davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1908-02-23
schwab Sails for Home

BY Associs ted Press
LIVERPOOL, Feb. 22-Charles M.
Schwab left here today for New York
on the steamer Mauritania.
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1908-02-23
Cease Your Worry

Cease Your Worry
II your child Is threatened with Group give
Il Chamberlain's Cough Remedy, and all
danger will be avoided. 1t contains nothing
I'm any way injurious and is pleasant to take
Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1908-02-23
NO PROTEST TO BE MADE
AGAINST JAPAN'S ACTION

WASHINGTON Feb. 22-It was
stated with positiveness at the state
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15
SELECTING FURs.
Choose Skins That Are Becoming to
Complexion.

Complexion.
When buying furs-that are cheap just
now, because the season is practically
over-if women would select skins for
their becomingness, instead of for the
style, how much more attractive they
would look.
Take, for instance, the case of sealskin
or ermine, the two most fashionable peits
of the moment. A dark-haired. dark-eyed
woman with sallow or colorless skin Will
look her very worst in either, by reason
of the contrast between the delicate white
of the ernine or the glossy, hue Of the
dark seaiskin and the lusterless black hair
and vellowy Wilderness Of the complexion
Yet the same woman IN mink, rich brown
fox or marten would be fascinating, for
the sallow skin appears clearer and tints
of pink creep into the pale. waxy skin.
while the hair will actually seem to have
taken on new life.
The ash blonde and the red-haired
blonde are also types not easily suiteo IN
furs. AS a rule. very dark and very lght
furs are becoming to these complexlons'
The darker shades of sealskin are admlra-
BILE and so is ermine, also all the genuine
black furs.
White and creamy furs may De ~ ua !,
successfully by both types. Blue-gray
fur may also be chosen, unless there is
a tinge of green in the eyes, then steer
gray tones will look better.
If tastes incline toward brown furs
these types must be careful to select the
very darkest shades. Genuine mink is one
of the most unbecoming skins that the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15

work because everything depends upon
how this invaluable garment is put on,
and it would be impossible to get it into
correct position if it were worn over the
petticoats.
Now, what most smart women will
wear are petticoats of crepe de chine
or mOusseline de sole. which have been
launched by one of the best known
dressmakers of the Rue de la Paix.
These petticoats are fitted over the hips
as carefully as riding habit might be,
and they fall in loose but clinging folds
from hips to knees. where they are deCked
dion plated material. These fiounces. as
a rule. are not all made of the same
material as the upper part of the skirt.
for underneath there will be a plated
f1ounce of softest chine silk, then one of
mousseline de sole, then one of the silk
net. and. last of all. a flounce of the
same stuff the top of the skirt or
of filet lace inset with motifs of maltese
lace and applica atoms of taffeta. Nothing
could be more dainty than these petticoats
or more practical, as they answer every
requirement. They do not take up any
space over the hips. and they give at the
extreme hem just the flare which is abb
solutely necessary if the gown is to hang
we'll L have already seen several of
these ideal skirts Some were made of
crepe de 'chine. as described, and others
of the thinnest wash silk. The latter
are exceedingly practical and attractive
for day wear. wash silk in the best
quality is material which lasts a sur
prisingly long time.
No Great Change.
1t is rather soon to prophesy, but 1t
is more than likely that the early spring
will not see any great departure from
the present style of coat and skirt suits
the loose jacket with rounded basque
falling away from the front and the short
plated skirt or it's longer plain relative.
But the basque will be shortened and
the fronts little more trim. with Gimp
ses of dainty waistcoats. In one thing,
however there is certainty-there will be
"a great feeling on the part of fashion in
favor of alpacas and mohAirs. Always
popular on account of their light weight
and adaphbility for dusty. changeabe
spring weather. they will gain immensely
this season by being made practically
urcrushable iand nothing better for d cos
tune for the next few months could
be imagined. 1t is not possible to write
about fashions and dispense with a dis
cusson of how tile new skirts will be
made. and at the risk of being insistent
l am going to tell you that the newest
gowns designed for the early. spring are
made in the corselet style with a high
waisted skirt. Tiny plaits are arranged
across the front of the figure and SINH
lar plaits appear on the corselet part of
the Jupe. Thess plaits are always very
small and very fatty disposed. the ma
teriai being on the cross pulled into pO-
sition on the figure and, then held I'm
place by invisible stitches | am afraid
it will be impossible for amateur hands
have fearful possibilities unless exquisitely
fitted. Many of the corselet skirts have
turic effect. the latter being sometimes
made to dip down in front and some-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15

