davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1909-07-11
Summer Sewing for First Use on the Long Autumn Da7

house service figured silk or plain
cashmere could also be used. with the
hat and feather boa or ribbon or lace
neck ruffie the gown will adapt itself
admirably to dressy street use
The costume as illustrated is made Of
shot blue silk with a banding of plain
blue and narrow soutache braid. and it
closes at the left front giving the long
slender lines now SO necessary for cor
rect style. The chemisette is Of lace
touched with embroidery in the dress
color. though 1t is quite possible to have
this detail in a net. lace or silk in the
gown tint. for one-color effects are stll
thought very beautiful.
For the medium size there will be re-
quired twelve yards of matertal. twenty
seven inches wide, f1ve-eighths OF yard
Of all-over lace and one and one-half
yards of plain silk for the banding. The
soutache may be put on IN straight
row Ii the method shown in the model
is thought too tedious.
Figure B shows a charming dress for
girl in her late teens or early twenties as
it combines certain womanly grace with
its youthfuneSs. For distinctly autumn
use. a pale brown directoire cloth would
be rich and useful In this design. though
any softly falling twilled wool would be
as pretty and certainly less expensive.
The model with its nine-gored skirt and
simple over-blouse Is exceedingly smart.
in fact for both practical and dressy
frocks. and since the bodice is low cut
and sleeveless, it takes less than the
usual quantity OF stuff.
For the over-blouse alone two and i've
eighths yards OF material in twenty four
inch width are needed. The skirt re-
quires seven yards more. a table band
ing two inches wide for the blouse, and
small buttons and silk loops for both
pieces.
Figure c displays q get-up OF unusual
dash for the school girl from fourteen up.
Made in q plain wool texture, 1t would
be a most useful class dress to wear over
stout linen or lawn shirt waists; while
again a smart weave and color would,
with the addition of finer guinpe bod
ice, create something good enough for
any use.
AS illustrated. pretty girlish frock and
neat and useful coat are made OF deep
rose-colored shantung. with a piping OF
black satin forming the narrow gown
trimming and collar and cuffs Of the coat
Blue or brown serge or checked Scotch
wool are good wearing materials for
school service and the model would lose
none of its dash IL made up entirely with
Evening star., 1909-07-11

raj color. as young heads which have
been all but white have been known to
resume the colorings of youth, under
proper conditions. with time.
But if the grayness Is gradual ana
continues, il points to A likelihood that
the nervous system is seriously de-
ranged. and in that event there Is MOTH
ing TO do but carefully to build 1t up
If not primarily to improve ones
health, then to arrest the spread OF the
gray hairs,
In case of nervous arrangement, nux
vomica and phosphorus. combined with
iron and arsenic, are generally needed.
and these should be made into the form
of a good tonic But let me earnestly
caution my readers to take no medicine
whatsoever without consulting a phy-
sician. for while admirable tools When
handled properly, even fairly simple
drugs may prove dangerous when given
10 the wrong persons. II ones condl-
tion does not indicate the need OF arse
mic it may do great injury. On the
other hand, it splendidly restores any
one whose system really requires IT,
Again. cod liver oil may be needed by
many persons who find themselves turn
ing gray at an early age; there are PMS
made of phosphorus and quinine which
are almost universally valuable, ana IL
Is impossible to lay too much stress on
the need of good food. plenty of rest.
and regular and quiet sleep. Ten hours
Evening star., 1909-07-11
PROPER ETIQUETTE FOR THE WEEK ENDS.

