davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19
LACE NEGLIGES.

Lace matinees sound delightfully."- CO.
quettish and just bit extravagant, but
in reality they are the most practical
things imaginable and to be evolved from
whatever transparencies may be in the
catch-all trunk. They are made on en-
pire lines, as are most of the negliges
of the moment. the tops being OF what
you will-plaited net, chiffon or embroid-
cred muslin. They are scarcely more than
yokes as they extend an inch below the
arm size, and onto them are plated,
closely or Scantily, according to the
length of the piece OF all-over lace or
fiouncing at hand. the lower portion OF
tho jacket 1t should extend some dis
lance below the hips, but II too narrow
To accomplish that result let it go to
the waist line and then piece 1t out with
deep lace or net frilling. The sleeves.
which are merely elbow puffs, may match
either the upper or the lower portion of
the garment
Two dainty embroidered handkerchiefs
must be sacrificed for the making of
novel piece of neckwear which is COM
binaton of butterfly bow and rabat. One
entire handkerchief is pleated into the
largest fall, to which is tackled the half
of a second handkerchief. so treated that
il forms a three-cornered oblong. From
the remaining half must be contrived
four-leaved butterfly bow. which finishes
afOs on o. @ENl ~ o&AkO&&YQ&&
merit of being launderable without hav-
ing 10 be ripped apart. Another handker-
chief rabat shows the shorter of two sec
tons plated and overlapping longer
one similarly treated. both of which are
attached to narrow black velvet ribbon
encirclnS the collar and tied in a bow be-
meath the chin. 4 couple of muslin hand
kerchefs furnish the ends for A velvet
ribbon necktie, which has gold slides OF
character that will slip over the tops OF
the pleated muslin ends and hold them in
place or release them at will. This con-
trivance makes it possible 10 have the
lingerie portion of the necktie Numbered
whenever necessary.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19
PARAGRAPHS.

4 new tyne of motoring veil which does
away with the necessity of til. disfig,ir-
ing goggles consists Of what is actually
a hood of beige silk. crepe dc chine or
chiffon. which has an attached mica front
that is practically invisible under an outer
veil of white dotted net secured 4 the
ba ok of the head. The entire outfit may
he put on over the hat or the head may
be first covered with liberty silk scarf
which for long journey is more COM
Portable than any sort of hat or cap even
the mannish motoring cap of coat mate
rial with leather visor.
An attractive looking little crush belt
which is 50 readily made that no woman
need be without these pretty accessories
is of soft silk or satin about a half yard
in width and just trifie longer than the
waist measure. After the rough edges
have been run together the smooth side
is turned outward and three-inch bits Of
bonine worked through the end openings
for about half the distance toward the
center back ana caught down with silk.
The ends are then run through wide
buckle. and when the belt is adjusted il
naturally falls into peats. while il is kept
IN shape over the hips by means OF the
honing.
\ SuSpender waist To be used for the
purpose of smartenng IA half-worn bodice
is of imitation Venetian point lace with
German valenciennes. The broad bands
which taper at the waist line into girJ!A
OF point ard valenciennes go smoothly
over the shc ulders aud ill up the spac-
b tween throat and arn-top. falling over
a wide sheri s'eeve of matching mate
rails. Tie only portions, OF The original
waist on exhibition are the vs. formed by
the draping of the suspenuers and the
lower portion of the sleeves. The same
idea may be carried out successfully with
valenciennes insertion and broad black
velvet ribbon or with muslin and lace
entre-deuy.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19
The Fabric of the Moment.

