davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29
"0 HERE come times when it
seems necessary to concentrate
the mind on the fact that good

IL dressing is largely an individ-
ual matter With any radical change III
Stylc-outlmc (silhoucttc, the French
people aptly call it) it is well to con-
slider your 6gurc-takc a personal stock
account, as II werc-realiZIng the good
lines which must be retained and any
undesirable features that may be dis
guiscd or improved The beginning OF
the spring season was bcset with rumorS
that were most disqmetlng, proclaimlng
the vogue OF the extreme and impossible.
Ii really was not worth while to fret
over the matter. for good sense, like
truth, is mighty and must prevail. When
we arc threatened with the loss of the
waist-linc, the time for serious consid-
Grafton has come
As a matter of fact, the spring styles
arc cause for sclf-congratulaton. partly
because less material is required in the
making, and the combinations OF mate
rials afford the most satisfactory condi-
tions for rcmodcling The vogue Of the
separate coat is another feature that will
apncal for many reasons. The costume
with skirt and waist corresponding or
cut IN princess. or united by the girdlc
that makes the princess effect, appeals
especially strongly to the woman of ma
turc years, TO whom the separate waist
always seemed lacking i'll dignity
Important Accessories
1t is in the accessories OF costume
that many novelties are presented this
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29
A ROW OF BRIDAL SLIPPERS

with silk tasscl The other girdle was
made of white satin and is intended. Of
course, for evening wear. The bias
girdle portion is shirrcd over cords that
cross its width at spaces OF about five
inches, and tackled to the foundation
The sash is draped high on the right
side of the girdlc and knotted to fall
loosely over the skirt OIL the left side
There arc two smaller features i'll this
girdlc that arc of interest One is the
ball tasscls knotted from satin covered
cord. and the other is the large SATIN
covered button that apparently secures
the sash TO the girdle Both are strong
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29
g 9 Gr1AsLE~g D%2V~-1T5 E1~ait2r@.
THE 4ITT4E THINGS In DRESS

has this finish, and in the arrangement
OF the sash is no inconsiderablc part of
the gowns effect 1t becomes in some
cases practically drapcry. OF a num-
Der shown at Fifth Avenue shop re-
Gently two were studied as representative
specimens,
The simpler of the two was made of
black ribbon velvet Several rows (ac-
cording 10 the width of the girdlc) arc
laid i'll plalts and tackled 10 the boned
foundation. Two ends. of unequal
length, arc then tackled at the left side
under a loose knot of the ribbon The
ends arc gathered together and finished
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29

in a plated frill of ribbon or silk. The
buttons arc quite large and as a trim
ming have something OF medallion
effect
Fringes. ,assels and pendant orna-
mcnts of all sorts, when judiciously
used, are good Satin-coyered cord IS
used in much the same manner. as braid,
which it frequently replaces. What is
called a homemade look, applied as a
term OF disapprobation to gown, may,
in quite another sense OF the word, be
applied to most.atttactivc trimmings and
ornaments There certainly must be
originality to commend the ornamental
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29

be avoided. If all-black mourning pre-
cludeS a white finish. the Inc must be
softened by using a transparent material.
Though there is, perhaps not quite an
equal variety of ready-msie ruchings in
black, it is not dilhcolt matter to make
lust what one wants, and the home
laundering qualities Of cravenettcd
crepe and yelling should be remembered.
OF course, the dullcst of black gros-grain
ribbon or silk must be used for the
girdlc Of such dresses, though ordinarily
satin is preferred it is, by the way,
something of satin year. 1t is made
nn into entire GOWNS. and in wooden
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29

band with 4 narrow
plating OF lawn or
fnc linen at the upper
edge and a wide
plating at the lower,
is immensely becom-
ing to a young face
I hesc arc called nuns
collars, The lower
plating may deepen
INTO a point at the
front and is at least
four inches deep at
the sides and back.
Deep lace frills al the
WllSl dIc revived LOT
both dress and coat
sleeves a fashion that
should be welcomed
for its good effect on
the hand
Naturally, their use
in the latter case will
be confined to fancy
coats; ; they would be
rather out of place in
sleeves OF a severely
PLAIN tailored coat.
These severely plain
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29
A ROSE -COLORED BROADCLOTH SUIT,
SHOWING THE NEW COLLAR

