The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1908-02-13

At the meeting OF the Sewing Circle
Miss Joscelyn announced her inten-
tion of familiarizing her listeners with
certain technical expressions which
occur In the printed directions on the
shirtwaist patterns.
Until you understand their full sig
nificance." she said, you cannot hope
to handle patterns with justice. either
to them or to yourselves. The distinc.
tion. for example, between making
tucks by 'creasing, as the pattern ex-
presses II, from one perforation to
another by sewing together at the
lines of perforations,' and by 'creasing
at the lines Of perforation, may seem
inappreciable. may even be passed by
unnoticed; but this distinction Is by
no means negligible quality. as you
shall see when we take up our second
set Of diagrams.
The exact meaning of each OF these
phrases l have quoted Is of the utmost
Importance. since success or failure
when using patterns, depends upon
obedience to even trivial details In
their directions"
The unmistakable expression OF as
tonishment upon the faces before her,
and Of enlightenment as they mentally
recalled the results OF past expert
ences with patterns satisfied class and
teacher alike OF the need for instruc.
tion in this particular.
Figure l." continued Miss Joscelyn,
shows you the arrangement of perfor-
ations as they appear In the patterns
which direct you to crease the tuck
from one perforation to another IL
ing and Of sewing these tucks In the
material.
Figure depicts the perforations
occurring in pairs, as Is required when
the directions given state that the
tucks must be sewn together at the
line of perforations.' This shows the
edge OF tuck folded or creased so
that the perforations are brought to-
gether. The dotted line represents
the stitching along the line of perfor.
ations. These perforations must be
accurately marked upon the material
with tailors chalk, red or white, as the
color of the goods may require.
Figure shows us third method
of making tucks. technically called
creasing at lines OF perforations.
Compare this diagram with No. 2. and
you will see clearly the very different
results Of sewing together at perfora-
TONS and Of sewing at a given meas.
urement.
Figure 4 indicates the method OF
laying box-plait in exact accordance
with pattern directions. The plalt Is
first creased so as to be sewn to.
gether Of the perforations as In Fig.
ure 2; 1t is then pressed open In such
a manner that its row of stitches
comes exactly under the middle Of the
plat. In certain kinds of material the
pressing must be done with the fiat.
iron; in others, drawing the thumb.
nail. or the rounded handle of the
scissors smartly along the edges of the
plat. answers the purpose.
ITO insure straight edges. it may
be necessary, before creasing them, to
baste the stitching to the central line
OF the plat.
'In figure 5, we are carried step
further. Here we see how to make a
graduated tuck creased at the single
perforations and sewn together at the
double ones. At the right of the dia-
gram these perforations are shown as
they appear In the pattern. arranged In
sets OF single and double In oblique
lines and at regularly graded dis
tances At the left OF the diagram you
see two completed graduated tucks.
tapering correctly. and accurate In
their alignment. The third tuck is
shown in the process OF making,
creased at the line OF single perfora-
tions, as the pattern directs, and being
sewn through the double ones.
"Tuck-shirring. as You know. is very
pretty in soft materials. but only when
well done Figure 6 illustrates the
correct method OF makiny tuck-shir
rings. and also their correct arrange
ment when finished. The shirred tucks
are first creased like ordinary tucks
and then sewn with small running