davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04
Don't ALWAYS Blame the Mliner for the Failure of Hat

models are built after the fashions OF
the 1906 to 1915 period. with cabriolet
crowns and short backs. There were
many fascinating turbans both in tuile
and straw and in a combination of the
two materials. Some of. the smartest
models were helmet shaped in ribbed
straw, with borders of small flowers and
knots of black velvet. A very fetcnlng
satin straw. innocent of trimming save
small bunch of pink roses at the side.
Another hat in this military shape was
of black erin, having compact little bou-
1uets OF pink and white anemones at
equal distances about the crown. All the
old-fashioned spring flowers. including
jonquils and narcissi. are pleptifully used
In sensational models there is the three
decker hat. with ultra high crown and
almost no brim. Such piece OF head
gear gives an effect of heariness and an
utter disregard for the law of balance.
1t will be a thousand pities II these three
decker monstrosities become popular. for
they only possess charm on certain heads.
On tailor-made hats the large bow
evolved from silk or satin is still promi-
nent trimming. In these fabrics the loops
are much more graceful than when RIB
bon is used for the bow. The new hats
display great variety In straw. and
there IS a decided simplicity Of adorn-
ment but the color schemes are so lovely
and artistic that the amateur colorist is
lost If she attempts anything out of the
Ordinary. so. TAKING the spring IHliiiHcis
in it's entirety, ranging as 1t does from
stiff toques to picturesque bonnets, the
results are mighty satisfactory.
Having discussed the hats OF the mo-
ment, I have a word or two to say about
the blouses Of the season. Any one who
thinks that the modish woman has for
saken the separate waist is sadly mistak-
en-, for one sees the loveliest new models
in all the shops. Fine lingerie blouSes
have become q necessity Of the summer
wardrobe, and new ideas in this useful
garment abound. Why. II even looks like
the old-time light silk waist worn with
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04
EASTER FAIRY LANTERNS.

ITO convert eggs into fairly lanterns
bore a small hole with the point Of a
needle on the opposite side of the shell
near the top and run the bent ends OF
fine wire hairpin through the holes 10
form the lantern handle. Straishten ont
another wire hairpin. bend one end into a
loop around the middle Of the lantern
handle and twist the other end securely
around the notched end of slender stick,
by which to carry the tiny affair.
When you want real light inside the
lantern light a small short candle. drop
some of its melted wax on the bottom
of the lantern, blow ont the candle and
Immediately set its base down on tho
melted wax, which will NCn harden. BE
sure to have the candle shorter than the
lantern, and when all is ready relight the
candle and the fairy lantern will shine
like iem. If you want the light very
red, paint the lantern with water colors
a bright red, or it is effective painted in
different colors to resemble real Japa-
neSe lantern.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

eyes under the girdle to hold the waist
and skirt together.
Plain skirts with this full effect at the
bottom are much worn. and since the
odd bodice Is by no means shelved. a
lace or net waist and this graceful skirt
would effect the look OF second cos
tune. There are numbers OF all-over
laces which are extremely reasonable In
price. but remember always that big.
elaborate patterns are more aging than
the small. simple ones.
Silk Recovered buttons. pipings. tiny stin
bows and neckties in color are all seen
on many OF the white net and lace waists.
The bows. which are very small. are
placed in rows of three at the front or
the collar and sometimes down the front
OF the bodice.
If satin or SILK cannot he afforded. cash
mere or yelling would do for this dress.
and if the latter has satin stripe border
ing it would not affect elegance. In fact:
the bordering could be used in place OF
the guipure here employed upon the bod
ice. and SO lessen expense.
Figure G is suggestion for one OF the
several house gowns required by every
woman for looks and comfort. While
loose and comfortable. it is yet grace
fully shaped with a fitted back and the
loose fronts held in at the waist line with
ribbons. Figured challie. dimity. sum-
mer lawn. dotted swiss. and flannel are
all correct materials. according to the
use made of the gown, and II the more
fragile textures are used very charm
ing effect can be made with lace inser-
tons and edgings and daintily tinted
ribbons.
IF the wearer has white hair and a
good complexion. violet and white dim
ity and some inexpensive valenciennes
l5eI,- I.1a lIrlcr o
Some new wash ribbons for tub materials
are in the palest flower tints with self
toned satin spots or figures.
Figure d is useful dressing jacket.
which could be made of flannel challie.
dimity or lawn. and with long OF three
uuarter-length sleeves. For breakfast
uses such a jacket is perfectly suitable.
and with the addition Of a fiat pocket on
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

