davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
Materials for Half Mourning.

Materials for half mourning for sum-
mer wear include black and white striped
crenes. GAUGES. lawns, dimities, thin silks
and cotton wolfe.
Black and white polka dotted material
is not considered mourning, though many
wear 1t. A black Swiss Cotted with white
and finished with plain white lawn collar
and cuffs suggests an attractive half
mourning toilet.
Plain white and plain black India silks
are admissible, also plain lawns In the
same tones, organdie. dotted Swiss. crepe
cloth. dull wolfe, null, batiste ana mousse
Trimmings may be of dull ribbon. net
rnchings self folds, tucks, dull passemeh-
tsrie looking braid and plain soutache.
No lace of any kind
Hats NAV be of all white, all black or
lavender trimmed. white or black WINGS
or combination of all three tones.
In materials OF winter weight the ust
includes dull broadcloth, melrose, serge.
French panama, full wool. batiste. cash
mere and henrietta.
Du,l silks, such as armure, bengallne'
a+c are considered mourning.
There could be no objection to the PLAIN
bid shoes worn with mourning. Plain
rrepadine. with mesh not unlike Volle
in weave. may be worn as mourning.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27

suede or channels skin. and many OF the
belts are shaped to form a sort OF corse-
let, and the prettieSt are n VeiNety
leather with a buckle designed purpOsely
for the wearer by her favorite artist In
the decorative arts. This is one OF the
fads of the day, and no woman VINO mas
time and money wears ornaments that
have not a special raison d'etre either
because of their pure artistic beauty or
for their combined beauty and usefulness.
The to be or not to be of the directolre
gown is the great question on the taps
al present. 1t is the desire for something
new at any cost that originates these
bizarre modes. For long time we have
glided smoothly along 4 placid stream
very violent outbursts on the part OF la
mode. Now we are being swirled about
in quite a cyclone of new fashions in a
bewildering manner. For those not Ia
miliar with the simon-pure directoire
gown the following description is given
Of the costume of Nine. Tallen. who was
styled the queen OF the merveilleuses' ::
Nine. Tallien. also known as Notre Dame
de Thermidor. appeared at Frascati
dressed-or. perhaps. "undressed''-in the
classic style. Her dress. which was de-
signed after that of the Athenians. was a
tunic of transparent lawn. which chung
to the wearer's body with each move
ment Under the tunic were flesh-colored
tights, with golden circets for garters.
antique buskins and a ring on each toe OF
her statue-like foot. So light In weight
were these gowns that at a garden party
a guests costume became the subject of
Il wager. The ladies or the party retired
into summer house, and actual count
of the weight of the costume was taken
and found to be less than two pounds.
The modern adaptations carried out III
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
Footwear FrivoIity.

First in the list Of frivolous things
come the paten. Gather vamps with up
pers TO match the gown exactly. You
can have this in cloth or leather. That
is IL your frock is OF lavender silx in
crusted with lace your shoes will be high.
with patent leather vamps and uppers or
lavender cloth or leather. the patent In
either the lid glove or suede finish.
Next To the highly tinted uppers come
pumps of black patent leather with "a
band of cloth or wildly tinted leather
around the instep. This may match the
frock. or. for general wear. Il may be
OF vivid yellow channels. For house wear
you will see patent leather pumps fin
ished with bands of tinsel ribbon, silver,
gold or copper.
White canvas shoes have given way
at really smart summer resorts to pumps
and ties in natural colored channels skin
or patent leather with channels skin in
combination. Among the novelties noted
for house wear are slippers of brocade.
with a rose or other flower at the point
OF the shoe, outlined with iridescent
beads gold. silver or pearl or rhine
stones. Three straps appear on these
slippers with buckles to match the bead
ing or jeweling on the toe. Another con-
ceit showed a slipper of eoftest brown
suede picked out with a pattern I'm topaz.
while an exquisite gray suede supper was
studded with opals.
A great deal of white beading is used
TO trim both black and brown shoes, and
brown suede ties with buckles of copper
were worn by a smartly frocked s1rl at
q recent studio tea.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
Cretonne SparingIy Used.

