Daily Arizona silver belt., 1909-10-10

nFpNlOuS style has won the exclusive right of way in this seasons fashion. Side by side with Moyen Age styles may bel found the panier dress of the French court. Many of these are made with kilted underslirts and outer draPeries of chiffon Sometimes the low-plaeed sash is also used, threaded in and out through the drapery or half concealed by it.
 One of these latest importatiOns is a dress in which the designer has com pleted the fehu with the panier The fchu, folded over the shoulders, contin- ues down the front and back, forming panels. which are draped to give pan fer effect. One very handsome gown is of gray stain draped over full skirt of silver gray crepe de chine. The over dress is quite tight over the hips, though if flares halfway between the knees and the floor, so that it may be brought mn at the front and tied at the knee line. This allows sufficient fullness for walking, which will be appreciated by American women.
 The cuirass has now appeared trim ned somewhat on the lines of barber pole. Formerly. to give length of line, whether braiding or embroidery, eN' tended straight from the shoulder to hin line; but success has made design CTS bold and cuirasses now appear braid ed and embroidered in bands extending round and round the figure Many or tbe cuirass gowns are designed to hook under the left arm. This leaves an unbroken line at front and back, and it helps to carry out the idea of armour plate, which formed the original culr- ass.
 Many of the newest cloth gowns are made of big square revers, but they are not stiff They are merely shaped pieces of material allowed to fall away from the V-shaped neck, and to ripple gently at the lower edge in a way that sug gests limpness more than anything else. While they are feature of the new street costumes, they must of necessity be made of material the raw edges or salvage of which may be used in an unfinished state. A canvas or lining would spoil the big Tevers and take from them all the style they have.
 Pretty semi-evening gowns, called abroad casinO-gowns, are being woFu with but slight decolletage and trans parent guimpes of tulle Ar mouseline. The materials used on gowns of this type are embToideries laces or crepe de chimes, for satin seems to be somewhat passe Many of them are trimmed with deep silk fringe, and, as the guimpe IS always collarless, beautiful dog collars of ieweled or velvet or jet are worn, so that the gown may be becoming If worn with a hat.
 Perhaps the newest note in the even ing gown is the appearance. of the Pir- de. It is high and gives contral ' which is artistieally necessary to the fulness appearing at the top of the skirt. This fulness necessitates the use of soft. supple materials to give cling ing line. Two-toned effects are shining in the evening lights. These are obtain ed by combinations of chiffon and an underdress of satin, or by different lay CTS of chiffon in pale, contrasting col ors. Black is used, true Parisian com bination. Fur has been added by many designers, and brocaded silk IS charm ingly incorporated in the girdle and skirt of one of the latest models.
 Ouaintness of evening gowns IS re- peated in styles for evening wraps. The old fashioned dolman is very apparent When made of supple material trim med with large rolling fur collars they are delightful combination oi clinging lines and protective warmth The influence of Louis XVI is appear ing in the evening mantles, as in other costumes. A wrap which shows tho lines of that style is the tempting otfel of one of the important French houses It is long cape, topped with fascin ating hood. The material is satin bro cade yelled with chiffon. Tiny, soft friIls of chiffon line the capuchon; fui edges the hood, appearing in broade band at the bottom of the cape.
 Blouses for fall are readily divided into two distinct classes; tailored shir waists of valuable materials and Tathe dressy blouses of liberty satin, chiffon crepe de chine or the new fashionable moire antique silk. In many eases thes' dressy blOuses fasten at the back though there is apparently fastening down one side of the front. This i because the stock collar and guimp of lace are SO much more satisfactoril, adjusted in a blouse fastening at tn back. This back closing, however, i always invisible, the fastening beini apparently down the front.
 One-sided effects seem to be the craz just now and almost every waist has side fastening, with a pleated frill eS tending all or part way from the shold CT to the waist lire, or row of seal lops or square tabs in each of which l set button. A satin blouse with tha arrangement was shown in one of tn shops the other day. In this blouse on side of the front lapped over the othel the edge being cut into squares or bal tlemented," as the dressmakers call I Every alternate square was buttone back and a pleated net jabot was lai under the others. The tie, made of nal row ribbon and crochet insertion dye in a shade a bit lighter than the blous material, was drawn through the turne back tabs in a very graceful effect.
 Another blouse, of satin, and desigl ed by Redfern, to accompany a dar blue coat, and skirt of eheviot was d, s-s l..