The Daily Ardmoreite. [volume] (Ardmore, Okla.) 1893-current, 1908-11-08
NEW YORK FASHION LETTER
.FADS AND FANCIES FOR M|LADY

1 On the bodice there was yoke OF
ccru crochet lace bordered with a
band of floss stitching in tan and red
on the cloth set at intervals with blue
net and the sleeves of double blue net
set very far back In square armholos.
Satin is used a very great deal. but
il is the pliable liberty satin in most
eases, not the thick, stiff kind that
once held sway.
laces are used but they must hay
monize with the color scheme. They
may be black. as the old directoire
costumes were frequently in all black
or had sashes in black, and this Gus.
tom is retained IN the revival, or
they may be dyed to match the gowns.
ScllOm is cream or u contrasting col
or used. The chiftons and an the ac-
cessories are black or dyed to match
the costume.
one of the most au,dCji.a new
stocks which combines sort of yoke.
frames the face like flower petals. II
is made of fine wash bobbinet and
Nalencienncs There are two full
plated frills. they are plated together
ana edged with valencieuncs. This
lies close about the face ami deep
double frill like 1t falls over the yoke
and shoulders and ribbon to hide
the Joining passes around and is tied
behind This style is not a good one
Tor short neck.
For a jabot OF washable net, but IN
strip. twenty-five inches long and
wide enough to cover the chest after
IL has been pleated up very fine, this
is laid on both sides D. q tmy nscr-
} ton. fastened to the stock in the mid
die and held with u long bar pin. or
large brooch. A narrow satin ribbon
may be passed under the scarf and
brought around the neck and tied
| with smart bow In the back.
1t is astonishing how the designers
/ have modified all the extremes OF
I fashions to American needs and
4 tastes. The princess gown Is nothing
/ like the gown once seen, the empire
| has been changed so II is practical for
street as well as house.
A costume in brown was recently
made in a street Empire style. The
Empire line above the waistline was
| accumulated by bands OF taffeta, The
gown fell in considerable fullness be-
low the shaped waistline; it had a
slight sweep all about, but could have
| been shorter If desired. There was a
| turnover collar at the neck which was
low, to be worn over a lace stock.
The Empire gown is the correct
mode for evening wear and the plain
| one-piece dress Is the dress for or
dinary day wear With them will be
! worn all sorts of odd wraps and
! cloaks.
! 1t is a fad just now to have a coat
or cloak for each gown. The gown
| Is often made at home and thecoai
/ at the tailors.
! The directoire girdle of satin taffeta
| or faille ribbon, is in keeping with the
| rest of the graceful lowing lines oi
| the seasons styles
Closely-fitting underwear Is a neces
! sity of the seasons directoire styles
and complete revolution Is shown IN
all patterns.
Long sleeves have been decreed fol
all the newest waists. Many have
4 pointed cuffs and the whole sleeve
and yoke especially of waists and
guimpes to be worn under "A one-piec'
costume and entirely of bands o
insertion and embroidered musln'
with many frills of valenciennes lace
Many of the severely tailor-mad'
models have the sleeves set in as
plainly as a. mans coat, without any
fullness at the armhole. The arm
hole is really large and usually con
cealed by a flat braid