The Columbus journal., 1908-10-07

miles with purple ana Wnlte IT'S. ~
the north were the snow capped
ranges of the Himalayas, rising to a
height of $4,000 feet.
Returning to the river, We were
towed through a rich grazing country
to the headwaters of the Sind, At
this point we struck a most pic
turesque and charming stretch Of
country, the Sind valley, leading to
the foothills of the Himalayas, where
the brown and the black bear are fire.
quently seen as they come down from
the mountains to drink. Within a
days march the big antlered stag, an
occasional leopard and numerous
small game are found. Many hunting
camps are pitched in these Sc
questered hooks, but we tarried not
until We reached Shadipore, q strag-
Cling village, once the center Of the
cashmere shawl industry.
Let us enter one of the rickety
houses or shops where shawl weaving
is carried on. Crowded in this smoke
begrimed place. its mud floor worn in
to hollows. are five old looms tied
up with bits of string and adorned
with cobwebs. A cows horn, polished
by long usage, serves as beam pin.
Before the looms are seated a dozen
or more ragged men and boys. They
handle the many colored bobbins deft-
ly. A pattern of the fabric lies before
v1yif NJ
soiled paper. For this work they re-
ceive from four to eight annas a day,
equivalent to eight and sixteen cents
of our money. The master of the shop
squats on the floor, smoking his hook
ah, or long pipe. He rises at our ap-
proach, salaams and proceeds to
show his goods. They are good enough
of their kind, but the fineness of the
old time shawl is wanting, and as for
the coloring, aniline dye is stamped
all over it. The artisans who under
stood how to use the beautiful vege-
table dyes and weave the lovely pat
terms of our grandmothers' shawls
have long since been lying in the hum
BILE graveyard close by the purling
stream that rushes from the mountain.
In midsummer the Jehlum is swol-
len from the melting SHOWS of the
mountains. The river overflows its
banks and the currents are very
strong. Taking advantage of a favor
able moment. we were carried swift
ly down to Srinagar. Dismissing the
2S natives who had poled and towed
the boats for weeks, sometimes up to
their waists in water, four strong
mounshies, or rowers, were selected
for the trip to Dahl lake. On the
shores of this lovely and exquisite
sheet of water, hidden within its leafy
glades and well wooded shores, are
the remains of the beautiful marble
palaces of the mogul rulers. Their
names are lost in oblivion, but in the
gardens. palaces and foundations
which they erected still stand to de-
light the eye Of the traveller. AS we
glide swiftly along, flocks of sheep
and cattle, ruined mosques and mon
asteries on the hillside form a de-
lightful picture. In the reeds and
ruSheS numerous water fowl make
their home. Above us fit birds of
beautiful plumage, their liquid notes
filling the air. The eagle and hawk
are there, but keep out of range of the
rifle. Queer native craft drift by, Ia
den with produce from artificial and
natural gardens on these waterways.
Aquatic plants of the lily family float
on the surface of the water; the To-
tus, with its large, green leaf, sug-
gests the dreamy frame of mind. The
mountains that look down on us are
faithfully mirrored in the clear depths
of the lake. So potent is the witch
cry of the scene that for the moment
We almost believe that Pan might play
his pipe, or that we ourselves are of
the stuff that dreams are made on"
Reluctantly we turned our backs on
the lovely scene. and were rowed
back in the beauty of the sunset
through the winding nullahs, with a
most distinct and never to be forgot
ten picture of lovely Dahl lake firmly
printed on our mental vision.
Rawalpindi was reached on the fifth
day after leaving Srinagar, and we
were once more at the terminus of
the Punjab railway. Thus ended our
trip to Cashmere.