The sun., 1908-04-26
MEMS FASHIONS IN EUROPE
LONDON RULES THEN All SAVE
IN THE DETAILS.
Italians Among the best Dressed Mon on
tho COntlnent-Freaks OF Clothes IN
GermAny-PAris influence On English
Btyles-NeW York TallOF'O Observation.

ttehhne among tho uest dressed Aion on
tho COntlnent-Freaks OF Clothes IN
GermAny-PAris influence On English
styles-NeW York TallOFV Observations.
The report from London that tailom of
all nations are hocking to BarTits 10 study
the clothes Of King Edward and thereby
to learn London modes ought to satisfy
the patriotism Of the English tailors, yet
It is fact that there are many persons
who have lost confidence In the overwhelm-
ing supremacy Of the London designer.
1t Is not alone In this country that there
isA disposition 10 be 10 degree independent
OF what London has TO say about mems
dress. Even in other countries there is
nolonger slavish adoption Of what London
says 10 night. 1t is true rather that the
fashions Of other countries have in recent
seasons had an undeniabls effect on the
dress Of London.
This is seen more especially In the ten
dency TO wear tighter clothes.
AS matter Of fact said one Of the
New York tailors who follow the plan OF
the dressmakers and 60 twice a year TO
Europe to see the newest Developments
In styles, London tailors would have been
dressing their customers as much like bags
as ever II they had not seen from the models
OF mems dress that came from the Con-
tinent that there was a limit TO looseness
40 Characteristic Of mems dress.
Young men especially came to the con-
clusion that there was somsthing in trigness
and smartness. They saw young men Of
other nations showing how slim and sth-
letio they we're and decided that ii was
not necessary for them to 90 about draped
10 the loose garments that London tailors
considered the only possible kind
'They impressed this fact on their tailors
and the styles changed The SmArteSt
clothes Of the day are rather tight fitting.
That s one eject Of the despised Continental
fashions on London dress,'
This tailor goes into the details Of his
profession with the interest Of a savant
and has just made a tour OF Europe TO
study mems dress. He landed in Naples
when the men had just begun to put on
lighter weight clothes.
Contrary tn the usual impression he
said, the Italians are we'll dressed men,
probably the beat dressed in Continental
Europe
This ! attribute in part to the fact that
Italians are easy 10 ft. They keep their
figures, Corpulence under so iS unusual
among men Of the better class.
THE sack coats we're particularly well
cut. Like the trousers, they differed from
the London styles In that they fitted the
figure somewhat more closely, although
they retain the best trait Of the London
cut 10 fitting tightly over the shoulders
only and not attempting to follow the lines
OF the waist and hips. The coats we're
always cut low enough In the neck to show
part Of the waistcoat.
In Germany there is little or nothing
TO satisfy the American standard Of dress,
unless il is found among the men who are
dressed by the best London tailors. The
wea lthy officers and aristoorats wear Eng
lish clothes and stand therefore in the
class Of the internat tional dressers and
do not count as Germans.
Moderate price tailors in Germany
vie with the most expensive in turning
out appalling specimens OF clothing, Re-
motely they must follow GONE modern
style, but their object seems TO be TO elm
nate every trace Of modishness.
The military cut obsesses every German
iailor, who seems 10 have the idea that
he is making a uniform All German
clothes look like military uniforms gone
wrong
Shoulders are padded to ironlike stih-
hess. Coats are cut 90 close to the body
hat their wearers since the long sack
,oats have become the fashion look like
Iausages or dachshunds. Trousers must
II as tightly as II they were 10 be strapped
Town over the boots.
This military idea floats before the
yes Of every German tailor, whatever
nay be the style Of the year Even dress
Itits are made on the military plan. The
Ihoulders are padded out until they are
,auare and the body Of the coat cut 30
loosely in TO the fg ure that every line is
'evealed, whether or not II happens 10 be !
he kind Of figure adapted 10 such revela-
ions Many Of the officers are Of a phys |
cal type that makes such fit very becom- |
ng. When the round shouldered, paunchy |
,iyilian ia dressed In the same iahe1ible |
ashton the result is not nearly so sue
,essful.
-In Vienna the men are much better |
lressed when they make any pretenoe TO |
ireasing we'll at all. Their clothes follow |
nuoh more closely the London models and /
hey have a suspicion Of the Italian chic In |
heir cut
There Ia much less padding about the
'lothes worn by the well dressed Austrians, |
Who have not the German desire for stifi-
less and primness. Nor do coats NJ so |
lightly as 10 show every curve. Austrians, |
nd one means by them also the men OF |
Budapest, take much more interest in dress
ng than the men Of Germany.
Zone weakness will always prevent the
Germans from being as well dressed as
,ther Europeans or as Americans. They find
90 much delight In any patent contriyance
o save trouble in dressing
aIf they can get anything that saves time
n getting their clothes on they are happy |
they dearly love a ready made neoktie that
maps into place under their collar button
md stays there. They love large plastron
ie that covers q flannel shirt and comes up
o the celluloid collar which looks like
,enulne linen.
sAll these devices they call practical
my race that makes mere practicability
ts ideal in dress can never turn out smart
ookinR men. II Ia curious that q nation
yhich produces the finest looking officers
q the world, the best dressed and the smart
ct in the way they wear their uniforms,
hould possess such dreary looking lot OF
ivilians.
London models prevail in France. and
everal OF the best known tailors in tho
Tcst End have branches by the Seine.
'hese establishments include among their
customers many Frenohmen. Tailors come
,yer every two weeks for fittings.
THE cutters are brought every fortnight
rom London because the Frenchmen feel
hat they are getting the fashions much
nore directly when the cutter does not
make his abode in Paris. These men defer
o the tastes Of their foreign customers In a
ray that has been powerful enough TO affect
he London styles.
SOns m The fret infuencoa In brin0 into