The San Francisco call., 1908-11-22
Fashionable Women Affect
Skirts Split on Side
Princess and Directoire Gowns Are Worn in
Paris With Large Toques Made of Fur
By La Voyageuse

even though they have a little more
support than the "sheathbocker"
affords.
Every woman must follow the fash
ions without slavishness and only as
far as her figure allows. Adaptation
OF prevailing modes will be skillfully
made and while the general rules laid
down will be followed, the most rad
ical dictates of the fashion makers
viii be accepted only by the few. And
yet on those slender mannikins the
most clinging of the models was not
indecent, whatever it might have been
on woman of billowing curves.
At one of the leading dress makers I
saw an ideal gown of white liberty
satin. The skirt opened V-shaped over
a panel of white net, embroidered with
gold sheaves of corn. The tinsel en-
broidery was raised and padded. There
were long sleeves and a guimpe of
gold embroidered net. The bodice was
crossed back and front, the sleeves
being formed of the shoulder draper
les in bretelle form.
crepe de chine of the most lu-
minous paroqnet green was another
beautiful gown. The lining of deep
cream satin made an exquisite con-
trast. The sleeves were formed by
folds Of material on the shoulders and
a large square piece in front was out
lined with satin and finished off with
tassels. At the back two long lines OF
satin fold gave length TO the figure.
A rosette of green satin was placed at
the back of the neck, supporting
high scollar lined with soft cream
chiffon
A dress of old rose liberty satin had
a soft tunic falling over dress of the
same material The bolero or corse-
let bodice. was of embroidered and
braided net of the same color a
rounded piece at the neck was laid
over gold net, framed in gold en-
broidery, and tiny white tulle che
misette. embroidered with floss silk,
formed the neckpiece.
The most beautiful gown of all was
Of Parma satin and gold brocade, on a
foundation of Parma satin. One side
clung to the figure while the other
fell loose. a la Grecque.
Who would have believed it possible
a few years ago that a Wagnerian
opera commencing al s o'clock in the
evening. while the Partisan was quietly
slipping his or her appetizer, before
dinner would attract that world, COM
prising all the notable names of the
new and old aristocracy, and the most
brilliant of the artistic circle known
as tout Paris? Also would induce an
entire change in the otherwise well
regulated program of the day, and
cause the putting on of full dress in
the most complete sense, while yet the
rays Of the setting sun shone on the
long line Of smart equipages drawn up
Before the opera house, rejecting
prisms of light from the tiaras and
jewels worn by its occupants?
The representation of 'Gotter-
damerung" was an event such as
Paris has not witnessed in years.
The novelty of dining in the
rotunda OF the world renowned opera
house appealed strongly to the blase
Parisians. The performance began
promptly at o'clock. At half past
there was an intermission Of one
hour for dinner. Andre Messenger con-
Quoted in A masterly way, and with
Nine. Grandjean (who has been study
ing at Baireuth this summer) as
BrunhiIde and Van Dyck as Siegfried,
was given round after round of ap-
plause. The performances have con-
tinued to crowded houses and, strange
though it may seem, Paris is thor
oughly converted TO Wagner.
rs the ordinary sitting position at
meals harmful" is a question that has
arisen here as result OF the declara-
ton Of a German physician who de-
clares that for reason of health we
should adopt the reclining position at
the table. much as did the old Romans.
Certainly recline at meals said
a well known French doctor to whom
the question was submitted. "and what
is more, get into the habit of occa-
sionally breakfasting in bed. In this
age of rush there is far too little rest
for the muscles and organs. People
tear madly about and are on a strain
all day They stand too much, and,
even when waiting, they are generally
sitting up and the strain is nearly
as great in this position as when
standing.
"The opportunity of reclining should
be taken when possible. The Romans
knew this well, and used couches, not
chairs, at their meals. They knew that
while digestion is going on the body
should be kept as quiet as possible.
More reclining. too, should be done.
The Introduction of lounges in offices
OF businessmen might prove a slim
illus to brain workers"
The news of rush made by the