davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01

N" 1dEN long, cling1ng skirts are
the mode 1t Is quite as nee
wv essary to devote the utmost
w care to foot dressing as when
ankle-length runabout Co.'S
tunes are In the height of favor. Be-
cause the pump apparently reduces the
size Of the foot as well as aids in the
stimulation of the Spanish arch instep.
which does not always exist. It is deserv-
eddy popular. This summer Dame Fash
ION has many fancies in the matter of
such shoegear. Not only is she clinging
to her early love. the tan pump. which is
developed in every conceivable shade
from the darkest khaki to a yellowish
champagne. but she cherishes an afrec-
tion for deep brown shades to harmonic
with the tobacco brown tailor and 'elab-
crate afternoon costumes which are SO
strongly in evidence at the races. the
open-air horse shows. the exhibitions of
pet dog associations. and all the semi
public places where the Understandable
woman, representing Americas most ex-
elusive element OF society. may be viewed
at close range. Such pumps are OF cam
vas. soft kid Of ooze leather. and while
there is no suggestion Of clumsiness about
them they are on decidedly common-sense
lines. There is no good reason why grace
ouO comfort SnOuIQ not OS COIuDlllcu, anu,
happily for the woman with tender feet
much improvement has been made in
latter-day shoe designing to bring about
Q joining of these two qualities.
A new and fetching combination in
vomen's pumps intended for street wear
has a wide toe. very wide Cuban heel.
high arch and short vamp. Any woman
can be fitted with shorter pump on this
plan and can wear the high heel without
discomfort, as the wider toe provides am
pie room and the weight Is distributed
upon the ball Of the foot without jam
ming the toes forward into a narrow.
wedee-shaped space. To avoid clumsy
appearance the sole is trimmed close to
the toe.
While some Of the shoes designed par
ticularly for street wear are decorated
with the tiniest OF fabric or ribbon bows.
others carry large gun metal, silver or gilt
buckles. These are not especially con-
spicuous. and they certainly add tremen-
dously to the smart effect Of a costume.
Not only because black gowns are ex-
tremely fashionable. but because the feet
usually look best In that dusky color,
suede. ooze. patent and glossy black kid
pumps are very much worn. Some OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01

A radical departure in gown trim
mings. and one that is certain to win
popularity as soon as it comes well to
the front, is the use of gold bullion buc-
kles in lieu Of cabuchons. for the two
decorations are never used on one gar
ment. The buckles are about one and
a half by three inches in size and are
made of buckram. covered with satin. on
which the gold bullion Is so thickly en-
broidered in long darning stitch that not
a thread of the fabric shows. These
buckles are set at the waistline Of gowns,
on shoulder draperies and on sleeves.
They are especially effective on black
and white broadcloths. which are not
trimmed with any other color.
A good way to utilize pieces OF Dor
dered materials is to make them into
fronts for separate waistcoats. sucn as
are worn beneath mohair and pongee tai
lored coats. II the bordering Is suficlent,
" wide it should be turned sidewise ana
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01

magpie effects is evidenced in the large
number Of such contemporaries as
marQuisettes. grenadines and voiles,
made up in black and white and white
and black. a difference more marked than
distinguished. Many of these materials
are bordered and afford opportunity for
the carrying out of tunic draperies and
classic effects. They are perfectly
adapted for the modest notifications Of
the much-discussed ''split' skirt. for the
that fall apart and disclose a pleated
silk or chiffon underskirt. This idea
Will be extensively utilized during the
autumn and coming winter in the case
Of costumes combining smooth-faced
cloth and sicilienne. a material which is
to be one Of the fashionable fabrics of
the year.
Silk Sleeves Back Again.
To state that silk sleeves are back
again and very much to the fore may
sound like an Irish bull. Nevertheless,
the old-fashioned idea Of putting silk
sleeves in cloth dresses is one of the
coming fads. notably in elaborate after
noon costumes. These sleeves are gener-
ally Of the mousquetaire type. but not
always of mittaine length for while
some Of them extend well over the hand
others scarcely cover the ugly wrist
knuckle-peculiar to the thin woman
who can easily wear the directoire gowns.
When the silk sleeves do not wrinkle
over the arm, as the mOuSQuetaire
type should do, they are plain
and embroidered. In the case Of some
of the deliberately trimmed costumes, to
thus embellish the sleeves seems like
carrying GOALS to Newcastle" But
Dame Fashion, having torn herself away
from the simple lines, seems bent upon
going to the other extreme. and votaries
appear quite willing to follow her lead.
A Question Of Petticoats.
Women who have been practicing the
new method Of walking. adopted In defer
ence to the sheath-fitting skirt, which
hugs the limbs closely and threatens to
tie up the feet in the wad of cloth which
lies upon the ground. declare that to
wear a petticoat beneath one of them
Is an absolute impossibility. Therefore,
knickerbockers will at least be worn be-
meath the sheath skirts, though women
may not entirely give up what has long
been regarded as the most attractive de-
tail Of the feminine wardrobe.
Knickerbockers Fascinating.
II some Of the old-time leaders of the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01
Cheap Trousseau for
Midsummer Brides.

