The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-27
MANS EVERYDAY SACK COAT
AUTUMN DRESS or TEE NEW
YORKER IN BUSINESS.

Free Thls Season From Extrayaganee IN
cut Or MateEiai-BFown the Pre'
dominating C~eioF-Lnes 81 TreuseEo
and Waisteost-Corfect Cata~ays.
Perhaps Il Ia the sack cost that inter
ests tho well dr. sssd New Yorker more
than I'M other garment. That 10 the ooet
he o mcst frequently. 1t In the
business dress Of nearly every new
Yorker, whether no be o clerk or the
president Of a trust company.
II 10 no uncommon thing indeed to
sse a young man who has attained or
inherited o conspicuous pest In business
20 to his office in q frock boat or o out
away deliberately braided. but the eaok
suit Is 90 much the symbol OF business
here ca the blous, In the Chamber OF
Deputies In Paris 10 the outward n
visible slgn Of tho w~orlingnan's party,
go II 10 pleasant to leern that this
popular gapment will this ssason be free
from any e~xtravaganos 10 out or ma
tcrial. Brown is again the prevailing
autumn color. Just a. gray predominateo
all summer. The alienation OF these
two colors seems almost inevitable.
The browns this year show the usual
variety. There are the smooth, ara
finish cheviots in various shades, the
herrinsbone stripes, the shaggier oassi-
meres, checks outlined by pin hnes OF
red, blue. gray and green. n nannels
similar In pattern to those mad Tor
summer use but heavier.
In some Of the onssimeres and cheviots
the checks and stripes are 90 family
outlined that the goods seem to be OF Q
solid color. And this color must be OF
a dark chocolate brown rather than In
the light shades worn several years ago.
The rogue Of tho onion akin 10 passed.
Such shades, moreover, are suited only to
sumner weather.
There are OF course other colors than
brown, although thnt IL the color seen
most frequently and on the best dressed
MON. Grays are 80 dark that the black
check or stripe OF" them is scarcely dis
tinguishable' or 30 light that they might
be intended for summer wear.
Blue Il 80 essentially q umnfer color
that It rarely appears in the winter ward
robes. yet the dark blue winter serge
may be a very smart garment.
The double breasted sack OF the |
shown In the picture ID recommended
only to the slight man. Such a coat.
made Of heavy winter material and then
covered with an overooat, produces an
eject Of the kind described BY fashion
writers as bunchy. Yet the thin man
in a well cut dark blue double breasted
serge will be certain Of looking as smar
% the best Of them. In such a garment
II q Of course line and not color that
counts for smartness.
The smart sack Of the coming winter
should have four buttons and Ii still
somewhat longer than the coat OF two
years ago and falls we'll below the hips.
The shoulders are Of natural width. which
meaps that there is no padding. although
every coat 6ts better for a certain
amount Of stifening.
That the coat shall not outline the figure
too closely is shown by tho professional
description of 1t Is half fitting. which
mons that the figure 10 outlined without
eve. allowing the garment to touch too
closely ut any point.
The smartest coats have three seams
in the back. although ONE coats are made
merely with the two side seams and q
single pieoe Of cloth 10 form the back.
This IL not 30 smart AZ the two piece back
with the scam down the middle. which
enables q tailor to out q much Nnarte.
coat and makes any garment In SONS
indofinable way appear much moro dis
tinguishei.
The sack coat Of the year must show
plainly that the wearer has a waist in
spite Of the equally important condition
that the coat must not be what Ia COM
monty called cut into the figure. II IL
the mysterious phrase half fitting which
explains that the coat must be tight,
but not too tight. the figure suggested
but ~emphasized and all eccentricities
Of cut and design carefully avoided.
The collar still closes low enough down
to show the top Of the waistcoat. while
the eiges at the bottom are rounded but
almost meet. The roll Of the collar. which
should not be pressed down, extends to
the breast line. and the hip pockets are
finished with flaps. The breast pocket
10 finished only with o seam and Is a little
more slanting than formerly.
The sleeves are finished with q two or
three button vent which 10 naturally prao-
ticable. as n says Of stage properties,
which means that 1t will button and TN
button, whether necessary Dr. not.
The waistooats are this year almost
invariably made without q collar. They
are also single breasted-few even Of the
fancy waistooatsa are this year made double
breasted-and their novelty OF finish may
lie IL long points or q buttonhole for the
watch chain cut between the second and
the third button from the bottom.
The rousers are moderately full at the
hips and should still be tight over the
ankle. The tendency IL to make them
tighter at the knee. They are finished
with side seams to match the coat.
A man who. should have known much
better came into Sherry's the other day
wearing a blue serge suit. The coat was
improbable as to At and % were the
trousers. One detail Of their appearance,
however, ruined them. Down the outsids
seam Of each leg was q stripe OF black
braid. Such a monstrosity may be Of
London origin. but 1t was bad whersveI
Il came from.
The tendency to keep the trousers some.
what closer fitting Ia In line with the aban.
donment Of the padded shoulders, the gu,
Of the coat closer to the figure and the rem.
eral attempt to keep the coat nat,,ra,
rather than In accordance with a convan.
tional fashion.
Una oHhar -ooa} uh.s>~ -sAl