The sun., 1908-05-03

Geld Rooms and Brick FIOOrs-But neFep
DOmenieaS C0OlSing.

! plhCod 10 tle only means OF nedtnks
Time was thirty or forty years ago.
when the whole floor Of palace containing
eighteen or twenty rooms might be had
for the traditional song sunshine cathedral
/ like height Of ceiling, gilt and velvet
| furniture and damasked walls thrown in.
In fact in LeRhorn TO this day there are
magnificent suites Of apartments with
white and gold haroQue ceilings, huge
salons. great starcases and marble stairs
! TO rent for 30 lire a month. But at that
modest price the apartment Is unfurnished
and not situated in the most fashionable
part of the town, though in perfectly
correct street
| The seeker after lvable' apartments
! in Florence in the year 1909 has a long
and weary path before him. and In the
I end, discouraged and worn out, he often
resigns himself 10 an apartment in quarter
Of the town that he did not desire. paying
more than he intended, in a house which
is not at all what he set out TO find,
b After an uninspring experience with
The few English agents he will discover
thsl the Italians are suspicious Of all agents
and prefer to conduct their own business
d ON as secret basis as possible. The daily
Papers give one no assistance, for not
more than two or three apartments are
advertised in = week One would be more
: likely 10 rent the Strozzi Palace through
! the public errand runner and bootblsnk
stationed on the street corner than through
a reputable agency
There remains only onc resource 10 take
2 cab nv the hour and search painfully IN
every street for the tiny bit Of pasteboard
with "appigionasi- written on II hung by
the doorway Of houses in which there are
vacant fats. Our own apartment on the
Arno was secured by mere chance through
the bakers boy.
For our 5PsihetiC consolation We have a
glorious loggia that opens three great
arches 10 a most superb view. To the left.
up the Arno. lie the hills Of the Casentino
dipped in SNOW. The Ponts Necchio with
the little pink and yellow houses clinging
10 its sides elbows its ponderous way across
the Arno at our feet, and little further
down the exquisite Ponte Trinita skins
across the river like a swallow.
For miles the hills stretch out before US
covered with olive and vine and great
pddroHdle villas. The Convent Of Mont
Oliveto guarded by dark line Of cypress.
Is delicately silhouetted against the evening
sky. and the Arno steals on into the pale
blue distance shaded with the brown and
red reflections Of newly budding trees.
Well worth tho climb Of seveuty-eight stairs
and a rent Of I 800 lirel
But although the soul il satisfied the more
practical body claims it's dues also. have
never conceived Of anything 40 cold az
these Florentine brick floors. Dreaming Of
dwelling in marble halls-in December!-is
nothing TO III
These Florentines must come Of sturdy.
stocal stock. for they never have fire
in their rooms, never mind how fieroely the
tramontana may prevail, and the swollen,
bleeding, chilblained hands Of the school
children and clerks in the shops make one
long 10 introduce American methods Of
heating.
The rugs afford little oases Of pedal
comfort, but the long passageways con-
Meeting various parts Of the fat we have |
dubbed Siberia. An Italian friend Of mine, |
who lives in newly constructed villa, in |
genuously informed me that their pro- |
prietor had installed steam heat and had !
solemnly promised them that q uniform |
warmth Of 50 degrees Fahrenheit would be |
maintained during the winter months.
Petroleum costs eight lire for four gallons |
and electric light is 80 dear that its installa-
ton, especially in rented apartment, |
is not to he considered. As for gas, wise |
and provident city council tied itself up |
inextricably in a contract for a hundred |
years with the present gas company thirty
five years ago. The price OF gas Ia prohibi-
tive 10 the private individual Of. limited
income
We pay our maid Of all work. Domenica,
otherwise known as -our woman Sunday
10 lire a month, without wine. From the
point Of view OF cooking it is money we'll
spent, but as a chambermaid she leaves
much, or most TO be desired.
The standards Of cleanliness are as far
apart as the poles. She can never under
stand why We waste so much water in daily
baths.
You can't possibly be dirty every day.
she protests.
What is the use busting so often when We
eep the windows open on warm days and
collect the dust Of the whole Lung Arno?
Why should the kitchen be spotlessi The
padrones have no business there anyway.
in the wash bills, too, this idea Of
.hree tabecloths weekly and daily clean
1apkinsl Clean towels have 10 be pried '
rom her. Her whole nature rebels against
he spotless, the shining. the glistening and
he immaculate.
But your many sins of omission are
forgiven Sunday on the score Of those
pOlD6Lu |
dsto diyineiy uf chicken. never mind how
much more plebeian their Ingredients are
md melt in your mouth. Such risotto too
uicy toothsome. generously sprinkled with
genuine Parmesan. You introduced us 10 |
avoli, that inimitable compound OF cottage
heese and chopped spinach, and taught |
Is the true inwardness Of salads and the
roper way to dress them,
You taught uE also TO love the minor
oh |
Orino. and that the coarse black bread Of |
he people was infinitely superior to the
'est white -four products Of the English
'akery, Macaroni. spaghetti, vermioelli
yere stlIF that dreams we're made Of in your
kilful hands, and I prefer your Monte
'ianco Of chestnuts and whipped cream 10
ny ice from the best patisserie In Paris.
little did il matter II the corners Of the
rawing room we're more or less unswept
rhen we knew that your black coffee was
unchangeable, uniquel
And this Gordon bleu Of the people pro-
uces all her magic art with the aid Of two '
mall grated holes in the stone bon h that |
erves as stove, peasants oven in iron
nd Il spit A handful Of charcoal famed
o fever heat with woven straw fan, a
ow copper and earthenware pots. a hand. !
M Of wooden spoons and box of the to- |
latO conserve dear TO the heart Of every
Italian cook, cheese Crater and a coffee
dll-and the inventory Of the kitchen is |
Ompete =
Donenica is neither better nor worse
nan the usual Italian servant. Tea, wine. y
lgar coffee, biscuits and fruit must be :
,cked away and doled out as occasion
emands. Her great pleasure is 10 bring !
, the tea tray with an empty sugar basin
rominently placed in front and 10 20 away ,
ith martyred expression of Il wash my :
snds Of the sugar. That is your affair. i
on keep It locked up"
For every lirs she spends she expects
, pocket a legitimate soldo. hut heaven