davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11
MnnRrtt BrPEH
HtnlatRH Naturr
BY DR.. TOULOUSE.

At the first thought one will answe that a costume is apparel a
garment; that is, an object destined to protect the body and aid in its
functions. This may perhaps be the first aim Of a costume. the object
sought to attain. But under the host of %artfcahtes which weigh down
heavily upon modern dress, sight of this obiect has been lost completely
Let us examine the mans costume first.
A man breathes through the lungs. The lungs should, therefore,
have free play and should not be incumbered unnecessarily. Instead,
however, we find that mans upper garments are so made as to incase
the chest, which has to beat fifteen times a minute against the elastic
pressure of the garments. A man gets his nourshment through his
stomach, which also needs perfect freedom of motion. Yet all the lower
garments take their support from the belt. If our modern costume in.
tended to serve as apparel, a garment, it should have been more adjustable
and movable and less restraining.
The stylish hat likewise has little regard for health and comfort
of the wearer. 1t is hard and heavy. 1t warns the head to a point of
overheatng, and then it is suddenly taken off in the street N a cold
day, exposing the mucous membrane of the nose to al Inflammation
The collar is a pinory which is constantly hinderng the action of the
larnyx. Neither do our costumes have much regard for the weather. or
seasons. We take, for instance, especial delight in a frock coat in the
winter. Yet the cut of such a coat is such as to expose that portion of
the body which is most delicate and most likely to take cold-tbe chest
AS for the dress of woman? 1t represents the highest point of
reckless phantay and is in bitter opposition to sense and good judgment.
The chest, which contains the heart and lungs, is frequently barely
covered, while the hips, which are far less susceptible to colo. arc padde1
unnecessarily The long dresses, in which women delight. are in every
case hndrances to their wearer Women's superhigh heels frequently
give them the appearance of being intended for Chinese torture.
is the costume meant to be an ornament? Upon seeing stylisblv
gowned women one might suppose so. In their dress the elements of
decoration and ornament seem to be the chief feature. But tbs ie NOT
feminine costume. Fashion, which holds sway in the field of feminine
costumes and directs everything high-handedly. is not inspired y es-
thetic ideals 1t is directed solely by a desire to excite curiosity and at
tract attention. These elements are the sole rulers in tn domain Of
feminine apparel, and are alone responsible for the changing in STYLES and
length OF dresses annually. They are changed in order to strike the eve
by their novelty.
Thus our modern costume does not appertain to modern man. it does
not exactly suit him and agree with him. However. we will bave r.
put up with 1T as long as We ire putting up with other customs sneecbes
and writings which are more harmful to society. !
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11
SAW BAR IN TREEToPs.
Did Circus Act, According to Farmer
Noted for Veracity.

Observation-Disclosures Brown, truthful
Burlington (Vt.) farmer, almost got
into a fight with his wife when he as
serted that he had seen the bar
that has been Waiting in the North
Woburn thickets during the past few
days.
Alcibiades, crestfallen, hurried away
to the center to tell the folks at the
store what he saw in the woods
earlier in the day.
Brown, according to the story, was
taking a cow to the pasture just after
sunup, when a loud "Gr-r-r-r-rr" from
the top of a high pine tree made him
look up. ) 1t was the bar he had heard
so much about.
With an angry toss of the head the
animal bit off a few branches, turned
three complete "feetsprings" and land
ed safely in another tree, where it
snarled and grinned in turn. Then the
bar stood on it's nose and wiggled it's
feet In the air with glee.
1t is the belief of Burlington resi-
dents, judging from A~lcibiades' de-
scription Of the animals mirth. that
the bear is glad to have reached the
town and is preparing to take up win
ter quarters there.
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11
Russian church Arohlteoture.

