davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03

a robe du mutt. and almost invariably
there are flounces at the foot to break
the plain lines.
However skirts may be, sleeves con-
tinue uncompromisingly long and tight,
are as graceful with summary white
even on thinnest frocks, and one cannot
admit that these long ,close-fitting sleeves
dresses as the gay little elbow affairs
of year ago But everybody is falling
obediently into line. and the woman who
independently decides that she for one
will not submit to the discomfort of long
sleeves will find that 1t takes a dea! OF
assurance TO go with her forearm barred
when all others are discreetly covered.
In case the weather vane should swing
round-at least as far Is three-q Iarter
sleeves. which some wiseacres are whis-
pering will be worn with midsummer
the wise home dressmaker will fashion
the sleeves of her lingerie frocks so that
1t will be possible to shorten them bit
without destroying their good lines.
Whether sleeves are long or are al
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03

in jewelry. and is being made up into
wreaths and tiaras and into combs, pend
ants. necklets and ouairtly designed
bangles and rings. Quaintness and I'M
usual and bizarre effects are being eagerly
sought by the modish women in Europe.
and this feature is quite as important to
the extremely wealthy woman of fashion
a the actual value of the jewels and
metal used in manufacturing her orna-
mentS.
The large all-round wreaths for evening
wear in the hair have almost disappeared.
They were heavy and cumbersome.
long and very slender wreath of beaten
silver leaves holding a great pearl over
the right temple may be worn with
silver pendant to match.
Dainty enamel lace pins are pretty for
day wear. AMI there ar handsome and
fetching corslet brooches with the
Egyptian scarabs or sacred beetles of
the ancient Pharaohs incased in heavy
beaten silver. Canoes are worn much
set into beaten silver. In fact. milady
now wears no amount of jewelry which
d few years back would have been con-
sidered as barbaric taste and fit only for
Turkish or Hindoo princess to wear al
a coronation function.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03
A Low HaiF,-
-d1aessinSwith Side Parting

lige or abroad in the breeze after the
sea bath. or arranged in careless and
unstudfed knot. The woman with thin
locks may never toss them. She may
achieve an effect of unstudied careless
ness, but 1T Will he with infinite pains
and an adequate hand glass.
How to arrive at this effect of plente-
BUSINESS is the thing-and many a dollar
has gone to swell the coiffeur's Golfers in
the ardent pursuit of beautiful hair. 1t
is surprising how often neglected hair
may be made by little effort to grow
and thrive, and to take on new luster
and color. The hair really responds very
readily to treatment. but most women are
not willing to give the time and atten-
ton necessary. Hence the professional
hairdresser who charges high prices for
his simple remedies makes goodly sum.
In too many instances the hair is not
given fair chance. Day after day it
is drawn over unwholesome cushions. very
likely saturated with perspiration and oil
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03

swiss.s. and the more or less elaborate
lingerie frocks-qute early in the season.
leaving May free for the more important
street costumes of silk or linen. which
should be left until styles are thoroughly
established.
There is no reason why the dainty thin
dresses for midsummer afternoon, and
evening wear should not be fashioned in
April. General style lines are settled by
then: 1t has been decided what sleeves
will be. what sort of skirts will be in
vogue. and one has had plenty Of time
: 20 select from the wide choice of sum-
merry fabrics displayed in the shops
Frocks for Easter Week.
For the younger society girls many
charming froeks intended for midsummer
wear are ordered to be ready in April
for the Easter week dances and the gay
weekend house parties. The conventional
jeune file white dress is not referred
to in this connection: but marvellous
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03

from the hair. and at night 1t is relieved
of its rat" only to be sunk into a warm
pillow. 1t is covered from the sunlight
by big hats. often of unventilated fur.
and seldom does the life-giving sun or air
get at It, A thorough airing and brush
ing at bedtime, strong sun bath once a
week. different arrangement on alter
nate days. and the gentle stimulation Of
good hair tonic. such as may be pur-
chased for half dollar at any toilet
goods store. will often make the hair
respond surprisingly in vigor and beauty.
With the approach OF warm summer
weather. it is wise woman who adopts
simple and easily arranged hairdress-
Ing, one not calling for constant atten-
ton with the waving iron. Wisps of
dank hair that should be curly are any,
thing but lovely under coquettish picture
hats, and a. well kept. we'll arranged
couture sans curls and kinks of any sort
Is always neat and attractive, providing,
always. that the couture presents the
aforementioned plenteous appearance.
The unwholesome rat" or cushion. has
been abandoned by the better class of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03
April the Time to Make Up Thin Dress
A Stunning Lingerie Model From P arts.
One Piece Effects Prevail A
Lingerie Bridesmaid Frock.

