davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
G0MPERS DEFIES TAFT
Demands That Charges Against
Him Be Proved

CHICAGO, Oct. 20.-Samuel Gompers.
in a speech delivered in Orchestra hall
tonight under the auspices of the Chi
cago federation of labor. defied Secre-
tary Taft to prove charges made
against the labor leader.
IF Judge Taft can point out one
statement which I have made about
him which is untrue will make public
apology and retraction. he said IF
Judge Taft can not do this. he owes me
an apology and similar retraction. And
so long as | retain my manhood and
strength ] shall never secede from nv
right of free speech and a free press.
no matter whether it means liberty or
the JAIL
The labor leader spoke at length con-
cerning the supreme courts rulings on
unfair lists and closed with a eulogv
of William ]. Bryan as the candidate
of the wage earners
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
ANTF-DREYFUSITES
CAMPAIGN CONDEMNED
French Deputies Vote Down
an Attempt to Reopen =
Scandal

PARIS. Oct 20.-By a vote of 43s to
AZ the chamber OF deputies today con-
demned the campaign which the anti
Dreyfusites are conducting against ths
decision in the case Of Major Dreyfuz
handed down by the court OF cassation
in 1906. Pierre Bietry. member from
Finistierre. led in the assault and
caused a violent scene. He was tenn
porarily suspended. Minister of Justice
BRAND. after defending the decision Oe
the court, said the country was sick OF
this scandal and that those who wers
trying to reopen It were making them
selves ridiculous.
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
MANILA VISITED BY
SLIGHT EARTHQUAKES

MANILA. Oct. Accommodating at
10:4S o'clock yesterday morning a se-
ries of light earthquakes We're felt in
Manila at irregular intervals until 40
in the afternoon Only four Of the
numbering about dozen. being merely
recorded by the seismographs at the
observatory. where the instruments =
1,1l 1ontlhueu, 70 elplaes ,l. N loi several hours
no damage was done in the city and
none has been reported from other
places.
Calculations made at the observatory
indicate that the seismic disturbance
was local, its center being close to Ma
Mia. Many persons fed from build
ings during the more severe shocks.
but the populace generally was calm.
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
wARNrNG FOR TURKEY

ST. PETERSBURG. Oct 20.-Russia
has been given to understand from a
Bulgarian source that Bulgaria, al
though doing everything possible for
the preservation Of peace, can not look
with indifference on the military prep
arations of Turkey: that IL mobliiza-
tion is ordered in Turkey. Bulgaria will
be forced to inaugurate military opsr-
ations herself without loss OF time.
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
SIMPLE HOME MIXTURE
CURES RHEUMATISM

The thousands of men and
, women who have felt the torture
of dread rheumatism will be glad
, to avail themselves of the follow
, ing prescription. which will be
, found the most effective remedy
obtaif1able for rheumatism and ali
kindred forms Of blood diseases
which cause pains in the muscles
Joints. lame back, throbbing head
} and general debility:
One ounce Syrup of Sarsapa-
! rilla Compound: one ounce Toris
, Compound; half pint of high
} grade whisky. These to be mixed
, and shaken well and used in
} doses of tablespoonful before
J each meal and at bedtime.
) The ingredients are obtainable
from any we'll stocked druggist
} The kidneys becoming inactive
the poisons which should he
} thrown off are retained in the
} blood and settle in the Joints
and muscles and cause unfold
) suffering This condition, II not
) checked. will lead to even worse
complications of the bladder and
digestive organs.
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
THOUSANDS PERISH
IN GREAT TYPHOON
Storm and Flood Cause Devas-
tation in Several Prov
iuCeS of China

AMOY. Oct. 20.-The damage done in
Thursdays typhoon was much greater
than at first reported. In Chang Chow
5000 houses. including the project s
yamen. We're destroyed, and LOO per-
sons killed. In Lam Cheng. 10 miles
west of Chang Chow, 500 houses were
destroyed and 1900 persons killed.
Five years ago Lam Cheng was
flooded and 5000 were drowned Fiji
teen miles north of Chang Chow three
villages were entirely destroyed in the
storm and 200 persons Were killed.
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
RUSSIA WATCHING PERSIA

ST. PETERSBURG, Oct. 20.-The pro-
posal that Russia Intervene in noFfh-
ern Persia to prevent all OF Persia
falling prey to anarchy and to safe
guard Russia's interests Is considered
by the ministry of foreign affairs TO
be premature. The government does.
however, contemplate taking the neces-
sary measures to protect Russian sub
jects and Russian trade and is about
to send 100 infantrymen to Tabriz
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
GEAR PARDoNs JAPANESE

