davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1908-05-31

Upon the length and the width of the
summer girls waist depends the height
and the shape of her belt. II she be of
the slender, willowy type, she may safely
essay the empire girdle, which so nearly
attains the proportions of the French
peasants corselet. Although picturesque,
this style of waistgear is not especially
comfortable as usually 1t must be shaped
as well as kept in position by means OF
a multiboned lining which renders 1t un-
yielding as a new corset. Girdles OF this
class are worn chiefly with net and lace
evening frocks and sometimes afford the
necessary color relief to an all-white or
all-black toilette, for 1t is by such ac-
cessories that many a girl diversihes a
slender stock of party gowns. Stunning
girdles of empire character may be
evolved from pompadour, Dresden and
white brocaded sash ribbons of such firm
texture that a boned lining is not abso-
lutely necessary If the back buckle or
gold, silver or mother-of-pearl be sufi-
ciently long and wide to afford the neces-
sary support at that point. Through this
back section the deeply side-plaited sash
ribbon is smoothly run. its edges being
luoicASu at tllLSA SAti0L4lbJ VA hhS pbSN4S
to form duplicate points at the back CEN
tire. From there the plaits slope grad
uany for quarter the ribbons length,
so that beneath the arms they measure
scarce two inches, broadening gradually
toward the front and more ornate por
tion Of the buckle set. Plain taffeta with
figured satin makes a most effective
girdle, the silk being stitched ON to both
edges in inch-wide bands. Usually such
trimming is of a shade matching the
Drocade's ground, but If the girdle Is to
Do worn with frock of sufficient color
character TO support the contrast black
silk banding will look immensely chic,
especially II accompanied by brilliant Jet
,uckles.
Jet, gold and silver paillettes ere won
terful brighteners Of black evening
Los Angeles herald., 1908-05-31

and a third type is quite plain save for
a small plait over either shoulder TO
hide the arm size seam.
Guimpe Fabrics.
Almost any summer gown will prove
more serviceable IL provided with de-
tachable guimpe. Those OF embroidery
or tucked batiste and valenciennes are
the more practical, as they may be 30
satisfactorily laundered. A dainty guimpe
and stock may be evolved from dotted
Swiss and beading entire deux in vertical
lines, or one of bold openwork muslin
may be broken with narrow lace inser-
tion. Mousseline will withstand any
amount Of washing and cleaning and the
finely tucked nets seem not to hold the
dust at all and usually require to be
merely pressed.
Combing sacques and Ktmonos.
One piece combing sacques of allover
embroidery, dotted Swiss or lawn have
sleeves produced by the two parts over
the arm being caught together and tied
with pretty ribbon. A more elaborate
short negligee has its accordeon-plaited
lawn fronts and back attached to o
square, round or pointed yoke of en-
brodery or lace Colored lawn kimonos
have band embroidery borders and shaped
backs, with tucks or box plaits stitched
to THE waist or falling loose from the
shoulders The double handkerchief ell
bow sleeves are embroidery band-hnished,
and a ribbon sash confines the fulness at
the waist, this adding to the garments
trimness. With them, as well as with
linen, pique and duck walking skirts, are
worn the sheath, hip-ftting umbrella
white cotton petticoats trimmed with em-
broidered muslin founcings.
Lingerie Accessorfes.
With the simpler princesse and one
piece lingerie frocks are worn fascinating
bebe hats of heavy embroidered linen.
Their frilly scalloped brims are supple
mented with lace-edged accordeon-plaited
net ruches and big taffeta bows set
against the square crowns lend charm
ing note of color TO the costume. With
the more elaborate confections of all
overs and founcings, the point d'esprit
Charlotte Corday Is considered eminently
suitable Taffeta and white spun silk
mousquetaire gloves to accompany lin
gerie short sleeves are sometimes elab-
orately embroidered In delicate colors
from wrist to elbow. and even the Isle
stockings revealed by the low-cut canvas
and suede oxfords display the same craze
for the decorative.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-05-31

