davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05
TRIMMINGS FOR FALL AND WINTER

others will be frightened with jet pail
lettes.
Sheer white lingerie blouses will hold
their own throughout the winter. Their
trimmings will be chiefly of muslin en-
broidery landings and all-overs in bold
designs, as these have been found TO
stand laundering quite as well as finer
patterns and are rather more effective
Frequently elaborate colored embroideries
in blue. green, brown and crushed fruit
tints are seen on these thin blouses.
While the magpie blendings are rather
startling in thin fabrics. they are none
the less extremely smart, and for the
woman who can carry off such blouse
one of white batiste trimmed with heavy
bold designs in black will stamp her as
being thoroughly posted on the subject of
fashion.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05

Because Dame Fashion is an consist
ent lady she is putting into her smart
est-looking coats much of the material
of which she is robbins the skirts which
accompany them, for such wraps are not
only exceptionally long, but they are
gradually lengthening, and in he most
irregular manner. 1t is a fOreEoue con-
clusion that if a coat is cut exceedingly
long directly at the back il will be clipped
squarcly across the abbreviated waist line
in front. and if 1t dips sharply in front it
slopes from a short bacn. That every
woman may be fitted with coat TO her
liking there is another model having
long and narrow side forms and tabs.
and eton-fitted back and double breasted
fronts Of corresponding length.
Because the eton back is a bit too OK
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05

ANC1 braldS were never more
popular than at the present time,
when the rage for trimming tai
II lored coat and skirt suits in
stimulation of directoire and en-
pire effects shows itself in the models of
the foremost designers of cloth costumes
OF all braids to be used this season none
is more prominently to the fore than is
Sou:ache, which lends itself so happily
to embroidered effects. 1t is employed in
both black and colors on coats short and
long loose and close fitting, but notably
on the rather fantastic little models worn
with white or neutral-tinted skirts and
designed to dress up an otherwise rather
simple costume. They are of satin. OF
toman silk or fine cloth, and frequently
covered all over with the braidng ara
besques.
In addition 10 soutache being used 10
simulate embroidery it's combined with
braids of various weaves and widths, is
formed into passementerie ornaments, .
military loops and bands and encrusta-
tons upon the satin and silk buttons
and cabochons which play so important
a role in the development of the fash
ions eff the period.
Novelty braids are CT every imaginable
design Some of them closely follow the
effects seen in antique carvings ana
others show openWork in imitation OF en-
broidcry patterns These III navy blue,
myrtle green dark smoke. stone and
mole Srays used in one and TWO
tone effects on tailored suits of the SIM
pier sort. while the directoire garments
are garnished with beautiful hand-em-
broidered designs on flet or brussels
net These latter are often in a variety
Of beautiful and harmonious colors.
Passementerie trimmings are especially
good on separate coats of the more elab-
crate type, ana often are employed i'll
connection with chenille embroideries
which, being done by machine, are not so
costly as the tyro might imagine.
Frnges are especially in demand, not
alone for the sashes and neck Scarfs,
which are snartest when SO finished but
for the bordering of tunic and certain
kinds of evening wraps Of the sort hav-
ing shawl backs and scarcely distinguish
able sleeves. Many of these fringes are
wholly of one tone. others are of black
mingled with tinSel. and a few are all
gilt, but in this event they must be en-
ployed with discretion lest an undesir-
able garish effect be produced.
Gold and silver trimmings are 10 be eX-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05
Fashion Notes
and Novelties

