davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1908-04-26
Combine Material NTH Chiffon.

A charming waist be with this suit can
be made of the dress material combined with chiffon:
The suit would loosely tan, braid OF two
shade the suit while the velvet ribbon the waist
should be of much deeper shade really going into
The waist towards the armhole and the sleeves
msde Of chiffon tucked in pin tucks, and unusual
effect is given putting the tucked sleeve into the
tucked armhole portion without additional fulness
The sleeve tapers off rather abruptly to small size
the elbow. There is odd shaped yoke made of
squares the tucked mousseline and let lace These
outlined with narrow velvet ribbon.
II there pretty muslin other kinds
thin dresses made, nothing will be absolutely
necessary the line. except pretty wash
dresses for morning White still will hold its
and preferring white to coiors will find be-
wildering array OF materials and designs to choose
Then there the cotton voiles. poplins,
Gales gingbsms-any of which make most charming
dresses and IL made by oneself really inexpensive
One pretty design for wash dress for mornings
afternoons has plated skirt, with wide band
OF the material around the bottom The waist is laid
in plafts the shoulders the armhoe is wide. and
the short kmono sleeve has plaits matching those
the shoulders. A band of braid or insertion
sleeves The dress is finished just at
the neck line the back. while in the front it is
cut quite low and 1T will be to copy the
pretty finish from the illustration without further d.
Tectons The and sleeves of sheer lawn sim
ply tucked
The San Francisco call., 1908-04-26
Rest Robe of Light Cashmere.

1t always is wise to have at least rest robe,
wrapper something of the kind. and lightweight
cashmere for 81 yard will make up we'll 1t will be
pretty made in soft green Copenhagen blue
A good design has either "Watteau " back or one
that fits close. with plas let in below the waist The
front is semfttng, but has funess at all in the
shoulders The opening in the front is disguised oy
the pastron which the bottom and extends
length front, going into small sailor
shaped collar This is outlined with narrow ribbon
in a much darker shade. The way the buttons are
put on at the neck is both unusual and pretty.
II there is time to make it, breakfast jacket
will pretty addition to the trousseau. This per-
haps not altogether appropriate name as a gar
Ike the illustrated would be suitable TO wear
with pretty skirt at home in the evening
and tired would be particularly pretty made of
abatross lightweight cashmere
trimmed with plated frlls of affeta silk in
deeper shade tan, and decorated with small plain
gilt buttons
the underwear fine quality of cambria. about
% yard Will make beautifully and for one
fine set expensive cambria may be chosen
In the matter OF decoration nothing be dainter
prettler than hand embroidery and Vaenciennes lace
A small scalloped edge with embroidered dot in
the buttonholes for the ribbons to be run
through, perhaps beautifully embroidered single
small sized monogram. make most attractive
style of trimming Or if something little elabo
rate is wanted. design to be embroidered may be
stamped lace and fine hand sewed tucks lace
and putting be effectively employed.
The San Francisco call., 1908-04-26
Combination Garments in Favor.

Instead OF making chemises or and
drawers the combination of corset and drawers
is In greater favor; and this style of garment has
been worked until the patterns sasfac-
tory For full length pettcoats. nothing go ahead
Of well hitting gored pattern, finished at the
bottom with dust and outside rufles
One princess petticoats almost indis-
pensable; and in night the Russian
styles the latter having shoulder seams. be
prime favorites All hems should be put in by hand
and where the fe1led used it a beautiful
finish to do the hemming down OF these by
hand.
In recommending much hand work it is supposed
that girls and wishing to do this work on
their garments can do ii evenly and we'll else they
would better confne themselves to good machine sew
The San Francisco call., 1908-04-26
Jcpels Correspond pith Conn.

