davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24
Handsome Bags for Practical Uses

tial leather lined handles The same
model is used for rather elaborate
bags of grained lavender calf and black
patent kid made over rose gold olive
frames All patent kid bags of roonny
Innings of red, tan, blue or taupe mo-
rocco. There are also attractive look
ing affairs in imitation sealskin or
walrus lined with soft leather, or
buffed calf alligator in brown, taupe
and gray lined with bright pelt, and or
vachette and saffian with self-covered
frames, handles and Innings.
a ATINEE and carriage bags are
w more than ever ornate. as gold
and silver cloth enter so largely
into their construction. Some OF the
most attractive looking bags In metal
cloth are effectively decorated with
ribbon embroidery of the Louis XVI
period, have fiat bottoms inset with
beveled edged mirror and are equipped
with two tiny receptacles composed OF
gold beads and designed to hold change
and a powder puff.
Suede bags inIaid with mother OF
pearl in contrasting colors are tafeta'
and vanity mirror set under an or
namenta1 flap. Some very smart look
ing bags in walrus leather made over
extension frames are equipped with
gilt metal locks and keys, are lined
with moire silk Of delicate shade and
are fitted with two large interior pock-
cts, with silk elastic shirred upper
edges, designed to accommodate sill
yer card case. change purse, vinaigrette
and silver backed mirror.
Fancy frames are used for the more
expensive matinee and carriage bags.
Sometimes one or more large bits of
amethyst, turquoise, fresh water pearl
or coral are sunken into richly chased
or repousse hammered metal frames
with pierced edges to which fresh
bag can easily be attached. Many of
these bags are Of carved or decorated
wooden heads In colors matching the
jeweled ornamentation Of the frame.
frequently beads of rather large size
and OF various colors are mingled with
others of crystal, silver and gold.
Another type of matinee and carriage
bag Is equipped with ribbon draw
strings instead of with chain handles
attached to metal frame. 1t is made
of brocaded silk, chamois lined and
fitted with interior pockets for opera
glasses, purse and vanity mirror of
tablet shape filled with face powder
sheets
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24

EAF gold kid is one Of the handker-
chief pocket materials which ap-
peals strongly TO the fancy Of
school girls. The convenient little
pockets are made up on metal frames
IN the fashionable oRlong shades and
are almost as fat as an envelope, yet
have an outside aperture. These re-
ceptacles are equipped with a small
change purse with duplicate compart-
ments for bank notes, bills and fat
manicure tools. The same design is
developed in rajah of natural tone and
dark colors, in gold or silver cloth, in
pigsl1in and in levant leather. In
English morocco are substantial hand
kerchief pockets with rounded bottoms
and sqEare tops. They close at one
side with flap OF gilt, silver or gun
metal
A novelty in handkerchief pockets
lately brought from Paris is in the
form OF a crush suede bag having suede
covered single handles attached to a
gold bracelet Other wrist bags Of
this order are Of gold and silver tricot
knitted in chevron pattern, of genuine
gold and aluminium mesh. of fine jet
webbing, Of seed pearls and of tiny
dark red beads woven and mounted
with silver. OF the same order are
handkerchief bags Of silk embroidered
with cut beads, fastened with a dime
sized jet button and swung BY jet
chain from jet bracelet: of fine suede
suspended by five inch straps of leather
from an extension metal bracelet of
black leather. dark hued patent kid
and dull red English morocco attached
to bracelets Of matching material and
OF gun metal mesh equipped with a
gun metal chain and bracelet. Rafia
bags Of this character have leather
trimmings. and one unique model has
tiny open pockets attached to frame
Of colored leather.
Solely for the house are handkerchief
pockets Of hand embroidered white
butchers linen in envelope and hatiron
shape. Of two motifs of fiiet. Irish or
italian lace joined at three sides. top
closed with a crochet button and sus-
pended by. a twisted linen cord and OF
*ricorne shape made Of fancy silk. rib
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24

