The daily sentinel., 1908-10-08
BY Catherine Mann-Payzant.

New York. Oct. S.-A smart cloth
costume is one of the first requisites
for early autumn wear, and should
be of such texture that it is not too
heavy for the warm days that re-
turn for a farewell visit, or too thin
for those colder.
After a long warm summer every
wash dress has more or less passe
effect, every light weight cloth is
rusty and sun-scorched and nothing
seems to agree with the clearness of
the skies or the freshness of the air,
and light weight gown is an addi-
ton to ones wardrobe that gives a
feeling of renewed vigor after the
pale colored gowns of summer.
Serges, broadcloths. snftings, etc,
all of the chiffon weight. are to be
much used for the earlier days of
autumn. and the prevailing colors are
smoke grey, with a touch of olive
green or orange in the trimmings.
dark brown, dark mauve or the ame-
thyst shades. Certain reds and
greens are much used and fit in well
with the hues of nature that are
seen on every side at this time of the
year. Any of the materials or colors
mentioned may be constructed upon
the whole-piece costume and worn
with a ruche of net, lace. or mar
service thus it may be worn again
during the colder months with long
heavy cloth or fur coat, which when
removed still leaves the woman eX-
quisitely gowned.
Nevertheless, white or grey striped
with narrow black line, cream or
very light tan are all being used in
the serges and fine broadcloths for
autumn use, but in all these colors
there is warm color to the tintS.
White is liked so well that many
serges and broadcloths have been
developed from them. decorated with
beautiful strappings and braidings. A
good idea is a short skirt and jacket
of deep cream shade in heavy mesh
serge braided in military strappings
in three-quarter inch silk braid. 1t
was extremely plain in cut and fin
ish except for the braiding. A grey
suit might be developed in this fash
ion with darker shade of braiding
which would make the suit present
abe far into autumn. OF course,
these light colors depend largely
upon the wearer's nearness to the
south or the North.
Long skirts seem to be much more
worn than they have been for long
time, but for walking the majority
of women adhere to the sensible
Just clearing" length and a much
shorter mode for stormy weather.
Two distinct styles OF the tailored
modes hold precedence today. and
they have almost ousted Lne plain
tailored costumes with its three-quar-
ter length coat and short plated
skirt, for which most business wo-
men sigh, as it was most conven-
lent mooe of gown and served many
purposes. The change has come
gradually and we find for utility
wear, such as shopping. travelling
and morning wear generally, there is
plain skirt with a little trimming
of plain bands or braiding on the
front or side panels, the skirt clear
ing the ground by not more than two
inches. flaring well but not plated.
The coat is three-quarter in length.
alt loose with a Directoire back and
front or smart cutaway effect-it
must be trimmed.
The second style is more dressy.
either touching or just escaping the
ground, (most of them touch or
weep, and the coat is braided, or
trimmed and is very elaborate in eff
feet.
The tendency Is more and more to
me aaistiine until there SEEMS
be no dividing line and the dress
IS "an all figure" effect; and so
ever have the modistes become that
they have obtained many, effects for
a figures which by smart man
,ulation gain the slenderness called
for by the modes Of the day.