A darker shade
than that used for the darning is eff
fective also A little experience will
suffice to show the, worker that darn
ing does not require any great in
genuity or SKILL only a little bit of
experience to get the proper effects.
In many cases. such as table run
ners, scarfs and hangings, the hem is
masked by outline stitch. Not In
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-19

<ktAISS ROSAMoND BUDDE should
M be told to keep her mouth
closed" observed the April
Grandmother. Il do not mean to imply
that she talks too much" she hastily
explained. noting the amazed express
sion upon the faces Of her three grand
daughters. but that by habitually hold
ing her lips widely apart she gives
strangers the impression that she is
half witted instead Of being merely a
vain little girl who evidently believes
that her perfectly shaped mouth looks
most attractive when agape.
Many girls spoil the expression of
their mouths simply because they hold
their lips wrongly" continued the April
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-19


ecru are the colors employed in work
Ing the leaves Of the conventionalized
flower. the scraggy stems done in wis
taria brown. Just a few simple rows
OF outlining embodying the same col
ors mark the stitching Of the hem This
Is at once simple and exceedingly ef-
fective.
q TILL another variation In darning
seen In No. 4-is obtained on
- very coarsely woven material. such
as arras cloth or even burlap, in which
a simple conventionalized motif is in
closed with darning instead OF outlin-
ing. The pattern is stamped and is
then surrounded by frame of darn
ing about quarter OF an inch In
width. similar border incloses the
whole design, with perhaps an outlin-
ing of black picked out with tiny dark
squares. This design is especially
adapted for divan pillow.
A stunning pillow (No. 81 is worked
on very heavy raw silk of even weave
The darning. which is horizontal, forms
two borders the length of the oblong
cushion, done in an Indian design, sim
liar to those seen on Navajo blankets.
To further vary the style-shown in
No. 6-the entire background of the
cushion is darned coarsely, leaving the
main outlines Of the design open, the
inclosed detail being further individ-
ualized by changing the direction OF
the darning.
One has only to look through the
shops to note the popularity OF the
handbags or chatelaines. and no sort
OF needlecraft offers such opportunity
for the lover OF bags as this. A bit
of raw silk. crash or linen can be
worked quite solid with the darning,
and. with the edge and top finished
with gold cord. makes most charming
gift, one of the sort that can not be
bought in the stores.
1t is possible to strengthen the color
effect in this work by utilizing stencil
ing in connection. For instance, II
you happen to have a pretty stencil
design you wish to use, apply 1t to the
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-19
a PAGE
S-
NJ | & 8 E .
No TABLE Scarf Showing Background Darned and
Pattern in Relief

the whole as a painting. Think Of
ground and work to get the same eff
feet an artist would
It is surprising how this idea. once
firmly fixed in the mind. will help
student of needlecraft. The idea is to
select both the stitch and design that
will best harmonic with the material.
Another point to be considered is the
detail of finishing, for, as the saying
is, a poor frame spoils a good picture
To get originality in your designs
select them from the best sources and
adapt them to the needs of the articl,
you are making. 1t gives a good feel
ing for art to do this and it is quite
as easy to translate a wall paper de-
sign to a table scarf or motif fror
a Turkish rug to a sash curtain as to
get some stereotyped design from an
art store and translate it with impress
sion paper.
If this seems too ambitious at the
start select really good motif from
India silk. a japanese print or Per-
sian rug and with Japanese rice paper
trace the design. With impression pa
per apply this motif either in the form
of border or an allover pattern to
the textile. then proceed to work it. It
might be suggested that to lay down
a rule across the border to get the
space will help, and then by the aid
of pins divide the end into as many
divisions as there are to be motifs
Now, for example. take the design
of grapes, grape leaves and birds
shown on the table scarf (No. - Such
a one is easily found and is most ef-
fective when worked. In this case
happy combination of methods is en-
ployed, the background and certain of
the leaves being darned, the pattern
outlined with black.
For this scarf buy two yards of Rus
sian crash for about 16 cents a yard
This usually comes about is or 20
inches wide. In its natural state it is
The delicate tint of this linen invari-
ably suits itself to its surroundings,
bringing them into harmony with any
color scheme. The stuff wears like
iron and is pleasant to work on.
The San Francisco call., 1909-12-19

