The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1908-09-04
TIE Tailored ShirtWaiSt and the Street
Suits==="Jackie" Waists for Those Who
Favor Nautical EffeCts===Waist Helps
for the Business WOn7an=BeIfS.

sible front opening. Instead OF pleats
bands of bold openwork embroidery
are employed vertically on fronts and
back or the blouse is generously en-
broidered in self-coored soutache.
This makes it infinitely more orna-
mental than the strictly tailored gar
ment of less flexible material and it is
perfectly adapted to even midwinter
weather, as a. thick high-necked and
long-sleeved underwaist may be worn
beneath it without any chance of be-
ing detected.
TAILORED WAIST BELTS.
Before leaving the topic of strictly
tailored and utility waists designed to
accompany natty short skirts it may
be stated that the correct belt should
be severely plain.
Woven cotton beltings come in en-
broidered effects in every imaginable
color, with white or black and in
broad or medium width. There are
all-silk beltings in similar effects as
well as those in silk elastic, but the
are the MORE silk beltings. These
come by the yard and their ends need
only be slipped through the buckles,
of which every woman should nave
several sets-black, white and silver
or gilt metal.
THE BUSINESS WOMAN'S BLOUSE.
Women who go early to business and
must necessarily dress hurriedly are
hailing with delight new waist which
opens in front and is guiltless of the
omnipresent box pleat and button fas-
tening. These are being made up in
pongee, mohair, soft silk and light
weight French flannel and are so sim
pie that even an amateur may hope to
turn out a satisfactory specimen. The
narrow piped pleats crossing the
, shoulder are stitched down fatty, and
into the small arm size, which is also
piped, and the long sleeve, with just
a suggestion of fulness at the top and
close fitting at the wrist, is finished
with narrow turnback cuff. The
fronts, ornamented with buttons and
cord loops, close invisibly with snap
fasteners and the plain standing collar
is freshened daily with narrow en-
broidered muslin turnover.
STRIPED MATERIALS SMART.
In the shops at this season are to be
picked up an infinite variety of rem
nants, from which may be evolved ex-
ceedingly attractive-looking separate
waists which will serve for any num-
Der Of occasions when it is not >conve-
nient to wear an elaborate costume
and a strictly tailored suit and waist
: would be out of the question. Some
| of these fabrics are in white and deli
cate shades of blue and rose, with fin
, satin stripes Of self-color. Often these
materials are so wide that two yards
will make a back-closing blouse, witt
many fine pleats forming a yoke
across the shoulders onto which may
be set a pointed or square lace yoke
bordered with plain satin or velvet rib
, bon, and finished with a high stool
collar. The sleeve may be of the leg
o'-mutton or puff order, of seven-eighti
length, shirred into the armsize anC
finished below the elbow with Val
: Dyke cuffs Of lace, ribbon bound Afte
the waist is completed the silk should
be cut away from beneath the lac,
trimming the yoke, collar and sleeves
as the semitransparent effect will adj
immeasurably to its dressy appear
: ance.
THE POMPADOUR FAD.
The fancy for lowered material
which has prevailed during the sum
: mer still extends to the separate waist