Evening star., 1908-01-11

at tea time the other evening chic little
friends came in for a cheering up. After
she had settled herself comfortably she
looked at me very seriously and announc-
ed. You must have d skunk toque.
protested that ii was a fur whose OdOr
i Getested and that | had a sable toque
10 match my sable tie and muff- But,
she continued dogmatically, every one in
Paris is wearing a skunk toque, no mat
ter what other fur she happens to have.
/ And it must be rather high toaue, quite
plain save for an ornament of osprey and
d small chou TO hide its stems.
THE only alternative she added. is a
hat banded with fur in which nestle
small flowers. The very large cloche is
Nntirely done" she concluded impressive
ly. Although | have habit of always
believing everything this particular friend
tells me. / could not help expressing
some measure OF doubt that the popular
ity of the bell shape had waned SO com
plctely and abruptly so she amended her
I verdict. Well, it is done in quite the
| highest circles OF artistic costume. All
the hats are small and trimmed with os-
! prey or groups of feathers. And don t
| forget'-she poised a tea cake in the air
| to increase the Importance of her dictum-
| you must have toque of skunk 1t
seems a pity. as / do not like skunk. but
| have no doubt that / shall ultimately
yield to the force of fashion and appear
in the latest piece of furry headgear
The Last Word of Fashion.
The last word in the matter of cut and
style is accorded to the tailor who can
successfully turn out, the chic little loose
coat of the moment.
The cut is everything here, where the
fit is no fit. if you follow me. About the
shoulders and upper part the fit must be
absolute Below this line the coat is left
to fall away in a degaSe fashion, winch.
allied with = semi-empire ciose-ciinSinS
skirt is most captivating. When MADE
by a master hand the effect is all that is
desira ble hut when it is otherwise what
worlds away. Nothing must interfere
with the line in the front or at the sides.
All fullness or vague drapery, sash ends
or seams are reiegated TO the back. And.
apropCs of coats the frilled jabotS that
suddenly blossomed forth when the cut
away model insinuated itself upon COM
plaisan world are over Now all that Is
permitted to adorn my ladys throat are
a small neat bow and a narrow Dand at
the base of the collar or blouse or shirt
waist, or maybe a couple OF craVat enuS,.
finished off with a tassel.
As for the general lines of the costume.
the shoulder is still slopng and as siurred
over as possible. We may take it for
granted that. while the hat brims are in
clined to droop. while the waist line is
PASSED over and hips are nowhere. we
shall not see raised sleeves or any hard
defniteness of line anywhere. When the
hats DecoIiic tiptilSu Shu PS'hs aSdiH
then will our general garb regain its
sprightliness and crispness. quite nov
city though. in the way of ceinture has
appeared. consisting Of broad silk sash.
which is swathed around the lower part
of the figure below what is usually the
accepted waist line, with knotted ends
either in front or behind. The result is
not pleasing and at the best this ar
rangement is only possible to slight fig
ures. Still il is the latest development of
sash art The most attractive method of
putting on sash is to preserve the
natural waist line i'll front and raise the
line at the back.
The Old-Time Bodice.
We are slowly but surely drifting to-
ward the tight-fitting bodice. This alarm
ing piece of news does not mean that