davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29
Upto-Date Neck Fixings of the Smart Autumn Outfit

nights ago at an informal dinner, followed
by a visit to q vaudeville entertainment.
the wearer. pretty matron. but neither
a sylph or one Of the graces. yet looking
like both in her pale yellow wolfe gown.
Its skirt was simply faced on the bottom
with the same shade Of liberty satin four
inches deep. A long tunic shawl. pointed
back and front. had also a three-inch fac
ing to match. The bodice and short
sleeves were all of a piece. while the full
ness thus created was drawn from its
half-low front decolletage. toward the
shortwaisted middle belt line. and there
held by a fine gold buckle. A narrow
band of yellow satin bordered the bottom
Of the short wide sleeves. and the same
satin belted In the waist. where another
and larger gold buckle fastened the belt
in the back. For edge to the square decoi-
letage was a narrow line OF gold thread
tracery and above it a yellowish entire
deux OF lace, keeping up the square line
also. Long lace sleeves TO match, well
wrinkled over the arms. fell to the second
joint OF the fingers Of the hand. Fasci-
mating indeed were the lines of this
charming gown. and becoming was II TO
q degree. large white lace hat was
worn laden with white sigrettes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29

The woman who possesses a sash will
find it a most useful adjunct to her
wardrobe this fall and winter. Naturally.
one of black satin will prove most prac-
ticable. Sashes are seen on many Of the
newly imported tailored street suits, add
ing a smart touch pleasing to the sim
plest Of them. They are. OF course. used
only on the directaire type of costume
that is worn for walking, and would look
absurd in connection with the we'll known
and beloved Prince Chap coat and pleated
skirt. In the house. however. the sash Is
another matter. and may prove innn.elS
useful in refurnishing a last years after
noon frock or concealing a waist line
that is lower than it should be. One
pretty way of arranging a sash is to adj
Just 1t in deep girdle form. SO that 1t
shall cross at the back. The ends are
then carried toward the front. tied tribe
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29
For Early Fall Wear.

For the first days OF autumn. when
coat II burdensome and yet some slight
protection Is necessary. the pelerine Is
4 bout the best excuse for a wrap that
was ever invented. 1t may be Of almost
amy kind Of all-over heavily meshed lace,
and looks we'll in black or some dark
shade Of blue. gray or brown that Is not
IN too strong contrast with the costume.
Presumably Of English mohair. pongee or
{pulard. This season the pelerine Is made
{, fall far over the shoulders. often ex-
sending quite to the elbows. The fronts.
with. stole-shaped rather. than broad
{nds. do not quite meet across the bust.
shey may be allowed to fall straight to
tse knees, but IL not becoming to the. hg-
Ore thus arranged may be knotted at one
4de to simulate a hip sash. II Is quite
Possible to develop pelerine In soft twtlled
r:llks by shaping the cape portion ana
BORDERING it with fringe. in which event
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29

five-inch ends, which are finished with a
little frill of lace that is shirred up into
tassel form.
Among the stocks that are most easily
made by the amateur are those Of all
over heavy lace. shaped high at the sides
and back. but slightly dipping in front.
The tops are finished with half-inch
frill Of fine tulle. thickly plated. and at
the bottom edge there 10 similar one.
but of twice the width Of that at the top.
This stock fastens at the back with a
triple set Of jeweled pins. Another on the
same order is made OF Joined bands OF
lace or fine muslin embroidery. and has
a matching ruche at the top. while the
bottom edge is concealed under the band
of long tie of muslin and lace which has
first pleated, lace-edged butterfly bow,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29
Fashion Paragraphs.

