The Montgomery advertiser., 1908-07-26
Pads and Fashions
nY FI.oREyCF FArRnANKs.

BY FLORENCE FAIRBANKs.
 New York. July 25-The sleeveless coat and sIeeveiess blouse Is style that Is becoming popular. The waists. however. are not entirely without sleeves but are cut in such a way that separate sleeves and chemisette of . thinner material may be worn. Many of the summer costumes which consist of coat. skirt and sleeveless blouse are made of linen with the sleeves and chemisette of batiste in the same tone as the linen. The sleeveless coats are considered quite the thing since no cos- tune that may be worn on the street appears finished without some fancy wrap or coat. The little black taffeta sleeveless coats are exceedingly smart with lace waist having narrow ruffied jackets made of linen suitable to be worn over simple frock of washable sort. As the sleeves of the frock show. it relieves the severeness of the tailor ed coat and the effect Is much pret- tier than coat sleeves of. three-quar- ter length. The sleeveless coat Is, In reality. merely termed this because of It's cut and does not always mean the jacket without sleeves. Very effective are the tailored sleeves applied in bands and strappings of silk. These new coats are made of voile, cloth, lin- tn. fancy silk or cretonne. either separate or with a skirt of. matching material sle .. st
 The modish New York girl is now wearing an extremely smart costume in the morning and early. afternoon. Her hat is the dropping brimned sailor with a plain or striped band. The collar and cuffs that are worn are the most attractive part of the costume for they are the new ones--thel wide turn down collar which. If fastened to the blouse. is put over the coat and cuffs are attached to the coat sleeves. The coat should always be worn on the street, to follow the correct style. and the only time the waist is displayed is at luncheon or indoors. These collars are fastened with a bar pin Of some sort, but are more often finished with a silk bow and ends tied loosely, or a labot or cravat of lace. The suits that are fashionable are made with flat, close sleeves, and are double breasted The skirts are preferably gored with the panel front.
 The cashmere gowns are at this time receiving the favors for afternoon toilettes. Both cloth and cashmere dresses elaborately embroidered have been seen at the races. They are very dainty and becoming the material be- ing embroidered in a polka dot, or small figure with heavier embroidery trimming at the foot of the skirt and waist. There are no coats to match the skirts, for this would be style too near the newest skirt and coat models, but if an extra wrap is needed, a short fancy scarf or cape Jacket of silk in the exact shade of the gown Is the correct accompaniment
 A&A~ frs~ r4nS.. .A-rfl frocks are more charming than ever, for this is the season of muslins, lawns. mulls and all the sheerest materials that make the dainty lingerie dresses. The sheer goods are made over a coi- ored foundation whether they are of g color or of pure white. At recent garden-party particularly attractive frock was seen. It was developed in pearl gray silk net, worn over prin- cess foundation of rose-pink messaltne. and. was trimmed with pearl gray lace. The sleeves, extremely long and narrow, were of net over pink chiffon and ended in deep cuff of cream lace. The bodice was made with a yoke of cream lace and where this ended was beaded net showing various shades of pink and green at intervals.
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 There is little to be said about the turn down collars of embroidered linen. They are still popular and there are many fluffy little bows to 20 with them. Moreover, neckwear on the stock idea Is gaining more favor especially du- ring the warm weather. The unlined lace stocks that are a little higher on the sides than in the back and front are pretty and comfortable, provided the point at the sides is not exasger- atedly high. The top is finished with a single and sometimes double frill of lace or plaited not, of whichever the stick Is made. The popularity of wids frills Is steadily increasing and the ribbon ruche Is a favorite to wear with foulard, gingham, batiste or linen, in fact, any one-piece morning frock. Tho ribbon is laid in pleats and tackled here and there to keep the place. This neck finish ts tied with a rather small bow. The ruches of malines and other trans parent stnfTs have been described many times before. so I will not speak Of them at this writing.
 There are some very smart outing and yachting frocks that are especial- ly interesting to the lover of sports. have noticed one chic frock made Of marine blue mohair and had tram mings of blue and cherry red striped tafeeta. The skirt was of the circular model having the inverted box plait in the back ana fastening at tho right of the front over a bias fold of silk. In the bodice the broad effect was giv- en by two wide tucl1s running from shoulder to belt. The sailor collar was outlined with a wide bias fold of tar- feta and the cuffs were finished in the same way. The puff sleeves were set in to good sized armholes A remov- able dickie in front had a fold of silk across the middle. The last finishing touches were silk covered buttons which ornamented the collar. cuffs and top of the front gore, a scarf of silk tied in sailors knot. and red leather