New-York tribune., 1909-03-28

Paris March IS
In the ateliers OF the great designers it seems
indeed springJinne Cne forgets the cold outside
Among tail. green growing plants. great jars Of
Blooms ard flower decked rnantes tall maniklns
pose themselves. OF walk up and down. gowned in
colored silks satins. transparent voes, flower
printed. sheer moUsselines and borderei foulards
Softer than ever-if that We're posi- ihle-aTe the
stuffs o. which these new gowns are built They
are proof too. that the close clinging skirts have
been definitely abandoned. These ones are
mounted in much fulness. Tleated. or gathered TO
the edge OF q yoke. which may be Of any shape
desred-pointed the hips, round. in even line.
or slanting short from the back 10 knee length
point front The TOP OF the yoke ends often at
the normal waist line under 4 belt, dipping ever
little front, il the old, graceful lire once so
much liked. or the ycke mounts 10 the bodice
few inches. rises to the depth Of a tuntc- Then
q sash is folded cover the joining OF the skirt
and yoke. and tied into bow at one side with
short or long ends. The effect is straight curve
less. like that OF child's gown Gowns Of fouiard
six and voiles have long short skirts. pleated
from the belt all unnecessary fulness being cut
away 10 give the extremely close effect over the
hips; below the fulness spreads wide. Or these
materials shirred in close rows 10 shape yoke
On the corsage Z low-necked yoke IS shirred also;
there Is wide band OF shirring the tops Of the
sleeves and again al the wrists leaving fulness TO
fall from the elbows
Nearly all the afternoon gowns turned out by
one well known house the Place Nendome have
the neck finished with . nat turnover coilaT OF
plain white linen Of embroidery. fine lace. OF
null lightly frflled. This house shows
Marguerite gowns The double skirt is OF two
materials The upper one is lifted high at
side into a pretty fulness held by an ornament.
how or = chatelaine pocket Of embroidery. The
sleeves are extremely tight and point over the
hands The bodice is closely fitted. but with a
c,,rvelsss waist line. and is at the neck in a
small square. filed with folds Of soft white null
There are new skirts hung IN soft peats from a
deep yoke that IN the movement OF the walk allow
zlirpses OF another color, in bright contrast hid
cen inside the pleats On a short skirt hung in
fat. double box-pleats. each edge .s hen2med with
4 line of black. Wholly fascinating are new gowns
with a quaint pointed corsage. A tisht-ftted lin
ing IS covered. seamless. with cleverly handed
wrinkles The long sleeves are Of extreme tight
ness. perfectly moulding the arms
skirts Of dinner gowns, gathered 70 a round
waist line and open II front to show taeher
suggest pannier in the Wav the front hreadths are
carried hack looped over the hips. 10 disappear in
the folds al the back graceful d-aptng Is
achieved hy two lightly gathered breadths OF SOFT
material hung on each side open back and front
They are gathered together at the ends into q
loose knot ending in 2 heavy passementere ball
Goats are varied. They continue 10 be altoEether
charming preserving their long loose lines full OF
grace There short ones. too, under the olo
name @, boIero that youthful and jaunty-
Tba tailored costume for practical uses IS little
...-,s5 The short skirt, shaped on faring circu-
s.- lines O. laid in nice hatly pressed pleats from
bseco-ninzly adjusted skirt yoke, is worn with
5..-ee-ouar1er single breasted long coat with
small revers. a fat collar and moderate coat
sleeves Later this model viii be copied in tus-
sore and IN heavy linens for summer Journeys
Costs with a side closing that have lately ap-
nesred are not likely TO prove success In spite
n their novelty women OF tEsJe look them
.skznce They have clumsy appearance and
lack the length CT line generally desired OF coarse