The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1908-09-16
DAZZLING Nv COLOR.
RECKLESS IN DESIGN:
FNLL HITS IRE HERE
Stamp of Exavagant Diectore Period Impressed on Au-
tumn EeadgeaT- Striking Effects Produced
by High Priced Wells.

Salt Lake shops looked yesterday as If
times we're prosperous in this part of the
country, II nowhere else. Although only
one or two formal millinery openings were
In progress. the crowds were out on their
semi-annual tour to view the wonders in
headgear.
And the wonders of headgear are sure
ly to be seen. Each season brings its
OWE gorgeousness apparently but certain
IL IL that never has an autumn season
presented such a riot of color and such
richness of material as does this. or
course the extravaganza of the Direc-
toire period. when Louis XIV and his
court launched forth in splendors UNI
heard of before, dominates all things and
the season just opening may be said 10
be Directoire season in every sense.
The gowns are of course of the modi-
fled DirectOire kind-that is. with all the
effect except the convenient side open
ing for greater ease in walking. Per-
haps the carriage habit has done away
with hts convenience; perhaps society Is
not yet ready for IL; but, however, that
may be, there will be no special run on
the ultra garment of the period in Salt
Lake.
Perfect Dreams Again.
But the hats to wear with the Direc-
toire gowns are perfect dreams" They
are of all styles. but all bear the unmis
taxable stamp of the extravagant period.
Ranging in size from the very small TO
the very large. in material from the heavy
silks and brocades to the lighter lacy
styles. they may be said to suit every
one-unless it may be in the matter of
purse.
Madame Louise hat is of a certain
heliotrope shade bordering on the vieuX
rose. 1t is an immense affair OF heavy
corded silk and is made in a poke style
with two decided tabs coming down to-
ward the ears. OYER which an enchant-
ing bit of lace forms a scarf. An eX-
quisite lace veil. large enough for Span
ish mantilla, is draped over this immense
creation, and punches of great black
feathers are caught on the one side.
There would seem to be no limit to the
size of the hats. for one great affair of
heavy black silk measures about 24x22
inches. and ii is not a Merry Widow, by
the way. Ii drops in fetching way
hither and yon, and holds a great bunch
of plumes in place at one side by means
of a Directoire buckle of huge proper
tons which reaches across the front of it.
Shaped Like Mushroom.
The Nell Brinkley drawings have left
their imprint on the fashion plates in
the form of a Nell BrinkIey hat-a huge
mushroom shaped thing with all its guam
titles of trimming at the back Great
feathery aigrettes with the curling fronds
shown in the Brinkley drawings are at
the extreme rear and fall far down below
the shoulders.
A real Directoire poke in black and
white is cut in an inverted at the back
10 admit of the fashionable Psyche knot
of hair. and this Is allowed to tie under
the chin (which must be round and shape
ly) with fetching streamers that fall the
length of the gown. Great clusters OF
white willow plumes fail at one side, and
the ubiquitous Directoire buckle is III
place in the front.
Still in the blacks and whites comes an
Ada Rehan hat wound around the crown
with a cloth of gold scarf TO relieve the
deep black of the crown. A black feath-
er just about forty inches in length falls
from the hat nearly to the waist.
Although all styles admit of the term
DirsctOire, there are some so distinct
iveIy of the period that they are called
black and white corded silk. has an i'm
mense crown. and a rolling brim which
turns to an extreme height on one side.
Here again ostrich feathers. richer and
heavier than ever seen before, form the
main trimming.
Creations in Wells.
But of all the unique fads brought in
by the season in headgear Cor should one
say face gear?) the new wells for the
winter are decidedly in a class by them
selves. They are of black-almost any
color In a hat will admit of the black
the old-fashioned order of the ancient
lambrequ!n which once surrounded the
beds of monarchs. string of artistic
quality holds the veil In place around
the hat, and thence IL descends in heavy
gathers TO the region of the throat.
where il is gathered into full ruche to
encircle the throat. OF course for such
an unusual occupation as eating or drink
Ing one must lower the entire arrange