Not every has variety of jewels from
which to choose the for each but the
lucky blessed with this superabundance, will
find her topaz is most striking when with yell
low gown, and down through the list The rule
is the gems the which harmonizes with
dress Jade effective with green
A blue gown. which tinge of green is set
off by aquamarnes turquoses
True blue demands sapphires. Topaz amber. and
carnelians the jewels for brown costumes. Pink
The San Francisco call., 1908-04-26

There is made Of green taTeta, which finishes
the suit prettily. For dresser made OF
yoe taffeta of the silks would be suit
able.
\ skirt with a narrow front gore and circular SIDES
and back will lend itself easily of the materials
uggested conventional design in some fancy braid
be applied effectively at intervals around the Dot
tom. The little short WASTED with the short
kimono sleeves and of the prettiest
styles There is velvet facing the turn over
collar. and braid is put match that the skirt
The San Francisco call., 1908-04-26
Plain Shirts and Dressy Jackets.

Some Of the newest suits have perfectly
plain skirts and with the jackets made q
little dressy are exceedingly good looking.
The suit shown here is OF navy blue serge.
and the coat has seams front and back ex-
tending from the shoulders to the bottom
There Is an applied plat which extends over
the shoulder enough to cover the seam. and
finishes of at nothing under the arms. where
II is apparently held in place by two buttons.
The San Francisco call., 1908-04-26

bzl1Azzzz& styles change much rapidly and
ECEgMeW9E instead of making two trunkfuls
tS9H@A( Of lingerie. the OF moderate cir
cunstanees viii provide herself with
probably complete ssts--que for time.
The number Of gowns and accessories OF all kinds 20
provided depends entirely how is to
live afterwards.
For women who in what be generally
moderate circumstances the six complete sets
OF lingerie house afternoon dresses, dressy
costume for calling. receptions. plain tai
perhaps pretty dresses suitable for dan
cling general evening and several wash dresses
viii be allowance as far as the main arti-
ces concerned.
thing be decided a rule is the
wedding gown Il will permit the choice
great many materials to choose from. from the
heavy yet soft and pabe satns TO all kinds OF soft
Iustrous silks the beautiful chiffon cloths sheer
orsandies, musns. fine Persian lawns As June win
be the wedding month, of the thin materials men
toned attractive and the dress viii really
serviceabe one being appropriate for many occasions
afterwards.
The first shown is made Of q fine quality OF
Persian and is about dainty and pretty
imagined II Is made all IN piece AID quite sim
pattern probably will be and while
possible find exactly like the illus
tration, there will be much difficulty in finding
one which will be a sufficient guide In dresses like
this lower edge should be perfectly straight
train, il just escapes touching all around,
and the hem forms the bottom tucks In this lowest
cluster the tucks and one-half inches wide,
there IS cluster put in that the top tuck
The top cluster coming half way between the waist
and knees tucks three-quarters OF inch wide.
The going up and down around the waist. with
the help OF the under seams, dispose of all the
fullness there These tucks graduated in length
and give most becoming lines 10 the figure
The San Francisco call., 1908-04-26
Tucked Yoke in Front.

The waist has yoke front and back reaching low
down in the front and made Of silk moussene tucked
lengthwise. insertion is in. plated fchu
outlines the yoke edge and falls the shoulders
There folded sirde Of the crepe which disappears
under the front gore. The sleeves of mousseline
and mousouetaire and the waist
This would be much expensive dress than
the other it should be silk. and then
too. the material and the veil both would
but would be lovely and the dress could be most
useful the could be shortened taken off
entirely making it possible to wear it great many
timee
With the dress first described princess slip of
some wash materials would be wise say
made Of wash louisine. 1t should be per
fectiy fitted and pretty and ssrviceabIe trim
ming would be q deep rune OF white cotton
The San Francisco call., 1908-04-26

