The Washington herald., 1908-04-26

until better means of transportation are
found Mr.. Magelssen says:
Inasmuch as Bagdad is the most i'm
portant trade center in the Mesopota-
mian Valley there is naturally at all
times a large number OF merchants and
traders going between this city and the
regions to the north, TO Persia and 10
the districts lying TO the southwest
However. the Mohammedan pilgrims
who come from many lands 10 worship
in the holy cities OF KerbeIa and Nejef
make up the great majority OF visitors
to Bagdad, and their number is said 10
be nearly $1,000 yearly. Pilgrims from
India reac'l Bagdad By river steamer
from Bassora and proceed in carriages
10 Kerbela and Nejef, while those who
arrive from South Russia and Persia
come on horseback. In sedan chairs in
double baskets fastened to a mules back.
or on foot,
No carriage roads exist in Persia in
the districts through which they must
come and they cannot avail themselves
of carriage travel before the Turkish
frontier is reached at Khanikin. Rather
than dispose of the animals that have
carried them hundreds Of miles they con-
tinue their journey IN slow stages down
through Mesopotamla until the shrines
have been reached, and return In the
same manner The weu-to-do class Of
pilgrims sometimes engage carriages at
khanikin, but their number is very linz
tied, and carriage traffic on the Bag
dad-Khanikin road is never heavy.
A Mueh-traveIed Highway.
The road between Khanikin and Nejef
through Bagdad is undoubtedly the busi-
est in the Turkish empire. one meets in
days travel dozens Of caravans, each
numbering from IS to $50 or more camels.
led by a gaudily bedeoked animal carry
ing on its back an embroidered flag OF
many colors. There are hundreds Of
pack mules and tiny, quEck-stepping
donkeys loaded down with merchandise
of diverse varieties, The latter beast OF
burden is really the Mesopotamian Eek
press and fast mail" The wagons are
of one kinda clumsily built creation OF
the wagonette pattern. They are manc-
featured In Bagdad and sold at about
500, but are both heavy and uncomfort-
able, The top is built Of wood and the
sides have wooden shutters in place OF
curtains. They have seating capacity for
eight passengers. but frequently as many
as twelve persons viii crowd into one
carriage; the seats have no cushions
which is well from a sanitary point OF
view
The rear Of the carriages is built high
er than the front. and it is difficult to
enter without assistance. I found exit
| through a window TO be the most con
venient. as the top and hub Of the whee
could then be stepped on. The running
/ gears OF the carriages bear no sign OF
/ paint, but al have curious objects paint
/ ed on the door and sometimes inside Il
/ keep of the evil eye" The hubs Of
| these conveyances seem to contract
/ while the axles appear 70 lengthen. anC
a drive in q Mesopotamian carriage {.
/ apt TO produce a feeling akin TO seasick
ness. 1t is disagTeeable. as the swaying
motion keeps one in constant dread thaf
the wheels are slipping of
The Trip to Nejef.
The journey from Bagdad to Neief.
distance OF 100 miles. is accomplished II
two days. The start is made from Bag
dad at o'clock in the morning. the car
risge being drawn by four horses o.
mules, and two changes are made befor
the Euphrates River is reached. Their
is no bridge there sufficiently strong t,
permit a carriage TO pass over, and pas
sengers must cross on foot to the othe
/ side, where another vehicle is entere,
and another lot Of animals hftched on
t Tf6aus lot
TO Kerbela, where the night is spent, ant
at the next morning another carriag
company takes the weary traveller Il
hand, and after making four changes o
animals manages to deposit him in Neje
/ IN the early afternoon. II will be seel
that in order to make the round trip
considerable number Of horses and mule
must be employed All carriages ar
drawn by two teams.
Transportation rates between Bagdat
and Kerbela vary between % piasters Is
cents) and so piasters (S26D per seat, &C
cording to season. while between Ker
bella and Nejef they are inclined 10 b
higher
The horses employed on these carriage
are of the poorest, being purchased a
not exceeding $50. The mules are Of
better class ard cost as much as $50 De
head. Their eplseep Is said TO averag
about % cents per day. The driver pro
vides his own license at a cost of abou
45 cents. good for a year. and receives
monthly salary equal to $3.50; he EN-
ploys an assistant who shares his wages
Tee maintenance of the carriage servic
would appear to be expensive. for tn
horses are driven at breakneck speed an
have little time for rest, as they retur
the following day Although the animal
are changed, the harness is not, and
have seen a small horse put into a bi
mules collar and a big mule placed /
the harness of a small horse. the result
are obvious. The carriages are construct
ed of cheap material and cannot last Ions
even in the level and reckless Mesopota
milan country.
Lines 70 HiIIah and Muazzem.
To Hillah, near ancient Babylon, car
riages to the number of twelve. of III
same class as the aforementioned, ru
every day, and fares vary according I
season. Hnlah is reached in twelv
hours. Another line runs to Samarra
the distance is covered in ten hours, wit
but one change OF animals. In samarr
lie buried two Mohammedan martyrs ant
|. as large numbers Of pilgrims journey {
their tombs, traffic on this road is cor
siderable.
J There is no regular carriage service {
Khanikin. but Il is always possible {
engage vehicles for the trip. Near tn