The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1908-06-15

where the trail led, there was to be
had as delicious a drink as from any
New England brook. The water was
clear and cold and refreshed me for
the next two gulches.
l reached~Kipahulu with my Hawai-
ian carpenter in time to look over the
parsonage that needed repairing, or
dered the lumber by telephone from
Kahului, fifty miles away straight over
the mountain, but eighty miles by the
usual trail, and by $50 was on my
way back to Kaupo. This time l was
helped out by a kindly native by the
name of Kapoi, which means "the
poi (poi is the principal dish of the
Hawaiians). He loaned me a fine lit
tie horse, which was small enough to
allow me to ride carefully down the
pals. The girth came loose just be-
fore I began the first descent. / was
glad enough this didn't happen as I
was turning one of the narrow bends
of the trail, where l could look 900
feet straight down into the sea. I
prefer to take my ducking from a
less lofty hight. The native Of whom
I got the horse had a handsome old
Hawaiian stone adze, which he willing
~ sold to me to add to my collection
of rare island curios.
Reaching Kaupo at 7:30. I found Mr..
Turner and the pastor of the church
waiting for me with a delicious supper
of sweet potato. sardines, Hawaiian
bareback, and great pitcher of strong
native coffee. Our keen appetites were
ready to make a clean sweep of every
thing, but we stopped a little short, so
that the rest of the people who were
in the house might have something.
At $50 we began a service in the
church. which was half filled with ma
tives. some of whom had walked two
miles to hear the 'Haole Kahunapule,"
or white preachers, as we are called.
They listened eagerly and at $50 took
their lanterns and walked home. 1t is
a pleasure to work for such a loving,
receptive people, who quickly respond
to an appeal. These people out of their
poverty have gradually deposited with
me the sum of $3.50, and when I told
them a friend had added $50 to this
amount. they were as happy as chill
dren. The inside lining of the stone
walls of the church had largely fallen
down, but the outside had to be ce-
mented first TO keep out the rain, and
then later. as soon as the money is col
lected. a dollar at a time. I shall be
able to put thin coating on the in
side and paint the woodwork. Were
Eastern givers to see the generosity Of
the Hawaiians, who have had Chris
tianity about IS years. we'll would they
wonder.
Just above this church stands the
ruins of an enormous "heiau." which
was once the center of heather wor-
ship in this part Of the island. On
the way we saw an altar to the fish
god. Il was now in ruins There is
no country in the world which has been
so quickly and so completely Chris
tanned as our Hawaii!
Early Friday morning at SIS we
were once more on our rested horses,
the first gradual ascent into
the Kaupo gap of the crater of Hale
akala. We passed by several we'll
preserved grass houses. which are still
lived in. In the moonlight we could
clearly distinguish the ruins Of many
others. BY sunrise we were up some
5000 feet. and could thoroughly enjoy
the glory OF the morning light gradual
~ breaking. Soon we were under the
great windward wall Of the gap and