Omaha daily bee., 1909-09-26

50 ANtA AoNNo AAlAg NAAN1
order, making the materials effect rather
than cause, mere answers to the demand Of
the fashion makers for something that will
stand draping, but whether effect or cause,
they are ~undeniably lovely enough to tempt
any woman to extravaganza, and the
French designers have made the most Of
their possibilities in many of tho new
models.
To name all the new sheer creepy and
gauzy stuffs is beyond any one person.
TIL sales folk only hit a name now and
again. bringing it forth with triumph. and
even the buyers shrug their shoulders and
call the new material by some time hon
ored name, according to the familiar fabric
to which It is closest kin.
Crepe, union, chiffon, mousseline, de sole
and marquisette pretty we'll cover the
classes, but within these is variety beyond
enumeration. and many Of the very l~oveliest
of the sheer silky fabrics have a distinctly
creepy surface, the beautiful dulled lustre
of fine crepe,
Oversatin or combined with satin, these
materials give effects indescribably lovely,
the soft flow of the draperies accentuatlng
the suppleness and llghtness Of the sheer
fabric yet falling so gracefully over the
clinging satin underrobe that the slender,
long lines OF the silhouette are in no way
lost.
Women have refused to consider the
thick, hunched up draperies essayed ten
tatively early in the summer and exploited
at L~ongchamps and elsewhere. The dress
makers refused to give up their interest in
draperies, and the compromise effected
gives us drapery and added fulness without
any great change Of general line.
Most OF the drapery, even though shirred
or plated softly at the waistband, is drawn
smoothly over the hips and develops its
flowing movement toward the bottom OF
the skirt, where It is caught up in one
fashion or another. Often, too, the ~clinging
under robe is shown In almost its full skirt
length at some point. giving the unbrokeu
line.
one OF the most successful draped gowns
we have seen among the new importations
is Of artful simplicity, showing the hand
OF its artist maker in every line. The
sketches give two views OF It. so that side
back and front can all be studied; but
one must see the flow and simmer OF
the thin. creepy materials and the wonder
full dulled Iustre Of the satin underrobe
in order to appreciate what a charming
thing this model is.
The color is one OF the soft brownish
grays or grayish browns-a vague, smoky
rather light tone Of taupe one might cal
It. There is a prinoesse under robe Of the
Simplest satins, loose yet clinging and de,
filming the waist and lip cuTve-a robe OF
perfect cut and line,
on his is drsped an overdress which
runs up in a pointed bib on the bodice
falls smoothly and plain over the skiri
front. but Is at the very edge folded under
In several plaits. These plaits fall al
either side Of the front, and below IN,
knees are drawn softly back to Join g
straight falling back drapery hung from
the shoulders. This back drapery where Il
merges into a train is caught up with &
big ornamen Of the material and dull gold
so that the straight line OF the folds Il
broken up into waving lines.
At the sides the clinging satin under
body is uncovered from bust to knee, anc
the way in which the drapery is drawn q
the back keeps the front line Of the over