davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-24

fashion this autumn and are used as trim
ming for velvet and beaver hats. as are
also the embroidered and brocaded velvet
ribbons. All these trimmings require
to be most carefully handled. If there is
too much of the trimming the effect is
heavy and unbecoming. and while the
most elaborate qualities are extremely ex-
pensive there are great many low priced
ones, so the temptation to use a lot Of
such trimming is great when economy
has to be considered. But be it remem-
bered that small amount of the most
expensive kind will look far better than
quantity of the cheaper grades. Gold
cords and tassels are effective, but not
smart, and really are far better suited to
clIildren's and young girls hats, although
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-24

are favorite shapes this winter. They
were extremely popular abroad this sum
mer made in black tulle and fine Grin.
In velvet or fur they are even more be-
coming, and the trimming can be either
high or low, as is best for the wearer.
They are worn well down on the head,
but are so adjusted as TO be higher at the
left side so that the hair at that side can
be SEEN At the other side it is nearly
hidden 1nder the folds of velvet )r fur.
Then there arc shapes in the sharpest
contrast. with the brim turned up sharply
at the left side. and quite wide brim 1t
is. Generally speaking, this is more he
coming than the turned down brim. and
is certainly newer at the mo- eat.
Gold and silver fancy braids are In
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-24

gerous to advocate too rashy. Color
and color contrasts require
u well educated taste and innate knowl-
edge of color. Far better is it TO stick
to one color or all black rather than to
risk combining two absolutely antagonis-
tic and unbecoming shades, which will
make not only the hat but the wearer
thereof appear grotesque. The all black
hat is the safest investment as n rule
and it is contended by women of conserva-
tive taste that it is appropriate with a
gown of any color. There are certainly
few colors with which it does not look
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-24

there are certainly to be seen this year
hats designed for older women on which
are these same cords and tassels.
When selecting hats for the winter
great care should be taken TO have the
lines becoming as well as color and ma
terial The turban with hrim covered
with soft folds of velvet or cloth is al
most invariably becoming, while the hard.
stiff brim of felt or beaver is apt to be
extremely trying. A facing of velvet will
often remedy this, and a fold Of velvet
around the edge will soften it still more:
Ostrich tips, so arranged that they fail
over the edge of the hrim, or soft bows
of velvet will also help amazingly, and
all these points are well worth consider
lation.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-24

well, and smart black hat is a safe
choice to make, but if the street costumee
is dark red or purple hat to match VIII
be more becoming These fiat contradic-
tions are what make the selection of
hat SO difficult a task to the average
woman with the average income. But
the well-gowned woman, who is well
gowned on a small income, buys her
gowns as well asher hats most carefully,
and black or the colors with which black
hat will look the best are invariably her
choice.
The Directoire turban and a wide toque
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-24

back it would be difficult to select more
becoming fashion.
Aigrettes aud egrets, in spite of the
unwearied efforts of the Audubon So
ciety, trim the most of the hats Intended
to be worn with an elaborate style of
gown, and the number of these expen-
sive feathers that can be grouped upon a
hat Of medium size is almost unbelieva-
BILE, as is also the price asked. There
are many limitations of the real feathers
made feathers, they are called-in white
and in black, that are most effective and
far less costly, but where the cost does
not have to be considered the real feather
is invariably selected. Ostrich plumes
are by no means relegated to the back
ground, although rumors to that effect
have gone the rounds of good society.
There are charm aud grace about a
handsome ostrich feather that cannot well
be done away with, aud ostrich feathers
are always so becoming. There are many
and various styles of ostrich feathers,
that is, the feather is not always left in
its natural condition, but is pulled out, or
has bits of other feathers or Aigrettes
knotted into 1t in some strange and mys-
lerlOuS HdnHeE tndl. gives CSrldlH HUI
viduality to it and makes it quite differ
ent from the long, graceful, natural
plume. Both the long plumes and the
short ostrich tips are used in trimming
the new hats Once again, there is the
soft velvet turban with the one long
plume around it and the end of the
plume falling over the hair. Then there
is the pompon effect of the several short
tips together, or both long and short ones
combined so as to give both height and
breadth to what might otherwise be too
fiat a shape.
Beavers and Rough Felts.
The beaver hats, or rough felt us they
are sometimes called, are in style this
winter and are most attractive and be-
coming made of the same color as the
gown with which they nre worn. In all
black there arc also great number of
most becoming shapes, and there is now
unusual choice in the sizes from the quite
small rather stiff. useful hat, to the large
but not exaggerated picture hat that
never goes entirely out of fashion, but is
always worn for receptions and theatre.
One of the new fashions is the combining
of two materials--felt smooth or rough
with velvet. the crown of the velvet and
the brim also faced with it, This idea isl
carried out all in one tone of color as a |
rule, the contrast in the fabrics furnish |
ing sufficient contrast in effect Still, !
for those who prefer something more
striking there is the combination of white |
and black or gray and black or the velvet
of deeper tone than the felt. These are
minor details that are left to the individ-
ual taste to decide. The fashion when
two colors are combined is rather dam !
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-24

