Omaha daily bee., 1909-04-04

trate: One has only to note the care with
which the fine serges are woven and the
beautiful construction of the voiles and the
veilinEs, with their crisp and resultant quail
ties, to get a fair Idea of the spinning tri-
umphs which the Dlrectoire mode has COM
PEELED.
Serges were never as perfect in con-
struction as they are today. and this is
directly due to DIrectoire styles. The In
distinct chevron weaves. satin effects and
plain colors constitute the available con-
struction; the prominent favorite being the
plain and seif-stripe satin effects.
Fashions Influence is also seen In the
wide use of such d~iaphanous fabrics as filet
nets, Voiles and veiiings. Voiles and veil
ings have a staple place in dress fabrics
and their usefulness is largely increased in
the introduction now and again of new
constructions. Mohairs are a factor to be
considered in dress goods, but they have
adapted themselves because of their beautl-
full finish and flexibility to the prevailing
fashions in tailored garments. and they Will
be seen this season with less of luster than
they had before.
In compliance with the modes, silks, OF
course. largely carry a satin finish, even
when the fabric itself is of rough con-
struction. Satin is fundamentally a direc-
toire requirement. Foulards, for example,
find their popularity due in largest meas
ure to the directoire idea. Standings are
light in construction and satiny, and tat
fetas are useless unless in chiffon finish
except slch az will be used for suits OF
tailored construction.
When We say that the wash goods of thu
season look like the silks in make, patterr
and finish, we tell the whole story. Shan
lungs. foulards. poplins. chiffons. MESA
lines. ETC., are all initiated in wash goods
to meet directoire needs, and the heavier
wesves are used for the tailored suits.
Summing up the situation inasfar as dresi
goods. silks and wash goods are concerned
plain and semi-plain fabrics are fashion
~favortes for dressy wear. and beauty O.
finish and durability are their prime requi
sites. The many yarn-dyed. woven anC
printed novelties give unusual interest Il
the lines that will enter into the construc
ton of street suits.
Perhaps nothing emphasizes the season
novelties as much as the new trimming
The popular laces are the heavy lineI
cluny and Irish varieties. which form
bold and effective contrast to the fin
textiles and nets with which they are used
In trimming there is more than a sugges
, ton OF barbaric design and coloring. Bol'
color contrast. the wide use of metallic ans
Jeweled effects are pronounced features o
the now trimmings for spring. No speeia
period seems to have been drawn upon
but all ags and cllmes seem to have sup
piled the designer with ideas. Besides tn,
crude Bulgarian and Hungarian embroid
cries there are the bright coloring and mucl
use of gold and silver OF the more orienta
designs.
Austria. Turkey. Persia and India hav,
contributed their peculiar designs and orr
entail coloring to the new trimmings. Witt
all this trimming there is no danger o
next season being an inartistic, overdresse'
one, for these trimmings are used In touche
on coat collar. cuffs and here and Their
a bit Of ornamentation on the costume an
dress.
In millinery this same barbaTlc trimming
Is also to be seen, but a great deal OF skill
and art is displayed by designer and trim
mer in handling this trimming. cabochon
and other ornaments and here and there
bit OF hanging will shod these designs an
high colorings.