davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15
The Directoire Tendency-Clever Mod
ifications of This Mode Waistcoats
Important Adjuncts- and
Their Colorings
Mod

the popular fancy appears to run particu
larly to very wide hercules and the SIM
pier Of the basket weaves. of course aid
ed and abetted by soutache wherever It is
possible to place it.
Ways Of Waistcoats.
Some of the waistcoats which are used.
OF. rather. are a part of the new coats.
are strikingly like those known as the
continental that was brought out last au-
tumn. They are exceedingly long. semi
fitting and ornately trimmed with SOU
tache embroidery, with Persian bands or
with gold bullion. These vests are in
tended primarily to afford additional
warmth to the coats that are cut away
from the bust and are positive neces-
sity during the winters of this climate.
Another sort of waistcOat. however. which
is rather more new-considering the sub
ject from the viewpoint that the directoire
is a noyelty-is cut straight across at the
waistline. is double breasted and V neck
ed. Either of these types Is Immensely
smart in conjunction with the modified
directo.re coat seen at the present writing
on this side of the Atlantic.
Short WASTED Effects.
The short wasted effect at the back of
the tailored coat Is one Of the features
which give it the right to lay claim to
process is gained in two ways. The
model most in evidence has the short ap-
pearance at the waistline. simply because
the back forms are slightly widened at
that point, giving the entire garment
loose appearance. This effect is frequently
accentusted by the arrangement of the
braid trimmings or satin landings. which
are so placed as to shorten the line be-
tween the nape Of the neck to just below
the shoulder blades. While a coat OF
this cut would f1t-in the sizes from 30
to AZ bust measure-any FORMALLY shaped
woman. it is not nearly SO susceptible to
successful alterations as one which is cut
in two sections, the upper like an eton
coat and the lower like the attached hip
pieces with which We were familiarized
in the garments which came into vogue
shortly after the production of "A Lady
of Quality and known at that time as
the Julia Arthur coat.
The Alteration Problem.
These two distinct types of directoire
notifications in coats are of immense i'm
portance to the woman who must always
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15

lion woven into the fabric. These. OF
course, are chiefly employed for waist
coat. collar and cuffs Of demi-directoire
coats.
Pompadour colorings figure prominently
on the borders of the delicately tinted
silks and chiffons designed for evening
gowns. These will contend for favor
with the sheer, satin-stripad voies and
chfffons in one tone and the wOndrously
flexible silky worsteds which are SO much
liked for college girls dancing frocks.
The tailor-made girls Of the current
summer who go In strongly for the Sc
verely finished linen coat and skirt cos
tunes of unobtrusive character are max
Ing such suits smart with black and
white striped pongee or linen. widely
turned back cuffs and high turnover col
lars. They supplement- this touch OF con-
trasting shades by replacing the ordinary
buttons on the coats with huge affairs
covered with the same material as that
forming the collar and cuffs. Several
triflng changes TO be made in the Ordi-
nary linen coat of ordinary length and
reasonably clever tailoring will aid i'm
measurably to smarter it and bring 1t
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15

red, yellow or white. Setting away from
these. however, the tendency Is decidedly
FOR gloomy shades. This is particularly
evidenced in the diagonals and smooth
faced cloths which hold so hig a,,oa place !,
believe that a plain fabric never loses its
hold upon the feminine fancy. In all
these cloths there are many charming
tints which have not been in common use
within the recollection Of the younger
generation. One Of these is bronze brown
which combines so well with the channels
shades employed to tighten, il not illumi-
nate, an otherwise dull-looking costume.
Then, too green has again come to the
front, the olives leading and the stone
tints making a good second. for the
tendency is ever toward unobtrusive tints
rather than to the sharp. bright shades,
although peacock must be admitted as an
exception to this general rule.
Every woman who aims to be smartly
dressed is Interested in the vogue of
smoke-gray and the fashionabl mole
shade. better known-and often mispro-
nounced-as taupe.
All of these shades are often seen in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15

ed solely for conventional occasions, thus
making the coat do duty for two pur-
poses, on the principle that any coat will
outwear, two skirts. Since the long skirt
has again come into general vogue, how
ever. talors are realizing that by making
up handsomely trimmed and moderately
priced three-piece suits of this character
that women will gladly buy them. In
most instances the two skirts are of
broadcloth. diagonal hard-finished
worsted matching the coat. but If the
outer garment is deliberately trimmed with
black the long skirt may quite properly
be of black satin. This has the raised
girdle and when it is mounted upon a
black or white lace or net bolster" bod
ice it practically becomes a second dress
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15

