Evening star., 1909-06-20

CURRENT FASHIONS FOR MEN
NOT EASY TO KEEP AHEAD OF
MULTITUDE.
Where the Difference Lies Between
the Exclusive and the Popular
Priced Goods.

/ Those men who prize distinctiveness in
dress find 1t more difficult these days to
attain. Our manufacturers have been
evidencing remarkabl alertness in dis
cerning worthy fancies in the new offer
| ings of smart tailors and haberdashers,
and equal promptness in reproducing
them in their lines. The fresh forms
do not remain exclusive" for a full
sea son. Two ways open to the smart
element that must. at all hazards. be
different. One is to note the popular
thing and wear the opposite. The other
/ is to elect such textures and effects as
cannot be copied with good results in
modest priced goods. Between these two
there is sufficient leeway for the most
exacting. And. after all, it is primarily
matter of quality and taste. There
are just bold colors and designs in
the most expensive offerings as in the
! cheapest. But they are used with bet
ter Judgment II is precisely the differ
ence between the fad and the freak
novelty without grotesqueness. Still. 1t
must be said in many cases the copied
stuffs are scarcely discernible from the
copies in the essential respects, thanks
to the manufacturing standards of the
day. BY way of example, until the cur
rent season the accordion pleated or lrl-
descent weave in cravats and half-hose
was not obtainab BILE at the shop serving
the crowd Now it begins to appear.
Its vogue. however, still remains among
well dressed men, On the other hand.
the close front fold collar. with edges
meeting was to be had at the fine shops
for some seasons before this spirit of
adoption took possession of the TroRns.
Now 1t has become commonplace ana lts
successor will be heralded before autumn.
So it goes with suitings. shirtings and
the rest. Yet we shall always look 10
the classy makers for a new trend of
the mode for, while they are very fire.
quently not the actual creators, they are
in first touch with the men who are.
No amount of skill can ever displace
| them.
Tweeds and Homespuns.
! The familiar tweeds and homespuns
have given place to cheviots for sum-
mer clothes. OF course they still have
| their devotees. but very few. Cheviots $
ion. They are used almost exclusively
has yoke. 1t is roOmy. yet not with
out shaping The shoulders are mod
erately broad the lapels deep and rolling,
instead of pressed fiat. the hips slightly
| fidred and the stitching double one-half
on edges and seams. In these respects
! the garment resembles the country jacket.
| From the shoulder to the waist seam
| runs a welt, In construction similar TO
| pleat, thfee-quarterS OF an men vice,
and another gracefully curved. to the
sleeve. The welt to the top of the shoul-
der does not extend down the back, while
the lower welts are duplicated in the
! back. Down the center of the back an
| inverted box-pleat extends to the waist
line and below it is a vent This idea
allows generous play when one is on
the links, sport for which this gar
ment is particularly favored The sleeves
are finished with cuffs, closing with two
buttons or unfastened
Styles in Cravats.
| AS for the past few summer seasons.
crepes and grenadines hold important
| place in the realm of cravats. The ir-
descent sort of which l have made men,
| ton and the crocheted the latter in bias
stripes, are likewise approved. No indi-
cations appear Of a turning to wider
forms in cravats and probably will not
for some time to come. While to some
the prospect appears bright for a great er
autumn. which would Justify wider four
in-hands. | do not look for lit because
most men do not find the wing collar
/ comfortable or firm in set with pleated
or plain neglige shirt, and these have
quite eclipsed the stiff-bosom variety. The
prospect seems better from the stand
point of the recent Introduction of a
fold collar of the lock-front type, quite
WlHelN cut away III inverted shape
and leaving generous space for a larger
cravat knot. This collar is liked by d
certain set because the outer fold does
not come in contact with the cravat
knot and thus may be cut-with very
little .'spring''-to set back snug against
the band. Perhaps this will be the long
sought successor to the close front model
At any rate, ii is new and quite dis
tinctive.
Some of the fabric selections of the
! Loo, II
novelty in evening dress. For instance
for the sWaloWtail there is black clOth h
with widely spaced self stripes and be-
tween them the slightest touch OF gray
effected by a single vertical gray thread
To be precise, there are two gray threads
separated, forming what might almost be
diGnfied as twin hairline stripes. For
the evening jacket the heavier wales will
be used some of them with the fainteSt
suggestion of gray in the weave, pro-
ducing, when viewed at certain angles
zebra stripe effect. Neither of these
patterns is at all conspicuous. The thing
that gives them greatest promise is their
acceptance by the best tailors. who did
not toffrh the much-bruited blue and pur
pie fabrics Bear in mind that these
departures are for presentation in
tumn and have not yet been exhibited
10 their patrons
Rlack and White Waistcoats