Nothing shows more clearly how
far from the main stream of Europe
h currents OF Russian life have
flowed than the architecture Of the
Russian churches. The new church
OF the Redeemer, erected in memory
OF the grandfather of the present car,
which was dedicated by the czar in st.
Petersburg a few weeks ago. is a good
example Of the prevailing Russian
style. 1t is not Gothic, nor Greek, o
Roman, nor yet Renaissance. The in
iuences which have fixed the Russian
church architecture are Asiatic rather
than European, remarks the Youths
Companion. The predominating arches
are Indian rather than Roman, and
he domes, with their bullying sides,
come from Asia and the n-Christian
races. Russia itself was in closer re-
lations with Asia than with Europe
till Peter the Great turned the face of
the empire westward and began the
recreating OF a ~semi-savage nation into
a European power by building his new
capital In close contact by sea with
the western world. But the choice OF
the oriental type of architecture for so
splendid a church as that recently ded-
icated proves that the influence of
Asia is still strong.
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11
To the Pole BY Bear Power.

To the Pole by Bear Power.
Capt. ROAD Amundsen, the exploG
er Of the northwest passage, is the
latest aspirant for the honor of discoy-
ering the north pole. Capt. Amund-
sen has a new scheme. He is not
going to take any chances with air.
ships, motor sleds or any other artia-
cial achievements Of modern ingenui-
ty. His motto is: Back to nature"
He proposes to use things that are at
home in arctic conditions. His motive
power will be polar bears. The nor
NAL polar bear as he is found at large
would have some disadvantages in the
role Of a domestic animal. His temper
is not amiable, and 1t would be hard
to keep him in a proper state of dis,
cipline, even with a club. The only
effective argument with him is a gun,
preferably at long range. But Capt.
Amundsen purposes to employ bears
that have never heard OF the call OF
the wild. He is having them trained
'N1N - az III AANg bAON
up they ought to be as docile as
horses. When he takes them north a
trip to the pole will be a mere pleas
ure jaunt for them, The colder and
meaner the weather the better they
will like 1t. II they come to a break
In the ice. such as the one thai stopped
Peary, they will enjoy swimming
across. With sea flesh for their food
they can live on the country. Accord
ing to Capt. Amundsen a bear is ten
times as strong as a horse and can
haul as much as a hundred dogs. With
six bears, therefore, he will have CO..
horse power, or 6OO-dog power. More
over, when tanned, polar bears are
"tractable, reliable and affectionate."
Even II they should a their master
in a moment of forgetfulness, remarks
Golfers, no doubt they would regret
afterward.
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11
TO FLY LIKE A KITE.
The "strlns" to Bells Machine to Be
Attached to a Tug.

Baddeck, N. S.-For the purpose of
conducting the preliminary tests of
DR.. Alexander Graham Bells first fiy.
ing machine a float has been con.
structed which supports a cradle
capable Of being tipped in either di.
rection. On it will be placed the air.
ship, and the float will then be lowed
behind a powerful tug, and while go.
ing at high speed the cradle will he
tipped and the airship, exposing for
the first time its immense area of
silken surface, will rise-so the in.
Ventor says. A flying line from the
tug will provide it with the necessary
momentum to keep 1t in the air.
The navigator will be stretched ont
In the place provided for him, and he
VIII be employed in making observa.
tons. By taking into consideration
the velocity of the wind and the mil
on the flying line of the ship the exact
power required of the motor will he
determined.
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11
No Work. No FOOD tor indiana.

Indian Commissioner Leupp at.
tributes the little trouble among the
Utes to the fact that the Indians will
not work N thus gain the compen.
sation and the food which will support
them and their families. Speaking of
the policy Of the Indian office, Com
missioner Leupp says: This office be-
heves in applying the same rule that
is applied to poor and ignorant men of
any race. We believe In finding work
for them and then In permitting them
To go hungry II they will not accept
the opportunity to make a living" He
adds that IL is the practice OF his de-
partment OF the government to treat
the Indians kindly but to insist that
they shall cas- to be paupers when
there is work al which they can earn
good wages practically at their doors"
Can anyone point out anything unfair
or unreasonable In that principle?
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11
NO BOARDING BY PRESIDENT.
Monthly Salary of $4,16e Deposited
Regularly in Bank.