get her tailored ready-made suit altered
The coat. cut all in one piece, not includ-
Ing the sleeves. of course. would be liable
to suffer greatly in grace of outline were
the back and side forms to be tempered
with. The other model on the contrary,
while not so close to the directoire origi-
mails. could readily be altered as the hip
sections need only be trifle drawn above
or below the short-waisted line and the
trimming readjusted.
The Sheath Skirt.
The burning question of the hour is.
naturally, the sheath skirt. Will the
American woman adopt it for evening.
afternoon. shopping and business? Will
she put it on when she goes out to teach
school. to write shorthand. to report so
ciety functions and suffragette meetings?
And If she does adopt ii. will Ii cling
like a postage stamp from waistline to
knees and will 1t have an actual opening
al the left side calculated to reveal
elk stocking and kid shoe top? The tai
lors. anxious to have on hand SUFFICIENT
stock TO promptly meet the demands of
their customers whenever that momen-
tous query shall be answered, are mean
while experimenting with the skirt and
developing what. in their opinion is the
one proper for the American woman to
wear.
Solving the Problem.
To solve this problem they are making
a skirt which has the appearance of be-
ing split but actually is joined, and one
that seems to be whole but in reality is
split-and worn over a taffeta drop of an
exactly matching color. In that event
the split garment becomes merely q tunic
to which even the society for the pre-
vention of vice could not reasonably take
exception. The sheath skirt, which is ac-
tually joined all round is an ideal model
for ordinary walking purposes. as it is
four inches from the ground, untrimmed
and finished around the bottom with a
rather broad hem. Necessary fullness is
given to the back by means OF an inverted
double box pleat. Where the seams are
opened at either side similar pleats are
set in. so that when the two edges are
drawn apart by the movements of the
skirts wearer. p!eats instead of silk
stockings are to be seen. The outer skirt,
which is supposed to be worn over a drop
consists of four sections arranged In
pleated cores.
It Will Not Sag.
The point most in favor about the
American sheath skirt as at present de-
veloped is that it is superior to the gored
or fare type, in that it is unlikely to sag
at the sides. This is something that the
woman who does not order a tailormade
costume with every new moon considers
of prime Importance. Seams directly at
the bac and on each side Of a cloth skirt
Enthusiastically hold 1t in position and II.
in addition to this feature, such skirts are
relieved from all strain by the presence of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15

NE of the important questions
which the tailors and modistes in
Paris are now asking them
selves and each other is. will
the American woman take up
the directoire fashion in It's entirety The
answer which is given by many of the
American tailors and dressmakers is that
she will not. They declare. out of the
wisdom Of their experience In endeavoring
to please her. that she will not. as a
class, harbor any Of the extremes. They
say. however, that here as everywhere
else in the civilized world. there are
women who will carry the fad to its
uttermost limits. Nevertheless it is the
consensus of opinion that the American
woman is not adapted either by figure or
nature for these extreme modes. She
walks too quickly and takes steps that
are too short. The sheath skirt demands
a leisurely. gliding gait and its long
tailored coat does not accord with Jerky
movement of the hips.
The Modified Types.
There will be directories, of course. but
Of greatly modified type. In these the
coats are Of first Importance in that they
are the most noticeable feature of tai
lored walking costume. Almost without
exception they are between forty and
fifty inches long. sometimes only at the
back and sides and cut Off in front above
the knees and often at the waistline
Their sleeves are Of medium size. gen.
orally shirred or side plated into the
armsize. but invariably of full length.
and often finished with a broad turned
back cuff On most Of them the incroy-
able collar appears either In the shape Of
a straight high band terminating just in
front of the ears or in one almost closing
beneath the chin.
Trimming of Two Types.
These modified directore suits are trim
med in two distinct ways. On many of
them. particularly those of the palmer
sort are the long popular bias satin
bands These are of about half inch
width and there seems to be an almost
hard and fast rule in their application
Black satin is usually put on black. navy
blue and dark gray. while the other co..
ors carry their own shades All sorts of
fancy braid trimmings are. employed, but
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15
Borax and Rose Water.

