The San Francisco call., 1909-12-12

and lending themselves to dozen diff
ferent shapes. OF these the Uhlan and
the oriental are possibly the preferred
ones
The subject of hats Will bear a little
elaboration right here. Evidently the
turban is to take on as many kinks and
curls as the milliner can devise. And
with each new kink comes a new name.
We have had Turkish, Uhlan, Rus
sian, cossack, sultan; now we are to
have Rembrandt, Henry III. hussar, De
Stael, drum major and Napoleon.
Some of the furs of which they are
made are of the ultra fashionable ring
tail; also ermine and sealsl1in, Austria
lian opossum and moleskin. The drum
major turban is trimmed with a cir
clet of antique gold and bronze set
with jewels
The latter are very new and smart
and will not stir the wrath of the
Audubon society. A thick quill is
used; then the long coarse fur of the
monkey is put in at each side 1t is
amazing what Influence Audubonists
are having on millinery and these fur.
quills are one outcome of it.
Bronze lace is widely used for trim
ming and ermine and sealskin without
trimming are among the most dis
tinguished turbans of the season.
Another model that has startling dis
tinction is of moleskin trimmed with
heroic pansy made of blue and violet
bugles with a gold center
The cossack hat has its place among
them, and it will be chosen by the
woman who will have her new tailor
suit made with a long Russian blouse
instead of a coat.
This garment promises to be in the
lead. and it looks especially we'll in the
rough, shaggy fabrics that the shops
offer today. instead of the once preva-
lent broadcloths. These have a zibe-
line finish, that, in itself, is suggestive
of the bitter Moscow winters
The features that were borrowed di-
rectly from the Russian dancers and
that will rule the season are furs and
metal fabrics. The latter will trim
gowns in every way the designer can
invent
1t will go on street suits. house
gowns and ball gowns of the most
gauzelike weaves. Whether it is pre-
must be there. that is all.
Just how women will walk or dance
in the massive metal fabrics designed
for house wear will be solved as the
social season advances.
Last winter it was silver and gold;
this season are added bronze, copper,
steel, jet, crystal and every hue of
colored beads. Vestments, bodice
shields, girdles and sleeves are these
ponderous and massive embroideries.
Women will clash like cymbals when
they walk across the room.
Miss Sigrid GUIDE, daughter of the
Norwegian minister to Washington, is
an ardent suffragist. say those who are
watching with interest every additional
votary of the cause and predicting
their influence upon the question of
the hour. Miss GUIDE has spent many
years in England where she was edu-
Gated, and she is in active sympa thy
with the fight of English women for
the franchise. She believes women in
this country and throughout Europe
will be voting within a few years, and
is proud of the fact that equal suffrage
got its practical start in the old world
in the Scandinavian peninsula and Fin
land. Miss GUIDE will not side openly
with the suffra gists in this country, by
reason of the diplomatic post filed by
her father. She intends. however, to
keep close watch on the movement. She
is a clever musician, and as she speaks
English as fluently as her native tongue
she will find herself at home in Wash
ington society
The vaudeville tea given recently by
the members of Albert Sidney Johns
ton chapter, u. ID. c., exceeded all ex-
pectations in the matter of social sue
cess. 1t is not amiss to mention i'm n
mediately that Mrs. Virginia Aldrich
Beede was responsible for the excellent.
program and much Of the eclat of the