Evening star., 1908-01-19
DreSSnnaking
Helps

parts cut double are bound to be op-
posites-one for each side of the
garment-and a mistake is impos-
sible.
Single-width material not having
any figure, stripe or nap may be
folded with the two cut ends to-
gether.
In prominently striped or figured
material of any width, or In single
width material having a nap, stripe
or figure, all the parts must be cut
cut separately, laying each piece of
the pattern on the material before
cutting any of them.
In laying on the pattern, the per-
forations indicating the 1engthwlse
thread of the goods must be laid ex-
actly parallel with the thread, while
the pieces to be cut with desig-
mated edge on lengthwise fold OF
the material should be placed ac-
cordingly.
On double-width material the fold
ed crease would be the correct place.
but single-width material must be
folded with its selvage even for the
purpose.
The pattern pieces should be dis
posed of to best advantage, placing
the largest parts first, and always
laying on all the skirt pieces before
the waist or coat parts are consld-
cred.
In followin,; this method it is
sometimes possible to cut the small
er sections of a waist from parts of
the N Material that cannot be used
for skirt lengths. But not on any
accohnt shoulc the position of the
patti ern pieces oe changed from the
correct one indicated by the per-
forations.
Any deviation from this rule
would be false economy, as the ap-
pearance of the finished garment de
pends on the correct cutting OF the
individual parts.
If the material is short of the re-
uuired amount. if it is very expen-
sive, or for any other reason the
utmost economy has to be resorted
TO in cutting. it is advisable to cut
the garment in some inexpensive
material-unbleachcd muslin, for
instance-then fitting this and max
ing any changes on the pattern be-
fore cutting the garment proper.
Sometimes a few inches may be
economical in this manner. Also.
the duplicate half of the garment
may be cut in paper, thus giving a
chance to distribute patterns of all
the pieces required on material
spread out full width. In this case
it is necessary to mark the original
pattern pieces, as well as the dupli-
cate ones, for opposite sides.
When the tissue paper pattern
and its duplicate are still pinned
together, write the word ''right" on
the tissue paper as it lies uppermost.
Then turn both papers together
and write the same word on the
other paper as it lies on top. In
placing the papers on the goods, al
ways have the ,egible word on top,
and errors are impossible.
Each piece is pinned down care
fully, keeping it perfectly fiat. and
even referring again to the label If
any doubt arises as to the correct
ness of procedure.
When the parts are cut slngly, 1t
is practical to mark each piece of
the pattern with a colored chalk or
by pinning slip of paper on the
side uppermost as it lies on the SIN
gle material.
In cutting the duplicate parts the
pattern pieces are reversed, turning
the marked side of the pattern to-
ward the material and thus avoiding
all possible chance of an error.
In many of the new skirts the
ffainess is regulated as much by the
tapes as by the actual cut and shape
of the skirt. Especially is this true
in the full, pleated circular skirts
and the plain habit-back circular
skirts.
These plain circular skirts and
the semi-circular skirts are made
with two inside foundation taplngs;
these tapings are placed upon the
material and tackled to the founda-
tion lining with French tacks.
If you are making a full waist
that is. waist of soft material put
on with tucks and shirrings to
tight-ftted lining-there should be
a dart taken in the lining over the
shoulder.
Where this pleat is placed de-
pends upon the fulness of the bust,
and if the fig, is very full one,
two pleats are used-one near the
center of the shoulder seam and the
other on the front of the arms eye.
For a figure f ordinary size one
dart will be enough.
There are little boned caps that
fit into the tops of the sleeves !:
these are used in all sleeves-in
those of the sheerest muslin and
chiffon waists as well as in those of
the heaviest cloth coats-and unless
you do use these little caps you will
find that the top of the sleeves says