lingerie conceptions infinitely more beau
tiful than any ordinary white dress ever
thought of being. and often hailing from
the hands of a Paris dress wizard.
A lovely frock of this description is
shown today. and though this costume
was carelessly spoken of by its famous
creator as "a simple little lingerie af-
fair it is made of materials never before
combined in white dress for summer
time-net and machine-made embroidery.
The picture gives a better description of
this exquisite frock than any written
words could convey. AS will be seen. a
deep ungathered founce Of eyelet EN-
briodery is applied to a skirt of tucked
white net. embroidery and net being
joined by lace insertion and frill. En-
broidery forms the little fitted bodice and
under this net guimpe with long sleeves.
This frock is built over satin of such a
pale blue tint that only occasional CLEANS
of the blue are seen through the white
net. and the sash or girdle. arranged over
the bodice. is a SO of this pale blue satin.
The Long Sleeve Inevitable.
Three things about this Partisan frock
are instantly noticeable to the trained
eye-the much lower waist line. which is
gradually coming back in Paris, although
empire effects will hold their own through
the summer here; the long, close sleeve
and the fuller skirt.
II was almost inevitable that with the
coming of diaphanous fabrics We should
see more width in skirts. The lingerie
frock built on the scabbard lines of the
winter, could not be lovely thing. espe-
cially If ii had the tight. long sleeve now
in vogue. But nobody is so foolish as TO
make these thin frocks with skirts like
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03
The Puritan Collar.

The high stiff linen collar has had its
day. and with summer shirt waists will be
worn soft stocks or the cool, pretty
tIlrned-down collars in Dutch or Puritan
style. These collars are very easy to
make. and as the distinction of hand
made neckwear is always recognized. "A
supply of turned-down collars should be
made up at home. Fine linen lawn Is the
proper material TO use. and the collar
may be worked with heavy white dots.
dainty scailoping finishing the edge, or 1t
may he trimmed with cluny or torchon
lace. Sometimes there is merely narrow
lace edge, with a little embroidered pat
tern above. Other pretty collars show an
edge of the lace. with a narrow insertion
running around an inch above.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03
Individual Car Strap.

II women have to stand In the cars
there is no reason now why they should
pull their bodices out of shape reaching
up to the straps designed for men, or of
soiling their gloves clutching soiled and
germ-laden leather car straps Some
woman has invented little individual
strap provided with a hook which may be
caught into the regular car strap Ones
own strap may be carried in one's hand
bag or coat pocket. and 1t will be the
matter of an instant to adjust it or de-
tach Ii i'm the car.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03

Yrs have been
packed away, the
last winter word
has been spoken
and summer raj
ment is the femi-
nine topic of the
moment.
1t is always best
to make up the
re a ! Y summary
things-the dimi-
ties, lawns and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03

caught with a ribbon. or as If the plen-
teous masses were held by big, artfully
placed pins.
These two words. "plenteous masses"
however must not be overlooked. They
express a consideration OF vital impor-
tance. Only luxuriantly abundant tresses
ever look presentable when tossed any
where-either over the shoulders, en- neg
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03

lowed to shrink to a kindly three-quarter
length. long white delicately colored
silk gloves will be pulled up over the arm
with al lingerie frocks worn out or
doors. The silk gloves this year show
wonderfully dainty embroideres on the
wrists, and they make a very charming
addition 10 dressy white frocks.
The Luxurious Handmade Frock.
Nothing. of course. is SO distinguished
as the white dress made entirely by hand.
and the woman who can afford the time
can have frock which would cost. if
the model We're brought from Paris, sew
eral hundred dollars at least. The hand
soonest of the handmade French frocks
are really very simple in design, their
chlef distinction lying in the infinitely
beautiful stitchery and in the skill full cut
which gives ciinging lines with no sug-
gestion of tightness.
Such frock is also illustrated today
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03

