The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1908-12-20

used. Nearly all the wash waists use
such q finish.
Collars for the silks and net and
other fine materials are more often
of the material finely tucked and nm
dshed at the top with a frill of lace
or net or a pompadotrr ruche
Speaking of the Directoire tie-it is
really tie about six inches in lenzta
an inch and a half wide It As adjust
ed by placing one end under the collar
and bringing 1t out over the top and
over the lower end so that It will hide
the collar closing in front The up-
per end is little shorter than the
4ower one A gold bar pin should be
passed through the collar over the
tie.
The bayadere tie is the narrow tie
of velvet, silk or satin string, the ends
finished with a tassei or some orna-
ment. They are used with the high
standing collars of lace and are
placed about the lower edge to hide
the joining OF the collar and the waist
proper. Many beautiful effects may
be obtained by these different ties
and collars.
The new tweeds are very pleasing
in effect and make up into very hand
some dresses that are intended for
stormy weather and for travelling
wear. Some of the smartest of these
are showing shot effects, such IS blue
and purple, green and brown, a
sepia and copper, a gray and brcHn,.
and many other fine combinations ara
to be found which give a clue for an
attractive color scheme
For a pretty dress for which one
wishes a few changes. one may be-
had by the use OF filet and Irish
crochet for guinnpe and sleeves or
for collar and cuff set. The fotrndz~
ton is of the filet and in the fancy
work shops are to be found rosettes,
howers and all sorts OF odd designs
to be placed on a filet lace crochet
background. For instance, a coat eet
for black tailored suit. The 0lek
set was first made the right size, and
then small Irish crochet roses, six for
the collar and three for each cum, vers
set round the edge extending half
their width over the edge. The ropes
were finished and joined together by
small crochet leaves The f7let = not
hrmer foundation to the set The
upper part of the collar and cuff may
he finished with q picot edge.
On dark coats all sorts of fancy
accessories are used today for this il
the year of lavish characterization.
Some very beautiful embroidered linen
collars are to be seen and many OF
them also employ appliques witk the
embroideries.
One of the best designs far remo.f<
cling an old waist consists of a gfndle
or belt with broad bands passing
over the shoulders in suspepder eject
with or without the shaped bretella
effect. The girdle in the high waisa
model should be Of soft messaline or
surrah silk with dong sash ends at the
back. Persian hands or embroidered
filet bands make attractive decora-
tons OF this sort.
A little extension to the left at the
top of the front gore, overlapping the
left gore, Is a smart feature Offering
an effective closing for the skirt with
buttons. In round length this Is an
attractive model for the skirt OF a
the wide vale is best liked, and the
wider the better.
Too much can not be said for the
time tried mohair for tailored shirt
waist suits in black, dark blue or
green, smoky-gray or bronze-broHn-
1t also comes In the most effective
shallow stripes and checks. With this
skirt q waist should be provided OF
the mohair in plain tailored style,
with white linen collar and cuffs and
for milder weather light coat OF the
same material
Cashmere de sole is q material that
is well liked for the afternoon ccs-
tune made IN Direcfoire style cr for
the empire gown for the house. While
it retains the appearance Of the old
It is very soft and supple.
drapes beautifully ana - as Light -
silk.
Embroidered belts Of all 1fnds Of
materials will be used this season
with the normal waist gown Velvet
is often used as q foundation 3nf he
The tailored shirt waist wa cons.
tinue in favor during the wfuter-{
Even lace and net are used TO deve1oX
such models made perfectly plain eH4
cept it may be for few fucks to give
the desired fulness.