davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1909-09-04

those illustrated from broadtail or cara
cul fur cut from the best parts of a dis
carded garment. for the fur is simply
sewed in straight strips to the broad
soft ribbon. A fairly. heavy quality of
ribbon should be selected, for it will not
pay to sew the fur to a cheap and sleazy
quality Fur strips should be cut with
a sharp knife from the wrong side of the
pelt. the point of the knife Sitting the
skin, but not touching the fur itself
which separates readily when the skin
is cut Scissors, however carefully used
are apt to 1njure the fur and leave
!asseo, serasgiy line along the edge of
AS Will be seen in the photograph the
ends OF the menu are caught together un-
DER full bow. with long ends weighted
py taSsels- A similar bow trims one cor
ner OF the mum. These dangling effects
are much In vogue this fall, and tassels
both OF silk and made of fur brushes
will be greatly used
beautiful evening wraps of chiffon show
border trimmings of fur. skunk being
mere again the favorite of the moment
Ihese chiffon wraps with fur bands are
called the marabou style, the light. fluffy
1ur being applied to the chiffon in the
manner OF the marabou strips which
were used on evening scarfs last winter
A superb black chiffon scarf easuring
two yards across and falling to the knee
is shirred into six-inch breadth in the
center of the back and is trimmed all the
way around the edge with fiat bands of
skunk fur. a tiny pleatng of satin rib
bon setting just under the edge of the
fur all around. This ribbon pleatlng adds
a smart finish and makes the sewing of
the fur to the slimpsy chiffon much
easier, for the pleating may first be at
tached to the fur strip and the chiffon
then stitched on from the reverse side
A pelisse and muff for evening wear
over light theater frocks are made of
gray chiffon with a marabou trimming
of smoked fox fur. The chiffon is tuck
ed in deep two-inch tucks and is laid over
soft silk of the same color The long
pelisse fits across the shoulder at the
back. reaching only to the waistline but
in front 1t hangs to the knees, the ends
being gathered together under hug.
gray chiffon choux. This pelisse, as well
as the enormous, soft-peated chiffon
muff, is edged with bands of the feathery
smoked fox fur. This set attracted much
attention in the exhibition Of Paris cos
tunes where it was displayed: and there
is no reason why the model should not
be duplicated at home with brown chif-
fon and mink, or pale pink chiffon and
white fox fur.
Fisher. fur ignored for several sea-
Evening star., 1909-09-04
Greek Effects
Retain Their Popularity

tea the other afternoon showed this scar
let touch in very pleasing manner. The
frock was of thin black stuff-the thinner
wool materials. like cashmere. henrietta
and even albatross, being liked for little
tfotteur dresses to be worn later under
long coats of fur or rough serge.
The black frock referred to was most
simply cut with graceful, semi-clinging
lines, and had a pleated founce set on
below the hips. Over the frock was a
veritable little apron of black satin, the
apron bib extending to the bust line and
around under the arms to the back Of
the belt in soft folds. Below the waist
the apron fell to the knees and the
lower corners extended back and were
tied in a loose knot at the back of the
knees. The feature of the little frock
was the daring touch of vivid red en-
broidery which outlined the shallow open
ing at the neck, and in the opening was
set a tucked red gauze yoke laid over
gold net.
With this chic afternoon tea frock was
worn one of the new Russian huzzar hats,
which the millners dare to call "tur-
bans,' and which, while they tower aloft
in high shake crowns of velvet, at the
same time are jammed so far down over
the head that nothing above the eye
brows and the nape Of the neck Is to be
Evening star., 1909-09-04
FadS for Women.

Summary looking mourning hats sound
rather contradictory perhaps. but some
of the end-of-the- season models are ex-
ceedingly light and airy.
The shape Is on the round hat, or large
sailor order. and is covered fatty with
crepe, either black or white.
A narrow fold Of crepe encircles the
crown and is finished in the front with
large bow of net-fine plain brussels
each looo wired and hemmed with a fold
Of crepe.
The hat must be either all black or all
white-no combination of the two-and
either tone may be worn for first mourn
ing.
The popular Dutch collar has been
brought out in white crepe for mourning
wear, and nothing cooler or daintier look
ing could be imagined as an accessory to
the average mourning toilet.
The collar is cut deep In single goods
and hemmed with a bias fold almost half
the depth of the collar.
The turn-back cuffs match the collar
and are rather deeper than the usual
hemmed lawn weepers
Evening star., 1909-09-04

