The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-04-19
MANS SEVEN LIGHT TOP COATS
NO FEVER WILL DO IF he rs
70 BE MODISHLY DRESSED.
TIVE OheSterhelds, = Covert, \ Heavy Box
Coat, = PaletOt and Two Travelling
Goats Required by Fashion for summer
-The Lines Of All These Are Different.

~ Hopp0u tho peTuplFhJon ITOm ms OIO"'
you either need an overooat or you don't,
You either put II on 10 keep warm or you
leaVo.it OF because you want to DO cool.
So one coats enough
Soond -, this doctrine may be for tho
man who has only unitarian standards in
clothing, from the point Of view Of the New
YorhAr who wants 10 dress we'll II Is all
wrong. It's precisely in the matter Of tho
, lightweight overcoat that the well dressed
men Of the city find opportunity to dis
tinguish themselves.
Tho smallest number Of coatsl' re-
peated the fashionable tailor 10 whom
The Sun reporter turned for information.
well, Of course my young mon scarcely
look at the question in that way.
Usually they want TO find out the largest
possible number Of smart coats 10 wear
in the spring and summer You see, there
Is really In this season Of the year a variety
possible at no other time.
in the winter a man In New York has
TO wear a winter coat and that settles II.
Perhaps II will be made Of one material
or another; 1t remains, however, amply a
winter ~overcoat.
Then think In contrast TO this lack Of
variety what may be put on in summer.
Think Of an overooat made merely 10 wear
at tennis or one that Ia useful only for
yachting and one especially for riding and
another for coaching. A season that ad-
mits Of 20 many outer garments IL the
kind that really appeals 10 the well dressed
man and inspires his tailor,
But you want TO know the smallest
possible number Of light overcoats a well
dressed man may get along WITH he went
on patrOnizingly. Let me SOC
well. there is the Chesterfield, which
scarcely needs to be mentioned since IL b
inevitable. The most modest wardrobe
must include q coat Of that style, 30 we will
skip It as q foregone conclusion. Then.
Of oourSe there ought TO be a covert coat
Of the new style for morning wear. a heavier
box made perhaps double breasted to dis
tinguish II from the coats for more dressy
wear, then some sort Of paletot. which Ia
also for dress or morning wear and has
the advantage Of allowing the wearer to
show Oh his figure Then at least two
rough coats for travel, country wear or
motoring II II be that this imaginary person
Of whom you are speaking has no sporting
wardrobe.
so We have two Chesterhelds, a covert.
a heavier box, a paletot and two travelling
c~oats-in all, seven. Well, the man who
gets through with seven and manages to
look we'll dressed ought to be a very good
manager. What in the world would become
OF us Fifth avenue tailors with our high
rents and other expenses all men tried
to keep down to such a close margin1'
This opinion represented the extreme
view from that Of the fat man who thought
that no light coat was necessary, OF
course the actual wardrobe Of this kind
among New Workers will be found TO be
very much more limited. All the coats
which this tailor mentioned, however.
will be seen on New Workers.
This tailor sold The Sun reporter that
the man who attempted to get through
the spring and summer with only one
Chesterfield would have to give up all idea
Of looking more than clothed. There wa
no possibility Of dress under such oircum-
stances.
"It's a popularity Of the styles for this
summers coats he explained. that al
most anything which can DO used for suit
ing serves just as well for an o%vercoat.
The striped summer hannels are alone
excluded from this class.
1T may be a striped vicuna or a check
cheviot or a Scotch tweed or a herring
bone, which is in fact the smartest Of all
the overooatings; whatever it is that is
appropriate for a suit will be mart as the
material for the overcoat. The Chester
fold that l make up most for every da
wear 10 this year Of a very dark brown
~herringbone pattern, 40 dark as to be called
oak. 1t has ever a suspicion Of green
in the very darkest shades.
Il turn back the cuffs on the rather long
sleeves and pipe the cuffs with a shade Of
velvet somewhat darker than the cloth.
The collar ! make Of velvet much lighter
than | would use for a winter coat.
THE pockets are provided with flaps
which are also corded with the velvet piping,
The whole coat is lined with silk, which
comes down TO the edge Of the lapels.
There are three seams in the back, not
too closely cut in TO the figure, which the
coat follows closely enough 70 be called
three-quArters fitting. This year the proper
length lie about TO a point two inches below
the knee,
ABLY adapted 10 the early spring mornings
when there 10 q little freshness in the air;
but ID would never do for an afternoon
wedding, for instance. For such an oc-
casion [ recommend q Chesterfield OF a gray /
90 dark az TO be almost black.
1T differs from the morning coat in
having no velvet cording and no cuffs.
The sleeve is finished with three buttons
made 80 as really 10 be capable Of unbut-
toninR. Instead Of the velvet collar there
Is a collar Of the same goods, and the lapels,
which are moderately peaked, are Of the
black silk which lines the coat This should
be cut moderately close 70 the figure and Il
has a vent only in the centre Of the three
seems In the back Of the coat.
These overcoats, like the other coats OF
the summer, follow the natural breadth
Of the shoulders. They are not padded In
the least"
1t was 10 find what coat Of the summer
was really distinctive that The Sun re-
porter sought out a tailor who Ia especially
noted for his skill in dressing young men
who are able and willing to wear suits that
might be found much too pronounced in
style for men Of more mature years and
figure.
well, il ! were called on TO say what was
this year the newest overcoat for summer
wear" the tailor said after some delibera-
ton, Il should pick out the new style covert
coat.
sYou know that a covert coat Il tradition
ally one meant for riding and the smartest Of
all those used 10 be only an inch or two
A. - H. 81. .zN HkA