New-York tribune., 1908-12-13

tainiy, your coffee bfn would Be doubled ssvs--a
times over. but your enjoyment OF the drink would
WELL nerves." and his glance fingered sadly whsrw
the CUP his shaking hand beat a sharp tattoo o.
It's saucer-"let leave nerves out OF the discus-
sion-" Then he summoned thu head waiter. held
short conversation with him In Spanish, and
finally Induced that somewhat surprised worthy -
escort US to the cocina in the and prepars a
fresh tank of coffee for my edihcation-
The chef desired II particularly explained thas
coffee generally used in Brazil. not roasted
to the crispness OF that treated IN the Etates This
insures against any but the most delicate OF tia
navorins essences being extracted in the boiling.
and thus innparts sTnoothness to the beverage He
also called attention the fact that the bean "a
not ground fine, IS custom. practice thas
no connoisseur would tolerate on account OF
sulttnR muddness that never be entirely eIlrnI-
mated by the addition Of the white OF egg or
anything else. Each grain. therefore. %
cracked in not than six eight pieces By bs-
ing run through a wide set mill. and carefully
blown sifted TO get rid Of the dust and smaller
fra grnents. Thus the cook
But the main difference from orthOdox-oF
unorthodox-procedure lies in the quantity OF cOfea
used An extract OF beef advertisement defines II
product as "a bull IN teacup." With more
exazveration might this modern Brazilian necta-
be STYLED "a fazenda in a teacup-' The chef took
four utre measures Of the cracked coffee and added
1t to Just twice that quantity OF warm. but not
boiling, water in q shallow copper pan Here 10
allowed II TO soak for five minutes before turning
on his burners quickly bringing the water 70 4
boil so violent pieces OF the coffee were erups-
ed out upon the stove. This agitation followed
by minutes cooling a side table, AT the end
OF which time the chef added a half-dOZen drops
OF a pungent liquid from slender green vial TIA
nature OF which he refused TO divuige. but which
nv friend told neutralizing agent %
eliminate certain ''rawness'' irnDapabls 70 othss
than trained palates- Almost Immediately nickss
siphon was introduced just under the surface q
the liquid, and about six Htres OF It were drawn Oz
from the pan into a boiler the residue thrown
into a garbage can
COFFEE THE NATIONAL BEVERAGE
Nothing now remained but the boiling dowa
which took half hour and reduced the liquid a
volume OF three Htres and the consistency O1 tain
maple syrup In the boiler II inky black ard
quite Opaque TO the eye. but when poured showed
a stream amber bright and crystal clear Thus tie
four Htres OF coffee beans only made tlreeartsrz
OF that quantity OF liquid Coffee duly noting w16a
I Judged the moment psychologically proper fSs
telling my friend that II. according 70 his sugsss
ton. the American people made their co1ee as s
is made in Brazil, and stin continued 70 consuns
their wonted number OF cups, the American coEes
drinking public at the end Of a month would bs
negligible quantity and the Brazilian planters in
worse plight for market than before
In spite 0 the fact that ne IS practically raised
with the breath of the aromatic brown berry ever
In his nostrs coffee is hrst last and al the tina
with the Brazilian beverage. and caIes-ald
nothing coffee Is served in tneul-tazs Up
large a proportion of street frontage II Santos and
Rio as do saloons in Butte. Mont They run from
modest little kiOsks street corners and along
the waterfronts, where for 100 reis-aboul 3 cents
-laborers and dock hands get big UUgtuLs %
steamng comfort with hunks OF bread thrown IN.
to paIacos on the fashionable plazas. where the
elite listen 10 an orchestra and sip their fayorfts
drink from tiny china cups scarce bigger than
thimbIes.
If you are not Of a nature imperviOus % appeals
Of the appetite your first cup OF coffee in Santos
cafe will experience You enter and seat
yourself at one OF the hundred more tables scat
tered in refreshing aimlessness over the cool mar
BILE pavement HidtEn IN tangle OF shrubbsry
an orchestra is playing something with catch and
a sob in it that you you have heard Be-
fore IN this or some other incarnation. while
electric fan. deity placed in palm tree. sets a
fragrant dewy frOnd a-Quiver just above your head
Even the rattle OF the street has sunk TO heavy
hum and 70 your ear drOne OF peaceful
ness. LuIIed by veritable lotus eaters spell Of
content you are about 10 browse away and loose
your fancy a search for the original source q
the familiar elusive melody that IS sIl pulsns
somew here in the jungle OF the patio. w1en some
how you become aware that nlozO has ser ltts
cup before yOu which. from the pleasant OdOr and
the thin curl of smoke above ii. might be full %
a fragrant incense. You lift 1t 10 your lips and
feel that strange stir Of anticipation that uystsrt-
Gus foretaste, called by sentiHentalists the soul
Of the drink that you YOU ars
about to sip 4 and punssnt liquor. Nov it
touches your tongue and you are willing TO sweas
that capsule OF liquid life is dissolvlng in your
mouth In a moment more the fumes have risen
to your brain, q thrill Of energy goes t1gins
through your nerves. and you sCraighten Up with
the feeling that you are able 80 OUT and 0uiit
a railroad single-handed- II you are able 70 90 70
sleep IN the next twenty-four hours you deserve
gold medal