davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27

and silver frocks ideally beautiful and
refined.
Jet trimmings of all sorts are having
Il tremendous vogue and black evening
gowns with tunics trimmed with jet are
the smartest costume one can select now
for after-dark occasions. These black
gowns. however. must be very glittering
dead black or even luStrouS black sat
in used alone not being considered chic
Every Self-respecting evening gown, also,
has three layers-one of satin as a foun-
dalton. one of embroidered OR metallic
gauze and one of yelling chiffon in tunic
form-or the outer tunic may be of beaded
net and the under one of SOftening chf-
fon. These chiffon tunics are used over
WoOlStuffs. also, and over frocks of
permo- mixture-the wool and mohair
combination, which is bit more dressy
than serge or cashmere.
Au claire de la lune is new trimming
something like jet, but less crudely bril-
liant and with soft opal lights. 1t is
also much lighter in weight than jet
which is a bit burdensome When used in
large quantities.
Initiating the days OF ancient Byzantine
and Egyptian extravaganza. precious
stones even are now wrought into the
fabric Of beauty's frocks. The young
Countess of Grannard Miss Beatrice
Mlls). who has charmed all London with
her originality and grace as hostess.
appeared at a luncheon during the season
IN a White satin frOck emDrOldered with
diamonds. Could sumptuousness in fabric
further go? No wonder the tiaras and
necklaces are sulking in safe deposit
vaults until this period of outrivaling
glitter in fabrics and trimmings shall
have passed
AS 1or trimmines-the landings. the
motifs, the medallions. fringes, tassels.
festoons, boleros and the like-the whole
eastern world has been canvassed for
barbaric and gorgeous effects. Arabia,
Algeria. Hungary. Bulgaria, Roumania,
China, Russia, PerSia-all add their modf-
cum of splendor to the array spread for
the modiste's selection this fall There
are complete cuirasses of overlapping
pailettes on net, with sleeves attached
and a finish of fringe at the bottom. all
ready to wear over separate skirts, and
between these and the embroidered band
ings there are all sorts of stoles, motifs
and small pieces. which turn very sober
gown into a thing of magnifcence. The
clever woman this year is appliquing
these rich metallic trimmings to her old
satin evening frock and yelling the whole
with chic chiffon tunic.
The embroidered landings defy descrip-
ton. Those of. silver and gold threads
interviewer with color are most effective
when yelled with chiffon, but there are
beaded and bugled trimmings SO subdued
in coloring that they may be used as they
are. The applique trimmings with gauze
roses attached to chiffon grounds are
rarAy lovely for evening costumes, and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27
For the Boudoir.

IN the exquisite little desk of curly
~ maple or mahogany which is set be-
tween the windows in my lady's upstairs
derous as brass appointments is per-
mitted. If not of silver, the pieces may
be of pure white cut glass. deicately
cut in graceful shapes and rich patterns.
Inkstand, stamp box, pen tray, blotter
the white glass, which is most effective
in room of pastel coloring.
Opera Favorites in Miniature.
before a 9th avenue music store win
- dow the other day many people stop
ped with amusement and pleasure to
look at the tiny opera stars" in correct
costume, all represented by wax dolls.
Cleverly propped up by wires. Calve
and Escamiilo in brilliant Spanish colors
Wed with Aida and Radames Tosca,
posed with her directoire staff, gazed
scornfully at poor little Butterfly, and
Faust and Gretchen were there. too. ap-
propriately costumed. Most interesting
of all: however, was tall, slender dolly.
superbly gowned in cinging draperies
and ticketed upon her high pedestal,
Mary Garden, in That's"
How a Queen Does Her Shopping.
THE woman who may enjoy the de-
! lights of a bargain counter and ex-
perience the pleasure of saving on this
in order to spend on that should pity
the poor royal personages who have their
shopping made so deplorabiy easy that
there is no zest in it. When her high
ness wishes n new silk dress a message
is dispatched to the Shopkeeper and sew
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27

