davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-10-10

chance for the woman of correct sartorial
taste. but limited bank account, to get up
a satisfactory costume than has been the
case for several years past. This happy
circumstance is due to the fancy for using
two widely different materials for gar
ments which at the same time require
considerably less cloth than would have
been necessary a year ago. This rule,
simpler of the tailored suits as to the
more elaborate costumes, which include
those developed in cloth with satin, vel
vet or ottoman, the skirt in most in
stances being of smoothly finished broad
cloth or silk cashmere and. the long coat
of the silken fabric. Often. however.
cloth is employed for both garments and
the trimmings in the form of panels or
battlemented band borderings are of silk
or satin. the vests. sashes. collar. cuffs
and pockets being Of the same fabric.
A Word About Directoire House
Gowns.
In these material combinations are de-
vised any number of attractive house
gowns or one-piece costumes intended for
semi-ceremonious evening use. They are
chiefly in silk cashmere or crepe de chine.
such as may be purchased for reason
able amount and made up into clinging.
long skirts, bordered with wide bands of
plain or figured satin or with soutache
braided filet net. The same trimming is
employed for the yoke bordering of the
blouse and also is used in entire deux
effect for the straight, short sleeves. Sim
pier dresses of coin-spotted and figured
foulard, such as may be worn the year
round for afternoon bridge parties and
luncheons, have skirts that, while scarce
ly sweeping the floor at back and sides.
are sharply gored and sheath fitting about
the hips. They are given the right amount
of weight by a bordering of broad. fancy
silk braid or satin about the bottom and
the same trimming borders the deeply
pointed yoke, the wide arms eyes and
the straight. closely fitting elbow sleeves
Of the blouse. The muslin embroidery
guimpe is invariably long-sleeved, high
collared affair and the sash of satin
matching the ground tone of the foulard
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-10-10
The Palmer Types Of
Pedestrienne Suits
Skirt Lore--Tu nics
and Novel Effects
in Draperies--Coat
Cuts--M aterials--
Directoire Details.

Despite the vogue of the one-pieced
tailored cloth gown and the long list OF
compliment which it deservedly receives,
the coat and skirt remain the street cos
tune par excellence. The influence of the
directoire idea has been wholly in its
favor in that it has had the effect of
making skirts simpler and coats more
picturesque and consequently more be-
coming to the average feminine figure.
That both these garments are a bit diff
ficult for the medium-priced tailor to
turn out matters little to his fair GUS
toner. He must learn to make a clinging
long skirt. a perfectly hanging short
circular and a picture coat or she will
take her patronage elsewhere. No man
appreciates this fact more perfectly than
does the tailor. and as rapidly as is pos
sible he is mastering the secret of the
directoire effects just as three decades
ago he acquired the art of adapting man.
nish modes to feminine curves. While
the strictly tailored and severely tailored
suit is still worn, the directoire costume
is ultra smart.
Short Circulars for Walking.
Though the long skirt is and has been
for year past the fashionable skirt. con-
sidered from the viewpoint of the woman
also in the opinion of her sister who
walks more frequently than she rides, it
Is not a suitable skirt for shopping or
long journeys. Moreover. the American
winter is not one to which the practice
of wearing long skirt for walking pur-
poses is well adapted, and while the
majority of the fair sex intend to keep
abreast of the clinging effects demanded
by the fashions of the hour. the majority
will be content to wear them in a modi-
fled form. Hence the short, circular skirt
will undoubtedly be the popular walking
skirt of the autumn and winter. No
woman or tailor can truthfully predict at
this moment what the spring will bring
forth.
Checks and Stripes Lead.
For practical street suits of the modi-
fled directoire type, such as are devel-
oped in beautifully finished siciliennes
serges and worsteds. checks and stripes
are far more popular than are plain eff
fects. Many of these fabrics are in two
tones of one color, although in some
having wide checks and distinctly sep
arated hairlines are seen rather startling
contrasts. These are especia V nota BILE
In the combinations of black brown and
blue. with white. The smartest looking
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-10-10

