Evening journal., 1909-08-24


creased fuliness of skirt and
q decided lcngthcning Of bod
ice. with a lowering of the waist line.
And these changes Just as We have
become accustomed to the graceful
high waist line OF the empire skirt
We'll, such is fashion. II takes a year
or two 40 prophcsy the advent OF
new mode and only a few months in
which TO enjoy it when II arrives.
There is already "A tendency toward
compression about the waist that is
IN direct ratio 20 the tendency toward
larger waist measurements, and this
viii later on, If an signs do not fail,
result in the wasp waist. From Paris,
the city of modes, already comes
hint that we are to be buttoned into
basoucs that will have fringe around
tho edge and tails I'm the back. This
picfilre. suggestive OF revival OF the
fashions of several decades ago, may
indicate the general lines Of the gown
Of the coming season. but 1t would
take a stout hearted prophet TO predict
the return of the old fashioned, tight
hitting boned waist Women have be
como too accustomed 20 the grace and
comfort Of the semi-lined bodice 20
change II for the close fitting boned
Innings
what one win see in new bodice de-
Nelopments in the fall viii be draperes
that give width TO the shoulders
Fichus have returned, and bretelles
are unusually wide and swing well
over the arm seam Waist draperics
that were recently considered dc mode
are now used on tho smartest gowns.
The entire efforts OF the modistes
seem 70 be 10 hide the armhole when
last winter just the reverse was true.
on a number Of French summer frocks
old fashioned HANDKERCHIEF draperios
OF soft muslin, lace edged, arc placed
at a point I'm tho back. brought over
tho shoulders and down TO the bust,
where they are crossed and then tuck
cd into the belt, or the long ends reach
almost to the skirt hem in the back,
where they are knotted in sash style.
There Is no doubt that moyon age
modes win hold good through the fan
and probably retain their vogue dur
ing the winter season. And the smart
walking dress for the autumn win be
the model, with the middle age cuirass
bodice coming well down over the
hips and in some instances extending
quite TO the knee line, where IL is met
by a plated skirt This cuirass or
coat of mail bodice IS nothing more
than a tight fitting princess shoathing
tho figure and bringing out it's out
lines from bust to knees. II takes an
exceptionally good figure 20 stand this
very trying style, and by way of warn
ing ] would say that il Is a mode for
the stout and thin woman alike to
avoid only the well proportioned
mondaine can affect it with success.
A stunning long waistcd and short
slSirtcd gown has a panel back AID
front which reaches tho knees TO a
trine below where it is met by SOC
tion of tho plating that joins the
deeper kits at the sides or the skirt
proper.
As for full skirts. either plated OF
gathered, with scarf a sash or fshwifs
p drapcry about tho hips, their nane ..
legion. often these drapcrios ar,
placed even lower than the knees. Yes
We might as well make up oui
minds. whether we admire these
styles or not. that drapory Of all kinds
Is the newest movement" and that
Increasing fullnoss more or less fam
tasticallv handled is unqucstionably
the most important element in the
smartest modes OF the coming season.
Directolro styles may have brought
about immodest and absurd extremes.
but at least they fostered q simplicity
of line which, conservativoiy handled.
made for grace. while tho present
tendency toward elaboration. curious
drapery effects. horizontal or bias lines
OF trimming, cutting the figure length
wise. achieves the original more often
than the becoming.
The modish walking skirt viii be
plated in a variety Of now ways. but
tho plaits In every instance will be
pressed fat as they can be and super
nuons material cut away from them
In making. Tho plated skirt Of today
10 a muitisored ono IN all cases. OF