davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27

--Ew YORK. Sept. B.-The French
Mt neckwear displayed In the shops
l which make a speciality OF such
- novelties grows more bewitch-
&E9kM Ing day by day. and one nav
- spend an appalling amount on
the dainty handmade trifies. il
one Is willing and able to do IL.
The hand embroidered linen COLLAR,
which queened 1t over ell other neokuear
last season and often brought astonishing
prices are still on the fashionable list b,,
now they are forced to share their re,gn
with a host Of stock arrangements. and tho
frilly lingerie Jabots and bows. etc. which
were worn with the linen collars. find their
prototypes in the similarly friIIy arrange
ments which are associated with the stocks.
In this latter case, however, the frnls are
usually attached to the stocks instead OF
being separate accessories.
In It's simplest form the new stock for
wear with collarless blouses is merelv n
close high collar. sometimes higher at
sides and back than in front. and finished
at the bottom with a narrow oravat OF
some kind, which will cover the line Of
union between collar and ~neckband. These
collars are made OF tucked, corded or en-
broidered lingerie material, with or without
inset lines of lace, and are usually finished
at the top by a plated frill, though many
good models are without any frill at all.
and others have the narrowest possible
plating, which may be becoming to the
woman who cannot wear one Of the modish
wide frills.
Some Of the very p~rettiest Of these col
lars are Of plated lingerie stuff with mar
row lines Of real baby Irish lace dividing
NIa $1,000 - A..a-
a satin cravat a narrow cravat OF the baby
Irish is used. the Insertion being bound
narrowly on each edge with the batiste or
lawn and finished at the ends with little
Irish bangles Of some sort
Other stocks have the close high collar
with plated frills around top and bottom,
and while the ruche at the top may range
from a quarter Incl to two inches in width,
the one at the bottom may be narrow and
may be four or five inches deep, spreading
out flat over a plain corsage OF guimpe.
The width of the plating around the bot
tom OF the collar Is usually graduated, be-
ing greater at the back than on the shout
ders, and sometimes attaining considerable
dimensions in front, as in one Of the models
sketched here, in which the plated frill
falls like a rounded bib over the corsage
front
Another model which figures among the
cuts has a deep point in front and a tiny
cravat of taffeta bound with lawn e~ncircles
the base of the throat and ties in a small
bow, whose ends are finished with minute
p~laitings of lawn
In the same group with this effective col.
lar was a high collar of tucked net and
real valenciennes. finished at top and bot
tom by plated frills of the valenciennes
A narrow folded scarf of net was drawn
around the collar just below the top fril
and knotted onoe in front, the long ends
widening and trimmed In lace insertion
and edging.
Fine net is used quite as often as lingerie
materials for such stocks. In fact. net may
now be reckoned among the lingerie stuffs
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27

white. In place OF the high turn-down
linen collars Parisians are to a oonsidera-
BILE extent wearing very high collars Of
stiff linen without the rundown part.
These are shaped upward toward the
back and fasten with two little studs or
buttons in the back. They are usually en-
broidered and are in all white or in white
and color, and some OF the dalntiest models
have little double tabs of fine lawn en-
broidered to match the collar and fasten-
Ing to the latter by being passed through
eyelt slips at the base OF the collar in
front.
Ruching OF the finely plated sort Is hav-
Ing on enormous sale in various widths and
is offered in fine net, in silk mousseline and
in hemstitched lawn, batiste and null.
The lingerie plating, II fine and carefully
hemstitchsd. Is exceedingly smart as Paris
ian ideas of smartness go, but its heavy
opaque white is often unbecomlng where
the softer, more transparent net is becom-
ing, and this point needs careful consid-
Grafton.
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27

back they are inverted so that the seal
Hoped or pointed edge may serve as an
ornamental finish for the lower edge of a
round or square yoke. This is usually of
entre-deux strips of lace, with batise, or
of the finest of all-overs inset with filet
medallions. The sleeves are Of the flounc-
ing trimmed to match the yoke.
Every day produces something very novel
in trimmings, until one is fairly bewildered
In any attempt to choose. Some of the
smartest garnitures are the result not of
the professional designers art, but of the
couturiere and the less pretentious dress"
maker. For example. a charming and eff
fective border for a tunic was evolved by
a combination OF materials and ideas. Di-
rectly on tho edge was laid a banding of
silk. In this case It happened to be dark
blue; set Just over the edge of it was APP
plique lace dyed a smoky blue. The pat
tern was one of deep points with a scroll
dsign at its base, 80 1t served the purpose
peculiarly well. Between the points, partly
on the silk and partly on the cloth of the
tunic, were a series Of graduated dots en-
broidered in golden brown silk. Another
border design consisted Of an iridescent
banding set between narrow applique lace
edges.
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27

