Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27
MANS EVERY.DA SACK COAT
Autumn Dress Of the New Yorker in
Business.
MORE MODEST IN IT'S APPEARANCE
Free from ExtravaEance in Cut or Ma
teriaI-BrOwn the Predominant
ing COIOr-Lines of TrOus-
ers and WaistcOsts.

NEW YORK, Sept. 26.-Perhaps it is the
sack coat that interests the well dressed
New Yorker more than any other garment.
That Is the coat he wears most frequently.
1t is the business dress OF nearly every
New Yorker, whether he be a clerk or the
president OF a trust company.
1t is no thing indeed to see a
young man who has attained or inherited
a conspicuous post in business go to his
office in a frock coat or a cutaway elab-
orately braided. But the sack suit is as
much the symbol Of business here as the
blouse in the Chamber Of Deputies in Paris
is the outward and visible sign of the work.
ingman's party.
SO it is pleasant to learn that this popu-
lar garment will this season be free from
any extravaganza in cut or material.
Brown is again the prevailing autumn
color, just as gray predominated all sum
mer. But the alienation of these two
colors seems almost inevitable.
The browns this year show the usual
variety. They are the smooth, hard fin
ish cheviots in various shades, the herring
bone stripes, the shaggier cassimeres,
checks outlined by pin lines of red, blue,
gray and green. and flannels similar in pat
tern to those made for summer use, but
heavier.
In some of the cassimeres and cheviots
the checks and stripes are so family out
lined that the goods seem to be of a solid
color. And this color must be of a dark
chocolate brown rather than in the light
shades worn several years ago. The vogue
of the onion skin is passed. Such shades,
moreover. are suited only to summer
weather. p
There are, of course, other colors than
brown. although that is the color seen
most frequently and on the best dressed
men. Grays are so dark that the black
check or stripe on them is scarcely dis
tinguishable; or they are so light that
they might be intended for summer wear.
Blu is so essentially a summer color
that 1t rarely appears in the winter ward
robes. Yet the dark blue winter serge may
be a very smart garment.
The double-breasted sack OF the kind
shown in the picture is recommended only
to the slight man. Such a coat, made Of
heavy winter material and then covered
with an overcoat produces an effect of the
kind described by fashion writer's as
bunchy. Yet the thin man in a well cut
dark blue double-breasted serge will be
certain Of looking as smart as the best of
them. In such a garment It is, of course.
line, and not color, that county for smart
ness.
The smart sack OF the coming winter
should have four buttons and is still some
what longer than the coat of two years
ago and falls we'll below the hips. The
shoulders are OF natural width, which
means that there is no padding. although
every coat fits better for a certain amount
of stiffening.
That the coat shall not outline the figure
too closely is shown by the professional
description of it as half fitting, which
means that the figure is outlined without
ever allowing the garment to touch too
closely at any point.
The smartest coats have three seams in
the back, although some coats are made
merely with the two side seams and a
single piece OF cloth to form the back.
This is not so smart as the two-plece back
with the seam down the middle, which en-
ables a tailor to cut a much smarter coat
and makes any garment In some indefinable
way appear much more distinguished.
The sack coat of the year must show
plainly that the weaIer has a waist in
spite OF the equally important condition
that the coat must not be what is COM
monty called cut into the figure. It is the
mysterious phrase, half-fitting, which ex-
plains that the coat must be tight, but not
too tight, the figure suggested, but not
emphasized and all eccentricities of cut and
design carefully avoided.
The collar still closes low enough down
TO show the top of the waistcoat, while
the edges at the bottom are rounded, but
almost meet. The roll OF the collar, which
should not be pressed down, extends to the
breast line, and the hip pockets are fin
ished with flaps. The breast pocket is
finished only with a seam and is a little
more slanting than formerly.
The sleeves are finished with a two or
three-button veHt, which is naturally prac-
ticable, as one says of stage properties,
which means that 1t will button and unbut-
ton, whether that be necessary or not.
The waistcoats are this year almost in
variably made without a collar. They are
also single breasted-few even of the fancy
waistcoats this year made double breasted
and its novelty Of finish may lie in long
points or a button hole for the watch
chain cut between the second and the third
button from the bottom.
The trousers are moderately full at the
hips and should still be tight over the
dHhie' Inc IciueHCg 10 20 make lntIn
tighter at the knee. Naturally they are
finished with side seams to match the
coat.
A man who should have known much
better came into Sherry's the other day
wearing a blue serge suit. The coat was
impeccable as to fit and so were the trou-
sers. One detail Of their appearance, how.
ever. ruined them. Down the outside seam
OF each leg was a stripe of black braid
Such a monstroslty may be of London
origin, but il was bad wherever 1t came
from.
The tendency TO keep the trousers some
what closer fitting is in line with the aban.
donment Of the padded shoulders, the cut
OF the coat closer to the figure and tn,
general attempt to keep the coat natura.
rather than in accordance with a conven.
tional fashion.
One other coat shares with the sack the
duty Of clothing the American business
man. This is the cutaway, as II is called
here, or the walking or morning coat, a.
II is known TO the London tailors. Thu
great popularity Of this style for dres.
during the last few years threatened tC
drive the frock coat out of existence. Fol
daily wear il is most affected by mer
who have passed beyond the first years o