davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1908-07-19
Smart Blouses.

Crepe de Chine bIouses are again
to be worn with tailored street cos
tunes. They are OF precisely the color
of the coat and skirt, and If finely
tucked at back and front require no
trimming Some Of them are made up
with yokes of self-colored lace and rib
bon velvet entire deux. When it Is de-
sired to make them very elaborate bullion
embroideries are set between clusters of
pin tucks. Sometimes the pointed or
square yoke and high Gibson collar are
Of finest self-colored net, unlined. even
with chiffon, but tucked in pin clusters
set widely apart. If the net yoke is
quite heavy it may be used without either
tuckings or shirrings, but the collar must
then be stiffened with the finest Of collar
boning, concealed by vertical stripes OF
narrow ribbon trimming.
Yokes and guimpes will do more
toward furnishing up half-worn gown or
blouse than almost any other fashionable
makeshift, as the neck and shoulders
of a costume usually are first to show
the effects Of time and wear. Allover
embroidered muslins and Valenciennes
laces are always pretty for Jokes, and
the possibilities of net are endless, for
those in white may be bleached or dyed
and those of black may be dipped Even
the presence of a few holes In the mesh
need not matter, for they may be taken
into the shirrings or plaitings or Gov
cred by the strips OF lace insertion OF
ribbon employed for entire deux effects.
To make a guimpe set satisfactorily 1t
should not extend to the waistline, but
to just below the bust 1t will then have
no strain upon 1t when the arms are
rnised, and. consequently, win not Do
twisted out Of position.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-07-19
Paragraphs.

Hips have absolutely gone out OF
fashion. The girl who has acquired them
must suppress them at once If she Is
ambitious to be abreast of the timesl
OF course, this Is wholly a matter of a
correctly shaped corset. as flesh cannot
be forced to melt In a day. To promptly
suppress the hips the first requisite is,
allow the waist more room. A pulled
in waist makes the hips look larger, and
extremely large hips make it impossible
for the new clnging Directoire gown.
however cleverly handled by q dress
maker, to be a success.
The newest models in cotton tailored
waists have a batiste, or linen, plating
down their fronts. Some of them have
colored striped bands entire deux with
plaits forming their entire fronts and
backs. This is a suggestion for the
woman whose expensive blouse has
shrunk, or who has grown too large for
a waist, for the striped bands may be
arranged to cover the traces of tucks
necessarily taken out. 1t is simpler
method than that of putting VS. under
the arms.
sweet pea hats are the dantiest
chapeaux of the summer. They are
charming for the woman In half mourn
ing when Of pure white, soft straw or
wnite erin. II the crown is rather low
II may he entirely covered with punches
OF lavender sweet peas, some Of which
may trail over the curling side brlm. Or
stin net band may be stitched around
the top OF the crown and wreathed with
the flowers, which should appear TO rest
upon white malinette swathing below
It. The rich purple and delicate white
make a striking combination. If the
brim Of the refurblshed hat is high and
the crown low the entire chapeau may be
covered with purple tnlle and small
sprays Of sweet peas strewn over 1t.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-07-19

Fashionable dogs have wardrobes and
belongings that are almost as varied as
those possessed by their adoring mis-
tresses. During warm weather there Is
some laxity In regard to coats, and many
CANNES of undeniabe social position not
only go about the house without even
collar. but wear merely harness, TO
which n leader IL attached when II is
time to go out for the early morning.
forenoon. afternoon and late evening ex-
ercise. This rule applies particularly TO
French. bulldogs, Dalmatians, Papiilons
and others having a rather close-htting
pelt which does not readily take up dust
At the moment their leaders and har-
nesses are chiefly In the many shades OF
tan and gray leather with silver, gold
and gun-metal buckles and nallheads; but
If the household is in mourning then the
leather straps are either all black or ali
white. mounted with dull metal.
Poodles and Pomeranians wear ribbons
on the street as well as in the house
throughout the summer, the leader being
SO attached that the skeleton-like harness
is scarcely discernible. For some unex-
ulainable reason, 1t is considered proper
for such fuzzy animals to have their
garb changed quite as frequently as any
woman of fashion. Following the morn
ing bath, combing and pertaining, MIMI
or pom Patch" or Fiji" as the case
may be, barks approvingly or wriggies
discontentedly as he watches the maid
select from his individual ribbon tray
taffetas bow Of delicate hue and moderate
proportions. This Is worn until noon,
unless be goes out with his mistress,
when, of course. q neck adjournment, pre-
cisely the shade Of her gown. must be
worn: otherwise fhe forenoon frlsk around
Los Angeles herald., 1908-07-19
Ultra Chic Racing Costumes What Wear What Not Wear
Elegance the
Small