to take rank during the autumn and
winter.
Medium-Length Coats.
The medium-length directoire coats such
as are developed as the accompanying
wraps for a skirt of diagonal, heavy
serge, cheviot or homespun, promise
warmth in addition to their modishness
Probably the most practical of these
types is the one that is semi-loose. back
and front, short wasted in effect and IT.
regularly pointed about the bottom. Most
of the trimming is in the form of SOU
tache braiding about the shoulders and
fronts. on the high band collar and the
cuffs OF the straight sleeves set plainly
into wide arms eyes. Another coat or
simple lines has attached hips and back
forms extending from semi-fitting, elab-
orately braided Elton coat top, whose
fronts close over a lOw-cut incroyable
vest. This also has the high band collar
and the straight sleeves, which are fin
ished with Louis cuffs to match the wide
hip-pocket flaps.
The Incroyable Vest.
One of the most attractive features of
the present directoire mode is the waist
coat, which usually is made separately
from the jacket, and may be worn or
not. as desired For these accessories are
employed the beautiful brocaded silks and
satins which show figures and flowers in
brilliant tints upon groundings precisely
the shade of the cloth costume with
which they are employed. Or again. they
are of satin to match the directoire scarf.
which is often arranged to cover the low
er edge Of the waistcOat when 1t Is at
tached to the outer wrap. as is frequently
the case, the girdle passing under the coat
at the back. over the waistcoat in front.
and then knotted at the left side below
the hips.
Louis Waistcoats With Directoire
Wraps.
Just as SO many of the directoire coats,
so called, carry hints of the earlier period
in their broad cuffs and wide pockets, so
are there suggestions of Louis XIV
modes in the waistcoats worn with some
of the recently imported coat and skirt
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-10-10
The Knotted Sash.

Sashes knotted at the left side front
ward are to remain one of the smart
features of long skirts this season
Whether Of silk or satin. they are always
on the bias. and must be wide enough not
to have a skinny look. Tassels or passe-
menterie ornaments are for bottom finish
as we'll as the more elaborate danglers In
silk passementerie, or they are fringed as
we have had them.-From Vogue.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-10-10
Elton Collars.

An ideal occupation for the home-worker
is the embroidering of the eton collars
that are de rigueur with the simple serge
and cashmere frocks appropriately worn
by young girls still in the schoolroom-
These collars are OF soft linen embrold-
cred at the edge and fastened with q
little cravat, the frocks themselves con-
sisting OF a blouse bodice and plain
skirt with bretelles for passing over the
shOulders.-From Tatler.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-10-10
The Russian Blouse.

Just at the moment there is a decided
penchant for the jersey of the Russian
blouse persuasion. 1t is decorated with
gold buttons. the revers, collar and cuffs
being of a contrasting shade. For in
stance, blue with red facings looks re-
markedly well The skirt worn with It
should also be of blue stitched with red.
and an eminently distinctive cachet can
be given to the ensemble by a belt and
little cravat OF cerise leather. the latter
being arrangd with a becoming lingerie
Taller.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-10-10

Neither dots nor coin spots on net
ever look well over any hat trimmed
chieHy with flowers, as they seem to be
In dlscord with the decorative scheme,
whereas any plain net or a hairline
erect drawn over them serves to veil
their shabbiness and does not destroy
the original idea of the trimmer. Such
veillngs are the best choice for the
woman who is not certain about the
becomingness of the heavy or closely
set dots. as hairline or fine, plain
mesh suits every type of face and COM
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-10-10

of the neck. The mask chiffon veil is
a narrow piece of gauze. having a rib
bon run through its upper hem This is
tied about the head above the nose and
ears before the hat is pinned on. that
only the eyes are visible. The veil cross
ing the hat is an entirely separate piece.
although this is not apparent when the
outfit is properly adjusted.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-10-10

When the hat is rather large. however,
1T is always better to have two wells.
That covering the face may be of what
ever color is preferred. but the Dor
dered veil intended to protect the hat
should be draped over it in folds, the
back fold on either side caught into
the under brim of the hat close to the
hair and the front portion permitted to
hang freely. This method of draping
will conceal the entire front. the sides
and the crown of the hat.
useful type of veil is in the dotted
Russian heXagon mesh bordered on three
Sides. These may be SO draped over the
hat that the plain edge will merge into
the trimming. While black is always
practicable in these veilings, the fad for
the moment is for silvery grays and mole.
which, by the way, does not especially
becomes a blond woman. Maybe veil
ings are the standby of many women
past their first youth. as the white next
the complexion has the effect of soften
ing and sometimes of even concealing
the lines of age. but If a woman's hair
be quite gray she had better select a gray
or a white maline veil such as may be
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-10-10
Medium-Length Coats.

to take rank during the autumn and
The free lance. (Fredericksburg, Va.) 1885-1926, 1908-02-29
Gifts to Relatives and Friends.