bon bound and handled
Oval and round shapes prevail among
shopping bag novelties. A practical
model in reindeer pelt. which comes in
all the fashionable street suit shades.
is exceedingly capacious and fitted with
twin purses of matching leather. A
large balloon shape bag is equipped
with five inner purses for coin, cards,
jewels. powder puff and bank notes re-
spectively. These five purses are Of
graduated size, set one within another,
and attached to side bars extending to
the inner hinged points of the bag
frame proper.
Among suede bags are some Of bas-
ket shape, embossed in wicker effect
and equipped with glace leather han
dies and interior purses. Some of the
balloon order. made over metal frames,
are decorated with jet nails or small
jet ornaments, which are quite effec-
tive against the natural tint of the
suede.
In pigskin are bags with tiny bot
toms lined and fitted with tiny coin
purses and card cases of the fashion
able red morocco, and a somewhat
similar model is developed in black
patent kid, India seal and English
morocco. They are lined with black.
taupe or prune leather. have two strap
handles and are ornamented with a
large gilt initial in old English type.
Sometimes these attached initials or
monograms are in metal frame of from
one and half to three inch dimen-
sions
In the fashionable brown shades,
and especially in khaki. are leather
grain bags of oblong shape. They
have rounded corners and their frames
are concealed by extended side flaps.
which give them square appearance
at the top. Suede covered bags of
this order have soft. flexible edged
flaps set two inches from either side
of the top bar and fastened to it with
gold rivets. Some of the brown bags
have bound into the frame with the
leather a silk fringe, which is exactly
the length of the. bag and completely
covers it, while others have short
fringe knotted into the bottom and
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24

the sides. Also of the Sioux prder, and
quite effective, are the large machine
made bead bags finished with two inch
deep bead fringe of black and white,
min gled with gold and silver.
A feature of the autumn shopping
bag is the tab extending over the
leather metal covered frame from back
to front and equipped with an orna-
mentally etched or a plain metal name
plate for initial engraving.
The newest shopping bag handles
are of French snake metals. but a
great many of cord are employed. The
cord handles are in long double
ed, and owe much of their popularity
to the fact that they allow the bag to
swing more gracefully from the arm
than if it were suspended by a stiff
handle. Moreover. the cord may be let
out for it's entire length or knotted
into loop within a few inches of
the top.
Amethyst bids fair to be the fash
ionable shade for shopping bags dur
ing the coming winter. Next in favor
will be the mauve and violet tones,
then sea, olive and dark green's golden
brown and dark tans, taupe, pearl and
pale gray; few of the topaz tints
and the blue of the lapis lazuli.
Automobile and tourist bags are be-
ing made up in a variety of novel and
attractive feathers Hippopotamus
comes in brown, taupe. green and
gray; lowered morocco in black,
brown and wistaria; sheepskin of tor
toise grain in green, brown and two
shades of gray; mottled pigskin in
three distinct tones of tan and cowhide
of oriental grain in oxblood. black and
brown. These bags are of square and
oblong shape. with stiff or flexible bot
toms and morocco Innings of richly
toned red. blue, green and violet.
They have leather covered mount
ings and handles, or metal frames with
leather or chain handles. In the her
ringbone grain leather are smart look
ing bags of fiat, square shape appliqued
with patent kid, which, crossing the
ton of the frame. terminate in substan-
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24

the paper sachets- and those of more
elaborate styles, in lingerie, ETC., are
made for the sale, in which should be
included sachets for the corsage. for
sewing into gowns for the boudoir,
etc. A most attractive way to deco
rate elaborate sachets of silk, satin,
brocade or paper is to use a tiny
French engraving, bordering or franz
ing it in a narrow gold galoon.
In girls schools. whether boarding
or day schools, there are few more
popular ways of making money than
by candy sales. Here again is some
thing that every one wants and no one
minds spending the money for, as is
the case when at bazaars various arti-
cles of fancy work, odd knickknacks.
ETC., for which one has really no use
are thrust upon one. Candy sales are
not apt to be a success, however, un-
less the amateur sweetmeat makers
have had enough experience to know
how to make good candy at compare
lively little expense. In boarding
schools girls who wished to make
money for their charities have had sue
cess by making one special kind of
candy = old fashioned chocolate
creams, molasses candy, ETC., to order.
A notice posted in the hall to the effect
that the A B c society will make
cream chocolates. to order every Sat-
urday, at stated price, is usually all
that is necessary to call out sufficient
custom to keep the girls busy. This
method precludes the possibility of
any loss to the young candy makers.
yxrbap q CANDY SaIa is held If iS neces
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24
a Iss SERENA PLAcIDE is the
most delightful guest whom 1