UNLESS one can glitter and CLEAN
one might as we'll stay at home
nowadays. like Cinde rella
~ among her cinders. for of what
avail is it to venture abroad
when all the rest of femininity is so bril-
liant in garb that ones own subdued
raiment is unseen?
We are passing through d sumptuous
period. The dressmakers. missing their
aim at the pastel and pearly Vatican
colorings of the Louis XVI era. have
taken up; con amore, the gorgeous hues
of the Russian vogue now rampant in
Paris A Russian dress revival always
sets the pace for utmost extravaganza
and luxury in fabrics and trimmings.
Over in Russia, where precious stones
are served by the wine gassful as dinner
favors. gold, silver and other metallic
trimmings are worn on velvet and bro
caded gowns as we wear ValencienneS
lace on a lingerie frock.
The manufacturers, foreseeing this Rus
sian craze, have outdone themselves in
splendid effects. The new brocaded sat
ms. sewn with gold and silver threads
the chiffons sewn with pearls; the metal
lie cloths showing rare colors shot with
gold and silver threads-the eye is fairly
bewildered with gorgeousness and beauty.
French dressmakers have managed these
brilliant fabrics with consummate skill
In spite of the craze for metallic trim
mings, and for bold, crude Russian color
ings, ."sad effects are the rule in Paris
and It is right here that the difference
lies between French necromancy of sar-
torial art and the efforts of the aver
age American dressmaker, who hlithely
makes up a bridge frock from old blue
silk cashmere, adds a yoke of chiffon to
match and divides the two by line Of
blue and gold embroidery The French
artistic making the same frock would APP
ply her metallic trimming to the cash
mere frock and then veil the whole with
the chiffon. producing a mysterious. elu-
sive effect of sad color frightened by
CLINT of metal.
Miss Hattie Williams in her play this
season wears a French frock which is a
most happy illustration Of this effect of
sad coloring, produced with garfsh ma
terials. vivid green, called arsenic, was
chosen for the foundation of satin. Over
this falls a chiffon gown richly embroid
cred with green floss and emerald ca
bochons and silver bugles. Yelling this
embroidered tunic in turn is d second
tunic of plain. sheer, black chiffon. The
effect is indescribably beautiful
The Callots adore the CLINT of gold and
silver by gasight, and'all of their gowns
for evening wear are rich with metallic
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27
Double Vaccination imperative

THE experiences Of the national French
/ school authorities with smallpox. es-
pecially in the Midi. where the disease
is fairly prevalent, even in the twentieth
century, has proved that to be vaccinated
once in early childhood does not confer
immunity for a long time. In fact, Dr.
Pol Serriere of the corps in charge of in
vestigatin2 the matter for the French
government has himself successfully vac
cinated hundreds of children who already
bore the scar of previous vaccination.
1t is claimed that the earlier the vac
cination period the sooner the protection
wears off. 1t seems that in many cases
the protection afforded by early vaccina-
ton wears off in two years that it fire.
quently wears off in four years time. and
that after eight years child is no longer
unable to take smallpox. but is perfectly
liable to fall a prey to the epidemic.
In the United States smallpox has been
pushed into SO small place as a dan
gerous epidemic even in southern cities.
that compulsory vaccination is not re-
sorted to unless one or more cases OF
smallpox in some especial city alarms
temporarily the health guardians of the
population
But for such persons and for school
important to note that vaccination usual
ly wears off in ten years time, even in
adults. All persons venturing into dis
tricts where smallpox is frequent should.
as a matter of common sense, be revac-
cinated If their last scar is over five
years old.
In epidemic it should not be sufficient
for school authorities merely to ascertain
that child over ten years has been vac
cinated once. Unless the scar is evident
ly comparatively fresh indicating an age
not exceeding three or five wears. all chill
dren over ten should be made to submit
to revaccination DR.. Serriere has re-
ported to the national French school au-
thorities that out of lo0 he succeeded in
revaccinating 81 cases of the sort mem
toned last. Had these children been eX-
posed to a virulent smallpox infection
they would have yielded to the disease.
If eiderdown baby blankets are left
outdoors in the rain on grass they
will get clean without becoming lumpy.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27
I urning a Muff Into a Hat

