New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1909-09-26
"Oonor-Mades" Of Aufztr1''.
Short Coats Are Taking the Place of Very Long one "
: Trims Gowns, Coats and Muffs

,,g her gray hair and tying under her en-" 49,
soSt white satin ribbon becoming little luaue
Of black Chantilly lace trimmed win OD-'
pure white flowers .o,s ems
oordproys are again in favor. OF Natter pIue Is
one with a short circular skirt, bordered WIN lu'
and a half long Russian blouse. IL is pei'0N -
black satin. edged with the naTroWest Hlio % - ~,
and satin covered buttons, sunken INSIDE i''u
Of fur are set at the side closing. high s'raisns
collar Of velvet with a wider edging OF fur' iaSt-
ems under a larger button. matching those on 'hS
coat: from it hangs one little fur tail
one wonders If animals enough can be fouho 10
supply the demand for furs. In all nalulal OOol0
OF beasts and all unnatural ones, DYED 10 oruef'
fur trims everything besides being snapeu H.o
long and short coats and NANTES. Picturesque ana
like many of the seasons novelties, reminiscent "t
nearly a century ago. are large fur capeS' lIeo
sumptuously with brocaded satin. Ihey P"i' I"
little in the back below the waist line are short-
ened over the arms and descend IN iioii' '
wide long tabs. At the neck they turn over INTO
a narrow collar and fasten under hahosolhe
CLASH or passementerie ornament More youIhluA
than these are shorter capes Of the smooh sOII
skins like ermne. seal and chinchilla Cul 10 III
the shoulders closely they barely touch the waist
line at the back and at the front are shorter ana
narrower Fur neck pieces. long and straight are
desirable. Lined with Liberty satin the Color OF
the fur. they measure not quite half a Eard IN
width and are one and a half yards long, 4heS
fold about the neck with both ends thrown over
the shoulders, or they tie loosely, with one END
drawn over the other in front, leaving both 10 fall
straight.
Black fur is used in a wide band on Velvet
costume of rich moss green. A short garment
shaped like the working blouse of the french
peasant. reaches little over the hips; the edges
cut straight across. naturally sag a bit at the
corners on the side, where it is left open Few
inches The straight sleeves, with little fulness'
are drawn fur cuffs. and fiat fur collar turns
back the neck Fur trimmed buttons close 1t at
one side. This costume adorable, displayed
on the slender figure of tall manikin on open
ing day az a great house Of the Place de rOpera-
II was planned TO be topped by black hat with
huge beret crown of black velvet, trimmed sim"
ply but smartly, with twist of gold ribbon ana
large gold headed hatpins An immense fiat muir
Of black velvet fur carried
For separate skirts is half long velvet coat.
shaped on Directoire lines. There are hip skirts
with large pockets covered with triple flaps each
one showing a border of black silk braiding
velvet and braid trimmed collar turns high, hug
ging the neck closely, and there are deep cuffs to
match On each side of the front are santing
straps of wide silk braid. curving around large
buttons at the ends with braid loops for closing
New wrist bags are not much changed in form.
Large and square they continue TO be made of
soft leather matching the costume, or smaller, of
gold and silver. adorned with colored stones.
Many women prefer those of beautiful leather,
with handsome mountings Of old gold and silver,
10 the more snowy gold ones so vulgary initiated.
Women numbering among their trinkets the long
pendant earrings of long ago utilize them as a
pretty finish TO necl1tes They are mounted with
a snap arrangement so that they are easily trans
ferred from length Of ribbon another The
ohoker Of a washable guimpe often lacks a becom-
ing finish A yard of half-inch wide velvet
MORE ribbon its ends hung with metal ornament,
passed about the neck and loosely TIED in front.
gives chic to the too white finish Of the neck.
MARGARET ALICE FRIEND.