davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

colors OF the season are also employed.
among them the blues, and aeroplane,
grayish blue green; shades OF dull old
rose. ashes of rose and cedar; passifiore,
a shade Of mauve; amethyst, and some
of the grays. as well as the darker
pastel shades.
Although it seems like an odd con-
ceit, 1T Is not at all unusual for the
wraps for evening wear to be made of
brocaded gauze or crepe or even chiffon.
These hlny materials are mounted over
SILK or satin. and sufficient warmth is
secured for the garments by a thinly
wadded interlining.
Many of the sumptuously beautiful
wraps seen on the stage are sufficiently
tasteful and refined to be suitable for
use in private life One which was re-
Gently worn by an actress noted for her
gowns exemplified the popularity of
black and white. The cloak was of
white broadcloth in a sack model hang
ing straight from the shoulders, but
falling into folds below the waist At
the hip line, and dipping somewhat
tower in front, the cloak was encircled
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28
Garments of BroadcIOth

There is sometimes more or less
braiding on the broadeloth coats which
are used for dress and semidress occa-
sfons, and for this purpose twisted silk
cord or rattail braid are newer and
more often seen than soutache. al
though that is also used in the finer
sizes.
There is trimming seen on some
of the latest coats from Paris which
consists of a wide band OF fine braid
ing or heavy embroidery, encircling the
garment at or below the hips. Tha
same braiding or embroidery Is used
on the sleeves and on the upper part
OF the garment
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28
Coats for the Street

As we have said. the street coats in
tended for service are generally made
of the rougher materials. although
some broadcloths are also seen. One OF
the distinctive features of these. coats
is their severity and plainness; no
trimming is used with the exception of
fur, generally in the form of a shawl
collar sometimes also applied on the
cuffs and as a border down the front
or all around the coat. Sometimes the
coat collars and cuffs are inlaid with
moire velours. of velvet or ottoman
silk. and a few fairly sizable or large
buttons are used for trimming. two
perhaps at the back. one on each
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28
Trimmings on the Coats

A great deal of latitude is allowed in
the ornamentation, although where the
fabric is very rich there is sometimes
little or no trimming in the draped
models. Many Of the cloaks have wide
collars and borders of fur, and others
have them of maraBout or down. Some
are trimmed with hand embroidery.
some with lace. Some have ornamented
applied bands of passementerie or braid
ing. Frogs or buttons are occasionally
used to fasten the garments, and often
the folds of drapery are caught up with
jet or jeweled cabochons.
AS not every one is conversant with
the names of trimmings and materials
IT may be well to say that cabochons
are large button shaped affairs, round
ing on top and fiat at the back, of jet
or jewels, sometimes consisting of a
single stone, or occasionally of a num-
Der Of smaller bits set close together in
the convex form. Passementerie is a
trimming in the shape of band, made
of braid or gimp, and often set with jet
or colored stones; it is sometimes made
of gold or silver threads woven to-
Rether
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28
The Innings

One of the most charming features of
the evening cloaks this winter is the
way in which they are lined. Often the
outside of a wrap will be almost Sc
verely plain, though of very rich ma
terial. but when the garment is opened
all the elaboration that is denied to
the exterior is revealed. Over an inter-
lining OF rich, soft, delicately colored
satin, chiffon or mousseline is often
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

Champagne MORE hat with
facing of black velvet. cham
pagne willow plumes.
Street coat of brown chif-
fon broadcloth; shawl collar
trimmed with brown velvet
and soutache braid Two but
ton closing. Stitched cores set
in at the front and sides.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28
By Mildred Napier Anderson
From Ransoho1 5

IA ANY are the varieties of coats
and wraps and outer garments
which the fashion authorities
have considerably included
among the models for the year There
have been seasons when the comfort
able long coat has been almost, if not
entirely, absent from the styles, but it
IS not so this winter, and the conve-
nient. easily adjusted garment is to be
seen in many attractive forms.
The paletot is one of these It is
made just at present with half fitted
back. and as a rule comes down to the
hem Of the gown. Sometimes it is cut
severely plain, and again it is an in
genious combination of panels and
framed cores, shaped and stitched fan
cifully, yet keeping a certain simplicity
in the main lines and general contour
OF the garment
One Of the virtues Of these wraps is
that they can be worn over a gown or
skirt of any material or color, so that
their usefulness is almost unlimited
For street coats of the palmer and
more serviceable types wide vale dag
onals, homespuns. serges. cheviots and
Scotch mixtures in fact all the
rougher and more hairy fabrics are
favored, while broadcloth occupies a
middle ground. being used for purposes
Of semidress. as well as for the utility
coat and for evening wear The models
for dress occasions are made of velvet
moire antique, cachemire de sole. .moire
velours and many other rich and beau
fsf,,s fairies
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