season. and they all have distinctive
bearing on up-to-datc dress One might
almost consider them of greater impor-
tance than the gown itself Neck and
waist dressings show the greatest nov
elites ruchcs of every description would
seem to permit a choice for everyone,
though they are best suited to slender
nccks and faces; wide ruchc especially
has tendency to impart TO full face
a cuo-and-saucer effect that is not en-
tircly pleasing
Neck dressing that shall be becoming
is a trying problem to the posscssor OF
a short. plump neck The collar Should
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29
ONE OF THE NEW BLOUSES
RECENT DESIGNS IN HAIR ORNAMENTS

calcd-promises to become very popu-
lar A black gown has distinct value
and a place i'll every wardrobe, even
when light colors are preferred
There is prcJudiced idea that black
is unbecoming to a woman OF advanc-
ing years, but there is really no founda-
ton for this notion, quite The contrary:
in fact No matter what the color OF
the gown. its treatment at the neck dc
tcrmines its effect upon the face. That
is why the chcmisctte and small yokes
OF lace or soft white chiffon have cstab-
lishcd themselves so firmly, and the
ncwcSt neck pieces show an increased
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29

likely to play a prominent part in dress
this spring and summer Many OF the
floral effects are exquisite. Some wide
sash ribbons show these rich blossoms
on background of woven gold threads.
This savors rather too much of pant
ing the lily; the flowers in delicate CO...
ors on white or lightly tinted ground
seem in better taste.
The girdlc is tackled to its foundation
and the bow ard ends tackled in place,
the fastening being made by hooks and
eyes. A sash prepared in this way will
last many times as long as one that is
drawn about the waist and tied.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29

ton that is designed and made for each
gown Individually.
Harmony tho Secret of Effectiveness
In gathering together the materials
for a gown, harmony, not contrast, is
the idea to bear in mind While differ
cnt tones of one color may be employed
to advantage. no second color enters
the composition this season, except in
tinicst touches in the trimmings. In
the matter Of favoritc colors, darker
shades have the preference, and black,
either alone or IN combination with
white "MaCpIe combination" 1t is
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29
TASTE IN THE ACCESSORIES
THE MARK OF DISTINCTION

be carefully fitted and as close at the
sides as possible, and when, as now,
fashion demands ruchc finish, IT should
be narrow and fiat For the woman with
a slender neck there arc many fasclnat-
ing neck pieces, and practically all of
them may be produced al home.
A lace band with a ruchc on both
edges is a fayoritc form, and a linen
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29
GIRDLES & BUTTONS AMONG
THE SEASONS NOVELTIES

quantity of lace and other white stuff
IN their making.
Black gowning generally has the dual
advantage OF distinction and economy
The wcll-planned black gown will look
well for every occasion. yet not insist
emily proclaim itself as a color may
No matter what the gowns color may
be, hard lines at lace and hands are to
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29

out in quantities, one oil the best Things
to stimulate the scalp and provoke
growth of hair is the tincture OF can
tharideS.
Valuo OF Cantharides
Used in full strength, it would prob
ably blister most scalps. 10 avoid this
it should be diluted with water TO hall
or third of its strength. 1t is not pos
siblc to give definite directions. as Tho
tenderness of the scalp varies so greatly
with different people, but it should be
used as strong as one can without bills
tcring.
1t should be applied to the roots oi
the hair every day or every other day
according to the effect of the application
Ii the scalp is very red and irritated
one should wait before making another
application 1t is better to use it,in this
way by itself than to add IT. as is sc
often done, to the hair tonics, for then
the strength can be regulated as well as
the length OF time of its use,
Castor OIL
Castor oil is often recommended Tor
hair-tonics or Incorporated IN them. II
is no better than the oily substances al
ready mentioned, and its odor makes it
unpleasant
| In those cases where the hair is, fall
ing alarmingly, shaving the scalp is re-
sorted to, and undoubtedly with much
benefit. The hair is shaved several times,
or until marked improvement is shown,
before it is allowed to grow again.
The annoyance of wig or wearing a
cap is very great. the head becomes
heated. and it is a fact that the hair
should be exposed freely to the air.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29

