New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1909-10-10

season is the chiffon or net blouse Of the same
color as the skirt and coat costume ii is TO be
worn with This is generally made over
white lining, and often has hretelles OF the
material Of which the skirt is composed extend
ing over the shoulders. and thus producing fur
Their unity 10 the costume The skirt in most
cases is worn outside the waist. and is cut two
or three inches above the normal waistline.
This produces the effect Of a princess costume,
and as on occasion a white lingerie waist can
be substituted for the costume waist, it can
readily be seen how excellent and economical a
style this is.
Sleeves for these waists intended to be worn
with the tailored suit are long, and in most in
stances quite tight fitting from shoulder TO wrist
The exception To this rule is in the more elab-
crate styles of waists, intended for special occa-
sions Here one finds the sleeve in two sections
one Of the same material as the body Of the
garment covering the upper arm and the other
of the transparent material which forms the
yoke extending from elbow to wrist. There are
a great many clever ideas used in the shape of
these sleeves. and i'm style they very nearly ap-
proNimate the styles of sleeves shown in the
handsome afternoon and evening costumes. Some
of the most dressy of these waists show sleeve
that comes slightly below the elbow, but this
length is the exception rather than the rule.
One Of the prettiest ideas for the decoration
of the chiffon waists is the posing of the trim
ming under this flmy material Sometimes it is
figured white lace that really takes the place
of a lining; in other instances it is a gold or
silver lace embroidery that is thus dscreetly
yelled by the colOred chiffon. Then. again there
arc lovely embroidered nets. voiles and other
transparent materials. These are embroidered
in self-color or with \ gold or silver dot about
the size of a 1O-cent piece
sc f., To-.
as it is in all kinds Of costumes this season
This is of lace. fine figured net or tucked or
shirred not. One OF the newest materials for
this transparent yoke is a fine gold tue, which
serves the purpose that silver and gold lace does
FOR the more elaborate costumes.
The newest shape for the yoke is a long arch
effect, though there just as good styles shown
in the pointed and round yokes Indeed. there
IS a great diversity Of shapes in yokes and the
individual woman must he exceedingly hard u
please who cannot this season find exactly the
style in waist and yoke that is most becoming
to her
The styles in waists shown in the shops Of
New York approximate closely those seen in
Paris. and, indeed, go a little further for there
is one particular style Of waist here that is sell
dom seen in Paris, yet which is frequently
spoken OF with admiration by the French women
and that is the tailored styles in linen and
madras. one secs, 10 be sure. any quantity Of
what is called shirt styles in blouses on the
other side, but they Gar from being the plain
tailored variety much beloved by the school
and college girl in this country. They are mostly
OF a sheer linen or cotton material and are ex-
ccedngly dainty and attractive, too. The most
severe styles in these are made with tucks Of
varying widths extending from shoulder to belt
and the sleeves are tucked 10 conform 10 the
body Of the garment. But nine times out of ten
the front of the waist is ornamcnted with a side
frill of the material that is plated and extends
from throat 10 belt The edge of this friu is
either hemstitched finished with a scaIIoped
embroidery, which may be worked in white or
color 10 suit the taste OF the individual wearer
This side frill Is very pretty, very becoming
and very feminine, but, Oh how soon does 1t
lose its pristine freshness when worn under a
coat. II is for this reason probably that the
American woman likes her frills and iabots
separate from the waist. And while some of the
side fril shirt waists are shown here some Of
the more astute importers have had the waists
made without the frilI. but 50 that they can be
buttoned on the front when desired. Then again.
the Partisan shirt has frls about the hands
or dainty little turnback cuffs finished with the