An effective lotion for tan and freckles
is saturated solution OF borax in rose
water. AS much of the powder is put
into the perfumed water as the latter will
dissolve. and this is frequently applied
to the skin and allowed to dry on. This
mixture is beneficial in ways in which the
plain saturated solution seem to have
no effect. and though the rose water is a
substitute for the plain saturated mix
ture, 1.-THE latter does not bring the same
results as rose water
Heroic measures TO eradicate tan and
freckles only made a bad matter worse.
The blotches Or brown may be removed.
but only temporarily. because the cpl
Germis has been made sensitive by the
action of powerful application, and there
fore becomes more than ever susceptible
TO influence by sun or heat.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15

with nothing about it suggestive of a
makeshift
The Autumn Tints.
With the vogue Of coats and skirts per-
tanning to the olden times there has been
revived a fancy for those quaint old hues
seen in the scraps Of ancient silk poplin
and ribbon which form pieced bedspreads,
crazy quilts and sofa pillows dear to the
hearts of our grandmothers and maiden
aunts-probably oeause of the recollections
which they renew OF past times, faces and
pleasures The shade which the owners
of the patchwork blocks still Gall 'prune''
bears strange resemblance to the mod
ern wistaria. and that fondly referred to
as magenta is marvelously like null
berry. Then there Is queer brOwnish
pink that has the look of the rose leaf
pot pourri and the lavender that was
years ago regarded as the only proper
shade for first relief TO the black and
white of second mourning or for woman
to wear when undertaking matrimony for
the second time.
Blue Best of All.
In the autumn tailor suit tints there is
numbered a new blue bearing the honored
name of Edison. This is also among the
faded shades: that is. SO soon as ii is put
into juxtaposition with navy or peacock.
At first glance it seems TO he of the cleo
trio family. as naturally il should be. but
II is much more dull. fact which does
not seem quite just to the great modern
magician whose name ii bears. At any
rate this new blue seems to take with
woman generally and bids fair to be ire
mendously popular for the simpler type OF
tailormades. One reason is that navy has
been used for SO long and that peacock
is rather startling and has way or
swearing at any other tint or azure with
which il is combined. As blue OF dull
tone is always a practical shade for year
round utility wear. Ii is the best OF all
colors for the woman who. greatly against
her natural inclination, must make one
costume do duty for variety Of occa-
sions.
Ultra Smart Tailormade.
An ultra smart type of the tailormade
autumn costume but one which will be
distinctly out of date when the directoire
fad has died the sudden and violent death
which many people predict for 1t. consists
of a gored-pleated walking skirt with
"make-bc.ieve'' split sides trimmed with
black silk braid military ornaments. and
an attached high girdle. also deliberately
braid trimmed. and SO shaped as to great
~ shorten the apparent length of the
waist The coat has all of the fascinating
features of the extreme d1rectoire mode
and none of its eccentricities. There is
the waist length. back and front tight
fitting little jacket, with the elongated
side tabs. the short, turned back revers.
the ornate waistcoat of the French dandy
the big fancy buttons. the high turnover
collar and sash. But there the resem-
blance ends for the sleeves. while long
and small. are not so close as to make the
arm look like dangling, useless pins. and
the shoulders are cut in wide effect rather
IN, "a!
narrow -chested appearance of the eight
zenith century dude. 1t is just a wee bit
theatric this little imitation of the direc-
toire and only to be essayed by modest
looking and slenderly built woman. who
would carry it naturally and not with an
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15
Novel ParaS0I Handles.

Among the novel handles seen on the
parasols this season is stick support
ing a frame covered with vivid green taf-
feta. The parasol is perfectly plain. save
for a hemstitching a couple of inches
above the edge and the handle OF dull
black wood rather thick sticks 60.
with carving OF a black cat. fully as large
as a natural kitten. at the end. The cat
had immense green eyes. The fact Of the
animal being fiat made ii possible to car
ry the sunshade comfortably. The price
is $40
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15

Because OF it's soft and cinging charac-
denly coming into vogue. especially for
the more elaborate order OF tailormades,
although they will be worn in short Sc
we're suits during the winter by girls who
are within several years OF making their
initial bow to society. For afternoon re-
on velvet will. of course. have the long
skirt slightly trimmed with chenille. Jet
or god bullion. and coats or any lenRth
from 30 to ~ inches. usually bearing d.
rectoire earmarks and always with full
length sleeves. When velvet is employed
solely as material for street suit its
trimming will be simpler and Of the satin
band or fancy braid order. as was the case
last season with the comparatively few
costumes worn of that fabric.
Tailormade Suit Accessories.
Much Of the smart effect Of any tailor
made suit depends upon its accessories.
Needless to say. anything savoring OF the
directoire should not be accompanied by
a linen collar and a stff little tie. These
belong to what is known the English
type of street suit. meaning the severely
tailored box or semi-fitting coat and gored
or pleated skirt. minus trimming. With
the French model there should he a high
lace collar or a chiffon stock-gfvine the
desired soft effect about the chin-and the
fr.lly lacey front. in addition to the wrist
ruff1es which should he of finest hand
weave or hand embroidery Immediately
white,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15
WIND BEUTEL.

