The San Francisco call., 1908-07-19

popularity ana alLLdIlS many -eNA-~S-
mans Mr. and Mrs. Daniel T. Murphy
Of san Francisco entertained several
friends at dinner there last week be-
fore leaving for London.
Its unique situation, overlooking the
Tuileries gardens, evOkes memories OF
NAPOLEON 1 as does no other quarter
of Paris. To the left is the Louvre,
with the Arc du Carrousel, erected in
commemoration Of the victories of 1905
and 1903 while beyond are the towers
OF Notre Dame cathedral, where the
coronation took place. To the right,
far up at the end of the Champs Ely
sees. looms the other and larger arc,
called rEtoile, erected to commemo-
rate the victory Of 1906, while there,
10 the south, CLEANS the gilded dome
under which Napoleon I rests, silent,
crushed by an overweening ambition,
leaving to history the greatest name
Of the world
While all the restaurants of all
classes follow the custom of the coun-
try OF serving most Of the meals in
summer time out OF doors, the smarter
ones in the gardens and more modest
ones on the sidewalk or tiny arbors.
this is the first real roof garden of
Paris.
NEW STYLE FOR SKIRTS
They say the new skirts are to be
only two and a quarter yards around
If this be true how are we to walk
all liberty Of action gomez So far
they have allowed US for summer wear
linen and other cotton material skirts
Of FIVE and six yards. Everything in
this line. by the way, hangs limp, no
starch being used in the doing up"
The hats I have seen lately, when
driving in the Bois, seem covered with
a forest OF plUmes and aigrettes which,
despite the real summer days of hot
weather. continue to be the style.
The inevitable "echarpe" is no long
er used to exclusively wrap the should
ers. but is employed in many other
charming ways on the dress and cloak.
Two particularly graceful examples of
this oraped scarf attracted my notice
one afternoon this week while taking
tea at the Elysee Palace hotel.
One was g white foulard, with small
cherry colored spots. The long skirt
was trimmed at the edge with a triple
bias Of white taffetas. The corsage
was full over a guimpe of white spot
ted tulle, with incrustations of Nene-
tian lace. A white crepe de chine
"echarpe" was crossed over the bust
and passed over the hips to the back.
crossed and brought over to the left
side, where il was loosely knotted
and allowed TO fall to the hem of the
skirt, where it was edged with a rich
silk fringe.
The other costume was Eipe wheat
cOlOred IN princess style and very
clinging. The guimpe was in finely
tucked Brussels tulle. A double ruche
OF the same tulle made up on a black
satin ribbon encircled the throat. I'm
der the decolletage of the corsage a
narrow black satin scarf was wound,
a wider scarf being draped around the
hips and brought up TO the waist line
and knOtted, falling at the back in
stead of at the side.
COSTUME OF FANCY STYLES
For tussor costumes all sorts Of
fancy styles are INDUCED in to relieve
the monotony Of the long or short
coat. For instance, some are so braid
ed and soutached and stitched with
cloth bands that but little of the tus-
Gor is seen. while others are cut away
g., front almost to the underarm and
open over the hips and slit up twice
at the back from the waist line and
are so long that they fall almost
TO the edge Of the train Of the long
skirt. Others. again, are cut perfectly
straight in front and are quite un-
trimmed, and the only note of original
ity lies in the two front lapels being
brought right round to the back and
fastened with three large buttons.
which gives the impression that the
front Of the coat was in the way of
the wearer and so had TO be pinned
back
A prettier style than either Of these
IS 10 have the underarm seam and the
back seam from the arm downward
slit up and held together by narrow
velvet bands OF wide soutached braid
When this style is carried out in white
with bands Of the palest gold, the ef-
feet 10 most graceful and young look
ing.
Parasols for men? Well. looking at
the suggestion dispassionately, why
not2 If some great parsonage, the
king of England. for instance, who
started the vogue Of wearing gloves
turned back on the hand and. who.
when his foot was slightly injured,
limped in walking for some time and
was Immediately taken as the author
ity for men of fashion in England to
appear IN public limping slightly, were
persuaded to carry a parasol at some
fashionable function for men of fash
ion and later others would at once
follow suit and a great addition to the
comfort Of life would be thus assured,
but until that happens men will go on
suffering from heat in habituaI silence.
In tropical countries it is quite the US
ual thing for men TO carry sun UNI
brellas. Verify, the everyday life holds
opportunities OF courage far greater
than any battlefield.
DOINGs OF AMERICANS
Mrs. Spencer Eddy has returned
from Chicago and is visiting her
mother, Mrs. c. August Spreckels, at
her apartments near the Bois. Mr.. and
Mrs. Eddy and their little son Will
leaYe soon for Mr. Eddy's new diplo-
matte post in South America.
Mrs c. August Spreckels intends 90
ing TO Carlsbad at the end of the
month for stay OF several weeks.
Mr.. and Mrs. William c. Irwin and
Miss Helene Irwin Of San Francisco.
who have been in Paris for some weeks.
will leave for Carlsbad shortly.
Mr.. and Mrs. George A. Pope and
Mrs William II. Taylor Of San Fran
cisco also will leave soon on an auto
mobile trip with Carlsbad as their OBJ
jective point. From all accounts this
popular resort will be crowded with
Californisns this summer
Mr.. and Mrs. Mclean Of San Fran
cisco are leaving Paris this week for
AK les Bains.
mrs r. Frey and Miss E.SFrey of
can Francisco are in Riva
Mr. and Mrs. William Sproule re-
<lrned to London this week and sailed
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