davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-29
Marriage Licenses.

Marriage licenses have been issued to
the following:
Robert Gidney and Jamie Mcdowell.
Joseph 0. Lawrence and Rebecca
White.
ley.
Warren E. Sewell and Marie S. Weber,
both of Baltimore. Md.
Michale J. Hederson and Katharine En-
right.
Albert c. Barron and Ruth Coats.
Louis D. Etter and Lillian G. Eddy.
John Mccarthy and Bridget T. Reed.
Walter Willis and Lavinia Gaskins.
Richard r. Jones and LESSEE NJ. Brown.
Herbert F. Smith and Mayme +. Brown.
Charles A. Toepfer and Fannie NJ. LIE
Merle.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-29
will reside at the kanawha. on Dunbar
ton avenue. after October 1.

Mrs. Charles =. Stone and family have
returned to their residence in Massachu-
sets avenue from their summer home in
Mifflintown. Pa. making the trip in their
automobile by way of Harrisburg and
Gettysburg.
a wedding in which Detroit society is
greatly interested will be that tomorrow
of Mrs. Edith ST anton Field and Mr.. John
S. Newberry. Mrs Field will be unat-
tended, while Mr.. Victor Barnes of Brook
lyn n. V. will assist as best man. Rev
Albert H. Barr of the Jefferson Avenue
Presbyterian Church and Rev. William ID
Maxon. DID,. of Christ Church will per-
form the marriage ceremony at high noon
at the residence of the brides parents
Mr.. and Mrs Alexander NJ. Stanton. Or
their return from wedding journey. Mr.
and Mrs. Newberry will reside at ~:
Jefferson avenue The bridegroom Is the
brother OF the assistant secretary of the
navy.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-29
Babe smothered in Folding Bed.

CHICAGO. September 29-Edward koz-
lowski. ten months old. of "a Kingsbury
street. the youngest Of family OF sew
eral children. was accidentally smothered
to death yesterday in a folding bed. The
child was placed in the bed and covered
with q blanket A short time later his
mother entered the room and found that
the bed had been closed. She opened il
to find the child smothered to death.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-29

CLARNOE. On Sunday. september 1:S'>.
EDWARD ESSEX. son OF Gertrude Fawccit
and the late Frank A. Clarvoe OF :26 H.
street northeast.
northwest. Wednesday, September 30. AT II
Interment, private, at Falls Church,
ELDREDGE. On September IS. 1905. at SIS
SON OF Mary and the late u. W. Eldredge.
Funeral services at Gunton- Temple Church. l4th
and r streets Thursday. October l, at : pm :
HowIsoN. Passed away september 90. 1908.
At her residepss 50 street sout IN Samuel sf
Howison. in her sixtieth year.
Funeral from Fifth Baptist Church. street $
1, at go pm.
Jewell. Anne Arundel county. Nd. WIN.
SHIP FOWLER PARKER, infant son OF
Funeral f from j. a Howard TabIer's parors. IIol
II street northwest Interment Congress
sionaI cemetery 3 O'Clock pm. today.
POTTER. On Monday. September Is. 1905 at
the residence Of Mrs Anne ID he nny,, Mc'
wife of John Potter
REQUIEM high mass at % O'clock wea anr;an,
Church. Interment at Mount oiyet cemetery.
beloved husband of Alice Richardson ,nce
Pumphreyl.
One by one my hopes grow brighter
AS near the shining shore,
For I know across the river
Wait the loved ones gone before.
Funeral from his late residence. 1917 1 street
southeast, Thursday October l, at pm
Relatives and friends invited To attend
ROMAINE. On Tuesday. September % 1905 . at
northwest GRACE o'REILLY. widow of the
late william II. Romano. in the forty-sevenih
Notice Of funeral hereafter. Baltimore papers
please copy.)
ROSS. Departed this life Tuesday. Septem-
her % 1908. at $40 am, at his residenec'
the beloved husband Of Laura TAYLOR Ross:
father OF zeta Ross Johnson and brother OF
Funeral Thursday October 1. at IL O'clock
sharp. from Plymouth Congregational Church.
vited to attend. (Aiexandria papers please
copy
at IL am. at his residence. 80 Missouri
s avenue e, Raibery nee Moore
Notice OF funeral hereafter
SHAW of r. Pierce street northwest will he
removed from the vault at Harmony cemc-
terry for burial at = pun. "Wednesday, Septem-
Der 80. 1905.
In Memoriam.
HIGGINS Tn remembrance OF grandmother.
who died one year ago today september %
Often do We stop and look back
To the day. one year ago.
And think OF her pains and srferinSs
That we then did not know
BY HER GRANDCHILDREN.
IOHMAE In sad and loving remembrance OF
our dear daughter and sister. NELLIE Rl II
ARDSON LOHMAR. who departed this ITO
three years ago today, September -. 1910:
By THE FAMILY
MAHORNEY In sad hut loving memory "t or
dear wife and mother. MARGARET T. MN-
IIORNEY. who departed TINS IKE TWO seatS
ago today September -, 1905
God called her home. IL was His WILL
Rut in our hearts we love her sui;
Her memory is dear today
As il WAS the hour She passed away,
Two years ago today
Ry HER LOVING HUSBAND AND CHlLDhth
Anniversary mass at st. Aloysius Church
NORFII In sad but loving remembrance of
our dear daughter sister ard atInt. h,A
NORELL. who departed this lie twenty
years ago today.
Gone but not forgotten.
RY HER MOTHER, DAUGHTER AND NIECE.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-29