BY the way. the secret of wearing the
cretonne order of trimming is to adhere
to the effect of using merely touches of 1t;
more than that is disastrous. This was
made very clear in a private Paris letter
received of late. where dress was de-
scribed. the writer severely criticising one
of her American friends for wearing a
costume of white serge. the coat of which
was bordered with band Of the shadow
cretonne. including fiat collar and cuffs
OF the same. Her hat, of burnt straw,
was trimmed with the same cloth, but of
a different design and coloring. with os-
trich feathers in accord, and cretonne
parasol was carried at the same time.
The ensemble was a caricature of other
wise a pretty fashion, simply because the
obstinate young lady would carry out her
fancy, regardless of the good advice given
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27

fit little wire cap underneath tho shout
der to make the top of The sleeves set
out. They also wire the lace point which
falls over the knuckleS. and they are
very painstakng mOdistes who have in
troduced the art of wiring the TOP of
the stock with very slender wire which
can be bent TO fit the throat. They also
wire the front of the gown TO make it
keep its shape across the chest. 1t is Il
fine art. this bending of the delica'a wire
and twisting it invisibly through the
trimmings. but 1t can be done if one is
willing to take the trouble.
Among the ''fads and follies" of the
summer girl of l:US her vivid neckwear
certainly occupies first place. It's ever
increasing daintiness of color is allur-
ing to the eye. but destructive to the
purse. Tailored collars in white linen
are embroidered with dots and figures OF
vivid colors. and with them must be worn
a dainty tie. matching the collar exactly
in coloring. In fact, these collars and
ties are sold in sets. neither one being
complete without the other. Young girls
are wearing turnover or Peter Pam
collars of soft linen In natural color, with
buttonholed edges in green. blue. pink
and brown. With these collars is worn
a stiff bow of ribbon matching the EN-
broidery in color. The ribbon is wide
about six or eight inches-and the bow
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
ODZZYC mr. WQgYAZ.NE7t1oORZ

worn. Strange to say, the colored shoe
Is not as much in fashion as last sum
lner but the variety i'll black ana tan
makes up for its absence.
Coral pumps we'll as turquoise blue
rues are worn In the house or for dressy
;fternoon occasions with finc white frocks
az ones Of coral and blue.
The dark green and the lapis laZuil
not made their appearance. However.
some well-dressed women have these
pumps made to order tn latch suits or
that color.
For instance. Il -een linen coat anu
skirt look very we'll with bottle green
stockings and pumps with leather buckles.
and the sapphire blue linens and mohairs
are equally set off by the dark blue
pumps. with stockings 10 match.
The Girl and Her Ring.
The wearing of many rings has gone
out of fashion The wearing Of one on the
little finger is the regning style.
Every young girl thinks she is out OF
the fashion unless she has one. If she is
\ schoolgirl it is usually a heavy gold
ring spreading out on top into pam
zeal with the school motto or her IRA
:ernity letters carved iato H.
Ii il isn't this il may be Ter own
monogram or family crest that Is car.e .a.
on the gold. These rings are not SET
with precious stones. which for the young
girl have gone out OF style
There are many, however. made OF
eemi-precious stones. a whole one peine
used fo,. the fat top Of the ring. Jade
carbuncle. lapis lazuli. catseye are among
tine semi-precious stones used. Initials oil
symbols can be carved on these. Such
ring is a very good looking touch TO
young girls hand. -.
In planning a summer outfit one nice
dress suitable for church is always need
ed. 1t should be as cool as possible Win
ont being d: washable gown. LightWeigh'
nanama cloths and voileS are very GOOD
4 light tan panama made with a corseie
skirt and with a blouse of tan lace u
match, decorated with medallions o
coarse heavy lace. makes an attractive
and practical gown. The lace OF ne
waist could be lined only with thin ba
tfste. SO that it would be always cool
, Then a bolero should match the SIXTY a
a Jacket to complete the costume. Darl
. blue and white striped wolfe. shown In
. leading shop, would make a lovely cow
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
ron ZA AOR/XZ2YC DID

