The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1908-08-30
DirectOire Gown Divides Favor With Old
Greek and Princess Styles
Fashionable Women in Paris Continue to
Wear Hats as Large as Big Family
Umbrellas

fashion of the moment. 1t was prin-
cesse style in pale blue soft liberty,
made over a tight fitting foundation
outlining the bust, waist, and hips
without a crease. The top of the bod
ice was a white Alencon lace guimpe,
cut very low and transparent, and cut
over the bust in the shape of an arc
over an inner blouse of embroidered
net. A long black satin scarf was
crossed before and behind, and passing
over the right shoulder was knotted
over the right hip, from where it was
again knotted and trimmed with two
heavy silk tassels. The sleeves were
transparent and made of black net.
The hat worn with this costume was
a large black straw with ostrich
plumes.
Shoes Match Dresses.
I noticed that the elegance and re-
finement of the day were also carried
out in the boots and shoes. Whatever
color the dress may be, the shoes and
stockings are always of the same
shade. The buttons should be not of
mother of pearl, but of real precious
stones. For instance, for white dress
the shoes would be white, with real
pearls as fastenings. IF blue, the shoe
would be the same color, with tur-
quoises, and SO on. Very pretty are
the shoes made in antique silk, with
buttons of antique silver, which can
be worn by bridesmaids with the shep-
herdess style of dress. All these shoes
must have Louis XIV heels, very high
and tapering.
AT no other epoch has there existed
such great ad general love of dress
and, moreover, love of change Styles
change so rapidly that what was fash
ionable at the beginning of the season
is quite out of date at the end, but in
spite of this, they all have but one
tendency-to revert to those of former
days. The short waists, mounting
high up the back, the large, soutached
cloaks with wide sleeves, the burnous
made in cloth or cashmeres, all carry
us back to the time of the empire.
Heat Governs Clothing.
The heat Of few days before the
present rainy weather set in had one
curious effect, that Of making smart
Parisiennes discard all but the most
absolutely essential parts of their cloth
ing. In the Bots corsages have been
seen almost as decollette as ball dress
es. Understands have been abolished
for some months past, and now an eff
fort has been noticed to render the
corsage still more attenuated. One
wonders really where it will stop. The
passion for soft, transparent materials
has also brought with it the fashion
for soft and clinging draperies, and if
one avoids the exaggers. tions of the
earlier part of the season, are unrival-
ed for their forms and ,Neauty. Gowns
made with tunics dra ced in the Greek
styles, of liberty and other similar ma
terials, are charming.
The time has passed, according to the
old French saying, when to be we'll
gloved and well shod is to be we'll
dressed. These are now but the small
est part Of the details of the toilet
which are carefully studied. Inatten-
ton to what is seemingly a minor de-
tail will throw the whole effect out of
harmony. One is verify a slave to
fashion if one endeavors to keep pace
with the fashionable Parisienne; it is
one long grind and no letup. Hours
are spent at the preliminary part of
the toilet, the bath, hair, hands and |
complexion grooming, and then comes
the dressing. A leading hair dresser |
assured me the other day that one well I
known beauty takes two hours to put |
on her hat and veil. Think of spend
ng two hours on your head like that! I
Quite enough to take all ideas save /
fatigue, envy and discomfort out of
he sight Of a rival with a frock at
racting more attention.
Corset Makes an Artist
Notwith standing the talk of the sup