Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-08
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elaborate hats gold-spangled bands will
be used similarly to those of Jet. save
that white tulle and net will be substi-
tuted for black and the brilliant effects
Will be combined with such colors as
light pink. blue and green. On the me-
diminished tailored felts gold and black
cordings are immensely smart, supple
mented with gold bullion buckles and
coque feathers. Such chapeauX look espe-
cially we'll with the black cloth tailored
suits frightened with gold-corded collars,
cuffs and big buttons. which are how be-
ing made up for autumn.
Extreme Directoire Shapes.
In the extreme directoire shapes are
seen hats which are only to be attempted
by women with an incredible amount of
aplomb as we'll as of hair. and yet they
are wonderfully picturesque, especially
when worn in connection with the tulle
ruff, which, framing the face softly, con-
ceaing the throat and yelling the ears.
takes years from the wearer's apparent
age. These hats are made by covering
an exaggerated Corday brim with soft
silk, and erecting above it an equally
exaggerated crown closely gathered In
order to afford voluminous puff. To
cover the joining of the two parts broad
band of widely contrasting colored ribbon
is allowed to ripple. This terminates at
the left side in short loops and two long
ends which fall over the side of the
enormous jet cabochon set in the center
of a circular frill of the finely pleated
ribbon, which, at first glance, looks like
a huge black sunfiower placed just in
front of the bow.
Eccentric Shapes.
Some of the autumn shapes are Of SO
eccentric a character that it is well that
their trimmings are simple, else no wom-
an of taste would dream Of buying one
of them. A shape that Is immensely
smart-if worn by a woman of refined
bearing and petite proportions-has an
enormously square crown and brim
wide at back. which narrows so marvel
ously that at the front ii is scarcely more
than a visor. 1t is guiltless of trimming
at back. left side or front. but at the
right side is set cluster of five well
over the right ear and cheek. left-side
view of this hat Is rather shock to the
beholder, who wonders il the lady has
forgotten to have it trimmed.
Ripping Brims- Are Becoming.
In the more conventional S. apes, such
as are taken up by the average woman of
quite good taste in all things pertaining
to costuming, is fabric hat, with a
slightly depressed brim, which is bent
in wide curves all round the head. This
may have a velvet, soft silk or pongee
crown set on in the form of medium
sized puff. preferably of the tint of the
ordinary walking suit. Its trimmings
consist of flexible and long coQue plumes
or stiff little wings, but the same shape
may be wonderfully dressed up by using
a short cluster of ostrich plumes in lieu
of the more practical type.
The Envelope Idea.
For a, thoroughly practical and COM
Portable runabout suit" hat there is
nothing better than that which brings
out the envelope idea, meaning the shape
having the moderately low crown and
medium wide brim curving ever SO slight
ly downward at the right side and flar-
ing at the left side closely to the crown,
without actually touching it, This shape
is at its best when trimmed with sash
taffeta or with velvet ribbon correspond
ing in width This is twisted loosely
about the crown in such manner that
all save the top shall be covered. The
ends are arranged in a rather full rosette
at the back, there being at least four
looms and but two ends which are cut OF,
so that they do not fall over the edge or
the brim.
Miniature Gainsborough.
In direct contrast to the extremes TO
which the directoire types are leading
milliners are the Gainsboroughs of modest
proportions, which are developed In