The sun., 1908-06-21

metal oxidized, or embossed, Dark blue
waistooats in this same light woollen cloth.
days and, inde ed. lighter In weight than
duck, are relieved by stripes Of lighter
blues, brown and heliotrope, which 10 .
shade OF dark purple to which the dealers
attach this name, Greens 30 dark as to
look black are varied with stripes OF brown.
gray and yellow.
Waistooats made Of this material look as
II they might be intended for winter wear
until they are taken In the hand and one
appreciates their real Bghtness Of texture.
They are primarily intended for the cooler
days OF summer when the need OF wool is
felt by the prudent dresser The so-called
two piece suits are now 30 popular that
but for those fancy waistcoats the average
man would be without such q garment.
One feature OF the waistooats OF the
summer is the absolute Disappearance Oh
the collar. None Of them made by the
tailors this spring have this ornament.
The waistooats made for the ordinary sack
suits are also this year without any collar.
A return to a former style, which was much
overdone in its time, Ia the restoration OF
braid. which is seen on number OF tho
new waistooats. The sort Of braid 10 unlike
its predecessor and Is more often made Of
material Of O color contrasting with the
goods used in tho body OF the waistooat,
4 linen for instance which has blue design
over it will have the pockets and the edge
outlined with q material in similar ooior'
When the rage for braid led the haber-
dashers and tailors to ornament the waist
coats in this way the regular knit braids
were used for this purpose. Now they are
not seen except In some OF the white duck
and heavy linen waistcoats which are quite
destitute Of color. They are finished about
the edges and pockets with braid.
Piques with line Of color. either black.
blue or brown, are this year popular ma
terials for waistooats, and they are with
out ornament OF any kind, unless 1t be
indeed the monogram on the waistcoat
pocket. Among the new watstcoats whicn
are OF such freakish origin that 1t seems
dangerous even to mention them Is the
so-oalled alligator waistcoat.
It is made OF cloth which initiates exactly
alligator leather in a shade Of bronze. NO
heresy In fashion ever seemed quite as nao
when to it is added hat band OF the same
material This style of waistcoat will not. not.
it NAV be added, ever become familiar
scene OF the landscape In New York. =
There are pretty pique waistooats IN
pastel shades of mauve, brds-egg blue,
champagne color and biscuit that are
finished merely with cord OF harmonizing
tint down the edges and about the pockets.
These are sometimes made without buttons
that the wearer may put IN his own, ana
they are often OF kind that contrasts with
the material. II the buttons are supplied
pearl. The cold blue waistcoats with
buttons Of turquoise or contrasting shades
of garnets are popular combination.
But there are few men nowadays with the
patience to put buttons into waistcoat.
however smart the effect.
The craze for fancy waistcoats to wear
with the dinner coat, which overspread the
country two years ago. has subsidized to
such an extent that most OF the men seen
this summer wearing dinner coats are
satisfied with three buttoned waistcoat
of black silk rep. plain or with an allover
pattern in some small figure or with soft
brocade These silks are all as thin as it
without lining and only three buttons are
worm Tho cut shows a tendency to- get
away from the decided shape and al
ready the opening is growing rounder,.
Gray waistooats in the same eoft, cool
silks, In duck or even In dark gray pique
with a small and inconsspicIous pattern
are also worn, although the preference is
this year for the black silks.
For formal wear in summer there are
beautiful white waistcoats which this year
avoid more than ever the appearance OF
stiffness. They are made with the whole
front Of tiny tucks to match the unstarched
tucked shirt bosom and they are made
with broader tucks when the shirt is finished
in that way. Then there are white mercer
lied linens with an elaborate scroll pattern
all over them or in linen with pattern Of
small designs or in the finest kind Of duck
with no ornament but the fancy buttons,
for white waistcoats for evening wear
must have the special buttons just as in
evitably as the wearer must not have on
a ready made white tie. These points
belong to the little perfections Of dress
just as the necessity Of always having a
collar on a waistcoat for evening wear,
whatever the style for other TINES.