O matter how care
fully the hair is ar
ranged. it must not
look so. No matter
how many hours
you spend massag-
ing, shampooing,
waving rebellious
locks, they must
look TO the unin-
formed beholder as
though tossed up
carelessly a n d
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03
The "WidoW'S Collar"

The dainty snow-white bands Of fne
lawn or organdie which finish neck and
wrists are one of the touches that make
mourning frocks distinguished. The or
candle bands are not hemmed, but are
made of straight strips of the fabric
turned and creased with the finger into
wide unsewed hens at both edges.
These make-believe hens keep their posi-
ton as long as the accessories are worn
which will be but once-fresh bands be-
ing basted to the frock each time ii is
donned. A maker of very smart mourn
ling is now showing these lite wrist
bands Of finest linen lawn. matched by a
very narrow turnover collar of the Dutch
sort. Collar and wrist bands are nemnled
by hand with almost invisible stitches
and at the front CT the collar goes a
tiny bow of stiff Brussels net or of Grape.
bal bone must the victim sit with the
bands tied about her Uranium. Sometimes
ii takes an hour. sometimes two. accord
ing to the heaviness of the hair and the
condition OF the atmosphere. Partisan
coiff provide huge hoods or calash
bonnets with dropping wells, in which
one may drive home to complete the
drying process in ones boudoir: but here
one spends the interim in DURANGO vile
in the ha-rdre Sser'S little ',parlor."
The Billie Burke hairdressing shown
in the ether photograph. is a pretty style
for young face. but for women of ma
turer years more formal couture is rec
commended. The gay Billie Burke hair
dressing also. is only suited to curly
tresses. The fluffy hair is drawn lightly
up and back. and is held around the
crown of the head by a ribbon filet
Within the circle of this ribbon band the
ends of the hair are allowed 10 frolic in
a merry mass of little curls. and il curl
escapes now and then from its combining
hairpin, why, SO much the prettier.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03

will escape the ground by several inches.
especially when intended for wear out of
doors.
Lingerie Dresses in One Piece.
The old-fashioned girl with iounced
skirt and full bebe bodice joined under
sash about the waist is no more. Now all
the summer dresses are carefully fitted to
the figure and are made in one piece.
with straight trimmings from bust to
knee, or If the dress is cut in two parts,
skirt and bodice, they are sewed together
under a band of insertion, the lengthWiSe
panel trimmings helping to give a one
piece effect. These fitted one-piece lin
gerie frocks are the laundress' bette noir.
and usually they must be sent to clean
er If the right shaping is to be preserved.
When sashes are worn at al! they are
placed high up around the figure to sug-
gest empire lneS-that Is on all the
American-made white frocks. AS has been
said in another column. Paris costumes
begin to assume the lowered waist line.
and the two imported models shown in
today's photographs hint ut this very
clearly
1t is prophesied by another summer
we shall all be wearing frilled and
founced petticoats, yards wide around
the feet. and that, by the same token.
to-around the 20-inch mark. However
there is no sign of this metamorphoss
now, skirts of all the thin frocks falling
quite straight and the curve of the hips
is emphasized as little as possible.
Collarless Effects the Fad.
About twenty years ago there was
fancy for coilarless frocks. Round and
Dutch necks were seen everywhere. not
only on bodices of sheer materials, but on
more formal frocks of silk and like ma
terials. Now, once again comes the col
arless fad. and it bids fair to Guido any
thing of the kind that ever went before.
In fact, the lengths, or rather the depths
to which the new style is already being
carried bid fair to be it's own oundong
which is pity, fer the summer frock of
lingerie material and cut out at the top
TO show pretty throat is really most
charming.
The dotted swiss dress is always a sat
isfactoIy choice for summer wear for
this fabric. If purchased in a good quail
ity. wears we'll and launders beautifully.
with the very fine and sheer embroidery
insertions. and also-a decided innovation
with panels of net braided with white
soutache. The prettiest way to use the
dotted nets, however. Is in the form of
ruff1es and f1ounces. and now that the
ruffle is in such disfavor the over Of
dotted swiss will do better to set her af-
lection on fine lawn or batiste with en-
broidery trimming.
Simple Lingerie Styles.
Women who are planning to spend the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03
Keeping Fruit Cool.

