The Washington herald., 1908-04-05
COOKS LIVE IN PARIS
Real Sights to Be Seen in the
French R-4xeOrantg.
ONE CHEF a DUCK EXPERT
For Forty Cents one May Get
BouiIIe a Baisse of ThaekeFay.
Lobster a la Foyot Something 10
Make the Gormet's Mouth Wafer.
NO Music. bat Dishes of the Best.

TN Paris" said a portly American re-
Gently returned from the French capital,
'youn want to see the great works OF
art, but don't overlook the works OF
art turned out By the greatest cook in
the world
When old Frederic shufles of tho
scene the Parisians ought TO build a
statue OF him. Why that Canton la
Tour dArgent at bis little place on ths
oaul Tournelle is worth the trip over
alone.
frederic cooks and earves every duck
himself He cooks it in a chadng dish,
and while he stirs the walters cluster
around In attention, the diners watch
with hungry eyes and there is no sound
except the splutter Of the spirit fame.
After being carved. the carcass OF the
duck is put back into a duck crusher, and
from the red juice he concocts his famous
sauce. oh. yum, yum, that duck and
that sauce!
Lobster a la Foyot. at Foyots. Will
run Frederie's duck a close second.
Foyots is not a gay restaurant where
you see lots Of life. II is close by the
new embassy where the French senate
meets, and is a great resort for the poll
ticians and senators. Almost every man
you see there has that ribbon Of the Le-
gion Of Honor.
No Music Here.
There is no music. and every enc sits
on soft-cushioned seats around the walls
The atmosphere Of the place is very quiet
and dignihed, and every one pays serious
attention TO the business on hand-eating.
The cuisine IS wonderful and IS famous
all over Europe, says the New York
Sun. That lobster. Wow. How I goTged.
After the flet of sole au petit due, you
will want to compare It with ,he filet Of
sole a la Marquery. Baedeker, the in
fallible, dismisses MarGuery's, on the
Boulevard Bonne Nouyelle. with the scaHt
notice Of PatrOnized largely by meT-
chants Well. If so, I approve the Paris
ian merchants taste.
lie DOyen's has a great clientele OF
South Americans. It's q private resort OF
those South American statesmen who go
10 Paris and live happy ever after upon
the supply Of loose change pTied from
their cOuntrys treasury. It isn't as gay
as ArmenonviIle, but has a distinct al
mosphere OF its own. I gormandized
there-I openly glory in it. The arti-
chokes and the peche fambee cooked in
kirschwasser for dessert
"Of course. there are dozens OF IA
nous chefs in Paris. After you've been
at one Of the ultra-fashionable restsu-
rants they are alI alike-more attention
paid TO the gowns, music, and wine than
the menu. And ] loved to dine for 90
At m 70 RI
st. German. where Thackeray used 10
go. and order the bouille baisse that
he wrote about so lovingly. And for
dessert you had little Wild strawberries
with a thick layer Of soft cream cheese
over them Good? Try it once.
IF you go TO Fontainebleau be sure 10
dine at the little Cafe Moret and ask for
ecrevisses a Ia Bordelaise. You dine IN
garden surrounded by long tables filled
with the family parties Youn see a
couple Of soldier sons with enormous
baggy red trousers of on leave for the
day grees the father with q solemn kiss
on each cheek.
Capacity Was Unlimited.
Il could have gone on indefinitely
cracking those miniature Holsters. You
know how you can eat popcorn? Ny ca
pacity was as unlimited about the
.ecrevisses. I like to think Of that even
ing, of the stars and the cooI garden. and
the scurrying mattresses and the red
faced, jovial family parties roaring over
their family jokes. and the friendly
smiles and glances they gave you. and
how they'd laugh when some one sucked
the sauce from the fingers awkwardiy or
nOisily. You realized that we're all one
big family after all
But don't be ike one American from
the West I met who clapped me on the
back and said:
Say. I amt had a good American meal
since I left home. I eat what they give
me, but III, I don't know what I've
eat after I've eat it,
''Of course, l walked miles through art
galleries. saw at least a million churches
and ruins and monuments, and al that
sort Of thing, but one old French friend
Of mine was about right when he said.
Ny friend, 7 am an old man. and I
know most OF the pleasures Of life. Be
lieve me when I tell you that the delight
one takes IN paintings, in sculpture. IN
the drama, books. and any delight of In
telIect Is not 10 be compared to the de-
light Of eating ecTeyisses a Ia BOrdelaise
opposite a pretty woman at dinner and
watching her sip the sauce from her
fingers. So, So"