Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1908-01-20

as last winter, on the collar. From the
lower corner in front the line runs hori-
zontally, forming a rectangle instead of
a deep point The tails are cut away
more sharply, vet not so pronouncedly
as to expose the trousers pocket, which
is equipped with a fly to button snugly
on the inside.
So far as the general set of the gar
ment is concerned, the preference is for
generous fullness below the shoulders
not across them, mind you-so that fold
appears under the shoulder seam. The
effect Of this construction is to accen-
tuate the snugness at the waist. and its
trimness is further enhanced by the press
ing out Of the tail seam.
Make-BeIieVe Cuffs
Although the susllowtail has been Sc
we're in it's plainness. the garments worn
by the smart element have one or two
slight changes that betoken desire for
some ornamentation. The sleeves have
the simulated cuff l4nish, similar in looks
to a pleat, but in reality separate piece
with a follower where 1t is attached to
the sleeve. The buttons are frequently
covered with silk of two distinct weaves,
the center being very fine and the rim
basket weave or barathea.
Trousers are roomy, but not pegged, and
This braid measures seven-eighths of an
inch in width and has a serpentine. raised
satin strip down the center. OF course, I
am describing here the evening suit of
the season that is accepted as final. by
men who, while not extreme in taste, in
slst upon some new effects every year.
There are those, 1 know, who will con-
tend that these departures are inconsis-
tent with the much-vaunted elegance
of 81 1.-n baa eH
as the tepmost summit of smartness. But
the fact is, men of means and sound
judgment are seeking some method of
attaining greater richness without gro
tesqueness You will see this attitude
toward dress particularly in the accesso-
ries, which are moving distinctly toward
elaboration however this may be ques-
toned in some quarters Now and then
we are told men will uress plainly in flu
ture because they are too deeply i'm
mersed in business nowadays to bestow
even passing thought on art in dress. But
they are seeking it.
Brocaded Waistcoats
Notable among the examples Of this
tendency is the growing favor of brocaded
waistcoats. This is a formal garment
fashioned on customary lines. 1t is in
connection with informal evening clothes,
however, that the desire for elaboration
asserts itself most conspicuously. One
sees frequently at the cubs a waistcoat
closer to an old gold shade than it has
been possible to produce without the
actual use of a gilded fabric. The pat
tern is a small figure and the tone is OBJ
tanned by a tan silk overshot on a black
warp which barely shows through. The
buttons are to match, with coral, gold
trimmed center. Actual gold and silver
cloths are also much used, the ground
being hello gray, white and delicate
green silk.
In October l mentioned overcoats, not
ing that the very full Chesterfield has the
preference over the more shapely models.
To my comment then it need only be add
ed that the loose, roomy overcoat hang
ing in ample folds from the shoulders, is
fashioned invariably with broad lapels,
button-through front and double cuffs.
For business usage the short topcoat has
had q bit of revival though only in the
dark shades. We may look for a decided
return to this garment next spring, and
year hence to the shapely Paddock.
There are vivid plaid Innings In some Of
the better custom coats, but the modest
plaids are distinctly the thing. The cur
rent vogue of high colors will play itself
out before another autumn rolls around.
1t is being somewhat overdone by the
crowd, and that means invariably the be-
ginning Of the end.