Daily Arizona silver belt., 1908-09-17
, New Ideas in Petticoats

New Ideas ln PetucoatS
 Nine women out of ten will wear a petticoat under even the most diree toire of gowns, but it is a humbled and chastened petticoat, garment self effacing, noseless, fashioned of soft ma terial, mere ghost of its former ag- gressive self.
 The lingerie petticoat must have no starch today. Its uper part must be fitted closely, its flounces must be set on with little flat tucks instead of shirring, or so cut and shaped that it joins the skirt without fitness. It must not be too ample, either, this petticoat tlounce, and it must fall in the softest folds around the feet, affording support to the bottom of the dress, yet not forcing it out
 Many of the new French lingerie pet ticoats dispense with the under support and its narrow frill, having merely a deep single founee set as smoothly as possible upon the body of the skirt, and the softest of lingerie materials are used for the purpose instead of the crisper lawns, but those, of course, are the extreme models, and the ordinary wash petticoat for wear with long skirts is much like that of yester-year, only more closely fitted and always laun- dered without starch.
 With the rise of the limp pettieoat taffeta has lost its ,undisputed suprem- acy as pettieoat silk. To be sure, the taffetas themselse have softened wonder fully during the past few years, and a good chiffon taffeta does not have the cracking rustic once coveted and now tabooed.
 Moreover, vast majority of the ready made petticoats are fashioned of and will continue to be made from that material, but other silks have entered ready acceptance among women fastid- iously modish. The soft satins are ex- cecdingly popular; surah is used by the manufacturers; china silk is rated among petticOat materials, and even crepe is made up into petticoats, though its tendency to stretch makes it less de sirable than firmer silken stuffs.
 Dainty French petticoats of China silk in white and light tints are made up after the fashion of certain French pettieoats in lawn, pongee, etc, with embroidered flounces whose buttons are scallOped and buttonholed. Some of these very soft silk models are most elaborate, the embroidery eoverying al most the entire founee, but others have only the embroidered edge and some simple embroidered design, such as grad uated dots, for a border.
 A frill of lace is usually set under the scalloped edge and the hounee is set on the petticoat with shirring, the silk be. ing so fine and soft that such fullness shows no awkward line under the dress skirt.
 Other petticoats of China silk, less ex pensive, but rather more pretentious and quite effective in way less elegant than that just described, have deep founces formed of alternating bands of lace insertion and silk. the width of the silk bands graduating from wide at the hounee bottom to narrow at the top. A frill of lace finishes the bottom of the founee and this shaped fiounee is joined smoothly to the petticoat under a wide fancy lace beading through which satin ribobn is run.
 If the outer skitt will permit. this ribbon may be tied in big soft bow at the side, but many of the new skirts are disfgured by even so soft bit of fullness as this bow on the pettieoat.
 Deep-shaped hounces of very coarse silk ilet net are set on carefully fitted petticoats of soft silk and the filet IS then ornamented by tiny ruchings of valeneiennes lace or silk applied in fan ciful designs. Sometimes motifs of heavy lace are set into the flet and bordered by the minute ruchings, which also form scroll designs on the plain net.