outer garment may be composed of YER
tical strips of lace and silk or lace and
velvet entire deux, and be worn over
satin gown Of contrasting hue, yet to
prove that the two pieces were originally
designed to be worn together, each car
ries suggestion of the others color In
the piping of the collar. the covering of
the buttons. the tint OF the tassels or
the shade Of the gIrdle.
Sleeves Are Picturesque.
As seen In the more elaborate types OF
costumes, such as are worn to the races,
sleeves were never more picturesque.
They are loose and tight, long and short,
but never without Individuality. type
Of sleeve enjoying high favor with wo-
men who carry off extremes, Is modi-
hcation of the butterfly. 1t is cut In
one with the coat or the bodice. and is
of the same width where 1t terminates
just above the elbow at the arm-size.
Beneath II Is set tight-htting sleeve,
which is part of the net guimpe, but
silk-lined, so that the arm is adequately
protected. Newest among sleeves for
coats, are those made of lnterlacing inch
wide velvet ribbons mounted upon tucked
Los Angeles herald., 1908-07-19
; cZ1iladi's Pet Dog. x * *

These have wide collars, leather bound,
and prominent side pockets. The latter
detail is rather departure from the
ordinary coat, whose handkerchief pocket
is usually Of modest proportions.
1t is almost impossible to put shoes on
dogs, such as the Papillon and Italian
greyhound, but they are wonderful pro-
lection to those CANNES having fluffy
hair Winter boots are square toed and
heelless, lace at front or inner side and
are made of deerskin or ooze kid. To
be Of real service the soles should be of
flexible leather and the tops fur lined.
Rubbers are of ankle length and OF the
same elastic sort as those used for the
best type of women's footgear. Accord
ing to the shape of the dogs feet, they
button or lace at one side.
Beds are square, oblong or oval, and
have shaped or draped tops. They are
furnished with thick nair mattresses at
tached to springs, and their covering con-
sists of hemstitched or embroidered
sheets, a pair Of flannel blankets and a
lingerie counterpane. Sometimes soft,
round pillows are provided, but these are
not regarded as a necessity.
Travelling baskets are shaped somewhat
like an infants toilet case and lined al
most as luxuriously. There are several
airholes in the top and windows at each
side. model that is not so dainty, but
Is better calculated to mislead an Argus
eyed railway conductor, is of alligator
skin and shaped like closely packed
Gladstone bag The ventilator is set into
the top between the handles, and when
such piece of luggage is discreetly car
ried, few persons would suspect It OF
sheltering sleeping dog.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-07-19