ST. PETERSBURG. Oct 20.-In re-
sponS9 TO the requests of Japan, En-
peror Nicholas has pardOned the six
sailors who were condemned to death
at Nikolayevsk for attacking the prison
guards The men under sentence were
sailors on the Japanese schooner Miyo
Maru. which was captured by the Rus
slams while seal poaching at the COM
mander islands in Bering sea-
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
LECTURES PLANNED BY
NOTED YALE PROFESSOR
Eastern Scholar, Who Is Recog-
nized as Great Biblical Stu
dent Will Sneak

Professor Charles Foster Kent Wool
sey, professor of biblical literature at
Yale and foremost among the scholars
who are adapting the results of mod
ern biblical research to the needs of
the general reading public. is to de-
liver series of lectures in this CITY
in December. His addresses will be
given under the auspices of the Sunday
school commission of the diocese of
California and will take place in the
parish hall of st. Stephens Episcopal
church in Fulton street near Fillmore
The general subject of the lectures
will be on the aims and methods of
the prophets, priests and .sages Of the
Old Testament times. The lectures
will be given in the evening and are
Professionally set for Monday, Decem-
ber q; Wednesday. December 8. and
Friday, December II. Other lectures
will be given in Oakland and Berkeley.
Professor Woolsey occupies the chair
at Yale founded and first filled by the
late President Harper, subsequently, of
Chicago university.
LABoRERs OVERCOME BY GAs-paniel
Wallace and Albert Sales, Iaborers were over
come by gas yesterday afternoon while working
49, r1%ly
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
roIsrnI REruRNs THANks

ST. PETERSBURG. Oct. 2o-Count
Leo Tolstoi has addressed an open let
ter Of thanks TO all those who con-
graduated him last month on his
eightieth birthday.
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
RAILWAY BUILDER DIES

BUTTE. Mont. Oct 2O.-Riclaar rd
Hayes. who as general foreman for the
Chicago. Milwaukee and St Paul rail-
way built many Of the famous tunnels
and bridges along that line, died In a
local hospital today after an operation
Hayes was one of the noted raiiwav =
constructors of the west.
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
RIFF TRIBES IN REVOLT

MADRID. Oct. 20.-The minister Of
war has received an official telegram
from 1felflia- Morocco. announcing that
ali the Rim tribes had risen and were
uniting with hostile intent.
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21

Charles Eliot Norton has been called
the preacher Of the gospel Of beauty
% America" That was his work as
n A0ofessor Of the history Of art at Har-
|fsr1 university from 1874 to 1895
since then he has been emeritus pro-
fessor OF his subject at the veuers BILE
lambridge institution. and. while re-
teVeo OF the routine work OF class
lectures, he has been active in his criti-
cal works and has continued TO be a
vital factor in developing the thought
of the day
Professor Norton was in a measure
q bridge between two periods of cul
ture- He was the friend of Emerson.
1-ongfellOw. CARLYLE and Edward Fitz-
gerald in one generation. with Lowell
kuskin and George William Curtis Of
smother period. and with William Dean
towels. Henry James and Bryce. His
literary work in great measure was
devoted TO interpretations of his
friends writings and the editing Of
their work. He was an authority on
Dante and on medieval culture.
Professor Norton was born in Cam
bridge. Mass. November Is, 1927. At
one time he was editor Of the North
American Review
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
cHoLERA IN RUSSIA

ST. PETERSBURG. Oct. 2o.-The "a
hours ending at noon today saw IS new
cases Of cholera brought into the mu-
nicipal hospitals. There were q deaths.
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21

Grand entertainment for ST. Mary's
college gymnasium tomorrow (Thurs-
day. night at Dreamland rink, Steiner
near Sutter.
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
INSPECTING SANTA FE LINES

A. c. Wells, general manager Of the
Santa Fe. arrived here yesterday on a
tour of inspection OF the coast lines.
He is accompanied by I. L. Hibbard, p.
L. Wfeks and A. G. Beaman
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21

TsIl goods Just in. Koenig Shoe Co.,
Kearny and Post. 1541 Van Ness av.
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
CHARLES ELIOT NORTON
IS DEAD AT CAMBRIDGE
Was a Well Known PhiIan.
thropist, Scholar and Member
OF Harvard Faculty

CAMBRIDGE, Oct 2I.-Charles Eliot
Norton, the well known philanthropist
and scholar, for many years a member
~ the Harvard faculty. died at 1.45
o'clock this morning ct his home in this
city.
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-21
Do You want $500.

