Omaha daily bee., 1909-05-02

are stil preferred for these coats, although
there ave been on the market this spring
smooth. black goods with almost invisible
checks, stripes and ailover patterns. They
have not the smartness OF the rough ma
terial. which looks best when It Is con-
trasted with the silk that covers the lapels.
These Chesterfields which are made es-
pecially for the few dress occasions of the
spring season are cut longer than the or
binary coats Of spring and fall well below
the knee. They are cut into the figure in
the case OF slight men. as that has become
in the present rage for loose garments one
means OF indicating that a garment is in
tended for formal wear. There never was
a time. however. when the vogue Of the
loose coats was as great as 1t is this
spring.
There Is one advantage for the stout man
in the loose coat. II conceais curves. one
of the notably well-dressed men of New
York City was walking up Fifth avenue
the other day, wearing what was obviously
a new Chesterfield. made for dress wear.
The tailor had done one OF two features Of
his job too well.
He had cut the coat too close in the
back. Its lines closely followed the curve
OF the shoulders, the hips and the drop in
the back. The result Of this relentless pur-
suit of the natural line was the exposure
of the fact that this middle aged man was
getting fat. Nothing so promptly reveals
the increase OF avoirdupois as these too
close fitting garments. Luckily there IA
usually little chance of that this spring
either In the sack coats or the overgar-
ments.
Braided OveFcoats Offered.
The braided o~vercoat is also here, al
though there seems little popularity for It
In comparison with the demand for braid.
Ing on other garments. The braided coats
are necessarily intended for dress wear and
are therefore in smooth black materials or
in grays that have very little roughness.
The braided coats with the reyers COW
cred with silk make a very formal over
coat, but the style is u~nsuited to any but
the most c~eremonious occasions. 1t suits
well the evening dress of early spring.
But men who buy garments specially for
this kim Of wear are much better suited
with a long, loose coat that has just been
put on the market.
1t touches the figure at few points and
falls directly from the shoulders, although
without the flaring looseness of some Of
the more Informal coats. 1t is lined through
01N "ANA soNAA AAAN CONSiS ~ ItNtIb.
There is no attempt to make of this a
paddock coat with the separate skirts. The
back is finished with a deep vent in the
center. There is a separate turnback cuff
in some instances, although as a rule the
three buttons that can really be fastened
and unfastened are considered enough fin
ish FOR such a coat.
Some of the less conservative tailors have
been known to add silk cuffs, the silk be-
ing the same as that used in the revers, to
finish the sleeves, but that seems like a
case of gliding refined gold. The braided
black coat has, Of course, more general
usefulness than this special garment.
which, attractive as 1t is, can be used only
for evening dress.
Esthetic TaiIors Kick,
Braid has made it's impression already on
the spring styles in a new form. Here is
the testimony of a professional tailor on
that subject.
When l say 1 regret the arrival of the
braided sack coat."u this experienced
creator of fashion said an perfectly
frank. A sack coat is a garment meant for
informal wear. To put braid about 1t in
dicates an effort to make 1t something II
was never intended to ber r-iz,4o INV,
Already in London men are wearing
silk hats with sack coats. They think the
trimming of braid makes 1t so formal that
It ranks with the frock or the walking
coat in being entitled to the dignity Of a
silk hat.
Then there are all sorts of things that
unscrupulousitailors may do with the braid
on a sack coat. They may trim It all over
with braid. making strange designs on the
sides, over the pockets or wherever their
imagination suggests.
1.-The braided coats that come from Lon
don are cut very long in the back with a
single vent; they have a deep roll collar
that extends so far down the front of the
coat as to make only one or two buttons
necessary, and they are braided all about
the outside edges with silk braid. OF