davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-23

a skirt which has the appearance of being
split but actually is Joined, and one tnat
seems to be whole but in reality is split
and worn over taffeta drop of an exact
ly matching color. In that event the
split garment becomes merely tunic to
which even the society for the prevention
of vice could not reasonably take excep-
tion. The sheath skirt, which is actually
toined all round, is an ideal model Tor
ordinary walking purposes, as 1t Is tour
inches from the ground, untrimmed ana
finished around the bottom with rather
broad hem. Necessary fulness Is given
to the back by means of an inverted
double box pleat. Where the seams are
onened at either side similar pleats are
set in. SO that when the two edges are
drawn apart by the movements OF the
skirts wearer, pleats instead Of SIX
stockings are to be seen. The outer
skirt. which is supposed to be worn over
a drop. consists Of four sections arranged
in pieated cores.
1t Will Not Sag.
The point most in favor about the
American sheath skirt as at present
developed is that 1t is superior to the
eored or flare type, in that 1t Is un-
likely to sag at the sides. This Is
something that the woman who does not
order n tatlormade costume with every
new moon considers of prime Importance.
Seams directly at the back and on each
side of a cloth skirt, unquestionaoy
hold 1t In position, and II, In aoaition
70 this feature, such skirts are relieved
from all strain by the presence OF
set of inverted pleats at back and Sides
thew are safe to keep their shape under
ordinary conditions. This rule, of course,
applies wholly to the walking length
skirt for the question of sagglng Is
not of vital Importance where long
skirt is concerned.
The Twin Skirt Idea.
To have two skirts for one coat is
by no means a novel scheme, for 1t has
long been the custom of the woman VINO
aims to dress smartly on a limited In
come TO order annually one expensive
tailored coat and with it short or
walking skirt, as well as one that is
trained and intended solely for conven-
tional occasions, thus making the coat
do duty for two purposes, on the prin-
cinle that any coat will outwear TWO
SKIRTS. Since the long skirt has again
come into general vogue. however, tailors
are realizing that by making up hand-
someIy trimmed and moderately priced
three-piece suits of this character that
women will gladly buy them. In most
instances the two skirts are Of broad
cloth. diagonal or hard-fnished worsted
matching the coat, but If the outer gar
ment is elaborately trimmed with black,
the long skirt may quite properly be OF
black satin. This has the raised girale,
and when 1t is mounted upon a black
or white lace or net bolster" bodice
it practically becomes a second dress with
nothing about it suggestive Of make
shift.
The Autumn Tints.
With the vogue of coats and skirts per-
tanning to the olden times there has been
revived a fancy for those quaint old hues
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-23

who would carry it naturally and not
with an assumed swagger. But the coat
is eminently pratical in that it would
accord well with long skirt Of satin or
cloth of precisely the color of the suit
veIvet-faced Fabrics.
Because of its soft and clinging char
acteristics, velvet and velveteens are sud
denly coming into vogue, especially for
the more elaborate order of tailormades,
although they win be worn in short
severe suits during the winter by girls
who are within several years of making
their initial bow to society. For after
noon reception costumes, those In cnir-
fon and Lyons velvet viii, Of course,
have the long skirt slightly trimmed Win
chenille, Jet or gold bullion, ana eoats
of any length from SO to b2 inches,
usually bearing Directoire earmarks, and
always with full length sleeves "hen
velvet is employed solely as a material
for a street suit. its trimming VIII De
simpler and Of the satin band or fancy
braid order, as was the case last season
with the comparatively few costumes
worn Of that fabric.
TaiIormade Suit Accessories.
Much Of the smart effect Of any tailor
made suit depends upon its accessories.
| Needless to say, anything savoring OF
the Directoire should not be accom-
| panied by a linen collar and stin little
| tie. These belong to what is known
as the English type Of street suit, mean
ing the severely tailored box or semi
| fitting coat and gored or pleated skirt,
minus trimming. With the French model
there should be a high lace collar or
a chiffon stock-giving the desired soft
| effect about the chin-and the frilly
lacey 'front.' in addition to the wrist
rufies. which should be Of finest hand
weave or hand embroidery immaculateiy
| white.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-23

