davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17
Styles and Shapes in Furs for Winter Wear

brlmmed hat of velvet, silk, felt, beaver
or even of lace, net or metallic tissue.
There are some turbans entirely Of fox,
but they are in the minority. Turbans
on the Cossack order, with the lower part
of fox, a draped crown Of velvet and a
trimming of stiff egret or other brush,
like feather, are smart with fox neck fur
and muff, and a wide brimmed velvet
hat trimmed solely by a foxskin draped
round the crown is also good. The tur-
ban of the sketch which accompanied a
set Of black pointed fox was a chic model
with draped crown of dull silver lace and
cockade in several shades Of green velvet.
In the shorter hair furs more liberty Is
allowed the milliners, and sable, mink,
ermine, chinchilla and breitchwanz seal,
etc, are used not only for trimming but
for crowns, brims or whole hats.
The Henry ~, and Henry H., lines in
which earlier delights, are made up with
fur crown Of fur and brim of silk or vel
vet, very narrow on the right side and
turned up sharply against the crown on
the left side. Crowns OF fur, with soft
draped brims of velvet, tulle, etc, make
smart heavy turbans. setting low on the
head, as do all these turbans.
A lovely set In mink had a little cape
of mink brown lace over which the mink
pelts dropped, the skin set closely to-
gether around the top, but parting to
show the lace with the shoulder flare.
The muff was made in the same fashion
and the turban had its brim OF mink
and it's draped crown Of velvet the same
color.
Fur and velvet or fur and satin are
often combined in muff and stole, as we'll
as in the hat, the fox and satin set which
is pictured on this page giving an idea of
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17
What the Women Folks Are Doing

the owl securely TO the card with a drop
OF fish glue and paint I'm with sepia a
wee branch OF pussy willow on which owlet
must appear to perch. Write Just above
the bird in fancy lettering, 'Hoo's HOOP
and below It the name Of the guest who will
occupy the cover. These make very cum
ming seat indicators and cost practically
nothing.
Tho girl who has the knack Of making
ribbon flowers has a never failing source
of dainty place cards. A spray OF even
a single blossom of this exquisite botany
attached to the conventional card affords
an air Of complete novelty. A pretty plan
is to use a tinted card and with It a rib
bon floweret in a darker shade Of the same
color, as a pale lavender card with violets;
pale pink with a wild rose. In places where
1t is not easy to obtain the tinted cards
they can be fashioned from rough art paper
delicately brushed over with water color,
using a soft amel's hair brush.
1t is a pretty fancy, n there is time for
IT, to make the ribbon flower in the form
Of a single blossom. as a pansy. wild rose,
marigold. with a tiny sachet tucked away
In the center of each. Guests retain the
flowers as souvenirs.
Where there is nothing but cardboard
on which to fan back novelties are still
possible. A tiny easel cut from the board
or from heavy paper which stands at the
guests cover and bears his name has an
air OF originality which is very pleasing,
Or wee palettes cut double. so as TO stand
alone, with little dabs of different color
along the edge and the names Of the com
pany also In color. are extremely effective.
Any shade desired can be made to stand
upright or to hang over the water glass
by the simple expedient Of cutting II double.
Cardboard cut in the shape Of small,
old-fashioned envelopes and shaded with a
few necessary lines, addressed with the
name Of the guest, are very quaint and
pretty. For a woman's luncheon fan shapes
are easily done.
Very attractive place cards for any spe-
cial festival are easily made by choosing
some symbol Of the season and cutting II
out in heavy white paper or cardboard.
Thus, a sheaf Of wheat, an apple, or any
fruit, with the name OF the guest on II, is
appropriate for Thanksgiving. A holly
leaf, an evergreen wreath. or Santa's jolly
old features in profile for Christmas. Very
little skill in designing is necessary, as an
advertisement picture or anything OF the
kind can be used as a pattern, and no
shading or color whatever is required.
Another extremely successful plan de-
vised by a hostess about to entertain peo-
pie who did not know each other very well
was an original combination Of favors and
place cards.
She chose for eac expected guest a little
1O-cent favor, the right name Of which wher
guessed began with the same letter as that
Of the guest to occupy that particular
cover. OF course, the correct name Of the
article was not always Immediately APP
parent. several terms being possible, and
in working out the corresponding initials
guests became familiar with one another's
names. Flowers, comic new-art animals
or almost any inexpensive trifle could be sc
used.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17
Oririnal Place cards.

