New-York tribune., 1908-03-06
THE CORNISH RIVIERA
4 Circuit Of Lands End and the
Fishing Villages.
Peuzance. February n

nd
rnrdon This makes it health resort for in
xaltds the .ketchine ground of painters and the
pleasure haunt Of trippers at all seasons. Dry
-.se would complete its attractions as 2 winter
-e.nrt for there lis hracing air the ST. Ives
ci,@. or softer. heln'ier breeze on the Pen
,enc. rim Of Mounts Bay. with walking line
=, six or eight miles between the seaboards
,5u-,fsfty IS not . serious drawback when the
,s-,,u6e is that Of Northern Newfoundland and
~. temperature often higher than in the Riviera
:, The skies are gray and nazy more frequently
,.., they are blue and clear. there is the charm
:. -noduIsted light without dazzling glare to
-.,sAr,,re the wild rugged coasts and the des-
.,.-. --eeless rnoors and heaths behind them.
re -.vadinE moisture not only dampens the
-,e6s hut also keeps the verdure fresh on cliff
e-5 hillside. open air roses and canellias do
-o- cesse 10 bloom n December. fuchsias
.-a daisies IN January: and even in q backward
February rhododendrons. myrtles and hydran-
-sss ere reveIlng in warmth violets and wild
bverinths are Towering In sheltered corners. and
RS. snd dsrodiIs lighting up hedgeroRs
- meadows with golden glory If the display
.zI-7s and exotics in the Morrab gardens be
t,,d the Esplanade be disappointing reminder
.,.. IN, reel tropics d long way off.
-.,s,r-ely stroll along the cliff paths. longer
sr ove- the hills 10 St Just St Buryan.
o-s-s r-cof that the earliest and halmiest Eng
,,xs .,Yirs is here and In the Scillies.
1,valids ought TO be cheerful and happy in
r.--snce especially when there rich mists
:, ,u,I;Sht over the long cor1bes and granite
-s,,hes inland as there have beer in my ram
.,.s They do not seem contented when they
t,,e IN solemn state with q muster Of fifty or
sixty under s single roof Pre-occupied with
hacking cough or creeping chill. they eat or
.-1nse in silence take their ailments with NOR
rsd seriousness. complain of the finIs in the
roads and OF the haze in the sky and exhibit the
ro-uid inertia Of ulolluscry- The Gulf Stream.
dividing of the Scilles and warming each side
or the narrow. rock bound promontory. is an
effective system OF heating apparatus but IL
cannot raise the temperature and countersct
the depressing influence OF large company OF
-eIi-to-do English invalids who watching
their symptoms. worrying over their digestion
ard exhausting their energies in killing time
What causes them more irritation than shavery
weather or a dull. gray sky. is the appearance
IF thoroughly healthy animals IN walking suits.
who live IL the open air. caper along the coast
eIar6 paths like goats and chatter vivaciously
about twenty-five mile tramp when they
themselves are breathless and footsore after
ter-Tninute turn IN the Morrab Gardens. and
ache in every rheumatic joint after three
rrIIe drive 10 Mount St Michaels-
+ is 70 the old-fashioned walker that the
fascination. The roads too rough for COM
<,-1zhle driving o. cycling. The motor onni-
bus.- running 20 St. Just Semen are noisy
-sttIet-aps filed with garrulous miners and
-T,stics The walker is released from dependence
upon these jolting. nerve rending vehicles and
a. liberty 70 head for the Coastguard path
s--oss the fields. and when he has found it, 70
follow the sea in long circuit OF high cliffs
and deep ravines Having left Cape Cornwall
,,-,d
presses or 10 the quaint village OF Semen and
the granite headland Of Lands End, with Dr.
Johnson's grim features high above the islets
and with the natural tunnel where western and
southern Eeas are clashing. The walk
has barely begun a. the westernnost lookout in
England. for the cliffs are 70 be- followed from
cne bovlder-hea ped. lichen-coated cape 10 an
other until Logan Rock. or If the time serves.
Until Lsmouna Cove is reached One pictures
cue cove succeeds another. with shingles Of vel
i9w sand underneath pCeciptous rock facades
pi.rc.d with caverns; and the whiteWashed
stones lead on over abysrnal ravines and lofty
terraces. with the ocean ever in sight and
equally glorious under q gray q blue sky
one lofty escarprnent marks a shifting or the
trend q the coast from south to east. and he
hind Il n e sheltered hollow is a tiny village.
8. Leva7. with lychgate and church tower
sc the coast runs on with its heavily buttressed
pro1ontories and deep ferny combes fringed
Win saud AL the way from Logan Rock 10
Lzr1oyna and Newlyn and the walkers en-
tfUsiasrn increases every mile
This circuit Of Cornish coast may not be
rsnd es the loftier sea range Of MAYO and
DonessL nor so beautiful in coloring as the
Dsvonshire seaboard. the chalk palisades Of
Dore- but Il is rugged. wave ridden and pict-
urescue as England's Outermost rock wall
ousht 20 be under the ceaseess beating of the
Atlantic: and behind II are the bare wind-swept
hills. where gorse and dafodils arc beginning
= hurst into golden eplendor- L is the group
inr rather than the height of the mountains
thai lends dignity and loveliness 10 the English
ske district. and in the same way - Is the bold.
broken conformation Of the Cornish ranga
=. cIiTs-the unendinE variety II the shaping
of 10 masses of rock and the indentatons for
taeiyins beaches snd verdant Eens NJ heather
src b-oor1-that makes II ! beautiful and i'm
pr.Esive seaboard- Moreover. the coast has not
been spoiled and vu'garized ny modern improve
merits The majestic headlands. Pardenick and
Tol Psdr Per,s-itf1 are not crowned with garish
hotels; ror the curvfng crests of the White
ssud and MI bays decorated with ambitious
v1Ies. nor are the shingles of sand Uttered with
aiding machines summer houses and adyertis-
AS hoa-dings- II Is isolated and lonely coast,
- from the Expectations Of speculative build
e-s ana the vulgar traffic Of trippers side shows.
and reserved n its primitive wildness and rvs-
7srT for the tranquil enjoyment of artists and
levers ~ natural scenery.
There are also the Cornish fishing villages.
Picturesque and quaint the homely little
Dutch havens. Three of them are within easy
waking distance from Penzance. NewIyn Was
discovered by Mr Stanhope Forbes and other
painters long ago and II has remained the