The labor world. [volume] (Duluth, Minn.) 1896-current, 1909-05-29
VIEW YORK, April 24.-This Is
N !. another one of those excep-
n tions that prove the RULE. I


Xxi another one of those excep-
- tons that prove the RULE. I
seldom give advice, but I am
going to administer a dose of 1T now.
Ny dear madame and mademoiselle, If
You have directoire, empire or middle
ge-moyen-costumes in your ward
robe wear them now, wear them reck-
lessly, even if they are the best rags"
you own. while they are at the high tide
Of present popularity, for there is an
undercurrent in the affairs of fashion
that points to the rapid passing from
our midst of these charming styles.
After a careful study of the latest
models sent over by Partisan. designers
one arrives at the depressing .conclu-
sion that the tight skirts, plain in the
back and narrow at the bottom, will
soon be a trifle out of fashion. The
very short waists also have a "has
BEEN air. Fortunately the changes in
the new models so far are: not ex-
tremely radical. We can't leap out of
a Sheath" into a "hoop," canwe? Still,
the changes that have appeared show
which way the modistic straw is blow
ing: Frocks, however, built along the
lines Of the smart winter models will
pass muster all through the summer,
but in the fall there is reason to be-
lieve that they will be among the
"snows of yesteryear." So. in spite Of
seeming unpleasantly insistent, I re-
peat, don't, to use a commercial term,
"stock up" too heavily with clothes
following the spring modes unless you
can discard them in the autumn with
out feeling financially embarrassed, for
the directoire frocks demand the ex-
ercfse of cleverness positively ap-
preaching genius to remodel them.
Still, for the moment, the straitlaced
lady of long lines, all up and down., is
the ideal catered to in the spring suits.
Apropos OF these suits, I heard a wo-
man who was looking at walking
gowns in one of our big shops. here
say to the saleswoman: Mrs. Noah Of
ark. fame seems to have been the in
spiration for these Styles: Of course"
she continued, adams wife was lin
tied to fabrics, but these suits have.
surely copied her primness in their YER
I tical cuts"
It was the novelty of the suit which
= aroused the comparison with Mrs.
Noah, I am sure. There is, though,
something fetching in these clinging
styles when the figure is svelte and
graceful !. ..-.>
Among ) imported gowns the most
striking <lnnovations are to be found in
the SIX b. many of them showing full
ness a the back and others boasting
draper recalling pannier days. The
new skirt fullness is introduced in soft,
cl1nging drapery, in plaits or f1ounces
set into close fitting jupes, and there is
fancy for narrow shirred backs COM
bined with plain front and side lines.
1t is only in the Exceptional models,
however, that this skirt houffancy lis
frankly expressed. The panther, for
instance, when it does appear on a
frock is so modest and fiinsy that it
scarcely suggests the old time effect
that years ago answered to this name:
Another former style that has been
revived is the washWoman drapery
which on few gowns emanating from
the MaisOn Beer is in evidence BY
the way, that famous dressmaker has
gone over to the majority, the name
alone, like that of Paquin, being left
for fashion to conjure with.
Some of the new cloth and serge
walking skirts are cut with flare to-
ward the hem; but, as though changing
it's mind after thus freeing itself from
the perpendlcu lar the fullneSs folds it.
self over on each side of the front or
back from knee to hem, many little
loops and buttons fastening it fat In
some cases a long tab from the side
breadth reaches across the back Of the
ankles and gathers in the center back
width. The latter is popularity not
to be recommended.
It is comforting to know that if ones
skirt is cut after the approved lines
one can wear any kind of sleeve one
wants, always providing the manche is
rather close fitting about the arm
Long sleeves are the fashionable rule.
but three-quarter and elbow lengths are
seen on many exclusive French models.
The long sleeve appears generally in
transparent fabrics and is the: entire
arm length or hangs from aft upper
portion. of more substantial material.
Even a display of fullness is attempted
in some of the French sleeves, the full
ness. appearing in long puff between
close fitting upper sleeve and a close
fitting cuff. This puff : of some di-