must he a tailored ore with short ends.
Soft. fluffy jabois of net and lace are
crowdinK each other on the counters and
are growing i'm favor
Two Types in Hats.
Among the small hats there are two
general types-the somewhat heavy ti1r-
ban. usually of draped straw or other
material. and the hat of high. sharply
defined crown and close curling brim-
but there are multitlIdinous variations.
The heavier turbans trimn with sweep
ing feathers of ore sort another or
with flowers call for a face somewhat
large and n profusion OF hair. and when
not too heavy are comfortable. practi-
cal shapes over which veil goes well.
but they are not so new as the small
hats of sharper outline and. though these
last are not for every woman, when they
are becoming they have q tremendous
smartness and piquancy, especially III
connection with tailored costumes.
Among the larger hats. leaving the
new sailor out of the question. there Is
some general conformity of line despite
the apparent bewilderinE variety. The
high crown and the VIE brim turning
up more or less sharply - the left front
or left side are the ruin. The genuine
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
Shirt Waist Design

This design makes very attractive
waist and at the same time is little work.
The petals may be worked solid or with
outlined stitch. The space between the
lines is for lace insertion. The collar and
cuffs should be made of rows of the same
insertion.
Everything shown on the miniature cut
will appear On the large sheet.
When you have sent to this ONCE 10
cents and have received the full size
working pattern noted above. follow these
directions:
Lay material on which transfer is to be.
made on hard smooth surface. Sponge
material with damp cloth. Material
should be damp. not too wet. Lay pat
tern face down on material and press
firmly, rubbing from you with crumpIed
handkerchief I'm hand.
Transfer will be sufficiently plain very
soon as you will notice II you occasionally
raise the paper by one corner
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
Pretty Color Effects.

A touch of color with black and white
oback &c always admired. and Just now
this combination is to be seen every
where.
The black and white shepherds piaid
j. rasnonstb,e for some Of the snartest
tourist coats and almost without ex-
centIon a bit of color is added
Often the color will be INTRODUCED py
buttons. little pieces of broadcloth IN
geranium. copenhagen blue or bright
e,,,araid green. set in black rims.
Aeain If will be piping of color or
entire collar and cuffs.
Though not heraided as popular color ,Sess
burnt orange is much worn on these
black and white wraps
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
THREE STYLISH COSTUMES FROM PARIS.

thin cloth or crepe de chine are copie'
as much as possible from those favored
by the fascinating merveilleuses in the
gardens of the Palais Ro5a But. where
as the merveilleuses leg appeared in full
view to the waist. the elegante of today
shows her silhouette with equal advan-
tage by adding an underskirt to her gar
ment.
In speaking of the gowns worn by Jose
phine de Beauharnais and her friends. an
authority says: 1.-The whole daring
scheme of attire emanated from pass
ing fit of insanity, the delirium of pleas
ure after furious madness and the de-
lirium Of blood.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
Hat of Burnt Straw.

One of the smartest hat models dis
played recently was a "Charlotte Cor
day" Of cretOnne, combined with burnt
stray.
The broad round crown was covered
with cretonne and bordered with rows OF
the straw. The brim was entirely of the
cretonne. showing just an edge OF the
straw. and was tied to the crown with
twist of black ribbon arranged in bow
at the left side, which held down couple
OF black quilts This was an original
piece of headwear
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
Button Skirts Are Stylish.

Buttons are n most important part IN
COS tume trimming this season. Skirts are
bu;toned little TO the left side from
belt to hem, most convenient fashion
for ironing.
The stores have an exceedingly good
line of these buttoned skirts. \ speciality
of English rep. in fifteen gore circular
style. closing with self or large white
pearl buttons. Price. $3.50.
The same style. but trimmed on the bot
tom. with a deep fold. was $3.50. There
were prices both higher and lower. ac-
cording to style and quality.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
Packing Skirts.

When a skirt cannot be packed full
length in the trunk fold the top over roll
of undertaking or a wad Of tissue paper
to prevent wrinkles, and use sort. flexible
paper in filling out sleeves and bodies OF
the fine lingerie and other waists. Hats
also receive their allowance of paper
tucked between the wings or flowers so
they will not crush.-Vogue.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
Combination Empire and Prin.
cess.

