The daily sentinel., 1909-01-15
THE NEWEST IDEAS OF
TICKLE DAME FASHION
IBy Catherine Mann Payzant. /

By Catherine Mann Payzant.1
New York, Jan. 14.-All fashion
able fabrics for evening waists lend
! themselves to dainty effects this sea-
son. The materials for the winter
are soft and pliable, like those of the
summer, though there is tendency
| towards closer weaves. Plain soft
| colors in dull tones are in highest fa-
I vor, though many fancy herring
bones and chevron stripes as well as
alternating stripes of plain and
checked patterns are to be found
Blouse waists are as popular as
ever because of the tendency towards
the two-piece costume having a waist
that harmonizes in color but not in
weave. For economy. many changes
and complete good taste, this idea
bids fair to rival the one-piece cos
tune with its long, loose separate
coat.
To say that these separate waists
are cheap or economical from the
first-cost point of view. is to make a
mistake, though they may be as in
expensive or as costly as is wished
for. The idea that appeals to many
a woman is the many changes that
may be rung upon this one gown.
1t may partake of the empire by the
addition of the empire girdle made of
the costume material. or it may be
made more business-like by its plain
silk waist and tailored collar. or
again fit for a matinee by means of
its lace waist dyed to match the
gown.
Dyed lace of all kinds and all
weaves is the most fashionable fab
ric of the day. The dying esta e lish-
ments are making special efforts to
exactly match these new COLOR, but
many of the big dresesmaking laces
have their own dying places 10 get
the best results. and it is thus possi
BILE to change an old but worn dress
into a seemingly new one by Il 9 aid
of the dye-pot. The different widths
of tuclIs which $40 20 cro t'vc'y dis
played in the2c tir-eA nos ~irs iu-
Vulnerable opportunities for va Eiety.
Some of these are quite firm enough
to be braided with narrow soutache
silver and gold braid, and velvet rib
bon of a narrow width is much used
for this decoration. In nearly every
case these blouses have bit of the
dress material stitched somewhere
upon them.
An effective model which was an
attractive combination of embroidery
on messaline was made along strictly
! tailored lines. Wide bands of the
embroidery extending down the front
had similar bands finishing the
sleeves. This blouse would be we'll
| fitted to wear with a strictly tailored
cloth suit. built of one of the very
rough chevoits which are so very
fashionable just now. A waist that
was intended for wear with a taupe
colored serge having n silky finish is
of tucked messaline and heavy lace
and high girdle of the serge. The
body is of the tucked messaline with
Il lower section of tinted lace which
extends from the waist line up and
around the armholes and again in the
sleeves. Two short remnants could
thus be made up very effectively and
cheaply. So frequent is the use of
different materials in the newest
dresses that many bit ofreally beau
tiful material may be secured at the
bargain counters which in the other
counters could not be bought at all.
For house or evening dresses satin
soft finished silks and broadcloth in
n light weight are preferred. Many
of the lightweight broadcloths are to
be found in printed designs either
in an all-over or border pattern
The new pongees that have satin
like finish are being much used for
blouses of this order as well as for
the one-piece gowns. A gown of this
sort might be developed with a skirt
of one of the fashionable cuts. with a
blouse having yoke of tucked chiffon
to match and an over yoke encircling
ii of embroidered lace. The waist
proper was made with front and
back panel and shoulder pieces cut
in one, to which We're attached the
body portions and sleeves. Some of
the softer ottoman silks or benga-
lines would make up prettily in a
similar style to this: and the colors
to be chosen are many and n becom-
ing one can surely be found among
the great variety shown this season.
A pretty afternoon dress was of
eggplant Cpurple) color. covered
with polka dots done in silk of the
same shade. The yoke was of self
colored net arranged in broad tucks
The bodice yoke was of black satin
embroidered in dark and light shades
of eggplant. The shoulder yoke was
ornamented with satin-covered but
tons and loops, both front and back.
as was the skirt made in directoire
style, with the left side plated in
panel effect. A girdle draped in soft
folds of black satin completed this
attractive costume.
The princess skirt of the present
time has changed the arrangement of
the separate blouse at the waist line,
and all of the new models are de-
signed to be worn under the skirt, the
line of union being left entirely un-
covered or concealed under folded
sash. 1t is a noticeable feature that
all of the girdles of this sort fasten
on the side. and softly folded sash
falls low on the skirt All unneces-