shirred or tucked so as TO form the
softest and most delightfully."- fluffy Of
Innings. In other cases, plain Innings
suit the style of the garment better;
these are generally of very soft silk or
satins, and then again brocades are
sometimes used.
Scarfs of chiffon or real lace are
often fastened around the neck on the
inside and fall almost to the bottom
of the garment in front, where they
can be loosely tied or allowed to hang
straight under the cloak. This is not
as much of waste and concealment Of
good material as one might imagine,
for the wraps are always slightly and
loosely fastened and often. slip open
while they are being worn. revealing the
hidden charms of the under side.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

of two or more of them in such a way
that they cannot be exactly classified.
On the whole the wraps, like the gowns,
have taken on draped and festooned
appearance, and many are made in the
dolman shape, with a loose drapery
covering the arms and hanging we'll
down toward the bottom of the gar
ment. The pleated models are also
seen, and some which are quite simple
and sacklike in character. The wraps
range in size all the way from the cloak
of hip length to the long garment
reaching the hem of the skirt.
One of the prime requisites of an even
ing coat is that it shall not be in the
least heavy, since it is often to be worn
over the filmiest and most crushable of
gowns. For this reason all of the ma
terials of which the cloaks are made
are remarkable for their lightness. The
silks and chiffon broadcloths used for
the purpose are uncommonly soft and
delicate in texture, and the velvets this
year are new weave which Is almost
as light and as supple as satin.
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28
The Popular Scarf

The use of scarfs for this purpose
is another instance of their general
utility this season; there has never been
a time when these graceful, adaptable
accessories of dress have been used
more generally or in a greater variety
The San Francisco call., 1909-11-28

From the City OF FariS,
Tricorne hat of gray beaver:
with peacock green wing and
band of passennenterie-
) Street coat OF heavy diagonal
serge IN raisin, with the new
framed side CORES and panelsa
back: lined with raisin satin.
Shawl collar; bishop sleeves.
Front closing with two large
let and gold buttons; self
covesca buttons used for trim-
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-28
AXMEN
CLEAR TWO HIGHWAYS
Open Up Tonquin- and Lewis
Streets to Traffic

Two streets long held in private pos
session were forcibly cleared yester-
day while cheering neighborhood
looked. on, near the northern end of
Lyon street. Under orders from the
board of works Policeman James T.
Beach and 20 laborers of the depart
ment proceeded to Tonquin and Lewis
streets, where the highways were still
barred to traffice by fences, trees and
buildings held by the estate of Ru-
dolph Hermann and with axes and
shovels demolished the obstructions.
Some months ago the city won the
suit as to title in the supreme court
It's mandate as to Lyon street has been
obeyed by the heirs of Hermann, but
no move had been made toward clear
ing the other streets.
Mat Sullivan secured a stay through
Commissioner Casey when the mu-
nicipal axmen were about to destroy q
building in their path. unon the under
standing that it would be moved back
upon private land.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-28
CURES ECZEMA QUICKLY
New Discovery Has Revolufionized the
Treatment of skin Diseases

Nothing in the history of medicine
has ever approached the success OF ths
marvellous skin remedy known as pos
lam. which. ii is safe to say. has cured
more cases of eczema and skin diseases
than any remedy ever offered for these
ills.
The success of poslam is not at all
surprising when il is considered that
even very small quantity applied 10
the skin stops itching Immediately anu
cures chronic cases in two weeks. the
very worst cases OF eczema. as well as
acne, herpes. letter, piles. salt rheum,
rash. crusted humors. scaly scalp and
every form of itch yield to IL readily.
Blemishes such as pimples. red noses
muddy and infamed skin disappear al
most Immediately when poslam Is APP
Piled, the complexion being cleared
overnight
Every druggist keeps both the so cent
size (for minor troubles) and the 81
jar. and either OF these may be OBJ
tanned in San Francisco at the Owl
Drug Co.. as well as other reliable drug
stores
But no one is even asked to purchase
posiam without first obtaining an ex-
perimental package. which will be sent
by mail. free OF charge. upon request.
by the Emergency Laboratories. 80 West
Twenty fifth street, New York City.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-28
IDEALS HARD BLOW
TO WINE MAKERS
Internal Revenue Commissioner
Rules Raisin Made Product
Is Fully Taxable
Declares Practice of Rectifiers
in Making Mash Is an
Evasion of Law

