Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-09-19

NEW YORK, September ls.-The
 Frectoire has by no means been ex'
 ,,pstcd as a source of latter day
 ,odts, but along with it stand the
 sriods of Louis XVI, Louis XIV, Henry
 Iy and Henry II, and corresponding
 srods of English history and fashion;
 md the designers of fashion go to all
 Aese periods impartially in search of
 aspiration. For evening gowns and
 5rsc froeks of the picturesque order,
 he Empire and Directoire lines have
 ,een so successful and popular that
 omcn are unwilling to abandon them,
 and though the short-waisted froek has
 ,most disappeared in other spheres of
 hsbion, has even given place, in some l,Erte, to an extreme elongation, ae-
 nal or suggested of the waist line,
 hort waisted evening gowns will un- I55ubtedly appear among the winter rening toilettes and, when truly sue ,sssful will look modish because of heir value, just as the full skirt and lbug pointed waist of the Louis XVI
 obe de style are modish when success fully developed and eleverly worn.
 The early fall models as advanced in 1 Paris have been very attractive, re- psating much seen in the late summer ailored costumes, but appearing novel because of the new fall materials and nlorings. Skirts are short for trotting wear, the Parisians having gone over o this Americanism and now wearing ,heir trotteurs considerably shorter than the American woman likes hers. Goring or plating gives little more width to the skirt bottom than last season s modish walking skirt boasted, but the silhouette is unchanged, for bere is the same smoOthness over the hips, and the plaits or rippling fumess falls straight anl limp.
 skirt kilted or box-plaited all around, the plaits beginning either at he waist band or at the bottom of a smoothly fitted hip yoke, is seen in some of the severely tailored models, but the smartest and prettiest walking skirts have original arrangements of piaits and plain panels, and the va rety shown in such designs is amaz- ng On the whole the tailored skirt, bng and short, this season is more graceful than it has been in many day, avoiding the extremes of other seasons and retaining the merits. The smoothly fitted hip is conducive to an appearance of slenderness and the slight fitness toward the bottom makes graceful movement possible without in 'roducing any bouffancy or marring the straight slim lines.
 Circular tunie effects, the tunie very clinging and reaching almost to the bottom of the underskirt, but cut up at the sides or buttoning across on the sides are numerous, and with the princesse trotteur made with coat en ,uite there is often the turned up wash srwoman effect on the bottom of the straight princesse overdress, while be- low a side or box-plaiting appears.
 Costume coats, whether for wear with DFincesse froeks or with blouse and skirt, are in most cases very long, some reaching almost to the bottom of the skirt in redingote fashion, while Oth- CTS end half way between knees and skirt hem. For the woman 10 whom such coats are not becoming or whose taste they fail to please there are many attractive models of shorter lengths, some of them having the endorsement of some great Parisian makers.
 Unquestionably a coat of moderate length does go better with a short skirt than one of the very long models, but of course that makes no difference 10 the crowd, if fashion has decreed long coats. The woman with force of character, however, will consider her own figure in determining the length of her coat
 Perfectly plain tailored coats with mannish revers cut a triile low, straight dngle breasted fronts and mannish pockets are made in varying lengths and conform to the passion for straight narrow hip lines, as do all of the modish coats, though some are slightly more fitted at sides and back than oth CTS. On a majority of the new coats tbe revers are still lower, often cross, ing and fastening at the waistline or below.
 As a charming adjunct to the long jacket for day wear, nothing is more