davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1909-03-13
Ceacb Children to Be Soclable
Points FOR Mothers Ubo Hre ambitious

The woman who cannot make over
her own gowns misses a lot of COM
fort
How helpless one feels as one looks
at an old fashioned waist and realizes
it is out of date and yet something
would bring it back into STYLE but
what?
Now, the woman who is used to re-
modelling her dresses knows in a min
ute what the trouble is, and she knows
how to fix a sleeve over in the short
est way and pull a skirt band up to
give an empire effect where none ex-
lists. She need never wear anything
out of date, thanks to her talent, and
when / say talent I am using the
wrong term. 1t is more of a quality.
for it can be cultivated.
Mothers, if you are wise you will
teach your daughters how to make
over their last year dresses instead of
teaching them how to embroider. 1t
will give them much more pleasure in
the end, 1 can assure you.
1 notice that the overskirt is slowly
but surely creeping in. The tall
American girl demands this style, for
she does not look at her best in the
stringy plain skirt.
A costume illustrating this new
overskirt was shown to me in a Fifth
avenue shop the other day. 1t was
made of soft cashmere, and, by the
way, cashmere is no longer old fash
toned, but quite the rage. The over
skirt ran across the front in a COM
plete bias, low on the right side and
high on the left, while it disappeared
entirely in the back beneath the
straiaht edge of the long side, giving
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1909-03-13

almost rectangular balloonlike, thick
and thin. Now she has evolved Ia
femme tube a very poetica1 term in
French, but not so pleasing in English.
The tube woman! How do you like it =?
HorribleI Still Ia femme tube is the
type modish women this spring and
summer will look upon with approval
and emulate when possible even at the
loss of three square meals a day.
feminine souls are certainly tried
by these anatomical experiments of
the dressmakers. Job was a long suf-
fering gentleman, and his Affections
were many, but with all his marvellous
patience under fire this hero must yield
the palm to the modern woman of
fashion"
There is no quarrel, though, with
the materials of the season. They are
charming. Colorings are alluring and
the weaves soft and supple Even mo-
hair, never in its unregenerate days a
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1909-03-13

BY the way. speaking Of trimming, a
great deal of dyed lace is used both
in bands and also by the yard. 1t is
quite the proper thing to have ones
guimpe dyed to match the dress. 1t
also is very smart to have a pale blue
or pink princess trimmed with strips
of lace running in straight lines from
the edge of the short waist to the
bottom of the skirt, these lace strips
having first been dyed to match. Gen
orally the silk slip worn under such a
lingerie creation is of lighter tone,
which gives a lacy, transparent effect
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1909-03-13

frock? First cut
your linen and
make it up into
a plain short
waist with long
sleeves and join
this to a narrow
& ore d kir t
stitched in pan
els. In each of
these panels and
on the front and
back pieces of
the waist have
an eyelet pattern
stamp ed and
work it in heavy
cotton, either
white or black.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1909-03-13

ARTS. Feb. 27.-An amusing
sight to be observed in GER
tain parts of Paris are the
bargain sales held outside
some of the big department stores.
Here at the gay capital merchants do
not advertise their special sales in the
newspapers, but attract customers by
heaping long stalls with wearing ap-
parel. Great placards announce the
wonderful reductions in hats, gowns
and all kinds of dress accessories. 1t
is quite a usual thing at these sales for
a woman to drop her outer skirt and
try on one of the marked down jupes.
To guard her from the too curious eyes
of the crowd the women about her
form hollow square in military fash
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1909-03-13

ner-that is to say, after the frock is
made up.
The other day 1 attended a suffrage
meeting, and I must say it speaks
well for the movement that the be-
levers in womens rights are nova
days as well dressed as those who be-
lieve exclusively in mems rights.
Time was, as we well know, when
short hair and shorter skirts were the
rule. but nowadays you see a daintily
marceIled and beautifully gowned wo-
man arise with true feminine grace
fulness and PROFOUND views that make
the men sit up and take notice, they
are so full of logic and common sense.
Good work!
Less "'mannishness" and more sound
reasoning is what women need when
they go into politics.
Pointer For Mothers.
Before close I want to say a word
on an entirely different subject.
1t is a mothers duty to give her
children a fair start socially.
Many a woman's life has been ruin
ed because her mother did not teach
her as a child to get on with people.
When a child is small she should be
encouraged to bring home her little
school friends, as many as possible.
She should have little parties for
them, and this will teach her at an
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1909-03-13

