davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-04-19
dressy wear over coIored frooks.

dressy wear over colored frocks.
The two small wraps illustrated in the
large sketch are other examples Of what
the designers are achieving in this line,
Both OF these were N suite with imported
costumes, but either could be easily and
satisfactorily copied,
The one, a mere shoulder wrap, was OF
plain navy blue pongee with a delightful
little embroidered collar Of lingerie and lace
and accompanied a simple semi-emplre
frook Of dark blue and white marqulsette
trimmed in plain blue pongee, embroidered
batiste and lace. We have seen exactly
the same model In black chiffon broadoloth,
bound In black satin and lined with black
and white polka dot foulard, for wear with
a black and white polka dot foulard frock;
aud have seen the little cape in a sapphire
blue cloth bound in black satin, with
black satin buttons and black tassels,
The other wrap, a fanoiful ooatee- 9th
big japanese sleeves and scarf and front
and back finished by heavy drop ornaments,
Is best carried out in crepe or messallne,
though a very soft chiffon taheta Is prao-
ticable. En- suite with a frook OF sheer
wolfe, marquisette, or, IL the coat is Of crepe,
with a princess frock Of the same crepe,
this Is a delightful little model.
There are many more wraps Of the same
general class, and we have seen in one popu-
lar dressmaking establishment cunning
little empire boleros Of silk in light or vivid
tints, looking much like full short wasted
bodices drawn in closely just under the bust
line and finished by a self frill. These
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-04-19

ness Of the modish materials supply the
other elements. Where a color contrast
Is introduced il is cleverly, artistically
handled. The hamboyant costume is
not the most perfect expression Of the
mode, and the modes which the Easter
season will emphasize are such as 20 de-
light the woman Of fastidious taste.
OF the chosen materials the story has
already been told, but eve yet the mer-
chants are opening up new color and design
effects In these materials, The mania for
blue Is developing TO the point Of m%onotony,
and the woman who hasn't a blue frook
in some shade, navy, peacock, natter,
Copenhagen, Atlantic. hyaointh-what you
Willis the exception, while the soft blues
Of the natter and Copenhagen order are
used TO IN extraordinary degree az re-
lieving notes OF color for collar facings or
tailor coats, waistcoats, pipings. &c.
The biscuit and natural pongee shades are
the only actual rivals Of the blues, but the
list Of fashionable colors seems an endless
one, and certain green's, rose and berry
reds, soft light browns and smoky grays
are emphasized by the French authorities.
Among the very delicate shades. pink
always q summer favorite-is ever more
than usually In evidence, and the pale straw
yellowsand apricot standings, lilac, a silvery
pastel blue, a peculiarly clear, cool green,
and some new tints on the champagne order
are all on the modish list.
White and black, with, relieving color,
has not run its course. and particularly
In the beautiful bordure materials where
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-04-19

The SIMPLEST and lightest Of messaline
%Isatins is likely TO be selected for the irock
made now, and the colorings shown In them
are lovely beyond description,
Made upon very simple lines Of the semi
empire type. hand embroidered in self
color and relieved near the face by a guimpe
Of ilnestne or lace, such q frock is immensely
chic and will give excellent service, In
the smoke grays, the deeper shades Of At
lantio and peacock and sapphire blues, the
deep champagne tints, &o.. the satin gown
Of the sort under discussion Ia sven used
for dressy street wear by the Parisians.
and the satin coat ls becoming more familiar
day by day.
The first separate coat models in black
satin shown in the shops had a cheap and
elderly look, but gradually such coats az
were brought over by a few exclusive i'm
porters are creeping into more general
view and commanding admiration. The
tafeta coat In black. unless Of an elaborate
and fanciful sort, was never q chic and
youthful garment, Satin lends itself much
more readily to a smart tailored simplicity,
and We have seen exceedingly jaunty short
coats in black satin more or less severely
tailored and with originality Of cut and
finish.
These are usually on outaway lines, and
among the best models are those Of Direc-
toire tendencies, with a low standing collar
at sides and back, one or three fastenings,
a three-quarter sleeve and a more or less
sharp slope to the fronts. Some have big
Directoire pockets or simulated pockets,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-04-19