servants to get the work done to their
satisfaction and there is one branch of
housewifery In which they excel-the maxi
ing of "komfyt" or preserves. whether
Jam making of the ordinary kind or a
more elaborate method OF preserving the
delicious fruit of the land.
Wide as the poles asunder are the edu-
Gated Dutch women of the towns or those
indeed Of the country who have been sent
to Cape Colony or to Europe to school.
AS adaptable as the Americans, with de-
cided mental ability, they are full OF COM
mon sense, of good tempered gayety and
an Inherent sense OF SAVIOR vivre.
A girl who has been to a good school in
South Africa and afterwards In Europe
has something most charming and fasci-
mating about her. Handsome, vivacious,
capable, with a clear idea Of what she
wants and how to get It, she carves a
pleasant and useful way for hersealf
through life.
Her out-of-doors life has made her
strong and healthy ard she sees the ad-
vantage OF a certain amount of exercise.
Since the war, II not before. she has taken
a great interest IN politics as well as in the
work of her father or husband and in phil
anthropical matters she displays strong
organizing ability. She has not yet de-
veloped the "female bachelor ways OF in
dependent English womanhood, for in
South Africa in every colony there is a
large surplus of men and the Dutch girl
invariably merries young and rules hus-
band and family ever after.
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27
RELIGIOUS NOTES.

Following, out g plan Of Archbishop
erals of priestp in the future will consist
men. Fifty priests Of the archdiocese have
begun rehearssls Of the music.
Archbishop Bruchssi says that the next
tina city-Notre Dame-has a larger floor
Ing this side OF the City Of Mexico.
Since Mr.. Sankey's death there yet re-
main two at least Of the writers and mus;
ical composers OF the famous Gospel
Songs" These are James T.. M~cGranahan,
a fine tenor singer, and w. II. Doane, who
wrote Rescue the Perishing." and other
Rev. Or, J. R; j. Minigan. pastor Of
Cleveland, was elected moderator OF. the
authority over fifty presbyteries, called the
Allegheney, Butler. Beaver Valley, Lakes
and Cleveland Presbyteries and embracing
200 churches.
Pope Plus received thousands Of tele-
grams and addresses OF fSlicitation from
f fSfsiy ana n5 aST9sa on Of me ths oc SsI 7 G5 'a az
his first mass personally in st. Peters, and
about 5000 persons attended, including eight
United States was represented by Arch
bishop Farley OF New York and his suite.
The return OF Cardinal Gibbons to Bal
occasion OF OF welcome worthy Of the city
and appropriate to the homecoming Of a
primes Of the church, The venerable pre-,
the Pope and TO attend the Eucharistio
Congress in London. 1t is hoped to have
5000 loyal Catholics in the procession that
will escort him from the railroad station
to the archiepiscopal residence.
The abbey of Marmoutler. near Tours,
where st, Martin ruled as abbot and
bishop, and where his body was buried,
has been saved from destruction or degra-
dalton to cheap uses. through It's purchase
the building date from early In the 18th
century, and the grottos and cells in the
rocks where st. Martin and his monks
dwelt while their monastery was being
built are interesting to all tourists, as
well as TO the religious visitor.
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27
The Gentle Art of shopping.

Who are the professional shoppers, who
are they that so excel the average woman
in her favorite pastime? Until lately there
were IN New York City alone 5000 of these
gifted buyers, reports Harpers Weekly. but
suddenly a relentless edict was passed, and
the number was reduced at one fell crash
to a mere 500. And the surviving 500 are
doing business to this day, toiling at 1t
steadily from morn till dewy eve; compar-
ing. pricing, choosing, buying, and for
warding to their customers the goods that
they demand. The surplus $500 were eliml-
mated because they were not regular. That
is TO say, they followed the fascinating
business of shopping only as an avooatlon,
used it as a side line to increase their in
comes by buying things for casual Gus
toners In their off hours.
The first professional shopper in New
York is a woman who began in 1854, and is
stln at the head Of an increasing business
that has far outgrown her most ambitious
dreams. There are many amateurs or semi
amateurs In the field. but the purchasing
agent mentioned is one OF the best known
and OF longest experience. She was at
the head Of the dress making department
| when failing health forced her to give up
that employment. AS she had many regu-
lar customers in distant cities she offered
to buy things for them. Knowing their
tastes as she did she had little difficulty in
selecting the very articles they liked best.
Soon she had to hire an assistant-two-
t~hree-soon there were six. Also she built
up a dress making establishment that en-
ployed a score Of experts I'm the art and
mystery Of fashioning feminine costumes.
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27