well bred young girl is expected to be
quite as modest In her garb as In her
manner.
Pulled Hat Crowns.
The fascination that the pulled hat
crown possesses for the average woman
is not to be wondered at when 1t is con-
sidered how generally becoming 1t is and
how radically different from those worn
for several years past. A chapeau which
is a cross between the over-worked Char
lotte Corday and the juvenile Du Barry,
has a mushroom brim of moderate pro-
portions which seems to suit any face on
the right side of middle age. One model
is so simple that an amateur milltner
can safely attempt 1t. The dotted net
is shirred closely over three-inch brim,
velvet-edged, and the same material
forms the wide, pulled crown which Is
separated from the inner edge of the
brim by band Of wide velvet ribbon
run through large and ornamental
buckle. The same simplicity marks the
treatment Of another hat of kindred
shape and fabric, whereof the brlm Is q
closely plated frill separated from the
crown by wide ribbon hand supporting
a pair of outstanding fancy wings.
Plume Clusters Are Smart.
method of hat trimming which APP
peals irresistibly to the woman who has
sufficient individuality of bearing to car
ry II off, is the use of clusters Of three
or four short, thick ostrich plumes at
one side Of a high crowned, narrow brim-
med chapeau. Sometimes there is a brim
facing or binding of velvet or satin
and a narrow band encirclng the crown,
but many hats have only the plume clus-
tiers at the left side and while the et.
feet seems at first glance to be BIT
peculiar, It Is nevertheless, Immensely
smart-on the right head. When all Is
said In favor of flowers, ospreys and
yard long plumes, there is really no KIND
of hat trimming that Is quite so fetching
as a cluster of tips Some of the most
successful of the seasons racing costumes
owe much OF their individuality to the
hat topping them. This was especially
notable In the case of pastel piue
satin coat and skirt costume with which
was recently worn a cluster plume-gar-
nished black chip hat.
Net Separate Blouses.
Not every young woman who attends
the races deems 1t necessary to wear
coat or even matching skirt and boaice
Those who are conscious of possessing IT.
reproachable figures are going In strong
ly for the cloth or silk skirt ana the
dye net blouse, which may De more OF
less elaborate with lace insets or edg-
lngs, or need have no lace whatever. In
fact, many dainty little hlet waists
have merely tucked fronts and are
trimmed with embroidered silk bands
or relieved with white fancy net
yokes, stocks and under-sleeves. Most
of the washable net blouses are
unlined and are intended to be worn
over adjustable taffeta slips furnished
with lace-trimmed Jokes or chemisettes.
Washable crepes and silks are also made
Los Angeles herald., 1908-07-19

chiffon foundations, really a continuation
of deeply yoked Empire jacket having
similarly crossed shoulder straps.
Lace and Lingerie Gowns.
II the weather be propitous, there is
nothing more becoming nor appropriate
for a stately matron OF any age than
racing costume of black or colored lace.
Any number of such gowns are made
up over self tinted Innings and worn with
taffetas or satin sleeyed or sleeveless
coats Quite as appropriate for the de-
butante and greatly affected by that
element Of the younger SET" are the
lingerie frocks OF embroidered batiste,
with which are worn brocaded and fancy
silk and satin Jackets of rather less
elaborate character than those affected
by their elders. Sometimes the young
girls lingerie frock is Of the simplest
design, trimmed with bands OF embroid-
cry or lace, and is worn with a match
ing coat of the allover trimming. Or
the thin white muslin may be over a
delicately tinted slip and accompanied by
a similarly lined transparent coat, but such
effects should never be startling, for the
Los Angeles herald., 1908-07-19
WE TIT ut AND EHuQ1Z2x2H1C

mode of the moment and sartorial critics
aver that upon her the new skirt looks
quite as chic upon the French grande
dame, with whom 1t originated. Save
In the cases of semitransparent materials
and laces, these skirts are unlined and
present the appearance of being worn over
silken tights, so closely do they cling
to the figure. This, however, Is not the
case In most instances, for even the
dressmaker Of advanced ideas, prescribes
a perfect fitting and sharply gored lin
gerie petticoat that Is neither trimmed
nor starched.
The Different Combinations.
The wide latitude allowed In the use
and combination Of material In racing
costumes, has resulted In some stunning
effects this season. For instance, gown
may be wholly OF silk-fnished cashmere
In rose or blue and over 1t will be worn
a long coat OF alloyer white embroidered
batiste. Or white voile may be en-
ployed for the clinging, trained skirt.
irish lace for its short-walsted bodice
and long-wrlsted sleeves, and black gull
pure lace for its Directolre coat.
Again the straight, almost shapeless
Los Angeles herald., 1908-07-19