~ ARTICULAR attention should be
paid TO the hem. for if too wide
for the design 1t will overpower it,
and vice versa One should balance
the other. Next decide on the treat
ment. If the background alone is to
be darned. start in with that, using
Persian floss both for the outlining
as well as the background. Weave
the floss in and out between each thread
until the entire background is COW
cred. Frequently the effect is varied
by changing the direction of the
stitch, as mentioned before. For ex-
ample, if the background, as is gen
orally the case, is darned straight
across the material, then the leaves or
petals of the flowers will be darned
perpendicularly, or they will follow the
axis of the leaf or flower
This produces a most surprising va
riation in the effect. Next the pattern
is outlined in what is known as the
The Bennington evening banner. (Bennington, Vt.) 19??-1961, 1909-12-15
A Primary Election Law

A primary election law is a law
which provides means whereby
every voter of each party may have
| his choice recorded as to who shall
be his party's candidate for public of
flee.
The primary election idea is grow
ing Already twenty-six states have
adopted it in some form, and in not
one has it proved a failure. That the
| opportunity to have voice in public
affairs free from the dictation of poll
ticians is appreciated by the people
is evidenced by the fact that at a re
cent New Jersey primary election in
the most populous subdivision of the
state, eighty per cent of the enrolled
voters voted at the primary and that
at the primaries in Kansas fully sew
enty per cent of the voters of sparse
~ populated areas exercised then
right.
The only true election system is
one which brings home to the people
the opportunity of selecting their pub.
lie servants. Its accomplishment
means a government of and by the
people such as was contemplated
when our constitution was adopted.
We are not under such a system at
the present time Our caucus system
is an arrangement whereby few pol
iticians name our candidates in ad-
vance, the party in convention ratify
that choice and the voters at election
time led by partisan appeal, confirm
that choice The caucus makes a
boosted government of and by the
people really a government of and by
the politicians.
Vermont of all states needs pri-
mary election law. our real election
of state officials is at caucus and con
vention time. We should adopt
system hch will give the voters of
each party a full voice at the time
when the selection of officials is real
ly made, and discard a system which
in effect makes the republican voters
of this state the willing tools of poll
ticians and perpetuates that condition
by lulling them into quietude in let
ting them play at selecting their pub
lie officers at election time Let us
discard an unjust system. Let us
put in its stead a system which will
place every voter upon the same bas-
is. Let us do away with a custom
which permits a condition disgusting
to all fair minded citizens.
That there is a real demand for the
enactment of such a law in this state
seems to have been overlooked by
some of the state papers Two years
ago the state grange made it one of
its principal recommendation to the
state egislaure. That the same rec
will be made to the
next legislature is assured The de
mand of sixteen thousand people of
the state cannot be ignored or treat
ed lightly Wilmington Times.
The Bennington evening banner. (Bennington, Vt.) 19??-1961, 1909-12-15
DRIVEN OUT BY DEER
Caribou Once PlentifuIin Maine Have
All Gone

Bangor, Me-, Dec. 13="There amt
a single caribou left in the whole
state of Maine" says Game Warden
Cy Adams. Il have seen great
many deer and moose but no caribou
because there weren't none there.
guess they've got the Canada fever
and the herds | used to see around
here are now in New Brunswick or
Quebec. They ere heading further
north, for caribou won't stand civil
cation like deer and they won't live
in pairs here and there like moose.
Its the deer that are driving them
away. There are more deer in Maine
today than there used to be in the
time of the Indians. Then the wild
animals were just in the right pro-
portion and didn't butt in on each
others rights She natural food of
the caribou is moss. Moose live on
the large branches of trees princip-
ally and deer chew small twigs and
branches, grass and such like.
Now deer have grown so plentiful
that they don't find enough of their
own kind of food, so they eat the
moss on the trunks of trees on which
caribou used to feed Consequently
the caribou got hungry and Disguised
and quit That's why moose and car
ibou or moose and deer get on all
right in the same territory, but carl
bou and deer don't get along any bet
ter together than cattle and sheep
out West and for the same reason
There's other reasons why caribou
have left this state, wnere they used
TO be so plentiful. Caribou are shy
animals to begin with. They won't
hang around where there's numbering
going on, and there's hardly a corner
of the state where the woods are not
full of lumbtrmen
Then they have a fool trick of go
ing together in herds and standing
still to be shot if the leader of the
herd is killed. You can plug them,
one after the other, if you get the
leader down first, and pot hunters
and head hunters have often cleaned
out good herds in this way. Buffalo
used to do the same thing and see
where il landed them II pays TO be
Independent even for animals.
"The caribou has all kinds of pretty
names as a game animal, and he de-
serves them all He is ten times
more graceful and handsomer than a
deer and it is a beauty and the beast
when you come to mention him and
the moose. It's a shame to lose him,
but as long as he refuses to learn new
tricks like the deer, he's got to suf-
for