The San Francisco call., 1908-12-06
Americans Revive Business
of HOtelmen in Paris
Audacious Costumes Worn by Women in
French Capital to Display Figures
By La Voyageuse
IspeeiaI corIespondsnos to Ths osnl

Especial Correspondence to The Call
PARIS, Nov. 20.-I1otel keepers in
Paris are wearing smiles OF supreme
satisfaction for the reason that the
pinch of the dull season has been un-
pectedly relieved Of its dearth of profit
bringing travellers by the unlocked for
arrival Of American visitors. A num-
Der Of them. it is true, VINO came by
recent vessels touching first at Brit
ish ports, have remained over in Ing
land but others have come direct to
Paris. the Mecca Of all European Wis
itors. while those who are tarrying
across the channel viii sooner or later
arrive here Many Of the new comers
viii pass Christmas i'm Paris on in the
south OF France. while bookings at the
steamship Offices show that a number
Of Americans. and among them num-
her Of Californians, viii cross the ocean
70 visit Paris during the winter
Strange though it may seem, Paris
JAMS are accusing their city Of being
less clean than any other great capi-
tai OF Europe At a meeting OF the
Paris municipal council one member,
~ Cherioux, expressed the opinion
that il was Impossible TO deny that
such was the case. He attributed this
state OF affairs to the fact that there
had been an extraordinary increase in
travel during the last few years, while
The pavements were Uttered with the
number Of advertising handbills
NJ CherlOux also objected TO the
number of showcases which were al
lowed to stand outside Paris stores.
p He suggested that their use be forbid
den. He also criticised the manner
in which the streets Of Paris were
cleaned. declaring that the street
cleaning service was bad, and, further
more. that the men employed to do the
work were not provided with proper
tools
Although chic" Parisiennes are not
as eccentric as are some of the lead
ers Of the smart set in New York, they
are, perhaps, more daring. 1t is GER
tainlv many years since>such audacious
. costumes as those which are now being
worn have been seen in the French cap
ital- The queens Of fashion have taken
as their model Nine. Tallien, the fam
Gus directoire beauty, who, in her de-
sire to preserve the contour of her
ideal figure. had the materials of her
dress actually attached ID her BODY
by means OF mucilsge.
Although the directoire costume
caused a sensation when II came out
last summer, ii may be termed modest
when compared with some of the latest
novelties. such as the robe pantalon
and the corset pantalon.' the lower
uart Of each Of which consists in tight
fitting ~culottes7 beneath the dress.
The desire Of the smart Parisienne of
today. apparently, is TO display as much
Of the outline Of the figure as possible.
The question Of good taste, not to say
decency, in this regard, is another mat
ter.7
One result Of the introduction of
these slightly built costumes is that
whereas about eighteen yards of ma
feriai We're required for a dress, the
woman or today finds five yards sufl-
cient. Prices, however, show no similar
shrinkage. One house in Paris, whose
customers are chiefly wealthy Ameri-
can women, makes a speciality of cotton
net blouses. trimmed with little sill
yer lace at the throat A charge of
only $50 is made for this.
A walk I'D the Champs Elysees or
through the Avenue du Bois de Bou-
logne at present shows that most Of the
! women are buried under enormous fur
toques. An entire fox's head and tail
IS employed in making some of them
which come right over the foreheads OF
the wearers, making them look like
. Russian coachmen. To add to the
Erotesoue effect of the present style OF
3 hats, IN many cases a huge feather, q
Ia Mephistopheles, is placed at each
side OF the head. For one of these
1nopstrosities 500 is regarded as low
price. As one woman Of fashion said
yesterday. You can hardly get any
=. thing for that price,
woman whose position IN society
enables her TO speak with authority,
when asked what it would cost to dress
IN Up 10 date Parisienne as she would
desire to appear, IL given carte blanche
st one Of the best shops in Paris. made
The following rapid calculation: Dress,
$500, hat. 5000; FUR mantle, $500; stole
and muf. $3.50; corsets. lingerie. boots
etc. 500 Total. S2250."
"Of course" she added. If the lady
insists on having diamond buckles on
1ler gsrters. there is no limit to the
amount she can spend
Even IN her eccentricities, the real
Parisienne Of fashion does not depart
from good taste. The jewelry most in
vogue at present consists OF diamonds
with invisible mounts and platinum set
aings that can hardly be seen. The old
fashioned long drop or luster earrings
which were in favor at the time OF
Marie Antoinette, under the name OF
--briEnolets.' are coming in again. The
latest thing in pendants is of Egyptian
work. with scarabees mounted in gold
settings. Precious stones for feminine
adornment are now being cut with fiat
surfaces, instead Of facets.
Women have been trying for a long
time to compass some new means OF
displaying the enormously long ropes
OF pearls the more fortunate ones pos
sess. They have tried wearing them
around their throats, looped up in front
of the corsage; they have arranged
them in splendid profusion upon the
back Of the corsage, just as they now
wear their heavy furs, with a band in
front Of the throat and a cascade ef
tails and heads down the back. But
festooned over the brow the pearls as
sumo quite an unusual position, and
one that is undoubtedly picturesque.
The notion was inspired by East Indian
potentates, some of whom have visited
Paris during the summer. whose gems
were arranged much in the manner
newly adopted by the fashionable
women. but more completely upon their
tlirbais-
The automobile may have its dis
q agreeable features IT does smell to