The new era. (Walden, Colo.) 1906-19??, 1908-10-15
'zEZD Nz221k;2s M Thur .Z1,NAy GAINES
1T ZTHEHARA, hZlyGARY

ION leaving Trenscen we Travelled
down the Danube, when an hours
journey brought us to Orsova, quaint
oriental town on the Roumanian Dor
der just above the Iron Gates. A gen.
tie specimen of the unspeakable Turk
rowed us across to the island of Ada
Kaleh. midway in the Danube, where
the people of Turkish colony live
under Hungarian protection, exempt
from taxes and military service. max
ing life picturesque for themselves
and for the strangers who visit them
to sip Turkish coffee and buy Turkish
wares at their funny little shops.
THE finest stretch of the Danube
lies just above Orsova. and the days
voyage from there to Belgrade was
well worth the early start on a chill
October morning. The glorious seen
cry of the defile of Kazan, the coming
and going of peasant folk of many ma
NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. Hungarians, Rou.
manians, and people from farther east.
with an occasional grand Turk spread
ing his praying-carpet on the deck at
sunset. make a steamer-voyage on that
part of the Danube memorable.
There is, indeed, no pleasanter
mode OF travel in Hungary than by
the steamers that ply on the Danube
and the Tisza. and it has the advan-
tage of economy, since fares are law
and you can sleep as well as have
meals on board.
Our steamer anchored just above
tha 40 nf ri 1iUhtc
that marked Belgrade, and. after
day spent in the capital of King
Peters kingdom. where there is
fascinating market, we took train for
Szeged. Not that we had any special
wish to see that prosperous but some
what prosaic town. which has been
rebuilt on the site of one washed
away by the floods of the river TisZa,
some 80 years ago. 1t was but con-
venient stopping-place on the way to
the most fascinating part of Hungary.
Pennsylvania; and its shops and thea
ter and picture-gallery, even its mar
ket-place. ablaze with costume and
atlame with red pepper, did not tempt
us to linger.
For time was flying. and to leave
Hungary without making a tour in
Pennsylvania would be to miss the
finest forest and mountain scenery.
the most bewitching variety of cos.
tune, the most characteristic portion
of the land of the Magyars. 1t is in
Pennsylvania that many Magyar no
bles have their country seats. and
there the best shooting is to be had.
r,,I ttaIs Il
pensed. 1t is vast country, and up
in the mountains and off the beaten
track the traveller may have occasion
ally to rough it. Another pleasant
town is Nagy-Szeben German, Her
mannstadt, where you seem to stun
BILE into the middle ages or Faust
legend. so oldworld are its cobbled
streets, its churches and houses, and
market-place peopled with SaXons,
Roumanians. and Hungarians in pic
turesque costumes. Both Negy-Sze.
ben. and Brasso German. KronstadD,
few hours nearer the Roumanian
border of Hungary. are good centers
for excursions among the peaks of the
Carpathians. The Carpathian club has
mountain shelters where travellers can
obtain simple fare and beds, and is
ever ready to help the stranger with
advice and information from its Off
ces in these towns.
at was, however. too late in the sea
SON for more than a flying visit to.
some OF the quaint little walled cita-
dels of the Saxon settlers, whose for
titled churches tell of the surprise
60 .1r,A In,
these regions. But before leaving
Brasso, l travelled as far as the Rou-
manian border and had ghmpses OF
mountain scenery whose rugged
grandeur reminded me of the Scottish
Highlands"