New-York tribune., 1908-07-12

Paris, July
At the great races half the women appeared in
their eouIing 20 be Iaboring under an alteration
so strange SO bizarre, the mixture OF forms
and Of colors; evident was the stralnlng loF
effect-the desire for notice. The sleeves were SO
tight the skirts so closely swathed that they had
the appearance Of being fashioned from remnant
of material In what bad taste were the bodces,
decollete as for bail. only the thinnest OF TUNE
covering the bare shouldersI In contrast to these
extravagances. these eccentricites were the gowns
Of women OF the great world. Truly elegant were
they IN their simple but excessively smart snort
skirted costumes Of tussor toile OF nauve, dull
blue or old these toile costumes mace
with soft, Imply hanging skirts and habit coats
The skirt, mounted high. showed always-withont
exception-a belt, or sash, of black satin, draDed
softly at the tor and usually with long ends hang
ing from the middle at the side. The blouse
was Of pleated tulle, and with the extremely hgh
s<ck and cravat Of the same. The fronts OF me
coat were followed little below the waist
slopng back into two long pans, set with two great
buttons.
A costume Of canary yellow tussor had Its coat
shaped quite like mans evening coat 1t was
entirely covered with squares Of Burano lace, mace
suto a mosaic. with trailing designs of soutaehe
braid. There is a real fad for this odd Burano
lace 1t is distractingly pretty when used to trim
costumes of blue pink to1e- Its large and small
squares adorned with grotesque animals, land
scapes and battlenented castles, are set corner 10
corner around the hem Of the skirt or mount IN
eversldrt fashion higher side. The pro-
fusion on the bodice coat is limited only by the
length of ones purse.
Gowns Of embroidered tulle this have en-
srelv replaced those CT English embroidery. These
latter are now so seldom seen that one may safely
s.v they are not worn at all. But muslin, the old
fashioned embroidered curtain muslin, and not al
vyays Of fe finest sort is on the top wave or favor
II is called here muslin de communiante." Lovely
and altogether novel is gown made Of this pretty
material its skirts double, the first one slightly
trained and dragging long all about; the en-
troidery mounts knees; at the top Of IL there
Is run wide soft pink ribbon, through lace entire
teux tying in a great bow al the back Through
,be transoarency of the overskrt this ribbon shows
+.,,+, With the prettiest effect. The high belt is
a, the same ribbon The corsage, much ernbroi-
de-ed and with short wide sleeves, is low over
p7,;rnne Of pleated tulle; the left side IS set a
large chou Of pink ribbon. Fancy such costume
,dtb q broad brim-ned hat Of white straw. trimmed
..b ,,nlx roses and with Brides OF black velvet!
An original gown designed for young girl Is
an exact COPY Of infants baptlsn1aI rooe- VI
.be finest batiste, II is embroidered by haho IN
,,ve,v sestoons the skirt and bodice inset and
es9ed with lace. A broad sash of Liberty satin is
,ou,a high bout the waist and knots into great
,,ow at one side; the fringed ends are OF unequal
length one reaching the edge Of the lace edged
.L.ir4 The hat selected to wear with this gown
a, ~ white straw Swathing the crown is a scarf
q -,,,e cnf-on decorated with large fnteriacing
,irys formed Of pink Banksia roses; one side OF
the broad brim is tipped low over the ear by q
big bow OF the chiffon.
Prenared for seaside and for country wear is a
l-,,-y hat Of braided white linen, trimmed with
> sos-e ~ fine white linen laid softly about the
c-ou-n and finishing under great red rose with
. few green leaves Another model is Of fine white
cav the brim faced with dark velvet The trim
,t,,o consists of a scarf Of fine embroidered linen.
twisted at the side into cocard, with embroidered
ends.
The long tight sleeves that reach TO the fingers
have beeorne now a matter OF fact. The short
sleeve So comfortable and becoming, forming
>vo,,+bfil a silhouette IS longer A princess
gown lust finished Of the great designers
IS of old blue crepe de chine. Like all the skirts
Of the last months, il is plain, long and cling
ing. 1t is mounted high with a few wrinkles at
the hips and hangs straight without the slight
curve at the natural line OF the waist A wide
band velvet finishes 1.-The top this IS split in
the middle back and front faced with white and
turns into tiny revers, each one tipped
the corner with silk balls The white blouse cor
sage is soutache with pale color shaping a
dep square, framing guimpe Of finely tucked
white net The sleeves of the net with wider
tucks running around: they shaped down the
back seam into shallow scallops followed with a
tiny frill OF Valeneiennes lace: in each scaon is p
fat button as large as a cent. Many of the ne "
sleeves are made after this model. 1t is a msr7fl
the weight of braiding embroidery and above Af
many buttons that constitute their trimrninFs
Many Of the latest models show one-siiep
orapery on the bodice well the skirt =
beautiful and wholly practical gown OF blina
Sskteors crepe lie slightly wrnkled the frkrt