Judge George W. Atkinson has returned
to this city from his West Virginia home
and Mrs. Atkinson will come later.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-29

Mrs Robert w. Allen has taken ar
apartment at the Albemarle and has with
her her daughters, Mrs Conrad E. Koer.
per and Miss Roberta Allen
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-29

Miss Annie NJ. O'NeilI and Mr. Philip T
Wood were quietly married yesterda,
afternoon at the Holy Name Church b,
the Rev. Father Kervick. The bride wa
becomingly attired in a cream serge suit
with hat to match. After the ceremon,
Mr.. and Mrs. Wood left for a short tril
to Niagara Falls. On their return the,
will be at home to their friends at 213
II street northwest.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-29
DIED.

CLARvOE. On Sunday. September 81. 1905,
EDWARD ESSEN. OF Gertrude Fawccit
and the late Frank A. Claryoe OF 226 Il
street northeast.
Funeral from Trinity Church. 3D. and G streets
northwest. Wednesday. September 30. nj II
am. Interment, private, at Falls Church,
Va.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-29

Mrs Mary A. Hendley. :;S street
northwest has returned, and will be al
home. as usual on the first and second
Mondays after > o'clock.
Mr. and Mrs. Waldo Campbell Hubs
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-29

A reception Is to be given to the dele
gates and members of the international
tuberculosis congress by Mrs. Gardiner
Greene Hubbard at her country residence
on Woodley lane from to q Wednesday
afternoon. Buses will meet the Chevy
Chase cars at Cathedral avenue to take
the guests to Mrs. Hubbard's grounds.
1t is hoped that the weather will permit
the guests to enjoy the extensive gardens
at Twin Oaks.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-29
Hotel Arrivals.

Ralelgh-T. j. Sinclair Philadelphia:
5 Y. Upper. Atlanta, Ga; F.. Cummings,
West Virginia.: ii. G. Ralston. Charlotts-
vile. Va: J. VI. Gillispie. Philadelphia.
ArIingtOn-David Lindsay. New York;
r. a. Reeves, Toronto. Canada; J. H.
Lowell, New York; J. ID. Lehoy .
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-29
MARRIED.

