davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22

rowly escaped being a mushroom, as 1t
Is depressed like a flower petal all around.
rolling slightly at the left side, near the
front. The square crown is entirely con-
cealed by the thickly growing leaves of
the arbutus, among which a dark green
ribbon wanders modestly, thus concealing
Its Joining with the brim, and on top
of the crown above the brow is massed
cluster Of pink roses imbedded in hy-
drangea blooms. The hat Is upraised at
the left side on a net-covered bandeau.
The same shape is developed in a wire
covered lace, the brim being wholly of
italian or Irish lace, its edging forming
the frilly outer finish.
The touch of black, which is rarely lack
ing In any gown or hat turned out by
French artist, is seen in the lace and
net covered hats, trimmed chiefly with
big, outspreading bows of the same
ilmy fabric, the crown being banded
closely with slightly twisted biased folds
of black velvet a scheme of trimming
which Is especially effective where the
hat would otherwlse have been entirely
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22

provided with substantial soles which
do not, however, project rather narrowly
pointed toes, long vamps and the COM
posite military Cuban heel. Their prin-
clpal feature is the big corded silk rib
bon bow running through two large eye
lets and spreading far over the instep and
vamp, thus reducing the apparent length
OF the foot. They come chiefly In the
softer kids and are all In one color like
the more practical pumps.
The mannish Oxfords which some wo-
men affect for walking purposes have
the common sense attributes of the foot
gear provided for the sensible stronger
sex, popularity supposed to be superior
to tonsorial vanities. are to be found
chiefly In black and the various shades
of brown and tan glosse kid and pebble
goat, although occasionally there are seen
precise duplicates of the masculine type
of patent kid oxford with light cloth
uppers which not only render the foot
conspicuous. but make it seem larger than
1t need.
Cloth-topped Oxfords are undeniably
more comfortable than are those of kid or
leather during the first warm spring days
when the feet are recovering from the
dire effects of over-shoes and are apt
to be either swollen or tender. But for
wet days, a th-topped shoe should be
discarded in favor OF one entirely of pelt,
as the cloth retains the moisture, and If
any dust has been allowed TO accumulate
in the fabric the top is certain to be
hopelessly discolored.
For pretty, slender feminine feet. there
is no type OF shoe more becoming thnn
the Colonial with its long,tongued vamp
and big buckle. They come In pebble,
glosse and patent kid. and may quite
properly be worn on the street, although
they look equally well with house
dress.
Doeskin boots have been found so COM
Portable by those who adopted them last
winter that 1t Is small wonder that the
demand for them In low-cut shoes has
been large. They are usually on the laced
and bowed Gibson model and are prefer
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22

of white. Many all-black hats will be
worn with colored gowns intended for
ceremonious occasions, one chiefly of
plumes, for instance. is vastly more eff
fectiye than a hat of matching tone
which would not he becoming quite close
to = hair, from which the gown is. OF
course, separated by the omnipresent
white lace yoke and stock, or the feather
and lace neck scarf, without which no
street costume is quite complete.
Frills of lace are made up into fluffy
rosettes and wreath ruchlngs solely for
hat trimmings. as In the case Of a hat
known to the young women who most
favor 1t as the "Susanne." Its shape is
eminently suited to the rounded facial
outlines of youth, as the straight un-
lined rough straw brim is Just a bit
severe and of equal width, slightly up
turned at back and front and set well
back via black velvet bandeau fitting
closely to the crown of the head The
proportions of the wide crown of me-
dium height are concealed by the
plated valenciennes lace ruching. which
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22

and that pale blue or pink or light brown
simply swear at light violet, which is
also impossible with any save the darkest
of green. AS helotrope Is so much the
vogue as a dress accessory rather than
for an entire costume, and quite as many
violets as roses are seen upon hats, 1t
Is well to have a sufficiency of dark To-
liage between the vividly colored flower
and the hat brim which is of any de-
cided shade of brown, green, blue or red.
black or white hat, trimmed with
roses or violets, would accord with
costume of any color, with most shades
of brown may be worn blues or greens,
pale pink and light blue with certain
greens and with dark blues and deep
reds, and almost any shade of rose with
dull yellows, greens and burnt browns,
while the fashionable gray, best known
as London smoke, will stand almost
any combination ranging from black to
white.
One of the daintiest of the flower
crowned hats recently seen is chrlstened
"Clarlce." Its moderately wide brm mar
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22

