New-York tribune., 1909-04-18


Escb week the costumes launched by the great
houses seem more and more capnclous- I0.-e
rsnidlv through several exhibition rooms ge"ilHs
he,. end there one is told many different tales'
one authority favors high hip drapinss ana paiiier
ersc4s: another. equally celebrated oisclals 'ii
..1hst epoch is for collectors. he says HoI iol
ro,+,,-4ers'' Still he clings the collante skirt
g., .i,-,a5. the sofrlv arranged bodice and the
,o- lines Of the coat or uneXaElpleo richness are
ris materials splendid brocades woven from &c
SIGNS of cldtrne stiff silks But these new F'uiLs
&c s,5nnleness itself He also affects Powered
,-rpes and two toned crepes, ana over thefn iahss
rold and silver nets and plain Chantlly laoeS
rorsft with family eolored silk threads into dell
cate color schemes
The man who launched last winter the charming
toiIets OF the noyen age preserves in his ventures
fc- the spring the same lines His bodlces are
long, with pleated OF gathereo ehHNS tu
loose hung giTdles
Shall We really wear paniers? he was asked
sAht who can tell2" he replied
A. ~. house the material preferred for dressy
costumes is silk voiie hung, transparent over an
other hsr1nonizng color in shades this oressTAker
r,-sfs-- eeires oyster shell white. pearl gray
shadowy pink like the inside OF some sea sileis'
and several shades Of old blue.
s+su another admits that the present modes are
-,s-e,v tentative, and while as prolific as others
=, --fer,utinz draperies declares his preference
.. Fo- .nes He also prefers vivid grass green
old rose and cerse, soft and ndescribapiy oehca1e
IN e general way he is a partisan of slInphclH
,csr-ied out in tunic forms. and for enbroiderles
done On the material after the gown is shaped
tone On tone His choice is the new printed NOUS
.eIi,es which from his designs are shaped into
things Of beauty. Such gowns have little trimming
save IN the ribbon adornment-a bow perhaps a
sash, or a twist on the sleeves
Sleeves are short long. ss one wills, and Mt
che s--ns closely II long. the shoulder line Is long
with small arnlhoie and little pun at the elbow
@kpG
or cs fne net have become so common as TO be
.ntee bic 20 exclusive folk The sleeve at present
.he, must be Of the material OF the gown IL
suo-t Il ends above the elbow, and an undersleeVe
fss rrsva6ed drawn into pun that droops over the
.sr5ow or into hand that clasps the arm halfway
tbetveen elbow and wrist
As was prophesied fong in these columns, lace
tss little useo iu the first gowns Of the season
There IS lace 70 be sure but e is covered with
raised e-nbroideries. threads outlining the
design motifs OF gold silver, buds. leaves and
dots as TO disguise the fact that II is used as a
| Foundation When lace Is frankly used It is the
MISUNDERSTANDING. Mechlin other fine mesh.
itnstesa of the heavier varieties that have held the
fancy so long,
N vide Design at the bottom padded with coarse
sak On the siGes and back the lace is gathered TO
q yoke that drops lower the hips. and Is covered
vim heavy embroidery. The front breadth hangs
from the best. shaping into narrow embroidered
pieces that pass the shoulders 10 finish in the
hznx IN sash ends The rest the bodice is Of fine
net made apparently without lining
Simple graceful. yet plainly suggestive OF the
escoad Empire. IS a gown CT black mousseline de
sole hung over a foundation of coral moussene de
sole winding the overdress passing through siits
er. IN the rnousseline is g wide soft coral satin
ribbon. At the edge Of the hips IS the first rib
bon tying on the side in immense fat bow; at
the height OF the knees the other. tying little