Virginia citizen. (Irvington, Va.) 1891-1921, 1908-10-16

ioiSS 90 UeSSDtsiis Will ohuio pOPPmSs
make ones mouth water, and can be
purchased for ga song" The same is
true of all fruits. The juices or wine
from grapes cost less than water, and
are less dangerous to drink. Strange,
but insects are almost unknown here
'scusing flies and mosquitoes; and even
in south Italy these are no worse than
in New York.
Now, crossing the river Volturno.
we are in the rich fields of Cam
pania, the granary of the ancient
city that ruled the world. We are now
in southern Italy. having passed the
poverty stricken section lying just south
of Rome. or central Italy. The ancient
province of Campania is now densely
populated. 1t is the most fertile spot
in all Italy and Baedeker says zone of
the most fertile regions in Europe,
which is capable of yielding, in addition
to the produce of extensive plantations
of fruit-trees and vines, two crops of
grain and one Of hay every year"
Capua pronounced Carpia) is the chief
city here before reaching Naples. 1t
was at Capua that Spartacus and his
fellow gladiators struck down the Ro-
man soldiers and gained the mountain
passes, where for season they defied
the powers of Rome. Here are ruins
of the great ampitheatre, possibly next
in size to that of Rome. Here also is
the battlefield where Garibaldi defeated
Francis of Naples, and united the south
with the kingdom of Italy.
Castles of ruins and castles yet in
splendor-one almost equalling Versail-
les-pass in review as we whirl towards
Naples. Yonder looms Vesuvius to the
left of Naples, and presently we see
the city itself. Naples, of nearly a
million inhabitants, is the largest city
in Italy, and the Neapolitan is almost
as proud as the Roman. If left to his
character and habits, we soon found
that. he did not deserve rank above the
South Sea Islanders, but he has truly a
great city and great country surround
ing. One could well afford to take
passage from New York to Naples and
after seeing it (including Vesuvius and
Pompeii), could return home feeling
repaid for the trip. But the peo-
plel Well, they are 1.-THE limit" Never
did we believe any such folk lived under
civilized banner. ''See Naples and
die" is known injunction that carries
much with it. 1t intends to convey the
idea that no other place is so redolent
with attraction and interest, but one
may put another construction on this
that to stay among the Neapolitans long
will make you long for death. But We
will see the good as well as the bad in
this most interesting of countries.
We are at Napoli pronounced Nappol)
and ensconced at a good hotel, our
room overlooking the beautiful bay of
Naples. 1t is Sunday and everybody is
riding, driving, boating walking, eating
or working. 1t is the busiest city in
all Italy. The first of September has
ushered in cooler weather, and the peo-
pie display more energy. The themome-
ter never rises to hundred here, nor
goes below sixty; but the people are
not over Industrious, so from June to
September they think it warm and SO
will do nothing from IL a. m. to p. m.
but loaf and lounge. Hence, summer
nights are turned into day with them.
With the coming of September and the
tourist, they arouse and begin to. hustle.
The streets then are the busiest of any
but Paris, and the vendors of every
thing imaginable, pickpockets and beg
gars are like swarms of bees.
Strolling upon the campus or plaza
fronting the bay of Naples brings on
home sickness-the first real broad
scope of salt water, spanning out to the
Mediterranean sea, we have seen since
leaving the English Channel month
gone. We pass down great long stone
steps at one point, and get upon lower
plaza-in series mile long fronting the
sea-near 8 huge marine fort and
ramparts. Here is a marine market,
and the Neapolitan and his family are
scattered around by the thousands eat
ing and drinking wine. But they are
eating what? The queerest palates
we ever dreamed off. Our long razor
mussel, found along our sea shores is a
delicacy next to the mean, brassy oyster,
of which latter there are also plenty.
Then the little black round mussel that
clings to our James river oyster, grow.
ing to about the size of quarter and ir
punches nearly abushellarge. are hawked
around and for 2cents Q0centinies) the
vendor shucks all you want on the half.
shell. Fiddlers and even sand crabs anG
every other crustacean that is ar
abomination to us is deVoured with relish
by the southern Italian. Old hags anC
crones, looking pretty much as the
witch of Vesuvius was pictured b,
Bulwer, are scrapping and screechinl
while selling their maritime edibles
and waiter girls and men are hurryine
hither and thither to supply the thirsty
1t is the dirtiest, noisiest scene we hav,
met with. This goes on the weel
through. for the trade among the sail
ors and fishermen is just as rife as OF
Sunday with the families.
There are beautiful streets away from
the water, streets. stores and all com
pairing favorably with other European
cities, but be it known that there ar,