davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-05-03
Pointed Yokc for Linen Blouse.

A lovely decoration for simple linen blouse Is to
make shallow. pointed front yoke. the fullness
the yoke tucked short distance down and have
scattered the entire waist small embroidered
iacing rings. either the same color the waist
have one ring some contrasting color.
Another method of trimming the waist is put
narrow bands of contrasting color One hand
model is of white linen with the middle front
having delicate pattern embroidered in blue; then
there is panel effect of the white material
tucked across in pin tucks; this panel is covered by
narrow bias bands of the blue linen The sleeves
the idea carried in them, shoulders
sort of epauettes of the white linen embroidered
in blue to match the front and outlined by blue
bands.
Many of the net waists effectively trimmed
with brading done in soutache braid; others are en-
broidered This last doubtless sounds dhicult but is
not necessarily So and the effect is bewtchingly pretty
Il
White Sill Popin for Business Woman
To the business woman separate waists have become
necessity they also woman OF leisure
for morning Because its widespread popular
ity almost every sort of material is making
recent fabric added to the list white silk poplin
which properly belongs to the class waists
long popular for intermediate season use
models among white and light coored poplins and taf
fetas are made similar lines. They both
pin and wide tucked but instead of the former hand
embroidered and lace application ornamentaton
trimmed deliberately with passementerie soutache OF
self color, with perhaps yoke or chemsette
allover lace. They elbow puffe1
supplemented by lace cuff the newer three-auar
ter mousquetaire with the Japanese size and cape
often heightened by means of silk fringe.
colored guimpes in all the light shades
some or the novelties seen In separate waists TO
coat and skirt costumes of the sei-taiored
sort in such light weight fabrics voiles popns.
veilings and the rough silks. The latter
be popular during the In every instance the
dyed guipure should match the costume of which 1t
really Is the third piece, and is mounted self
lining taffeta girdIe. cuffs
and collar of the silk.
Polka dotted and striped lawns sheer dinnities
batistes ideal fabrics for morning They
made with pin tucked yokes and edged jabots
with wide plats and embroidered button bands In
plain fashion but always with long and
high collar Other blouses. trhe severe
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-05-03
Sheercst Lopns and Organizes.

The trehs Of fashion today is towards the pictur
and the trailing with their fanciful trim
mings and elaborate waist parts beautiful when
right times but there many occasions when
the more practical waist and skirt costumes TIE
only. thing Separate waists will by many
almost every occasion except when full dress
* required evening function the like. The
shecres batistes lawns, organdies linens fine pques
pongees. veJiags, netsespecally the hlet-crspe de
chine silks satins. laces ulles. mousseine de soies
and chTous favor5te materials.
The looking waists undoubtedly those made
up simple and heavily trimmed While
many the waists blouses have the Japanese
hole. there others seen with small arnhoe and
plain shool6er many instances the sleeve trimming
extending the top Of the sleeve in unbroken
line to the lower ledge the collar This IL rnther
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-05-03

Before backs are cut hens should be laid
each back and IL have been allowed the
patterns the OF the back of the pattern
put in the middle OF the width of the hem. Three
quarters of inch is good width to make the hens.
and account should they be inch wide.
All lines. we'll those marking the armholes
and neck line, should be clearly marked.
known Mt well, the shoulder should be
and stitched. then should be made down the
front indicating the exact middle, and, placing the
broidery pattern It. he transferred easily,
doing both front and back at the time the
shoulder lines clearly marked. also the lines
around armholes and neck which show where the
sleeves and collar to be sewed to the waist; then
always holding the front of the waist towards YOU pin
the front the back. first end, then other
putting these pins In that the neck lines
der lines exactly meet and at the other end that
armhole and shoulder lines exactly
Now. If the pattern has been correctly drafted 1t
VIII be found that the front shoulder is about a
half inch shorter than the back. and If couple of
fingers held the under Of waist seam
1t is held each end simple turn of the wrist
will stretch the front TO the length OF the
which the is basted and stitched This
accomplish and the result will be satisfactory
In front Of the shoulder there is less Of a
hollow, and in the back Ii rounds less so il
the front the shoulder Is little shorter
the back and the front stretched to be the length
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-05-03
usiness Woman and Woman of leisure.

