davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1908-01-21
DENIES REORGANIZATION PLAN.

Regarding report that he had prepared a plan
reorganization of the surface lines in Manhat-
tan and The Bronx. Paul ID. Cravath said last
night: II have not proposed even drafted a
plan for reorganization of the streetcar systems
OF this city or for any part OF those systems"
New-York tribune., 1908-01-21
LORD CURZON IN UPPER HOUSE.
Elected to Fill Vacancy Among Representa-
tive Peers Of Ireland

Dublin Jan. 20-I.ord Curzon of Kedleston, for
r,er Yiceroy Of India received a majority Of the
votes cast in the election to-day fill the vacan-
cy among the representative peers Of ireland
caused by the death last November of Lord Kill
maine
New-York tribune., 1908-01-21
here transmitting the following message from the
Brazilian Secretary Of State.

To the Brazilian Ambassador:
The American Ambassador communicated
yesterday Secretary Roots telegram. beg your
eHcellency 10 manifest to Mr.. Root my thanks for
the friendly words that Ambassador Dudley trans
mltted TO me The popular demonstrations of sym
pS-uy which the American sailors recev-
ING, as cordial and spontaneous those which
secretary Root received in 1905, show the cOnstancy
ana the unchangeableness Of the old Brazilian
friendship toward the United States OF America,
ana also that We remember with gratefuness all
the klndlinesS Of President Roosevelt OF himself
and Of the American navy toward our navy months
ago In Norfolk and Washington ! wish you 10
recommend me most particularly TO Mr Root and
his family. RIO BRANCO.
New-York tribune., 1908-01-21
DEsTRoYERs GOING TO eUENos AYREs

Washington. Jan. 20.-Admrai Evans in dis
patch 20 Ihe Navy Department from Rio de Ja-
mere to-day suggests that the torpedo fota visit
BEenos Ayres L was first feared that visit TO the
Argentine capital would possible because the
uestroyers had fallen several days behind in their
Itinerary. aad Admiral Evans had requested the
privilege of having the destroyers accompany his
sslps direct 10 Sandy Point from Rio de Janeiro
Ia the dispatch to-day, however. he indicated his
intention OF starting them at once for Buenos
AVres where they will remain for perhaps not
more than q day. repienish their coal supplies
end then proceed 10 ioin the battleshirE.
New-York tribune., 1908-01-21

THANKS FROM BARON RIO sRANCO.
Washington. Jan. Zo.-T- state Department to-
day received note from the Brazilian Ambassador
The sun., 1908-06-21

green, black or a rather dark blue; and some
good coats of this same severe character
are of gray tussor in medium tone with
black collar and cuff facing.
Less demure, though equally severe in
cut and finish, are smart coats of straw
berry. raspberry, dull rose or medium blue
tussor, with black collars. cuffs, scarfs
and possibly buttons for relief.
All these colors are used too in tailored
coats of linen. One sketched here. for e1-
ample was of cool medium shade of green
tho green that is particularly charming
in linen. The cut the pockets the very
heavy white pearl buttons and the black
collar. cuffs and scarf all helped TO make
this plain coat one Of the most knowing
things of the kind We have seen. and though
the price Of the coat was high because of
tho name Of a famous maker, which was
affixed to the model. any good tailor ought
to be able to turn out q copy.
Such coats, Of course, are but for hot
weather motoring and will not stand the
wear and tear without frequent cleaning.
The most practical cool material for the
motor coat ID alpaca, brilliantine. mohair.
q material shown In many grades and called
by many names. This does not make 90
smart O coat as tussdr, but 1t will shake OF
the dust more readily. soil lass easily. keep
It's shape better, and II well tailored looks
yuT wsll, For the wpzaan,of modest dEces
The sun., 1908-06-21