x -
most delightful guest whom
have entertained this year"
observed the April Grandmother when
the last member of her week end party
had taken her departure. 81 begged
her to stop a month with us, but she
has more invitations than she can ac-
cept,. and quite naturally. too. as a
girl of the restful type is thoroughly
appreciated by hostesses of every age
and disposition. She does not lose her
temper, move abruptly or talk ex-
citedly, because she never permits her
self to get overfatigued;" vouchsafed
the April Grandmother. Yet, although
she does not voluntarily discuss her
ailments, she admitted to me that a
natural tendency toward nervousness
made it necessary for her to husband
: her vitality instead of recklessly ex-
pending it. No matter what may be
the temptation to forego a half hours
rest between breakfast and luncheon
and luncheon and dinner, she never
gives way to 1t, for she realizes that
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24

sary to have several kinds Of candy.
most of which should be homemade.
There is, Of course a possibility of
loss in this. but as a rule the money
can be more than got back by auc-
tion even if the sale falls on a rainy
day.
- NGLISH girls have found flower
auctions pleasant way of raising
money for their pet charities. The
auctions call for a fairly large at
tendance If they are to be amusing as
well as profitable. The promoters Of
the auction are put to no expense, and
the fees of admission may be arranged
to suit the prosperity of the patrons.
Every one who comes to the auction
pays an entrance fee and brings also
a flower wrapped in tissue paper and
completely concealed from view. The
single blossom, an entire bouquet or a
potted plant may be used Each person
auctions her own flower and does so by
holding. up her paper covered parcel
and quoting from some author, either
poet or prose writer. description of
the flower, not mentioning the name, of
course, or using a hackneyed or de-
tailed description which will reveal
the secret
Every person is then given chance
to guess what the flower is, and the
person who guesses correctly receives
the flower. If the entrance fee to
the auction is not considered sufficient
fee may be charged every person
who guesses at the auction of each
flower. This should be a small one. of
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24
The Latest IN Tailored Belts

TO accompany the tailored shirtwaist
of the college girl are belts of fine.
soft leather in attractive shades of
green, violet. blue and rose. The
leather strip is folded once, ornament
ed along. each edge with a fine design
In steel and joined with similarly
decorated leather covered buckle.
Suede belts are of crush width, fas-
tened with silver clasps, of narrow
strips of the -pelt laid over a silk band
of a contrasting hue or cut out in
treIlis design and unlined They fasten
blindly with hook or have pointed
flap end punctuated with a single col
ored stone.
Bronze leather belts with gilt
buckles are considered good style with
a tailored shirtwaist, as are also those
of silk rubber lightly studded with
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24

cut steel. equipped with cut steel
buckles. or a tailored auto leather with
a leather covered buckle
Patent leather belts are only smart
when severely tailored and closed with
buckles of copper or brass. Any at
tempt to embellish such belts gives
them an ordinary appearance. although
there are few attractive looking mod
els In white and black and black and
white.
Red belts are exceptionally popular.
They ere of English morocco, leather
and silk ribbing in brilliant carmine,
deep crimson and French rose. made
up in crush or stin style; tailored. cut
out or nail studded and arranged to
close blindly, or with large oval or
square buckles OF gun. gold or silver,
sometimes bearing a monogram.
Launderable belts are OF hand en-
broidered heavy linen with strap fronts
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24

and pearl buckles. and OF heavy cord.
crocheted and so shaped that they Mt
perfectly over the hips. Both types Of
wash belt are in white as well as in
the prevailing tones OF gray blue.
green and violet. and some OF them are
ornamented at the back with three
large buttons of dulled or polished
metal.
The most practical plan for a school
girl to adopt in regard to her belts is
to have several really handsome
buckles or clasps which may easily
be shifted from one strip OF leather of
ribbon TO another. There are most at
tractive buckles Of dun and oxidized
silver. delicately chased or elaborately
hand wrought: plain disks and narrow
ovals or squares OF FURNISHED gold and
French gray metals set with lapis la
zuli. cut amethysts and a variety OF
semiprecious stones
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24
'URPOSES
g., ;, s.