steel cabochon. The muff matching TINS
hat is of the old blue velvet. shirred over
cords so heavy that they are really ropes,
bands of the soft gray fur being SET
around the openings at the side OF the
muff. Another effective set of this sort
includes bottle-green velvet turoan ana
muff trimmed with black lyn%-the fur
being taken from a rug muH OF last sea
SON now out of date.
The white fox fur turbans are exquisite
" Iovely-on the right women. Nobody
who has not a fiawless skin will wear a
white hat in the daylight. By artihclal
light these white hats are nearly ai"aHs
Incoming. and on dark-eyed women they
are enhancing.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27
90 Season -
ZZABQR4ZEZ RZZZZZzzlxS

embroiderfes. Their famous Anne of Aus
tria gown has been copied by several
American dressmakers with good success.
Over this gown of coral and silver shot
metallic gauZe hangs a tunic of coarse
gold net weighted with silver lace. Sill
Yer lace also edges the low decolletage
and under the net tunic about the waist
of the metallic gown beneath. is a grdle
of sky blue velvet. The foot of the skirt
is slashed up at intervals to show an
under petticoat of this sky blue color
With this gown the great conturiers sent
home a couture ornament in the form of
a fiat bandeau set with sunken turquoises
and coral cabochons
Black chiffon over silver is combna-
ton favored by many of the best dress
makers. and this combination is especial
ly distinguished on the woman with gray
or white hair. A touch of chantilly lace
laid over white chiffon makes these black
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27
RUSSIAN
Turban with Dull Gold Ornament

with soft panne and mirror velvets in deli
cate shades. These. seal and velvet tur-
banS are draped round and round in what
some of the milliners term Hindu fash
ion; others the De Stael style. and still
others insist is a reproduction of the tur-
ban worn by Marie Antoinette in Nine.
lie Bruins portrait of the unfortunate
queen with the dauphin and dauphine.
A dMectable theater toque by Aphon-
sine in this draped style has a brim of
Sealskin and crown of rOSecolored vel
vet. a big pink cameo, set in dull gilt,
nesting against the dark fur at one side
A charming sealskin turban. shown today
has a crown of pale blue velvet. the clus-
ter of ostrich tips falling over one side
being in the same delicate blue color. 4
neck ruff of pleated net in light blue and
brown shades emphasizes the colors in the
turban.
No velvet appears in the crown of the
typical Russian hat, and very little trim
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27

ming of any sort is used. the handsome
fur in itself being quite distinguished
enough. These Russian hats are ponder
Gus in size and in addition to their gen.
erous circumference they fit far down over
the head. showing little. If any. Of the
couture beneath. For this reason they
not becoming-if smarter than the
smaller fur hat which used 10 rest among
the waves of pretty hair instead of oblit-
Grating them completely. However. any
thing that is smart in millinery 10 more
pleasing than an antiquated style. no mat
ter how becoming; SO the big. eclipsing
turbanS reign supreme this winter.
The hardressers, en- PEASANT. are going
to reap a bountiful harvest next spring;
for these heavy, huge fur hats are ex-
tremely bad for the hair heating the scalp
and keeping all life-giving ventilation
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27

bans have vivid scarlet crOwns--the scarlet
note being strongly evident in millinery
now. On other turbans the now familiar
and always beautiful bleu Roi is used.
Burgundy, deep wine red. and RebouX-
or bottle-green are colors that are espe-
cially rich in the new millinery velvets:
and these colors. used in combination with
the fur brims, are immensely becoming.
Examine one of these Paris ''turbans'
carefully and you will find that it's basis
is the hard-worked and we'll beloved
mushroom. A steep brimmed mushroom
shape of buckram scoops down over the
hair and the fur band, backed by crino-
line, is set upright on the edge of this
brim. the underside of the brim being
faced with dark silk to match the fur or
with velvet like the big, draped crown.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27

the chenille and ribbosene trimmings are
much the fad in Paris now on smart aft
ernoon costumes.
Gilt when used unveiled is of the new
furnished or rusty" character, and these
dull gilt trimmings are studded with ORR
ental-looking stones.
Some very beautiful new trimmings are
illustrated One Of the landings shows
a claire de la lune pattern on fine brussels
net and the other an embroidered pattern
done in shaded blue silks on silver net
ground The other photograph shows the
extravagant use of trimming this season.
The gown is of black chiffon over white
satin, a heavy border Of lacy emhroid-
cry edging tunic and bodice. The yoke
is of black chantilly over f1esh-colored
chiffon, high collar of pet bead strands
finishing the neck. The ornaments are
of silver thread studded with gun metal.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27

