Omaha daily bee., 1908-11-29

ASaNA @1H@
down the back and a deep vent in this
center seam.
Covert coats are now made to hang TO
a point a little below the knee. They are
loose enough to hang straight from the
shoulder and are lined only about the
shoulders, which are Of natural width with
no padding. There are two side pockets
with broad flaps. and the sleeves have a
turned back cuff which is not caught
with a button. The lapels. which are OF
the same material. are rather broad and
finished with three rows Of seams.
The rough ulster may not differ from the
double-breasted Chesterfield described above
except in the length. Such a coat, extend
ing down to the top Of the shoes. will form
as smart an ulster as any man could wear.
In the opinion of many persons who are
supposed to know what good dressing is.
It is smarter than the coats with the in
evitable yokes that have been brought into
fashion through the automobile dress.
The dcuble-breasted ulster needs only the
belt in the back to suit it perfectly to the
toughest kind of wear. As the ulster is
also made to serve for an automobile coat.
It is constructed to turn up to the neck
so as to conceal the linen collar altogether.
Then it may have a yoke that reaches
down TO the breast line and then falls with
two plaits on either side Of the double row
Of buttons down TO the bottom.
But II must be said that these yokes and
deep plaits and even the listers made with
the military collars that button up so
tightly under the turnover collar as to
protect the wearer from every blast-even
these are not such good style as the simple
/ double-breasted ulster with perhaps the
half belt in the back as its only finish.
For exclusively motor use the wearer is
justified in going so far as he may want to.
but this coat is not intended for town or
street wear. II must be reserved for the
automobile.
One of the tailors on Fifth avenue said
to a customer the other day that his
greatest delight in making a fur-lined coat
was to use the kersey for the outside ma
terial. 1t always made him hope for the
day when kersey would come into fashion
as the material for all coats for winter
wear.
The kerssys and meltons had a long
period of popularity and there seems now
little chance that they will ever be so well
liked again in the near future. They are
now used only for the fur-lined coats. and
with them black is the smartesL as well
as the most serviceable color. There are
not many occasions on which a man may
in New York wear a fur coat, but he en-
Joys those few so much as TO make UP
for the comparative infrequency of them.
The coat follows in outline the general
shape of a Chesterfield. with the solitary
difference TO be found in the length. The
length Of the smart fur-lined coat should
not be much less than one inch shorter
than three-quarters the length Of the body.
This makes the fur-lined a few inches
longer than the paletot.
The roll collar is preferred by most per
sons. as it more easily turns up about the
neck on cold nights. In case this roll collar
is made. it should be not less than seven
inches in width at the back and slope
down TO a much narrower finish al the
ends. These collars are also made in such
a way that the coat may be buttOned up
close to the neck. with only a narrow edge
OF fur above the tcp.
This all makes. Of course. for comfort.
But there are many persons VINO find the
notch collar 50 much smarter that they
would prefer it, This peaked collar with
the pointed lapels is more becoming than
the roll and has a more modish look There
should be two rows OF buttons down the
front, three seams in the back with a deep
vent and perfectly plain cuffs. unless fur
be used on them In case there is q fur
cuff it should be not less than four inches
deep.
There Is never any style in furs for men
One is as appropriate as another. excepting
seal and one OF two Of the more striking
varieies-mink with a Russian sable col
lar or a~strakhan OF otter-al are equally
mOdish. But Of all furs sstrakhan is the
least becoming to most men.