davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-09
Fashion Notes and Novelties.

should be made Of pongee matching the
suit in color and the bordering utilized
for the short, pointed revers and the
flaps of the tiny hip pockets. Some oi
these waistcoats are on distinctly man
nish lines, but quite long over the hips
and slightly cut away at the bottom
The backs are of thin SILK In order that
the garment need be no warmer than
absolutely necessary.
silver Ribbons and TIssue-Silvef
ribbons are seen on many Of the latest
black hats developed In erin and gauae.
Sometimes the crown is entirely swathed
with the transparent material, and the
twisted ribbon Outlining the lower edge
of the crown where it Joins the briml
terminates at the left side in a large
looped bow. Another black hat, with
a dip brim, has crown covered with
silver tissue yelled with black net and
from one side springs a willowy silvery
feather. An exceedingly effective coarse
black straw is trimmed with silver
aigrettes and tissue.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-09
aels for Street Wear Dancing Pumps Hosiery.

the thinner the hosiery, If not Of Peek,a-
boo type, the more elegantly dressed does
the foot appear.
Stockings to be worn indoors are most
ornate. Black and white ones are deco
rated in self and contrasting hues, chiefly
In floral effects. Some OF the finer sort
have insertions and medallions Of lace
set into the instep and others are elabo-
rately beaded and spangled. These of
course, accompany the satin dancing slip
pers worn with pailletted gauze ball
gowns.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-09
Startling Revelation of
the New Directoire :
Elaboration Rife
Many Buttons The
Satin Vogue Colors
and Trimmings.

The French mode of the eighteenth CEN
tury known to fame and to dressmakers
and tailors as the Directoire, will un-
doubtedly dominate the styles of the com
ing autumn. In its various notifications
the modern adaptation sometimes gets
quite far away from the original models,
distinguished for their tight skirts. short
wasted coats cut away at the front and
their collars high at back and sides. The
variations of these details are noted in
the tailored coat and skirt suits intended
for practical purposes and developed in
such materials as mohair and lightweight
serge, in such ultra fashionable colors as
mulberry, slate green, taupe and bronze
brown. They are trimmed with fancy
braids of kindred tone or with soutache-
embroic red black satin bands.
Black Satin Buttons.
More buttons are used on tailored coats
of the modified Directoire type than have
been seen on outside garments within the
recollection of the oldest dressmaker.
This does not mean that they are en-
ployed to close the fronts of the coats,
for these are often blindly fastened. es-
pecially If a waistcoat is employed. The
buttons are set along the shoulder seams,
they outline the fronts by being placed
a trihe back from the edge, they punctu-
ate the short waistline, the underarm
seams and the cuffs. Two dozen large
size buttons are not considered an ex-
travagantly large number to put on one
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-09
The Ultra-FasEionabHe Pump Smart Models

with large mother-of-pearl buckles, and
of champagne or maize suede with black
trimmings and buckles.
White satin pumps are the dancing foot
wear par excellence of the current sum
mer. And very stunning affairs they
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-09

From the modest proportions of an ordi-
narily-sized hatpin head, they have grown
to more than the diameter of a silver
dollar. Indeed, one enthusiastic importer
of such goods asserts that they are Of the
circumference of a bread and butter plate.
Be that as it may, cabachons are certainly
tremendously popular and add wonderfully
to the smart effect of a costume.
The Satin Vogue.
Satin is enjoying such tremendous vogue
at the present writing that It would seem
as though the supply of this lustrous ma
teral would be exhausted by autumn, even
though the makers work over time. Entire
costumes for afternoon calling and the
races are of black and such fashionable
shades as taupe and wistaria in satin. The
skirts are clinging and usually untrimmed,
but the coats are half-htting and very elab-
crate. Some of them are cut quite short at
the front and hang in straight, loose lines
to the top of the high girdle, and at the
sides and back they are of three-quarters
depth. Others have the one-button open
fronts, which show the lace Jabot on the
blouse worn beneath them. and slope away
sharply from the waist line. third type,
and one that is distinctly Directolre, Is
cut away from a few inches below the
underarm seam, so that in front the effect
is that of an eton. This, however, is one
of the extremes and only to be carried
by a woman of exceptionally good hgure
and graceful bearing.
Embroidered Net Coats.
II lined with satin or taffeta the same
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-09

