The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-03-15

and there are great braided buttons with
pendants set at the bust line, holding the
drapery. and between the shoulder blades
IN the back,
Costumes similar In general character
10 this are 10 be seen In all the exclusive
importing houses, and there are charming
models too In the supple satins which have
been 90 much worn all winter and are
apparently TO continue their popularity
throughout the summer. A most pictdrr
esqus costume, 90 elabCrEteand unusual that
one feels obligated 10 call II by some name
more aristocrahc than jumper, Is In castor
brown satin messalne.
Il has a princess robe. plain and olinging
Of skirt, swathed closely round the waiat
and cut very low and broadly square 10 show
a guimpe Of net and lace. Here again a fine
soutache braidinR IL used as trimming, but
aside from the lovely lines Of the princess
the shaping Of the coat is the distinctive
feature Of this model,
The coat in the back hsngS like a priests
robe, long. straight, square cornered. fall
ing from low on the shoulder 10 more than
three-quarter length. and Il Is finely en-
broidered 10 soutache almost all over Its
surface. though the extreme suppleness Of
the satin prevents the braiding from, Stifen-
ing the loose folds. From the shoulders
In the front the material falls In square
cornered straight bolerolike fashion TO
the waist line, but on the inside next the
guimpe scarfike pieces are cut from this
bOlero arrangement and cross like draped
bretelles, buttoning 10 the princess girdle
and holding the cloak In place.
Extreme. Of course, but wonderfully
graceful, and because Of its moonstOne color
ing and total absence Of aggressive detail the
costume has a certain refinement and quiet
elegance despite lis striking lines.
And the natural tone pongeesl Such de-
lectable little frocks in these materials and
~shadings. Much has already been said
concerning them in these columns, but each
day brings out new and attractive models
in this class.
There are the princess frocks without
coats, the princess frocks with somewhat
severe tailored coats. the coats and skirts
with separate blouses, and the princess
frooks with loose long picturesque coats
Of the elaborate or single dust coat descrip-
tom In a little shop newly opened and max
ing q speciality Of the chic jumper models
is one Of the most fetching little costumes
we have seen-a natural .)ne Shantung on
princess line embroidered in self tones
at the bottom and around the low cut neck
and very short open sleeves.
The neck, az we have said, is cut very
low and broad 10 show a sort OF waistcoat
Of fine white French pique trimmed in
bands Of dull porcelain blue linen and
little blue linen covered buttons There
are short rather close elbow sleeves match
ing the waistcoat, and there are big buttons
covered with blue linen on the draped
girdle Of the robe.
Guimre and little undersleeves Of three
quarter length arc OF fine net. With this
goes a long loose graceful dust coat Of
the same pongee, with a blue linen collar
and big blue linen buttons.
Apropos Of guimpes and undersleeves,
some Of the i'm orted princess frocks
have these accessories made Of what seeus
TO be a white silk or mercerized mousseline
o~rossbarred or finely checked by a hair
linz raised cord. The effect is excellent.
and only a little valenciennes or other
lace need be used to finish the neck and
sleeves.
Jumper models Of seftest chiffon tafSta
in the best and most lusttdhs QuaHy,
trimmed entirely in self-color embroidery
Of soutache braid or fine cord. are turned
out by the Partisan makers. and though
somewhat expensive are eminently prao-
teal and serviceable, The embroidery
usually borders the neck and sleeves, forms
a girdle and may or may not run down
the entire length Of princess front panel.
In Copenhagen blue, beaver or wood
brown navy blue, tlack or any one Of the
soft greens or reds such a frock is admir-
able, and a coa TO match braided as is the
frock makes Of the costume an envlable
summer possession.
OF coat and skirt tailor costumes we
have said much before now and the early
prophecies are beng fulfilled. An I'M
usual number Of jaunty short coats are In
evidence, though the bolero appears at
last to have faded from the horizon and is
shown only in rare instances.
The coa and skirt models sketched for
this page will give an idea Of some Of the
attractive models. The two costumes in
natural tone pongee we're particularly chic
and practical. combining tailored severity
with piquant details,
A duh pink pongee-one Of the many
beautiful deep pinks which are popular as
relieving colors at present-was used for
the collar and sleeve finish Of one Of the
coats, and other models Of the same type
show collars and Guns Of pongee in dull
Persian colorings and design with a border
Of plain duh pink or blue or black.
These Persian PRINTING! on pongee are
among the beautiful novelties, coming
usually in the form Of borders for plain