she put 1t on when she goes out to teach
school, to write shorthand, to report So
ciety functions and suffragette meetingsF
And If she does adept it, will 1t cling
like a postage stamp from waistline to
knees and will it have an actual open
ing at the left side calculated to reveal
a silk stocking and kid shoetop? The
tallors, anxious to have on hand sufficient
stock to promptly meet the demands OF
their customers whenever that momen-
tous query shall be answered, are mean
while experimenting with the skirt and
developing what, In their opinion, is the
one proper for the American woman to
wear.
Solving the Problem.
To solve this problem they are making
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-23

notifications In coats are of immense Inn
portance to the woman who must always
get her tailored ready-made suit altered.
The coat, cut all In one piece, not includ-
ing the sleeves, of course, would be liable
to suffer greatly in grace of outline were
the back and side forms to be tampered
with. The other model, on the contrary,
while not so close to the Directoire origi-
nails, could readily be altered, as the hip
sections need only be tride drawn above
or below the short-waisted line and the
trimming readJusted.
The Sheath Skirt.
The burning question of the hour is,
naturally, the sheath skirt VIII the
American woman adopt it for evening,
afternoon, shopping and business2 VIII
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-23

One Of the important questions which
the tailors and modistes in Paris are now
asking themselves and each other is, will
the American woman take up the Direc-
toire fashion in its entiretyf The answer
which is given by many of the American
taiIors and dressmakers is that she viii
not. They declare, out Of the wisdom OF
their experience in endeavoring to please
her, that she will not, as class, harbor
any of the extremes. They say, however,
that here, as everywhere else In the civil
lized world, there are women who will
carry the fad to its uttermost limits.
Nevertheless 1t is the consensus of opinion
that the American woman is not adapted
either by figure or nature for these ex-
treme modes. She walks too quickly and
takes steps that are too short. The sheath
skirt demands leisurely, gliding gait and
its long tailed coat does not accord with
jerky movement of the hips.
The Nodded Types.
There will be Directories, Of course, but
of greatly modified type. In these the
coats are of first Importance In that they
are the most noticeable feature of tai
lored walking costume. Almost without
exception they are between 40 and 90
inches long, sometimes only at the back
and sides and cut off in front above the
knees and often at the waistline. Their
sleeves are of medium size, generally
shirred or side plated into the armsize,
but invariably of full length, and often
finished with a broad turned-back cuff.
On most of them the incroyable collar ap-
pears either in the shape Of straight,
high band terminating just in front of the
ears or in one almost closing beneath the
chin.
Trimming of Two Types.
These modified Directoire suits are trim
med in two distinct ways. On many Of
them, particularly those Of the palmer
sort, are the long popular bias satin
bands. These are of about half inch
width and there seems to be an almost
hard and fast rule in their application.
Black satin is usually put on black, navy
blue and dark gray, while the other colors
carry their own shades All sorts of fancy
braid trimmings are employed, but the
popular fancy appears to run particularly
to very wide Hercules and the simpler Of
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-23

fabric never loses its hold upon the fem
mime fancy. In all these cloths there
are many charming tints which have not
been In common use within the recollee-
tion of the younger generation. One OF
these Is bronze brown which combines
SO well with the chamois shades en-
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-23

ployed to tighten, If not illuminate, an
otherwise dull-looking costume. Then,
too green has again come to the front,
the olives leading and the stone ttnts
making good second. For the tendency
is ever toward unobstrusive tints rather
than to the sharp bright shades, although
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-23

peacock must be admitted as an ex-
ception to this general rule.
Every woman who aims to be smartly
dressed is interested In the vogue OF
smoke-gray and the fashionable mole
shade, better known-and often mispro-
nounced-as taupe.
Los Angeles herald., 1908-08-23

When making dainty little kimono Of
some himsy material make detachable
lining of albatross, which may be tackled
on when the days grow cooler.
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09
NEW yOHK STOCK MARKET.

Reported over private wires Of Princo x Whltely members or the New York and Boston Stock Lxchanges New York office, 52 Broadway, and l5 Center street. New Haven.
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09
THE COTTON MARKET,

Reported over private wires by Hayden, Stone & Co, members of New York and Boston stock and New York Cot ton Exchanges. New Haven branch, 30 Center street
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09
Miscellaneous Bonds,
STOCK MARKET REVIEW. Aggressive Strength of Hartman Stocks Sustaining Influence.