Observation-Disclosures Roosevelt
is doing his part, as a private citi.
zen, to maintain the national banks on
a sound foundation. He gives an ex-
ample on the first of every month NJ
the foolishness of boarding money NV
depositing in one of the leading ma.
tional banks of Washington the full
amount of his monthly salary as presi-
lent of the United States.
On the first of each month a treas
ury warrant is drawn to his order for
$4,l66.66. The president indorses II
on the back and it is sent to the hank
owing to autograph fiends. the
president is never able to tell tho
amount of his balance. Scores Of
checks signed by the president fail
into the hands of souvenir hunters
and are never presented.
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11

Because her husband In his will had
expressed the wish that his estate.
comprised OF land Inc mortgages val.
ued at $4,000 should be kept intact
until their five children had become OF
age a New Jersey widow took to the
washtub to maintain the family. and
when her strength gave out was much
disturbed by the successful appeal
made by her friends to the court for
a comfortable allowance II of the
property. To her the wishes of the
dear departed overweighed all other
interests. This incident teaches that
the patient Griselda is not unknown in
modern life.
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11
chIeksns to Pass Ludnm.n.

Columbia, Pat will soon ho
known whether the adage "Chickens
come home to roost" is as sound lesaI
ly as it has long been mataphorican,,
Justice c. H. Slower, having bear5
three witnesses on each side swaar
respectively that seven chickens hn
longed to Farmer R. Miller ana NJ
A. M. Sherk, has resolved to e which
three witnesses are lying.
The Justice will take the chickors
Just before dusk, to a point midU,n9'
between the Miller and Sherk boroos
scatter feed enough to keen them bI.9,
for a few minutes, retire from ny
scene, and observe which roost .bae
go to. Then he will enter tudymant
Tor either the plaintiff or for the AZ
PENDANT, according as the fowls shaw
direct. Snail
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11
FIERCE ARCTIC MOSQUITOES.
calcium's Crew Found Them a Pest
In Greenland.


Philadelphia.-The captain of the
British bark Calcium, which arrived
In port recently from Greenland,
brought the first news this year from
that frigid country. The bark left
here on August rs, and, n~otwithstand-
ing the fact that she was the last OF
the cryolite fleet to sail, she was the
first to get back. Her sister ship, the
Alkaline, was forced, through stress of
weather, to put into Newfoundland in
distress.
The natives reported last winter an
unusually stormy one, and Capt.
Zurcker, the master of the Calcium,
found that the summer had not been
unpleasant, with the exception of at
tacks by swarms of bloodthirsty mos
quitoes. The general idea that mos
quitoes are not to be found in the arc
tic circle, the crew stated, is a great
mistake, as the pests frequently forced
the men to retreat while she vas load
ing a cargo of cryolite at Ivigtut.
The Calcium found on her arrival
off Greenland that the coast was ice
bound for a distance of so miles, but
despite this barrier, she managed to
work her way to her loading berth at
Ivigtut. BY the time the vessel was
loaded the wind had changed and
driven the ice far to seward, leaving
a clear channel, and there was no fur
ther difficulty. The Alkaline, a sister
vessel, which has been all summer
making the run, is expected home this
week. The Calcium made the return
trip in SO days.
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11
When a THINGS Nice.

London's Lord Mayor declared w
other day, that he did not know muY =
about cooking: But, said ne
know when a things nice CUT ,% ~,
rant bread very thin, so that you sue 's
through the fruit and bring OUT
full flavor, butter it lightly ana se .sat
it neatly, and you may be sure Ing
this most wholesome and sust sne
food will win for itself the praise -
~ the thing that's nice.
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11
Copyright, by Joseph B. Bowles.)