Although June is usually selected as the
most desirable month for a marriage cere-
mony. not every one is in the position to
say at just what date his or her wedding
shall take place. and SO frequently young
men and young women, too, who arc In
business. find that they must wait until
late In the season to suit Office arrange
ments or an employers convenience.
This postponement. in one way. is fortu-
nate for the bride, for in midsummer she
can PREPARE her trousseau at much less
cost than for a marriage in the month Of
roses.
Early spring finds dry goods and milli-
merry at top notch prices. which are consid-
erably modified a couple of months later
Styles. too. are settled by the middle of
July. which fact greatly lessons the dim
Guilty of deciding upon models For an OBJ
servant woman has had chance to prove
the stability of fashions. as 1t WERE even
though the trial has not been a personal
one. And thus supplied with information
q prospective bride knows just what she
likes without experimenting, often at ex-
pense she cannot afford
Economical Trousseau.
For the girl who has but a small sum
OF money to spend on her wedding ward
robe the first economy can be practiced on
the wedding gown. For an August cere.
mony there is no kind Of robe more ef-
fective or more practical than one of
dainty lingerie.
Net and simple lace are equally appro-
pirate. and ready-made dress Of anv ~
these fabrics is very much reduced at
present. II this costume is needed for i'm
mediate general wear after the marriage,
then the lingerie will be the better choice.
The net or lace robe should be chosen II
year.
Very pretty semi-made robes may be
bought for SO, and seamstress should
In q day complete such q dress. A lin
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01

little mice stealing in and out beneath the
petticoat. Quite the most fascinating
feature Of these satin dancing pumps is
the decoration of their vamps Some of
them are embroidered in butterflies and
small flowers done in pearl beading or
gold and silver bullion. Others are orna-
mented with rhinestone embroideries or
buckles, but as yet no one has followed
the example of a star in a well-known
New York theater who wears a pair of
dead black ooze pumps with vamps bear
ing her initials in rhinestones.
Black satin pumps have ever been con-
sidered immensely smart with black even
ing gowns. This year they are modelled
after those in white and similarly deco
rated. But as jet continues to be fash
ionable, and 1t Is rumored that violet con-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01
Fashion Notes and Novelties.

shaped into tight-fitting waistcoat. II
there are only scraps at hand the vest
should be made of pongee matching the
suit in color and the bordering utilized
for the short, pointed revers and the
flaps of the tiny hip pockets. Some OF
these wafstcoats are on distinctly man
nish lines, but quite long over the hips
and slightly cut away at the bottom.
The backs are of thin silk. in order that
the garment need be no warmer than 10
absolutely necessary.
Silver Ribbons and Tissue.-Silver
ribbons are seen on many of the latest
black hats developed in erin and gauge.
Sometimes the crown Is entirely swathed
with the transparent material, and the
twisted ribbon outlining the lower edge
of the crown where it joins the brim)
terminates at the left side in a large
looped bow. Another black hat, with
dip brim, has a crown covered with
silver tissue, yelled with black net, and
from one side springs willowy silvery
feather. An exceedingly effective coarse
black straw is trimmed with silver
aigrettes and tissue.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01

