davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1909-02-14
The Mid-Season
Hat
TT is VERY difficult to face these
last few weeks before spring with

-'r is VERY difficult to face these
last few weeks before spring with
l. out providing in some way for
feadgear 1t seems an absolute neces-
sity that some sort of preparation
should be made, so that the heavy fur
toaue may be discarded and the hat OF
lighter weight may be substituted until
the days for straw hats come again.
When YOU are buying such d hat-and
I ara sure you will be unable to do
without it-choose some small one which
will fit we'll down over your marcelled
hair. Let the crown be fiat on top, and
!et the general effect he chic.
So much for the shape. For the trim
ming, let there be gold or silver,
or one of those charming tissues which h
are silver with a tint of some light
color-violet, pink or green. This charm
ing material may encircle the crown or
outline it by little band. and the orna-
fnentation may be given By a few flow
ers or by some fancy feather, which
will stand directly in the middle Of the
front.
But whatever forms the trimming OF
your new hat, be very sure that there
is not too much ornamentation piled
upon 1t. The generously decorated hat
has lost it's place for the nonce.
Evening star., 1909-02-14
A LETTER FROM PARIS

OF the moment are ostrich tips in
mixed shades-mauve with old blue.
black and mauve, and green and navy
blue.
Jet has not lost its popularity. and;
II appears frequently upon gowns and
hats. A new imitation jet is being en-
ployed-it is a polished celluloid. This
is light as feather. ana 1T is, there
fore, appropriate for summer.
The yokes of the summer gowns.
Madame" says. viii be very low and
N-shaped in the back. l cannot quite
see how gown will look with larg
er yoke in the back than the front-for
Evening star., 1909-02-14

~ NE OF the new French toques is
termed the Marie Antoinette."
1t is made of soft straw or shir-
red liberty satin, and trimmed half way
TO the high crown with a wreath OF
handmade tiny roses mixed with gold
ones.
"Puffed out very full at the back is
the Paris decree for the hair. The puff.
ing Is accomplished by a wire cage
worn underneath.
It is still positively asserted from over
the water that sleeves really will re-
main long and tight.
Washable tule predominates for tho
summer blouse, and is predicted for
best dresses for the little children.
The tulle is arranged separately over
pale pink or blue slips, and the very
prettiest among them are simple to a
decree-hand tucked, without trimming,
and AS washable as ones handkerchiefs.
Tulle and linen jabOts are as popular
as ever in Paris. They range from the
SIMPLEST possible pleated frll to the
most complicated double lace affairs.
Evening star., 1909-02-14
A Designer S Secret

"HE designer has few little gen
eral rules which she applies. al
Il though 1t is an accepted fact that
She particularizes in the matter of each
gown for the individual patron. 1t goes
without saying that she meets the pa
tron and gets in touch with her ideas.
With half an eye she sees great
many things that she would rathe. not
settings that indicate in the main.
the taste of the aforesaid patron, and
that mostly indicate TO the designer the
particular points she means TO avoid in
the regowning of madame.
Now. the designer has to start some
where, and madame is more attractive
TO her than are the half-worn clothes.
Just here We let out the little secret OF
tire designer. who matches madame.s
eyes for the general color scheme il she
is to appear artistic: but if height is
her ambition. our designer selects the
color Of her hair.
Evening star., 1909-02-14

the reverse has been the case for the
past few years. However. this we are
told.
. sleeves and yokes, and it is embroidered
in all coiors-grcen. blue and white.
1t is said that when the long waist
shall come again. the skirts will be as
wide as they have been narrow in the
past year; indeed. six or seven meters
is predicted as being the average width
round the bottom. 1t is thought that
with the spring opening there will be
a few surprises for the followers OF
la mode. ELOISE
Evening star., 1909-02-14
PARIS, Feb. 6

"A E IDSEASON still refgns on the
MI Rue de Ia Paix. and the great
modistes have as yet failed TO
divulge their secret thoughts In
regard TO the fashions to come. A few
details however, have been brought
forth by enterprising shops. and these
for the moment must suffice to satisfy
the craving of madame for the latest
news.
Echarpes are much I'm vogue; every
woman is wea ring them and they are in
deed very beautiful and charming fin
ish to the average costume. For even
ing wear there are some very pretty
ones to be seen of chiffon embroider-
ed in gold. These echarpes are worn
with gowns contrasting in color. For
instance. with a white dress an orange
scarf would be worn; with pink dress
a mole colored scarf while with pastel
blue a Parma violet is charming
1t is said that steel or head studded
leather will be a novelty of the summer
and that it will be made up into coats.
This ha rdly seems credible: yet we are
we'll acquainted with waisteoats Of
chamois skin.
At the millinery shops the trimmings
Evening star., 1909-02-14

