The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1909-12-13

matter Of material and sim
plicity. Rich fabrics on most
simple lines are Insisted upon
by the builders Of authoritative mourn
ing garments.
Cheap black is always a poor invest
ment, for the poor dyes do not keep
their color and soon become dingy and
shabby, whereas a fine black fabric. rich
| I'm color and texture. may often be used
and reused to good advantage.
BrOadcloth. serge. and nuns yelling
are all correct mourning materials. and
for house f'ocks there are dun silks.
crepe de chine. chiffons. and the ser.
viceable mohair for neat little around
the-house dresses for morning and az
ternoon wear.
Bands of Silk
Used for Trimmings.
Folds and stitched bands OF silk and
plaitings OF dull silk ribbon may be used
for trimming II one prefers not to wear
crepe The latter ma erial, of course, Is
always expensive. bue IL adds a charac-
ter OF clearance and distinction to the
mourning costume which may not be
gainsaid, no matter what ones personal
prejudice against the somber trimming
may be Crepe is so distinguished that
It IS worn now not only with widows'
mourning. but also with mourning
for mother, daughter, or sister;
| though in all except widows mourning
crepe is supposed to be discarded after
the first SIX months.
Crepe comes now IN a supple, new
texture which Is especially easy to
manipulate and a silk mourning blouse
seen the other day in an authoritative
mourning shop on Fifth avenue. showed
a pleating OF this nevs crepe all the way
down the front. crisp little bow Of the
crepe being set just beneath the chin
Net Blouses
Have Folds OF Crepe.
Filet net blOuses also have folds OF
this crepe set on in lengthwise rows. a
little yoke Of black net or chiffon being
set into the square opening at the neck
Another smart mourning blouse was OF
black 1let heavily covered with a SOU
tache pattern, yoke and sleeves being
Of crepe.
The widow wears her mourning IN
iightened for two years. After the first
six months, however. the ven may be
thrown back from the face. The widows
veil is now draped over a much larger
tOGue-or bOnnet-than used to be the
case. and very young widows sometimes
wear the ven draped over quite good
sized hat; this hat being severely plain.
with TO trimming whatever-not even
bows or rosettes Of the crepe.
Veil Worn
About the Hat.
For a mother, daughter, son or sis
ter the vel is worn around the hat,
falling we'll below the chin, and is
usually Of Brussels net or mesh, with
crepe bands or ribbons stitched ia rows
at the edge. For the first deep mourn
ing veil worn in this fashion crepe Is
sometimes used; or a fine grenadine.
which, while not as sitting as crepe,
offers the same protection to the face.
These more important dress details are
settled by conventionallty-an ones
dressmaker usually knows what il cor
rect and in good taste II IS In the
minor details of mourning that many
women trip ur-in the little things that
make such a deal Of difference in abso-
Lutte correctness and in good STYLE also.
For instance, the black bordered hand /
kerchief is no longer carried by we'll
dressed women, who consider the wide
black border ostentatiOUs and vulgar.
The correct mourning handkerchief is
pure WIllIe llltu OF the uleSL grade mat
one can afford, and ultra-smart mourn
ing handkerchiefs have extravagantly
deep hems-scarcely more than a four
inch square Of plain linen being left IN
the center Of the handkerchief. Three
tiny initials, plainly designed, may be
embroidered in black in one corner.
Jewelry Cast
Aside During Mourning.
Jewelry, Of course. must be laid aside
when mourning Is donned. The only
gold jewelry permissible is the plain
sold wedding band
4 handsome gold watch cannot always
be discarded for one OF black enamel or
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