Read THE CALLS weekly offer on
page IL.
The sun., 1908-05-10

hemmed. edged with valenoiennes or I'm
ished with a very tiny fril Of the net gives
excellent results. Big soft bows Of net
sometimes attaining exaggerated si1e are
also worn to All in the low cut coat fronts
and are newer than the jabot, but the latter
IL the Partisan choice.
With some coats the frills must run
quite to the waist. with others short frill
Is best. but frill Of some kind one must
ordinarily have, and since these things
must be absolutely fresh this item means
considerable initial expenditure In money
and much bother In the laundering.
The vaistooat, too is an important item
in the seasons outht-but Of that We will
speak In another place,
Liberty satin is. % The Sun prophesitd
last fall, q material much in vogue for the
coats Of this spring season. and indeed for
the entire costume, but the separate coat
Of black satin has been 20 quickly taken
up by the manufacturers and % abused
that French women are putting 1t aside
and conhning their satin coats TO garments
On suite A skirt Of sheer material. siIk
wolfe. mousseline. or what one will. 40
OOmpanied by q GOAT Of soft liberty. With
out very high finish and matching the
The sun., 1908-05-10

usually Of sash or scarf character rather
than soft girdle without ends.
The soutached coat illustrated In one Of
the small cuts will give a general idea Of
the effect aimed at in this scrrf girdle.
though the adjustment depends upon the
caprice Of the designer and the figure Of
the wearer. Often the wide scarf Of
liberty eatin-most frequently In black
is carried softly around the waist line Of
a short WASTED coat and knotted Just
below the bust, at the left side. long scarf
ends finished with fringe or tassels or
heavy embroidery.
Again, the waist line may be at the natural
point or only slightly shortened. and then
the same girdle arrangement may be used,
or some such graceful disposition Of the
girdle as is used for this soutached coat
may be made. The idea Of the soft liberty
scarf passed around the waist, brought
back and knotted low at tho aide or front
has found favor in connection with frocks
as well as coats and is the greatly modified
version Of the wide Oriental scarf called
the almee. OF which mention was made
here months ago. and which in its extreme
form ia still worn by the audacious
The costume, Of tussor embroidered In
The sun., 1908-05-10

among the dressier costume coats and
separate coats fancy runs riot Never was
there opportunity for greater individuality
and originality in the province Of the coat,
and yet as the Paris season advances a
very definite tendency ismanifest, thread
upon which are strunsa majority Of the
greatly diversified coat models.
The Directoire period has asserted itself
emphatically, and ideas CLEANED from this
period are developed by all Of the great
French dressmakers, sometimes dominat-
ing the whole costume, sometimes toned
down to mere suggestion Of picturesque
possibilities. Friends write us OF having
seen at the racetracks round about Paris
and in the various fashionable rendezvous
Of that city many costumes almost purely
Directoire, with short wasted coats cut
sharply away just below the bust In front
and slop!ng 20 lopg. tails in the back. with
collars high at back and sides, with huge
revers and wide cuffs and with scant cling
ing princess skirts slightly draped
These OF course are the extremes, but
details from such costumes are introduced
upon models more coossRativef Fer ,e1-
ample, though the high Directoire collar is
TOO uncomfortable in warm weather TO
The sun., 1908-05-10

the srmhole smoothly and finished at bot
tom by turned back cun and frill Of lace
falling over the hand is the smart thing
with the Directoire coat, and apropos Of
this cuh and iril we are reminded Of
striking costume recently turned out from
one Of the greatest French dressmaking
houses. The clinging skirt was Of cloth
In one Of the new blues, the coat Of liberty
In the same blue embroidered ell over In
self color soutache, The sleeve followed
the lines re have just described and ths
Cui was faced with black liberty.
Big Directoire revers were Of white cloth,
but the fat narrow collar running around
the neck was Of black liberty. The coat
sloped away sharply from q point Just
below the bust. where IL was softly girdled
by black liberty scarf knotted at the left
side without pendant ends.
Below this girdle, where the coat fronts
separated widely, appeared q pointed waist
coat Of white cloth. net blouse was
worn under the coat and at the neck was q
high tight draped collar Of black liberty
with q little knot at the LETT side. Over
this collar fell a deep frill Of real alencon,
and similar frills fell over the hands, ....-
This black liberty collar with the deep
The sun., 1908-05-10