dark skirt would be revived. at any rate,
a celebrated shirt waist house on Broad
way is showing line OF charming white
and ecru-colored blouses i'm India silk.
foulard and pongee plentifully sprinkled
with tiny polka dots in dark color 4
plated frill edged with a narrow band Of
dark silk the color OF the dot in the ma
terial making the waist runs down ono
side of the narrow front box plat. Bands
of this silk also run down either side or
the plat from the shoulder 10 the waist
line. The sleeves arc long and close fit
ting, and the point over the hand Is fin
ished with a plating and band of silk.
The high collar has an everhanging frill
at the top and a band of the dark dotted
silk at the base. Such blouses are de-
signed for wear with skirt and coat suits
and band trimmings There are immense
ly chic little blouses of pongee and fou-
lard. with trimmings formed of narrow
Persian borders. This model lacks the
distinction of the pin dotted variety. for
1t reminds one OF the hideous bandanna
affairs OF several years ago. Embroid-
cred dots and scallops decorate many OF
the new silk and linen blouses.
Cotton crepe waists trimmed with cluny
in band and yoke effects are very good
style and exceedingly practical affairs for
the summer traveller. They are all mads
with but slight fullness, as the material
would launder badly IF the usual plaits
were in evidence. As for the dressy net
and lace blouses. their name is legion. a
smart 5th avenue firm has an exclusive
model in fine cream net hand embroidered
in heavy ring dots in self-colored silk
It il built on thes implest lines. tiny hand
Of lace down the front. The sleeves are
long and have the lace jabot hanging
over the hand and extending on the outer
seam almost to the elbow. Another blouse
fancy is the placing OF chiffon over lace
or chiffon OVERLAPPING net that has been
worked with design in soutache. The
blouse OF lingerie type will be another
story. CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

is cut in regular shaped pieces.
An appetizing sandwich Is made from
fresh homemade bread cut thin. but not
in water slices for a foundation. The
filling consists of cream cheese. chopped
green peppers and walnuts. 4 little may
onnaise is used with the cheese to cream
it. Probably you have discovered that
nayonnaise has discouraging fashion
OF separating when being mixed. but II
a little of the white of one egg Is added
to the yolk with which the oil is mixed
this trouble will be overcome.
When q number of guests are asked
to an afternoon tea chocolate table Is
established in a convenient spot. with
the prettiest girl of ones ACQUAINTANCE
to do the honors. The up-to-date hostess
serves her chocolate In cups placed In
repousse silver holders. There lie quite
a fancy now for serving marshmalio" VS.
with hot chocolate. They are passed. IN
a bonbon dish. and two or three or the
candies are dissolved in the hot beV-
erage giving il delicious flavor. A
few drops Of Cuban rum added to ohoeo-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

late improves the flavor, while many per-
sons put a drop or two Of vanilla In the
whipped cream on top.
Chatting dish parties are lots OF fun
for the college girls and boys home for
the holidays. and now that the matter
of digestion has become one Of the fads
Of the moment we do not risk our cheer
full outlook on life by indulging in the
rarebit prepared a la chatting dish. No;
we Fletcherize with mind filled with
thoughts OF peace. hope and love upon
delicate creamed chicken, an omeiet or
some edible not conducive to worry from
dyspeptic troubles. A club sandwich, put
together after the following recipe in
GUIDED in the supper menu will be Iafied
with choruses of DO it again. from
your enthusast site guests. 1t consists OF
two large slices Of bread cut into rounds
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