(Mrs. Fenton Ottley, one of the lead
ing women in public reform movements
in the south, is a charter member of the
Atlanta Woman's club, and has been its
president. She has served also as secre-
tary of the General Federation of Wom-
ans Clubs for the state of Georgia, as
first chairman of the state industrial com
mission, which did much work for the
reform of child labor abuses, as chairman
of the state commission on arts ano
crafts, and as one of Georgia's commit
tee of three to consider the color line
question. Mrs. Ottley is a Mi~ssissippian
Atlanta since her marriage, her husband
being a banker of hat city,
The possibilities of Georgia pine
are being exploited from one end of
the country to the other, but what
thought is being given to the POSSIBLE
tiles of the Georgia boy?" So wrote
President Branson, of the state nor
NAL school at Athens, Ga, a few
years ago. The educational renais-
sance now beginning in the south is
based upon recognition of that great
est of waste products" undeveloped
human life, of which so much exists
in the states south of Mason and
Dixon's line.
Since most of the people live in
the countryside average population
of Georgia, for instance, being 35 to
the square mile, with 1900, 900 per
sons living in one-room cabins-it is
easy to see that the country school
must be the evangel to the people.
In Its improvement lies the solution
of the problem of general social bet
terment. The tremendous and sys-
tematic crusade now being organized
throughout the southern states by the
southern educational board rpo
working almost entirely through this
agency, devoting itself to the perfec-
ton OF the rural school and such nor
NAL institutions as furnish teachers
for it. This field of endeavor is Ger.
tainly wide.
Out of 100000 children of school
age in Georgia barely 100000 go IN
school 100 days in the year. Eight
months schools are the exception. the
rule being five months, while MANY
communities do not have school long.
er than three months each wear In
these schools, when existent the
poorest and most meager instruction
is too often given, owing to the moor
pay of teachers.
All this seem in a fair wav IN no
revolutionized by the efforts of the
southern people, spurred on and on.
Outraged by the southern ~educationa,
board. In view Of this great move.
ment in the country schools 1t is in.
teresting to note that the f-orerunner
OF the model country school. nc
planned by educational enthusiasts
was initiated and carried on success,
Iully by the clubwomen of the state
OF Georgia a few years ago. By Their
enorts and under their charge two
mouel country schools were main
tained tve months the first wear in
districts. On visiting them J
committee Of the southern education,
ii board declared them ideal" These
SCHOOLS begun as an experiment and
an object lesson, have been carried
cess. sue
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11

What is dress? What
is a costume? What are
the principal elements
which go to make up a
costume or a garment !?
What determines these
elements and in accord
ance with what aims and
purposes are our cos
TUNES made?
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11

The fossil remains of the first bird
that ever lived on earth, the archaeop
teryx, have been discovered in Ger.
many. We would think a bird with a
name like that would get all twisted
uD in itself when 1t tried to fv
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11

The industry of making rubber
from the guayule weed having made
a bouncing start at Marathon, some
hitherto unproductive regions of
southwest Texas may be said to have
started on the o a to wealth with a
springy stride.
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11

Their history is interesting. particu.
larly Tor the striking example II Of.
tords OF what may be the outcome 81
an active and whole-hearted coonero
tlon between the representative Won.
en- VINO make up the clubs of the ,a
rlous states and the educators GA
educational experts of their sectionS
PRESIDENT Branson, Of the Ceour,a
state normal school, had addresses -
MRS, Lindsay Johnson, then nresiSou.
Q | the State Federation of Wononne
clubs, a letter in which he asked 80
mat association would undertata
raise $1,000 for the maintenanno 70
months of a model county son.,
wnlch Should furnish an object Ioo
son OF what a county school sbo" Ts,
anu might be. The Federation
Women's Clubs, a body of 6o0o roo
I~esentative women. having been ,ong
devoted to efforts for educationaI bat
terment, and, as Mr.. Branson 49,.
particularly interested in the nrobIom
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11
Model School by
a Won1an's
Club
By Mrs. Fenton Ottley

. DV 4HFos eIIIOH OEIIeV
Prominent Southern Woman
Tells How Woman's Club Rem
dered Practical Assistance to a
Community-D eplorable Condi-
tons in Public Schools Where
Children Attend Only Three
Months a Year-lnterest Stimu-
lated by Model County Schools
College Graduates Teach Chill
dren Domestic Sciences, Carpen-
try and Gardening.
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11

The plan is that each school shaii
become a blooming garden, the gen
eral headquarters of the people o.
the neighborhood, where library anu
reading rooms shall help to ren
der it attractive and necessary
patrons, as well as to pupils.
1t is safe to say that these wv
model schools in purpose, plan suS
detail will be the model indeed ~
thousands of others which the nsS
educational movement in the soun
will produce. That they have peer
successfully initiated, maintained SDa
administered by women furnishes
fair answer to that already rapius
vanishing question: "What
women's clubs do?'
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11

