Evening star., 1908-01-12
Home Dressrnaker
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y USiNG paper patterns, titc
home dressmaker having some
experience often relies too much
on her OWL knowledge, disre-
CARDS the directions gwen on the
label of the pattern and frequently
finds herself in trouble which could
have been averted if the label had
been carefully studied and its IN
structions closely followed.
If one has the material, style
that would best develop the material
should be selected-for instance.
gathered or shirred mode would not
be suitable for wiry or heavy ma
terial, while too plain : design would
not develop well in soft clinging ma
terials.
On the labels of most patterns are
given the widths and quantities OF
materials that cut to the best ad-
vantage without waste.
When the materials and patterns
have been selected, the label should
be separated from the pattern, 50
that it can be referred to at any
time without Inconvenience.
Then tie illustrations must be
studied carefully. and one of the
several styles of making decided
upon. This Question settled, any
pieces of the pattern which are not
needed should be discarded, and any
of the others that are to be used,
but made of contrasting material
collars, cuffs, revers, vcsts-should
be laid aside.
Any changes on the pattern pieces.
such as cutting off the sweep on
skirt if the round length is to be
used, or the shortening of sleeve or
coat, are next 1nsldered.
1t is also practical cross out
with eolored pencil any of the per-
forations that arc not required IN
making the Style selected; this pre-
vents confusion later on.
It is necessary to read the label
very carefully to avoid mistakes.
Then all the pattern pieces are
pressed with a hot iron, which re-
moves the wrinkle and gives more
body to"the paper.
Before starting to cut the gar
ment it is necessary to place all the
implements required -or the work
within easy reach.
Every woman who attempts such
important work as dressmaking
should equip herself with all the
necessaries in order to insure sue
cess. The following articles should
be close at hand:
First of all, medium pair of
shears, about nine or ten inches long,
well sharpened, so thai they do not
"fret" OF "chew' the material. but
cut clean, smooth edge; plenty of
pins, a tape measure, some tailor's
! chalk, tracing wheel, a skirt stick,
some basting cotton, needles, a
thimble and few weights are also
required, with The material and pat
terms as a matter of course
Woolen material should be spong-
ed, and in any other goods all the
heavy creases and wrinkles caused
by folding and packing must be care
fully pressed ou! before cutting.
Then the material is closely exam
ined as to the nap, figures, stripes.
The nap is always found on woolen
materials, cloth or velvet by lightly
rubbing the hand lengthwise of tie
material.
If this is perfectly smooth to the
touch. the nap is down; if, however,
it feels rough, the material has been
stroked against the nap. The
smooth stroke should always run to-
ward the lower edge of the garment.
If the material is plain, without
figure or stripe that is prominent
enough to require matching, the pat
tern parts can be cut double, one
for each side of the garment.
The double-width materials are
left folded in the lengthwise crease,
provided that the edges are even,
and the pattern can be laid on, Civ
ing due attention to the nap of the
goods, which should run parallel
with the perforations indicating the
thread of material on which the pat
form parts are to he cllt