New-York tribune., 1909-10-17

Paris OCTOBER D.
If 'tho luxury of women is cruelty to beasts
then indeed, this seasons modes are serious IN
dictment against the feminine world Skins OF
beasts, large and small; their heads. tails and
claws. are used in profusion TO adorn costumes Tor
every function Whole gowns are made OF fur, as
we'll long redingotes and great nantes. Beauti-
full garments short coats and jerseys first launched
in the summer time at TrOuviIle are wonderfully
shaped from peau de daim Thick brocaded silk
finishes them at the neck and wrists.
Besides revelling in the skins of beasts for the
adornment of their hats, women cheerfully pay
enormous sums for the spoils of the feathered
tribe; their plumes. wings and tails. Ostriches
are stripped not only to supply feathers for hats
but also for a woven texture for muffs. capes
and stoes This feather cloth is the novelty OF
the season. Besides black and white, it is dyed in
all the colors in the silk and woolen materials
of the season.
At an exhibition OF furs opened yesterday
shown gowns and garments of sable. chinchilla and
ermine. Furs Of lesser quality wrought with
much skill into costly adornments A stole cape OF
fox drips in the back, a fringe OF fur tails that
reach below the waist; cluster OF three hangs
from each end in front The mufc is freakishy
built to simulate small dog with truly IfelikS
eyes.
To be worn with short cloth or silk skirt is a
long coat Of shining bretschwanz fur Half way
the skirt of it is cut by slantlng strip OF long
haired fur that forms deep fringe. There is
wide collar of It, and in novel fashion it falls over
the hands and fringes each end of long round
mum. OF much splendor is long manteau OF chin
chla fur bOrdeTed wide with finest sable The
latter turns deem at the neck. and borders wide
sleeves to the elbows. The garment laps far to
side, fastening under great motifs of mingled
brown and gray fur. 1t is lined with shaded gray
satin and faced with chinchilla.
In skilled hands fur fur trimmed hat sug.
gests lightness and grace. A nice example is of
brown MORE silk, laid smoothly large frame
band OF tarnished gold lace half circles the
crown, with one end held under a large fiat silk
covered button at the edge of the brim. on the
opposite side poses large, fiat rosete OF gold lace
holding in place three sable tails that fall over
the brim like a feather.
Around the large crown Of a black velvet hat is
broad band OF sable fur punctured by large silk
roses of dull shade of heotrope A hat OF black
molre silk has its wide brim slightly turned up at
side and faced with copper colored silk laid In
the tniest of pleats A scarf OF the silk, edged
on each side with sable fur, softly bands the crown
At each side is huge wheel rosette. bound with
fur; from its centre hangs one sable tail. hat
designed for a young girl has its wide brim bound
with fur: a broad fur band that circles the sof,
crown Is dotted with punches OF tiny roses made
OF shaded pink silk and set in leaves Of mottled
greens and browns.
The burning questions OF the moment are
whether ones new costume shall be made with a
long or short coat, ana whether tho new hat
shall be large small AS matter Of fact the
short coat from IT'S novelty, must surely gain
ground before spring, but at present one kind Is
worn as much the other. Tho word small as
applied to the hat, means nothing. All hats are
large in reality. In contrast to those Of wide
spreading brim. the closer higher hats appear
small woman learned in the art OF dress and
soWning and It's accessories declares that the
older tho woman the larger should be her hat.
Besides serving a head covering 1t should shield
and shadow tho face With furrowsa brow. hollow