New-York tribune., 1909-09-05

Paris. August 70
After the usual secrecy on the part of the de-
signers regarding tho modes for coming season
the doors Of their showrooms opened last
week to the vast number of foreign buyers, and
the favored portion of the army of fashion writers.
all eager for accurate information. AT this early
date there seems little really In form TO chron-
iole little that has not been foreshadowed in these
columns during the last month. There Is however.
IN astonishing diversity. each house having favor
ite types.
There half long Louis XIV velvet Jackets
with immense hip pockets and slightly iaring hems
Largo 1ewelled buttons. trimmed in Jet and gold.
are placed at tho back and each side OF the
front. below square revers faced with splendid en-
broidery howered brocades In the pastel tnts
OF the eighteenth century They open over long
wnistcoats OF white satin corded silk These are
closed with smaller jeweled buttons and have tiny
pockets on either side The sleeves half long. turn
up IN wide cuffs. faced like the revers; lace frflis
fall from them, and a lace and null cravat softly
folds the throat These splendid creations are worn
with softly hanging skirts of blossy satin Liberty
silk and meteor crepe. A band Of velvet or fur
hens their edge.
And there are long coats of the Dfrectoire period
with deep triple oapes covering the shoulders, and
long coat sleeves finished with wide triple cuffs.
In front the skirt part is cut away to show tho
front breadth of the dress: the body part closes
with revers that reach to the waist line A long
lace cravat drops its ends below the closing.
On the subject OF coats. one great man declares
clients. He "adores the line" which he says is
sacrificed when coat is cut hip length. Another
house. equally great, shows short coats IN quanti-
ties-fascinatng things; belted. shirred pleated
Just the right. the most graceful. watsine. and
defining the figure. while scarcely touching it
With marvellous cleverness all manner OF cloths.
silks and satins are turned into these garments
Edgings of fur, satin covered cords and cunningly
woven braids trim them After the manner OF
Russian blouses many of these short coats close at
side. the closing being invisible under the trim
ming Taken off. they disclose a charming corsage
of silk voe the color of the gown. laid either
white contrasting color.
OF great beauty is a costume built from a glossy
surfaced brown woollen fabric Cut circular
lines the skirt. while hanging in nice straight lines
In front. throws graceful fulness toward the back
The coat is like elaborate bodice. Belted with
velvet. with short basques In tho back II Is
conspcuously The little coat removed. there
is revealed the Corsage Of brown moussene de sole,
shirred gold color. above nigh velvet gtrdle
A short Jacket. With military air, is of Natter
blue velvet embroidered in elaborate design IN
silver threads. There wide revers, and square
cuffs to the easy coat sleeves. all shining with
silver embroidery and 1t flares little at the hem
after the short jackets OF long ago. This piceur-
esGue creation is with a gown or exquisite
black satin smart little overskirt passes plainly
across the front lose itself In the graceful ful-
ness of the back. The skirt mounts a Few inches
above the waistline forming wrinSled belt and
meeting the corsage Of black mousseline de sole
shirred over an under corsase Of changeaole pink
and yellow, gauge Deity mingled with white and
tet trimming the latter shapes suirnpe and uncer
sleeves
The new materials OF such beauty OF color
texture and elaboration OF design that one Is led
into predicting "a picture gown season. among
new gowns seen were charming eighteenth cen