TO! little would-be Chinee! How
Fl you like-ee your new skirt-ee?
l. Il You sit down? No? Hee. hee,
And how on earth the manda-
rim sat down i'll it, and cross-legged at
that. remains mystery Chinese
puzzle. as it were. The American maid
Ell. still undaunted dons the garment III
her boudoir. She congratuates herself
that she need not wear the pandarin's
hat, although the button ox his rank
she would not mind possessing. since 1t
is jewel and not. after all. button.
With her very next imported mandarin
outfit she will demand the sapphire or
the lapis button. regardless of the rank
1t indicates. for what cares an American
maid how great the rank? The higher
the better" says she; so sapphire let
Evening star., 1909-02-14
All the Rage

~ UOTING from a young Japanese
girl. Navy blue is all the rage
IN, Japan" 1t is not in the least
surprising that the remote little island
empire has fashions. although it is to he
doubted If the casual observer would
notice their changes of style. Neither
IS 1t amazing that blue is Indicated
blue is An old-time favorite with the
Japanese-but that Japan has RACES
Is decidedly interesting news.
Evening star., 1909-02-14

~ HESE delightfully."- frivolous az
fairs are lust the sort OF things
tn wedge in while there is still q
sewing chance. and before there
ix .ctual certainty on the subject ol
outer garments. While the 1asn'on
makers are disputing over such oiii'' o''
.,;.res as sleeve models and waist
lines, the home sewer VINO Is
awake to her opportunities VIII IL"
..eomplished q neglige, or even ses'ia'
Hero are the newest frills from PARIS
here things light and airy are SO well
,,,aa-stood that real simplicity Is con-
c.a,ed BY the clever arrangement o.
and washable ribbon-the Frencn Aie
strong ON wash ribbons-and the feso''
IS an elaborate-iooking garment.
rbsse designs may all be used as snort
.o,ue. The first model is particu-
larry happy selection for the haif-lens'h
,ae,iee The standing figure Is pic
,r,e n. smart simplicity in very peie
roe. lawn. with narrow rose rlopoh-
. shades deeper-run through eyeiet
holes.
p,act velvet may be used. but tho
a..,ar tome of ribbon on pale blue ana
rose gowns is distinctly Partisan. ihefs
e nat applique of lace insertion rouno
tho LOW neck and sleeve. 1t Is repeated
~, the bottom of the neglige with
cluster OF tucks. between. The same
,een.rose ribbon Is run through eye
let's to correspond with those on 'he
,,nrsr gown. This negl!ge faiis open
from neck to hem, disclosing a sklte OF
,ba same rose-colored lawn.
TIE seated figure is Eowned in neg
r.. of less simple construction. be-
cause it is made in separate waist ana
sLir. portiops. The bodice part. with
cluster tucks. is folded over the shoni-
der and cut with kimono sleeve. Inc
onened circular skirt is Joined to the
hna;ce under the sirdle. Tucks and lace
extend down each side OF the front. fer
this graceful neglige a creamy french
lace three inches wide is used.
DOTTED AND EYELET SWISS
The third model Is three-ouarter-
,eny.h sacoue made OF dotted swiss and
embroidery, which is set in with e1-
ceedinsly sharp corners to the square
Dutch neck: the little dotted swiss yoke,
which fills in the neck. is just OF size
to admit of worked eyelets run through
with a rose-colored cord ending In tas-
.e,,. This is a new and acceptable touch
for the neglige.
The last gown. Of eyelet swiss. is long
and trimmed with lace and Its insertion.
The neglge is somewhat circular IN CUT
with more fulness falling toward the
lower edge Of sleeve and skirt.
The girdle of soft blue liberty satin
six inches wide is tackled round the front
and crosses at the back. where the neg
,ige fastens. 1t is brought front again
and loosely tied.
THESE French gowns are always hand
made. and therefore exquisite. but. BY
careful basting and fine stitching. the
machine-made garment may almost
equal the original models.
Evening star., 1909-02-14
PUTTING 1T ON

