Waterbury evening Democrat., 1908-04-07

painful element of uncertainty about
 the situation that makes the world of
 womankind anxious as to what will be the
 outcome of it all. The statement has
 been made and is constantly being reit-
 erated that there is to be no marked diff
 ference in the styles of the coming sum-
 mer from those that were fashionable last
 year, and that the clothes that were smart
 twelve months ago are still smart. Never
 was there more misleading statement
 foisted upon a long suffering public, the
 only grain of truth in the matter being
 that there are so many different styles in
 dress this year that anything that may be
 better than usual on account of this same
 variety, but that the gown will merit being
 called smart is absurd!
 Bewildering in the extreme it is to try
 10 decide upon any fixed principle in the
 new frocks. Long unbroken lines have
 been commended for such length of time
 that the introduction of draperies. double
 skirts and tunics is not hailed with enthu-
 siasm by either the dressmakers or their
 customers.
 The picturesque note is sounded firm
 and strong, and a wide field forthwith
 spreads out before the lovers of the pie
 turesque The artistic, not as is some
 times imagined the same thing as pie
 turesque, is also to the fore, and here
 opens a pitfall for the woman. To be
 artistically clothed is rarely if ever to
 be smartly gowned. A smartly gowned
 woman may look artistic; rarely if ever
 does an artistically clothed woman look
 smart, and the subtle distinction is a
 most serious one.
 ADVANTAGE OF BROAD SHOULDERS.
 The lines of the figure, about which so
 much has been said in regard to becom-
 ing dress, are not so serious considera-
 ton as formerly, and apparently more
 attention is paid to the lines of dress, the figure acting as sort of framework on which the material is draped. Con- sequently, the woman with broad shoul- ders has again the advantage. Broad hips are no advantage, so that there must still be war waged on undue pro- portions in order to attain the desired effect of grace and fashion combined. In truth the modern dressmaker must be indeed a gifted and cultivated parsonage if she would succeed in this age of the worlds progress.
 Will the overskirt return to favor-the tunic, as it is now known? It is fashion immensely becoming when becoming at all, but an exceedingly difficult one for any one at all inclined to be large Tor in order to carry out the real fashion thoroughly there requires to be used such an amount of material that there is al- ways danger of adding to the size of the wearer. Here is where the art of the The seams and gores are so cleverly designed that there is not an inch more material used than is possible to obtain the right appearance. At the same time there is never noticeable any too eco- nomical use of fabric. There are endless of the tunic skirt. It is pointed, 1t is rounded, it is square, almost, at the back, pointed in front, and vice versa, through all the endless variations that fashion and dressmakers can carry out on an original scheme. It must be cut with reference to the individual wearer-that is this seasons clothes are without exception distinctive, and by dis tinctive Is meant individual The most , becoming of the tunic skirts are those where the tunic is long-almost as long as the skirt itself-and falling over a wide ' 1ounce of the same material. This tunic is bordered with a plain or embroidered U band. The f1ounce can be finished in the lame manner or be plain-that is to be nitted that as a rule the trimmed effects II Ire the most popular for the moment. II
 The backs of all evening gowns this season are most elaborate in design and V the tunic effect is very pronounced. If he gown itself is not cut in that fashion D t is trimmed to give that appearance, . snd often the back Is more elaborate in design that the front The most ex- luisite embroidery and trimmings are shown in the back of the gown, while the study of the lines of the figure as well as the lines of the gown Is deemed all 
 SEVERELY PLAIN MODELS.
 There are, of course. any number of 'mart evening gowns made on the severely plain models that have been in style so ong, and they are certainly most charm ng. The modified or. rather. combined Empire princess style is almost without becoming, and its very severity 'erves but to accentuate the beauty of he figure and to show off the material to he Jest advantage. The soft satin and .hiffon velvets. the skirt plain or with ,nly a band of embroidery around the lem and the costly trimming on the lpper part of the waist. has a great harm or course. though. the fashion s no longer new. II has been popular bow for several months. and in spite of Nuntless little variations it is still the tl .Tisinal theme. SD to speak Conse- 1T Iuently in most thorough outfits such bJ town is already included
 Ehin materials are fhe ones most th uitahle for inc evening gowns being of ,iade uP at The moment. Chiffon and ba ome novelties in ihe finest of transparent ei abrics are exhibited as the latest styles. IS ,hile ihp embroidery is of even finer ar if that can he possible. th han ever. Jet. silver. rhines.unes and IT swelled embroidery If aIl cvloTs are used. sc ot q great deal of it. however. ani inc of