allowance 1t is decidedly the best choice
for hot weather motoring.
A lightweight. cool coat will do service
for all ordinary summer motoring. and
even II one has a coat of mohair or tussor
warmer coat is desirable in addition.
Among the prettiest OF these wool coats
light in weight and summery In look are the
black and white checks. from shepherds 9
check to large black check designs. A
contrasting collar OF red, green. blue or
light brown touched with black and per-
haps a very little black braiding. black
scarf and black buttons make one OF these
checked coats extremely attractive. and
the woman who does not own q car and
only motors occasionally may be able to
make one OF these coats do for motoring
when a waterproof Is not needed.
Some Of the waterproof fabrics which
it In asserted are free from rubber are
made up into good looking coats and come
in excellent colorings. The imported model
reproduced here was Of checked water
proof material. in two shades OF beige and
The sun., 1908-06-21

evening froclss arefhoreasingly picturesque;
but for the students Of the modes nothing
Ia the seasons fads and fancies is more in
teresting than the fashionable coat in its
latest phases.
Never was there 30 bewildering variety
known In coatdom. Each day launches
new models, every letter from Paris brings
word of new vagaries. One can hardly
divide these coats into groups.
Broadly speaking. they do vary in their
avowed purposes but the classes 30 over
lap thati Ia hard to tell where one class ends
and smother begins. The practical motor
loat merges into the less severe dust coat;
the dust coat takes unto itself one grace
and another until IL becomes 30 costly and
ornamental that only the most extravagant
Of women could associate the idea OF dust
With 1t without a shudder. Finally 1t
merges into the summer evening coat.
Z 1t IN hard TO. tell where the short coat
ends and the long coat begins All langths
are In fashion The bolero has died once
moraa onoe more has risen phoenixlike
tfrom its, eahes. The Directories the leose
paletot. the Eton resembling an abbreviated
pony coat, the sleeveless cbasuble--t these
and host6s others are In the heid, Il x, 1
J First Of ali let us considcr eofne Of the
lnfest and most chic of tho Pariaian coat
fsncies. One hardly Knows where tobexin,
but the three sketches q the central group
The sun., 1908-06-21

lowered material selected. Some Of the
stuffs are wonderfully beautiful and follow
closely the designs of the beautiful old
printed cottons and linens. but unfortu-
nately the. most desirable Of these have
been picked up early by the fashionable
dressmalxers and tailors, and 1t Is not easy
to find in the shops at any price just what
one wants.
The cretonne coat OF the large cut was a
successful model turned out by Partisan
maker and imported by Broadway house
In design and color the material was ex-
quisite, soft. dull, a trife yellowed. as though
by age. The cut. though simple. was good.
and the original note OF the model con-
sisted in the green and ecru buttons and
ornaments, made by setting large French
knots Of green silk very thickly upon an
ecru ground. with green ia ffeta to match
introduced elsewhere in loops. &c.
Black velvet or black satin Is used lightly
upon majority Of the cretonne models.
and upon some OF the fancier models o
plain toned linen or silk material is en-
ployed for waistooets, revers, &o. Irish lace
also is sometimes sparingly applied. but
the palmer coats are In better style, their
effectiveness being left to their lines and
their charming colorifIks.
The mania for Greek draperies. Tanagra
e1fects, &o., has extended into the realm
H the coats, and various wonderfully
The sun., 1908-06-21

draped cloaks are worn by Parisians-
draped coats not 80 much on the order of
the burnous and kindred models popular
during recent seasons as upon tho lines Of
the toga. tunic, &c. The cloak illustrated
here is a representative specimen OF this
GLASS and would Of course demand a ma
terial exceedingly supple and light Of
weight-the finest chiffon broadcloth. lib
erty satin. crepe or other soft material.
Moreover. such draperies require genuine
artistic skill in the, designer and maker.
for q single false line would ruin their eff
feet. On a slender woman such a cloak
in some Of the beautiful. modsh colorings
and absolutely untrimmed save for some
ing on the shoulder is q picturesque gar
ment that ould delight the eye Of anartist.
We saw at Sherry's one evening last week
a cloak very similar to the model of the
sketch, in a chiffon broadcloth. that W as Of
a soft. dull rose-a rose that seemed to have
a dash Of gray through it like bloom.
The cloak was untrimmed with the excep-
ton Of a rather wide binding Of black lib
erty. and there was a big ornament and
pendants. all made Of black liberty. on
the shoulder.
Less Greek in feeling but very graceful
and Partisan are the cloaks of the sort
pictured in another Of the group composing
the large sketch. This cloak. though very
original, need not present discouraging
difficulties to a dressmaker. provided the
material chosen is supple enough to fall
readily into graceful folds.
The sun., 1908-06-21