S competition III Ine Ilelu.
Such is the warning posted on the cor
sage Of the London Queen by a South AZ
rlcan correspondent The Dutch women of
the Transvaal. says the. writer. are tall
and splendidly developed. and there are
the two distinct types. tbs purely Dutch
with golden brown hair. gray or hazel eyes
and creamy skin and the brunette of
French descent with dark eyes and hair
and rich coloring. But both types are on
a larger scale than their European ante
cedents. TRe sun Of South Africa Is a
great vitalizer, and the children of that
land OF vast spaces have more room to
grow and develop in, n they lead from
their infancy such an out of doors life
that they are bound to be an improvement
physically on their sisters of the northern
hemisphere.
Dutch women of South Africa always
accompanied their husbands In their large
hooded, slow moving wagons. Their
nomadic existence tended to carelessness OF
habits and OF dress, but It developed in
them an infinite capacity for preserving
effort. a strength of character. a stub
bornness, as we'll as great vitality. all of
which excellent qualities go to the making
OF a strong nation.
The present generation can be divided
into two distinct classes, the Inhabitants
OF the weld and those OF the towns and
villages, and while the fundamental char
acteristics are the same-grit, tenacity,
ievelheadedness. independence-still. there
is a wide difference between the the Boer
woman OF the country and the educated
Dutch woman OF the owns.
The former on reaching the age OF 80
are large. fat and heavy. They marry
very young and have patriarchal families,
and over husband and children they WELD
a great sway a n influence very much
greater than that OF the English woman.
To a stranger the Boer vrouw appears
stupid and silent; she shuts her mouth de-
terminedly and sits stolidly through his
visit; but in reality she is taking a detailed
memorandum OF his appearance. ways, and
manners and nothing escapes her notice.
If she is persuaded Of his friendllness and
good intentions She may relax a little; but
the Dutch never by any chance tell you any
thing more than they wish you to know.
The Boer women have always been ac-
eustomed to a good supply Of Kafir ser
wants on their farms and they are not
quite the energetic housewives one imag-
ines. but they generally prevail on their
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27

and is freely combined with batiste, lawn.
null, etc.
Jabot arrangements Of all sorts are COM
oined with stock collars TO match. n col
lar and yoke combinations are numerous,
while guimpe and sleeve sets are offered
In all grades, the sleeves made on the pre-
vailing lines. long and close. These sets
are made up in black and colors. as well
as in white and cream, and transparent
sleeves now almost invariably match the
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27

back, and we have seen the collar
worn with excellent effect. Not only black
velvet ribbon, but pale pink velvet blue,
cerise, etc, are used in this way.
Collars entirely of soft satin ribbon to
match a frock or hat are very smart and
comparatively reasonable in price, several
rows of the frilled or plated ribbons being
set on each edge of a close, high, folded
collar Of the ribbon; and adorable little
collars Of velvet and tulle. fur trimmed, are
among the latest novelties. but Of these
we will tell the story next week in con-
nection with fur neck pieces.
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27
Mother Controlled voters.

Mrs. Sarah Plat Decker, president OF tho
General Federation of Women's clubs, is
an ardent suffrsgist. During the year, that
Mrs. Decker has been president OF the
General Federation OF Women's clubs. re-
lates the Delineator, she has Travelled all
over the union several times and has been
called on again and again TO explain that
really nice women" do vote. In one OF
the eastern seaboard states an elderly rem
tleman asked for information, and when
Mrs. Decker said frankly that she not only
always voted, but was a suffragist from
principle and conviction, he could not con-
ceal his grief. You don't look H." he said
earnestly. II would never have thought
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27
Bishop Grafton on Sunday Base Ball.