ITO match the simply tailored Eng.
lish mohair or serge street suit
and incidentally to dress ii up
there should DE Queen Elizabeth ruff OF
maline lace or ribbon of precisely the
same hue The material is closely pleated
or shirred and there should be at least
five rows of it attached to a ribbon band
which will fl quite snugly about the
throat The ends are joined by invisible
hooks and there is a short Topped bow or
two long ends attached to the lower edge
of the band if preferred, although many
of the ruches show no ribbon whatever.
new feature Of the ribbon rufus is
narrow pleating of fine white net topping
the ribbon. this having the effect of Apft-
ening the face and also renders the Dark
tint of the accessory more becoming
That there may be no chance of<1nv-
ing an inch of additional bulk at he
wais, lire or the suggestion of aashT4a ak
at that point when the sheath-si,ifteds d-
dectCire gown is worn many womeu5are
making up knickerbockers withNeofset
covers that are cut in one with them.
these garments taking the place of tho
COMBINED waist. underskirt and drawers.
The upper portion is made on precisely
the same lines as are those Of lingerie
materials. but the fullness below the hips.
instead Of fiarpg. is gathered into knee
band. Such contrivances are of satin or
soft silk, but the most practical material
is smooth pongee, which launders as
readily as does batiste or longcloth.
Some of the new sleeveless guimpes
to be worn with one-piece house frocks
are made of white and cream scrim and
embroider red in self and contrasting silk.
having first been stamped with Greek or
floral designs. The collars, which are
high and finished with embroidered
points. are similarly treated, and the ac-
cessory is widely bound all around with
thick ribbon. the better TO hold Ii in
shape. 1t should be long enough to reach
below the bust as il will otherwise draw
up and wrinkle unpleasantly about the
shoulders. Similar guimpes are developed
in all-over muslin embroidery and have
collars Of matching landings.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05

tensively used on high-class evening cos
TUNES, owing chiefly to the vogue of pail
letted nets. which are made up into en-
tire robes or into plastrons, yokes and
sleeves.
Drop ornaments of jet, gold. silver.
pearl and gun metal are employed chiefly
on band trimmings, as the cluster effect
which made them so popular as n deco
ration for skirts and bodices went out OF
vogue with the debut of Greek draper.es.
ANYTHING in the realm of trimmings
more attractive than the autumn laces
and embroideries has not appeared In
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05

The sheath skirt. which created such a
r-to-be-forgotten sensation at the
Grand PriX last June, is quite unlikely
to he worn to any extent in America any
more than it is in Paris, where the best
dressed women do not go in for extremes.
But, while all the split sides OF what
ever skirts of that type are now being
made are modestly filled in with fans of
one material or another, the basic idea
is unquestionably to be economical of
cloth. satin or velvet. as the case may
be. Therefore, the cores are SO sharply
sloped that not an inch of extra space is
allowed to the hips, and scarcely more
from there to the knees, whence the train
widens SO slightly that about the bottom
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05

bring out iridescent shadings by the use
OF the Tosca net bands, which show de-
signs worked in combinations of green
and blue silk.
Black lace landings of various widths
will be used extensively on the satin and
net evening gowns. which are destined to
enjoy so great a vogue during the COM
ing winter They will alike border the
tunc drapings. define the empire waist
lines, trim the bodices and sleeves and
be used entire deuX with net TO form
guimpes and high collars. Some of them
will be soutache or silk encrusted and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05
For the Amateur
Needleworker

* ~, IL. n rs Is III ~ n; n n. NJ iIz% rs - n
TT is quite possible for an amateur
needlewoman to make for herself
L many deIectable little girdles out of
the veriest scraps of silk, provided that
they are fresh and of fashionable hue
One such girdle designed especially for
a slender woman has fitted tafeta lin
ing fully five inches deep, upon which is
mounted a black satin cover laid iii five
shallow tucks This closes at the back
under a row of tiny satin ribbon bows,
and in front is decorated with black and
gold passementerie ornaments and long
tassels. Another girdle, of black satin, is
a straight band three inches wide. closing
in front beneath a flat buckle of satin
covered buckram. twisted about IL rope
fashion. and al each end formed into
double inch-wide fril
Frequently some little accessory which
may be purchased ready made may be
improved by a few deft touches. This
is often the case with shop collar and cum
coat sets of muslin embroidery having
edges finished with points and Scaliops
which lie down too fatty or look stringy
after having been worn. They will IA
once take on a dainty and fresh air II
beneath the machrine-finisiled edges are
run frsllS Of very narrow Naienclennes
lace OF good quality The same treat
ment may be given to The embroidered
muslin pocket handkerchiefs which,
transformed into rabats. are worn WIN
high turnover linen collars.
girls who are not such pro-
no,Inced students or embryo blue stock
ings as to disregard their appearance
take the utmost care of their shoes by
having separate receptacles for each pair.
These are made in the shape OF small
bags divided into two sections, so that
the shoes may not come into contact.
They are bound all around with strong
tape and provided with drawing strings
OF the same fabric. that they may DE
hung I'D as more damage is done to shoes
tina. are placed he!ter-skelter Oh tie floor
or i'm q general shoe box than is general
" supposed. That there may be no time
lost III hunting for a pair OF tan shoes
those of tEa, Tx are kept In brown
Holland bag. white canvas oXfords in
-eceptacles Of similar materia. and white
satin dancing slippers in silk bags of
whatever color is preferred, as they must
Invariably he lined with dark blue. which
keeps the footgear from turning yellow
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05

