davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-27

win have It's usual innings later n thu
season, for many New York women are
insisting upon having the French models
copied Ia the plain broadcloths.
These French models. however, are
chiefly In the rougher fabrics or In certain
materials of diagonal effect and glossy
surface associated with a R%uppleness as
great as That Of the Observation-Disclosures
which the tailors describe as having a
yicuna finish. Diagonal weaves are prom
inent In all lines of suitings. and the wide
vale woollens which often have almost
the effect of a diagonal cord are much
used.
Drecoil has made up several Of his
best street suits In q coarse though very
supple stuff which resembles a rough
surface canvas, This gives an effect OF
roughness without any fuzsiness and the
material drapes beautifully.
A model In dark navy blue. with prin-
cesse skirt and coat out away squarely
lust below the bust TO show . short black
satin waistooat. ID u Of the most popu-
lar models from this maker. The coat
falls straight at each side Of the front and
has hardly any curve In the back.
IL Ia i~ntricately braided In black SOU
taohe on the fronts In epaulettes and In
Inc back at the short waist line. where q
vide hand of Iustrous black braid In run
through the soutache design 40 through
eyelets, giving o girdie eject. though the
band does not In any way copfine the flow
of the coat lines.
The coat pictured tn one Of tho sketches
ID O good model for one OF these modish
braided cost and lonS shirt costumes. and
though s~xoeedingly straight might b
successfully worn by many figures which
could not carry OF q outaway shsot.
The three-qusrter sleeve 10 used upon
eome of the dressier imported streeA
costumes, but the long sleeve s usually
prsferred and this 10 oct IN ut the shoulder
WITH lea and LEES fumes, often being lot
In quite smoothly. On epaulctte trimming
Of some kind giving the long shoulder
line. >
The Directoire collar ID much In evk
denoe. a. ara the largo Dirsotoirs revers,
but on the other hand scores OF the hand.
some models = oollaxless or fnished
with come small type OF collar that haS
no suggestion Of the Directoire. The
-oollariess coat lends itself readily 10 the
close high collars and ruohes which IN
net, mousseline do sole. fur. velvet DO
are to be generally worn; and someof the
French coats designed without collars
have neck ruches or collars q n guito which
may be worn with tho coat or not az
preferred. .
Black satin is introduced upon tailored
costumes Of all oolors and either blaoh
satin or vel f-color satin enters into the
trimming scheme Of q vast majority OF
the BOAT and skirt suits. Newer and per.
haps smarter than the plain satin. how-
ever, IL a certain faille or ottoman-the
tailors call it by both names-which has
q high satin lustre and o very broad
heavy cord. yet despite this cord Is OF
great softness and light In weight.
This material Is immensely effective
in reve rs. pocket flaps. cuffs, TO-. and is
used also for button covering; but so far
the material seems to be exclusive with
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-27

and ruin all that I have done. I shall 60
mad II the thing keeps up s
And the moral Of all this dissertation is
that the early bird. 10 not likely to get
the worm this fall. 1t IL a delightful
thing to have ones cold weather clothes
ready when the first cold days arrive.
but the oma who waits this fall until
the makers have mastered the new ideas
and have become used to the new ex-
~igencies of cutting and fitting will be
likely to get better results than the afore-
mentioned early bird.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-27
THE SUN. SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 2Z 1908.

which appears upon many Of the French
models IL too extreme TO be accepted
without reservations or by the feminine
majority, and unless n can AFFORD to
discard a frock after a short season Of
wear it would be most unwise to I'd
ones fall skirts made on these pronounced
lines. More ample models are turned out
even by the most authoritative French
houses, and the better part Of valor is
discretion in matters Of fashion as In
other spheres of action.
The princess skirt, sometimes called
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-27

fat back achieved by many Of the smart
skirt models 10 an absurdity and good
sense must guide one rather than a slav-
ish acceptance Of fashion extremes.
The clever tailor stretches the sides OF
his circular skirts in every way possible
to prevent the inevitable sagging. but
while he does minimize the evil 1t Is
usually necessary after two OF three
weeks Of wear to taketa circular short
skirt back to the maker and have the hem
made oven once more.
Tho excessively narrow long skirt
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-27