a basque. and the hone buttons that are
used to fasten it down the front carry
out this effect. 1t has the old-time regu
| lation seams down the back. The arm
holes are small, and likewise the sleeves
which are as close-fitting as it is possible
/, for them to be and accommodate shirt
| waist sleeve.
The hat that goes with this suit is q
small toque of the English type that sets
well back on the head. and is trimmed
| with a rosette of soft silk in brown and
| yellow tones. The woman who wears this
| costume will be recognized as one in the
foremost ranks of fashion. She will have
| sacrificed, to be sure. her picturesque
charm to this old new cult. but the resul:
will be distinguished and smart.
The New Vogue in Collars.
Following in the wake of the trig cos
standing collars that are so much newer
and\ smarter than the most expensive
French hand-embrodered turnovers.
They are a straight white linen band
without gloss, and the laundress must by
no means turn back the points in front,
which the wearer does when she puts the
collar on her neck. In this way becom-
ing turnover is effected Long ago when
these same collars were in style they
were worn with silk four-in-hands and
aScOtS, but only few women are appear
ing in these mannish ties now. They
wear instead pretty. dainty cravats of
batiste swiss null That are rather
wide and trimmed with lace. at the edges.
A pin holds them in place at the back
of the collar, and a design of the same
sort pins the butterfly ends together at
the throat. Another fad of the up-tO-
date girl is that of wearing her jabot
outside of her coat. The up-to-date girl,
too. will not think of wearing cloche
hat. Everything points to the fact that
it's day is surely over. In one form 1t is
still fashionable, and that is when the
brim is rolled back off the hair toward
the left side The success of the moment
is the crepe lisse chapeau with its brim
bordered by band of stitched silk. and
the tule model is fetching swathed in
artistic fashion until all that is visible is
a lot of fluffy puftings arranged in a
symmetrical fashion and topped with an
aigret of black or color. For restaurant
dinners to wear with dem-toilets are the
delicious De Stael turbans of gray tulle
trimmed with towering >gray or white
aigrets. The folds are held by immense
pearl balls.
The Ever PopulaIs Toque.
Only those who are ignorant of the
ways of the Parisienne speak of the
toque as out of fashion in Paris or as
coming in again. 1t never goes out, for,
come what fashion may, the Parisienne
has always a toque to her liking in
her wardrobe. 1t is part of her. At
present there is the jaunty type placed
rather sidewise on the head, allowing the
hair to be pinned prettily up on one side,
or there is the turban shape rather over
towering, but not displeasng with tie
loose style of coat. Naturally as ex-
travagantly large hats become de mode
the haArdressing becomes much simpler
and more natural. Side partings, which
are always becoming to faces that de-
pend upon expression for their attrac-
ton, are coming in again, the front hair
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15
Real Blooms Amid the False.

Wearing real flowers on hats is not
altogetherNew for last year an American
beauty living in London wore fresh
punches of gardenias on her leghorn hat
and broke the millinery record of the
season. Now, however. word comes from
Paris that q curious fashion has made
its appearance in company with the lat
est tailor-m made gown. Real and artificial
flowers are mixed as trimming for hats,
and neat little buttonhole bouquets are
similarly made to be tucked in the cut
away coat now much worn. @ The real
flowers are used sparingly, as they mus.
be renewed every day For instance.
a hat covered with artificial violets will
have one real fresh rose pinned In at the
side Another popular mixture 1s
toQue of white velvet roses with large
cluster of real parma violets. Artificial
terra Gotta chrysanthemums combined
with yellow chrysanthemums are also
we'll liked. The little buttonhole bouquets
are made to match the floral trimming on
the hat having a real flower IN the CEN
ter surrounded by artificial blooms.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15

