davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11

IN NIFTY instead of plain naInsook or
II Ifne linen is just now extremely pop
ular for all kinds of underwear, and
for the girl who makes all or great
part of her own lingerie this is a fad we'll
worth knowing of, for dimity, having Il
pattern of its own, calls for far less trim
ming than a palmer fabric. Dimity OF
pretty check or stripe design requires
! little more adornment than a single edg'
/ ing of lace and perhaps some little tuck
ing, whereas all batiste undergarments
are profusely trimmed with hand en-
broidcry and countless insertions Of lace.
Both night dresses and chemises are
ridiculously simple to make, and if girl
will only keep herself supplied i'll these
two departments of her lingerie she will
have sufficient saved to buy what else she
may desire. The prettiest pattern for a
summer nightgown is square cut, low
neck with short kimono or cap sleeves,
the only trimming being a fiat baud of
beading sufficiently wide for onc-nch
ribbon about the neck and the same at
| the end of the sleeves. An edging OF
lace an inch or less in width and perhaps
few rows of tucks run below the bead
ing will make as attractive a nightdress
as could be desired. This gown slips on
over the head, the ribbons being tied in
front at each corner, so that there are
no troublesome buttonholes and button
slips to make.
1t is an excellent plan to buy one night
dress of an especially pretty design and
good fit as a sample from which to cut
the others. If, however, a girl does not
feel that she can eXpend so much as a
really pretty gown costs she can buy a
paper pattern which will answer all re-
auirements and is, in fact, easier to cut
from.
For chemise and corset cover as well
as right dress a square neck is now pre-
ferred to round or V shape. Not only
is the square more becoming, but over
this shape the waist will be found to fit
better and also give wider shoulder line.
| If a chemise is worn instead of a corset
cover it must not be longer than few
inches below the waist, else it will cause
the skirt of the dress to fit badly. A girl
cannot commence too young to see to it
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11

THE decalogue of good behavior EN-
braces a code which covers wide
field, but, though there is much to
learn about good manners, fortunately
when once one forms the habit of taking
pains about the little things as well as
the big it is astonishing how rapidly I'M
provemcut rewards our efforts
One of the little things to constantly
pear in mind is to refrain from calling
attention to Deficiencies, either your own
or those of your friends. Nothing EN-
barrasses more than being made aware
of our defects by others, and sometimes
consciousness of our own gets such a
hold on us that it makes Us appear most
awkward and i'll ut ease
One cannot attain perfect manners ex-
cept by most painstaking care, and so
when we say or do the wrong thing we
must not brood on if, but forget it as
quickly as possible and endeayor not TO
repeat the mistake. Often n little slip
in manners will pass uunoticed if atten-
ton is not called TO it-as, for instance,
addressing a person by the wrong name.
Some girls find it extremely difficult to
remember the names Of persons whom
they meet formally, the name apparently
making little if any impression on their
minds If it makes none they evade the
matter by avoiding using the person S
name.
Sometimes we will perfectly understand
the name of the person We are meeting.
but on addressing her will thoughtlessly
call her Mrs. Blank instead OF Mrs. Brown,
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11
Rir+hdav Dolls.

THE girl who wishes to remember the
birthday anniversary of some small
feminine relative or friend will find
n visit to the doll emporiums entertaining
and instructive. Instead of the conven-
tional baby features and garb, dolls now
have faces of varying ages and are
dressed accordingly.
There are replicas of the summer GIRL
golfng, tennis, yachting and motoring en-
thusiast, bride, widow, French maid
waitress and cook--all suitably gar6ed'
Japanese tea room attendants, Dutch
Eskimo and Indian children, with differ
ent types of faces and in native costume,
nd infant dolls, have countenances mod
elled from life by expert artists.
Everything that an American doll wears
is now to be purchased ready made.
There are fashionable frockss, gowns path
rohes. wraps. rubberized rain coats, Leg
horn, straw, chiffon and lace hats and
every imaginable accessory.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11

