The San Francisco call., 1908-04-12
Women Smoking in Restaurants Now
Causes Little Comment Abroad
Strong Perfumes Grow in Favor, While
Sachet Is Plenhfully Scattered in Gowns
By La Voyageuse
pEcIAL CORRESPONDENCE OF THE CALL


PARIS, March 20.-How ones tastes
can and do change, even as do the
fashions And how true it is that
everything is a matter of habit.
short five years ago women's smoking
was tabooed by most we'll bred people
and considered the worst possible form,
at all events when practiced in the
drawing room. And as forever so tiny
q cigarette in a public restaurant That
was hopeless,
Not that today there does not exist
large class Of women. in all countries,
that do not quite approve. or that
while willing TO puff in friends
house, yet hesitate to smoke in a pub
lie place Still grace is granted nova
days TO the woman who smokes, and
II the men. many of them. think it but
adds charm, what stronger argument
can there be in its favor?
Certainly this form OF using the
weed is infinitely more graceful than
that Of stufing ones nasal appendage
with snuff, or OF Offering it TO your
neighbor, from no matter how beauti-
full a box. 10 do likewise, as was the
custom OF the bellies and beauX of
older times.
If you think, when wandering
through a museum, and looking with
envy at the many collections OF eN-
ouisitely p6inted enameled boxes,
that we call bonbonnieres. that they
were used for that purpose, you are
mistaken. If really antique, they are
Just plain snuff boxes. and most beau
tiful they are. 1 saw one with minia-
ture surrounded by pearls that so fas-
cinated me I went back over and over
again at the Louvre museum the other
day TO look at IT,
And as for perfumes, Our poor dear
10 la1s
could they see the lengths TO which we
20 today. Eau de cologne and lavender
water was scarcely permitted; soap and
water was enough for them While our
great t-grandmothersi-the least said the
better.
Today the fashionable elegante de-
mands the rarest the choicest, per-
fumes. and often selects one that be-
comes identified with her. Many even
go so far as to have certain perfumes
that suggest, or match. in odor the
color Of a frock. Sachet is used every
where that It can be introduced in
Innings. shoes, gloves. hats-everything
is delicately and delightfully."- scented.
I saw such a smart boa recently on
the rue de Ia Paix and such q relief
from the long or short feather boa
worn now for an interminable time. It
was shaped like the two skin furs of
the winter. but only reached TO just
above the waist line. Made in natural
color ostrich and marabout feathers.
the four points, as IL were, ornamented
with long full silk tassels of dark
brown. it was most attractive and not
dear at SIS.
Very becoming TO young and piouant
faces are the hats with falls or ruff1es
of lace or lingerie inside the brim.
though I must say they look rather
garden party like. I saw a quaint one
Of the cloche variety. a hat with a
large soft crown of brown point d'es-
prit, which was encircled with poppy
red ribbon. a bunch of poppies being
placed at the side.
Another had a band of black taffetas
pleated in an inch above the fall Of
cream colored batiste The crown was
encireled with a broad band of dark
blue velvet edged on both sides with a
wreath Of tiny pink roses.
Aigrettes still flourish and with the
return Of warm weather and open car
riages will not be the source Of ex-
pense they were during the winter,
for with getting in and out and sitting
{ in the closed carriages whose tops are
far too low for these high effects one
was constantly clipping off the broken
points or buying new ones at SO and
$50 apiece. At the races the other day
/ I saw smart black. light weight
straw hat that had g bright green
aigrette that ] am sure was a foot
high. The rage for little vests con-
tinues and charming ones are shown,
made Of cretonne and the like cotton
materials
Such lovely. lovely stockings. all
shades, TO match the shoes and slip
pers. go with almost all the new frocks
and match them In color. The latest
novelty TO take the place of the cum
ming little knickers that are so popular
and that come now. by the way. with
an inner lining Of lingerie, is the robe
pantalon. I have seen them. but have
not yet solved the problem of how you
get in
Gimps are made mostly to match
( the color Of the dress. but if Of white,
the color Of the dress is repeated in a
tiny ruche at the top. Fashion still
inclines TO the directoire effects shown
( IN the earlier spring models. but with
added and new grace. Greek effects
continue in great favor showing them
/ selves in tunics and oyerskirts that
show. as 1 stated several weeks ago, a
] tendency to the return of the polonaise.
I Everything combines TO make you as
! slender as possible, with a great deal
/ Of fullness around the bottom Of the
gowns.
Mrs. r. Cone and her daughter. Mrs.
z. ". Runyon, formerly of Red Bluff,
/ but who have Of late years lived mostly
In San Francisco, are in Geneva Mrs
Runyon has attracted great deal of
attention and is known as La Belle
Californienne.
Mr. and Mrs. William Clun G. Bloss,
/ Mr.. and Mrs. Julian Thorn, Mrs P.
Inckal and family are San Franciscans
visiting Florence.
Mrs Brugufere and her son. Louis
4 Bruguiere of San Fra ancisce. who have
also a villa at Newport, after spend
ing the winter in France. are travelling
( through Italy in auto. At last ac-