The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1908-10-09
Journal of Canoe Voyage Along the
Kauai Pals, Made in 1916

By Hon. G.. D. Gilman.

! or the pan we came 10 q little Dd.
making in between two arms or point
of land, on the shore of which we no
ticed several canoes, and few miser
able huts. As the morning was wei
advanced, I consented that the meI
should land to refresh themselves will
rest and food, and while they were do
ing this I strolled around to see the
place. 1t would answer well for place
of detention, for there is no visible
way of ingress or egress except by
water, and yet there is way for those
who have sufficient nerve to brave the
danger. As we came along, l had no
ticed a sort of ladder placed against
the face of the cliff, for the purpose
of reaching the heights above. A ma,
tive presented himself as a guide, and
I let him lead the way Starting off, |
had no doubt that | was going to as.
cend the ladder at once, but [ had tax
en- but few steps before 1 found my
self hating and accommodating. The
way which had appeared so easy, now
showed itself full of danger. The path
has been excavated by the natives with
their rude tools. from the face of an
overhanging cliff. It is not a level, but
is formed like a gouge turned edgewise,
so that one IS hold is very precarious
1t is also too low to admit of any other
than a STOPPING posture, and I was OBJ
liged to shuttle along with the utmost
caution. My guide seemed quite at
home, as he stood upright outside of
me, with his body projecting beyond
the surface of the cliff, and encouraged
me on. I had taken off my shoes, and
by degrees had worked myself two
thirds past, when I rested for a survey.
There | was, my chief support little
projecting stone, not sufficient to afford
hold for my whole foot, and my hands
clinging with a death grasp to the rock,
and in this situation oyerhanging
gulf, that was fQaming and boiling,
as the surf broke over the rocks some
sixty or seventy feet below me, and
which would have proved my death
place, if 1 had made the least mistake
or slip. I had strong curiosity to go
forward, but discretion prevailed, ana
1 returned. I was then told that few
white men had gone as far as I had,
and that none had ever passed up the
ladder, Taking a less dangerous stand
point, | took occasion to examine the
ladder 1t is made of trunks of two
cocoanut trees, one of which stands
against the cliff, and the other out from
it, like planting the side of ladder
against house. The outer stick is
well secured with ropes, and is the only
means of communication between above
and below. The natives pass up by it, |
even with a-f6ad, as unconcerned as if |
passing by the best bridge It is sur !
prising to see even the children pass
it free and unconcerned, as if on level |
ground. I can only wonder that there
is not an accident every day.
few rods back from the beach rise |
the cliffs. in some places perpendicular
for 500 feet, forming an amphitheater.
Along the base on one side are ranged
the houses, which form striking con-
trast with the black mass of rock ris-t
ing behind them All their food comes
from above, where it is said there is
fine valley, (Nualolo), which the feet
of white men have never profaned
Here, shut out from all intruders, they
live in peace and happiness, such as it
s--pleasure today-borrow no thought
for tomorrow.
When His Majesty passes around the
island, he stops here for a part or the
whole of the night, to see an exhibition
of fire works, got up for his entertain
nent, 1t consists in throwing light
poles, which have been set on fire, from
sea. IF skillfully thrown, they will go
q long distance, making pretty show.
The natives sometimes take a large
bird, and set it off with some burning
substance attached to it.
Al ~. = 7
for canoes passing between Waimea
and Hanalei, as well as for those that
60 over to the island of Niihau, which
can be seen here at distance of about |
twenty five miles.
Having spent about an hour at this /
place, we again took our seats in the |
canoe, and continued our voyage to-
wards Waimea. Our company was now
increased to four canoes, ours being the .
largest, and there was something of 1
contest as to which should lead, but L
believe that when so inclined, we could |
distance the Others. The three other !
canoes were bound for Niihau. One of
them was quite small, containing only |
three persons, a man and two women,
who handled their paddles like profess
sional rowers. The top of the canoe |
was covered with mats firmly secured,
with openings left just large enough
to admit their bodies, but at best it
was a slight affair to stand the rough
seas in the channel.
AS we were passing by very high
bank, / noticed the figure of native
sketched upon it. This was very dis
tinct, its limbs, its brown skin and
white cloth wrapped around its loins,
and reminded me of rocks found at
home, which had been marked by the
Indians. l was quite surprised when
a shrill whistle and reckoning move
ment of one arm dispeIled the illusion.
It was a young native who was stand
ing against the face of the rock, watch
ing US.
After padding FIVE or SIX hours, in
GLIDING stops, we passed the further
extremity of the Pals in safety, and
the whole appearance of the land i'm
changed-from lofty and fan.
tastic peaks and preeipices to a barren,
sand beach, on which we
tried to land for water, but found the
surf too heavy. The canoemen had
shirked their work and we were much
tho +iDoa for he |