davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26
Cuirass and Panier

"HE cuirass has now appeared
trimmed somewhat on the lines
of a barber pole. Formerly. to
give length of line the decoration.
whether braidng or embroidery. ex-
tended straight from shoulder to hip
line: but success has made designers
bold, and cuirasses now appear braided
and embroidered in bands extending
round and round the figure.
Very many Of the cuirass gowns are
designed to hook under the left arm.
This leaves an unbroken line at front
and back. and it helps to carry out the
idea Of armor plate, which formed the
original cuirass.
The woman of small stature. IL she
wishes to invest in a long-hipped
gown, will be wise If she insists upon
having a panel down the center at
front and back. This helps to coun-
teract the sudden break at the hips
and to give added height to the
wearer
Side by side with Middle-Age fash
ions may be found the panier dress
of the French court. Many of these
are made with killed underskirts and
the low-placed sash also is used.
threaded in and out through the dra-
perry or half concealed by 1t.
Practice makes perfect, and most
recent panier dress is one in which
the designer has connected the fichu
with the panier. The fichu. folded
over the shoulders. continues down
the front and the back. forming
panels, which are draped to give
panier effect.
One remarkable gown is OF gray
satin draped over a full skirt of silver
gray crepe de chine. The overdress
is quite tight over the hips, though it
flares halfway between the knees
and the floor, so that 1t may be
brought up at the front and tied at
the knee line. This allows sufficient
fulness for walking, an exercise quite
likely, however, to go out of fashion
IL the sashes and paniers continue to
tie in around the ankles.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26
Changes in Rsincoats

n AINCOATS have undergone slight
X metamorphosis during the last
~ year, and now. at the opening Of
the present season. they have blossomed
forth in two new styles. One Of these
coats is straight in lie. quite mannish
and unadorned. but belted in at the hips
by q plain leather belt, which Is run
through Sits in the material. These fol-
low the general outline Of the medieval.
without. however. straying far from the
requisite masculine cut, and they are
worth mention. But the raincapes are
a matter entirely different. These
are without sleeves. and are merely pro-
vided at each side with Sits through
which the wearer may thrust her arms.
The cape itself. though sometimes gored.
is circular and finished at the neck with
military collar Of some rubberized
silk. The smarteSt capes Of this type
are of underlined silk in white or
colors.
None of the really stylish raincoats Of
the year covers the bottom of the skirt,
nor do they protect it as they should.
They are in this way different from the
coats to which we have become accus-
toned, but this Is the result of the pop
ularity Of the shorter masculine coat.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26

-JRsT. a description of these new
dressing gowns sketcned In
and then some Information
sarding materials and the neces-
sity for Just such clothes.
The model on the seated figure ID
nale-rose flannel Of exquisite finish,
.calloped and embroidered by hand.
This charningly simple gown mas
triple box pleat down the front ana
repeated at the back. Its design Will
admit of a rose-colored cord and tassei
knotted loosely about the waist.
The second model, pale-blue crepe,
suggests albatross as an alternative.
Its border design is Of rose foulard
showing a large dot of blue, which
brings it into harmony with the gown
itself. Pompadour or Dresden ribbon
NAV be substituted for this border, and
a tiny yoke inserted made Of the gown
material and embroidered with pink
and blue.
The last model bears the stamp Of
French originality In its materials.
White. f1eece-lined pique is used. with
an allover embroidery for yoke and
cuffs. Its fastening is arranged under
buttons covered with rich crochet, and
the yoke hooks over to the shoulder
seam. The pleats indicated down front
and sleeves take up so little Of this
heavy material as to be little more than
cordlike tucks. They are also a part Of
the back design. which would be too
wrapper-like without them.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26
Mourning Fashions

to cover their faces wear a dull chif-
fon veil. This is a concession granted
to women. as men are allowed the less
conventional use. under certain conii-
tons. of the band Of black cloth around
one sleeve in place of the all-black suit.
The gown trimmed with bands Of
crepe is correct mourning. even
though square yoke Of plain black
net is permitted. Mourning does not
sanction the wearing Of evening dress.
but it is allowable to lower the neck,
In square Dutch lines, for home wear.
Dull black Is very beautiful in crepe de
especially desirable for the woman who
would sink under weight of heavy
drapery.
White mourning is sometimes substi-
tuted for home use, but this must. il
done at all, be most correctly done.
Soft wool or wolfe. totally devoid Of
trimming, except a rather extreme use
of white crepe folds. is considered first
mourning; but a combination of black
with the white is to be avoided. since it
at once denotes second mourning
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26
A New Type of Gown

