Omaha daily bee., 1908-10-18
Directoire Street Costumes Shown to Perfection

should be seen to be appreciated, for the
texture of the material and the perfection
of detail escape us in a sketch.
The handling Of the sleeve and bodice
are especially good. the lines OF fine SOU
tache with their little loop and button ends
being so disposed as to hide the armhole
entirely and give the impression Of a
bodice and sleeve cut in one. This effect
with its consequent length of shoulder line
is considered particularly chic. and in this
instance the long shoulder line is accen-
tuated by a continuous line of fine all
white cord embroidery which runs from
guimpe to cuff down the outside of the
arm. Similar embroidery bands border the
guimpe and trim the bodice front.
soutache trimming corresponding with
that on the bodice ornaments the side OF
the skirt and a diagonal band Of the cord
embroidery and soutache runs in a long
diagonal line across the clinging skirt
front. The jumper, like so many OF the
daintiest guimpes in the handsome French
models, Is ar absolutely simple one OF the
tucked net, with a high collar and frill Of
the same net.
The only note OF color in the frock is
in a soft girdle of smoky gray satin The
directoire coat which completes this cos
tune will be readily understood from our
sketch, but 1t has a number Of excellent
details.
Almost all the coats are long, many Of
them on the redingote order, but a few
short coat models from authoritative
makers were shown at this opening,
notably one of which we spoke last week,
a black broadcloth with empire skirt and
a coat reaching only to the short waist
line in the back, but with a patent leather
belt set or the bottom edge OF the coat
so that the effect in the back was that
OF a belted one piece frock.
In the front, however, the coat fronts
fell over the belt in two long. wide tabs
reaching almost to the bottom Of the spirit.
These tabs or panels were braided and
there were braided panels to correspond on
the sides and back Of the skirt.
Some very handsome street suit models
were made up in Ottoman silk, this heavy
corded material being particularly smart
when rather severely tailored on very chic
lines and worn with handsome furs.
Bernard has a most successful model in
taupe Ottoman, fastening douple- breasted
across the bust with big eabochons and
cords, while from a point just below the
bust line the fronts are cut away a little
ana ral straight, leaving an opening Of
perhaps four or five inches. In this open
ing appear the long fringed ends Of a
girdle of black liberty, and the collar and
cuffs Of the coat are Of black liberty,
while a waistcoat showing above the coat
collar is Of gray brocade with a Gravel
of lace.
And apropos Of Bernard. the most amaz-
ingly smart street coat shown at this open
ing was one Of his models-a long coat OF
redingote type in silvery gray broadcloth Of
most exquisite texture. Perhaps we can
best give an idea OF this coat by saying
that the whole back OF the coat and backs
OF the sleeves were cut In one. the fronts
OF the coat and fronts OF the sleeves ditto.
Consequently there was a continuous seam
from the collar down the shoulder and the
outside Of the arm to the cuff. but there
was no armhole.
h coat was loose fitting. having seams
only under the arms, yet was drawn some
what closely round the body so thai It
chung softly and demanded the absolutely
fiat back that Is a part Of the modish
figure. The front crossed to the left and
fastened with big buttons. as win be seen