are. Just to look at them through
show window would make healthy girl
of normal tastes long to dance. They are
fitted with the thinnest of soles and the
highest Of satin-covered Louis heels and
their toes are just wee bit too finely
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-09

conspicuous. Other novelties which are won
derfully chic. but too decided In charac-
ter for the city's streets. are those or
gray ooze with scarlet heels and buckle.
Of vivid green in combination with white
calfskin and light tan, of pearl gray
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-09

coat, and in cases out of 10 they are
covered with black satin. In most in
stances they are disc-shaped. varying in
size from the proportions of a nickel to
that of a silver quarter, but a few are
oval or olive shaped, and many show APP
plicatlons of satin matching the shade of
the cloth suit which they decorate.
Elaborate Afternoon Costumes.
While the continuous lengthening of the
simply tailored suit coats is quite marked
and their shaping differs radically from
those of last year, they bear but slight
resemblance to the coats which accom-
pany elaborate semitailored afternoon cos
tunes. These are of fine, lightweight
broadcloth In all the fashionable medium
dark shades. Some are champagne, bis
cult or taupe colored, but there are many
navy, electric and Copenhagen blues, and
all tints of gray from London smoke to
pearl. The skirts Of these costumes are
long, soft and clinging, some Of them
absolutely plain and others trimmed with
silk cable cording or soutache They
have the raised girdle waist hnishings and
are practically built on to self-colored
chiffon, lace or net blouses for the So
called three-piece elaborate afternoon cos
tune actually consists of coat and
princesse or one-piece frock.
Cloth "Picture" Coats.
Afternoon costume coats are chiefly dis
tinguished for their eccentricities, for they
are alike only in so far as they are short
wasted. Sometimes the backs are SO long
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-09

that without a trained skirt beneath them
they would almost sweep the floor, but
they usually curve gradually away from
above the. waistline in front. Other coats
hang straight, to the Knees in front and
then are cut away sharply toward the
back. In direct contrast, and to be recon-
meIided because they lend grace and long
lines to the figure, are those having tight
fitting backs terminating at the waistline,
and long, narrow and straight fronts reach
ing far below the knees.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-09
RIack and Khaki.

Separately considered, black and khaki
costumes are immensely smart at the mo-
ment. The black gowns are Of smoothly
finished broadcloth similar in design to
the elaborate afternoon costumes, but worn
without suggestion Of contrasting color
beyond the white about the throat and
perhaps, In the trimming Of the large
black hats which top them. Khaki colors
are chosen for smart toilettes of the same
character. They are embroidered chiefly
with soutache and trimmed with fancy
braid. While numbers of costumes In these
two colors are In one tone, there are few
garments, on which touch of one or the
other of them does not appear. Black is
employed in most instances on champagne,
green, white and blue and the khaki on
grays, pinks, mauves and mulberry.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-09
The Overgrown Cabnchon.

Cabachons of many varieties are seen
on all the elaborate tailormades. They are
of cable cording, chenille, velvet, jet and
all manner of fancy metals and beads.
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01

In a recent sermon, Rt Rev. Mon
signor Lynch Of Utica. N. Y, cited the
record of mixed marriages in his own
parish. There were in the last twen-
ty-five years only 500 marriages in the
church, and of those ITS, or nearly one
third. were mixed marriages. OF the
17s non-Catholic parties, 76 had new
er been baptized. Allowing two chill
dren to each marriage, Mgr. Lynch
showed that. according to the census
of the parish, 225 children were lost
to the faith. Assuming that half of
these children marry Protestants, it is
evident the Church's loss is greatly
increased. The quickest and surest
way declared the prelate, to destroy
the Catholic church in any community
is the way Of mixed marriages. The
Monsignor's statistics could no doubt
be duplicated in many other parishes
With such large Catholic popula-
ton. there is no reason why purely
Catholic marriages. that join together
people of harmonious views. should
not be the rule. says the Iowa catho-
lie Messenger.
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01
IRELAND AND QUEBEC,