Wound stitches is term for the
stitches IN the making Of which the thread
is coiled several times around the needle
before It Is pulled through the material. on
the surface OF which the coil forms French
knot. bullion stitch. or a twisted outline
stitch.
The long skirt which lies in folds at the hem
ana literally sweeps the ground Is not being
generally adopted by the great majority of
women. 1t Is only suitable for those who go
about in motor OF carriage. The walking
length will remain q rival OF the rev idea
and il seen at all sorts Of social Affairs in the
daytime.
The San Francisco call., 1908-04-26

taken the plat The coat have the
two rows of soutache over the ending little
above the waistline at the back in sharp turn or
button effect or else carried farther similarly
finished
If the coat needs refining, braiding before
putting in the new lining, that thorough dampen
Ing and pressing be given part The braid
should be made qutte moist and the result will more
than repay the trouble. the cost, too being nominal
The San Francisco call., 1908-04-26

Women who wear white
find diamonds, pearls. and
opals equally harmonious.
Moonstones are pretty with
a gray gown and amethysts
especially so with lavender.
For mourning dresses jet is.
of course the only jeweiry
possible.
The San Francisco call., 1908-04-26

is by no means considered necessary for
he present day bride to have the ex
tenSive and elaborate trousseau of a few
sears go. Probably the reason IS that the
styles change so much more rapidly and
instead of making one or two trunkfuls
Of lingerie. the woman OF moderate cir
culnstances Will provide herself with
The San Francisco call., 1908-04-26

gowns demand coral or
pinkish pearls. With the
shades of purple now so
niue h worn, amethysts.
pearls, and sapphires go
well. Garnets. rubies, and
coral of certain shads be-
long with red.
The Washington times., 1908-07-27
CAPTURES BURGLAR
WITH BEAR TRAP
Negro Steps Into Steel Jaws
Placed at Entrance of
Store.

BIRMINGHAM. Ala. July 27.-Arthur
Mcmillan. a negro, and would-be bur
glar. was captured in bear trap while
trying to enter the store operated By
y. r. Bar AT Riley station on the
South Bessemer car line Mcmillan IS
believed 10 be the man who robbed
Blair's store several weeks ago. and
who has also broken into a number OF
other stores IN that vicinity IN the last
two or three months.
Ih' bear trap was placed at the en-
trance 10 the store by Mr. Blair Tor
any Woulo-be burglars and fully proved
us vaic@- Mcmillan stepped into Il and
immediately became a prisoner. No
matter now hard he attempted TO free
himself the trap only biz deeper and
deeper. He began 10 yell. and his shouts
soon drew an inquisitive crowd. me
crowd removed him from the trap, but
he found II 20 be another case or
Jumping from the frying pan into the
fire, for they bound him securely TO a
tree.
This was the position in which
Deputy Sheriff Curl found him. In an
EFFORT 70 appTehend some other negro
criminals Deputy Curl had the negro
MCMILLAN go 70 several places with him.
The Washington times., 1908-07-27
GOV. HUGHES FATE.
LEADERS DEBATE
Hasten From All Over State at
Woodruff's Call-Candidate
Watches Papers.

NEW YORK. July Z7.-Bubbling with
excitement, which Is plainly visible
DESPITE thei- attempts at unconcen,
Republican leaders from all over tne
State are streaming into New York to
day 20 meet State Chairman. Woodruff
% decide whether Governor Hughes
demand for another term viii be met
with open war.
The declaration Of William Barnes.
tr.. Boss Of Albany" that he viii fight
Hughes. is taken as a raIIying point By
many foes Of the governor, but many
others predict open defeat
At Saranac, Governor Hughes is de-
vouring every printed reference TO his
declared candidacy, but refuses 10 dis
cuss its import and political significance
Yesterday he received W r. Wilcox.
chairman OF the State Public Service
Commission. and close friend Of Presi-
dent Roosevelt Other New York CITY
leaders also called. but their visits were
declared TO be personal.
The Washington times., 1908-07-27
FALLS INTO SOUP
THROUGH SKYLIGHT
Young Woman Dining on
Coney Island Balcony Suf-
fers Queer Accident.

