The sun., 1908-04-26

the past should clear hn mind Of his old
Impressions Of the hotels. There IL no
longer that rivalry between the coming
guest and the manager 10 SEQ how few OF
many candles can be lighted in bis room
and charged In the bin; there are no longer
candles, but only electricity. There Ia no
longer an eHtOFtion for hres on the hearth
which send all the heat up the chimney;
there are steam radiators In every room,
There Is no longer a tedious bargaining
for rooms; the prioe IL hEod and cannot
be abated except Tor a. Solourn Of weeks
or months. But the prioe is much greater
than II used 10 be--tWioa a. great almost
for the taxes are heavy and provisions are
dear and coal and electricity are costly,
and you must share the expense with the
landlord. He ID not there for his health,
and II for your comfort, you are not his
invited guest As have. intimated, an
apartment OF four iooms with q bath will
cost almost a. much. with board a. the
same quarters In New York, but you will
get far more for your money In Rome.
II you take single room, even TO the SOUTH
in many first class Roman hetels II will
cost you for room and board two dollars
or two and half day, which Is what you
nav for a far mesner and smaller room
alone In New York; and the Roman board
is such a. you can get only at our most
expensive houses for twice the. money.
Generally you can get a single room and
bath but at present very exclusive hotel
is gong UP in good quarter which promises
vita huge English signs, a bath with
svyry room and every room full south
One does not see just how the universal
Nnny exposure IL 10 be managed, but there
Jan DO no question OF the baths and with
the steam radiators everywhere, the north
ernmost room might we'll imagine itself
full south.
Nearly all the hotels have a pleasant
paror or tea room, which is called a
winter garden because OF a pair Of palm
trees set under the centre Of It's glass roof
and the painted bamboo chairs and tables
set about This garden Is found even in
the hotels which are almost Of the grade
Of pensions and Of their prices; but gener-
ally the penEions proper are without H.
Their rates are much lower, but quite as
good people frequerit them, and they are
often found In good streets and sometimes
open into or overlook charming gardens;
the English especially seem TO Like the PEN
dons, which are managed like hotels. They
are commonly without steam heat, which
might account for their Being leSs fire.
quented by Americans.
There are two supreme hotels in Rome
one in the LudoHd quarter as II Ia called,
and the other near the Baths Of Diocletian,
which Americans do frequent 10 their cost,
for the rates are Of New York or London
msgnihoenoe, The first is rather the more
spectacular Of the two and is the resort Of
all the finer sort Of afternoon tea drinkers,
who find themselves the observed Of OBJ
servers Of all nationaHties; there is music
and dress, and there are titles OF every
degree, With ss much informAhty as people
choose II they 60 10 look or as much state
II they 60 10 be looked at; these things are
much less oumbrously oontrived than with
us. The other hotel, have the somew bat
unauthorized fancy, Is rather more addicted
to very elect dinner parties and suppers.
Below these two are an endless variety
Of first rate and second rate houses, both
In the newer quarter Of the CITY, where the
villa paths have been turned into streets,
and In the old town on all the pleasant
squares and avenues. There is tradition
Of unhealth concerning the old town which
the modarn doath rate Of Rome shows TO
be wholly unjust; at the worst these places
have more dark and damp and the hotels
are not steam heated.
II has seemed 10 me that there are not
40 many hotels odrHis in Rome as there
used TO be In other Italian cities, but they
also abound in pleasant streets, and the
stranger who has a fancy for lodgings
with breakfast in his rooms and likes to
browse about for his luncheon and dinner
will easily suit himself II it comes TO TAX
ing furnished apartment for the season
there is much range in price and much choice
in place. The agents who have them TO
let will begin rather dismayingly: -Oh,
apartments in Rome are very dear But
you learn on inquiry that a furnished fat
in the Ludovisi region. in houAe' with a
lit and fun sun. may be had for two hun
dred dollars a month. From this height
the rents OF palatial apartments soar 20 such
lSnely peaks as eight hundred and sink TO
such levels as a hundred and twenty or q
hundred; and for this you have linen and
silver and all the movRbles and utensils
you want The rents Of the like fats II
vacant would be a quarter or third less,
though again the agents begin by telling
you that there 10 very little difference be-
tween the rents Of furnished and unfur-
nished fats. The fats are in every part
Of the old town and the new; and some are
noble sixteenth and seventeenth century
palaces such as we arc accustomed TO OF
home only on the stage. My own experience
is that everybody especially in houses where
there are no lifts, lives on the top floor You
pass many other floors In going up, but you
hrs left TO believe that nobody lives on them
When you reach the inhabited quarter you
find them charming inside for their state
and beauty and outside for their magnih-
cent view, which may be pretty confidently
relied upon TO command the dome Of st.
Peters That magnificent stone bubble
seems 10 blow all round the horizon.
When you have taken your furnished fat
the same agency will provide you a cook
at so or tl2 a month maid at 81, lady's
maid at IS or 80. and so on; the cook will
prefer to sleep out Of the house. Then will
como up the question OF provisions. and
these seem really to be dear in Rome. Meats
and vegetables both are dear, and game
and poultry. Beef will be 10 cents pound
and veal and mutton in proportion; chicken
which has been bantng for the table from