The San Francisco call., 1908-03-08

kF78zEEE1 ing the bright weaves Of the beau
ES32N3E9F tiful when all else IN nature is
kfSISSEIIEE awakening from its period Of leth
argy and longing TO burst forth in some
thing fresh and
Woman VIII have this privilege in large measure
the coming spring. the materials and fashions Of
present time in loveness those Of
former seasons in every way and varied are they
Il difacult to be suited with something
Indeed difficulty would TO be in the selection
OF style follow. for spring suit for instance
which One Of the cloths for suits which
be great the order of covert CLOTH
comes plain coors and in indstinct plaids
and stripes. Then there all the usual
materials. which chev'ots. serges
chiffon broadclohs, and for more ordinary wear the
panama cloths
Short skirts stln obtain in favor, good many
wearing them even receptions This last would
q sensible idea, for how difficult in crowded
q place most receptions are, II Is to move ABOUT
when with train Another thing the beauty
OF long gown lost in such gathering as 1t must
be held up nearly every moment spelling the
otherwise most graceful lines Brown fair
favorite this spring and for some colorings-
notably the svonen with beautiful and the
complexion that S almost invariable accompaniment
will be z happy choice.
Plated skirts are SIN be and If well cat
made and hang are the prettcst and becoming
style for a short srted The best style Is where
the plaits &c back and in using pattern
Of thcs skirts 1t must be most carefully meas
ure6 through boti hips ard waist II the Skirt meas
ures when finished. the exact hip around the
hips 4 wiz altogether tight II should have al
lowed across the back at three inches
than the hip measure These extra inches distri5-
ued among perhaps three five plaits and allow snf
fcient ease and still 90 make the skirt look too
full Everything is close and smooth locking around
the hips. but where skirt is too tight there can e
nothing uger. The plats always basted from the
top the and these hastings must be left in
until almost the last thing.
IN measuring length, the skirt should be laid
table folded together there is fold down the
middle OF both front Then it is pinned to-
Eether at top and bottom being careful to keep
corresponding points together, and also to that the
skirt smooth underneath. Pins are put in to mark
lengths in the front over the hips, and In
the back Then with chalk draw line connecting these
points line is curved and must not be noticeable
ct point If the line connecting these length points
ls e good one, and the length measures have been
correctly taken the skirt viii hang perfectly And 1t is
well worth while practice doing this Of the work
!n this way practice will make 1t possible
TO accurately and easilyand think of the weary
Of standing while some one gets the length while
you have the skirt oni
II the skirt is perfectly even lower edge
take Il Of press edge before doing anything
else then the pins can be removed the hastings taken
Of the plaits the bottom, and the hem laid with
nttle trouble. One little word of warning may not
aniss here. Before putting on skirt to see If
the length IS correct have the waist band baseo on
perfectly the skirt is put to 1T that
Il fastened together the waist exactly should
be More trouble IS caused by careessness these
apparently things perhaps realizes. and
the dressmaker learns to take suf
pains tine do each part Of the work per-
fectly win she reach the point where her
work s satisfaction end pleasure to her.
The little coat shown with this plated skirt
ssunty and especially difficult to make If one has
successfully made There is vest, which
s important Of the jackets. and this
may Of contrasting material Of the suit
material heavily braided. The front of the jacket
should be lined with canvas and from the shoulder
down three inches under the and extend
ing the middle OF the front, the should be
Of thicknesses keep the coat from breaking"
This canvas should be well with stitching IN
the padding" give it frmness- The coat
should be entirely put together vest put in
- h-T lafO he I'm is mi Ia
good the trimming is that II is put on in
design idea being carried out in the back
wei The sleeves three-ouarter length
the hole IS larger. going down under the
V, which is excellent for waists which may
be worn underneath
Another one Of the new spring styles shown quite
different effect from the first but equally good
looking This would be particularly good looking made
OF brown broadcloth with and cuffs Of light
tan and trimmed in black braid. desired gilt
buttons could used also good advantage This
s-t has two box pa,ts In the middle Of both front and
back Of the skirt is gored that 1t
GE ripping around the feet broad bias bands dec
crate the skirt each side each being finished
at top with Of braid The is half fit
ting-aardly that-for while It in well under
the arms It is decidedly loose In the front A
going full length and front and starting
the middle Of the shoulder lends shapeliness to this
saunty jacket easily be seen, the sleeves
body are In one. the sleeves finished in
eighths length and a novel garniture is employed
the sleeve IN the shape Of going the full
length q Of the shoulder searn)
curving IN ecallops each decorated by
button
The third suit shown would be wonderfully attrac-
tive worn by although perhaps little
ordinary be the choice OF those who have
limited wardrobe This would not be difhcult for
home sewer make The skirt pattern is circular
perfectly smooth and close fitting waist and
hips bat ripping gracefully around the bottom
When plait for the middle OF the front is
cut. enough extra length must be allowed to extend
as far up the waist the depth of the opening
the skirt then be put together, the ~
opening being made under the box plat the left E
front and the band and skirt meeting under -
the box plat The three inch wide bias folds
are put on bottom cf the skirt has
Finished and their edges stitched IN with the
which Join the box plait and circular sdes-tfe
seams, having been only basted from the top
OF the hem up.
The waist par; IS about as simple Of devel-