davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1909-08-24
House fly time.

". w. ollVer ana family and
and Fred Blume and family de-
parted Saturday for Custer.
Last week Len. Peck bought
the Henry Bradbury residence
and real estate in the west end
of town.
Married-At Salmon City on
Saturday evening, Aug. 14th,
Miss Maggie Sinner and Mr.. Linn
Fowler.
Arthur Wilcox last week sold
to John Oiler, of Fort Robinson,
Neb., 40 acres of his farm near
Challis, for So8O.OO, or at rate
of S22.O0 per acre.
Tile State Board last week in
creased the valuation of all mer-
chandise in Custer county 10 per
cent, and the value of smelters
were increased Is per cent.
Joe Hill informs US that he has
purchased VIM. Eddy's ranch at
a rate of $1,000 per acre, for all
the land that will be flooded by
the big reservoir on Challis
creek.
Wouldn't that jar you ? Gust
er county's new pay deputy game
warden is a resident of Bear
Lake county, and will reside
there. His name is A. G.. Rich
ards. Ever hear of him? Well, he
is reported a good Mormon. He
will use a long distance telescope
to protect the game and fish of
Custer county.
DR.. J. G. Leonard, the pioneer
dentist, with his two mules
Peggy is dead-passed through
town the fore part of last week
for Stanley to hunt and fish. He
comes from Gilmore, but says
that the bear are too thick for
him there, as two large bruin
were chased through the streets
of that active camp by dogs just
before he left.
Our old soldiers who attended
the Grand Encampment at Salt
Lake, have all returned except
Jas. H. VanCamp, who is visit
, ing a few days with relatives al
Zion. Those that have returned
R. N. Hull, Steve VanCamp
IT. ]. Kerr, L. H. Johnston, Ed
O'Neal, Cy. Jones, julius Blume
and ]. G.. Fox, report splendid
time. but say it was awful hot
about 10000 outside people were
in attendance.
Loraine's dog show met with {
bad accident in Cronk canyOl
while on their way to Salmon
A large rock from the high clit
above loosened and rolled dow
in the road in front of the ligh
covered wagon that carried tn
trained dogs. The horses be
came frightened and plunged OF
the high bank into Salmon river
taking with them the wagon AM
dogs and the manager OF tn
show, who was driving. At thi
place the water is deep. Th
team soon drowned, and two o
the best dogs that were boxed i
the wagon, and Mr.. Lorraine ha
a close call. The horses an
wagon were still in the river O
Friday last.
A new crew of surveyors hav
ioined the P. & G. railroad SUI
veyors, who are now surveyln
for a railroad from Salmon t
Challis. They are now about 2
miles this side of Salmon Cit
coming up Salmon river. The
are making very careful SUI
vev, and often go back and ru
over the line three or four times
They are mapping the survey
figuring yardage, bridges an
cross sectioning. When they ge
through the company can at one
, let grading contracts. "A rellaol
marty from Salmon last week II
formed US that the G. q F., Q
~. !, fnun1s nOu
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1909-08-24
LOCAL NEWS ITEMS.