fore, not SO conspicuous. 1t is a we'll
known fact that the most colored hosiery
wears better and is cooler than black
That may be another reason why SO much
in tan. gray and blue is noticed. The
we'll bred woman does not go about the
streets Of city in openwork stockings.
although she may wear the gauziest of
silk or Isle In warm weather. In fact,
the thinner the hosiery. II not OF peek-a-
boo type. the more elegantly dressed does
the foot appear.
Stockings to be worn indoors are most
ornate Black and white ones are deco
rated in self and contrasting hues, chiefly
in floral effects. Some of the finer sort
have insertions and medallions Of lace set
into the instep and others are deliberately
beaded and spangled. Nhese, Of course,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01
~ or o. "4T AZZD .ST7T

lines to the figure. are those having tight
fitting backs terminating at the waistline.
and long. narrow and straight fronts
reaching far below the knees.
Black and Khaki.
Separately considered. black and khaki
costumes are immensely smart at the
moment. The black gowns are Of
smoothly finished broadcloth similar in
design to the elaborate afternoon cos
tunes. but worn without a suggestion of
contrasting color beyond the white about
the throat and. perhaps, In the trimming
of the large black hats which top them
Khaki colors are chosen for smart tot
let's of the same character. They are
embroidered chiefly with soutache and
trimmed with fancy braid. While num-
bers of costumes in these two colors are
in one tone. there are few garments on
which a touch of one or the other Of
them does not appear. Black is EN-
ployed in most instances on champagne,
green, white and blue, and the khaki on
grays, pinks. mauves and mulberry.
The Overgrown Cabachon.
Cabachons of many varieties are seen
on all the elaborate tailor-mades. They
are of cable cording. chenille. velvet, jet
and all manner Of fancy metals and
beads. From the modest proportions Of
an ordinarily sized hatpin head they have
grown to more than the diameter of a
silver dollar. Indeed one enthusiastic
importer of such goods asserts that they
are of the circumference of bread and
butter plate. Be that as It may, caba-
chons are certainly tremendously popu-
lar and add wonderfully to the smart eff
feet of a costume.
The Satin Vogue.
Satin is enjoying such tremendous
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01

kid and have heels covered with the same
material Where a costume combines
white and khaki. however. the white
pumps are sometimes trimmed with yell
lowish- brown kid. but they are never worn
with any other costumes. as they would
render the feet unpleasantly conspicuous.
Other novelties which are wonderfully
chic. but too decided in character for the
scarlet heels and buckle, of vivid green
in combination with white calfskin and
light tan. of pearl gray with large mother
of-pearl buckles, and of champagne or
maize suede with black trimmings and
buckles.
White satin pumps are the dancing foot
wear par excellence Of the current sum-
mer. And very stunning affairs they are.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01
Neckwear Novelties.

palmer types of lingerie waists-mean.
ing those without yokes-and serve to
lend a fresh appearance to blouse which
has been worn several days in success
sion.
SO great is the present vogue Of gilt
trimmings and gold banding that a large
amount of it will probably be in use dur
ing the autumn. The little tassels which
Eeckties have lost not an iota of their
prestige. Gilt fringe is employed for
the ends of sashes. gilt bands are used
as neckwear-going tightly about the
throat or experimenting pointed stocks
and gold gauze ribbons of great width
swath hat crowns. The gold quill is by
no means a novelty. but is likely to 60
through another season.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01

coat, and in nine cases out Of ten they
are covered with black satin. In most in
stances they are disc-shaped, varying in
size from the proportions of nickel to
that of silver quarter, but a few are
oval or olive shaped. and many show ap-
plications of satin matching the shade of
the cloth suit which they decorate.
Elaborate Afternoon Costumes.
While the continuous frightening of the
simply tailored suit coats is quite mark
ed and their shaping differs radically from
those Of last year, they bear but slight
resemblance to the coats which accom-
pany elaborate semi-tailored afternoon
costumes. These are of fine. lightweight
broadcloth In all the fashionable medium
dark shades. Some are champagne, bis
cult or taupe colored. but there are many
navy. electric and copenhagen blues. and
all tints of gray from London smoke to
pearl. The skirts of these costumes are
long. soft and clinging, some of them alb
solutely plain and others trimmed with
silk cable cording or soutache. They
have the raised girdle waist finishings
and are practically built on to self-col-
ored chiffon, lace or net blouses for the
so-called three-piece elaborate afternoon
costume actually consists of a coat and
princess or one-piece frock.
Cloth "Picture" Coats.
Afternoon costume coats are chiefly dis
tinguished for their eccentricities, for they
are alike only In SO far as they are short
wasted Sometimes the backs are SO long
that without trained skirt beneath them
they would almost sweep the floor but
they usually curve gradually away from
above the waistline in front Other coats
hang straight to the knees in front and
then are cut away sharply toward the
back. In direct contrast. and to be recon-
mended because they lend grace and lone
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01