the dressmaker busy for a couple Of months
more. but the chances are that the dull
season. will begin earlier than usual for
dressmskers and milliners this year be-
cause an early spring has made women
bestir themselves to the planning Of summer
outfits considerably in advance OF the
regulation time,
And then too the things shown In the
shops have been so attractive that even
in this year OF financial trials II has been
hard for femininity TO resist buying and
ordering. As We have said before, there
are 30 many wearable frocks.
The woman who gazes in the shop win
dow and says: yes, very pretty, my dear;
but I'd look like a fright in Il, has TO find
some other sop to throw TO her covetous-
mes; for though. there are extreme mod
els, by far the largest percentage Of the
high class models have a certain note OF
quiet elegance which quite sets them apart
from the spectacular.
The self-tone trimmings and embnoideries
and the simplicity OF silhouette which are
characteristics Of the up 10 date frock
have muth 20 do with this refinement Of
styla, and the exquisite oolorings and supple
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-04-19

Other short black satin coats are heavily
hand embroidered though severe in line,
and still others are smartly braided, but
unless braiding is very cleverly applied il
is inclined to cheaper or commonize the
appearance OF the garment, and certainly
the most youthful and jaunty Of these satin
coats ara the more severe models with
originality Of cut and line.
And while we are talking Of short wraps
there is much to be said concerning fanciful
little Coates Of embroidered net, chiffon,
tafieta. crepe, pongee or cloth. The best
Of these we're brought over by the fashiona-
BILE dressmakers and we're en- suite with
frocks, but these models have been copied
for separate use, and many delightful things
Of the kind are nov TO DO found in the
better shops.
We have 10 mind particularly a most
attractive little paletot Of black net, entirely
hand embroidered in fine soptaohe, made
over a loose lining Of sheer black silk and
trimmed with knots Of the same black silk.
This sounds like a wrapf for an elderly woman,
but on the wrap was distinctly youthful
IN air and uncommonly chic for general
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-04-19

the color is introduced in the border design
lovely effects are shown in such coloring.
Black and white stripes, checks, dots, dc,
In which the white ~predominates, are liked
for serviceable little frocks Of marquisette.
mousseline, wolfe, foulard and other soft
stufs, and may be made up very simply
with touches Of black for trimming and
guimpes Of sheer net or lace, with perhaps
a line Of color at the throat.
A French model pictured among the
Sketches shows the chic possibilities In such
a frock. and for the woman whose wardrobe
Ia limited a dainty white and black frock
has the advantage that one does not tire Of
II as one does Of q more pronounced color
scheme. and that any coloring in hat or
accessories is possible with 1t. The scarf
Eirdle Of black liberty and the satin cord
ornaments on the bodice Of the model
Eketohed here are good features,
The lavish use OF satin for trimming
purposes impresses any one who studies
the new modes. IL Is used on everything,
from broadcloth and serge to net and lace,
and not only isft favored for trimming. but
for whole frocks and separate coats a. well.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-04-19

single breasted and cut rather low. There
was a coat collar and the coat buttoned
down to a point below the sharp hip curve,
cutting away very slightly below that point
on lines exactly agreeing with those Of the
tunic bottom.
The coat curved up at the sides, again
following the iine Of the tunic bottom.
and down ID a rounded tail in the back.
1t was slashed up the sides. had full length
coat sleeves and was bound throughout
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-04-19

This tunic buttoned straight down the
front, sloping away into two points at tho
very bottom, IL was bound all down the
front and around the tunio bottom with
an inch and a half Of wide binding Of satin
exactly matching the material and the
single row Of buttons down the front-the
sides actually overlapped and buttoned-
were satin covered.
The coat, Of possibly half length, was
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-04-19

tussor dust coats. 90 numerous and m
popular. are lined with black and white
dotted foulard, and there are loose coats
Of the same character in fine twill navy
blue serge which also have the blue and
white fOuhrd Innings.
Wolfe. % long popular. is worn more than
ever this spring, both in the silk and in tina
sheer fine wool weaves, and the cotton
voiles are wonderfully lovely in color and
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-04-19

design and often quite as expensive ss
the silk or wool Here again is an emf
nently practical material, provided qualities
not too gauzily sheer are chosen, and yet
the frock Of sheer wolfe may be made eI-
tremely dressy in spite Of it's utilitarian
characteristics.
A simple and pretty biscuit wolfe frock
from Doucst illustrates this point, and lie
character will be readily understood from
Continued on FHh Page.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-09-07
LABOR DAY

