The San Francisco call., 1908-10-11

k-& feel that they must go into mourning.
IGI8tN1H that it not only shows respect to the
tSAy1sASE who has died. but that a
protection themselves
Like many another question is an easy task
to choose a mourning outfit when the purse is light.
while if does not have to be considered the
is made easy The first thing that be
considered in choosing materials is quality. Nothing
poorer investment in the clothes line cheap
Ions and satisfactorily. While the cost of going
into mourning may be considerable. it is
afterward the gown may worn on almost
occasion, the suit also doing duty
nothing like the variety needed hats gloves para
soils and The various accessories.
Mourning clothes of today much depressing
and easier than formerly. direct ref
erence hats and bonnets There may be said to be
almost touch OF coQuetry given to the hats many
beNritchingly shaped trimmed end the short
wells becomngly draped. One seldom sees the
long crepe veil worn over the face Instead
transparent veil has border Of crepe silk and
the long veil is draped at the back of toque
The long wells be of crepe espe-
cialy for the purpose brussels There nothing
nuch richer or handsoer than crepe used either for
veil or for trimming, and 1t is better finish, softer,
wears better and is less expensive than formerly.
Deep mourning is supposed to be only
months or year, and then is lghtened decidedly.
There doubtless many pay no attention
dictates fashion but yield instead to their
inclination the depth mourning for q
much longer period. People in deep mourning should
wear plain clothes; elaborate trimmings glossy cloths
and silks all out Of place.
In woolens, Henrietta cloth probably leads and IS
beautiful when trimmed with crepe voies grenadines
mousselines and India Silks we'll heavyeduIl
lustrous silks. all up well For the
street, serge dull black are the thing
In hats Of the exaggerated styles should he
chosen rather those moderate in size and stIe
For with SUITS ribbon sometimes tulle
make pretty suitable trimming while for more
ressy occasions beautiful aigretes wonderfully
soft in effect; also paradise plunes
So much for general ideas For a woman of linn
ited who is in mourning the first investment
probably viii be street suit for general wear unless
she happens TO have black skirt and separate black
coat which she with black blouse of some
kind until she make suit herself An excellent
quality Of serge cheyiot may be bought for s1.75
yard Seven yards will needed. The sponging will
TO S5 cents extra Then there lining for the
Jacket which may be either of satin yard or
the Corsica taeta, which has twill gives excel
lent wear which comes for 50 cents or 81 yard.
yards Will
So far the cost has reached $500. The findings
proDably VIII come TO 50, which should be
allowance, which makes the considerably under
$25 Now. If a woman make such a suit
fully II viii equal the ready made ones priced at from
$50 TO $65. and VIII give splendid service
The skirt should be short and may be either plated
or gored While it is predicted that style
viii not be so muqh worn. there number of new
and pretty moees from which to choose. or a gcred
model viii look well In they run from nine
TO nineteen The plated skirt suit shown with
this article is suggested being practical
style all through. The coat is good lines and
needs no trimming not collar. cuffs. pocket
laps.
Several pretty one piece gowns are shown suitable
for wear at home or at informal gathering.
musical or the like One is the order princess
lower skirt is plain and long upper part ends In
deep tabs bound with crepe Covering the seams
IN unbroken line tree-quarter inch straps Of
crepe The low round neck and the long tight sleeves
are Of sheer black tucked Enousseline.
Two other equally pretty styles are shown the en-
pire frock being made OF yoile, combined with soft
faie in dead black for the upper part also the upper
parts Of the sleeves. The button molds are covered
with crepe and miiners crepe outline
the turnover collar and the upper sleeves
The chemisette and lower are of sheer NOUS
Eelne in white. third gown is Of Corsica
tafeta made in of the circular skirts with
bands OF the put to form tunc effect The
bodice is plain and tight fitting which means It must
be boned and has shaped strips crepe inlet which
make rich finish The long, close sleeves have a
shaped piece Of crepe let in from top bottom and
between the elbow and wrist the goes over the
crepe in bands in three pieees these are held
IN place by buttons. The girdle Of folds of the
crepe and SILK and skirt bodice attached under
this girdle.
Three dresses in all suggested this mourning
outht-the first, the suit with many blouses
as one chooses 10 have; the second. a dressy gown
chosen from one OF the three described:
and the third simple, attractive piece for
general a home
This last would be pretty of nuns yelling
The skirt IS one Of the circular gored models and
untrimmed II cngs the figure In the most grace
ful way yet there is tghtness any,
adere The front gore Of the is continued up the