I1A1 i1IucIlNdu NOhiCh ~ 49,
best dressed In the world and
spend more money for clothes
than those of any other nation is
conceded. But can American
women be as satisfactorily
Fgowned when they depend solely on Amer
lean talent for the designing and making
of their dresses as when they rely on
Partisan taste and skill?
Do American dressmakers turn nat
urally TO the Partisan creators OF FASH
ions aud as naturally copy their designs
or are they compelled to do so in order
that the home production may reach the
high standard demanded by the perfectly
gowned American women?
Can the great dress designers of the
French capital be ignored, and can the
American dressmaker stand alone and
present TO the world creations that would
equal or surpass those of the established
Partisan dressmakers?
Do Parisians create for Parisians alone!
Do they devote any especial time ana
thought to their American clients? Is the
taste of any one designer accepted as abb
solute?
Let the dressmakers themselves an
swer the questions. They are the ones
who go to Paris twice year, year after
year, and it is they who understand best
what the French model offers and what
the American woman wants.
Miss Mollie O'Hara, of No. q East
Forty-ninth street. one of the leading
dressmakers, in New York city, whose
clientele includes some of its admittedly
best gowned women, was most emphatic
in stating that dressmakers over here
could not possibly get OH without the
French models.
Depending on Paris.
"Who would create gowns If we did
not depend on the ParisiansF asked Miss
lO'Hara. 1--WE could not. There are no
people in the world so well suited, tenn
Iperamentally, nrtstically and geographl-
cally, to prepare models for the whole
world as the Partisan dressmakers. Ihey
have the finest fabrics, the best trim
miues in the world TO choose from, ana
not only do manufacturers present sam
ples to them before weaving the material,
but weavers of costly silks, satins and
veIvets work in harmony with the dress
makers, and often help each other by
Suggesting changes.
"In this country such fnbrics are not
manufactured and neither arc they placed
at the dressmaSers' disposal as early IN
the season as the French manufactures
offers them to his customers
/"American women buy the simplest
models that the Persian dressmaker Of
fers. The German likes, as the Frencn
express it, to have her money show in the
trimming but our women prefer very
little decoration and they like simple lines.
At first the French did not understand this
taste of ours, but now they are begin
ming to, and each season they have several
models that are intended for the Ameri-
can buyer. The Americans have often
made suggestion as to a more attractive
line or ARRANGEMENT of trimming and
while the French did not at first receive
the suggestion kindly they now realize that
the American woman has excellent taste
and that 'she understands perfectly the
style of gown that suits her.
Smart American women go to Paris
twice year, just as the dressmakers
do, and they buy many of their gowns
over there. Some they get of us, and they
know as much about the models that the
Los Angeles herald., 1909-10-24
BY A. T. ASHMORE.

Y ILLINERY is always an en-
crossing topic of conversation
and thought and topic that
fairly demands the close atten-
. ton of all rational womanllind
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-02-09
CROMWELL TESTIFIES
ABOUT CANAL SCANDAL
Counsel of Panama Canal Company
of France an Important Witness
Before New York Grand Jury
(By Associated Press.l

NEW YORK, Feb. s.-Wfllian Nelson
Cromwell, who was counsel to the Pana-
ma Canal company of France, the rights
Of which were purchased by the United
States government, was witness before
the federal grand jury today in the gov
ernments proceedings against the New
York World and others in connection with
alleged libelous publications regarding the
Panama Canal purchase. It was expected
that Mr.. Cromwells testimony would be
on the lines Of a statement which he
made public on December r. last, in
which he declared neither he nor anyone
connected with his law firm had any stock
in the Panama Canal company; that he
was positive no man in public in America
had any pecuniary interest in the canal
and that Douglas Robinson and Charles
H. Taft had no connection with Panama
canal matters. When District Attorney
Jerome was asked today If he had drop
ped the Panama investigation he said:
1.-THE prosecution IN the state courts
must take precedence over tnat m ts4a
federal courts to get results. A proseca1-
tion of the same person in the federal
courts would be a bar to the prosecution
in the state courts
81 am not going to enter in any speed
contest 70 get the Indictment in this case
and until I hear from the attorney gem
eral. that am to have the precedence
in this particular case, I shall take no
STEP
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-02-09
FIGHT FOR CRUM
IS UP IN SENATE
REPUBLICANS CREATE CoNsTER-
NATION IN RANKS OF DEMO
Gratis BY SUDDENLY REVERT
ING TO NOMINATION OF NEGRO
BY Ralph Smith

