The San Francisco call., 1908-09-13
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for Missee
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wear II is. in fact, a storm coat, even
though it is not made Of waterproof
material. The macintosh is also nee
essary as a part of the girls outfit, but
the macintosh does not take the place
Of q heavy ulster. The macintosh, be-
ing Of very light material. is suitable
for rain in summer or very early fall;
but when real autumn sets in some
thing heavier is necessary in the way
of a storm coat. The long ulster not
only serves this purpose, but it is also
Of great use on dry weather occasions
when the girl wishes to go out without
changing TO her street suit. She also
may make use of an ulster to go over
dancing frocks, etc, of the sort that are
worn to q dancing class, which are not
elaborate party frocks, and for gym
nasium suits, etc. In fact, the school
girl has almost as many uses for the
large ulster as has the trained nurse.
Tan covert cloth is the favorite ma
terial for the long ulster Mixed ma
terial in light and medium colors, all in
brown and gray tints are also fashion
able. Then, there are serge coats in
blue, brown and gray, and heavier coats
of Irish frieze. English tweeds, etc. The
coats may be either lined or unlined.
For lightweight coats foulard is used
as a lining and for heavier ones there
are satin and brocade, the latter being
used in stripes and plaids for the lining
of that sort Of coat. Flowered Innings
are considered too dainty for these
coats and are reserved for party
coats" such as are made of broadcloth
or other fine materials.
For wear with these ulsters there
are plaid, checked and striped skirts
with plain linen or flannel shirt waists
and severe tailored linen collars or
stocks. The one piece frocks, with
separate guimpes. which are so useful
and attractive for the schoolgirl, are
also worn with these ulsters as well as
with coats to match.
For the afternoon gown, which is
rather more dressy than the every day
school frock and yet which doesn't
trench on the party frock precincts,
cashmere is the most popular material
Noile. crepe de chine. etc, are also used
but fine quality cashmere is newer and
therefore more desirable These frocks
. are trimmed with satin bands, with lace
embroidery and velvet The frock shown
in the illustration is of pale green cash
mere, with a guimpe and cuffs of lace
and belt of black satin. The black
satin is also used for a band around
the foot of the skirt and around the
square yoke and at the bottom of the
sleeve caps The skirt is circular and
the waist very little bloused with two
over the shoulder The sleeve is a
rather scant puff taken in to a deep
tight fitting cuff of lace. In selecting
the afternoon frock the color and fine
ness of the material are the most i'm
portant features to be considered The
most beautiful shades very rarely are
10 be found in the cheaper grades of
material and, though a rose by any
other name might smell as sweet. it
wouldn't look as sweet-that is if it
were in the form of rose gown, unless
it was in just as fine material as the
model from which it was copied.
Rather light colors are chosen for
these afternoon gowns because IT is
nice to be able to change from the hard
wear every day clothes to something
quite different Besides 1t adds inn
mensely to the charm of the school
gatherings at which these frocks usu-
ally figure TO have an assemblage of
light charming costumes instead of an
oversedate and sober collection. All the
geranium tints are favorites for this
style Of frock. and they look very at
tractive with cream guimpes and black.
satin trimmings or trimmings in q
deeper shade of the same color as that
from which the gown is made Certain
shades of tan or gray are also popular
combined with satin trimmings of a
bright shade. Tan cashmere for in
win OiSdul ldCe trimmings and
harmonious blue for the vivid touches
Is very attractive. Gray is particularly
exquisite with different shades of green
This season there is particular
craze for gray gowns trimmed with
green and black, and a gray cashmere
frock trimmed with green satin and
little black velvet or with black satin
and little green velvet is a most At
tractive costume.
line batiste embroidery is used for
the schoolgirls frocks often in
preference to lace, and when lace
is used II is very attractive TO have ii