davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18

is machine-made, and there are several
hand-stitches that may be used for this
purpose that will be in greater harmony
with / hand-Worked waist. The SIM
plest of these connecting stitches is the
well-known herringbone or fagoting
stitch. When used in the manner sug
gested it will better occupy the space if
two rows are worked, in precisely the
same manner, the stitches of the second
row being taken into the material at
the right-hand side of those of the first
row. This stitch is worked from left TO
right. Both sections of the material
should be basted to rather stiff paper,
keeping the space between an even
width.
There is another variation of the
fagoting stitch. The first row is worked
IN the usual manner and from left to
right When it is completed, the work
IS held so the open space forms a YER
teal line, running toward the worker,
and two buttonhOle stitches are taken
on the two threads at each loop of the
fagoting Stitch.
A New RuttonhOIs Stitch
The buttonhole stitches seen illus
trated show a rather more unusual
method of joining a seam. It is neces-
~ NhAtA tti( WOAhy HAVING hAeh NV
edge, then the other, toward the worker
as each group of stitches is made. The
heavy knot at the edge Of each stitch
is made by passing the thread that
hangs from the eye of the needle after
1t is inserted in the cloth, under the
point 80 the opposite direction from that
IN which the thread comes from the last
stitch. In the illustration the end of
thread that comes from the eye is passed
under the point from right to left.
When the work is turned to work the
group of stitches on the other edge, the
thread from the last stitch will come
from the right, so the end from the
eye should be passed under the point
from left to right This will be found
an effective stitch that may have a
variety of uses and may be worked IN
threads of various weights.
Worked on tan linen with heavy white
lustre thread, it will have an excellent
effect, and may be used IN place of other
insertion in the waist -.
For infants slips and everyday
dresses, particularly, these fancy stitches,
as they are called, are well adapted
Elaborate trimmings of lace and en-
broidery are out OF place on these little
garments, but as one does not want
them all absolutely plain, the fancy
stitches provide ornamentation that is
suitably unobtrusiYe and quite IN keep
ing with the dainty character of the
little dresses.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18
STITCHES USED m TREATING TIE SUMNER Gown

of threads together, and the fine cotton
is bound around them-hence the name
fagot-stitch, as it recalled to the mind
of the worker the tying together of
bundles of fagots.
To preaRre for insetting the lace in
this manner, haste it through the centre,
to the lawn and paper, as in the pre-
vious method; mark on the lawn with
a pencil, very lightly, where the edge of
the lace comes Cut the lawn under
the lace and turn it back so its fold
edge is even with the edge of the lace,
but with no space between. Tie a
short end of thread into the eye of the
needle. AS the thread is very fine it
IS better not to use long end that will
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18
The Eyes as an Aid to Beauty
METHODS OF DEVELOPING AND CARING FOR THE
FINAL POINT OF ATTRACTIVENESS IN
A WOMANS FACE

eyes. Avoid eye strain. from too long
use in bad light. Avoid the strain that
comes from wearing heavily dotted
wells, or those with intricate meshes,
which try the eyes and destroy their
looks more than women realize.
1t strengthens the eyes very much to
battle them either in very hot water or
in very cold. Better yet is to take
pieces of absorbent cotton rounded and
made into little pads to fit the eyes, dip
them in ice water and place them on the
lids, changing them as they become hot
After a few minutes of such treatment
the eyes will feel comforted and relieved
to great degree
This is especially grateful to the eyes
after riding in the wind or after having
been subjected to the dust and cinders
of 4 railway or the glare of bright re-
Elections on the water when on a boat.
Those who have a tendency to weak
eyes should daily use an eye-cup, IN
which is placed some water slightly
sailed, or a boracic acid solution The
saturated solution diluted one-half is
generally the best, and should be made
fresh for each eye. The eye should be
opened and shut in the solution a half a
dozen times or more, so that it will
thoroughly battle the eyeball as we'll as
the lids.
Caring for the Eyebrows
The eyelashes and eyebrows next
come up for consideration. The eye
lashes are bound to be scanty and stray
Cling and uneven If the lids are in
famed. This is the primary cause of
most of the poor growth of lashes
Examine the eyelids, and If they are red
and infiamed take the measures to re-
lieve this inflammation.
Many times one or two hairs will
grow in toward the eyeball; these will
cause great irritation and should be re-
moved by means of pincers. Clip the
ends of the lasl1es with fine curved scis-
sors. 1t is difficult to do this for ones
self, and il must be very carefully done.
not to cut them too much. Vaseline is
excellent to promote the growth of the
lashes and the eyebrows.
One cannot do much to promote the
curve of the lashes, which is
the desirable way to have them grow,
but with the fingers one can shape the
eyebrows. If the hairs grow out of the
proper line or become coarse and long,
they can be removed with tweezers.
The hair of the eyebrows retains the
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18

