The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1908-11-05

and covered with a tiny frill of black
draped in a graceful manner, being
caught in the back seam in sweeping
i folds. From the waist to the hem in
the back is a perfectly straight panel.
detached from the rest of the skirt,
! which forms the train On the bodice
| there was a yoke of ecru crochet lace
| bordered with a band of floss stitching
in tan and red on the cloth set at in
| tervals with blue buttons. The collar
was of black net and the sleeves of
! double blue net set very far back in
| square armholes.
i Satin is used a very great deal, but
! it is the pliable liberty satin in most
cases. not the thick, stiff kind that
| once held sway.
| Laces are used but they must har-
monte with the color scheme. They
may be black, as the old directolre cos
| tunes We're frequently in all black
! or had saShes in black and this Gus
4 tom is retained in the revival, or they
may be dyed to match the gowns. Sell
| dom is cream or a contrasting color
used. The chiffons and all the accessO-
ries are black or dyed to match the
costume.
One of the most attractive new
stocks which combines a sort of yoke
frames the face like flour petals. Ii
is made of fine wash bobbinet and Va
Tenderness There are two full plated
frills, they are plated together and
edged with valenciennes. This lies
close about the face and a deep double
frill like it falls over the yoke and
shoulders and a ribbon to hide the
joining passes around and is tied be-
hind This style is not good one for
a short neck
For jabot of washable net, cut in
a STRIP, 22 inches long and wide
enough to cover the chest after it has
been pleated up very fine, this is laid on
both sides of a tiny insertion fastened
to the stock ia the middle and hello
with a long bar pin, or large brooch
A narrow satin ribbon may be passed
under the scarf and brought around
the neck and tied with a smart bow IN
the back.
1t is astonishing how the. designers
have modified al the extremes OF fash
ions to American needs and tastes
The princess gown is nothing like the
gown once seen, the empire has been
( changed so it is practical for street as
Wei as house
A costume in brown was recently
made in d street empire style. The
emDira line above the waistline was
accentuated by bands of taffeta. The
| nj
low the shaped Waistl!ne; it had a
slight sweep all about but could nave
been shorter if desired. There was q
turnover collar at the neck which was
! low to be worn over a lace stock
The empire gown is the correct mode
for evening wear; and the plain one
| piece dress is the dress for ordinary
day wear. With them will be worn
all sorts of odd wraps and cloaks.
1t is a fad just now to have coat
or cloak for each gown. The gown is
often made at home and the coat at
the tailors.
| The directoire girdles of satin tafte-
ia or faille ribbon, is in keeping with
the rest Of the graceful flowing INES
| Of the seasons styles.
! ClOSelE-nttlnE underwear IL ie
cessity of the seasons directOire styles,
and a complete revolution is shown IN
al patterns.
! Long sleeves have been decreed FOR
| all the newest waists. Many have
DC;nted cuffs and the whole sleeve and
woke, especially OF waists and gu'mpes
! to be worn under One-plece costume
and entirely of bands of insertion ana
embroidered muslins with many frllls
! Of Valensiennes lace.
! Many of the severely tailor-made
models have the sleeves set in as
plainly as "A mans coat, without any
| fullness at the armhole. The armhole
| is -ealls- large and usually concealeo
' by fiat braid.