Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-03-06
SPRINe FASHIONS FOR MEN
FOREIGN SELECTIONS BASED
UPON AMERICAN TASTES.
Paris Contributing, With the Wom-
anish Frills Eliminated-Purple
at Its Height.

OF men S dress. 1t is customary now
adays for the smart shops to present their
new offerings in cravats shirtings and
other accessories in January in order that
the ever-increasng element who go abroad
for while before establishing themselves
at country house or seashore may have
their needs supplied I'm ample time. or
course. ii is just as true as in the past
that the mode has its inception among
men OF means and refined taste. and that
until that set has asserted itself one has
to be guided in forecast by recent prefer
ences. in the main. However, the prod
ucts of the high-class shops cannot. and
should not. be ignored in forming juds-
ment. The men who visit LONDON and
Paris for new creations have a mighty ac-
curate knowledge of our likes and dis
likes and it is only occasionally that they
miscalculate.
French Fancies.
I mention Paris because French fancies
are gaining a strong hold on American
men. We modify them to accord with our
more virile conception of clothes for the
man. and We are trying to satisfy our
selves that we can appropriate and emu
late and at the same time reject the traces
of effeminacy So what the foremost shops
are now putting view may be regard
ed as significant of the probable trend
of things. These exhibits fulfil the proph-
ecieS of an impending vogue of bright
err colors in the accessories. The most
prominent fact in connection with co'ors
is the large percentage of purple effects
appearing from the deep plum shade 10
the delicate lavender These hues are in
combinations that would not make pleas
ing harmony but for the skill evidenced
in the distribution and proportion OF the
coors. There are puppies in the new
suitings of the best tailors. and puppies
in the new shirtings. cravats and half
hose being presented to their favored pa
irons by the foremost retail shops. Green
and brown, which chime capitally with
purple. are still much i'm evidence. The
latter had its inning year ago ana
green and olives succeeded. Now they
are gradually giving place to purple:
which will have a more lasting vogue IL
il is confined to mixed treatments. for the
reason that purple alone is rather too
bold to appeal to any appreciate number
of men.
With the perfection of the process or
rendering fabrics showerproof and at
the same time retaining their natural
qualities of surface and texture. rain
coats have become not only acceptable
but essential to the complete wardrobe.
Popularity they are serving as fair as
we'll as foul weather garment. and the
manufacturers are wise enough to see
that they can dispose OF them the more
readily on large scale when In cut anu
contour as well as cloth and color they
are made to resemble the ordinary light
weight overcoat. On the other hand. the
men who have all their clothes tailored
and the shops that have an aff1uent eli
entee are choosing models that ara
scarcely suited to other use than as a
protection against the elements. This il
accomplished by few details suggestive
of cloudy skies.
Raincoats.
new design in raincoats. is gaining
favor among well-dressed men. 1t is
ample in shoulder. body and sleeves. as
1t should be for the desired degree OF
comfort In length it extends half way
between the knees and the ankles. while
the outline, by means of greater fullness
toward the bottom. forms a modified bell
shape. Four features of Its construction
are worthy of specific comment. There fS
a double collar which Is much similar
in outline to the smart fold linen collar
of the day. with the front edges meet
ing and slightly rounded at the bottom.
This is much preferable to a straight
standing collar of one thickness OF cloth
as the top edge is less liable to chafe the
neck Moreover. the front of the coat Is
so cut at the top that when the weather
merely threatens II may be opened to
give the effect of lapels. Then the. side
seams extend over the shoulder and in a
straight line down the front and back.
being a pleat that is stitched down to
the garment. The pockets at the sides
are under this pleat. Quite noteworthy
innovation Is seen in the cuffs which are
made separate from the sleeves and in
serted under them with lap-over. This
construction has appeared OF late on
lounge suits. but I think is particularly
suited to the raincoat If one desires the
double-cuff effect. Plaids are notably
smart if among the patterns. and the ia
vored shades are brown and green mix
lures, the shades being quite conspicuous.
Waterproof Derbies.
For the man who wants a complete
raiuy-day outfit without any incum-
brances there are waterproof derbies and
soft hats that do not differ in appearance
from the ordinary product and give as
good service Trousers may be had
.proofed" from the knees down, but they
appeal primarily to men who are much
out of doors. In gloves reindeer skin Is
not adversely affected by water. In fact.
one will find Ii beneficial when they be
come soiled to immerse them and apply
soap briskly Just as in cleansing the
hands. Double-soled boots are SO familiar
through retail announcements that no one
ed b. told of their merits. but 1t Is
to note that they are not
noticeably heavier than tho ordinary KIND,
of thicker soles in respect to prot sction
when the. walks are cold or wet. With
greater warmth they impart more COM
fort.
About the newest radical departure in
custom products is a so-called sack
frock.' the name of which indicates its
styIe. This garment Is cut away from the.
lower button in front very sharply. after
the manner of a walking coat, while the
hack has the deep center vent below
the waist-line and the seams on either
side of it which characterize the frock
coat AS novelty it shows commendable
ingenuity. but as a hybrid it is not call
culated to make strong appeal.
Cravats.
C.ravats are unusually bold in coloring.
There is no sign. yet, of return 10
wide forms which were in
vogue two years ago, and doubtless the
moderate dimensions will prevail. In
fact. it is certain they will. while the pref
erence for the c,ose-front fold collar con-
tiuues. Among the college set the IA
yored four-in- hand does not exceed an
inch In width. When ii is less the cravat
looks skinny and whatever beauty OF de-
sign II possesses is lost. The folded-ln
fourth hand maintains its place. 1t is
shoulder. Puppies are
specially liked. with browns and green's
running close for second choice
Latterlv there has been talk or a revival
of the stock Such development Is un-
thinkable so far as town wear among
men of discernment is concerned. The
stock feu from grace when it was taken
nm h, the crowd and abused. For rid
- -, &c II now in good standing. So