furnish inspiration and represent certain
ultra nodish types.
OF the cretonne coat We have often
spoken. II has reached this side Of the
water with rush and is being exploited
10 a degree that threatens it's cachet, yet
some most deleotable models in such ma
terials are shown in high class shops. The
most attractive Of these models are i'm
ported, but the ideas Of the cretonne coat.
parasol and hat trimmings are 30 easily
copied that cheap limitations Of the smart
models are already plentiful.
As matter Of fact only the woman who
can afford to take up a fashion fad and
drop 1t quickly should indulge in the flow
cred coat The garment at its best is
charming for wear with sheer summer
frocks. but one is sure 10 tire readily of 80
pronounced mode, and the coat IL wern
much soon becomes tireeome both to the
wearer and observer.
Conspicuous dress is admissible only
when the conspicuous costume is perfect
in detail and need not be often worn. There
are many fastidious women who will take
issue with this statement and insist that
conspicuous dress is never in supremely
good taste, and perhaps that is true; but
even the tolerant will concede the truth
of our original proposition.
Where a cretonns coat is worn one should
make sure that it possesses some original
features in cut or detail which set 1t apart
from the multitude Of cheap limitations,
and much depends upon the design, color
ing and quality Of the cretonne or other
The sun., 1908-06-21

struction. This plain little bolero, widely
open In front. cut or straight just beneath
the bust line and finished with two short
square tails in the back. 10 10 be made up
in silk Of gay color-Empire green. French
rose, Copenhagen blue, cerise. chaudron,
Ac--toned down by black liberty revers.
buttons. sleeve finish and coattail lining,
and is for wear over short waist lingerie
frocks or any sheer summer frooks w.-a-.
coloring VIII permit the association.
Coats much like this model in shape are
made, too. in the popular cretonne and in
lowered silks OF designs resembling those
Of the cretonnes. The black details are
retained upon these lowered coats. and the
little garments are charming over cling
ing Empire froclk Of white muslin. with .
parasol and perhaps hat trimming match
ing the coat.
The Empire bolero 10 made UP. too. in one
tone linen. and this linen coat is worn by
the Parisian not only over tub frocks. but
with frocks of lightweight wool as well.
For instance. a trim fitted bolero OF blue
lken reaching just below q slightly short
ened waist line. buttoning double breasted
and trimmed In bands and buttons OF the
linen, accompanied skirt Of blue and
white block check which was trimmed at
the bottom by a band of the blue linen.
This same coat was intended for wear not
only with the wool skirt but with tub frocks
OF white or blue and white
Short coats Of white pique. handsomely
braided in soutache or embroidered, are for
wear over summer muslins, and there are
delectable short coats Of white silk or cloth
embroidered all over in some color such as
Empire green and with short double
breasted waistcoats and scarf girdles OF
liberty in the color Of the embroidery.
The lace coat and the coat of embroidered
net follow the accepted lines and are to be
had in multitude Of shapes.
OF the picturesque evening cloaks and
capes We have already had much to say.
and they may be left out OF this story, but
they all grow lovelier day by day. it seems;
and all. from the inexpensive cape Of chiffon
broadcloth or liberty to the most exquisite
Of hand painted silk mousselne and lace,
haxe an artistic quality never before seen
in the wraps OF this generation.
The sun., 1908-06-21

embroidered, and would be ineffective
without such embroidery, any woman
should be able to do this braiding without
great effort after the material has been
stamped carefully. The construction OF
the drapery is simple, too, and though a
metal or jewelled buckle may be used on
the shoulder, buckle covered with the
tussor Of which the cloak was made was
used upon the original model The braid
ing at the bottom is not obligatory, though
il adds considerably to the smartness OF
the coat.
Many OF the big draped cloaks in color
are lined with black liberty. which shows
only where the folds flow back or fall in
jabot lines.
A cloak of taupe tussor shown among
the small pictures had this lining Of black
satin, which was slightly in evidence in the
odd draped revers and where the coat fronts
fell open. Egyptian embroidery trimmed
cuffs and collar and both buttons and corde-
liere were of black and gold with touches
Of turquoise.
Tussor is one OF the most popular mate
rials for the modish dust cloak and even for
mantles which are not likely to be greatly
exposed TO dust, Chic yet practical motor
coats are made up in the heavier weights
Of this material and in all grades Of sever
ity Of line.
Strictly. tailored coats. loose. straight,
Of cut or seams to distinguish them, are
good in natural tone tussor, with plain collar
and cuff facings Of tobacco brown. empire
The sun., 1908-06-21