at the left side and permitted to fall, one
slightly overlapping the other. to the
knees.
Evening hArdressings are more than
ever a matter OF Importance. Fortunate
ly for many Of us. there are numbers
of inexpensive aids to a chic effect. One
of these Is the use OF gold and silver
braid and ribbon run into the loops be-
tween the puffs or forming q filet band
above the brow. II the face 10 OF the
babyish. coquettish type little bows OF
metallic ribbon may be placed here and
there and arranged to stand up or to lie
fatty. according to their becomingness.
Black velvet and tulle bows and aigrettes
are much affected for evening. as they
are supposed to bring out the coloring OF
the hair, but II is sometimes better to use
bows that are as nearly as possible the
color of the locks Yellow satin ribbon.
for instance. would serve to deepen the
gold OF pale blond hair and Etruscan
gold braid to lend luster to a Titan
shaded coiffure
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29

the most exquisite blouses are bewiideF-
ing combinations Of lace. batiste and en-
broidery, and some show no linen what
ever, but are of English eyelet and lace.
In all cases they show tendency to
cling rather closely to the figure with
out being in the least degree fitted to
it. and the yokes. always marked de-
tail. are OF innumerable shapes. Much
the same designs are seen in the taffetas.
liberty satin and China silk blouses, save
that heavy laces are always used In lieu
of embrefderies.
Empire Blouse Effects.
Short-waisted effects and raised girdles
have brought about novelty In separate
blouses which is only good with the
skirts having attached deep belts. so
that they may appear to fall in an I'M
broken line from almost below the arms
to the hem. A bodice, of net designed
to accompany long, sheath skirt Of pro-
nounced directoire type is shirred on to
a round yoke Of heavily applied net. This
is trimmed with q broad band of all
over lace crossing the shoulders in Jump
er fashion and SO curving at the center
of front and back that it seems to over
lap the top of the skirt. Narrow bands
Of allover lace crossing the jumper at
back and front and passing under the
sleeves which are small, shirred NOUS
quetaiSes set almost plainly into the real
arm size.
Broad Crash Belts.
No minor detail of the toilette so inter-
feres with and oftentimes completely de-
stroys the original idea of the designer
of blouse as does the character of the
belt worn with 1t. Needless to state
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29
Feminine Comforts in
Hospitals.

When the wealthy woman OF today goes
to a private hospital she takes with her
all the comforts Of home and more than
are dreamed OF In the average domestic
circle. With her is her maid: many
times Buttons also is In attendance.
A private ceIlaret with which to regale
her friends during convalescence has
more than often been an incidental, while
as for flowers and other accessories there
are any amount OF them.
Even the most popular private hospital
affected by society women is but meager
in its furnishings, The tenets OF by
giene would be violated were there hang
ings and decorations. Therefore. room.
for which the charge is $l25 a week. in
Guiding board and the barest attendance.
has merely a bed, bureau. occasionally a
couch, table. washstand and several
chairs. This is the aspect when II is en-
gagged for several weeks. or even perhaps
for only ten days. by women whose homes
are the perfection of luxury.
To be surrounded by less pleasing en-
yironment when one is convalescing than
when one is quite we'll is palpably impos-
sible, and. therefore. when arrangements
are made for occupying the room the
housekeeper of any private hospital has
become quite accustomed to being told
to look after the placing of few things
which she will bring.
Precisely what these things are and
what the daily life OF the patient may be
after the operation depends entirely upon
different individuals. One woman. whose
name is synonymous with millions. en-
gagged not only a large double room. but
q single one connecting. In the latter the
bed was taken down and by her orders
all the furniture was removed from the
large room. From her house she sent
down a complete outfit to replace IL. She
had her own bed dressing table. chairs.
lounge. tables. rugs, draperies. lamps and
other decorations. Pictures were hung.
Her maid. who arrived with her and
stayed the entire time. brought all the
accessories OF an elaborate toilet and
madame was arranged each day by most
perfect art to look her best. In the small
room soft draperies were put up at the
windows and the place was converted
into a luxurious reception room, conspicu-
Gus in which was a beautifully appointed
tea table.
In charge Of this room was Buttons"
sent for by madame as soon as she
was installed. and the pages duty was
not only to open doors to receive tho
cards of madames many callers. but
also. after she began to mend. to see
that the decanters on the table were
never empty and that cold siphons were
always at hand and cakes and biscuits
never lacking.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29
Broad Crash Belts.