est of the imported costumes of the tai
iored type are in one-tone combinations
OF two materials. If broadcloth or serge
is employed for both skirt and coat. their
trimmings are certain to be of either
satin or Ottoman silk. When satin is
the chief fabric, broadcloth is used as
a garnishing, and with the ultra fash
ionable Ottoman and rep silks are COM
bined various attractive varieties of
smoothly finished cloth. including silk
cashmere and sati-striped wolfe. Cloth
and satin are applied to velvet, which in
the chiffon weaves will be largely en-
pIoyed. because of its clinging qualities.
for the upbuilding of sheath skirts and
long coats.
Cabochons and Buckles.
When il is remembered that the direc-
toire period was one of great extrava-
gance in jewels as we'll as in dress, it is
not surprising that buttons, cabochons
and buckles Of an elaborate sort should
play an important role in preSent day
costumes. Where quantities of small but
tons are necessary to emphasize a line
on coat or skirt, they are usually of the
crocheted type and not o. brilliant hue
Buckles, however. advertise their pres
ence blatantly because of their size and
gold bullion texture, While cabochons are
massive affairs of gold and silver. carry
ing Etruscan designs. Roman intaglio
and limitations of jewels of great price
The fabric-made cabochon is really a
work of needle art, so intricate are it's
twistings of chenille. it's embroideries and
it's. raised effects. Nevertheless. quanti-
ties of them are put the new tailor
made costumes, and there is no DENYING
that their presence adds infmea surablv To
the general effect.
One-Piece Gowns.
One-piece street gowns are reputed by
those women who wear them to represent
the ideal of sartorial comfort, as when
the arms have been thrust into the long.
small sleeves, the fronts hooked below
the chemisette and the sash girdle adj
justed, the toilet is practically COM
pleted. These costumes, like those OF
more elaborate design. are in one tone
when not in two shades SO closely allied
that the difference between them is
scarcely discernible. In addition to the
heavy broadcloths, of which they are
often made. the widely ribbed serges of
English weave are used, as we'll as the
thick cheviots and worsteds. They are
ideal costumes for early autumn wear on
the street and later may be worn over
hip-length sweaters or beneath fur coats.
Exit the Separate Waist.
The comfort of the one-piece frock and
the ease with which it is adjusted, if
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05

left side of the raised waist h. :. To make
the fashionable picture complete. it is
above all else necessary to know whether
the special garment to be thus decorated
demands girdle encirciing the waist or
merely attached streamers.
Revers as Trimmings.
The value of revers as trimming is
not to be overestimated And in adopt
ing them it Is necessary to decide in
what form they are most becoming to
the individual figure. for one of their
chief claims to consideration is that the
position of their points may be varied. If
il is necessary Or desirable-and here
there is a distinction without difference
to add width across the bust and Shout
ders and, slenderness toward the raised
waistline, then the points should slope
downward. If. on the contrary, the
shoulders are wide and the bust bit too
high. the points of the reVers may form
an almost straight line across the lower
portion of the waist and their narrowest
part merges into the shoulder seam at it's
junction with the collar.
High Collars Reign Supreme.
Anything better suited to the American
climate save in certain southern sections,
than the high collar which is being so
extensively used on French tailored suits
il would be difficult to imagine. 1t pro-
tects the throat not only at the back,
where draughts are most apt to attack
il but comes go high at the sides as to
save the ear tips from frost bites, and
at front, while slightly depressed. is like
" to be the salvation of many set of
delicate vocal chords. Verify, the in
croyable collar should gain the approval
of those physicians who for long years
mast have. warred against the open-necked
coat and the chest yelled with lingerie
guimpe.
Cloth Trimmings Revived.
When King Solomon declared that there
was no new thing under the sun he was
probably thinking about feminine fash
ions. and in these few are so periodically
revived as that of cloth trimmings upon
silk or satin garments. The revival this
season is undoubtedly due to the vogue
of the tunic, which. when developed OF
a fabric that has not d woven-in border
must obviously have an edging OF hand
embroidery fancy braid or cloth. These
rows of cloth bands not only are used
to define draperes, but they emphasize
the shape of cuffs collars and hip peck
cts and form the battlement effects
which are now so marked q feature OF
skirt and coat trimmings.
One-Tone Contributions.
There is no gainsaying that the smart
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05

