The San Francisco call., 1908-11-01

jcourse: the center of the dress making
world: Women come to Paris from all
/ corners of the earth to be properly and
fashiopably clothed by the great dress
makers of the Rue de la Paix and the
Place Vendome, and an amount OF
skill study, originality and patience is
devoted TO conceiving and executing
the creation of these masters of their
art that the outside world would
scarcely credit.
There are some hundreds of good
dress makers in Paris, but of these only
about a dozen stand for that perfection
which has given Paris its reputation
and but three or four of these really
set the fashion.
The prices charged by these artists
place their costumes beyond the pos
sibility of their being 'commoniZed' >
If the models now proposed triumph
Womankind will be wound up in the
soft, supple stuffs and fragile embroid-
cries that are now being shown for the
coming season Velvetine, satin cloth
cashmere and velvets of the softest
kinds imaginable are to be worn foI
afternoons, the draperies being held in
place by a single buckle or button. Most
exquisite are the colors-peacock blue
citron, coral, violet gray, apple green
terra Gotta and black pearl. Furs are
made UP soft and light as possible
and the muffs are perfectly adorable
| fiat long. big as medium sized pillow
but going well with the big hats.
POLoNAIsEs TO BE POPULAR
Polonaises are surely coming in. as
predicted some time since The large
cloth covered buttons We're just. lit
tie bit in advance of the season.
Many beautiful gowns for evening
wear are made of cloth of gold, veiled
with a contrasting color of chiffon
used as q, 1rapery. One that particular
~ attracted my attention was of this
material the drapery being. of black
chiffon, elaborately embroidered in gold
all around the bottom. The corsage
was carried out on the same lines OF
color. but seemed a solid mass of en-
broidery. A long, black liberty scarf
formed a sort of fichu, the ends cross
ing behind and falling from the waist
to the hem of the skirt.
Net blouses continue to be very fash
ionabIe. all sorts of net, plain and dot
ted, being used. Large pleats, sep
arated by smaller ones, show pretty
change in the making. Even children
and young girls wear these net blOuses
with their wooden and silken frocks.
/ saw a lovely frock for a young girl
the other day, made of brown velvet,
the dress part being made empire over
and waist. A three quarter length
coat Of the velvet was cut to cross
slightly on one side, and was fastened
with three large, very beautiful enamel
buttons. a large brown hat was faced
with yellowish pink satin. and a ruche
Of the same trimmed outside.
IMPORTANCE OF THE HAT
The hat is such an important fea-
ture Of woman's dress that it can cas-
lily make a. toilette really elegant (even
if the gown be of the simplest), pro-
vided the hat be correct. Women who
dress carefully have learned to OBJ
serve and study their profile, and also
the back view, even more than the
front, when trying on hat. for often
one too far down on one side or droop-
ing at the back may prove a deformity
instead Of an ornament.
Perfumed soles, to slip into ones
satin slippers. or dress shoes when not
in use. is the latest wrinkle of ele-
gance for those women who like to dis
seminate a faint perfume, either violets
or roses being the more elegant" Soft
leather soles form the foundation,
which is covered with wadding. in
which the sachet is sewn before they
are covered with silk ribbon.
Perfumed bags Of satin, silk or gay
co1ored- cretonne ornamented with
bows Of ribbon, are also shown. in
which to slip the corsets when not in
use.
. In the shops where novelties in fancy
work are shown one sees the long silk
knitted purses, with rings to separate
the gold and silver coins, that were
so fashionable in the COS. Much bead
work is introduced in these, especially
steel beads Beaded bags are most
popular, and this work has been
even. used by a well known tailor for
collars and cuffs.
Gloves, with tiny pockets in the palm,
which fasten with a clasp, are much
worn by women who do not wish to be
bothered with bag. The pocket holds
a tiny handkerchief and some small
change