The daily sentinel., 1908-10-22
tBy Catherine Mann-Payzant.)

tBy Catherine MdHI-IdyZaul.)
New York, Oct. 22.-The seasons
millinery is varied, much of it is
freakish, and. with the exception of
the carriage hat, all of it is large.
Larger. l say, for the majority shown
in the shops are immense, yet at
some recent club meetings and re-
ceptions were to be seen a number of
small models. These were made to
order after the prevailing principles
now effecting millinery, but conser-
yative and becoming to the style of
the wearer.
While it is possible to procure
small shapes that are miniatures of
the larger hats, and more in har-
mony with the morning walking
suit, they have usually to be specially
ordered for they are seldom shown
in the exhibition rooms.
The large hat is weighed down
with trimming, plumes, wings and
foliage until the amount to be car
ried on the head becomes something
TO be reckoned with.
The brims are large, but the
crowns are much flatter than those
of the summer, and trimmings also
have a tendency to lie flat or droop
over the right side instead of being
punched high, except in the case of
certain styles trimmed with wings.
The decorations are mostly laid on
the right side for the broad hat great
bows of varied ribbon and band
are used with fancy pins when IN
tended for business wear; dressy hats
with brims so broad and dropping
that they actually cover the back ana
right side of the neck are banded
with a ruching of ostrich feathers, or
silk and passementerle ana long
plumes on the right side.
The toque models are much liked
by women with youthful faces, which
tooues are ornamented with tulle and
rosettes, sometimes of the same shade
as the hat or of a union of tints or
the color, and some delightful har-
monies are thus obtained.
The rosette of velvet is a frequent
mode of hat finish. The velvet should
be of that finest chiffon variety that
is supple and very lustrous and in
the center is often a handsome orna-
mcut Sometimes the rosette is COM
posed of several shades of one color
or of contrasting colors, such as gray,
mink and brown, or of several fuchia
tints on a purple velvet hat with
black plumes. or browns ranging
from buff to cinnamon brown on a
mole colpred hat of felt with gray
wings.
Some odd contrasts are seen with
black hats that once would not have
been tolerated A black braid hat
had quilts shading from purple tc
gray and blue fastened with greer
oruaments-an ugly looking contrast
one could never call it harmony
There is also a decided liking for q
com bination of green-vivid greer
and blue, which is really rather jar
ring to conservative tastes.
The Charlotte Corday, which was
so great a favorite during the sum
mer, is still popular. and is to be
found in felt taffeta and velvet fol
the winter. A black velvet Char
Iotte Corday was in one piece shirred
about the crown to shape on cords,
which formed the band trimming. On
the left side was a big rosette OF
black velvet and fuchia shades OF
Guile having an amethyst centre and
hebind the rosette fell several short
Hack pfumes of different lengths
The hat was to be worn with suit
of amethyst chiffon cloth trimmed
with bands of black silk and vest
of huff colored silk braided with
black soutache.
Smaller shape hats are trimmed
with whole skein of some fur-ani-
NAL. which is so arranged that the
head of the animal is the only. or
nament. For driving, motoring or
.ports such hat would be in good
style
4 number of the earlier hats in
satfn, repp silk or fine velvet are
fyimmed with flowers or foliage In
autumn tints. Huge roses are used.