comfortable
White pumps for the street are chiefly
of canvas and ooze. on the models Of both
the practical and the semi-dressy types
They are usually finished merely with
stitching and have tan leather heels or
they are bound and trimmed with white
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01

Just to look at them through a show
window would make a healthy girl Of
normal tastes long to dance. They are
fitted with the thinnest of soles and the
highest Of satin-covered Louis heels, and
their toes are just wee bit too finely
pointed to spell comfort; but who cares
for that If the feet suggest the proverbial
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01

trasts are going out of sartorial date, the
woman who contemplates the purchase of
such pumps would better have the jet
embroidered.
No longer Is it a hard and fast rule that
stockings shall match pumps. More fire.
quently the hosiery worn on the street
harmonizes with the skirt. and Is, there
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01

accompany the satin dancing slippers
worn with pailletted gauze bali gowns.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01
SELF-TRANSFERABLE
EMBROIDERY
DESIGNS.

This cut is a small reproduction Of an
embroidery pattern 1Ox15 inches. On re-
ceipt of 10 cents The Star will send the
large design by mail to any address. The
pattern may be transferred to any mate
rial for embroidering by simply following
the directions given below.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01

zenith century. known to fame
and to dressmakers and tailors
as the directoire, will un-
doubtedly dominate the styles
OF the coming autumn. In It's various
notifications the modern adaptation some
times gets quite far away from the orig1-
nal models. distinguished for their tight
skirts, short-waisted coats cut away at
the front and their collars high at back
and sides. The variations of these de-
tails are noted in the tailored coat and
skirt suits intended for practical pur-
poses and developed in such materials as
mohair and lightweight serge. in such
ultra-fashionable colors as mulberry.
slate green, taupe and bronze brown.
They are trimmed with fancy braids OF
kindred tone or with soutache-embroid-
cred black satin bands.
Black Satin Buttons.
More buttons are used on tailored coats
of the modified directoire type than have
been seen on outside garments within the
recollection of the oldest dressmaker
This does not mean that they are en-
ployed to close the fronts Of the coats,
for these are often blindly fastened, es-
peciaily II waistcoat Is employed The
buttons are set along the shoulder seams
they outline the fronts by being placed
trif1e back from the edge, they punctu-
ate the short waistline. the underarm
seams and the cuffs. Two dozen large
size buttons are not considered an ex-
travagantly large number to put on one
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01
Black Satin Buttons.

HEN long. clinging skirts are
the mode 1t is quite as nec-
Y essary to devote the utmost
care to foot dressing as when
ankle-len rynabO COS.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01
Startling Revelation Of
the New Directoire--
Elaboration Rife
Many Buttons The
Satin Vogue--Colors
and trimmings.

VIE French mode of the eight
zenith century. known to fame
and to dressmakers and tailors
as the directoire, will un-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-08-01

fitting backs terminating at the waistline
and long. narrow and straight fronts
reaching far below the knees.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1908-04-19
kE ,NQA gGhr GllnlRS qigpattb l
}dS ~ g EE lNla 0Gf Cal COLUMN