In Madrid, Barcelona and other large
cities shopping is a favorite past,ne. but
in the provinces 1t is usual to send the
servant to ask the shopkeeper to send
some goods for inspection at home
Choice is then a leisurely proceeding,
friends often being present, who share
in the pleasure of handling and compar.
ing pretty ribbons and silks.
Calling in Spain bristles with ceremony.
When a first visit is paid the hostess
says at parting: Your honor has taken
possession or your house, for all | have
is yours"
If anything during the call is admired,
the remark follows at once 1T is at your
disposal" The answer to which must
be: Il hope my hostess will enjoy it for
many years"
When means allow of it, a woman has
her box at the theater. In this the
scene between the acts often resembles
an at home, while at the end of the
play visiting is carried on for an hour
or more while the audience is nominally
awaiting carriages.
Girls for the most part are educated In
the converts, and if the curriculum In
these is not of the kind that wins
scholarships it is at least one which
makes women good judges of music,
painting, the drama, of poetry, and the
antique in regard to laces. embroideries
and tapestries.
Spain. for all that some adJudge It TO
be a nation opposed TO progress, takes
a first place in art. and when a country
does this it is proof that its women have
a standard and are provided with an
education which develops all our finer In
stincts.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22
se-@SS[@
A Teothe1 @
erection BY Henri 8endel
The English Walking Hat Ostrich
Plumes and Brilliant Feather Trim
mings Flower Hats for Spring
The "Susanne and the
Frenchy "BabeAe.
Frenchy "BabeAe.

velvet and satin facing, the shapes are
best developed in chip. They are trim
med with as many ostrich plumes as the
wearer Of the hat may chance to possess
or have means to acquire. In default of
plumes, the cog feathers make an exceed
ingly good substitute-in fact, are more
commendable for general going about, as
they will Withstand dampness. These
cavalier shapes are worn alike by the
well-preseryed middle-aged matron and
the young girl just budding into woman
hood, and it is quite likely that they will
be one Of the popular hats Of the ensuing
summer as they are becoming to both the
oval and the round type of face.
Just as a wondrous floral millinery dis
play has convinced the observer that ex-
otlcs and wild flowers of every hue and
family are to be used to the exclusion
of all other trimmings, a sudden defiance
of the Audubon Society is manifested by
an array of hats loaded with feathers.
1t is sometimes difficult to recognize such
familiar domestic fowl as the duck, tur-
key and hen in their dyed plumage, for
who has ever seen a live hen with pink
wings, duck with violet breast or a
turkey with a sapphire blue tail? In
addition to these domestic feathers, mill
liners have dispatched emissaries to the
antipodes for birds of naturally brilliant
plumage and unpronouncable names, such
as the Guacamaya, or South American
parrot, which furnishes marvelously
Taricolored breast and wings and revers
lble quilts Of dull blue and red. These,
like the other fancy feathers, are used
principally upon the heavier and darker
straws.
Flower hats, however, will be promi-
nent among the daintiest of those worn
during the early spring. for they are
typical of the Easter production, which
Is still a venerated detail OF feminine
garb, despite the gibes of the newspapers
and the masculine finger OF scorn. The
Easter headgear of 1908 will be of a
fragile order, but not necessarily liable to
induce pneumonia should that feast day
prove blustery. In most Instances the
crowns are silk lined, as well as thor
oughly covered, by the substantial mil
linery foliage of the rose, the arbutus.
the laurel and the hydrangea In plan
ming a flower hat 1t is well for the ANA
teur to remember that while all colors
accord in a flower garden the contracted
limits of hat crown counsel discretion.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22