The costume to be worn to a fashiona-
BILE race meet has ever been the one upon
which the maker most cheerfully ex-
Ponds her time and her sartorial genius
and the customer as many dollars as her
bank account or her genius permits of.
This season, despite the financial stress
of the preceding months, the enclosures
and club balconies of the fashionable
racing parks, have more than ever evil
denced the feminine extravaganza In
dress, which distinguishes the present de-
cade. Not only are the materials en-
ployed for such costumes of the most
expensive kind, but the designs of the
skirts. the coats and the hats are artis-
tic extremes of their kind.
Long Skirts Prevail.
Save in the case of an exceedingly
youthful debutante, whose pose is to
appear prominently girlish, long skirts
prevail 1t goes without saying that these
are scant and cinging, with scarcely
more width at the bottom than at the
top. To manage such skirts gracefully,
1t is necessary to adopt o slow, gliding
gait, but then the American woman is al
ways able to readily adapt herself to the
Los Angeles herald., 1908-07-19

mistress abroad there are coats of heavy
plaid woolens which precisely match the
steamer rug fabrics, from which may be
selected one proclaiming the family clan.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-07-19

the square is enjoyed IN what may be
termed morning CARO-" But 1t goes
v ,hout saying that he never ventures
forth after luncheon time wearing any
Los Angeles herald., 1908-07-19
y y X Fashions For

save an absolutely fresh satin ribbon lest
he be shifted at disdainfully by all dogs
having any pretentions of fashion.
For the dog that is to accompany its
The San Francisco call., 1908-12-06
LONG BUSINESS
CAREER IS CLOSED
Albert w. Scott, Who Came TO
San Francisco in 1851,
Dies Suddenly

Albert ". Scott. senior member OF
the drm of Scott & Magner and one OF
the most popular pioneer merchants of
San Francisco, died suddenly at his
home, 3e5 Buchanan street, yesterday
morning. having lived nearly 70 years
native Of Vermont, he came around
the Horn to California In 1851 and es-
tablished the large business with which
he has been connected these many
years.
He. represented q class that Is fast
disappearing that Nof the courageous,
industrious and honorable merchants
who came TO California with nothing
but their bare hands and a determine
ton to succeed. and by these qualities
made their fortunes.
In public life as well as in private
life Scott has always been a public
spirited citizen. In the early '70s he
served terms as a member Of the board
Of education and the board of super
visors. He was g prominent fraternal
man, having been a member OF the or
der OF Odd Fellows, Masons, Workmen
and OF several local clubs.
He leaves a widow, Mrs. Georgia c.
Scott, and one son. A. w. Scott Jr. The
funeral VIII be held from his late resi-
dence. 305 Buchanan street, on Monday,
at o'clock.
The San Francisco call., 1908-12-06
NEW RouGH RInERs, CANE

There will be an Installation OF q
new camp. No 2, of the Rough Riders
of California at Anona hall. 2911 San
Bruno avenue, next Tuesday at 8
institute the same and all the officers
The San Francisco call., 1908-12-06
Personal Mention

