Bryan morning eagle. [volume] (Bryan, Tex.) 1898-1909, 1908-10-25
FADs AND FASHIONS.

to visit the large and fash
ionable shops this season than ever
before. The reason is that never has
there been such a bewildering wealth
and variety of beautiful materials,
trimmings and accessories and of fin.
ished models exhibited as just now.
Those who are in a positionn to know,
say that owing to the stringency of
the money market last year compare
lively little was spent for gowns and
other things dear to every woman.
The manufacturers, dealers and dress
makers alike felt the effect of the
panic and, to make business brisker
this year they combined their ingenu.
ity and efforts and planned effects,
both of color and material, they felt
sure would prove irresistible. A
glance at the display in any fashiona-
BILE establishment will suffice to show
how well they have succeeded.
Not so very long ago simple colors
were the style and only the most sub
tie and harmonious combinations OF
shades of the same color were permits
'sible in the same costume. Today all
that is changed. The variety of colors
and shades, of texture and finish OF
materials has become multiplied a
thousandfold compared with former
years and there is scarcely any limit
to the number of colors that may be
combined in the same costume. The
most daring combinations, producing
an effect of barbaric splendor, are
found by the side OF the most chaste
and subdued combinations. Particu'
larly in colors the variety to be found
in the shops is so great that there Is
no longer an excuse for any woman
who does not find exactly the right
color best suited to her complexion.
Notwithstanding the fact that colors,
even those of the loud and glazing kind
are extremely fashionable this season,
there is great demand for blacks
and grays. 1t may be said that gray
is one of the dominant colors OF the
season. Apropos of gray a word Of
warning may not be amiss. Gray is
undoubtedly a beautiful and pleasing
color. but il Is not for every woman.
Only too often women OF middle age,
who are colorless. anaemic and have
the "washed-out" complexion of inval-
ids make the mistake of wearing
gray. They should never do so. II
merely accentuates their lack of color
and gives them the appearance OF NOV
ing corpses an effect decidedly unde-
sirable. Gray, even the most lifeless
and dead, is suitable for young girls
who have a great deal of color in
skin and hair. reven for middle aged
women of the ford and healthy look
ing type, but never for the pale and
faded women with dark lines under
her eyes and wrinkles in her bloodless
cheeks.
For practical street suits of the mod
flied Directoire type. such as are de-
veloped in beautifully finished sicilien'
nes. serges and worsteds checks and
strypes are far more popular than are
plain effects. Many of these fabrics
are in two tones Of one color, although
in some having wide checks and dis
tinctly separated hairlines are seen
rather startling contrasts. These are
especially notable in the combinations
of blacf brown and blue. with white.
One of the most attractive features
of the present Directoire style is the
waistcoat, which usually is made sep
arately from the jacFet, and may be
worn or not. as desired. For these
vests are used the beautiful brocaded
SILKS and satins which show figures
and flowers in brilliant tints upon
groundings precisely the shade OF the
cloth costume with which they are en-
Moved. Or again, they are OF satin
70 match the Directoire scarf. which
IS often arranged to cover the lower
edge of the waistcoat. when 1t is at
tached to the outer wrap as is ire
ouentlv the case, the girdle passing
under the coat at the back. over the
waistcoat in front. and then knotted
at the left side below the hips.
A collar that will almost take tne
Mace of a fur piece for the neck ana
one that will assuredly prove COM
fort for the first cool days OF autumn
is the Directoire, a smart CONNECTION
which almost any one can fashion. IL
10 simply a wide band OF satin
trimmed with closely set mario"
hands of any long-haired fur prelera
blv black marten, and on either edge
is set a two-inch-wide box-plaited sa
tin ribbon ruche. which may be edged
with fur or not, according to taste
The ends are finished with large 70
settles of satin ribbon, from which