The Washington bee., 1908-01-25
SOME SEWING HINTS
FOR THE WOMAN OF ECONOMICAL
TURN OF MIND.
Width of Shoulders d Distinctive Mari
Of the New Shrtwaists-HoW
Proper Effect May Be
Given Them.

The new shirt waist is distinctive on
account of the width of the shoulders
Do not imagine for one moment thaI
this effect may be obtained by cutting
the shoulder seam extra long-that 81
10 say, by running it down on the
arm.
II can't
The proper width must be given by
the correct line Of the shoulder seamS Il
otherwise the sleeve cannot be pTopI
erly put in, and will droop in an ugly
way over the arm, giving an ill-fttingI
thoroughly homemade appearance I'd
the shirtwaist.
It will be real economy to buy q
plain shirtwaist Of the newest cut and
the proper bust measure and not att
tempt to remodel pattern Of the last
season. The new pattern will be cut
out according to the lines of an expert
draughtsman, and with care in using
il a perfect shirtwaist is bound to rel
suit.
In the majority of the waists shown
variety is given by the different ways
of trimming and not by Different
shaped patterns When tuCks are To
be used no matter how they ard
shaped or grouped, the length of the
back and the fronts should be torn
from the material, and the tuckingl
done on these straight pieces.
II the waist is to button in front and
the tucks are to run the full length, ii
will be found much easier to leave the
fronts in one piece and tuck them. ~
it buttons in the back. the same Ideal
will naturally follow. In so doing,
the possibility of the two sides being
unevenly spaced will be done away
with
When insertion of lace or en-
broi6ery are used between the groups
of tucks II will be more economical II
the pattern is pinned on the piece,
and the fronts and back cut out before
the insertion is sewed on. In this way
will be avoided the waste OF lace and
embroidery when the neck and arm
holes are cut out.
When basting the insertion on,
baste through to the right side OF the
material, and stitch it by machine on
each side Then the material is cut
from beneath, leaving about one
eighth of an inch on each side to turn
back and stitch down neatly so that
il will not fray The sleeves, cuffs
and collars of all the lingerie waists
should be trimmed in the same way.
When cutting out the waist the
grain of the material at both the cen
ter front and center back must be
run on the straight. This, by the way,
must be strictly observed when creas-
ing for the tucks.
Care must be taken when fitting
and putting the pieces together. par
ticularly when using thin material, as
an unlined waist has nothing TO hang
upon and keep IL In position at the
top save the cOllarband. Fhe waist
band must be depended upon for the
rest, SO both the collar and waistband
must have careful attention.
II # is necessary to make adjust
ments in a pattern, such as correcting
the waist line, or the spacing OF the
gathers, the amateur invariably is
tempted to bring the fullness into a
very narrow space on each side Of the
center front and back.
This is a great mistake. II cannot
fail to give ugly lines to the waist.
The fullness should fall in straight
lines from the shoulders to the waist
line, no matter whether the figure be
stout or slender.
To avoid this have ready piece OF
inch-wide tape or a straight muslin
band Of that width with the raw
edges turned in. After the waist has
been adjusted at the shoulders and
neck, find the center back and front
Of the waist line and at the same time
the center Of the tape.