KHUCH has been heard of the eyes,
IVA the hands and the features as de-
lineators of character. but very little
of the hair in this connection. Though
it is scarcely more than a surmise. it is
said that a jealous disposition and pos
sibly unreliability are denoted by dull
black hair. A person with light hair
is sensitive to criticism and Sights.
Good Judgment and common sense rest
upon the head of the owner Of brown
hair Of a deep color and firm texture.
Though women with red hair have long
been considered impulsive and tactless.
they also possess honesty and sincerity.
. and are usually of bright, sunny dispo-
sition. Straight hair is said to be In
dicative of an obstinate, unyfeld1ng ma
ture It is not worth while to worry
over these things about hair, since one
cannot change them, but, to grow race
tious for minute, it might be well to
remember these points in case you ever
have to purchase a strand or two.
A Monogram on Her Slippers.
ATE fad is the metal monogram at
- tached in buckle effect to the front
of pump or dancing slipper. Some Of
these monograms are quite large. but
the daintiest styles cover no more space
than silver quarter would do, and
the letters are intertwined or SO ar
Evening star., 1909-09-04

seen. The Russian turban matching the
black and red frock was of black velvet
with brim of black beaver, and at the
right side, rising from big jet cabuchon,
were two stiff brush aigrettes, one black,
the other scarlet.
The most important part of the res
taurant dress-as an Irishrnan might put
it's the hat. An authoritative 5th
avenue milliner insists that the hat Is
the expression and Interpretation of the
gown, and can make or mar 1t. Some of
the plume-laden chapeaux which one sees
at the height of the season in the fash
ionable dining places are gorgeous affairs.
many OF them running into hundreds of
dollars. This may take the breath away
from the unextravagant woman. who is
accustomed to pay up to and not over
a modest SO for her very best winter
bonnet, but it is fact that many New
York milliners are now asking, without
qualm of self-reproach, 500, and even
$500 for their creations. Indeed. fifty
dollar hat Is quite a simple affair-very
probably modest turban shape, deco
rated with an aigrette and a buckle, and
intended solely for shopping use of
morning.
One milliner, claiming to appeal to pop
ular rather than very exclusive pat
ronage, showed a list Of twenty hats
ordered in one morning by a well known
society woman, the total at the foot of
the list amounting to over $1,000. One
shudders to think what the ordinary pater
Evening star., 1909-09-04

rldis, even airy cnlHOnS oeiHS uScu 4AA
combination with the heavy pelts
These fur and fabric combinations Will
offer many suggestions to women who are
planning TO use half-worn furs as trim
ming on other garments this winter. Fur
borders will be very fashionable on long
coats of wool materials. and Paris is
bringing out some stunning models OF
broadcloth and cheviot. with border trim
mings of long-haired fur. green chew
lot topcoat designed by Bernhard for a
French actress Is absolutely simple in
line, defining the figure slightly at the
waist and flaring trif1e toward the foot
The only trimming besides the broad band
OF skunk fur which borders the garment
all around is in the huge buttons of
shaded green enamel set in black wood
rims.
Skunk has been lifted to first place In
winter popularity. and the skin OF the
Evening star., 1909-09-04

undersleeves. also Of cream lace. The
striking feature of this pretty frock was
the border trimming of warp printed
ribbon. in voilet, plum and pale pink and
yellow shades. which edged the over
skirt drapery and crossed the bodice just
at the bust line. The hat-for of course
a hat to match accompanies every res
taurant frock designed by a Partisan
couturier-was a wide-brimmed Charlotte
model, of violet beaver felt, with a folded
band of velvet around the crown and
the back of the brim turned up sharply
and caught with a cockade of pleated
moire silk. also in the violet color. This
violet frock, by the way, was short
enough to show a pair of little suede
pumps and silk stockings.
Possibly as a relief from the eternal
black and white combinations. red prom
ises to be prime favorite; not an elu-
sive berry or fruit red. either, but an
unequivocal, frank scarlet, which flames
forth in vivid note of color on sonber
frocks. This dashing touch of scarlet
has been introduced by the couturiers
in embroideries. pipings and even in
yokes and guimpes of tucked chiffon and
net. A stunning frock worn by Young
woman who dropped In at the Plaza for
Evening star., 1909-09-04

straight soles minus the Swing" at the
side, which makes American shoes so
smart and shapely. Foreign singers
coming from France and Italy wear
these long pointed shoes, but soon dis
card them for the more attractive
American sort. Now the queer. long
toed French shoes are coming into style
again and some of the new models have
vamps twice as long as the pumps
which have been worn this summer.
A Pretty Way to Trim Lingerie.
7 ACE butterflies. which may be pur-
II chased in motif form, make charm
ing trimmings for chemises. night
gowns and other lingerie garments.
After the butterfly is applied to the
nainsook sheer batiste the material
is cut away underneath, a fold being
turned back along the edge of the pat
tern and run with hand stitches to
stay the work. A simple batiste cor
set cover edged at the top with lace
Evening star., 1909-09-04
familias. earning an ordinary salary,
might say If confronted with that bill.