In summertime fruit should be served
tempt:ngly cool. though. of course. It
must never be laid directly on the ice.
A dainty housekeeper who owns two cut
glass bowls, one slightly larger than the
other. serves her breakfast fruit on sum-
mer mornings in most delightful fashion.
The smaller bowl which holds the
peaches. plums or other fruit is set with
in the larger receptacle and the space
between is packed with finely chopped
ice. Thus. no matter how late members
of the family CT guests may come down
to breakfast. the first course is always
deliciously chilled and ready. Grapes
should always be dipped in ice water be-
fore being served.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03

The new Napoleonic collar is high with
the military turnover of the period. and
is cut away in front to show tall stock,
from which falls a jabot Of pleated and
lace edged lawn.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03

For this wave the hair is first wet
thoroughly with perfumed water and
some secret concoction of monsieur, the
hairdresser. who dampens each lock from
scalp to tip until the hair, without being
slimily wet. is just damp enough to suit
him. A narrow band is then placed
around the head close to the forehead and
ears, the hair is pushed forward in a
loose puff against this band, and another
band is tied farther back. Then another
pun another band, and SO on. Now the
process Is a third completed. Until every
tendril of the hair is dry as the proven
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-03

women now. the hair being kept fluffy
and supple enough to hold its place in a
moderate pompadour by constant sham
pooling and brushing. Thu exaggerated
the hair Is worn, drawn back from the
face rather than parted-a more modish
fashion just now-its arrangement tends
to snow the contour of beauti Ill head
rather than to present an appearance ex-
actly like every other head.
The low couture will prevail this sum-
mer for daytime wear. though higher ar
rangements of the hair will be seen In
the evening. All the new spring hats are
shaped to fit down over the low couture.
and with these hairdressings. low at the
meek parting over the brow and loose
coming into such popularity. women
promise to be exceedingly picturesque and
artistic in app earance. even If something
Of trimness and smartness is sacrificed.
The Madonna style of couture. with
neck parting over the brow and loose
waves drawn back into a knot at the
nape Of the neck. is becoming to some
women-in fact. to all pretty women.
There are faces. however, which cannot
stand this severe test of sweet simplicity.
The side parting is a bit more coquet
fish than the demure Madonna STYLE, and
in Paris this side parting is just now very
popular A beauti ully arranged couture
showing the SIDE parting is pictured to-
day. This hardressing gives the effect
of great luxuriance of tresses. while.
a matter of fact the hair is not at all
heavy. 1t has been made the most of
and is puffed out behind the ears in big
waves that suggest haaviness, the ends
being gathered into knot at the back
under a cluster of graceful puffs. A
strong pin of pearl-studded shell holds
the mass of hair from slipping down on
the neck
This hairdressing owes its careless
grace OF arrangement to the loose water
wave with which it has been dressed.
The water wave is as much smarter than
the stiff and studied marcel wave as the
marcel in turn Is smarter than old-fash-
Toned "crimps. The woman desiring a
water-waved couture must be prepared
to spend several hours achieving it, and
will be wise to carry an interesting book
with her to the hairdressers.
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1909-08-07
SOCI4AAL, AND
PERSONAL.