Philadelphia. Feb. 27.-Within a few
hours after the marriage of Mrs. Annie
NJ. Weightman Walker to Frederick
CourtIand Penfeld in New York. her
attorney In this city announced on be
half OF the bride the following gifts
to relatives and institutions:
A deed OF trust under which 5000.
900 are set aside for the benefit OF
her nephew and five nieces. and 5000
900 for the benefit Of. four great
nephews and nieces. IN equal por-
tons
$4,000 TO the College of Physicians
In this city. as a memorial 10 her
father. the late William Weightman
$40. 900 to the Franklin Institute. in
this city. 20 carry out a contract me
mortal gift made as a memorial to her
father.
$4,000 to the Historical Society OF
Pennsylvania as n memorial TO her
first husband. Robert ]. C. Walker.
$4,000 to the Society to Protect
Children from Cruelty in Philadelphia.
$4,000 to the Society for the Pre-
vention OF Cruelty to Animals.
$4,000 TO the Professor George Allen
Memorial in the University of Penn.
sylvania and a similar amount to the
library fund OF the Perkiomen Semi.
nay OF Pennsylvania.
Mrs. Walker is the daughter Of Will
liam Weightman, the wealthy manu-.
featuring chemist OF this city. who
died several years ago. AS the only
surviving child, she was made sole
heir OF Weightman's great fortune.
and her wealth has been estimated at
over $40.O00.0O0. Mrs. Penheld's first
husband was r. J. c. Walker. who was
a Pennsylvania. member of the forty.
seventh congress and a well-known
lawyer of Williamsport, Pa. He died
In 1908
Mrs. Penfield had two brothers. who
| died. leaving six children. After the
death OF Mr.. Weightman. Mrs. Jones
Wister. wife OF one OF the brothers
attempted to break the win in the In
terest Of her daughter. In making her
gifts, Mrs. Penfield says that but for
the attempt to break her fathers will
she would have made a deed of trust
for the benefit of the nieces and
nephew similar to the one which had
been provided by Mr.. weightman.
The free lance. (Fredericksburg, Va.) 1885-1926, 1908-02-29

1.-TWO years ago 1 began using Peruna
and II built up my strength so thAtin .
couple OF months i was able TO go to
work again.
"This winter had another attack Of
Ia grippe, but Peruna soon drove 1t out
Of my system. My wife and consider
Peruna a household remedy"
Pneumonia Followed La Grippe.
Mr.. T Barnecott, West Aylmer, On
tario, Can, writes:
"Last winter was I'll with pneu-
monia after having la grippe. took
Peruna for two months, when became
quite well. and can say that any one
can be cured by It in q reasonable time
at little expense"
Pe-ru-na-A Tonic After La Grippe.
Mrs. Chas. K. Wells, Sr., Delaware.
Ohio, writes: "After n severe attack OF
la grippe, took Peruna and found It q
very good tonic"
Mrs. Jane Gift, Athens, Ohio, writes:
''Six years ago had la grippe very bad.
read q testimonial of n woman who
had been cured of grip by Peruna. Ny
husband bought me bottle of Peruna.
1 was soon ablo TO do my work. 1 con-
ltinued using it until was cured"
The free lance. (Fredericksburg, Va.) 1885-1926, 1908-02-29
THOSE DEBATES OF
CONSTITUTIONAL CONVENTION

