The morning Astorian. [volume] (Astoria, Oregon) 1899-1930, 1909-03-28
EAlS AND Fashions

disagree VI many NupolNah' h"tNe
and features and the large mass OF
women who initiate, but do not or
Iigina,e fashions, Is anxiously awaiting
developments, Judging from the
models which have arrived here from
Paris the fashions for the coming
Spring and Summer, although still
showing nireetoire influence, will
represent a greatly modified and far
more practical form OF that style
The plain skirt many fashion eS-
perts think, has come to stay at least
until thinner fabrics prove impraeti'
cable for such development and the
| four gored one Is the newes, type
This means that the cores will be
wider at the top, giving less flare at
the bottom than the former many
gored models. Skirts will still be
elingiug, but not quite SO much as
they used to during the winter'
They 1T over the hips as smoothly
as ever aud show very little trimming
The inevitable fold Is absent from the
bottom OF the skirt, bu, a palmer,
possibly more severe effect Is seen
in its place. For instance, the CORES
At about founce depth arc so cut that
Hast extends some inches over the
widths next 10 il and these widths
overlap the next ones and so on, The
seams arc sometimes sewed outside
that Is. the edges turned under lap
| fashion, and again, they overlay with
narrow strapping, II may be stat.
ed that much Of the narrow strapping
or short tab straps are In evidence on
| a number Of the new models
| The new coats are from "a 70 70
Inches long. are semi.G,ting aud fin
ished with long sleeves, The very
latest comers are eollarless, even in
severely tailored styles, and the necks
are trimmed with IA, pieces Of velvet
satin or silk about two inches wide.
This is either strapped in with the
goods or with braid n little less than
an inch wide and black in tone
The most noticeable thing among
the new materials for tailoring is the
invasion Of the silk and wool mixtures
and the silk which here as In other
provinces Of fashion are demanding
recognition and deserving H. Silk
and wool bengalines in one tone bay
adere stripesa silk stripe or group
OF stripes on a fine wool ground-are
shown in all the modish shades and
are particularly good in sowe OF the
gravier or beige tones and the grays.
These are often matched with plain
fine wool, thu stripe material being
used only for the coat
Satin stripped prunelles are another
and not TOO expensive silk and wool
class OF tailor fabrics and at higher
price one finds what the manuiac'
turers have called a satin serge. a
beautiful material extremely soft, yet
firm. woven like wool serge with a
fnc twill, and having satin finish,
This satin serge is an admirable ma
terial for the one-piece trock and coat
models through which the tailorrs arc
now making inroads upon the dress
makers territory, and the new silk
and wool satin cloth, a very light
weight soft fabric with high satin
lustre Of surface and wool back Is
another material much favored for
dressy costumes Of this type, though
according to old traditions, il has no,
the accepted tailor air Of the satin
serge.
Directoire cloth, slightly heavier
than satin cloth and with Iustre
less pronounced, is also popular with
the tailors and there are many corded
materials in silk and wool all grouped
under the head OF cotele and some oi
them practical for tailor costumes
while others are excessively sheer
This cord idea extends into the all.
silk fabrics too, ranging from the ali.
wool stuffs Of Bedford cord type
through the silk and wool bengalines
etc, to the all-silk bengaIines, the
| Ottomans, the failles and the coteIe
shantungs and tussors
Ottoman will be extensively used
not only for trimming of tailored
costumes, but for whole costumes az
we'll, and indications are that we shall
see very large number Of Ottoman
silk coats in combination with one.
piece frocks Of lightweight wool OF
plain silken stuff. Attractive scpa-
rate coats Of Ottoman are being made
by some Of the authoritative tailors
and while cut on the newest lines arc
as rule severely tailored in air
though they are frequently adorned
by handsome buttons and ornaments
made from the silk or Of passemen.
teric sort Braiding embellishes some