attain actual popularity, revers are being
made moro and more prominent by the
famous makers.
The tailor made trotting frook is usually
collarless or equipped with a modest coat
collar and . host Of little wraps and dust
coats, &o., are also collarlesS, but when one
enters the province Of what the French call
the jaoket-the short dressy ooat--one finds
revers assuming definite Importance
Several Of the sketches on this page
will illustrate this point. and dozens more
Of the same type might be added, though
this pronounced Direotoire coat movement
has 80 far been but lightly felt on this side
Of the water and early season importations
we're more conservative, so that we have
been obliged to collect a number Of these
sketches from foreign sources.
The handsome Directoire costume Of
the large cut was worn at one Of the spring
meetings at Longchamps, and though by
no means purely Of its period It is fairly
typical Here the skirt was OF chiffon
broadcloth In the lghtest and supplest.
quality and in the shade Of green which
the French call water green. A band Of
taheta Of the same shade was the only
trimming. all elaboration being reserved
for the coat Of green chiffon tafeta, which
was heavily embroidered In white silk
Four handsome enamel buttons orna-
meuted the front Of the dTaped girdle, and
beautiful old lace crossed in surplioe
fashion inside the reyes. The draped
girdie worn outside Of tho coat is one Of
the late spring fads and appears not only
upon such models as the one just described
but upon coats Of various types, being
The sun., 1908-05-10

soutache and girdled with black liberty,
TO which we have referred by way Of illus
tration, is a remarkably chic model, eIhib-
iting many Of the latest fashion character
istios Tlssor is Of course one Of the mOdish
materials par excellence this season, and
the French give preference TO a soft and
rather heavy silk much less rough OF sur
face than our domestic tussoU.
Soutaching usually in self-oolor, is as
popular ss ever. The sleeves Of this coat,
II will be observed. are almost close fitting,
and this is the case with all coats Of the
Direotoire type, One might say that il
is the case With all coats not OF the flowing
draped order.
No one thing stamps a frock or coat as
out Of date more distinctly than docs a
broad shoulder and full sleeve top. Even
when sleeves are ample and armholes
large the shoulder line runs down into the
sleeve top without fulness. and very often
shoulder and upper sleeve are cut in one.
or II the armhole seam Is not eliminated
II is concealed by some fat trimming.
Tho coat In question has the three-quartOr
sleeve length. and throughout the summer
even the most extreme Of the French makers
will turn out shortened coat sleevesior many
dressy costumes; but the day Of the long
sleeve iS coming surely though slowly, and
not all the efforts Of the glovsmaking fra
ternity can stave II on much longer. The
long transparent sleeve is a very consider
able factor In the fashions now on view in
Paris, where the season is approaching
high tide and many long sleeyed coats are
worn as well.
The long tight fitting coat sleeve set into
The sun., 1908-05-10

laos frill has taken . great hold on the
fancy Of Parislans and lS eminently ohio
when II happens TO be becoming, which
is not always tho Oass. The satin OraVat
is knottsd in front more often than at the
back, and where much fulness around the
neck is not becoming the knot may be dis
pensed with altogether.
The crAvat Of black liberty In one form
or another is one Of the seasons fads In
Paris, and where the collar is Transparent
and high, without the deep frill Of lace. this
black cravat ls usually narrow, passing
around tho base Of the throat and tying In .
bow which finishes the top Of the almost
inevitable jabot, rabat or other frilly thing
In lingerie, net or lace,
One cannot talk Of the modish coats this
season without turning aside 10 discuss
neck frills, for often half the effect OF the
coat depends upon the neokwear worn
with 1t, and much Of this neckWear IL de-
signed solely to accompany the coat, being
quite out Of place when the coat iS removed.
Jabots we're sure to come in with dinsotolre
modes, and we now have jabots Of net, oi
lace Of lingerie in all forms and at all prices,
but II one cannot AFFORD 10 spend much for
these little accessories one would better
be content with net. for the first rule with
regard to such neckWear Is that II should b
fine, dainty, Immaculate and these things
are achieved in net more oheaply than In
lace or In lace trimmed lingerie.
The richest OF fine old lace is worn with
handsome coats by some women who can
AFFORD Il. and null or bstiste trimmed with
real valenoiennes or Irish is much esteemed,
but the fine net--and It must be fine-simply
The sun., 1908-05-10
THE WEDDING TOLL
PAID BY Bride and Bridegroom IN RurL
England.
From n. london olaadsra.

