The new era. (Walden, Colo.) 1906-19??, 1908-10-15

For those contemplating a tour to
Europe. Hungary offers an embarrass-
ing choice of beauty spots. The fol-
lowing is Miss Alice Stronachs inter
esting story of her visit to the coun-
try of the Magyars:
Late spring and early autumn are
the best times for a visit to Hungary.
True. there are winter spots in the
Tatra to attract the enthusiast for
these, and in summers heat delicious
cool may be found at the many lovely
mountain spas, whose marvels OF
scenery and of healing springs are far
too little known to English victims of
govt and rheumatism and other all
ments. But the extremes of cold and
heat make travelling on the great plain
of Hungary well-nigh intolerable In
the depth of winter or the height of
summer. Autumn, when glory of
crimson and gold begins to sweep
over forest and mountain. and the AL
fold. or lowland teens with mellow
fruitfulness. is delightful time for
tonr in Hungary; and. moreover, the
traveller who times his visit then can
count on seeing something of the Hun
garian vintage. festival peculiarly
Fascinating In the land of the csardas.
the home of picturesque costume and
gypsy music.
Many a fairy tale and legend hovers
round the ruined castles that crown
the heights we saw on either side as
our slow train bore us through the
valley Of the Vag. one of the lovelest
districts In Hungary. with its fertile
fields and it's beautiful river. bearing
great RATS of timber from the upper
ranges of the Carpathian mountains
that inclose Hungary in semi-circle
of beauty. 1t is region known to
those travellers who find their way to
the Engadine of Hungary the High
Tatra, a summer paradise of lake and
mountain scenery. with fine hotels and
villas. and many attractions for the
summer visitor or those who venture
thther for winter sport.
--a1he Hungarians are not yet infected
with the strenuousness of their Brit
fish and American visitors. and we
found life in our little mountain spa
of Trenscen-TeplitZ, on our arrival
there. a restful and pleasant change
from the hustle of a London season.
We sampled the baths, whose strong
sulphur waters attracted visitors from
Vienna, Germany and all parts of
Hungary; listened to the music of the
gypsy band. that played in the morn
ing in lime-tree alice, in the even
ing in the casino; had picnic teas in
the woods on the spurs of the Little
Carpathians, and dined in the garden
of "A little inn, where we first expert
enced the joy of eating kukuruks
(heads of maize). and drinking d de-
licious wine that our host called tokay.
possibly distant cousin of that i'm
perial wine. And always there was
the sensation of living in fairy tale,
where every peasant girl might be
princess and every swineherd prince
in disguise. The shops with their
quaint, naive signs-a crusty loaf to
denote the bakers, realistic ham at
the butchers. beaker foaming at the
brim, or cup frothing over with
cream, to tell where beer or coffee
might be had-deepened the sense of
fairy tale or pantomime. And every
where we were welcomed with the
charming courtesy of the people who
have kept the formula. and sometimes
the pretty custom. Of kissing the hand
of the guest whom they would honor.
"Our later wanderings took us to
others of the wonderful medicinal spas
which, we'll known to the Austrians.
Z Hungarians. and Poles are too little
known In England.