report from the committee on edit
ing and printing the debates of the Con-
stitutional Convention has been sub
mitted to the Senate. 1t Is signed by Tar
ter Glass (ehairmanl, Judge George X
Anderson, j. NJ. Wills, C. V. Meredith
and Henry FaiIfax.
The report states that the com
mittee has been subjected to delay, and
uniustly so, the real trouble being due to
two chief causes the negligence OF men,
bers in returning proofs OF revised
speeches to the printers, and the tardi-
ness OF the contracting printers, the Her
mitage Press, in getting the work out
because of the printers strike.
The printers we're prodded from time
to lime by the committee for the delay
and several times the chairman declined
to o. K. bills unless more progress was
made and the fault for delay corrected
The cost Of the debates was Tut down
at $l5, 700.
The last volume is expected to be ready
for delivery March 10. The convention
adjourned in July, 1902.
J. II. Lindsay received $4,000 for edit.
ing the debates, while the Hermitage
Press has received something like 81 ,00O
for printing The total expenditure to
Jan. .. 1908, is SO, ,20376.
The free lance. (Fredericksburg, Va.) 1885-1926, 1908-02-29
THE DEFENSE RESTS
Commonwealth in Capitol Case
Calls RebuttaI Witnesses.
LEWIS AGAIN DlSCREDITEO
Typewriter Experts Testify That Sam
pie Sheets CT Quantities Book and
Huston's Letter Were Writtea Upon
Same Typesriter.

Harrisburg Pa. Feb. 27-The de
Tense In the conspiracy suit agalnst
Contractor SandcrsOn. former Auditor
General snyder. former State Treas.
urer Mathues and former Buildings
Superintendent Shumaker. on trial In
the Dauphin county court. rested. and
the commonwealth BEGAN calling Wit.
ncssos in rcbuttal
The testimony OF the defense was
confined TO that # Snyder. two furni-
ture experts. Sanderson's bookkceper.
five clerks under Snyder and large
number Of character witnesses for the
former state officers Snyder Is the
only defendant who was called as a
witness and Sanderson Is the only
defendant who called no character
Witnesses.
The greater part OF the session was
taken up with The testimony OF char.
actor witness s.. none Of whom were
cross examined by thc commonwealth.
These Witnesses included judges. law
ycrs farmers. merchants and profes-
sional men living at the homes OF the
former state officers
Two typewriter experts were called
by the defense 10 discredit Stanford
b. Lewis assistant to Architect Hus.
ton. Lewis had testified that the sam.
pie sheet of the quantities book was
prepared and given him by Snyder
and that the quantities book was pre-
pared In Hustcn's Office. The experts
testified that both papers and also the
grflrfnu1 of TTHfHHHrsfe 1.fF.v 70
Attorney General Carson were writer
upon the same typewriter
Lewis was further discredited by
Charles J. Duney OF Harrisburg. the
hookkcepcr of the department oi
| department OF grounds and buildings
under Shumaker. Dufey testified that
he made up the special furnishina
schedule upon which Sandcrson was
given his contract. and that items q
to Al were given him by Huston These
items include all item numbers upor
which sandorson WAS paid. and. &C
cording 70 Lewis were put In the
schedule by Shunakcr
The comronwoclth will call in r.
| buttal furniture experts 10 show the
actual value OF the furniture supplied
by Sandcrscn They viii also cal
Sanderson's sub-ccntractors TO show
the contractors profit upon the scnat,
and house rostrums and certain Other
articles OF furniture. SandersoE's
profits averaged from $50 to 1000 PEI
cent according TO the testimony OF
the sub-contractors before the capito
Investigation commission.
The defense claims the state canno
so back of Sanderson's contract an,
will make an effort to keep out thii
testimony.
The free lance. (Fredericksburg, Va.) 1885-1926, 1908-02-29
0vERTAXED
Hundred of Fredericks-
burg Readers Know
What it Means,

