Los Angeles herald., 1908-10-11
First Comes the Utility Coat The Influence ST the Sheath
Skirt Suit Coats That May Be Worn Separate
Wraps Sashes Feature : The Dernier Cri
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are exceedingly wide throughout their
entire length and deeply plated Into the
top OF the arms-eye, as well as into the
cuffs; others are adapted to Oriental
arms-eyes or cut In one with the garment,
thus bringing into prominence the long,
sloping shoulder Of the kimono type.
| The Kangaroo sleeves.
| The term kangaroo" is not especially
| suggestive of beauty In sleeves, and yet
| the style to which the name is given is
| most graceful one and c-rtain to be
| much In use for coats of a certain class
| or rather two classes, for 1t is seen in
the simpler types of evening coats, as
well as those made up of coarser materials
a1d designed for motoring and travelling
rather than for general street service.
The feature OF the kangaroo sleeve is the
fulness which is Afforded underneath the
arms, where 1t is set into the 'eye" with
deep plaits, while at the top and sides 1T
fits smoothly and clings to the arm from
shoulder to wrist, where 1t Is gathered
into band beneath deep cuff, the plaits
at the under side being stitched down
fatty from elbow to wrist. Sometimes
this sleeve is SO cut that at the top 1t is
In one with the garment. the fulness
beneath the arms being let in By means
Of little gore.
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Since the sheath skirts have had so
marked an effect upon outer garments by
making the majority of them less volum-
inous, siashed sides are more than ever
an advantage in the case of long coats,
many of which are made so narrow that
to walk In them comfortably would be an
impossibility were 1t not for the openings
which start either just below the waist
or the hip line. majority of the ulsters
have these open sides, but they are an al
most general feature of the scant box
coats such as are intended for general util-
ity wear. In the slashed side models Is
seen a coat which is destined to play an
important role In the winter wardrobe Of
the women who must literally make one
wrap do the work of two.
Dressy Broadcloth Wraps.
Every year broadcloth tailored suits gain
additional popularity, especially with the
woman who appreciates the advantage Of
having one really well made street cos
tune which may correctly be worn morn
Ing and afternoon and evening for certain
evening functions. For a number of sea-
sons past she has had to content herself
with the box or the military coat and the
plated or gored walking skirt, but this
year Dame Fashion has proved veritable
fairy godmother in that she has provided
a type of broadcloth costume which, while
modestly unassuming for morning use, is
yet sufficiently dressy for an afternoon re-
ception. This is the broadcloth suit of
three pieces-a short and a trained skirt
and a coat which may be made to extend
to just above the knees to trife below
them or almost to the skirts hem. The
advantage of this mode Is that such a coat
may be correctly worn with a skirt of an
other color providing that 1t harmonizes.
or with the satin gowns which every wo-
man who can possibly acquire one will In
clude in her winters outfit.
Empire. Directoire or Continental.
The dressy cloth coat, whether or not
designed to accompany a special skirt
Is In any Of the popular types--Empire,
Directoire or Contnental-and may be
trimmed in many different ways. On some
Of them are placed black or matching sat
in bands, yelaborately soutache braided, on
others fancy and soutache braids are EN-
ployed together or separately, and again
there are broad and narrow bands of wool
lace dyed to precisely match the tone Of
the material