seems to me that millinery, as whole.
occupies a higher position today than 1t
ever has before. Here and there one sees
absurd examples. but the general average
of models turned out by milliners this
season are way beyond the efforts of
modistes of other years. 1t il. too an
injustice to blame a particular m,lliner
for the failure of lat for so many
women who can afford to buy the best
models have not the rare gift of selection
and the average saleswoman is employed
10 sell hats whether they make the Gus
toner look like a fright or the reverse
A picture hat worn With a short skirt IS
an ncongruity often to be observed on
women who are supposed to be we'll up in
sartorial etiquette. or a -jaunty travelling
nat may he the head covering topping a
trailing chiffon robe. In such cases one
is apt to blame the inilliner and the
fashions instead OF the individual woman
No millner can nstil sense of proper
u woman has mastered the laws of af-
fnity in the matter of dress she has be-
come great. and then if she adopts the
millinery of 1909 she will charm her
friends and her modiste alike.
Among the hats seen on the avenue |
noticed IL singular lack of feathered trim
mings so I HE'D myself into a swagger
est a blishment TO know the reason for this.
Madame showed me the carefully guarded
novelties in the large cupboards. remark
ing: You will not find a feather on any
FOR the moment. A little ribbon velvet
and flowers in prim punches trim most
of our spring chapeauX, as you see. AS
to the shapes, the large ones are quite
out of date. Even the moderate-siZe hat
has been reduced, and most of the new
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

as thin as tissue paper. Bake in mod
crate oven until brown. and while still
warm roll around a curling stick.
Chocolate brownies. too. are something
quite new and not at all difficult to manu-
facture These cakes with the impish
name are made follows: Stir one
fourth cup Of melted butter, into one cup
Of sugar. break In an egg and beat the
whole together: add two squares Cor
ounces) OF chocolate. melted over hot
water. and beat again. add teaspoonful
OF vanilla. half cup OF sifted flour and
half q cup of walnut meats and beat I'M
til we'll mixed. Line a pan about seven
inches square with raraf1n paper. spread
the mixture over the paper evenly and
bake in a slow oven. Turn the pan as
soon as baked and peel of the paper.
then cut the cake into strips with a
sharp knife. When the cake is hot the
paper is easily removed and the cake
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

it adds a dramatic touch if this adopted
daughter of the wandering tribes comes
dancing into the drawing room TO the
music of her tambourine
OF course. you will use your best tea
cloth of fine handkerchief linen, and
perhaps it will have a fall of Flemish
lace about the edge and inset motifs
of the same lace outlined with a fancy
herringbone stitch. like the cloth seen
in one of the illustrations. The new sand
witch plates of crystal and silver should
be used: also one of the up-to-date dishes
for slices of lemon. On the table place
two crystal candelabra. with shades of
jonquil silk, covered with lace matching
the cloth. and i'm the center of the table
set a rather tall. slim crystal vase. hold
ing few loosely arranged stalks or jon
q,iils and narcissus. with fringe of as
paragus fern to soften the effect. When
the tea outfit and bonbon dishes of crys-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04
Always Found Her in a Shirt Waist.

and look plenty of times and long as
possible. In most cases this will not be
vanity What I want you TO do is -
study your own facial contour-back.
front and side. They say that when
Queen Elizabeth grew old she never would
look into n mirror. but trusted to the
ladies OF the court to fix her up, and that
10 get even with her they painted her
cheeks white and her nose red. Well. [
say, served her right for being so foolish.
The woman who doesn't study her own
face before buying a hat is just as big
a goose
Having decided what kind OF shape
YOU need Id improve your natural out
lines, buy il large enough. Remember a
med, and that is the fault with most all
the women who make their own hats
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04
SWEETS SMELLING HERB BED.