two stitches from one point to the other,
IN order to bind the little bundles of
threads of the lawn together. Now
pass the needle diagonally from to 4
plete the group with two stitches from
the needle under from 8 to 8, work two
stitches from 4 to 6, then two from {
to 6, continuing in this manner in
definitely. A very little practice will
make the method quite mechanical.
Beading Irsets
Most of the French waists are put
together with fine Hamburg beading in
set IN the seams; the beading. however,
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18

be likely to break, and it must be tied
IN the needles eye to avoid continual
unthreading. The illustrations show the
method of using this stitch.
The stitches are worked in groups of
four and across the dividing line be-
tween the lace and the lawn, two into
the lace and two into the lawn about
one-eighth of an inch is taken up by the
needle for each stitch. Make the first
stitch from to 5, tie the thread on the
under side, and make another stitch
through the same holes made by the
large needle. 1t is necessary to take
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18

color long after the hair of the head has
turned gray. Light and gray eyebrows
detract from the appearance, and not
only is it justifable to darken them, but
it is an easy process, as II can be done
with pomade pencils which come for the
purpose. 1t is the only application Of
color that is in any wav an Improvement
to the face. Some pencil Under the
lower lid, thinking that it improves the
looks. They are much deceived. for it
gives a very artificial appearance to the
face, the same as painting the cheeks cg
changing the color of the hair,
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18

of the eyes, like that of the hair, is
made 20 match the complexion, and
every one should believe the f1nda-
mental fact that the color of the eyes
which he or she has is just the right
thing.
However, the effect of the color of the
eyes can be greatly enhanced by the
color of the dress or accessories worn
around the face. Experiment with silks
Brown eyes are helped by shades of
brown and yellow; blue eyes with GER
tain shades of blue; but one must bear
in mind that it is not every shade of
the blue or the brown that helps &C
ccntuste the color of the eyes, for some
will desden their color and take all
brightness and expression from them.
Mstshing the Coier Of the Eye
This is especially the case with blue
eyes. Those who make a study of ap-
pearsnce should never forget to put
near the face, so that the eyes will re-
feet it, just that shade of coloriHg which
will bring out that of the eyes
The whites of the eyes should be of
clear blue whiteness, and the blood
vessels should not show. When they
do, Il means an Inflammation of the
delicate cobweb tissue which covers the
whites Of the eyes and lines the lids
When the eyes are strained by over
work, or the use of wrong glasses, this
membrane becomes inhamed. and its
tiny vessels enlarge. If the infamma-
ton occurs often or continues for a
long time, it is difficult to ever restore
them again to = condition where they
VIII not show.
BstAs tAs Eyes FresusEtIy
Those who have a tendency to this
should find out the cause,
so as to correct it in order to have fine
looking eyes, and what is more, useful
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18
BstAs fAs Eyes Frezuszsiy

Those who have a tendency to this
Inflammation should find out the cause
so as to correct it in order to have fine
looking eyes, and what Is more. useful
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18
The Latest Models In
dicate the Advent of
Smaller Hats