The festivities attending .he cele-
braton Of the Booth anniversary Of
the founding Of Quebec adds another
chapter to the already plain lesson Of
England's duty toward Ireland II
ought to be possible for English states
men. who have shown a genius for
statecraft in dealing with every ques-
ton Of foreign relations. to solve the
Irish question. Perhaps the condi-
tions which were presented to the
Prince OF Wales, the Duke Of Norfolk
and Earl Grey will bear fruit Can
the English authorities avoid contrast
ing the spectacle presented at Quebec
with that which Ireland presents?
The province Of Quebec after a CEN
fury and half Of English sovereign
ty. during all Of which time the ut.
most loyalty has been shown by a
foreign people to English rule, is to-
day prosperous and contented prov
ince. It's people are as much French
as the people OF Ireland are Irish They
are as much. and more foreign to Eng
fish customs laws and the predomin-
ate religion Of England as the Irish.
They do not even speak the English
language. Quebec Is an asset to the
British Empire. Ireland is a liability,
and will continue to be until the Eng
lish recognize finally that the Irish are
nation: until they concede. without
reservation. the right Of the celt to
progress along Celtic lines. Had Que
bee been treated to the same sort OF
government that has been in vogue in
Ireland. Canada would not today be
part OF the British Empire. Per-
haps the necessity OF the case was the
determining factor in English coun-
ellis. Perhaps the English genius for
statecraft recognized the futili.y Of at
tempting to govern a people separated
by the Atlantic Ocean. by the same
methods which they apply to people
separated only by the English Chan
mel. Perhaps it was the same base
consideration which recently led the
English government to confer self
government upon the Beers of South
Africa. who but six years ago. carried
arms against the British Empire
There is much reason for believing
that as the years go by and the colo
MES of the British Empire become the
predominating partner in the govern
ment. that perhaps even the English
Channel will prove sufficient as a d.
viding line between Anglo-s Saxon and
Celtic nationalism.
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01

Mr.. Bryan's determination not to &C.
cept cash from corporations. marks
the beginning of a new era in political
methods. We believe also that it will
prove a good political move from the
standpoint Of advancing Mr.. Bryan's
chances Of election. Every man who
contributes his mite to the campaign
fund will feel a personal interest. The
campaign will be a part Of his BUSH
ness. in which a part Of his capital is
invested. He will be sort of a part
ner to the national committee and his
influence will be worth more ,tan his
contribution. OF course. the success
of the plan depends upon the ability o;
the national committee to enlist a suf-
f1cient number Of persons into the
partnership.
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01

We have been having some real
midsummer weather during the past
week. It is not strange that people
generally believe that heat is produc-
tive of disease. Records show that
the death rate and disease rate Of cit
les in this country during July and
August Is below that Of the winter
months. Sunstroke and dysentery are
not as dangerous as pneumonia. The
real danger to health duting the warm
weather comes from Nth and Door
food. The one serious cause Of the
slaughter Of children is milk that is
spoiled or dirty. II grown people
would avoid eating too much ana eat
ing tainted food, summer sickness
would practically disappear. If you
have any trouble determining during
these days whether you are keeping
up to the standard Of cleanliness.
which good health demands, look
around and see whether there are any
flies. If there are, your standard is
too low. If there are flies in the room.
there is dangerous filth near bv and
the fly has all the means Of transmit.
ting that filth eithar directly to tho
body or indirectly through food.
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01

Write and talk as they will the pub
lie men Of Germany are not satisfied
over the political outlook in Europe
says the st. Louis Western Watch
man. There would seem to be too
much accord between Russia, France
and England. The other day French
general went too far in the direction
of a German zone Of influence. Word
was dropped from ST. James. and the
troops were recalled instantly, and
there is likelihood Of the generals be-
ing dismissed. The three powers are
all too kind to Germany. They are de-
termined to kill her with kindness. the
German press thinks. Is it the pol
icy of the European powers to isolate
Germany? She certainly has few
friends and cannot afford to make
any new enemies.
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01

The two most prominent features Of
Taft's speech of acceptance We're his
efforts to impress the country that he
intended following the footsteps of
Roosevelt and his endeavor to placats
the labor vote. Taft is an aole man.
He will prove himself a genius II,
while visiting Oyster Bay and harping
on the Roosevelt policies. he is able
to hold both the Roosevelt and anti
Roosevelt strength, and while attack
ing the labor plank Of the Democratic
platform. he is also able to secure the
labor vote.
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01