moment and fill her part, whether at
bridge, tennis. charades, music or dane
ing, in a lively and agreeable manner.
The girl who wishes to 'come again" will
make her attentions impartial and show
consideration to the older guests.
One of the prettiest girls Of the season
found herself the next year not included
among the guests at a popular house. and
was greatly surprised. She never knew
why. but. as her hostess explained to
others, she could be depended on for
nothing except to take one young man or
another off into corner. the most Sc
cluded place on the piazza or In the
grounds for tete-a-tete.
This custom, which many young girls
indulge in, is called by the pertinent name
of "twosing." There are houses devoted
to 'twosing": but when such houses be-
come known mothers decline the invita-
avoid "twosng." except under special cir
cumstances. IL you wish to be a desired
visitor.
Now. in the best managed houses there
may be domestic contretemps and cata-
clysms, For these always accept any
explanation your hostess offers without
question. Nothing is more embarrassing
for hostess than to be pushed to the
wall when she has made statement
why this thing has failed. or that thing
has not come off. Speaking af desirab BILE
guest. a hostess said: Even If my ex-
cuses were pretty thin she always acted
as IL it were the most likely thing in the
world, and my slightest tarradiddles were
accepted without comment. / have had
other guests who always made 1t plain
that they had their own opinion
Having spent the required time and
made ones self as agreeable as possible
there remains the art Of taking leave.
In the first place. there is the question
of the servants and their tips. There are
hostesses who make 1t plain that their
servants are not to be tipped But these
are as rare as snow in May. 1t is not
necessary to remember any except those
servants with whom one comes in con-
tact. Most people have d rule which they
always follow. For example, they give to
the chambermaid and the waitress the
same sum, 81, or so cents, as they choose.
Others send the same sum to the cook.
If one drives or motors, the chauffeur and
the coachman are apt to expect some
recognition. Everything, however, de-
pends on the style in which the household
is organized. and one must use ones own
discretion
But let no one be tyrannized by the
situation, and remember that many ser
wants are more satisfied with pleasant
words and an agreeable manner accom-
panying small tips than with larger and
more perfunctory gifts accompanying
scant manners. If extraordinary demands
are made on the servants they should be
remembered accordingly, of course
When the time of leaving comes around,
Evening star., 1909-07-11

IN the last few weeks thirty eight
letters have reached me regarding
this serious subject of premature
u ly gray hair. and naturally the
writer's have been much alarmed
at this tendency shown by their
browning glory
One girl wrote: II am only twenty
five and nobody in my family before me
ever showed a tendency TO prematurely
gray hair" Another, even younger.
told of a long attack of fever which
left her "as gray as grandmother;
and more than a round dozen letters
declared that they did not see why a
woman should turn white even in the
early thirties" All besought remedies.
dves. explanations-escape from pre-
mature grayness.
There are a number of reasons for
this early grayness. 1t may mean an
Inherited tendency. ii may come from
serious disorder of the nervous sys-
tenn. or It may be the result only of
Temporary shock or sapping illness.
In the last case. ii is quite possible
for the hair of a young person to re-
turn. with restored health. 10 its natu-
Evening star., 1909-07-11

have everything in readiness. so that
even the most perfunctory cant you stay
longer" of your hostess-and there are
such old-fashioned hostesses-will not
permit you to make any change either in
her plans or yours. When home, do not
fail to write what is known as your
'bread and butter letter. recalling the
plea sure of your visit and thanking her
for it.
Now. to say few general words about
your wardrobe.
Take enough clothes, but not too many.
1t Is foolish to be always changing ones
clothes. Freshness is the note of the
morning-freshness in cotton or linen.
If sports are in order, come to breakfast
ready for the game. No change Is re-
guired for luncheon unless 1t is made
formal by invited guests.
In the afternoon, If there is motoring
or driving, which includes visits by the
way, wear a suitable visiting gown. For
dinner formality is required. and, If pos
sible. take two dinner gowns. with their
accompaniments. Have your clothes in
perfect order. Nothing is so boring as
guests who must always have something
done to their costumes before they can
be put on.
In your private room be considerafe.
For example. don't lie down on the lace
spread or sit on the edge of the bed and
crease The covering. Be careful about
laying down q match until it is fully out.
lest 1t burn the bureau or table cover.
Do you think these are idle admonitions?
They are not. Country houses have been
closed to attractive guests for just such
trivial reasons.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
Evening star., 1909-07-11

moorinE from a home Of peaceful love
to the treacherous sea. Of stormy NE
Yon can tell her what friendships TO
avoid. You know the indolents man. the
busy man about trifies. the patiful butter
ion. who live off the earnings of their
fathers until they can find girl who is
fool enough to marry them, who would
then live off her father; you know the
men who drink. who are goddess and pro-
fame, whose touch is pollution and whose
embrace is social and moral death.
Can you be a good brother and allow
her to accept the attentions OF such
young men? She cannot know the char
acter. the habits. the evil qualities of
young men as you can and 1t Is your part
as a brother to stand between the COM
panionship of such young men and your
pure. gentle sister.
Sound the voice of warning. utter your
protest, the protest of loyal brother.
Be sure you are right in your opposition
to your sisters friends-let her feel that
Evening star., 1909-07-11

