Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-17
NOVELTIES IN JEWEL TRADE
DEMAND FOR UNUSUAL CoMBI-
NATION AND EFFECTS IN COLOR.
Fashionable Jewelry Shows Handi.
work of Artificer. - Results
Achieved With Minor Jewels.
Paris Correspondent Of Vogue.

far1G correspondent OF vogue.
Fashions in jewelry have made de-
cided departure in recent years. 1t is not
enough that the Jewel box contains gold
and diamonds. Any metal may now be
worn, II it be properly worked by the
hand of an artist. and diamonds are, ar
tistically speaking, nothing, unless they
are combined with some wonderful bit
of color-it may be nothing more than
horn or greenish copper. In form there
is preference for heavy. massive Byzan-
tine effects, or for rich, elaborate rem
aissance.
AS for materials. there is a fad at pres
ent for translucent enamels, brilliant as
the most brilliant jewels, for blackened
silver and copper inset with smoked or
mother Of pearl and with baroque pearls,
and for horn in every possible tint from
dark brown to bright coral. pale rose.
delicate mauve. Horn is immensely used,
carved with a masters hand and COM
bined with gems of price. Ivory and sill
yer jewelry is most effective: and ivory,
precious woods, gems, enameis mingled
with metallic stuffs are all set into the
sumptuous embroideries which the fash
ionable women adore at present.
AS to the nature Of the jewelry, curious
necklaces, breastplates. stOmachers, dia-
dems and rings form the evening parure
necklaces, buckles, buttons and hat pins
the most important accessories for day
wear The diadem or coronet has be-
come universal among we'll dressed Wom-
en- And 1t is donned constantly, not re-
served for q few unusually ceremonious
occasions, as formerly. For dinner opera
and evening party a diadem of some Kind
is customary throughout the season, and
infinite is its variety.
Some Of the most beautiful are not by
any means the most expensive, for many
lovely but common materials are used;
silver and ivory, copper and canoes. horn
and seed pearls, with semi-precious
stones, such as chrysoprase. lapis and
agate The necklace for daytime wear Is
more massive than that for evening. or
some delicate quivering pendant alone is
worn on fine chain. Any amount OF
money may be put into the two or three
hatpins demanded by the present fash-
ions, and with people of moderate means
the search is frantic for odd bits of old
jewelry that may be made into hatpins,
for of artistic value this article must be.
Gently four pins. an old silver feur de
lis, piece of old Roman mosaic. pale
yellow and white cameo In an old copper
rim. and a large, round and very much
originally the Ave Maria on an old Span
ish rosary. At this rate hats are be-
coming perfect curio receptacles.
Jewelry and Embroidery at the Salon
At the old and new salons there are.
as always a considerable number Of
beautiful and novel pieces Of jewelry, en-
broidery. lace and other coquettish fem
mime decorations. Most prominence is
given. and justly so, to the cases in
closing the jewels by Lalique and Gall
lard. The first named has such beau
tiful necklace, setting low about the
in al M a.
sembling interlaced birds wings, the de-
sign continuing the same all about the
throat. Part of the motifs are made in
tiny diamonds. these interlacing with
mon pink sculptured horn. and In each
motif there is placed two large and beau
tifully matched pearls. In his case also
there Is large comb that stands high on
the head and which Is in very dark brown
carved horn in the shape of two swal-
lows single stalk of wheat in god, seed
pearls for the grains, lying across the
wing of one bird.
caillari has a large breast ornament in
golden cOlored horn carved into a leaf
ored topaz imbedded in the design, while
from this cluster there hang two long
flexible chestnut blossoms made of hun
dreds of tiny rose diamonds set in pale
green gold. these blossoms swaying at
every movement. He has other breast
ornaments that are confined by means OF
four chains. two OF which clasp about
the neck, the other two clasping about
the waist: these chains In pearls or in
fine metal links. according to the COM
position Of the breast ornament. One has
gold chains and large breastplate in
carved gold. inclosing sculptured pale
green jade masque. Another has chains
in black steel and gold, and It's orna-
ment is in black steel and old silver and
dull enamel in the form of a large bug.
Horn Ornaments.