TIME was when the shopping bag or
the woman in moderate circum-
stances was modest affair of seal
skin. morocco or alligator. with the sim
plest of leather or dark metal mountings
and perchance a monogram ON one side.
II did duty winter and summer. and when
IL was sha bly, another of similar ilk was
purchased and carried until usage put it
out OF commission. But that was In
less eNtravagant age. The woman OF the
present day has an infinite number of
hand bags which she selects as carefully
she would watch or a bracelet and
carries in accordance with certain cos
tunes. With her ordinary runabout street
suit for early autumn she is quite likely
TO carry a bag of gray or tan suede of
the shade matching her mohair suit but
IL she Is going 10 an open-air horse show
in white serge suit, only white suede
bag with gold mounttngS will do. unless
she favors magpie combinations. when
she may quite properly carry bag OF
black suede with silver moUniings.
a most allurins type of opera bag goes
with one OF the artistic scarfs which
women everywhere are using as evening
head coverings in lieu OF the smart look
ing but unreasonaby large hat. This bag
il of pure white satin embroidered in pea
cock colors and lined throughout with
satin If the same tint Ii is just large
enough to accommodate the glasses. the
handkerchief and the tiniest of powder
puifs. and when turned inside out reveals
"A mirror inset at the bottom.
To accompany the new checked taffeta
raincoats which many women are using
for morning shopping excursions as we'll
as for travelling and motoring, are Shep-
herd plaid envelope bags having pointed
flaps that close with spring snap. There
are l,ather band handles with stitched
edges which make il reliable for carrying
about These bags have compartments
for the gossamer rubbers as we'll as the
purse and are so roomy. without being OF
bulky appearance. that they will hold
variety OF minor articles. Another OF the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19

waist line and thus encircles the back Of
the wearer. A simpler method of ar
rangement is to swath the sash about the
.hlps and partially over the raised waist
n nne, then draw 1T high at the back and
Knot II into single long loop at one
END. Such sashes. be it understood, are
invariably of full-width materials for
the original ribbon form of it is rarely
seen save on quite young girls.
Bretelle Trimmed Corsages.
Bretelle trimmings continue to be ex-
tremely popular and are seen on a large
number of the ultra-smart French bod
ices In some instances the bretelles are
composed wholly of folds, which. starting
from the waist line, but concealing only
the sides of the figure, extend widely over
the shoulders, and for some distance over
the sleeves. The Japanese arm-size idea
is still seen on the arrangement of those
bretelles, which, being of the material of
The gown, are made to form the entire
short sleeve, the narrow space or v at
the back and front of the bodice being
filled In with the deep guimpe of net or
lace whose supplementary sleeves often
extend well over the hand A type of
bretelle which ultimately becomes a sash
Is one which, being draped over the
shoulders as to leave the tope Of the
sleeves and under the arms forms of the
Doulce exposed, Is attached to a draped
Sirdle that at the back holds in pace the
two long sash ends of the accessory.
Two Types Of Evening Gowns.
Nine out of ten of the dressmakers who
have recently returned from Paris report
that evening gowns may practically be
divided into two distinct types-the eX-
ceedngly simple and the unusually elab-
crate. The simple models are naturally
on Greek lines, and include the clinging
princesse gowns of satin or velvet, which
are actually raised girdle trailing skirts
attached to bodices of fimiest lace or
embroidered net. Sometimes the skirts
are absolutely plain and show only the
merest suggestion of tun;c or drapery
about the hips, while others are elabo-
rately hand-embroidered In raised effects
done with heavy silk or chenille or appli-
qued with artificial silk or velvet flowers
so fattened against the fabric as to ap-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19
SaShes and ScarfS.

All the afternoon white costumes-nearly
one-half of which are of lace-are follow
ing the smart rule of wearing scarf sash
draperes of liberty or of mousseline with
Them finished off with what the gown
makers call passementerie ''glands"-the
IA and So silent in the pronunciation
of the French term. If there is need of
belt then the sash is first draped around
the waist; if not. the ends may fall at
the back or on the side. In every case
the ends require to be long enough, how
ever. to fall low upon the skirt.-From
Vogue.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19

