Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05
WHERE EAST MEETS WEST
BEAUTY OF THE COAST OF DIAL
malta AND MONTENEGRO.
Little Cultivated Land-Interior
Wild and Lonely-High Noun
tains-Picturesque People.

From he National Geographic Magazine
The Dalmatian coast deserves its repu-
tation for picturesque beauty. The great
limestone mountains-practicall bare of
vegetation and eliminating in peaks over
j 600 feet high. descend to the sea In an
almost unbroken line, while continual
fringe of islands forms a buffer between
the coast and the Adriatic from F'iume to
where the Bocche di Cattaro lies like a
giant starfish spread out upon the land.
cutting deep into the mountains with its
great tentacles-
The fertile rivieras lie in hooks of the
coast. sheltered from the fierce bora.
1.-The wind of DEATH" which in winter
sweeps down from the mourNain gorges
with terrific force: these are practically
the ONLY cultivated lands in this desert
country. The contrast between the island
studded sea. the rugged mountains ana
the semi-tropical vegetation combined
with old world architecture of the cities
affords a picture not easily forgotten.
The interior is wild, lonely and impress
sive. and so barren and uninviting that.
except for the Falls of the kerka, II IS
seldom visited by the traveller. Beautiful
in the extreme. the falls. or rather cas-
cades gain an added interest from their
source being one of those underground
rivers not uncommon in this part OF Eu-
rope The Kerka rises to the surface or
the ground in the form or blue-green
lake. surrounded by verdure. the life and
color appearing like miracle IN the miost
Of the desolate hills.
The towns of the coast are distinctive
and have each their special points or IN
terest as well architectural beauty
Zala and Sebenico have fine Duomos. Spa
iato and Salona are famous for their Ro-
man remains. and, indeed, much OF Spa
lato is built within the walls OF Dlocie-
tian's palace, while at Trau and Ragusa
are admra BILE examples of medieval archi-
lecture dating from the occupation or in
f1uence of Venice.
City of Ragusa.
Ragusa is easily queen of the Dalma-
tan cities None can compare with her in
beauty of site or architectural and his
torical interest. She has stood for CEN
turtles sister republic to Venice, bul-
wark in Europe against the Turk. wise
and prosperous state. The great walls
still inclose the town and are practically
intact They form striking contrast 10
the architectural delicacy of the public
buildings and palaces which rise on the
steeply terraced streets. for the town Is
built on a narrow peninsula between
the mountains and the sea. Sundays.
when the peasants from Canalle come In
for church and the smart Austrian Of
ficers promenade about. the gay little city
presents an almost opera boune aspect,
with the medieval setting and the bril-
liant crowds flashing with color and mill
tary pomp.
The environs are most lovely, the wealth
of figs aloes, expresses. and every sort
of semi-tropical and rock-blooming plant
making the surrounding country veri-
table garden in spring and early sum-
mer Lacroma and the other neighboring
islands seem fairy isles. too exquisite for
human habitation. but about the former
hang sad memories Of Prince Rudolph
and Emperor Maxlmiilian ana iegendary
ones OF Richard Occur de Lion. for the
old monastery was once a faVOr1te resort
of royalty, but has since been restored to
its former uses.
The morlaks or peasants are sturdy,
Independent race, mostly OF Slav extrac-
ton, and distinctly we'll to do, especially
about Spalato and Ragusa. where the
soil is fertile and the crops large.
Quaint Costumes in Dalmatia.
The tiny Dalmatian cap of scarlet cloth.
half embroidered in black with a black
tassel is worn by the men the entire
| length of the coast. while no inhabitant
of the peninsula is seen without the use
full bag slung over one shoulder of woven
carpet material. embroidered linen. or
leather studded with nails. 1t serves all
PURPOSES cradle for the baby, a ward
robe for the family clothes, a larder for
the provisions, as well as a convenient re-
ceptacle for little pigs going to market!
Except for these common features the
costumes vary in every district. At lara
may be seen the striking sleeveless scar
,, let vest Ornamented with silver buttons
while about SebenicO the men affect
curious waistcoat and Jacket of brown
homespun, piped and trimmed with WOOL
EN- fringe Of bright magenta color In the
country the women wear a heavy apron
of carpet material heavily frn&ed and
are seldom seen without a distaR in their
hands as they ride or walk TO market
Those from Canalle are noted for their
charming costumes of embroidered linen
and they with their men folk were the
only people We saw in the Balkans with
adequate head covering. the wide. stiff
futed handkerchiefs of the women and
the straw hats of the men protecting them
from the sun. In summer the heat and
glare in these shadeless lands are intense
but a handkerchief or stiff brimless cap
seems the fashion. while for dress occa-
sions both sexes will pile one home