abroad casino gowns, are being
l. worn with but slight decolletage
and transparent guimpes of tulle or
mousseline. The materials used on
gowns of this type are embroideries,
laces OF crepe de chimes, for satin seems
to be somewhat passe. Many of them
are trimmed with deep silk fringe. and,
as the guimpe is always collarless,
beautiful dog collars Of jeweled velvet
or Jet are worn, 50 that the gown may
be becoming with q hat.
Somehow q collarless gown and a pic
ture hat are not always q pretty combi-
nation.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26

4 THOUGH the average woman, the
~ one for whom fashions are writ
4 n ten. may keep abreast OF the
styles for all ordinary occasions, she
may find herself at loss when con-
fronted with the sudden necessity for
mourning garments.
While most persons know quite well
that the wearing Of black is a conven-
tional thing and of prescribed dura-
ton. they may not realize just what
changes have taken place and what
constitutes the correct mourning at
given period or season.
what, and while fashions in 1,d mourn
thing, it is we'll to at least avoid the
grotesque effect of things distinctly out
of style. as in the garb for any other
separate occasion.
it is no longer necessary to swathe
the figure in heavy crepe regardless of
the weather or the health Of the wearer.
Sensible license is allowed, and. since
the heavier wells have been proven far
from hygienic women who still prefer
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26
Our Corset Story
TOLD EACH WEEK BY ONE WHO KNOWS
THE LAST ANALl SIS

larger than in former years. a ,,tt,.
larger. which is enough to prod,ce thu
comparatively straight figure of the day.
aho' lei us pray. Of many following
cas-. Hips abdomen and waist remain
SO much in keeping with the fashions Of
the medieval days that the French mo-
diste has little hope OF being able to
drag in and thrust upon us panier and
pun OF Marie Antoinette or frilI and
fringe OF 1880. Partisan women loved
the empire line. and the svelt figure that
came with 1t has chung and worked it.
self out into the medieval.
Length OF corset material continues.
but within reason and not with bones.
corset evolution does not mean revolu-
ton. and the excess of bone length
savored of coming warfare
Length of the corset below the waist
line has been lessened at the back and
Its bones cut to a reasonable length.
AT point over the hips the corset has
been heightened, but as to material only.
In front the corset has been shortened
from the waist line down to admit of
comfortable sitting.
A lowered bust has been the cry, but
what shortening has been done is i'm.
perceptible
Carriers are used to the point Of PEN
ury (for the weareD. Those in the
front are placed two inches away from
the steel on either side, and the others
are In number and position to hold down
the length Of coutil.
Further than this there 10 nothing
new. How could there be after all I
have told you? In very truth I have
said everything there is to say until
another season brings in its variation.
and / would not write a moral or an
aftermath to save a beating.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26
That Upward Tilt

FOLLOWING the first suggestion of
II the rolled hatbrim, before it de-
Il veloped into the cavalier shape
almost. indeed, before it really rolled
at alive had the first three-cornered
hat. So many months ago did this ap-
pear that it was too early for its sue.
cessful entry.
Makers have again put forth this
thrice-turned-up brim, and now there
seems hope of Its passing on into a re-
liable fashion.
But before this hat is fairly on its
way to the millinery workrooms there
is whisper of its modification. Inst
the merest suggestion, we are told. OF
a roll at the back. although one mil
liner boldly promises that her own es-
pecial hat-she always stakes her for
tune on one shape-is to be the upturned
back. This march Of the fashions is
interesting to those who keep in line.
and to the watchers on the curbstone AZ
well.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26
French Fashion
Notes
PARIS, Sent. is.

