The Hawaiian gazette., 1909-06-04

given IN honor II Keopuolani Queen
~ kamehhmsha iiutl. refers 20 the
"a ut ~ the dancers In these words.
''1hpif dresses were VI beautiful ycl.
low native cloth, arranged In thick Zee
ioons 90 folds from the waist 10 the
knee Rev. Mr. Ellis In bis dcsetip-
ton ~ visit 20 Governor Adams tku-
akini) at Kailua, speaks Of a dance held
there. and refers to one Of the dancers
In these words, "a beautiful yellow
iapa was tasiefully fastened around his
loins reaching TO his knees" MIR. Ellis
also writes Of "hula IA laau," or
dance TO the beating OF sticks. held at
the home of Queen Kcopuolani at La
hama Six women, he tells us, dressed
In yellow ,apas, covered with leis of
flowers and with branches of MALE
around their ankles, danced with great
decoum. while Eve musicians, each
with stan In one hand and n stick Of
hard wood in the other. furnished the
music Both musicians and dancers al
ternated in chanting songs in honor OF
the old gods and chiefs 10 the gratifica
tion Of the crowd. This entertainment
closed in a manner unique yet quite In
keeping with the simplicity of those
days Queen Keopuolani requesting the
performers TO cease as the time had
arrived for evening worship. all then
sat down in front of the house, a hymn
was sung, a verse from the Bfble read
and sermon listened to by an atten-
tive audience.
Another garment in common use was
the kihei. This MANTLE square in shape,
worn by tying two corners together of
the same side and passing tho head
through the opening thus made, leaving
one arm and shoulder bare, the knot
resting on the other shoulder, has been
compared to the toga of the Romans.
Those of us who have ever seen it
worn by some Hawaiian of command
ing presence, can appreciate the follow
ing description of Kealiiahonui of Kau-
al. Rev. Mr.. Cheever writes in 1923,
"He has a handsome face, and in the
classic drapery of yellow satin malo
and purple kihei he presents as perfect
, a model of manly beauty as ever chal-
, lenged the efforts of pencil or chisel. -
Again referring to the same chief later
on, he says, "Twenty-one years have
not altered his fine proportions or bent
, his noble athletic form, although the
classic malo and kihei have given place
to the European jacket and trousers"
1t is an interesting fact that the house
now standing on the premises known as
Haalelea Lawn, was built by this same
chief Kealiiahonui. His wife, the Prin-
Z cess Kekauonohi. afterwards became
r the wife Of Haalelea, who was the
brother-in-law of one of the daughters
present today, Mrs. Coney.
From its very nature, tapa, especially
as an article Of clothing, exposed to
all kinds Of weather, was perishable,
q and suits had to be often renewed.
Hence in houses set apart for the pur-
; pose the Importance Of this industry
, was recognized. Each Hawaiian with
q the exception of the very poor) had
! a house built close to the dwelling place
y for the beating of tapa and to the
- women of the family fell the task of
- making and perfecting this beautiful
= CLOTH Mr.. Ellis in his interesting
:, "Tour of Hawaii, - refers to the tapa
:, industry in the following words: For
u several days past we have observed
> many of the people bringing home from
: their plantations bundles of young
u wauke, from which we infer that it is
y the season for cloth making in this
X part of the island Again he says,
e "This morning we perceived Keoua,
q the governor wife, and her female at
q PENDANTS with about forty other wo-
% men. under the pleasant shade Of a
n beautiful clump of kou trees, employed
T. in stripping OFF the bark from bundles
" of wauke sticks for the purpose OF
u making cloth He adds, "Keoua, not
J. only worked herself, but appeared to
Is take the superintendent of the whole
re party. Whenever n fine piece of bark
r was found, it was shown to her and
IL put aside to be manufactured into Wal
n liilii or some special cloth. With lively
$, chat and cheerful song they appeared
to beguile the hours of labor until noon
i when having finished their work, they
20 repaired to their dwellings" The fol
n lowing description of an anniversary
al festival in the time of Kamehameha III
'f is also interesting as coming from an
lie eyewitness, and gives us an idea OF
l. the lavish manner in which tapa was
re used on ceremonious occasions. The
IF writer (Mr Stuart) says of Kinau
he Daughter of the great Kamehameha
J. "She was wrapped in such quantities
rs of native cloth as not to be able ia
10 move without assistance, having sup
is porter on each side, and a number OF
y attendants preceding and following her
d. bearing the ends of her drapery. +" I" Ke
n kauonohi," he tells us, "appeared cos
st tuned in the same manner on this oc
casion," and adds, "the young Prin
n cess Nahienaena dressed in native clotf
in and seated on tapas of more than
ne hundred thicknesses, was borne in or
IN the shoulders of dozen of her CHIEF
Il. men,"
ed The rare specimens seen in thu
Bishop Museum today show the choice
d quality of the tapas of the old day.
r. and speak with silent eloquence of thu
20 taste and skill of the early daughters OF
as Hawaii. "If," as Ruskin says, cit II
e. not question of how much we are Il
a. do, but of how it is to be DONE" have
n they not set us an example worthy OF
f.. imitation on all lines, by giving u
n in tapa the best of its kindl
to