to the beginner who understands the art
of dancing than to the novice
GIRLS schools invariably include fenc-
ing among their list of exercises, and
the classes are always popular. In
the expensive schools high priced fencing
masters are employed and the girls are
taught to handle the foils with such skill
that they can parry and thrust with their
brothers. In the city there are few eX-
cellent clubs for the purpose of promoting
interest in this noble art tournaments
are frequently held, and exhibitions which
are a credit to the teachers and pupils are
given during the fencing season.
For a girl who has grown bit rusty
on fencing and needs only a few pointers
the following will be found useful, and
even the amateur who wants to learn the
art of fencing will find them of great
value:-First of all the fencer should
learn how to grasp the foil. This should
be held firmly so that n quick strain from
the adyersary's thrd,t will not loosen the
hold, yet it should not be gripped or the
hiIt clutched in the hand. Too firm a
hold will strain the wrist and forearm.
Let the hand lie flat on the convex part
Of the hilt, forefnger extended along the
foil and the other fingers curled about the
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11

backward always start with the reverse
foot, that is, with the left and follow with
the right.
F. ENCING terms are unintelligible to
the novice "Tierce" means when
the fencers have their foils crossed
with points upward and blades TO the
right of each other. When in the same
position with the sword points to the left
of each other the fencers are engaged in
'quarte," A lunge in "tierce' is thrust
ing to the right and high. in quartz
the same movement is made with the
swords to the left.
The regulation fencing costume is one
of the most picturesque of athletic at
tire. Short skirts are essential and some
times they are accordion pleated The
plain gored skirt is as practicable as any.
School girls often wear their gymnasium
suits, and when they practice in the open
air they don sweaters. The athletic field
or the lawn outside the gymnasium is an
excellent practice ground for the fencing
classes and instructors have found that
girls like the open air work far more than
they do foil practice indoors.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11

fencers fall gracefully at their sides, the
buttons on the fols just touching the
floor. They should strike it a little tow
ard the left of the right foot. At sig
nal both fencers step forward, raising
the right arm until it is on level with
the top of the head. blades extended. The
hands then drop to line with the chin
almost touching it and the blades con
tinuing upright. With a quick movement
they sweep downward and to the right
this being one of the most attractive and
graceful of the fencing movements.
With another quick movement the blade
is brought forward and the tip of the
foil grnsped in the left hand, both arms
raised over the head, and after a second
or two the left hand falls to the side
slowly and half bent, elbow down and the
hand on a line with rhe ear. 1t IS helc
come distance from the head, fingers point
/ NO inward. while the right hand falls int
nosition for ION guard and the sigma
for the struggle to begin is given.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11

