The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-03-23

D hippant, Many Of them paused a long
time before the mortal remains Of one
Of the greatest men In history. You felt
a II you we're really at q shrine.
MO OF NrERtsr,
Then the explorers visited other churches
which took one back TO the Middle Ages.
There was the Franciscan convent snd
church. There was the church where
the remains Of Santa Rosa, the only Ameri-
can woman saint, rest. Then there we're
numerous other edihoes with old doors
and heavy bolts and locks, and inside some
Of them we're decorated with what seemed
TO be solid sheets Of gold shout their pillars;
churches where there were beautiful old
paintings OF religious subjects, churches
whore the hling wss brought from Europe
and ls now almost priceless In value,
churches where there were historic parch-
ments.
The visitors then went to see the Senate
Chamber, with It's carved ceiling, n Of
the wonders Of the world in that line,
brought from Europe and paid for with
Inca treasure in 1880. ThPt room was used
in the Days Of the Inquisition, which lasted
longer In Peru than in Spain and WIS
almost as terrible. In fact In this viceregal
city, the second founded In the Americas
by the Spanish, one could see religious
emblems at every turn. just outside the
city on a hill overlooking the b~ullring
il an enormous cross, probably fifty feet
high. Every year the society that had II
erected makes a pilgrimage up that hill
after a parade In the city and holds services,
wherein VOWS TO uphold the faith and lead
lives OF purity and honor are retaken.
On n dozen other hills croesea and shrines
may be seen.
II IL evident that Peru as a nation IL
still devout, but II one could have seen
the crowd at the San Pedro Church on
Sunday morning when the doors were
opened and the beauty and high blood Of
Lima came out from their devotions he
would have been convinced that Peru
is really no exception to other Latin Amer
loan countries, and indeed most other
countries, in that the women are the main
stay Of the church. That beauty parade is
one Of the sights Of Lima. and the Amer
leans, Officers and men, were there, side
by aide with the men Of the city to see the
show,
HEADoEAR OF The WOMEN.
Az the visitors went about, one change.
national 10 character, impressed itself
upon them Immediately. Every writer on
Peru has commented on the fact that the
headdress Of the women, worn universally
il the black manta. II is said that it is a
relic that has come down from the Incas
when they put on mourning for their great
chief Atahualpa. Rich and poor have worn
that headdress on the street for centuries.
II was an established institution.
Well. il 10 going. About one-half Of the
women. some Of them in good circumstances
evidently, wore mantas on the streets,
but as for the rest well, q man has no
business to write about women's hats.
All that this man can say is thst h never
saw more dazzling specimens Of flower
gardens than those bobbing around over
the graceful drarery with which the Peru
Wan women adorn themselves,
Thus does fashion war successfully upon
established custom. The Peruvian woman
loves a beautiful hat just rs much as any
other woman on earth, Moreover, what is
said about her SURF assing beauty is true.
Given great beauty and the love Of a hat
on the part Of a womRn-what chance has
e black manta got? The manta has got TO
20 and is going. Truly this is a world OF
change and there are those who will say
it is one OF decay. but let nc one breathe
that In a fashionable millinery shop in Lima.
Then cam more sightseeing, All the
clubs Of the city were thrown open. All
the postal card shops had extra supplies.
English Spoken Here was posted on
the windows and doors Of scores Of shops.
One sign that was amusing to the Amer
leans read:
AMERICAN Spoken HERR,
Buy SEwING MACHINE
wAsHINGroN's BIRTHDAY DINNER.
The first formal entertainment came on
the night Of Washington's Birthday. when
the officers Of the. feet were the guests Of
the republic and the President at dinner.
The banquet was given At the exposition
grounds. a park where sundry exhibits OF
great worth from the standpoint OF history,
natural history. commerce, education and
the like. are preserved. The dinner was in
the grand hall Of the main building The
decorations we're almost exclusively Of the
colors Of Peru. red and white. On the stage
an immense orchestra was massed and the
American colors were used there for decora-
tons. That band played az only a trained
South American hnnd ca Dlcy
1t was the opinion Of naval officers who
have dined the world over, with kings and
emperois. with great welcoming committees
and the like, with Government guests Of our
" ia Washington and New York, that they
had never attended a better managed affair
than that dinner in Lima. Not only was the
dinner perfect from an epiourean standpoint
but the service matched il, Every APP
pointment was in the best taste. Not the
slightest detail was lacking. The American
oficers grew enthusiastic and when Presi
dent Pardo finished his address Of welcome
there was tremendous enthusiasm. The
President. after Admiral Thomas had made
his reply, arose and walked into a beautiful
illuminated garden and there the diners met
him socially and found this young man, who
represents what Peru has needed most for
years, a commercial and not a military gov
eminent, man delightful and u%nassuming,
one with a grasp upon matters Of statesman
ship which showed that not only was he
practical in his management Of the country
but a good deal Of a scholar. Pardo believes
! in education rather than the sword. in the
development Of commerce rather than in
personal aggrandizement and the display Of
military force.