The star. (Reynoldsville, Pa.) 1892-1946, 1908-12-02

"
I 1t were the banners to celebrate some
| of the great women who have shown
what women can achieve.
On one, in shades of gold, stood
forth the word radium and the name
of Nine. Curie; on another, with a
delicate Madonna lily on pale
mauve ground. the name of st. Cath.
crime of Sienna; on another st. Ter
esa; on another Katherine Barlass,
whose heroic story is told in Rosset-
It's ballad "The Kings Tragedy"
Elsewhere hung banners to COM
memorate George Eliot, Charlotte
Bronte, Elizabeth Fry, Edith Pechey
Phipson Zone of the pioneers in open
ing the medical profession to women),
Mary Wollstonecraft, Florence
Nightingale. Elizabeth Barrett Brown
ing, Josephine Butler, Mary Somer-
vile, Susan B. Anthony, Lydia Beck
er and many another.
With these were the banners of the
great organizations of woman suffra-
gists throughout the country, of some
of the chief professions in which wom-
en- are doing good work, and Of some
of the societies, such as the National
Union of Women Workers, conserva-
tive and Unionist Suffragists and
Liberal Women uffragists.-Queen.
What Is Meant by Directoire.
Directoire, incroyable, marvelleuse
words that are on every tongue,
yet they are frequently used inter
changeably without regard to dis
tinguishing characteristics. Directoire
is the comprehensive word, including
incroyable (the dress of the man dur
ing the directoire period), and the
marveluse (the woman's dress of the
same period)
The classic type of costume which
has so revolutionized the clothes of
the moment is a revival of the copies
Of Greek draperies assumed at the
close of the 18th century, when the
new government-the directoire (di-
rectory) -supplanted the old French
monarchy.
At that period Greek and Roman
philosophy appealed to cultivated
minds, and classic costumes, as ex.
pressed in the lines of Greek sculp-
ture, demanded a share of considera-
tion. The women of the younger re.
public appeared attired in costumes
on Grecian lines, and the style-at
once simple and artistic-prevailed
So the original direotoire was born
Of the Greek and adapted to the re-
quirements of the present day" of
the closing Of the 18th century; and
the directore of the moment is the
revival of that of hundred years ago,
with just sufficient amendment to suit
it to our present day" needs.
The characteristic features of the
directoire style are: Skirts scant and
clinging and en- traine, with a high
waist band, sleeves small, close fit-
ting, and long; collars high; pockets
large; revers exaggerated; buttons
numerous. One, all or any number of
these characteristics may be discov.
cred in one garment.
The Introduction Of the directoire
has caused radical change in cos.
tune building. The effect must be of
swathing, of seamless robe, no mat
ter how much scanning, darting and
goring may be employed in the con,
struction of the foundation.
Distinguishing characteristics of the
incroyable are the coats-long or tall
and cut off squarely and abruptly
above the waist line in front, with
long sleeves, massively cuffed, with
huge revers and pocket fiaps-all
much be-buttoned.
Marveilleuse stands for the scant,
clinging, swathing style.
The empire style is an evolution of
the directoire, even as the directoire
period merged into the empire. The
chief difference between the two
styles lies in the greater fullness of
the empire.-New Haven Register.