A dainty name card that can be made
at home for a woman's luncheon or formal
dinner is easily gotten up as follows;
~ short length OF pliabIs wire is twisted
INTO the shape Of q circle or an ellIpse
and fastened by doubling the ends over
and twisting them neatly down. A spray
Of smilax or. prettier still, of some tiny
flower Is then twisted around the wire in
and out until the circle Is covered and a
miniature floral wreath IL formed. A
tiny carr border, with a narrow silver
or gilt border. with the name OF the guest
written on It is attached to the little wreath
which hangs over the rim Of the water
glass or rests against it when guests sit
down.
Amusing little cards which can be
whipped up in an idle afternoon are deco
rated with peanuts everywhere ~obtainable.
One sheet Of white cardboard will make
the cards for a large company. For each
card fashion from q peanut q funny little
owl by marking in beak, eyes, wing feath"
ers. and so on with Ink or sepia. Attach
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17
Chats AboHt Women.

Miss Margaret w. Bartlett and Miss
Louise /. Bartlett of Hartford, Conn, have
left for China, where they will become
teachers In the family OF LANG Tus Yen,
Foreign Affairs.
Miss Elizabeth Goldstein, who has Just
been appointed sanitary inspector in
Boston, is the first woman to hold such
an office in New England, and excepting
Jan Adams the only one in this country.
Miss Goldstein had been engaged in set
Element work for several years before
receiving her appointment.
Mrs, Irving Parker Mills, who ran for
Pchool director at Upper Montclair. N. j.,
was defeated in the primaries, her op-
ponent, a teacher at Columbia, winning.
For months Mrs. Mills has been election
ering and most OF the women were with
her. but the men voted against her. She
can run Independently, however, If she
wants to.
Miss Ruhama Skidmore, who wal re-
Gently reelected foreign secretary OF the
United States biographical society. has
held hat office for twenty years. She
represented the society at the International
congress held In London in 1897, on which
occasion she assisted the late Baroness
Burdett-Coutts in receiving the members
OF the congress at a garden party.
Mrs. Charles HenrOtin OF Chicago, speak
ing 70 the Woman's Trade Union league
at the national convention, said that even
today the larger number Of women workers
are unorganized. and many have retained a
prejudice against such forms OF ~organiza-
ton. Women are, however, rapidly learn
ing the potency OF united effort. II Is
effective In education and in philanthropy,
why not even more so In economics-which
Is far more concrete and visible9'
Those women who do not believe in the
Woman's Trade Union league should
ponder over the report OF DR.. Devine In
'The Pittsburg Survey" in which he
sought TO convey some idea of the cause
OF poverty and degeneracy Of the Pitts
burg workers. The third chief cause, he
says. lis still lower wages for women,
who receive, for example, in one of tho
metal trades In which the proportion of
women Is great enough to be menaeing.
one-half as much as u-norganized men IN
the same shop and one-third as much as
men in the union. And this fact is true
Of every great city in our country wherever
women are unOrganiEed."-
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17
The Octo9er bride.

Why the June bride in song and story
TO the approximate exclusion of all other
brides2
Not thai we nave anything whatsoever
to say that is not all in praise Of her
bless her!-and warmly appreciative, of
course; but why, inquiries the Washington
Herald, should she be localized far be-
yond that sacoharine standard vouchsafed
her no less deserving sisters?
AS q month of beauty, promise, and
gladness, october has far the better of it
when compared with June The plain, un-
vanished truth is, June is a pretty lazy,
hazy, languid month, and while 1t is upon
us 1t is something of a bore. Marriages
scheduled for June are largely products
of February, March and April speculation.
Distance lends enchantment to the Jun
time, as brutal as q recital OF the facts
may seem TO those Of ardently sentimental
persuasion. Anticipating June is q n I'M
alleged, sweet delight; realizing It is a
painful awakening. We doubt not that
James Russell Lowell was sitting tight by
a cheerful winter fire when he wrote:
o what il so rare as a day in JunS7
Then, II ever, come perfect days
But Octoberi There ia q different story.
Weddings planned for that month are
wisely conceived and all but invariably
happy in every circumstance. The golden
rod, the chrysanthemum, the yellow and
gold and red OF the changing leaves Of
the forests-these furnish a setting for the
picture such as ne'er was dreamed Of in
the sixth months poor philosophy. In
October one dearly loves 70 be alive; in
June one merely does not wish to die.
We sing the October bridei May all that
life holds sacred and most dear be hersl
Grand the inspiration that prompts her to
choose October for her wedding day-Oc-
tober, when
Earth Is all in splendor drest;
Queenly fair, she sits at rest,
While the deep, delicious day
Dreama ita happy life away,
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17
coIleee Made cook..

