The Montgomery advertiser., 1908-11-22
Fashions and Pads

New York, Nov. 21.-There are signs of warning appearing in the latest models imported from Paris, which clearly indicate that the Directoire style will probably not have exclusive sway in ruling the seasons fashion. Touches of other periods are appear ings. and some styles are taken from the period of Empress Eugenie, as for instance the burnoOs and elaborate mantles. Some of these large wraps have been adapted and made into stun ming driving coats. One of those shown at a fashionable shop the other day. was a dark gray and checked English wool, large of sleeve and Vo- luminous in body, and has cuns and collar of Hungarian red cloth. small turbans. also reminiscent-Uf the period of Napoleon III are worn with these wraps.
 In no respect, probably, has fashion changed more radically than in the shape and cut of collars. The low round collars of the past summer are gone and now all gowns and waists are made with stocks reaching high at the back and sloped in the front 10 give as much comfort as possible. The straight collar Is not nearly so fash ionable as the one made in points, the tIps of which quite touch the ears. All over lace. net or strips of insertion sewed together are much used Tor these high collars and the small guimpe which Is a feature of the newest gowns. In order to give the correct line to the front of the collar 1t is hollowed out as much as needed for the curve of the throat This can be done by shaping the collar or by having a series of tiny lengthwise tucks crossing the front for A space of two or three inches. If the tucks are small enough, they leave no fullness where they terminate. The material gathered up in the fold can be dwindled to nothing at the sides of the collar. Sometimes a narrow band of velvet or silk Is used for the top finish of the collar. It is the fash ion to have trimming on the collar, and frequently a color Is introduced with pleasing effect.
 One of the most striking features in decorations at the present time are ribbon roses, which are so popular as a trimming for hats and are also~used in other places. One of the ways in which these roses are employed Is to decorate the Empire scarfs which are now so fashionable. Strictly speaking an Empire scarf is a perfectly straight affair, unshaped and untrlmmed save by a fringe or embroidery. There are new scarfs. however, which are quite broad and are taken in between the shoulders right in the middle of the back being pieated together under an enormous rose The scarf Is then drawn around the figure below the shoulders and tied over the bust, whore there Is another large rose of silk, satin or velvet. The roses are of eX actly the same material as the scarf and the latter needs no other garni- ture.
 The large ribbon rose Is also quite attractive as a skirt decoration. One such was shown the other day at fashionable function. It was on a chiffon frock in pale gray. The frock was trimmed with braiding in black soutache. The gown was tucked vertf- cally from the bust line to some dis tance below the hips. Then there was a plain interval, and beneath this a band of braided chiffon. on which was set crushed sash, of silk, going around the skirt just below the knees and threading under a long back panel of the braided chiffon. The ends of this sash were then brought through the centre of this back panel and formed into a large silk rose.
 Now Is the time for every mother who has & daughter old enough ito come out" to think of the wardrobe of the young debutante. In addition to luncheon gowns, calling gowns. street suits and house dresses she will need ball gowns. Of course. tradition die tates that the debutante wear nothing too elaborate for her years. that vel vets and satins be tabooed and that lace must be scarce and not too hand sonei but this year fashion has re-