custer several days last week on
business.
FIFTY men are now EMPLOYED
by the Greyhound Mining Com.
pany at Seafoam.
Chas. Jenson and wife return
ed last week from a visit at Salt
Lake and Sandy, Utah.
Mrs. f. Nickerson and eldest
daughter, Kate, returned Friday
evening from Salt Lake. Miss
Kate went down to consult an
eye specialist.
Chas. Breyer from Atlanta is
visiting with relatives here He
lost his wife and child last spring
by being burned in the fire which
destroyed his residence.
just before going to press we
learn that Clerk, Henderson. is
sued a marriage license yester-
day to Vim. Bradshaw and Ros-
emma Webb of Clayton.
A party from here composed
OF the Misses Smutz, Solon Clark
and Sheriff Roberts and daugh-
ter, departed last week for Red
Fish lake on a pleasure trip.
Mrs. Pushaw and Axel Olson
have rented the Challis House.
and will take charge on Sept. l..
Mrs. Pushaw has closed her gen
eral merchandise store in the
Millick building.
Several little children have
been very sick here recently, but
all well now, viz: Joseph Bras
seur, Irene Drake, Margaret
Reed, and one of Mr.. and Mrs.
Glennon's little daughters.
Those who registered for the
land drawings at Flathead, SpO
kane and Ceur d'Alene, from
this section of Custer county
were successful. Those who reg
istered from this west part o.
the county were Billy Peck, Mai
Womacl1s, Henry Duffy, George
MCGOWAN and Clayton Williams
At the Spokane land drawing
there were II claims to be drawn
and there were 10000 people reg
iStered for the drawing.
| W. G. Sweet and wife return
ed last week from Seattle, where
they visited the fair. They als(
visited at Spokane, C9ur d'Alen'
City, Harrison and Wallace. Mr.
Sweet called at the hospital IL
Spokane, and saw VIM. Pryor
who was so badly injured in
wreck on the Spokane electric
line recently. He says Mr.. Pryo
is badly injured both legs brok
en-, and it will be necessary t.
amputate one foot. Mr.. Pryo
did not lose an eye, as first re
ported.
The State Game Warden say'
that he has finally appointed
deputy game warden for Custe
county, and his name is A. u
Richards, and his bondsmen ar
Perry Basenger and VIM. Neal
Not any of the above named per
sons are known in Custer coun
ty. 1t is said that A. q. Rlch
ards is a resident of Bear Lax
county, and is good Mormon
and will draw his salary and en-
force the game laws as deput,
game warden of Custer cOunt.
and at the ssme time reside L
Bear Lake county. Now, don
look queer that there are no tie
publicans in Custer county Il
for the appointment, and tina
the Custer county game waroe'
must be a resident OF some oehe
county d? What protectlon VII
Custer county game receive iron
a warden residing in Bear Lax
county {? Our warden might a
well live back in Maine. I'm
people have right IN Ousee
county to be indignant at sue
an annointment. 1t is simply
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-21

cloth costume The band of black satin
outlining the bodice part gives a firm
ness and finish. go that again the yoke
may be made detachable. The Irish
lace of stock and yoke has been GRO
cheted in one-so much more artistic
than the scanning process-and this, too.
ties down under the arms.
The blouse below, on the seated fig
ure, is in crepe de chine and OF Bor
deaux red. The yoke. which is fastened
to the blouse. is a cream French lace.
the collar being appliqued down over
the yoke. once more obviatlng the dis
tinct neck line. The model is a par
ticularly suitable one to develop for
mourning wear in black: hand-tucked
crepe de chine should be chosen, held
by a plain fold to q yoke of closely
tucked net The severity of the square
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-21
STOCKS AND YOKES OF PARIS MAKE

yoke line lends itself to well-chosen
mourning
The lower standing model is in prune
chiffon with coarse cluny lace dyed to
match The yoke. stock and sleeves
which again are separate-are made OF
deep cream dotted net.
One very prevalent idea in late yoke
models Is this melting in of the collar
to the yoke SO that the distinct joining
line is less visible: it is frequently &C.
complished by the cutting out of the
lace pattern on the collars edge,
which is then Tapped down over the
yoke material. Whenever the bodice
section 10 detachable from the yoke
1t is a noticeable fact that it's upper
edges are SO adorned with a fold or
galloon band as to prevent it's losin:
shape.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-21
New Mode in Lingerie

"HE latest touch for lingerie is to
have cherry ribbon bows to fasten
= UP the dainty garments instead of
the old familiar baby blue and pale
pink. This is a very decided change and
one that indicates a complete reyolu-
ton in the general dressing of the par
ticular woman. Where before she at
tempted to wear only feminine gar
ments of the soft shades, she now would
not think of wearing the plain white
gown without some touch Of splashy
embroidery.
AS you see. she carries out the idea
even to her dainty bits of lingerie.
Light shades are far too quiet. Some
thing really definite must be worn, and
while all Of the embroidered undergar.
ments are quite simple and trimmed only
with hand embroidery Or a band Of real
valenciennes lace. the color of ribbons
makes up for lack of feminine frills and
furbeloWS.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-21