the virtues of angelica for coughs and
other chest disorders. Borase. which Is
a hardy annual is used i'm Italy. when the
leaves are young and tender, as raw or
cooked salad. and In France its flowers.
like those OF naeturtium, to ornament
salads.
Caraway. coriander and anise seed ars
useful for cakes and bread and cordiale.
and fever-few horehound and cumin are
excellent for the medicine chest
The situation most suitable for an herb
bed should have gentle slope toward
the south. The worst soil for herbs is
that of stiff. clayey description. But a s
general recommendation for the right sort
Will not suit all herbs it is best 10 so by
q garden book.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

tai added the table is comfortably
equipped and presents a charming sight
from the viewpoint of the epicure in ;
o'clock viands and of the esthetic OBJ
server. But every girl knows how she
will develop her color scheme. and this
one is merely offered as an appropriate
Eastertide suggestion. But all fair maid
ems are not quite so sure of their ability
to make some Of the new dainties that
are being served at smart 8 o'clocks.
Japanese friend of mine has just
told me how to make the little oriental
cakes | have always found so delicious
at her home. This is the way to concoct
the frail delicate waters that she serves
with tea: Break the white OF one egg In
bowl. add one tablespoonful of sugar,
stir n moment and then add one table,
spoonful of flour and one-half teaspoon
full OF softened butter: beat TO the thick
ness of cream. pour a teaspoonful OF thin
batter on the reverse side of a large
baking pan. slightly creased and with
the back of the spoon spread it until il is
about four inches In diameter and almost
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

and toasted delicously. Between the
slices after they are buttered are put
layer OF chicken and cold boiled tongue
both cut in thin Slices and a few bits OF
bacon. The whole Is dressed generously
with mayonnaise and the sandwich put
together and eaten piping hot.
But. apropos OF original entertainments.
possibly the banner for the bizarre in
these affairs should be given to the
hostess who recently gave a reversed
dinner The first thing set before each
person was black coffee. followed by
liquors. cigars and dessert. Then came
course after course. served as at the ordi-
nary dinner. but brought on exactly the
reverse of the usual order. The distorted
repast ended with oysters on the half
shell and cocktails. A witty guest re-
marked that the only false note in the
fantastic feast was the serving OF the
meal from q table OF the floor instead
Of on thu ceiling. and the conventionality
Of the guests weAffng their costumes in
the regulation fashion instead of upside
down. DAPHNE DEAN.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04

IN our grandmother's time there was
always bed for old-fashioned herbs
in the vegetable garden. There.
against sunny walls. Or in prim
hedges around things of a more
rractical nature, grew the leaNed ana
lowered plants which made elegant per-
fumes, hot drinks for the cure of various
ailments, seasonings for fowl and game
and which even went. in some wisffui
spriuc perhaps. to declare love or the
nassinS of it 10 faithful or delinquent
lovers.
There, with parsley. marJoram and
thyme grew lavender, angelica, rue.
rosemary and balm: herbs for disordered
stomachs, herbs for elegant sentiments
and homely usefulness.
An herb bed is the next best thing 10
an entire garden for the woman who
loves growing things and wholesome out
door exercise. Many herbs call for a
different time OF planting, and naturally
climate must be taken into account. But
q stamped and addressed envelope. in
closed in a letter asking for leaflet on
herbs. would bring help from the Agri-
cultural Department. The tiniest patcn or
ground would reap harvest of the de-
Iiciously smelling plants. but if this is not
available box in a sunny window would
grow several varieties. Chives. which
capital for seasoning SdldOS, may De
raised In clay flower pot.
For kitchen uses fresh herbs. such as
parsley. thyme. tarragon. sorrel. sage and
marioram are invaluable, these imparting
a taste far more delicate than the dried
plant Lavender. the flowers Of which are
so much used for pertaining linen and
for the making OF toilet water. is a very
hardy plant Each year will increase the
lavender plantation. too. IL slips or young
shoots are regularly planted In the spring.
Hot water poured on lavender flowers and
allowed to stand a while was once taken
in teas poonftls a medicine. The flow
were also preserved and eaten as a
sweet.
Angelica and borage. two old-time ia
vorites. are eaten TO this day in various
countries. Candied angelica liz one of our
own confectioners' great delicacies, and
when pushed for something green. the
stalks of the plant may he blanched ard
eaten as celery. the Lapianders eAtol
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04


