The sun., 1908-06-21


one. The tight sheath skirt does not ap-
pear to contain much superfluous material:
but in order to give it the lines demanded
it must be cut with utter disregard OF
economy in material and with the one aim
in view Of securing just the correct sweep,
the artistic folds.
However, all that is another story. For
to-day the new sleeve is our theme, and the
new sleeve in many Of it's phases is full of
possibilities for the made over bodice.
II one were to. generalize sweepingly one
would merely say that the modsh sleeve
defines the lines Of the arm more clearly
than did the sleeve Of yesteryear Even
where the sleeve is a draped affair with
soft full folds the outer line Of the arm is
in evidence and nothing save full, bouffant
skirt will make frock look so out Of date
as will the larger puff sleeves which seemed
to us very moderate in size twclvemonth
ago.
Where the single puff is used, as in the
average lingerie blouse and in many simple
cotton frocks, this puff is only full enough
to correspond with the negligee type of
blouse. 1t is not enough now, as it was last
summer to alter an old sleeve by turning
it upside down. with the fullest part at the
top rather than bagging at the bottom.
One must radically diminish tho top full
ness as we'll
In the coats and tailored costumes this
change Is very pronounced. The dropping,
well defined shoulder line is emphasized,
and even where the sleeves are enormous
and partake OF the Japanese character
the size is in the armhole, the fulh ess is
under and across the arm and the shoulder
line and outer arm are olinging. In many
instances this effect is secured by cutting
the upper part OF the sleeve or the outer
part Of the sleeve in one with the yoke or
body Of the coat, but in other models the
correct lines are preserved by fat armhole
trimming and a sleeve set in without full
ness
In the tailored coat with normal arnhole
sleeve almost close fitting and with little
fulness at the top of the armhole is the
generally accepted thing, but many smart
imported suits Of the severely tailored
order have their coat sleeves set in smoothly
Ike mans coat sleeve, with no fulness
at ALL and in some smart models eventhe
armhole seam is concealed by fat braid
or band trimming, which finds an echo else
where on the coat.
For coats and costumes Of dressier char
acter, yet of certain severity, there are
numerous sleeves fitting the arm quite
closely and formed of overlapping folds
running round the arm, each fold falling
smoothly and clingingly over the one be-
meath it. In such an arrangement the fold
idea is often continued upon the shoulder
Of the bodice, so that the line Of armhole
demarcation is hardly perceptible and the
sleeve has almost the air Of being made in
one with the body of the bodice.
One Of the sketches shown here will illus
trate this point. The model sketched was
long sleeve fitting very closely we'll down
over the hand. little buttons and loops
fastening IL on the wrist 80 that it might
allow the hand to pass through its small
est part.
Similar sleeves in short length are liked,
and others-like another model pictured
among the cuts-have only small tucks
running round the arms in place of the
deeper overlapping folds. This last sleeve,
in elbow length, with some fiat trimming
running around the bottom and up little
way on the outer seam and with a rather
deep frill OF mousseline or lace corre-
spending with a jabot filling in the coat
fronts is favorite for the popular Direo-
toire coat.
One sees deep frills too finishing long,
close sleeves and falling over the hands,
but this is detail too uncomfortable and
impractical to find very general acoep-
tanoe, though the touch is often very pretty
and effective in connection with a deep
frill around the high standing collar or
perhaps front frils
Many long, close sleeves are buttoned
along the outside seam throughout their
entire length. Others have overlapping
soallops or points along their outside seam,
with button set in each soallop or point.
One very smart sleeve sketched for this
page was braided in soutache all the way
down the front, the braidlng forming points
along the back OF the sleeve and each point
being finished by pendent tasssl.
Tho long. tight fitting. wrinkled or tucked
sleeve Of transparent material such as
net, lace or chiffon, has already become
very familiar and may be either quite plain
or finished by little frill or double frill
along the outside seam. This frill rnrst
OF course DO widest at tho top Of the sleeve
and narrow. an Il deeceaads and In all cassa