The Beaver herald. [volume] (Beaver, O.T. [Okla.]) 1895-1923, 1908-12-03
pILlNe FARM TOOLS.
Coos Care viii Make Them las,
Twice as Long.

why do we oil tools? For the sim
pie reason that 1t doubles the life
and easy working OF them, says n.
Agricultural Gazette OF New South
Wales This being 50. what oil is the
best 20 use. and what is the best way
to apply il?
Without going chemically into the
reason why. which would take too
long 10 explain. it has been found.
from centuries of experience, that, like
the old carpenters rule Of wood to
wood. iron to iron" in working tools.
the rule in oillng IS vegetable Of
10 vegetable matter. animal oil tot
animal matter. metal. or stone"
OF the vegetable oils. We have raw
and boiled linseed and castor. from
plants; of the animal. neat or bull
lock s-foCt meat stood for bullock in
Anglo-Saxoni oil. and fat or tallOw.
These are the only ones We need con
cern ourselves with; the others are
Of no use 70 us.
The raw linseed ell Is pale yei'0w in
color. and runs easily as water: Ia dark,
yellow. and -ticky it has been adulter-
ated with cheap FISH oil. The boiled
oil Il naturally much more sticky than
the raw. q lot OF the moisture having
been dris - OF IN the boiling is is
also darker in color than the raw. The
difference in the use OF these oils IS
that the raw oil penetrates the
woCd-fbers right through. and only
forms a skin outside when these wood
hbers can absorb no more Of il. The
boiled linseed, on the other hand. is
too viscous OF thick TO enter the wood
fibers. and makes a skin on the out I
side at once. Thus you can see that
IL you are oiling or painting wood
for yourself (paint Is only white or red
lead mixed up with oil and colorins
matter), use the best raw linseed;
and, If doing a cheap Job for someont
else, use only the boiled; the wooo
will soon decay as the boiled oil Skin
wears of, but that is none of your
business.
Now. to apply these oils: First, tn.
linseed. For oillng handles OF any
sort, take an empty golden syrup OF
jam tin, see that it is perfectly clear
and dry, and half fill it with your raw
linseed stand your handle or handles
In it, and leave them there for a couple
OF days. Then reverse them in thf
pot, and, after a couple of days, taxi
them out and give them a rub owe
with a raw linseed oily rag. The!
are now fit for use, will spring well
and stand the weather with impunity
If the wood in them is any good at all
You oil planes differently For tina
tryer, Jacks, and smoother, you first
remove the wedge and iron. Now
block the bottom of the opening (or
"mouth') OF the well, as carpenters
call it, securely with putty. and pour
raw linseed oil into it till almost full,
Leave ii for a couple of days. and you
VIII find that the thirsty beech has
drunk up all the oil. Fill her up again
and she will soak up about half OF
that. When you find she will drink
no more. pour the rest back into the
drum, remove the putty, clean. and
she is ready for work If you want
n pretty plane. rub the sides and top
well Win the OH diSDs sue VIII tNeu
look as If she had been polished. II
likely to get rough treatment give
her sides and top coat of boiled
oil all over; this saves planes won.
derfully. For other planes, leave them
in a billy of oil for couple of days
first removing the iron Cthe wedge
wants oiling as welD. Then rub them
on the sides, and they are ready for
work Iron planes, OF course, you
do not oil at all, except the bed or
wearing surface. You must keep on
giving this dab with raw linseed
OF, preferably neatsfoot, oil or you
will not be able TO work it at all
To apply neatsfoot; You must keer
q little oil can full Of II on the bench;
when your oil stone will not bite, OF
your saws cling, or feel a bit rusty
ilirt q few drops on as needed. Grease
or fat viii answer the same purpose
but is not as good