The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-07-19

times that a mere demonstration of lite
possibilities would plunge an Austen heroine
into q paroxysm Of her chronic hysteria.
As for the P%arisienne, hysteria is rot in
her line, and the art of dress holds no shocks
for her. She can accept with a serenity
whose surface is ruffled only by enthusiasm
any radical innovation launched by the
fashion makers, provided only that the new
mode ia becoming. As for excessive mod
esty or shrinking from extravagance--Oh,
Ia, Ia says Madame. 1T Ia becoming!
1t IL chic! Why look further, my dear?'
But all this Is somewhat Of a depression.
Tho fashionable sash or scarf girdle is not
OF necessity q thing to offend even the most
prvdish. In many Of its phases it is as
innocuous az the old time sash, although
usually more graceful. Every Parisienne
of slender waist and hips Is wearing such
girdles suocessfully-and q multitude not
blessed with the attribute OF slenderness
are nevertheless adopting the sash cult.
So far the fad appears to have made but
little impression upon the general public
on this side of the Atlantic, and the women
who wear imported frooks or have their
clothes made by very smart makers are
the ones who are exploiting the sash. Even
among this set little has rs yet been seen
Of such extreme scarf draperies as those
with which Paris letters are concerned,
but rumors are abroad in regard to various
wonderful Directoire gowns and Tanagra
effects that will enliven Newport in the
August midseason.
One Of our CORRESPONDENTS writes Of
two frocks just completed by a famous
French maker for a slender and audacious
American woman which should make. even
faded Newport sit up. and the most striking
feature In one OF these models Is a broad
supple scarf OF rose color liberty draped
closely around the body from high bust to
knee, outlining every line and curve and
falling in soft wide fringed ends to the
floor over a limp skirt Of sheerest null.
Such swathing effects, with all the
variations which the artist mind can de-
wise, are much affected by Partisan elegantes
and are often worn with results to delight
an artists soul. though they may offend
the Puritan's tastes; but the girdle nj
scarf arrangements which we have chosen
for our sketches are OF the more ponserva-
tive and practical character, which may
appeal to the average woman and yet give
smartness to frocks otherwise simple.
Often the scar girdle Is worn over a
modish coat, the arrangement being a
concession to the Directoire fad, and the
scarf being usually adjusted only a little
below the bust.
Or, again, the sash may belong with
the waistcoat, finishing the bottom OF this
chic accessory. knotted at the left front
and falling in long fringed ends from under
meath the GOAT.
There are pretty wide draped girdles too
which do not have the scarf ends. although
the latter are newer, and to bear the stamp |
OF the season these simpler girdles must
have some special association with the lines
Of a modish coat or w~aistcoat.
Where a Directoire coat cuts widely away
at the bust line in front a good effect is
sometimes secured by a wide soft girdle
finishing In front by a wide fat rectangular
bow passing through an equally wide
rectangular buckle. Such a girdle is pic
tlred here. the original having been In
one Of the exquisite soft Powered silks with
q narrow border Of black satin and a buckle
covered In black satin.
Black liberty Ia more often used for the
draped girdle than any other material,
though the soft satins and silks in color
are also much used. and Of course delicate
colors or vivid oolors are preferred to the
HcAo III WIG 4oaa6io ohu Sio1nfO
scarf arrangements. And, by the way.
genuine Directoire and Empire scarfs of
Indian cashmere are used, as well as the
sofs silks. for these swathing, tightly
draped eoarfs. enveloping the greater part
OF the figure. When It Is noted that these
scarfs are usually fastened by brooches
and must be readjusted on each removal,
one may gain some idea Of the effort. pa
n enOa ard 49, -At-l A.
p0ts into her. toilet. II goss without cay.