New-York tribune., 1908-10-11
Paris, September IS.

One Of the Oldest and the greatest masters Of
sartoriaI art II Paris lanents that there is no
longer a true leader OF the modes. was the
case q generation ego-one whose word
imposed new fashion on the rest of her world or
disposed OF x by her disapprobation.
Each client now decides for herself the mode
she will adopt The transition from the ample
skirt TO the close. scant Of the moment shows
q great transformation. Many women still hesi-
tate to accept the new mode, yet by careful study
Of line the results nearly always satisfactory
While this man referred TO presents the long col
liant skirt, he insists the fitness Of II to the
figure and the correctness Of line Nearly all
his skirts have funess the back. hidden under
4 large, fat pleat. TO give room for the movement
of the limbs, ingenious concession Cleverly
he considers conditions Of age size and carriage
Naturally, he says II is easy TO gown a woman
svelte and Of graceful carriage. but true artist
viii strive for success whatever his material A
trIhe makes twist of chiffon or q
turn Of ribbon of value or one may be lost on
another
The new materials displayed in wondrous
variety fascinating Taffeta silks have quite
disappeared: In their place are the new ottomans
the vogue for which amounts to q craze. They
are plain and shaded striped, Bayadere furrowed
and frosted They compose manteeus. tailored
costumes and dressy afternoon gowns In spite
of their thick. heavy appearance, they are ador-
ably soft shaping easily into any desired form
There are new noires also, in changing tones
Of color. OF airy softness: silken fabrics bead
woven, and dainty, velvet embroidered silk It's
sues: superb satins. thick as cloth. their beauty
half hidden under embroidered tulles, shining
velvets ana flet laces embroidered with crystal
beads and drops. besides orepes de Chine
thicker than any ever worn before.
THE'NEw RUssET SHADE.
trimming is generally massed the upper
srt OF cost or bodice the skirt being left classi-
caIly plain. This is the both for morning
gowns and dressy street costumes. So says the
head OF one house. Another, Of equal authority,
shows a long. close redingote Of heavy SILK OF
cloth or Of velvet trimmed with black embroidery
OF soutache braid on the body part, the same
trimming appearing on the skirt on the front
breadth. as side panels. as q deep hem
An afternoon street costume Of the new russet
shade has a plain skirt narrowly edged with black
fur The POINTED revers TO the long redingote, The
Dsrectoire collar and the edge Of the tight sleeves
au show the black fur. Instead OF a fur stole
there viii be with this costume merely
close neckband Of the fur fastened with huge
rosette OF soft black ribbon. The Inuff provided
for il cannot Be fully described by the word large
II is really immense.
Huge lnuffs Of oposs1Irn fur VII be greatly in
vogue the coming winter. The stripes are placed
IN horizontal lines as novelty, the heads Of the
four skins used are placed at the side Of one
opening. the four tails az the other
Truly reraarka BILE for its sober elegance is toi-
let Of heavy black Ottoman that shows not
1norsel trimming its large buttons. covered
smoothly with black satin They turn back the
Directoire and the points OF the collar They
trim the tight sleeves in line from the elbow to
the wrist They hold in place q tiny cluster Of
fulness. high in the back Of the long redingote,
and fasten back, shaping long revers, the front
corners Of the skirt short waistcoat is Of Tich
gold woven ribbon buttoned in acrossing fold with
one large gold button. Above this IS jabot and
stock Of plain. soft, white tulle cravatted with