davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

VOW that warm weather will soon
~ be with us, there are many
~ people who are wondering how
they may modify their black to
make the wearing OF mourning a posi-
bility in the sweltering days Of summer.
You zee. mourning Is matter OF Ell
quette as much as IL is a preference on
the part of the family and protecion
to them of course. when people newly
go into mourning they don II with inc
general feeling that black Is the proper
thing to wear, but VIXEN 1t comes TO
gradually laying it aside. to remodellns
il for hot weather or cor having dressy
gowns made that still do not deny the
mourning, they are usually at loss.
Really. the wearing of mourning Is
very simple. though very important.
matter. and the degrees Of mourning
may be classified under a few hard and
fast rules. In the iii st place. or when
one first goes into mourning, crepes
must be worn. This is true unless the
mourned one is an aunt. uncle or
cousin. In that case. three months Of
simple black Is all that Is necessary.
although in summer three months OF
black and white will do as we'll.
OF course. the deepest mourning Is
worn by a widow, and this includes
gowns trimmed with crepe and made
Of lusteriess cloths. Few silks are al
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04
81

.pIc &c showing poth the short anu
the long coated spring suit, as wen
Il as the sleeveless coat that pu''oi'
low IN the breast. and the "noie
n-,rcess gown as a polonaise or coat
TO- outdoor wear. The tailored coat anu
skirt. however, promise to be the iho''
generally used, and with them the sepa
ayivea and accepted for
spring and summer
The long princess street gown %
coat "a a most graceful and picturesque
garment. and is most appropriate
the afternoon.
r.i,ored models with the shorter coats
made Of the more silky fabrics
and also designed for the afternoon
bu, not being too elaborate for morning
,se .hev are excellent in design TOT
Tho woman who is contemplating put
one costume for varied purposes. mo
lons-coated costume is more popular
,.t w,thaI more severe. 1t Is planned
for morning wear-for shopping OF
business.
The first model at the left OF our
sketch wears a worsted serge IN Que
Of the olive green's. Its high-waisteo
skirt is provided with some extra wioth
-, means of a back box pleat- 1t Is
buttoned down the side front "ith
annexed pearl buttons OF a greehlsn
tone and worn with simple fhor hihs
blouse. The long straight coat las
tons with one button, and its plainness
amounts to actual severity-even us
cou.- is made of the cloth. The hat
is quite in keeping with the gown. IL
is a natural-colored straw ADORNED WIN
a smart-Iooking black wing.
PoNGEE AND SERGE DE SOLE
The clinging coat lines on the model
IN the center and its simple fastening
Of braid loops make 1t most suitable
design for development In pongee Inc
hat Il. a prune-colored straw, with
scarf Of the same shade. This long
coat model has been successfully car
ried out in costume silks of the diner
emit soft mulberry and wistaria shades
In the short-coat model we have
more suitable afternoon costume IN
pasoda blue serge de sole with velvet
collar. The shaped bias flounce on the
skirt serves as a decoration. while 1t
suggests the sloping lines of longer
coat. A coarse but pliable straw hat
Is covered with scarf OF iridescent
sauze. the tone Of which Is blue. TO
match the gown.
The corded silks and waterproof pom
gees are such successful costume mate
rails that the modiste would urge her
patrons into them for the very early
spring IL there were any certainty that
the cloth suit would not be a stu
earlier necessity for warmth.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04
HE JABOTS

on the other hand, you are very slen-
ger, you should choose jabot OF white
and bouffant appearance. in this way
seeming to add inches to your bust and
breadth. 1t is by paying strict atten-
ton to the little details that you may
succeed in seeming to have exactly the
figure which you would like to have. 1t
is not absolutely necessary to possess
all the features of Diana and Venus to
appear to possess the beauties of both
goddesses.
The stout woman knows enough not
to wear the extremely high collar-one
which forces her double chin into prom
inence One of reasonable height is far
better, and if she chooses the right
shape, she will attain the best effect.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

vIIHEN you choose a jabot to
" wear at your throat. whether
it be for a broad Elton collar.
or whether it be with the stiff mascu-
line rundown affair that has been
worn for SO many years. be very care
full that the shape suits your figure.
Perhaps it never occurred to YOU that
the shape Of the bit of lingerie which
does duty as a tie will make a great
difference in your silhouette. If you
are somewhat inclined to avoirdu-
pois, then you must always choose a
rabat or a jabot which is built OH long
lines. and which extends almost to your
belt You see, this conspicuous straight
white in the middle of the front does
much to add length to your waist. II.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04
Invisible Ban deaux