very disappointing. 1t is usually pos
sible for girls to secure gratis the use
of the school assembly hall or gym
nasium. or of some similar room in the
charitable institution which they wish
to benefit.
There is no necessity Of having
tickets printed. and announcements
may perfectly well be typewriter,
most girls being able to have this done
in the office of some masculine mem
ber of the family 1t has usually been
found also that the greatest success is
obtained where the sketch or play
selected to be performed requires the
simplest stage setting and such cos
tuning as may be achieved without
expenditure of much money or time,
1t is not wise either to select play
that is too difficult OF performance. be
cause this will be too much Of tax
upon the girls time
The rehearsal of the play is. OF
course, immense fun, as is the preDara-
tion of the costuming and stage set
ting. as long as nothing too taxing is
attempted.
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24

TT s for the performance itself. IL is
Il doubtful whether the cleverest
professional entertainment cousd
give more amusement to an audience
than does the average amateur dra-
matte presentation to the gathering OF
relatives and girl and boy friends. II
there are girls who make particularly
good candy this may be sold between
the acts. and at an afternoon perform
ance there may be tea and cakes.
Paper doll making is an industry at
which many young girls who have
some slight talent for drawing or
painting in water color will find that
they can make quite a large sum OF
money for their charitable work.
Patronage for this brand OF industry
must come from the little sisters and
cousins who are still interested IN dolls
or from their relatives and friends A
sale Of paper dolls and their wardrobe
will usually have plenty Of patronage.
If 1t is well advertised among a large
circle OF older people and children.
and the original cost will be slight.
Moreover. the dolls. II left over. can
be disposed of after the sale. so that
there is no possibility OF loss.
Hand painted paper dolls are con-
, sidered most durable by connoisssurs
in this line and almost all girls who
have the knack OF painting even lit
tie will be apt to possess sufficient ma
terials TO begin on. All sorts OF dolls
can be made. young lady dolls. fash
ionable matrons, in4ants. little girls
and boys. young men and older gentle
men, nurse maids, fat cooks, obse-
quious buffers, etc. The small fry in
terested in this sort of thing are not
hypercriticaI as to the artistic verify
of the paper doll individuals. provided
there is a good deal OF pink and white
prettiness and a sufficient number ON
costumes.
Each set of costumes may have a
trunk to go with it made OF a candy
box covered with brown paper and ap-
propriately painted. or II 1t is preferred
to keep the clothes in a wardrobe this
piece OF furniture may be made Of a
blank book with Sits cut in the pages
through which the costumes are thrust.
The sale of paper dolls and their
clothes should be very widely an
nounced for at least two weeks before
it is held and it should take place in
very convenient locality on a Saturday
morning or afternoon. Very simple
candy. such as the little girl patrons
may be permitted to eat. may also be
sold, and for the mammas and older
friends there may be other refresh
ments. This paper doll sale Is particu-
larIy attractive for the young girls
booth at some large bazaar. Naturally
it will have more custom there than
when held alone. A group OF girls
may also make a small steady income
for their pet charities by making these
dolls to order.
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24

"The sachets will be furnished in any
desired scent and in any colors. The
envelopes are of the usual proportions
or long and narrow. Orders will be
delivered one week after being re-
ceived.
'The Buds and Blossoms Circle.
Address MABEL PARKMAN,
Secretary and Treasurer,
Fifth avenue"
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24

