Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-02-07
STYLES FOR STOUT WOMEN
Suggestions for Choosing Proper
Materials and Fashion.

maLSIl0lS anu 3 dSAASA'
The selection of a becoming waist is
often a difficult problem to solve for the
elderly or middle-aged woman who is
either unduly stout or unusually slender.
True, the troubles of the latter are less
than those of the former type; neverthe-
less they exist and must be met. II there
were only one class of each kind it would
be easy bother to cater sa-torially to their
needs. but both styles of figures are d.
vided into a number Of different classes.
Thin women may be tall or short
straight in the back or round shouldered.
hollow chested or simply fiat. long neched
and scrawny, or just slender and fiat, or
round at the waist line; while the stout
woman may be fairly proportioned though
large, or she may be away over the proper
mark in bust measurement compared to
that of waist and hips.
Then there Is the short, stocky but not
fat figure, and the woman who Is short on
the shoulders but very full around the
bust, especially under the arms. AS rule
this type has trim waist and small
head, and If she wears small hat one
cannot help thinking of peg top when
seeing her.
In the first place. the. material for
blouses must be wisely chosen If one
would look her best. The tall, thin
woman may choose from large checks,
plaids. rough surfaces. stif fabrics and
of thin type may wear small checks. fig
ured goods and any light tones In solid
color. The last named will also apply to
the tall. slight woman.
If either woman is round shouldered the
fact will be less apparent by draping. the
shoulders. This can be done by giving a
soft. fluffy outline to deep. round yoke
or. If the wearer Is very short and 1t may
be feared that this arrangement may cut
the figure too much. then it may be well
fullness over the sleeve tops extending
to the edge Of the shoulder blades in the
back and reaching the same length In
front
waist line thus gaining height as we'll as
fullness at the necessary point. When the
back is perfectly straight. and the chest
fiat, then the best results will be obtained
by wearing fluffy jabot ending just be-
low the bust or running the entire length,
tapering of, as preferred.
AS rule, slender women look attractive
in long-shouldered effects. for the Shout
ders usually slope naturally and the long
shoulder will be girlish in appearance.
On some the effect, instead OF being
quaint. becomes dowdy and old fashioned.
A good deal, however. depends upon how
the hair is dressed, so that II the thin
woman prefers long shoulders. but fancies
them unbecomins let her first try
change of couture. before giving up the
model Unlined. fluffy waists are to be
preferred to those fitted and boned. and
full sleeves may be worn with success.
Thin. bare arms are not pretty. so that
If short sleeves are preferred then the
arms below should be yelled by lace cuffs
or mousquetaire mittens. A most inn
portant detail of waist is the neck fin
ish. no matter by what type of woman 1t
t., Lf~ Hxpl A lr
an individual study. for there is no hard
and fast rule that can be followed. Speak
ing generally, however. the thin woman
should wear collars quite high. coming
we'll up to the ears and lightly boned.
If the hand Is thin and bony then the
two points will be graceful finish to the
sleeve. edged with a little lace frill. A
pretty hand may have the sleeve ending
IN a narrow band. buttoned around the
wrist
The belt must be considered next. If the
waist line is round. then any preferred
belt may be worn. 1t may be wide or
narrow. shirred or plain. if the figure IL
quite tall. A short woman should choose
broad figure-that is. form that appears
fattened at back and front-will look
better if the belt is narrow and drawn
through a long slice in the back. This
breaks up the line. as it were.
The stout woman's woes are not quite
as easily disposed of as those OF her Sis
ter.
In regard to materials, she must eschew
large patterns. plaids. bright colors and
shining surfaces. choosing white. black or
dark solid colors. or very narrow vertical
stripes Self stripes are always good, and
so are the pin-str1ped fabrics. These suR
gest length. and this is what the stout
woman needs. for anything that suggests
height apparently decreases breadth.
" planning models this point should be
strictly borne In mind. Everything must
be straight up and down: no horizontal
trimming or effect-breaking up the line
must be attempted
Tucks forming a yoke and then folded
% the waist line. tapering. and a group
of tucks from each shoulder taking a
similar direction in the back. will be a
smart and becoming style for general
wear. In arranging for a chemisette the
"V style will. as rule, be better for
the stout woman than the square or the
round. Plump elderly women are often
square in the jaw. or possibly have double
chins. II the latter. then it will be only
emphasized by cutting the neck round,
and a square jaw will become more
square still If the effect is carried out by
the cut Of the gown. Hence the wisdom
Of choosing the 'V." the point being SO
favorable to either type Of. chin.
Flat trimmings. arranged lengthwise.
may be employed. The surplice styles.
too, are often becoming. provided there is
not too much blousing at the waist line.
Still. this or any blousing at the belt is
matter largely individual. Some people