davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-11-29

which is attached. by sewing or pasting,
the flues Of an ostrich plume. On the
cheaper grades this will come immedi-
ately away, but on the more expensive
feathers they will be quite secure. The
feather when finished is handsome. but
not particularly graceful.
The next kind Of feather to contem-
plate is the paradise plume-that rarely
wonderful substance which may not be
initiated. In it's natural state this
feather forms the tail of the bird OF
paradise. When the bird is happy the
gorgeous plumage spreads like pea
cocks tall. but when the bird is shy the
tail folds inward and droops downward
as 1t is when shown in the shop. The
bird itself is only about six inches long.
although the plume will measure ten OR
twelve inches. So that this gorgeous
plumage may adorn the hat of Inllady,
the little bird must lose Its life and.
therefore many women have refused to
disc plume is from 500 to $35. Birds OF
paradise are found in many South
American countries.
The aigrette is another beautiful orna-
ment that is taboo. 1t Is taken from the
neck of the white heron at the mating
season. and because it is so much
sought after it has practically made the
heron family extinct For this reason
its price rises every day and many man
ufacturers have tried to duplicate it in
other feathers, but it is impossible. The
aigrette pictured is called the cross
aigrette. for 1t is somewhat shorter and
thicker than the heron aigrette.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-11-29

new idea. 1t is OF white beaver, quite
round and fitting we'll down over the
hair. while the trimming consists OF
a large black velvet bow arranged at
the left side. 1t is very becoming and
distinctive.
A very popular model is the fourth hat.
which is OF soft mauve felt trimmed
with two long thin pheasant feathers.
The curves at the sides of this turban
are very beautiful and it could not fail
to suit the wearer
A queer combination of mink fur.
brown velvet and strange gold DINA
ment is the fifth turban. The fur forms
the brim. the velvet the crown. and the
ornament. which is in the shape OF
flower. is arranged on the crown so
that it just shows above the fur.
smart black fur turban Is made
with a crown of white beaver and trim
med with a single white cross al
grette" 1t Is very chic and would be
the finishing touch to p. black broad
cloth costume.
Pretty coloring is shown on the sew
enth model of prune-colored velvet, for
the oddly shaped chou at the side is blue
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-11-29
THE PARIS LETTER

cloth hem will hold the bottom Of tho
skirt away from her feet and allow 1t
TO fall gracefully; yet when she sits
down or when she stands the satin
skirt itself will cling around the body
and the cloth hem will keep it fiat
on the floor. This is very novel idea
and one that has entirely removed all
the objection, which has been made to
the unlined satin gown.
Tailored suits will be worn less and
less, SO the wise ones say, and soon
there will be no bouses at all. Now.
of course. this is merely a prediction,
but at least it is interesting. The only
materials which have found favor in
Paris this season are silk cashmere,
satin and crepe de chine. The predomi-
mating color is green and old tones OF
green. Sleeves. forming mittens on the
hand, are already so popular that they
have become an ordinary feature OK
the present-day dress.
Very wide hats are at the moment
less III favor than they were, and little
by little we seem to be coming to small
hats. ToQues, as l have said before.
are quite the rage just now. but they
are none of them very small. Some are
like great balls. others are like bonnets.
The busby shape has taken a great
hold On the Parisian-in fact. 1t ID the
''dernier cri.'
a great deal of marabout is used. all
though, of course. not the very fine.
real marabout, which is too delicate
a material of which to make hats.
Baroque pearls are often used as TRIM
ming for large hats. and on toques they
are placed all around the crown and on
the edge. Wings are arranged so they
stand straight up. Ostrich plumes ia
white faced with gray, or white faced
with blue. are very much employed as
a trimming for swanscown or black fox
toQues.
At the races the other day one OF tho
manikinS belonging to great cos
TUNE house of paris wore a gown which
consisted OF drapery, which might DO
used as a peplum thrown over on the
shoulder, or else as an overskirt or
tunic 1t was a peculiar feature very
much commented upon. With this she
wore a large black hat trimmed with
huge white aigrette. ELO1SE.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-11-29

