Omaha daily bee., 1908-11-29
FASHION IN THE OVERCOAT
The Chesterfield Still Best for All
Around Use.
STYLE CALLS FOR A D1RECTo1RE
PaIetots and Covert Goats Continue
60 Have Admirers-The Ulster
for Auto or street
Wear.

Therefore consider what is decribed as a
Directoirs coat for men.
All the crimes that may be committed
under that name in women's dress might
perhaps be forgiven; but IL seems as If
there could never be any excuse for this
overcoat. 1t is a three-quarter length
garment and is made in its most %yirulenf
manifestation in a striped material.
From the waist line down there are two
side vents fastened together by three larse
bone buttons. A double. fanlike vent goes
down the back Of the coat. The back is
loose TO produce the Directoire effect.
Wide side pockets are applied. and Of
course over them, as VIII as over the breast
pocket, is a patch which buttons down.
Tn sleeves are finished with deep cuffs
pointed at the back. The roll collar is sup
piled with a button hole. The designer
OF this garment says that it Is intended for
"the young element Of extreme dressers."
They would have TO be both very young
and very extreme to select such a coat for
winter wear. whether they bought It In
brown, blue or green. which are the shades
in which It comes. There is no part of a
mans dress that so calls out for conserv-
atism as the overcoat. 1t takes a great
deal OF money to justify a man in purchas-
ing an overcoat OF conspicuous cut or
pattern.
When one speaks Of conservatism in
clothes the mind naturally turns to the
Chesterfield. which may be described as
the foundation OF the overcoat world. II
all the other patterns ever invented should
be lost, there would still be in the Chester
field enough left 10 clothe men correctly
and modishly. II is suited to dress wear,
1t is suited to business and 1t makes a good
sporting coat as any other. 1t Is truthfully
said that the Chesterfield is what the
material makes it and that II Is railways
appropriate.
For business wear the Chesterfield Is
the best Of patterns. 1t is this year made
somewhat closer to the figure han In re-
cent winters and there is little or no full
ness at the bottom. The length has much
to do with determining its smartness and
care must be taken not TO have it more
than nine inches longer than one-half the
height of the wearer. That brings the
bottom Of the coat to a point a few inches
below the knees.
The tendency is this year to make these
coats OF cassimeres and worsteds that
show a small and rather in-distinguishable
pattern. but they are more dressy in a
black worsted with no ~distinguishable pat
tern. If they are intended for wear in the
coolest weather there is a velvet notched
collar. II the coat is for moderate weather
the collar is made OF silk Of about the
same color as the goods and there il no
velvet.
The side pockets have flaps and so has
the change pocket. but the breast pocket
is without this finish. The shoulders have
No padding but are made to fit closely.
4 n .A--MG
soEIe Difference to the lines of the figure.
but very little. Anything like cutting in the
body to follow the waist or figure line
should not be attempted.
There is. OF course. a seam down the
middle Of the back and a deep vent,
There Is a ny to hide the buttons, since the
coat which show the buttons through are
an extravsgant fashion
Wearing a Chesterfield OF this kind q
man is well dressed for many occasions.
In the evening. at business or on Sundays
with his silk hat on he may be satisfied
with his getup.
For weather that requires a lightweight
coat the Chesterfield is made up in a lighter
cloth usually a gray. although there arc
some made in brown or even tan colored
tweeds Of very rough finish. They have
O1N.A1 VI a Nbht NAdN uldLGnGH m
color of the cloth. Although smart they
are not 30 dressy as the other.
The lapels should be about two and a hall
inches broai and the collar about three,
quarters of an inch narrower. The rough
cloth for lighter wear Is made I'D with
double seams but. the heavier Chesterfield
for winter wear has no such additions,
ornament There are not always turned
I hack ruffa on ehaaa ~oaea an1 .h- 49,
opinion now is that the best style is tc
have no turned back cuff. only the extra
cuff set on.
The paletot. newmarket or paddock coat
as it is vaIieusly called. never loses al
its admirers. FUr dress there is a certain
degree Of comfort in the long coat tall
which imparts a confidence Of modlshnes,
to some of the men that wear them.
These coats should be about five incheI
less in length thar th~ree-quarters OF tn,
height of the weaTe, and thus fall TO abou
4 six inches above tive lnstep. It is invari
able that they should fit the figure closely
The waist line must be plainly outlined
r and the coat. which is buttoned under
r fly. must show the figure plainly. So +
= is not a coat for men in the least bl
T stout. If they show the slightest trace
E Of having swallowed the watermelon {
will be plainly visible in a coat OF thi
kind.
The broad iapels are Of the material o
c the coat. the collar Is of velvet and tn
y turned back cuffs are buttoned az In
I back There is no change pocket and bot
I the side and breast pockets close with
e lapel.
The shoulders. as ia all the oyercoat
e this winter. are not padded and are o
y natural width The roll should not exten.
: below the breast line.
As the paletot depends for its smartnes
on a good fit such a coat should not b
h bought ready made. 1t must be yer
carefully made by a tailor who knows hi
business II is a mistake 70 select to
8 light or striking a material for II.
o It is Just as much OF a mistake 10 al
n tempt to make such a coat serve for a
@ purposes. II is distinctly only for dress.
e More Informal are the double breaste
= coat and the covert which still survive.
although Il has departed far from Il
n original purpose. The double breasted Coz
is really a garment for sporting use an
q is only in its proper place on top OF
e hraEa m = eoarh Eu.r a. a.. -