The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-08-23

but every arch and groin Of this echoes its
name, L%iebfrauen. That church will Ger
tainly be our most precious memory OF
hoary Treves.
Here you stand at the head Of passenger
travel on the Mosel River. There are boats
which 20 down three or four times q week
to Coblentz. They do not go every day
because II takes them nearly two days 70
climb back. 1t is about 119 miles by river
and every inch Of 1t is beautiful, but 1t 10
too much TO do In q day. The boat leaves
Treves at 7 A. M. and reaches Coblentz
about 9 p. M. 1t Is better to make q two
day trip OF 1t by taking the Moseltalbahn
tMosel Valley Railway. the little rail-
way as they call 1t at Trevss. and going
down as far as Trarbach or Bullay.
Bernoastel. too. is a good place to stop
for 1t IL In the midst OF the district which
produces that glorious wine, @Berncasteier
Doktor.' and 1t is not far from the home
Of the matchless aPiesporter Goldtropf-
chen" which sells on the spot at 50 marks
($s) a bottle. Berncastel. too. has another
charm and that Is Its seclusion. tits wholly
out ofthe world. and your ear must be quick
to catch the soft. swift. lush German they
speak there. YOU nay stop ats most COM
Portable hotel where you eat supper with
all the other guests at a long table. and the
landlord prefaces the meal by solemnly
parading around his simple board and wish
ing you all q hearty appetite. The supper -
plain, but good and the wine 10 Olympian
ambrosia. But you must know what to ask
for and how to ask for 1t.
Opposite your window rises q height sur
mounted by an old, partly ruined castle
called Landshut. 1t Is now the property
Of the German Emperor. He may have
forgotten 1t, but the castelar, has not. and
the flag streams proudly against the sky
from morn till n~ight-unless there isa storm.
The two world pilgrims saw a thunderstorm
In the mountains at Berncastel. 1t was
something to be remembered for its fierce
ness and It's majesty. 1t made even the
slender and gentle Mosel look tragic.
The boat 10 scheduled to leave Berncastel
at II. Doubtless 1t sometimes does go at
a quarter past. for about that time the bare
headed woman who Is the ticket office and
has the business OF the line In a little book
under her arm began to look ~anxiously
toward the point that cut Oh the upward
river view. 1t was nearly ten minutes later
when the white prov moved slowly out
from behind the trees. Then n idiot
danced up and down on the shore and SANG
violently at his companion, 'Das Schihl
Das Schifi Kurvenal. siehst du es nichtP'
They are going to talk about that man In
B~erncastel. They looked as II they would.
The Mosel steamer is q bad imitation
Of a second hand local Rhine steamer sold
for want Of further usefulness. But she
has awnings. tables and chairs. q cook and
q waiter. How good all the food may be
we cannot tell. but IL you follow u ex-
ample INT order ochsen flet init zwiebel
you will get q tenderloin steak with onions
which will give you much joy. The wines
are those Of the Mosel valley. You who
dwell in New York know them not. for
the best Of them are not exported and
those that are have to be reinforced so
that they lose some Of their delioacy. But
they are wonderful, and they have such
fine and elegant individualitiesl But this
is not a time for a dissertation on Mosel
wines anyhow, and moreover II 10 the
writer's intention not to tell all he knows.
lest he help to transform this valley Of
happiness into a net for Americans like
Frankfort. where even the little boys on
the streets expect to be tipped for telling
you that you are looking at a statue of
Bismarck.
At most Of the places along the route
the boat does not stop. She simply slows
down. A long. lean craft. a cross between
q soow Inc q gondola, comes Of from the
shore. poled or rowed with one oar. sheers
in alongside the steamer. catches a line
from forward and in less time than it takes
to write It puts people and luggage on
board or takes them OF. 1t IL all done
with admirable skill and without noise.
At other points the boat stops at wharves
Of q very primitive sort. There Is plenty
Of traffic from people to cattle. and every
one seems to be satisfied with the mode
Of travel, except the cattle. A for the
valley itself. 1t Is simply enchanting. The
little river turns and twists among the
hills. Sometimes 1t goes decorously through
placid reaches and again II foams and fuses
through narrow gorges. But you are never
far from It's banks. As you pass along
you can smile into the faces OF the girls
working In the vineyards tyou win not be
eager about it when you see them) or ex-
change SITUATIONS with the v%inegrower
driving his grave oxen along the road.
The hills are always covered with vines,
but usually only On one side Of the river.
As the turnings and twistings OF the valley
bring the sunlight on one side or the other
in the morning or the afternoon, and as
the soil and ~steepness of the deolivities
vary, 30 are the vines planted. You may
| see q hundred combinations OF soil, situa-
ton n exposure, and from these come
the various brands Of wine. The Braun
berger, for example, grows on the craggy
sides OF a brown hill. whose rugged rocks
| seem almost to defy the winners skill.
But man triumphs, al he usually does.
and the valley Is dotted with peaceful and
ancient towns, every one dominated by
its church. Indeed in some smaller place
you may see the vines growing almost
against the church walls. No minister has
yet told these happy people that they must
suffer eternal punishment for living by the
liquor traffic. Probably the good dominic
himself washes down the abendmahl with
q draught Of modest Zsltinger.
As for castles, ruined or restored, this
valley is almost as we'll provided as the
Rhine. 1t has some wonderful views OF hill
and castle, as at Beilheim, but Its CROWN
ing gem is to be found at Cochem, 7eH