A combination of empire and princess is
a pretty development for soft goods.
1t should be made with full skirt that
would reach a couple of inches or more
above the natural waist line and finish
the bottom with a deep hem and group
of tucks in graduated widths.
The bodice might show round yoke OF
ivory all over lace, the material shirred
to 1t in baby waist fashion.
There should be an over drapery OF the
goods that would form in one surplice
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
Removing Ice Cream Stains.

The grease spots must first be removed
This YOU can do by placing the stains De-
tween two pieces Of blottins paper anu
APPLYING to them a warm iron TINS
should not be so hot as to destroy the
color.
After the grease is extracted. try rub
bling with chloroform. and II the color
has faded this can generally De reneweo
nv touching lightly with q weak solution
of ammonia and lukewarm water.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27

waist with wide kimono sleeves. Gather
the material ON the shoulders (staying
with a strip of ribbon at the backo SO as
to have plenty of fullness and arrange SO
that only small broad VS. OF 1ne " siiS
are DISPLAYED. Trim all edges with foio
of soft mauve silk. to which may be add
cd three rows Of silver soutache braid
The surplice should lose Itself IN a
crushed belt of the SILK. winch Wouiu Gnu
under a rosette at the back.
There would be full puff sleeves OF the
material. meeting long deep cuffs of lace
matching the yoke.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27


Coats of Chiffon Broadclo:h.
Coats of chiffon broadclc,A ere com.
s;dered smar; worn over skirts IN iajst
or mirage i'm tho same color. Goldea
brown is very effective. tie coat touched
up with a bit of cretonnc Of any OF the
tan shades. and almond green with black
satin collar and cuffs is extremely s;r.k-
ing.
II one can find the right shade. mauve
makes an artistic combination with TIE
new shades OF blue. The mauve must -
on the lilac tones. and The blue should
have II decided dash of gray in il.
Needlework Guimpes.
Picturesque toilets have never rea ..l.o
higher perfection than at preseuc.
Among the distinctive items that are
noticeable are tucked chemisette~.
guimres and slips of white OF any DELI
cate tint that is found becoming 10 tn
wearcr. They moi only insure ones being
able 10 wear a gown % any % the Try
ing fashionable colors without though
as 10 whether IL is becoming or no.. but
the wise woman who plans half dozen
OF these charming accessories can -
completely change the general aspect -
her gown that for all practical purposcS
she has az many different gowns.
Novel Wedding Gift.
\ wedding gift that bride ~ jh.
summer values enormously was given by
her sister Of seventeen. [: is a scarf. or
wrap. for the piece is two yards and
half long and thirty-siX inches wide the
material being a soft. very satiny Grape
OF ecru shade.
Within Il. all the way around, is paint
ed a conventionalized border OF oak,
leaves nine inches wide the brush work
being very sweeping. but light. rather
sketchy, in effect. Both edges are kept
absolutely even to heighten the conveu-
t!onality. The colors are dull gold. with
touches of browns and green. and in the
use Of her shades the girl showed ex-
quisite artistic feeling.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
SELF-TRANSFERABLE
EMBROIDERY
DESIGNS.

This cut is a small reproduction of an
embroidery pattern 1Ox15 inches. On
receipt of 10 cents we will send the large
design by mail to any address. The pat
tern may be transferred to any material
for embroidering by simply following the
directions given below.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
The Distinctive New Features of the Paris Mode y

on the left sleeve just above the elbow.
Some, however. prefer the decoration
worked over the bust, a little to the left.
occupying about the same position u
watch does when pinned to the dress.
Delicate colored threads are usually
chosen for this ornamental work. though.
of course, white is more to be depended
upon for successful laundering. Mercer
lied thread is used for the working.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
Monourams on Waist Sleeves

The fashion of embroidering the mono
gram on tailored shirt waists Is gaining
favor.
The newest idea is to place the lettering
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27

her by her modiste. who opposed the hat
and parasol. representing to her that a
coat so fully trimmed with the gay cloth
was sufficient and should not be over en-
phasized by further repetition.-Vogue.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27

face beneath. but the full mass of fluffy
hair universally worn and the upward
curl of the left brim save the day.
Ii is a season of brlliancy in foot
wear All that can be tno-~kt of is the
fashion.
Stockings of every hue to match the
marvellous colors used in costumes are
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27

cloche and mushroom shapes are out of
late, though some of the Louis XVI
models in net or lace suggest the IA
miiar lines, but many of the brims,-a
majority of them. in fact-droop low on
the right side and back. Setting low
on the head as they do. these hats some
what suggest a possible eclipse of the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
Coats of Chiffon Broadclo.h

Of this kind. 1t also Shou.d De lined VITA
batiste 10 be cool
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
Special Correspondence of The Star.

