The log cabin Democrat., 1909-09-16

the march we rushed across a lead 100 yards wide. which buckled under our sledges and finally broke the last sledge left if.
 We stopped in sight of the eighty ninth parallel in temperature of 40 degrees below. Again a scant sleep and we were on our way once more and across the eighty parallel
 This march duplicated, the previous one as to weather and going. The last few hours 1t was on young ice and oc- casionally the dogs were galloping
 We made twenty miles or more the air, the sky. and the bitter wind burning the face till it cracked. It was like the great interior ice gap of Greenland Even the natives com plained of the bitter air. It was as keen as frC>-n steel.
 A little longer sleep than the previ- ous one had to be taken here, we were all in need of it. Then on again. Up to this time. with each successive march, our fear of an impossible lead had increased. At every inequality of the ice I found myself hurrying breath lessly forward. fearing that 1t marked lead. and when l arrived at the summit would catch my breath with relief-only to find myself hurrying on in the same way at the next one.
 But on this march, by some strange
  completely. The weather was thick, but it gave me no uneasiness.
 Before l turned in l took an observa- ton which indicated our position as S9 degrees 9 minutes.
 A dense lifeless pail hung overhead- The horizon was black and the Ice be- meath was a ghastly, chalky white, with no relief-a striking contrast to the glinf- mering. sunlit fields of it over which we had been travelling for the previous four days.
 Weather Becomes MiIder.
 The going was even better. and there was scarcely any snow on the hard. granular, last summers surface of the old foes. dotted with the sapphire ice of the previous summers lakes.
 A rise in temperature to 15 degrees be- low reduced the friction of the sledges and gave the dogs the appearance of having caught the spirits of the party The more sprtghtly ones, as they weRt along with tightly curled tails. frequent ly tossed their heads, with short. sharp barks and yelps.
 There was no sign of a lead in the march.
 Arrival at the Pole.
 I had now made my five marches, and WIS in time for nasty noon observation through a temporary break in the clouds. which indicated our position S9.57. I quote an entry from my journal some hours later;
 The pole at last The prize of three centuries, my dream and goal for 20 years. mine at last. I cannot bring my self to realize 1t.
 It all seems so simple and common place. As Bartlett said when turning back, when speaking of his being in these exclusive regions, which no mortal
 
 like every day"
 Of course I had my sensations that made sleep impossible for hours. despite my utter fatigue--the sensations of life time; but have no room for them here. The first 90 hours at the pole were spent in taking observations; in going some ten miles beyond our camp and some eight miles to the right of 1t; in taking photographs. planting my flags depositing my records, studying the hori- zon with my telescope for possible land, and searching for a practicable place to make a sounding.
 Plan for Return Trip.
 Ten hours after our arrival the clouds cleared before a light breeze from our left and from that time until our depar- ture in the afternoon of April the weather was cloudless and fawess.
 The minimum temperature during the 90 hours was B below, the maximum F.
 We had reached the goal, but the re- turn was still before us. It was essential that we reach the land before the next spring tide, and we must strain every nerve to do this.
 I had brief talk with my men. From now on 1t was to be a big travel, little sleep and hustle every minute
 We would try, I told them. to double march on the return-that is, to start and cover one of our northward marches, make tea and eat our luncheon in the igloos then cover another march. eat and sleep a few hours, and repeat this daily.
 Speed Nearly Doubled.
 As matter of fact. we nearly did this, covering regularly on our return journey five outward marches in three return marches.
 Just as long as we could hold the trail we could double our speed and we need waste no time in building new igloos every day, so that the time we gained on the return lessened the chances of gale destroying the track.
 Just above the eighty seventh paral- Tel was a region some fifty miles wide which caused me considerable uneasi- ness. Twelve hours of strong easterly. westerly, or northerly wind would make this region an open sea.
 In the afternoon of the 7th we start GU on our return, naNlnS uOuDle Ted the dogs, repaired the sledges for the last time, and discarded all our spare clothing to tighten the loads.
 Tries to Sound Sea.
 Five miles from the pole narrow crack filled with recent ice through which we were able to work a hole with a pickax. enabled me to make a sounding. All my wire, l.500 fathoms. was sent down, but there was no bot tom.
 In pulling up the wire parted a few fathoms from the surface and lead and wire went to the bottom. or went reel and handle Tightening the sledges still further. We had no more use for them now.
 Three marches brought us back 10 the igloos where the captain turned back. The last march was In the wild sweep of a northerly gale with drift ing snow and the ice rocking under as we dashed over it.
 Not Delayed by Leads.
 South of where Marvin had turned back we came to where his party had built several igloos while delayed by open leads Still further south we found where the captain had been held up by an open lead and obliged to camp.
 Fortunately the movement of these leads was simply open and shut. and if