To put on the corset-if you are
stout-the lacers should first be loosened
evenly at the back: the corset should
be hooked up the front and the four
strong elastics fastened to the stock
ings
The bust and underwear should be
slightly lifted from above TO produce
perfect comfort. The first pull on the
lacers Is given at the waist line to adjust
the corset. and then the lacing should
be proceeded with from the corset's low
est edge, as you were told in pre-
ViouS story.
The roll of flesh above and below the
corset has been the cause of much OF
this consideration shown the stout wom-
an She does not want it there. the pub
lie assuredly does not. and the maker
were. indeed. a bad business man to
permit it.
A frequent reason for the overflow
was the too-tight lacing at the top and
lower edges. Since women have been
taught the necessity for looping the
laces. and thus gaining looseness above
ness al the very waist line, the back OF
the stout woman may be smooth and
not distressing.
The length of the new skirted corset
obyiates this trouble of the rolling flesh
below the waist. and the brassiere is the
solution of the same problem across the
back and at the bust line. 1t is n most
necessary addition in the correct cor
setting OF the stout woman. With 50
much effort In her behalf. it is mani
festly a simple matter. after all. Tor
even the very large woman to look her
best
Evening star., 1909-02-14
ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS

The first and foremost thing that
she may not do is to buy her corset
over a counter and alone. She needs
the fitting room and the services OF
a professional: even though she may
not require a made-to order garment.
there exists the necessity to fit the
one she means to buy.
Every stout woman Is OF different
mould. and the multiplicity of corsets
made for her will benefit her not at
all unless her actual measurements
be taken. There are several points
in the construction of the corset in
tended for the stout woman. common
to all of them: an extra fulness
across the back and under the arm.
and a shortness under the arm and
often a shortness of the upper back as
well. Obviously. these allowances at
certain given points prove that she
cannot satisfy herself by the mere
choice OF a larger size in the average
corset.
frequently is-with advice to stout wom
en-, but the most reliable suggestions
come from the 6tting rooms.
1t il now generally held that the pres
ent models for stout women obviate the
necessity for lifting the abdomen; 1t IL
necessary to lift the bust. and some
women draw up the hip to find greater
comfort.
The hip and abdomen are not SO press
ed down and out OF their natural posi-
tion as they were when women left their
corsets laced and squeezed themselves
into yesterdays measurement Most
women have learned to entirely loosen
the. corset on removing 1t.
Evening star., 1909-02-14

TIME gold and silver rose of the win
ter reappears on. the shirred taf-
feta, Spring hat.
Wreaths Of tiny roses surround the
crowBs of some of the new Paris
models.
, One pink or deep-red rose is placed on
the front OF some OF the spring models.
Evening star., 1909-02-14
Our Corset Story
Made for the Stout Woman
Told Each Week by
One Who Knows

WYE ARE constantly told that ths
AN thin woman is having her
innings. Each season regu
larly the slender one is thus
encouraged. and Yet once again 1t Is
hammered into the ears of the woman
who is not so thin that the innings
are not hers.
Certain fashion innings may belong
to the slender woman. but. in point
OF fact. there is very little done for
her to insure her looking less lean
and hungry" whereas there is per-
petual endeavor to create an illusion
round the woman who Is not so sfen-
der.
As to her corseting. I would pro-
claim that the maker has exhausted
every device to secure her comfort
and good looks. did l not believe that
each year he will blossom forth with
some new idea. for he seems bubbling
over with interest in this, his favored
pa atron.
1t Is easier to tell the stout woman
what not to do. The appliances for
everything that she may do in cor
rective way are about her In profusion.
Evening star., 1909-02-14
Roses for Hats

Small. light pink roses are alternated
with forget-me-nots on a late French
creation.
Tight punches of pale pink moss roses
are used on pink straw hat.
When two immense roses appear on
the same hat they are unusually flat in
shape.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-12-10
'CULBERSON DIDN'T
RESIGN AS LEADER

: .WASHINGTON. Dec. with great Sc
robustness. the Democratic members of
the senate. met in caucus yesterday to
elect a successor to Senator Culberson,
who has determined to resign as chair
man of the caucus because of ill-health.'
A tentative program had been arranged
by which Mr. Money, vice chairman, WAS
Ia be elevated to the leadership and was
TO decline because Of Discrimination to
take upon himself such duties because Of
rl-health Senator Bacon was then to be
selected as chairman With this program
agreed upon, Senator culberson's letter
was read to the assenlblage and then i
was discovered that he had not resigned
tine Craftsmanship. but had merely stated
mis- purpose of so doing. '.t
Immediately all the we'll laid plans of
he statesmen were upset and further &C
ton was postponed until definite action
j. taken by the Texas senator.
The caucus elected Thomas w. Kellar.
4 West Virginia, assistant door keeper.
which position is equivalent to Demo-
cratic representative OF the sergeant-at-
arms on the floor of the senate. Mr.. KEEL
Ter has been in the employ of the senate
80 years. ..-
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-12-10
PROMISE. OF EXECUTION
SAVES NEGRO FROM MOB

