Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1909-07-08
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COSTUMES FOR. SUMMER SPORT

should occupy on the waist-lininE
While It involves a little more trouble,
It Is rather more accurate, particularly
for the dresSmaker without great ex
perience. Even an experienced dress
maker will prefer to be extra cautious
when she first attempts a new style thar
has some novel points Of construction
1t is a simple matter to cut a girdle,
using the provided pattern and odd
scraps of cambria lining. Cut this care
fully mark the perforatonS, haste the
seams and TT the girdle 0Vfy the waist
lining, with the waiSt-line perforations
OF the gIrdie directly at the natural
walst-lne OF the figure
transfer these pertOTatiOns, and thoes
for the high waist-line to the fitted
waist-lining by pinnng through both
Innings at each set of perforatious, then
turning over the edge of the girdle and
making a continuous line Of basting-
stitches on the waiSt-Ening using the
folded edge of the girile as a guide
he glrdIe has now served its purpose
and may be removed, but kept with
the pattern for future use A we'll
fitted gIrdle support may be put to sew
Draptng the Skirt
The skirt is now to be draped to the
walst-lining, pinnlng its upper edge to
the line indicated for it on the lining.
The skirt may be fitted, at the normal
waiSt-hne, as closely to the figure A.
desired, making of the completed gown
a princess or Directoire model, as either
one or the other may be more becom-
ing. With waists of the bolero type,
the waist portion usually overlaps the
top OF the skirt, even when the latter
is finished with a girdle in either crush
or plain strap form.
When . waist in regulation waist
length Is adopted with the skirt into q
one-piece costume, II should be draped
on the lining before the skirt, and the
excess material, below the traced high
waist-line, cut away. A high-cut skirt,
mounted on its supporting girdle, may
be worn as separate skirt over al
most any regulation-length waist, bat
such an arrangement will result in sew
eral unnecessary layers of material
about the waist and is hardly desirable
tor even a slender figure.
The glrdleSupported skirt is. how
ever, particularly we'll adapted for wear
with an unlined lingerie or silk waist
The necessity for an extra belt or girdls
IS avoided, and there is no danger OF
the unslghtly separation at the back be-
tween skirt-belt and outside belt. The
lingerie waist, bsing thin will not aD-
preciably increase the size of the waist.
Consider Your Figure
1t is by no means q hard and-fast
rule that the patterns high waist-line
must be made the same actual line at
the top of every skirt You may have
some deviation of figure which, though
slight has ncCessitated some alteration
fitting in the vertical lines of waist
and skirt, and it is quite as important
that the few horizontal lircs shall be
individually suitable The same posi-
ton of bands and founces cannot be
expected to be equally suitable for q
39-lnch and 43-inCh skirt length,
Correspondingly shorter length
from neck to waist-line may require
that the high skirt-line be lowered a
bit. 1t is easily understandable that a
stout figure may not gracefully wear a
very broad glrde For best effects, the
latter's breadth should diminish proper
tionately with the inches that are added
to bust and waist measure. On general
principles, one piece of advice to a
stout woman IS to avoid horizontal
lines.
Breaking the Waist-LinI
The skirts high waist-line may be
broken to good effect by bretelle-like
straps, that cross the shoulders and ex-
tend down on the skirt we'll over the
natural waist-lIne. They should be
braided or otherwise trimmed