For these puffs use half a pound of
butter, half pound of fine -four. a cup
of water and eight fresh eggs. Clarity
the butter pouring off the salt, then heat
with the water until it comes to the boil
ing point. Gradually stir in the sifted
flour until the dough cleaves to the sides
of the pan. Take from the stove and
cool slightly before adding few gratings
of nutmeg, a little grated lemon peel and
the eggs.
Beat the eggs through and through the
batter with a steady motion. Turn the
mixture in well buttered plate and di-
vide into cakes the size of walnuts. Set
in a quick oven and bake a golden brown.
When done dust with powdered sugar
and serve Immediately.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15
Frosting Without Eggs.

Cook in an agate saucepan one cupful
sugar and a quarter cup milk. AS soon
as little dropped in cold water makes a
soft ball when rolled between the fingers.
take from the fire. flavor and beat until
il thickens. then spread. For a chocolate
filling use brown sugar instead OF white.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15
The Twin Skirt idea.

To have two skirts for one coat is by
no means q novel scheme, for it has long
been the custom of the woman who aims
to dress smartly on a limited income to
order annually one expensive tailored
coat and with it a short or walking skirt.
as we'll as one that Is trained ano intend
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15

a set Of inverted pleats at back and sides.
they are safe to keep their shape under
ordinary conditions. This rule. of course,
applies wholly to the walking length skirt.
for the question of sagging is not of vital
importance where long skirt is con-
cerned
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15
R<7o zoaLIo2 Aasz
az Ahe 2X7eCLnZ<e

assumed swagger But the coat is emf
nently practical i'm that IL would accord
we'll with long skirt of satin or cloth OF
precisely the color of the suit.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15

The Alteration Problem.
These two distinct types of directoire
notifications in coats are Of immense i'm
portance to the woman who must always
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-15

with nothing about it suggestive of
makeshift
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1908-03-07

a propuesta del conceal sefIor
Campillo, fue acUerdo recomendar al
sefior Alcalde el arreglo de las bocas
de alcaDtarillas de las GALES Allen
eSquina q San Jose y O'Donnel es-
quina San Francisco, por encontrar-
Sc ese sitio resbaladizo ofrecer con
este motive constante peligro 4 los
tranSeunteS.
HOSPITAL MUNICIPAL.-Ayer
irgrese en- este establecimiento, Re
migio Cepeda
Fueron dados de alta curados No
MICA Parrilla y Ernesto Losada.
Quedan en- asistencia u enfermos.
En- Ell Hospital cuarentenario hay
tres enfermos.
Observation-Disclosures de dete-
nidos en- el dfa de aver. Varones as
y mujeres IL sufriendo condena ~
varones y mujeres pen1ientes de
causa. Quedan en- Ell dia de hoy 81.
Han salido por cumplimiento de
condena Ramona Hernandez, Ramon
Vega, Jose Serreno, Valentin Lagu-
ma, Jose Pacheco, Gregorio Ortiz y
S,erahn Diez.
JUZGADO MUNICIPAL HOY han
sido conducidos al juzgado por iugar
a 10 prohibido Fidel Urbiztondo.
Martin Pacheco, Carmelo Rosa. Ra-
fael Quifiones, Jose Rivera. Narciso
Marcano, Angel Calder6n, Nicasio
Urbina, Aniceto Monge, Monserrate
Quiflones, Nicolas Ayala y Narciso
Ramos
La sorpresa Sc verified en- Santurce
cuando esta ban Gichos individuos iu-
gando a"Pares nones'
CUARTO DE SOCORRO.-Hasta
la mafiana de hoy fueron asistidas
por ell practicante de servicio don Ra-
mon Llauger, las siguientes perso-
mas: Jose Vidarreta, de una herida
contusa de dos centimetro en- la re-
gion frontal; el nif1o Luis Rivera, he
rida contusa de I'm centfmetro en- la
region frontal; Bautista Ramos. con-
fusion en- la region frontal; Juan An
dino, confusion de primer grado en-
ell dorso del pie izquierdo, y los nifios
Eladio Nieves Manuel Janer, Ell
prinero, de una herida produciaa por
un clavo y ell segundo por I'm vidrio,
ambos en- la planta izqnierda. Todas
leves.
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1908-03-07
NOtaS nIuniIcIIpa|eS
SESSION DEL JUEVES