~HERE are nearly dozen carefully
shaped bandeaux used to properly
- perch the spring hat upon the
feminine head. and This does not inc.uue
the varied shapes that the adroit milf
ner inyents on the spur of the moment
TO keep one of the new bucket-shaped
hats from settling down over the entire
head and face of her customer. Eut
now the bandeau is denied. We are told
that hats must be pulled well down
over the head and face Yes, they
must indeed be worn down. but inter-
nally they are SO laree that the bandeau
is surreptitiously admitted by our friend.
the milliner tb.ess her. what would we
women do without her?).
Yes the bandeau still exists. but IL is
not to be seen. There is TO be no EVIL
dence that il is inside of our spring hat.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

sufficient. OF course. Tor ones child one
would wear perhaps the same mourning
as one would for ones parent. although
1t is not customary for a mother who
has lost little baby to go into deep
mourning. and II she wears it. it is only
for six months.
Paris. always somewhat heartless
when it comes to the question Of wear
ing mourning. has said that white crepe
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04
)NVFNTIONAI MOURN MING

shows just as much sorrow as black.
and she is, therefore. making her spring
mourning bonnets of white crepe trim
med with black, and long white crepe
wells No doubt there Is lot Of truth
in this theory. but white has long been
considered a color of youth and inno-
cence, and it is therefore rather strain
ing point to use 1t as an emblem of
knowledge and sorrow
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04
JR CORSET
STORY
Why We Buy Two
of Them
Told Each Week by One
Who Knows

NHIS is my promised sequel to the
last chapter in my corset serial
l. II begins just where I stopped
short in my consideration OF lux
urious corsets purchased in dozen lots.
and drifted over TO less idle specula-
tons on the ACCESSIBILITY of owning two.
One corset. no matter how excellent Il
may be. will never take the place of
two. There are three obvious reasons for
the possession of two equally well-fitted
garments OF the same size. sort and
shape. IL a woman cares for herself
for her personal comfort and her in
terior-she will find IL absolutely neces-
sary to get out of the corset she has
had on during the biggest part of the
day and into the one that has been out
of commission. Then. too. IL the fresh
air theory is inherent or has been in
stilled, she will have reasons for airing
one corset while the other Is in use.
Again, any real care of the corset will
be out of the question Ii 1t be constantly
in use, and impossible to mend, clean or
repair.
The woman who is well able to pur-
chase two Of a kind at the same time,
or to plan so that her best becomes. In
turn. second best" and who. never
theless, carelessly evades all thought or
action on the subject. will in a short
time find herself the possessor of one
miserable and fiimsy affair." a limp rag
weighted down with metal pieces and
about as useless as a half-worn carpet
sweeper
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04
DUBIOUS ECONOMY

Almost every woman who has any
genius for managing can accumulate
the amount required for second cor
set 1t is not always true economy to
do without things. The majority OF u
economic most erratically at best I
think of a retired English gentleman
seized by certain fits of saving. cut
down expenses by depriving himself and
his family of the penny paper.
Legend tells US of one OF King Ar
thurs court-it may have been the
black knight. or even the green knight
who walked on his head to save his
heels. Incidentally. one thinks of the
pitiable condition of the head OF Sir
Knight after its contact with the road
ways of rural England in Arthur's day:
which is precisely the point: he saved
mis- heels at the expense of his head.
It is never advisable to save your
corset at the expense Of yourself. The
woman who goes uncorseted all day.
while her one garment is carefully hid
den In some bureau drawer Is the
counterpart of our green knight. She
has struck wide of the mark, and it
may be a difficult task to convince her
OF the necessity for more than one. To
save a corset Is not to put 1t away
where 1t can't be used. That was the
old. old theory responsible for the hid
ing away Of the only wax doll. There
is much more practical theory OF
getting the best out of what We pos
sess which is positively religious IL the
thing in question be kept in good order
and used with due respect
To get the best out of corset Is to
save it. and vice versa. 1t should be
alternated with a second and like gar
ment and in its hours OF ease il should
be kept in order. aired and rested
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

