The sun., 1908-12-06
not worry about her sleeves.

not worry about her sleeves.
She can contrive close short oversleeve
out of the material OF her old sleeve and
use transparent material for the long
tight undersleeve. or il she prefers she
thin material; and II she doesn't want
II thin sleeve ia the gown it is possible
in many cases to arrange long sleeve OF
satin or other silk. introducing some OF
the same material elsewhere in the frock
or the sake of harmony.
Starting out first with moderate full
ness toward the top the seasons sleeves
have grown closer and closer until now
they clasp the arm tightly from shoulder
TO wrist in majority of instances, and
even the coats have done away with the
armhole fulness.
uncomfortable OF course. Women are
bewailing the fact that they can no longer
comfortably get their hands up to their
heads after they are dressed. but it is the
mode, and we will suffer now,as we have
before in the interests of fashion.
There are compensations too. Ones
glove bill has shrunk tremendously and
there's a certain relief in not being con-
fronted at every turn by bony elbows and
ugly forearms. Short sleeves may be
comfortable. but the average woman's
arm is not beautiful and the long sleeves
cover multitude OF defects.
Against one mistake women should be
warned The wrinkled mousquetaire
sleeve is of course the simplest solution
for the long sleeve problem. aside from
the tucked transparent sleeve, and it
is being generally adopted for the cheaper
frocks ana by the women who employ
home seamstresses and little dress
makers. Now, the wrinkled sleeve is a
pretty and graceful thing at best. but it
can be hideously bunglesome. and only
too often it is 30.
1t must be made OF soft material and
on foundation OF something as soft and
light as net or silk mousseline. 1t must
not be too full, the. material must be
stretched around the arm to fit snugly,
and the fulness must diminish toward
the lower arm until in many cases it
disappears altogether on nearing the
wrist; that is, the shirring stops, though
the material drawn snugly is sure to
wrinkle little.
In this way becoming taper is given
TO the arm. The sleeve must Of course
he fastened with, loops and buttons.
hooks and eyes or buttons and button
holes for some distance above the wrist.
Otherwise it cannot be fitted closely
enough without making it impossible
to slip the hand through.
With sleeve of sheer stuff the fulness
NAV al tho ~av n the wrist
since the material is too thin and soft
to lie bunglesome or unbecoming.
The little frill on the outside of the
arm which was a feature Of the shirred
long sleeve early in the season is no
longer seen on the smartest frocks,
having had a tendency to thicken the
arm, while extreme length and slender
ness are things desired. A line OF small
buttons or other ornaments set along
the outside seam is liked, and on many
of the French frocks plain line OF trim
ming is set into the shirred sleeve down
the outer seam.
good illustration Of this will be found
in one of the sketches. the sleeve in ques-
i,on being wrinkled affair OF mousseline,
with narrow band Of Irish lace running
down the outer arm and Irish lace set
into the armhole fatty around the top
Of he sleeve.
Another variation on this idea is shown
IN Tie tucked mousselne sleeve, which
las wide band of lace down the outside
b1t crossed at intervals by bands Of the
tncklng
long wrinkled sleeve which. like the
short one illustrated here, meets only
NJ intervals with an open space between
Is ropular for dinner and house wear.
and a sleeve of this character In mousse
In" made over contrasting silk and
Vin buttons set at 'the points where
't' 'vo sides OF the sleeve meet is fire.
o""rtly used for a blouse or frock OF
chiHon or mousseline made over silk or