This pillow may be worked in the
French embroidery stitch. If desired the
size of pillow may be altered by cutting
and sln fading the design.
Everything shown on the miniature cut
will appeal on the large sheet.
When you have sent 10 cents to The
Star and lave received the full size work.
ing patter.; noted above. follow these di-
sections
La" mater al on which transfer is to be
made on hard smooth surface. Sponge ma
terial uniformly with damp cloth. Ma
ierial should be damp. not too wet. Lay
pattern iace down or material and press
firmly. rubbing from you with crumpled
handkerchief an hand.
Transfer will be sufficiently plain very
soon, as you will notice il you raise the
paper by one corner occasionally
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15

blond ardente can choose. and the same
may be said Of red or undyed fox.
Another mistake is often made by the
brunette of vivid coioring - the red-and-
| cream-skinned woman. She will some
times choose erhine with an idea OF
| bringing out her rich coloring-" This is
! true. perhaps. but SO strong is the CON
| trast that the result is inartistic. for the
hair appears black instead Of dark brown.
| while the tints of the skin will be so in
| tensified as to give the effect of coarse
ness.
The rich brown furs. golden and light.
| the gray shades and the red and the yell
low fox are hers.
Age. too is something to be reckoned
with in the successful wearing of furs-
much more SO. In fact. than may be at
first imagined. especially middle age. that
most difficult stage in a womaps life.
Take the average woman Of fifty or
more. with iron gray locks and skin be-
reft Of it's freshness. and let her wear
caracal sealskin or ermine. 1t will add
ten years to her appearance. yet. strange
ly enough when the white or silvery-
haired really old lady dons such furs ten
years seem to disappear from her APP
parent age The fair skin that usually
accompanies pretty white hair becomes
fresher and daintier still by the contrast
Mink or any rich brown furs are the
best choice for the woman past her first
youth. Then there is the fair brunette.
the golden blonde, ETC.. with special needs
which,space prevents my going into How
ever. as a rule, the brunette with good
coloring can wear with success every |
shade Of brown fur; also gray or gray |
blue furs. Mink, marten, chinchiila RED
and yellow fox are hers. as well as cara
cal. Brown is, however. first choice. The
brunette of the dive or sallow skin can
wear rich sable nhpk. red fox and silver
gray. but not blue-gSay fox.
The very"fa brunette, dark-haired with
blue or blue-gray eyes and fair complex
lon, can wear the lighter shades of seal
skin; also chinchilla, the white and the
creamy furs. mink. sable and marten.
The woman Of the nondescript type may
adopt the same list IL her complexion Is
clear. or If she has a touch of color. nj
,he is sallow. however, it will be better
20 omit white and the creamy furs.
The genuine blonde will look her best in
'urs that are either very dark or directly
opposite in hue. She can wear caracal.
black lynx, dark sealskin, ermine and
white fox.
When the eyes and eyebrows are dark.
.hinchilla or blue fox is becoming, but
when the eyes are blue and eyebrows and
ashes pale in shade. thes0vgray furs are
lpt to suggest insipidity.
The red-haired blonde will also become
my fur chosen from the above list, and
lark brown fur may be added to the skins
hat will look well.
White and creamy-hued furs are by
light those Of the ash blonde, and so are
ii black furs, chinchilla and blue gray.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15
Striking Costume.

The craze for the long tight-fitting plain
skirt and fancy coat was exem7lified in
a smart suit that was seen recently in
a shop.
The material was a warm gray broad
cloth and the hipless skirt clnging to the
figure was long. of course.
The coat was less than half length.
made semi-fittins in the back and very
much cut away In the fronts.
The sleeves were so plain at the top
they looked as il they were in one piece
with the body OF the coat. They gathered
into flaring cuffs.
The distinguishing feature was rows of
velvet ribbon. a shade darker than the
cloth. set on around the sleeves the first
one concealing the armhole SEAM.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15
The Fashionable Short Skirt.