Concurrentes. Presidente, sefIor
Sanchez Morales. Concejales, sef1o-
res Larroca, Campillo, Ponte, Viflas y
Faura.
Dejaron de asistir los sefiores Sa-
las, Rosario y Fal1.
Sc lego y fue aprobada ell acta de
la session anterior.
Fue acuerdo pasar a la Comision de
Fomento la reclamation de don Fran
cisco Escalona, rematista de las obras
de pavimentacion de GALES alcanta
rillado en- Puerta de TERRA. sobre co
bro de tubos sobrantes en- dichas
obras.
-Fueron designados los seflores
Ponte y Larroca, en- Comisi ion espe
cial para que, de acuerdo con Ell Inge-
micro de la ciudad, informe en- ell
asunto sobre franquicia de un muelle
de espigon favor del Municipio de
San Juan.
Sc dl0 cuenta con Ia carta del al :
calde de la ciudad indicando Ell deseo
de don Nemesio Ventura de que la
Corporation Sc coupe en- acto Official
de su trabajo art1stico de orfebreria,
que tuvo a bien exhibir aute algunos
de los seflores Concojales, Ell dia dos
de los corrientes.
FL Concejo, a propuesta del ccnce-
jal stflor Larroca, acuerda felic tar
al sefor Nemesio Ventura por el tra-
bajo artistico resentado, hacienda
constar ademas la satisfaction que ex-
perimenta de que un puertorriqueno
como 10 es el sefior Ventura, haya
realizado TN trabajo de tan lndiscuti :
Bile merito.
"A la solicitud de Ia Sociedad
M1sico Teatral, acuerda Ell Concejo
que solo satisfaga por cada function
Ia suma de ounce dollars, que es el
precio mas bajo en- la tarifa de su
clase; eximi6ndola ademas del pago
de arbitrio por espetaculo publico.
-Queda sobre la mesa la solicitud
de Juana Pagani, sobre construction
de I'm kiosco en- la plaza Colon.
-lgualmente queda sobre la mesa
el proyecto de ley del sefior Was
Ochoteco, sobre modi6cacion del Sis
tema judicial en- Puerto Rico.
Sc entera ell Concejo del estado
de Ia Gaia municipal EN- 20 de Fe-
brero tltimo. con una existencia de
$I5o.o88 90.
Sc entera asimismo Ell Conceio
del estado de las obras municipales
y de las pendientes de ejecucioa, y
causas que impiden el comienzo de
algunas dc elias. segl1n el informe
de la Comisi6n designada para dar
cuenta de misma.
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1908-03-07
|nNIQGi6n { ID eyCuQdTQ

FL gobierno australiano ha
invitado a los buques de la es-
cuadra para que visiten algu-
nos de sus puertos y el Secre-
tario Root al darle las gracias
pOr su atencion. le manifesto
que no estaba acordado todavia
el intinerario que ha de seguir
la escuadra pero que es pro-
bable que regresara por el Ca
nal de Suez y que sc alegraria
de que pudieran destacarse al
gunos acorazados de la misma
para visitar los puertos de la
Australia.
Esta promesa, aunque vaga,
sc considera generalmente como
muy premature.
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1908-03-07
una PROT ESTA

Habiendose prohibido la entrada
en- las oicinas del cuartel general de
la policfa a los reporters de los perio-
dicos y facilitandose Ell parte de los
sucesos, en- forma que consideramos
despectiva nos abstenemos de pu-
blicarlos hoy en- sefial de protesta.
Esperamos que Ell digno jefe de Ia
policfa Insular que tantas veces
dado prueba de su cortesfa, atendera
nuestra justa queja.
BoletiÌn mercantil de Puerto Rico. (San Juan, P.R.) 18??-1918, 1908-03-07
SePvlclo Especial del bOIel1n MtfcanlII
OABLEGRAMAS.
Lo que dice eI rey Eduardo
Alarmas prematuras

Nueva York sabado.-Gablegrafia de Lon.
dres que las explicaciones del presidente del
Consejo de Ministries. han sido muy POGO expli-
citas han dejado en- el amino popular la in
certidumbre aumentada por los art1culos excl
tadores de la prensa.
Ell rey Eduardo ha dicho que existe
ningun motive para Greer que Inglaterra tole-
rase ninguna potencia la menor intromision
en- sus asuntos.