New-York tribune., 1909-10-03
Black Satin for Coats and GosOrs
No Material Is I'm Greater Demand in Paris-Ne'
Fabrics for the Tailored Costume.

Aside from the fact that short coats are gaining
In favor every day there is little change OF FORM
It IS quite possible 20 remodel successfully cos
tune OF last winter Those who avoided extreme
modes should be content 70 begin the cool days
with a last year'r costume frightened and brought
into line with new accessories. wholly up to date
such as the word in blOuses neckwear, gloves
shoes and handkerchiefs.
Colored handkerchefs In high favor. The
window OF a tiny shop in the fashionable shopping
district is hung entirely with handkerehiefs OF
different shades OF pink varying in design; plain
white centres appear with colored borders. plain
colors are plaided with white; deep borders are
striped with color. when Of the solid color ars
hemmed with narrow lines OF white and the mono
grams embroidered in white. But handkerchiefs OF
blue green with the same variations are consid-
cred as smart. The newest OF ALL perhaps,
those Of orange and khaki. To match these hand
kerchiefs cuffs and collars of coarse white
linen embroidered, or trimmed with narrow eolored
braids.
The shops are preparing for an unprecedented
luxury in furs. Fur viii adorn everything New
costumes Of silk, cloth and velvet are bOrdered
knee deep with IL. 1t widely hens coats and fin
ishes the collars and sleeves. Seen at a great
house of the Place Vendome was a coat of chest
colored velvet. to slope from just below
the bust TO a long point at the back. quarter
Of yard deep, 1t was hemmed with fur that ended
at the closing giving the oldest appearance. The
neck. simply finished with great velvet covered
cord. showed fur at ALL The accompanying
hat of white felt. had beret crown Of fur. The
contrast Of the unprotected neck with the fur
trimming is quite in line with q remark overheard
IN the reception that day "Of course one
does not wear furs for WARMTH
For warmth and beauty also is the fur trimming
on q handsome long coat of black satin. Beauti-
fully fitted in the back. with the fewest seams
possible right side OF the front laps far to the
left the hip line. Fur finishes the neck ar
ranged TO turn high about the ears, nearly touch
ing the dropping hat brim. It follows the tapping
edge In a narrowing line 70 fasten under fur
motif dropping one long tail. On the opposite side
is large square hip pocket trimmed with two
smaller fur motifs.
Somewhat similar In form is long coat OF black
satin that also laps to one side, but at a higher
line. above the waist, fastening under handsome
old silver and Jet buckle. Continuing from this
is softly folded belt OF black satin. ending at the
opposite side OF the front under smaller buckle
TO match The revers, collar and wide cuffs
hemmed inch wide with black satin, the upper
edge followed by line Of set trimming. Sent home
with this costume huge muff Of black skunk,
stole to match, TO ht the shoulders and Cos
sacks turban Of black fur felt.
For wear with evening gowns long scarfs
Of soft thin silk. covered with moussene de sole
and hemmed and striped with marabeau. Made OF
the materials little mantelets, in cape
form. with long, narrow ends
OF pleasing novelty is scarf Of black moire
gauze. Much shorter than the usual scarf. it is
heightened by a fringe quite twenty inches deep,
made OF different sizes Of crystal tubes separated
by fine black beads. The length of gauze is so
short than when passed about the shoulders It
barely reaches TO the waist line. SauZes printed in
cashmere colors and designs turned into de-
siTable evening gowns, or used as borders on pale
colors. MARGARET ALICE FRIEND.