The Birmingham age-herald., 1908-01-19
How to Dress Well With Two Suits The Characteristics of the Dressy I Tailormade The New Colors Paqun Blue, Pre-
 lat, Topaz, Copenhagen The
 Proper Sleeve Length.

Although this is counted by those In authority strictly tailor-made season, there is very marked increase in the num- Der of elaborate coat and skirt costumes presented. This is due to theSfact that the coat costume nowadays has such general use for dressy occasions. For calling, receptions, luncheons and musI- cales 1t Is counted even better style than the costume of light weight fabric to be worn under a separate coat.
 They say that woman may be well dressed this winter in two suits, one severe strictly tailored cloth, preferably striped, the short skirt very simply pleated, and the coat a 30 or 30 inch length and seml-ftted; and the other dressy long skirted costume, the skirt of circular or many gored cut. and the coat semi or three-quarters ntted and half length or longer. This latter type of costume Is very frequently provided with an extremely beautiful and ornate vest, and is otherwise elaborated with braids, buttons, cloth and velvet applica- lions. With the first mentioned of these quits is worn the strictly tailored waist or a simple lingerie waist with an at tached or detached Marie Antoinette Grill. With the second costume one wears a bodice of matching tone, but lighter weight material, say chiffon cloth, lans- downe or silk voile. With these two cos tunes a woman may be well dressed on practically any and every occasion save formal private dinner or a ball.
 The more elaborate tailored costumes usually have the long skirt, although this Is not, imperative. The arrangement of the trimming on the skirts, and on the coats as well, Is an interesting feature this season. Instead of being disposed in scroll like lines as for several seasons past, we find the braids and applications arranged in rectangles and various de signs having many right angles. Sou tache. in combination with wide fiat braids, is markedly present in these dressy costumes. new and wider soutache ia taking the lead. This is ex- tremely rich looking, particularly when used. as 1t frequently Is, in large quanti- ties.
 combination of two different weights of fabric of the one color is often used in the elaborate coat costumes. In this case the different weights of cloth would form the trimming, with perhaps touch VI foSc Sh tHipASAbEAJ. hCic iS uU trimming used where various fabrics are combined in one model. The fabrics chosen for dressier tailor are those that readily fall into graceful lines,-the silky broadcloths, light weight velvets and soft widewale fancy serges. Roth the broadcloths and serges are shown in charming new striped effects. We have 80 long accepted serges and broadcloths as coming only in plain and solid colors, that to find them in stripes and melange ground and in all combinations of colors is certainly a novelty. A large percent age of the colors Of the dressiar types of tailor-mades are dark. To be sure there are charming tones called topaz, blondine and pominos that range light but these nre small percentage compareA with tbe bronze greens, the prelat and the new Paquin blues.
 word about these two latter colors. The prelat or purple has been shown in Paquin models this past summer fre- gently combined in charming fashion with details fin pale blue. These purple tones are extremely rich. The brighter shades of them are not likely 10 have great vogue. Indeed, we might look for their early disappearance from the realm of the well-dressed. They are too glaringly vivid for general wear in public. The darker and richer tones that contain much black and are rather oil the plum tinge than purple are shades that will survive the early fall among well-dressed people. PaQuin blue, as it Is called, Is a very beautiful shade. It is a blue blue without tinge of purple or pink or yellow fin it. Even more than the purple it Is put forth by the great French master of designs. In his models this shade of blue invari- ably has some trimming in black. In fact,