Los Angeles herald., 1908-10-25

French lace to shirr in graduated rufheA
upon the brim and enough velvet ribbon
to interlace over the crown and to form
a band about 1t that may be knotted at
the back in long loops and streamers
Despite the velvet trimmings. the lace
brim lends the lamp-shade shape a dis
tinctly summery air which is further en-
phasized by the cluster Of orchids posed
carelessly against the crowns edge d.
directly over the wearer's eyes.
The New Cavalier.
Instinctively one thinks of dashing
cavaliers, sixteenth century swashbucklers
and eighteenth century guardsmen when
milliners proudly exhibit the latest mani
festation of the cavalier hat which Is at
its best when of some stiff material COW
cred with thick satin or with panne vel
vet, for to be entirely correct the right
brim must stand out stifiy from the
crown and the left roll sharply against
It, to be held in place, apparently, by
cluster Of short thick ostrich plumes In
self-color. 1t Is the smartest thing imagin-
able in dark one-toned chapeaux, but IL
does not take the spectator long to realize
that 1t is really our homegrown Merry
Widow" agreeably transformed.
Every Woman Her own Milliner.
An amazing array of ostrich feathers
causes the observer to exclaim: "If q wo-
man had her choice Of those long plumes.
short tips, coronets aigrettes and
wreaths she could readily trim her own
hats" forgetting for the time being how
exceedingly expensive such trimmings arc
| If they are worth the buying, and how
| perishable In a climate of winds and
| dampness. Yet, despite its costliness and
| its fragility, it is the ostrich feather thar
| bobs up sereney, season after season, ana
| survives every change OF fashion, solely
| by right of its beauty and the fascina-
| tion which 10 has for the average woman.
Providing that the amateur milliner has
supply of hats suitable for other oeca-
sions than those of ceremony, she cannot
do better than devote her pin money to
the purchase of one of the willow or
South African plume wreathes made
over white frames that may be adjusted
to hats of any shape or size, for posi-
lively no further trimming will be neces'
sary.
Broad, Flat Bows.
For the time being the so-called mtllin-
ers' bow Is in a state of eclipse ana
bow that strongly resembles those worn
upon women's pumps has superseded IT.
that going on hats, however, being i'll
from three to five layers OF fat loops,
each one extending about half an inch be-
yond the other. These bows are never
seen on any but the tailored hats of
the better class, and often they form the
sole trimming, the ribbon being OF
thick, corded quality, somewhat resem-
bling Ottoman and of rather extreme
width They are also used In connec-
ton with short wings and In nearly
every instance are apparently fastened
down with large buckle or pair OF
cabachon-headed pins.
How Hats Are Worn.
The latest receipt fo- properly adjusting
the hat, as given by a we'll known New
York milliner to a customer is to stand
before the mirror, suspend the nat
straight above the head and then set 1t
squarely and firmly upon the crown, al
lowing 1t to 20 as far over the sides or
the head as II will. 1t matters not II
the upper half of the face is entirely
concealed or that the wearer has de-
pressed appearance of countenance, but
she positively must not look raksh, as she
inevitably will appear If a shape of NAM
moth proportions, unsustained by BAN
deau, is permitted to tilt in the slightest
degree toward one side or the other. In
none of the autumn hats are banbeaux to
be found, and as the hair is always worn
fat and broad, the problem Of adjusting
the headgear correctly aud then keeping
1t in position Is one Which number OF
women have not as yet solved to thelI
complete satisfaction.