Immediately after the Democratic
convention. a rumor was spread abroad
that John w. Kern. the Democratic
nominee for Vice President. was a
Catholic. Immediately certain patri-
OTIS had all sorts OF premonitions OF
what the Jesuits would do to Bryan.
in case Bryan and Kern were elected,
in order to place Kern in the presiden-
'tial chair. Be not afraid. brave pa
triots, Kern is not Catholic. He was
reared a Methodist.
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01

our belief, who stand any chance Of
defeating Mr. Jacobson this year. One
is the present Governor and the other
is Ex-Governor Lind. The strength Of
the latters administration while he
was Governor; his prominence in ma
tional affairs and his commanding
ability. We believe would insure his
election beyond a doubt If he would
consent to become the nominee, but
that consent has not been obtained,
nor is it likely to be forthcoming.
Governor Johnson. because of the
success OF his two administrations and
because Of his racial antecedents and
the fact that he halls from the coun-
try. could. no doubt again lead the
party to victory. But Governor John.
son. apparently, also has had enough
Of the office. and yet he is in differ
ent position from the Ex-Governor. He
is not a professional man. His In
come since assuming public office
doubtless has been as great, IL not
greater, than any income he ever en-
joyed. He has not served the coun.
try as long or In such varied capaci-
ties as Ex-Governor Lind. and there
appear to be some considerations which
might rightly influence Governor
johnson to remain in his present of.
flee. When the Democrats Of Mime.
sofa abandon these men and take up
the consideration of other names they
are indulging in good deal Of rain.
bow chasing Somehow, in the Twin
Cities the idea has gone abroad that
Mr.. Jacobson is a weak candidate The
very provincialism which gives rise to
this idea will be the strongest factor
In bringing about his election. This
may we'll be borne in mind.
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01

The selection of Norman e. Mack
ito lead the Democratic national COM
Hnittee in the coming campaign is an
indication that the Democrats intend
to put up a strong fight in the state
OF New York. The appointment is
made only after consultation with
State Chairman Connors and Tam
many Leader Murphy. II the Demo-
cratic party is united in the state of
New York and enthusiastically en-
tors into the work Of the campaign,
{ Bryan will carry New York, ant If he
carries New York. he is assured OF
election.
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01

Sound advice was that given at St.
Vincent's college. Pennsylvania, by
Rev. D. j. o'shea, who told the grad
yates: you will be told that religion
and business do not mix. Religion and
dishonesty and crookedness and dou.
ble-dealing don't mix, but these things
are not business. Honesty, industry,
courtesy and fair dealing mix with
religion. and these are the factors
which make for success in business.
and In the long run these are the only
things that will succeed You will
hear it said that religion and politics
don't mix. Religion and bribery and
graft and perjury and ballot box stuff
f1ng don't mix. But these things are
not politics. There are indications
that the day Of the boodler and DO
lftical CRATER is about to pass. If a
man today aspire to any political Of
nee of honor or trust he must bring
with him a clean, respectable record
If he wishes to succeed. The Catholic
Church in this country has suffered
much from the disreputable doings OF
low-down crooked politicians who
used the name of Catholic to furthe,
their own selfish ends and deceive un-
suspecting voters. The one man
above all others who should be driven
from public life is the unprincipled,
traitorous Catholic
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01
AND THE COVER
WORSHIP.

If Democrats imagine that they can
hold the Governorship Of this state
without much effort they are destined
to have a great disappointment. Mr..
Jacobson has many elements Of
strength. Tho Republican candidate
is unusually strong with the farmers
Of this state and 1t is therefore well
for the opposition to be frank with
themselves at the outset. There are
only two Democrats in the state, in
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01
CHURCH EXTENSION SOCIETY,
John J. MeGrane Pounds a College and
Seminary for italian Americans.

