New-York tribune., 1909-01-24


The first straw hats have mace their appearance
In black and in dark coors. In shapes they follow
the lines CT the inverted dish. the bowl and the
mob crown. all Eith narrow bTlms. With snow and
frost still in the air, the sky dark and sunless,
thess hats of sprfngtime seem a little premature;
Set thky attractive. with their smart trimmings
Of shiFyed and tucked silk. wide folded ribbon
hands Ozark hued flowers and smart feathers and
wings perking at ode angles. OF fne gray Italian
straw ik big crowned hat with a narrow brinl,
Set on the back the head il frames the face like
bonnet Separating crown and brim is wide,
shirred satin band that fastens in front bunch
OF the small golden apples Of the Riviera IL was
planned for the Riviera and accompanies gown
os dark gray ssrge-ths soft sort-nade all in
one piece. while preserving distinctly the bodice
and skirt appearance. Soft gray satin, laid I'm
folds. belts it, passing through long steel buckle
in the back Similar arrangements Of folded satin,
with small steel buckles. shape cuffs to the tight
sleeves. and edge the small opening at the neck.
The tiny guinpe is Of tucked white tule, the ucks
edged with fine steel beads.
In the wardrobe is afternoon gown of
dark blue Voile Fitting closely ihe hips. the
skirt is finished with shaped volant Joined 10
the upper part in line rising toward the back.
Blue soutache braid. in inch wide design, covers
the joining The soft low corsage, tightly beited
the normal waist line with blue silk front and
hack. is covered with the brsiding. little en-
loieeement of black AMI white striped silk. but
toned with tiny black buttons. rises above this,
framing the gumpe % tucked white net The in
eHtahte cTaTat az half-fnch vide black ribbon,
tippeo with steel finishes the neck. This pretty
fnish has become classic Its chic and its be-
oomingness warrant its vogue and there Is great
variety in it's adjustment and the finish of it's
Sometimes il circles the neck tie tightly in a
prsFn little boR, and sometimes IL the
top Of tile chsker n tine back to fall low in front
tiee loosely with hanging ends knotting once at
the threat: the ends held together lower down
by 5exelled slide. Always the ends are metal
tipped weight them.
el-f-
though the fuiuess is cleverly adjusted under an
inverted peat cut out beneath The straight line
front and the sides is still carefully guarded
sad Eettiooats kept in the background, but
there is pleasing absence OF the dragging, ham
persng folds that caused women to adopt an en-
t:reiy new walk
Neck ruches OF ribbon. tulIe and fur feathers OF
snarabou, mount incredibly nigh about the ears
covering the lobes. Several Of these pretty things
ara nscessary in ones wardrobe, for the last word
is 70 have a ruche 10 match each costume. There
is curious absence OF lace OF any sort in toilets
Even the fluffy tea gown. a mass OF lace
>rlzile losing its fuf3ness is now composed
OF tulIe. ard chiffon Ribbon enters largely
into the decorative scheme of these delectable gar
rEents that every woman covets. a busy profes-
sional woman, who spends sixteen hours OF the
sventy-four in harness, declares her Idea OF
heavenly rest is 70 be able lounge one whole
day in a beautiful tea gown Perfectly fascinst-
fng is tea gown Of narrow pink and blue pompa-
eos- ribbon. alternating with strips embroidered
tztists. 10 the knees. meeting there a founce OF
wider ribbon is sleeveless. and opens widely in
frcnt over a petteoat OF the embroidered null.
which. also shapes long sleeves.
Equally charming is one OF soft white nnousseiine
&c sole in several wide tucks on skirt body and
sieeves- Over all is q straight stole-like
funic Of white silk. embroidered on all the edges
with attle gold braid Yellow silk fringe weights
the hem. ard il is held loosely to tie figure by
vide sash Of pale green satin. tied high in the
back.
Il is the season of bargains. The wise woman,
she does most OF her shopping at this season is
besioered at the low price of pretty bits of rib
bon elk eulhroideries and psssementeries; ali as
good ard beautiful those that will take their
places on the counters in another two weeks
How easy Il is 10 achieve a handsome evening
seiiet, or visiting one, with some discretion and
. little money.
short lengths OF the bead embroidered t,lIes so
expersivs when they first appeared six months
$50. car be turned into adorable tunics nj home
thst In the hands OF couturiere would add MANY
figures 10 the cost OF gown
Among the new materials Is the practical and
chic tussor. The variety called Bengal tussor is
fke rnest widely known. 1t shows equally well IN
Tsszzeafs coats gowns. OF Bengal tussor in a
charming, yeliovisk brown shade, is a new coat
had Skirt costume, made with box pleat
O. the middle Of the front breadth; the skirt is