Omaha daily bee., 1908-04-05

ing the sleeves. one OF these has two
bias bands OF the material applied above
the buttons closing the sleeve. Better
| style and more in accord with the simpli-
city that Is sought in this springs modes
Is the simple open cuff that closes with
two buttons. In this case there Is nc
false cuff, but a real opening, with the
button holes.
DOubIe-Breasted sack Coats.
The other coat which interests the New
Yorker who wants TO be well dressed in
summer is the double breasted sack coat
which Is again taking on some of the
popularity It enjoyed for several seasons.
One Of New York's best dressed men left
with his tailor a standing order for four
teen years that a double breasted blue
serge suit was to be made for him every
| spring
! 1t varied only in respect to the size.
Additional inches had to be considered as
he grew older and incidentally broader.
For three years past he has dropped this
item from his order
| During that period these coats have been
out of style except for the use Of yachts
men; and then they formed part OF uni
forms. not suits. This year there is a
promise OF their revival and they are to be
/ AAahN III euNi aANidNAiNt uldNtfldlS ln0I
there seems no reason why they should not
recover their old time popularity.
They are Just as simple in the style de-
clared as correct for this year as the plain
sack. Three buttons close them on each
side. A cuff with two buttons finishes the
sleeve
There are no strapped seams and the
cuffs are finished with the two but
tons. Sometimes to give variety to this
simplicity. which the double breasted coat
can better stand because Of its proper
tions, there Is band OF the material
stitched across the top of false cuff In
better style, however, Is the cuff finish
The lines of the double breasted coat
also follow the figure closely. There is no
suggestion of additional breadth to the
shoulders and the high scam shows them
in their real proportions, trying as that
may be to the narrow shou1dered who
would rather be seen broad than stylish
The principal difference between this
coat and the double breasted coat Of
former years seems to lie in a decided in
dication Of the waist line. although It is
not good style to cut that too closely
There should only be a suggestion of out
line of the figure,
Trousers Have No Cuffs.
Trousers are not to be turned up this
summer a regular detail of style IL the
fashion makers are able to accomplish so
decided a change in an established mode.
What will be easier to impose well
dessed men is the noticeable smallness in
the measurements of the trousers.
They vary from those of last year in
showing more the shape Of the leg and
fitting more tightly about the top of the
boot. They will also be closer at the hips
Now that turned up trousers have been
declared out of mode the trousers leg
will fall further down over the boot. In
other words. there is revulsion against
the habit of wearing trousers pulled up
until it was almost possible to tell what
sort Of socks were worn by the men who
sought to be more in the style than any
body else.
OF course the trousers made with the
bottom already turned up and tightly
stitched in place, so that they were not to
be changed would cause every particular
hair of fashion designer to stand on end.
They were never worn by we'll dressed
men.
The walstcoat made with the suit scarcely
counts as a garment in summer. Most
men prefer the fancy waistcoat. Most
suits are made up without the waistcoat.
Those waistcoats that are made up in
the material of the suit follow the style
and cut of the fancy waistcoat and are to
be even lower this summer than they were
last. The points which end the waistcoat
will be shorter than they were, and in the
case OF the few double breasted waist
coat, worn in summer-sartorial inconsis-
tency-the points Will be shorter still.
Material IL Varied.
And what about the material for the
summer suit. whether it be sack coat or
double breasted? There is a choice of
several materials so far as the nature OF
the stuff is concerned. About the matter
of color there is less variety. The profess
sional answer the answer that would come
from the salesman in the Fifth avenue
shop, the wholesale man that was selling
the cloth, or the designer for the fashions,
would be but one word-"gray."
1T may be check, stripe, herringbone,
any design may be traced in the material.
but the professional idea would be that
the color ought to be gray, light, dark or
medium, but gray. One of the large ready
made houses in New York, which charges
as much for its suits as some of the Gus
tom tailors, rarely makes up any other
color in summer. Patrons who apply for
something else are told that gray is the
color for summer To go upstairs and
order something else and pay nearly double
is the only other way of getting a brown.
for instance, in that shop.
There are grey worsteds in soft finish
combined with stripes in red, green, blue,
and black. no thicker either and no more
striking to the eye than thin threads of
the same color lying on the light back
ground. Then there are checks outlined
in the same colors Sometimes that pat
tern is shown by thicker stripes, and they
impart more color to the goods, which are
in a gray so light as to seem cream colored
or so dark and slatelike in tone as to be
almost black.
WOrsted, CheviOt, Serge and Flannel.
The soft finished worsteds are better
adapted to summer wear, as they do not
show the dust nor do they later show the
spots which come when water falls on this
same dust. The hard finished cheviots for
dark blue double breasted suits are per
haps the thinnest of all materials for sum-
mer wear and are a temptation to the
purchaser. But like the serges IN such
smooth finish, they seem to spot of them !