they need not be worn In pure Khite-in
that soft banana shade that comes only
from old age (some relics Of the great
marquis which we viewed quite recently
are of an oaten hue) or in what is almost
a primrose tint, these muslin and embroid
cry trif1es are still smarter. And d collar
made in this shape. falling OVER the usual
band or false collar inside, looks well il
Set in pIeats like the one of Lord Somer-
set attributed to John Hoskins in the Ma
tional Portrait Gallery. or in fine pleated
tulle. lace edged. after the manner of the
Elizabethan ruff. says the Queen. For
everyday wear, lawn with the old-fash-
toned picot edge. and a little cord and
tassels to tie it IL necessary. may be ad
vised, and if cut in the shape like those
We know SO well in the portraits of Richie
lieu. this small finish adds to the effect.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29
Pretty Sash ManipuIations.
From Vogue

At the races one sees many sashes worn
about the foundations under transparent
tunics. the sash gathering the skirt rath-
er closely about the knees or dropping
even lower than the knees on one side,
while the tunic. shorter in front than be-
hind. alone retains a flowing outline. Tai
lored coat and skirts in chalk white tus-
sore with quantities of soutache and of a
zigzae trimming of silk cork as thick as
ones thumb many tiny silk buttons elab-
Grating the design as well. are worn with
sashes of white silk having roman
stripes. sometimes tied across the bust in
side the coat, the ends hanging down be-
hind in fiat tails longer than the coat. or
again worn outside the coat diagonally
under one arm and knotting on the op-
posite shoulder with buckle and one end
falling down the back a little way.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29

taken such possession of womankind that
they are made of every imaginable ma
terial Although many Of them are decked
with fine lace the latest cry Is for those
finished with the finest Of hand-hem-
stitching or frilling. One Of these models
in the sheerest OF batiste has a double
pleated neckband and q jabot end
scheme in the form OF five batiste ruff
fies graduated in width as well as in
depth. The four lower ruffles are at
tached to one end Of the heckbaud and
the smallest and top RUNE TO the other
end. The latter Is slipped through a
loose band Of batiste just above the quar-
tet Of ,runies. and thus the jabot Is Sc
cured IN place.
Bows to match many Of the standing
and Eton coliar-and-euff sets which are
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29
Collars.

The little turnover Puritan collars are
very pretty to wear. especially with SIM
pie gowns and those of the washing sort.
In very fine. clear. chalk-whiteo muslin,
with embroideries at the elge Of deep
hem with simple beading. they look de-
lightful or with the hem edged again with
a very narrow lace. put on straight. But
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29
The Tailored Shirt Waist and the Street
Suits -" Jackie" Waists for Those
Who Favor Nautical Effects
Waist Helps for the Busi-
ness Woman Belts.

4 MONG the new tailored shirt
"a waists of linen which will be
more than ever worn this
autumn, especially with those
simple. smart English mohair
and lightweight street suits. are two
models which deserve consideration at
the hands Of the girl who is SO energetic
!: that she prefers to fashion her own
blouses. One of these is rather military
in effect. as 1t is all but close fitting, the
narrow box pleats in which its fronts and
back are laid being stitched down fatty.
The fronts close blindly beneath ny. and
decorating them are two three-set groups
fof black braid military ornaments loop
ing over tiny buttons. The rather small
shirt sleeves are box pleated horizontally
from shoulder to cuffs which, like the
high collar, are trimmed to match the
blouse front. The other waist has two
deep side pleats crossing the shoulders. a
wide front fastening obvious buttons and
regulation mannish shirt sleeves. "
!: The Nautical Blouse Again.
The Jackie waist has ever appealed
to the girl who likes a comfortable morn
ing blouse. Some of the new models are
made up In the striped washable silks
showing bayadere effects. or the dull
browns, grays and blues which accord SO
well with mohair gold skirts. and a great
many of them are made Of thin cash.
mere. challie or nuns yelling.
II the blouse is not designed to be
washed it is trimmed with fancy silk
braid or with narrow ribbon, otherwise
tailored stitching is advisable.
Unbleached Muslin for Outings.
Unbleached shirt waists strictly for au-
tumn outing purposes are made in con-
ventional shirt-waist style, with rather
full, untucked fronts and back, turnover
soft collars and three-quarters sleeves
with turnback cuffs. Others are In sailor
style. with no opening in front or back.
but with the neck sufficiently wide that
they may be slipped on over the head.
Most Of them have colored collars, and
tufts and straight, narrow belts. as those
are the portions of the garment liable to
become most readily soiled. They are
worn with skirts of heavy plain colored
cotton. usually denim. which is the best
of all materials for fishing. boating and
flimbing.
Japanese Cotton Crepes.
For the economical tourist or the bust
ness woman who must carefully count
she pennies of her weekly stipend the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29

