The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1908-04-19

For morning wear the absolutely
plain or tucked shoTtwaist Of linen.
madras and lawn, worn with nigh en-
broidered collars, is the most popular
style for women of good taste. For
fine wear waists of pongee, shantung
or any of the rough silks make eX-
cellent waists for the tailored suits.
When little more dressy appearance
is wished for the soft lace jabOt is
used as a dainty accessory
Coats are Shortening.
Coats are shortening in length as
the weather grows warmer. twenty
four or thirty-two inches being the
most used. The semi-htted coat that
comes just to the hips. or little be-
low, IS still much liked. ~r+owav
coat that combines the features of the
severely tailored and the dressy coat
is made with a piqUe waiStcoat or
vestee and buttons on the breast with
but one bottom and then slopes grace
fully away from the front, showing
the vest beneath. These vests are
sometimes elaborate affairs of bro
cade or of cretonne embroidered.
When the suit is made with bordered
goods the bordering is used as a vest
band just inside the opening and often
gives the necessary bit OF color need
ed to an otherwise sombre suit.
One might suppose that the EtOns
after their long popularity would be
rather pasSe, but nothing is more
liked by some women and many of the
new models are shown with the cut
away effect while a few have long
tails in the old swallow-tail effect.
Many of the new silks are made up
in this style. The lingerie waist is
most appropriate TO wear with these
waiStcodtS which may have more or
less trimming of lace or braid or
embroidery.
Although the advices from abroad
say the jumper dresses are out OF
style, there is no dress so popular on
this side of the water. Having over
come it's crudities of the past and its
beginning years, it has become a thing
of beauty and no material is too
beautiful or too plain to be used in
its construction. It is the compro-
mise between the shirtwaist suit and
the full costume, and is far more
dressy thaH-the single skirt and shirt
waist of a contrasting material and
color. The Japanese armholes will
be worn through the summer: their
only fault was their Unhandiness I'M
der coat, but in the summer they
are neat and practical.
Semi-Princess.
The semi-princess dress, which is
only a skirt and waist joined tOgeth-
er, is going to be a favorite mode for
the coming season. 1t is easy to take
a separate jumper waist and combine
It with a plated skirt. Join the two
and have a semi-princess dress. A
new feature of the jumper waist is
the Introduction of the ladder sleeve
which is composd of tucks which ex-
tend from the shoulder to the elbow
or a little above For the street the
Jumper dress is made of vol or chif-
fOn panama or taffta. For the house
they are seen in light colors i'll BATS
to, yelling pOngee and other silks over
lingerie waists Or'guimpeS.
In cOloTs for the tailored suit. ii is
probable that al the peculiar shades
Of taupe. a sort Of brown grey. viii
be much used. The stone and Lon
don smoke and tobacco browns will
be softened into pearl greys and
modes and biscuit shades. the last of
these in many variations is TO be
seen in a shadow stripes, checks and
with contrasting stripe Of two other
pastel shades that blend into each
other impereeptibly. For utility wear
the navy blue is popular; a more
fashionable shade YET in blue is the
Copenhagen and cadet blues. There
ar other blues that verge almost On
plum and volt or a grey tinge, bat
cannot say that - - beautiful from
the artistic side and il is not general
" becoming. The dull or deeper
shades of brown are the more beauti-
full and by far the most servIceable.
In the pongees and rajahs and shan
lungs the browns are particularly
rich and make up with good results
A new material that has found
great favor on the other side Of the