Brushing the hair is of little benefit.
and sometimes is quite the contrary, as II
drags the hair out 1t is much better to
use the finger tips i'll the manner de-
scribcd. 1t is supposed that badness is
due to microbes. which can be carried
from one head TO another by means of
combs, brushes and by the fingers of
those who make profession of giving
scalp massage. All combs and brushes
should be kept scrupulously clean. One
should always take her own when going
to hair dresser.
Using Hair Tonics
What is Il good hair tonic7 The selec-
ton of anything to be applied TO the
scalp for the benefit OF the hair requires
judgment If the hair is oily and sticky
it does not need more grease, but rather
something Of driving nature, such as
has a good deal OF alcohol in it. The
quininc hair tonics are good for such
cases. If the hair is dry and feels dead.
the crying need is grease,
Crude yellow vaseline is much used
for this purpose, A little is taken on the
finger and rubbed into the roots. This
prevents the mass of hair from getting
sticky. A good way to apply grease is
to use the oil cans used for sewing ma
chimes. The yaseline has to be made
thin by beating oil into it. Almond oil
or olive oil can be used for this purpose.
Lanolin is also used for the roots of the
hair mixed with vaseline and oil. 1t is
too sticky to be used by itself.
The long nozzle of the oil can makes
the application Of the oily mixture to the
roots of the hair easier. as it can be in
troduced TO the scalp and the oil reaches
the roots without oiling the hair itself.
If the scalp is white and the roots Of the
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29

coats, scmi-6tting and neatly tailored,
are by no means driven out by the
moro elaborate models. with trimmings.
reyers and even sashcs This plain
coat has made place of its own, even
in Paris, where it is known as the
American coat"
Tho Coming In of tho Girdlc
1t IS the girdlc with sash ends that
will be most gladly received of all the
newer accessories, and its use will go 4
long way toward Transforming a last
seasons gown. Almost every gown
turned out by 4 frSt-class dressmaker
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29

goods those with satin finish are most
popular.
sashes for Kisncs' Dresses
Sashes for misses dresses require the
boncd girdlc support for the benefit Of
the beautiful ribbons that are used Tie
douoling-over, stringy process would
mean too great sacrifice. Ribbons are
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29

the scalp with the shampoo mixture.
his is a good way to remove dandruff,
and the action Of the brush on the scalp
stimulates the circulation
After having gone thus thoroughly
over the scalp, wash the ends OF the
hair with the shampoo mixture and then
rinse the soap out of the hair thoroughly
with hot water, afterwards using colder
water. until at last 1t is quite cold The
action OF FIRST the very hot water and
then the very cold is good to stimulate
the blood-vcssels.
Dry the hair as quickly and thoroughly
as possible, so as not to take cold. Dry
it near the register, heater or fire, and
hasten the process with hot towels, or
the use Of paln-lcaf fans
Massage
| am asked about massage of the scalp
and how one can apply it. While the
shampooing can be done by oneself, it
is much plcasanter to have it performed
by someone else The same is true of
scalp massage; but then il will not be
done sufficiently often to be of much
practical benefit II you do it every time
you comb your hair, you will obtain
some results from 1T. IL you live IN A
large city where such things arc done,
IT is well to take treatment or two in
order to better understand the process.
You should use the tips of the fingers,
the pulps, so to speak. of each hand.
applying them first as close as possible
to the scalp, then with circular motion.
while still pressing firmly on the scalp,
go over the entire scalp, so that the
blood will DE brought to the roots of
the hair. Superficial rubbing docs no
good, and is apt to rub the hair out by
the roots
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29
suttono Feature of the Coming styleo

Buttons grow rather than decrease i'll
favor and are used alike OH waists,
skirts or coats. The wooden mold is
the usual foundation, though if diff
fercnt shape a square, for instance) is
wanted. the foundation may be cut from
stiff cardboard The round shape is
most popular and is well liked framed
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29

trimming features apart from their as
sociation with the sash. Tasscls and
pendants of all kinds are used made OF
silk. cord, braid, or. as i'll this case, the
material of the garment.
The Ogden standard. [volume] (Ogden City, Utah) 1902-1910, 1909-05-29

hair seem dead, and the hair is falling
out in quantities, one OF the best things
to stimulate the scalp and provoke
growth of hair is the tIncture OF can
tharldeS.
The Washington times., 1909-12-01
TAFT IS KNUCKLED
DOWN TO MESSAGE
Too Busy to See Callers.
Cannon Among Dis
appointed.