waiting some radical change In
the fashionable silhouette for
the spring season have by TINS
time been greatly disappointed. But
they must borrow some Of the gladness
OF the optimist and remember that al
though the general cut and line have re-
NAMED the same. there are plenty OF
new fashion ideas in the way of orna-
mentation and details
There is considerable liberty as to the
position of the waist line. but bouffancy,
except in the most summary of mate
rails. is taboo. Even where there Is full
ness of skirt it must be of the limpest
kind The lines of the arms. too. must
be clearly defined. and. whatever the
situation may eventually be, for the
moment most of the new models in
tended for any except evening wear
have long sleeves.
The claim of the one-piece frock Is
allowed on every hand. and smart
walking costume of the season Is I'M
auestionably a simple gown of this sort.
10 be worn with a coat of the same
material or of silk matching the mate
rial I'm color. 1t must not be assumed.
however that the old-fas hioned coat.
skirt and blouse will be entirely out OF
fashion. for you know that such a cos
tune is satisfactory for many purposes.
and especially IS this true during the
hottest summer months. when dust Is
likely TO play havoc with gown worn
every day. The one-piece model. when
designed for hot weather. naturally calls
for the finest and coolest materials. For
yfobf affrhf
serges and henriettas are used. while
for the more advanced season polgee
and fculards wiz be in vogue.
THE cABRIoLET
One Or the newest paras of the sea-
son Is made in the Japanese style and
called Go Clio San. This novelty. OF
course named after Madame Butterfly
so immensely popular during the last
season. is quite fiat. with a gilded frame
work covered with lowered silk and
finished with a wide hem Of colored
chiffon. The parasoi is made over eight
cen ribs and large ring is slipped
over it 10 hold IL together when closed.
In looking over the millinery il is no.
ticeable that lots CT abriolets are be-
Ing shown by the modistes. Directoire
hats are also made. and. as a general
rule. the crowns are very high. In these
hats a great change has been shown in
the straw. Where formerly II has been
fine, as in the leghorn and chip hats. now
IL is in wide coarse braid, which makes
q hat CT seemingly great weight. New
ertheless. these new creations have GER
tain style. and the fashion is likely to
h1ty
novelty is a wide-mesLed tulle used for
covering straw shapes, as. for instance.
a pink straw covered with a gray tulle
or n dark blue straw covered with a
shade OF taupe-
Nearly every hat Is faced with MORE
OF with straw in different shade from.
that of the hat itself. Ribbon strings
are very fashionable. and extremely be-
coming to the younger woman.
ELOISE
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

OW that warm weather will soon
be with us, there are many
peopIe who are wondering how
they may modify their black to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04
A Paris Letter
PARIS, March o.

PARIS, March q.
~ HOSE who have been anxiously
waiting some radical change In
the fashionable silhouette for
the spring season have by this
Bisbee daily review., 1909-10-23
Douglas News
Machinery Man

Machinery Man
 John Wyler, brother of Otto Wyler Of this city, was here yesterday. leav- ing this morning for Bisbee. MT Wy Ter is a representative of the Fl Paso Foundry and Machine company. of Fl Paso, and goes to Bisbee to look after the contract of the company for the erection of the big tanks being installed in connection with the fire protection system of that city
 Going to Peoria
 W. M Adamson, of the Htholite Cement Plaster company. will leave this evening on a business trip to Peoria, Illinois, where he is going to purchase a traction engine to be used in connection with his plant to haul gypsum from the beds east of Doug las to his plant in this city. Mrs. Atkinson is still in Butte. Montana where she was called several days ago by the death of her mother. and
Bisbee daily review., 1909-10-23
LECTURE
 AT UNIVERSITY

TUCSON, Oct. 22.-"Our Farmers and Our Future" lecture to be given to night at eight p. m., in the main building University campus.
 This is the first of a serIes Of ten lectures, dealing with the great economic and social problems of Ari- zona, to be given under the depart ment of history and economics this year.
 Each of the lectures will be given by the man who has been prominent ly active in the political and economic development of Arizona, and each speaker will deal with a subject on which he is capable of giving first hand knowledge.
 In bringing these lecturers from various parts of the territory to speak at the University, the department of economics has two ends in view: First, to supplement the classroom work of the students by bringing them into direct contact with the practical side of the economic and social problems which confront Ari. zona; second, to bring the University and the public into close association in the study of these problems.
Bisbee daily review., 1909-10-23
AN OPEN GRAVE CONTAINS OLD
 COFFIN
OPEN GRAVE, WITH cAsKET AT BOTTOM, is TO BE SEEN AT
 CEMETERY.

