The San Francisco call., 1908-10-25

axis. Oct. S.-This is the season of
laying visits 10 ones friends in the
Couhlry The Parisienne returns from
-, seaside Tor the mountains. where
mas passed the summer. and re-
mans IN Paris just long enough TO
pay Tying visitsto her dress maker.
- nave peep at the probable winter
-0siiiohs' pack her trunk with autumn
lnery and away she goes for a series
OF VISITS among her friends who are
LOT tuaate enough TO possess a chateau.
ash9ere, in all its varieties, is de-
S.oeaiyS the favorite material for
dresses. Cloth is entirely out Of
eor tallor made gowns cashmere is par
tleularly favored, being very light in
weight and fine in finish.
M1ch crystaliZed net Gf one may be
permitted 10 coin such an expression
and bespangled and embroidered nets
ana chitons are shown for evening
wear
Now is the time TO use. your chantilly
and other lace shawls. They drape
beautifully As tunics, OF course, with
out cutting 4 recently saw q very
lovely evening gown of pale rose col
oreo satin. which had a white chantilly
lace shawl used as a tunic. trimmed
with very deep rose colOred silk fringe.
tiOunces not long enough 10 be used
as gowns, make lovely scarfs, no mat
Ter how much worn to throw around
the shoulders FOR evening wear Line
them with chiffon and edge and out
line the designs with tiny rucks of the
same material. Black chifson gives a
stunning effect, bringing ont the de-
sign Of the lace beautifully.
EJ CkLES USED WITH BELTS
An afternoon costume seen lately at
leading dress makers establish
ment, was Of plain and check brown
material, with double directoire revers
IN nut brown velvet and sharp revers
20 The tight fitting sleeves. A black
stock and collar gave tone TO this orig
lnal creation. A very wide band OF
martin fur had a big bow of the velvet
as hnish. A large brown velvet hat
with aigrettes was shown. TO be worn
with this costume.
Exquisite and artistic are the new
belt buckles used alike as plain or
1raped belts. Their return to favor is
most welcome after a season of sashes,
which. toward the close. came to be
worn indiscriminately They always, TO
me, took away the trim look of tailored
gowns The new buckles are works
OF art. and are made of silver, enamel
or gilt They are often studded with
Jewels, amethysts having the prefer
ence, and are larger in shape than
formerly. They are invariably worn
at the back. and come in a diversity of
styles, 10 suit all tastes.
Hats. so far show little or no trim
ming around the crown. attractive and
ornamental hatpins, which have con-
tnued TO increase in price and in ele-
gance. being much seen. One or two
are no longer sufficient TO hold the
present very large hats in place four
~ i've are the regulation number and
they form part OF the trimming. They
are ornamented with coral surrounded
by brilliants: large barogue pearls
ornamented with gold, beautiful
enamel designs and the most artistic
effects carved in horn. I saw a par
tieularly pretty one recently. made Of
~ u, in the form of three large but
iariies. which were wonderfully real
stic. the wings and eyes being Of
jewels. Another design was Of large
ivy leaves in relief. overlapping and
wrought together. Many flowers are
shown. carved most delicately in ivory,
with their petals many times tinged
with color.
I'all models show many large velvet
turbans and velvet hats, and fur is be-
ginning to be used yet, as with dresses,
the STYLES for winter remain very un-
settled. Much ottoman silk is used. It's
revival is one Of the novelties OF the
season. Beaver promises to be the
popular wear for winter.
Dahlias are the popular flower of the
hour. and have quite replaced roses as
hat trimming. The yare much worn
as bout0nnieres IN some shade which
contrasts with the costume.
Queen Eugene Of Spain. while pass
ing through Paris last week. wore a
most becoming white soft felt hat Of
medium size, turned UP jauntily at one
side and held in place by a large white
owl. whose eyes We're OF topaz.
The birds and feathers used on
autumn millinery are Of quite unusual
size.
Tulle rushes are again in style. fast
ened at the side with taffeta flower,
which flowers promise 10 have a de-
cided vogue.
THE TOY BUSINESS