The sun., 1908-11-22
OLD JEVELRY The RAGE
.@EfRLOOMS or ROYALTY WORN
By NEW YORK WOMEN.


S. as Part OF the Revival OF the DlreetSire
RnsliOns- Much Jewoiry Once Owned
By Noble Families in Europe New
Held IN AmeFica-The Collectors.
0ns OF the noticeable changes In fashion
Z aa evidenced at the opera and the Horse
Show has brought about q now era In
fswslry for which the Directoire, Empire
a. First Consulate, as one may choose TO
term the period TO which women have
fetutned, is undoubtedly responsible.
barbario generosity In '1ewelry
marked the attire of the Empress Joseph
me. Who was responsible for 80 many Of
tie styles that In modified form are seen
on the street. at the theatre. opera and
public and private functions. Pearls
! wsre favorites with her. and pearls ere In
consequence to the fore again.
In the dressing room Of the Manhattan
Opera House on the opening night q young
woman with q turquoise Empire gown
was seen adjusting at the loop Of the
affils ends an exquisite fillgree buckle
oE gold enorusted with seed pearls, which
epoke the word heirloom In silent elo-
quetce. Her only other ornament con-
hIstsd Of necklace Of the same tiny seeds
braided and twisted and at the clasp worn
thin by the use OF many generations was
the initial Of a family whose diamonds
and other gems have furnished Q topic
E Of interest for many years.
In one of the boxes. topping an elabor-
ate cosffure Of puffs. curls and braids. was
q coronet of dull silver set with diamonds
Of the old Indian mines. Of the rare blue
#Na4% ~ NtvnkA -
noieeeur as an undoubted find at some
Partisan jewellers shop. This same oon-
uoIsseur. lost to such matters as high
notes and sartorial eccentricities. pointed
out here and there In box and orchestra
4 eazt proof of his contention that conven-
tionality in jewelry at the present moment
marks the limited bank account and the
tnsdiocre spirit.
Fashion" he quotes sententiously.
has. according to Balzao, never been
anything moro than the general opinion
on the subject Of dress; and the general
s opinion to-day 10 that one must be in
B itvidusl as they were at that most artis-
Go period in France and the individuality
must conform to the general rule as sug-
Eested by the leaders of the nodes"
The speaker points to the golden au-
reoled head Of pretty girl whose loops
and twists OF hair are caught by shell
combs. each with q narrow line Of dia-
rlonds across the top with tiny heur
de lis In the centre and remarks that the
ornRmentation Of combs was one of the
most conspicuous modes In the Empire
days and that particular design was
used considerably. though not OF. course
quito so much as the bee comb in which
the heur de lis was replaced by the Ma
polsonic insect with outstretohed wings
encrusted with tiny gems.
The long neck chains. popular in the
3 First Consul days and of which Parisians
are particularly fond were seen at out
the necks Of many Of the older women.
One particularly beautiful chain was long
enough to twist about the neck a second
time and to permit second twist below
The bust. 1t was ornsmented with rose
coral oblongs. perfectly matched In color
aud size, holding q coral enorusted lor-
3 gnette OF the Louis XVI. period. This
ohain. coral hair combs, and a coral or
namented buckle completed the decora-
lions of q coral tinted velvet gown, Of
; course In Empire mode, with long sweep
Ing train and extremely high waist line.
Many of these long chains are now
worn to hold the muff and one beautiful
I young woman. divesting herself of set
of white fox, slipped from the muff an
exquisite chain of handwrought gold,
40 undoubted antique. too valuable to
be left TO the chances Of public ward
S robe. Another chain of black enamel
on silver held the pillow muff Of black
Tow af Horua Show y1nafin6a and atiIl
another. utilized in the same way, har-
nionized with suit Of imperial blue
and was in semi-precious stones Of the