The daily sentinel., 1908-07-02
THE new STYLES
in SHIRT WAISTS
(By Catherine Mann-Payzant.) }


head of shirtwaists are included all
those waists and bodice accessories
to which the well-dressed woman
gives so much attention and which
are SO necessary to her good appear
ance.
The new materials that the vogue
has brought in, are well adapted to
these models. The soft silks with
their folds and gathers, and frills;
the pongees and rajahs, foulards and
chiffon cloths with their tucks, ap-
piled flat folds and fine stitchings;
and the sheer muslins. lawns, linens.
batistes and summer silks, which may
be made plainly or elaborately ac-
cording to the purpose it must serve.
There must be number of these
separate waists. those for the morn
ing, those for the tailored suit, those
for business; there are others for the
afternoon, for dressy evening wear
all to be planned out in appropriate
materials and styles.
The following design will appeal
to the well-dressed woman as an ex-
cellent medium for smart tailored
shirtwaists to be worn with the morn
ing or business suit. The fabric used
was mercerized French gingham a
popular material for these waists.
The back is peculiar in that it ex-
tends a trifie over the front on top
of the shoulders, and the full fronts
are gathered to it; especial favor is
shown to the shallow yokes that face
the backs of the new shirt-waist mod
els, which idea is used in this case.
A simulated plat marks the front
closing, and regulation, bands COM
plete the neck, finished with tapes
and buttonholes so that any style of
collar or neckpiece may be worn
with it. The sleeve is long finished
with a link-cuff, though it may be
finished in any style desired by the
wearer provided it is NOT a too dressy
mode.
French dress linen was used for
an excellent model for tailored
waist, which is entirely dressy in ap-
pearance because of its much fine
stitching and hand-embroidered cuffs
and collar, making it suitable for a
morning lecture or club meeting
The front is laid in plaits which are
stitched near the outer edge, the full
ness being left free below yoke depth
when preferred, or the stitching con
tinued to the lower edge A simu-
lated plait covers the front closing
and the regulation band finishes the
neck, with which is worn hand-am-
broidered turnover collars, and the
turnovers on the link-cuffs may also
be embroidered. A group of plaits
at the back centre relieves the plain
ness. Many other materials will be
found suitable for this model: such
as checked nainsook striped taffeta,
rajah. spotted foulard, French pique
and pongee.
A fine Irish dimity was used for
pretty shirtwaist which was made
dressy by the addition of crochet
lace applied between the tucks to the
collar and wide cuffs. though the
lace may be omitted and fine linen
cuffs and collar used with a ribbon
puff-bow. Groups of tucks In each
front are stitched to yoke depth.
those in the back extending to the
lower edge of belt. The full upper
sleeves have tucks on the outer side
which lends a desirable change in the
style of sleeve trimming. Between
the groups of tucks are bands of lace,
and the collar is of lace and tucks
and deep close-fitting cuffs finish the
sleeves. A belt made of lace between
two groups of tucks, laid length wise
and mounted on canvas to give it
body would carry out the design to a
nice finish. Suitable reproductions
could be got from embroidered voile
crepe de Chine, figured Swiss. check
ed batiste. and many of the silk fab
rics on the market and the mercerized
materials would make up beautifully
into wash waists.