To women OF the long-featured type Of
beauty, the English walking hat has even
been considered eminently becoming, and
that the long ostracised shape is again TO
be worn will be welcome news TO many
who have vainly endeavored to adapt them
selves to the various freakish kinds of
headgear in vogue for the past few years
The English walking hat in its revived
form is large and almost boat-shaped, for
the widely curved side brims of equal size
turn upward almost TO the apex of the
high crown, while the projecting ends are
square and closely follow the outline of
the head. For walking and travelling pur-
poses such hats are best developed in
rough straw, their crowns banded with
twisted velvet or taffeta ribbon, supple
mented by outstanding short wings or cog
plumes and perhaps frightened with two
huge headed fancy pins or with one of
those ornamental buckles which never
wholly go out of favor. They are also used
IN the fine chips and Milanese braids, and
even in that most attractive of the sea-
sons military novelties the moss straws.
These latter are at their best when
wreathed with flowers, although amongst
the exceptionally smart walking hats is
design of black moss straw banded with
black velvet ribbon and trimmed at the
left side with a fluffy cluster of black
ostrich tips.
Ostrich plumes and tips are never seen
in the rear of fashions march, for, when
all is said In praise of novelty trimmings
there is nothing quite equal TO ostrich
grace and elegance. Single long plumes,
clusters of short ones and wreaths of tiny
tips appear on many of Il finer chips
and leghorns, whether of the moderately
sized shapes accompanying afternoon
street costumes of those picture replicas
which not infrequently suggest the mush-
room brim, although with curtailed pro-
portions Some of these shapes are decor
ated solely with ostrich wreaths, which
entirely conceal the crown, while other
crowns have one side plainly banded and
all the trimming piled upon the other.
Cavalier hats suggestive of those made
familiar TO use via the pictures in novels
dealing with swashbuckling heroes have
been adapted to the feminine face with
charming results, and at the same time
are practical, and their wide brim shading
the brow, rolls boldly from the left back,
tapering gradually toward the front. As
such brms do not admit of the becoming
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22
The Hat and the
Couture.
Variation of the English Walking
Hat.

Variation of the English Walking
Hat.
Stunning street hat, developed in the
novelty moss straw and shaped decidedly
on the lines of the once popular English
walking type, with wide, curved side
brims upturned against a high-peaked
crown, the front and back ends of the
hat being almost square and fitting close
ly to the head. The crown Is draped
about its base with rolled biased black
velvet, with the left brim looped against
a cluster of fluffy gunmetal ostrich plumes
and fastened with large gunmetal
buckle. The hair is waved over wire
roll at the front, back and sides, and the
crown Is dressed with loosely rolled puffs
and curls. Gunmetal tailored cloth coat,
with black velvet collar and vest en-
broidered with gunmetal soutache and
worn over white lace waist, appliqued
with white silk.
New Cavalier Picture Hat.
young girls hat of fine white chip.
with wide brim dipping at left side and
rolling broadly at back, tapertng rgradu-
ally toward right of front The medium
high crown is trimmed with dark brown
velvet ribbon, with long wide loops at
left side and on right side covered with
clusters of white and brown cog plumes
of various lengths, the shorter ones at
the front and sides and the longer fall
ing over the crown and the brm. The
hair is parted in the center and slightly
waved over small roll at sides and back.
the crown dressed with coronet braid.
The "CIarice."
A medium sized italian lace hat built
over a wire frame. The depressed brim,
slightly curving from left to front cen
ter, Is covered inside and out with the
white lace, the edges coming together TO
form the outer frll of brim. The square
crown is banded with rose-colored velvet
ribbon and entirely covered with trail
ing arbutus leaves and blossoms. At the
left front a large cluster of pale pink
roses is imbedded in white hydrangeas.
The hair is pompadoured at front and
sides and slightly curling 'oyer brow.
Black chiffon jumper. trimmed with ap-
plioued black net, worn over white Ital-
Ian lace blouse.
The "susanne."
Exceedingly smart hat of rough, nat
ural colored straw, with medium wide,
straight, unlined brim, slightly curving
upward at front and back. The square
crown is wreathed with close ruching of
accordion plated white valenciennes lace,
joining at the left side with cluster Of
white roses and white violets with their
foliage, which extend toward the back OF
the hat, where they terminate against the
crown with small cluster Of white yio-
let's. Greek coiffure, knotted beneath the
hat crown.
The "Babette."
A rough black straw hat, somewhat on
poke bonnet lines, the narrow brim Is
slightly peaked at front and back and
dropping at sides; Its edge piped with
narrow roll of porcelain blue satin. The
peaked crown is draped with blue satin
and surrounded with quadruple ruching of
lace-edged accordion plated white chiffon.
with a flower plume of tiny pale pink
rosebuds at left side the pale green stems
showing at base and the smaller buds
falling over crown top. Couture arranged
low over brow and broad at sides OF
head, the crown dressed with innumerable
loosely rolled curls.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22
Spanish Women in Their Homes