many q moon. For the white net blouses
the novelty edge ga!loons are wonderfully
effective trimmings. \ most attractive
trimming in round mesh has ven!se
band and an Irish design that is re-
peated in every fashionable color, the bet
ter TO further the development of the
bolster blcuses of the genuine directoire
gowns which demand bodices in the same
tone as the skirt although the deep
guimpes and the sleeves may be of flmi
est white net Where a designer elects
to depart from this one-tone idea, how
ever, there is an excellent opportunity to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05

- o radical have been the changes in
fashions during the past few
months that gown of last win
~ tiers dating differs greatly from
those now being shown by the
clothes artists of Paris. The craze in re-
gard 10 the revival of drectoire modes
which calls for clinsing skirts where erst-
while they were flowing, for cores versus
piea;s and for short waists rather than
long. is the only salient feature of the
old-new idea. The woman who is CARRIED
in accordance with Dame Fashions de-
crees appears to be about foot taller
than of yore and half her former width.
She has neither waist. shoulders nor hips.
and the consensus of opinion of mascu-
line critics is that she most resembles
a lead pencil. Blu, in point of fact she is
ike top-heavy telegraph pole, owing to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05
Radical Changes Tailored Mods-Scany Skirts and heightened
Coats-Close-Fhtng Sleeves With Hight Pointed Cuffs and
Wrist Frills-Sashes and Revers-Many Buttons.
Increasing Length of Coats.

it rarely measures more than two and
a half yards.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05
aak6UlMc Z1y6zzzA Aa.1ozT
- 5e7zo70

IRENE for the ma jorty Of women. espe-
cia!ly of they possess the redundant
curves which fashion decres for the mo-
ment. some exceptionally clever Partisan,
artist has designed a coat that gives the
same long side lines as does the typical
Incroyable. but also a SC: mt back form,
which fits the figure almost as closely
as the skirt over which the garment is
worn. 1t is the sort OF coat which APP
peals to any woman who i tends to adopt
long skirts, as it has all the features of
the extreme fashions of the moment, and
vet is enninently practical.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05
Skirts Grow Scantier.

the proportions of huge hat laden with
plumes and wide-spreadng wings.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05
Preserved Peaches.

Select large and rather firm peaches
either the yellow Crawfords or white
peaches, as preferred. Peel with a silver
knife or remove the skins as you would
those of tomatoes, by putting them, a
few at time in a wire basket and
dipping them into kettle of boiling
water when the skins will rub off.
Weigh them and allow three-quarters of
a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. The
peaches may be left whole If not too large
to go in the can: otherwise cut in halves
and add few peach pits to each can for
flavor. Make strip of sugar and just as
little water as possible to dissolve it-a
pint of cold water TO three pounds ,of
sugar, When il boils skim clear. then add
the peaches. few at a time. and cook
them until transparent. Pack them in
jars. Let the strip boil half an hour
after the peaches are out. then pour 1t
over them and seal tie Jars.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05
The Sleeves That Are.


