Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-09-13
Clipped from "Dress."


To wear when the first cool days are sound
ing the knell of the summer season there is moth
ing more satisfactory than the well-cut new tailor
suit 1t is really essential in these days to have by
early September street costume bearing all the
latest hallmarks to don when the summer ward
robe is beginning to display the tel-tae signs OF
the seasons festivities. In such costume the
woman who never forgets the importance of
smart gowning can enjoy the knowledge that she
is correctly groomed while she is waiting for the
final verdict of the fashion dctators regards the
more elaborate toilettes.
The handwriting on the wardrobe door spells
Directoire. Not the extremes OF the Directoire
period, which have given so much material for the
space writers of the newspapers, but the details
of that particular mode, many of which are de-
lightful in their picturesqueness although when
we come to the more elaborate tailored costumes
we see the hallmarks of the Louis. XIV period, of
which we spoke last month. There is however,
not very clear distinction between the details of
these two periods and in one costume see both
periods blended, with little regard to any histori
cal accuracy.
The shoulders, which we have been building
out with kimono-lke effects, are now growing
narrower, seeking to resemble the proportions of
the dandifed court ladies and gentlemen of Louis
reign. The frills at wrist and throat have grown
familiar to us through the pictures of this period,
and the long, close sleeves and big pockets, much
trimmed, are likewise seen on all the costumes
OF that time
The lines of the coat follow the Directoire,
lending height and slimness to the silhouette.
Many of these coats are very long, reaching to
within eighteen inches of the bottom of the skirt,
while the average length is several inches below
the hips, this length depending somewhat on what
is becoming to the wearer. The coat may be sharp
y cut away, leaving only swallowtail effect in
back, reminding one for all the world of a mans
dress suit, and, in fact. it is borrowed from the
dandies of the 1ncroyable period. Or it may boast
of the pointed fronts and back, which are invaria-
bly, becoming 1t may even follow the lines of the
regulation coat, with square slightly rounded
fronts but whatever it is, it is long. Another new
concet is to cut the coat with seamless sides. And
it may be plain as pipe stem or deliberately
braided and bebuttoned.
Stripped of its sensational features the sheath
skirt bids fair to be the skirt of the winter. 1t is
particularly adapted for the fabrics appropriate
for winter use soft broadcloths and velvets, and
the neutral materials such satin, crepe de chine,
silk cashmere mirage, tussah and others which
are possible through all the months. On many of
these long, circular skirts there is absolutely no
trimming reaction from the extensive ornamen-
tation of the recent past while others bands of
the material give tunic effect or buttons afford
just suggestion of adornment When the side
slashings, almost synonymous in many minds
with Drectoire, are shown fanlike plating either
of the material, SATIN taffeta or chiffon is inset
giving much the effect of an underskirt peeping
out because the buttons have "carelessly" been
left unfastened.