Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27

the shadow OF gray about mouth that
has been stranger to smiles at times.
around throat a little too thin and long:
not youths flower blossom, white and
pink; hair with lock or two of white,
with a streak of powder in it's brown
masses; not youths baby ring curls on
the temple and nape of the neck-each
In Its way, and We must be young just
as we must be assuredly old afterward
and have gone through doing and know
ing and learning and feeling until We
reach the time when we would rather be
called elusive than beautiful. We are
hard to please. but there are times when
we are pleased. all the same.
The Summer Frocks.
About the summer frocks. 10 continue
our smile, there is an elusiveness that
makes last seasons frock seem up to
date until one comes to examine it crit
ically. Then one feels that In some quite
understandable fashion one is miles away
from the mode. In the first place, ii
doesn't cling, and very likely the skirt is
made walking length, which no self-re-
specting skirt for afternoon wear is this
year, and the sleeves are apt to date 1T
most uncomfortably. In fact, everything
is worn except what has been worn in
the near past. And nowhere Is the chang
ing mode more felt than in sleeve styles.
The balloon manche has had its little
day, and the elbow sleeve is counted
among things Gle mode. and the sleeve
that projects beyond the armhole Is not
what it should be by any means. and the
one that is gathered at the top of the
armhole is not of the elect. If you stead
lily refuse 10 countenance any of these
passed fancies you are safe to branch
out into any of the eccentricities Of the
moment. There are at least a half dozen
from which you may seiect. but all OF
them are small and hug the arm in
most affectiOnate manner.
The Directoire Sleeve.
The directoire style is one of he new
sleeve developments. and 1t has several
variants, but the one most used In coats
and blouses is very long, quite small
fits the arm from elbow to knuckles and
finishes with three-inch plating of lace
or some soft material that lends itself TO
fullness. The shoulder of a garment
graced with this sleeve may be draped
or broadened in some becoming style
The other form is folded around the arm.
fits snugly and has buttons and attached
buttonholes down the entire length. The
kimono sleeve is smart: the kimono arm
hole is not. This cryptic sentence is we'll
worth studying il one is to be thought
well dressed. The meaning is clear to
the initiated that the kimono sleeve is
put into small armhole and that it does
not hang loose. The ruff1ed model has
undergone d subtle change. 1t is not full
as 1t was last summer, and is made on a
tight lining, and to it are attached two
ruffies slightly fulled. The top ore hangs
from the shoulder almost to the elbow.
and the lower one commences about two
inches below the shoulder and covers the
elbow. The mousquetairs sleeve is one
of the popular sleeves of the season. 1t
is cut in one piece and gathered around
the arm and Is arranged in deep point
over the hand. which in turn Is edged
with ruche of lace This sleeve Is cool
and attractive in lightweight cloth
dresses when made of net exactly match
ing the color of the cloth. Then there is
an evening manche of Grecian origin
that Is used for smart afternoon and
restaurant gowns that have Jokes of
lace. This sleeve Is OF lace is about
fourteen inches deep and Is placed in the
armhole with but slight fullness 1t is
gathered a little more at the back than
under the arm and Is slashed here and
there on top Of the arm and crossed with
bands OF some kind.
Partisan Toilet Novelties.
Among the little details of the Pa
risienne's toilet q few of the novelties
which have appeared lately arc the enor-
nous egg-shaped hatpins. upon which
some women have their notices set in
Jewels and the sunshade handles with
heads Of little snimais or BIRDS some
opening 20 disclose IA powder puff or bon
bonpiere. Gloves, by the way, are all in