invest in a new Easter bonnet. for the
old one has already been worn out.
When you buy a new hat for this year
you will be perfectly safe to buy the
cloche shape, the kind that comes down
on the head. giving the effect of high
crown and no brim. You have been
familiar with this style for the past few
months. made up in fur. usually lynx or
fox. but now the time has come to wear
the same shape made up of flowers. OF
these. faded roses and violets seem to
be the most popular and the most effect
i've. although bluets or any other small
flower would look just as well.
Suzanne Talbot. OF Paris. is sending
over to the milliners OF this country
many new hats Of this type. and among
them is beige straw with an entire
crown made of one mass of silk roses in
shades Of pink. For spring hat to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-21
Making the Un1ined Coat

IF THE critical observer has ever cast
a yearning glance in the direction of
i the half-long. unlined coat on the
passerby, with the unspoken COM
ment. There! I could almost accom-
plsh one Of those myself" let 1t be
urged upon the yearner that she really,
truly can: for, after all, the willingness
to do and the desire to possess are two
thirds of the battle. Now, here Is the
other third, SO why not, eventually. the
finished coat? Assuming that the one
who could almost" make the coat is not
sufficiently experienced to cut the pat
tern, it is safer to advise the buying Of
it. The novice should not be led away
by a pattern of intricate design, but
should choose with discretion the only
one she could venture upon with some
degree of cheerfulness-a whole or 4
two-piece back, two fronts. plain sleeves
and a collar.
A whole garment of lining lawn, in
Guiding sleeves and collar. is cut out,
basted and fitted. After every unneces-
sary bit OF goods has been pinched
away. leaving whatever is necessary for
a perfectly easy fit. the lower edges OF
coat and sleeves are sioped. the collar Is
fitted most carefully and the seams are
trimmed to a width of an inch and a
half.
This lawn garment is not lining for
1.-The unlined coat but cautiouary
measure, to be used only as an accurate
and fitted pattern for the coat. which.
when cut out and basted together, should
now very nearly fit.
Whether the coat material be rough
tweed for travelling white serge for the
oro|1 rai oh sill 20
same rule holds good. The only can
vas used is a lightweight piec, last d
along the back of the neck for epth
the front Of the neck and extending lin
a strip four inches wide) down the front
edges Of the coat, q two-inch piece round
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-21

wear with a tailored suit there could be
no better style than a coarse tussor hat
OF this same cloche shape faced with
black chip and trimmed with a satin
braid about five inches wide held in the
middle of the front with a tiny black
velvet bow and two tassels. 1t is easy
to see from the description of these two
hats exactly what style will be worn
during the early spring by the woman
who knows Just what to wear The
hats. as you see. will all Of them set we'll
on the head. will have high crowns and
will be trimmed with metal gauze
For automobiling the most charming
poke bonnets are shown, the kind that
tit the head SO nicely that no wind can
disarrange them. Indeed. indications are
that. for summer weather. we will have
the most artistic hats that we have had
for long time.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-21

the lower sleeve and a collar lining.
The neck canvases are basted in place:
the coat seams are basted together, and
half inch is cut off of the outer edge
OF each front canvas strip before the
coats front edges are turned back over
the canvas
The seams are Sewed and may be stitch
ed once on the outside as a finish; the
final under treatment of them is care
full turning together and pressing. After
the seam sleeves are sewed. the canvas
-basted in below and the sleeves edge
turned back over it, the sleeve is placed
in the coat. Its successful fit and much
OF the general appearance of this un-
padded coat depend upon a little trick:
an under bias facing which holds the
raw edges of the sleeve back against the
coat. and two rows Of outside stitching
which hold this facing and give the arm
hole and the shoulder desirable firm
ness.
The collar is now basted on to the
canvas. which is cut a little smaller. so
that the material may be turned over
the edge. After this collar is fitted into
place and sewed on, a facing of the ma
terial is slip-stitched against it's wrong
side; collar and coat edges are stitched
on the outside after a bias facing is
basted along the wrong side or the
coats front and lower edges. The
sleeves edge is treated in the same way.
The only lining required is a small sec
ton cut to fit round the neck and shout
oers: il covers the canvas and is slip
stitched into place.
The points given are for the accurate
construction of a simple skeleton coat.
Buttonholes. if any, are to be positively
tailor otherwise braid loops or
ornamental frogs may fasten over the
buttons. Cloth-covered or home-deco-
rated braid buttons will be chosen, ac-
cording to the material and soutache
will be suitable braiding for the pongee
coat
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-21
Spring Hats

