The Montgomery advertiser., 1908-11-15
PADS AND FANCTES
 AS THEY ARE SEEN
Cold Weather Has BFou@ht the Winter
 Styles Into the FoTe@reunG.

New York. Nov. il.--The cold wealth CT has brought furs to the foreground and the fashionable shops are making Q fine display of fur garments of every description. There are coats and jack cts of every description. capes. neck pieces. stoies and cloaks. muffs and hats, made of every known kind of fur. The very nature of the material makes great variation in style and treatment of furs practically impossi- ble, but the makers of these garments have displayed remarkable ingenuity in devising new forms and styles rich- CT and more becoming than ever. The coats are mostly built on the lines of the Directoire model. showing long and slender lines.
 The most beautiful furs are at their beat when treated in q severe style. No applied trimming or bizarre cutting can improve Russian sable, silver fox or seal and such furs, particularly the iong-hatred ones are most effective if merely self-trimmed. The Directoire cape is possibly the newest ana most luxurious note in fur garments. The models shown in the windows of the fashionable shops ahow slight differ ences of line and finish, but the gen eral character of these garments Ia the same--a long, loose, slewaless cloak, whose shoulder line runs down almost to the elbow, The cloak Is opened all the way up the sides, but caught to- gether lightly under the arms Co pro- vide some slight semblRnce of q sleeve effect often the back ends in one long point. falling out over the train and the front in two shorter points. Other models show q gradual slope from middle front to middle back.
 Among the furs used in those gar afn ts hask t-Af ty. Hudson seal" which Is really not seal at all. but the fur of the French rat. which greatly resembles seal. but is considerably cheaper. The resenab- lance is So close that only an expert can tell the difference. Seal has once more become fashionable, but only rich women will be able to invest in any of the handsome seal garments shown In the windows. All the old furs. mink sable. chinchilla. caracul astrakhan, fox. lamb and others are in evidence and they are used with greater free dom of treatment than in former years.
 Long, close sleeves are used in the fur coats. both long ana short, which have the First Consul tendency. Short fur models are built on the same gen. eral lines that distinguish the longer models. with very often a hint of the Directoire in their design. Braid and buttons and cord ornaments formed of braid or covered with silk or satin are used upon these short coats even more than upon the long models. The lin- ings are chiefly in rich soft satin and in the exquisite middle tones instead of in white and vivid eolors. The gold yellows are very successful as lIninRs for sealskin and these same tones are also cleverly used in some handsome coats in brown caracui.
 Muffs are larger than ever this sea son, and usually nat and soft The handsomeet models are without trim ming, but as usual tn ere are some fam ciful models in combinations of fur. fur ana lace. fur and velvet. fur and ehif- ion and net.
 Fur will also be used quite exten- sively for trimming suits this season. Handsome cloth suits are shown in this fashionable shops, tastefuIly trimmed with bands of fur. The fur is em- ployed on the skirts aud collars. cuffs and waistcoats are made of 1t to ao with the coat. Fur fs also often used for trimming hats 10 be worn with such fur-trimmed suits
 one of the noval and striking feat ures seen at the horse show were elan plaid watstcoats. These small gar ments. which promise to become quite popular, are of clan plaid silk and modelled closely after a mans vest. Iney may De worn with any type or simply tailored cloth or worsted eos- tune that is developed in one tone, as. of course, the brilliant colors of the plaid would be certain to clash un- pleasantly with any light shade of red. blue or green.
 While the eostliest of fabrics were seen at the evening sessions of the horse show, they were made up into a type of costume which Is 6 cross be- tween that worn for afternoon rscep- tions and large weddings in churches and the regulation dinner gown, as they were more elaborate than the one while they differed radically from the other, in that the waist invariably was made high and the arms were fully covered.
 Speaking of waisteoats. 1t may be said. that ordinary silk and satin waisteoats are commonplace and not considered good style. WaistcoAts ot upholstery material are quite fashion able. on the other hand. These fashionable fabrics are somewhat rough and often have a thread of bull lion running through them. While brass buttons are at the height of style for both waisteoRts and coats, there Is the beginning of a movement to avoid them on some of the best suits. Waist coats on extra handsome broaacloth suits are fastened without visible but tons. They are bound with old gal loon, which has the disadvantage Of furnishing. but can be easily renewed
 Black for general wear ts evidently ta- sa kAAe