While there were plenty of callers at
the White House. distinguished and 9TH
ervylse. this morning, none Of them were
treated TO a sight Of the President.
Mr.. Taft did not come to the ezecu-
tive Offices. but ,,loseted himself in the
White House, busily engaged on his
message to Congress. The callers were
all received by Secretary Carpenter and
they tarried but a few minutes. Be
cause Of the fac, that the President de-
voted himself wholly TO his message
those appointments that were expected
to be announced today were held up.
Early among the callers was Speaker
Cannon, but not even he was permitted
TO interrupt the Presidential labors
Whatever business the Speaker had in
tended TO transact he kept TO himself
Il only wanted to pay my respects e
the President" said the Speaker as h'
climbed into a waiting automobile viii
Representative Dwight Of New York
Asked about the report that he intended
to resign. the Speaker only raised
/ finger heavenward. and smiled the IA
nous Cannon smile.
The Washington times., 1909-12-01
HARRIS SENTENCED
TO SERVE 25 YEARS
Judge Imposes Maximum
Term-RebukeS Prisoner
foT Non-Repentance.

ROCKVILLE, Nd, Dec. 1-Oliver II
Harris appeared in court this morning
and was sentenced to twenty-five years
In the penitentiary for the murder Of
John Henson Poole and the murderous
assault OF his aunt. Mrs. Clara Harris.
He was convicted OF murder In the
second degree last week and pleaded
guilty today 10 the assault upon his
aunt. The killing occurred last July and
the assault a few days later.
OF this sentence eighteen years was
imposed for the killing and seven years
for the assault. Sheriff George w. Nil
ligan will take Harris to the penitentiary
at Baltimore tomorrow morning at II
O'Clock.
Harris was brought into court at 1l:E
I by Sheriff Milligan and arraigned befor,
Judge James B. Henderson. who had
presided at the trial Harris immcdi
ately pleaded Guilty"
Before passing sentence The judge re
buked Harris for his conduct and tn,
/ fact THAI he bad not given any ndica
| ton Of repentance.
THE only reason that i can conceiv
/ Of" said the judge, that would hav
/ lmpelled the jury 70 return a verde
Of guilty Of murder in the second degre
| IS that they wished 90 temper justic
Z with mercy.
/ In sentencing you for this crime
must take into consideration your atti
I tude since arrest, and the fact that yo
have apparently experienced no contri
, tion and made no effort at pcuance'
/ The Judge was more deeply affecte-
] by the proceedings than Harris. VIII
appeared thankful that matters wer
not worse for him.
! In the assault case Judge Henderso
/ said that Harris had showed his frs
evidence Of repentance when he pleade
guilty A term of seven years in In
penitentiary, IL 20 begin after the com
pletiOn Of the term for murder. was i'm
posed
as he left the court room in custody G
the sheriff
The Washington times., 1909-12-01
Department Hears That
Nicaraguan Will With
draw From Office.
DEFINITE POLICY
WILL BE SETTLED
Envoy to Troubled Country Will
Have Full Understanding
as to Future.

The possibility that President Zelaya
may turn over the government Of Mica
ragua to his minister general, Irias. was
reported in a dispatch received at the
state Department today from Bluefields.
The indications are that he may not
walt for Congress to take action. 1t is
interpreted as further evidence Zelaya
IS convinced that he has lost his hold
and is seeking a way out Of the country.
The State Department has not as yet
been informed Of the arrival OF Pedro
Gonzales. who is said TO be an emissary
Of President Zelaya for the purpose OF
explaining the execution OF the two
Americans. He was in Washington 9
short time ago on a special mission for
settling the Emery claim. His task vii
probably be a fruitless one, as the State
Department viii not receive him If ht
is not properly accredited and In view
Of the fact the reception Of the present
Nicaraguan minister has been definitely
postponed IL is safe to assume Con.
zales VIII not be given audience.
Further developments in the situation
are expected when Horace G. Knowles
the new minister 70 Nicaragua, has the
/ conference with Secretary Knox fol
which he has been called TO Washing
ton It is expected in most quarter,
4 that Secretary Knox win. al this con
/ ference. decide upon a permanent polio,
/ TO be carried out, and this will be mad,
known TO the diplomatic representative
I Of the Central American republics II
/ Washington.
The Washington times., 1909-12-01
EXPLOSION BLOWS
MAN INTO ATOMS
Windows of Cameron, Pa, Broken
and Horses Killed Shock Felt
twenty-five Miles.
twenty-five Miles.

