The sun., 1908-05-10
MANS SPORTING CLOTHES.
THE NORFOLK JACKET TAKES
MANY NEW SHAPES
One with Accordion Plaits Especially
Adapted 10 the Golf Players Needs
--Rldlng Clothes for Town and Country
-The Seasons Flannel Tennis Suite.

inc Seasons Flannel Tennis suih.
It ia not in the least necessary that one
should be a sport 10 have a very urgent
need for a sporting wardrobe. Sportsman
ship Is nowadays forced on one.
! Men who are invited to 60 riding In a
motor As we'll as those who are asked TO
visit in the Adrondacks find themselves
much more comfortable when they possess
a moderate supply Of appropriate gar
ments. Even when the strict proprieties do
not require outing clothes, there are many
men who like the opportunity to vary con-
/ ventional dress in this way. II s an applica-
tion Of the theory that not every man who
wears yachting cap owns boat
The standard coat for outing wear has
always been the norfolk jacket. No rule Of
spelling has been violated in dropping the
capital letter, as the geographical descrip-
tion has degenerated into mere adjective.
Naturally this coat although II is a sport
| ing garment. shows a tendency TO follow
the prevailing styles and cling to the figure
| To make 1t az close fitting as the ordinary
sack would Of oourse rob II Of all usefulness,
but it mustbe tighter than II was.
The best style Of norfolk blouse this
summer is single breasted with the belt
attached. The back has three plaits, which
turn backward TO correspond with the
| three plaits in front, which turn In the oppo-
site direction. These plaits extend no
further down than the belt, below which the
tails OF the coat fall
Two buttons close the front Of the coat
above the belt the third button being In
the belt and serving to close II as we'll as the
lower part OF the coat. In the back OF the
skirt there 10 one seam, vented, while the
skirt is slightly rolled at the sides.
There are no pockets in front save one on
each side Immediately below the belt. They
are supplied with flaps and in some cases
are applied to the coat. They are finished
with strap seams. like everything else in
connection with a sporting coat.
The yoke, which is an indispensable
feature Of new norfolk jackets extends
about eight inches from the shoulders.
The opening Of the coat, which is supplied
with lapel, comes down to about the
same distance.
Few Of the norfolks are now made with the
plaits running from the shoulder seam down
| to the bottom Of the coat. although that
style was in the main becoming 1t gave
length to stout men and made even thin
men look taller
Some coats which still call themselves
norfolks dispense almost altogether with
the plaits. The yoke falls TO point about
! ten inches below the shoulder. From the
! woke to the bottom seam Of the coat there
! falls on each side Of the buttons narrow
1 box plat Another II found IN the back
! Of the coat falling however, from the yoke,
which is on the back as well.
On the skirt the two pockets are applied
! and finished with strapped seams. The
| finish is simple and the sleeves end In very
plain combination Of two buttons. Most
! OF the other norfolks are supplied with
much more elaborate trimmings on the
! sleeves, such IA u turned back cum which
ia buttoned and strapped.
| A still more extreme pattern OF norfolk
, ia intended especially for golf players, and
although close fitting Is thought 70 allow
! special facility in movement. Inc sldee
| and part Of the front and back consist OF
! accordion plaits not more than two inches
! wide. These are held In place by the
! shoulder seams and the belt, which Is
/ made fast TO the back.
The back proper consists OF a perfectly
| plain piece Of cloth, and the skirts, which
/ begin at the belt, are plain but for the two
applied pockets and the two vents which
/ button through, Another shade OF cen
/ tricity il the use Of the accCr Ga lalts
! under the sleeve to a depth ret ~ almost
! to the elbow. The object OF this freaklsh-
! ness is OF course to make the movement
: Of the arms freer
! The sleeves are finished with an ostenta-
I tously simple cuf that buttons closely
! about the wrist this being intended to
! imply that such coats are worn only by
/ men who 20 in for real sport. As a matter
! of fact any man who desired 10 dress taste
! fully would avoid this coat as he would
avoid the plague
While the freak department is still under
| discussion il would be unjust 10 overlook
| the coat, which is intended partly for sport
! ing Use and partly for city wear. The
| usalessnees OF such a garment may Oe
understood when one considers that sport
! ing clothes in which one takes nal exercise
should be taken on as soon as one has fin
ished eia exercising,
But the Imagination OF the tallors mas to
work sometimes. and this Is one result Of
| that operation. The long irock coat is
J made Of dark blue flannel with white
/ stripes, At each side seam in the back ls
a broad vent 80 full that pointed nap is
used to button over IL, This nap IL tri-
angular Similar haps close the side pook-
cts and are applied to the bottom OF the
sleeves 80 that the cum may be frightened
II one wants to play tennis or golf,
! Irish homespuns or other rouBh goods
are the only appropriate cloths for norfolk
! jackets.
Most OF the riding suits seen in Central
Park are simple in design. Dark cloth is
selected by the men who have no e1pecta-
ton OF taking their exercise in other places
| this summer, while the light checks and
shepherd's paids are confined wholly to
out of town use. They are attractive
enough for wear at Newport or Southamp-
ton and they are almost necessity a. the
Meadow Brook Club.
In New York, however, IL is better taste
al all times to cling to dark oolors. SO the
sack riding suits seen in the park on these
spring mornings are usually in dark gray
or black and white almost invisible checks
| The sack is different from the coat intended
| for ordinary wear in being somewhat
hshorter and generally made with more
attempt al a sportsmanlike fnish.
All the seams are strapped. The pockets
on the hips are patched and the top pocket
has a flap. The three buttons down the
front close the coat to the bottom and there
is a little more than usual fulness at the
sides. The collar 10 Of medium length and
the roll less than ordinarily made.
The single breasted, oollarlees waistcoat
is usually OF some fancy material, and II
| one OF the same cloth as the coat is used it
should have a red or white insert.
In the afternoon the outaway sack 10
reRarded as the best style, although no man
would be guilty Of q great breach OF the
proprieties II he olung 10 the sack. The
GOAT differs from the business cutaway in
being heavier in make and having the
~ .i,ot: ar. ,r th. .Lirts h.Iov, th.