The San Francisco call., 1908-12-27


til after New Year one must be up
bright and early to accomplish, in
anything like tranquil state of mind,
ones purchases. 1t is at the risk OF
getting your winter hat crushed still
lower on your head that you enter
shop of% any pretense TO popularity
these days, after 10 o'clock.
The automobile salon. or show. con-
tinues to attract large crowds and IN
the afternoon. between the hours OF
and Z, it is simply impossible to move
along the main hall. From the balco-
nies ndaupper galleries thousands gaze
down on the brilliantly illuminated
stands. The buffets where tea is
served are crowded TO suffocation, ana
it is not easy TO find an unoccupied
table among the hundreds set around
in every possible nook and corner or
the main gallery or on the ground
floor.
Some very stunning gowns were
seen at the salon Friday, that being
the select and fashionable day, the en-
trance fee there being raised from one
to three francs. A great many smart
tailor frocks were in evidence; in fact
these seemed to be the favorite choice.
"A most attractive one was of violet
colored velvet; the coat was new
l0OQCl. =,
might say so loosely did il hang, quite
straight, front and back. 1t was
formed of five panels, braided and
edged with black braid; the skirt was
quite plain. The hat matched the cos
tune exactly in shade. Aand was one of
the inverted flower pot shapes with
two large. uneurled ostrich feathers
placed upright at the front.
Another extremely pretty costume
was OF rough serge of the popular
brown shade which borders on mustard
color made with long, loose coat and
scanc skirt A large gray hat trimmed
with the feathers the same tone and a
ruche and muff of ~chinchilla were
worn with this toilet.
A bronze colored cloth suit. very
tightly fitting, was trimmed with braid
of different shades; the jacket had
large revers of black satin in direc-
toire style, opening on jabot OF
white net A large black satin toque
with a bow of emerald green velvet at
the side completed the costume
Among the more dressy toilets no.
ticed was an amber liberty silk frock in
princess form, draped TO form very
high waisted effect. the draped corsage
crossed in front over a white, very
small, yoke (the large ones are no
longer fashfonable). The skirt part
was cut on the bias. With this was
worn one of the new bonnets of shirred
silk which are something like Sal
vation Army bonnet without the
strings. This one was of the old FASH
ioned puce color and had a large bunch
OF yiolets at the side. 1t was very
quaint and in this case, as the wearer
was very pretty. most becoming.
Still another OF green liberty or
panne velvet was a bit striking. as IL
was richly embroidered in darker
shade. A magnificent chinchilla mantle
which reached the ground made the
wearer the observed of all observers. A
large green velvet hat with green and
gray feathers was also worn.
Almost all the ruches or collars, OF
either tulle and fur. or fur alone, have
the new long streamers Of silk or vel
vet ribbons. These reach below the
waistline and are worn at the front
or back. or falling al the side, as
fancy dictates
The unusual spectacle. in France, OF
a young French girl Of good family
giving a lecture on the condition OF
the Young French girls of today ano
the French woman of the next decade
was enjoyed at one of the leading thea
ters of Paris lately. Mile Dietz-Mon-
min. charming young woman of 9
lecturer. Her views were most inter.
estingIy told.
I'VE are becoming Americanized." she
said. Young girls only reply II
monosylIabIes, and voice with precision
ideas which they are no longer for
bidden TO acquire. They are taught
other things than dress making ane
cooking They are becoming more ane
more practical, and are fast picking VI
-. I'D 10nr n
look after their own interests"
Mile. Dietz- -Monnin is strongly op
posed. however, to the suffragettes o.
today. who she says are neither pret
" nor young, and are not womanly
The day when women come to NEE
men on their own ground. or try TO
they will be loGt,v she said. "Fanc.
seeing a woman at the head of squad
ron of cavalry or driving a locomotive.
Furthermore, Mile. Dietz-MonniI
would inculcate in mothers the neces
sitv OF dissipating the realm of imag
ination. that kingdom of dangeroui
phantoms. Children must be prepared
for. realities and the stern duties of life
Poor little tots, No more reading o
the exouisitely told fairy tales of thu
beloved Hans Christian. They, with th'
Grimm Household Tales. must b.
shelved and allowed to grow musty
that the IMAGINATION may De luIHe'
into the practical and sordid routine o
life. 1t is probably because of thi'
same trend that the majority of Christ
mas toys displayed are aeroplanes, bal
looms and electric affairs of all descrip
tions.
Scarfs were introduced and became
fashionable toward the end of the sew
enteenth century. They were ther
called .capes" and were composed o
two parts-the capelike part, whicl
came below the waistline at the back
and two long pendants which passed
around the neck and fell to the edge
of the skirt in front. AS those of to
day they were made of tafetas ant
were edged with fringe and lace.
Most luxurious are the fur scarfs IL
vogue this season. One seen recent,
at the opera was of chinchilla linet
with pale yellow liberty satin and fin
ished with the most exquisite Vene
tian lace
In the museum of the Arts DECORATE
are some wonderfully embroidered
gloves. notably those of Napoleon ]
Some dating from the thirteenth cen
tury are open the entire length OF th'