flaps of the pongee under big buttons.
embroidery. The hat is a Lecroix
model, the huge crown coming almost
to the edge of the brim. The trimming
consists of strings of jet beads and a
cluster of rich black plumes at one
side. The waist line on most of the
dressy suits is still high, and with so
many of the coats cutting away in
front the effect is very smart. AS far
as skirts go, no great novelty is in
troduced this season. The cut and
draping absorb all the ingenuity of
the modiste. The novelties are to be
found in the bodices. Nearly all of
the new spring frocks are in one piece.
Dressmakers and designers have
agreed that this charming style shall
remain through the summer at least.
The leading new colors are bishop
violet. malachite green, old gold, Chi
nese blue and peculiar shade of pea
cock. All these nuances come in soft
than ever. if that is possible, but of
firner texture than the winter stuffs
displayed.
The Vogue of Linen.
There is to be another linen summer
this material that one is tempted to
sQuander a large slice of their sub
stance in gowns of this description.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1909-03-13

and sleeves with
out any fullness
w whatever. The
Softening touches
are given by the
neck ruche, the
sash belt with it's
long fringed ends
and occasionally
a little jabot of
Irish lace.
Most prin c e S s
gowns are really
m ade in two
pieces, but join
ed together I'M
der a soft folded
belt or a band of
trimming.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1909-03-13

early age her responsibilities as a
hostess.
The child who is shy should be
thrown in with other children as much
as possible. If it becomes necessary
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1909-03-13

RINCESS gowns still continue
to be the proper thing, and
every spring and summer
u dress will be made in one
piece this year
A great many gowns of foulard and
wolfe are made very simply, with
straight cores instead of circular skirts
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1909-03-13

! A much more effective embroidery
trimming may be traced in this man
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
RAID ON THE
TREASURY
FUND
City Salaries Raised in
Many Ways and
Amounts.

The supervisors, headed by Aylett,
made raid upon the City and County
Treasury last night by boosting the
salaries of nearly everybody employed
in the county. Aylett plunged into the
session with bunch of resolutions, to
specify individual salaries instead of
passing the lump appropriation resolu-
ton, presented by Logan, covering over
100000. Aylett sprung trick upon
his fellow-superviso and at first they
were inclined to vote him down, but
ne was supported by Kane and AHA,
with Logan, Quinn and Mcclellan op-
posed, giving tie votes, as Cox was
absent. Finally, some of the resolu-
tons were passed and then the whole
set of resolutions went through quickly,
much to Aylett s surprise.
The meeting was charged with elec.
trieity, Aylett making Fourth of July
speeches. There was petty politics
played in some of the proceedings and
the meeting had little head or tail to it
In the matter of appointments Mayor
Fern is to be congratulated for nomin
ating Halvor Myhre, as Milk Inspector
in order to prevent obstruction in one
of the most important departments Of
the city government. The Mayor hao
another appointment to make, but il
! Difference to what may have been pub
| lie interest, he nominated Mr.. Myhre
| A. X. Williams was nominated for FISH
Inspector and both appointment
| passed.
The big appropriation bill calling TO
| expenditures for salaries and material
and supplies covered $312,56S.50 ac
cording to Mr.. Logan s figures. Thi
| does not include an auto for the mayor
CONTINUED on Page Five.)
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
A BANQUET IN
HONOR OF
|j|CH|
japanese Admiral Voices
His Friendship for
Uncle Sam.

