Omaha daily bee., 1909-09-19

~APLEs. - what Is there tina,
All makes Italy such a land of
charms to the traveler7 The
~ landscapes do not, as a rule,
9td8f offer anything extraordinary
- Comparatively speaking, Italy ls
la'hef a treeless country. True, there are
earoens OF luxurious growth, and there
'o"e patches Of woods that feast the
eye. All in all, though. the scenery can
nor De said to be emlnently beautiful. vet.
VINO does not love Italy? I thcdRbt Of
this again and again as I rode across tho
corn pralries of Miltano. a fair conv n,
Illinois, and over tn eswamp and slough
lahds from Rome TO Naples. Here and
there certn scenes OF marvellous glory
Dreak In on the vision and delight Won
en1lrely aside from the peculiar loneliness
that historical memories and art give 10
even the commonplace In Italy. land Of
charms. OF all these Naples stands pre-
eminent.
For panoramic beauty Of location, ro-
mantle customs CT the people, absence OF
even rudimentary ideas OF cleanliness. and
coral jewelry, the city of the Neapolitan
nay surpasses all other Italian cities. II
IS IN fact' sort Of a namphitheater by the
Dlue Nlediterranean Then you look a
VI ooANAAlhf NTedCneTOuS NeauHViuH
standing there threatening the peace and
Joy Of this region Of peace and scenic
splendor. Right opposite II at the other
END OF the semi-circle, the indescribably
lovely hill and convent of San Marine
bring back present happiness and ease Of
mind, as a lovely scene always can.
It's a unique experience to drive right
into the namelessly filthy quarters Of the
old city, I'm the shop and business districts
on the slopes. How a people that live such
q life Of squalor can be the artistic, soul
full race that the Neoploitans are cannot
be explained in one book or a dozen. II
you are a wise traveller you ~avoid-and that
is not pharlsaism Understanding this
populous mass OF Naples, II you wish
peace Of mind and body, for they supass
Sall ones former notions of Neapolitan
neglect. But when the soft, cool evening
comes and little groups of street singers
appear on the fashionable seashore boulc-
ward, you could stand till dawn and lis
ten to the strange songs of Naples, those
medleys Of sorrow and mirth peculiar to
this region. But you always avoid coming
too near the singers.
At the same time it must be remembered
tidl even III naples lleTe are spots where
culture and cleanliness unite. People Of
refinement seem to be plentiful in this
prosperous Italian seaport. l was very
much amused at the notions of our Amer
lea cherished by an educated and success
ful Italian lawyer, whom 1 met on one
occasion. To be told that the United States
Is a country 1000 years behind time, and
a blgoted land (our treatment of Maxim
Gorky cited in proof certainly tests ones
patriotism. The gentleman appeared to
be at a loss to comprehend that the United
States could compare with Italy in mat
ters of, for instance, religious liberty. 1
tried to explain that conscience freedom
was a true American ideal. but my recital
OF arguments was ceaselessly interrupted
by viewpoints that to an American lacked
all force, though they certainly Astounded
one. A very great advantage OF travel is
the chance Of having all your former