The daily sentinel., 1908-04-16
Especial to The Sentinel.)
By Catherine Mann-Payzant.

/
or models, but rather the elimina-
tion of all that was extreme "a modi-
fication of new but unbecoming
styles and development of some
clever ideas.
In skirts there is a return to the
plain gored model which fits closely
in the front and sides. They re-
semble somewhat the old-fashioned
pull-backs of some years ago, but
new note is borrowed from the new
paquin skirt in having a few--little
gathers across the front and suffic-
lent fulness in the back. The same
rules obtains here as with the plated
skirts that they fit with a nice ex-
actness across the hips. Many are
the notifications in arrangement of
trimming in these gored models.
When made of striped materials the
stripes met in VS. on the seams
Stripes printed or woven on panamas
and serges and mohairs and Sicilians
still head the list for tailor-mades
She cheyron stripes are extremely
popular in mohairs and such lines
of materials. AS to the length of
skirts there is tendency to lengthen
the modes, but for the strictly trot>
teur skirt, which will be used only
on the street the length is about four
inches from the ground.
A smart feature of the high-class
tailored suit is the separate waist
coat, and while the weather is cold
enough a great many variations will
be seen in its development And a
number of them may be used with
the same costume thus making many
changes either dressy or otherwise
as preferred, and a number of waist
coats in white pique or embroidered
linen will be an addition to any
wardrobe.
The use of the overblouse is still
favorite idea. as 1t makes an entire
costume possible and also accords
with the lingerie, net or lace guimpe,
making those changes possible with
the one dress.
Soft silks and cotton fabrics are
best suited to guimpes, under over
blouses of voile, taffeta, silk crepe
and rajah. Many ways are used in
| finishing the overblouse, but one of
the most popular is the circular-shap-
ed bands around the neck, armholes,
and bottom of the very short sleeves
or capes.
For morning wear the absolutely
plain or tucked shirtwaist of linen,
madras and lawn, worn with high
embroidered collars, is the most pop
For fine wear waists of pongee,
shantung or any of the rough silks
make excellent waists for the tailor
ed suits. When a little more dressy
appearance is wished for the soft
lace pabot is used as a dainty access
sorry.
Coats are shortening in length as
the weather grows warmer, twenty
four or thirty-two inches being the
most used The semi-fitted coat that
comes just to the hips, or little
below, is still much liked. A cut
away coat that combines the features
of the severely tailored and the
dressy coat is made with a pique
waistcoat or vestee and buttons on
the breast with but one button and
then slopes gracefully away from the
front, showing the vest beneath.
These vests are sometimes elaborate
affairs of brocade or of cretonne en-
broidered. When the suit is made
with bordered goods the bordering is
used as vest band just inside the
opening and often gives the neces-
sary bit of color needed to an other
wise sombre suit.
One might suppose that the Etons
after their long popularity would be
rather passe, but nothing is more
liked by some women and many of
the new models are shown with the
cutaway effect while few have long
tails in the old swallow-tail effect.
Many of the new silks are made up
in this style. The lingerie waist is
most appropriate to wear with these
waistcoats which may have more or
less trimming of lace or braid or em-
broidery.
Although the advices from abroad
say the jumper dresses are out of
style. there is no dress so popular on
this side of the water. Having over
come it's crudities of the past and its
beginning years, 1t has become Ia
thing of beauty and no material is
too beautiful or too plain to be used
in its construction. 1t is the COM
promise between the shirtwaist suit
and the full costume, and is far more
dressy than the single skirt and
shirtwaist of contrasting material
and color. The Japanese armholes
will be worn through the summer;
their only fault was their unhandi-
ness under coat. but in the summer
they are neat and practical.
The semi-princess dress, which is
only a skirt and waist Joined to-
gether, is going to be a favorite
mode for the coming season. 1t is
easy to take separate jumper waist
and combine it with plated skirt,
join the two and have a semi-princess
dress. A new feature of the jumper
waist is the Introduction of the lad
der sleeve which is composed of
tucks which extend from the
shoulder to the elbow or a little
above. For the street the Jumper
dress is made of voile or chiffon pam
anna of taffet. For the house they
are seen in light colors in batiste,
yelling pongee and other silks over
lingerie waists or guimpes.