The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-27

vhich he and his successors carried out.
Now they and their like r gone, and
though the Creeks. tho ArmenianA the
English and the Scotch still have their
churches, I do not suppose there 10 q
mosque In all Leghorn.
DO not speak very confidently. be-
cause my researches In that sort were
not exhaustive. ] indeed visited the
cathedral, not wholly because lingo
Jones had something to do In planning
L. but because I had formed the habit
Of visiting churches In Rome. and I me-
ohanically went into one wherever /
Jaw it. Generally speaking. I think that
they were rather bare In painting or
sculpture. but they were such churches
AZ In America one would 60 a long way
TO see and think oneself well rewarded
by their objects OF interest. ! do not
know what defence TO offer for not having
visited the galleries OF the Museo Civico.
where by actual count In the guidebook
I missed 100 works Of art. though just
bow many masterpieces I am not able
10 say; probably n out OF every ten
was a masterpiece. But IL I did not
much resort to the churches and galleries
In Leghorn 1 roamed gladly through Its
pleasant streets and squares, and by
the shores Of tho canals which once gave
II the name Of New Venice and which
still invite the smaller shipping up among
Its houses in right Venetian fashion. The
streets Of Leghorn are not 90 straight as
they are long. but most are very straight
and the others are curved rather than
crooked. The longest and straightest were
streets Of low dwelling houses. uncommon
In Italian towns, where each family lived
under its own roof with a little garden
behind and a respective entrance. as peo
pie still mostly do In our towns. From the
force Of the mid-April sun in these streets
! realized what they might be in sum-
mer, and II I lived In Leghorn I would
rather live on the sea front In n Of the
comfortable. square. stone villas which
border 1t. But everywhere Leghorn
seemed q pleasant place 10 1--we. and pom
venient with lively shops and cafes
and trans and open spaces and statues
and monuments In them. The city. I
understood. il Of somewhat radical poll
tics. tending from clericaiism to social
ism; and. like every other Italian city.
" u luh W pau "a biOiiuiiiOhtos AhCI
IL q Victor Emmanuel on horseback.
plump and squat. but heroic Is always.
and a Garibaldi struggling In vain for
beauty In his poncho and his round fat
cap; there IL Q Mazzini. there is a Cavour.
and above all there is a Guerrazzi, no
great thing as 10 the seated figure. but
most interesting. most touching in two
Of the basreliefs below. One represents
him p~roclaiming the provisional govern
ment at Florence in 1s4o. after the expul-
sion OF the grand duke. where the fact
Is studied. with the wonderful realism Of
the Italians. in all its incidents and the
costumes Of the thronging spectators.
Tho sculptor has hesitated at no top
hat or open umbrella, there are barefooted
boys and bareheaded young girls. as
well as bearded elders; II my memory
serves, the scene Is not without a dog or
two. But 1t Is the other relief which is
% simply and 30 deeply afeoting-the
interior Of a narrow cell with one chair
and q rude table, at which the patriot
novelist wrote his greatest work, THE
Siege Of Florence, and with him standing
little way from 1t. In spite of the small
space and the almost vacant stage the
scene is fun Of most moving drama and
records a whole Italian epoch now happily
past forever.
These are modern sculptures, and they
scarcely contest the palm with the monu-
ment Of the four galley slaves and the
Medicean grand duke. In another piazza
two princes Of the Lorrainese family. IL
! remember rightly. face each other over
its oblone-classic motives. with the
figures much undraped, and one Of them
sinsulariy impressive from the mutton
chop whiskers which m~odernized him.
There are several theatres. and among
them a Goldoni theatre. as there should
be in q city where the sweet old play
wright sojourned for a time and has
placed the action Of his famous comedy,
La Locandiera-' But I was told that
the local theatres were not so much fire.
quented by polite people. especially for
opera. as the theatre in Pisa. which II
poorer is prouder in it's society than it's
old time vassal by the sea and attracts
the fashion Of Leghorn In the season
As Pisa has ceased to be the colony of
literary English IL once was. In the time
OF Byron and Hunt and Shelley. to name
no others, 80 Leghorn has ceased to be
the mercantile colony Of former days.
It has still q great deal Of commerce with
England, but this is no longer carried
on by resident merchants. though here
and there an English name fingers In the
style Of a business house; and the dis
tinctive qualities Of both colonies are
united in the author Of q charming book
who fills the post Of British Consul ct
Leghorn, His Tuscan Towns must
not be confused with another book
called Tuscan Cities" though II the
traveller chooses to carry both with him
about Tuscany I will not say that he
could do better. In Tuscan Cities
there is nothing about Leghsrn. l believe.
but in Tuscan Towns there Is a spe-
cially delightful chapter about the place.
Its people. language and customs which
can commend to the reader as the best
corrective OF the errors I must have been
constantly falling into hee.
1t was In company no less enviable
than this authors that l revisited the
port on a gray Sunday afternoon OF my
stay. and then for the first time visited
the ancient Notifications which began
to be in the time Of the Countess Matilde
and internationally increased under the
rule Of the Pisan. Genoese. and Flor
entine republics, until the Medicean grand
dukes ampli6ed them in almoet the pro-