New-York tribune., 1908-06-28

II there is American edition of this book
we have not heard OF it Failure to REPRINT il
here would be a grave oversight and if is 10 he
hoped that some publisher viii immediately see
10 The matter. He viii have his reward. Like
the book which no genteman's library should be
without this is Indispensable No traveller
Who cares TO dine should neglect to carry copy
O. IL in his pocket Colonel Newnhau-Davis is
discreet enthusiast He loves his subject but
be treats il without prejudice Realizing that
cookery is, in measure at least matter of
taste, he does not seek TO impose his likes and
dislikes upon the reader. but proceeds to state
the facts about the restaurants of E1,rope Nat
Urally he pays no attention TO those that are
Enthusiastically bad But amongst those that
have any merit whatever he recognizes all
schools so 10 say, and leaves us free to make
oUT choice He is q trustworthy guide and
into The bargain, a gourmet who is also after
his fashion, man Of letters, Side by side with
a note on a good dish he places an historical
anecdote or fragment OF gossip His book is
readable even three thousand miles away from
the epicurean delights he describes
This author has dined in France Italy Spain
Germany, Austria. Russia. Sweden, Norway
Denmark. Portugal the Balkan states and Tur-
key. and SO knows from personal experience
what TO eat and drink and what to avoid in
the forefront Of his book IT IS certainly he
s1ys the culinary centre Of the world. "Wher-
ever The great cooks are born" he adds and
most Of them as q matter Of fact see the light
n the Midi-they all come 10 Paris 10 learn their
at and then go out through the whole civilized
world culinary missionaries preaching that
there IS but cuisine and that the Haute
Cuisine Francaise." He goes on TO show how
tie French cooks bring 10 their art above all
tlings invention THE chef dc cuisine who could
Tot enumerate hundred and fifty entrees all
distinctly French would be proficient in his
noble procession Nature has been kind TO
these masters. They have at their doors some
materials which can be found nowhere else in
the world For example, says Colonel Newn-
haIn-Daris, veal is practically unknown
meat IN London; and the calf which has been
ted on milk and yolk Of egg, and which has
flesh soft a kiss and white snow, |
Is only to be found in the Partisan restaurants.
! know OF one gourmet who was so enamoured
of French veal that he made pilgrimage in
the month OF August TO Pontoise to taste it at
Is best There is a temptation nearly every
Page Of this book TO pause upon some exquisite |
dish The author has due sense Of the i'm |
portance OF the surroundings in which he finds
f. For him the good restaurant has person |
slity usually summed up in its proprietor.
Speaking Of Voisin's. he says that the proprie- /
tor M Braquesac gray haired and with an |
aQuiIine nose, is always, when be is in the res
tau-ant- the most distinguished looking man |
there" He quotes from another deyotee droll |
Ftory Of an Englishnan who once demanded |
= plum pudding at Toisin's -'The m0ifre dh0tel |
was equal 10 the occasion. He was polite but
Erru. and his assertion that the House Of Eoisin
dges lot serve has never served, and Will never /
serve plum pudding settled the matter" An |
c-f.r auecGote relates to occasion on which /
IN author took q lady to breakfast at the Tour |
d'Areent. He began the order that he gave TO
Frederic himself with a suggestion Of eggs. leav-
ing i 10 the great man TO decide how they |
should be prepared Suddenly his companion |
SPOKE saving "Cffs q Ia plat with air as
q heIcing out Frederic came back from the
clouds and gave the lady one look. Il was not
E lo.l. q anger OF contempt, but simply an ex-
preston % pity for the whole Of her sex" 1t is
q 1hls poet that Colonel Hewnhanl-Davis tells
IT. GLOWING anecdoIe:
Frederic s believer all great nraitTes hotel
a.. 4 very short dinner. When the secretary
.h,- Fering Sea Conference interviewed Fred
enc u Lord Hannens request told hlfn thal Lle
T-erho-s Cf the missions would cine at lhe
Tour Z Argent and sketched out a twelFe-course
dinner IN a sOrtet in the middle OF It, trederlc
as4ed MIN POLITELY TO take his dpiomatists else
where. for such baT-Jarous meal would never De
seT.ed the Quai de Ia ToureIle
Il this book had been written by hidebound