I T is somewhat a pity that the lingerie
hats are no longer worn-they were SO
universally becoming, so attractive to
make ones self and withal so singularly
appropriate with the style of simple morn
ing dress for which they were designed.
However, no fashion can remain forever
in favor, and the straw hats with large
| Alsatian bows of lace bordered lawn that
are now so smart are certainly extremely
effective
| 1t is rather a fad among young girls this
year to be decidedly Sporty in appear
ance on the tennis court or golf links, and
! in fact. for whatever form of outdoor fun
or exercise they may pursue, the costumes
contrasting sharply with the charmingly
pretty and girlsh frocks and hats which
are donned in the afternoon. Soft
brimmed, comfortable Panama straws
are worn again for riding, tennis and al
forms of more or less strenuous exercise
but. unfortunately, only girl with curly
/ hair can look attractive in Panama, fol-
this hat requires to be worn far down or
the head in a way which hopelessly fat'
tens straight hair.
With the hair worn low on the neck or
in braid down the back wide brimmed
sailor is almost invariably becoming, and
this year both white and black sailors
are in vogue, the later being, perhaps,
the more fashionable. Mushroom sailors
are still in evidence, but fiat sailors are
lmore in demand than was the case last
| year.
White duck and piQue hats, severely
plain, with only lawn scarf ana DOW
knot or large rosette as ornamentauon
are delightfully cool and light. There is
no hat, in fact, which so well takes the
place of an embroidered linen or batiste
morning hat.
With simple gowns of linen or ging-
| ham altogether the prettiest hats TINS
year are those either of natural colored
| linen ornamented with an enormous bow
knot of plain or bright colored ribbon or
the wide brimmed chip straws trimmed
with large double bowknots of finest
| In or null bordered with Nalenciennes
or baby Irish edging.
! These new hats are. fortunately, no
more difficult for pirl to make and trim
herself than were the lingerie hats OF a
few summers back. First good straw
shape must be found, which, if too mush-
room in effect can be raised up on the
head by means of fiat bandeau or velvet
''halo" 1t is almost always possible at
this time of the year to find a good I'M
trimmed sailor shape in white, yellow,
black or any colored straw desired.
The large bowknot is then made of
finest French mousseline or perhaps a
sheer embroidered batiste, the lace edge
gathered in slightly to give a softer look.
Any girl can surely make pretty double
loop or Alsatian bowknot, this being
placed Just in the centre of the hat, with
one end of the knot left sufficiently long to
encircle the crown.
This model can be carried out in any
color or combination of colors that may be
desired and it is not a bad plan TO have
for one hat several different bowknots OF
various shades to change according to the
gown with which the hat is worn.
Linen and pique wide brimmed fiat
hats are not so very difficult to do and
are certainly worth attempting, so smart
are they this season.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11
NEW DUTCH COLLARS AND PINS.

blind patterns in white, green, blue or
dark red. With these collars are woven
long Ascots of linen with art design EN-
broidered ends done in all white or with
colors
To accompany the stiff turnover collars
of white or solid color linen are narrow
silk cravats having butterfly bows and
tassel finished looped ends and bows of
colored satin, with plated centre and
plating bordered edges.
Stiff Gibson collars which fasten at
the back of the neck are of starched
plain or embroidered white linen and are
worn without pin or tie. The Gibson
collars in lingerie materials are so soft
that, like the lace and net stocks, they
require some sort of support. The latest
supporter consists of Il thin celluloid
sheet with apertures at either end and
two hasp hooks near the centre. The
sheer material is merely pressed by the
finger tip into the apertures of the sup
porter and then engaged and locked on
the other side by the hasp.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11

There are any number of variations
possible in this style of hat-shirring
about the crown and brinr, cording, rows
of tucks, all add to the charm of the
model, but for a beginner the simple do
sign is unquestionably the best
A hat is undoubtedly the most impor-
tant part of costume, but an expensive
hat is not necessary, at any rate in the
summer, when girl has plenty of time
to turn out any number of fascinating
hats Even if she has not sufficient talent
to make for herself a large, dainty Alsa-
tian bow, she can then find a becoming
straw shape in white or yellow and have
made and wired a number of different
colored ribbon bowknots, which she can
change each time different colored frock
is donned
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11
A College Girls Touring Equip
rnent, a

Tnent.
IN anticipation of a trip of several
1 weeks duration through region where
FIRST class hostleries are conspicuously
absent. a college girl of practical mind
has provided herself with a number OF
small and easily packed conveniences.
Into a fat dressing case of pigskin
lined with morocco and fitted with tooth
and SOAP boxes she has found space for
manicure set, sanitary closed case CON
tanning a hair brush having a celluloid
plate under the bristles to insure easy
cleansing, a package of nOn-scented dry
shampoo powder for freeing the hair OF
oil and dust, a metal box holding tihy
powder puff, a securely fastened WOODEN
case for quarter ounce screw top potlles
of ammonia. peroxide and witch hazel and
a silk lined morocco heart-shaped aifalr
holding four sterling silver ribbon run
ners and thread reels A bevelled mirror
set into the back of four by eight men
black seal envelope purse when h0ius
stationery. a fountain pen and its hller
is protected by a feather weight fupoeT-
lied silk raincoat and hat and a dark
hooded kimOno which can be toldeu Ihlo
an infnitesimal amount of space.
In addition to the toilet conVenences
the travelling case accommodates a pint
coffee pot of dull copper with felloI
able inside percolator, nlckel teapot
which may be tilted to regulate the pehot ohar
age to the desired strength, poacher
which cooks six eggs and non-eXploslVe
alcohol cha6ng dish lamp which generates
its own gas
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11
THE first attitude assumed by the