Lack of winter comfort can he borne
with composure by Spanish women, who.
for few weeks at most, are cut OF
from their sunny balconies and verandas.
Servant worries in Spain are reduced
to minimum, not because the domestic
class is an ideal one, but for the reason
that nothing very exalted is expected of
IT. Servants are taken less seriously, and
allowed fuller play of those impulses nat
ural TO their youth and class.
Spanish servants sing over their work
as a matter Of course. As they wash in
the courtyard, they talk freely oyer the
wall with neighboring maids of the tub,
their mistresses' proximity on the bal
cony being no hndrance to outbursts of
merriment.
AS regards their wardrobes generally,
Spanish women, unless their means are
good, do not concern themselves with the
latest styles.
really good black silk, which can be
worn at church and on occasions of cere-
mony, satisfies mothers and daughters
when incomes are small. Even as a
bride, in a country town, a girl will
wear black silk for the religious cere-
mony, a white veil and wreath being
the only relief.
1t is at marriage ceremony that one
realizes the highly emotional temperament
of Spanish women. They all, relatives
and friends alike weep copiously through
out and choke with sobs when the bride
at the end Of the service greets each with
streaming eyes.
The restrictions that are placed on the
betrothed in Spain are in themselves pro-
ductiVe OF many a cavalier act The
chaperon takes her charge to the cathe-
dra door on a fiesta" but this does not
prevent the lover from some dark recess
stepping forth and spreading his cloak
for the fair one to step on.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22
I IOOC
on 5o~i1or. Lines

completely encircles 1t, joining at the
left side beneath a cluster of roses end
violets dscreetly separated by foliage set
close to the lower edge of the crown and
mingling with the ruching as they trail
backward, terminating in a large bunch
of leaf-embedded violets.
"Babette," another girlish hat, is Frenchy
and coquettish and sets perkily upon the
crown of the head. The brim is just
sufficiently peaked over the brow to
vaguely suggest the pike, and dips again
at the sides to repeat the peaking process
at the back, but there are no strings to
conceal the contour of the face. Instead
of being lined, the brim edge Is piped
with satin to match the alpine shaped
crown swathed with soft folds, against
which is set a frill of four accordion
plated chiffon, lace-edged ruf1es, and
piled against the left side Of the crown
is mass of roses. violets, llacs or what
ever Hover may catch the wearer's fancy.
February holds the record as the month
In which the largest number of children
are born June is that In which there are
the fewest births.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22

able In metal or tan, as black and brown
and blue are easily discolored. Doeskin
pumps and coonials frequently have
wooden heels, kid-covered, which are not
desirable for general walking purposes,
as the feet soon become fatigued, espe-
cialIy In a town where the hard, unyield-
ing heels strike upon payements equally
inflexlble.
Women with weak ankles and a ten
dency to fat or broken down insteps
olld best eschew low-cut walking shoes
at all seasons of the year in favor OF
the half-hgh boots, which are made on
the same lasts as are the Gibson, blucher
and pump styles, but provided with light
weight kid tops reaching a trihe above
the ankle.
Stockings. of course, Invariably match
the color Of the accompanying shoe or
pump, and that they may not soon fade
should be of spunsllk or Isle, hich will
outwear a dozen of the cheaper grades
OF hosiery. For early spring silk will
be found advisable for use with low-cut
shoes of all kinds, as even the thinner
weaves are Infinitely warmer than Isle,
which In a northern climate should be
tSS'iNeu Ptinclphily Ior miusumner Gum
fort. Most stockings of the finer grade
show more or less instep and ankle EN-
broidery. The black ones being embroid-
cred In Dresdenlike flowers or In tiny
polka dots in the porcelain blue shades,
the dark blues are embroidered with small
rosebuds and forget -me-nots, and the tans
and gunmetals with white or black
For use with the black. blue. dark
green and gunmetal Gibson ties, which
demand n rather more elaborate style OF
hosiery than do those of pebble goat, are
Isle and silk stockings of similar shades,
embroidered heavily with wreaths of tiny
flowers In natural colors with their foli-
age, but always so arranged as to give
the long lines about the ankle. which
lends thes slender effect. for no matter
what may be the weight OF her dimples,
no woman is expected to display a thick
ankle.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22
Gum l1etaI Kid
With 5tockin6o
To natch

moderate height, and the narrow biased
leather strap which outlines the uppers
terminates at the instep base with
small two-looped leather bow The best,
meaning the most practical, walking
pumps. are of pebble kid In black al
though the woman who prefers to have
her shoes match her gown usually selects
pumps of brown, dark blue or gun metal
as the case may be.
Gibson ties on the blucher order which
are far and away the more comfortable
for women afflicted with high insteps are
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22
Novelty Embroidered
5tockln3o otnd Ratent
Leoyther Pumps