The kidneys are overtaxed;
Have too much to do.
They tell about IL in many aches and
pains
Backache, sideache. headache,
Early symptoms of kidney ills.
Urinary troubles, diabetes. Bright's
disease follow.
A Fredericksburg citizen tells here
certain cure.
H. Carter Honey, living at 523 A St.,
fredericksburg, Va, says: There Is no
doubt that Doan's Kidney Pills are
most effective medicine for kidney CON-
plant, as have used them myself and
know Of Others who have taken them
and never has there been q case that has
not been benefited by their use. | suf-
fered terribly from pains 10 my back
which knew were caused by my kidneys,
for at the same time there was dis
order and irregularity OF the kidney
action, which plainly proved this. The
secretiOns were dark in color, full OF sed-
ment and hard TO retain, especially at
night. The attacks Of pain were some
times so acute that | was unable to
stoop or lift, and mornings would be
so lame and sore dreaded getting read,
for work. All day long there was a
no rest for me. This was enough to
break up the constitution Of an iron man
and soon began to run down in health
When learned OF Doan's Kidney Pills,
got a box at Goolrick's Drug Store and
must state that their effect was magical
The pains and aches soon left my back
and was no longer troubled with lame
ness or stiffness. The urine became
regular in action and restored to a
natural color. This was ia 1902 that
first used Dosn's Kidney Pills and am
pleased today to state that the cure re-
maiDed permanent. Ihave recommended
the remedy TO a great many people and
they all speak highly OF it"
For sale by all dealers. Price so cents
Foster-Milburn Co, Buffalo, New York
sole agents for the United States.
Remember the name-Doan's-a
take no other.
The free lance. (Fredericksburg, Va.) 1885-1926, 1908-02-29
FREDERICKSBURG va, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY &C. 1905
CAROLINE

Bowling GFesn, Va Feb. 26th.

Bowling Green, Va Feb. 26th.
Misses Florence GravAtt ard Virginia
Gresham entertaiued the students and
faculty Of the Seminary Monday night
at sugar stew, which was thoroughly
eiilyed.
Niss Nellie Borum, who has been
tesrhing at Sparta. has returned to her
aome bere, her school having been closed
= month on accunLt Il smallpox
Mrs. W. u. Cobb of Washington, Is
eNis ct,d on Saturday. and will spend
seine time with her parents. Mr. and
Mr.. Mrs W. g CoRhli at Milford.
Mrs {. II. Ryland, of Richmond, spent
several days with the family of DR.. W.
l. Broaddus.
Mr. and Mrs W. Ennis and Miss
Nellie BUrum will so to Richmond to
day To hear Madam Calve sing
Miss Pearl SmOOt. who is teaching In
the family OF MIR. Maxwell Rroaddus.
near Sparta. spent Saturday and Sunday
~ her home here.
Mrs. ID. Is. Powers. Jr, OF Port Royal.
was IN town this week enroute to Rich
mond
We are glad to report that Mr.. ]. l.
JOurdan, who has been very sick at bis
home near here, is now able to sit up.
Mesdames +. c. MOncure and L. b.
Gill have returned from a short visit to
relatives in Richmond.
Calvary aud Bethel Baptist churches
have extended a call TO Rev. c. X. Cruik-
shank, Cf Singers Glen, but he has not
replied as yet Mr.. Cruikshank preached
at Calvary about two weeks ago and
made favorable impression on all who
heard him. IL Is hoped he will accept
Mr.. Roper Raines. of Richmond, spent
SUNDAY with his parents, Major and
/ Mrs. W. W Raines
Mr.. t. B. Gill has returned from q
business trip 10 Baltimore.
| Mrs Kate RichersOn passed through
town enroute TO her home at sparta
The many friends of Mr. Frank Richer
son, Of Sparta. will be sorry TO learn OF
bis illness at his home. and hope for his
speedy pcovery.
The free lance. (Fredericksburg, Va.) 1885-1926, 1908-02-29
CONGRESSIONAL

The House Committee on Agriculture
has agreed to appropriate &250,000 to
continue the fight against the cattle tick
In States OF the South and Southwest
Representative RsndeIl, OF Louisiana,
made a hard fight TO secure an appro-
priation OF double this amount.
Congressman Heflin, OF Alabama, has
introduced bill to place upon the pen
sion rolls the names Of all surviving chill
dren OF the soldiers OF the War OF the
Revolution, the Mexican War. the Indian
wars, the war between the States and
the Spanish American War who, from
mental or physical affliction or disabili-
ty. are unable to earn their support.
The free lance. (Fredericksburg, Va.) 1885-1926, 1908-02-29
BOARD OF AGRICULTURE

There is said to be much feeling over
the action of the General Assembly in
passing the hill TO reorganiEa the Depart
ment of Agriculture. One member, A. r
Scott, OF Henrico, has resigned. and it is
said that three others may do so. The
Commissioner will. after July 1, be IN q
position to name all his clerks and EN-.
ployes without any regard to the board,
while the board will pay it's clerk Just
SlOO for keeping the records Of the meet
ings of the board.