the fransltlon Is Te1llS tullluidtiNSr q
little touch here and there during sea-
son showing the way the wind is blow
ing and deciding the makers at last as to
whether or not the new idea. in its en-
tiretv, should live
A number of the directoire and prin-
cess gowns now seen offer with modiflca-
tions or additions very pleasing sugges-
tions for autumn service. Day by day.
too, materials are growing cheaper, so
that women wno have plenty of time
may, with taste and patience. turn out
something which will seem of an ele-
eance far superior 10 anything that hur-
red work and a new seasons tremulous
indecision could accomplish.
In fact. those who leisurely turn their
..ttention to autumn sewing now will
end many things in their favor-cheap-
ness of materials offered for actual au-
turnn wear is one of them, as the first
OF a seasons stock always tries to win
the buyer by low prices. and in the very
middle OF the season stuffs for another
will appear. Such materials as are efer-
naIly fashionable for fall service-plain
cloth. serge flannel and quietly colored
silks and veilings-always precede at
this time the more startling novelties,
and in short lengths may often be picked
up for a song.
This weeks models have all been
.hosen with an eye TO first autumn wear
and the idle hours that every home
sewer finds upon her hands at this
period And as nothing is of extreme
style the various things may be accepted
wise choices for future wear. This is
a good point to remember with all sew
ing for a period to come-the sensible
models. effects midway in the scale OF
Evening star., 1909-07-11

cases will cause 1t to wither as drought
tho summer flowers.
Make confidante OF your sister and let
her look to you for counsel and protec-
ton rather than to any other man. save
her father. Be proud to have your sister
look up into your eyes with implicit con-
fdence.
Let It not be said of your family that
it's members are obliged to seek their
friendships outside. and your sister accept
the shelter a brother should give his
sister. after her father is no longer here
to give It.
Until g. husband stands by the side of
your sister. next to her father. you, her
brother, should be the nearest in all this
world.
Be your sisters guardian, make your
self wall about her to shield her from
every evil influence. You know more
about. young men than she does. Just un-
Evening star., 1909-07-11

RIO one expecting to spend the sum-
III mer in a bungalow. camp or farm
d house without modern conveniences
should be without a fireless stove.
This is not necessarily for cooking. but
for the morning bath. Take wooden
box two feet high and four feet long,
and have 1t fitted with hinged cover. Fill
the box with excelsior. or sawdust. and
make in this two holes so as to snugly
hold two tin pals. Cover the contents
and line the holes with flannel. In the
evening boil the water and I'LL the pals
at that temperature and put them in
the fireless stove and cover. The next
morning the water will be so hot that 1t
must be tempered with cold water and
will furnish two baths.
The ffreless stove, If necessary. can be
used for cooking. For example, If the
family desire to all go off for the day
picnicking or on an excursion. an Irish
stew, to take familiar illustration, can
been superseded by various shades of
gray that range from a really dark hue
to a blue tint. just off white.
All of the new outing hats. as well
as the finer straws. show decided roll
at the brin.
The scarf which matches the gown Is
becoming one of the familiar features
for the light wrap.
Foulard facing for the smart revers
sounds q new note In tailoring and dress
combinations
Linen and pique outing hats. trimmed
with a severe band of patent leather, are
in great favor.
In millinery there Is a very decided
taste for the combination of black and
dark. .purplish blue.
This season sees more white gowns Of
the lingerie description than has been the
case for some years
Smart hats continue to be huge in size.
but they have Improved In line with the
advance OF summer.
Next to the popular amethyst colorings,
the favorite of Paris just now is a faded
light green.
White wash braid with a dash of color
is an exceedingly pretty trimming for
young girls wash dress.
In only a few of the linens. porgee or
gingham dresses Is there any yoke at the
Evening star., 1909-07-11

by little tendernesses and hold It by
troubling yourself to keep It. Family
friendship requires equal care and cul-
ture.
How careful you are In your treatment
Of other women and how assidiously you
cultivate those qualities of mind and
heart which they admire. and how You
watch for opportunities to show them
favors. anticipating their pleasure. but
you cannot expect to keep the treasure
Of affection within the home circle in any
other way. You know that to gain a
woman's heart you must give what you
expect to receive. Thus you win the love
IF outside friends-human nature Is the
same In the family circle.
II you have more friendships outside
your home 1t Is because you have SHOWN
Yourself more friendly to outsiders Fam
ily love is not bit stronger than love
outside. indifference and coldness in both
Evening star., 1909-07-11