LOUISVILLE. Dec. .s.--whether the ex-
traOrdinary and violent attendant circum-
stances OF the trial and sentence to death
at Williamstown. KY, yesterday of the
negro Earl Thompson will serve to make
the entire proceedings illegal was a sub
iect OF discussion I'm Kentucky today.
mob which had met Thompson at the
train when he was brought back to Lex
ington to answer a charge of criminal
assault virtually exacted- promise from
circuit Judge -Cammack- that he would
sentence Thompson TO hanging within 30
days ard keep him. meanwhile. in the
Williamstown. jail. Cammack delivered
the pledge from the steps. Within the
court house previously Thompson had
been tried and found guilty while mob
overran the court chamber and a member
Il IL plunged at the negro with a knife!
Thompson entered a strong plea of not
guilty II was after the death sentence
and when the sheriff had rushed Thomp-
son into the jail through a rear way that
the mob surrounded IL and was quieted
only when Judge Csmmack made them
his pledge. Later he fixed the day Of ex-
piation for January T. 1910.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-12-10
VASSAR GIRL, ILL,
BROWNS HRSELF

FISHKILL LANEIf,G, N. Y, Dec. L
The body of Margaret Doherty, Vassar
student who disappeared yesterday, was
found in the cistern of her fathers home
at Hughsonville.
Miss Doherty had been respondent oe-
cause illness had terminated her first
year at Vassar and had nullihed sacri-
fees made by her father. the Rev. Will
liam H. Doherty to send her to that col
lege.
An all-night and day search followed
her disappearance. The cistern top SEEM
ed to have been lifted just enough to
make room for the girls body.
Mr.. Doherty had given up rich charge
in New. Jersey to come to Hughsonville
and enable his daughter to commute daily
to Vassar. ..--L .'..
Miss Doherty was ambitious to make
her first year at Vassar a creditable one.
She knew that her father had abandon
ed a rich parish in New Jersey to &C
cept his small charge i'm Hughsonville ex-
pressly that his daughter might be near
enough to Vassar to commute. Her ambi-
tions, however, outran her strength am
three weeks ago she broke down. The
thought that her indisposition had multi
fed her fathers sacrifices for her SO
preyed on her mind that the family fear
ed she might attempt suicide and tried
to keep close watch on her.
Sunday morning, wher her father was al
church, furnished the chance she sought
Slipping from the house, she disappeared
and the earnest efforts of many search
ing parties failed to find her until late
yesterday. The distracted parents were
/ iuconsolable when the sad news was
broken to them t. .
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-12-10
FELL FROM ENGINE
INTO CREEK BELOW

WINSTON SALEM, n. c., Dec. =
with one side of his head crushed, Engi-
neer William j.. KiSyoun,. of the South
ern railway. is belieyed to be dying in
hospital here. .. -. &.
While en- route from North Wilksboro
with a mixed passenger train this
morning. Engineer Kinyoun got down on
the step of his engine and was looking
under it to investigate a slight trouble.
when his head came in contact with the
beam of an open bridge across Grassy
creek. so miles from this place. The en-
gineer was knocked off and fell Is feet.
Conductor Crews says if he had gone
five feet further he would have drowned
before assistance could have reached him.
local freight nearby was annulled and
the engineer of same brought the mixed
train here with the mortally injured man.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-12-10
EASTBOUND RECORDS
BROKEN BY TRAIN

NEW YORK, Dec. S.-All eastbound
records between New York and Chicago
on the New York Central railroad for
trains carrying passengers were broken
today by the special carrying Samuel
Newhouse, of Salt Lake City, here in
his hurried trip to catch a steamer for
Europe, where his brother is dying.
Approximately the train Travelled the
distance in II hours 30 minutes as against
IS hours, which the Twentieth Century
Limited makes the fastest time on rec
ord eastbound between the two points.
This record was made by the Newhouse
special in spite of the fact that it lost -
minutes by the disablement of an engine
at Hudson N. Y, Had this mishap not
occurred, the train probably would have
made the run In approximately 10 or 10
minutes under II hours. The westbound
record is still held by the Vanderlip spe-
cial which made the run to Chicago on
March % last in 16 hours and min
1tes o. 90
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-12-10
GIVES FARMERS CREDIT
FOR PROBING EXCHAN gle