College NAuG LOOKS
lid cook will soon rival the
T physician as a promote OF
health, and the competent. edu-
~ Gated housemaid viii demand
WNNWI both respect and good pay" is
= the prophecy OF Mrs. S. w.
Eton Of Philadelphia, president OF the
Pman's auxiliary of the National Baptist
fiVehtlon and secretary Of an association
the protection Of eoiored women.
domestic science" a Mrs. Layton.
Is a despised and undeveloped art. 1t is
considered degrading because IT has never
been considered worthy Of Investigation.
Scientific research has shown bad cooking
and unhygienic housekeeping to be a source
Of disease and u~nhappiness. The era of the
real cook is at hand.
w are told by science that more per-
sons die of Incorporate eating than drink
ing. Incorporate eating does not always
mean excessive eating; it means indlscrimi-
nate eating.
III college women could be brought to
realize the fleld-both psychological and
sociological-opened up by a domestic
career they would not be 80 scornful OF Its
so-called limitations The trained mind
is better able to ~analyze the needs Of homo
hAAu oNhhg AO NoAAAANAhhS AAAah NHu hA-
informed mind.
My plan, which will shortly be carried
out in the new training school to be opened
in Washington on october 10 by the
Woman's Auxiliary of the National Baptist
convention, and in our school here. is to lift
domestic science to the level Of a profess
sion.
The cook should study chemistry. physi-
ology and should know how disease is pro-
duced and spread. 1 believe the maid
should study architecture and know enough
of sanitation to prevent Infection in homes.
and a nurse should not be just a wltless
person whose sole duty is to see that
the baby does not fall out of bed. She
should have the elements of trained nurs-
ing and kindergarten teaching. She should
be able to care for, restrain. teach and
amuse her charges"
Mrs. Layton does not think these re-
quirements excessive or far-fetched. She
believes that the present dissolution OF
homes. on account Of lack Of adequate do
md sic help, will lead to a new era in the
seNHant girl history. Persons will realize
that unframed and unskilled labor is as
Improbable in the home as 1t is in the
fctory and will pay better prices for edu-
Gated servants.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17
Leaves From Fashion,s Notebook.

Royal in effect Is a gown made entirely
OF cloth OF gold covered with lace Of the
palest tan shade, sparsely embroidered
with gold threads.
White fox is the fur beloved by the
young girl. and as a novelty this season
cord and tassel trimming in white silk for
both muff and boa has made its appear
ance.
The fancy for jetted and beaded effects
of all kinds has led to the Introduction
Of the umbrella with directoire handle
fashioned with a small cabochon Of Jet on
the top.
Jabots are shown in Chantilly and Span
ish black lace and jabot and stock COM
bined OF frilled white maline over black,
while the transparent stocks of net and
chiffon are set off with artistic touches Of
embroidery.
Black chiffon broadcloth was used to
make a handsome draped gown which had
little to relieve It's severity save a row OF
slashes bound with black satin, which
opened TO reveal a band Of satin in bril-
liant Persian c%olorings. The slashes APP
peared on both bodice and skirt.
The marabout scarf has a rival this
season in the scarf OF chiffon, crepe.
mousseline, satin or velvet edged with
marabout. On the pelerine order are Shout
der wraps of satin in white and bright
colorings bordered with black or brown
marabout.
For the tailored shirt waist are seen
short ascot ties of white linen, some en-
broidered heavily, others showing. the
daintiest of French stitching, all in white.
A touch of color Is also seen on ascots
for the school girl. lavender and rose being
the tints most in evidence.
Velvet is extensively employed for street
suits. Usually 1t is some dark, plain shade,
but occasionally a novelty velvet and an
old favorite-brocaded velvet-are seen. OF
this class is a thTee-piece suit, in which
the princess gowns Is Of black velvet,
thickly sprinkled with white dots, while
the coat Is of plain black velvet lined with
the dotted.
Mourning neckwear is more varied and
effective this season than for some time
past. Stocks. ascots, jabots and %Jurnovers
appear In a variety OF suitable material
either all black or black and white. For
instance, q smart black MORE ascot is
shown with a white linen stock and a
turnover OF black Ottoman silk finishes a
stock OF white pique. Again turnover coll
lars and cuffs of white linen are edged
with a narrow and OF black and with
deeper cuffs is a set OF hemstitched white
linen showing large French knots in black.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17
she Gould lecture, Too.