THE day of the Merry Widow" Is
u done, and the woman who adorned
herself to the extinction of comfort and
convenience with three-foot wide hat
can sigh with relief. Dame Fashion
exacts no longer suffering from her
devotees. The day Of the big hat is
done.
OF course, the new models, many of
them, examples of which are shown on
this page, do not show any violent break
from the last years prevailing styles,
but the tendency towards modification
of the extremes of style in which we
INDUCED Tiotously is plain. Hats, even
big hats, are much smaller, and many
really small hats are shown.
Snail Hats Next Winter
Very small hats, to be sure, are still
only on the distant horizon, but close
observers prophesy that within q season
we shall see once more the vogue of the
small hat One of the most recently
imported hats was extremely small, a
toque as matter of fact, fairly covered
with lace and flower trimming com
bined. The trimming was so arranged
that the spectator was deceived In re-
spect to size, and only on close exami-
nation could one observe what distinct
Of course, some such change was to
be expected. We have been running TO
large hats for several seasons and I, for
one, must confess am tired of them.
They were extremely difficult to wear.
A small woman always looked like a
Christmas tree candle with a full-grown
snuffer atop, and unless a tail woman
carried herself we'll she was more than
apt to resemble windmill. Then. too,
IL ones face were plump or thin, the
chances were that the average big hat
acted like q microscope On ones facial
deficiencies and brought out everything
that one wanted left In shadow.
Classic Styles 1sspsnsfBis
That fact, however, could never in
duce US to be OF of style. While big
hats were the thing, we wore them, and
il we look back it seems to me that we
clung to them all the more firmly be-
cause we were not convinced Of their
suitability. The modification in the
style of gowns induced the change of
hats.
The simplicity of line of the prevail
ing modes in gowns made the continued
existence of the big hat ridiculous. 1t
was in itself an expression of extreme
ornamentation, entirely out of spirit
with the classic lines of the spring and
summer models.
The hats shown illustrate the wide
variety of styles and treatment favored
this } ear.
Variety IN Trimming
Lawn and lace seem TO be in great
favor with the Paris milliners. but
straws in all varieties of weave and
color are shown with equal favor
The rather small, round brim hat
shown is an especially simple and be-
coming model, The crown is straw and |
the brim of wire covered with lace with |
an inch-wide edge of satin.
The little low poke shown is another |
very charming model. It is really an |
adaptation of the cap the peasant women
of Normandy wear, and the style has /
been given the name Normandy. The
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18

the head The fi11et crosses the front
of the head, rather like a coronet braid,
and ends with a large ribbon rose at
each side.
In more nearly pure Grecian ar
rangement the hair is slightly waved
and built out at the back in closely
placed puffs. Satin ribbon, about an
inch and One-quarter wide, is woven in
and out the hair, and a trick of the hair
dresSers to facilitate this is TO wind a
piece of wire Ga fine wire i1airpin viii
do around one end of the ribbon,
making it possible TO thread it in and
out after the hair Is dressed, without
fear of disarranging it.
With the French people-past-master
of detail-nillinery and hairdressing
are most closely connected, and each
must have fairly good knowledge Of
the others art.
The coronet Arrangement
The cOTonet arrangement, with the
ends of the hair curled, is valuable
suggestion, whether che has little or
MITCH hair. The least wisps of hair may
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18
Embroidering Spring and Summer Dresses.
SIMPLE METHODS OF EMBELLIsHING
SEASONABLE GOWNS

and rather fine, that the threads may be
needle, No. o or No. /, is used with
very fine cotton, about No. 200. The
large needle pushes the little punches
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18

OF all the fea-
~ lures of the
face the eyes re-
ceive the least care,
probably because it
IS believed that little
can be done to inn
prove their appear
ance. This is a
great mistake. An
otherwise ugly or
plain face can be
redeemed by the
ewes The coioriuo
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18

Or arranging copies of those seen on
perhaps quite expensive waists.
The usual method of applying lace IS
TO lay it on the face of the material,
pin il into the desired position or design,
then haste at each edge and stitch to the
lawn at the baSting line. The lawn is
then cut away under the lace, leaving
enough edge at each side to turn back.
when II may be rolled and overhanded
like a rolled hem, or turned back Fat
and secured by a second row OF
stitching
Insstting Lass
This is the simplest, though not the
most artistic way, to apply the lace
another method is TO inset il with the
ordinary heTringbone or fagoting stitch,
worked, of course, By hand. Basic the
entire piece of lawn m which the lace
is to be inset to rather heavy wrapping
paper, and basic the lace, IN the desired
design, through both the lawn and
paper. The lawn is then cut on a line
even with each edge of the lace inser-
ton, turned under and bastcd; this
leaves q space between the lace and
lawn, across which the herringbone
stitch is worked to hold the two to-
gether. Embroidery cotton IS best for
this purpose.
Many of the better class of ready
made waists show the lace inset with
hemstitclling, but On these it IS machine
work, and there IS no attachment for the
ordinary household machine by which
It may be done.
Ssrmz6s FAssting
There Is a kind of han6worlS, called
sometimes Bermuda fagoting or drawn
work, that may be used for this and
many other ornamental purposes. 1t
closely initiates drawnwork, though no
threads are actually drawn. The mate
rial IN which it is made must be sheer
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18

