The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1909-01-31

finished the hem and extended in points
up the back.
The sleeves were extremely loose and
We're finished at the wrists with gold
embroidery and deep yellow lace. The
collar buttoned close and under that
same materials as the coat, with gold
embroidery and lace, but coming up
from the sides and back were strips of
wide gold lace, which were fastened at
the top of the head with big gold
butterfly.
Hoods, of course, have been used for
many years to cover coiffures of women
at opera or in the theater but to see
them in the afternoon would be I'M
usual. Yet. If the girls here follow the
latest lead of their Partisan sisters the
fad will spread. Advance styles in
hoods are dainty and attractive and it
is intimated that the tabled Red Rid
ing Hood coat may be model for the
1909 belle!
The fashionable women of every city
have a rare opportunity this season of
displaying individuality in dress. The
variety of the new materials and the
well defined styles afford excellent
scope for the women of cleverness in
the matter of dress. Since her return
from abroad Mrs Francis j. Carolan
variety of attractive gowns in her fa-
vorite shade of gray. Mrs. Carolan has
a distinguished bearing and can well
afford to wear the dull grays that she
has chosen so happily. Her grace
permits Of the long lines that are the
! mark Of SO many foreign creations and
she has such q subtle sense of harmony
that IS well worked out in the various
grays. With a handsome street gown
ic r. q m in Ia3.
same tones.
The new fashioned silk, satin or
chiffon brocaded in self-colored velvet,
the material, by the way, that the
countess of Granard selected for an
elaborate gown, is finding increased
favor in many wardrobes. One gown
for formal afternoon wear rather than
for dinner or evening could be dis
tinctly rich and distinctive fashioned
in indigo blue with the brocade in all
over floral pattern gold net of the
same mesh. A gown made in this
way has been described as an effect OF
blending light and color only obtain
able by use of the new metallic GAUGES
laces and passementeries in which the
metallic threads are used instead Of
the old fashioned silk. The costume
complete would mean smart neckpiece
Of ermine with square collar in the
back and stole front; also a large black
hat faced with cloth of gold and
trimmed in black plumes.
Among the fashionable furs ermine
is the favorite. Florence Cluf is wear
ing a handsome set with a turban to
match her stole and muff Mrs. Harry
Umbsen also has a becoming set of err
mine that is remarkably effective with
her fair coloring. With the ermine she
often wears a brown velvet gown. Miss
Cuffs favorite gown with her ermine
set is directoire model in two shades
of blue.
Miss Jeanne GaIlois is one of the
younger girls who is wearing variety
of pale blues this season and the
smart black hats that she affects are
particularly stunning. She has an even
ing gown in the blue OF directoire satin
and touch of rare lace that is very
attractive
Miss Eliza McMullin, the little debu-
tante, who is the pet of her grand
mother. Mrs. John McMullin, is a pretty
picture in pale blue and has gown
made very simply in the eff6ttive color
with white lace trimming that she
wears occasionally to teas and debu-
tante parties.
At recent dinner party Mrs. Henry