The San Francisco call., 1908-09-20

In putting the waist on to be fitted turn the under
arm seams towards the front then pin together in the
front, and fasten belt securely around the waist
the shirt waist arrange carefully In position
Place the under they slant slightly
toward the back at the line let the fullness
In the back como in small space at tho waist line
(about two-inch spaced and then arrange the front
fuliness 1t is then time to II the neck and
armhole lines are perfect II they are not mark or
pin for the needed alterations and after making them
try again.
Remember 1t is a fatal mistake to cut a waist ou,
too much either at the neck in tho armhole The
neck line should be high possible, In appear
should go straight around and mover dip down at
all in the front back at the shoulder II in
doubt to where the neck line belongs. fasten a
tape measure close around the neck pushing 1t low
down as It Will easily and still straight around
the bottom Of the measure should give the neck
nne' = 4
In the armhole good ntting pattern rarely will
need altering the either. II the basting
thread which marks the line where the sleeve sews
in comes where 1t should This should close un-
der the arm. aad in place should 1t down or
out noticeably Fifteen inches is the usual size
medium sized arnhole. If It q little high or
tight under the little TO the front
II carefully at this point This Is often all
necessary. II 1t needs than this snip the ma
terial in around this part eighth quarter an
beyond basting thread In several places and
stretch gently again Run basting line half
inch from the shipped place and try again
The shoulder seams are stitched the seams turned
towards the back, the yoke turned In
the seams and stitched to match the lower edge OF
the yoke across the back. The under arm seams are
stitched then felled seam threeeighth of an inoh
wide when finished, Is made ~..3s
The neck line should measure one and one-half
inches more than the neck shirt waists
consequently that is the measure-hnished-of the
neck band. After the band together the
wrong side from one extreme end other, pin
the middle (havng the the wrong side)
Of the band to the middle of tho waist at the
neck then pin 1t at each end to the of the neck
in the front Basic. stitch. then turn the seam up
towards the band, and baste the of the band
the and down by hand stitch the
upper edge OF the band having right uppermost
close to the edge. This keeps seam nat In aun-
dering and makes neat finish.
These tailored waists with rather small
plain sleeves put into link When the sleeves
small the opening at the curves exactly on
the fold of the sleeve back When they are
large this opening Is made inch Of the fold
toward the under side. The depth of cuff is two
two and inches and the length around (for
the medium sizes) nine and one-half or ten inches
The length OF the opening-when fnished-should
one-half the length OF the cuff
This allows the cuff to lie out straight and so be
ironed we'll The under side of the opening may have
narrow hem extension hem-or false hem It
is sometimes called-one- half inch wide finished The
extension hem IL turned In and across the
top and is not sewed into the the upper side
of the opening shaped piece is sewed, and when
attached to the sleeve should match perfectly Cuffs
have thickness of butchers linen put for In
thnnest tailors may be put The cufrs are
made on the same order the neck band The
stitching must be perfect and whether the corners