The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1908-12-06

New York, Dec. "a great deal
of excitement was manifest at the
beginning of the season over the ex-
treme changes that were made in wo-
mems clothes, but again the extreme
is returning to the normal and as
Stunning more rational proportions.
Some very charming and becominS
styles are being evolved out Of the
new things that were given us at the
beginning of the season. There seems
to be a leaning towards the fashions
of few years ago when simplicity
was the keynote. True, these things
are not seen to excess on the street,
but over elaboration tires my lady of
fashion and simplicity has always a
charm that much decoration never
has.
Combining of two materials is one
of the popular fancies of the season.
Cloth and velvet are used in all colors
and one or the other may be more
prominent. Satin and cloth are FIRE.
quently used, satin and velvet, the
heavy ribbed silk and broadcloth are
combined most cleyerly TO give con
trast where but one color is used and
the. "all-one-color" gown is very pop
ular at the present moment.
The question of decoration is a big
one in these days, and when it is said
that there is a tendency toward the
simpler modes the truth of the state
ment is hardly apparent to the gen
eral eye, but must be inferred from
those advance styles that are seen
only in the more private and exclusive
stores.
When braiding is used it is rarely
used on both materials, IL two. are
-, -
cloth has braiding then the velvet is
left free OF decoration, or vice versa
A skirt of velvet with an overskirt of
cloth and jacket of cloth, will have
a skirt perfectly plain and the over
skirt and jacket we'll blaided. There
is just one difficulty in this matter
of decoration, the danger of spelling
the long lines so essential nowadays
to the present modes. All trimming
should accentuate this point of length
except in the case where the wearer
is tall and slight and wishes to take
from - height and make herself
look sier than she is.
While the Directoire gown seems to
lead, no woman wishes all of her
gowns or costumes of this style and
it is not absolutely universal, for there
are gowns TO be found of the semi
pTl0CSSS HlDuS, IluplIc uOUClo, SHcdtH
skirts modified TO suit the tastes OF
the American woman, and for GER
tain times and Duties even the shirt
waist suit and the jumper dress are
in style. There have been many
changes since their beginnings and
every woman who is what is called a
'.good-dresser" makes further modi-
fications for her own style and needs
indeed. often she combines the fea-
lures Of two modes. though the conn.,
bining of two historical modes is not
one to always be commended.
There is practically no limit to the
range of colors fashion permits this
season, but the preference seems 10
be toward all of the dull tones-taupe
reems OF be liked very much for the
Empire gown, grey and parme-Violet
are often seen in the Directoire suits,
and the latter when trimmed with the
great pockets collar and revers in vel
vet makes a very rich looking cos
tune.
1t has become a fashion with some
women to have two coats to the one
skirt. Perhaps there will be per-
fectly plain skirt and one coat of vel
vet trimmed with braiding and per-
haps beautiful furs. and a lighter
coat in the cloth trimmed in another
fashion and IL the color is not q too
pronounced one this matter of the
two coats gives the effect of having
two different gowns
A few colored braids are used on
gowns OF contrasting hue. thus for
instance cerise is used on black
broadcloth put on By sewing not dat
but edgewise. Nevertheless the one
tone effect is liked better than all
others and it does not so soon put a
gown out of commission The one
tone in black is after all the most
economical gown to possess, except
that among some women there is a