Admiral Ijichi, officers of his train
ing squadron, Captain Gleaves and off
GERS of the q. S. cruiser ST. Louis, local
Army and Navy officers and represen-
tative men of this community were en-
tertained at banquet given by the
members of the Commercial Club in the
McCandless building last evening. The
diningroom was appropriately decorat-
ed, japanese and American flags being
crossed on the walls to form the main
theme of the decorations. Speeches
from several others.
President Wakefield, who acted as
POSTMASTER, called first for toast to
William Howard Taft, President of the
United States. This was drunk stand
ing. A toast was then proposed to the
health Of His Majesty, the Emperor of
Japan. Consul General Uyeno asked
the privilege of answering this toast,
and he expressed the thanks of his ma
ticn for the friendly spirit displayed
| by the citizens of Honolulu, and espe.
| cially by the commercial organizations
| towards Japan. He then asked those
present to join him in drinking the
| haalth of Governor Walter T. Frear.
president Wakefield, in few excel
lent words, introduced Admiral Ijichi
| the guest of honor of the evening
| speaking the pleasure which the Com
| mercial Club of Honolulu had in en-
| tertaining so distinguished guest. II
| answer the Admiral said as follows:
Admiral's Speech.
cit is most agreeable task for me
to stand here in offering the heartfelt
Continued on Page Four.)
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
HIS HONOR TAKES COURSE
IN STEERING AN AUTO

who has 3 reputation for doing
things" carried out orders The Mayor
evidently had been taught the intriea-
cies of 'shoffering" an auto in the
outskirts of town, for when-h appear
ed on the business streets he sat brave
ly on the right-hand front seat and
speeded FER up.
Down King street came the Mayor in
the auto and at a rate of speed that
made even the trained chauffeur at his
side shiver and shrink back into the
darkest seclusion of his seat. There
were some murmurs of scorcher! -
but these were quickly Kissed down by
the Mayors friends. As the fine, big
car successfully negotiated the inter
section of King and Fort streets, pass
ing Ewa-wards along the former, the
Mayor was the eynosure of all eyes, as
the poet might well say. Nor to right
nor left looked he who guides munich
pal affairs, however, but drove right
| courageously onward.
/ The truth will out, and it will un-
doubleday be known today whether Oh
not the Mayor has decided to appoint
himself as City and County Chauffeur
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29

Over a hundred years ago, the IN
vading warriors of the Great Kane
hameha drove the defenders of Oahu
an the narrow valley of Nuuanu and
over the pail S brink TO their death.
Yesterday, two score of the Daughters
of Hawaii and their guests assembled
on the pali's brink and unveiled tab
let to mark the spot where final VIC
tory crowned the invaders effort. The
Conqueror and his barefooted warriors
fought from the sea to the summit
against brave enemy, fighting for
their homes; the Daughters of Hawaii
sped rapidly over the same ground in
flashing automobiles. The spearsmen
of Kamehameba fought their way from
heiau to heiau. from one series of
rocky barbados to another, through
terraced taro patches; the Daughters
of Hawaii, gathered in his honor, sped
past handsome villas, picturesque sum-
mcr homes and bungalows, over ma
cadamized highway lined with import
ed trees.
But it was the same old pail wind
that greeted them. The same blasts
that brought the sounds of battle down
the valley during that death grappie
in 1895 caught up the strains OF HAWAII
Ponoi yesterday and tossed them makal
of the reservoir; the same gale that
tossed the locks of the Lonely One, as
he leaned upon his bloodstained spear
and ordered the slaughter to be stopped,
yesterday tossed the skirts Of the
Daughters of Hawaii, twisted the peach
basket hats and tagged masculine head
gear ahead of pursuing owners. 1t was
the same old pail wind, a hundred years
older and stronger.
1t was noteworthy gathering which
crowded in the lee of the rock guard
on the turn of the pail road, including
the present Governor of Hawaii, for
mer Governor and President, descend
ant of the Hawaiian leader of the
troops who pushed back the Oahuans,
and a descendant of an Oahu chieftain
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
LAND BUREAU
To BE MOVED
Department Will Go With the
Public Works at
Capitol.