TUCSON, Oct 21. - Tucsonians, who have had occasion to visit the old cemetery recently have been mys- titled at the sight of an open grave with coffin at the bottom. This having caused considerable comment during the past few days. the Star yesterday made an investigation of the affair and learned that the body no longer rests in the coffin, but was removed some time since to the new cemetery.
 It is rather a grewsome sight that meets the gaze of the many who have visited the old cemetery recently Although, the top of the casket is partially covered by the lid of the outside box 1t is not difficult to dis cern the contents of the grave Of late, numerous persons have visited the place out of sheer curiosity and have wondered over the supposed mystery. Inquiries were made among the undertakers and of the sexton by the Star man yesterday and the req son given for this is the fact that bodies are being removed at such a rapid rate, that the sexton has not had time to refill the graves. It is said that numerous graves have been left open this way both at the old and at the new cemeteries, primari- ly because of the fact that the sex, ton has more work than he can at, tend to. The body was taken from tho grave mentioned above some time ago and the hole has never been filled. On account of the fact that the coffin was in such a state of de composition that it was impossible to remove it, it was left in the grave
Bisbee daily review., 1909-10-23
MOVEMENT IS ON ID ABOLISH
 RED LIGHT

PnOENIX, Oct. 22.-The move ment in the southern part O. town to secure the abolition of the redlight district is gathering force. If it should finely succeed the success vii. be que to the real estate advance in other parts of the town. So long as there was not a great demand for property there was a general apathy regarding the red light but now the values have gone up everywhere else, owners in the south trace the tagging prices in their neighborhood to the red light.
 But what is to be done with it is the yexing question. It would be i'm possible to locate it anywhere else in the city and almost impossible to establish it anywhere outside the city limits for the county authorities would then be called upon to inter vene. and they would certainly do it on the protest of any citizen.
 The latest suggestion is 10 give the red light people the privilege of set ding near the river al some point which will probably De unoccupied for all time and at a distance from any settlement
 This suggestion takes into account the liability at all times Of peace Gis turbance and fighting wherever the rel light is, so that it IS further pro pos ed that a tax be pface1 on the proprietors. whoever they may be for the maintenance of two officers who shall be stationed there at all times. that is, one by day and the other by night.
 But some people do not want tC go SO far in ,.e direction or recogniz lIng the red light folks of having { right to exist at all They therefore propose to abolish the district with out any provision for its future lo cation and to still keep the same cit! laws in force as now are intended u keep immortality rom coming nortl
 of Jackson or west of seventh streets
Bisbee daily review., 1909-10-23
GEN. THOMAS COMING
 ID Fl. HUACHUCA

PHOENIX, Oct. 22.-To take one of Roosevelt's famous 9O-mile rides Brigadier General E. D. Thomas. commander of the department of Col orado, will pass through Phoenix within the next few days on his way to Fort Huachuca, where he will re- main for week to inspect the mili tary post there.
 General Thomas is now in Prescott, arriving there Monday night, to re- main a week at Fort Whipple. which he recently recommended in his an nual report to Secrtary Of War Dick inson be enlarged to a regimental post.
 While at Prescott, General Thomas will be taken to Lees lake in the Verde Valley near Jerome for a duck hunt Part of his time will be given over to rceptions in his honor al Prscott. He is accompanied by Cap tain Crook, and there are many re siding in Arizona now who will pleas antly recall him as a dashing lieu | tenant and young man who was uni versally popular in civilian circles He knows every foot of this section and a landmark of his skill that stil lives is the old road that, winds uT ravines and crosses over the range from Prescott to Copper Basin. A! an engineer this thoroughfare wa! constructed by him thirty-three years ago for distinctively military pur poses in that far away day and it i: stll travelled over extensively.
 General Thomas retains his year of long and arduous service remark ably we'll His appearance is typica of a man much younger and hi genial following makes him desir able companion on any and all oc casions.
 General Thomas is among the las of the old school of the soldiers tha graced the early life of the wst ant paved the way for the present gener ation to come and reap the good tha is now in evidence where the soldier
 of Uncle Sam rst entered.
Bisbee daily review., 1909-10-23
PHOENIxCOUNTRY CLUB OPENS
 SATURDAY
COMMITTEE NAMES CANDIDATES AND MEETING AND ELECTION
 WILL BE HELD TODAY