respect in the hearts of her
family. Along with natural af-
lection and the reverence which
mere parenthood creates there
Is a courtesy displayed toward her on
occasions which might almost be called
formal.
For example, no grown son who mas
any regard for the prejudices OF the
mother Will smoke in parlor where new
curtains have just been hung. II he has
been brought up like a gentleman he will
not smoke at All until he has asked per-
mission.
The daughter who is beginning to have
have children OF her own, Is equally So
lictous for the mothers comfort. NO
visitors are brought 10 the house who
may give the head Of it displeasure No
guest Is invited 10 luncheon OF tea I'M
Ill the mother has been consulted and
given her consent She is served first at
Ia BILE. given the most comfortable chair
in the drawing room. listened to re
spectfully, admired. feted, adored.
\ husband who knows what is due his
wife will insist upon all the household +
respecting her slightest wish. He knows
that for an establishment TO have dignity
the wife and mother must be sovereign
ruler in her own home. With the words.
With all my worldly goods. I thee en-
dow the parlor curtains were made
hers: the dining room table, with its mod
est or elegant appointments. were hand
ed over TO her with a deed signed by
the church. She is queen crowned and
enthroned, and II there is n family OF
grown children, for whom she has died
many times. ii were. she often wears
the nimbus OF a saint.
WHO are the women who fail in hav
ing all this They are the wives who
are not themselves always courteous to
husbands or solicitous of their comfort.
They are the mothers who did not begin
with little eXactions OF politeness when
the children were young.
The trifes OF behavior which go to-
ward building M the dignity that in
spires home respect are countless. No
day can pass in the early moments of
married life without attention to them,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04
like being without some species of COW

like being without some species Of COW
ering.
The models illustrated this week are
suitable for women of any age, though
the two gowns are best adapted to slim
figures. With each feather boa or
shoulder mantle would give a quiet touch
FOR street wear. and either smart bon
net small hat would be sutab head
gear.
Figure A demonstrates pleasing model
for cashmere. which is a material to b.
found in every city and town of the
l-nited States. This gown Is so simple
recognize its advantages. The bodice
and Skin; are separate. bat the button
trimming IS arranged 20 Civ 2 sem-prin-
rasS effect. The waist is closed Al the
back with hooks. and the bands and but
tons are OF satin. covered buttons of this
sort being I this momenI extremely fash
iona BILE.
The little chemisette Of tucked muslin
gives the simple touch fashion likes. bat
this may also be Of net lace or silk. Tie
long-closed sleeves shown are much in
vogue. but since thare are wearers WHO
still insist upon elbow lengths. the model
allows for both styles. The fve-gorel
skirt is a useful one for cashmere. and
the entire design would accommodate it
self to number OF other modest wool
or silk materials Light weight serge.
summer flannel. pongee and many wash
textures. such ss Bingham. linen and ligh;
weight duck are also feasible.
II cashmere is used. pale gray. fawr
color. mauve and violet are all mod.sll
and rewarding tnts.
Figure 3 shows an elegant afternoon
or evening toilet suited to we'll pre-
served dowager. Satin is pre-emnentlN
the choice material for this elegant gown
though a glis:ening messalina or soft
surah silk would create a more youthful
look II satin is used. black. from it
very practicability and general becom
ingness. would be first choice. with trim
mings Of black applique and the guimp'
of some handsome lace or fine figured net
The blouse and the guimpe and under
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04
Chicory.

Chicory is one Of the most wholesome
Of the spring salads. The heads with
white hearts are the tenderest. and if
liked. after taking off the rough leaves,
they may be carefully washed and left
whole for the salad. In this case a green
dish and a garnish of tender radishes
make a pretty effect. For invaids chic
Dry IL sometimes boiled in salt and water
till thoroughly tender and then drained
and served with a cream sauce.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-04-04
Turnip and Beet Tops.

These simple greens are superb for
freshenng the blood and giving tone to
the stomach They may be cooked to-
gether or separately. and with pork or
bacon or merely In sailed water Two
hours is about the time needed for ten
derness. but the time really depends upon
the delicacy and freshness OF the tops.
Buy only the freshest ones for withered