Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-26
Overcoats for SUMMER

OVeTcOaCS Tor summer
Summer overcoats are not made any
more snug at the waist than the style
chosen makes obligatory. You cannot have
a frock overcoat with q sack back, natural
ly; but you are not obliged to make It fit
as snugly as II it were a morning coat. 1t
is. of course. only over evening dress that
the frock overcoat will be worn from now
to October: and light dustcoats Of the
and other purposes. including driving: for
the automobile has not yet killed the
horse completely. These dustcoats Will
be quite loose, and will have a cloth col
lar. They are worn. not for smartness.
not for warmth, but for just what their
name implies-to keep the dust Of q sum-
mer road. or Of the race course, or Of the
birmingham crowd, off the suit worn be-
meath.
Double (that is. fold) collars are one of
those threatened institutions that. like
threatened men in the proverb. live long.
We have been invited to attend their OBJ
sequies every year for a long time. I can
not discover that any fewer of them are
fewer worn by the London people (West
End or otherwise) than ever. The soft
double collar Is q thing that have had
plenty of fault to find with. and its pop
ularity has been grossly and ridiculously
exaggerated any time these two years.
Yet It is certainly not obsolete. The West
End does not like 1t. But all the rest OF
the male community, when 1t goes a-gOlf-
ing or otherwise takes its pleasure afield.
is very apt to wear some form OF soft
fold collar. Mr.. "Wing'-the excellent
Piccadilly hosier. who has doubled his
premises-appears to have invented a new
sort of double fold collar that may win
the west over to the unstarched nantes
tation Of this form. This Is made of a
stiffish cashmere. about two and one
quarter inches high (not more). and it
has. in addition to the usual stud hole in
front, q second and invisible buttonhole
at the top. just inside the fold. This en-
cages q button sewn on in a correspond
keeps the collar snug and steady instead
of It's being able to sag away like the
customary flannel fold collar-which Is a
great improvement.
Grip and Trunk.
The receptacles used to convey a mans
possessions when he visits country houses
or otherwise goes on his travels are just
as much a matter of fashion as the
clothes which they contain. I have told
you before that 1t is not a mark of good
style to have ones trunks. suit cases,
ETC., blatantly and evidently new. Never
to turn up except with brand-new,
scratches leatherware doesn't mark the
man of good society from birth. 1t
marks the new arr1Val-frOm Judea or
one of the many much worse places.
Similarly there are plenty Of men with
big shooting estates who never seem to
get a new shooting Jacket or cap. I sup
pose these things must wear out some
time but these men are sedulous to hide
the guilty fact.
People who. like the one asked about in
the Dolly Dialogues. take a moor may
have new suits. But 1t is an awfully
swagger thing not to. The same with
trunks and the like. But inside conven-
fences in trunks may lawfully be new and
newly invented. One such new invention
that rather takes my fancy have seen
shirt case. and is made Of leather. the
shape of a folded shirt, with a bellows
like arrangement like the sides of an &C.
Gordon or the expanding part Of fold
ing Photographic camera. SO as to be no
more bulky than it has to be for the
number of shirts carried. In the covers
are pockets for oravats and dress ties
pockets which I notice that the men who
know best do not use, because they bulk
EXCEPTIONALLY. These cases keep a dozen
of shirts clean and handy, and really do
not add to their bulk very much. I was
told. when described some twelve
months ago a soft leather collar box
new to this market. that I had tickled the
risibilities of American trade by giving
particulars Of thing you were all IA
miliar with from infancy. Perhaps the
shirt case comes from America, too. II
isn't any the worse for that; but 1t did
not exist when last had the happiness
TO visit your shores-longer ago than ]
could wish.