The Fat Brunette. hnguidly - oh,
exercised I loathe exercise.
The Blonde-Yes. Of course. but what
about tho new ooatsf
The Brunette-I suppose 90.
The Blonde-It isn't so bad. Nice thin
rubber over your hips and three miles
@ morning. You'll Just melt away,
Fat Brunette, pessimistically-No !
won't; but I've got to do something.
My corset woman says ooutil and
whalebone and string won't get me down
any further. She says there are laws
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-27

The skirt OF trotting length is a more
difficult problem than the trailing skirt,
thanks to the prevailing circular cut,
and many OF the 10 short skirts will be
hopelessfy unbecoming to the average
figure. They are glove fitting over the
hips and plain in the back. much like
the habit back Of an earlier year. Given
this plainness and a circular cut. with
any trimming used disposed in long lines,
and with no great width around the bot
tom and you have a skirt difficult to hang
ON any one and distinctly ~unbecoming
in many cases.
Luckily there are variations which
afford some relief. clever tricks Of goring,
plaits introduced skilfully on the sides
below the hips. DC. Often too a woman
will be wise in insisting upon an inverted
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-27

Empire, made with high waist line. ID stil
q feature Of many ohio coat and skirt
costumes. but II 10 Q Princes skirt with
a difference. not snugiy fitted to the waist
CURVES and rising toward tho bust X
n high close girdle. but semi-adtusted,
merely indicating the curves OF the waist
and falling loosely though smoothly
from its upper line just below the bust
to the hip curve. which 1t does not ao-
oentuate. In q word. this princess skirt
follows the prescribed silhouette lines.
To adjust such a skirt top cleveriy is
an art, but the best French tailors AVE
achieved success with 1t, and In some OF
these models this skirt top Is supported,
held In place by q lining girdle which
clasps the figure more closely and 70 at
tached to the outer skirt only around the
top. r ,
Tailored models with princess skirt and
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-27

plat back instead Of the plain habit back.
though the salesfolk are fairly sure to
discourage such independence and insist
hat every one is wearing the habit back,
A perfectly fat back line is fashionable
In conjunction with the slenderest Of hips.
but given self assertive hips the extreme
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-27
GRAY SATIN

on the hips. It's rubber. my dear; there's
nothing like rubber.
The Fat Brunette-No massage? I'm
Just rubbed to a pulp. 1t doesn't seem
10 do me a bit Of good. And Turkish
bathsl I've lived in them.
The Blonde, impressively-Rubberi-and
axerciea OF course,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-27

20 nice to get ones street suit In early
before the rush begins. meant to order
mine by the first Of September. but ! really
didn't have the time to get ready for it.
IFS 30 hard to bother about ones figure
In the country. I've brought myself
down awfully fast since l came back to
town, though.
The Slim Brunette-Haven'tyou. though!
How muchf
The Blonde-Fifteen pounds, mostly
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-27
N0qURVES, NO HIPS.
New Modes No Joke to
the P1ump Woman.
HARD FOR bRESSMAKERS TOO
Autmn Coats and Skirts Not Easy
~ to Make.

Long Armed, Ions LAmbed, Long Neeked,
straight LINED slImness h Last
Word OF NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. Of Q
First Fail Frock-The Skirt OF Trot.
ting Length an Especially Dificult
ProbIem-The Princess Skirt sun Q
Feature OF Many Chic Coat and Skirt
Costumes-Materials and Trimmings
Much Black Satin Used-The Collar.
Where. oh. where. are the hips Of yester-
Year, Where are the redundant curves
onoe upon a time listed as beautiful
The slender young women who exhibit
tho new imported models in the fash
ionable shops refuse to acknowledge
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-27

Continued on Fifh Poge.
The Athena press. [volume] (Athena, Umatilla County, Or.) 18??-1942, 1908-10-30

