The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1909-05-16

person being the awful child that aids
her father and mother in conducting the
establishment. 1t Is she who comes to
the door and challenges the right OF the
guest TO enter. for no strangers are ad-
mitted here. 1t is she who runs yelling
along the hall to the kitchen to let her
parents know that there are new arrivals,
and 1t 10 she who soreams to the. guest
whether or not there Ia a table for him.
The little front room holds only seven
tables, while it's simple Above at the back
has room for only four, 80 late guests
as no food. for the cook has other accom-;
plishments than ability in the material
preparation Of food. The highest proof
Of this is a diploma from'the Conservatory
of Bologna affirming that he was gradu-
ated there with honors az a cellist. :.
He plays in theatre orchestras as wei
as prepares dinner. and woe to the late
guest when father has a job. II will be
the task Of the Bambina Orribla to tell
him there is no dinner left, which she does
with an JUNCTION that M hungry man can
note without realizing how appropriately
named she i.
Arriving at z. the worst that the
daughter Of the house a do is to refuse
to admit the new arrival until he has ex.
planned his right to enter. He will find
the patronage somewhat more elevated
in character than that Of the little place
further down town. There Is about the
difference that exists in the price OF IN
more class will be found in the home OF the
Bambina Orribls's parents.
CHANGING about the little place further
downtown one will see the few OF the
Bohemian set that gather there. for the
good food and the cheap prices. Other
inspire an effort to rack the memory
as to which OF them 1t was that gave
him the last facial massage or cut his
hair or told him that his barber was
shaving him too close.
There is no such train OF thought s,ig-
gested in the uptown restaurant which
serves its dinner with the same freedom
from ceremony. Here as in all the
Italian restaurs nts. 1t Is the veal which
is best although some Of the vegetab BILE
compounds turned out by this musical
chef are uncommon and tasteful to the
stranger. Then there are the delicious
fresh butter. the good bread, the soup
make up a ministrone. the green crisp
salads and delicious fresh cheese.
Here are artists. musicians. black
eyed Young men of business who come
here for lunch or dinner and are always
delighted at the opportunity. to meet
houses that can tell them something
about Toscanini or Z~enatello or bring
them into touch with the n,ws OF the
people that interest every l~talian-the
singers. Perhaps there is greater care
in the cooking, out who would change
the melting richness OF the tomato
meat sauce that Mario dips Erudglngly
out Of the hot saucepan for anything?
Bohemians who have abandoned the
efforts of the Italian cooks for the de-
lights OF the French kitchen bourgeois.
must make a deep dip TO get what they
want: else their derby hats will get a
bad dent in front. No peachbasket
Here ia still greater ceremony. There
il nothing Bohemian in the aspect OF
this resort. The absence Of h rubber
plant d~iherentiates 1t from the ordinary
basement dining room. The only touch
Of really Gallo spirit comes from the three
large champagne advertisements that
hang framed on the walls.
One scanning their literature CLOSELY
sees that they all represent the same
house and are for three different wears.
n YOU know Madame-most OF the patrons
jump so hard with both feet on the last
svll BILE that it sounds p~rofane- well
enough she will tell you that her husband
was ut one time the representative Of that
brand of wine. In raalitT all that he did
was to try to get IL sold whenever possible.
which was casually mentioned by some
persons a. a contributing cause IN the
catastrophe which put Madame into black.
She bears 1t. however, with the resource
fulness of her race.
Even a Monday dinner at Madame's
is good. One turns on Sixth avenue.
drors down the three steps into thanarrow
ward, rims. the bell ard then slides through
the iron gateway which Is 50 marrow that
the French waitress f!attens herself
against the stoop to let the diner pass
Into the doorway come the odors OF that
cot nu fev that Madame makes sc well
or at all events oversees in the Kitchen.
Then one knows that fried sole-what II
its American name Is hounder-comes
it. and Drowned without. while keeping
white and juicy inside.
Navarin aux pommes de terre might
be called a species of hash by the gas
Economically indiscriminatinR. but that
does not in the least prevent the lamb
from being sweet and tender, and the
! Young carrots mixed with the potatoes
are a symphony to look at as they con-
trast in color with the white potatoes.
Can one eat n more after this success
OF the prizes OF the burgher kitchen OF
France? II one car there is boiled beef.
served with a sauce that looks like the
mornings cream but 10 hot and spicy
with the grated h~orseradish. Then there
is salad and maybe on your night 1t will
be dandelion with the long, dry, green
caves cut of at the ends. the white.
pearly roots skinned Of their coarse
outer covering and cut into two pieces.
over the salad is the yellow gold from the
inside OF the hard boiled egg that was
cut over the creamed spinach and, scent
ing il like the odors OF Araby to the
initiated, is the chapon at the bottom.
There are cheese and fruit and coffee,
but only once a week what tho New
Workers call dessert. Madame as a loyal
country woman Of Brillat-Savarn de-
plores the American habit of eating
heavy desserts, so she gives them
cheese and fruit.
Only once a week does she humor
what she calls the American taste for
pie. Then there Is a cream pun. white,
airy and family redolent OF Jamaica
rum inside. smooth, black and covered
with chocolate on top. It Ia after the
night that Madame reluctantly has this
hat the guests do not mind In the least
how low they have to duck their heads
as they 70 out and hear an elevated train
suddenly come along with a roar h a
at once transfers them from the rue
dc Lille to Sixth q