The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1908-09-13
The Thin Lady Will Be the
Real Thing This Winter,
and the Lady With the
Rotund Contour Will Be
Strictly Passe.
BY Catherine Mann-Psyzant.

New York, Sept. 12.-New styles
of gowns for fall and winter wear
will transform the women of the me-
trOpOlis into hipless and bUstless
creatures, as straight up and down
as mere men All the ailuring curves
and the attractive plumpneSS of by
gone days are under the taboo OF
fashion The editorial declaration OF
Mr.. Brisbane that women should be
built like an onion and dress ,..s
part" has been disTegarjed. This
much is shown by the advance exn1-
billions of the modiStes. The tunic,
the semi-princess and empire modes
have succumbed to the edict of fash
ion and are now being built in the
manner approved by the current fad.
The woman of no figure, created
along the architectural lines of
beanpole. will find the new mode
blessing and may discard the pads
and other accessories with which
she has "bUilt up" her figure. For
the plump sister, conformity to the
straight-up-and-do style will not
be so easy There will have TO be
many establishments and much lacing
and discarding of surplus undergaT-
ments to secure the desired effect.
This new note though, means
complete change in certain parts of
the feminine wardrobe, and cOmbina-
ton GndergaTments must be provided
with care but the designers are max
ing all sorts of patterns and changes
to meet the new need.
The new fall fabrics are not gen
orally on exhibition as yet, but from
all signs one Of the most popular
fabrics for the autumn suit is serge,
soft .pliable, with a finish almost as
beautiful as silk. For the street a
dull finished serge vii De worn and
many are shown with chevron and
herrin-bozne weaves. There is a
serge that is well adapted for more
dressy wear, with lustrous surface,
soft enough to cling and pliable
enough for folds and draperies.
OF course, bToadcioths are to be
worn and the chiffon qualities are
likely TO be much used for dressy
costumes for matinees and calling
and for day receptions
There is every indication that all
the popular silks of the summer will
be worn during the coming season
for the house at least, and the heavy
weight pongee varieties for the
street The trimming alone will be
of heavier. richer style; for today wo-
men depend more upon an extra
piece Of underwear or the Outslue
cloak for warmth rather than heavy
weight clothes. Summer styles for
the past few years have spoiled us,
and the white shirtwaist habit has
made heavy waists Unbearable.
New hats for the autumn and win
ter have made their appearance at ali
the millinery stores and departments
and are attracting the usual amount
OF feminine attention and admiration.
The shape is very similar to those
shown through the summer. bat the
material is new, rep silk covered
frames A sailor modified in shape,
with d very short droop in the back.
raised A little at the sides and
straight in front was covered with
green rep silk of a rather dull dark
shade enlivened with a breast and
two long wings in golden brown
tones that fairly cover each side. 1t
may be said right here that golden
brown tints are extremely fashion
able 4 hat of this sort would be in
good style if worn with a green and
brown foulard and brown cloth jack
ct Brown accessories such as shoes,
stockings and gloves would accom-
pany the costume.
A second example of these new
hats was of blue silk. small in shape
and turned up at the left side. a fold
of the rep silk encircled the crown,
and from beneath huge mother OF
pearl buckle, showing grey and pink
tints. sprang long dropping grey quIIs
having pink Centers. The costume
worn with the hat was of blue serge
consisting of princess skirt and cut
away jacket a guimpe of cream net,