Two are not always company in spite
Of the proverb to that effect. On the
Western plains the sheepman goes out
with several thousand head and one
human companion. The natural result
is that the pair, forced ON one another
when they least want it, get to hating
each other. This, at least Is the the
DRY that a writer in the Philadelphia
Ledger formulates. He tells this story
which was narrated by an ex-sheep.
man:
Let me tell you of a fellow | once
rode with. We had finished supper one
night, and were rolled up in our blan-
kets. Not word had passed between
us for more than a week.
Hear that COW beller?" he asked
suddenly.
Sounds to me like a bull" said.
No answer, but the next morning |
noticed him packing up.
"Going to leave?" | asked.
YES" he replied.
"What forg"
"ToO much argument" 1"
The Athena press. [volume] (Athena, Umatilla County, Or.) 18??-1942, 1908-10-30

brightest way the date of the Tennis
Tournament. (This is desperately
important affair and as many as five
motor cars have been garaged In the
town at one and the same time during
its progress,)
told Dulcnea the date, and slanged
the style of all the local ladies In a
way that went straight to her heart.
We conversed quite amlcably.
Guthrie is almost sure to win the
Singles, of course" | remarked care
lessly.
"Is hep" said Dulclnea, apparently
neither surprised nor interested. But
where do you come in? You used to
play some sort of a game?"
80, shall enter, no doubt" | adj
mitted. but GuthrIe1l win. hear
he's come on n lot"
perhaps you will have chance In
the Mixed Doubtless" suggested Dull
cinea, inocently. "Who are you play
Ing wlthY
81 may not enter at all If l see any
really good couples" countered. "You,
for instance, If you have a strong part
ner, Let's see, it's Guthrie, isn't itT
"possibly," agreed Dulcinea.
II mean, has he asked you to play?"
| went on,
He had not. for Dulcinea was almost
disconnected, and swished her gloves at
a harmless butterfly.
"Never mind" l said, "he will"
II didn't say he hadn't" said Dull
cinea, sharply.
lit cigarette.
And II he does" she declared, In a
sudden burst Of graciousness, T-TI
play with you, II you like"
Dulcinea is never so dangerous as In
her gracious mood,
"Dulcmea," | said, kneeling on a
wasp by her side chow hard it Is to
kneel gracefully ON wasp, "Dul-
clnea-oh, hang it air.
The plash of oars fell on my ears
and started TO my feet What had
happened was only too clear. Our ab-
sence had been noticed, and relief ex-
petition was on its way, conducted by
Mrs. Maltrevor, whose stentorian tones
| could already hear,
Rather sheepishly we advanced to
the edge of the water, and as we did so
| noticed that the Saucy Jane had mere
ly drifted across the river, and was
resting serenely against the opposite
rushes, The leak was evidently not
The Athena press. [volume] (Athena, Umatilla County, Or.) 18??-1942, 1908-10-30
~o-~ooo~o0-o0
Disordered Persplration.

The perspirati0n is watery secre-
ton of certain curiously coled glands
! In the skin. 1t used to be thought that
it served a useful purpose in removing
waste matters from the system, and
there is no doubt that it does so in a
measure, but 1t cannot compare in this
respect with the secretion of the kid
neys. Indeed, it is ninety-eight and
eight-tenths parts water, and the solid
part Is chiefly chlorid of sodium, which
gives it the well-known salty taste. Its
function is to moisten the superficial
layer Of cells in the skin, and so facili-
tate their removal but it's chief use is
believed to be to regulate the tempera-
ture Of the body and prevent, by evap-
grafton, excessive and dangerous heat.
The quantity secreted depends much
upon the temperature of the air, exer-
else, and the amount of fluid drunk;
but 1t averages between thirty and forty
ounces day.
1t varies In inverse proportion to the
secretion of the kidneys. The secretion
is constant summer and winter, day and
night, but ordinarily evaporation keeps
pace with it, and it does not appear as
moisture on the skin; this is called the
insensible perspiration, while that Wis
ible as water is called the sensible per-
spiration.
1t is decreased in amount in certain
diseases, such as diabetes, in which the
kidney secretion Is enormously increas-
ed, and in ichthyosls-a dry scaly dis
ease of the skin.
Increased perspiration may be purely
nervous in origin, as seen In the beads
on the forehead of one who is embar-
rassed, or the cold sweat Of fear or
some other powerful emotion. In some
cases the increased perspiration is local
lied in the hands and feet. If this is an
expression Of general weakness, tonics
and good food may correct the condi-
tion, but usually local treatment is
called for. Immersing the palms of the
hands or the soles Of the feet in water
as hot as can be borne for about five
minutes, and then after drying busting
them with a very finely powdered boric
acid is often Of great service.
The moist hand may be kept dry by
frequent application to the palms of
saturated solution of boric acid In CO.
lOgne water.
The perspiration that occurs at night
in consumption and other diseases ac-
companied with hectic fever is often
very distressing. The quantity of water
eXuded is sometimes enormous, soaking
not only nightclothes, but the entire
bedding and mattress. If the patients
condition will permit, hot bath of four
or five minutes duration at bedtime
will sometimes prevent or lessen night
sweats. If this is not permissible,
sponging with hot vinegar and water
may be tried. A glass of milk and half
q dozen crackers taken at midnight will
also occasionally be found useful
Youths Companion.
The Athena press. [volume] (Athena, Umatilla County, Or.) 18??-1942, 1908-10-30

