East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1908-12-07
. FASHION LETTER FROM
. CATHERINE PAYZANT.

ess Ssse
New York. Dec, 5,-A great deal Of
excitement was manifest at the be-
ginning of the season over the ex-
treme changes that were made in wo-
mems clothes, but again the extreme
Is returning to the normal and as.
suming more rational proportions.
Some very charming and becoming
styles are being evolved out of the
new things that were given us at the
beginning of the season. There seems
to be a leaning towards the fashions
of a few years ago when simplicity
was the keynote. True, these things
are not seen to excess on the street
but over elaboration tires my lady of
fashion and simplicity has always a
charm that much decoration never
has,
Combining of two materials is one
OF the popular fancies of the season.
Cloth and velvet are used in all col
ors and one or the other may be more
prominent Satin and cloth are fire.
quently used, satin and velvet, the
heavy ribbed silk and broadcloth are
combined most cleverely to give a
contrast where but one color is used
and the "all-one-color" gown is very
popular at the present moment.
The question of decoration is big
one in these days, and when 1t is said
that there is a tendency toward the
simpler modes the truth of the state
ment is hardly apparent to the general
eve, but must be inferred from those
advance styles that are seen only in
the more private and exclusive stores.
Facts About Braid.
When braiding Is used IT Is rarely
used on both materials, If two are
used in the dress combination. II the
cloth has braidlng then the velvet is
left free of decorations, or vice versa
A skirt of velvet with an overskirt Of
cloth and a jacket of cloth. will have
its skirt perfectly plain and the over
skirt and jacket well braided. There
is lust one difficulty in this matter of
decoration. the danger of spelling the
long lines so essential nova ?days to
the present modes. All trimming
should accentuate this point of length
except in the case where the wearer
is tall and slight and wishes to take
from her height and makes herself
look broader than she is.
While the Directoire gown seems to
lead. no woman wishes all Of her
gowns or costumes of this style and it
is not absolutely universal for there
are gowns to he found of the semi
princess mode. Empire models, sheath
skirts modified to suit the tastes Of the
American woman, and for certain
times and duties even the shirt waist
suit and the jumper dress are in style.
There have been many changes since
their beginnings and every woman
who is what is called a good dresser"
makes further notifications for her
own style and needs, indeed, often she
combines the features of two modes,
though the combining of two histori-
cal modes is not one to always be COM
mended.
No Limit to ColOrs.
There is practically no limit to the
range of colors fashion permits this
aeason, but the preference seems to
be toward all of the dull tones-taupe
seems to be liked very much for the
Empire gown, grey and parme-violet
are often seen in the Directoire suits,
and the latter when trimmed with the
great pockets collar and revers in vel
vet makes a very rich looking cos
tune.
1t has become a fashion with some
women to have two coats to the one
skirt and one coat Of velvet trimmed
with braiding and perhaps beautiful
trimmed in another fashion and If the
color is not a too pronounced one,
this matter of the two coats gives
the effect Of having two different
gowns.
few colored braids are used on
gowns of a contrasting hue, thus for
instance cerise Is used on a black
broadcloth put on by sewing not flat
but edgewlse. Nevertheless the one
tone effect is liked better than all 9TH
ers and it does not so soon put a i
gown out of commission. The one-tone
in black is after all the most econom- !
ical gown to possess, except that
among some women there is a de-
cided aversions against black
The ouch of black Is better liked |
than all-black dress Of the black sash
of liberty satin or silk. A bit Of pip
ing in black is sometimes seen or the
long fringes.
A great deal of gold trimming is to
be seen, not in lavish amount, as once,
but just touch, string Of gold
thread band of gold tissue or a fold
If golden velvet. which brightens and
gives a stVle that no other color NAV