yards OF material % inches wide. The
dress calls for sia yards in the same
width. AZ yards ~ inches wide. or 8
yards % inches wide
Figure ID is another overdress adapted
TO school girls in their teens and espe-
cially to classroom use. A thin checked
or plaid wool. with a narrow silk bias
outlining the scallops as pictured. would
create one pretty effect in this model, the
silk bias always in plain color. OF course
Blue serge. trimmed with black. would
be even more useful and becoming 10 rhe
majority OF wearers. and with this the
tan ponges shirt waist of summer could
be worn to decided advantage.
The quantity of material required for
the average sixteen-year size is 6ss yards.
"a or q inches wide. The model may
also be used for girls as young as twelve
and for ages older than sixteen.
Evening star., 1909-07-11

shutting himself up in the most cruel
way.
To what woman If not his sister ought
every young man be a most true and
loyal knight, ready to defend her from
danger and shield her from insult? Your
sister should be the first to whom You owe
honor.
If there is not a true friendship and
holy fellowship between you and your
sister, you are not only neglect1ng a
solmen duty, but missing a great posi-
BILE happiness.
Has it ever occurred to you. brother.
that you have an important part in the
home making? It sounds like a very COM
monplace remark that you and your sister
should live in an intimate relationship
as friends-but it is true, alas, too true,
how shall / say it sorrowfully enough.
that brothers and sisters seek their
friends outside-that warm sympathy and
confidential companionship are seldom the
relationship between brothers and SIS
terS.
You win somebody's sisters friendship
Evening star., 1909-07-11
The Brothers Part in Home Makng-By Dr. Madison Peters

she can trust your judgment, that you
are fair. and that she may look up into
your face with pride and lean her whole
self upon your arms with implicit con
fidence.
Every young man should take counsel
of his sister concerning other young la
dies with whom he would form close
friendship. Washington Irving wrote:
s.Often have / lamented. that Providence
denied me the companionshp OF sisters.
Often have I thought that had I been
thus favored should have been better
man."
You will be better man in every way
IL you allow yourself to be influenced by
your sisters counsel Any time Of the
year 1t Is a good thing to turn over a
new leaf-turn one newsstand together
brothers and sisters and from now on be
to each other the loyalest OF friends.
Evening star., 1909-07-11
SeasonabIe Recipes.
Green Tomato Soy.

Take one peck of green tomatoes and
add a pint of salt. after the tomatoes
{. have been sliced thin. Let them stand
tventy-four hours. when drain and put
them in a preserving kettle with one
dozen onions sliced thin. .one ounce of
black pepper, one ounce of allspice. a
quarter OF a pound of yellow mustard.
mixed and half pound of whole mus
tard seed Then cover with good cider
vinegar and boil until II is thick as
Jam, stirring frequently to prevent burn
Ing.
To Pickle Cucumbers in Slices.
grown, slice them as for the table and
lay them in a colander sprinkled thickly
with salt Slice among them four small
onions. and let them drain over night. In
the morning put them in a pan and mix
with them thoroughly half a cup OF whole
black pepper and one cup of mustard
seed, when put them in a stone jar COW
cred with vinegar. Cover the jar tightly
and keep them in cool place.
Baltimore Cherry Pudding.
Stew some sour cherries until about
half cooked. when stir into them CHINA
mon. brown sugar and a little brandy.
Add a small quantity of grated bread
crumbs. Put in a buttered dish some
slices OF toast. well buttered and sprin-
kled With sugar in alternate layers with
the fruit. Bake according TO your judg-
ment
okra Soup.
Take shin of beef or three pounds OF
the neck. Slice half peck of okras very
thin and put in gallon of water with
the beef Let il boil steadily. but not too
hard. for six or seven hours. Take
quart of lima beans and boil separately
Just in time TO cook add to the soup =
half peck OF tomatoes. three onions corn
from six ears and carrot IL you like
Then add the beans. and before serving
the soup add a piece OF butter and a
tablespoonful OF brown sugar. spoon
s,,i of nafsaID Is an Improvement
Evening star., 1909-07-11