vention four years hence as 1t was this
year. The amoupt of money expended
by the delegates and the throng of un.
official visitors does not count for SC
much in so large a city, but many OF
the smaller cities are anxious for the
money convention brings in and the
supposedly valuable advertisement a
town gets from four or five days of po-
litical hullabaloo.
Yet there is little difference of opin
ion as to the undesirability of repeat.
ing every four years such senseless ex-
hibitions as those at Chicago and Den
yer. They waste time and money and
detract from the dignity of our poIiti-
cal system. If, Mr. Clark's plan is car
ried out the work of the conventions
can be conducted more rapidly and
with more regard for form. On the
other hand, the western towns will not
be SO eager to have them.
The Athena press. [volume] (Athena, Umatilla County, Or.) 18??-1942, 1908-10-30

A trial week of dispatching trains by
telephone from the stations of the Lack
awanna system has resulted in the adop.
tion of the phones.
The line of the Wisconsin Central road
from Ladysmith to Superior has been
completed as far as the Northern Pacific
crossing within the Superior city limits.
Several hundred thousand freight cars
may be standing idle, as the railroad
managers tearfully protest, but some Kan
sas grain dealers complain that they are
unable to get box cars enough
In the Circuit Court at Chicago Judge
Kohlsaat enjoined the issuance of trans
portation by the Chicago, indianapolis
and Louisville railway to the publishers
Of Munsey's Magazine in exchange for
advertising. He held that the contract
under which this transportation was is
sued is in violation of the Hepburn rate
law. The railroad company gave notice
of an appeal to the United States Su-
preme Court ~~
At Helena, Mont, legal representatives
of the government began suit against the
Northern Pacific Railway Company, the
Rocky Fork Coal Company and the
Northwest ern Improvement Company to
tfecover title to valuable coal lands which
It is charged were procured through mis-
representation. The lands in question
contain coal mines from which the rail-
way obtains great quantities Of coal
through its control of the subsidiary COM
panies.
Presumably due to the Industrial de-
preston of the past year, the death rate
from accidents by rail appears to be on
the decrease The Accident Bulletin Of
the Interstate Commerce Commission for
the first quarter of 1908 shows total
of 125 passengers and employees killed,
as compared with go such deaths In the
preceding quarter, and with 346 in the
one before that The latest record is the
smallest since these statistics were first
collected in 1901 During the first quar-
ter of this year the number of deaths Of
passengers and employees from all causes
was T2S, against 1902 in the preceding
quarter. In the same period the number
of casualties was 15,441, the least within
three years.
The right of shippers to combine small
quantities of freight of various ownership.
either by arrangement among themselves
or by forwarding agency, was confirmed
by the Interstate Commerce Commission
IN decision recently rendered.
The Interstate Commerce Commission
has published the final figures of the in
come of the railroads for the last fiscal
year. The total net earnings amounted
to $40. .5S9,944, which is an increase Of
S54. 900, 800. The total number Of en-
ployes on the pay roll on June 30 was
l.072.0T4, against 1,52ls355 year ago.
The Athena press. [volume] (Athena, Umatilla County, Or.) 18??-1942, 1908-10-30
The Miami and Mohegan.
~NNNNNNN~o~

