Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-04-25

crown of flowers that one hardly recog-
nizes the old favorite. The Marie An
toinette has appeared again with bunch
of flowers and curling aigret to give 1t
height, And, speaking Of flowers. they
are seen on every conceivable kind Of hat.
and Paquin Is affecting the dull. dead
shades for his summer trimming. as he
has for several seasons past. Roses
roses of all sorts. sizes and icolors-
adorn my lady's chapeau. and petty ar
rangement is to wreath the crown at the
base with foliage and place the blossoms
In circular fashion high above this hedge
Of leaves. Wired eccentric convolutions
of velvet may top the creation at one side
or the flowers and foliage may alone
prove Of sufficient beauty.
Much ribbon is used and In the dressier
varieties there are lovely figured and
Powered patterns copied from old-fashion-
ed silks. The tailored hats are stunning
and not at all bizarre. and many of them
have quite a dressy air. In this class Is
q panama boasting' wide. upturned brfm
mashed In in two or three places. A wide.
soft fold Of silk Is wound around the
crushed crown. and lace rosettes, one un-
der the brim and the other at the right
side on the top. are the only trimming.
For large hats the favorite shape shows
fiat hrim turned up slightly at one side
and with a very high flowerpot crown.
This hat Is worn squarely on the head,
but II is raised at the turned-up side
mass of feathers and aigrets. In fact
aigrets never were more fashionable than
at this moment. Some OF the smartest
and NOSE expensive Of the millinery crea-
tons have huge crowns entirely covered
with aigrets. and the larger they are the
more stunning.
All the eastern fabrics are back In
vogue. Natural colored pongee. shan
tung and Chinese silks are tremendously
popular materials. and these Chinese silks
HA ntroh "
shirt waists and shirt waist suits. In
stripes and plaics in two or three tones
the silks are wonderfully attractive, and
tub dresses Of them are much more serV-
iceable than the same frock in linen or
half linen fabrics. The pongees and
standings are particularly lovely this sea-
son. coming as they do in great novelty of
nuances. There Is, for instance. a plain
ground over which is spread a network
Of colors or different shades of one color.
pale brown stripe on a natural colored
foundation. Frocks OF these striped or
plaided silks are almost invariably
trimmed with the plain pongee applied as
bands or possibly as girdle or vest.
Button mOlds covered with the natural
stripes are very effectively employed as
a trimming. The buttons are put on In
single file. as 1t were. forming sort OF
band effect. Another new trimming is
MADE OF COILS OF the material pIdlteO
as one does the hair and then twisted
round and round to form what a girl
know called "gobs.' These ''gobs" trim
both, waists and skirts Some queer trim
mings for the summer silk frock are
chambray, linen and a good quality OF
Bingham. yet all these cotton materials
are the very top notch of fashion. There
are. too. mercerized cotton embroideries
In oriental colors In rug designs worked
on ecru cotton net used to trim pongee
gowns. Most of these silk and linen cos
tunes are made after the one-piece model
coat of lace or Of the material itself elab-
orately adorned with trimming Of some
kird.
The redingote and the rounded cut
away coats are both to be seen in linen.
They are trimmed with lace bands. with
bands of contrasting color machine
stitched. or with bands OF heavy lace.
self dyed or in natural color! All-over
lace coats are not novelties, but they are
very fetching little wraps, and when lined
with chiffon or thin silk they not only
add a dressy. gala effect to costume,
but a considerable amount Of warmth.
There Is a sort Of elongated Elton model
in lace that Is attractive. The ends are
in long stole effect. and the back is some
times pointed in shawl fashion and I'm
ished with a good-sized tassel.
As to Fabrics.
To come back to fabrics again, crepe
de chine leads for elaborate frocks. and
Powered chiffons. with a strong eastern
tone both in coloring and design, are In