The new era., 1909-12-02

Ing lts cnlel exports. Shells OF every
description are for sale, but otherwise
there is little one cares to buy. Here
IN the Church of Santo Nino Is pre-
served little black statue of the Holy
Child which was brought over by Ma
gellan. The collection OF jewels for
1t is said to be priceless. They were
stored in Hongkong during the insur-
rection, and they remain there, as the
duty Is too high to permit of their be-
ing brought back. Across the strait is
the little island of Mactan, where Ma
gellan was killed.
On leaving Cebu we stopped at Or
moe in Leyte and then anchored for a
short while in Carigura bay to unload
provisions for Tacloban. At Calbayog,
Samar, we stopped. for couple of
hours only, and then made for home.
and were met in Verde passage by the
steam launch from Batangas, which
brought us to land in two hours.
With visions of waving palms and
bamboos and a riotous burst of color
in your mental picture of the tropics,
Manila is disappointing reality, as it
lies low and business-like along the
water front. The dolce far niente of
southern climes seems to have no
place in this commercial metropolis,
where everything is life and hustle.
The great bay is large enough to ac-
commodate the fleets of the world and
an enormous breakwater built out
from the mainland gives shelter to at
least forty large vessels. At all times
the roadstead is filled with ships, and
the clanking of chains, the footing of
Ehistles and the rapid liquid speech
OF the native coolies working along the
water front create a lively scene.
The houses are raised high above
the ground to avoid the dangerous
earth vapors which the Tagals call
"alimoon," and seek to avoid at the
beginning Of the rainy reason; the
walls are fitted with slides of lattice
work into which shells are inserted in
stead of glass, and with these drawn
back the house looks like an open pa
vilion. The ground floor is occupied
by shops or used as grain store room
or carriage shed, and not infrequently
as a stable, in which case the walls
are dispensed with. These native
houses are built of hard wood, ,uostly
of mahogany, which is disfigured with
whitewash and paint, some of them be-
ing resplendent in pink, blue or yel-
low. The living rooms are reached
by flight of stone steps running
up on the outside. Rents in Manila
are high, 200 or 800 pesos .(s1OO or
$3.50 being the average price per
month for dwelling of moderate
size.
The city of Manila proper is a huge
fortress, surrounded by high stone
walls and bastions and bulwarks on
the landward side and protected by
moat which may be flooded by means
of sluices to cut off the city. Fort San.
tiago, the citadel, guards the entrance
to the Pasig, which divides Manila into
two parts-the walled city Just de.
scribed and the commercial centers.
The Escolta in Binondo is the prin.
cipal shopping street and it is pros.
porous looking with it's many pedes-
trians, its trolley cars and electric
lights; the shops are up to date and
almost all desires can be satisfied II
you are willing to pay Manila prices
Here, as everywhere in the islands,
John Chinaman absorbs large part
of the trade and IS the picture of con
tentment as he lazily smokes his pipe
in the doorway.
Everywhere you encounter the faith
full carabao, sometimes plodding along
under heavy load, his great horns
swaying with the constant nodding OF
his head and his fat body rocking
from side to side, sometimes drawn
up to the sidewalk, where he lies
down in harness, Indifferent to the
march of progress around him. Little,
half clothed children run about, dodg-
ing the flying heels of swift native
ponies. These tiny mites of horses,
with an average height of eight hands,
are spirited and sturdy little objects
which have dropped the word tired out
ot their vocabulary. The city looks
like toyland let loose, with its jum-
ble of delicious little vehicles, all
racing as if it were matter of life
and death.
There is a crying need for hotels In
Manila and high prices are charged
for scant comfort and moderate fare
But YOU can dine at the Cafe Luzon
and enjoy delicious meal served
Spanish fashion with a pile of plates
in front of each person
HENRIETTA SANDS ANDERSON.