Fleming, was born in 1888. fTe wa,
yestryrnan in Henrico parish In 1754
He married Sarah Price. John WI
Hanson, 2. died in 1916. leaving chill
dren, viz: Thomas. q, John Price, Eliza
beth. Sarah, Mary. Lancaster and Re
becca Williamson, who married Thoma,
Bowles. OF Henrico county. September
81. 1903. Rebecca Williamson Bowler
died. and In January 20, 1895, Thoma,
Bowles married his second wife, Salt,
Rawlings. Thomas Bowles was bort
near Bow1es Mills, on the Hanover cid,
OF the Chickahominy River. on Novan.
Der 2. 17S1 Children by Rebecca VIII
Hanson were John Price wllliamsc.
Bowles. Lyddall Bacon Bowles, Ben1a
min. Maria and Mary Ann Bowias Is
Sallie Rawlings, James. Luvenia ant
.Rebecca. John Price Williamson
Eowles married Louise Priddy. of Hem
rico county, In 1885. and In 1899 III
moved to Missouri. He was one III
those dauntless pioneers who delighted
In the conflict with the wilderness. and
who have done so much to spread thu
fame OF Missourians as bold type OF
Americans. After the death OF his wife
he married Melvina Carter. and have
many descendants in Missouri and Den.
yer. Col. am the oldest son OF Melvins
Carter and John Price Williamson
Bowles. VIII appreciate any informa.
ton you can give me about Judith
Fleming's ancestors.
HENRY LEE BOwLEs.
Denver. Col.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1908-04-19

to serve the purpose. This wire
brought the news and imagination sup
piled the rest. The information reach,
ed City Point about midnight, and O
salute of 100 guns. was fired at once.
The newspapers Of the 10th said that
Lee had surrendered to Sheridan at
Pamplin Depot, but to whom and
where were OF minor Importance
compared with the fact itself It con-
tanned a military directory, which To-
Gated the headquarters OF General
George L. Hartsuff at Centre Hill;
those of General Ferrero at the Ras-
land House, on Sycamore Street. ana
those> of Colonel Cowles. the provost
martial. at the seminary OF Rev. a, j.
Leavenworth. on Market Street. It had
press notices OF It's first issue. show
ling that editors even In strenuous
times appreciate kind word from
others OF their calling
There were two articles about Gen
teat Lee which spoke OF MIN as great
soldier and stainless gentleman
There was q malicious fling at Presi-
dent Davis, saying that 'the wicked
flee when no man pursueth, but news
papers always have to abuse somebody,
and as Mr.. Davis was both absent and
Epowerless, abuse Of him was safe, u
not sane, There was a sort OF card or
advisory proclamation, signed by about
100 OF the old gentlemen residing In
PETERSBURG. requesting the people TO
abstain from any acts OF violence and
to accept the situation and make the
best OF 1t, OF all the slgners Of this
card only four are now living, The
local editor recorded the fact that Mr..
Lincoln paida second visit to the city
on the It'll Of April. and tells Of his
Joking at Centre Hill" about Grants
artillery having attended sufficiently to
the matter OF rent 1T gave the nuns
her OF ratlons issued to the citizens,
but fearing thls might hiring down a
congressional Investigating committee,
/ II fastened to lull the sense Of thrift
| In tho objector, by saying that these
rations We're from stores ca ptured here.
and that they did not cost the govern
Iment one cent, /.
1T called attention to the fact that
lsJarpatt'a Hotel had baens onenei by
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1908-04-19
Stuart and Pelham,
Editor OF The Times Dispatch

EDITOR OF The Times Dispat tell:
Slr-I have read With the rrAatest
Interest the two articles In YOUR Con- S
federate Column by H. M. Matthews.
OF Pikesville, Md. The first. a. trihmfe,
70 Major james Rreathed, OF the Stuart
of Major John Pelham. No one can
read the short story of these lives
Without being proud of the race from
Which they sprang.
i. have not for a long time read d
moro pathetic incident than the de-
scription of General j, Il. b. Stuart as
he bade farewell to NIL that was mortal
of "the gallant" Pelham. 4
A5 How high General Stuart's admira-
ton forethis splendid young officer was
and how fondly he cherished his mem-
DRY is shown by the fact that he named
his only daughter after him. IS /,
! have in my possession a letter
from General Stuart. dated "Headquar-
,ters Cavalry Corps, December 1 8, lS63,''
written to his cousin, the Hon. Alex.
H. I'll. Stuart, which he closes with the
following words u have u little daugh-
ter two months old named Virginia
Pelham" iff,3 4 M
First his native State. for which he
gave his life, and then t'the gallant
Pelham who did the snme thing for
Alabama, The annals Of the world
do not present two hraVer, no bier and
sgentlcr spirits3than Stuart and Pelham
ALIEN. r, ROBERTSON.g
sSb staunton, a. lA-nrll 20. ~ 0s,