Waterbury evening Democrat. [volume] (Waterbury [Connecticut]) 1903-1917, 1908-04-04
CHEVIOT. SERGE,

one IOT lHe SlTccL Ut tudl loE tuc ~
would be more correct to say, which are
the most important, for certainly no
well dressed woman would think it pos
sible to face life with only the one street
gown, but whether the most money shall
be spent on the street costumes or the
gowns intended for the house is most
serious problem and one not to be decided
rashly. At the moment two styles Of
street costumes are required, the one
severely plain, the other more or less
generally more-elaborate. For the strictly
tailor made serviceable, practical costume
to wear in the morning the plainest of
models are chosen, and when becoming,
the majority of women prefer an almost
exaggerated effect of simplicity, of sever
ity, not to say masculinity. There are.
however, many women who do not look
their best in the too severe tailor gowns,
and for their benefit there are many mod
els that are a combination of tailor made
and the more fanciful style.
The regulation tailor made costumes
do not vary materially from year to year, |
and the conservative tailors contend that, !
like mems business suits, the practical
walking costume should never present any
radical change from year to year. A short
skirt is obligatory, but the exaggeratedly
short skirt is not considered smart. The
circular skirt and the plain gored skirt,
preferably the former, will be smarter,
TOO, this year than the pleated, although
the latter is SO universally becoming that
1t is a grave question whether it will be
considered out of date. 1t will certainly
not be given up entirely in preference to
The other models The lines of the new
,kirts are straighter than last season, and
there is not the rather decided slantlng
line from the back to the front. This is
rather a pity, for a skirt so hung had
much better and smarter appearance than
The one with the too straight lines.
PLAIN AND FANCY MIXTURES.
Plain and fancy mixtures are alike fash
bnable. The too strongly accentuated
stripes of contrasting color are not con
adhered AS smart as the more indistinct
lines. Checks and plaids are also to be
found In the new cheyiots and tweeds,
while the plain and fancy serge are most
attractive In their variety of coloring and
design. As these are all materials in
tended for the hardest kind of wear the
fashion Of making materials waterproof
seems especially practical as applied to
them. The same fashion that came into
popular favor last year is again to be
noted-the checked or striped skirt, with
Jacket Of solid color, in cloth or silk.
There Is much about this style that IS
worthy of note, but be il remembered that
II IA more or less striking and consequent
Nv possesses the disadvantage that by the
next year the fashion may be entirely
cent However, clothes are not supposed
10 he worn two seasons, and therefore 1t
"a not necessary to choose styles with
any thought Of their being In fashion be-
yond the present moment.
Fascinatingly attractive is the only way
10 describe the more elaborate styles in
the cloth costumes The colors are so
charming, the quality Of the material so
6ne and the general styles so distinctive
md becoming that the only difficulty is to
aecide between the equally desirable.
Plain colors are considered the smartest
for this style OF cloth costume and the
lighter shades for the spring season are
The most in demand. Once again is pur-
nile In all the different shades OF mauve,
heliotrope and lilac extremely fashionable,
and with so many different shades of the
color It Is possible for almost any woman
10 find one that is becoming. There is a
queer shade of blue green, green blue
that Is very smart, new tones of blue and
cerise and one shade, only one, OF petunia,
not magenta, all Of which are effective
AMI intensely smart. The lightest weight
in cloth is chosen for these costumes, for
apy cloth is too warm once the summer
season begins, but at the same time it is
certain that a cloth costume is found to
be essential to comfort many day in the
summer, especially IL the summer be spent
IN a cool climate.
MANY BRAIDED COSTUMES.
Alm,t without exception these clotf
rostuni $ are braided. sometimes in mos
elaborate design. again in simple an'
rather severe effects. Both the broad
and narrow braid is used. IL the narrow
IS chosen several rows Of il are put OF
close together, and at either edge 1t i
finished with the broad braid. Sometimes
the braid Is on the trimming rather thai
the material itself. on the cuffs ans
facings and collar. Sometimes II is II
long lines on the back Of the coat ant
Just around the foot of the skirt. bu
then there is an endless variety in de
sign and effect TO choose from, 50 tina
individual taste and the size Of the dres
allowance decide the question
There Is no arbitrary rule as to III,
length Of the coat. A few Of the model
are exagEeratedly long, others are ex
azgeratedly short. A medium length
three-quarter cutAway may be cited a
the most popular at the moment. Their
must be a waistcUat. and the designs 70
the waistcOat are as many and a. varies
as fer the coat. but the coat must be GU
90 tia. the waistoOlt shows The shor
wasted effects are still in favor. but III
snartsst are not exaggerated.
The line Of the Wais; may still BE- highe
than il IS Il reality. but the coats are IOu
20 cut that slenderness there is iHsisie,
upOa and al the sane time the waist lin
1. indicated. Then with the jacket fasten