The San Francisco call., 1908-03-01


son at Mica and Monte Carlo show
prettier and even more fascinating
models than those of the earlier win
ter. The skirts are long and clinginS,
and cut SO as in no way to inconven-
ience walking. which a badly cut skirt
invariably does. One and all are as
tight as tight can be around the hips.
With no exaggerated fullness. they
hang gracefully in soft, unduiating
lines.
One model was made with long
fawn colored skirt. double pleat
behind avoids the bare look so ofteh
seen in light skirts. The Jacket was
made OF fawn colored silk, tight Mt
ting. and the waist not too snort. Inc
sleeves were rather longer than nalt
sleeves. The trimming consisted or
little fat pleatings beaded on poth
sides and bordering the entire jacket
II opened, or rather closed, over the
bust with the help OF a little white
cloth wsistcoat. fastened with gold
buttons Ths back was ornamented
with folds OF silk placed in shape
which greatly heightened the waist
Little taffeta jackets shaped ike a
cUtsway are charmingly dressy Ihe
fat trimmings mentioned are almost
universally used together with fast-
enings OF brandebourgs.
Before the straw hats come IN one
now sees them exhibited in most OF the
shops The smart women are wearing
hats OF taffeta in all colors. The silk
is tightly stretched and the trimming
IS immense choux OF the same silk. /
saw q fascinating one In the Bois the
other day OF apple green Two I'M
mense cabuchons of pearls helped out
the trimming and were most effective
FORECAST OF FASHIONS
To cast fashions horoscope is dar-
ing procedure. yet II is tempting 10
prognosticate the departure Of some
modes and the appearance Of others.
for there are already signs and por-
tents.
Have you noticed of late how com
pletely the fiounce Is stunned, even
as the trimmings OF the most luxurious
robes de mutt, and upon smart dresses
palpebly so7 1t is the band OF trim
ming that is to be the victorious type
of the coming spring.
Sashes are used In profUsion of col
ors and effects. I cannot say that l ad-
ulire the styIe of swathing the waist
and knotting the ends in front 1t
savors too much OF the Turkish trou-
sers and short Jackets worn by our
sisters Of Constantinople or the orient.
In England they adore these sashes.
for, as the Englishmap who dances
quantity expresses himself, 1T gives
one something to hold on by" Any
American who has tried TO waltz with
an Englishman can appreciate not only
the funny but the practical side OF
this remark.
Linen is to be patronized this year
by the milliners as a material with
which TO practice their pretty lures
and among the novelties that are just
flashed across ones vision the precious
original modes, I have seen in the in
ner sanctums of several fashionable
makers these new ideas:
That the flower will be used in great
masses is a foregone conclusion. Cerise
is to be a favorite color, and much ge-
ranium, both in color and flowers.
A charming model showed one of the
becoming new Amazon shapes, carried
out in rose tinted linen tightly
stretched, and as ornament long black
plumes with a marabout pompon as a
head. Much green and brown is com
hined, also raisin color, which is quiet
though rich color of deep purple. and
is greatly in vogue.
A total change has been made in the
way one wears ones hats. They no
longer evince a determined effort TO
slide down the wearer's back. The hats
shade the face, as they should.
Smart new automobile coats are
shown, with q removable fur lining.
This lining is fastened to the coat with
clasps, such as are made use OF for
glove fastenings. In this way a coat
does service summer and winter.
Tunics which seem almost like the
old fashioned oyerskirt are seen on all
the dressy models designed for wear
indoors, and one wonders if they are
not the forerunners of the polonaise,
which style was in vogue 20 years ago.
Tulle touues have superseded those
darling ones made OF fur. A lovely
model was in white, with white feath-
ers and aigrette at the side. A street
one was entirely of pink roses, with a
very large black aigrette at the side.
The craze for soft, clinging materials
will continue. An exquisite toilette
seen at a recent fashionable wedding
was of currant color liberty satin, en-
broidered in byzantine designs in the
same shade. the lace guimpe of the bod
ice embroidered in gold and silver. With
this was worn large, black tulle hat
with an immense white bird OF para
disc at the side. Boa and muff of er-
mine completed the charm
A black mirror velvet costume seen
at the same ceremony was made in
princess style, the draped corsage MAX
ing the girdle; the skirt was long and
without trimming. The toque was OF
white tulle with a huge blackbird
placed at the side.
AS for embroideries, it Is the tri-
rmphant success. There are more than
100 STYLES in use. One style, made on a
net of gold and silver and embossed
with precious stones, was used on a
dress and cloak which We're worn at a
recent royal wedding and ran the cost
of these up to the trihing sum of
$1,000.
WHAT DRESS MAKER DID
Recently the wife of foreign am
bassador returned to Paris after a long
tourney. She heard that that very
evening her presence was necessary at
one of those social functions from
which an ambassadress can not be abb
sent
1t was a. m. The leading "cou-
turier" was called by telephone A
few minutes later the artist" and
three lady assistants arrived at the EN-
bassy in a motor car. With them they
had brought a score of boxes contain
ing the latest materials and embrofd-
cries. The ambassadress made her
choice and the style and shape Of the
gown were agreed upon.
Measurements were at once taken
The four then rushed back to the "ate-
lier@ There five women worked at the