The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1908-08-06

lana, queen Alexandra has baniShed
| the new mode from polite society by
| the frown of her displeasure In this
country, however, the mode is slowly
| gaining in favor, although it is at
present worn by society women only in
a modified and subdued form.
While the real Greek costume is one
of clinging folds and graceful lines,
the faddisIs of fashionable Paris have
followed not so much the classic mod
Ell as the notifications or extremes of
ii as created by the ladies of the First
empire.
While it is not likely that the Amer
lean women will ever attempt any
such extreme as Paris, there is no.
doubt that for some occasions the
sheath skirt has already made a place
for itself
/ One of the fabrics liked for these
new skirts in satin or those soft ma
terials that have the qualities for good
draping. 1t must not be too stiff, yet
keep its folds; it must not flare too
easily, but cling to the figure, and
| adjust itself easily to long lines. I
These new satins are chiffon in weight,
and nothing like in weight or stiffness
| the Duchess Satins, which are perhaps
only fit for wedding gown or recep-
| ton gown for matron The satin OF
our grandmother's days is seldom seen
| A biscuit colOred satin had a tunlc
drapery, a soft girdle with scarf ends.
and was embroidered down the open
ing order of the tunic. Buttons, satin
covered and embroidered, and loops of
crochetted satin floss formed the but
| ton holes and were also used for trim
ming The waist accompaniment was
a surplice bodice with yoke and long
| sleeves of filet lace. When intended
for carriage wear or calling costume,
many of these gowns are supplied WITH
a coat of some sort.
One of the first skirts, and indeed
whole costume, is the one to be worn
on the street An excellent model for
such purpose was a 17-gored flare
skirt, which has a sheath-like adjust
ment about the hips, but flares slightly
below the knees. A feature is the
| joining of these many cores with
tuck seams which are made by the
edge of each gore being turned under
and Tapped on the nextgore and fatty
| stitched. The effect is that of tuckS
| that flare gradually toward the lower
edge A band of trimming was ap-
piled in tunic effect meeting narrow
band of trimming at each side OF the
front gore which extends almost to
the foot of the skirt and slopes upward
toward the back. The back closing is
made under an inverted plait. Blue
chiffon serge was the material chosen,
trimmed with bands of black satin.
/ With this skirt was worn an eton
having rounded fronts, backs and sides
on the lower edges. while the edges,
bands on the cuffs, seams and collar
were decorated with bands of black
| satin.
Of course, it is not every woman, IL
particular the short woman, who can
wear a skirt with any crOss-wise trim
ming. not even the tunic effect; and
for such a one there is a three piece
skirt that closes in the front on the
left side of the front gore The sides
Of circular cut fall in soft full lines,
while the front, narrow gore lies fiat
and smooth from belt to foot. The
closing is made with four covered but
tons and button-hole loops of silk, and
the same closing is used on the jumper
the right front of which fastens over
the left.
For dressy wear is a skirt having
the tunic or over drapery as its prom
nent feature and soft draped waist
or one in surplice style. The under
skirt is -gored with the sheath
like fit at the top and a moderate full
ness at the lower edge, with sweep
length. The tunic is applied from the
side back seams, is cut open ana
caught up on the left side. The bodice
is empire in effect with lace yoke ana
sleeves.
For walking street wear generally,l
for business or sports, the American
women is faithful to plated, PLAIN
gored, or circular skirts, according 10
the material used. For wool goods
and silks. one sees many plated skirts. |
the plain gored and circular makes
are oftener used for linens, DUCKS
and crash: for when a dress must
visit the WaShtuD occasionally pIe'i'"
are the hardest things to iron ana
still keep in good shape Nevertheless
the modes are interchangeable among
the different fabrics according to the
taste of the wearer.
For street wear or travelling no ma
terial has had a greater vogue than
pongee and one sees many skirt ana
coat suits in colors as we'll as the nat
ural tint. All the pongee fabrics are
liked for such utility wear.
A linen suit is almost necessity 10 !
the going away wardrobe" and for
day wear nothing is its equal when
made of the heavier weight in the
fashionable skirt of circular cut and
long coat. Large fat white buttons
should decorate the coat.
For the afternoon a white suit OF
fine sheer linen could be used, made
with a tunic effect or many gored ,
beading and one of the smart little
coates so popular just now. Such
shifts are embroidered and come at |