- HE strictly sum
mer gown, OF
lawn or other trans
parent material, that
is not inset with
lace is the exception
rather than the rule,
and as the method
of application is
simple, there is no
reason why one
may not follow
ones own fancy in
originating dcsi1nS.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18
TO KEEP wAYsrs NEAT

My husband gives me the boxes that
his shirts come in and label each one.
placing in my couch boxes. Waists and
dresses are nicely kept in this way with
out crushing.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18

mode is very becoming to both small
and large faces, but its nature restricts
1t to more or less festive occasions.
This particular model is created out
of very fine lawn inset with lace The
trimming is combination of lace and
flowers with loops of ribbon. 1t is one
of the most charming models shown,
and no woman could fail to look coouet-
fish in it.
The neck ruching shown with it is
particularly beautiful example of some
of the work the best French shops are
turning out. The ruche -is composed of
roSettes of dark satin ribbon with CEN
trail rosettes of rose-colored ribbon.
The two central hats in the upper
row of the illustration are some of the
new shapes in straw. The nearer one
is of coarse braided straw with very sim
pie trimming. This model, by the way,
is shown with severely plain tailored
gown. The other straw is of chip
quality with a rather wide, upturned
brim, particularly becoming to almost
any type of face The crown is made
with satin ribbon overlaid with net, and
the chief ornament is somewhat broad
buckle.
Dressing the Hair
The classic trend in costume must
naturally be accompanied by the same
suggestions throughout the toilet Hair
dressing shows the change most de-
cidedly. The hair is dressed low, in
some instances in the severe Psyche
knot, with which some of us were ia
niliar probably twenty years ago. Clas-
sic simplicity applied to the arrangement
OF the hair, however, requires classic
outline of features; so notifications
must be arranged to suit irregular fea-
lures.
Small puHs and separate braids make
the becoming arrangement of the hair
a much easier matter than If all ones
own hair is used. Except for the graft |
hcation of a personal pride, long and |
thick hair IS more burdensome than |
necessary. The appropriate hair orna- |
ments are variations on the Grecian |
hllet or Suggestions from that source |
These are readily made on foundation |
of ribbon wire, covered with satin or
ribbon. The hair is parted and slightly /
waved on each side, then drawn loosely |
to the back, where it is arranged in two
Oraids that are pinned rather close to !
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18
Stimulating the Eyebrows

To stimulate the growth of the eye
brows, a lotion made of FIVE parts of
camphor and FIVE parts of tinctuTe of
would be useful to alternate with the
vaseline applications.
Several correspondents have written
me about the dark circles which trouble
them under their eyes. Generally, these
circles occur as the result of over
fatigue. They are more often seen N
brunettcs, whose small blood-vessels
which surround the eye must be nearer
the surface. / would advise those sub
Jet to the dark circles to avoid over
fatigue. Many are afflicted with pun
ness under the eyes. This is often due
to inflammation of the lower lid. and
pufiness will be greatly benefited b
treating the eyes for Irritation.
Nassaging the Eyes
Massage will help give tone to the
skin. Lightly smooth the skin, while
exerting gentle pressure with the fore
finger and middle finger OF each hand
applied TO the corresponding eye. Alse
rub with a circular motion the wrinkles
and crow's-feet that come at the corners
of the eyes. A few of these movements
when washing the face night and morn
ing will greatly help to preserve the eyes
and to eliminate the wrinkles.
It is a great trial to have to wear eye
glasses, but one should not regard them
as such, but should be thankful for the
perfection TO which these aids to the
sight have been carried in our day.
Women make mistake In trying TO put
off the time when, owing TO their years,
they have TO wear them. Il is very hard
on the eyes 70 go without glasses whea
they are needed.
The best beautifer of the eyes IS .
happy, optimistic nature. Il gives
brightness and light which nothing else
can supply.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1909-06-18