familias. earning an ordinary salary,
might say If confronted with that BILL
X
Round rolls the funny old wheel of
fashion and back we come to overskirts
once more. Not q bit of doubt that they
ara here. Not only the Partisan costumes
designed for, or, at least. consecrated
to, particular occasions, but the humble
separate skirts for rainy day use with a
rancoat show tunicS and overdraperles
of some sort or other.
One welcomes the return OF the over
skirt, which is always most graceful in
effect The prettiest style so far seems
to be that of shaped tunic, falling fiat
ly over the hips-for, mind you. the
dressmakers have not fought to a finish
for hiplessness to relinquish 1t now-and
showing a Killed skirt below. Some
times wool skirts have these tunics cut
in long points, which are finished with
hens of dark silk. the tunic fastening at
one side of the front under row of large
fancy buttons.
Several graceful overskirt draperies are
illustrated, and it will be noted that
some of them show the new panniers or
hip draperies. Panniers, of course, are
a distinct feature of the Louis XIV and
XVI styles, now being revived by the
couturiers. and panniers. Vatican pleats
and pointed bodices all promise to be
important style developments of the COM
ing season. The pannier, at any rate.
has come to town. but 1t is new and
much subdued pannier, which its ances-
tress of the eighteenth century would
never recognize, for. while indisputably
a hip drapery, 1t puffs out not whit in
the place where a pannier is supposed to
be puffy, but falls Imply in Greek-like
folds, leaving the outline of the slender,
sloping hip quite unspoiled.
One of the panniered gowns shown is
of shell pink crepe, the hip drapery OPEN
ing over a petticoat of pink chiffon.
Down the center front is an embroid-
cred panel in faint pink shades, and this
embroidery is repeated on the sleeves.
In the decolletage is .'modesty tucker"
as our grandmas called it, of rich en-
broidery, showing rose and cora! tints.
The hat accompanying this frock, de-
signed for restaurant and theater wear,
is a big shape covered with shell pink
moire silk, and heaped with pale pink
plumeS.
There is fad for tunics of sheer ma
terial, over gowns of wool satin, and
some of these sheer tunics are elaborate
ly beaded or studded with steel nailheads.
One of these steel-studded tunics is
shown the tunic being lifted into modi-
fled pannier drapery below the hips. The
glittering, stee-sprinkled gauZe tunic fits
the figure rather closely over a gown of
black satin, and the hat repeats the steel
Evening star., 1909-09-04

means something more dressy than the
simple princess dress worn in the street,
yet less formal than the impressive grand
toilet which will be donned for the opera
or important social functions later in
the season. majority of the women
at Auteuil on Drag day wore skirts In
trotteur length, even when the general
style Of costume was quite elaborate, and
while American women have been pains
takingly holding up bothersome trailing
petticoats all summer. the happy Parish
enne in most cases has tripped blithely
about in skirts that showed her silk-clad
ankles.
This Partisan fancy for short skirts is
having an inevitable effect on fall fash
ions in America, and, though the long
gowns, there are many charming frocks
that escape the carpet by an inch or more
all around.
An October bride-to-be dining at Sher-
rvs with her mother and fiance the other
evening. had on delightful little frock
Of violet crepe meteor made in the new
adapted Louis fashion, with panniered
overdrapery falling over killed skirt.
and little round bodice, separated from
the skirt portion by a crushed girdle
at the natural waistlne-a decided inno-
vation after the heights of directore
and the depths of Moyen-age waistlines.
The bodice was cut out in shallow
circle to show a yoke of old cream lace
and loose upper sleeve, cut in one with
the bodice, which fell over cose-fitting
Evening star., 1909-09-04
Fashion Notes and Novelties.

and beading is made very elaborate in
effect by three pretty lace motifs, one
across the back and one set at either
side of the front.
A New Camping Device.
NOT everybody that goes camping
y can enjoy the luxury of a tent all
to himself, but the owner of the new
canopied cot may pitch his tent in any
vast wilderness and feel that he has
his sleeping quarters all to himself.l
Over an ordinary spring cot is erected
a coZy tent top of stout khaki-colored
canvas. No room for snakes to crawl
in between the tent flap and the mat
tress. and four handy tent windows ar
ranged at north. east, south ana west
so that one may pop gun In any d.
rection from which a coyote howls. The
tent bed folds up conveniently into
small compass.
Evening star., 1909-09-04
More Luxury for the Bather.

