The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-20

with a group Of several small tucks,
and embroidered nets are used In various
effective ways. The hest OF these eu'-
broidered nets for blouse purposes are
those Of striped designs. which may
be made up with the embroidered stripe
alternating with tucks.
Many Of these embroidered stripe
nets may be found at the trimming u
ters. the stripes spaced far apart on the
net 80 that they may be cut In strips
and usei in any fashion desired. Such
material. with the plain net between
the stripes tucked. may be nsed for the
whole blouse, or plain net may be asso-
ciated with tho embroidered material.
the latter being introduced only by way
Of trimming down the fronts or collar
and sleeves, DO. An embroidery design
Of colored dots Ii particularly effective
on white or cream net, the dots repeating
the color Of the frock with which the
blouse is to be worn.
Coarse silk not In color trimmed with
bands and buttons Of silk Of the same
color and made either over self-color OF
white are attractive and some very
pretty models Of this type are shown
among the ready to wear blouses. In
deed. there were never before 30 many
pretty ready tt wear blouses In color
offered to the shopper.
Heretofore when one has wanted o sheer
pretty blouse Of chiffon net or mousselino
In color nj has been obliged to have u
made to order. but this season the design
ers have to a considerable extent met
this xuant Darfio,,larlv rrotfu chiffon
models In the smoke and silver grays, the
fashionable blues and green's and browns
are on view. and though the successful
ones are by no mea cheap. they are
no more expensive than they would be II
made by a dressmaker capable Of achiev7
ing as'good results. and one Is spared the
bother Of having them made.
The white chiffon blouse Of the out
is a case In point. In every detail 1t 10
attractive. 1t Is we'll cut, carefully made,
without a chsapening note anywhere
about II. In the same shop where this
blouse was seen there we're numerous
others deserving Of note.
Two smoke gray chiffon models espe-
cially appealed to us-both simple in line
but e%xcellently handled. with tucked
bodies and sleeves. a very little s~elf-color
soutache for trimming and the tiniest<ef
guimpes showing only In front and conn
bined with high standing collars. In one
model this white collar and guimpe was
Of fine baby Irish lace. In the other Of
cream net and A~lencon.
Models much like these In browns,
greens and blues were displayed and there
were many smart blouses In coarse black
silk net, with or without relief Of en-
broidery in colors.
The beautiful band trimmings Of en-
broidered net are used in combination
with plain net to match for charming
blouses, and the handsome crocheted,
satin and braid buttons and passemen-
terie ornaments in which the trimming
counters abound trim effectively blouses
of plain colored net.
Fine etamine, wolfe or marquisette em-
broidered in soutache Is the material for
some excellent blouse models in popular
shades Of gray. brown and blue. and such
materials will of course outwear the
sheerer chiffons and nets.
Lace dyed to match the costume is still
used by the blouse makers, but more often
az trimming for net OF the same color
than as the blouse material
Whore a ready made blouse cannot
be secured to match q costume women
often have recourse to tho dyere. buying
n white blouse that Is satisfactory and
having 1t dyed the desired color. So
skilful are the dyers nowadays that this
may easily be done with entire success
and at an expense comparatively slight
IL the materials used In the blouse are
good. Evep where the blouse is to be
called into play in order that the net
or chiffon, or whatever the blouse ma
terial may be, may exactly match some
subtle shade of the costume.
The high Empire or Directoire skirt,
which still retains considerable prestige,
necessitates an abbreviated blouse, but
this Is readily arranged with almost
any Of the new models and some few
are specially designed with such a skirt
or with a high girdle in view.
Coat and skirt costumes Of all types.
from the ~plainest tailored trotting frock
to the handsomest long skirted visiting
frock, abound in the shops now. and the
imported models give a better idea Of
the modish possibilities than did the
first domestic models shown, but of
revelations there is up to date a decided
scarcity.
Every thing is much what it was ex-
pected to be, and the new things, thou h
in many cases surprisingly beautiful
in color, texture, detail and line, hold
few surprises. The last word ia not yet
said, but radical changes seem less and
less probable.
A costume like the one 81 the large cut
is fairly typical within conservative linn
it's. 1t has none Of the rather spectacular
Direotoire features which appear in many
Of the handsomest models and are 80
pronounced that they invite cheap imi-
tation and are likely to grow tiresome.
but it follows the law Of the mode in its
lines. its color. its material. its detail.
Limpness Of the most emphasized sort
characterizes both skirt and coat. ro-