edged bands extending from shoulder belt or broad
button bands embroidered in wolfe. black. brown.
blue. and three-quarter sleeves OF the puffy
type with attached turned broad cuffs OF
embroidery.
to correspond to the suit in tie
broidered band down the front a eolored plaid
stripe
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-05-03

Greek key design doEe in the narrowest soutache
braid If this is done by hand it will be best to haste
the material piece of rather stiff paper and sew
right through paper and all. After the braidng is
finished the paper be pulled away If this precau
ton cloth will inclined pucker
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-05-03

the back the when held in place by both neck
band collar will well, and will
fall in wrinkle
Another necessary point is the size of
the neck The pattern should be measured the neck
line and alteration should made the shoulder
seams. They should be let taken the case
requires and the alteration should be equally dstrb-
ued the front and back If the neck line is right
the size of the waist neck always should be
lated at the neck end Of the shoulder seams.
Perhaps in the Pattern which has been selected
there lines which where insertion is to
be used. This should good quality. the Ger
vaenciennes is the favorte; this has the double
thread where the French has only the single and
that reason the German better Where the lace
around curved lines a thread be pulled in
the edge so 1t will follow any given line easily After
this has been basted down 1t should be hemmed tc the
waist material on both sides by hand then the material
is cut under the insertion, leaving oneeshth of
inch margin both sides. and this margin should
be rolled back and hemmed Lace put this way IL
the work is well done, will stay indefinitely and looks
beautifully on both the right and sides.
Girl NTH Long Mech Rejoiccs
Collars are. higher than they have been in years,
particularly at the sides and back and the girl with
the long, slender rejoice In these lingerie
blouses it has been somewhat dicuit to collars
stand up as they should the bone In the back not af
fecting the front at successful method has been
seen recently The featherbone pu: In the back
usual one bone is put each side. dagonay. starting
towards the back at the top and piece Of bone
the front, so 1t takes of inverted U with
square corners. The about nine inches
long; the ends should off and the silk turned
over, so as to prevent scratching Then the bone is
1oioed over to make right angle corner about two
inches from one end, and the thing is done
inches from the opposite end This is then sewed to
the wrong side of the collar. allowing the ends to
come at the bottom This leaves the piece at the
top and 1t keeps the collar up beautifully in the front
All the seams in these sheer bouses should be put
together with the beading that comesat Is
not over one-sxteenth of inch In width. 1t is not
unusual now to see waists fastened In the
shown in the illustration is OF pale blue nen light
weight with shoulder tucks and between these and the
middle OF the front are two Of fancy CROSS
n ~ioI. 80 o~H A>&wx~
these is of French knots done In white narrow
knife plated fril Is attached makes
the daintiest kind of finish.
One example OF the waist showing the sleeve trim
ming extending to the given This also the
large arnhoe.
thoroughly good style net waist, suitable for wear
with dressy suit Is shown II Il ia made especially
Tor suit waist 1t should the strapping made Of
the suit material Outlining email square yoke II
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-05-03

ard hung short skirt with lingerie blouse
other style Of separate waist decidedly thing,
while hundreds and thousands of other always
piah 70 have anywhere from four dozen always
ready
During the earliest spring light weight hannels and
silks Of all kinds popular for these waists.
but as the warmer weather approaches the
materials IN vogue. Wolfe excellent
FOR separate skirt and be short and plated
and trimmed with the wide folds Of the material
1t should 1T faultlessly kept well sponged and
pressed. Waists the present greater
importance, and variety Of materials used
endless.
One old feature Of some years which is brought
IN again this IS finishing the with
and wearing detachable collars. often happens
the dainty, rather per:shabIe lingerie
neck band, or rather collar. needs washing while
pressing is all that the requires hence
the separate collar will be a boon.
Unless woman has laundress whom she knows
Will laundering dainty gar
nents the time viii be well spent
self Rubbing a board should be unnecessary. Rub
al soied places well with pure. good soap and
allow the waist 10 soak for In cold or
ukewerm water. II thus be washed easily and IL
some put rinsing water no starching
will be Starch unless used with
erection. IS OF these sheer materials
sheer waist IS ruined IL starched noceably
A safe plan follow is have the goods show the
amount Of dressing the material nearly
possible
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1908-05-03