John J. MeGrano Pounds a College and
Seminary for italian Americans.
Before the McGrane Pilgrimage
sailed for Rome in July arrangements
were perfected to found college and
seminary in Hawthorne. N. Y. under
the direction Of the Salesian Fathers
for the education Of young Italian
Americans, destined for the priesthood
who will work among their fellow coun-
trymen in the United States. The
donor Of the college is Mr.. John J. Me-
Crane, Knight Of st. Gregory, and
member Of the Board of Governors Of
the Catholic Church Extension society
of the United States Of America. The
foundation is under the auspices Of
the society. on the designated gift plan.
and with the intention Of thus making
a striking beginning Of the societys
work for Catholic immigrants. When
the Pilgrimage reaches Rome formal
presentation Of the college will be nado
to the Holy Father as a recognition OF
his Sacerdotal Jubilee in the name Of
Church Extension. The society will
foster this college as one of its great
works of charity. Mr.. McGrane is tn
be congratulated both on the founda-
ton and the way he has made it. On
the foundation because in no better
manner can the question Of guiding the
path to Catholic immigrants be solved
than by providing them with priests
who thoroughly understand their Ian
guage and the language Of their
adopted country. while all this time re.
naming in full sympathy and bound
to the people by ties Of blood: on the
way. because it sets an example to
others Of giving through a regularly
organized work where it counts as part
and parcel Of the Catholic Mission en-:
deavors Of the Church in America.
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01

ceeded in obtaining less than 200 del.
esates. Then he became the candi-
date Of his Independence League for
mayor Of the city Of New York. and
was defeated. Next he bulldozed the
Democratic party in the state of New
York into endorsing his candidacy foi
the governorship of that state. and he
was the only man on the Democratic
ticket defeated.
In 1908 he is launching a new po-
litical party. with absolutely no hope
Of present or future success without
the possibility Of carrying a single
state, and with the strong probability
that he will not carry precinct In
the whole country. for the sole and
only purpose of obtaining enough
votes in close territory to defeat the
man on whose principles and popular.
ity he tried to ride to power. Surely
never again can man, claiming to be
a Democrat, give aid to William RAN
dolph Hearst. Four years ago in Min
nesota there were a large number Of
good Democrats who were deceived.
Fortunately there was just enough in
this state who were not deceived, to
save the Democracy in Minnesota from
the disgrace Of having endorsed Mr..
Hearst. In that fight we did what we
date. Four years have amply sufficed
to prove all that the Irish Standard
then said.
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01

At the national convention Of the
,Ancient Order Of Hibernians, held last
week in Indianapolis, the third largest
delegation present from the various
states and Canada. was that of Min
'nesota. And Hibernians of the Go
,pher State" are naturally and deserv-
eddy proud Of the position they have
thus won in point OF membership.
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01
REV. JOHN H. GREENE.
Oldest Priest In Baltimore, Has Been
Poet, Soldier, Lawyer and News
paper Man.


Poet, Soldier, Lawyer and News
paper Man.
Rev. John H. Greene. who is said to
be the oldest priest in the Arch.
diocese Of Baltimore, celebrated his
s7th birthday at his home. 100 West
Hill street. recently by spending tho
day quietly with Rev. Alfred B. Lees
on. pastor Of st. Monica's Catholi,
Church. whose guest he has been for
the last six years. A short time before
that Cardinal Gibbons confirmed a
class at st. Monica's Church. aud
Father Greene rode with him in the
carriage from the archepiscopal resi-
dence to the church.
Although he has not done active
church work in several years, on ac-
count Of his age and the fact that he
is fast losing his eyesight, Father
Greene says mass at st. Monica's every
morning. Up to the past winter
he arose between and a. m. every
day and took a long walk. He be-
lieves in going to bed early and in
getting up likewise. and thinks that is
what has prolonged his life.
''ro live a long life" he said the
other day. Il believe every man should
follow the same rule as 1 have about
sleeping hours. He should be temper
ate and never use tobacco to an ex-
ceas. The young man especially should
keep ~ mind filled with noble
thoughts. Then, II he will work and
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01

Out of SCI members OF the House Of
!Commons from England, Scotland and
Wales, only seven are Catholics. while
out of 103 members from Ireland, 80
rare Professionals. Most of the latter
were elected from constituencies which
sare almost entirely Catholic. Which
is the more tolerant, Catholic Ireland,
or Protestant England?
The Irish standard., 1908-08-01

In view Of what took place in this
contest. it is hard to understand how
the English ever got a reputation for
fair play and honest sportsmanship. II
by any chance they ever should cap
ture the sailing trophy. and the cup
would have to be contended for on
English waters. Americans would
stand mighty poor show Of ever re.
taking 1t.