Of the rural school, al once
the suggestion n pledged the 'ep'ed
site sum. Tue requl.
The school was to be a mar,
county system, its Location 10 lae
cided by competition anon We De.
county superintendents of tba The
the school to be awarded to tbo 1'a'e,
est bidder and the federation n nlgn.
Itself to supply the d~ifferanoSsi
tween this highest bid and tho De-
sary $1,000. All the money ices
be placed in the hands of tho q 70
gia federation, and the soho, 0eof
to be inaugurated by the feder,"a was
and remain under its controI on
Branson, on his part, pledged at
dertake the technical direction =, W.
school. l1e
So much interest was arousaa
the bids of the counties ran % ala
that it was found possible to llsl'
ment the efforts of two commnntap
instead of one, with the sum ras
by the federation. Hence %eu
Danielsville, Madison county. win
bid of 500, secured the first sos .
Waters district, Floyd county ~
able, with $3.50, to secure a eaS
The tragedy Of the situation IaN
two splendid bids of $500 from IN
tow county and $3.50 from Rota
county, the latter the most mounto,u
Gus county in Georgia. To those ~ni
the meaning of tbo,o
guarantees from such sections ,hs'
is infinite pathos in the tbongb, :.
such sums as these having been goS
for such a cause and in vs,s,
One thousand dollars more Womb
have done noble service.
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11

The children are taught in the
simplest and most effective manner
plain cooking, plain sewing, nature
studies, the raising of vegetables,
herbs and flowers leach school has
three acres of ground, the making
of baskets and other articles in
cluded in Preside industries, for the
girls, with carpentry, wood carving
and the general use of tools and
drawing implements for the boys. All
this in addition to the regular academr
ic studies taught in the shortest and
most vital way.
By plain cooking is meant the sim
pie, wholesome preparation of that
which is-or should be-found in
every Georgia garden.
BY plain sewing is meant the max
ing of articles needed in the homes
of Georgia.
By ireside industries is meant tns
making of articles with a marketaO'e
value, as baskets, hats, fans, hand
carved articles, home-woven spreads
and rugs, or, indeed, anything winch
will be profitable or will help to maze
the rural home more attractive Oh
comfortable.
In domestic science is taught De
sides the usual things, some pracu'
cal knowledge of first aid to the
injured"
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1908-02-11

The two sections securing -.
schools furnished contrasting bpt !.
cellent fields for the social eyno,,
ment. Danielsville, the county .o..
of Madison county, is a typical viuoa.
of the best character. Its peonIo /.
many of them, educated and resnos
but the county is essentially rur.l
since only n edge of it is crossed b1
a railroad, Danielsville itself beioo
six miles distant from it. About sOo.
people cen'er at Danielsville. The hest
of them threw themselves heart and
soul into the effort not only to secure
the first model school, but to guaran.
tee its perpetuation. The president
of the county board of education a
well-known lawyer, besides his other
efforts, threw his home open to the
teachers, who were thus assured the.
comforts of daily life.
Waters district, Floyd county. Is a
crossing" of the Southern railroad.
just out of the little city OF Rome.
It's people are rougher than the couD.
try folk, and the life led there BY the
three young teachers was hard enough
to furnish missionary conditions.
Both schools thrived surprisingly.
The people, who looked upon 1t at
first as a sort of vagary of their su-
perintendent and the ~clubwomen.
soon became deeply interested in the
plan. The school at Danielsvile.
opening with Sc pupils, very soon had
1875, a great number of children com
ing in from the county to board. At
Waters about so remained in at
tendance.
At both places a kitchen and work
shop were added to the schoolhouse,
which belonged to the county, and
about 5000 was spent in permanent
improvements. The success of the ex-
pertinent may be gathered from the
fact that the five-month schools, main
tanned as an experiment, we're re-
placed by eight months sessions in
both counties the succeeding year.
Der Deutsche correspondent. [volume] (Baltimore, Md.) 1841-1918, 1908-11-11

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