The Women's Republican club Of Denver
has nominated Mrs. Dewey C. Bailey as
its candidate for congress next year. Mrs.
Bailey does not expect to nave to serve,
however, as she does not think the repub-
lican men will indorse the nomination.
She is an excellent speaker and Is said to
be a typical western woman, with tact and
resourcefulness that many men congress
men might envy. She is president of the
Women's club Of Denver, and the wife Of
the United States marshal of Colorado. 1t
is said that any woman elected to congress
will be able to name her own price from
the lecture bureaus, which would gladly
engage her.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17

one sees, too, two short haired furs use,
together. Thus a wide soft scarf Of chin
chilla may have a wide border or severan
narrow bands OF sable or mink land sur
prislngly charming in color the soft brown
and gray appear) or blue fox may be COM
bined with ermine. Unless cleverly man
aged these combinations are far from sue
cessful, one fur detracting from the eff
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17
Women writsrr I'm France.


OF the 100000 women in France a pa
tient statistician has discovered that 5000
use the pen more or less profitably. OF
these L,50o write novels, 800 school books,
300 poetry and the remainder are miscel-
ianeous writer's, of whom 800 are Journal-
lists. Fifteen hundred belong to the French
Society of Authors and sixty to the Society
of Dramatic Authors. but very few French
plays are signed by women.
or the 800 who contribute to the news
papers. only twenty write on other topics
than fashion. One Of the latter, the Mar
Guis Guy de Boishebert. It is curious to
note. is an authority on military matters.
She is. by the way, better known as the
novelist Mamie Anne de Bovet-
Some fifteen years ago there were only
about six women in French Journalism, and
IL they have increased 1t Is not because they
have found the path easy for them every
where.
There are among them women with
brains that are quasi masculine, who have
shown their power to surmount opposition.
The most gifted woman writer in France
today is Daniel Lesuerr, who is now vice
president of the Society Of Authors. An
other very clever woman writer is Pierre
Coulevain (they nearly all take masculine
ps~eudonyms). whose pictures Of cosmo-
polltan life, and especially Of American
manners-though she has never been in
America-have earned for her very warm
praise.
Another woman who is as bright and
clever as she is modest is the journalist
Jane Misme, who is at the head of the
feminist progressive organization, while
Paris latest daily newspaper, Les Nou-
velles, a very serious and sober organ, is
directed by Nine. Marguerite Durand, who
was formerly associated with Severine in
that feminist paper, La FrOnds-ill-starred
because It came before its time.
The productions OF the poetesses are
largely erotic. The aristocratio poetess who
has the largest following Is the Confess
Matthew de Noailles, whose works certainly
show some talent, but all OF them are fer
vent disciples OF Francois Cope and Jean
Richepin.
Millinery as q SOIaCe.
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17

CAPE AND MUFF OF MINK WITH
BROWN LACE, A SET OF POINTED
FOX AND A SET OF GRAY FOX WITH
VELVET.
fectiveness Of the other rather than adding
TO it; but some very quaint and beautiful
scarf, muff and coat sets are shown in
combination furs.
Fur occupies so important a place in the
new seasons millinery that we shall see
more Of these three piece sets than ever
before and every milliner and furrier is
already showing beautiful models Of this
type.
The fox furs are much used for such
sets, but In fox, stole and muff are usually
untrimmed save for soft knots or bows Of
satin or velvet, the designers evidently
reasoning wisely that the long glossy fur
is at its bent without ornament. On the
hat the fox is ordinarily used as a band
trimming enciTeling q tuTban or wide
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17

winter. Her neck furs have swelled in
size and her muffs, already large. ave
gone gayly on increasing in size to the
verge of caricature. Indeed, they often
topple over that same verge, and some of
the extreme models, though beautiful as
specimens of fur and f~urriers' skill, are
absurd as dress accessories.
The most marked tendency in neck furs
is the widening into scarf and shawl
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17
No Having a Bryn Mawr.