WASHINGTON, Feb. s.-The Crum
case was Unexpectedly taken up in the
senate this afternoon on motion OF SEN
ator Frye, who has led the fight for the
confirmation Of the negro. and the Dem
ocrats are considerably excited over the
sudden turn the affair has taken.
They believe that fierce fight has been
precipitated and they are trying to To-
cate the motive that caused Senator
Frye to throw down the gauge Of bat
tie. 1t is stated that perhaps President
elect Taft has reiterated his desire to
have the Crum case disposed Of before
he is inaugurated and that the Republ-
cans are making a final rally to his
call.
This view, however. is not accepted az
generally correct and by some the new
move is attributed to unfortunate ut
on the floor of the senate by
Democrats. By others it IS believed that
the announced purpose of the Republi-
cans to abandon Crum was trick and
nothing more, II being their idea to
eaten the Democrats mapping.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-02-09
FIRST WRECK REPORTS
ARE GREATLY EXAGGERATED


MEMPHIS. Tenn. Feb. s.-News OF the
wreck spread rapidly in Memphis. At
first II was reported that as many as Is
we're killed and people with friends or
relatives likely TO be on the train
thronged Offices Of the Illinois Central
and the depots trying. to get information.
The first word OF the wreck came TO
the Illinois Central office long before
daybreak- The police station was noti-
fed as the roundup OF officials and doc
tors was begun Two coaches were hur-
riedly made UP at the Poplar street sta
ton and a switch engine came I'D from
the south yards. II was q few minutes
after daybreak when the special pulled
out and hurried south to the scene.
Two men on the special train who hur-
ried to the scene with frantic interest.
were the engineer and conductor. At the
throttle OF the engine OF the relief train
was. Dave Barnett, whose brother was
engineer OF the wrecked train. while Con-
ductor Jack Order in charge, knew his
father-in-law. Captain Billy Woods, was
In charge OF the wrecked train, and
feared his own wife and baby were on
e.
Barnett found his brother seriously
hurt crider learned his wife and baby
had not taken the train and that hts IA
ther-in-law escaped uninjured.
Mr.. Woods. who Is a well-known Mis-
sissippi politician and former member
OF Governor Vardaman's stan. was I'm the
rear OF the train, and escaped with moth
ing more tcsn a shaking I'D.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-02-09
SLAYER'S DAUGHTER
ON WITNESS STAND
COUNSEL ENDEAVORS TO SHOW
THAT MISS ESTELLE SMITH
HAD NOTICED SIGNS OF INSAN-
ITY IN FATHER.

COLUMBUS, Miss, Feb. S.-Miss Es-
telle Smith, who was on the witness stand
when the trial of c. r. Smith, for the
murder of z. A. Laurent, was adjourned
Saturday last, resumed the stand again
today.
Witness was asked about the remark
attributed by the defendant to Miss Lelita
King, in which she said she had done all
the mischief she could here and never
intended to visit Mississippi again.
In reply witnes said the remark was
made in a light vein, and she never paid
any attention to it.
Counsel for the defense endeavored to
show that the witness had noticed signs
of insanity in her father long before the
killing of Laurent, and had told the
friends of the family of his condition.
Several letters were read to the jury,
and they indicated that there dwelt in the
mind of Smith a constant fear that his
daughter would form undesirable ac-
quaintances.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-02-09
HONORARY ESCORT NAMED
AS BODYGUARD FOR TAFT
AT BIG INAUGURAL BALL
States and Territories Will Have Representatives On
Honor Roll-Georgia Will Be Represented On Escort
by Henry Hammond-List of Members.