THOSE who enjoy a dip in the surf
have been carefully thought of by
the enterprising manufacturers. Not only
are there delectable suits with parasols
hats, shoes and reticule to match, but one
may also possess a convenient bathing
suit case, smart and trim to look at be-
cause of it's leather cover, brass locks and
we'll made handle, and inside fitted with
various pockets for the disposal of
small belongings. Lining and pockets
are, of course, of rubber, and there is
space for the suit and it's accessories,
and separate rubber compartment to
keep brushes. cosmetics and other toilet
belongings dry and in good condition.
The Long-Vamped Shoe Returning.
EVERYBODY knows how hard it is
Il to buy pretty shoes in Paris. All
the shoes sold on the continent have
queer, long toes, with old-fashioned
Evening star., 1909-09-04

and black effect. being of dark gray felt,
with a darker gray velvet band, caughe
by steel cabuchon, and a mass or
plumes in cold blue shades.
Another style Of drapery which Is at
tracing considerable attention by reason
of its odd name is the washerwoman or
fshmonger skirt. The eccentricity of the
style Is, however mainly in the name,
for the skirt itself is really very grace
full, and not at all suggestive of either
fishmonger or washerwoman. An over
skirt coming to the knees is turned back
to show petticoat which just escapes
the floor, and there are several ways or
expressing the new skirt. Sometimes the
drapery is of material contrasting with
the skirt; sometimes drapery and skirt
are alike, while the turned-back portion
is faced with silk or satin. One clever
laveuse costume has the turned-up por-
tion cut out in tabs, which are caught
to the drapery by jet buttons, soft
satin sash, running beneath the tabs be-
ing knotted across the back breadth at
the height of the knees.
Another dinner dress which may be
worn for home as well as restaurant BAN
quets is a Paquin model expressing the
revived Louis XVI mode. In this gown
the shirred petticoat attached to a point
ed bodice. the sleeve opening over an
undersleeve of contrasting material, the
very low decolletage eked out with net
tucker, are all significant style features
which have meaning for the Sartorlally
elect This costume has aroused much
interest, both in Paris and America, as
the style is SO directly opposed to every
thing that has prevailed in fashion Of
late.
Evening star., 1909-09-04

points are edged all around with skunk
fur, and the effect is very rich and lux
urious.
A new muff and shoulder piece made
of broadtail, combined with blacn satin
ribbon are illustrated today. The shoul-
der piece in this set is in the new fchu
shape. brought in with the Louis modes
which are making headway in Paris
now. These fur fichus are gay affairs.
with rosettes and dangling ribbons and
tassels, and the muffs are very large
and it will be noted much rounder and
fuller than the very fiat effects of last
season. 1t should net be difficult task
10 eontrive pretty fichu and mun like
Evening star., 1909-09-04
SN@

Country life is enjoyed later and later
each season, for the golden yellow days
OF the year are so ideal when spent out
Of doors and so enervating when the for
malities and conventions of urban life
must be maintained that those who own
country houses-or are lucky enough to
have invitations to country houses-put
off as long as possible the definite return
to an indoor life. There are many
luncheon and tea parties, however, when
the country house folk drop into town
for consultation with tailors and modiste
and often If the city house is closed up
stay of several days is made at one
of the fashionable hotels, ito take in q
few plays and do a bit of shopping"
Thus the alert observer who keeps an eve
out for new ideas picks up many a hint
from Paris frocks only just out of their
boxes and aired for the first time in
the little restaurant dinner or tea
These restaurant-and by the same
token-theater frocks, are what the
French woman calls demitoilets, which
Evening star., 1909-09-04
&ZzZZ /Zz2s|@< <aB
~N01zz ZS/EzfzECZS{o

desplsed little animal is really very soft,
long and beautiful. Even sealskin coats
are trimmed with skunk borders. Skunk
is used also with Persian lamb. For
mum and collar sets one very handsome
set of Persian lamb showing a sort of
cape with deep points hanging at back
and front and a huge mufr with three
points along the lower edge These
Evening star., 1909-09-04