n N| l u. T.
Mrs. Claud Williams gave luncheon
yesterday for Mrs. Robert Fowler of
New y ork and Miss Emma Quigley OF
Illinois. bird ge& followed the luncheon.
The guests We're seated at small tables
each decorated with crystal basket
titled With swset peas. In the bridge
contest prizes We're won by Miss Daisy
Savage, Miss Margaret gibbons. Mrs.
Charles c. Grismon, Mrs. w. d. Foster,
IA iss Thoniaa OF New York and the
5two& guests of honor.
+ Mrs. Albert o, Seaman of Fort Doug
LAS MAS hostess at a morning bridge
party yesterday the decorations being
lin yellow sEnflowers, and bridge fol-
lowing. Four abies were played, the
prizes going to Mrs. Hugh WalthalI
tflna Mrs. Bucker. Other guests We're
z Mrs. Richard Rifenberick and het.
mother, Mrs. II. p. Rifenberick Mrs.
b John Ward and her sister, Mrs. High
land. Mrs. Byran Conrad, Mrs A.
E CaTenaugh, Mrs. James NJ. Arrasmitll,
Mrs. Keeland S. Snow and her mother,
Mrs. Tower. Mrs. Willie Uline,a Mrs.
John s. Upsam. Mrs. Edwin Butcher
Miss Storm and Miss Ethel Mount.
~ Mrs. F. w. Jones entertained at
childIen's party yesterday for her
little son Harold. the decorations be-
ing the national colors, with the ten
II4tab bic done in steamers or red rib
bon ana birthday cake with five
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1909-08-07
81 ,sR II, BRIEFS.

State Warden Chambers and DsPl y
( Brig Madsent were here this week a. a.
their way to Panguitch where they M w
prepare for the erection of q III
hatchery II hey! visited the llatcne ~.
here and were pleased with Inc pt 1,is
4ress shown here with the spawn rece en-
placed here. They think the hatchssi
at Panguitch may be fashioned al l leE y.
The Saltna choir has been asked ., y
i furnish the music for the stake contt's'5
once in September.
Enoch Jorgensen Is visiting wv wv
county attorney ] Ohm Jorgensens anu .s,i
cidcntly doing work for the Dese.s'i
{ News
Treasurer Williams of Emery cou ,.s.
was here recently looking overt e ~, "a
TEN of accounts in vogue in this aa a.s,
other countries with view TO I'm p. lsry
ing the system now In use In filiet
county 5gs n 81.
Another refreshing rain visited hiefI
field and vicinity yesterday.
a marriage license has recently 2 ee y.
issued to Ernest Christensen o.
mond and Eva Murphy Of saiiraa-
n. a. Broadhurst Of the bureau n
animal industry OF he VIZ II
town this week. He is on q toa si..,s
inspection Of the sheep herds 49,
county.
Floating mt saitalr-tte real nun
Z Z
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1909-08-07
SCnENTIlST.
SaItair .sLcviat han, Restaura mt.
The best meals a city prices. Ask
for anything !. Orchestra every evening.
3LEHI SAGE BRUSH
GRUBBER IA SUCCESS
Especial Co.respondence

IEHI. Aug. 6. THE sagebrush grub
Der. recently built at the sugar fac
tory for Messrs.5 Stookey and Holbrook,
I has been given q tryout on dry farm.
( land west Of Lehi and has proven most
successful. It Is drawn by a 20 horse
power engine They are contracting to
sclear large acreage this fall. The
Sgrubber cuts the brush off about four.
inches underground ard gathers the
brush in rows.
The Second and Fourth wards will.
hold quarterly conference Sunday after
noon.
The Primary association members of
the Second ward will be given an Ice
cream party and dance in the City pa
8vilion Tuesday afternoon next.
Births during tile week are reported
as follows To M RS Jnnius Banks. a
son: to Mrs Eva K. Hanson. d daugh-
ter; to Mrs. Horace Maxim. a son; TO
Mrs. John =. Ewes. a daughter; to Mrs.
Abe Powell, a daughter.
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1909-08-07

signed his position on account of dis
criminattonin favor of tile army musi-;
against the local union musicians Of
Spokane. II
Ems IL day Thursday the wires; were
busy between r. Issinger, II, w. King,
president OF the Choral society, tho
Spokane Chronicle and myself trying
to make some ARRANGEMENTS and they
made me avery fiattering offer.
But could not accept the leader
ship when 1T displaced q most reflIlal
and excellent ieader-ir,Y friend Red
5clshsrger-evcn though 1t We're TO colt
| duct a work il, which 1 am. naturally.
much Interested
II finally decided would so for Mon
days opening session OF the congress
if the congress would furnish me with a
union orchestra OF 80 men This they
refused to do and also quit. I sin
cerely hope that the trouble may be
rishted. forstlic Spokane Choral society
and It's director are among the most
worthy musical people in the west" sf{
4