The sun., 1908-12-20
MANS COAT FOR EVENING.
MANY GARMENTSlBESIDES THE
HEAVY FUR LINED.

the Tuxedo Chesterfield With Long
Shawl Collar an oddly Of the season
IAN Inverness Cloak OF Unusual
Dcsign-The Return Of the Raglan.
II 10 not taking too much for granted
to say that II the average man sure to
consult only his own taste he would
never appear In evening dress during the
winter months except with fur coGs.
They are the handsomest garments nor
evening wear. just as they are the mos,
modish, and whatever the fur used in /,
them they are likely to be the most be-
coming. They are seen at the opera
whenever there is the least excuse sup,
piled by the weather for such heavy over,
garments. y.
In these days the tendency so far as
protection is concerned 10 to under rather
than to over dress. go there had to be other
kinds Of overooats to Jake the place u
the fur lined for evening wear. The fur
trimmed coats worn this year are usually,
made Of kersey. black in color il intended
for evening wear. lined with mink and
finished with rolling sable COLLAR. Sable
cuffs are ornamental although they are not
always used. Buttons are preferred to
frogs and sometimes-especially when
the collar 10 made Of sable-there are
peaks In place Of the rolling collar which
may not be 10 smart but have the advan-
tage Of turning up closely about the neck.
The fur coat for evening wear falls to the
shoe tops. 20 t.
But there are novelties In the evening
coat that may almost compensate for the
lack of fur coat. One Of these is a 60
called Tuxedo Chesterfield which suggests
in some OF its features a comfortable
dressing gown. Its most salient point
is low rolled shawl COLLAR that extends
to a point about midway between neck
and waist. This shawl COLLAR is not less
widest point and slopes to width Of half
an inch at the bottom. This collar ia
more conspictious from the fact that il
is made Of ribbed silk; but as the great
claim 20 consideration for this coat is the
fact that 1t Is something different, such
emphasis was inevitable. ..t
The material Ia q black wool and the
coat falls to the top Of the shoe. II has
a breast pocket finished without q fap
side pockets Of vertical position. heavily
welted and long hy that extends from
the bottom Of the shawl collar TO the
bottom OF the coat In front. Such coat
provides Of course no substitute for a fur
lined garment as it ts not made heavy
enough to keep a man warm especially
as evening clothes are for one reason or ,
another ALWAYS lighter than other gar
ments.
Inverness which is certain to appeal TO ?
those who are interested chiefly In get
ting something different. The Inverness
in its old form of the cloak over the shoul-
ders united to the coat from that point
down. had a revival OF popularity. several
years ago; and there was much more
excuse for that established style than
for the variation put forward this winter.
It is long cloak that falls to the knees.
The high turnover collar Of the black
cloth reaches to the chin and behind q
muffier protects the collar completely.
Four buttons which come through the
vertical openings on each side for the
arms and these are closed by haps that
are provided with holes for the large
buttons. The cloak 10 finished down the
front as we'll as about the bottom and !
around the collar with q broad over
muc 1sI.er ss.ea e t5s
for such evening dress as Its designer tn
tended il for. .'.ntt 49,
The great advantage Of this new cloak
Is the ease with which. one may drop u
OF In the theatre or at the opera. IL
lined with heavy black satin. which offers
a strange contrast to the rough finish OF
the coat. The buttons are not Of silk or
cloth, but black bone, and here again Is
the note Of inappropriate contrast be-
tween its purpose and the means. These
are days, however. in which IL Is more
entity E rather % r. than 70 Be tsstefully dressed.
and designers must keep that public in
mind. This garment, as q matter of fact.
is a compromise between military gar
ment and SCOTCH shooting cloak.
The n raglan ompIsw %Ss slways o tSsi
Il was almost impossible TO buy one Of
them anywhere a few years ago. Now
the coat in appearing again In a style in
tended solely for evening wear. Why
the raglan should have been thought
especially appropriate for evening .sni wear " ar
easy coat to slip OF. and there In less dan
ger Of slipping the tie of and perhape the
dress coat as we'll along with It. The
raglan in its present incarnation has not
escaped the present tendency to paint
passage back 70 medishness strap that
buttons about the sleeve, pronounced
peaks at the COLLAR lapels. welt finish
on the patch pockets, and with flaps that
turn both In and out at the desire OF the
wearer. These coats have the most
chest several inches below the shoulder.
and of course the absolutely soft shoulder
without padding Of any kind.
The revival OF the raglan. which may be
expected also in overooats for daytime
wear next winter, is a revolt against the
excessive shoulder padding Of the last
few years, and means that the artificial
extended shoulder will not only be re-
duoed to. It's natural proportions by the
Of all padding hut. will
also be made to look sill narrower by,
the rounded shoulder. These raglans
for evening wear are made Of black goods
of smooth finish. with a pattern-either
stripe or oheck-inthe same color. They
are lined with thin silk and are as rule
too Hight for evening wear except on the
mildest winter nights.
The evening dress raglan ID di1eren-
tiated from the others In that II is much
fuller and roomier. The breast and width
are equal to those OF the
Inverness. and that amounts almost TO
the freedom of cloak. There Is a seam
in the back with long vent. There is
a velvet collar to this evening raglan, and
this is another point In which Il differs
from any coats OF the kind made before
1t falls well to a point between the ankle
and the knee.
Similar TO q Chesterfield in its lines,
but heightened to the proper extent 10
protect the wearer, is new coat in
tended for evening dress. 1t is OF wooliena
cloth. usually Of soft finish. black Of
course, and may have an invisible pattern,