The San Francisco call., 1908-11-15

--RAtllS. NOV. Z.-1De lOuS SAPOSNSN
has happened: Small hats are i'm a
fact which will be of intense interest
to women of fashion on the Pacific
coast When / say small, l mean as
compared to the "aeroplanes' which
we foolish women have been led into
wearing for many weeks.
Coincident with the cold weather that
has prevailed here during the last few
days fur toques made their appearance.
and even now department shops show
an endless variety of fur. marabout and
swansdown toques. How they manage
to make these huge toques becoming
is a secret known only to these fasci-
mating Parisians. 1t seems hopeless
to try to initiate them. They re-
semble more than anything the head
gear of a British grenadier. On a
French womans head, with her hair
waved just enough and the toque pinned
on at just the right angle. it is the
most enhancing and becoming head
gear we have had in some time, but
absolutely ridiculous when put on any
way. anyhow.
The milliners are showing models
that win entrance the fashionable
women. Fur. velvet or silk toques are
shown in many models. Among a few
examples saw last week were some
of the large Russian type They are
extremely light. many of them being
composed entirely of marabout feath-
ers One | saw was a toque of mara
bout with quills of couroucou and
manteauX des velours. A sensible lit
tie toque 'trotteur" was in gobelin
blue polichon. with cabochons of vel
vet. Another eXquisitely beautiful
toque was composed entirely of gray
toque feathers. trimmed with gourah
wings. Another was covered with
/ dahlias an effective model for a mid
die aged woman. Medium sized silk
hats are being shown trimmed with
wings of flowers.
COLoRs TO SUIT SIZE
''Brunelle," a glorifed edition of
bordeaux, with taupe and old gold, are
the modish colors. Winter is typical
of age-not necessarily of old age, but
to put it more POLITICALLY, a mellow fall.
Fashion has decreed that age is no
more, and the only fashions we trouble
about are fashions for the young. How
is a woman of ripper years to accus-
tom herself to a state OF things which
requires maillot and the indiScretion of
clinging drapery? Must she Adopt one
of those rough looking toques which
descends over the eyes like a Russian
servants bonnet? In short, what can
we do for the much neglected matron?
What with statue gowns and direc-
toire robes we have left nothing to the
imagination. The line of beauty is no
longer curve, We must be straight
and slim. There is no way out of it.
Few of us understand the cult of
color. and there is color in all things
in music, the human personality, the
human voice. Colors fiuctuate with the
light and certain colors are suitable to
certain climates. Nature has few dis
Il
in a garden that has run wild never
gives forth wrong note-the discord
comes from the hand OF man.
Women who want to dress in fash
ion and in harmony might do worse
than seek inspiration in the russet
tones of the forest compose a dress
on the model of lichen and moss. AS
is well known, there are colors that
make US look slim while others, again
make US appear stout, while gray and
fawn, but more particularly the for
mer. make us seem to be double the
actual size. This is so true that in the
corps de ballet of an opera the thin
girls are given gray tights and the fat
ones are singled out to wear black.
SHADES FOR STOUT WOMEN
This. obviously. applies to many
things; the wearing of gray stock
/ ings and shoes for women with sIen-
! Lemon color, some shades of green and
all acid colors reduce the figure. Pur-
pie is, and ever will be, a sad color
/ the livery of widows, Dut not of the
merry persuasion. A dark brown is
reducing but unbecoming to the COM
plexion. Royal blue, now seen so much
! is the worst color, next to burgundy
that a stout woman can elect to wear
One may criticise, but the point is
to cure. Therefore, let me at once
| state the shades a stout woman can
adopt to advantage: Black, navy blue
a dense plum, seal brown, lemon color
| and cold sky blue. Reds are dan
! gerous. but if they must be adopted