President Charles S. Barrett, Of tic
Farmers union, believes that the pres
ent government activity against the New
York Cotton exchange, Is directly due to
the fight begun by the farmers last
spring. under the Roosevelt administra-
ton. when the union sent a large. dele
CATION of its most prominent members to
Washington to insist that the New York
exchange be compelled to cease its gam
bling which was beginning TO AFFECT the
greatest industry of the south.
Next month another delegation will go
to Washington. according to President
Barrett, and will force further radical
action. @'~-'
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-12-10
w. H. ENNIS WEDDING
HERE, AN EL0PEMENT

WASHINGTON. Dec. IA pretty ro-
nance and eIopement came TO light here
yesterday when Mr.. and Mrs. William H.
Ennis, OF Rome. registered at the Shore
ham hotel for a couple OF days stay "
washington en- route to New York. The
couple were married at the residence OF
Rev. g r BeIk. in Atlanta, on Sunday.
and left Immediately on the Birmingham
special
Mrs. Ennis was Miss Julia King. daugh-
ter OF ]. c. King. county school commits
sioner Of Floyd county. Mr.. Ennis was
formerly q member OF the state legisla-
fura. and has been prominent in the pol
itics and commercial development OF
Rome he is a well known lawyer. Mr..
Ennis and HIS intended. left Rene last
sunday morning accompanied BY. Miss
Puma Ennis, a sister OF the groom. In
Atlanta they were met by Elmo Ballew,
Mr.. Ennis roommate. and DR.. l. p. Ham
mond- 49, ~ 80
Rev. Mr.. Beik. pastor OF 81. Mark
church. Is a personal friend OF Mr.. En-
MS. whom he had long regarded as a con-
filmed bachelor. He was therefore much
purprised Sunday 70 receive a telephone
cali from Mr.. Ennis. asking IL he would
oHriste at a wedding ceremony. Ihe
minister was delighted. Of course. and the
party went TO the Belk residence. where
the ceremony was performed
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-12-10
THE KING OF SPAIN
HAS CONSUMPTION

/ MADRID. Dec. king Alfonso's COLI
dition is causing extreme anxiety al
court The king is suffering from tu-
bercul5sis affection Of the post-nasal parts
of the inner ear. DR.. Monroe, of Bor-
deaux. has performed three slight opera
tions to check this disease. Now fourth
operation has become necessary and the
queen is much concerned about the re-
suit. in view of the kings weakened con-
oition.
His tubercular condition undoubtedly
was inherited. His father, Alfonso XII,
died of tuberculosis with complications
which are also present In the case oil
Alfonso XIII.
The official gazette announces that the
oueen expects an accouchment in April.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-12-10
ALL is QUIET, SAYS
HAWLEY, OF SWITCHMEN

ST. PAUL. MINI. Dec. 7-"Everythins
Is quiet was the only comment Presi-
dent Hawley, OF the switchmsn's union.
w oald make today on the strike condi-
ton. ----
He continued TO assert that the rail-
roads were tied up. but on the other
hand. the railroads claimed the strike
was broken
r. Secretary J. H. Beck. of the Manufac-
turers. association. said he made an in
vestigation yesterday OF the conditions in
the various railroad yards. and aside
from the trouble caused by the storm
Sunday. found that the railroads were
receiving shipments for practically ali
points.
l.. =. Sheppard. senior vice president
'of the Order OF Railway Conductors. WIN
has been in 81. Paul for a few days. IS
sued an .order last night to all conduc-
tors that they must observe strict neu-
trality and that they should t"act as they
did before the strike, no more, no less
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-12-10
ALABAMA NEWS

HUNTSVILLE, Ala, Dec. 6.-Col. M.
A Clay, of Jackson county, died here
Sunday at midnight, aged S. He was
one fthe wealthiest men in this section.
MONTGOMERY, Ala, Dec. S.-The rail-
road commission today refused to reduce
the rate on coal from Alabama mines to
Admission to so cents to all consumers.
Manufacturers producing outgoing freight
enjoy this rate, but others pay 20.
ADMISSION, Ala. Dec. 8.-Having Sc
cured a contract for 5000 cars from the
KiIby Locomotive and Machine works OF
this city the plant of the Western Steel
and Foundry company of this city. which
has been idle for some time, has been
put in operation. 1t is understood anoth-
er order for 500 cars has also been secur-
ed. The plant gives employment to 1,5O(
men. 81.