SPITE Of the fact that the knell has
repeatedly been sounded announcing that
the separate waists are doomed to obliv-
ion. each season sees them bobbing up
serenely. There are many times when
nothing else adequately fills their place.
Even society women have their so-called
practical moments when a perfectIy made
The mirror. (Stillwater, Minn.) 1894-1925, 1908-05-14

and convince the others that he was
doing them a favor, turned out to be
the best man of the lot. He is in busi-
ness and very prosperous. Some day,
somewhere, hope to slap Johnny on
the back and give him the handshake
of his life. We will visit the old town
and the scenes of our boyhOOd; the old
schoolhouse, with its sad recOllections
of the departed days; the familiar
places we knew so well, and that hOl-
low oak stump in which we placed
our school books while playing truant.
Then we will step into Johnny's auto
mobile and steer straight for that little
farmhouse in the country, to that hon.
est and god-fearing man who treated
us so handsomely in the good old days
when watermelons we're in their prime.
er0l 4o 80 aa x. /.
The mirror. (Stillwater, Minn.) 1894-1925, 1908-05-14

The prison reformer met the con-
victed lawyer in the striped garb.
"And Whist brought you here, un-
happy manp" she asked him.
His old time clsverness asserted Il
self. AZ 'sss 49,
.An automobile" be blithly replied.
'--Etchange.
The mirror. (Stillwater, Minn.) 1894-1925, 1908-05-14
My First Experience
in Aerial Nav
igation.

Paper Read Before the ChdttduQsla Ctrcte.
The celebration of Independence
Day July 4, 1893, in small city of
New York, is indelibly impressed on
my memory. 1t was the occasion of
my first venture in balloon ascension
the character Of which was so start
ling and vivid that have often won
dered at my good luck in reaching
terra firma with no broken bones and
only the memory of the panic to dis
turb my conscience.
The main feature and attraction of
the 4th Of July celebration in this
town was q balloon ascension and
parachute drop by q noted aeronaut.
To me it was attractive. for the oppor-
tunity offered to observe the process
of making ready one of these monster
balloons. l had seen many ascensions
but had never before had the good
fortune to bs near the place of opera
tion.
At nine o'clock on the morning of
the glorious Fourth All elderly gentle.
man arrived in the city with COM
plete balloon outfit and Immediately
proceeding to the State Fair grounds,
began to arrange Initiating the balloon;
seeing he was alone and having de-
sire to become acquainted with the
technical details of balloons, asked
him if he would allow me to assist
him. The Professor, as I shall call
him, graciously and cordially not only
tgranted the necessary permission but
seemed to take pleasure in explaining
the modus operandi. A trench was
excavated twenty feet long. three feet
deep, and two feet wide, with q short
IL" at the firing end to stand in while
Initiating the balloon. Iron bars eight
cen inches apart were laid across the
trench covered with sheet tin over
which thick layer Of earth was spread
At the end opposite the "L" was
placed stake. three feet high, two
thirty-feet poles were then planted
twenty feet each side of the stake, on
top of the poles was q pulley thru
which rope was rove making ridge
line to stretch the balloon over. The
bottom opening for the passage of the
hot air was twelve feet aud the bal
loon when inflated was ninety feet
high. While bpsily engaged in pre-
pairing and guiding the fire under ths
balloon / asked the Professor if ht
was to make the ascension. He sale
no, that his representative would b.
. in town on the two O'Clock train.
At the time Of this ascension th'
! method ia vogue for imitation required
from three to four hours. Now, will
! improvements, the time required i
) from fifteen to twenty minutes. WheI
: the hot air began to fill the balloon
: the Professor told me to get thirt.
] men to hold it and prevent 1t from
: blowing over, the men standing abou
sftwo feet apart aud holding up tn
! sides Of the balloon. One man wa
{ detailed to stand By with . bucket 0
{ water. He was called the "Sparker,
! a. it was his duty to watch for an
> extfnguish any sparks that threatene
. | to set fire to the balloon. -
Dakota farmers' leader. (Canton, S.D.) 1890-19??, 1908-05-22
$40 Pants Free.