PARIS, Nov. 49,
n VERY one admits without the
slightest hesitation that the en-
- pire and directoire have come
into their own and have swept
the world with a great wave of enthu-
slaSm FOR the classic. But already the
dreSsmakers and the artists are begin
ming to discuss what the next style will
be. what materials will be used, what
size hats will be worn, what will be the
position of the trimming 1t seems but
yesterday that the new style was in
augurated, when the sheath skirt was
pushed upon the fashionables in spite
OF their protests, yet even now its sue
cessor is beginning to take a definite
shape in the minds of the leaders of
fashion. But whatever the new style.
IL Is not yet known, though there are
Il few new wrinkles which may be seen
in the very latest costumes.
Gold lace, as have told you before
is very much the rage, and is used
to trim almost every sort of black dress
Now, instead Of being placed on the
gown. as one would naturally expect
lace to be. it is placed under the sheer
dress material. while again under this
will be a lining of pink or white NOUS
seine de sole. Thus the lace Is laid
between the two folds of material. and
is therefore protected from the skin.
which would tarnish il, while its outlines
are shrouded by the outer folds. On
sleeves. too. gold lace Is placed between
the lining of mousseline de sole or chif-
fon and the outer sleeve, and partic-
ularly is this lace effective under black
tulle,
The Parisienne has admitted that it is
impossible to look her very best unless
she discard the old-fashioned petit
coat and adopt the more recent style
the pantalon or silk combination--but it
is easily seen that without some stuff
ing the edge OF the soft satin dress
would sink inward and rather spoil the
line of the figure. To counterfeit this
and to make the dress hang in abso- .
lutely perfect lines a false hem made
of cloth is placed underneath the outer
edge Of the satin skirt. This may be
from fifteen to twenty centimeters wide.
AS the lady walks around the room the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-11-29

velvet. OF course both shades must be
exactly right, but the magic comnina-
ton Is worth searching for. as the re-
suit is wonderfully good.
turban in shades of green Is shown
where the hat itself is of one shade,
while the band around the brim and
the choux in the back are all in a much
darker shade This idea might be car
ried out in any color and the effect
would be equally COCA.
Two wings that stand straight zip in
the middle of the front are usually as
ISOLATED with the military idea. and per-
hapS that Is the reason they always
seem 10 POSSESS so much style. In any
case, such a hat is that where black vel
vet is used to form the foundation. while
the two gray wings are so arranged
that they form sort of grenadier trim
ming in the middle of the front. The
curve of the brim over the forehead and
the draped crown make hat that
would be charming for the youthful
face of a newly fiedged debutante. and
what better selection could she mako
than such a turban to wear with her
tailored directoire?
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-11-29

needed. All the turbans are admirable
for winter weather, and they are all
practical and becoming.
They will be a welcome change. too.
for the woman who cannot wear the ex-
aggerated hat has been having hard
time during the last few months. There
has been no moderate way for her to
dress and yet remain within the letter Of
Dame Fashions law. Now she may
have her turn. while the woman with
the large couture who rejoices in the
hat enormous may still wear her ia
vorite during afternoons and evenings
The first hat to the left is Of gray
beaver in a shade of oriental pearl,
while a huge bow Of emerald green
velvet brightens the Quaker hue with
a large splash Of color over the crown
and above the face in the front.
Another suggestion of color for the
hat is to have the turban of brown.
while the bow would be Of sapphire
blue.
The second turban is of dark green
furry felt with three quilts. two In green
and one in black. These are stuck
through the hat IN the front and they
form the only trimming.
The third turban shows q distinctly
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-11-29

fashions are frivolous these
H days. in corsets as we'll as in
all lingerie. and quite rightly
SO, for nowhere else is fluff
finess so much to be desired as on
the little personal belongings that are
not shown to the world.
If you have been tailor-made and
are of very comfortable proportions,
II may be permitted you to remain
the very pink of neatness' under
meath. but the slim slip of a woman
simply must have all the puff and
blow" all the fuss and feathers that
feminine wits can devise.
/ verify believe that among the cor
set follies of 1908 feathers are the
only tabooed decorations. but these
you may relegate to your topknot.
Well. to return: If you are the very
trig woman. who is reaching round
madly for fairness of surface line,
you may still find the corset edged
with the French northumberland
scallops or the perfectly smooth fold
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-11-29
OUR CORSET STORY.