New York, Sept. S.-Undisturbed ease in the money market and aggressive strength in the Hartman stocks were the sustaining influences in todays stock market The influence was mod crate in It's effect, an overwhelming proportion of the days business being in the HarrImans themselves or in stocks in some way aliated with that name. F. $, Steel was the only addl- tion of first class importance to that list. Dealings else where were dull and the price movement narrow. The liar rlman stocks failed to exert any pro- nounced symapthetic effect even in the groups in which similarity of condi- tions would place them.
 In the trans-contnental group there was an carly advance in the Hill stocks but even this was ascribed to the as- eurances offered by Mir. Hartman in the interviews reported with him that mutually helpful intentions now ruled between the two controlling railroad powers thus represented. Atchison and St Paul usually in close sympathy with the group, were comparatively neglected. In the trunk line group the same peculiarity was manifest The rise in Erie and Baltimore & Ohio was frankly attributed, to the Hartman dominance in those properties and other stocks in the trunk line group
 were dull
 The Coalers were equally indifferent, the activity in Reading being at some expense to it's price Pennsylvania and
 New York Central scarcely moved. H. linois Central was strong without the usual respouse in other Southern trunk line stock. Atlantic Coast line was, in fact sharply depressed, Louisville & Nashville moved narrowly and there were only 4 few isolated transactions In Norfolk and western and Southern Railway The immediate new devel- opment effeCting the Harrimans was the confident and cheerful tone voiced, by the head of the system in public Ioutgiving on his wa! home from his vacation Material developments af-
 fecting values of securities were lack
 Ing after the lapse of three days since the preceding demands on the stock
 exchange London buying of stocks were said to play part in the strength
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09

A large part of the early buying was commission house orders which ac- culnulated over the triple holiday The strength, however In the early trad ing was forecasted by the advance at London Monday and yesterday morn ing.
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09
TO BUY PACIFIC STEAMSHIPS.
E, H. Harriuan's Reported Purchases
 for Pacfic Malt Line.

San Francisco, Sept B. Following n visit made yesterday by John D Spreckels to the offices of r II llarrl- man, It Is reported this morning, that the Oceanic Steamship company, rep resented by Mr. Spreckels, has arrang- ed to sell to the Pacific Mail Steamship company, connected with the Hartman enterprises, the steamships Ventura, Sierra, and Sonoma, which were taken off the run to Honolulu and Australia several months ago and which have since been idle It Is said to me the in- tention of Mir, Hartman to institute
 with these vessels an express service to sAncon, and 1t is pointed out that this arrangement will enable coast bidders to compete in tho matter of supplies for
 the Panama Canal,
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09
CLOSING PRICES.

Reported over private wires of Prince Whitsly. members of the New York and Boston Stock Exchanges. New York office. 52 Broadway, and IS Center street. New Haven. Conn.
 New Ynrk cap+ c
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09
WALL STREET NOTES Manipulative Campaign Fore. casted by Yesterdays
 Market. CROP REPORT DISAPP0INTS crd--Dividend Reduction Possible
 fin American Locomotive.

Ti1s market moved wholly on the basis ot tips" and no pretense was made od explaining the advance In Erie. Reading or the Steel Issues by any new developments affecting the value of those properties Some brok- craze houses received word to buy the Hartman stocks" fora five point rise in Union Pacific. and ten points In Southern Pacific. This is the man ner in which manipulative cam paign. large or small, Is commonly in troSuced. Usually brokers of exper- fence are content with a rise consid- erabiy smaller than that of which they were notified. In all of the above mentioned stocks, the names of capitalists identified with the proper ties were freely used on the stock ex- change as authors of the manipula- tive movement.
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09
BOSTON STOCK MARKET.

Reported. over private wires of Horn
 blower & Weeks, members of the New York and Boston Stock Ex.
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09

Erie shares made new high rec ord for the year. The advance, run hing to 2 1-2 points in the preference stocks, with volume of activity which made Erie easily the leader of the market was associated in q value way with the return of J. P. Morgan from Europe and the expected early arrival of F. H. Hartman from the west. Just how these two men are expected to overcome the difficulties of Erie capitalization Is by no means clear. Aside from the recently pub lished earnings statement. showing that fixed charges were not earned last year by over s1,0O0,o0O. there have been no new developments in the company's situation At their present prices. however, Erie stocks seen, to be what used to he called good gambling counter" A stock whose worth Is wholly based on possi- bilities will encounter more difference of opinion, as to It's proper valuation on The market, than one which Is earning and paying regular dividends.
 yhere was no new developments af- fecting the price of Consolidated Gas stock. but the days movement was ac- companied by the familiar reports of pending sales of real estate with handsome bonus for the stockholders
 American Locomotives 3-polnt break, after a brief early advance, was accompanied by rumors that the nex quarterly dividend would be passed or reduced. The company publishes no current earnings. but 1t is known that for months the railway equip. ment business has been at stand still. The directors of the American Locomotive are scheduled to meet or Thu1da,y of this week to act on tn, dividend year ago the company re ported surplus of S1,250,O00 oveI the per cent annual dividend.
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09