HCBER-MANSFIELD. On "Wednesday. August
L. 1905. by Rev r. W. Moore. pastor OF
Second Baptist Church. Petersburg. Va. NJ
his residence. CHARLES K. HCBER or
Richmond Va. formerly OF this city. and
MOLIIE VIRGINIA MANSFIELD OF Charlie
ton s c
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-12-13

After these corrections have been made seams
are stitched the hastings taken out,
either overcast bound. placket is finished and
the band is made and put
Before speaking of getting the right length it may
be or some assistance to explain what where a
figure Is larger on side than the other A person
may not be noticeably larger hip than the
other and yet there may be enough of difference lin
the size of one hip to make the skirt pull of to
SIDE For IT is by no means all that is necessary to
have the skirt large enough to go around If there il
difference the sides
If the figure as though there were difference
take the hip measure from the middle of front to
the middle of the back, first side and then on
the other, writing each and care
fully stating to which side it belongs (say it is
for nine gored skirt take the three side cores,
If. as frequently happens. hip inch or an inch
ana nalI larger than the other. divide the amount
between the three side cores. adding little to the
eored edge of each at the hip line till necessary
amount is disposed Of
In order to do this it may.b be necessary paste
small piece OF paper each of these
original and altered lines distinctly marked
for the left and right sides, as the case may be- In
cutting these cores there generally
at one time) 1t is we'll to them both for the
larger measure, and mark the seams for
two sides as they should be- This should do away
with the necessity for rehttng the figure. The
more one learns to do accurate measuring basting
the less altering and fitting will necessary and
is then that work Is real satisfaction and pleasure
10 get the right lengths have the skirt right side
OUT ana pin the skirt together at the
responding seams exactly together. which makes
the middle front gore have fold through the center
Lay the sArt on table Ca dining room table is good
ana PIN the corresponding together at the bottom
being sure that the part is Meas
ure the desired lengths from the bottom of the band
in the middle front over the hips the middle
of the back. sssF & ess..
II there is difference in the lengths over the hips
put pins In marking the right and left sides they
shouo De. II is possible with practice to draw prac
tcally perfect line around the bottom connecting the
length marks so that alteration will be necessary
An easy way to do this is to have the bottom the
skir away from you lies the table, and resting
the elbow on the table, try draw line connecting
the oHerent points. which is gradual
nolceape at any point Looking at edge in the
manner suggested it easier to imperfection
in it. The skirt is then turned so that the other side
as on Top and the points connected in the way
sun holding the edge away from you, the
tom up on the marked line and try After is
customer to doing this accurately true line be
mace around the bottom IN few minutes time and
lnink what saving labor and fatigue it is When
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-12-13

stand on both feet. Women who have high
abdomen are otherwise decidedly of the normal
lines should have pattern for them by per-
son who thoroughly understands drafting pattern
for figure of this kind differs materially from the
patterns which sold ordinarily for the normal
figure.
If a person does not have these difficulties con-
tend with Of the reliable patterns should be all
right If waist and hip do correspond
ones ii is guided by size
of the hip. material chosen which
have and down to contend with then the pattern
directions carefully followed the way
lay each piece the goods
Before laying the pattern the cloth the
lengths to whether they long short, are
right and compare the waist and hip measures with
Lay all the pieces before cutting any
out 1T pays to learn to be accurate and taking the
proper pains along will be found to be time
in the
Before removing the pattern mark the waist and
lines with chalk tracing wheel taor's acks'
In gored skirts bias and straight edge almost
always come together, and in basting the to-
gether the bias edge should always held top
in other words next to In order to do this 1T will
be to haste the seams on one side of the
skirt from the bottom UP, and the other from
the top down ~.
Beginning with the gore, first side
gore for the right side of the skirt and pin it to the
front gore exactly seam lines first having the
the top down. of removing the pins
to them. Proceed in the manner with the rest
of the for the right side skirt then start
again with the front taking the first side gore
for the left side and beginning at the top pin the
seam exactly in the seam lines, first having the waist
line meet. then beginning at the bottom, haste the
seam together from the bottom to the top a -
This allows the holding of the gored edge top
and at the time nsures the cores meeting the
waist line The for taking this trouble that
bias edge stretches easily much less danger
OF stretching where the bias edge is held
The skirt should be pinned to band, accurately,
and tried And right here is point to remember
When trying pin the band together that 1t meets
and Is held IN place as truly as though 1t had the
hooks and eyes, for II this is not done. there
in trying to tell how 1t packet must be fas-
tened too and if there inverted plas each side of
the back they, too, must be pinned in place S.
II the skirt is too tight over the hips,
seams must be let out on each SIDE beginning little
below the hip line and gradually extending altera-
ton to the waist If the fault lies in it's being too
large, make the alterations in same sears;
possibly the front will taking in a little
The alterations at the waist line any are necessary
made in the same manner
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-12-13