HILE the fur muff
matched by a hand
some scarf trimmed
with brushes and
paws will always
be fashionable be-
cause of the COM
fort and richness
of such a set over
a cloth suit, there
is a fad this season
for fur combined
with other mate
Evening star., 1909-09-04


sons. is to be the fashionable pelt this
winter. and very rich scarfs and muffs
are being shown at early openings. Even
the graceful pointed foxes, set in fash
IONS highest place of favor last winter.
VIII not be as smart this season as fish
er which is dark brown fur of very
silky, rich texture
NUNS are to be much rounder, the fiat
rug muff having reachel its climax of
smaftness last season. Rug muffs will
De seen; for, of course, women who pos
sess costly furs do not throw them aside
ior every passing whim of fashion; but
the muf of the moment Is the big "cub
bear. made of bushy young bear pelt
and perfectly round in shape.
The sleeve which is series of tucks or
folds all the way down from shoulder to
hand and untrimmed is one of the good
models, as well liked for wash fabrics as
for silks.
Do not wear guimpes. net yokes or
chiffon frills.
Evening star., 1909-09-04
CHARACTER IN THE HAIR.

ranged that round or oval shape is
given the monogram. Gilt, dull silver.
gun metal and bronze monograms are
all used. and usually the ornament is
applied on fiat pump bow of ribbon.
Evening star., 1909-09-04
Dressy Frocks in Trot-
teur urLength--A Touch
Of Red is Dashing--
The Two-Hundred-
Dollar Restaurant
Hat--Dinner Gowns
Continue to Show
Greek Effects.

ONG before the big
dressmakers a n :
nounce their exhib-
its of Paris gowns
and wraps for fan
authoritative hints
of what Is to be
are apparent at the
fashionable dining
places and tearooms
where smart folk
congregate on their
return to town.
Evening star., 1909-09-04

Though directoire effects died a hard
death. they have really passed at last into
a blessed oblivion, and only few mem
ories remain to tell of their reign. An
awakened appreciation for the beauty OF
pure Greek effects is one of the happy
results of the drectoire revival and
many of the new Paris evening frockS
for fall show notifications of the Greek
types. A Greek drapery of chiffon over
embroidered satin makes a gown of SUI
perb beauty. illustrated today. This satin
gown was first sent to Japan. -.here the
marvellous fiat embroidery was done; the
model was then built in Paris, and gown
and hat were sent to America to a dark
haired young matron. who will wear it
at the opera this winter. The costume is
in pale yelow-a color that will be ex-
tremely fashionable this season-and the
Greek Wall-of-Troy embroidery on the
drapery is in shadow work. which makes
the pattern stand out in strong relief
against the gold threads which form the
design The hat is loaded down with
tawny yellow plumes.
The Spokane press. [volume] (Spokane, Wash.) 1902-1939, 1909-06-02
FIERY FOURTH
SUITS COUNCIL

Fearful that some of the store
keepers might lose a few dollars
through suppressing the sale of
cannon crackers, giant crackers
and bombs for the Fourth of July.
the city council last night ignored
the prayer of the mother whose
son had part of one hand shot
away, the request of the chief of
police and petitions from different
sources asking that the ordinance
be passed, and pigeonholed it for
the present.
After some maudlin patriotism
was injected into the consideration
of the question by skyrocket
speeches by Councilmen Mohr and
DaIke, Councilman Funk suggested
that the commercial loss that
might be entailed was more de-
serving of consideration at this
time than the probability of loss of
life or MANNED bodies.
Councilman Funks plea for the
commercial interests gave the
council the desired opportunity
and the effort to regulate the sale
and use of high explosives on the
Fourth was killed for the time
being.
There were two ordinances. one
covering the sale and manufacture
of fireworks, which was rather
stringent in its provisions, and the
other covering the discharge of the
larger explosives in the city. The
first ordinance was killed on the
suggestion of Councilman Schiller,
who thought it was too drastic in
its provisions, and the second was
shelved at the request of Mr.. Funk.
Councilman Peter Nelson made
a plea for the better regulation of
the handling of explosives ON the
Fourth, and told of how a neigh
boris house near where he lived
was almost wrecked by a bomb on
the Fourth of July. on the pretext
by the offender that he was help.
ing to observe the national holiday