NEW YORK. July 27.-NIiss Julia ia
cobson. Of 749 St. AIMS avenue, Bronx,
eating dinner on the second balcony Of
the Bohemia Hotel. on Surf avenue,
Coney Island. yesterday. lost her bal
anCe and fell two stories through sky
light, landing on the range upon which
the remainder OF her meal was cooking
She was taken 10 the Reception Hos
pital. where it was said that she was
suffering from conclusion Of the brain
and bruises She will recover
Henri, the chef, was fiavOring the
soup when the glass skylight over his
head crashed and the young woman
fell on the stove. Pots and pans dis
appeared and lingerie and skirts took
their place.
II was too much for Henri. He nearly
tainted Other members Of the cook
ing STAFF. however, removed the young
woman from amid the kettles and fried
eggs. There was no more cooking done
for some time however, and the guests
had to 20 without their soup.
Several persons who were at nearby
tables say that they saw Miss Jacob
son struggling as If some morseI OF
food had lodged in her throat But
they paid no attention until they saw
her suddenly lean back. pitch over the
low railing and disappear.
The Washington times., 1908-07-27
Bureau Is Han1pered
By Exodus to Camp

Director J. Z. Ralph. OF the Bureau
Of Engraving and Printing. today points
70 hfty-six idle presses, the result Of
the exodus Of the citizen soldIery OF Il {
District to annual eEcampment, as ex-
hibit No. 1 in answer TO the criticism
that he has deprived his employees from
the privilege Of accompanying their
companies % the camp for two weeks.
Mr. Ralph admits that he refused 10
grant leave IT. the case OF one plate
printer who filed his application for
enlistment in the local guard about a
week ego. He holds that the plate
printer IS not Yet a bona fide member
Of the guard. as the military resuia-
lions prOvic5 that no enlistments may
be made thirty days prior to the annual
encampmeIt.
4 called the men working on the
night force into the Office on SATURDAY -
said Mr.. Ralph today, and made az
appeal 10 them 70 remain and assist
with the work OF the bureau. which is
now heavier than ever before because
OF the emergency currency printing !
tod them thar ] would appreciate II
r They would deprive themselves of the
encampment work. but that I recog-
nized the fact that the law gave them
The privilege OF attending the naneu-
Ners.
SO fsT is 1 have been advised. the
appeal was without avail, seventy men
In all being the bureaus Contribution
TO the encampment-H
Mr.. Ralph said that he had autfcipated
the absence % the men for military
duty, and had appointed eighteen tenn
pOrary skilled 1abOrers 10 take the
places Of this class OF wOrkmen but
that II was not possible 10 secure more
plate printers Cor the emergency. As
a result OF this condition. the plate
printers remaining on duty Will have
an extra hour added TO their DAYS Ia
Dor, beginning tomorrow
II is stated today that the military
regulations give officials a certain dis
erection in the matter Of eNCusins en-
plOyes Tor military duty. and that il
Is within the province of administrative
officers 10 retain the men when the
public business demands their services
The Washington times., 1908-07-27
CONQUERING HEROES
TO HAVE OVATION
New York Plans National
Reception to American
Olympic Team.

