The San Francisco call., 1908-10-11


When one can take the time and can sew evenly
these sometimes done by hand. This almost
waste Of time, when nearly all Of us have
calls time. But If the work is to be
hand sewed. the first sewing OF either of the
named Is done by taking several running stitches and
a In hnis of It
Is hemmed, and in the French 1t generally is
To look neat the stitches must be tiny and
perfectly A French is made by running and
back stitching the right side stitching 1t
the machine, trimming IL on Close creasng it well.
and turning the wrong side. stitch
ing is put in which the first The finished
seam should not be over an eighth OF an inch wide A
felled is stitched wrong side
edge is trimmed close to the stitching and the other
edge is turned over and hemmed down 1t Is nice
finish to do this henrning by hand The finished width
should be the the other.
always desirable henrning on white goods
by hand edge be made perfectly straight
then a fold is towards the wrong
side: second fold is made desired width, and a
piece of stin light cardboard should be used
to The basting done close o
the edge. In basting straight hem where there
seams. they always should lie themselves 4
folded. In basting hem material which will not
stay folded both folds will have basted they
turned. N hemrning. hold the hem between the
and forefnger Of the left hand.
should come up opposite the middle of the thumb. The
thumb is in slanting position while holdingshe
and stitches If properly will
sides
Nothing prettier for rufies than rolled hem
which is made by rolling the edge Of the
between the thumb and forehnger Of the hand.
cover the raw edge. hem with the finest
possible stitches as you rol-roing about an inch at
time
Hemstitching is still another method of hemmdng
and is decorative and fascinating to do The hem
laid In the usual but before doing several
threads drawn just above where the hem folds
then the hem is basted down place.
ing may done either right left
right-the latter way is perhaps usual The
thread is started the left hem the
passed under the desired stitches
the needle is drawn through it is inserted into the fold
off fhe inst ahO and the 10
to separate the cluster OF threads,
If worked from right to left begin the right
side by fastening the thread in the up
the desired number of stitches and draw the thread
through. The needle is then put the same
of stitches taken up after which
needle inserted above in the fold Of the
French beading. which is often used put
together in fine lingerie and babys clothes. is
in by cutting the muslin OF close to the beading then
the edge Of the material should be rolled and
handed to the beading
1t is not inappropriate those In deepest mourn
ing white shirt waists with white linen skirts
in the home in weather in the country All
white far better such a time
white waist and black skirt These blouses skirts
: however severely plain. lace embroidery
II being used merely fine scauop polka dot in
embroidery Hensttehng is correct and is particularly
Il good looking son waists with plated frIs jabots
brussels lace. duh finish. and lined with
CLOTH makes beautiful looking blouses
needs little hnsh. other than miiners folds
n of the net crepe.
Nj + 4
II Widows are supposed to wear the deepest mourning
II with few exceptions a crepe veil
II If the widow be young a shorter veil Is a
= small hat. Severe planness Is the thing
trimming unless 1T be small roll OF around
edge Of the bonnet In the a widows mourning
months-an exception today to the fashion for the
mourning Of other relative. After that
4 thrown back from the face.
A slender. graceful made striking
pleasing gowned in black mourning
Her skirt Of some soft silky stun. hemmed
with heavy black faille silk. 1t clung her
limbs and the floor in a was IN
princess form and wrinkled up bodice, to
shape high belt Above this the bodice cut in
low shape guimpe of black nous
seline soie; the sleeves tightly arms
from shoulder to wrists, pointing gloved
hands.
On golden hair. dressed low. low wide
turban of black tulle- At side an immense
wheel made several of plaitings prtcked
with large ball. and from the the turban
black veil hung narrowly down of her
gown.
Muns larger than before. and this serves
T., accentuate senderness fashionable wonn-
ans figure. Although the pillow Is still shown
the effects, particularly made OF the
whole skin Of the lynx and fox. head tail and
claw trimmings. will be fashionable Shawl and
pclerne effects favorites and these
collars and throws made broad dropping ef
have the front pieces extending to the waist
line The shorter lengths also be seen