The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-03-29
FETCHING COATS OF PONGVT
UINI MODELS BOTH ARTISTIC
AND SERVICEABLE.

The problem Of the separate coat for
,reer wear is a puzzling one this season,
The ordinary woman cannot have a coat
An suite with each princess trotting frock,
and vet The day when that princess frock
voru without q wrap will be In order Ia
mil lar away, and many women prefer to
vsar 4 light wrap with street costume even
10 midsummer
Of long carriage wraps and dust coats
there ara thousands, but the short jaunty
vrsp suitable for general utility use seems
rorrvi~reut since the serviceable covert
rost las lost It's grip upon feminine favor
mi has been relegated to certain set func.
uors short coats Of tafeta, pesu de
c,lrc. satin, pongee. &c, embroidered or
h-sdei i'm sontache, are shown IN the
,t.p.. hut 50 far a majority Of these gar
reuts have a lamentably readymade look,
and the short coat Of black tafTeta must be
yerv CHIC indeed If it is TO escape looking
common
R!' 81 hIia the matter Of the short sepa-
rate coat is still IN the air the makers have
evidently found no difficulty 10 the de.
AEfl|k 'l IdNtlIl hubN NOdAts dilh AlA0eo
garments are appearing in infinite variety,
nom the serviceable motor coat OF tweed
n serge m the exquisite carriage coat Of
l cArs do chine or silk mousseline.
Midway between these two extremes
ia the province Of picturesque coats less
ra.,loal than the former, more utilitaran
than tho latter, and here one finds a long
Inc ri dclectable things,
rorgoe is a great f~avorite for such
Srr.'ir vel seryiceable coats, and innumer-
sh'e models m this material are displayed,
the choice ranging from the tailored and
Icrevha, severe dust coat Of heavy rajah
NJ raw sin tn the fun flowing model Of
light weight pongee. handsomely embroi-
dared in Oriental designs and colorings
.crir onventionsldesig and elf~-coloring.
The natural biscuit or mode tones Of
porgos are in high favor and make an
excellent background for Oriental en-
broidAres. having in addition the merit
Of accommodating themselves to any cos
tune wc.n With them. One lower Broad
u,y firm has IN stock a superb collection
NJ imported coats Of this description,
Chinese blues predominsting in most Of
tho models and black satin being almost
inevitably used 10 tone down the hues 81
the embroidery and bring them into hsr-
nony VITA the neutral background.
Handsome ornaments, brandenbourgs,
e.. in tho color Of the pongee are also
ruch used in connection with the EN-
broijer!es, and more modish still are big
ornaments made from heavy cording
covered With the pongee. Hand braiding
In soutGcho is much liked by the great
DESIGNERS, but more ordinary types Of
machine braiding are regarded askance
and eft to the cheaper garments.
If you cannot have handsome braiding
have none az all" was the advice Of one
fashionable tailor consulted upon this
gLiect. Use some sort Of self-trimming
instead end trust the effect to the lines Of
he garment and to some original note in
collar and sleeve finish
The ooats chosen for the sketches illus
rate this principle, and nc one Of them
Entails elaborate trimming or hand work,
though skill. is demanded Of tho maker in
the obtaining Of the graceful lines,
Asmple cape cost, not perh1y belonging
u the genuine dust coat class, but most
useful and smart for srring wear, was, in
The original model, fashioned Of smoke gray
doth. unlined and falling with admirable
nppleness. The only trimming Of the coat
consisted Of collar and sleeve finish in black
Gherty satin and Of large cabochon buttons
10 dull wrought gold.
Worn over the frock OF smoke gray nous
ssllne de sole to supplement which it was
primarily designed, this was a charming
wrap. but il works out we'll In other color
Ings and for separate use, and one New
YORK has just had II duplicated
10 a delicious, eudscious shade Of pinkish
Nd made with black satin collar, sleeve
border and big buttons, and intended for
wear over white lingerie frocxs,
These modish red and rose tones, the soft
delicate greens and the medium tUne blues.
are extremely effective over sheer summer
irocks Of white or neutral tone, but are Of
course too vivid for general city wear.
In the various pongees coats Of these colors
and darker shades OF the same colors are
shown, the effects being monotone and
The entire upper Fart Of the coat down TO
On Empire waist line Icing finely braided
by hand in ~self-color soutache. No other
trimming ave usually a neck finish or scarf
Of black liberty,
And here we are back with the pongees
again. There is literally no keeping away
from these materials in a discussion OF dust
oosts
Some good practical models for motoring,
travelling. dc. owe their success entirelyto
their cut and tailoring and are built up from
natural color pongee on lines slightly sug-
g'stive of the Directoire, Three unlined,
well shaped capes fall over the shoulders
70 he short Empire waist line, and there is
Ihst rundown collar Of black liberty.
4 coat copied from this model and made
especially for wear with a pongee jumper
frc,s u natural tone trimmed in dull blue
has a collar If dull blue pongee bordered
by black liberty, and buttons OF the blue
pongee showing a narrow rim Of the black
HtIn.
An excellent design for soft pongee or
crepe do chine Ia the picturesque model
win plated sleeve which Ia illustrated
Inong our sketches. Embroidered buttons
and q narrow line Of silk in contrasting
h1e, embroidered in self color and border
Ing the sleeve bottom, are the only touches
dtnnmIng on a coat which, nevertheless,
hd decided elegance, thanks to it's grace
Of line.
Crepe de chine Of the heavy variety
makes a Durable cOat deanita ig early