Bisbee daily review., 1908-05-24

lie wifi begin to learn few things about our business Sorry? Not l.
 l only wish my customers did know
 more. I'd be easy in my mind and so
 would they.
 That's not saying that all dealers
 or all customers would be. There
 are plenty of the former who have taken advantage of the almost ab- soiute ignorance of the average per
 son on the subject of gems. You needn't ask me what things people don't know. I can tell you in
 about three words, though, what they do know. They know that rubies are
 red and sapphires blue. and a few
 half truths of that sort" The jeweler proceeded to tell some of the things which are as a
 sealed book to his customers. He
 began with the form of cut stone He declared that most persons do
 not really know one style of cutting
 from another. They have a vague
 idea that rose diamonds are thin, but that's about as far as their tech nical knowledge goes on that line. The brilliant is the finest form of cutting. It is not always exactly the same. but all the forms of it have
 certain main Features in common
 The front or top of brilliant con
 sists of an eight-sided facet, called
 the table. which is surrounded by thirty-two smaller facets. These
 reach to what Is known as the girdle, the thin edge separating the upper
 part, called the crown or the bizet of
 the stone from the lower part. or pavilion. . Many persons buy these fish eyes
 because the stone looks as if it were
 larger than it really is. As matter
 of fact their lack of brilliancy is so much more conspicuous than any de tail of size that a fishy stone Is a bad bargain at almost any price. AS tor the thick stones. called lumpy by
 dealers, a person simply pays for that much exe weight and after all gets a dead ceptered stone. The American GU. brilliant aas the
 same number of facets as the regular | brilliant, fifty-eight; but the propor- tians are different The twentieth l century is q comparatively new form | of the brilliant cut.
 At first it had eighty-five facets
 and instead of having the table 1t was 1 carried to low point in the center. I IL | tue central ones being almost flat.
 1t is probably best suited to shallow
 stones. whose defects it would help to conceal.
 stones. It Is circular; the front is covered with triangular facets and the back is quite fiat
 n,.f< f.o 4rrex foffF facets, the Brabant rose twenty-four, twelve or six facets, the rose recoupe has tairty-six, the marquise and the pendoloque have twenty-four each and the double rose has twenty-four above and instead of fat baek twen- ty-four below
 Briolettes are peark shaped or oval stones covered with triangular facets and they are generally drilled through the narrow end so that they
 can be worn as pendants. Indian cut is a clumsy form in
 which most stones from that country
 reach Europe. They are cut by the nativs with the sole idea of retain ing as much weight as possible with out regard to the brilliance secured. | They always have to be recut for Europe and America.
 Colored stones if they are cut too 1 thin are weak or black eentered. Color can be distributed only by cut | ting the stone full and deep, though of course if 1t is very dark it must l be made too thick.
 Step cut is the form in which em- erals are almost always cut. It is nearly square or oblong and gener- | ally has large table with straight | facets around 1t parallel to the edges of the stone.
 En cabochon cutting nas a rounded | front and flat back. This is the form for turquoise cateyes, opals | and other opaque stones, but it is 1 sometimes used also or the trans
 parent gems. A carbuncle is simply | 8 garnet cut en cabochon- Diamonds are ground under differ l ent names according to their color. Old mine diamonds were originally | Brazilian stones from the old dig ! gings, but it Is the term now applies i to most old cut diamonds of good co1o..
 Jagers, pronounced Yahgers, is the l trade term for blue-white stones. It
 comes from the fact that the Jargers- I fontein mine produces a great many q -T. l of these bluisih diamonds. Rivers are the purest white stones,
 @o-called because the diggings on the
 River Vaal yielded this type. It is ' @a'd that in general stones from wet
 diggings are better than those from
 dr5.
 Next to Rivers come crystals and
 and top crystals. which finisi up the ! nure white and blue white goods.
 From them on the grades of yellow,
 brown and green.
 The stones which nave the taintest | tint cf yellow ar called Silver Capes-
 Next comes the Capes and then By
 waters. which are decidedly. yellow isk
 Mackle is the name given thin dia-
 monds suitable for rose cutting.
 Naats is another name for them, fiat
 cryetai,.
 Melee is the term for lot oF small
 diamonds; melange for diamonds of
 mixed sizes: chips for pieces of less ! than taree-fourths of a carat when
 taken by cleavage from a large stone.
 Bahisr are Brazilian diamonds from
 the Bahia district, G-olcondas are dia-
 monds from India
 Two of the most common express ! ions in the trade are interesting in the light they throw on the history
 of precious stones. The word Oriental
 has come to be applied to all gems of
 the finest quality. no matter where
 they come from. Less frequently the
 werd Occidental is used to designate l inferior stones.
 This Is due of course to the fact that
 for centuries the supply of precious
 stones came from the east, and also
 10 the Tact that even when new mines