CPRlNG weather is approaching and
it is more and more important to
- decide what kind of a hat to buy.
so that Easter will not come and find us
unprepared Speaking Of Easter, can
you remember the time when every one
waited until that day to don her straw
hat? Now it Is quite different The first
OF March. regardless of the church
calendar. brings out many summer cha
peaux, and, indeed, when real spring
time comes 1t is almost necessary to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-21
CONCERNING CHAPEAUx

The duel engaged in in Paris between
the large hats and the toques has spread
to the Riviera, and one cannot tell which
has the advantage. In place of fur. vel
vet and silk. hats are being made OF
straw. Of erin and OF tulle. One finds the
little upset hats of the busby variety.
but they are Of straw in black and
white, draped with taffeta or with braid.
The garniture Is usually about the same
--aigrettes. ostrich plumes or long sup
pie quilts. Here is hat with large VEL
vet flowers in soft tones. grouped at the
side CT the crown; there is one with q
little touch of artificial fruit. In truth,
1 believe, just the same. that 1t 10 the
large hats which will win in the end. II
they are thrown out of the window they
will surely return by the door.
ELOISE
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-21
Spring Neckwear

TN THE spring showing there seems
to be no diminution OF popularity in
the line of jabots and other funy
neckwear. 1t is SAID, and it is doubtless
true, that the Dutch neck will remain
the first favorite in the eyes OF the sum-
mer girl. but when she is forced by
stern necessity to wear the high collar
with her tailored suit she will turn TO
the hand-embroidered and slightly tint
ed bow of linen. or she will wear
graceful arrangement OF baby Irish lace.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-21

~URROUNDED. as we are, by pre-
dictions Of a dropped waist line.
~ fuller skirt and a slightly fuller
sleeve; with discussions ringing in
our ears about ne returning lingerie
hlouse and the ,earance of the plain
shirt in white linen. it behooves US to
chat a little on these mooted questions
before we attack the yoke and stock.
womankind "dles hard" on the lin
gerie blouse question. and will welcome
even a predicted revival OF that lovable
little garment 1t has appeared in Paris
in embroidered cotton wolfe. but with no
very certain foothold. The tailored shirt
waist IL developed in sheer linen, and it
is to be doubted IL 1t were possible for
women TO gown themselves without this
now necessary addition to the ward
robe. Widening skirts, about which
there has been such a howl. may
simmer down to "a slightly increased
width" In Paris the high-waisted
skirt still prevails in tailored cloth.
in velvet and in satin. though its
death knell Is sounded on every
hand.
The long, close sleeve. refusing to
be enlarged to any appreciable ex-
tent stands firm, and is the one point
common to all gowns of varying line.
YOKE CONSTRUCTION
Blouses repeating the color note Of
the costume were natural outcome
of the high-waisted skirt, and so
long as the blouse of colored material
general and in particular. AS
whole. laces and tulle have not been
improved upon except. perhaps. in
more elaborate Gowns for occasions
where silver and gold tissues have
replaced the palmer fabrics. Slight
variations in their construction are
noticeable
On the first figure to the left of our
drawing is a smoke gray chiffon
cloth entirely tucked by hand; a line
OF gray satin Joins the round yoke
permanently to the bodice section.
White satin shinmers through, and
white tulle is the lining chosen for
the gray dotted tulle yoke and stock.
This doubled net is a very acceptable
idea from one of the smart shop. in
the Rue de la Paix
The second. an afternoon gown.
shows a combination of dyed lace and
satin and hand-tucked chiffon, all in
the same shade Of blue. The bodice
part slips on separately over a detach-
able guimpe with sleeves.
There is no more satisfactory ,-
rangement for yoke than the soma
rate guimpe tied down with ribbons a,
the waist line.
The third model is a satin blouse in
bottle green. repeating the color OF tho
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-21
A French Yoke