WASHINGTON. Sept. 27.-Raisin wine
is taxable. according to a decision rem
dered today by Commissioner of Inter
nal Revenue Cabell. The tax will take
effect October 1 next. All internal rev.
enue agents were notified of the deci-
sion today by telegraph.
The agents have been advised that
what is known as circular 49," dated
November 21, 1908. prohibiting rectifers
from making. so called wine mash and
the product thereof in compound liquors
is approved, and that further suspen-
sions of the order are refused.
The fight has been on for the last five
years, and the question raised was
whether such a mash could be ferment-
ed on the premises of a rectifier and
the product of such fermentation used
In connection with spirits. wines.
liquors or other articles in the prepara-
tion or manufacture of compound
liquors.
The penalty involved is from $500 TO
$4,000 fine and from six months TO two
years Imprisonment for each offense.
The mash covered in today's decision.
which involves interests in various parts
of the country, is held to be made and
fermented by rectifiers manifestly for
no other purpose than to produce a
liquor free from tax sufficiently high in
alcoholic strength as to make unneces-
sary the addition of tax paid spirits.
The rectifiers and other PERSONS who
are not authorized distiIlers will have
to stop its manufacture next Thursday
Many concerns, particularly in San
Francisco, New Orleans. st. Louis and
Cincinnati, have fought against this
ruling, contending that they were not
subject to government regulations.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-28
COUGHING BURST
BLOOD VESSEL
Says Danger Avoided and Cures
Coughs in Hours

A writer for the medical press
states that coughing ia responsible for
the bursting of blood vessels quite
frequently. A cough or cold means
Inflammation (fever) and congestion
and these in turn indicate that the
body is full of poisons and waste mat
ter. Simple relief, as found in pat
ent cough medicines, and whiskey
often result in more harm than good
as they cause more congestion
tonic laxative cough syrup will work
marvels and here follows pre-
scription which Is becoming famous
for its prompt relief and thorough
cures. 1t rids the system OF the cause,
except il be consumption. Don't wait
for consumption to grasp its victim,
but begin this treatment. which cures
some in five hours. Mix in a bottle,
one-half ounce fluid wild cherry bark.
one ounce compound essence cardiol
and three ounces syrup white pine
compound. Take twenty drops every
half hour for four hours. Then one
half to one teaspoonful three or four
times a day. Give children less ac-
cording to age.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-28
DR.. Cook Answers
Charges Made BY
Rival Explorer

NEW YORK, Sept. 27.-Dr. Frederick
4. Cook tonight made the following
formal answer to some of the charges
brought against him by Commander
Pesry:
Commander Peary says that my
sledges were not fitted to arctic
travel and that he would not care
to voyage the arctic with them.
The only sledge Commander
Peary saw was half one, which
had given to Whitney as SOU
venir. The remainder of 1T had
been used to make bows and ar
rows.
As to my reasons for leaving
my instruments with Whitney, he
had told me that the Eric was
coming to Etah and would take
him over to the American sideNto
hunt big game and would come
back later to Annatook. The dis
tance from Annatook to Uper-
navik by the route which | was
compelled to follow was nearly
700 miles. In that journey 1 had
to travel over highland in two
places, with glaciers and difficult
places to negotiate. The ice was
extremely rough and there was
good deal of water to be ex-
pected that would have subjected
the instruments to a risk which
was entirely unnecessary when
Whitney awaited a ship to go to
Etah for him, upon which he ex-
pected to return direct TO Amer
lea. By going to Upernavik l
hoped to get back by the end OF
July or the middle of August. l
wanted to see my family as soon
as possible, as / had been sepa-
rated from them more than two
years, while Whitney did not ex-
pect to get back before October.
LAS to the charge that 1 had
not found traces of Commander
Pearys. records at Cape Thomas
Hubbard: The point which Com
mander Peary would call Cape
Thomas = Hubbard is round
promontory and it would be diff
ficult to find any distinct point
which could be positively recog-
nized as Cape Thomas Hubbard.
From Commander Peary's map I
am absolutely unable to locate
Cape Thomas Hubbard. We did
not search for any cache where
records might be deposited. In
fact. 1 did not know that Peary
had left any records there.
"Considerab bly, to the west 1
did see a rock which might have
been a cache. but it might have
been merely a clump of rocks. l
was at very long distance from
it and there was no reason why
1 should have searched. l left a
cache of provisions close to the
beginning of the cliffs of what
Sverdrup puts down as Svarte-
voeg. There was no Indication
where we left our provisions.
''The other poins of the so
called charges have been replied
to in detail on several occasions.
I will answer everything in the
most formal way when Com
mander Peary prints or makes
public his other points. My re-
ply then will be given out as a
written statement
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-28
BOXER war HERO
DYING IN MARIN
Rewarded and Decorated by the
French Government, August
Cham0t Now PennilesS
Especial Dispatch 10 The Call

