The daily sentinel., 1908-01-09

New York, Jan. 9.-"There is 4
towards boned waists" says
one of the foreign fashion-writers.
At the first thought one sighs with
disgust at the remembrance of the
boned waist of twenty years ago and
the pictures of ladies'. who look like
craved-cut wooden dolls, come before
our eyes. Must We be like these
creatures? But 1 nevery revival of
an old fashion. one sees notifications
and additions which make it more
pleasing. and the knowledge of cut
design and trimming have become an
art such as was not known years ago.
The new waists follow the natural
lines of the figure. Its boned fits
lines of the figure. Its boned lining
fits to nicely. while the outer tapers
into belt placed at the normal
waistline. The draperies of these
waists are the outcome of the sur
plice and fischu and kimono-sleeve
models, and some are arranged in
curving overlapping folds called
"capuchin" after the monkish garb
it originated from.
Some of the three-piece gowns use
this "capuchin" mode as the hollow
curves above the bust leaves space
up to the throat for al ace piece, and
the sleeves something like the kimono
model show lace under-sleeves. Civ
ing the effect of an underwaist of
lace. In these costumes it is impera-
tive that the sloping shoulder effect
be kept.
A costume carrying out these ideas
consisted of a skirt made closely
after the "Paquim" moled, which l
described some weeks ago, and a
waist of the boned order Rem
brandt" a warm tan shade often seen
in the pictures of the great artist of
that name, was the color and crepe
meteor the material used.
The skirt clings closely to the fig
ure. but all strained effects are OBJ
Waited by the soft folds over the
front and back, which are slightly
suggested of the lines of the habit
skirt and makes possible such a
sheath-like skirt.
The lining to the waist is we'll
boned and covered with cream gui-
pure lace. Above this is a bodice of
"capuchin" folds extending across the
bust, with the fulness gathered un-
der the girdle that is part of the
skirt. Each of these folds is out
lined with silver cord, very fine
and strung at intervals with tiny seed
pearls. The sleeves are simply a
series OF folds that extend over the
shoulders from under which extend
those of lace in ''seven-eights"
length. While the skirt is a model
that many women Will eschew and
indeed. It is not becoming to many
women. the waist will be a favorite
model and may be combined with
other modes of skirts, all except the
''trotteur' or Sidewalk" skirt.
The "tunique" skirt Is one that
suits most figures and is particularly
becoming to the short or full figured
woman, and a style that goes well
with the new boned waist. This skirt
is an elegant mode for graceful
shaping, fitting the hips In close.
circular effect, the long, graceful
lines suggest an overskirt. which re-
semblance is emphasized by the con-
the tunic points. A popular design
for a skirt OF this description consists
of a foundation of seven cores, which
is draped with deep circular
piece tunic or overskirt. The open
ings at the side seams of the over
skirt add to the effectiveness of the
style. and short tucks on each side of
tunic to fall in graceful folds. The
folds of the waist used with this
skirt were decorated with tiny mar
row frills of chiffon and the under
WdlSL Was
dress material was of green satin
cloth.
Another pretty combination of ma
terials would be Bordeaux wine-color
China crepe and embroidered filet
lace dyed to match. The points of
the tunic and parts of the waist could
be decorated with pattern done in
fine black soutache braid. Or, II the
dress was of some soft, light colored
silk, its ornamentation could be of
insets of lace done in gold embroid-
cry designs. An admirable Idea would
a violet chiffon taffeta, inset with
cream filet and embroidered in silver
thread A touch of color is much
sought for in all the new tailored
gowns of the more sombre tints. and
when carefully done afford a bright
that may be very becom-
ing. Orange. green, the new blue,
and flame color may all be used for
collar, cuffs, or the bests, but are
krniJa1 QUAR- uytth