The San Francisco call., 1908-05-17

hen Joined to the front gore, all the seams
finished and plaits stitched, and finally the
lnicdle.hack seam Is stitched. finished. and
pressed open. AL the other seams are over
casted or stitched together
If one is accurate In measuring and careful
to keep good lines there never will be the
slightest difficulty about having skirts At
ard how much easier and better this Is than
standing to be fitted, and how much more
accurately the work can be donel
The length can be found easily by pinning
the corresponding plaits together. top and
bottom. and measuring from the waist Line
down to the correct lengths in the middle OF
the front. over the sides, and in the back.
These places are marked with pins. then
line Is traced or marked through and con-
necting these points. The line must be
good one.' and Il st is not noticeable at any
point 1t is apt to be ali right Turn the skirt
up on this line around the bottom without
unbasting or pu.ing the plaits out and pin.
The skirt should be tried on and If this line
has been we'll done the skirt will be foundto
hang perfectly No change should be nee
essary. The skirt should be pressed on the
edge where II is turned up. then the hastings
can be taken out OF the pIalts for ways up
and the hem laid and the bottom finished.
It is well worth the trying to accustom one
SELF in doing plated skirt In this way; IT
saves no end OF standing and fusstng. and
when used to It the work can be done rapid
ly, perfectly, and easily.
The little jumper has three half inch tucks
laid on each shoulder stitched down about
two inches and hah from the seam. There
is large armhole and the material is cut
so 1t extends one and one-half inches over the
shoulder. The neck Is cut in high V in the
front and rounding In the back.
quarter or nickel will be a good guide to
mark the sceliops by and the addition of
few embroidered dots below the scalloped
edge is effective. This waist is Joined to the
skirt band and six small fancy buttons
decorate the front Of the skirt. two being On
the band and the other four below
This dress should be worn with a fine lin
gerie blouse either in white or the same shade
OF pink as he dress. This Ettle gown would
be pretty made OF white pique, linen or any
Of the colored chambrays
sprigged dinity or lawn would be lovely
made in q simple. full skirt -Four breadths
should be enough II the girl is slender and
rather small The bottom should have a hem
four inches deep and above this It would be
lovely II band OF valenciennes or hlet
neck were set IN. Otherwise it will look
we'll with no other decoration than the hem
In these full skirts the lower edge is al
ways perfectly straight and is finished be-
fore the top. Then the skirt is pinned to-
gether across the bottom and top and the
length Is measured from the bottom up In tine
several places and the usual connecting line
drawn. 1t is good plan at this stage to run
gathering thread on this line and try the
skirt on to be sure the length is even
Instead Of having the top simply gathered
It VIII be pretty to either side Of the front
and run I'VE tucks from the waist line down
-FOUR or hve inches Do this around the
balance Of the skirt Then run the gathering
thread In and adjust to belt, throwing more
fullnees towards the back than is over the
front and Edes.
Tuck the body portion OF the waist into
square yoke made OF the material and lace