"a OWHERE in the world are shapely
~ feet more comfortably and daintily
] 4 shod than in America, and since the
adopted for general street wear, women
are more than ever giving attention to
the appearance OF their feet and ankles
and expending upon their protection and
adornment sums of money which a few
years ago would have seemed absurdly
eXtrayagant.
Most practical among the low shoes
to be worn for general going about
during the ensuing spring and summer
are the pumps which, having won a
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22

reputation for decreasing the apparent
size of the feet, have remained in favor
from season 10 season for the past fve
years, with but slight changes in their
general lines. The newest ones have
toes slightly more pointed than were
those OF last year, but to offset this the
width across the bali of the foot has
slightly increased, promising additional
comfort where. in warm weather. at
least 1t is most generally appreciated.
Ihe soles are beveled and slightly pro-
Jecting, the heels cross between the
military and Cuban models. and OF
Los Angeles herald., 1908-03-22

A woman's voice can be heard In a
balloon at a height of two miles, while
mans voice cannot be heard at n
greater distance than one mile.
Mexico weekly ledger., 1908-04-30

half years 1t has not become known.
Statute Of Limitation in Bribery Cases
l said / would recommend that the
statute of limitation in bribery cases
be fixed at five years. the statutory pc
riod of three years being too short, as
transactions of that kind do not us
ually conn to light until long after the
offense is committed. In accordance
with this recommendation the general
assembly Of 1905 enacted a statute
making the statute of limitation in
bribery cases FIVE years.
Elections and Police.
Four years ago the people Of the
state, especially of the cities, were
aroused over the subject of elections
It was claimed that the personal lib.
erty of men In casting their votes as
they pleased and having them counted
as cast, was in many instances taken
away. In a free country there can be
nothing more sacred than the ballot
and the greatest political crime that
can be committed is to take it away
from a citizen unjustly. On this sub
ject / said in that campaign:
II propose to put an end to that
Indian business in st. Louis and
Kansas City. Every democrat,
whether he be for the machine or
against the machine; every repub.
lican, every populist. every social
list. every man or every party and
of no party. shall have the right
to go to the polls and. vote Just as
he pleases, without interference,
and without being slugged by a
lot of rufians. want to make
the ballot in Missouri honest and
free; l want political liberty to
reign supreme in this state, and
to that end the police shall be
taken out of politics, and politi-
clans will not be allowed 20 e
blue coats and brass buttons"
That promise has been kept to tn
letter. There have been four election
in each of the three large cities OF tn
| state during this administration with
out the least complaint of. fraud o
undue influence, or the faintest susp
cion as to the honesty or fairness Q
the election. Every man has been az
! corded the right to vote and to hay
Mexico weekly ledger., 1908-04-30

hottsr reads already has been made,
and that the ntar future promises a
development along these lines certain
to add enormously to property values,
and to make Missouri the envy of her
sister states. ! believe we are now
on thesway to secure splendid high
ways from one end Of the common
wealth to the other. Plans have been
matured for the construction OF a state
highway from st. Louis to Kansas
City, and the state highway engineer
Is now engaged in working out this
idea. 1t will, of course, take time %
perfect the system, but we have now
made a good start.
Labor and Capital.
Investments of capital in the state
have been encouraged and the opportu-
mites for labor enlarged. Both have
been treated fairly, and the rights OF
both have been protected. There have
been disputes which have been set.
tied, some by the state board of arbi.
tration, others by amicable agree
ment. There have been no disastrous
strikes, and no disturbances arising
out OF, conflict between the interests
of capital and labor. Missouri has
been more free from violence Of this
kind during the past three and a hall
years than any other state In the
Union. In fact, there has been non