The Wenatchee daily world. [volume] (Wenatchee, Wash.) 1905-1971, 1909-09-13

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New York, Sept. 13.-Never were
styles more unsettled and never did
the designers and makers of dresses
have more freedom to display their
inventive genius than at the present
time The features which stand
forth, however, amid this bewildering
variety of styles and effects are the
overskirt, the separate bodice, the
high crown hat, the eXtravagantly
long waistline AMI the pannier. These
features epitomize the fashion news
from Paris for fall and winter styles.
The return of the overskirt should
be welcomed by the textile manufac-
turers as well as the consumers. The
use of overskirts means the use Of
more material in dresses, but it also
gives women an opportunity to dress
becomingly, as overskirts are invari-
ably becoming to nearly every wo-
man. A clever hand can arrange
folds cunningly so as to disguise fig
ure defects and reveal beautiful lines
and for some reason or other the
overskirt almost always gives a
jaunty, youthful effect to skirt of
walking length.
Where overskirts are not express
ly provided, they are suggested by
the cut of the skirt or the manner
of trimming, sometimes the deep hip
yoke extending down over the pleated
fiounce in deep points to give tunic
effect Many of the separate skirts
in the reaiy-to-wear costumes are
made in this way, the tunic closing
at one side of the front under row
Of fancy buttons. This makes very
graceful walking skirt and the model
is sure to be a great favorite.
A significant evidence of a new
era in dress is the shorter skirt,
which is now seen on quite dressy
toilettes for afternoon wear. The
limp, scant, trailing directOire skirt
is practically a thing of the past,
for which due thanks should be given
to the makers of fashion. There is
clearly a tendency to go to the other
extreme and attempts are being made
to introduce the very wide skirt,
info 10 c
boldly thrown out a challenge to the
followers of the skin-fitting style by
producing a skirt many yards around
and shirred at the waist line to a
deeply pointed bodice. This sweep
ing skirt is trimmed all the way
around above the hem with huge
cartwheels, made of the material
drawn over cords. They remind one
of the voluminous skirts with these
detached trimmings which were worn
in VIGIL war days.
Among the most appropriate gowns
for the college girl is that of the
lingerie guimpe. Since the shirt
waist has been dropped to some ex-
tent, as usual at this time of the
year, or has been ranked as a useful
garment only and has ceased to claim
attention as jressy affair, the
guimpe has gained in favor. 1t is,
indeed, the outcome of the all-in-
one frock. The devotee of the clean
ly lingerie blouse has not found it
possible to go over to the entire
dress of silk, of wool, or even of I'M
washable linen with any degree Of
warmth or enthusiasm. She natural
ly demands seem washable substitute
in at least the collar and yoke.
Some women consider the guimpe
more economical than the shirtwaist,
because of the saving in the laundry
bills, but it is doubtful whether the
guimpe habit is any less expensive,
when it is considered that numerous
guimpes are necessary for one frock
and that much greater care is re-
quired in their laundering. But,
after all, guimpes will be extensively
worn by college girls during the
coming season, particularly with
gowns for more dressy occasions.
The early autumn materials this
season show an unusual number OF
attractive things for the outing cos
tune, thanks to the mOdishness of
the rough surfaced mollens for fall
street wear, and very handsome color
combinations enter into some of the
soft, rough, mixed stuffs. One line
of materials of this order, with wide,
loose, diagonal weave, attracted par