J. /. Taylor, a lecturer Of New York.
is at the Stewart
william Ferdon OF New York Is a
guest at tie ManN
George T. Williams of Seattle IS reg
.stered at the ST. Francis.
l. NJ Archer, an attorney Of Redding
Is staying at the Stewart.
Senator Thomas P. Mills of Wiscon-
sin IS staying at the St Francis.
NJ and Mrs. F. A West Of Stockton
have apartments at the Fa-rmont-
E. \. Argersingen. a mining operator
els.
william c. BIatt, a shoe manufac-
turer Of Detroit IS guest at the
Stewart
Raymond Whitcomb tours. is guest at
the Fairmont
Sam P. Hamilton has gone east to
attend the convention OF the National
commercial gas association. to be held
q IN Chicago December ). 9, 10 He viii
be away for about three weeks.
H. s. Harris OF Chicago and J. J.
Miller and daughter Of Stockton are at
the Baltimore.
Commodore Il w. Stevenson, u. S.
u. retired, and his wife are at the Dor
chester.
A. A. Christian and wife Of Spokane
and il. Gon. OF Sprague. Wash. are al
The Imperial
George Reach Of Fresno and M.
Thomas OF Denver are at the Savoy.
W Ferdon Of New York and c. H
Wager OF Hollfster are at the Manx.
a E. Green and wife OF Seattle and
p f. Jackson Of Golddeld are at the
Granada
W Graham Of Santa Rosa and NJ c.
Lambert OF Seattle are at the Holland.
j. Wilmot and wife OF Portland, Ore,
Elmer Watson and wife OF Harrisburg,
pa and r R. Grade and wife Of Ysa-
bell. Mex, are AT the Argonaut
". r. Hynes Of New York city, an
electrical engineer. is visiting San
Francisco IL the interest Of New York
capitalists. He is a guest at the Fair
mont.
The San Francisco call., 1908-12-06
REPORT PRESENTED
BY CIVIC LEAGUE
Organization Does Good Work
in Supervising Public
Expenditures
Many Irregularities Are Discoy-
cred Through Activity of
the inspectors

Although IN operation only month,
the civic-league OF San Francisco has
fulfilled the expectations OF its orig
inators in inspecting all municipal
work carried on under provisions of
the bond issue of May II. The report
of the committee on supervision OF
public improvements and expenditures
for November was made public yester-
day.
Through a system of inspection in
augurated by the league under the di-
rectIon of Winfield S. Williams, all
municipal work has been investigated
and in numerous instances contractors
have been found TO be violating their
agreements. Such violations have been
reported to the city engineer with the
result that the contractors were COM
PEELED TO do the work according to
contract and the city's inspectors
were reprimanded for their negligence
in not reporting the violations. 1t has
been determined that in many respects
city officials are at the mercy of their
subordinateS in the matter of compel
ling unwavering fulfllment OF con-
tracts with the city.
DAILY REPORTS MADE
The report issued yesterday was
compiled from daily reports made to
Williams by his corps of inspectors and
accountants. It contains a full ac-
counting OF the condition of the funds
from the sale OF the bonds and also
the result of the leagues audit OF the
bills for city work.
The report shows that from the
bonds sold, including their premiums,
a total fund of $3,514.520 has been de-
rived. The amount of bonds sold was
sS,2So, 900 ana the premiums s234,520.
The total amount OF bills against the
city. as audited by the leagues bureau
Of inspection, is $1s.9s6.40.
During November, the report sets
forth, work on eight reinforced con-
crete fire protection cisterns of $4,000
gallon capacity was begun and is now
nearing completion. Two sewerf con-
tracts are under way and Will be fin
ished within contract time.
The inspection bureau during the
month notified the city engineer of sew
eral cases of noncompliance with spec
ifications' on the part of contractors,
but such cases were all rectified i'm
mediately by the city engineer. Reports
of damages to the pipes and tracks of
public service corporations have been
made and repairs followed Immediately.
In general" the report concludes.
the activity of the bureau has not
only increased the efficiency of the reg
ular inspection by the city, but has
also been effective in causing contrac-
tors to adhere more closely to the stip-
ulations Of their agreements than here
tofore."
The San Francisco call., 1908-12-06
PASTORS Will SPEAK

Five evenings of next week, begin
ming Monday, will be devoted to ad-
dresses on religious SUBJECTS by the
leading clergymen of the city at the
Howard Presbyterian church.
Rev. William RAIDER, D. D., will
make the address Monday evening.
Tuesday evening Rev. z. r Ollie will
speak. -Four prominent local pastors
Rev. D. A. Mobley, D. D.; Rev F.
W. Dean. Rev. g. A Miller and Rev.
J. S. Thomas-will speak Wednesday
evening"
An address by Bishop Edwin Hol,
Hughes, D. D., will be the feature OF
Thursdays services. Rev. T. v
dress Of the week Friday night.
The San Francisco call., 1908-12-06
K.-oF 9. oFFICERs ELECTED