the arm size, thus affording the effect OF
additional slenderness at the waist line,
where womankind is prone to take on
flesh with advancing years.
Extreme Train Types.
Lingerie gowns of the more elaborate
description, such as those intended for
garden parties and midsummer weddings,
have exceedingly long trains. These are
of two distinct types. One Is the perfect
point which begins to narrow where 1t
touches the ground, and is precisely like
those in vogue in France at about the
time Columbus discovered America. The
other, and more graceful train is narrow
throughout the entire length. but cut off
square at the end. On both there must be
set a narrow dust ruffie, not only as
protection from direct contact with the
CARPET but to lend them support in addi-
ton to that afforded by the trained silk
pettcoat worn beneath the gown.
N Tunic Drapery Embroideries.
In the batiste pattern robes with en-
broldery borders the tunic effect is read
ily developed The skirt is gored and
trained precisely as though Of voile or
any other semitransparency, and upon II
is draped the bordered fabric, which
may form a long left to right line from
waist to feet, or be caught up at what
ever angle most becomes the individual
figure. Robes of this character are to
be found in all the delicate ttnts of
blue, rose, green and heliotrope, with
white or self-colored embroidery, as we'll
as In all white and all black. At the
moment one-tone lingerie gowns are
deemed immensely smart by ultradress-
ers.
Embroidery Lace Combinations.
In the embroidery lace combinations are
some stunning effects showing the bold
openwork designs forming panels, which
join to make the high girdle of the one
piece frock. These panels separate regu-
larly over an ankle-length skirt Of Valen-
ciennes lace bands entire deux with ba-
Los Angeles herald., 1908-05-31

gowns. They may be sewn upon satn
of any hue or upon gold or silver cloth
fitted smoothly over a boned lining and
fastening with blind hooks and eyes be-
meath the arm.
Hungarian leather, soft and fine as kid.
is stamped in quaint designs and fash
ioned into belts of various widths. from
the Empire dimensions to the inch-wide
strings, which denote the waistline of the
girl who all too quickly assimilates her
food. These leather girdles are worn
chiefly with mohair, serge and pongee
walking suits, as they come principally
in the fashionable tan and taupe shades.
They are of one tone, their buckles being
leather covered or of selfcolored metal.
The Oriental fad has brought into prom
inence gorgeous girdles that are a
kaleidoscope of coloring picked out with
dull gold and rusty silver. These come
in strips of from two to eight inches in
width, to be Joined by cut steel buckles
or metals set barbarically with imitation
emeralds sapphires, diamonds, garnets,
rubles. green stone and turquoise. or the
Oriental class also are the nailhead
studded feathers ornamented with medal
lions Of quaint design done in colored
beading and outlined with tinsel threads,
forming a series of arabesques. Among
girdles of this character is one of rusty
silver webbing beaded forally in natural
colors and clasping with a dull silver
buckle
Glace and suede kid belts Of every con-
ceivable shade are worn. When not of
tint to match the tailored suit they are
of bright green, blue or rose, for the
black utility girdle seems to have tenn
porartly passed out OF use and the white
one to be reserved chiefly for linen and
duck costumes. Kid belts are both straight
and shaped, but rarely markedly wide.
Their edges are heavily stitched and one
end is sharply pointed and run through
a fiat buckle, which admits OF its being
let out or tightened at will.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-05-31

tiste, and terminate in points at the top
of a similarly treated shaped and scant
founce While the blouse of this frock
is wholly of batiste and lace, its chief
feature is the broad band of embroidery,
Stimulating a Japanese upper sleeve. An
other gown of this character that is en-
pire in the back, has the upper portion
of the skirt paneled with lace festoon
insertions and an embroidered founce
set on about two deep tucks and a hem
of equal width.
Pin Tuck Treatments.
Pin tucking is cleverly employed in lin
gerie gowns, though it is no longer made
prominent. Often the fulness of the
founees is taken up by clusters of from
six TO eight pin tucks stitched down
tightly to within a short distance of the
embroidery, and between the clusters are
set lace Van Dykes, bowknots or medal
lions. This treatment breaks the length
of the skirt without making it too bout
FAINT Where no side panels are used in
the development of a princesse gown,
the waist may be outlined, as we'll as
fitted, by means Of pin-tucking, begin
ming Just below the bust and running YER
tically over the hips. This perfectly de-
fines the figure and accentuates the slen-
der, hipless style which is so marked
this year.
Scant F1ouncings.
Although the embroidered founce Of
every width is considered immensely chic,
1t Is never very full. To be artistic 1t
should merge into the skirt rather than
extend from it, and consequently its top
and lower edge require very careful treat
ment Sometimes it is vertically pin
tucked into a band of lace set upon the
pin-tucked edge of the skirt proper, and
at the bottom its scallops or points over
lap batiste band which also forms the
skirts hem and incidentally saves the
embroidery from wear and tear.
AIIover Embroideries for FrOcks.
English eyelet and Madeira allover
Los Angeles herald., 1908-05-31

