Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-10-25

PARIS. Oct. Is.
with the first days Of autumn
M comes the need for a mantle
w some sort OF wrap which may
be worn on cool evenings and on cool
days over clinging gowns of satin. The
question of a wrap presents itself with
insistence at this time Of the year. One
feels during the evening the chillness
which shows that summer has gone and
that winter will soon be here.
There are mantles ''au jour" and
wraps for the evening, simple wraps and
sumptuous wraps. I am not going to
pretend to you that all Of them are be-
coming. but. Isl vous lie voulez,' l will
guide your choice between the varieties
which are offered.
There IS the jacket 1t will surely re-
take lis place in the category of wraps,
because 1t need not necessarily match
the skirt with which il Is worn. saw
only the other day a very good-looking
woman wearing a skirt of different
color from the coat. Then, there Is the
jacket In color worn with a black skirt.
or the jacket may be black and the
skirt In some color. 1t matters little,
the two are both permissible. The ad-
vantage of the black jacket is that 1t
may be worn with many skirts.
Many Of these coats are braided.
sometimes with black on black and
sometimes black on color. Even one
shade Of braid on another shade OF cloth
has it's charm
AS to the length of the jacket it is a
one which reaches only to the top of the
hips, you will be quite correct. II you
prefer one long. even one dragging
upon the ground, you will be considered
In the height Of fashion.
There Is also mantle of the empire
and directoire period. with fiat cuffs and
shoulders which resemble those worn
by the heroines of 1880. There are
shades. Sometimes they are trimmed
with fur and sometimes they are
adorned with lace. But should you pre-
fer something more simple. behold. then.
in response 10 your desire, the paletot.
Of masculine style, reaching TO the foot
of the skirt. Is it a mantle more
sumptuous that you would have? Would
you prefer coat to accompany cos
tune YOU buy? Alors. here is the model
jacket, lie dernier cri" 1t is made Of
rich material very much embroidered
and braided from head to foot One
might wear with ii "une belle zibiline"
model will be repeated all in fur. and
tnen IL could not be rivaled in either
magniticence or beauty.
Besides these coats that l have men,
toned there are also the jackets with
the touches OF the directoire. There
are the splendid fur coats on large. gem
erous lines which envelop the figure
and defy the cold weather of Father
Winter, and there are also the evening
wraps of liberty satin lined with liberty
satin and trimmed with a magnificent
arrangement OF gold and silver embroid-
cry. What more could one want? 1t
certainly would seem that Dame Fash
ion has outdone herself this year.
There is little secret which / wish
10 impart TO you. 1t is whispered among
The wise that the elbow sleeve Is return
ing for afternoon and evening wear It
seems as though the long mousQuetaire
has not been great favortte with the
particular Partisan and for some reason
or other she has reverted to her former
love. This Is not stated definitely by
any one-it is sort Of In the air, one
may feel il. However, few weeks will
decide the important question.
The Partisan has taken up with en-
fhusiasm the English habit of AFTERNOON
tea. and not only does she buy 1t at the