Evening journal., 1909-04-30

IN another one or those eXcep-
tions that prove the rule.
n seldom give advice. but / am
going to administer a dose of it now.
MY dear madame and mademoiselle, II
you have directoire, empire or middle
e-moyen--costumes in your ward
robe wear them now. wear them reck-
lessly, even II they are the best rags"
you own. while they are at the high tide
OF present popularity. for there is an
undercurrent in the affairs of fashion
that points to the rapid passing from
our midst of these charming styles.
After a careful study Of the latest
models sent over by Partisan designers
one arrives at the depressing conclu-
sion that the tight skirts. plain in the
back and narrow at the bottom. viii
soon be a trife out OF fashion. The
very short waists also have a has
been" air. Fortunately the changes in
the new models so far are not ex-
tremely radical. We can't leap out of
a Sheath" into "hoop," can we? Still.
the changes that have appeared show
which way the modistic straw is blow
ing. Froclxs, however, built along the
lines of the smart winter models win
pass muster all through the summer
but in the fall there is reason to be-
lieve that they will be among the
"snows of yesteryear." So. in spite Of
seeming unpleasantly insistent. / re-
peat. don't. to use a commercial term.
"stock up" too heavily with clothes
following the spring modes unless you
can discard them In the autumn with
out feeling financially embarrassed. for
the directoire frocks demand the ex-
ercise Of cleverness positively ap-
preaching genius to remodel them.
Still, for the moment, the straitlaced
lady of long lines. all up and down. is
the ideal catered to in the spring suits
Apropos of these suits. I heard a wo-
man who was looking at walking
gowns in one of our big shops here
say TO the saleswoman: Mrs. Noah Of
ark fame seems to have been the in
spiration for these styles. OF course"
she continued. Adams wife was linn
ited to fabrics. but these suits have
surely copied her primness IN their ver-
teal cuts"
1t was the novelty Of the suit which
aroused the comparison with Mrs
Noah, I am sure. There Is. though.
something fetching in these clinging
styles when the figure is svelte and
graceful.
Among the imported gowns the most
striking innovations are to be found in
the skirts many Of them showing full
ness at the back and others boasting
drapery recalling pannier days. Tha
new skirt fullness IS introduced in soft
clinging drapery in piaits or fiounces
set into close fitting jupes. and there Is
fancy for narrow shirred backs COM
bined with plain front and side lines
II Is only in the exceptional models
however. that this skirt bouffancy 4.
frankly expressed. The pannier. FOL
instance. when It does appear on ,
frock is so modest and fimsy that q
scarcely suggests the old time effec
that years ago answered to this name.
Another former style that has beer
revived Is the washwoman drapery
which on a few gowns emanating from
the Maison Beer is in evidence. 2,
the way, that famous dressmalSer hai
gone over to tho majority, the nam,
alone. like that of Paquin, being lef
for fashion TO conjure with.
Some OF the new cloth and serg,
walking skirts are cut with a flare to-
ward the hem; but. as though changing
It's mind after thus freeing itself from
the perpendicular. the fullness folds It.
self over on each side Of the front o.
back from kneo to hem, many littl
loops and buttons fastening It fiat Il
some cases a long tab from the sid
breadth reaches across the back OF tn
ankles and gathers in the center bacl
width The latter is a popularity no
to be recommended.
It is comforting to know that II one
skirt Is cut after the approved line
one can wear any kind of sleeve on
wants always providing the manche 4
rather close fitting about the arm
Long sleeves are the fashionable rule
but three-quarter and elbow lengths ar
seen on many exclusive French models
The long sleeve appears generally II
transparent fabrics and is the entir
arm length or hangs from an uppe
portion Of more substantial material
Even display OF fullness is attempte,
in some of the French sleeves. the full
ness appearing in n long puff betweei
a close fitting upper sleeve and a clos
fitting cuff. This puff is Of some di
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