the length is satisfactory the bottom is cut off seams
length below the finishing line, overcasted and fitted
Several good examples of the present styles in
skirts shown on this One gored. made
of two toned striped mohair in brown but
the left side of front entire length
of the skirt Another is five gored skirt made with
habit back the material being shadow striped
blue serge
This is most attractively trimmed with a two inch
band Of black satin put in the front sim
ulate panel. The fastening is in the back 1t is
sometimes although always necessary in five
to put dart in the hips. and when this is done
the dart should be put in SO that the effect on the
figure is that of straight line 1t must not slant at
the bottom too far towards either the front or the
back.
The usual and or five inches
long, the way put 1T is to take the
necessary in the middle of the side at the
waist then, five inches below the wastline, the
middle of the width of the hip-rin the. dart on to
nothing at this point The back edge of the being
slanted out, wider it towards the bottom, and
the ending in the middle of the hip width gives
the the properly straight effect the figure. al
though by actual measurement 1t does slant towards
the back
skirt the order OF the directors princesse was
beautiful made of deep wine coored henrietta CLOTH
combined with soft liberty satin in the fan plaits
There is foundation skirt and on this plating
is outside (Which is IN three pieces)
is made, to putting the trimming on There is
short boned girdle which has to be fitted separately
this the foundation is mounted; then the outside
is fastened in place and the girde finished There
fan plating each side of the skirt If
cerred For of the short skirts about four yards
and half. fortyfour inches wide necessary. and
should be possible to get good material for SIPS or
not over sf-5b yard. go -.
.,
Many different kinds of faced cloth employed
in for day including that are striped
and checked. with result which is exceedingly effect
ive 1t is In plain satin faced cloth that gown is
made. the color chosen being soft shade best de-
scribed dark heliotrope althc-igh it is known by
other and more fanciful names This gown shows one
Of the --latest drectoire overskrts made prncesse
comparatively short front, although at the
back the long folds nngle with the graceful Of
the trained underskir Down the front of this
there IS wide panel of silk net in the same
shade dark helotrope, arranged over a satin
foundation and closely embroidered with beautiful
floral design worked In bright silks in shades Of
heliotrope
This exquisite embroidery is repeated form
of wide band upon the skirt and also under
the where the bodice is cut out in pinafore shape
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-12-13

~ II
" 1 less a great many times when separate
II skirt, with either a tailored n
pretty blouse, exactly thing
IG(S(E1t needs. good many Of the exaggera-
tSlyzS&9I tons which appeared the first Of the
have been modified. that the
present styles really graceful and becoming Much
said about the passing Of the plated skirt, but
they still worn and doubtless will continue
But naturally variations in the different styles
introduced and that is what happened
this winter. Where the skirts plated all around
they often plated in groups, this
should make them little easier handle and make
great many gored models seen, the most popu-
being from eleven Generally speaking, the
skirts be sheath fitting the hips; but that by
no means should be interpreted to mean that they
should be fitted closely that there look
One point where this years skirts differ from last is
hips the lines
strsighter, making skirt around
bottom than formerly.
For the house or any dressy occasion skirt should
made with train. and surely there IS nothing
graceful than trained skirt when at the right
time Two and three piece skirts particularly
graceful when made with train as are also the one
piece circular ones. The long skirts often
untrmmed than trimmed having the bottom finished
with deep hand hemmed facing. One other feat
OF this is the high waist line and this is
by confined to the long skirt but is
of the smartest street costumes.
Draperes are not seen as often on the short as on
long skirts. but the short skirts trimmed
sometimes with buttons and bands Of the material
or put simulate tunic drapery. Mohair
brantine panama serge. cheviot and plaid woolens
are all suitable for separate skirts. the mohars
shadow stripe check chevron stripe
especially good looking.
Separate long skirts should be made softer
and more clingng tesiaI such satin voile
cashmere or chiffon these long skirts
blouse matching the skirt color, is the proper
thing: while tailored linen flannel shirtvaists
in white and other colors much, with short
ssirts kind Of a fancy worn,
* will be better have il match the skirt color.
There many who make blouses and
successfully who will not attempt the making
srtss feeling that these latter are entirely beyond
their skill that plain gored skirts are much
worn It will be a good time for these women to
get accustomed making their skirts; these
narrow gored skirts easiest handle keep
their shape the best
In order have skirt hang well and not poke
at the bottom in is all, to
stand properly, thing which women fail
The chest must be held and the abdomen in
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-12-13