PARIS, Sept. Is.
ITO THE woman who shines in the
later hours Of the day Paris is
u offering many suggestions for
hats and gowns. The attraction Of a
large hat has ever been realized. and
French milliners are combining the best
lines of bygone seasons with graceful
color harmonies and interpretations Of
new materials. Plumes to match the
general color, or to afford contrasting
tones. are wound over and around large
crowns and lend their dropping grace
to lace and satin. Old Winter places
his characteristic touch upon these
creations In the addition Of fur on the
crown, or in round heads which peep
out from lace and plumes. Aigrettes.
black and white, give fluffy height. and
gold and silver tulle are crisply tied in
bows that fash out from crown and
brim.
The large black velvet hat prevails
here as usual. The color of these gives
contrast or harmony for an entire cos
tune, and the elegance OF velvet is in
disputable. Beaver forms Of rough and
satin finish furnish charming back
grounds for lace and plumes. Felt
trimmed rather simply with underfac-
ings Of contrasting velvet (the new
''corbeau" blue being widely used). Is
still offered to the woman who prefers
palmer styles.
permit the panier when 1t gives grace
full length Of line. The Marie Antoi-
nette fichu line is favored for the
bodice. A sloping shoulder line accom-
panies this. and the sleeves are gener-
ally fiat and closely fitting. Square
yokes are most generally used.
Perhaps the newest note in the evening
gown is the appearance Of the girdle.
1t is high and gives a contrast which
Is artistically necessary to the fuiness
appearing at the top Of the skirt. This
fulness nevessitates the use OF soft,
supple materials to give a clinging line.
Two-toned effects are shining In the
evening lights. These are secured by
combinations of chiffon and an under
dress Of satin. or by different layers OF
chiffon In pale contrasting colors.
Black is also used. true Partisan
combination. Fur has been added by
many designers, and brocaded silk Is
cndrmlnSly Incorporated III tho SHuio
and skirt of one of the latest models.
Quaintness of evening gowns is re-
peated in styles for evening wraps. The
old-fashioned dolman Is very apparent.
When made Of supple materials and
trimmed with large rolling fur collars
they are a delightful combination Of
clinging lines and protective warmth.
The influence of Louis XVI is appear
ing in the evening nantes, as in other
costumes. A wrap which echoes the
lines Of that monarch's reign Is the
tempting offer Of one of the important
French houses. 1t Is a long cape, topped
with a fascinating hood. The material
is satin brocade yelled with chiffon.
Tiny, soft frills OF Chiffon line the
capuchon; fur edges the hood, appear
ing Ia a broader band at the bottom Of
the cape.
These evening notes are merely few
new ones chosen from very wide
range of modes for the coming seasons.
Designers have certainly combined art
with attractive lines Of other days. and
woman In her evening robes Is moro
quantity beautiful than ever
ELOISE
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26
Fur Prospects
THOUGH the winter months al

THOUGH the winter months are
~ not SO near as to be menacing.
4 u they cannot be entirely forgotten.
for during the days OF September
furs must be planned.
1t is evident that there has been no
decrease in the size of the muffs They
are still perfectly enormous. formed OF
two and sometimes even three foxes.
or Of innumerable skins of the small
sable and the still smaller ermine. The
very newest muffs of all are finished
with dangling heads and tails that al
most sweep the ground when madame's
muff is held on a line with her waist.
The coolest hands of the well-to-do
woman may be made comfortable this
winter, no matter what unheard-of
point the mercury may reach.
But the muff Is not the only fur that
woman wears. The stole for the neck
must not be forgotten; and of what.
think you, is this made? Chiffon? Yes.
really and truly. chiffon: but edged on
each side with fur to match the mum.
The part that lies over the shoulders
is of nothing but gauzy chiffon in
shade to match muff or hat. This is the
first time that the fur-trimmed scarf
has appeared, and 1t will be, presume
bly,, very well received. 1t will tighten
the weight of fur over the shoulders.
it will provide opportunity to make the
costume still more harmonious and it
should be a fashion becoming to all who
can afford 1t.
Those who consider this but IAN airy
scarf. with two skinny rows Of fur to
protect them from the cold" may wear
scarfs trimmed more deliberately with
fur. as many rows as they like IL the
10 tiop idea be carried out,
somewhat later in the year 1t is to
be expected that velvet will replace
sauze. but the change will make but
Slight difference in the effect Velvet
yidaai taste will not. therefore. be ham.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26
Square Revers