CAMERON, w. Va. Dec. l.-C. A.
Shuster. an oil shooter, was blown 10
atoms, every window !n Cameron was
broken and houses loosened from their
foundations when the nitro-gIycerine
magazine Of the Marietta Torpedo Com
pany, "a half mile east of here. blew up
today.
Shuster's team Of horses and wagon
was also blown 20 pieces One Of the
horses shoes fell in the center of town
and the wagon tongue was found a mile
from the explosion.
Reports from Washington, Pa. TWEEN
ty-hVe miles away, say that the shock
OF the explosion was felt there.
The Washington times., 1909-12-01
APARTMENT LEASE
CAUSE OF TROUBLE

Proceedings for an injunction ana can
collation. OF a lease have been instituted
nv Ruth c. Tueston and Laura z Tile
sion against Thomas H Ptck1ord ana
George Pippard. Through Attorney VII
ton ]. Lambert. the complainants say
In December, 1908, they rented the en-
tire second floor and dining room and
kitchen upon the seventh nOo- in the
Toronto apartment house, f-om Mr..
Pickford; that their lease ran for one
year. with a privilege OF renewal for
another. year. expiring in 1910, at the
same rental. That Notwithstanding
the fact that they gave a notice Of an
election 20 renew FOR the additional year.
ID is charged, the defendant Picktord
entered into an agreement with the de-
fendant Pippard to lease to him the
dining room and kitchen from Decem-
Der, 1910. 20 December, 1Sh.
The Washington times., 1909-12-01
MGR. FALCONIO
TO OLEAD EXERCISES
Apostolic Delegate Will Preside at
Opening of St. Roses
School

St. Roses new technical school viii
be formally opened Friday afternoon
at 3 O'Clock. Mgr. FalconiO, apostolic
delegate. Will preside at the house
warming. lie viii be accompanied By
Mgr. Mackin.
A Marine Band sextet will play in
the reception hall at o'clock, and al
there will be a song recital by Miss
Helen Arnold Netueton.
Saturday at 8, the Fort Myer Band
will play, and a piano recital by Mrs
Randolph win be given at 4. Washing
ton society women viii have chaFSt
Of the tea room the flower stall, and
the various other booths, during the
houscwarming days
The Washington times., 1909-12-01
Battle Is Imminent

COLON. Panama, Dec. Wireless
messages received today from Blue
fields, Nicaragua, say General Matuty.
commanding a large force of revoIu-
tionists, is preparing 20 sxain attack
the forces OF President ZeIaya. hoping
to follow up the advantage gained IN
Mondays fierce battle with g, sweeping
victory.
Matutys > army, which lost but twenty
men IN Mondays fighting above Rama,
IS being constantly auT1uaBted. arii sev.
The Washington times., 1909-12-01
AGED WOMAN HEIR
TO HALLOCK ESTATE
Mrs. Harriet Danenhower Will
Share in Long Island Property
Worth Millions.

CAMDEN. y. J., Dec Mrs. Harriet
14aelav 0anenhOwer. about sixty years
old. of GIG North SIxJh\street this CITY,
has iust been notified tLat she Is one
Of the heirs Of TIE H8lock estate IN
New York. which has ben in Ltlsatlofl
foT- years and finally settled. Her share
viii amount 10 about $2,5y0,ooo-
sv5 raIresN II, a vast area of and ana
property. 1t was settled by Peter HJl
iock. a pngrim from England, VINO 10
Gated near MattatuCk In lofO