RECENT French yoke. planned
n to eliminate the lower collar line.
was so cut that collar and yoke
were one piece of firm tulle. with tiny
hand tucks let in perpendicularly
around the collar, and radiating from
there down into the yoke. where they
gradually sloped out into the plain ma
terial.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-21
Ale tier from
Paris
PARIS, Feb. II.

w YHEN the haute monde de.
M parted for the Riviera they
left during the reign OF the
empire style. when the gowns were
long and straight of line, sleeves were
tight. and what sashes there were
were placed high above the natural
waist line. But when the fashionabiss
return In the early spring they will ind
decided change in the costumes, for
the style OF the Middle Ages has 70.
turned. and Paquin is trying strenu-
ous'y to launch robes a paniers" with
pointed bodice and with underskirts Of
immense width.
The natural waist line will be In
Dictated by the slope of the material.
and a sort OF stomacher. which begins
at the bust and extends below the hips,
will make a belt unnecessary.
For afternoon gowns the semi-empirs
at the moment is still holding its popu-
larity. and the tunic is gaining al
ways. As to materials, cashmere de
sole gives ravishing effects. while OF
toman adds much to the elegance of
certain gowns. although. excepting for
the princess robes, it is employed by
preference for paletots to hang over
supple skirts OF satin.
SEVERAL NOVEL TOUCHES
Guimpes Of lace have generally re.
placed the guimpes of tulle These last
in reality have become vYlgarized by
the magasins des nouveautes. and the
truly elegant have renowned them.
When one wears tulle it is not white,
but it matches the gown. In some
cases point d'esprit will form the new
guimpes. but more frequently baby Irish
will be used. for it harmonizes beau
tiful1y with any kind Of gown.
For evening gowns fancy will have Q
liberal course to follow. One looks for
the unexpected. for the original. There
Is variety in the material, in the cut, in
the trimming. One may try to attain .
personal note. At the salon each enter
tainment offers a changing spectacle
new details. surprising combinations and
unprecedented effects. I assure you.
mesdames, that have discovered prog
ress over preceding years.
The success of the season lies In the
use of tissues-the silk chiffon placed
over the satin of different shade. One
admires the richness OF the emerald
green yelling the black. the rose pink
shadowins the pearl gray-combina-
tions which lend themselves SO perfectly
TO the beauty Of the blonde. And the
mousselines painted. embroidered and
incrusted with jewels are marvellous.
Let us note the vogue of the braiding,
the arrangement of passementerie, the
return to favor Of jet, which, after its
temperance in big beads on the hat.
finds itself on embroidered gowns Jet
ornaments are also used as pendants
on evening gowns, and nothing, to my
idea, is more favorable to grace a be-
coming decolletage.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-02-21

and another with a single front LAGER
(Which is meant to be frightened at
WILD, fastens a little to the left side
Of the front with clasps.
One scientific model has a soft belt
supporting the abdomen. This belt in
turn is held in place by an elastic strap
across the back.
Now, the least strenuous Of these
methods should be employed for the
weary mother whose carriage Is not
SO youthful as she could wish. and
the same persuasive means for the
i'll woman who again asserts herself
in favor of a restored youth.
GENTLER MEANS
There are persons with whom one
does not argue in favor of harsh
abdominal pressure they could not
stand. but only for the gradual devel-
opment Of more graceful and more
erect figure. An improved carriage
cannot fail to benefit the general
health, which will. in time. return
the favor.
A corset that does not bend in at
the waist line will do much toward
relieving the pressure on the abdo-
men-a painful pressure OF corset
and skirt. A very slight downward
pull by the front elastics worn with
one Of the front-straightening cor
sets will undoubtedly help to reduce
the abdomen.
Many OF these corsets are made for
the very purpose OF lifting the alb
domfnal organs into their places,
which are upward and toward the
back
1t must positively be borne in mind
that the corrective corset for this alb
dominal degeneration should. at the
same time, be of perfect proportions
at every other point and that it may
require refitting and darting as the
abdomen recedes.
If there is any one popularity of
figure more insistent than the others
in its demand for the services of cor
set and health specialist 1t Is this en-
largement of the abdomen.