New-York tribune., 1908-02-16
WHEN KING CHAMPAGNE RE1GNS.

When game. perhaps some dainty "perdreaux a
la Souvaroff.'' is served. the gourmet diner will
perhaps sundry poppings like signal guns have
warned hm-expect to have some foaming cham
pagne poured into the waiting glass; some of that
erstwhiie imprisoned liquid sunshine offering a
pleasing contrast the emnently respectable
wines from Burgundy which have preceded IT. 1t
now supplants the ruby spot upon the snow white
cloth. confident of the favor of the company, pro
vided il be of good vintage, cold but not frappe
and Of course dry" If the wines that preceded
have in their various fashions given zest TO the
appetite a generous glow and comfort to that
mysterious individual, the inner man." the prov
ince OF King Champagne is add JOY and light
heartedness its acknowledge dietetic virtues
W m @ me osIc mi Of eferTeseent good humor
cool and dry Wit, mis- Sayety is contagious, and
il would be indeed a company OF dunards Whlcn
did not respond TO ms Pasnae lnSiuatlDnT 1h 1t
test by which the anxious hostess may deIlSht IN
success deplore failure. If the coming of the
Moet Brut Imperial does not rouse latent wit; tap
anecdotal wells or stimulate reminiscent moods in
her guests. the fault hes not with the WINE from
Epernay. but surely in her own misguided JudS-
ment in the selection seating of the company
all festal occasions and during formal func-
ners. With sandwiches truffied delicacies it re-
freshes one on a picnic or a journey. 1t is part
Wan{ MANY pI% frsnds @ aO"aTd sp tb Wbit
WaV. of Watterson's provincial New York. do
without its nightly quota of White Seal? 1t could
or furries it will not. Originating in France. the
character whose people it is supposed TO typify
patron and supporter. Another evidence, says the
pulsive character of the people OF TINS country,
notwithstanding their Anglo Saxon civilization. Be
energefic and enthusiastic temperament our love
of action and our aim to accomplish something
lives and cheers. For
Brightly the joyous stream shall flow
To balsam every mortal woe"
In addition this pleasurable aspect. the famous
surgeon at the board might. If asked tell his
nasne and its value as a restorative and tonic
Which had come under his observation a gen
9uote me Eoishy s2t eSed bn cb fop
cases Lord Beaconsfield preferred it in jelly
form. and others consider it Invaluable in malaria.
nervous debility and convalescence.
The discovery of champagne belongs to Bene-
died in i7I5 These monks possessed extensive vine
yards and devoted much Of their time to viticult
erty of Count CASTOR Chandon de Briales who
factor of tine champagne district. His memory is
also kept green by stained glass window IN NTH the
ment at Epernay SO while You drink this
sparkling wine think of worthy Dom Perignon who
heritage. to dispel gloomy thoughts, relieve suf-
fering and sdye touch Of harmless exhilaration
ern scientific methods crude methods prevailed in
the grape and the blending of its product. From
the selection and training of the vines. the inspec
tion and treatment Of the soil. to the final step
OF bottling and seasoning of the product. the
process is of infinite and expertness.
When toward the fail the black full bloom grapes
in the waving vineyards ripe. after the
ious watching Of months for propitious weather.
the harVesterS advised. Then in their blue
blouses. typically French, with their snowy
caps and brightly garbed children all flock The
Sunlit helds-ther fields where generation after
generation have labored with love and pride, pride
in their district. be 1t Hautyilers. Ay, Epernay
Reims, and jealous of its reputation Let hope
that there has not been too much rain during that
summer, because the crop. though somewhat
scanty. will be of high flavor. Then shall have
a vintage year The product of the best estab-
lishments is. however, so carefully married" that
wine OF standard excellence Is always main
tanned. though il is natural that the vintage OF
some historic years commands higher price.
After being carried from the fields in baskets the
grapes dumped into the ''pressoirs. huge steam
presses. at the different vineyards. from whence
the juice is carried into the cellars left
to fern1ent. About Christmas time
rtcked of and dispatched TO the chief depots 10
develop and await bottiing Months afterward
toward the following April, delicate process
in champagne making begins. The mixiag OF the
wines. called marrying takes place in titanic
watts: rold over 1909 gallons There are pad
dies inside which agitate the wine until II is tho--
oughly blended This process Is in no doc
toring' but Il scientific combining of one vintage
with another TO secure the best results. The pr 3D.
uci. called the cuvee- is row ready to be bottled
II i3 interesting to note the great exercised
IN the selection OF these bottles and their very
careful examination and washing. This u done