A reader Of the Bazaar has written me to
ask what is the proper. e.. the prevail
ng-skirt length. She has been puzzled
almost to the point of despair at the
short skirts she sees worn by many really
fashionable women, and the long ones
that are pictured as fashionable. Which
Of these ought she to follow. This de-
ponds entirely upon circumstances. All
dress skirts for formal wear are long.
quite as long a S the pictured ones. Some
of them are uncomfortably long in front,
and many have slight trains. On the other
hand ali walking skirts are short, some
remarkably SO. A few days ago 1 saw
slender. trinity formed little woman Of
thirty-five in a blue cloth suit Gust COM
pleted by a fashionable tailor which
barely concealed her shoe tops. The
modishness Of her dress was not to be
questioned. but-a to its real appropriate
ness a difference of opinion is bound 10
Arise.-Harper's Bazaar.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15

out of the question for many women. but.
fortunately the enbroidering OF it ma kes
delightful and rapid pickup work. and
no woman who does fancy work should
fail to do either trimming Or whole
blouse.
Choose the square-meshed net. as it Is
the newest and, having selected suit
able design. work it by counting the
threads OF the filet much in the way our
grandmothers embroidered on net for
borders OF curtains.
Use a lace thread. or if silky look
is preferred. the heavy mercerized rope
cottons or rope silk can be substituted.
When the pattern is run in in white 1t
can have the design picked out in colored
silks gold thread, If You wish to do
something more elaborate the flowers
and foliage can be outlined with colored
chenille worked over thin wire.
The Elbow Sleeve Triumphant.
The woman with rounded arms and del
icately modelled. plump wrists need not
fear the advent of the long sleeve. While
long sleeves are now and will be more
worn the coming season than in the past
year or so. they will by no means super.
sede the short or elbow or rather elbow
length sleeve.
While the latter is trying mode unless
one has a tapered rounded forearm, with
delicate wrists and hands. Its comfort
anu III many lIlS(dHSSa ltS OSoiOiiS hdNC
made place for 1t even with those whose
were better hidden from view. !
Even now, in midwinter. many coats of a |
dressy cut are made with the three-quar- |
ter-length sleeves. and in many cases
even the tailored coat sleeves are of q |
seven-eighths length only.
For years would-be prophets have pre-
1icted the death of the blouse waist and
The short skirt but they are still with us
and always will be.
With the advent Of warm weather there
s not the slightest doubt that the great
whatever mode they adopt now.
will go back to at least the three-quarter-
ength sleeves 1t is fortunate that all
sleeve lengths are worn. as in no other
way can women dress themselves in the
most becoming manner.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15

the error of doing her hair in this pug.
Quite in line with bizarre hairdressng
is the daring venture in hats. 1t is
demi-season model that is carried out in
white satin stretched smoothly over the
odd frame. A scarf of white chiffon cloth
is about the crown and is crossed at the
nape Of the neck. brought around the
throat and tied in the back with long
ends \ panache of white ostrich feath-
ers is the only other trimming. A strik-
ing effect in black and white checks Is
also noticed. The skirt of thM costume
with a band of the plain black cloth.
Reversing the usual order of things. the
natty little coat. which is half eton and
half position is of black cloth adorned
with the checked stuff. There Is tiny
waistcoat of black and white embroidery
and rather novel extension of the back
seams over the shoulders. The orna-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15
PARIS, February /. 1908.