7 ABOR DAY should be celebrated
i, with enthusiasm. Labor has had
"a a somewhat stormy time of it In
the United States under Republican
rule. Labor remembers the large prom
ises of the Republicans when they were
seeking office, and compares the rosy
picture of perpetual prosperity with the
sad reality.
Yet, we say, Labor day should be
celebrated with enthusiasm, because
labor by bitter experience has come to
it's senses on the subject of Republi-
canism, and it knows the friends of
labor are not those who are most reck-
lessly lavish in their promises. There
fore labor is about to emancipate itself
from un-American conditions by help
ing to place the Democratic party in
power. 1t has adopted a sound and sa-
gacious method of thought with re-
gard to politics and politicians. Labors
attitude toward the Republican prom
isers may be illustrated by the Scot
tish story of the Honorable Lady Betty
and the church collection. Lady Betty
attended the kirk in great state. Her
coming and going created more COM
motion than the arrival and departure
of all of the rest Of the CO. .gregation.
At the church door was what the
Scotch call the "kirk plate" or aims
basin, in which the offerings of the
congregation were placed. To the elders
and deacons who stood guard over the
plate" Lady Betty was in the haplt
of making a most sweeping courtesy
and, having arisen, she would deposit
in the plate" bawbee or half-penny'
small piece of money OF about the
value of cent. Then she would cour-
tesy again and would sweep into church
and march with stately tread to the
Los Angeles herald., 1908-09-07
LOOT AND PANIC

A SYSTEM of financial manipula-
"a ton which was originated, which
~ hourished and waxed strong un-
der protecting Republican influences,
made for a few conspirators in a few
market swings profits of from $5,O0O,-
900 to $4,000, 900 each time the trick
was turned. By united action. able to
produce certain effects upon which they
could confidently count. the dollar lords
sacked the country and the panic was
merely the natural result of the loot or
the United States, and the sack was a
Republican sack the loot was a Re-
publican loot and the panic was Re-
publican panic. The profits made by
the conspirators in each operation
please bear that in mind-not in the
combined operations but in each and
every one of several financial ''coups"-
amounted to from $5,000,000 to $10,~
100000, or from two and a half to five
times the worth of the entire annual
wheat, corn and cotton crops of the
country. The total amount the con-
spirators have been able to accumulate
has been limited only by the amount
accumulated by the hard working, easy
going, long suffering, patient and as far
as financiering is concerned, certainly
somewhat primitive minded people of
the United States.
The average man of the United
States is so thoroughly, SO scrupu-
lously, so Puritanically honest that he
becomes an easy prey to the put up
jobs" of professional financiers. The
language we use in describing their
operations may not be elegant, but 1t
is a waste of civility to use drawing
room manners on professional plum
derers.
President Roosevelts almost super
human efforts to bring the dollar lords
within the strip of the law were foiled
because President Roosevelt is not the
Republican party, and the influences OF
Republicanism were stronger than the
influences of Rooseveltism. To send
another Republican president to the
White House to be made sport for the
Philistines of finance would be to In
yite disaster If Samson Roosevelt
was helpless what would be the fate of
a successor who was not a Samson?
It is high time there was Demo-
cratic administration at Washington.
The safety of the nation demands it.
And as Americans have the saving
grace of common sense as well as
robust habit of self-preservation, 1t is
hardly to be doubted that they will
elect Bryan and Kern iii spite of the
frantic opposition of misguided Repub-
lican newspapers and purblind Republi-
can campaigners who are unwittingly
trying to act as the advance agents of
Calamity.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-09-07
Pays Glowing Tribute to
William Jennings Bryan