T HE first attitude assumed by the
fencer as she steps forward or to
the centre of the field before placing
herself on guard is as follows;-Stand
with the body erect, heels Just touching
and toes pointed ont, the right toe in a
straight line with that of the opponent
and the left foot at sharp angle to the
right While the body is held erect it
is swung slightly to the right, thus pre-
senting a three-quarter view to the ad-
versary. The sword hand is held on a
line with the head. The left arm is al
lowed to swing at the side, not close to
the body, however, and with the palm
of the hand turned outward
The salute is a picturesque posture and
is a preliminary to the battle While in
the position just described the fencers
stand at the correct distance from each
other, this being determined by the length
of arms and foils, and the arms of both
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11
ID UKITAN collars are favorite acces-

n URITAN collars are favorite acces-
sores of the young girls shirt waist
suit. These collars are made of white
linen finished with tailor stitched edges
and stiffly laundered. In shape they
greatly resemble the starched, unlined
linen Dutch collars which are usually
hand embroidered in all white mingled
with color They are fastened with
silk Ascot ties or with soft satin messa-
line shield bows, having fancy loops and
fringed nine inch ends.
soft Dutch collars, so-called, are Of
batste, fine linen or lawn, hand embroid-
cred and trimmed with lace or Of alloyer
muslin embroidery finished with n
Valenciennes frillinG. They are joined
with jabots of a matching material or
with Dutch pins.
Sailor collars are of starched plain
white or colored linen edged with hem
stitching. scalloping or waving and em-
broidered in polka dot, vine, eyelet and
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11

~ HE position of "on guard" the
second in the series, is equally in
teresting. Lower the right hand from
first position. turning the knuckles down.
ward and move the blade so that the
left hand grasps it lightly. Then raise
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11
SOCIAL AMENITIES FOR 5
THE SCHOOL GIRL \

right without calling attention to it. Let
your mistake pass without comment, but
show that you are not as stupid as you
seem by making point of calling her by
her right name as soon as possible.
To remedy our mistakes is far better
than apologizing for them in cases like
this, where the remedy can be immediate.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11

hilt and resting fat against the left side,
touching each other lightly.
There is great deal of science in the
grasp of the foil for through her blade
the fencer understands her opponents
\ play and her sword must be free to ware
it off with lightning quickness.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11

IN moving forward or backward the
start is always made with the right
foot and followed by the left One of
the first rules given by the instructor is
to take small steps, never long strides.
The position can be changed or shifted by
ending the right knee forward or straight
ening it. This will move the body for
ward or backward, the distance of the
depending upon the degree of
the bend. When retreating or stepping
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11

least bit rigid in this position, in fact
.pliability is one of the greatest qualities
of the skiful fencer. Neither should the
body be bent in this movement. Advance
the right foot trihe. keeping the knee
directly in line with the instep. DO not
lean forward or backward except when
advancing or retreating, and be sure that
the body is upright. One of The easiest
errors to fall into is bending as the body
retreats or advances. When there is no
one at hand to call attention to such errors
the fencer is apt TO acquire bad habits,
and for this reason class work is excellent
practice.
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11

