The Hawaiian gazette. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1865-1918, 1908-10-16


Tutuila. which is one of the finest in
the Pacific. The islets of Tau, oles
singa and Ofu are also included in the
American cession. All along the dan
gerous coast lighthouses have been
placed at close intervals, and the en-
trance to the harbor IS so narrow and
at right angles with the land-locked
stretch of water that the view of the
ocean is cut off completely. The noun
tains by which it is encircled are very
lofty, clothed with heavy forests of
breadfruit and other tropical trees, SO
PERCEPTIONS in many places that they
would defy the most seasoned noun
tain climber; while their crests are so
sharp that not even a goat can make
its way along them. Within these i'm
pregnable, natural ramparts is stretch
of water so deep and so great in extent
that it has been thus described by the
former Chief Justice Chambers:
"The harbor could hold the entire
naval force of the United States, and
is so perfectly arranged that only two
vessels can enter at time. The coal
ing station, being enclosed by high
mountains, can not be reached by
shells"
My first view of Pago Pago was in
the month of February. We cast an
Choir at Q o 'clock-a cloudy, moonless
night. The gradual approach to the
harbor was beautiful beyond descrip-
ton. The sea, without ripple, re-
fected the after glow following the
sunset, its CLASSY surface disturbed
only by the leaping of the bonita, a
fish dear to Samoan epicures. The
lights began to CLEAN from the light
houses here and there, giving one a
strange impression of approaching ia
miliar shores. 1t was quite dark, how
ever, before we anchored and we were
Immediately surrounded by the natives
in their outrigger boats, offering their
wares-beautiful baskets, mats, neck
laces of shells, tapas and fruits-to the
passengers on board the steamer, the
bargaining conducted over the rail. and
the purchases being drawn up by long
lines, after the money had been thrown
down to the native.
Tutuia being American territory. no
duty was charged. on these wares, and
baskets and pieces of tapa, which are
sold in Honolulu for SO (12s.) each,
were eagerly disposed of for Is, or
soc.
We left the steamer and paid call
upon Governor Moore, as he was ordi-
narily addressed, on board the anti
quated Adams, an old wooden ship, so
obsolete as to be almost a curiosity.
A dance had been given that evening
in the absence of electric light the
deck was dimly lighted with lanterns
in honor of two beautiful native girls
from Apia, well educated, well bred,
and charming. They were the guests
of Captain Charles B. T. Moore, then
commandant of the station, and Mrs.
Moore. Captain, or. as he was more
often called, Governor Moore, had been
in command of the station for some
time, and his great object had been tn
initiate the Samoans into the art of
self-government. He was very proud
of the fact that they had paid for the
construction of their roads and the
maintenance of their schools, the head
master having been brought out, not
from the United States, but from Lon
don.
Shortly before my arrival n dispute
had arisen over the price of copra be-
tween the traders, always on the alert
to take advantage of the natives, and
the chiefs of islands within the Gov
ernor's jurisdiction. The Samoans sent
deputation to him asking that he
decide the case on it's merits. This he
refused to do, but suggested that the
villages each select n delegate. to a
council when they themselves could ar.
range satisfactory terms with the
traders.
They endeapored to do this, but as
the days passed and no agreement was
reached they sent a second conference
to the Governor telling him that it
was impossible for them to agree. They
expressed themselves willing to abide
by any arrangement which he suggest
ed, feeling that their rights would be
protected. He finally consented and
the affair was arranged if not to the
entire satisfaction of the traders, at
least to the Samoans.
After an interesting visit on board
the Adams, we returned to the SonOma:
The way back to the ship was light
ed up by fiaring torches on the boats,
which were gliding here and there over
the inky waters, and we had glimpses
of the frowning cliffs, dark and mys-
terious, which hemmed us in, with the
snow white frigate birds, startled from
their sleep, flying about their nests.
Returning later, we made Page Page
at 5 o'clock--a cloudless. burning,
tropical morning. By daylight we had
full view of the steep, dark cliffs,
the narrow stretch of level land at
their base, where are clustered the few
foreign houses and matched huts of
the natives. The barracks for the
native constabulary were within the do
main of the naval station, with the
soldiery off duty lolling about the YER
anda at their ease, Their costume was
tasteful and suitable in the extreme
but one thought it would be instantly
tabooed by certain reformers in the
United States, did they but know what
it was and was not.
1t consisted simply of dark blue
lava-laya, skirt, or drapery,, extend
ing from the waist to the knee, with
two narrow scarlet stripes above the
hem. The feet we're bare, as were
the splendid bronze torsos, the head
covered by a gracefully knotted scarlet
'kerchief, harmonizing with the scarlet
stripes of the laya-lava. Stalwarti
l,,a,. - tbar- xuarira1 18th a