~ 1G revers were a feature OF tho
directoire fashions: but while the
cutaway coat. the Napoleonic
collar and cuff and the high girdle have
passed away, the revers have returned
and are knocking for admittance.
Many Of the newest cloth gowns are
made with big square revers, but they
are not stiff. They are merely shaped
pieces of the material allowed to ran
away from the V-shaped neck. and TO
ripple gently at the lower edge in a
way that suggests limpness more than
anything else. While they are a feature
of the new street costumes, they must
raw edges or selvage of which may be
used in an unfinished state. A canvas or
lining would merely spoil the big revers
and take from them all the style they
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26
Some Practical Dressing Gowns

youthful. Pique makes an especial ap-
peal because. being washable. it will
not need the care that the dainty
woolehs will.
F1owered crepes. looking curtainy but
picturesque, are almost indestructible.
and young people love them. In fact.
the loose and flowing robe she rests in
Is dear to the big heart of the whole
feminine world.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26
Very Large Handbags

~HE handbag has become one Of tho
most comforting possessions OF
Il the housekeeper. the business
women and the shopper. The growth Of
the one-time pocketbook has been inter-
esting to watch. In its latest develop
ment it is thing of remarkable dimen-
sions. and 1t is quite to be expected that
IL traveling-bag proportions were to be
indicated in the newest handbag women
would grasp the opportunity Of carry
ing home. without loss. their own small
bundles. 4.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26

This may be pinned hastily on to the
front Of almost any blouse-just donned
and doffed with the hat and coat. 1t Is
At, and dressy addition to the cos
tune. and shows just enough dainty
white to supply the exquisite touch.
Pleatings Of linen edged with lace. not
pinned on. but part of the stock, are
shown in another picture with less
open neck line: and. again. a Iow-cut
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26

form the filling-in act. but in the in
term a substitute has been found
among the neckwear.
The well-dressed American girl who
returned from Paris in blue serge with
coat to her heels was too well-gowned
to disregard. Hers was an excessively
low-cut coat. with a showing of white
to NIL 1t In resembling the bunch of
nife-pieated net in one of the pictures
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26
g 9M'7s1, A79a7 WZzAe

coat discloses the front Of the blouse.
The effect varies but little in these diff
ferent arrangements.
This is a convenient fashion. for there
is not living the woman who would
scorn, in some hurry-up moment, the
ample frill that covers. like charity, a
multitude of sins. When it is not pos
sible in the midst of the rush OF a
strenuous day to dress completely, the
talbot will hide the wrinkled shirt front.
Not every one Of them you meet. how
ever. il a mantle of charity.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26

r HAVE said the word corset 50
often I am almost ashamed to use
Il it again: but, as somebody In Won
derland remarked to Alice: When
make a word do a lot Of work like that
1 always pay it extra" So dismiss It
from your mind and I'll collect the
money for 1t.
But the final word has not been said
on this subject until the most minute
changes in the autumn corset have been
jotted down in black and white.
The hip, which has claimed the lions
share of attention all along, shall here
be treated first. The hip, say. remains
suppressed and has by no means been
allowed to assert itself.
An abdominal straightness continues
with, in the best models, hygienic up
lifting from below. but never pressure
on the abdomen.
The waist measurement is comfortably
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-09-26

TINE open coat has now to be reck-
oned with. Every new fashion
u makes it's own demands, and such
length of line as Is shown in the open
ing Of the most recent coat fronts is
bound to suggest. to the fluffy woman.
the necessity for something to counter
act its extreme severity.
Were 1t fur time. the latest thing in
boas or stole ends probably would per-
The Salt Lake tribune. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1890-current, 1909-11-17
TITHE SYSTEM KILLS THRIFT.