the ecclesiastical ends must be of the
silks width and finished with much long
er fringe than that used elsewhere.
drawn together and terminated with a
silken tassel.
Any one who is contemplating the
making over or rejuvenation Of a foulard
or wolfe skirt of last season into one
which conforms somewhat to the lines
prescribed fdc autumn may be. able to
contrive one Of the new trained shapes
which have q wide flare at the foot and
no seam down the center. or else bias
joining Of the material at that point
Over the hips there should be series OF
small pleats which will shape the gar
ment to the figure without drawing In
too much fullness above the knees. The
opening is at the back, whore q tailor
finish may he given by means OF a
stitched strap, which will aiso serve to
stay the bias seam. Unless this seam ID
slightly stretched as the strap 10 bastod on
the skirt will certainly SAG at either side
Of it.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29
Classic Styles Popular.
fAm EnSue.

There can be no disputing the hold that
classic styles are taking, nor can one fail
to become entranced with the way In
which they have been modernized. They
give unusual charm to the figure, and con-
tribute a special grace to many women
heretofore not reputed to possess that
gift in great measure. Take, for instance.
a gown Of this simplicity, worn q few
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29

over which is intertwined white satin
ribbon, which, having formed the band
knot, extends into a twisted four-inch
loop and this in turn supports a double
frill jabot of batiste edged with lace.
To launder this would necesstate the rip
ping apart of the entire bow. OF the same
order, but much more elaborate, is a sort
of pointed chemisette made of plated lace
or muslin embroidery having scalloped
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29

blouses Of japanese cotton crepe are a
real boon. Preferably such garments
should not be tucked. as they will then
be less readily home" laundered. but
they may have deep shoulder pleats and
invisible front bands and their collars
and cuffs should be detachable. When
soiled they need only be washed in luke
warm water with first-class laundry soap,
to dry. Ironing is not absolutely neces-
sary.
Pique Is Popular.
Because of its we'll known launderable
qualities pioue is fast becoming a popular
material for separate waists OF the
severely tailored type. Because Of the
weight and firmness OF the weave it is
difficult to pleat 1t finely or launder it
satisfactorily when 50 treated. Conse-
quently the majority Of such blouses are
made on the general lines Of the Peter
Pan. but without the distinguishing little
pocket and the visible front opening. In
stead Of pleats bands Of bold openwork
embroidery are employed vertically on
fronts and back. or the blouse is gener-
ously embroidered in self-colored SOU
tache. This makes 1t infinitely more
ornamental than the strictly tailored
garment of less flexible material and it is
perfectly adapted to even midwinter
weather. as a thick high-necked and long
sleeved underwaist may be worn beneath
1t without any chance OF being detected.
Tailored Waist Belts.
Before leaving the topic OF strictly
tailored and utility waists designed to ac-
company natty short skirts 1t may be
stated that the correct belt should be Sc
verely plain.
Woven cotton beltinss come in embroid-
cred effects in every imaginable color.
with white or black and in broad Or me-
dunn width. There are all-silk beltings
in similar. effects as well as those in
silk elastic but the smartest tailor CIR
dies Of the moment are the MORE silk
beltings. These come by the yard and
their ends need only be slipped through
the buckles. of which every woman
should have several sets-b!ack, white
and silver or gilt metal.
The Business Woman's Blouse.
Women who go early to business and
must necessarily dress hnriedly are hail
ing with delight a new waist which opens
in front and is guiltless of the omnipres-
ent box pleat and button fastening.
These are being made up in poRgee. mo-
hair. soft silk and lightweight French
flannel and are so simple that even an
amateur may hope to turn out salts
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29