and palely tinted blue costumes but in
most instances they are placing scarcely
any black about the bodices and consid-
cradle quantity upon the skirts. On the
satin demitoilets of this type there Is
almost invariably wide black satin or
panne velvet band put plainly around the
skirts hem. Above this may be a black
bordered tunic, vertical black lace band
ings or applied borders of black and white
embroidery.
Gold and Silver Mountings.
Among the smartest of the gray gowns,
which undeniably are to be the leaders
this season, are many of plain and satin
striped pearl wolfe which are marvels of
beauty and yet so exceedingly plain that
the casual observer wonders vaguely why
they are so effective. TIL key of the
design is to be found invariably In the
trimming treatment of the bodice. which
shows in one way or another that the
outside material is built over a cloth of
gold or silver lining. the CLINT of which
is reflected seemingly In the tinsel of the
bodice embroidery landings or the or
namentation of its guimpe. These gowns
also show the hint Of azure which Paris
seems to favor SO strongly this season,
for whenever line OF black does not ap-
pear somewhere on the collar and bodice
there is certain to be one of pale blue,
often supplemented with a breast knot
or girde of the same hue.
Scarf-Draped Skirts.
Skirts are scarf-draped in so many diff
ferent ways that the novel variations
upon one fundamental idea, so simple
as long strand of satin, silk or lace.
are positively amazing. One of the most
attractive methods of draping a soft silk
sash is to start it from just below the
waist line on the left side, securing it in
position with an enormously large and or
namental chou. from which depends an
end finished with deep fringe or long
tassel. The other piece crosses the front
of the skirt slantingly to the opposite
side, where another chou and end are
formed Or the scarf may be brought
from the left side down almost to the
hem of the skirts center. where, having
been folded backward to form a point, it
runs upward to the opposite side of the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19
A Shopping Hat.

For shopping is also shown a UNIQUE
hat Of brown leather with a band of eros
grain ribbon around the crown. finished
with waterfall of loops at one side
some of which hang four inches below
the brm. Hats covered with a fine ouai
ity of cashmere strike the newest note
for the autumn.-From Vogue.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19
Cloth Tops.

Cloth-topped shoes are appearing. and
in greater variety than ever. Checked
and striped uppers have given way to the
light and white cloth ones, and these are
unusually high. being from six to eight
inches above the ankle. The lower part
of the shoe is of unstitched soft patent
kid-From Vogue.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19

parent fabrics is not a novelty, but Pa
rlslan dressmakers have thought out a
new manner of combining the two mate
rails. They are employed together chiefly
in the darker shades. the costumes being
intended for semi-ceremonious occasions,
such as luncheon and Informal days at
nome, for while women are popularity sup
posed to dress for the benefit of men,
they realize perfectly that their keenest
critics are other women AS at present
used the silks that are of black striped
with blue, rose, green or white form
the principal portion of the afternoon cos
tune which is invariably in one piece,
although not necessarily short-Waist cd
over 1t is draped a low-necked, elbow
sleeVed bodice of black chiffon or silk
lace. which is caught into the waist with
an ornamental girdle. and thence extends
IN straight all-round tunic, terminating
Just above the knees. There is a net
guimpe which matches the color of the
SILK stripe and emphasizes the shade seen
dimly through the transparent yelling
Various Sleeve Drapings.
One of the fads of the moment which
Is occasionally seen in the demitoilets
brought out from Paris is the difference
In sleeve drapings on one costume For
instance the bodice may be of lace veil
ing. satin or silk, worn over a white net
or lace guimpe and trimmed with en-
broidery bands. If there are bell sleeves
one may be allowed to droop loosely, be
banded horizontally with rows of en-
broidery or satin and have a deep turn
back cuff. which permits only the narrow
est of white lines to show beneath 1t,
and the other sleeve may be slightly
drawn toward the shoulder, trimmed with
vertical bands and show a deep turn
back cuff of white lace. 1t is continual
ton of the idea first introduced several
years ago. when evening gowns had
sleeves of widely varying design. one be-
ing a small puff. while the other was
nothing more than a ribbon band.
Black and Azure.
Black with pale blue has ever been re-
garded as a stunning combination when
artistical!y blended. and the most for
lorn of fiascoes when too much OF the one
or the other was used. The French, how
ever, perfectly understand what are the
exact color proportions. This season they
are making up vast number of pastel
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19
III ZIDc-E 21czgCZP tXjH

veloped in silk mousseine. The SIM
plicity of their design is one of their
chief charms for usually they consist
merely of an empire robe with a tucker
neck. short sleeves and satin sash
over which is worn a sleeveless long,
loose and very scant coat of valenciennes.
cluny or embroidered filet lace.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19