be brought TO a. boil on the stove. and
then put in the hreless stove. In the
evening the stew will be found as well
cooked as If it had been simmering on
the back Of the range. as a stew should
be cooked. all day.
An impromptu safe may be made for
vegetables by taking wire netting and
building an inclosure according to the
needs of the family. II there is a cellar,
there it should be placed, and made large
enough to be entered by. Wire door
The shelves, as many as need be, run
around the side and also are made OF the
wire netting Here can be placed not
only the vegeta bles, but the jellies and
preserves. the canned goods and even the
garden tools. for the door should have a
spring lock and secure the contents not
only from the rats, but from thieves, and,
possibly, from the children.
Indeed, there is nothing more useful in
fmpromptu summer dwellings than plenty
of wire netting. SO many are the uses
gilded. makes fine transoms. as well as
back this season. the material itself com
Ing to the edge OF the collar and being
finished with narrow rever effect In silk
or embroidery.
Foulards are made in such attractive
designs this season that they can be used
effectively in detached pieces.
Black crinoline hats serve for some of
the smart tailored models. trimmed with
white rajah or crepe de chine.
Wells are left floating instead of being
tied under the chin and around the neck,
as they were last year.
Morning robes and tea gowns are ap-
pearing without sleeves. except as they
are made of contrasting material.
Some of the new straws very cleverly
reproduce the old blues of the quaint
treasures of our grandmothers days.
Girdles will emphasize many gowns.
The under-arm seams are high and give
smartness to the close-fitting sleeve.
The long coat without revers. without
sleeves and with pear-shaped armholes
has become quite a feature OF the sea
son.
Satin charmeuse remains the favorite
fabric for ball and dinner gowns, and, in
fact for evening gowns of all descrip-
tions.
Lingerie hats made OF lace are here as
usual, but more liked are the ones of fine
chip or straw, with crowns or brim made
Evening star., 1909-07-11
FASHIONS AND FADS.
Net is still used for smart waists.

Net is still used for smart waists.
Foulards have como to their own again.
There are nultitudes OF all-black hats.
Summer shoes have very elaborate fox
ings.
yiolets trim many of the new purple
hats.
Mushroom shapes prevail in seashore
hats.
The sleeveless coat is much in the
public eye.
New hat shapes are all turned up at
the side.
Hosiery novelties include stockings Of
shaded silk.
Tunic effects seem to have come to
abide for awhile.
is roll at the side
Short sleeves are said to be coming
in again over In Paris.
overshirts of soft material are modish
and are here to stay.
Flowered muslin sunbonnets have some
favor for summer wear.
Silk bathing suits are In startling col
ors and combinations.
valenciennes lace, real and imitation. Is
in demand once more.
Cluny lace Is as great a favorite as
1t was a season or two ago.
The over-skirt effect is seen moro and
more as the summer advances.
Harrnonies in black and white bid fair
to enjoy a considerable vogue.
The amethyst tones, from deep to light,
are in the height OF fashion.
The much-ribbed parasoi. called the
Japanese" is very prominent this sea
son.
Folds and fchus over the shoulders
are quite feature Of the summer even
ing gowns.
Short skirts are the rule. forf all ex-
cepting house. reception and evening
In adopting the sleeveless coat Il should
be remembered that extreme styles are
taboo. IL
The tan and champagne tints that have
been popular for the last two years in
mems summer shirtings have this year
Evening star., 1909-07-11

more have anything to do with a woman
and further resolved that. his boy should
never look uponthe face. of a woman until
he became a. man.
Retiring to a. castle hidden away in the
Businesses of the mountains, he remained
secluded until his son was twenty
years old. when he took the shy and
Evening star., 1909-07-11

y italian nobleman
made an unfortu-
nate marriage in
early life. with a
beautiful. but wick
ed woman. His
cruel fate broke
his h e a r t and
blighted his life.
This domestic sor-
row so embittered
him That he declar-
ed he would never
Evening star., 1909-07-11


handsome young man to a great banquet
at which many beautiful women were
present.
Who are these creatures?" asked the
fascinated boy.
MY SON. replied the father. they are
devils. black-eyed devils. l have had
experience with one of them and they
are dangerous. If you want to be happy
keep away from them forever
When all was over the father asked the
son: what have you seen on your first
entrance into the world that Of all things
you would rather have?" The son prompt
ly answered.: Father. would rather have
one of those black-eyed devils than all
things else in the world combined
No man can divorce himself from wom-
ankind without pinching. dwarfing and