The daily sentinel., 1908-03-05
UP-T0-THE-MINUTE
MODES AND FABRICS
Breezy Fashion The Baby Princess" and Sem
Princess" Jumper Suits Something About New
Colors and Sripes--Long Coat Very Popular.
(By Catherine Mann-payzant.)


New York, March 5.-A new note
in modes has been sounded. and it is
a note that means a complete revela-
tioR In all gowns, except those of the
coat and skirt variety. 1t is seen in
all the new gowns of the first dress
makers and In the suppression of the
separate bodice and skirt, an outcome
of the princess dress.
Now the princess dress Is not be-
coming to all women, but its modi-
fled form. the 'baby-princess'' and
the "semi-princess" may be worn by
many women. Instead of a true
princess they are a skirt and bodice
Joined together under shaped girdle
OF the goods that obviates the dis
tinct waist line and many are made
on princess lining.
In their construction there is not
an inch of extra fulness to spare, the
undergarments, the corset, the skirts
are all intended, to give smooth
graceful length of figure. The large
hips are concealed and the small
waist made fuller to hide the incon-
gruity of size. Long lines are an
essential feature of the dress.
The directoire touch is coming
more and more in line with the EN-
pire and princess modes, soft, sup
pie. pliable. clinging materials on
every hand. and even now the heavier
materials are to be found in the chif-
fon weights which make them more
adaptable to other styles than the
heavy straight skirt and packet. Chit
fon cashmere, chiffon pongee and
chiffon voiles, while some others
have already appeared in the mar
ket, others will soon be under the
chiffon sway.
Stripes are conclusive to long lines
and will be used in these modes ex-
tensively. more so than checks per-
haps, though these also will take
their part In the directoire and semi
princess gown when trimmed with
verticle folds, velvet ribbons. Persian
bands and those of lace, applied in
long lines.
The basket weaves and new ma
terial called wool filet, resembling
the filet lace but with closer mesh,
will be used for gowns of the coming
season Such weayes necessitates a
handsome lining. which brings the
expense to a high figure. The veil
ings already so well known, are more
beautiful and seen in more varieties
than ever.
The jumper dresses are now made
in one with their skirts following the
idea of the semi-princess dress and
indeed Is one with them. When made
in the new bordered goods they are
most serviceable as well as dressy
in appearance. The Japanese armhole
will certainly be one of their features
during the summer months. They are
one of the most practical modes of
home dressmaker's art. They are
also suitable to both the house and
the street. In many cases where the
Japanese armhole Is not becoming a
ladder sleeve is used, formed of tires
of tucks at regular intervals. For the
house voile, chiffon panama, chiffon
taffeta and all the muslins and very
thin goods are used; and for the
street there are the heavy linen, the
serges, the heavy silks, ginghams and
many mercerized goods. with the dff-
ferences of coloring intended for the
house and the street.
In these modes there is the ten
dency to the many gored skirt, which
is close-fitting both in the front and
the sides and with decided flare in
the foot. But after all there is a
lengthening and narrowing of all
skirts.
Among tailored modes mention
should be made of the favor shown
the separate coat. OF course, the
coat and skirt suit of the same ma
terial will be used for certain pur-
poses but a dressy suit can be con-
structed from two materials of the
same color or in two contrasting ma