New-York tribune., 1908-09-13

and trimmed with many black feathers This was
worn at the concert at the Kursaal last night by
TALL slender. black haired woman, who wore a COS
tune of thin black stuff with wondrous grace 1t
was of semi transparent black crepe de chine The
skirt hung a little high wasted was gathered
so little under the belt and fell into beautiful full
ness at the hem. Under the false hem OF heavy
silk were strung little weights that threw the gown
into graceful folds. The corsage was pretty
melange of tue, white lace black, and seduc-
tive gnpses of the palest shades Of color imagin-
able IN ribbon insets under lace tulle, nearly
hidden as.though they not expected to be seen.
vet the whole the result OF much thought
Wonderful 1aces embroideries and bits Of gold and
silver lace are introduced into the trimming scheme
in this half-hidden fashion. What subtlety applied
to clothes! And how charming.
Some particularly beautiful costumes were noted
at the dance last night One, Of soft pink stuff.
was hemmed widely with pink pornpadour ribbon
From the high belt OF the material started
ribbon bretelles that passing over the shoulders.
held fast under large buttons of lovely cut
steel set inside gathered frills Of black velvet
Ends of the ribbon fell to the hern the skirt II
was simple but wonderfully effective Somewhere
on the and in the front Of the corsase were
more buttons trimmed in the same way. gray
crepe de chine was hemmed with gray silk
there was belt Of it-and silk hemmed the wide
oversleeyes Long shirred sleeves ond the chemi-
sette were OF gray tule, enhanced with threads Of
silver embroidery The hat was Of turquoise blue.
and pearls and turuuoses strung the neck A
the hem with a six-inch shirring Of velvet. a BIT
darker In tone. It cut in a wide hennmed cir
cular FORM and the slender figure Of the wearer
swayed In the movements of the dance, her grace
full limbs were moulded by the ciinging folds like
those Of an antique statue. A little of the velvet
rose up on to the low bodice clasping the creamy
white lace of the guinp like the petals OF flower
or the same coors the great hat-the velvet
facing above the yellow hair much darker.
ELABORATE STOCKINGS.
curious dingy yellowtsh- brown. called Isabella,
is much liked in hats and gowns It has this name
from q certain queen who vowed her linen should
not be changed till country with which she
at war should captulate. The siege long
that linen became the shade that has
since gone by this in France 1t IS extraor-
dlnariIy fetching when trimmed with black.
certain Rue de Ia Paix house has sent hero
some stunning evening coats made OF heavy lus-
trous satin They oddly trimmed down the
inside OF the fronts with fots of fine white linen.
edged with narrow Valenciennes lace.
There is hint OF the return OF the bolero in
costume OF strawberry cashmere The loosely
pleated skirt hangs straight from the high belt;
tiny bolero that reaches to the bottom Of the belt
is of strawberry flet. banded with CLOTH forming
squares; the crossing OF each one is set large
fiat velvet-covered button It closes under a strip
OF the cloth, frilled either edge with knife
pIeated silk. The guimp and the second sleeves
are of tulle of the shade. set IN circlng
tucks.
Several costumes that have appeared here since
the August openings show sort OF glorifed
bolero-a little coat that ends at the waistllne
with long. tablike ends attached to the back.
The fronts have short Directore revers; it buttons
double breasted.
There is certain to be reaction soon In the ex-
treme length OF the skirts. A French countess.
famous for the beauty and the originality OF her
gowning wears here all day short skirted cos
tunes It Is only in the evening that she appears
in long skirts.
In the toilets OF the Ostend mOndaine stockings
play an important part. They are of extraordi-
nary richness and beauty. laced and embroidered
as though meant TO be-as they are-seen by all
the world IN the high wind that futters the soft,
Snlined skirts. which prevented from rising
by their cunningly weighted hens: but the winds
wind and twist them into close circng folds that
display the pretty shoes and stockings.
The latest fancy in wrist bags IS to have them
match the costume. They small. for with the
slender silhouette large bag is out of har-
mony. The new sleeves tight that even the
smallest handkerchief refuses TO be tucked inside.
These bags just large enough for key.
the handkerchief and the tiny mirror and timer
powder puff. The return of the old-fashIoned key
ring is the latest fad.
MARGARET ALICE FRIEND.