In her address at the beginning of the
fail term at Bryn Mawr, Miss NJ. Carey
Thomas, the president, said, in part: The
year Is marked out for me from other
years by the decision of the students of
the college, through their self-government
association, to do away with what has
been a blot on the fair escutcheon of
Bryn Mawr and give w once and for all
the silly and ungenerous practice Of teas
ing, embarrassing and hectoring the
younger and inexperienced students.
However slight this hectoring may have
been, 1t was uncivilized n barbarous.
This practice, which had come to prevail
only in recent years at Bryn Mawr-it
did not exist in the earlier years Of the
college-has prevented my idealizing the
sophomore class as 1 should like to-"
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17

either as a means Of livelihood or an as
suagement OF sorrow7 What is there in
the making and selling OF hats and rib
bons that Ia so soothing7 No one can
doubt that millinery Is a panscea, else so
many disillusloned wives Of the upper
classes would not occupy themselves with
II. One of the latest to engage in it is
Mrs. lie Gallienne. She has found her
errant husband ~difficult-so gossip says
and no one can doubt thai as q house
mate he might be quite unsatisfactory,
and therefore Mrs. lie Galllenne finds her
self happier to live apart from him. She
is reported to be on good terms with her
husband, but with distance her regard
grows greater. She says he Is q poet and
an artist. "one Of those men on whom
there is no counting" One would gather
that from a very slight knowledge OF his
slender output. So she has opened a mil
llnery shop In Paris. Yet Partisan mil
liners are said to be the finest. That may
be, but Mrs. Gallienne made a regular find
In Brussels. When the average woman
reflects that tasteful hats" are offered
for sale at a dollar apiece In Brussels she
can see that Mrs. LIE Gallienne would in
deed have been a slmpleton to let such an
opportunity escape her. She saw her way
to a good living at once. contracted with
the milllner to furnish her with any num-
Der Of such hats, hired a shop in Paris,
offered her dollar hats for a handsome
advance in price, with the agreeable re-
suit that she presently found herself coin
ing money Her customers, SO the San
Francisco Argonaut says. are very select
those refined women who would think
It disgraceful to be referred to in news
paper as prominent and whose idea Of
dressing is to be '1nconspicuous."
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17

shapes The chic stole IN
now does not lie fatty
on the shoulders; 1t
Grapes, suggesting,
however family, the
shawl lines which are
having so great a
vogue.
These shapes, especially when carried to
extremes. are not generally becoming, the
effect they produce being a thickening and
shortening of torso, but a tall, slender
woman can wear a draped stole or fur
mantiIla gracefully and well, and all
modes seem made solely for the benefit Of
the slim woman.
Luckily, good fEs always look well, even
II they are not built up on the very latest
lines, and we'll dressed women viii tran
GULLY wear their sables and marten and
fox, etc, in last years shapes. For that
matter the fox furs, always popular and
beautiful. do not lend themselves to draped
effects and, save for occasional models
widened by the addition OF another pelt,
are on about the same lines as those to
which we nave become accustomed.
Much fox will be worn, Paris having pro-
ounce emphatically in favor of the blue
fox and silver fox. while the white and
black fox and a new foxskin dyed a lovely
soft taupe brown are already selling
rapidly.
A fad Of the season is the trimming OF
the wide shawl stoles and dolman shaped
fur wraps with contrasting fur. the short
hair furs being as a rule trimmed in wide
or narrow bands Of long hair fur, though
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17

NRESs style
mean corset
style. You u
have the right corset
if you expect to
make the right appear
ance. You'll never
find another corset so
certain to be in style
as a Kabo.
A Kabo Corset is al
ways made to fill the re-
q%uirements of the very
latest fashions in gowns.
This Is made possible
only by our Paris con-
nections. We lead all
others in corset style.
Kabo Form Reducing
Corsets are perfect In COM
fort and results.
Kabo Maternity Support
ers are a great blessing to
women who expect the Stork
All Kabo goods are guar
anteed by the most liberal
guarantees.
Kabo Corset Co.
Chicago s
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17

Ew YORK. Oct. 1e.-Furs prom
Use to be particularly interest
ing this season and, sad to tell,
more expensive than ever.
Little furs will not do for the
smartlv dressed this
Omaha daily bee., 1909-10-17
Stops Itching

II oPINIoN OF A PROMINENT ATTORNEY
ct have been using Newbro's Herpicide for a num-
her OF years. At first I used 1t for d~andruff, but
since my troubles from that source have ceased / have
continued for the pleasing effect it has upon the head;
The use Of Herpiclde means a clean scalp, a good head
of harr and a coat collar free from the appearance
of grease. 1t is a luxurious habit hard to break off
when you have once become accustomed to It,"
GEO. G. BINGHAM Atty, 16 s. Commercial St.,
Salem, Ore.