The Vermont watchman. [volume] (Montpelier, Vt.) 1883-1911, 1909-08-19
and FANCIES

XIV Underwear-Foulards for Late Sum-
mer Wear-Pongees Trimmed in Self
Colored ~Laces-Simple Hats for Street
Wear-Florence Fairbanks Chat
New York, Aug. 21.-Autumn is rapidly
approaching and early fall models have
begun to arrive from Paris in a bewildering
variety of styles. Medieval and Louis
styles are both represented in the latest
models that have CONF rom Paris. The
~polonaise, c%uirass, tunic and pannier are
evidently finding extreme favor with the
French women of fashion. This vogue
has spread to the tailored gowns and coat
suits, but that is another story. Besides
getting much from the Louis periods this
years autumn fashion seems also to have
gathered some points from the style OF
1866. The head-dress, excepting perhaps
our grandmother beau-catchers, is much
the same. Many of the bodices and trim
mings also put one in a reminiscent mood.
In looking over these new models the
observer will be struck by the fact that all
these styles seem to be made for the moder-
ately slim if not actually thin m
There seems to be nothing in the collec-
ton that will suit women Of generous pro-
portions. The gowns of the Moyen age
period are not for her, for their t%ightness,
which plainly reveals every line Of the body
is bound to-betray the presence of every
pound of superhuous fat and make the
heavyweight wearer appear ludicrous.
1t is true, %corsets, tightly encasing the body
from neck to knee, and other c~ontrivances
have beendevised to squeeze fat and shape
less bodies into SOM semblance of the
form required by the close-6tting mediae-
val gowns, but the result is far from being,
satisfactory. Any person who had the
opportunity of attending SOM social
function in matron circles will be forced to
admit that.
Even the underwear shows the influence
of the Louis XIV period. The sheath gown
almost did away with underwear and
reduced it to a scant minimum. 1t is true,
the Moyen Age style gives one more
liberty in that respect, but still, the lines
of the undergarments must conform to
those of the gown and it is this require
ment which causes SO much trouble to the
voluminous women. Close fitting under
garments are an absolute necessity for
them. Pantlets, Just as our mothers and
grandmothers used to wear, tight and
buttoned, have to be worn with Moyen
Age dresses. That is good enough for slim
and slender women, but imagine a fat
woman in a garment of that description.
Among the materials for late summer
gowns foulards are particularly strong,
with pongee in its countless varieties a
close second. Other good materials are
changeable t~affetas, moires, cashmere de
sole, bordure silk voiles and Japanese silks.
Sky-blue foulards, with white dots, rose
colored grounds with black dots; gray with
white or black dots, and green with dots
in the various shades of peacock blue,
soft blue with silvery gray figures, and the
numerous designs Of kindergarten pat
terms are all in vogue just now. The dots
in foulards run from the size OF a pm head
to that of a silver dollar. The white PIN
head dots are unusually pleasing on moss
green and azure grounds and produce a
restful effect not found in many materials.
The kindergarten patterns run in white
E-,,uo, -, l,r1- &ro,,pHc cilNpr on Hoan
blue and other fascinating contrasts. One
of the many attractive points about foul
ards is the inability of ones neighbor to
absolutely discern whether the frock cost
rs cents or $3.50 a yard. These silks have
the added grace of yielding to the blan-
dishments of the pressing iron so well that
they retain their new appearance longer
than most other silk
Silk bordure voiles are a fascinating
material. They come in forty-eight-inch
and are frequently seen with a
bright blue ground, and white dots gradu-
ating in size from a dime to a half dollar
piece. This material is soft and man
hSSdDlt ldl uiOlc 81 ina VIC NOOiCh
voiles. 1t has Just a little more body to it
than chiffon cloth. Pongee is attractive
in any shade, but this pliable and fascin-
ating material is most a~lluring in the sky
tints.
Many of the pongees are trimmed in
s%elf-colored laces, the natural shade in
doom aorr1 Donoaa lands itcalf aInirabl1,
to the art of the needlewoman. Embroi-
derry is frequently done in self-color, but
charming contrasts are often introduced,
such as a pale blue embroidery design on
pongee.
Among the colors particularly favored
are mogel or wood color, bois jeli, a
brownish rose, pervenche, soft blush
which is one of the most attractive