The idea of reproducing in lingerie ma
terials the same graceful, clinging lines
which distinguished soft silk, satin and
cloth costumes, would have been scofPed
at as an impossibiity a few years ago
by both dressmaker and mondanes Yet
as all snrtorial observers realize. the ad-
vance of the lingerie gown from its
humble position of indoor or country
morning frock to its present important
place in the fashionable feminine ward
robe has been phenomenal. Combinations
of embroidery and batiste not only per-
fectly carry out the charmingly simple
models designed especially for the sweet
girl graduate" but likewise the Grecian
and Empire effects beloved by modish
matrons anxious to accentuate the ma
tured beauty Of figure and bearing.
Embroidery Bands n Boon.
There is no denying the fact that the
craze for long lines Is being somewhat
overdone by many thin women, who en-
plastic their slenderness to the verge
of attenuation, but TO the oyerplump
the vogue is a boom Any type of lin
gerie costume may have long lines If the
trimming be correctly arranged upon the
skirt and the bodice, and nowhere Is this
fact better emphasized than in the one
piece costumes of Empire and bebe prin-
cesse design. This is because the EN-
broidery- bands may extend unbroken
from shoulders to skirt hem at front and
back In the form of panels, so wide and
distinct of pattern are some of the new
needework designs. Or the panels may
extend up the side of the skirt and into
Los Angeles herald., 1908-05-31

Is inconvenient to have slips, frocks OF
material not too sheer may be tackled over
a carefully whaleboned lawn girde of ten
or twelve-inch depth. finished with valen-
ciennes edging at top and bottom In order
to avoid glimpse Of hard lines showing
through the frock. This sort of under
girdle will hold the loose blouse and skirt
in place and make them ft smoothly about
the waist and hips.
White and Green.
Crisp as fresh lettuce look the lingerie
gowns of sheerest batiste, embroidery trim
med, worn over pale green slips. These
have a delightful summery appearance sug-
gestive Of fields and brooks and cozy hooks
where pretty girls are sheltered by big
white umbrellas. But the real reason for
the undertone Of color is that 1t 50 per-
fectly defines the beauty Of the embroidery
bands, motifs and hounces. The color
note, however, may be emphasized by the
batiste hem of the skirt, by the silk
girdle If the gown be In two pieces. or
by the scarf drapery OF green battste
ornamented at the ends by inset embroid-
ery motifs. The scarf is worn low over
the shoulders and passes under the g1rdie
In front thence falling in two long ends
almost to the skirts hem, or it Is crossed
at the bust and drawn together at the
left side. so that the ends fall one above
the other.
The CoIlarIess Bodice.
The shape of the bodice neck depends
wholly upon the condition of Its owners
throat and neck. Although so many OF
the yoked lingerie gowns have high,
transparent collars, boned into points
that extend up into the hair, the collar
less blouse Is certain to become popu-
lar with the arrival of torrid weather.
The Dutch cut Is exceedingly becoming
to quite young girls, and far more modest
than the V or square, even though those
angles scarce reveal the collarbone. A
semi-low neck always seems to add I'M
rnaa surnhlx to the dressv effect of anY
Los Angeles herald., 1908-05-31

color the fabric. But II more costly
buckle than mother-of- pearl is desired,
there may be found dainty affairs of white
and pink coral, amber, onyx or jade,
which fasten blindly with small gold
plate rods.
Strangely enough, Slam sends to Amer
lea some of the handsoInest belt buckles
on the market. These may be correctly
worn with any of the utility beltings,
which include silver webbing, Hungarian
leather, glace and suede kid ribbon and
heavy linen, for they are of solid silver
in repousse workmanship and unlikely to
Los Angeles herald., 1908-05-31
DESIGNS i'm This Important Accessory of the Toilette

acquire rust. A buckle Of this character
Is SO unique and SO readily transferred
from one ribbon to another, that al
though its first coat is considerable, II Is
really valuable wardrobe asset and
practically imperishable.
Built-in- -girdles are a feature OF the
summer girls lingerie one-piece and
princesse frocks. They are of embroid-
cred muslin bands when Joining the sep
arately mado blouse and skirt Of the
simpler type and OF galloon embroidery
or lace motifs In the case of the short
waisted bebe princesse frock.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-05-31
The Summer Girl and Her Belts Charming Desig

waistline. They cross beneath the arms,
where a slender effect is desirable, but
are wide apart at the back. where they
terminate severally, fastening under tiny
bows. Ombre ribbons are also popular
beltings, one of the favorite color schemes
being the green series which, of course,
includes emerald but all the geranlums
and blues are used, and brown, with
dark outer edging. shading to maize, Is
deemed ultra smart.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-05-31