luckily for the woman who must
economic this winter. furs are used
- in dozens of ways that make the
reincarnatlng of old muffs and Ooas sim
ply pastime work for clever fingers. Fur
is omnipresent. 1t is used not only a
hat trimming, but as border trimming
for every dress fabric from chiffon to
velvet. And the big hat trimmed with d
band of fur and a huge rose is quite as
costly plumed model-and deal easier
for the limited pocketbook to command.
If this fur-trimmed hat be matched
by velvet muff bordered with the same
pelt one may rest assured that the cos
tune is the grand chic, French
women say, for restaurant and theater
wear muff and hat Of this sort are
shown, the fur in this instance being seal
Ipson-a new brown and putty colored
peIt which is marked something like cnln-
chilla. AS a background for this Epson
fur brown velvet hat in modish shape
was selected-the shape of the nat, OF
course being the secret of smartness IN
such simple model. Brown velvet oil
the same shade was used for the mum
and the ornaments on hat and muf are
of gold cord and very dark brown velvet.
The same idea could be carried out with
chinchilla mink. fox or any fur USED
in a scarf and muff now out of date IN
shape. A stunning restaurant hat and
muff have been made from gray Squlrrei
and old blue velvet, the huge velvet tur-
ban having a '-shanter crown which
droops in a point over one side of the
squirrel :brim and is caught with Dig
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27
Household Notes.

EMBROIDERY can be cleaned by run
l. bling the surface with a piece of
bread a day old. Use a small piece with
the crust still on it. and then throw away
as soon as soiled.
Vaseline is useful, but it will leave a
stain that is hard to get out. Wash the
goods hrst in warm water and soap. then
few drops of chlorinated soda rubbed
on the spots will cause them to disappear.
The Paris idea of a gown as straight
and as stiff as a pipestem has failed I"
find favor on this die Of the water,
and for once American women are fol-
lowing their own ideas. the result being
fuller and more graceful skirts.
Chenille has returned to favor as
trimming.
distorted Nothing justifies this. Niolets
should be fastened either in the belt.
little to the side of the front. or in front
at the waist line. Occasionally they are
pretty at the side of the front at the
bust line. but this only when there is much
trimming of the gown and the bunch IS
not made to appear as an eXcrescence.
Gardeuias should be treated in the same
way as yiolets Sometimes a long spray
of them is pinned On, making variety to
the round. fiat punches. Lilies of the val
ley-and. indeed all small fiowers-may
safely be placed in the fashion described
above. ROSANNA o1HO LEN
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27

The crown should not be hard to make.
provided plenty of velvet is supplied for
generous shirrings and twistings The
material may be draped toward one side
of the turban and finished with big bow.
Is illustrated: or it may be shirred on
cords all around the edge of the crown
and arranged to slope upward several
inches higher toward the back-a fad in
millinery just now.
In evening millinery-and, mind you. fur
turbans are quite as correct for gasight
use as for the street when rightly con-
structed-the fur is not used by itself, but
is combined with velvet or with chiffon
laid over metallic cloth of some sort. AL
phonsine. who is celebrated for delightful
corrections in theater headgear, is using
much sealskin this. winter in combina ton
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27

from the tresses. But there is something
captivatingly becoming about big,
furry hat-especially if it be accompanied
by huge fur muff to hold beneath ones
chin-that few women will stop a moment
to consider hygienic questions when trying
ii on.
The Russian turban in the photograph
is trimmed with an oddly shaped flower
made of the now ultra-smart furnished
gold tissue. There is an amusing story
going the rounds that these extravagantly
fashionable furnished trimmings were
made up by French flower manufacturers.
at their wits end because of the increased
tariff rates on artificial flowers. from left
over gold cloth. rusty and dulled. Be that
as it may. the furnished effects are vastly
smarter this season than brand new, tin
sci brightness.
These dull gold trimmings are much used
with sealskin, the bronze tones of the me-
tallic stuff blending well with the soft seal
color. A clever tricorne is shown among
the photographs for today's page, this
tricorne being covered. brim and crown,
with fine quality of sealskin, the under
facing of the brim being of the same fur.
Around the edge of the brim goes a line of
dull gold braid and the ornament at the
side is of antique gold filigree, with to-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27

