The Salt Lake tribune. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1890-current, 1909-06-20

NEW YORK, June 19-The one
piece gown is responsible for the great
er number Of coat styles which are
cropping out AS the ewather grows
warmer sleeveless wraps become more
and more general. Some of the hand
soonest poncee suits have coats Of this
kind, which are closed or open ut the
sides, according TO the whlm or tue
maker and the demand of the Wealer-
One seen this week was Of the chasu,
BILE pattern. with straight fronts and
back, open sides and sleeveless arms.
The sides were strapped across Win
narrow bands Of the shantung. me
latest dress wrap is the game scarf With
heavily embroidered, spangled or Jetted
ends and a shoulder piece attached
which falls over the tops of the arms.
In one such scarf this shoulder piece,
which must have been sort OF hali
circle in shape before 1T was se"ea
in, was of shirred gauze like the scarf.
Another OF similar Kind had a piece
that was embroidered all over like the
ends of The scarf Still another had
braided ends and 4 braided arm piece;
These arm pieces vary In shape ana
give decided wraplike air to an or
dinary shoulder throw.
With q smart tobacco brown sbantung
suit seen the other day there went
shirt waist Of brown and white striped
lawn with fine plated frills at neck and
front Waists OF this kind arc very
popular with colored suits. They are
made of lawn, madras, linen or SILK.
T'oulard is a good deal thought OF for
travelling and for morning wear. Some
waists have tho peclls, collars, trent
plaits and cuffs frilled with fine plait-
ings Of white net edged with the silk.
The corsclet dress holds its own, but
fine princess models are Just as popular,
and there are unmistakable signs OF n
return 10 the separate waist and skirt.
Thus far this latter effect has shown
itself in clever arrangements Of panels.
with belt or girdle TO break the line at
the sides, but this week there have
cropped up holder suggestions in cos
tunes having u shaped glrdlc cut III one
with the skirt panel. and the bodice
made 10 contrast: not In color, out
either in material or mode of trimming.
Still another now note has been sound
cd III the elaborate guimpe which fg
Urcs with u Jumper that is plain to the
point OF severity.
One of the pretty pannier gowns was
seen at 4 recent morning wedding.
The material WAS chestnut brown
mousseline de sole. made over brown
tatfeta OF the same shade. and the taf-
fcta also made the panniers, the little
uudulating ruching around the hem of
the skirt aud Louis XNl bodice Of
embroidered net. The paaniers we're
made of straight leugths of the silk
mounted in flat plaits 10 the girdle
aud extending IN long points nearly 10
the hem OF the skirt,
In the matter of color there is
strong preference for decided tones and
plsn effects, although ii cannot be
said that any one color predominates,
Stripes are extremely fashionable, and,
properly manipulated, arc fetching.
Plaids are announced in the running,
but beyond the shepherd checks, that
are sometimes over plaidcd. they are
not strong except as trimmings. Per
haps the most striking point that can
be made just now is that while IN the
majority of models contrasts are en-
ployed, the continuity of general ef-
feet, if not of line, rs carefully pre-
served.
IF proof were lacking that the one
piece dress was in danger of being
ousted from the front rank. 1T could
be found in the large number of sepa-
rate skirts that have appeared In the
last fortnight many of them SO at
tractive as partly 10 console the de,
votces of the one-piece designs. Of
course, IncN n3Nt NOheS- lHdb Was
foreordalned some months ago as
compromise. OF these the panel girdle
is an offshoot. and equally Of course,
they have considerable fullness at the
bottom.
Noticeable among other designs seen
this week was skirt Of brown linen
cut III five cores. each OF which at
knee depth was turned back, and "A
section of knife-pIaited winc-coored
linen inserted This made each of the
breaths end in box plait and a see
fion of the knife plating of equal
width with the dividing line at the
center. In brownish-blue crash the
front of the bodice was cut in one with
the princess panel, and, just below the
bust. was notched in a deep point,
which reached TO the lower edge of the
girdle On the skirt the panel just
above the knees was carried up to the
belt line in a deep. sharp point, .vir-
tually forming the back of the skirt.
With this there was guimpe that was
crossed with narrow soutache. form
ing diamond shapes. AT the sides there
was some fuIluess tucked into d Cir
die of folded silk The sleeves were
smooth fitting, but not quite so snug
Mt the top as in some familiar models,
aud they were of the allover hraiding,
crossed with a band Of the plain linen,
embroidered.
Another gown had waist fashioned
OF all.over braiding and cress stitch
in combination with little round yoke
Of plain white linen like the skirt, The
skirt was plain except for panel IN
the back, which was cut in extension
Of the shaped girdle Machine stitching
and self f-covercd buttons finished both
panel and girdle:
Mauve is one of the favorite colors