The sun., 1908-12-06
ibis IS SgHAFTHEYTBASTQH
THE zVEkA6E DINING Gu
STANDARDIZED BdNDUSa.
Features Of the Inyarlabie Menn-A
ervsir Of Brown sause END -
-Gresm Aeme where More Fublle ul'I7
% neFs--Chanee for = Gifted GHefa


erysir Of Brown saueA sf<l HHH
.Gresm seme eW1Tere--Mere FubIls E1l'
.e neFs-Chanee for . Gifted C'l<fa
the NUMBER of so-called public dinner
III New York has increased out pf 81
proportion to the size Of the popuIatI1
Dining clubs. whether they meet IL t|I'1
most expensive restaurants or in Ez1
so-called bohemian resorts. are neHE.
and 80 devoted are their members =
the. enjoyment provided that one sue
organization holdsi its meetings ell thr1lE =
Another never misses Sunday nieh
from November to May. One that hoI4z
a monthly meeting throughout the -
never gathers less than 300 persons ae -
so cent dinner and is usually able to z =
arspeaker who is by no means OF IL
modest level Of the cost of the meal.
The great increase Of the nurnbef eE
strangers In New York is given as 4II'
reason for this increase In the nunzaeX
OF club dinners. The opportunitt f#
enjoy society for one evening Q m4A'1t
or a week, possibly to make acqueikz
ances and at least to feel that they ere
q part of New York Just as are the ethe.
public diners that they read aben9
In the papers is an inducement to pe
comers to join such organizations
Few of the clubs offer enough 10 til4
way Of food to make membership u
them an object. nor does the avcraSe
public dinner in New York make zEt
appeal on that ground. The food "a
these occasions La not the strong puifit.
1t was the result of years Of expefieeea
that habitua diner out who FsfflF
failed to attend every dinner to whs2'z
he was invited embodied in the foilos
pointed observations: ss.s5
"Why public dinners should nck Na
better than they are he said. srI hhye
never been able to find out. Vet Il raf1lx
happens, Whatever the price may ha4es
been, that after the dinner 1t 10 posslhl9
to say, That was good More reEnass
able even Is the lack of variety In The
dishes. II every dinner consists Of flis
same number of courses 1t does nqt
follow that every one ehglzld
offer the same dishes. Y
aTake the average dinner. About tn
table are hoTs' d'csuvres that the bill Of
fare will possibly describe as 'yarida
Yet one rarely finds anything else thee
waterlogged radishes> olives that hare
faded from their original color by exec
sive proximity to crushed ice. and 20
called salted almonds. A sailed ainpond
properly made. dark brown, crisp pnd
shiny like old mahogany, is Q thing qg
gastric delight; but such a result means
care and time. The salted almond of the
public dinner is nut that has been Dipped
into whiteSof egg. then into salt and then
Kept on the fire scarcely long enough e
warm it through.
after these tempting appetisera tfegH
comes the soup. find after o qtielz<F
Of a century that compound descfzt44
as printaniere' is the fayorite YtiHa
consists Of watefy bouillon which eqp<
not be warm after IL had been paF1de6
he length of dining room,
HThe spring effect that the name fuEs
rests is supplied by small round Objects
hat are usually as hard as rocks and flitIt
as little taste tq the adventurous dIner
Who tries his teekh on them, I supf,oea
the small gfeeI4 balls. represent F&sa
while the pink bblls are beets and the
yellow represent farrots. The only d}{~
terence is in the dalor.
HThe reckless nner Jumps them fo-
gether In spool and swallows than.
have seen few persons brave enough -
isF assimoa saaans is shs% shs hh nine times ous j
EN-. 1t is never the, pink Of memcry bit
always rather pale and wshbly loo1fuk
more like jelly than fab. Then there Is TIE
he %sss e asI Syf 81 lss ssGS e. bout
mode, unless the chef Is some erf41zc
genius who insists ondepartfnk from this
lime honored dish. It consists OF IuEiifa
of rather tough meat, pieces OF fat being
Inserted at intervals. and thick bTo&n
gravy covering ALL
about this dish. Why, for inqt4Ec1
should the beef always be 20 gtYin@v.
why should the insertions OF fat bee go hard
and why above all things should the nf&Es
De so cold? But al these q,ss=ss..csss= - s===-s :
In the presence Of the Ne9I
brown sauce. q ~ a't t
There must be q culinary resarrnir
that, contains gallons and
gallons of this mixture, It overfiowa 81
svery dinner table between New York and
California, The most expert sidesteprar
,annot dodge 1t. It Is bound to turn NJ
IN the fish or In. .thesoup. It sat the public
timer and it is on the ordinary bib of
lare. Great Is brown sauce. t s
@when q shivery, jellylike struuta1re
8 placed before you, sometimes pink ct 8
yreen In color. it is safe TO look on the bill
IL fare for some jocnlar allusion to tho
,biect Of the dinner. It will be oatitd
inlbales Brown or Jones or Smith. What
,yer IL is called the harmless comppu4d =
II -four and milk and rice viii have no
worse effect than t7king away. what res
mains OF the appetite. Thht IL q good
hing to have happen before the tsffariil
oomes on. A
aThe terrapin is certain to be intas<st.
ng, whatever it tastes like. 1T Will have
unny little claws, pieces OF fuzzy el<inf
md large Jumps Of veal 70 get ones t65lf
nto every once in while. Over {f ali
ril be put yellow sauce 50 strong Wlt.f. I
ooking sherry that no matter what 10
ngredients Of the mysterious dioh 11oz &
70 It will taste Of nothing but sl<Ff
nd that is consolation 70 eyerH H5
he table. III terFapin at fas9 &Fo|1 S
ubio dinner tasted Of NiI IA "a
hings that were In it, tOo62inE R1ez
Iould never be effective enough.
sThe worst Is over after tbs 41yff<
he fiat chested squab that my
alary as game or its inevit4Nt4 alt
i've. the reed bird on toast Hhich
revicus incarnatiSns ts~ iss>><=s7a 5IiS5ESss
ousetop as merry Enz3ish spai
an be ignored with no ternptatio3 tc
ldulge In 1t. The salad always looks like
be lettuce leaf that the canary bird
sThe ioe in ninstsen out OF twenty will
e q paper full of cream with grated
nacaroons on top. 1t must be supplied
rom aorne adfIfo0 inst as OnDaOioiia and