be prettily ana naturally arranged in
the coronet way The hair is parted in
the centre and combcd loosely toward
the back, lifting it little from the neck
toward the crown of the head 1t is
loosely tied, then divided, and the ends
Los Angeles herald., 1909-08-15

time :22 fiat. Second heat: w. Mar
tin, Seattle A. c., won; l. Courtney.
Seattle A. c., second; time :22 1-5. FL
nal: w. F. Dawbarn, New York A. G,
won; w. Martin Seattle A. c., second
p. c. Gerhardt. Olympic club, San
Francisco, third; time 20 1-5.
Throwing 56-pound weight. }. Tai
bott, Kansas City A. c.. won; Ralph
Rose, Olympic club, San Francisco
second; ]. S. Mitchell, New York A. c.,
third; distance 33 feet 6,4 inches.
Running broad jump. Irons, Chi
cago A. A, won; B. Gish, Seattle a.
c., second; F. Brokenaw, Seattle A. C.,
third; distance % feet inches.
220-yard low hurdles-Joe Malcomson,
Seattle A. c., won; F. Waller, Chi
cago A. A., second; A. B. Shaw, Chi
cago A. A., third; time rs fiat.
Running hop, step and jump-F.
Irons Chicago A. A, won; B. Gish.
Seattle A. c., second; ]. Nicholson,
Missouri A. c., third; distance A feet
9 inches.
Discuss throw-Ra1ph Rose Olympic
club, San Francisco, won; J. Homer,
Chicago A. A., second; L. ]. Talbot,
Kansas City A. c., third; distance 131
feet inches.
Five-mile run-Harry Mclean, unat-
tached, won; f. G. Bellans, New York
A. c., second; F. Jackson, Seattle A.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-08-15
BOSTON STORE TEAM
STILL LEADS LEAGUE
Defeat Broadways in Rcd-Hot Seven
Inning Game, Making Six Straight
Observation-Disclosures Lose
to BIackstones
STANDING OF THE TEAMS

In a red-hot contest which was wit
messed by a large crowd of enthusias-
tic fans who hesitated not in voicing
their approval of the work Of their IA
vorite, the Boston store team yes
terday retained its lead in the Depart
ment Store league race, winning it's
sixth straight game without a defeat,
by nosing out from the Broadway de-
partment team by the score of 4 to 3.
1t was a fast game all the way and
was anybody's up to the final delivery.
A steal home by Fish in the fifth in
ming gave the Boston their winning
score. The contest was called at the
end of the seventh inning. 1t was
featured by the fielding Of Schmidt and
the hitting of Riley and Venable, both
of whom secured a triple, H. Bresino
secured a double. Both pitchers La
vine for the Broadway and Hirst
for the Bostons, were steady the lat
ter having slightly the better of 1t.
In the second game of the league
play. the Blackstones won from the
Bullocks team by a score of to 2. The
batteries were Daley and Hobgood for
the winning team and Hartman and
Root for the Bullocks. 1t was a we'll
played game but the Blackstones had
all the better Of it in fielding and
hitting.
The batting percentage of the mem
bers of the Boston store team, the
league leaders, is as follows: Fish,
sos: Lamp. .52S: H. Bresino, .47O; Marr,
400 Wilson, .308; Scott 1885, Hirst,
$50 c. Bresino, 212 Sargent. .2o5;
Graves. 1893. Following is the tabu-
lated score of the game between the
Bostons and the Broadway teams;
Los Angeles herald., 1909-08-15

The third player of this all-star trio
is Manager Hoke, under whose skill
full guidance the nine has won game
after game until at the present time
they stand at the head of the percent
age column with a clean average of
1000 per cent. Hoke has been playing
baseball for seventeen years, first COM
ing into prominence when he starred
with the Tufts-Lyon aggregation when
this team won championship in Ameri-
can baseball of California for players
under is years of age. The boys will
make a strong fight to wrest the laur-
els from the San Felice nine this aft
ernoon. The contest will be the acme
of baseball, which the Interurban
league is capable of producing and
should be productive of some clean,
high class sport.