OF pink or blue satin ribbon laid care
fully over the tape-bound upper edge.
This ribbon is three inches wide,
softly folded SO that one inch turns
toward the under side and two inches
over on the outside.
These is a very new and most luxu-
rious trimming Of satin and Irish
crochet tackled smoothly along the
top of the corset and then curved
down either side Of the front steel.
This little effort to run the TRIM
ming down the front In a point Is
evident in many Of the new models.
and sometimes there are other points
beside the middle front one. On a
few French corsets wide gathered
laces are. dipped down at intervals
all around the top.
All of the fu1led-on ribbons and
laces belong to the slender woman
There is the full fiounce Of net or
point d'esprit, FIVE inches deep and
edged with three rows of narrow rib
bon: if you are wearing shoulder
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-11-29
19 0H2 T Wa6 K ME6K BY 1.-THE FRILLS

separate ruf1les of two-inch German va
lenciennes edging.
If you seriously object, as by all means
you should. to the decided corset line
under your batiste blouse, rip off the
cheap something that masquerades as
lace-shades of our great-grandmothers.
who. knew what real lace was!-and sew
on three-inch frill just an inch below
the upper edge of the corset. Turn this
up and draw 1t together. It's wonder
full way to soften the contour.
Most Of these chemisstte effects have
the dearest little .quillngs Of ribbons
above the lace or outlining the Scallop-
ed edges. with a daring French bow
poked in here and there.
You may not trim girdle. but you
may put huge pow AT the Top 90 11 t tne
from t'other when you grab the thing
in a mad rush.
Ever since the suffragette began to
run about diffusing her sort of politics.
women have not voted as their fathers
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-11-29

straps this Is a most excellent meth
cd of covering them; the net frill
turns out and down. concealing the
whole upper corset, making it be-
coming thing instead of a mere
health precautionary brace. Also
there is a soft fold of white silk
that may be drawn over each strap.
ending under the arm at the back and
coming down in front with a big.
loose bow in the usual hollow be-
tween the arm and bust.
Now, speaking of hills and hollows
If you've never weighed enough to make
you happy and are quite willing to look
as II you do. weave three long widths
of tulle together in big, soft plait and
substitute it for the regular corset dec
GRAFTON. 1t goes without saving that this
reverse effect on the pocketbook from
the one you personally may be striving
for.
A less expensive fluffiness is obtain
able by the sewing on of five or six
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-11-29

"HE death knell Of the enormous
hat has not been sounded. by any
means, and as long the FASH
ions of the directoire and en-
pire periods are reigning supreme over
the land it is likely to hold its place
in the esteem of womankind. But
the advent of the turban has been
accepted as a fact in Paris and the
result is shown in the drawing for to-
day. 1t will not do. however. to take
just a cursory glance at the new hats.
They demand more attention. and 1t
takes really careful examination to dis
cover the particular points in the pres
ent mode.
In the first place. these turbans are
larger than they have been before, and
they fit quite over the couture, almost
hiding the pompadour in the front and
at the sides. Then they mostly are
made OF beaver, velvet and fur.
simple and they are arranged in a new
and very pretty way. Those hats that
are trimmed with quilts are adorned
with nothing else. When a velvet bow
Is placed jauntily on one side there
seems to be no further elaboration
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-11-29

did. and they have nursed their individ-
uahty So much So indeed, that they
are no longer ashamed to go abroad in
y corsets, while millionaire girl friends
nave half dozen that cost half hun
dred at home. The independent young
woman retrimS!
It's fad. this corset trimming at
home. and there's no preventing you
from trying your hand at it; but please
bear in mind that the specialist in cor
sets; as in all things. does just little
bit better job than you do. However, re-
trim it yourself. if the one you bought
was just plain ugly; but don't deny that
it was a mistaken purchase.
We women all do it; and, just among
ourselves men buy the wrong things.
too. only we hold ours aloft for .admi-
ration and then regret the exhibition
when we've got perspective view and
changed our minds.
l understand that men stuff their mis-
taken purchases way back in their bu-
reau drawers and think nobody ever
finds them out.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-11-29