Black and gold betting ribbons In
Grecian design look wonderfully smart
with runabout suits and tailored shirt
waists, and may be fastened with or with
out elaborate buckles of jet or metal.
With soft silk, voile and yelling afternoon
costumes, black and brilliantly colored
velvet ribbon girdles are correct. These
are formed of three wide strands drawn
into a deep point at the front of the
bodice and extending we'll below the
Los Angeles herald., 1908-05-31

Launderable belts of heavy linen are
scalloped and pointed, edged and orna-
mented through the center with more or
less elaborate floral designs They are
of the crush order and invariably OF pure
white, casping with trunk or clasp, oval
or square mother-of-pearl buckles, which
need not be detached when the belt Is
sent to the laundry. 1t is never advisable
to use a metal buckle on a linen belt, as
it is liable to rust and permanently dis
Los Angeles herald., 1908-05-31
The Varied Uses of En-

The Varied Uses of En-
broideries = Their Best
Use In Simple But Eff
fective Designs The
Princesse is a General
Favorite = Embroidery
Goats Smart Access
sories to Fashionable
Wardrobes = Fascina-
ting Negligees.
Iron County register. [volume] (Ironton, Iron County, Mo.) 1867-1965, 1908-12-03
TREASURE PROTECTED BY MUD.
Effort to Be Made to Reach Stored
Riches in India.

A good story of hidden treasure
comes from India on the authority of
the late tutor to the heir apparent of
Bhopal.
In the hills of Amarkantak, in the
central provinces, close to the sources
Of the Narbada and the Son, there
stands an old deserted fort called Ran
Bakalli, wherein, so tradition says, are
collected vast stores of treasure and
jewels formerly the property of the
Hindu rajahs Of the country, but for
ages no one has been able to gain ac-
cess to the fort because it is sur
rounded by miles of impossible mud
The late Sir Richard Temple when
lieutenant governor of Bengal tried to
reach it, but his elephant stuck deep
in the mire and he was forced to aban-
don the quest. 1t is now suggested
that syndicate should be formed to
exploit this treasure house by means
of balloons, and Calcutta capitalist
has promised a large subscription to-
ward the enterprise.
The question which puzzles most
people is how this ocean of mud ever
came to invest the fort. An effort
will be made to enlist the cooperation
of the maharajah of Rewa, the ruler
of the district, who is said to be an en-
lightened prince, though how it comes
that he has not already taken steps
to solve the mystery is not stated.
Iron County register. [volume] (Ironton, Iron County, Mo.) 1867-1965, 1908-12-03
A Dangerous Roll.

H. Engels, an Oakland, Cal, boiler
maker, met with an experience which
nearly cost him his life, while at work
inside a 2S-inch water pipe. The line
of pipe ran along steep hillside and
was held in position by wooden sup
ports. While Engel was riveting two
sections together the supports gave
way and the section in which he was
working started down the hill at a ter
rife speed. 1t rolled several hundred
feet and finally dropped into ditch in
which stream of water was running
Engels' companion supposed, of course,
that he had been killed, but rushed to
the ditch. The in-piped man was
taken out alive, but seriously cut and
bruised and almost drowned.-Detroit
News-Tribune.
Iron County register. [volume] (Ironton, Iron County, Mo.) 1867-1965, 1908-12-03
sHREw0 SCHEME OF MOTHER.
No Roseate Postcard Without Its
Thorn of Suggestion.

Harolds mother-well call him
Harold-went abroad a month ago,
leaving Harold under the somewhat
unsubstantial control of his elder sis
ters.
In spite of the itemized directions
with which even unto the moment of
final leavetaking she had not ceased
to lombard him, Harold's mother
was far from sure that her efforts
would have any lasting effect.
Her voyage was more or less dis
turbed by these doubts, but before she
landed on the other side she had de-
termined on a course of action. Like
all small boys, Harold is most covet-
Gus of picture postcards and had
looked forward to harvest from his
mothers trip.
He got it.
Every day she sent at least one
card. And, whatever else it bore in
the way of inscription, there was not
one which failed of this introduction:
Just as soon as you get this go and
brush your teeth"
Iron County register. [volume] (Ironton, Iron County, Mo.) 1867-1965, 1908-12-03
INTO sERE AND YELLOW LEAF.
Eighteenth Century Women Seem to
Have Willingly Settled Down.

