Eagle River review. [volume] (Eagle River, Wis.) 1890-1927, 1908-06-26
FEW KNOW DIAMONDS GIRDLE
FROM IT'S PAVILION, OR DIFFER
ENT STYLES OF CUTTING.
C0NN0ISSEURS ARE VERY FEW
Numerous Misapprehensions Prevail
Among Those Who Consider Them
selves Well Posted.
SUGGESTIONS TO PURCHASERS

SAo NAu hiioH uIOlS. L u De easy IN nv
mind, and so would they.
That's not saying that all dealers or
all customers would be. There are pIen-
ty of the former who have taken adyan-
tage OF the almost absolute ignorance of
the average person ON the subject of
gems.
You needn't ask me what things peo-
pie don't know. l can tell you in about
three words, though, what they do know,
Ihey know that rubies are red and sap
phires blue, and few half truths of that
Sort
The jeweler then proceeded to tell
some OF the things which are as a sealed
book to his customers. He began with
the form of a cut stone.
Know Little of Cutting.
He declared that most persons do not
really know one style of cutting from
another. They have a vague idea that
rose diamonds are thin, but that's about
as far as their technical knowledge goes
on that line
The brilliant is the finest form of cut
ting. 1t is not always exactly the same,
but all the forms of it have certain main
features in common.
The front or top of a brilliant consists
of an eight-sided facet, called the table,
which is surrounded by thirty-tWo small
err facets. These reach to what is known
as the girdle, the thin edge separating
the upper part, called the crown or the
bizet, of the stone from the lower part,
Or pavilion.
The pavilion has twenty-four facets
terminating in a small fiat facet called
the culet. This makes tifty-eight facets,
counting the table and the culet Some
times there are added eight extra facets
around the culet.
Loft
that a stone should be cut with a good
deal of what is termed spread. 1t used
to be thought that a stone should have
onethird above the girdle and two-thirds
below. Now the best are cut with less
than a third above and the change
makes for greater brilliancy.
What a Good Stone Shows.
A properly proportional stone will
show as much light and color in the very
center, under the table, as at the edge
where it is cut thin to receive the light.
If d diamond is too deep it has a dead
center, a black well without light or
color. If it is too shallow it has CLASSY
look and is technically known as fish
eye.
Many persons buy these fish eyes be-
cause the stone looks as if it were larger
than it really is. As a matter of fact
their lack of brilliancy is so much more
conspicuous than any detail of size that
a fishy stone is a bad bargain at almost
any price. AS for the thick stones.
called lumpy by dealers, person simply
pays for that much extra weight and
after all gets a dead centred stone.
The American cut brilliant has the
same number of facets as the regular
brilliant. ffty-eight; but the proper
tions are different. The twentieth cen
fury is a comparatively new form OF
the brilliant cut.
At first it had lightweight facets, and
instead of having the table it was car
ried to a low point in the center. Later
it was cut with eighty facets, the CEN
trail ones being almost fiat Opinions
vary as to this cutting, but 1t is PROB
ably best suited to shallow stones, whose
defects it would help to conceal.
Cut Changes Gems Greatly.
The rose cut is used only for thin
stones. 1t is circular; the front is covered
with triangular facets and the back is
quite fiat.
The Dutch rose has twenty-four facets,
the Brabant rose tWenty-four, twelve OF
six facets, the rose recoupe mas tnlrIy7slA'
the marquise and the pend0loque nave
twenty-four each, and the double rose
has tWenty-fOur above and instead OF a
fat back twenty-four below.
Briolettes are pear shaped or, oval
stones covered with triangular racers.
They are generally drilled through the
narrow end so that they may be worn
as pendants.
Indian cut is a clumsy form in which
most stones from that country reach
Europe They are cut by the natives WIN
the sole idea of retaining as mucn WelgnI
as POSSIBLE without regard to the bril-
lance secured. They always have to be
recut for Europe and Amer at FOO Thin
Colored stones if they are cur TOO tnln
are weak or black centered. Color can be
distributed only by cutting the stone full
and deeD. though of course il 1t is very
dark # must not be made too thick
Stem out is the form in which emer-
aids are almost always cut. II IS nearly
Sonare or oblong, and generally has
1 Ipu". fable with straight facets around
if parallel to the edges of the stone.
I'm cabochon cutting has rounded
front and flat back. This is the form
for ri turn1Ioises, catseyes, opals and other
onaoue stones, but it is sometimes useu
also for the transparent gems a car
buncle is simply a garnet CUT eli e"00
' Diamond Lore of Experts.
Diamonds are grouped under dl1er S15
names according to thelr G IIr pro1ii.
nine diamonds were originally bra L+
T 1ian stones from the old digglngs, bu5
IT, - e the term now applied to most olu
emf diamonds of good color. :; +ho
Jagers, pronounced 1aage Stones IS TT t
traoe t frnm the fact that the Jagersc
f fomei f mine Pre- Produced great many of
these blush diamonds. 4os ca
Rivers are the purest white Stones sho s ;v sp
o,1Iad because the diggings on the h ~ 81
yaa Yielded sto this 5yPe wet d Ii
~ than those from dry. "a Ton
N to sTs n fGns up eF Ks pu snS ah 5a
f and arades become more and more a oft
e eoior si in Shades Of yellow brown anu
green. ,.t, beve the faintest
n res Of fSe eow %E called ed s bea G 6yTa
Ss TSss a ns SsRsssd 7n Hs@5s5 aa
ter HI'ackie is the name given tiir Ns u,ts
MdeA suitable for rose cutting. st as
moh notber name for thin. fiat cr y small
s Melee IS i meange for damo aad tba 05
@aeG chips esr pse xhe a t tax y
tnies-lo.e from larger stone. nL;a