THERE IS probably no accessory to
woman's dress upon which she Is
so ignorant as the feather in her
hat She accepts what is sold TO her.
but she knows nothing of its origins or
its value. In summing up the different
kinds OF feathers. it is not necessary to
take into consideration those which are
elaborate-fancy feathers. they are
called Taken all in all, there are but
five kinds of fcathers-ostrich plumes.
aigrettes. paradise pluines, maraDout
and the coarser varieties, under which
caption may include wings. quliis
and coque feathers. This Is very gen
eral distinction. but IL seems to cover
all that Is necessary. In this article We
will, however. ignore the coarser varie-
ties and take up only the more inter-
esting of the finest qualities of feathers
OF course the universal feather-the
only one that may be worn By mem
Der of the Audubon Society-is the os-
trich plume. This is because II Is
merely pulled from the bird without
causing il any great pain and without
inturing il in any way. Other feathers
may be got only by the death OF the
bird and. therefore. the benetcent So
ciety does not sanction their use.
But there are several kinds of ostrich
plumes. In the first place, We have the
long beautiful plume with three-inch
fues. so familiar to every one. 1t Is ex-
pensive. of course. because it must be
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-11-29

we'll dyed and well curled. and really
good feathers of this sort are very
scarce. This is plucked from the wings
of the ostrich and is used In its natural
state or dyed. Near this plume, ana
also on the wings of the ostrich. grows
the "byocks," plume somewhat on the
order of the regular ostrich plume, put
with ONLY one row of flues. inns Is
what is usually called a pluckea
plume" although it is really an mex
pensive form of the regular plume. Inc
latter In its natural state is pure white,
but the "byocks' are half white ana
half brown.
In choosing an ostrich plume. be sure
to see that the stem is In one piece.
not made of several smaller plumes
sewn or pasted together. 1t is In this
way that people are SO often deceived
On the plume there should be no paste
or stitches; the fiueS should grow natu-
rally from the stem and the stem itself
should be strong, yet pliable.
Che willow plume. the most expensive
of the ostrich family is a made plume
The length Of the fiue is acquired by ty-
ing extra fiues to those already on the
stem. That Is to say, If you take an ordi-
nary ostrich plume and cut the nues from
a second plume and tie them on the fiues
of the first plume. you will have a will
low plume. Needless to say, the knots
must be as inconspicuous as possible.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1908-07-17
MORMONISM
in ENGLAND
Rapid Growth Of the Dogma Has
Occasioned No Little Alarm
There.
Hearst News Service.

London, July 17.-The rapid growth
of mormonism in England was one of
the subjects for discussion at the re-
cent Pan-American Conference and
many promninet prelates declared that
they were greatly worried by it.
For some years Mormon missfonar-
les have been going about the eoun-
try and making many converts. There
is a large Mormon colony in Acton, a
West London suburb, and in the North
OF London, big Mormon church is
being built.
DR.. Spalding the Episcopal bishop
of Utah who was at the Congress when
Interviewed about Mormonism said:
"The Mormon church is the only
religious organization in the United
States which combines in definite
way religion and business. 1t is not
only church claiming unique and
final revelation from God, but it is
also an immigration society. Since
those who accept the offer of that
church of land and home in Utah
are expected to accept the Mormon
faith as we'll, it is important that they
should know what that faith is.
Joseph Smith, the prophet of the
Mormon Church taught that Christian
ity had ceased to exist on earth by the
eigth century and that he was definite
ly called to restore 1t. 1t is there
fore held by the Latter days Saints
that there is no valid Christian churcl
save their own"
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1908-07-17
JOY IS THE Greed
Of new religion

you may smile, and from the portals
of which morbidity and fear have been
banished.
my friends, be not deceived. Our
Father does not want us to approach
Him with long faces and downcast
eyes. Go to Him with happiness beam
ing from your countenance and over
flowing from your heart. Take a les
son in happiness from His creatures
the birds, with their songs of praise;
the glittering fishes, as they fiirt about
like glistening sunbeams in the silvery
waters or the animals, as they gambol
on the gfeensward. Crime and de-
pravity are unknown to such of Gods
creatures. 1t is left for man to be
morbid and sorowful and sinful.
There is no crime in the enhancing
strains of music; no sin in the simple
means of enjoyment called games; nc
secretiveness or wrongdoing in this
bright and cheerful glare of Gods
electricity.
BLUE laws and fanatics will find nj
place in the religion of the future.
Those of you who profess to b.
Christians. l beseech you do not seel
to take away the joys of the peopl
by imposing fanatical conditions upol
them. Do not waste your energis
upon that which does no harm, excep
you regard happiness as harm. Rattle
go We, as God has commanded, out int
the sin-darkened highways and int
the gloomy hedges and seek poo
downcast, sinful humanity, and brin
them to the light"
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1908-07-17
Mississippi Central

