The San Francisco call., 1909-10-31

Two ot the most Snotioeab1e fsA.
tures OF the styles this fall ere
thsif tendency TO fu1lness and
their grace. The new round
skirts measure at least four yards at
the hem instead OF the two and a-haIf
which was the accepted measurement
a whilG ago These fuller styles are
Gar more generally becoming. for, to
tell the truth. the narrow garments OF
last year were only seen to advantage
on very slender and graceful women,
and they are not in majority. When
the fullness is arranged In long lines
and is fashioned OF light, soft, supple
material It is as a rule becoming 10 ths
average figure. but when the fad for
crosswtss lines. either of trimming or
Shirred or drapeo effects. comes into
play. It requires a very skillful han
ding not 70 give a broad and heavy
appearance TO the wearer. The French
dress makers understand this art to
perfection, and we find that under
their flowing draperies the lines of
grace are fully preserved. and that
there is never a suggestion of clumsi-
ness or the use Of superhuous material
about them. The fabrics which are
used especially for the evening gowns,
are partly responsible for these charm
ing effects. Never before have more
beautiful materials been produced: they
are soft and supple and shimnery,
with wonderful draping qualities, and
many Of them will pass easily through
the proverbial ring. Cachemire de sole,
with its soft, dull iuster and beautiful
coloring, is perhaps the leader. and
other favorites among the silks for
evening wear are satin charmeuse,
crepe meteor. cotele satin, chiffon cloth,
marquisette and crepe brilliant.
The change from narrow skirts to
full ones is precisely what might have
been expected BY any one who has kept
in touch with the tendencies of the
fashions, for every exaggerated style
is followed by reaction. It is inter-
esting stos review the changes that have
taken place during the past hundred
years and to see how the pendulum Aas
swung slowly from one extreme to the
other In the early part of the nine
teenth century the short wasted gown
and skinny skirts of the empire were
worn, then in the .twenties there was
revolution in the styles, skirts became
shorter and more voluminous and were
trimmed wifi flowers and puffs and
ruchings. the sleeves grew fuller and
the waist came nearer to its natural
position. This was followed by the
vogue Of romantieism, when the women
wore the clinging gowns of the middle
ages. but only for a brief time; soon
after came the full skirts of the second
empire during which period the En-
press Eugene set the fashions, and the
skirts developed under her influence
into the crinoline and the hoop skirt,
atrocious styles which BOT all the arts
of the Paris designers were potent
enough TO revive when they made the
attempt a few years ago. After the
crinoline the gowns became tight A.
ting again, and SO they have .alternated.
first full and then scanty. up to the
present time and il seems quite safe
20 prophesy that in the present case
the pendulum has still further to swing
before 5. starts on its return.
- II has been said that the new styles
are the most gorgeous. the most pic
turesoue and the most brilliant ever
known, but the same thing has been
claimed for the styles Of other years