New-York tribune., 1908-12-26
DRESSM4KING LESSONS.
Il Little Book Of Practical Sugges-
tions Simply Told.

Domestic failures is what girls cannot
are called by Mime. J. Highet L6fvslt in her little
book Simple Lessons in Dressnaking' (The Wal
ter Scott Publishing Company. London and New
York;. That girl need be failure this book Is
written by Nine. Lofvalt who is teacher Of dress
making English schools. AS the subtitle states
the book tells how to cut fit and finish dress.
All the mysteries Of making skirts hang properly
getting sleeves In right of pressing clothes, OF max
ing all kinds OF effective trimmings are elucidateo
In plain straightforward language.
One of the points which most amateur dress
makers is the lining at the bottom OF the
skirt Here is the right way to put 1t In:
ION account put pleats in the lining lat the
bottom edge of skirt, The best plan is to cut the
lining to fit the edge when you are cutting out the
skirt itself; you will be able to cut 1t the
exact shape. This being done. stitch and press
open each and turn one-half an inch down al
the top edge Of the lining with a neat tackins ono
inch in length. and press it on tho wrong side
Then place the right side Of the skirt against the
right side of the lining and allow the lining 10 go
a little beyond the edge Of the skirt and with the
skirt upperrnost tho lining and material 10
gether about half inch from the edge either by
hand or sewing machine. When you have done this
turn the lining over on to the inside OF the skirt
and tack It neatly round the edge to keep 1t IN
place. Then pin and hem down the top edge OF the
lining. This is the simplest way to line up the
edge OF a dress skirt"
Here Is good advice for stout women ana
for those below the medium height:
For stout figures, arrange the trimming on the
gown from shoulder to waist. and trim the sleeves
I'D from the wrist, from the top OF the sleeve
doyn according 10 fashion. Or they can be worn
without trimming: in this case the sleeve must De
a very good shape and perfect fit Short women
should wear deep iounces or too many small
All their dress trimmings, TO look we'll 1Ius1
be put on the gown lengthways. and the bodice
trimmed correspond with the skirt Medium
sized women, IL too stout or too slender. can
wear almost any style of dress. At the same time
they must be careful to avoid any fashion that will
cause them to appear either too stout or too short;
and Il is we'll to understand that quite light
and dark shades Of material without set pattern
when made up into dresses for short people, ap-
pear TO add to the length Of the person. while
any gay light colors make the figure look Just the
reverse; indeed. they too often make woman
look both short and stout, and this also applies
to broad dress Trimmings
To keep ones garments well pressed is hah ths
secret OF good dressing. A newly made garment
too. can be spoiled by careless pressing.
Every attention. says the author, should be
given to the pressing of seams IN bodice, sleeves
and skirt. They often need to be pressed over
two three times In order to do the pressing in
a businesslike way good padded pressing board
is necessary and will be found most useful in the
household where there is a family going out TO
business daily and who will often need their cloth
ing repaired and pressed The pressing board Is
quite easy to make First secure an old table top
or q large piece Of board COR keep special table
for pressng), and firmly tack over it, using strong
linen thread old, well washed blanket, two or
more folds In thickness. and over this well
washed piece of white sheet OF the blanket make
goods. and keep laid away for use when wanted
a large square OF white washed twilled calico. This
is TO used when pressing any class OF light coll
ored goods and for white other light woOllens
keep a piece Of thin white woollen material, or
use when pressing a piece Of the same stuff from
which the garment Is made. And that you do
not slide the the seams you would do
in ironing laundry things. Put the iron down
the part be pressed and take 1t up again. Con
tinue to do this along the whole length OF the
seam TIL It is finished. This mode OF pressing ap-
plies TO all work connected with dressmaking.