colored aoutache 10 the trimming most fre-
qucntly seen. Soutache braiding is. In
greater or less quantities. a highly favored
coat trimming, and loose coats. short or
long are sometimes made OF silk nous
seline. entirely covered with design In
soutache.
One beautiful paletot Of this sort was OF
black silk mousseiine, braided all over In
fine white soutache and bordered by band
Of white broadeloth soutached in white.
This coat was q short wasted cutaway
whose fronts did not meet, and the coat
was held in place by n soft girdle OF black
liberty. which passed under the white cloth
borders on tho fronts ssnd was held in the
middle front just below the bust by
jewelled buckle
Other Directoire coats have scarf girdles
Of liberty drawn around Niem at the short
waist line knotting at the left side and
falling in long sash ends weighted by fringe
or tassels.
Among the Empire and Directoire coats
the absurd little boleros and short coats
are particularly interesting. and Paris has
taken them up with enthusiasm. Naturally
they require frock entirely in harmony
with them, and not every one can look well
In the freakish little garments; but upon the
right woman they have most piquant poss-
bilities, and the designers are displaying
wonderful fertility OF invention In connec-
ton with these little coats.
Perhaps it would be more just to say that
they are showing great skill in adaptation.
for the new models copy quite accurately
many features OF old time Empire modes.
Ono particularly delightful coat in change
able green and gray glace taffeta fitted
smoothly over chest and bust. fastening
with tiny straps Of soutache held at each
end by minute passementerie button.
Just below the bust the fronts sioped sharply
away to short coattails opened in three
The sun., 1908-06-21

many novelties, all more spectacular than
the looser long coats of which We have been
speaking. but the Directoire modes are
reserved rather more for costume coats
than for separate coats- Yet exceptions to
this ruling are many especially in the silk
or satin coats Of black or color.
The black satin coat has been much
abused and consequently discredited. but
as has been noted before in these columns
very smart cool coats are made up In q
rather dull finish, extremely supple and
lightweight satin, which is manufactured
In double width. The best Of these black
coats are self trimmed with buttons covered
with the satin. satin covered cording and
satin cord ornaments entering into tho
trimming scheme,
For the fantastic little separate GOATS In
color which are worn with white or neutral
linad skirtsv silk ID used more often than
satin. and elaborate hand bEaidirg n sesf-
The sun., 1908-06-21
MAGNEsIA PRESERVES TEETH.
Some Useful Hints for Protecting Enamel
and Preventing Decay.
From Health.

From Health.
One who has tried thS-experiment says
that IL the teeth are thoroughly brushed
at night the last thing before retiring and
a piece Of magnesia the size of a fllbert
taken into the mouth and chewed so as to
bring 1t in contact with all of the teeth at all
points 1t will prove Of great advantage.
The magnesia not only corrects the acidity
Of the mouth. but forms by some chemical I
action not fully understood a coating over
the enamel, which remains overnight an,'
protects the teeth from any injury from the
stomach acids. 1t also assists in preventir
the recession of the gums. which is such ,
unpleasant trouble.
Brushing the teeth with six part sofutio
of dioxide of hydrogen is extremely adva :
tageous. few drops OF myrrh used ds
to brush the teeth is an old and fayorite &C. .
rective of bad breath and decay.
The sun., 1908-06-21

places up to the Empire waist line.
Each of the' three sections was rounded
at the bottom, like a long, slender U, and
along each Of Che three openings were set
soutache straps held by buttons, The long.
close sleeves hadsimilar straps and buttons
along the outside seams throughout their
full length.
With this coat. whose tails reached only
to q point just below the curve OF the hip,
was worn an Empire robe Of gray tussor,
whose olinging short wasted skirt was
untrimmed. and a high crowned. egret
trimmed gray hat.
Another type Of Empire bolero is illus
trated in one Of theouts, and though hardly
80 chic as the one just described is very
effective and by no means difficult Of con-
The sun., 1908-06-21
COATS TO THE FORE
A. Bewifdering Variety IN the
eo Summer Wraps.
POPULARITY OF cREToNNE
Coats, Parasols and Hats All Ex-
hibit This Material.