NEW YORK, July 27.-Acting Mayor
Patrick F. MCGOWAN today viii name
the members OF the big reception corr
nittee TO arrange 4 welcome for the
conquer;ng American athletes Of tho
Olympic games fitting their unpar-
alIeled achievement on track and field
With the selection or the committees
which VIII number many city officials
with representation from the churches.
the army, navy. athletic clubs. the Ju-
dietary and medical profession, the frs;
step toward hOnorins the most magni-
1icent body OF athletes in the history OF
International competitions will DE
1na5e.
II IS planned to give the gigantic Gel
cbration a national character, city and
State officials having already Endorsed
the suggestion President Roosevelt has
been asked to make the congratulatory
address 10 the victorious Americans at
the banquet which will end the formal
festivities.
It is said that it is not unlikely that
should Mr. Roosevelt be unable to well
come the team in this city he may in
wife the victors In a body TO Sagamorc
HDl IN order to tell them how greatly
pleased he IS over their remarkable
showing in London.
Governor hughes has promised 70 at
tend il possible. Three of his military
aides and several members of the State
Legislature surely viii attend.
Until an early hour today President
CONWAY, Of the Ir1sh-American Athletic
Club. had not heard from Commission
CT Sullivan or Captain Robertson rela-
tive TO the teams return on the game
boat At any rate the absence OF four
or five Of the Americans VIII not alter
the plans submitted TO Mayor Nc
Gowan Saturday The team is eXpec-
cd during the first week Of August.
The Washington times., 1908-07-27
AnShipS Safer Than Autos,
Declares French Aeronaf
Henri Farman Reaches New York-Asserts He Can
Make Good Roadway Against Wind in His
Aeroplane

NEW YORK, July 27.-Conhdent OF his
ability TO gain new distinction as an
aerOnaut. Henri Farman, induced TO
come here through a generous Offer by
a St Louis syndicate for a series of
flights in his aerOplane from this and
other cities in the next three months,
arrived here yesterday morning on the
liner La Touraine from France He was
met half way down the bay by dele
cation from the Aero Club OF America,
under whose auspices the ascenslons
will be made, and conveyed in the COM
mittee's tugboat to the steamship land
ing of the French line
Immediately on his stepping from La
TOuraine into the Aero Clubs tug, Far
man was met by an army Of photog-
raphers. and for several minutes he
bravely submitted 10 volleys OF snap
shots. Farman Is slight in build ana
why looking. He wears a pointed beard
and was dressed in ga gray suit, and
wore a golf cap. He speaks excellent
English. although with a strong French
accent. and It was evident he was some
what embarrassed bv his surroundings
and the many new faces.
Impressed With New York
my impressions Of your magnificent
city are at present g bit confused, :"
said the aeroplane expert soon after
he landed, In answer 10 questions
These sl0yscrapers you have are truly
wonderful. but IL would be a dangerous
pleasure to guide an acrOplane over
them. ever IL that were now possible.
LAS regards my present plans, it IS
impossible 70 say just what may be
done. Before deciding anything l must.
Of course. carefully inspect the ground
1 am TO make the ascents from. To
create new things, 10 perfect and mod
fly. is what we all must do continually
There are so many indescribable letails
70 be looked after, and every day
brings changes in my experiments. 1
met Wilbur Wright recently IN Europe,
and found him a charming fellow. l
think the Wright brothers know all
that is now known about aerial navi-
cation, and their progress mas been
highly successful"
Did Not Invent Aeroplane.
Did sou invent your aerOplane your
self2" Farman was asked.
NO, I didn't invent Il, but II was
modelled under my supervision by the
Voisin brothers in Paris. In our works
we really can't do anything alone. We
must always work together. In my ma
chine I have followed. in part. the cal
culations OF Profs. Langley and Lii
ienthal. which were theoretically,
The Washington times., 1908-07-27
KILLS HIS UNCLE
WITH BLOW OF FIST
u. S. Sailor and Relative
Ouarreled in Brook
Ign Barroom.

NEW YORK, July 27--ChristOpher r.
Gully, twenty-six years old. a sailor, at
present attached 70 the receiving ship
Hancock at the Brooklyn navy yard.
was arrested yesterday by the police.
charged with homicide. 1t IS alleged
that he struck his uncle, Daniel Kelly.
nifty years old, who lived in a hotel at
50 Sands street, the blow resulting in
death.
Gully and his uncle could Tot agree
upon any subject and II is said that
every time they met there was a fight
SATURDAY night Kelly stood at The bar
of the hotel when Gully entered. The
young man was in citizens clothes
h2ving obtained a three-days' leave OF
absence Soon an argument started.
and il is alleged that Gully struck his
uncle with mis- fist over the forehead.
The blow made a long cut The elder
man was also knocked against the wall,
striking his head.
The Washington times., 1908-07-27
FRANK H. HITCHCOCK
COMING TO CAPITAL
Republican Committee Chairman
Will Stop Over on His Way
to New York.