Important changes, both in regard to
personnel and methods of administra-
ton, will follow the consolidation of
the Departments of Public Works, Land
and Survey, which will go into legal
and active effect on the first day of
July. the beginning of the new biennial
period.
In conformity with the plans of Su-
perintendent of Public Works Marston
Campbell, who viii have full executive
control over the three consolidated de-
partments, the Public Lands Bureau
will be moved from its present quarters
in the Judiciary building and viii be
given space in the present quarters Of
the Department OF Public Works IN the
Capitol. Nh. Campbell believes that
this will tend toward the Capitalization
of the work and be an important fac
tor in contributing to successful admin
istration.
The Survey Department Will remain
where it is at the present time, IN the
building mainly occupied by the Board
of Health. 1t is believed that the Pub
lie Lands Department will be in full
running order in its new quarters in
the Capitol by August l, although
Superintendent Campbell is not sure
that the new vault to be placed for the
reception of the valuable land records
of the Territory viii be dry by thai
date
The quarters TO be vacated in the
Judiciary building by the Public Lands
Department viii be used as an addition
to the present cramped accommodations
Of the Tax Bureau, which has. been
forced to endure inadequate accommo
dations. electric lights being hung over
the clerks desks throughout the day
in addition to the smallness and genera
| dinginess of the office.
CONTINUED on Page Five.)
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29

VIII Mayor Joseph J. Fern be his
own chauffeur7 Or is the Mayor of
the opinion that it is better to be the
owner of a car that is outside the juris-
diction of the City Fathers? Questions
similar to the above were asked yes
terday afternoon when, seated at the
steering wheel of one of the finest tour
about automobiles in the city, Mayor
Fern was seen coming down King
street.
The Mayor was not to be found sub
sequent to his afternoon ride, and con-
sequently the burning question as to
whether the city's chief executive has
decided to be his own chauffeur, and
also that of the Board of Supervisors,
has not been settled. Jim Quinn might
have put in requisition for the job
had he known that it was to be made
one of dignity.
To be sure, the Mayor had his
teacher with him yesterday. The
teacher explained things and the Mayor
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
COMMISSIONERS
REVOKE ALL THE
SUNDAY RIGHTS
The License Board Takes Away Right of ALI
Restaurants and Hotels to Sell After
Hours and on Sundays.
The Following licenses were granted:

The Following licenses granted:
Medeiros Waialua Wholesale All
Shgmatsuku,
privileges
Dease estate time n
privileges
permission his saloon Aakea
restaurants the Honolulu
of
Sunday in any estaurant 0 hotel in the
to
public held
in for Al Thurow, proprietor
Of
hoteeepers with regards the Sunday
He
willingness This
(Continu on
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
CORoNER's VERDICT AGAINST
BROKER.

ST. MICHAELS, Md, June 28.-The
coroner's jury has returned verdict,
in the matter of the death of Miss
Edith Wodill, of Los Angeles, to the
effect that she was murdered and that
Robert Eastman, New York broker
who was chased by posse after the
crime and is supposed TO have been
shot or to have committed suicide, was
the principal in the murder or at least
an accessory to the crime.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
PITTsBURG'S BUSINESS WAS
PARALYZED.

PITTSBURG, Pa, June 28.-The
business Of this city is partially para
lyzed as result Of three thousand en-
pIoyes of the street car company 60
ing out on strike on Saturday night and
the lines being tied no. A number of
the strikers today opened fire on a
band of strikebreakers, determined that
the lines shall not be operated. Nego-
tiations to break the strike have SO
far proved fruitless.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
DAUGHTERS OF HAWAII
IJNVElL TABLET ON THE
NUUANU BATTLE SITE

X x X X x y s*9T:'. s'*s sSs "*,* x
marble tablet Battle of the Nuuanu Pail
appropriate ceremonies yesterday afternoon by Mrs
This tablet is set in niche cut
the of the Nuuanu road
The tablet of gray marble, inscribed follows:
Daughters of Hawaii 1907 to commemorate the
Battle the invading
of Kalankupe King OF Oahu
to the precpice thus establishing the
Kamehameha dynasty
az = y y y y y y y y :. ;.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29

who fell that day at the head of his
men. Side by side stood those in whose
veins flows the blood of the chiefs
among the invading army and the
chiefs of the defenders. With shem,
numbered among the sons and daugh-
ters of the soil, stood descendants of
the early missionaries, who brought the
first Gospel tidings to the land, and
others representing the new Hawaii,
the American Territory.
Mrs. B. F. Dillingham;, the president
of the Daughters of Hawaii, read an
address, which included description OF
the battle of Nuuanu. written by Mrs
CONTINUED ON Page Two.p
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
NEW YORK June 28.-The pres

