The daily sentinel., 1908-09-30
FASHIONS
AAAAOAsS
OF THE HOUR
CBy Catherine Niann-Payzant-)

of the nature of full gown, and this
is Well If one must visit hotel or take
a restaurant dinner while in town. or
is for a day only with some friend.
There is quite a noticeable difference
| between the travelling or street frock
and the afternoon costume. the point
treing BENG h the shape and tulness of the
or style.
/ Increase in length. Short Jackets are
! entirely pasSe, and. though few long
! talleu Etohs nave been shown among
| strongly towards the long coat lengths.
4 few may come to the hips or lit
must be preserved.
The new skirts, although veer-
ing more and more to the plain gored
! or circular models are vet seen with
plaits. The difference lies in their ar
as little material as possible until at
the flare. for the walking skirt has
though so close in fit about the hips.
/ ness and perpendicular lines. Stitched
| bands of silk or the material itself are
/ seen on many skirts, but again the
| Mnolly pam skirt is Just as fashiona-
Sleeves are long, and elbow sleeves
are not shown in the real imported
| coat The directoire modes in Jackets
| have established the vogue of buttons
all. but decidedly ornamental and of
| different sizes. Braiding still remains
with us more or less in amount ac-
eording to the use of the costume.
Vests are also shown in both plain
and elaborate styles.
While many empire coats are worn.
the long semi-iittug. half-cutaway or
the directoire coats are best suited to
ordinary wear The woman OF plain
taste will choose the former, especially
for business wear; but the directoire
the back which add to height with it's
open front and vest and lapels are de-
cidedly smart and most generously be-
lA NH.aFNH hF. snTff Ia
out being over-elaborate. They are
so constructed that they may be worn
lapels are left open over vest of
plain cloth Of a lighter tone, or a bro
caded silk. the latter material being
more IN Keeping with the directoire
sleeves are long and close fttinE and
haring Guns are often used. The lap-
els should be of silk or velvet and
ornamented with large handsome but
tons one on each point. Then. to car
ry out the idea to exactness, full ia
at the throat-aud. indeed. "A good deal
of care should be given to the neck !
Wear with all these severely plain |
coats. for here the eternal feminine is
shown to greatest advantage. Also. a
frill of lawn. or lace, or net. falls he
should be several sets of these frills
and jabots for nothing win make the
coat look old and out of style quicker
than a soiled or worn necklace.
And the vest! one would suppose
so The vest to the directoire model is
now made separate from the coat SO
to fancy. or interchangeable with an
other coat. In many cases this vest is
of light-colorod cloth or flannel. a bet |
ter choice is hrocade. as | have already ]
SAID; IT Is more in Keeping with the |
of the beautiful imported ones as the 4
workmanship is far in advance Of I
anything the ordinary modiste can give /
coats
1t would be better to put a little less
on the coats themselves toutside of .
the material aud cut). that the vest
may be very beautiful, for by its agcu-
cy comes the distinctive touch of style.
The buttons must also be chosen
with some care according to the mater
ial and texture Sometimes they are
embroidered. often they are covered
with brocade; but those Of silver or
rhinestone or gold are considered the
Serge. cheviot and homespun nre the
most satisfactory woolen textures.
color, with slight line OF black or
white running through it. In the
never broken. Coiors. in the homespuns
are at present light in tone; but a me-
II the dress must be worn an winter.
The figured and striped designs seem
to predominate in short skirt } cos
tunes. The ponEees aud rajahs now
come in two-toned mixtures. In the !
cashmeres and voiles the two-toue ef-
tects are acquired by a difference in
the weave OF the material. such as a
silk thread or satin line. a herringbone
or chevron stripe yet the color is solid.
The broadcloths are beautiful in text
ure and coloring and many women od-
born OF q knowledge of its dressy guaI-
ities and serviceability. s broadcloth
has the dressiness of a SILK or velvet. I
but can be appropriately put to more
use.
On summcry DAYS during the fan
the white suit viii still be worn; but
the trimmings will be braiding. per-
haps In black or red or mauve; and, if
one has an old suit Of mohnir or OF
other woolen goods I should advise
seeing that it is at once made ready
October. White wool dresses will be
Immensely popular during the winter
for house wear.
day. but its daintipess is not to be
compared with the clumsiness of the
on many kinds OF fancy work women
are more given to working at delicate
!,,ngerlt' anu the dalnty sprays are
thrown over house robes, or the net
yoke of a nightgown. The fiounce of
the pc tticoat may nave insets of lace
done in TINS new work. and corset Gov
ers and guimpes offer the greatest
for all sorts of designs.
The patterns all call for small flow
ers for which satin Daby ribbon is used
and the leaves and buds are formed
with tiny loops. while the stems and
silk in the usual way
The woman of fun figufe is often
new drossy waist. Tor many of the de-
signs with tucks and folds make one
look like balloon new model of
the kmono order may be change. 1t
is cut with the sleeves and waist in
one of green cashmere or other be-
coming color. The sleeves are not too
fun under the arms and the underarm
seams leave no unnecessary fulnesS
about the waist or shoulders. Instead
of tucks or gathers. the effect of long
lines is gained by stitched bands rum
ming from waist to shoulder. those of |
the back overlapping those of the front
in little points and a fancy button. |
rant In a Y that nNfands