The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1908-09-25
worn chiffon guimpe laid in tucks or

in gathers.
AS this costume was intended for
theater and calling, a brown satin
covered hat was worn. It had a droop-
ing back and turned-up front; a fold
of satin laid about the crown and a
knot of the same held the front in place
with a bunch Of golden brown feathers
towering above it all.
For dreSsy wear the semi princess
model is still fashionable and on some
figures is more pleasing than the tunic
Or the sheath skirts. The all costume
| effect is liked SO well that there is
little likelihood of it's going out this
season; a. coat is often worn with such
! costumes.
A new design shows seven
cores tucked to yoke depth adjusting
the fulness to the figure with a moder-
! ate sweep. Groups of tucks at the CEN
ter, front and back and over the shoul-
ders are effective bodice decorations.
A guimpe of dotted net silk is also
used as the lining. A tiny band of vel
vet lies about the bottom Of the high
collar with a lace jabot in front and a
deep girdle conceals the joining of the
waist and skirt. Some of the softer
silks would make up very prettily by
| this design.
| The jumper princesses that are
| made "all in one'' are very attractive
for house dresses or informal even
| ing wear. AS a street dress it would
| be better in some fine cloth, such as
panama or mohair or chiffon. The
seams join in tuck style and the side
and underarm cores are extended over
the shoulder into a tucked sleeve cut
| in one piece with the gown. The front
and back portions come up to just
within the bust line, where they are
cut in square outline opening over
guimpe of cream embroidered filet with
| long pointed sleeves.
In waists the sleeve, it would seem.
| is the most important portion Many
women, especially those who have a
pretty arm still adhere to the short
| length and for the home. theater or
evening gown nothing is prettier.
A newer fancy and one more, appro-
| pirate for the winter season, perhaps,
( is the long thin sleeve and pointed lace
cuff that hugs the wrist closely. Some
| times there is fall Of lace coming to
| the knuckles, though the wired point
| is the very latest manner of finish.
New guimpes are made with long
sleeves of alternate rows of hand en-
| broidered bands and valenciennes in
| sertion finished at the wrist with a full
| lace ruffle. A chiffon and filet guimpe
| had a tight sleeve; along the outer
| back edge Of the sleeve was q double
| frill of chiffon extending from shoulder
| to wrist and at the wrist was an en-
broidered shallow cuff of chiffon with
points both towards shoulder and
| hand.
! A sleeve that has the appearance of
an upper and under piece is made, of
| silk over net, the back of the silk
| sleeve is sashed from the wrist to
shoulder, displaying the net beneath
and across this are straps of embroid
cred ribbon or silk folds caught here
and there with little pendants.
| One of the new sleeves is called by
some modistes the sheath sleeve They
| fit rather closely and three little caps
| fall over the shoulders, the elbow and
the wrist.
| A long coat is one of the things that
| the school girl must have. A new
coat for school purpose is made with
out underarm seams, the shaping be-
| irg effected by means of an underarm
piece. over which the seams Of front
| and back and the front extensions are
| Tapped and stitched to position. A
shawl collar and bishop sleeve COM
plete the coat. Cheviot is a serviceable
material for hard wear.
| A high necked gown is very neces-
| sary to ones stock of gowns, for there
are so many little informal evening
affairs where a low neck would bel en-
tirely out Of place. The skirt may be
in empire style, while the short waist
| over a chiffon guimpe could be made
| of alternating panels of tucked chif-
fon and embroidered panels of the ma
| terial. The sleeve may be like the
! guimpe or there may be an over sleeve
to- match the bodice itself.
| Whilei the white waist in all ma
terials reigns supreme, there is a de-
| cided tendency now towards the lin
gerie blouse in pale tones, such as del
| icata shades of green color and the
pink or rose waist is assumed often by
those who dare to-for pink, be it
known, is a trying color for all but
very youthful faces.
!
the shape of a bit of black ribbon, a
fold Of velvet few black dots upon
the bottoms.
Some of the new waists intended for
| wear with the sheath skirts have very
narrow bretelles over the shoulders
and a drapery falling over the arms
which extends to the waist in a mar
row point, but the sleeves themselves
are close fitting and long: The neck is
cut square and from the embroidered
band that outlines it's top a cleverly
| arranged little drapery Or jabot falls.
With many Of these most filmy and
handsome gowns will be worn coats
of lace and silk bands cut in empire
style, or directoire in flet or lace
braid. 1t is also fashionable to have a
coat of the same material as the gown.