NEW YORK, June 28.-The present
theory of the police in the investiga-
ton of the horrible murder of Elsie
Sigel, slum missionary, whose mutilat-
I'd remains were found in Chinatown
Joint, in trunk, is that Leong Sing,
accused Of the crime and at first
thought to have escaped in steam
shin has himself been killed by an I'M
known person and that his body was
secreted in another trunk.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29

BERLIN. June 2S.-It is officially an
nounced today that Baron Won BueloW
is to retire from the government when
the finance reform has been decided
His successor has not been selected. .
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
HEAT CONTINUES IN THE EAST

CHICAGO, June 28.-The terrific
heat in this city has caused four deaths
in the last twenty-four hours.
NEW YORK, June 28-Two deaths
from the heat have been reported to-
day.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
AFTERNOON
CABLE REPORT

ALDRIcH FOR INCOME TAX.
WASHINGTON D. c., June 3d.
Senator Aldrich has introduced an
amendment to the tariff bill providing
for a limited income tax.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
CHANGES IN PROVINCES
FOR CHINESE VICEROYS

PEKING 2ouan Fang Viceroy of the Marking prov
appointed Vceroy Chilli He has been succeeded at
Marking by Chang Jon Hun, formerly Viceroy Canton
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
CROWN PRINCE
OF JAPAN MAY
SEE EXPOSITION
Seattle Reports Say He Will Visit in August
---Chinese Official Changes-.-Pittsburg
Strike Is Settled.
ASSOCIATED Press cablegrams.)

(Assocated Cablegrams)
SEATTLE, June reported here that the Crown Prince
of Japan win visit Exposition August
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
WINDS TOO STRONG FOR AIR.FLYERS

WASHINGTON June ae-Strong winds prevented the Wright
brothers making aeropanes which scheduled
for yesterday.
Il HUNG CHANGES NEPHEW IS DEAD
CITY MEXICO June 2e-Li Ching Hsu, Chinese Charge
dAfaes at city, He nephew of Ii Hung Chang
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29
STREET CAR STRIKE IN THE
SMOKY CITY IS NOW SETTLED

PITTSBURG June 2o-The strike here in which
employees of the out and the business
of the city practically standst, has been settled
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1909-06-29

SEATTLE June ao-The Nippon Yusen Kaisha Company
Grating steamships Puget Sound and the Orient
withdrawn twoof transpacihc liners
Daily Kennebec journal. [microfilm reel] (Augusta, Me.) 1870-1975, 1909-08-07
Knives and Forks,

Even as so late Il period as the res
t"rttIon it was the custom for guests to
take their own knives and forks to a
banquet. PepyS records that he did
this when he went to the lord MAYORS
feast in the Guildhall In the previous
reign tie lord chamberlain had found
it necessary to issue regulations for the
benz fit o! officers invited to dine at the
royal table. They were required to
wear clean boots, not to be half drunk
on their arrival. not to drink more
tnan one goblet to every two dishes,
not to throw the bones under :he ia
bic nor to lick their fingers The Stu
arts undoubtedly did much to refine
English table manners. for it was one
OF the noints admired in Mary Queen
of scots that the customs she intro
duted from France made her court and
royal banouets more exquisite and gen.
tie than those of her rival Queen Eliz-
apcth.
AS forks came into use. the old time
Importance of the table napkin began
to wane. From being a necessity it
became luXury. on the fastidious Use
of which etiquette has at various times
placed strange values. Under the third
empire in France Saint Beuve brought
disgrace upon himself because at
breakfast at the Tuileries he carelessly
opened his napkin and placed it over
his two knees. To this he added the
crime of cutting mis- egg in two in the
middle. Court etiquitte prescribed that
the half-folded napkin should lie on
the left knee and the top of the egg
was to be merely broken with the
edge Of -the spoon and drained with the
tin of the spoon. For his failings in
these respects Saint Beuve's name was
struck off the imperial visiting list
London Chronicle.