New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1908-08-23

EkE%l great couturiare strolls about as
well as her little assistant: the
x former 10 see for herself the result
tGi of her creations while displaying
W. the greatest Of all. the latter TO
spend her hard earned savings two weeks
holiday. But the most inexperienced observer
could make mistake in the social degree or the
three women sitting at late supper last night at
Maxim's-a German baroness. an Italian countess
anc an English duchess The last, tall and slender
10 degree. seemed built especially for the swath-
ing robe Of white crepe she wore The underskirt'
limp and petticoatless. hung long and plain; the
tunic overdress. crossed the shoulders, tapping
IN the back and front fall at each side in gath
cred ends weighted by long silver tassels- The
corsage. slightly low cut, was OF pleated chiffon
under silver lace; little pleated fans, hung with
tasseis, fell over the shoulders. Her wide hat OF
shirred white chiffon, had its crown twisted with
silver ribbon holding tall feathery aigrettes. AT
one side Of her oorsage was huge rose OF pale
pink silk.
The italian woman, dark and lovely. wore q gown
Of palest rose colored tue. IN princess form The
skirt was split each side. and ali the edges were
embroidered in shallow scallops and large irregu-
larry shaped dots At the top Of the slashes were
placed fat ribbon rosettes, with long hanging ends
so long they touched the floor. The corsage was
oddly arranged and in quite new fashion A fat,
bertha-llke band of the embroidery covered the
shoulders shaping itself into the shortest of tight
sleeves-scarcely more than caps. The lower edge
was finished with a silk ball fringe. There were
breteles the ribbon that after passing over the
shoulders, thrust themselves through sits in the
embroidery, TO nang their tasseed ends below the
waist line: an almost invisible guimpe and long
Uadersleeves were of finely tucked tulle-
The German. who had quantities Of white hair,
beautifully and deliberately dressed all in
g-ay-a vapory smoke gray that deepened and
lghtened marvellously. She was large, and the
soft folds draped show long lines; in front
all sotI and vague. delicious melange Of flmy
lace. lightly sketched embroidery and half hidden
bits of color in pale blue and paler pink. At the
back the funess was gathered into small space
Just between the shoulder blades under silver
ribbon that sloped toward the front, then disap-
peared, its object being, apparently, merely to &C
cent the line. Her hat, OF fine gray straw, was
faced with shrred pink tulle and trimmed with
masses OF gray and white ostrich feathers
FOR THE GRAY HAIRED WOMAN.
For gray haired women such toilet is marvel
lousy becoming. It TO soften angles. to con-
ceal the presence of overnuch flesh, and to shade
fncipient wrinkles And with pale gray the delicate
shades Of pink, blue pale mauve give youthful
tinge the skin that quite compensates for prema
grayness. A second gray gown, noticed that
night at the klIrsaaI, worn by pale blonde
of gray tulle. hung white tuIle sprtnkled
with silver pailettes. The corsage had unusual
distinction by OF a great bow of deep royal
blue velvet placed side Twined in the soft
folds of her hair matching ribbon.
With all the of the world strolls at
certain hour Of the day before the attractive win
dows of the smart shops. Such a stunning gown
Of blue serge was reflected the plate glass win
dows of antiquarian the other day. It in
evitable that must turn 10 look The short
skirt hung perfectly limp and straight. but with
plenty Of fulness at the hem and quite plain Over
this was a princess tunic half long, and open in
front An extremely wide g1rdle of black satin
loosely adjusted. pulled up high under the bust,
and below the waist line into soft, dull point It
fastened at one side under long up and down bow
N that hung tasselled ends of uneven length; one
reached the hem Of the skirt other stopped half
way. The sleeves were of the material, tight TO
the arm. and buttoned even closer from the elbow
10 the wrist Here they fared the hand and
were finished with frills OF narrow lace: the hands
We're hidden to the knuckles The top of the bodice
was covered by an odd little Directoire cape II
went straight across the hack reaching Just below
the line Of the shoulders; high Directoire collar
OF black velvet turned back widely in front and
buttoned with one button the chest, iaring apart
below The edges were soutache with the same
shade The high collar and the chemisette that
showed in front of white linen plainly tucked
and cravatted with black The hat of quite enor-
nous circumference of fine blue straw trimmed
with wreath of large black peoples with long
waving pistils; the umbrella was of dark blue AS
the high wind, that blows constantly here svyaved
her soft skirts glimpsed the stockings. striped
in two shades Of blue and the patent leather shoes
with dark blue vamps The latest word in stock
ings is the striped variety For gray evening
costume gray silk stockings striped with gray
TO be worn with slippers of gray suede. For day
time wear with black patent leather shoes are
Stockings striped black and white
FIRST AUTUMN HATS
Scarves continue to play important role among
the accessories Of the toilet Taken I'D first as q
fad, they have become necessity TO protect the
shoulders and arms from the cold. for even gowns
fer afternoon wear show only transparent tuIle
for the guimpes and long sleeves The painted
scarves are adorable. and, the expense not being
great IL is possible 10 order them to match favor
lite gowns Neck ruches Of infinite variety
The Tnodish woman seeks TO mark own by
individual touch: in its thickness its height
the disposition of the bow that fastens it. in
length Of the ribbon ends. often the last hang
nearly TO the hem Of the skirt.
To maintain tn spotless appearance Of the lin
sere accessories Of the toilet stocks guinpes
cuffs and rabats, it is necessary to have unlin-
tied supply. From the t.mid little ruche less than
an inch high that topped the stock once upon a
time there has evolved that bids lobes
OF The ears It mounts high the hair back
consenting TO lower its only bit allow the
chin freedom Of movement. The return of the fiat
turnover cum OF lace, linen or embroidery is gladly
welcomed. II has such pretty air OF trig smart
ness or a long tight sleeve
For -Bleases of Brussels net there is a perfect
Juror If the net is Of the right quality, it viii
wash like cotton cloth; starch is used in their
doing up. The newest ones for morning wear are
made in clusters Of tucks. alternating wide and
narrow and covering the whole material The
sleeves tucked across set into wide arTnhole.
but Immediately they clasp the closely The
only trimming these simple blouses is the peated
ruche the OF the high stock, the frl 10 fall
over the hands and the pleated jabot. hemstitched
IS round, square diamond shaped and the net is
plain covered with large small dots. The
more dressy net blouses have lace entire deux dis
posed in vertical lines, alternating with tucks or