The San Francisco call., 1908-08-30

change. This change has been
felt in all quarters of the globe
where the attire of women, is of any
consequence. The first of these
changes caused but slight comment
and no alarm, but marked disturb
mace took place when three dress
makers models made their appear
ance at the Longchamps racecourse in
gowns of the most startling and ex-
traordinary cut Excitement ensued.
and as a consequence this particular
style of gown has been pictured,
featured. caricatured and talked about
to such an extent that its death knell
sounded almost with its birth.
What pity! For who knows what
great future awaited this child of
fashions fancy. other faGs have
come and gone; others just as. daring
and extreme. Take, for instance, the
once well known pullbaek. when elas-
tic bands drew the fabric close to the
body: or the greater absurdity. the
hoop skirt with its bands of wire hold
ing the materials at a distance from
milady's limbs. These lasted, and
were popular. Dame Fashion must
needs bow her head with grief at the
untimely death of the directoire, her
new born fancy. For the slashed
skirt can never now be with US. The
notoriety attendant upon the gown will
prevent any refined woman from adopt
ing a fashion so extreme. What is
the reason. anyway, for slashing a
skirt2" "Or, where did such an idea
originate2" are the questions repeated
ly asked. Why do we wear bows at
our throats, or buttons ON our sleeves7
It is a fad or fancy, nothing more;
an attempt TO satisfy the constant de-
mand for something new. AS to the
origin of the directoire. a few words
at this time will not be amiss.
The directoire, though bearing
French name, is not of French birth.
1t was with the ancient Greeks that
this style OF garment first found life
The "tanagra," as one of the models
of the much talked of directoire is
called, received its name from an old
town in Greece near Thebes, where re-
cent excavations have brought to light
terra Gotta figures known as the tana-
gra hgurine, which supplied the ideas
from which modern gowns were
evolved. Twenty centuries ago these
gowns were worn by the beauties of
the day. This 'tanagra" model. as it
is now worn, is made of softest satin
or of some equally clinging fabric. The
body is swathed from bust to knees
IN its soft, graceful folds, which clearly
define the lines Of the wearer's figure,
though hardly more so than the prin-
cesse type of gown. The underskirt.
which divides in front, or in other
words is slashed up the front, is the
startling feature of this costume,
though it is not so pronounced as to
appear at ell immodest AS the over
drapery is eleverly weighted and held
in place by elastic bands, the skirt dra-
perry is forced to flow in a divided line
in front, giving a glimpse of a dainty
foot and ankle when the wearer walks
The overskirt and bodice drapery are
in one. and after wrapping the form
as described, the material falls in long
clinging lines into slender train from
the left shoulder. It is truly beau
tiful creation with its classic atmos-
phere. and, like all these new models,
possible only under the eye and hand
of an adept, for none but an artist
can arrange such draperies.
A few centuries later and there were
changes. Just before the time of
Marie Antoinette the bellies of the day
the stately danes of the old Frenci.
court-wore the great round hoopskirts
which We're also used many years after
by our grandmothers when they were
girls. Most austere and dignifed were
these garments. Then came the reac-
tion, during the reign of terror whose
END finally beheld the masses in con.
troll. Wild reckless days were those o,
1898; days of daring and freedom from
restraint in every particular, and witt
the new life came the new garments
as radical a departure from the attir.
Of bygone centuries as was the direc
tory from the forms of government
which had prevailed in France prio
TO the organization of that body. Thes
gowns were resurrected from pas
years ana worn Dy the mefNe1l1s1Ses'
>.n- Iasclnating women OF that period
Gay days indeed. when women wer
noted. above all, for their beauty an.
style This was the time and thes
were the women who have given to u
today the ideas for the fashionabl
gown to which. while perhaps no
adopting it in its entirety, we fai
willing victims for its charming. grace
ful lines.
The gowns worn at this period wer
very daring and alluring. displaying
freely the limbs of the wearers be
meath the airy diaphanous draperies
The coats Of this date are easily recog
nized by their short fronts. lons
straight narrow coat tails long tigh