The San Francisco call., 1908-08-16

ment OF underwear from the FEMININE
wardrobe the laundries find their ollls
sadly diminished, for our frills on petu-
coats soon sent them up to the dollar
sign. Now comes to the rescue the well
known journalistic medical authority,
the Lancet, with the information that
soiled cuffs are a menace to health,
gathering up microbes galore; so that
il viii now not only be the smart bank
clerk on a salary Of $50 month that
viii wear a clean pair daily, If typhoid
germs are to. be avoided.
June and July are always months
for fashionable weddings in Paris, and
il is for this reasoa that many Of the
aristocratic French families who other
wise would long ago have fed from the
heat of the city TO their country
chateaux, or where the fresh sea breezes
blow, are still here. If the wedding is
not taking place in their own family,
Ill may be a friend who is TO be mar
ried. and it is for this reason that
many fashionable women may still be
seen driving in the Bois or taking tea
at their favoTite tea rooms.
GREEK GOWNS FASHIONABLE
At these weddings it has been noticed
that the directoire and sheath gown are
stin greatly in favor, but they DO not
reign supreme. The Greek style still
dresses in the latter style which have
seen this season was made of old rose
liberty satin, with the whole of the
bottom OF the skirt embroidered in re-
lief, tone upon tone. The tunic was IN
old rose net, richly embroidered with
huge flowers. The long sleeves were
composed of this same embroidered net.
The guimpe was of white net encrusted
with white guipure. With this dress
was worn a large white straw hat,
heavily trimmed with huge punches of
white feathers.
Apart from these two. the princesse
style can still be said almost TO domi-
nate. Satin and net are nearly always
used in its composition. These en-
broidered dresses. and. indeed, all the
embroideries used nowadays have
reached such perfection in workman
ship and beauty Of design that they
can fairly claim to be artistic produc-
tions, the work not Of dress makers but
OF artists. Their luxuriousness and
beauty recall the time of the Renais-
sance. but with this diference-that
the gowns OF the period We're made to
last. while those Of our day are made
simply to be worn on four or five occa-
siOns and then thrown aside.
Another lovely dress worn by a tall,
beautiful girl at a diplomatic wedding
recently was a good example OF the
fashion of the moment. 1t was prin-
cesse style in pale blue soft liberty.
made over a tight fitting foundation
outlining the bust waist, and hips with
out a crease. The top of the bodice was
a white Alencon lace guimpe, cut very
low and transparent, and cut over the
bust in the shape of an arc over an
inner blouse of embroidered net. A
long black satin scarf was crossed
before and behind, and passing over
the right shoulder was knotted over the
right hip. from where it fell TO the
edge Of the skirt, where it was again
knotted and trimmed with two heavy
silk tassels. The sleeves were trans
parent and made of black net. The
hat worn with this costume was a
large black straw with ostrich plumes.
SHOES MATCH DRESSES
I noticed that the elegance and re-
hnement of the day were also carried
out IN the boots and shoes. Whatever
color the dress may be, the shoes and
stockings are always Of the same shade.
The buttons should be not of mother
of pearl, but OF real precious stones.
For instance. for a white dress the
shoes would be white, with real pearls
as fastenings- If blue, the shoe should
be the same color, with turquoises. and
so on. Very pretty are the shoes made
silver. which can be worn by brides
maids with the shepherdess style of
dress. All these shoes must have Louis
XIV heels, very high and tapering.
At no other epoch has there existed
such a great and general love of dress
and. moreover, love of change. Styles
change so rapidly that what was fash
ionsble at the beginning Of the sea-
son is quite out of date at the end.
but in spite Of this, they all have but
one tendency-to revert to those of for
mer days. The short waists, mounting
high UP the back, the large, soutached
cloaks with wide sleeves, the burnous
made In cloth or cashmere, all carry
US back TO the time OF the empires.
HEAT GOVERNS CLOTHING
The heat of few days before the
present rainy weather set in had one
curious effect, that of making smar,
Parisieunes discard all but the most
absolutely essential parts Of their cloth
Ing In the Bois corsages have been
seen almost as decollete as ball dresses
Underskirts have been abolished fol
some months past, and now an effort has
been noticed TO render the corsage still
more attenuated. One wonders reallS
where IL viii stop. The passion fol-
soft, transparent materials has also
brought with It the fashion for soft
anu ~A4L54l4S QLdpGI46St ana II one
avoids the exaggerations of the earlier
part Of the season, are unrivaIed 70,
their forms and beauty. Gowns made
with tunics draped in the Greek styles
Of liberty and other similar materials
are charming.
The time has passed, according to the
old French saying. when to be well
sloved and well shod is to be well
dressed. These are now but the small
est part Of the details of the toilet
which are carefully studied. Inatten-
ton to what is seemingly a minor de-
tail viii throw the whole effect out OF
harmony. One is verify a slave to
fashion II one endeavors to keen mace
with the fashionable Parisienne: If IS
one long grind and no letup. Hours
are spent at the preliminary part OF
the toilet the bath, hair, hands and
complexion grooming, and then comes
the dressing. leading hair dresser
assured me the other day that one well
known beauty takes two hours to nut
on her hat and veil. Think of spend
ing two hours on your head like that,
Quite enough to take all ideas save
fatigue. envy and discomfort out Of
the sight Of a rival with a frock at
tracing more attention.
CORSET MAKER AN ARTIST
Notwithstanding the talk of the SUP.
preston OF the corset, which is hintec