Tom SeXe, Canton's popular tailor,
has a composite picture of President
Roosevelt which gives 400 different
views OF our great champion of hui
man liberty, and in that picture only
one photograph has been copied twice,
or in other words, there two pictures
of the President exactly alike and the
man who orders a handsome S35 tailor
made suit of clothes can get ten dol
lar pair Of dress pants free if he can
find the two pictures Of the President
that are duplicates. The photo is
large and you can see Roosevelt's
brave, fearless face distinctly in every
pose. Call at Sexes and get a SO
pair of pants free. The study Of the
Presidents face in so many attitudes
is worth seeing.
Dakota farmers' leader. (Canton, S.D.) 1890-19??, 1908-05-22
..why I Long for Death"

Paris Letter to the London Daily
Mail: Count Tolstoi, the famous
Russian author, replying to a friend
who congratulated him recently on
the approach Of his SOth birthday and
the celebrations planned for it., said:
1T is another happiness that L
await-death." Today the Matin
publishes a letter from the veteran
writer In which he ampliies that say
ing and adds that all earthly life Is a
dream and death the true awakening.
GAIL our life, from birth to DEATH"
he writes, ''is it not, with all It's
dreams, itself a dream? Does not our
our belief in it's reality spring solely
and entirely from our ignorance OF
any other life more real? Our earth
ly life is oneof the dreams Of another
and more real life, and that other
life is a dream Of yet another life and
so on ad infinitum, even to the last
life, the life of God.
"Death in youth is as when a man
Is awakened before he has spelt full
measure. Death in old age Is as
when a man awakes of his W &C
cord after good sleep. Suicide is as a
nightmare which a man banishes by
remembering that he is asleep; he
makes an effort. and he awakes.
deep sleep, without dreams, is
comparable to semibestiality. 1t Is
the sleeper conscious of what goes on
around him, and ready to awake at
any moment, who has knowledge,
though but vague, of the life whence
he came and whittier he shall return.
"Even in this present dream-life
we feel that which the new life will
perhaps make real to us. The earth
" form in which the awakening OF
our knowledge Of the true life finds
us appears as admiration to the free
development of our spirit. The true
life begins when that limitation is re-
moved. This idea embodies all the
knowledge of the truth which gives
to man the consciousness of eternal
life.
II believe with all my soul In what
/ say. I feel / know with certainty
that in dying I shall be happy, that l
shall enter a world more real
Dakota farmers' leader. (Canton, S.D.) 1890-19??, 1908-05-22
r.. ?. May s. L. p. May 2
of Real Estate Should Not be Made.

state G9tteo0 OF south on Dakota SIS nCounty Court
In the matter of the Estate of William
SchOen, deceased.
John Miner. the administrator of the estate
of William Schoen. deceased. having on TINS
sented to the judge Of the county court a pc
tition. in due form and verified by his oath.
setting forth amongst other things. the
amount OF personal property that has come
into his hands and how much thereof remains
undisposed OF; the debts outstanding against
said deceased: the debts. expenses, and
charges of administration: a general descrip-
ton of all real property of which dGcedcnt
died seized. and the condition, and value
thereof. and the names of all the heirs at law
and next OF kin OF said decedeIt: and all other
matters required by Section POP of the Probate
Code of the Revised Codes Of 1908. and stating
that a sale of some of the real property be
longing to said estate is necessary to pay the
debts outstanding against said dcceased: the
debts. expenses, and charges of admlniStra-
ton; the interest on the mortgage debt: taxes.
etc. and that the PERSONAL estate is wholly
insu tficient to do 50; and praying for ar order
or sale or real estate: ana it ,duly ana SatlH-
factOrily appearing to the judge OF this court
from said petition that it is necessary to sell
the whole or some portion of the real estate
20 pay the debts outstanding against said de-
cedcnt: the debts. expenses. and charges of
administration: the interest on the mortgage
debt. taxes. etc. at private sale. said admin
istrator Judging that method most beneficial
to said estate;
1t is therefore ordercd: That all persons in
tcrested in the estate OF said deceased appear
before said cOurttn Monday. the S1h day OF
June. ~. ID. 1905. at = O'clOck. in the afternoon
of said day. at the court room OF Salu county
court. at the court house in the CITY of Can
ton. County of Lincoln. in said state, then
and there to show cause why an order should
not he granted to the said administration of
said estate to sell SO much of the rcal estate
of said deceased as shall be necessary. at
private sale. according to the prayer Of said
petition.
And it. is further ordered: That a copy of
this order be served on all persons interested
in said estate, AT least ten days before the
time appointed for hearing the said petition.
Dated this 4th day of May. A.. d. 1905.
by The Court.
Attest: ASA FORREST, Jr.
GEO. OLSON, Judge.
Clerk.
BROWN & BROWN.
AtrprnpvSfpr administrator
Dakota farmers' leader. (Canton, S.D.) 1890-19??, 1908-05-22
In the District Court of the United States
for the District of South Dakota,
Southern Division,

