The Salt Lake tribune. [volume] (Salt Lake City, Utah) 1890-current, 1908-10-16

defined folds and fastened at the side
front underneath bow formed by two
loops, each four inches long, gathered
In the center into two plaits and COW
cred with the knot. A quarter yard of
web silk with the edges turned, makes
an artistic combination sash and drap-
cry; four yards of length are required.
1t is wound snugly around at the EN-
pire line and fastened invisibly at the
centre back, Then the two ends. one
trifie longer than the other, arc drawn
around to the left side. aud Just below
The hip both ends are drawn through Il
buckle, Tassels make an attractive
finish for the ends, or the silk may be
fringed and knoted.
More of novelty than any of these
is that model IN which shaped piece,
usually of embroidery, is set between
the waist and skirt This piece is never
In the form of a regular belt, but is,
perhaps, curved SO that it literally
forms two scallops, with the front and
back centres mere points, and from
them there usually bangles an ornament
of some sort. Now that the little vests
are so popular, they serve to conceal
the joining of waist and skirt, and, Of
course. there is the draped waist where
the folds conceal naturally the meeting
of the two parts. Although 1t is but
a short time since the one piece gowns
with waist and skirt joined at the waist
insertion or tucking were i'll high favor,
they seem quite antiquated now that so
many more intricate methods have ap-
peared. Where the separate waist is
worn. the skirt is extended to il III tabs,
bands or some other way so cleverly
that the costume appears not to he
waist and skirt at all. For example, in
one model in which the skirt has wide
front panel and two side cores, the side
back is extended at the top in a girdle
crosses the one side over the other in
surplice fashion, the two ends drawn
through q small buckle which hooks to
the bodice, while another model which
has been reproduced in many beautiful
materials has bib front finished
simply with machine stitching. and at
each corner on the under side is a small
hook which catches into an eyelet of
the waist. Both separate waists and
expansive yokes and guimpes are fire.
quently made Of elegant and snowy ma
terials. Chief among these are irides-
cent and jetted net metal cloths, and
nets and laces beautifully wrought in
dazzling colors. All of these, whether
waist or yoke, reflect the color of the
skin, and are never widely contrasting
Ecru net IS used great deal, as it al.
ways has been, but almost invariably
it is embroidered OF trimmed in some
manner with color that matches or
harmonizes perfectly with that skirt,
One Of the haudsomest evening gowns
seen this season is Of canary silk super
imposed on mauve chiffon. That com
blnatiop constitutes the main color
scheme. The frock is finished with
sleeves and a chemisette of tulle and
silver embroidery. Additional beauty
is impaired TO the whole by Insertions
of yellow lace at the sides of the skirt
that emphasize the tunic. The design
is made complete By waistband OF
embroidered gold. Almost as beautiful
sable. This is return to the once
widespread vogue enjoyed by fur trim
ming for autumn gowns, One Of the
new features noted in connection with
the season s designs .s the collarless
chemisette, welcome relief after the
summer s tall throat bands. The Danish
ment of the high collar is said to be
due chiefly 10 the beauty specialists.
who have told their patients it is i'm.
possible for a woman long TO have a
lovely neck if she hedges it so alti-
tudlnously,
Dyed laces and nets prevail to an un.
precedented extent. In fact il is the
exception that costume has not some
dyed lace about IT, no matter what the
other combination may be. Next in
popularity are the silk guimpes, which
arc SO old that they arc innovations,
and re entering az they have at this
time, they seem q particularly happy
medium between the cloth itself, which
IS altogether too heavy for comfort in