TICS nave been princlpally EN-
ployed in the development of the
cold weather street costumes
designed by the leading French modistes'
AID as the present trend of fashion Is SO
SIR. ngly toward clinging effects, such ma
terials are certain to be more than ever
popular In the two and three piece cloth
costumes of the elaborate type, such as
are used in America for the most cere-
,ronious afternoon occasions, as well as
for morning concerts and the like, are
seen all of the delicate shades of blue,
the entire gamut of pale browns, an in
finite variety of rose and crushed berry
tints, in addition to greens and grays of
many shades and the omnpresent black
Dark grays. greens and browns are TO be
seen principally in the exceedingly plain
but none the less smart. rough cheviots
and serges. (which are made up solely for
morning and hard usage.
The Fabric of the Moment.
Because OF it's clinging qualities satin
is now the most important fabric of the
moment and so long as the directoire
,tyle remains in vogue so long Will the
soft supple silken material continue its
supreme reign. 1t is used for almost
every costume worn by Miladi Modish
from the time when she is first visible to
her household in the morning until she
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19
One Precaution.

SmudSeo-Do you use sterlized milk
Grudgo--No. but our milkman assures IN
that he uses nothing but filtered water.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19
Coated Tea Gowns.

Tea gowns which are also worn in
formally for dinner gowns, just as tux
edcs are worn by men when the claw
hammer coat can possibly be dispensed
With arc among the fascinating creations
which Paris is exhibiting for the tempta-
ton of American pocketbooks A large
number of these garments are of crepe
de chine; many are of lace-bordered
chiffon, and the daintiest of them de-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19
Painted Chiffon Scarfs.

Much the same treatment may be car
ried out with the aid of the painted chif-
fon scarfs, of which It would be diff
cult to conceive anything more eXqui-
sitely dainty. Two of these will be quite
eufficient to utterly change the effect on
an all but passe evening gown, provided
that there be an absence of elaborate
trimmings as one may be used for the
bodice and sleeves and another for the
skirt draping. Not all the gauze scarfs
are fiorally embroidered Some of them
have gold and silver butterflies scattered
over the weave and others show small
sections of peacock feathers.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19


other type of evening gown is COR
geous affair OF brocade showing gold and
silver threads of embroidered panne vel
vet and satin. or OF gold, silver or jet
pailletted gauze, made up over cloth o.
gold or silver.
The Greek Influence.
The influence of the Greek idea upon
evening gowns is especially marked In
the case of many of those copied from or
similar TO the celebrated creations OF
Margarine La Croix. \ bridge frock or
emerald green satin, for instance, has a
gold-fringed front pointed tunic with sash
back and gold tulle bodice embroidered
with gold motifs that is cut in one with
the sleeves, which are gold laced at the
inner side Another gown, which is the
acme of simplicity as we'll as of modesty.
has a tunic bordered with embroidered
silver bands aad slashed sleeves caught
together with antique silver buttons. The
most extreme gown, and also the SIM
plest, is blue ottoman princesse border
ed with blue embroidery, which has its
split left side caught together at inter-
walls but then it is worn over an entire
underdress of satin yelled with silver
pailetted blue gauZe.
Plain and Brocaded Effects.
In lieu of the border materials which
enjoyed such vogue a year ago many
of the leading dressma kers are using
plain silks and brocades together. Here
again the almost universal scarf idea is
brought into use, but rather differently
than in the case of the princesse robes,
and. happily. the combination offers sug-
gestions toward the furnishing of the
dinner costumes made last winter. The
gowns most adaptable to such touching
up are those of lace or chiffon made in
two pieces, as such transparencies rarely
carry heavy trimmings or any that may
not be removed without leaving obvious
traces of their absence. The waist of
a white chiffon gown, for instance, may
be draped after the Greek manner with
rose-figured white brocade, the sleeves
made tight-ftting and cut off above the
elbow. and about the hips may be draped
a brocade tunic which, extending almost
to the knees in front. is slightly caught
up at the back into box pleats and then
allowed to fall over the train of the skirt
in two ends.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19