Frank S. Hamilton
To the Creditors of Frank s.. Hamilton OF
Hudson, County of Lincoln, and State OF South
Dakota, Bankrupt.
You are hereby notified that on the 18th day of
May, A. D., 1908, the said Frank S. Hamilton was
duly adiudicated bankrupt. and that the first
meeting of his creditors will be held at the office
OF Henry A. Muller. referee in bankruptcy, at
rooms one and two. Gilbert Block in the City of
Sioux Falls, South Dakota. and on the 18th
day of May, A. D.. 1908, at the hour of 10 O'Clock
in the forenoon, at which time the said cred
itors may attend, prove their claims, appoint a
trustee. examine the bankrupt and transact
such other business as may law fully come be-
fore said meeting.
Dated at Sioux Falls this 5th day of May,
A. D., 1908.
HENRY A. MULLER
Referee in Bankruptcy
A. b.. Carlson,
A. r. Jameson. Attorneys for Petitioner
Dakota farmers' leader. (Canton, S.D.) 1890-19??, 1908-05-22
f. p. May LIP June 10
NOTICE OF MORTGAGE FORECLOS-
URE SALE,

Whereas default has hecn made in the con
ditions of a certain mortgage dated May eth,
1903. made. executed and delivered by Melinda
i}rcnnnr and her husband II. w. Rrenner OF
Lincoln County. South Dakota. to Nellie E.
Murray of Canton. p. O.. Lincoln county
South Dakota. which said mortgage was duly
recorded in the Office of the Register of Deeds
Of said Lincoln County. on the Eth day of
May, A. d.. 1903. in Book "A of Mortgages at
page 1893 thereof. and the said Nellie F.. Muir
ray is now the owner and holder of said NOR
tgage together with all amounts due thereon;
that said default consists in the failure and
neglect of the said m~OrtgagOrS to pay the
principal and interest upon the debt secured
by the said mortgage at the time when the
same. by the terms and conditions thereof.
became due or any part thereof except the
interest due May 18th. 1906: and
Whereas, the said mortgage and note col
lateral thereto and of even date Herewith
became due and payable on the 18th day of
May. 1907: and
Whereas. the amount claimed to be due
thereon at this date is the sum Of three hun
dred thirty-nine and 2O-100 dollars G39.20. to-
thirty six 1861 dollars interest and three and
20-100 dollars insurance premium advanced;
besides statutory fees and costs allowed by
law: and
Whereas. no proceedings or action at law or
ortherwise have been instituted to recover
the debt secured by the said mortgage or any
Now, therefore. notice is hereby given that
by virtue of the power Of sale contained in
said mortgage and duly recorded as afore-
said. and in pursuance of the statutes in such
cases made and provided. the said mortgage
will be foreclosed and the real estate therein
described. to-wit: Q
Lot Five 81 and the west thirty-three and
\ $3.50 feet of lot six 90 all of block nine 90
of Fitzgerald and Benedict's Addition TO Can
ton. S. D.. according to the recorded Plat
thereof. all situated in the City of Canton,
Lincoln County. South Dakota! together with
unto belonging or in anywise appertaining.
will be sold at public auction to the highest
bidder for cash to satisfy said debt, interest.
insurance and costs. which said sale will be
made by the sheriff of Lincoln County, South
Dakota. at the front door OF the Court House
in the said City Of Canton. on the twenty
second 22nd) day of June. A. D.. 1908. at two
(2) o'clock p. NJ, of that day. subject to re-
demption as provided by law.
Dated at Canton. South Dakota. May 7th.
1908.
NELLIE E. MURRAY.
Filing Opsal. Sheriff, Mortgagee.
A.. b. CARLSON,
Attorney for Mortgage.