-" ALUTE, young ladiesr' And
bk at the sound of the fencing
masters voice a score of girls
swing into position, bodies
that were inert quiyer with
excitement of a coming bout
with foils, eyes sparkle with excitement,
and there follows q ring of steel against
steel, telling that the fencing lesson has
begun.
"It is marvellous what have been able
to accomplish with my Glass; confded
the enthusiastic master during a rest in
the daily practice. "When 1 took them
six months ago they were awkward and
ungainly, hardly single movement had
grace and attractiveness. Now look at
them. Are they not quick, sinuous, alert
and well developed young ladies'? Where
could you find a more graceful carriage,
a greater amount of suppleness and light
ness? All, believe me, there is nothing in
all the list of exercises so beneficial to the
feminine figure as fencing, and no girl
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11

and then, aware of our error, we viii say,
perhaps, in a nervous, embarrassed desire
to set ourselves right, oh, pardon me,
! knew you were Mrs. Brown, but l am
so stupid about names Such an apol-
ogy is unnecessary. and, more than that,
it is giving undue emphasis to an error
which, as soon as perceived, you can set
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11
CLAS OF

COEEEGE GIRLS
TAKING a FENcIkG
LES SON OFT DOORS
pHOroS 6|
EpSv$Ro r S,GELow
Los Angeles herald., 1909-07-11

to the beginner who understands the ar
of dancing than to the novice
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1909-08-26
THE cARELEssnEss OF PLEASURE.

Two horrors have shocked the state
within a short time. The owner of a
pleasure boat at Burlington sunk his
launch to the guards with spectators at
a river carnival and tied 1t up to a
barge loaded with fireworks and e1-
plosives. The explosion came and the
horror resulted. The launch owner is
quoted as saying that while he knew
the condition he did think an explosion
would occur.
Yesterday near Humboldt wagon
carrying forty-five children and grown
persons to a picnic raced down a steep
hill to be overturned into a deep rayine
The party had been loaded upon hay
rack-forty-five people behind a single
team. At the steep hill control was
lost. 1t plunged down the descent and
piled a mass Of screaming and fright
ened children into suffocatfng heap
under the struggling horses as Ma
poleon's cuirassiers were piled into the
sunken ditch that has become history.
Many were hurt and two little 12-yesr.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1909-08-26
CRYING TO wREs1 CONTROL. /"

The American Economist and the
vinton Eagle which is the Iowa Econ
omist and supplies the Burlington
Hawkeye and few other local
Economists with Economistic matter
have suddenly been aroused to violent
action. They are convinced that the
progressive element in the republican
party led by the so-called insurgents
intends to wrest control of the party
from the hands of Messrs Aldrich
Elkin, Cannon, ct AL In a Mortified
fashion they announce their fears and
denounce the unholy intent The Amer
lean Economist is sure that is what is
meant, Bernard Murphy, who has long
had suspicious is now convinced of it.
And they are worried as we'll as out
ragged.
Now this confirms the suspicion Of
others of us minor fry. Here in Iowa
there has been a well developed sus-
picion that the progressive movement
had something behind it. It is 81! clear
now. clear as a bell. The progressives
in Iowa were trying TO wrest control
CT the party from the Blythes. Hub
bards, MeTians 81 al. Following the
clue it is now practically certain that
there was something about ratlroal
control Of state administrations and the
censorship Of statutes and officials by
special interests that the voters failed
10 approve for the progressives man
aged Il in Iowa. They "wrested con-
troll"
When a thing is pointed out in the
clear illuminating manner that char
acterizes the pointing of the Econo-
nists how plain il all appears! That
was what the western congressman
and senators were at They were ac-
tually trying to get rid of the Cannon
Aldrich gang as autocrats Of the re-
publican party. Trying to "wrest con-
troll" actually striving to retain for The
party Itself some voice as to its policies
and some power to redeem It's pledges.
Naturally they have in mind the
dumping of certain leaders who repre-
cent interests instead of the party.
How plain il all is
VIII they be able to wrest control
from the gang? The anxiety of the
Special Economists is in ttselt a hope
full sign. It is likely that they will sue
coed. Now that the public knows what
they are trying TO do the people OF the
nation will probably turn in and help
them do it.
But whatever may be done in future
the present has time for little but ad-
miration for the shrewd perspicacity
that has revealed the intention of the
insurgents. They are trying to wrast
control from Cannon and Aldrich.