The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1909-01-21
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NEW YORK FASHION LETTER
BY Catherine Mann PayZant.


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NEW YORK, Jan 21-All fashion
able fabrics for evening waists lend
themselves to dainty effects this sea-
son. The materials for the winter are
soft and pliable like those of the sum-
mer. though there is a tendency to-
wards closer weaves. Plain soft col
ors in dull tones are in highest favor,
though many fancy herring bones are
cheyron stripes as well as alternating
stripes of plain and checked patterns
are to be found.
Blouse waists are as popular as
ever because of the tendency towards
the two-piece costume having waist
that harmonizes in color but not in
weave. For economy, many changes
and complete good taste, this idea bids
| fair to rival the one piece costume
with it's long loose separate coat
To say that these separate waists
are cheap or economical from the
frst-cost point of view. is to make a
mistake. though they may be as mex
pensive or as costly as is wished for.
The idea that appeals to many a
| woman is the many changes that
may be rung upon this one gown. 1t
may partake of the Empire by the
addition of the Empire girdle made
of the costum ematerial or it may
be made more business-like by its
plain silk waist and tailored collar,
or again fit for a matinee by means
of it's lace waist dyed to match the
! gown.
Dyed lace of all kinds and all
of the day. The dying establishments
are making special efforts to exactly
match these new colors. but many of
the big dressmaking places have their
own dyeing places to get the best re-
suits, and it is thus possible to
change an old but unwOrn dress into
a seemingly new one by the aid of the
dye-pot The different widths of
tucks which are SO effectively dis
Played in these tinted nets give in
Vulnerable opportunities for variety
Some of these are quite. firm enough
to be braided with narrow soutache
bon of a narrow width is much used
for this decoration. In nearly every
case these blouses have bit of the
dress material stitched somewhere
upon them.
An effective model which was an
attractive combination of embroidery
on messaline was made along strictly
tailored lines. Wide bands Of the
embroidery extending down the front
had similar bands finishing the
sleeves. This blouse would be we'll
fitted to wear with strictly tailored
cloth suit. built Of one of the very
rough cheviots which are. so very
fashionable just now waist that
was intended for wear with a taupe
colored serge having a silky finish is
of tucked messaline and heavy lace
and high girdle of the serge The
body is of the tucked messaline with
a lower section of tinted lace which
extends from the waist line up and
! around the armhOles and again in the
sleeves Two short remnants could
thus be made up very effectively and
cheaply. So frequent is the use of
different materials in the newest
| dresses that many a bit of really beau
tiful material may be secured at the
bargain counters which in the other
counters could not be bought at all.
For house of evening dresses satin
soft finished silks and broadcloth in
a light weight are preferred. Many
of the lightweight broadcloths are to
be found in printed designs either
in an all-over or border pattern
The new pongees that have a satin
like finish are being much used for
| blOuses of this order as we'll as for
the One-piece gowns. A gown of this
sort might be developed with a skirt
Of one of the fashionable cuts, with a
blouse having yoke of tucked chiffon
to match and an over yoke encircling
it of embroidered lace. The waist
proper was made with a front and
back panel and shoulder pieces cut
| in one to which We're attached the
body portions and sleeves. Some of
| the softer ottoman silks or benga-
| lines would make up prettily in a
| similar style to this; and the coIors
to be chosen are many and a becom-
| ing one can surely be found among
the great variety shown this season.
pretty afternoon dress was OF
eggplant (purple) color, covered
with polka dots done in silk of the
same shade. The yoke was of self
colored net arranged in broad tucks
The bodice yoke was of black satin
embroidered in dark and light shades
of eggplant. The shoulder yoke was
tons and loops. both front and back
as was the skirt made in D:rectoire
style. with the left side plated in
panel effect. A girdle draped in soft
folds of black satin completed this
attractive costume
The princess skirt of the present