From the London StaAdord.
The village Of Blackwell has Just Witnessed
the revival Of the old somersetshirs custom
known as wedding toll.
This consists OF stretching q rope across
the road Gs the bride and bridegroom are re-
before they are allowed to pass. young
Londoner who was proceeding with his bride
10 her home thus found the pathway OBJ
Structed, toll heing asked and cheeRully given
on four different occasions.
The revival Of the custom brought together
q large number OF the residents Of the district,
and the newly married couple received quitG
an ovation as they passed down the village
street.
The sun., 1908-05-10
With the Difeetoire Ideas IN
.- First Place.
EVEN TAILOR MADES AFFECTED
While Fancy RunS Riot In the
DresSier Costumes.

Many Costumes Almost Purely DireetOIrs
Seen In ParlS-ReVers Becoming More
and More Prominent Scarf GIrdle
One Of the late Spring Fads-The Long
sleoVe Returning surely Though Slowly
Meek Frills Called FOr-Satln COats
Much orn-DeIIEhtful Costumes Of
white Serge skirts With COIOrod Serge
COatS-RuttOns Are Plentfully Used.
The day Of monotony In coats ia past
and this season even the severest Of tailor
madss show considerable variety, while
The sun., 1908-05-10

coat In blue tussor With big 'rsvers and cuhs
Of Venise and black satin folds for trimming,
and this coat was worn with q skirt Of blue
cloth but the original model from which
this costume was copied had q coat OF gray
and black tilssor In wide stripes over akirt
OF the reddish pink known as oraie.
And. while we are discussing coat and skirt
costumes displaying decided color contrasts
the white serge skirts with oolored serge
coats deserve mention. Some really de-
Ightful things Of this sort are shown, and
though some Of the French models have
coats Of somewhat vivid hues-Emplre
green, CRAZE. &o.-there are blue and white
models which need not appall even the con-
servatives
One such suit We have included among
the subjects Of the sketches, and the original,
though not extraordinarily expensive. being
merely a copy Of an imported model and
offered ready made. had an extremely smart
air, The gored skirt was Of white serge
with no trimming save a wide band cot on
In tunio fashion.
The coat was Of hne navy blue serge
and excellent In cut and line. Buttons ooV-
cred with navy blue satin fastened the
fronts and were set on the pockets and
sleeves, the standing COLLAR was satin coV-
cred, with serge border, and whore the coat
The sun., 1908-05-10

SKIRT IN color, Il . costume very generally
worn. and the satin coats are used. too,
With skirts or princess frooks Of mixed
FOollsns or nousselines stripes, checks
barred effects in two oolorS. one Of which
d repeated In tho satin coat,
Satin coats In fashionable light tones
sometimes tribe vivid, are made for wear
ever lingerie frookS and other sheer sum
The sun., 1908-05-10

was cut away slightly In front a soft blue
satin girdle showed at the waist line and
fell In long scarf ends down the left front
heavy tasselled ornaments finishing the
fall Of the scarf.
Another costume shown In the same
shop had the skirt Of white serge with q
wide band Of the serge running around
the bottom and narrow fold Of delicious
fniity grayish red serge heading this band.
The coat was Of the ned serge, collarless and
cut away 1t did not meet even at the bust
line, but the fronts were held there by three
folded straps Of black tafeta and talieta
covered buttons.
Buttons, satin covered or silk covered.
are plentifully used on almost all Of the new
coat and skirt costumes. In many cases
long close fitting sleeves button all the
way from shoulder to wrist, as in the tail
feta coat sketched for the central cut.
The new coats, usually OF irregular line
around the bottom, are often opened up
on the sides and back, and this ohers an
opportunity for the use OF buttons and
simulated buttonholes along thsse slash.
ings. Buttons are used on the cuffs when
they do not extend throughout the sleeve
length, on pockets. at the waist line. In the
back wherever they may be placed efec-
lively. But these buttons. be IL remembered,
are in the color OF the coat
The lines Of the cutaway and the shaping
The sun., 1908-05-10

Hsr frooks, and cloth coats Of SimilAF type
are made for = like purpose. A beautiful
costume recently imported has = skirt Of
Uay and white striped silk mousseline,
and 4 DirVctoire coat Of cloth in one Of the
exquisite pinkISh reds, with waistcoat. big
revers and cu6 facings Of pompadour silk