Evening journal., 1909-03-31

EAE makers here in New York
have decreed that there shall
be no radical changes in the
modish silhouette this spring. Such
information win doubtless come as a
welcome relief to many women, who
just now are wondering how they viii
make their spring and summer frocks.
You may. my dear madam, have
short waist line on your Easter gown
and still be in the fashionable swim,
or the line at the waist may be where
nature designed it 10 appear Your
skirt may be OF the clinging. draped
variety, or It may be a straight. close
jupe. And. as for the length of the
skirt. you may include in your ward
robe short trotteur lengths and skirts
with serpent trains.
Although much liberty Of taste IS al
lowed I'm the present STYLES. there are
certain points upon which Nine. Ia
Mode insists. Bouffancys IS cut or
from the list OF things as they ought
10 be-" And even where there is skirt
fullness Il must be- OF the Hmpest Kind
that in no way detracts from the fash
ionable straight line. The shoulder
and arm lines too. must be sharply
defined, and sleeves FOR the moment
are long, although the summer may
bring in the three-quarter manche. So
YOU easily see that In the new models
there are no radical divergcnces from
the rules modistes have been following
during the past season. There are.
however. plenty OF new fashion ideas.
but they concern themselves with
matters Of color. material and detail
rather than line.
The one piece gown with coat to
match is unquestionably the smart
walking costume OF tho spring This
costume Is developed in silk. pom
gee. rajah or lightweight woolen ma
teriai. with a silk coat 20 match. The
cloths selected for this suit are usually
n chiffon broadcloth henrietta, satin
cloth or serge. To obviate the warmth
Of the woolen frock net, chiffon or
other sheer stuffs arc employed for the
sleeves and the greater part OF the
bodice. There are many women.
though. who object to the one piece
and coat suit on the ground that dust
and perspiration are apt to play havoc
with a,costume that is worn practically
every day. The alternative is to be
found in the customary coat and skirt
suit that IS worn with a lingerie
NOIdIltt
that comfortable separate blouses of all
kinds win be worn this season, but IL
one wants 70 be ultra smart the chic
street suit viii be the one piece model
with coat en- suite. And IL you are
wavering i'm your choice one Of the
above mentioned suits in tussah or
shantung win not only be a safe but a
smart choice
The sleeveless coat Is a warm wealth
or concession. but TO my mind there Is
nothing practical about this model. for
when a coat is a necessity tho arm
needs protection. In heavy lace or lin
en-. either braided or embroidered. the
sleeveless coat worn over a dainty
summer gown IS charming. This coat
IS frequently open all the way down
the front OF fastens only at the
bust. The suit coats for the most part
are long and semihtting. with a
straight effect around the hottom.
There is, happily. little Of the dog ear
ed cut about the skirt of the spring
coat Rows and rows of meaningless
buttons used as a trimming. too, have
disappeared. Their place is usurped
by two or three really handsome but
tons that give an air of distinction to
the garment on which they appear.
Braid is seen on coats in ornamental
designs. The two back seams perhaps
viii carry a u shaped pattern down
their entire length, or the collar and
cuffs are worked prettily with SOU
tache.
Now. to talk OF Iaterlals, the old time
favorite, pongee. is again to the fore in
many new and attractive weaves. This
old new silk comes this season as fine.
supple and lustrous as the handsomest
Grape or in a weave as well adapted to
tailoring as the sturdy taffetas. Among
tho pongees there are the rough serv-
iceable mirage. the satin finished Sa-
lone. the exquisite hand loom effects
Indra and Arab-and the waterproof
N1otora and Tuscan varieties. There's
literally no end to the offerings in
pongee, and the colorings embrace all
the modish shades from dark to light
l almost neglected to mention in the
pongee list a corded or, as IL is called
"cotteIe" effect that promises to be
one Of the fads in silk and a tussah
royal which Is something like mohair
The manufacturers have brought out
delightful selections in foulards both
in designs carrying dainty figures and
In bordered patterns. The latter are
the despair OF the ordinary dressmaher
80 bnrdered materials are so difficult