On page three of Tuesday morning 5
issue of The Tribune was printed a
communication from Mr. Ncphi Il, vii"
liams of This city. 1t is a letter that
Mormons should read MIR, Williams
gave attention to the titbc system,
pointing ont the utter injustice OF the
system as applied 10 Mormon merchants.
for instance. who give ten per cent OF
their profits into fund winch is large
ly utilized to set p'aud foster TO self.
sustaining proportions business concerns
which come into direct competition with
the private capital and energy of the
Mormon merchant tlthe-paNer.
And this reminds us again Of the
sermon delivered by Apostle Orsou +.
Whitney in the tabernacle on last sun
day In the course of that scrmon-of
a business nature, as majority OF the
sermons of the pretended prophets are
uowadays-Mr. Whitney said that the
enforcement of the law of tithing was
merely preparatory to the Inauguration
of the law of conservation. " This
law of 'consccration means that the
saints arc to give all their possessions
over 70 The church.
But the question arises, is not the
law of tithinc practically one of "con'
sccration. as the term is accepted ia
mean The giving of all'
Take the man with an average family
as families 90 among ;he Mormon pco
Iple-aud this is not said as IN the slight
| est intending disrespect, for VIC shall
always proclaim against what is called
Grace suicide and he earns, say, ont
hundred dollars per month. If that mar
shall pay ten per ccut TO the church
does he not in reality consecratc
his all TO that organization? Certainly
his family and himself will require thr
remaining ninety per cent for their sup
port. SO the man never gains anything
| in The process,
And Mr.. Whitney and the rest ot
them will find. upon a test, that th'
Mormon people look upon the ten pei
cent demand as bcing quite near enough
to "copsccration - to suit them.
The Salt Lake tribune. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1890-current, 1909-11-17
NATURALIZATION QUESTIONS.

Ii has hccu announced recently in
thc dispatches from California that Il
Syrian had been allowed naturalization
in Federal court there. This was stat.
ed 10 be contrary 10 The practice of
the Federal courts of the East, which
had refused naturalization TO such, and
also to an Armenian. on the ground that
as an Asiatic he was not ''a free white
person II seems curious that such
. question should arise with respect to
Syrian or an Armenian. Both arc
undoubtedly of the white race, the Ar
mcnian being next door 10 the Circas'
sian. which IS taken as one of the
highest types of the white race.
1t is a singular turn of our natUraliZa'
ton affairs, that upon the refusal OF
naturalization TO an Armenian the Turk
lsb legation at Washington has made
protest against the refusal. The
strangcness Of this is acccutuated when
we recall bhat the massacre of Ar.
meniaus has for generations been n IA
vortc diversion Of the Turks; and now
Turkish embassy in this country is
found championiug the cause Of an Ar
menian. aud claiming injustice toward
him by the courts of the United States
IN refusing 10 naturalize him. The
Turkish protest is cthnicallv valid, anC
whatever practice has been pursued il
this country with respect TO refusing
naturalization 10 Armeniaps, Syrians
| lCircassiaus. Arabs. or Jews born IN Asia
! Minor (for we presume all would como
luuder the same category so far as clig
ibility for naturalization is concerned,
| IS etbuically wrong. There is no reason
whatever TO refuse naturalization Il
any individuals of these classes or races
There is no reason TO deny naturaliza
tion 10 the Turks. but if the dividing
line should be drawn as between Asia
tics and Europeans, then we should b.
The Salt Lake tribune. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1890-current, 1909-11-17
IMPROPER SOURCE OF ADVICE.

On October l3, 1891, the Honorable
Judge Charles S, Zane delivered a
charge TO a Utah grand jury, in the
course of which be said: "You have
no right 10 take the advice Of law.
breakers or their attorneys on the out
side. - The righteousness of that ad-
monition is Immediately recognized, and
It's scope is of wide application.
We call attention 10 Judge Zane S
uttcrance for the purpose of asking the
Mormon people to ponder it seriously,
aud then to apply it to their OWN situa-
ton.
Admittedly President Joseph I. Smith
is lawbreaker; President Fraucis NJ,
Lyman is lawbreaker: Apostle Johu
Henry Smith is lawbrealler: Apostle
Heber j. Grant IS lawbreaber; Apostle
Charles w. Penrose is a iawbreaher;
and others OF lesser authority, but none
the less leaders in the Mormon church.
are lawbreakers.
Now. these men have supporters ia
the presiding quorums Of the church
and while some of them may not be
lawbreakers, they nevertheless defe-d