tisan, and the affection of the masses
for Blaine was largely confined to the
ranks of his own party. Lincoln was
not revered In his lifetime. In two
thirds of this great country he was un-
popular after the assassin's bullet had
made him a national martyr. Clay had
patronage and represented wealth.
Blaine had patronage and represented
wealth; Lincoln had patronage, but he
stood for the lowly and the weak, al
though he was not clearly understood
until death removed the din and dust
of the fierce combat In which he was
the stern arbiter.
But how different with Bryan! An
humble citizen now, on little farm IN
Nebraska, with no income except that
of a platform speaker, and not as much
even as a clerkship to bestow, he sits
on his porch today, influencing the
course of more than seven millions OF
voters and shaping the destiny of the
greatest republic the world has ever
known. 1t is not bossisn; 1t is leader
ship-the highest, broadest, most COM
prehensive leadership ever known In
the politics of nations. Twice defeated
for the presidency. his name Is upon
more human lips at this hour than any
leader living or dead. Mothers conse-
crate their duty by pointing their sons
to Bryan; old men, whitened In the sea-
sons of struggle, and boys just girding
on their armor, pronounce the name OF
BRYAN as the most tllustrious ana
powerful champion OF human liberty.
WHY is 1t? We don't know. History
furnishes no explanation. Precedents
are looked up in vain. The past brings
nothing to account for the present In
the matter of the popular belief IN
Rrvan.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-09-07

IN HERE is no question that the
United States forest service is
h the most abhorred and hated In
stitution which has been connected
with our government since the days
when United States marshals were set
TO hunting fugitive slaves, way back IN
the f1frfes. It's enemies, however, are
onlv those who desire to convert the
nrblic property to their private use'
and their undisguised hatred Is the
best evidence in the world that the
forest service is doing its duty. NO
conimendation, however strong, which
ordinary citizens can bestow upon the
service can be half SO encouraging ana
comforting to its officials as the ma
lignant attacks of such enemies as the
service has.
One of the malignants who happens
to have a voice in our national legis-
lature attacked the service in speech
in which he virtually declared the for
est guards and rangers to be band
Of n1urderous ruffians who were con-
tinually setting upon inoffensive citi-
zens. and that one citizen had been
actually shot because he would not
give way to a ranger. Upon investi-
cation the facts in this one concrete
case were found to be that when citi-
zen on the reserve refused to obey
orders. presumably lawful, the ranger
did fire in the air as a warning, for
which he was promptly discharged
from the service-presumably for want
Los Angeles herald., 1908-09-07
United States Forest Service
LOUed for Enemies 1t Makes

of tact. He was a new man and all
toId was but seven days in the service.
IF was also alleged as a glaring abuse
fh+a the dulles of the service required
employees to "wear uniforms"
on investigation that proved not to
he the case. 1t should be required and
nrobably will be. 1t was also set forth
with great indignation that the service
ynaintained "costly steam yachts" for
the use and, solace of it's employees. The
facts are that in one or two forests
which include navigable lakes motor
launches are maintained as quick
and economical means of transporting
FIRE fighters and performing the regu-
lar patrol work of the forests.
That charges of that nature should
ha made on the floor of congress is
conclusive evidence that no real
abuses in the service could be found.
Thev will establish the service more
firmly than ever in the public regard.
THE days when public property can
pass in a wholesale way into private
possession are about over. The ma
lion is aroused to the conservation of
its remaining resources for the good
Of all and not for the benefit OF q
few. and all vicious attacks upon any
of the conserving agencies viii be re-
Qarded simply as evidence of the bad
character of those who made them.
Criticism leading to Improvement viii
be heaRtily welcomed by the service
itself.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-09-07
American Bar Association
Is Working for Square Deal