Inns Graves, Bennington; Illinois, Colonel
Frederick H. Smith, Peoria; Kansas, j.
B. Case. Abilene; South Carolina, Hugh
s. Legare; Rhode Island, H p Cross,
Providence; Connecticut, Louis B. Chen
ey, Hartford; Washington, John H. Nc
Graw. Seattle; Wisconsin. Alfred T. Rog-
ers. Madison: West Virginia, Captain
John A. Thayer, Charleston; Massachu-
sets, Col George H Doty, Boston; Penn
sylvania, Col. ]. H. Schoonmaker, Pitts
burg; South Dakota. c. B. Collins; Ne
vada, Oscar ]. Smith. Reno; Michigan.
Albert Stickney, Grand Rapids; Ken
lucky, Morris B. Belknap. Louisville;
North Carolina, Ernest NJ. Green, Raj
eigh; Nebraska, Isador Zeigler, Omaha /;
Tennessee. c. H. Raine, Memphis; Ala
bama, Albert p. Bush, Mobile Mississip-
pi. Walter Weaver; Oregon. S. L. Kline,
CORVALLIS; Georgia. Henry Hammond;
Arkansas, James w. Cochran; Virginia,
the mayor OF Stanton; Maine. Chandler
Hale; District OF Columbia, Larz Ander-
son; the Philippines, Charles A. Otis.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-02-09
|. 8 n. SEEKS TO
ENJO|N THE STATE
ASKS ORDER TO PREVENT COL
LECTION OF BACK TAXES ON
Ssss; 600 OF. ATLANTA e WEST
POINT DEBENTURES.

The Louisville and Nashville. road has
filed bill in the United States court, in
which it petitions that William A.
Wright comptroller general be restrain
ed from levying back-taxes on $SSS, 800
worth of debentures, or certificates of in
debtednes, of the Atlanta and West Point
road. The petition also asks that the
Georgia road be restrained from paying
such taxes.
Judge Newman set March 18th as date
for hearing the case, and issued such tenn
porary restraining orders as were prayed
for.
The debentures on which the effort is
being made to collect back taxes were
transferred to the Louisville and Nashville
road by the Georgia road, together with
other property Of the Atlatna and West
Point, but, according to the bill, the
taxes are to be levied under the conten-
ton that the debentures are the property
of the Georgia road. 1t insists that the
Georgia road. If not restrained, will pay
the taxes and then call upon it for re-
endorsement.
The taxes in question extended over the
period embraced between the years 1899
and 1908. Thy are school taxes for the
county Of Richmond.
In denying the legality OF the taxes the
Louisville and Nashville road insists that
their enforcement would be discrimina-
tive.
In the bill it says:
"Other property taxable in Augusta dur
ing said years QS99-19OS) was knowingly,
purposely, and Intentionally omitted by
the taxing officers of said city from tax
books, and knowingly, purposely, and in
tentionally relieved Of taxation"
1t says further that real estate in Au-
gusta is assessed at 70 per cent, while the
property Of the roads is assessed at full
par value.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-02-09
Resolutions VIII Be Introduced
in House Tuesday, Previd-
ing For Radical Changes In
Powers of Speaker.
CANNON CAN'T SERVE
ON ANY COMMITTEES
IF RESOLUTIONS PASS
Presiding Officer VIII Not Be AL
lowed To Have Place on Commit
tee on Rules, Nor Power To APP
point Various Chairmen.
By AsssoiAtsd Prsas.l

WASHINGTON. Feb. s.-Fhe house
'ansurgents" who are agitating a change
In the rules governing that body, will in
troduce a resolution tomorrow providing
for radical changes which are proposed
to limit the power OF the speaker.
The conditions proposed would make 1t
impossible for the speaker to be a MEM
Der OF any standing or conference COM
mittee. The speaker is now a member Of
the committee on rules, to which the res
oIution will be referred.
1t also takes from the speaker power
to appoint the standing committees. this
power being given to a committee on
rules and committees. The latter COM
mittee is created to consist of fifteen
members. nine of whom shall belong to
the party having a majority.
The members Will be selected accord
ing to geographical groups Of the states.
The members from each group shall Sc
lect their representation on the commit
tee on rules and committees.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-02-09
CBy Associated Press. }