LARKsPUR. Sept. 27.-Chevalier Aug
ust Chamot, the man who was honored
by half a dozen nations for his heroism
in the Boxer war. is failing so rapidly
in an humble cottage here that his
death is now expected at almost any
moment.
week ago when he married the
nurse who had been faithful to him
after his divorce and loss of fortune he
was still able TO talk OF his adventures
during the siege of Peking and of the
wealth and decorations OF honor which
rewarded his bravery.
Today he is una BILE to speak or recog-
nize the few friends who visit him. No
financial help has been given, and al
though his sister, Mrs. L. Taller, is on
her way from Switzerland to bring him
aid there is slight chance of her seeing
him alive.
In fact, his death is only a question
Of hours. and Chamot has said: Why
should my sister come now, when am
dying? / asked them to send me trans
portation that 1 mis- ght go home into the
mountains of Switzerland in last f1ght
for my life, and they replied, You must
have great appetite. What became Of
your fortune?
Now it is too late. IL she would not
bring me back alive, why should she
ccme now to take me home in my cof-
fn?"
When Chamot was given 100000 by
the French government at the time he
received the decoration of the Legion
of Honor he gave his family in Switz-
erland a large sum of money, and their
refusal to send him aid when he became
i'll and penniless later was one of the
hardest blows of his unfortunate down.
fall.
Mrs. Chamot, who was Miss Elizabeth
Dollar, his nurse, has lost none of her
loyalty to him now that he is unable to
see or speak. He has been removed
from his day couch on the porch to an
inner room, and she is constantly by his
side, watching over him and interpret
ing his every wish.
He has changed so much in the last
few days" she said. He suffers great
ly and can not even speak to me. He
used to be so gallant, and even when
the outlook was blackeet he had al
ways something quaint and humorous
to say. He was the most courteous OF
men, and SO thoughtful. In the last
day or so he has become almost uncon-
on him, and 1 fear that perhaps tonight
or tomorrow the end will come. No,
do not know what 1 will do or where
shall go. / have been so in the ha biz
of caring for him that when he is gone
| it will seem as If my life is gone Also
William Mccarthy. brother of Cha
mots first wife, called at the cottage
today. He was strongly affected by the
once noted mans condition, but accord.
ing to Mrs. Chamot no help was to come
from the Mccarthy family. A young
German boy. Hertert Michael, employed
in the Escalle vineyards, has attached
himself to Chevalier Chamot because
the dying man used to converse with
him in the boys native tongue The
lad snatches every moment of rest from
his work in the vineyard to run err
rands. Chamot is his hero. and he, like
the nurse, will remain with him until
the end.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-28
IMPERIAL VALLEY LAND
GRABBERS PLEAD GUILTY
Admit Defrauding Government
and Are Fined $3.50

Los ANGELES. Sept. 27.-Two pleas
of guilty We're entered today In the I'm
perial valley land fraud cases now be-
ing heard before Judge welborn in the
federal district court.
H. c. Oakley pleaded guilty to one
count in an Indictment charging him
with attempting to defraud the govern
ment and was fined $3.50.
similar plea was entered by.Arthur
II. Chaplain and the court imposed a
fine of $3.50. All other cases against
Chaplain were dismissed
The charge against John W. Oakley,
who also was accused in the grand
jury Indictment, was dismissed
The trials of David II. Chaplin. Paul
HI. McPherrin and Arthur H. Chaplain,
who were indicted by the grand jury
and charged with conspiracy to de-
fraud the government out of govern
ment lands, are still in progress.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-28
THREATENED STRIKE IN
BUTTE CAMP AVERTED
Miners Win Victory and Seced-
ing Engineers Are Reinstated

