New-York tribune., 1908-04-19
No Pefffcoafs, the Paris Dfcfun,
low Famous Dressmakers Keep the Cnging Skirts Grace
ful-The New Couture.

under the sun. that they have become favorite
materials for the summer above all others. Cloth
IS employed a a trimming tussores well
on tulle. silk and marCusette. A costume of blue
nuns yelling IS pretttly trimmed with bands OF blue
cloth on the short pleated skirt and on the loose,
half-long coat. Besides It is used IN extremely
narrow bands 10 adorn TIE blouse Of coarse tuIle;
this is low the neck over d little chemisetts
OF white tucked batiste and cravatted with blue,
Worn at AuteuI. the last race day was q cos
tune OF iron gray shantung. The skirt had a
peated tablier. with the side breadths buttonng
over onto II. The habit coat OF striped silk,
IN TWO shades OF gray, opening over waistcoat
Of shaded crimson brocade, crossing and buttoning
with three large gold buttons. The hat OF gray
straw waved rose tinted pIumes.
CLOTH TRIMS SILK
An extremely smart looking long
skirred tailored costume OF blue silk trimmed with
cloth. The long redingote was OF the cloth, with
silk sleeves and cloth cuffs. The redingote did not
meet IN front and down each side, through large
Sits embroidered in the cloth. g wide
ribbon OF softest black satin with heavily fringed
ends which fell free Just below the waist line
Inside was blouse Of white linen made with fine
lingerie pleats. II closed in front under wide
pIeat set, with three buttons oddly made from
rough bits OF turquoise set in gold. She
great hat OF black erin with an enormous soft
crown Of black satin, made more enormous by
several ostrich plurnes and all waved endless
lengths Of blue chiffon in the form OF veil
All the world IS wearing stocks made Of a high
1Ttu Of linen or mOusseline de sole To keep these
triies fresh is a veritable seryirude. If uses
the linen frlu il must go daily TO the IaUndress
il the moussene De sole IS preferred, it Is possible
10 do 1t up ones self.
4 coat OF black striped silk shows no seams
cept one under the arms; In the back IT is split
from neck TO hem from the neck TO the belt line
II Is held together by braided ornaments, and all
the edges finished vita a thick silk cord. The
fronts have short extensions; below these II
slopes longer TO the back into fshtau points. The
skirt with this is OF blue voile, mounting
into wrtnkling folds that snApe little waist
coat
A pretty little coat that drops into a sharp
point in the middle OF the back has its fronts
adjusted in such a manner that they may be
tapped TO cross on the bust turned back into
shawl shaped revers; when turned back they but
ton on 10 large buttons one on each side, appar-
emily placed there for ornament.
HAIRDREssING MODES.
At one OF the recent femina conferences a
pretty dark haired woman altogether charm
ing in a large lace Charlotte hat The black vel
vet that banded its crown was quite four inches
wide and ends of it hung to the hem of her
gown These ends she handled she would
scarf winding them about her arms in the most
graceful manner. Her costume was Of white
voIe and white fIet lace embroidered with the
coarse half-twisted silk described above. At the
TOP OF her girdle, showing in the open front OF
her coat vas a huge. loose petalled silk rose!
There is a decided change in haIrdressing. Still
ample in quantity it is parted in the middle Of the
head and arranged in soft folds, half hiding the
ears This greatly enIarges the head on each side
The unduIatious while still quite evident aim at
irregularity and grow smaller toward the back
where the hair is gathered into big bunch. An
attempt is being made to introduce the long ring
lets tha+ one sees in old albums All Ornamental
ZION for the hair is most pronounced in character
such as long paradise feathers. dropping low or
Understanding aigrettes thick and stn or railing
softly like a fountain and half wreaths Of flowers
- lunches rIaced at the back OF the ears. Yet in
,retry contrast 20 these extra avagances one often
reas sirnDle twists Of gold silver ribbon, tying
into = smart bow at side.
,reu, stockings match the gown, Of whatever
- tIre green or violet-for indoor wear and
,be shoes must match the stockings. For the
street neck ruches are OF tulle, silk or net Ihey
.e nleated into a thick. wide mass that circles
closely the throat and fastens al tle odcA uii1S
-, ~, ~ wide ribbon hanging long ends