Sp"claI CORRESPONDENTS Of The Star.
PARIS. June 13, 1905.
HERE are many women who
account elusiveness the great
est of all the feminine charms.
y delightful woman whom
in in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-06-27
Partisan Toilet Novelties.

Among the little details of the Pa
risienne's toilet a few of the novelties
which have appeared lately arc the enor-
nous egg-shaped hatpins, upon which
some women have their notices set in
Jewels, and the sunshade handles with
heads Of little sninlais or birds, some
opening 20 disclose IA powder puff or bon
bonniere. Gloves, by the way, are all in
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1908-11-15
A FAIR EXCHANGE.

Large sums of money are no
doubt realized from simple spec
ulation, but the great fortunes
are derived from legitimate aid
honest business-where the goods
furnished are worth the price
they bring. Certain famous bust
ness men have accumulated their
millions wholly in this way.
Prompt and faithful in every
contract or engagement they en-
Joy the confidence of the public
and command a class of trade
that is refused to unstable or
tricky competitors. In the long
run it does not pay to cheat or
deceive others. A humbug may
be advertised with noise like
the blowing of a thousand trum-
pets, but it is soon detected and
exposed. The manufacturers of
WAMPOLE'S PREPARATION
have always acted on very differ
ent principles. Before offering
it to the public they first made
sure of its merits. Then, and
then only, did its name appear
in print. People were assured of
what it would do, and found the
statement truthful. To-day they
believe in it as we all believe in
the word of a tried and trusted
friend. 1t is palatable as honey
and contains all the curative
properties of pure Cod Liver
Oil, extracted by US from fresh
cod hvers, combined with the
Compound Syrup of Hypo-
phosphites and the Extracts
of Malt and Wild Cherry. It
aids digestion, drives impurities
from the blood, and is effec-
tive in Anemia, Debility, Lung
Troubles, Influenza, and all
Wasting Complaints. DR.. Louis
W. Bishop says: 81 take pleasure
in saying I have found it most
efficient preparation, embodying
all of the medicinal properties
of pure cod liver oil in most
palatable form" It is a scientific
remedy and a food with deli
cious taste and favour. One bot
tie convinces. Sold by chemists.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1908-11-15

life without any reference to the misery
and despair about him. Mr.. Simpkins
did not make many close friends, but
the streets of Kalautjapa win be the
sadder for lack of his untroubled coun-
tenance. and the pale festivities of the
settlement will move less joyously for
want of one participant who never by
word or act or glance gave any remind
er to his fellow citizens of their in
trinity or their separation from the
world of the active and healthy. With
out making protestations of charity,
single-hearted in his desire to bear an
honorable part in the life of his chosen
home, he did more, it is possible, than
he will be given credit for.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1908-11-15
LADIES CAN BUY HERE

Remembrance days. these YOU in your Sc
lection OF something suitable for boy. full
good things this and better had be-
Tore because there tendency among with
whom deal to build quality The broad
the of and mass of
elegance arials the mems wear is made
Go into the Territory carefully goods
make what allowance experience YOU
will still look the apoheoss Quality in the
individual articles makes Forty years catering the men of
Honolulu, and old, for something.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1908-11-15
PRESENTS FOR MEN
NeCkWear

Everything that's good
in neckwear seems TO
gravitate toward NC
Inerny's. This year our
assortment appeals to
every man whose taste
runs toward, a ''good
front. Keiser's Bara-
thea is a classic, really,
in stuff for ties or scarfs
and no imitator has ever
approached it in ele-
gance of weave, de1icacy
of color or softness of
fabric. Four-in-hands
in other material, pure
silk and of excellent ap>
pearance, suit many of
our customers.