OR wears past broadcloths and
kindred smoothly finished fab
RIGS have been principally en-
II ployed in the development of the
cold weather street costumes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-19

pear to have been woven into 1t. Tie
other type of evening gown is sor-
geous affair OF brocade showing gold and
silver threads of embroidered panne vel
vet and satin, or OF gold, silver or JET
pailletted gauze, made up over cloth o.
The times and democrat. [volume] (Orangeburg, S.C.) 1881-current, 1908-02-28
a LITTLE SERMON.
II Was Against Hi1 Principles TO
Work On tho SABBATH.

II Was Against Hi1 Principles TO
Work On the sabbata.
Bishop Thomas Bowman. On the
celebratiea at Orange Of his ninetieth
birthday. spoke wisely Of religious
federation
THE elder enc grows" said the
fanouE Nothodist bishop. "tho naoTe
one disraSaras tae Htaie. uatuDos-
tant. useleazs things that separate
oao dissemination from another. One
hxes oao'S mind on tho great things
that bind ell determinations together.
And they who, noglect!ng tho great
things. neglecting charity and up
rightnesa. and honor, wransle over
small dononinational differences.
seem to an old man as absurd as the
Taoist and the Shintoist
Perhaps you know the story.
"a Taoist-I think il was o Tao
ist-onco fell down 4 well. and q
Shintoist-or nome such person
ran at full speed to his assistance.
"'Oh. brother cried the Shintoist,
leaning over the wel-curb, be Of
good cheer. A ladder is at hand. and
I shall have you out in jihy.'
1.-THE Taoist was padding about
in the dark down below, up to his
chin in the icy water.
No, no. he grunted, putting
painfully. Fetch no ladder, bro
thor. I'll climb no ladder today,
for this Is Tuesday. the day conse-
Grated by all true believers to the
Most High
"Aghast. the Shintoist poured
down prayers and arguments into
the well; but prayers and arguments
alike were Of no avail with the de-
vout Taoist. The other, obliged to
leave the man to his fate, departed
sadly shaking his head at the sound
OF the grunts. puts and splashes
which ascendod from the blackness
Tar below.
1.-THE next morning the Shintoist
returned to tho well. He peersd
over curiously. Yes, the Taoist was
still there. The noise Of his struggles
still rose up.
"'Ho, brother shouted the Shin
toist. is all well with you beloWF
"'An is WE'LL replied the Taoist.
in q very weak voice; but | pray
you, brother, fetch that ladder Ut
once
"The Shintoist threw up his hands
in shocked surprise.
."'Fetch ladder today" he cried.
Heaven forbid Don't you know that
this is Wednesday, the Shintoist Sab
bath?'
$50 saying, the Shintoist departed.
leaving the Taoist blowing and
splashing In the well"
The times and democrat. [volume] (Orangeburg, S.C.) 1881-current, 1908-02-28
A Holt for Him.

Miss Ellabelle Mae Doolittle, the
Leesville poetess, effectively squel'
ched young man at q dance the
other night, remarks the Denver
Post. Miss Doolittle, when the lad
first became fashionable. was oper-
ated on for appendicitis. and the
young man knew this. In waltz
she had with him he said:
Miss Doolittle, it seems to me you
dance better since you had your ap-
pendix cut out"
SIS that so?" replied the great
poetess.
"Yes," he said.
WELL" came from Miss Ellabaila
Mae, why don't you have yours :ut
out?"
The times and democrat. [volume] (Orangeburg, S.C.) 1881-current, 1908-02-28
Passed Examination Successfully

James Donahue, New Britain
Conn.,, writes: II tried several kid
ney remedies, and was treated by
our best physicians for diabetes. but
did not improve until I took Foley's
Kidney Cure. After the second bottle
7 showed improvement, and five bot
ties cured me completely. I have
since passed rigid examination for
life insurance" Foley's Kidney Cure
cures backache and all forms or Kid
ney and bladder trouble. Dr.. A. C.
Dukes.