The sun., 1908-03-22

Eer there are much more appropriate sur
roundings.
Before the hotel is the fish market, II
is duartered in a long iron building. Al
both ends Of this rectangle, up TO a point
about ten feet from the centre on each side
are white marble slabs on which the fish
lie during the morning. After the noon
hour the remaining stock ia put on ice, the
slabs are flooded with water and there re-
mains no visible trace Of the stock in trade
OF the house Of Bucci Between the tables
which are spread in the centre OF the build
ing and the marble slabs are small bushes
growing In pots, which serve TO hide almost
entirely the two ends Of the market In which
business is transacted, This open air din
ing room-for il is almost out Of doors,
80 easily may the glass walls Of the market
be Opened--makes a very delightful re-
treat In the warmth OF the Roman summer.
There are deep plates piled with fresh
water mussels prepared with a rich brown
sauce called 'zuppa marinara,' which
might serve az a soup or solid, 30 thick
and rich Is 1t. The Suppd di pesee, or fish
soup, Ia made Of 40 many kinds Of filmed
and scaly Creatures that It corresponds
most directly to a bouillabaise. Dory. red
mullet-of the kind so popular at Naples
,cuttleflsh. lobster, whiting. mureana and
the fresh water mussels are 70 be found in
il, and they rest on an appetizing tounda-
ton OF toast Cuttlefsh fried in oil, which
has a very long name in the Italian language,
is another OF the Bucci specialties.
The Milano. situatedln the Piazza Colonna,
serves excellent Italian food 20 the Romans
who flock there. although few Americans
are 10 be found in the place. Veal Ii the
staple dish Of central Italy, and II appears In
many attractive forms In these Roman
L ~ Nkatr nNkav av,aaial-
ties-to take the Milano as q type OF its
class-are very young lamb and goat stewed
together with anohovies, a kind OF pete
OF macaroni, which comes TO the table in
the form Of a pie; a species of maoaroni
whic,,. consists Of small balls Of paste and
IA boiled and served with melted butter
and cheese. green peas rolled in ham and
boiled In that way and served with butter
sauoe-all these varieties are added 10 the
bill Of fare at the Milano in addition 10 the
chicken, entrecote, outlets and, other Con-
tinental dishes with no markedly local
peculiarly.
Prices at the Milano, which il on the op-
posite side Of the Piazza from the Colonna
are about the same as the rate prevailing
in Naples. A dish will cost about half a lira
and a quarter, although chicken may be
higher. The restaurants OF the class de-
soribed rarely have such Injuries as game
on their bills Of fare, although they are by
no means the cheapest,
One strikes the Tuscan kitchen in Flor
snos. Tuscan eating houses are advertised
In Rome and Naples, and one is thereby
made aware Of its supposed excellence 10
Italians. The average American will how
evor, observe very little difference from what
be, has had In the other two cities. There
are less tomatoes In the color scheme than
Naples affords, for that vegetable Is a special
Of the southern city. The same things
may be called by different names, espe-
ciAlly the soups, but nothing that he eats
will make % much impression as the way in
which the dishes are arranged on the bills