The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-06-26

should occupy on the waISt-lining
While it involves a little more trouble,
1t IS rather more accurate, particularly
for the dressmakcr without great ex-
perience. Even an experienced dress
maker will prefer, to be extra cautious
when she first attempts new style that
has some novel points Of construction.
1t is simple matter to cut girdle,
using the provided pattern and odd
scraps of cambric lining. Cut this care
fully, mark the perforations, bastc the
seams and fit the girdle over the waist
lining, with the waist-line perforations
of the girdle directly at the natural
waist-line OF the figure.
Transfer these perforations, and those
for the high waist-line, to the fitted
waist-lning by pinning through both
Innings at each set OF pcrforations, then
turning over the edge Of the giTdlc and
making a continuous line OF basting-
folded edge Of the girdle as guide.
The gIrdle has now served its purpose,
and may be removed, but kept with
the pattern for future use. A we'll
fitted glrdle support may be put to sew
cral practical uses
3 Draping tho Skirt
The skirt is now to be draped to the
waist-l lining, pinning its upper edge 10
the line indicated for it on the Inning.
The skirt may be fitted, at the normal
waistline, as closely to the figure as
desired, making of the completed gown
a princess or Directoire model, as either
one or the other may be more becom-
ing. With waists of the bolcro type,
the waist portion usually ovcrlaps the
top Of the skirt, even when the latter
is finished with girdle in either crush
or plain strap form.
When waist in regulation waist
length is adopted with the skirt into a
onc-p!ece costume, it should be draped
on the lining before the skirt, and the
excess material. below the traced high
waist-line, cut away A high-cut skirt
mounted on its supporting girdle, may
be worn as separate skirt over al
most any regulation-length waist but
such an arrangement will result IN sew
eral unnecessary layers of material
about the waist, and is hardly desirable
Tor even slender figure.
The girdle-supported skirt is, how
ever, particularly we'll adapted for wear
with an unlined lingerie or silk waist.
l he necessity for an extra belt or girdlc
is avoided, and there is no danger OF
the unsightly separation at the back be-
tween skirt-beit and outside belt. The
lingerie waist. being thin, will not ap-
preclably increase the size of the waist.
Consider Your Figure
1t is b. no means a hard-and-fast
rule that the patterns high waist-linc
must be made the same actual line at
the top OF every skirt You may have
some deviation of figure which, though
slight. has necessitatcd some alteration
hitting in the vertical lines OF waist
and skirt, and It is quite as important
that the few horizontal lines shall be
individually suitable The same posi-
ton OF bands and hounces cannot be
expected to be equally suitable for a
3o-inch and a 43-inch skirt length.
Correspondingly, a shorter length
from neck to waist-linc may require
that the high skirt-ine be lowered
bit 1t is easily understandable that
stout figure may not gracefully wear
very broad girdle For best effects. the
latter's breadth should diminish proper
tionately with the inches that are added
to bust and waist measure. On general
one piece of advice to
stout woman is to avoid horizontal
lines.
Breaking tho waist.Lino
The skirts high waist-line NAV be
broken to good effect by bretelle-like
straps, that cross the shoulders and cx.
-end down on the skirt, well over the
natural waist-linc They should be
braided or otherwise trip,road