At the annual meeting of San Fran
cisco council No. 615. Knights OF
Columbus, held Tuesday evening, De-
cember l, 1903, the following officers
were elected to serve for. the ensuing
year: DR.. Joseph c. Morrissey, grand
knight: chancellor, George +. Welch;
recorder, Leo c. Lennon: financial sec
retary. p. f. Mccarthy; treasurer. VII
liam D. O'Kane; advocate, E. F. Conlin;
warden. P. Farrell; inside guard,
Joseph Redmond; outside guard, Fran
els Anderson: trustee, e. r. Myrick.
The San Francisco call., 1908-12-06
HARTMANN WILL PLAY
HIS FAREWELL TO-DAY
NioIinist Selects Program for
His Concert in Christian
Science Hall

Arthur Hartmanns farewell concert
in this city viii be given this after
noon at Christian Science hall The
violinist has been given the hearty ap-
provsl and applause OF local musicians
and his playing has created a most
favorable impression. Among the num-
bers which he viii play this afternoon
VIII be a Bach ''Chaconne" which has
been made the subject of an essay by
the musician, who Is 8 writer Of much
experience and eloouence. His essay
on the Bach "ChacoDne" has been trans
lated into many languages and has
been tncOrsed by Joachim, Kreisler,
y saye and other famous vtolinists
Following IS Hartmann's farewell
program.
Concerto IN ID minor ----..----.-----fieu ieuxfenps
--C-hacOnne' ...-.. Bach
de pleur dams mon occur" De Busy Hartmann
10 Wild Rose ---- hseDo~ell-H artmann
ttFarsfaiia --..-..-----...
.. Dedicated 70 Hartmann bv Emil Saurei
s'In the South fantssie founded on southern
melodies such as The Bonnie Blue Flag, .
-Nsssas IN the Cold. Cold Ground and
Dixie
Calm viii play the G minor Ballade
of Chopin and works by Jonas. Rosen-
thai, Mcdowell and by request, LisZt s
la Campanelia."
The San Francisco call., 1908-12-06

: the Rough Rid
be present One
candidates VIII
tertatnment and
fter the instaua-
be set free for
Colonel A. p.
The San Francisco call., 1908-12-06
@wHo OWNS THE EARTHsn

DR.. c. Calvert Smoot, who was. for
merly Unitarian minister IN this
city and who is now a writer and
lyceum lecturer, will deliver an ad-
dress at Equality hall, 139 Albion ave-
nue., this evening. The subject on
which DR.. Smoot will speak IS who
Owns the Earth?' The lecture is free
TO the general public.
The San Francisco call., 1908-12-06

tions from the "oratorio OF the Crea
ton and other works Of Haydn vii
be given by the choir, Samuel e
Mayer organist and director. and th
pastor, Rev. George c. Adams D. d
will give some "Reminiscences of tn
great composer
The San Francisco call., 1908-12-06
or Course You Are Going 70 the Auto
Races

special train for Tanforan leaves Sd
and Townsend SITS. 1870 p. M. Valencia
December 5th and 9Th. returning after
TIE races Round trip 60c one way
either direction CSC. Particulars at
ticket Offices SS4 Market St, IA Powell
a. Third and Townsend cts.
The San Francisco call., 1908-12-06

TreadweIl. assisted by Major sylvester
Snaben and stan. viii bs present 70
assist in ths ceremonies OF installa-
ton. 1t has been agreed tnar Lieu
tenant Colonel 7. A Peterson snail
take charge and be IN command OF
The San Francisco call., 1908-12-06
is Days More

To DO your gift buying. Our large
Xmas stock OF Jewelry, Silverware.
Diamonds, ETC.. makes selection easy.
Visit Sorenson Co. stores, 715 Market
st. near Sd or 1888 Mission St near 22d. .