The sun., 1908-04-26

with lightly and moreover in its daintiest
forms it is charming enough to endear
Itself 20 the feminine heart
To be sure, this separate blouse ia not
what II once was The silk blouse does
not play the important part in wardrobe
that il once did but the lingerie blouse
simple or ornate, is practically indispens-
able IN a summer outfit, and even the silken
blouse in new phases has obtained iresh
favor with prrtioular women.
We have spoken before OF the vogue
Of the blouse which has a touch OF color
combined with the predominating white
but no discussion Of the new blouse is pos
Gble without a mention Of this tendency
which Is possibly the most pronounced
innovation in the realm Of the blouse
The color creeps into the design in vari-
Gus ways. II may stripe or dot the whole
surface, II may appear in hand embroid-
ery on cuf and collar and frill, it may be
embroidered delicately over yoke or
over fronts
The simple models in fine striped batiste
or lawn with frontfrill are very much liked
and in some cases tiny hens in plain color
matching the stripe edge the plated irills'
the collars and the cuffs. Or perhaps there
are turnover collar, cuffs and frills OF
plain white bordered by narrow hens IN
the color.
Where the frill ls not wanted fiat box
plat bordered by colored hens is used
These semi-talored models open up the
front. and OF course this Immediately pre-
Sents a collar problem.
Often there is no collar at all, the blouse
being intended for wear with separate
collar and tie or rabat. This is probably
the most practical thing for the blouse
opening in front,
Designers have launched models opening
up the front, tho tiny buttons and button
holes continuing on up the collar front, and
this collar finished with an embroidered
turnover or embroidered edge but wo
have seen no way in which this collar effect
NAV be made trim, neat and becoming
The straight collar attached to the blouse
on one side and fastening down to II by
tiny hooks and loops around the other side
IL the only other attached collar alternative
for the front opening blouse, and this ar
rangement is seldom success. so ono gon-
orally comes back TO separate neckwear
with blouse opening up the front.
The novel French blouse OF firm hand
woven linen, which might have immense
cachet II worn we'll by woman OF eT-
ceent figure. made distinct concession to
fashions inclination toward plain, close
fitting effects. boing cut on plain tailored
lines without plsits or fulness. Sleeves
too, we're long, and almost tight through
out their length.
The blouse opened up tho front, this
opening continuing through the straight
high collar; and the smart and distinguish
Ing feature Of the model was the heavy
hand embroidery set in military effect up
each side Of the front, like frogging running
back from the round bullet buttons
Otbar plain tailored waists button simply
up tho front through box plat and, when
not in sheer material. are most chicif made
without plaits, save possibly for a small
plat at each shoulder point to hide the
armhols scam. In firm linen or pongee
these plain shirtwaists may have,no trim
ming or may have embroidery of contrast
ing color on cuffs, pocket aud collar.
Where the blous, il sheer yet opens in
front a frin is, as we have hinted, almost
inevitable, and charmingly dainty results
are obtained in this way at slight expense
Even a machine made blouse looks very
dainty IL equipped with hand made frill
snd many women buying the comparatively
inexpensive models rip the frills, roll the
edges and put the lace back on by hand
with results amply rcpayins the labor
and time spent,
The same thing will often transform one
Of the blouses made with a band or plat
Of embroidery set dowr the front and with
COLLAR cuffs and bow Of the same embroidery,
lace edged This is a common model, and
pretty when fine materials are used but
invariably the bow for the throat is awkward
hnd coarse because il is hemmed by machine
and it's lace is carelessy put on by machine
Ripping and remaking this bow by hand
will often change the whole appearances
Of the blouse.
Some frill models have the frills made
quite separately from the blouse and button
ing on with the same tiny pearl buttons
which close the fronts. and this aids the
lsundress greatly, for the frlls require
most careful attention and can be handled
much more easily and satisfactorily II
detached from the blouse.
This matter Of the laundering Of fine
lingerie frIs, rabats, bows. &o., has be-
come . vital one, and II u the rare laun-
49, S.ho doSa Rnll hIatioa 70 The dainty