The Bridgeport evening farmer., 1909-09-03

gores of the skirt on the opposite G~ smaller side into the girdle. If doing this makes the width of this side around the hip from front to back too great, take out the excess at the seam joining the two side gores; do not, if 1t can front panel joins the first side gore.
 After fitting, remove the skirt and linine;, haste any necessary alterations, then stitch and press the seams. Stitch the girdle at both upper and lower edges and along the sides of the front panel. The stitching should be about one-eight,s of an inch back from the fold-edge to make the overlapping edges we'll defined. Fit the lining into the girdle, together if that seems advisable.
 Turn under seam at both upper and lower edges of the lining. Catch-stitch or hem the lower edge, leaving it free from the cloth; hem the upper edge by hand to the turned-over edge of the cloth girdle. The boning is placed toward the inside of the lining in order that its impression may not show through the girdle, no matter how light weight the goods of the skirt may be. Buttoned Skirt
 Another model is shown with sinu- | the center-front, the Tapping edge of the closing being cut into what may be called squared scallops. Not everyone will want to undertake this work, though 1t undoubtedly adds to the good effect of garments. After the correct ! front length of the skirt is determined a line of tracing threads represents the center-front of the skirt; the over | tapping edge in any case must be faced back a seam past this center-front line. Baste this facing to the outside of Lay the scaliop pattern on the gore even with the front edge, the side of the scallop-piece three-eighths of an inch below the waist edge at the center-front. Mark with chalk, then baste and after ward stitch a seam three-eighths of an, inch inside the edge and the diagonal chalked line, carrying 1t to meet the straight chalk line that divides the blocks or scallops.
 each of the V shapes, turn the facing piece over, being careful to make good corner turns, haste around the fold-edge and stitch. Several rows of stitching may be made or one or more rows of soutache may be sewed a space from the edge, carrying the braid to the cen ter-line. @ Simpler Method
 A much simpler method, by which practically the same result may be reached, is to face the overlapping piece, leaving the edge straight. Mark on the right side with chalk, as described, and use this chalk line as guide for braiding. Several rows of soutache with spaces between, the width of the braid, will have good trimming effect. The simulated buttonho1e in each scallop is also made of the braid, or if stitching and not braid is used, make this of narrow fold of the cloth.
 Face the left-hand front portion with a piece of lining material and join it to the right-hand portion by laying its edge even with the center-fronti trac- ing on that portion. A button sewed at the center of each scallop through both skirt portions secures them togeth- er Buttons for this purpose should be the same color as the skirt material or of its predominating color If mixed or checked goods is used.
 Buttons
 In fact, many of the high-class tailors have the buttons made in their werk- rooms, covering wooden button-moids (tf1at may be bought for a few cents per dozen) with scraps of the material which have been embroidered.