The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-03-26
E%AAn THE SPRING GOWNS
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latest New York Models Quite HTaiIor Made" in Outline : Heavy Embroidery Coming Into Vogue

NOW that the eye has become accus- \ toned to the slender outlines oi skirts and sleeves, we can smile at the exaggeration of description with which these styie-changes were heralded, and the caricature drawings supposed to rep resent some of the advance models. Ii was with the same ridicule, and 1t seems around skirts and balloon sleeves of, per haps, 16fteen years ago were introduced and if we compare the fashion plates oi the two periods we must admit that 1908 shows a decided advance in the way oi beauty and good taste.
 - A fitted sleeve is not necessarily tight rs1ccvc; 1t may follow the contour of the appearance. Not so much the sleeve as the waist-line has. been the troublous question of the Empire models. Every description. accents the so-called hip les" :fgurc, and when your mirror shows the possession of very evident hips, you feel these gowns are not for you.
 There may be protest at the sug- eestion for increasing the size of the waist, but that is a part of the plan which, if carried out, will prove its own wisdom. The same arguments of in creased waist measure were used when fhe straight-front line was introduced into the corset, but the result was such general hgurc improvement that that feature.was forgotten.
 Remember. that the waist-line Is not the entire figure, and that generally symmetrical effect Is to be preferred to . fixed waist-measure- This much of good work in the cause of good looks has the Empire vogue done, though 1t re- Quired demonstration to prove 1t. In stead of stout woman getting herself into costume or coat that curves in at A~>-. I<.- -xt. sible waist, then out again to full round hips, let out the corset until the line Is q gradual, not a sharp curve, and have the garment fit easily. If you will look at figure in what is known as semi fitted coat, where the waist-ine Is only suggested, not defined, you will recognize a nearer approach to slenderness than had seemed possible.
 Ehe High waist-Lins
 Skirts cut with the high waist-line are becoming more popular every day. They must be mounted on gird1e foundation that fits closely, but the skirt portion Is not Iarted in to snug fit; 1t hangs cas- fly, from the top of the. girdle support. When an outside girdle of ribbon or silk IS used; 1t Is drawn snugly at the upper edge. but left moderately loose at the lower, which is really the regulation waist-line. Though the Empire gown proper Is long enough to lie on the ground all around, this length is imprac-; tieable for any but gowns for indoor wear. The shorter lengths are not ,awk- ward, though theaverage walking length this season Is somewhat longer than last year. the skirt just escaping the ground evenly ali around
 Nor IS the width so great, and gored skirts are more often seen than plaited models. Where suit formerly meant two pieces-Sa skirt and coat-the popu- lar form now is called "three-piece cos itume," with waist, skirt and coat match ing. The waist is not necessarily of the Same material as the skirt nor need 1t sbe actually attached to it.
 Net dyed in all the staple co1ors is perhaps first favorite for waists It har-
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