What sleeves would be was for months
mooted question which the greatest of
dressmakers at headquarters in Paris and
Vienna refused to answer. probably be-
cause they dared not compromise their
regulations. The sleeve of the year has
arrived. however. and it is not any too
beautiful Nevertheless. 1t is smart. and
il is the one which accords best with the
vogue of long-draWn- effects. Pri-
marty it is the conventional! coat sleeve
SO reduced that at the top 1t must be set
plainly or with Il minimum amount of
fullness into the arm size, and from ell
bow to wrist be all but tight-fitting. 1t
extends far over the hand ard In every
outline is utterly divergent from the
overworked "half-short" sleeves of volu-
minous cut, which for so prolonged per-
iod afforded the world an opportunity to
realize how unbeautiful the feminine fore
arm can be.
Cuffs Exceptionally Smart.
The Louis cuffs which for SO long have
struggled to make themselves appreciat-
cd, but were only taken up to = limited
extent in past seasons rave at last come
into their kingdom. Fashion not only APP
proves of them, but she puts them where
they never were heretofore-on the
sleeves of indoor costumes. The woman
who has Il small ana ll-Snaped hand
knows the value of the Louis cuff which
more than any other finish, empha sizes
tapering finger tips and dmpled knuckles.
Sashes Seen on Everything.
Sashcs are said by eminent couturicres
to he d possible accessory of every gown
and coat that bears the Partisan trade
mark So widespread is the vogue GER
tain to become that it is safe to assume
that long before next .pring everything
feminine from me kindergarten school
girl to the great grandmother will have
collected a goodly supply of fringcd
lengths of satin. liberty or Ottoman silk
The correct girdle of course, is designed
solely for one type of costume and at
tached to it, and it may be remarked in
passing that art is necessary to drape
it properly that the ends shall fall in
careless, graceful folds from the front OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05
Lemon-Ginger Beer.

An excellent homemade drink is lemon
ginger beer. and It Is cooling and re-
freshing. We give the recipe here: Over
half a dozen sliced lemons pour two gal
Ions of cold water. Then add an ounce OF
ginger root and a pound and a half. of
GRADUATED sugar Let all boil half a
minute then add a tablespoonful of
cream of tartar. Strain and set in cool
place When nearly cold add a yeast
cake which has been dissolved in a little
lukewarm water. Stir thoroughly; then
set in a cold place over night. In the
morning bottle, lay bottles on their sides
in the cellar. When wanted the lemon
ginger will be ready for use. If it is i'm
possible to always procure the ginger
root a small bottle of Jamaica ginger may
be substituted
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05

ANCY braids were never more
popular than at the present time,
when the rage for trimming tai
Il lored coat and skirt suits in
stimulation of directoire and en-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05
Go6GS Lo16er A1zaAA<1zz0'

left side of the raised waist H. = To make
the fashionable picture complete, it is
above all else necessary to know whether
the special garment to be thus decorated
demands a girdle encirciing the waist or
merely attached StreamerS.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-05

, 0 match the simply tailored Eng.
fish mohair or serge street suit
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1908-08-09
ARK. TRAVELLERS
 MET LAST NIGHT

\ large and enthusiastic meeting of the local organization of the Arkansas Travellers was held at the Jefferson Hotel last night. The object of the
 meeting Was to discuss plans and to arrange the program for the state Ar
 kansas Travellers convention which
 meets in this city on Junc ,, 6, and
 oI next year, as was decided at the
 last convention which vas held at
 Fort Smith. The meeting was prcsid-
 ed over by President W. N. Trulock and all election was held to fill the vacancy in the secretaryship caused by the resignation of Guy Leaar, who
 has been elected secretary of the State
 organization of the Travellers, and Mir.
 Robert Finley of Gillespie Bros. was duly elected to fill the position. X , resolution was then passed endorsing
 the action of MT. Lenar, who has nov ed his Headquarters to Little Rock and ilas opened his offices at the Marion Hotel. This was necessitated as Mr. I.eflar has accepted a lucrative posi- ton with Little Rock firm. \ com-
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1908-08-09

mIttee ol three composed ot Mao v. l.. Ioney, I. F. Daniels and Geo !. | lc'Sh was appointed 10 audit the books or the treasurer.
 Mf Woods, trustee of he Orphans Home at Monticello, then made q reso- luton of thanks to the local body of Travellers for their assistance in the Denett game of ball at Forest park, thanking the members for their gen erous interest. X voluntary collection was taken by the Travellers present dnd nice sum for the benefit of the Monticello Orphanagc was realized. Three cheers and a tiger were given
 Uncle Billy" Sandnford for the gen. erous interest he has shown in behalf of the orphanage -qr.u1
 The local organization plans to make the convention next year in this city the biggest and best of all that have been held. Rates on all roads running into Pine Bluff will be secured and the event will he made a gala oc- easion ih the commercial history of Pine Bluff