The San Francisco call., 1908-04-05
''The COmpIete MOuntaineer"

By George d. Abraham Published by Double
day. Page Co.. New York. Price $3.50.
II HE lure OF high places. as old as
the hour when the first man
lifted up his eyes unto the hills,
has been sung and written:
Since spoken word mans spirit stirred
Beyond bis valley need
II does not call to the greedy or the
needy. like the lure O. gold; nor Is IT
wholly like the lure OF the waters or
the untrodden places. appealing to the
restless. the adventurous and the law
less; Il is not the peril nor the Joy OF
discovery, but a fascination and a
temptation specific and yet not to be
analyzed- And II has lure all of its
own to which Mr.. Abraham adds
bulky and most interesting volume, as
we'll as authoritative.
AS q fitting Introduction the author
gives q brief history Of the expert
ences OF the first mountaineers In con-
trast to the methods and attainments
Of the modern climbers. He tells OF
the equipment needed for conQuering
the mountains OF rock and ice and
snow. and adds much sage advice to
beginners. One OF the most interesting
OF bis chapters is that which tells Of
''ths art Of rock climbing" With it
are illustrations, truth telling photo
graphs secured by the wizard of lenses,
the telephoto. MIR. Abraham does not
hold with some mountain climbers that
& knowledge OF geology is necessary
TO the safety OF the rock climber. OF
this dangerous sport he says the ad-
Woe for the climber is like that given
the ball and forget about the scenery"
On this phase OF mountain climbing.
Abraham says:
The only formations that seriously
interest the climber in a practical way
are certain limestone deposits, more
especially the magnetism limestone of
the Dolomites. the granite formation
as. for instances, in some of the British
mountains and the various other series
OF volcanic rocks. These latter forma-
tions occur in the bulk of the noun
tains generally visited by the climber,
and the varying degree OF hardness ac-
counts for some OF the most shapely
peaks In the Alps.
The Matterhorn is doubtless a strik-
ing example OF this. The quartziferous
gneiss which forms its summit has
withstood the weathering OF ages much
better than the softer schistose and
crags- II is somewhat of a revelation
TO be on its eastern face during a warm
afternoon In June and hear the con-
slant cannonade Of rocks that seem to
be almost endlessly Gathering down to
the Furggen glacier. The work of de-
struction almost makes one wonder
how long IL will be before the lower
part has crurnbled away sufficiently to
leave the huge blocks of harder rock
at the top poised IN a dangerous state
Of equilibrium. It Will be a fine sight
some day when this comes crashing
down To the valley. But the present
generation can scarcely hope to see il,
Tor geologists would probably recken
the time required approxiuatelv in
thousands OF years.
Fortunately the Matterhorn is still
a comparatively safe resort for the
experienced rock climber, although not
a suitable place to learn the rudiments
Of climbing. The easiest crags of our
British mountains are exceptionally
suitable for this purpose, but the tyro
should carefully avoid the difficult
courses. Some OF these REQUIRE as
skillful treatment as any OF the most
difficult climbs OF the Alps"
The gospel OF the rock climber fs
summed up as follows: Great care
slow and deliberate movements, proper
use Of the feet, constant attention to
ones companions and skillful manipu-
lation OF the rope"
The book abounds in word pictures
as well as those secured by the camera,
making At fascinating alike to those
who have the obsession Of the noun
tains as well as those who never ex-
pect 10 go higher than the railroads
take them.
"Snow craft is shown to be quite a
different matter from the "art of rock
climbing" and here again the pictures
tell the story of the wonderland far
above the habitations OF men.
The dangers Of mountaineering are
comprehensively treated. and 81 COM
mon sense rules are given for the safer
exploration Of the heights. With these,
however, the author says: The dan
gers Of mountaineering fade into insig-
niflcance before it's joys and pleasures,
just as the neecy, sun bathed mist dis
appears at dawn from the snowcapped
summit Of the Matterhorn." He calls
Tennyson to witness. quoting:
The JOY OF life In steepness overcome
And victorious Of ascent, and looking down
On all that had looked down on os, and Joy
In breathing nearer heaven.