In an English novel of the eigh-
teenth century the author thus refers
to a certain woman: "She had reached
the age of 80, an age beyond which no
woman can hope either to feel or In
spire deep affection" In one of
George Meredith's early novels he re-
fers to a character as a woman "on
the criminal side of 30' A Boston
woman in the last century, after reach
ing the age of 80, put on, over her
abundant natural hair, false front
and cap. These were the outward
and visible signs Of the matronly ma
turity she had reached She gave up
at the same time all the gayer forms
of social intercourse. She confined
herself thereafter to the mild and
elderly variety. She had come out"
into Boston society at Is. After two
years of social gayeties she had mtI-
ried At 80 she was the mother of
eight children. She had lived the ac-
tive part of her life. In accordance
with the conventions of her time she
settled down to a life of vegetating
domesticity. She was not an excep-
ton. She was the normal woman of
her day, registering its customs just
as a good thermometer registers the
temperature.-Appleton's Magazine.
Iron County register. [volume] (Ironton, Iron County, Mo.) 1867-1965, 1908-12-03
Truly Rustic BRIDGE.

A rustic bridge at Beach Haven, Ga.
contains Sc kinds of wood and vines
grown on the 50 acres of Beach Haven
park. Following is list of the woods
and vines: Short-leaf pine, long-leaf
pine, post oak, white oak, Spanish oak
water oak, red oak, poplar, sweet gum
black gum, red haw, black haw, red
bud, prickly ash, chinquapin, wild
plum, persimmon, cedar, wild sloe
wahoo, sumac, red elm, pig hickory
scalybark hickory, hook or sugar berry
willow, china, black elder, crab ap
pie, wild mulberry, wild cherry, dog
wood, sourwood winter whortleberry
black locust, sassafras, cottonwood
buckeye, laurel, beech, holly, ash, iron
wood, birch, magnolia, sycamore, wal
nut, sweet bay, evergreen, spruce
Vines-Grape, muscadine, bellhower
rattan, bamboo.
Iron County register. [volume] (Ironton, Iron County, Mo.) 1867-1965, 1908-12-03
Sale of Fine Horses at Iron
Mountain.
(From The Pennington News,


What will be, beyond any ques-
ton, one of the greatest sales OF
fine bred trotting stock ever held
in this State will be that to be held
at Iron Mountain on Tuesday,
December %, commencing at
twelve o'clock noon. This sale
will be given by w. H. Smelling
er,the proprietor of the great IRON
Mountain stock farm. This i'm
mense tract of land, comprising
over ten thousand acres, contains
not only the site of the world
famed Iron Mountain, but also the
beautiful large lake and great pas
lures of blue grass.
Mr.. Smollinger bought the en-
tire property four years ago and
at once converted it into gigan-
tic stock farm for the raising of
thoroughbred racing stock. The
abundance of pure water and the
luxuriance with which blue grass
grew on the land impressed him
with the peculiar fitness of this
place for a great stock ranch.
His stables are headed by some
of the greatest trotters in the
whole country, and some of them
have won for him numerous stakes
of $4,000 and $4,000. Mr.. Smol-
linger has been raising racing
stock for a good many years and
is one of the best posted men in
the country on the merits of q
racing animal. He is at present
secretary of the Great Western
Circuit, which is the owner of
twelve one-mile tracks. He is all
so secretary of the Galesburg
I'LL. race track.
Stockmen from far and near
should attend this great sale.
See ad. Of ssme in another coll
umn and write Mr.. Smollinger at
once for a catalogue giving de-
scription and complete pedigree
Of each animal to be sold.
Iron County register. [volume] (Ironton, Iron County, Mo.) 1867-1965, 1908-12-03
His Vacation Method.

Miss Lillian b. Hill, the writer of
humorous advertisements, told a mum
Der of Duluth jewelers., at a recent
jewelers. banquet, good way to get
off for vacation without being missed
from business.
During the last Easter holidays"
she said, Il met jeweler at a seaside
hotel
why, I thought you were such d
busy man. | said. How do you man
age your affairs here at the shore?'
90 said he, I am just keeping my
advertisements out Of the papers until
my return, and so, you see, there are
no affairs to manage"
Iron County register. [volume] (Ironton, Iron County, Mo.) 1867-1965, 1908-12-03

What becomes of all the cid but
tons? Is there a market for them?
There is no accounting for pins, need.
les or hooks and eyes; but buttons are
far more expensive. | know a young
matron who has more than 1000 but.
tons of all sizes and styles and ma
terials, but she will never sew one on
a child's garment. Il could never think
of using a secondhand button!" she
says, putting her little foot down.
When she wants a button she sends
to the shop for a card of new ones.
"Giyo the old ones to Johnny and let
him sell them," she said to her hus.
band; and the poor man has been try.
ing for month to find purchaser for
Johnny's stock.