PHOENIX, Oct. 22.-The Phoenix Country club will open it's hospitable doors next Saturday, when the an- nual election for directors for the coming year will take place. The following Saturday. Oct 30, the club will formally commence the season of 1910.
 At a meeting of the directors held yesterday at the Arizona club rooms the following were nominated to serve as the board of directors tor the coming year: NJ. c. McDougall, L. H. Chalmers, I. T. Hosey, Aaron Goldberg. k. J. Schweppe. D. B. Heard R A. Craig, E. J. Bennitt, G. r. Bul- lard, H. R. Triue. R, w. Lescher, Flu gene Goldman.
 The election will take place on Sat urday. Oct. 23. and all members are expected to be present. The polls will be open from until 5, and re treatments will be served by the re tfring directors.
 The club anticipates a most sue cessful year. The golf course and ten his courts viii soon be put in first class condition, and the cozy club house will be the scene of many en- joyable events.
Bisbee daily review., 1909-10-23
JAPs AT GLOBE F|GHI OVER 4
 LOAN

GLOBE, Oct 22.--In a cutting af- fray on lower Broad street late Mon day night. a Japanese porter known as Togo was slashed in nine places.
 Another Japanese known as Frank is in custody on a charge of having assaulted Togo with a deadly weapon. He will probably be given an examin- ation today.
 From what has been learned Of the injured man, he borrowed $24 from Frank some time ago and since that time, had made no attempt to repay tho money.
 Monday night Frank secured infor nation to the effect that Togo had made a winning in a well sheltered fan tan game. He asked for the re- turn of the SPA but was refused.
 Later, the officers claim, he came upon Togo while the latter was sit ting down near Barclays livery stable Without warning. it is said he attacked the other Japanese.
 Togo was slashed in the forehead, or both arms, in the back, on the breast and in other places. l While painful, the wounds are not considered to be of particularly dangerous nature Togo is confined to his room, not having been taken to the hospital.
 Prank made no statement regard ing the affair.
Bisbee daily review., 1909-10-23
DOUGLAS COUNTRY CLUB
 ENTERTA|NS GOLFERS

DOUGLAS. Oct 22.-(Special)-
 Over forty, guests and hosts, sat about the festive board of the coun- try club last night for a golf sup per. The occasion was the payment o1 the supper which the Reds lost to the Blues in golf and very jolly time was enjoyed by both guests and hosts.
 The supper was an informal one ana there were no toasts or speeches. After the inner man was satisfied the balance of the evening was spent at cards
 The Reds want another chance and have challenged the Blues for re turn match Every Red feels that he has it over his Blue opponent if giv- en another chance, so that 1t is prob ale that the second match for a supper will be arranged.
Bisbee daily review., 1909-10-23

Red, Weak, Weary, wafery Eyes.
 Relieved By Murine Eye Remedy. Try Murine For Your fsye Troubles. . You Win Like Murine. 1t Sootbes- 50c At Free. Murine Eye Remedy O., Chicago.
Bisbee daily review., 1909-10-23
Cochise County and Territorial News

it may be that Mir Adamson win re, turn home by the way of Butte. Here from Mexico
 Robert Reay, brother of w. J. Reay. of this city is here for visit frcm the City of Mexico. where he resides.
 End Seems Near
 Frank Hogan, 0, Fifth street, is said to be near death today. The immediate cause is pleurisy though he has long been a sufferer from pulmonary trouble.
 New Music Store
 G. L. Lenord. the piano tune. lett tlis morning for Cincinnati to mako arrangements for opening a first class music store in this city. He expects to be gone for three or four weeks. Special Rate Maoe
 One fare and 2 .hird to Fl Paso and return is announced on account of the annual concIaye of Scottish rite Masons held in that city October 18th to 30th. inclusive. Sales date October 24th and 25th.