Omaha daily bee., 1908-06-21
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SLEEVE
DESIGNS.

view Of securing Just the correct sweep.
the artistic folds.
However. all this is another story. For
today the new sleeve is our theme, and the
new sleeve in many Of its phases IL full Of
possibilities for the made over bodice.
If one were to generalize ~sweepingly one
would merely say that the modish sleeve
defines the lines of the arm more clearly
than did the sleeve of yesteryear. Even
where the sleeve is a draped affair with
soft full folds the Guitar line of the arm Is
in evidence and nothing save a full, bout
FAINT skirt will make a frock look 30 out of
date as will the larger puff sleeves which
seemed to us very moderate In size a
twelvemonth ago.
Where the single puff is used. as In the
average lingerie blouse and in many sim
pie cotton frocks, this puff is only full
enough to correspond with the negligee
type of blouse. 1t is not enough now, as
1t was last summer. to altar an old sleeve
by turning 1t upside down, with the fullest
part at the top rather than bagging at the
bottom. one must radically diminish the
top fullness as we'll.
In the coats and tailored costumes this
change Is very pronounced. The dropping,
well defined shoulder line is emphasized.
and even where the sleeves are enormous
and partake of the Japanese character the
size Is in the armhole. the fullness Is un-
der and across the arm and the shoulder
line and outer arm are cllnging. In many
Instances this effect is secured by cutting
the upper part of the sleeve or the outer
part of the sleeve in one with the yoke or
body of the coat, but in other models the
correct lines are preserved by flat armhols
trimming and a sleeve set In without full
ness.
In the tailored coat with normal armhole
a sleeve almost close fitting and with a
little fullness at the top OF the armhole
is the generally accepted thing, but many
smart imported suits of the severely tall
ored order have their coat sleeves set in
smoothly like a mans coat sleeve, with no
fullness at all, and in some smart models
even the armhole seam is concealed by fiat
braid or band trimming, which finds an
echo sewher on the coat.
For coats and costumes of dressier char
acter, yet of a certain severity, there are
numerous sleeves fitting the arm quite
closely and formed of overlapping folds
running round the arm, each fold falling
smoothly and clingingly over the one be-
meath il. In such an arrangement the fold
idea is often continued upon the shoulder
of the bodice, so that the line of armhole
demarcation is hardly perceptlble and the
sleeve has almost the air Of being made In
one with the body of the bodice.
one Of the sketches shown mere will illus
trate this point. The model sketched was
a long sleeve fitting very closely well down
over the hand, little buttons and loops
fastening it on the wrist 80 that 1t might
allow the hand to pass through its smallest
part.
similar sleeves in short length are liked.
and o~thers-like another model pictured
among the cuts-have only small tucks
running round the arms in place OF the
deeper overlapping folds. This last sleeve,
in elbow length. with some flat trimming
running around the bottom and up a little
way on the outer seam and with a rather
deep frnl OF mousseline or lace correspond
ing with a jabot filling in the coat fronts
is a favorite for the popular directoire
coat.
One sees deep frills, too. finishing long,
close sleeves and falling over the hands,
but this is a detail too uncomfortable and
impractical to find very general acceptance,
though the touch is often very pretty and
effective In connection with a deep frill
around the. high standing collar or perhaps
front frills.
Many long. close sleeves are buttoned
along the outside seam throughout their
entire length. others have overlapping
scaliops OF points along their outside seam
with a button set in each scalop OF point
One very smart sleeve sketched for this
page was braided In soutache all the way
down the front, the braiding forming points
along the back OF the sleeve and each point
being finished by a pendent tassel.
TIL long. tight fitting. wrtnkled OF
tucked sleeve OF transparent material. sucf
as net. lace or chiffon. has already be
come very familiar and may be either quit
plain or finished by a little fnn or double
frti along the outside seam. This fri
must Of course be widest at the top o.
the sleeve and narrow as II descends. and
IN all cases It must be Of material 50 sot