Ottumwa tri-weekly courier. [volume] (Ottumwa, Iowa) 1903-1916, 1909-04-06

of satins and satin-fnished woolcns.
Cotton crepes, too, will follow the lead
of the handsome silk crepes, being made
up into handsome gowns for the spring.
These weaves, from the richest silk to the
most inexpensive cotton, are ideal.
Poplins and their near relative,
pique, are used for both children's and
ladies' costumes, and in cotton fabrics
of this substantial weave the three-piecc
costume will develop capitally, the coat
being cut long and trimmed with self
strappings and pearl buttons. Some
probably be confined principally to chill
ativcly new, especially the designs that
alternate solid color with floral
stripe, both on a white ground, There
are the cotton tissues, some of them a
woven combination of the finest cotton
and silk, and with stripes and dots of the
silk thrown up OH the dull ground.
Soutache is being pushed somewhat
into the background now by the rat-tail
braid which Paris and New York dress
makers are putting on smart spring
gowns. This new rat-tail braid is much
more supple and pliable than soutache
and more intricate embroidery effects
may be achieved with it. Its pure white,
satiny lustre is very effective in this case
with costume of white self-striped mo-
hair. The plain, straight lines of this
gown are extremely smart and the heavy
cord ornament at the front is new
feature
The jaunty linen and mohaif two
piece suits now being built by custom
tailors for summer wear show very
straight lines which define the figure
scarcely at all. All the new linen coats
fare quite long, coming to the knee or
below, and the skirt beneath is very
simply cut. in a gored model Soutache
embroideries make smart trimming for
the linen or mohair coat and skirt suit,
and in the case of washable suit the
soutache should be we'll shrunken before
being sewed to the fabric.
The Medieval Mode
The ecclesiastical styles borrowed from
the Middle Ages show stoles, surplices
and other vestment effects brilliantly
wrought with iridescent beads, sequins
and the like. The embroidered net
stoles, or "tabliers," on the pink satin
ball gown shown in the illustration ave
laced together with fine gold cords and
l lilC SiDl oIlSllCS di z iS'iiS Will iihSoSSiil
pink beads in round and oblong shapes,
the flowers being made of silver and gold
ribbons padded into relief effect. Over
the shoulders, back and bust are garlands
of pale pink and gray-blue silk roses
The peacock gown shown here derives
its name from the pale peacock blue cob
or of this gown, and the embroidered
| motif like a spread peacock tail at the
end of the train. The material is bcn-
galne silk in the light blue-green pea
cock tone and there are appliques and
embroidered patterns in bronze browns
and darker peacock blue. and green
shades. The "alms bag" hung at the
side by long chains of silk cord, is de-
cidedly new style feature, just coming
out in Paris
The most extreme features of the new
medieval mode, which is prophesied
as follower of the Directoire fashions,
are embodied in the costume shown here
with. Here is the long, fitted basque
with panel-pleated skirt below it; the
square neck and close shoulder line; and
notably the elaborate embroidery done
with silk and soutache braid On net
| This gown, walking costume ut re-
soda green mohair, has train Attach
ment which, when fastened to the drop
skirt by means of snap catches, changes
the little walking dress into a trailing
afternoon frock.