Leaves Hattiesburg, Sis a. m.
Arrives Rrookhaven Has a. m.
Leaves Brookhaven 300 p. m.
Arrives Natchez $3.50 p. m.
No q
Leaves Natchez $50 a. m.
Arrives Brookhaven 12:40 p. m.
Leaves Brookhaven 800 p. m.
Arrives Hattiesburg $3.50 p. m.
No. 8
Leaves Hattiesburg $3.50 p. m.
Arrives Brookhaven 700 p. m.
No. p
Leaves Brookhaven sos a. m.
Arrives Hattiesburg 1885 a. m.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1908-07-17
81 [ D q ID
POISON "a
EO Bone Pains, Can sXN
KM Ger, Scaly Skin, % ]
% PimlRS tNZ
We Will Send Sample Showing How
q. q. 3. Cures Above TrobIes, also
Eczema and Rheumatism.
FREE

For twenty-five years Botanic Blood
Balm (B. B. b. has been curing year.
y thousands of sufferers from Primary,
Secondary or Tertiary Blood Poison
and all forms of Blood Disease. We
solicit the most obstinate cases, for
B. B. B. cures where all else fails.
If you have exhausted the old meth
DDS of treatment and still have aches
and pains in the bones, back or joints,
Rheumatism, Mucous Patches in mouth,
Sore Throat, Pimples, Coper-Color-
ed Spots, Ulcers on any part of the
body. Eating Sores, are run down or
nervous, Hair or Eyebrows falling out,
axe B. B. B. 1t kills the poison, makes
the blood pure and rich, healing every
sore and completely changing the en-
tire body into a clean, healthy condi-
ton. Itching, watery blisters or open
itching humors, Risings or pimples or
Eczema all leave after killing the poi
son and purifying the blood with B. b.
B. In this way flood of pure, rich
blood is sent direct to the skin surface,
the itching stops forever and, evry hui
NOR or sore is healed and cured.
BOTANIC BLOOD BALM (B. 3. b. +,
is pleasant and safe to take; composed
of pure Botanic ingredients. 1t purifies
and enriches the blood.
DRUGGISTS, 81 PER BOTTLE with
directions for home. cure.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1908-07-17
Watch chIIdren,s Nerves.

Mothers should guard their children
from nervous exhaustion, form OF
fatigue which often manifests itself
after concentration on the part of the
child either in play or work. Its
chief indications are languor, indiffer-
ence, or irritability. Children should
not be allowed to do for any length
of time work which requires much
concentration, and should be taught
how to relax. This is an easy thing
to accomplish and is Of the utmost Inn
portance for children of a highly
strung nervous temperament.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1908-07-17
meat Consumed in New York.

The average daily amount of meat
consumed by each individual in New
York city is two and six-tenths cents
worth, which is falling off Of about
one-half cent in five years.
The Hattiesburg news. (Hattiesburg, Miss.) 1908-1917, 1908-07-17
ENHANCING MUSIC
IS NEVER A crime
Evangelist of the New Faith Makes
Stirring Appeal to the Sense and
Judgment Of the Human Race Of the
World.
Hearst News Service.

Washington, July 17-Happ' less
and Joy and personal liberty are the
basic creeds of a new religion which
has Just been launched in Washington
by Evangelist Theodore Valiant, son
of the late Bishop Valiant. Already
the newest creed has gained many con-
verts and Valiant declares that 1t will
soon spread ALLOW the country. Sun
day laws which seek to restrict the
innocent sports of the people are de-
nounced by this modern evangelist,
who has gained the assistance OF lead
ers in the persoaI liberty movement.
At present, Valiant's church is a local
amusement park, where he breaches to
enthusiastic thousands.
In regard to his new creed, Evangel-
list Valiant says:
1.-THE old hell of the new religion
with it's flaming fires, it's dancing imps
in leather hides, its catacombs of lead
hopes, and its fumes of sulphur, is a
thing of the past. 1t was adroity EN-
ployed to brighten people into the
church. Today the modern religion
does not prey upon the fears and ig
norance of the people. 1t says God II
love, God is light, God is happiness. |
bids you come to church with acclaim
of joy. 1t presents a church in whicl