s the season pro-
crosses hats grow
more b e C O m ! n z.
This is the inevita :
BILE rule and one
very easily explain
ed. During the
early days, when
new millinery is be-
ing exhibited, no
body's mind Is def
initely made up, for
nobody knows ex-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27

actly what styles are gong 10 De. lnefe-
fore the chief requirement of an early fall
or spring hat is smartness, becomngness
being a secondary consideration. Later
on when fashions are fully established.
individual preferences and tastes may be
consulted and individual judgment exer-
cised. One then selects from the garden
of styles that particular specimen which
one deems most appropriate for ones own
personal type. with the result that the
midseason hat is usually both chic and
becoming.
Since horse show week fur hats have
been strenuously elbowing the earlier
models trimmed with plumes and al
grettes. Some of the new hats combine
fur and feathers in an extreme Of luxury
that almost takes the breath away: for
either one of these trimmings represents a
substantial amount of expenditure. The
InillinerS. however, seem to have taken
he bit in their teeth, az far as prices are
concerned, and are now adding insult to
injury i'm the matter of feathers heaped
upon fur.
An exquisite hat worn in one OF the
boxes at the opening performance of the
New Theater earlier in the MONTH is
graceful cavalier shape of silver gray
MORE silk. had around the crown a broad
band of chinchilla fur and over the rolled
up brim tumbed three splendid willow
pIumes in. pale blue. The cost of such a
hat may be imagined when one renem-
bers the price of even little strip of
chinchilla fur and is also familiar with
the expensiveness of hand-knotted willow
plumes in delicate shades.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27

skunk is the most fashionable millinery
pelt in Paris just now, brown furs show
ing a tendency to forge ahead of the long
popular black lynx and fox. The modsh
French turban has a velvet crown rising
above the fur brim. and often there is a
huge muff of the velvet and fur to match,
the neckpiece being entirely of the fur.
\ very chic fur and velvet turban by
Charlotte is illustrated. this turban hav-
ing skunk brim and full draped crown
of linden green-the new greenish tan
shade which is extravagantly fashionable
in Paris just now, and which is called by
an artist-couturier 1.-The temperamental
COLOR Some Of these -brimmed tur-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27

PNLESS one can glitter and CLEAN
one might as well stay at home
nowadays. like Cind erel l a
among her cinders. for of what
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1909-11-27

Chenille has returned to favor as q
trimming.
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1909-07-02

1t. Before / had taken one bottle /
was better, and now am completely
cured. LENA V. HENRY, Route No.
3, Adrian, Ga.
Why will women take chances with
an operation or drag out a sickly,
half-hearted existence, missing three
fourths of the JOY of living, when they
can find health in Lydia E. Pinkham's
Vegetable Compound?
For thirty years 1t has been the
standard remedy for female ills, and
has cured thousands of women who
have been troubled with such all
ments as displacements, inflammation,
liberation, fibroid tumors, Irregular
ties, periodic pains, backache, indigeS-
ton, and nervous prostration.
If you have the slightest doubt
that Lydia Il. Pinkham's Vege-
table Compound will help you,
write to Mrs. Pinkham at Lynn,
Mass, for advice. Your letter
will be absolutely confidential,
and the advice free.
The Madison daily leader. [volume] (Madison, S.D.) 1890-current, 1909-07-02

B. Harnett, counsel for Adolph Segal.
There were fourteen counts In the
indictments
The indictments charge conspiracy
in restraint of trade end violation of
the Sherman antitrust law The de
PENDANTS VIII answer to the indict-
ments In court next Tuesday
The section of the law under which
the indictments were found provides
as penalties a fine of not more than
$4,000 or imprisonment for not more
than one year. or both, In the case of
the individuals and fine of not more
than $4,000 in tho case of a corpora
tion. The accused men are all prom
inent In financial circles
Events Leading to indictments.
The thread Of events leading up to
the indictments may be traced back
to 1896, when Adolph Segal of Phila.
delphia sold to the American Sugar
Refining company a sugar refinery
which he had built and for time op
Grated at Camden, N. ]. Some years
later Segal took over the old Penn
sylyania Sugar Refining company OF
Philadelphia. which had suspended
business in 1895. BY 1903 Segal had