Cameron County press. [volume] (Emporium, Cameron County, Pa.) 1866-1922, 1908-03-05

uoh' concluded to con-
struct it myself. / secured all the ma
terial including sand, gravel, boulders
and cement, and set to work upon the
frame
The frame was made of one-inch
plank of different widths. The ac-
cOmpanying line cut gives a good idea
of the method used in constructing
this frame The outside frame was
ten feet long and 21a feet wide, with
the ends bolted together, as indicated
in f. The ends measured four feet
ten inches by 21a feet. The length of
the inside frame at the top was eight
feet 7A inches, at the bottom eight
feet IL inches; the ends at the top
three feet ten inches and the bottom
three feet four inches. This frame
was 2% feet deep. The figure shows
how the cleats arS put on to hold tho
ends in place. l used eight one-half-
inch bolts for the outside and set two
by twos, so the bolts would reach.
BY making the top of the crate
larger than the bottom the wall at the
bottom is thicker, thus making the
inside wall slope out. This gives the
thawing ice a chance to rise. Wedges
should be used on end boards of in
side crate and small nails for mailing
on the cleats for the ends of the in
side crate These should be nailed
just so they hold the boards in place.
l used rough lumber for building the
crates, but would advise the use of
planed lumber instead.
After getting the material in shape
be sure the tank is properly located,
as it cannot be moved about when
once in place as a wooden or steel
tank. Place the pipes where they
cannot freeze. This is very impor-
tant. Level off and stake the founda-
tion about six inches larger than out
side measurements of inside crate and
dig six or eight inch trench about this.
deep enough to be below frost. This
will leave u block of dirt. Take enough
off this to leave the foundation five or
SIX inches deep, when concrete is put
on, and see that there are no soft
places in it. In this trench put layer
of clean boulders and concrete, using
uuscreened gravel in parts of one to
ten; then another layer of boulders
and concrete, and so on, almost to the
top of the trench, making the concrete
richer of cement as the top is neared.
The top should be made of concrete in
the proportion of one to six or seven.
After the trench has been filled con-
crete alone should be used, one to six,
and filled to the proper height for the
bottom of the tank. This should be
leveled off and the crate set on this
foundation.
After the space between the inside
and outside crates has been divided,
it is ready to fill Mix enough con-
crete, one to six, to make a siX-inch
layer around the space. Do not use
coarse gravel for this. After the con-
crete has been tramped down place a
No. galvanized wire around the
space, so it will be about the center of
the wall when completed, as shown at
A. Secure the ends and see that the
wire does not come close to che edge
of the wall any place. Put in the
next layer of concrete and the wire
in the same way, and so on to the top.
| lamp each layer we'll, so there will
be no holss in it, Let this stand about
| "a hours, then remove the inside crate,
being careful not to break the wall
| in any place.
The outside wall should not be dis
| turbed until the inside is finished,
says the writer in Orange Judd Farm
| er. Plaster the inside one-fourth
| inch thick with sand and cement, one
to three, beginning at a corner and go.
ing around the tank. Plaster the bot
! tom next. Care must be taken in
plastering the corners where the sides
meet not to leave any place where it is
| liable to leak afterward. The bolts can
then be removed from the outside and
the crate taken off. The outside
should be plastered, including the top
of the walls With brush and little
| pure cement and water the entire sur.
face should be washed this to stop
any small pores in the wall. Let this
stand for about 12 hours before letting
in the water. If the work has been
carefully done there will be no leak.
ages and the tank will be cne that will
last century and still be in good con
dition.