Mania for Greek Effects Seen In the Sea.
sons wraps-EIaborate Dust CiOaks OF
t,, -
X Tussor-Tanored Goats OF IInen-Fan-
ctfui Fashions OF the Directoire Order
..--gIttle BoIeros and Short Coats Called
Interesting but ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS in
Empire styie-ArtistIc Evening Cioaks.
The new sheath skirts in more or less
radical form are attracting much attention
and comment. and the new millinery Is
moro and more fascinating. and the new
The sun., 1908-06-21

whose trimming consists entirely Of null
itudinous little buttons and imitation but
tonholes OF silk and indeed. buttons OF one
sort or another play big part in the trim
ming Of most Of the coats.
With their attendant simulated button
holes they may be set along the full length
OF straight long fronts, along open sides.
up the outside seams of sleeves, along the
openings in the back of the coat skirt, on
the pockets. Big buttons often emphasize
the shortened waist line in the backs Of the
Directoire and Empire coats and ornament
the fronts Of the cutaway coats. The but
ton covered with cloth. silk. liberty or
other material Is, however. the fad Of the
hour, and comparatively few Of the metal
and jewelled buttons are used.
In fanciful Directoire coats there are
Los Angeles herald., 1908-10-14
TRAINING AT
SANTA MONICA
HIGH SCHOOL STUDENTS TO
MEET ACADEMY TEAM
NO DEFINITE DATE SET FOR
GAME
~
Coach Townsend Is Pleased Over the
Fact That He Has Plenty
of Good Mate
rspsciaIH to The Herald. ]


SANTA MONICA, Oct. 13.-The santa
Monica high school eleven Is being put
through a severe course of training
preparatory to the game with the
Santa Monica Military academy, which
will be pulled off the 18th or 21st of
this month. No definite decision mas
been reached as both teams may re-
uire more time to get In line.
Il. ]. Townsend has undertaken the
office of coach and Is developing
speedy lot of youngsters, who work to-
gether and use their heads to great ad-
vantage. ,
The only veteran on the team Is
Dobbins, who has had two seasons
experience. being member of the
crack team of two years ago, Whlcn
defeated every team that 1t met. Dop-
bins will hold down the position OF full
back in the present team. He is a
heavy man, a good tackle and hlts the
line like cannon ball, and also has
plnty of speed to carry him around
obstacles.
Among the new men is Mann, who
will hold down. left half, and also Is
captain of the team. Daglish will play
opposite Mann and the pair make
good combination, which will go rar
toward the making of winning team
Harrison has all - the qualities of
veteran quarter, handling his team IKE
a. general, is a good punt, catches well
and never gets ratified. Morehead will
sub in Harrison's place should 1t be
necessary. =,
Big, husky 4auAn will loom up well
at center, and although this Is his first
season he comes from football Stock
being a brother of the u. S. G. player.
He passes well and is clear headed at
all times.
Three candidates are out for the po-
sition of guard. Haskell is expected
to AXE good. Hall and Jewett afso
are running neck and neck for the po-
sition.
A promising trio are trying for
tackle, and it is hard to say which or
them will fill the positions, Wurtz,
Weld and Jackson.
Quite a contest has developed in the
scramble to play end, no less than six
youngsters all so evenly matched that
the coach is having hard time to
make a choice. Young, Beach, Stevens,
Berkeley, Williams and Eager are all
strong players and whichever wins out
will be a credit to the team.
Other boys who are faithfully taking
their share of the hard knocks inciden-
tai to training are Pullin and Riley
who are making a strong pull for CEN
| ter, and Thurston, who shows VI
equally we'll at hal or full back.
The average weight of the team II
about 140 pounds, and while rather
light, will give the academy boys
| run for their money.