Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-04-01

-EW modes have taken greater hold
r. upon popular fancy than the jump
L err. and this is because 1t is becom-
ing to the ma jority of women. Possibly
it is not a decided favorite in it's strictly
conventional FORM but 1t is so easily mod
flied that the figure would indeed be diff
cult to suit that could not be made at
tractve in one of these styles.
The jumpers designed for this spring
must match in color the skirt with which
1t is worn. This decree of fashion is an
advantage to the average figure, and a
positive kindness to the short type.
Top Finish Important
In constructing such garment it should
be borne in mind that all jumper models
are not becoming to every figure, and that
the success of jumper depends almost
entirely upon its finish at the top.
There are some women who are long
from neck to bust and short from this
point to the waist line. though not neces-
sarily short-waisted For such figures the
jumper, If cut according to the pattern
will probably be disappointing when fin
ished. for there seems to be a lack of bal
ance; the waist appears to be all yoke.
Still, if the jumper is cut higher over the
bust the idea is lost.
~ OAHU, eltneT sell OF toHtTdSllHS, uCeS
not seem to remedy this defect. but if the
band is made of a fairly transparent fab
ric of the same color as the goods the
change will be pretty.
Trimmings With Dark Frocks.
AS an instance. take a gown of red blue,
brown, etc. dark and perhaps heavy look
ing. and head the jumper with a four-inch
band formed from soutache braid ar
:, Iox< f,-
lay the light yoke. and it will be seen that
a pretty, harmonious effect has been Gre
ated by this simple addition.
This band must be shaped. of course,
and should first be cut from strong paper.
The thin goods should then be sewed to
this design and the basting stitches ripped
away when the work is complete.
Other appropriate materials such as
baby ribbon. velvet or Strappings of silk.
may be- used decoration. For the fig
ure that is long from bust to belt the av-
erage jumper suggests yoke topping a
waist To correct this effect the top of
the jumper may be cut out more. or
wide girdle instead of a narrow one can
be used.
Short-Waisted Figure.
The short-wasted figure must content
herself with lesser display of guimpe
than the longer-waisted type, for she
needs length.
Her jumper should be cut out in long.
narrow "V," and the material on the
shoulders should meet the collar band,
preferably tucked or folded, the lines be-
ing preserved until they lose themselves
in the belt.
For the stout or broad-shouldered as
we'll as short-waisted woman it will be an
Improvement if Tvs" are taken out from
each shoulder, back and front, displaying
the guimpe between.
About "V's" in Jumpers.
They should not be as deep as the center
''V," and must be arranged midway be-
tween shoulder and armhole.
This breaks the width; at the same time
the long line is preserved.
On the other hand, the tall spare or
slender figure must aim for entirely differ
ent effects. She needs breadth, and so a
deep. wide, round yoke will be her best
possible choice. This should display plenty
of guimpe on the shoulders.
Now, as to the fullness at the top of the
jumper perfectly fiat finish, the slight
figure will find the shirred, babylike bod
ice the more becoming.
The medium woman may adopt the per-
fectly plain top, but as a straight line Is
unbecoming to any figure. it should be
slightly scalloped on the edge.
Fullness in Jumper.
A stout figure may choose this model if
she will allow for fullness at the under
arm seam; otherwise the result will be
straight up-and-down effect.
When the bust is quite large it is ad-
visable to take the jumper above the edge
Of the bust, combining with a narrow band
and tucking the garment vertically for
few inches before setting on the band.