The sun., 1908-04-05

up 70 the base Of the throat after the fashion
Of the raw GIk model. numerous froOks
In material heavier than net or silk mousse
line have what might be called deep tuck
era Of such semi-transparent stun matching
the frook material In color, while only the
Shallovest Of guimpes and the high standing
collar are Of white As has been remarked
before 10 these columns. an entire bodice
Of mousseline, net or similar sheer material
often Rrmounts princess skirt Of heavier
stun such as Aatin. crepe or Eilk, and 10
this case there Ia again the shallow ~
hsvlng note Of white. or possibly, II the
frook color is not too unbecoming, = Dutch
or pointed throat finish with no White ct
all.
One pretty crepe frock In dun, soft blue
Of rather light tone. the exquisite blue that
ls natter with q dash Of greeniah gray N
II, had folds Of blue silk mousselln0 filing
In the bodice above the wide band Of blue
embroidered lace which crossed the bust
At the top Of the deep girdle. This mousse
line drapery left q pointed opSning TO the
glrdle top, and this V wa 5 outlined, as will
be seen IN the sketch. by finely plated
fril Of filmy lace. 4 guimpe and collar of
net could be worn or not. az preferred.
This frock had high swathed grdle
and scarf ends falling from the left front.
an arrangement considerably in use where
a high girdle is employed, though even
more frequently one sees a girdls whose
ends are brought about TO the left front
and knotted low. often a. low 40 the bend
Of the body.
This latter girde Arrangement h exem-
plihed In the delightful smoke gray frock
Of which a sketch Is given. This was a
most attractive little model, Of fine French
simplicity, and was built up Of q fabric
which was not silk volle nor silk mousse
line, but firm yet gauzy material some
where between the two.
The skirt, laid in small plaits around the
hips was finished at bottom by many inch
wide overlapping tucks possibly sixteen
or eighteen Of them. Not another item Of
trimming, but perfection Of cut and hanging
The high swathed grdle was Of liberty
matching the frock material and knotted
slightly low at the left front. wide
band Of smoke gray lace run with threads
Of gold crossed the bodice at the girde
top and ran up over the shoulders.
The sleeves Of the gray material were Of
a type already entioned-lying close 10
the arm on the outside, but pulled into a
large armhole underneath on the bottom
Of the sleeves, and running up on the
finely tucked cream net gIimpe and collar
we're points Of fine cream lace.
The guimpe Of fine net is the accepted
thing, though occasionally a guimpe Of
fine meohlin. alencon or other sheer lace
appears. Once in a while one sees glimpe
OF baby Irish. but this Ia unbeoomlng and
nine out OF ten Of the smartest French
models have the net guimpes hand tucked
and sometimes slightly inset with fine lace.
The heavy. much ornamented guimpe
Is a thing Of the past, though domestic
manufacturers do not seem to have fully
grasped this fact
This simplicity il, like much Of the i'm
ported simplicity not 30 great a saving az
It may appear. for the real nets or the
very fine and perishable point despHt
nets are used, and these not only sell at $3.50
a yard but do not stand wear or cleaning
as the sturdier guimpes once In vogue
did. Moreover IL Is a nuisance 10 tuck the
net by hand, andif any lace Ia added II must
be done with great daintiness and skill.
But these little glimps are undoubtedly
the most becoming things Of the kind imag-
Unable and consort much more harmoniously