These notices were typewritteen on
attractive note paper and sent through
the post to all the older sisters. moth
ers and other women acquaintance
of the members of the circle. Most
persons will be found willing to patron
ize such an effort, because the wares
offered are necessary to every woman
and the prices asked are no more than
those which are received for the same
articles in the shops. The scents must.
of course, be perfection, but 1t will be
found possible to, furnish a product of
the very best quality when the mate
rials are bought at wholesale and still
make a large profit.
To make the paper sachets the pow
velope a little smaller. than the outer
one. Around this is wrapped thin
layer of cotton. A piece of cardboard,
not too stiff, of the size of the smaller
envelope. may be inclosed with it to
give stiffness to the sachet.
ELoWERED crepe paper and the
Esmall, flower bordered doilies which
come in this material will also be
found useful for making odd shaped
envelopes.
If girls do not care to enter into a
plan which will have to be carried on
through the season. or at least for sew
eral weeks, but wish instead to make
some money by single affair, a sachet
sale may be substituted for the other
plan. This would, of course, last only
one afternoon or evening, and has been
found popular in girls schools. Both
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24

y Ne very good plan which has been
found to work well by a group of
schoolgirls in a large city is the
supplying OF sachets to women ac-
quaintances. This has many advan-
tages. one being that the time neces-
sary to prepare the sachets is very
small and another that the product is
marketable and continues to be so. the
customer usually remaining a steady
one.
In the instance referred to the
sachets were made by a group of girls
calling themselves the Buds and Bios
SONS Circle OF day nursery. The
girls procured their sachet powder from
p wholesale house. paying only whole
sale prices. The greatest care was TAX
en- in the selection and mixing of the
powder. There was no attempt to make
silk, brocade, or lingerie sachet bags,
which would take quite a good deal
Of time. but instead all the sweet scent
was placed in paper envelopes or cot
ton pads. as is done IN those sold at the
chemists. For violet sachets there were
deep violet envelopes. long and narrow
or square, tied with narrow gold cord
and sealed with a large violet or gold
seal. For rose there were rose flow
cred paper envelopes, made of wall
paper or lowered crepe paper. Moire
wallpaper tied with satin ribbon. sealed
with gold, made most attractive enve-
lopes. Striped wallpaper in pale blue
and white. tied with narrow rose rib
bon and sealed with rose wax made a
most attractive envelope for French
sachets.
It was great fun selecting the differ
ent papers, ribbons and wax, and the
making of the envelopes is an affair
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24

of a few minutes. A faithful search
ing of stationers' shops also revealed
many treasures in envelopes Of charm
ing hues which the stationer was glad
to be relieved of because of their nom
conformity TO the present style.
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24
"

wv HEN the envelopes in a sufficient
w quantity for a beginning had
been made the circle sent out no
tices announcing its desire for custom.
The scale of prices based on that cur
rent in the leading chemists shops and
perfumers' for envelope sachets of the
same scent was decided upon. These
sachets are usually bought by the
dozen or half dozen, as they are used
very freely by many women who prefer
to scatter them among their clothes
rather than to use scented pads for
their bureaus and boxes. The notices
sent out were'worded as follows:
For the benefit of the Sunshine day
nursery we are prepared to supply an
order of the very best quality sachets
in attractive paper envelopes at the
The San Francisco call., 1909-10-24

N recurs from time TO time to
Wv most young girls, for nova
DAYS almost all girls when
stu at school begin to take upon
themselves some responsibilities of
this sort II may be that the girls
connection with charitable effort is
through the junior organization of
hospital or day nursery.
Other girls help in various ways the
parish work Of the church of which
they are members. or perhaps it is
as a private benefactor that the girl
figures. But there are very few girls,
especially in the great cities, who are
not engaged in some activity of this
sort. and il is sometimes very difficult
to devise new methods for raising
money for these charities which viii
not be impractieabIe or too exacting
in point Of time.
So much is now demanded Of the
girl at school in the requirement Of
a sound education. as well as the
graceful accomplishments Of social
life. that there is really very little
time left to the schoolgirl beyond that
which is absolutely necessary for
healthful outdoor exercise. For this
reason girls like TO be able TO raise
their charity funds without too great
an expenditure of time. While bazaars
and other elaborate methods of raising
money may be resorted to once in
while it is only in holiday time that
the modern schoolgirl finds herself
able 10 devote much time TO elaborate
affairs OF this sort. Through the
larger part Of the school year she
hnds it necessary TO resort TO simpler
schemes for replenishing her charity
purse.