The sun., 1908-04-05
slim EFFECTS IN MEMS DRESS
NO PADDED SHOULDERS m THE
SUMNER SACK COAT.
Marrow shouldeFel Men Ia Be In style
for tie First Time The stylish coat
Somewhat shorter and Very simple
Trousers Not 60 Be Turned ~.

/ NARROW AnOuluefHi Wen 10 Be IN Allle
for tie Rlyt Time The stylish coat
Somewhat shorter and Very simple
-TrOnrr Not 60 he Turned Jp.
The styles for men to be worn during
I the coming season promise to be unmercilul
| to the narrow shOudered. The plan of
/ padding out the shoulders TO the abnormal
width that was modish few years ago has
| gradually passed through the reaction in
evitable in all pronounced fashions. Now
the ukase has gone forth that the high
shoulder seam is to be the distinguishing
novelty Of the summer Of 1908 In mems
| dress.
This means that there will be no slant
10 give the effect Of breadth Of shoulder.
Broad shouldered men will look narrower,
while those to whom nature has given no
breadth will be shown In their native slim
ness
II may be said in defining generally the
salient features OF the summers dress that
narrow shouldered men will for the first
| time find themselves in style. Men by
nature very broad will be made to look
smaller from the effect Of the high shoulder
seam.
So there will be no reason why the mar
row shouldered should resort to the pads
which were stylish only short time
ago and have for years been with some
men an invaiable feature.
Filling or padding Of any kind will be
very much out Of place In clothes, as the
styles are notably free from anything
that makes for stiffness. Coats will III
over the shoulders softly and loosely, and
| the lapels pressed down 10 the front Of the
coat will be seen less than they have been
I even during the las. few years. All collars
roll back softly and are suspicion narrower
than they were.
Sack coats which are really the standard
garment for summer wear, will be trihe
shorter than they have been worn, which
! iB another contribution to the general
effect Of freedom and informality In dress
| that all careful men must seek this summer
| IL they are TO be in the latest mode There
will be less shape impaired to the waist
which is a move In the same direction,
while the three seams in the back will no
longer end In open vents.
These vents were the inevitable result
OF the overlong sack coat which has en-
| joyed favor for several seasons. In coats
80 long some provision had TO be made for
the movement Of the body, and that coudbe
supplied only by the deep vents,
There will be vent in the centre seam
! only in the new coats There will be no
more strapped seams except on sporting
| garments such as Norfolk and shooting
| jackets. The bottom fare on the coat "a
| it was technically called will appear no
more. for which all men Of taste ought 10
| be thankful.
As the sack coat vial this year be shorter
the two buttons by which those most pro-
nouuced in style will be closed do not seem
as striking as they did when the coats were
long. The coat is still cut low enough in
the neck to show the waistcoat. There is
little cut away at the bottom below the
second button, and flaps are over the three
lower pockets-the change pocket ia in
ouded here while the handkerchief pocket
il uncovered
There are several new stunts for finishing
the sleeves. One Of these has two bias
bands Of the material applied above the
buttons closing the sleeve Better style
and more in accord with the simplicity that
is sought in this springs modes IL the sim
pie open cuff that closes with two buttons,
In this case there is no false cuf. but a real
opening, with the button holes
The other coat which interests the New
Yorker who wants to be- well dressed in
summer is the double breasted sack coat,
which is again taking on some Of the popu-
larity it enjoyed for several seasons One
of New Nork's best dressel men eft with
his tailor standing order for fourteen
years that double breasted 'blue serge
suit was to be made for him every spring
II varied only in respect 70 the size.
Additional inches had TO be considered
as he grew older and incidentally broader.
| For three years past he has dropped this
| item from his order.
During that period these coats have been
out Of style except for the use OF yachts
men; and then they formed part Of uni
forms. not suits This year there is a
| promise Of their revival, and they are 70 be
/ made in such attractive materials that
| there seems no reason why they should not
recover their old time popularity.
! They are just as simple in the style de-
| clared as correct for this year as the plain
| sack. Three buttons close them on each
side. A cuff with two buttons finishes the
| sleeve.
| There are no strapped seams and the
| cuffs are finished only with the two but
| tons Sometimes to give variety to this
| simplicity, which the double breasted coat
| can better stand because Of its proper
! tops, there is band Of the material stitched
| across the top Of false cum. In better
| style however, is the Cuff finish
The lines Of the double breasted coat also
| follow the figure closely. There IL no sug-
| gpstion Of additional breadthtO the shoulders
| and the high seam shows them in their real
! proportions, trying as that may he to the
| narrow shuuldered, who would rather be
| seen broad than stylish.
The principal difference between this
! coat and the double breasted coat OF former
wears seems TO lie in decided indication
! style TO cut that too closely. There should
! only he a suggestion Of outline.
Trousers are not TO be- turned up this
summer as regular detail Of style II the
| fashion makers are able 10 accomplish 50
| decided a change in an established mode
What will be easier oimpose on well dressed
| men is the noticeable snallnesS IN the meas
urements Of the trousers.
They vary from those Of last year in show
| ing more the shape Of the leg and fitting
more tightly about the top OF the boot
| They will also be closer at the hips.
Now that turned M trousers have been