BUTTE. Mont. Sept. 27-The labor
trouble which. threatened to tie up this
camp, shut down the smelters in An
aconda and Great Falls and throw
$4,000 persons out of work throughout
the state, has been settled.
While no official statement of the
agreement has been given out 1t is
known that the contention of the. min
ers' union has been sustained and that
the seeding engineers who withdrew
from the western federation of miners
have gone back into the fold. All will
be received and given their old posi-
tions.
President Meyer of the western fed
Grafton is here and is expected to make
a statement later in the day.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-28
HEAVY LIQUIDATION
HITS COTTON MARKET
Stop Loss Selling Climax to
Day of Sagging Prices

NEW YORK. Sept. "a severe de-
cline occurred in the cotton market
late today as the result of heavy liqui-
dation and stop loss selling, the latter
developing just before the close, after
a day of gradually sagging prices The
market closed weak on a net decline
of 2s to 3s points.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-28
SUES NAPA BANKERS
FOR SIS, 900 DAMAGES
Merchant Alleges His Checks
Were Not Honored
[Specini Dispafch 10 The Canl

NAPA, Sept. PA. Simonoff. for
merly q merchant in this city. began
suit yesterday against James H. Good
man e. Co. the bankers. for $4,000.
Simonof alleges that he had money in
the bank when he left Napa to go into
business in San Francisco and that he
drew checks on the Goodman bank
which they refused TO honor.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-28
Williams Will Investigate

Williams declared that he viii thor
osghly Investigate conditions on the
metropolitan tracks before arriving at
q decision as TO the matter of betting.
He is in close touch with the magnates
who are at the head of racing in the
east. and will be able TO learn from
them how matters have Jared under the
conditions that have existed this sea-
son.
While Williams would not give any
lntimat ton OF what the New California
jockey club will do in the matter of
betting. he said that the law would be
fully complied with. Just what that
means is still somewhat Of an enigma
Winter Racing Here
Each year California has become a
more important center for winter rae
ing and horsemen are commencing to
plan for the months that follow the
closing Of the sport in the east and or
the Canadian circuits, as well as I'm the
northwest and minor points, so VIII
hams' announcement at this time is OF
interest to racing men in all parts of
the country
Ihis winter racing will be held ir
Florida and also at JGarez. Mexico. bu,
many owners have delayed in making
any arrangements until some announce
ment was issued regarding the plans
of the California tracks. The fact
that Williams announces season az
the Oakland track will cause MANY
stables to be shipped here from eastern
points. The horses racing at Vancouver
and at Salt Lake viii also be shipped
TO Emeryville.
The Arcadia Track
There has been no official statement
as TO what will be done by the asso.
citation conducting the Arcadia track
az Los Angeles. but in an interview
in New York some weeks ago George
Rose. one OF the principal stock hold
ers, said that it was likely that II
racing was held at the southern track
the season would be curtailed- to abou
20 days.
In sporting circles various opinions
have been expressed as to the probable
success OF meeting conducted at Oak
land under the oral betting system
Some well Informed racing men saic
last night that they thought the meet
ing would pay, while others believed
II would take some time to bring tht
game up to a profitable basis under
such conditions.
The matter of stakes and purses will
particularly interest the horsemen. Ir
recent years there has been no purs.
at Oakland with a value of less thar
$500, and the stakes have reached tn.
$4,000 added mark The latter sun
was added TO the Burns handicap las
season. Secretary Treat said that no
stake blanks will be issued until Presi.
dent Williams forms his plans.
The length Of the racing season is
another thing that will depend upor
conditions The sport will commence
about two weeks later than last year
November having been the opening
day.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-28

WILL GIVE MINSTREL sHow-Tne Academy
tract Improvement club will give a dance
and minstrel entertainment the night Of
October z in Excelsior hall. Mission street
and Onondaga avenue, for the beneft or
Corpus Christi church. The cooperation OF =
number of the city's best vocal ana instru-
mental musicians has been secured for the
occasion.
The San Francisco call., 1909-09-28

To rent your rooms call up Kearny
s6 and we will send solicitor to call
on you. Call Want Ads will rent those
vacant rooms for you.