Bishop Grafton of the Episcopal diocess
of Fond du Lac, Wis, whose attention
was called to an attack on Sunday baseball
by one OF his clergy, gave the following
and his Views on the much discussed ques-
ton: whether any recreation on Sunday
is allowable must depend upon the individ-
ual conscience. If recreation interferes
with his primal duty to God then 1t ought
to be given up, and while a number of
devout Christians would abstain from the
recreation named, there are others who
look at baseball games or attend a free
concert at the park. which is not harmful
to their spiritual life, they having done
their duty by attending in the morning
the divine worship prescribed by Christ.
Sunday is a day OF devotion, rest and rec
reation. While the church forbids all SER
vile work that can be avoided, IL does
not interfere with any recreation that does
not interfere with a Christians devotional
duty.
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27
Leaves From Fashions Notebook.

There is a great fancy for the waist piped
along the seams with another color: Waists
velvet are made up In this manner.
Trend toward the classic grows daily
more emphatic. both in outline and detail,
and not a point is lost that can possibly
tend TO Recentuate flowing lines and cling
ing effects.
Colored embroidery aids largely in em-
phasizing the tinting scheme of some of the
two-tone waists developed in the sheerest
that a yoke effect in solid color is pro-
duced. On these the embroidery should
show scarcely any white, the better to
deepen the color-tone effect.
To wear with the lingerie blouses there
are little wraps Of lace, or perhaps a cape
would be a better term to apply TO the lit
tie article. It is thrown around the should
ends to fsu upon the gown. There is an
opportunity for the display OF a very hand
some brooch where the lace is secured upon
the bust,
The wrist bag is part OF the blouse these
days; It must match; its embroideries must
carry out the harmony OF the waist, and
there must be a general symphony OF APP
p~earance. as a modiste expressed II. Lovely
bags of embroidered suede are carried with
waists that are Of the same tone. The
lining Of the bag must match the hat OR
the waist itself.
Shirt waists for cold weather wear are
made Of striped lawn. The lawn is finished
with washable silk and is worn over a lin
ing of pink or blue or delicate green to
match the stripes in the waist. With the
lawn shirt waist there is worn a Jabot OF
tulle or lawn, with edges scalloped by
hand. All the fine, soft materials are
impressed into the service of making these
jabots. They are worked by hand in many
colors.
Embroidery flouncings are extensively
employed in the development of the high
class and extremely ornate lingerie blOuses
When they are used for the front and
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27
What CIuB Women are Doing.

Mabel Erwin, a young girl OF 10, in Bed
FORD, IND, has passed the examination and
been granted a one-year teachers license.
In most schools the rules do not allow
girls TO enter the hig school until they
are - years old.
Harriet Stanton Batch, the noted suf-
tragist and daughter of r Cady Stanton,
mas been asked by Mrs. Clarence Mackay
TO address the pupils Of the Roslyn school,
who are competing for the prize that she
Is offering for the best essay on woman
suffrage.
A st. Louis woman who has recently be-
come the proprietor of a second fashion
able hotel was asked why she added this
responsibility to her already great amount
OF work. We'll, l just did IT," she said,
because four men had failed and / wanted
to show that a woman could make that
hotel pay"
The equal rights wave has reached the
shores OF China, and It Is reported that a
number Of wives In Canton have left their
husbands, saying that they will no longer
be subject to them. The wives have the
worst OF II, however. as the law gives
power TO imprison them, and they have had
to suffer the consequences Of their rash
resolves.
Mrs. f. N. Munson OF Connecticut made
$1,000 last year raising white Holland
turkeys, and, as she tells about It. the
work does not seem so very hard. She
Is very careful with her broods and kills
every chick that is not up TO the mark
which shows what a woman can do wher
she thinks circumstance demand II, how
ever painful the work may be.
Marie Heilbran OF Chicago has invented a
mechanical device which will throw thous-
ands OF her sex out OF employment, a letter
opener that will open 400 letters in a min
ute, or 600 in a day, the number that had
to be opened at the house In which she
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27

Aip1h III NUlblf al
though some white
may be introduced
next the face in the
guimpe.
Narrow lawn ties,
daintily embroidered
on the ends, are
much worn with
linen collars, and the
prettiest are OF white
with colored ends on
which designs are
finely embroidered in
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27

