The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-03-29

turned upward and braided IN the nheet
biscuit soutaohe. This same narrow trim
ming borders the shallow EuimPo and
appears on the sleeves.
To drag skirts Of thin. supple, material
down into the desired olinging folds some
skirts-not. Of course. In transparent ma
terial-are faced at the bottom with broad
cloth matching the skirt material In color.
This In no way lnterferos With the softnees
around the foot. but does give the needed
weight.
Thinning extending for the full skirt
length down the middle front Il much used,
the line usually continuing up the bodice
front, and there are, too, smart models In
which q full length line Of trimming runs
down the lett side only, Stimulating or aotu-
ally marking an opening down that aide.
Tho princess or Empire skirt and the
shortened waist line are AZ popular as ever,
by far the larger part Of tho new French
models showing these effects, though gen
uine Empire coat lines are not often seen
Even where q girdle runs up TO an Empire
point In the back the skirt below IL seldom
falls freely from the girdle. Instead II
usually curves In TO define the waist curve,
and this difference separates the semi
princess from the true Empire. The latter
is still used for thin evening and house
gowns, in which case a fitted slip defines
the curves Of the body, showing more or
less distinctly through the transparent
fulness.
The semi Empire frock pictured In the
large group is a remarkably handsome and
modish creation, only slightly short OF waist
line and shaping loosely 10 the curves Of the
body at sides and back. but with no actual
fulness below the girdle. SILK mousseline
intricately braided In soutaohe 10 the mate
Tialused, and the combination Of bodice and
coat. with the soft girdle and wide buckle
defining the lower line Of the bodice. il origl'
nal and charming.
Long close fitting sleeves contend with
picturesque draped sleeves, the latter, how
ever. more and more defining the shoulder
and outer arm lines, even though there may
be japanese or purely French fulness under
the arm. Sleeves cut in one with the bodice
or having that appearance are many, but
the very wide Japanese armhole and sleeve
have had their day save in connection with
wraps, where any and every bizarre sleeve
drapery Is admissible.
A small draped upper sleeve falling open.
q little 10 show q transparent undersleeve
Of net or lace shirred or tucked, but fitting
quite closely to the arm, Ia an arrangement
much In use; and often the outer sleeve u
made In plaits forming q continuation OF
the bodice plaits. al in the striped NOUS
selma model which figures in n OF the
small sketches. This model is an excellent
lane for developing in any Of the very wide
Pekin stripe materials and should not appal
even the ordinary dressmaker. though
successful handling Of the plated sleeve
and bodice demands q little cleverness.
The band OF three stripes running around
the bottom Of the vertically striped skirt
is effective and a note worth remembering.
In black and white over palest pink, with
the double girdle In black and pink liberty
and with folds OF pink liberty bordering
the guimpe, this would be a delightfully."-
freah and modish summer froOk attainsble
at comparatively slight expense.
The stripes appear to be carrying all
before them, though the most exclusive
makers still sound the warning note and
Insist that one tone materials are moro
chic and more favored by the ultra. fashion
able than the too popular striped stuifs in
contrasting colors. II stripes there must
he in street costumes, let them be Of the one
tone invisible or shadow type.
Block checks In black and white wOrsteds
are receiving some attention for tailored
wear and are rather a relief "from the
ubiquitous striped trotting costume, but the
invisible striped serges and other tight
weight worsteds are still better for the
smart tailor frock. For early spring wear,
jumper princess frooks OF light weight
striped suitings, with coats Of plain color
matching one OF the stripes, have been worn
in Paris, and the same idea is being carried
out in voiles and silks for warmer weather.
A very sheer white and black striped wolfe
princess frook with a black messaline coat
il among the collection Of French models
brought over by one Broadway importer.
At the bottom Of the frock is a very narrow
band Of silk soutached in black, and similar
trimming is used upon the bodice part OF
the frock, where appears also a little red
pongee in a rich vivid tone, embroidered by
hand in black and white.
The short silk coat iS lavishly soutsched
and held in by an odd little braided girdle.
and It has sharply pointed little revers OF
.1i embroidered ia Sia0a snd White,
Liberty, messaline and chiffon taffets are
still much in evidence Is trimmings for
voiles and other sheer stufs, and supple
satin is even combined with lingerie ma
terials. One Of the most exquisite models
shown at a recent notable opening was a
hand made frock Of finest white batlste
trimmed in valenciennes and soft natter
blue satin.
The satin formed a deep hem on the bot
tom Of the frock, and above this we're four
teen rows Of narrow inset valenciennes in