Evening star., 1909-05-09

Ice was perfectly tight fitting and came
down far over the hips after the manner
of the jersey Jackets OF long ago. This
long bodice was met by a killed skirt and
by a turned back sash drawn very ..ght
over the hips, resembling a fishwife's
skirt turned up and pinned behind to keep
IL clean. The bodice departed from the
jersey severity by having a square yoke
effect of oriental embroidery and high
collar picked out with the same trimming.
This gown. mingling Familiarity as 1t did
with frocks boasting clinging semi-Greek
draperies and Byzantine stoles and panels,
produced quite small sensation. Madam,
too. wore one of the new high crowned
hats of the market basket persuasion. If
old photographs are to be trusted, the ex-
ira high crowned hats of the Jersey
I.ily's'' day were exactly like those to be
seen In the showrooms of the best known
milliners. 1t is evidently impossible for
even dress autocrats to keep on inventing
novelties forever. They are bound to re-
peat themselves and this time it seems
though they had made up their minds to
revive old styles without any attempt 10
alter them
We were told this spring. in the early
part of the season. that puffed sleeves and
gowns heavily trimmed with ruchings and
puffings would be worn. And yet these
wonderful puffs do not make their appear
ance. Every one hints at them and fre-
Quently sneers at them, but l have met
no one who has actually seen them. With
regard to sleeves | unhesitatingly place
myself in the position of prophet We
shall certainly wear sleeves slightly puffed
at the elbow this summer-that Is TO say,
sleeves that are moderately puffed at the
shoulder and gathered at the elbow into
a long tight undersleeve. We have had
such sleeves now and then since the days
of Eve. and / suppose we shall never
really grow tired of them. Many of the
elaborate afternoon gowns have sleeves
and then again tight on the forearm
Personally / consider this style hideous,
but IL will be fashionable.
Another vexed question seems to be the
waist OF tomorrow" Are we to go in
for the old style of tight lacing. or are We
TO adhere to the present outline of figure.
which may be described as natural? Here
again l venture TO prophesy: or pinched
in waists we shall see nothing. Women
will not again, without considerable pro-
test, accept the hour-glass style of figure.
The waist line, however. is slowly but
none the less surely creeping -own. 1t Is
a safe guess that by fall II will reach the
normal location
But with high waists or long waists we
are eager to welcome the charming clothes
for spring and summer that Dame Fash
ion has designed for our approval. We
are glad to be rid of the dark gowns as
ISOLATED with the cold. gray days OF win
ter Then, too summer 1rocks seem Tess
expensive than those or Winter-a most
fallacious theory, presume. for one buys
more thin frocks.' and these little cos
tunes do mount up. Still, IL one does not
strive to reflect the latest cry in fashions
IL is possible to be better dressed in sum-
mer with less expenditure than at any
other season. There are lovely foulards,
muslins and cotton r1arauisettes that
make up beautifully IL one can only have
them constructed at home, or. better still.
be ones own modiste. In the one-piece
princess models all thu materials may
be used with good effect. The one-piece
dress is the style OF the moment. but
when hot days really come women will
betake themselves to the cool and COM
Portable blouse and skirt. The one-piece
model is charming for spring wear and
for cool summer days. but for hot wealth
or worn with or without a coat. IL is in
tolerable In the newest OF the princess
frocks the bodice portion is little more
than bib. none of the heavier material
being employed. This provides GOODNESS