Evening star., 1909-08-28

soft blue tones springing up at one side.
This hussar hat, by the by. Is put on in
exactly the chic Partisan manner. The
hat is first jammed down over the hair.
the hands tugging firmly at either side OF
the brim for the forward pull: then
flip of the fingers the left side sends
the turhan rakishly upward just back
of the ear-and there you are.
Last spring the very exclusive tailors
were trying TO induce their patrons 10
dispense with pockets entirely, advocating
the purity of unhroken, slender lines. Now
the pocket is lifted TO a place of honor
far out Of proportion to its usefulness;
and indeed many of the new pockets ara
not intended for use a all, but merely
as ornaments. These big pockets. or
rather flaps. ara placed on the coat we'll
below the hip line, as instancnd in the
Bechoff-David blue topcoat, which shows
these enormous pockei flaps. braided in
pattern to match the braidng done in
panel effect on the side OF the garment.
Often the pocket is merely an eX-
cuse for change in the line Of the coat
which breaks into peats below the ap-
pliuued pocket flap. A very handsome
topcoat by Bernard is of dull green chew
lot with a border of dark skunk fur all
around, and there is no other ornamental
tion save the huge pockets placed we'll
below the hip and toward the back.
Watch pockets on the upper part or the
coat are often set in obliquely, rather
than directly across the garment. the line
of the opening sloping downward from
front to back and the pocket being set
toward the arm side of the coat. French
women adore gay little colored pocket
handkerchefs. which they thrust know
ingly into these breast pockets Very
heavy link chains are also used over the
coat, the watch. bonbonniere or lorgnette
at the end OF the chain being thrust into
the coat pocket.
DO not have hat covered with perish
able flowers. but choose rough straw
shape and smart bow.
Many of the smartest gowns have the
shawl effect on the front, ana the scarfs
this year have been drawn so closely
down over the shoulders that they have
caused quite a revival of the early Vic
torian shoulders.
One of the new skirts is known as the
gored corselet skirt. The cores are quite
narrow at the top and form a low corselet
with one point at the front. usually made
with the front panel, and two at the back.
Dance and Music. and drop of each
is to Re used on ones handkerchief.
Resting in Spirit in Summer.
TT is not enough merely to transport
L the body to fresh fields and pastures
new for the summer vacation. The mind
also should be given a rest from home
environment. The woman who packs her
trunk full OF bureau scarfs, photographs,
sofa cushions and the like to make the
summer hotel room seem homelike" won
derS why her raveled nerves do not
smooth out by fall The summer hotel
rooms may be bare and the furnishings
intolerably ugly, but the very change is
beneficial. and when one reaches ones
cozy domicile again all the home posses
sions will seem doubly dear from the
change and rest.
Another Hope for the Stout Woman.
THERE is little shop just off the
fashiona BILE Rue de la Paix in Paris
which makes wonderful reducing gar
ments" guaranteed 10 bring down obsti-
nate hips to moyenage mea asurements.
The latest is a rubber hip yoke which
fits skin-tight and is provided with eight
stout straps. which may be drawn in as
the inches melt away. Each hip reducer
is made TO order and is to be worn three
hours day during a brisk walk. corsets
being dispensed with at this time and a
long, loose top coat covering the figure.
The applicant for leanness is assured
that ten younds a week may be dropped
in this way.