finished with military rosette and two
half-yard lengths Of black satin ribbon.
Hight turnover collars OF embroidered
linen or lace are worn with tailored cos
tunes of mohair. pongee and lightweight
serge. With them are seen the daintiest
OF fluffy bows and frills and every lmag-
Unable sort of jabot. rabat and frill that
the brain OF womankind' can invent. In
fact, the passion for jabot effects has
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29

developed in the sheerest of embroidered
linen with lace insets are made OF hnely
plated white lawn or null. some Of them
with colored or embroidered borders.
There are also bows and cravats of lace.
silk or velvet to hide the joining line OF
stock and blouse. One accessory OF this
type is d narrow silk cravat which is
twisted carlessly about the throat. knot
ted in front and allowed to fall in two
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29

factory specimen. The narrow piped
pleats crossing the shoulder are stitched
down fatty and into the small arm size
which is also piped. and the long sleeve,
with Just a suggestion of fullness at the
top and close fitting at the wrist, Is nm
ished with a narrow turnback cum. the
fronts. ornamented with buttons ana coro
loops. close invisibly with snap fasteners
and the plain standing collar Is freshened
daily with a narrow embroidered muslin
turnover.
Striped Materials Smart.
In the shops at this season are to be
picked up an infinite variety Of remnants.
from which may be evolved exceedingly
attractive looking separate waists which
will serve for any number OF occasions
when it is not convenient to wear an
suit and waist would be out Of the ques-
tion, Some Of these fabrics are in white
and delicate shades OF blue and rose, with
fine satin stripes of self-color; Often
these materials are SO wide tnat Two
with many fine pleats forming a yoke
across the shoulders. onto which may be
set q pointed or square lace yoke: Dor
dered with plain satin or velvet RIBBON,
and finished with high stock coIar.
or pun order, Of seven-eighths length,
shirred into the armsize and finished be-
low the elbow with Van Dyke cuf1s OF
lace. ribbon bound. After the waist is
completed the silk should be cut away
from beneath the lace trimming the yoke,
collar and sleeves as the semi-transpar-
ent effact will add UNNECESSARILY by Its
dressy appearance.
The Pompadour Fad.
The fancy for fiowered materials which
has prevailed during the summer still ex-
tends to the separate waists. which, mer-
cifully, has not been developed in printed
cretonne. although there were boleros.
overwaists. high girdles, collars and GUNS
Of It. Nothing was lacking save the
sleeves and yoke. Having been spared
these we may regard the silk hoWered
muslin waist admirably. This looks de-
Iiehtfully summary. whereas it is suita-
BILE for the coolest of weather, being ined.
previous to being pleated or tucked, with
thin India silk Of the same tint as the
grounding of the semi-transparent ma
ferial These blouses do not require any
lace trimmings and their principal points
Of decoration are the fronts. which show
a frilly jabot Of finest lowered net and
their mousuuetaire sleeves which are
shirred in three sections upon narrow
ribbons extending from shoulder to wrist.
where deep net ruffies fall over the hand.
Net Blouses for Winter.
The net blouses which have played so
important a role for months past will be
worn throughout the winter. but in a SIM
pier form, as not so much lace and more
tucking will be employed in their makeup.
For this reason a very good quality of net
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29

Why should we forego pleasure for the
sake Of convention? What is convention
after all but an finconvenient obstacle to
getting the best out of life.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29

edge This is attached to stock made
Of strands of wide black velvet ribbon
finished at the top With narrow lace
frill and closing at the back with long
loops and ends of black velvet ribbon.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-29

that with any sort OF dressy waist a
stiff belt is absolutely out OF place. While
a draped or crush broad belt Is apt 20
be trying to some figures. il yet may he
so c,everly made as TO be exceeding be-
coming and lend slenderness rather than
bulk at the waistline. II possible such a
girdle should be OF the same cplor. IL
not material, as the blouse. and 30 shaped
as to be short over the hips and pointed
at the back