Frank II. Hitchcock, chairman CT the
Republican national committee. and the
quietest man IN American politics, viii
return TO Washington Wednesday,
spend two days here. and then 20 10
New York. where he viii have his carr
paign headquarters.
Francis Curtis, head OF the literary
bureaus OF the national and Congress
siOnal committees, received a telegram
from him today announcing these plans.
a I'D asking Curtis 10 be ready 10 move
the literary bureau 10 New York sat
urcay next All literature affecting the
campaign VII be sent out from New
York by Mr.. Curtis and the men ia
his employ.
The Washington times., 1908-07-27
CARDS, RAZOR, AND AK
FIGURE IN MIX-UP
Police Finally Decide on Hand to
Play TO Beat an Ace
High Flush.

With heads and hands wrapped in
bandages and looking much the worse
for q small two-handed card game
John Harrison and Joseph Carter. col
Ored, appeared before Judge KimbaU
this morning TO enter a plea of guilty
Of gambling and assault.
Carter, II is understood. insisted that
a straight was better than an ace high
fish. Harrison demurred and with the
assistance of a razor and an ak pro
ceeded to rake in the pot. Carter, after
obtaining re-enfoTcemcnts IN the shane
OF large bludgeOn and a pocket knife
proceeded TO beat up Harrison.
The police arrived about this time and
arrested them both Each. after a rest
full night at FrcJdman's Hospital, was
ashamed of his Sudden luminosity, and
claiming devotion and insepara bic
friendship FOR the ether, were let down
with three months in the vyorxhouse
apiece.
The Washington times., 1908-07-27
DOG BITE FATAL
AFTER EIGHT MONTHS
New York Policeman, Suddenly
Stricken, Dies From
HvdrOphobia
HydrOphObia.

NEW YORK. July H.-Bitten eight
months ago while playing with a pet
bulldog, James Phillips. a retired police
sergeant. formerly OF the East 12sth
street station. died early today IN the
Presbyterian Hospital OF rabies, after
intense suffering
Phillips was in apparent health less
than Jhirty-slx hours ago.
He was stricken with pains in his
face and limbs, and physicians advised
that he be taken 70 the Pasteur lnsti-
tuteo Doctors there said he had hydro
phobl5. but mat it had advanced too
lar for them 70 do anything.
The Washington times., 1908-07-27

ling Of the Stars and Stripes and col
ors Of the good Green Isle. "Oh.
could just hug him." chorused the girls
In the store. and the little tots who
play about the FOrty-fOurth street
house Joined in the wilG enthusiasm
John Hayes is an ideal boy" said
Joseph Reilly. superintendent Of the
store. who is also a member Of the
Irish-Anerican Club He has worked
faithfully and risen rapidly We did
al we could TO help him along, and
we are mighty proud Of him
John HAYES has shown that size is
not essential to endurance He is 8
feet 3 inches. He is a mild-mannered,
quiet. energetic youth. When he comes
back 10 little old New York he viii get
a rousing reception.
The Washington times., 1908-07-27
AGED MAN DOES TRICKS.

YORK, Pa, July H.-At his home in
Smoky Hollow. this county, yesterday,
Cornelius y. Bailey gathered all his
children, grandchildren. and great
grandchildren together, and entertained
them in a manner that did not seem
70 indicate he had reached the three
score and ten milestone.
he performed various feats to show
the strength he still has. One of the
most amusing things Mr.. Bailey did
was TO climb the side of q windmill tc
an observatory at the top. nearly 1OC
feet from the ground