The San Francisco call., 1908-05-17
French Theater Managers Annoy Patrons
With Too Much Fuss From Ushers
Sleeves and Skirts Are the Two Points That
Change Most in Fashionable Womens Toilets
By La VOyageuse

seem to be the favorite materials for
evening wear The shades of color are
so exquisite that every shade is beauti-
ful. Greens, khaki and Vittier blue
seem most popular for day wear.
AS I wrote some time since, dear lit
tie coates of black cloth and silk, un-
lined, are much seen. The Irish lace
coats are quite out OF style; still. they
can be utilized to trim linen dresses.
Filet is more and more popular
heavily embroidered and in all colors
saw q stylish long coat of this=black
over white silk-that was very attrac-
tive And lovely Vattier blue linen
dress had much of it of the same
shade on the short and long jacket.
GIRLS CLOTHES EXPENSIVE
Girls and even small children's
clothes are quite as dressy and nearly
as expensive as those for grownup
people. They are. as rule, copies,
more or less simple. of the reigning
fashion, and If the details are not per-
haps quite as long. they are equally
difficult to master. Wolfe, taffetas,
muslins and linens are used just as
for women.
For quite young people pique has
been revived, embroidered and braided
such as has not been seen for years.
Pique stands the washtub better than
most things and keeps clean longer,
both of which items are important.
Another novelty is a dress made of
colored printed aprons, trimmed with
black velvet ribbon, worn over a chem
isette, and a hat made of the same ma
terial, which makes a smart and
serviceable costume.
Tafeta is the first choice for grand
occasions for outdoor wear, while all
sorts of light materials such as Swiss
muslin, dotted tulle and tulle point
d'esprit make up beautifully for in
door wear. Not nearly so much Irish
lace is used; in fact it has rather gone
out of fashion. Valenciennes and
Mechlin lace are much worn. A sweet
frock for a little girl of 8 or 9 years
old is of fawn colored taffeta. the soft
kind. trimmed round the bottom with
two bias folds of velvet shade darker
The waist is simply an opening over
chemisette of tucked net with inser-
tions of Mechlin lace, the elbow
sleeves of ithe material being met by
a longer close fitting sleeve of the
lace. Charlotte hat trimmed with
pompadour silk, the border of pleated
net and lace, is worn with this cos
tune.
Bridge. with the telephone and mo-
toring. has helped to kill conversation
in Paris and London. as we'll as in the
United States, and the conundrums of
craze. In order to be a successful and
sought after diner out one must be
ready with something entirely new and
original.
Letter writing, too, among the smart
set is also now curtailed to the brief
est possible phrases. Yours in haste"
replaces all the old time gracious forms
Of expressing oneself. A popular hos
tess, rushed to death and giving a din
hrip q
man, otherwise don't, for you'll make
the thirteenth"
The portrait of Mrs Miller Graham
and her daughter of Santa Barbara is
receiving much admiration in London
where 1t is being exhibited at the New
gallery. And great praise is given Mr..
J. ]. shannon. the artist, for his sue.
cessful effort
THE engagement of Miss Jean Reid
to the Hon. John Ward has brought
forth all sorts of complimentary re-
marks for both parties concerned. Miss
Reid and her father and mother are re-
1nembered in Paris with greatest af-
fection. Their many kindly acts of
charity and never failing courtesy have
endeared them not alone to their fell
low countrymen but foreigners also.
Mr.. and Mrs. w. Whitney of San
Francisco have arrived at Hamburg.
Mr.. W. D. wayman of San Francisco
is in Naples
Mr. w. Sexton of San Francisco was
in London this week.
Mr. and Mrs Andrew Rose and fam
lily of New York and San Francisco are
motoring through Germany
Mr.. Samuel G. Murphy is visiting his
daughter, Mrs. John c. Breckenridge,
at her residence near the Bois in Paris
The following Californians have ar
rived in Paris: Sellan BulIard Mrs
Milton S. Eisner, Miss Helen Eisner,
Mrs. John Farnham, Miss M. l.. Farm
ham, Mr.. and Mrs. Henry P. Umbsen,
Miss Annie A. D. Roe, Edward A. Roe
Mrs. w. c. Waters, Miss Olive Waters,
Mr. and Mrs Henry F. Dutton, Mrs. w
J. Dutton, Miss Molly Dutton, Miss NJ
Feuerstein. Mr.. and Mrs. Jesse Olney,
Miss M. Schwartze, Mr. and Mrs. Leon
Levy Mr.. and Mrs w. w Rednall. Mr.
and Mrs. Randolff c. Miller, all of San
Francisco.
The spring salon or exhibition was
officially opened by President Fallieres
week before last. The number of works
exhibited is 1859, of which 195 are pic
lures. All the best known artists are
represented. Among the most remark
able is work of Charles Cottet,
showing group of fisher folk in the
foreground the stiffened corpse of a
drowned comrade, surrounded by weep
ing women. Another large canvas, by
Weber. shows a kermesse on the ter
race of ST. Cloud. A wonderful portrait
of lady, by Gervex, and a study by
f. Lee Robbins, the favorite pupil of
Henner, are among the gems or ''clous,''
as they are called, of the exhibition.
At the vernissage, or private view
many beautiful gowns were seen. The
concours hippique, or horse show; ver-
nissage, flower fete and race for the
grand prix are the smart affairs in a
public way of Paris. At the vernis-
sage l noticed particularly a lovely
toilette of natter blue silk yelling,
trimmed in tussor, embroidered in gold
blue and green. The long skirt had
another shorter one falling over it, The
bodice was laid in large pleats or
folds in bretelle style, opening over