We have spoken
before Of the neck
ruches in plated
net, ribbon. etc,
but they increase
and multiply so
rapidly that they
are q constant sur
prise. Certain
youthful collars for
wear with light
frocks are made Of
wide. finely plated
white tulle sewed
III lWO TOWb Oh
each edge of a
broad, black velvet
ribbon whose width
is the extreme col
lar height.
The b Is
drawn round the
throat and knotted
in a big, soft bow
of front aide Or
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27

you we're a woman that voted. You look
like such a comfortable woman!'
Once after a meeting in one of the poorer
sections of Denver, a little old woman went
up to Mrs. Decker and asked whether she
might be permitted TO bring the family"
to a meeting which had been announced
for the Brown Palace hotel a week later.
Mrs, Decker assured her that she could,
thinking that there were probably a grown
up daughter and half a dozen grandchil-
dren who would enjoy the ice cream. Then
II passed from her mind; but at the con-
clusion Of the meeting at the Brown the
same shabby little woman appeared, say
ing she would like to nave Mrs. Decker
meet her family. would you mind COM
ing to the back of the hall?" she said
timidly; they didn't like to come up front"
Still with those children in her minds
eye, Mrs. Decker made her way to the
rear of the room. 1t was a woman's meet
ing, but the little old lady had brought
her family of seven sons, none of them
under six feet tall.
But Mrs. Decker was equal to the oc-
casion, and asked for the absent member
Of the family. We'll, you see, dad sells
his vote" replied one of the children
awkwardly. Were noways proud Of dad,
but mother is all right and we always vote
like she tells us o." From this it may be
seen that a woman does not lose her I'm
fluence" by possessing the ballot.
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27

phases OF life, who refuses to sub
NIT to "the oppressor's wrongs, the proud
mans contumely, the insolence of Office
a humorist9
The humor of women is the more deli
cate element, softened and molded-re-
tarded, if you wildly suffering and sor-
row
l would rather tell a joke. a real Joke.
to a woman, or to an audience OF women,
than to a man. Relate to her a Joke that
is clothed with intelligence and humanity
and you have the best audience In the
world. I am willing to admit that wo-
mans sense OF humor Is not so well de-
veloped as mans. Indeed. 1t has been
somewhat stunted by the sufferings and
sorrows OF women. However. the result Of
that suffering gives us a mind better at
tuned to the delicate things Of life; 1t Is
responsive to the finer chords of music,
Of poetry-of humor.
In a negro colony in the south a northern
woman spent some idle days observing
the social conditions of the plantation ne
gro. Standing in the doorway of an old
cabin was a nanny calling to the chill
dren in the field: "Exy, Exy, yo' come
right heah." A small, animated woman
was interested and she asked the old ne
gress; us that the child's name-Exy2
What a queer name!' "Yes'm, yes'm. Use
got good. 'riginal names foh my chil'un.
/ gets EN- from de almanac. 'Exy' amt
her fun name, no stree; her complete name
am 'Exzema.'
Omaha daily bee., 1908-09-27
women Are umOrist Rest Audience

women Are HumOrtsts Best Audience
Poor woman, what humor is committed
in thy name, and at thy expense! Liter
ature's and humanity's debt to you IL
great; for what is more delicious than the
naive. frequently unconscious humor OF
women7 Let us not speak so much Of
women's sense of appreciation Of humor
as Of their fine contribution to It, writes
May Irwin in the Delineator. I do not
refer TO the unwilling sacrifices they have
made on the low altar OF the modern pro-
fessional writer OF jokes, who has made
so many and such poor variations OF the
original thirteen. Let us dismiss this i'm
poverished mind as quickly and with as
much sorrow as We do his woful assaults
on the m~other-in-law the henpecking wife,
the boarding house woman and the old
maid. lie is not worth considering in the
discussion OF humor,
Humor is a matter OF environment, OF
habits, Of living, even more than It is Of
temperament. Everybody. regardless or
sex. or station, is born with a sense Of
humor. but there are circumstances that
retard OF develop the f~aeulty-for a fac
ulty I believe Ii Is. Some OF us are born
with a greater sense than others, but the
distribution is not governed by sex. There
have been almost as many women humor-
lists as there have been men humorists. I
mean this in the sense OF feeling, as we'll
person who feels the joy OF spring as
much OF a poet as he who is able to ex-
press It? Is not the one who enjoys the