SPRINGFIELD, o., Feb. S.-That an at
tempt was made upon President Lincoln's
life in Baltimore as he was on his way
to Washington to take Office is told by
Mrs. Coggeshall, widow of the Springfield
man who haved the president from death.
All these years the story has remained
a secret with Mrs. Coggeshall, to whom
1t was told by her husband in secrecy.
Lincoln told no one of 1t, neither in his
family nor in his cabinet. 1t comes to
light now merely because Mrs. Coggeshall
believes its telling can do no harm and
that it may be an interesting addition to
the Lincoln literature of the month.
Her story is that bomb was hurled
into the coach occupied by Lincoln as it
was standing in the station In Baltimore,
and that her husband first showed Lin
coin through the door of the car and
then hurled the bomb through a window
of the coach away from the crowd.
Coggeshall, who was one of the war
presidents close friends, accompanied
him from Columbus, o., to Washington.
He was later sent by Lincoln as minister
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-02-09
SPECIAL PLEA MADE
FOR BAIL FOR MORSE
Application VIII Be Filed With U. S.
Circuit Court for Release of For
mer Ice King

NEW YORK, Feb. s.-Application will
be made in the United States circuit court
Of appeals this week to admit Charles w.
Morse, the former banker to bail pending
argument on his appeal from the fifteen
year sentence in the federal prison in
Atlanta for violating the national banking
laws.
Morse is in the Tombs and application
for bail heretofore has been refused, but
permission has been given to his counsel
to make further application when the ap-
peal was filed. The convicted bankers
counsel are greatly encouraged at the
number Of prominent men who have sign
ed the petition asking that he be admit
ted TO bail.
Among the signers are many well known
merchants, railroad men, bankers, brok-
ers and prominent men OF affairs. It Is
said also that John w. McKinnon, Hqui-
dating agent of the National Bank Of
North America, where Morse was vice.
president during the panic, has signed the
petition and that stockholders of the bank
will make a special plea for Morse.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-02-09
MILLIONAIRE STAR
IN DIVORCE TRIAL
Lemps of st. Louis Suing for Divorce
and Big Legal Battle is on for
Custody of Only Son
az Assceiated Press.)

ST. LOUIS, Feb. S.-The divorce SUITS
which Lillian Handlan Lemp and her
husband, William j. Lemp, Jr., filed
against each other came to trial in tho
st. Louis circuit court today before Judge
Hitchcock. Two hours before the pro-
ceedings began an audience Of fashiona-
bly, attired men and women had arrived.
The suit for divorce, for alimony and
for custody Of William ]. Lemp. III.
was filed by Mrs Lemp, but immediate
ly thereafter Mr.. Lemp fled cross-bill.
also asking for divorce and the custody OF
the child.
Mrs Lemp asks no stipulated sum. She
says her husband is worth $500, 900, and
has an income Of $4,000 a year.
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-02-09
LINCOLNSHIRE ONCE SA WE'D BY
FRIEND WHEN KISSING BOMB
WAS FOUND ON SEATLN TRAIN
Widow of Ohio Man, Who Saved President from Death
Tells After Years of Silence Story Which the Pub
3 Lie Has Never Heard Before.

to Ecuador. where he died of yellow
fever
Mrs. Coggeshall says:
"A change Of cars had to be made at
Baltimore. The special car dashed into
the depot and preparations for an immed-
late change for the Washington car were
made. Mr.. Lincoln and my husband were
the last to leave the coach. Mr.. Lincoln,
who was leading, turned just as they
reached the door and saw a kissing bomb
in the seat he was passing. Mr.. Coggeshall
turned and saw what menaced them.
HE gave Lincoln a shove that sent
him out onto the platform, grabbed the
bomb and hurled it out of the window
opposite to where the crowd was gather
ed and then hurried to the waiting train.
When they had become composed Lincoln
exclaimed: 'Coggeshall, did I not tell you
that If you came with me should come
safely? God knows best
For a moment my husband could not
talk. Then she said: Mr.. President, let
this pass no further. Let us not give 1t
to the world to be criticised
who put the bomb in the car was
never learned"
Atlanta semi-weekly journal. (Atlanta, Ga.) 1898-1920, 1909-02-09
WORLD TO DISCUSS
TEMPERANCE PLANS
Congressman Sheppard, of Texas In
PRODUCES Bill Providing for Con-
ference
CBy Associated Press.)

WASHINGTON. Feb. "a world tenn
perance conference, to be held within a
year, and possibly in Washington, is pro-
vided for in a bill introduced by Repre-
sentative Sheppard, of Texas. The meas
ure directs the president to invite the
various nations now represented at The
Hague peace conference to send not few
er than twelve delegates to the proposed
conference, tn purpose Of which would
be to devise and recommend methods by
which these nations could cooperate with
a view to lessening of and regulating the
international traffic in intoxicating
liquors, narcotics and harmful drugs.
The president is empowered to name one
hundred delegates to represent the United
States.