Offenders are permitted to escape de-
served punishment.
One of the present aims OF the
American Bar association is to abolish
these flimsy technicalities and establish
merit in their stead. There are rev
cases in the courts today that ara ac-
iudicated on their merits and If The
merit system in other words true JUS
tice. can be established, 1t will go
long way toward correcting these
abuses
Judge Taft recently said in an ad-
dress to the lawyers of Virginia that
# was next to impossible for poor
man to get justice in the courts OF thus
country. Especially is this true IN
civil cases.
One of the discouraging signs of the
times is the increased cost of litigation.
No poor plaintiff or disputant can with
stand the costly campaign of delay
which the rich corporation or individual
Is able to indulge in. The result IS
that the poor man rarely ever gets MS
iust dues when he is suing wealthy OF
Tenders against the law.
The administration of justice should
be as simple and speedy In this coun~
trv as II is in Europe. The technical
ities practiced in the United States
would not be tolerated for moment IN
the British courts, 1t mattered not
what the wealth or prestige or the OF
fender might be.
IT should be Just as easy for the poor
to get redress in this country as else
where and until they do 1t cannot be
said that we are enjoying the fruits OF
modern civilization.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-09-07

TN HE American Bar association is
meeting at Seattle In annual con-
- vention. From the reports that
come from the metropolis of the north
west the sessions are destined to be the
most important that have yet been
held by that distinguished body.
Fortunately for the longevity and
usefulness of the association it is gov
erned by able and conscientious men.
It's officers are among the leaders OF
the bar in this country, and they ap-
pear to be sincere in their efforts to
eliminate some of the vicious practices
that have. crept into the judicial pro-
cedure of our courts. II they can ac-
complish their purpose they will not
have labored in vain.
At different times in these columns
we have pointed out that a system or
judicial practice has developed in CIVIL
and criminal courts which amounts TO
almost NAL ractice.
A bulwark of technicalities Tor the
protection of those who have money 10
spend on smart attorneys has peen
constructed by shrewd lawyers. rms
bulWark makes the courts poWerlesS
against evil. One of the worst ana
most indefensive OF these is the frltter-
ing away of time by shyster lawyers
while the business of the courts pies
up at an alarmingly rapid date ana
the pockets of the poorer clients grow
lean and empty, says the San Fran
cisco Globe.
Frequently through the manipuia-
ton of technicalities big and wealthy
Los Angeles herald., 1908-09-07
SOCIAL BETTERMENT

CHARITIES AND THE COMMONS,
which is announced as weekly
~ journal of philanthropy and social
advance" asks the cooperation of
every editorial office in the United
States in getting the facts of social
conditions before people, and should
have the support of every editorial
office. But we know it won't. Repub-
lican papers cannot acknowledge that
social conditions in the United States
are not excellent, or rapidly being re-
stored to a condition of excellence
which was interrupted temporarily by
"a little flurry!"
We may be glad the human imagina-
tion has its limitations. If all of us
could realize the sufferings and priva-
tions of many poor people in the east,
if we could, as it were, suffer with
the sufferers, the national health would
not be very good But we have agreed
among ourselves to perpetuate
pleasant little misunderstanding delu-
sion that we are not our brothers
keeper. We have sharply defined ideas
as to where our responsibility ceases.
We even have a crisp saying, which
expresses with precision the prevalent
belief as to responsibility. 1t is, "Out
of sight, out of mind" OF course there
is nothing logical about it, but where
is the logic in a condition which makes
us excuse ourselves for the deprivation
of many of our fellow citizens on the
ground that we think we have had
nothing to do with that deprivation?
Here is a somewhat strong thought.
but after it has been assimilated 1t al
ways helps the patient: There Is not
a human being who does not influence
to some extent other human beings;
there is not I human being who does
not leave on the world his impress for
good or evil. There is not human
being without influence; there Is not a
human being who is not influenced in
turn by an amazingly large number of
human beings, dead as well as alive,
for certain dead men, speaking from
the pages of books, have more influence
than many or most living men. Every
individual is interested in every other
individual. He cannot get away from
his responsibility to all mankind, in
the mass, any more than he can get
away from the influences which, COM
ing from mankind, in the mass, affect
him.
If we bear this in mind 1t will be
easier to understand the vital i'm
portance of the social betterment move
ment, and take an active interest in 1t
and an active part in it.