IhRlS, February i, IcpS
oHE more frivolous French
feminine mind is just now
much agitated by the ques-
ton of understands. Having
practically solved the theater
hat problem, it now fins itself faced by
a puzzle which, If of less general in
terest. is of no smaller individual i'm
portance, for the underskirt has always
played predominant part in woman's
toilet The Parisienne displays much
coquetry over this item of her wardrobe
The daintiness of the frills which out of
doors peek from beneath her gracefully
raised skirt rustic more ostentatiously
below her house costume was, as ii were.
the symbol Of her chicness The intro
duction of the tight-ftting skirt on the
one hand and the little trotteur jupe on
the other has placed the more luxurious
petticoat on the shelf. so to speak. Now
Dame Fashion has commanded her vo-
taries to wear maillots. What are mail
lots? Well. maillot is a more elegant
synonym for tights. 1t Is certainly true
that We are threatened with silk mail
lots and satin Knockers but neither of these
garments will ever appeal to womanly
women as substitutes for dainty petit
coats. OF course ii was inevitable that
some great change should be made in
the style and general outline of our petit
coats now that extremely tight dresses
are worn, but a great change is one
thing and a complete suppression of the
petticoat is quite another. 1t is posi-
lively certain. though. that ordinary pet
ticoats will he given entire rest during
the coming season, for TX will not bA pos
sible to wear them with the clnging
skirts. But. then. / do earnestly hope
that all women of good taste will protest
against the Introduction of maillots
unless for very exceptional occasions.
That their vOgsr. will be a Short-lived one
j base on the fact that not one woman in
hundred can gracefully carry a gown
unsupported by a petticoat. \ few act
resses may succeed in doing this because
they are trained to walk. but just pic
ture the ordinary woman in an ultra
skirt withoAt petticoat!
Corset Worn Over the Petticoat.
AS a concession to conservative tastes
famous authority on dress has suggested
that the corset in future should be worn
over the petticoat-in fact. outside all
the undergarments. This. again, Is an
idea that will not find favor with women
VINO understand the possibilities of the
straight front corset and who really need
its assistance. If the corset is to be Worn
over the petticOats. there must of course.
be buttonholes made i'm the undergar-
ments through which the carriers could
be slipped. for if the straight front cor
set is to be OF any use at all the gar
ters must be attached to IL. But even
with these discreetly arranged button
holes the corset outside plan. would not
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15
Giving.

If you have something to give you
will be wanted. And this is true not of
money alone One who sees the humor-
Gus side and can help others to see it
brings his welcome with him. A SYM
pathetic nature. responding readily to
every appeal, rejoicing. in the joy of
brings bounty with 1t. Only the self
engrossed have nothing to give away,
says Home Chat.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15
Some Decided Novelties From Partisan Sources.

loosely waved and caught over to the
left side. Center parting is also revived:
indeed anything that gets one away from
the misplaced eruption of Irrelevant curls
is welcome.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15

next in the ateliers of modern dress
makers and milliners: in fact. the lat
ter are quite capable of turning the
hats back to front to produce sensa-
ton and to arrive at new mode. I'm
fortunately the tendency of spring styles
is toward old-fashioned clothes, but not in
the tailored modes to the artistic periods
of dress. A stunning suit turned out for
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15

the coming season is almost replica
of one worn by belle of a decade or
two ago. The material is serge in a russell
shade of brown, and the perfectly plain
skirt Is cut to clear the ground and is
finished at the bottom with an invisible
hem. In the back 1t fits like the ira
ditional paper on the wall. The snort,
sAlh-tight, single-breasted coat looks like
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15
SELF-TANSFERABLE EN-.
BROIDERY DESIGNS.

THIS cut is small reproduction Of an
embroidery pattern 10 by Ii inches. On
receipt of 10 cents The Star will send the
large design by mail to any address. The
pattern may be transferred to any ma
terial for embroidering by simply follow.
ing the directions given below
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15

times to dip at either side. with the front
and back comparatively short.
Styles of Decade or So Ago. @
Fashion. in wide sense, has some
what run riot Of late and seems sub
ject to no particular authority. One
never knows what is going to happen
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15

do not lend themselves too it In the least
affect this couture and thereby lose their
chief chance of attractiveness.
-.ill, much as was said for the now
uespiseI f:.srcel wave, it was a fashion
with many points of merits compared
with the Grecian knot. Although classic
Embarrassing does not suit the American
womans head or her clothes. the fashion
is gaining recruits by the hundreds, and
there is evidence on all sides that even
the woman Of good taste will fall vic
time to it's allurements and be led into
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15

CENTRIC hairdressing is one Of
IL the fads of the moment and the
Grecian Pug is certainly the most
eccentric and trying of the new
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-15

more frivolous French
feminine mind is just now
much agitated by the ques-
III ton of understands. Having
nractical1y solved the theater