Los Angeles herald., 1908-11-15
Old Rose Cloth Gown.

r HE exaggeration in the present
fashions is displayed in many ways
besides the eccentricemodels. Colors
and trimmings are so markedly con-
spicuous that the note of over-elabora-
tion and exaggeration is evident in even
the most apparently simple gown. For
tunately there is a modification of the
first appalingly eccentric styles with
which the world Of womankind was
threatened a few months since. Yet suf-
fcent that is unusual and dagrantly
marked in effect still prevails to make
the woman of refined taste hesitate
long time before ordering her winter out
fit in any too lavish manner. preferring
rather to wait until the fashions are more
definitely settled.
After all the excitement there has been
over the marked change in the styles,
clothes are assuming more rational pro
portions. and out of the chaos are being
evolved many charming and becoming
ideas. so that it is quite safe to prophesy
that when the next season opens calm
and sensible state of affairs will have
been attained. Already the latest de-
signs appear far more rational and con-
servative. while the too theatrical and
grotesque are thrust far into the back
ground. In truth. there are models now
displayed that are strangely like some
of the fashions that were popular few
years ago and at time when all styles
were quite simple. e.
To dictate an unalterable policy in re-
gard to any fashion is not to be thought
of this season and any too sweeping al
command is treated with Indifference. Toi
say that tunic skirts are the fashion or
that absolutely plain skirts are the only
styles possible does not cause the slightest
excitement in the mind of the woman who
knows clothes. She looks at the various
models, selects the one that best suits
her fancy and what she knows will be
the most becoming and then gives her
order to the dressmaker with complete
assurance-or receives the orders if she
he blessed with an artist dressmaker on
whose taste she can safely rely.
TWO OR MORE MATERIALS
Combining two or more materials is one
of the popular fancies of the winter.
Cloth and velvet are used in all colors,
while satin and cloth, satin nd velvet
silk and cloth-the heavy ribbed silk
silk and velvet are most cleverly put to-
gether. Chiffon, lace, net and embroidery
are also included in the category of ma
terials used in the one gown. linen
comes the question of the braiding or EN-
broidering, which is another vital point
TO be taken into consideration. Rarely
does the braiding extend to both ma
terials. If used on the cloth then the
velvet is left plain, or vice versa, and 1t
is merely a question for individual taste
to decide which it shall be. A velvet
skirt with an overskirt and waist or coat
of cloth will be made with the skirt quite
plain and the rest Of the costume mass
of braiding, or the skirt and waist VIII
be of the cloth with the elaborate braid
ing and the overskirt of the plain vel
vet There is no fixed and unalterable
rule as to which shall be plain and whlch
braided. and consequently individual
taste again can be consulted. 1t must
always be remembered, however, that
when two materials are combined in a.
skirt there is the danger that the long
graceful lines so essential in these days
will be spoiled. A clever dressmaker' one
who is blessed with artistic talent, knows
just how 10 treat this diticulty-the anna,
teur cannot possibly cope with at and
must realize that there will be the erect
of shortening the hgure when the tunlc
skirt, cut without due consideration of
line, is chosen as the model, or when there
is an underskirt of different material
from the coat.
When the two materials and the braiding
are all of exactly the same shade there
isn't the same contrast, and if the colors