Gilpin observer., 1908-10-08

m spite of the fact that the tea gown
has always been looked upon as de-
signed primarily with view to COM
fort fashion demands to-day that IT
must be quite as perfect in design and
fit as any any other item of the ward
robe. and. moreover. that it shall be
the very last word of fashion, not to
mention the requirements of individual
becomingness and perfection of detail
There is no gown in the trousseau
which offers more possibilities in the
way of individual beauty and becom.
ingness than the tea gown. And as to
the richness and beauty of the material
employed not even the ball gown has
the advantage of superiority in this re-
spect. Nor is the idea of comfort
overlooked entirely in the smart tea
gown. although it has been said that
the first requisite is its claim to ef-
fectiveness, the second it's becoming
ness, and only at the last comes the
necessity for consideration of it's COM
fort. Notwithstanding this fact, the
the up-to-date tea gown is as COM
Portable garment as it was in the
days when comfort was the only con-
sideration, for with the development
of the mOdiste's art it has become
possible to secure easy fitting gowns
which are quite as perfect in fit as
though they held the wearer in an I'M
comfortable wise.
There are two styles of tea gowns
which must be included in the fashion
able outfit. One is the gown to be put
on for afternoon tea time, between the
outdoor costume and the dinner frock,
and the other is the gown suitable for
Informal evening wear. The afternoon
tea gown differs from that which is
used for informal evening wear prin-
.cipally in the way the neck Is finished.
The afternoon tea gown is usually
finished with high boned collar.
However. If rounded or u shaped
neck. slightly cut out, is more becom-
ing than the high collar it is used, but
it must still be cut quite high and be
more in the style of the collarless
yoke than of positive decolletage If
the afternoon tea gown is to be kept
distinct from that permissible for in
formal evening wear. The tea gown
suitable for evening wear is not only
cut quite low, with short sleeves of the
airiest of fabrics, which usually droop
off the shoulders, but it is also more
pronounced or effective in its style
than the afternoon tea gown and is
made of the costlest materials and
very deliberately.
In the matter of fineness, perfection
of fit and detail 1t has no advantage
over the afternoon tea gown, but it u.s.
ually produces a more elaborate effect.
Indeed, the difference between the aft.
ernoon and evening tea gowns
is rather difficult to determine
except in the length or depth
Of the decolletage, and the diff.
ference between the informal evening
tea gown and the dinner gown is
equally difficult and takes trained
observer to be absolutely sure of. All
Yea gowns. OF course, give the appear
ance of being only semi-fitted gar
nents. as the outer material Is used in
this fashion. whereas in reality they
are made up over the most carefully
titted Innings.
In order that a tea gown may be
effective one of the first requisites Is
this careful fitting of the lining. The
long lines and abnormally small hips.
which are the demands of this sea-
sons fashions. are Just as necessary
for the proper effect of tea gown
as for any other gown in the wardrobe.
The tea gown must not for moment
suggest even the most elaborate of
negliges. and that 1t may not do SO
while 1t still adheres to Its semi-fitting
marvellous skill in the
draping of the outside material as we'll
~ In the fitting Of the lining is re-
quired. The price Of one Of these
simple house gowns" Is therefore not
Lnconside cradle. especially when the
quantity Of hand work and handsome
,rfn,mir4 coatly lace. etc. In what it