Broad insertions of the same embroidery adorn the
close fitting sleeves. arranged alternately with
draperies of dark heIotrope satin while upper
part of the bodice is finished with hchu
soft satin. drawn down under band
broidery, which is decorated with
buttons and satin loops. There is a similar trimming
Of loops and buttons on the skirt.
s.
velveteen is having a greater vogue than ever this
and the reason is not far seek,
of the artistic of fabrics it can be dyed in
shades that the richest silk velvet or expensive
wooden fabrics will not take Among the most at
tractive novelties is lovely perwinkle blue
effective by night by day. equally charming
in it's way is the tourterelle" or turtledove n
pinkish shade delicate silver gray some
rich mole shades will make splendid background
rich furs. and there beautiful brown
chestnut shades suitable for outdoor
Among the bright coors there brilliant begonia
pink and some rich reds. while for evening cloaxs.
dresses and tea gowns there are pale shades OF she'll
pink. eggshel blue. primrose yellow white and
cream. all with the soft chiffon finish which makes
them drape gracefully.
other serpentinelilxe traceres de-
fined with silk cord braid than ever in
favor Cor trimming kind material from trans
parent muslin and meshy nets heavy and vel
The most expensive fabrics description are
the fine unduiatins lines running ground
and inermineled with roses and other snowy flowers
wrought in high relief with silk. occasionally dotted
with beads or spangIes.
The latest fad, however is to replace the delicate
soutache by thick cording executed in silk on the
material the ground, and delineate with il
scrolls and arabesques This style certain
" ee -HeAPei0Hceu worker as regards the
best of incasins the cord in the sheath with
any undue stretching and proper manipulation
IN following the nuberess which characterize
the designs suitable for such purpose
Lingerie dresses being or sneerest null
without bit OF lace OF any kind, but covered with a
bold floral design done in white richly raised The
design is massed about the bust waist and hips the
skirt set to the bodice with a beading and sash
wound loosely twice figure but weighted al
the ends This sash in printed silk with the design
massed the ends above deep fringe. The neck and
hem Of the null gown trimmed simply with hem
stitching and tucks. and the short embroidered sleeve
is straight and wide enough to the to
the shoulder. It's hem plain.
The dainty nightgowns with wfSy
Dutch collars and hne embroidery scalIoped and edged
with lace. Down the front from to waist Is a
four inch jabo of lace and embroidery and there
put hecks Of colored ribbon
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-12-13

lille so much is said and written about
the one piece gowns, there are neverthe-
less a great many times when a separate
skirt. worn with either a tailored waist or
some pretty blouse. Is exactly the thing
one needs. A good many of the exaggera
tons which appeared the first Of the
sea son have been modified so that the
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-12-13

The dainty nightgowns made with wfdy
Dutch collars and fine embroidery scalloped edged
with lace Down the front from to waist r. a
four inch jabot of lace and embroidery Here and there
put hecks Of colored ribbon
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-12-13

the length is satisfactory the bottom
length below the finishing line. fitted
bias facing put on