The original Hoosiers-inhabitan Oh
Indiana, dwellers by the banks of the
Wabash-were the Miami Indians, who
occupied large sections of that region
long before the white man came. and
who still hold fragment Of the land
their forefathers called their own. Al
gonquin OF race, of medium stature, and
much Inferior to such Algonquin tribes
as the Delaware and Shawnee when it
came to war, the Miami held fairly
prominent place in the councils of the
nations.
Their ablest chief was Little Turtle,
who was wise in war craft and a
shreWd old leader generally. Under his
command the Miami took part in the
defeats of Harmar and st. Clair. but
did not hold fast to the confederacy Of
tribes in later years. In 1912 the
Miami did not join the British cause,
and some of their warriors even took
part with the American garrison dur
ing the siege of Chicago, but fed at
the first volley when the famous mas
sacre began.
The tribe divided about twenty years
later, part going to Kansas, and ulti-
mately to Indian territory, while the
rest remained in the ancestral home.
Those who went west now number
about 100, nearly all mixed bloods, and
mostly classed as white men in the
federal census. Those who stayed in
Indiana number 439, according to a re-
cent payroll, while only 243 of the
number had enough Indian blood to be
classified as red men in the United
States census, the rest being seven
eighths white. In all probability the
Miami never totaled more than 900
souls.
The Mohegan, a branch of the Della.
ware, and ranking specially high in the
aristocracy of that tribe, inhabited
Connecticut when the Pilgrims landed.
They became friendly with the whites,
and aided in the wars with the Pequots
and King Philip. Treated with the ut
most kindness by the people of Con-
necticut, they were given lands, mis-
sionaries, and every incentive to civil
ization.
They still remain on their farms in
Connecticut, and are officially recog-
nized as owning reservation, so far as
the State is concerned, while they are
not even mentioned in the United
States Indian reports. About 225 of
them, of whom $50 have the appear
ance of full-blood Indians, yet linger in
Connecticut, the remnants of people
that must have numbered 1900 or more
200 years ago.
The Athena press. [volume] (Athena, Umatilla County, Or.) 18??-1942, 1908-10-30
MooNLrr MEADOWS.

On these white nights, when over hill and
wood
The brooding mystery of midnight lies,
Beneath the glad eDchantment of the skies
The moonlit meadows spread their
quietude
Drenched in the deluge of effulgent light
Their dew-swept reaches, sweet with new
mown hay,
Into the hazy distance stretch away,
And lose their brightness in the folds Of
night.
The far-off hills recede beyond the plain,
And this expanse of moonlight meadow
seems
The land we may have visited in dreams,
But may not find when day returns again.
Earth's weary train of days remoter
grows,
The voice of care sounds faint, and dies
away
And all distress that waits upon the day
Fades from the memory like forgotten
woes.
Peace on the troubled earth when day is
flown!
Silence that falls across the clash of
strife
And fleeting glimpses of that higher life
That speaks in other language than our
own.
Fair moonlit meadows! Natures open
page
Which we with clouded vision vainly
trace,
Yet fail to read the meaning of its grace
Whose message is withheld from age to
age.
Youths Companion.
The Athena press. [volume] (Athena, Umatilla County, Or.) 18??-1942, 1908-10-30
A Brave Man.

Captain" said the first mate of the
good ship Caulifiower, while the storm
was at its height, ''the ship has sprung
leak, the watertight compartments
are full of water, and the vessel is go.
ing down. What shall we do?"
The gallant shippers face blanched,
but only for one-eighth of a second did
he lose his self-control.
Don't waste a moment" he replied.
Prepare at once an address thanking
me for my coolness and heroism in the
face of deadly and overwhelming peril.
Let not boat leave the ships side
until every man and woman has signed
it."-Detroit News-Tribune.