of some of the low priced railroad stocks,
 The government crop report was not liked
 Among locomotive suffered from the fears of a coming reduction In dividend and American Smeting from distrust aroused by a resumption of advertise ments to buy the stock,
 Bonds were irregular Total sales par value s4ii2,oOo,
 U. $, bonds were unchanged on call
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09
pIrrsBURG's BANKS CLOSED.
Action in Cosmopolitan's Case Was
 Proper, Say Authorities.

Washington, Sept, s-lt was stated at the office of the comptroller of the currency today that action in the mat ter of the Cosmopolitan National bank of Plttsburg, which closed few days ago, would be deferred until the arrival here of Judge oldham tomorrow The officers here stated that the bank has been under observation by the comp troller's office for some time in expec- tatlon of what has just occurred and that the institution was unquestiona- bly properly closed,
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09

Just how railroad earnings are far Ing ts strikinsly indicated in the estl- mate of the gross loss of the first half of 1908 of s2S5, ,0o0,O00 compared with the same period of 1907. This estimate Is made by the Financial Chrpmtcle and is based on the actual returns of roads with mileage of 2o2.00o, and which show gross loss of S1s7,0S5,000. Returns for both gross and net in this period have been made for only 16S.s0 miles of road and these show gross loss of $172,- 3O0.000. and net decreased nearly $66.000,0O0. This last exhibit is for approximately three -fourths of the railroad mileage of the country.
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09

The business in American stocks in London was light yesterday as the fortntghty settlement begins to-day.
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09

FittshurE, Sept The Mt Washing ton Savings and Trust company, which was closed oil Saturday by the state did not open for business today as was promised hy the banks officials Instead the institution Is in charge of state Bank Examiner White.
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09

Little or no attention was paid on inent's September crop report, though the figures were generally considered disappointing. Much more interest was taken in weather reports from the west. indicating abnormally high temperature for this time of year At Miles City. Mon. the thermometer stood at 1os; at Rapid City. S. D., dn2, at San Antonio, Tex, 100; at Kansas City, 92 It is predicted that If th!s weather continues "crop scares' especially in cotton, may result.
The morning journal-courier., 1908-09-09
LOCAL STOCK QUOTATIONS.

Corrected daily by klmDnrly, Root & Co.,, Investment Brokers. ls3 Orange
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1908-01-09

sent his wife uD to the school house
to look after the instruction Of the
youth and himself went 70 the meet
ing to make his first political speech.
He is a success as a politician as well
as q pedagogue.
The legislature viii devise and set
In operation some means OF develop
ing the mineral resources of the state.
The legislature Is made up largely OF
farmers. Under present conditions
the farmers OF Oklahoma pay the
greater part Of the taxes. If the min
eral resources OF the state were de-
Veloped it would mean hundreds Of
mines, quarrles. factories and plants
all OF whicL would pay their proper
tionate part OF the taxes
As the hrst step IN developing the
mineral resources and bringing relief
from taxation we suggest the estah-
lishment 81 a geological survey which
shall have for IFS object the locating
and mapping OF The various mineral
products and publishing reports call
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1908-01-09

AN0PU0E y
New Scientific Appliance, Always a
Perfect Fit--Adlustabie TO Any
Size person--Easy, Comfortable,
Never Slips, No Obnoxious
Springs or Pads--cosgs Less
Than Many Common Trus-
ses--Made for Men, Wo-
men or Children.
Sent on Trial
] haze invented a rupture appl.ence
that can safely say, by 80 years ex-
periepce IN the rupture business. is
the only one that will absolutely hold

the rupture and never slip and vet is
light, cool. comfortable, conforms to
every movement OF the body without
caafing or hurting and costs less
than many ordinary trusses. There
are no springs or hard, lumpy pads
and yet It holds the rupture safely
and firmly without pain or inconveni-
ence ] have put the price so low that
any person, rich or poor can buy, ana
] absolutely guarantee it.
make Il to 5our oTder--sea6 o 90
you--you yJear *, anS {7 tel leoean'0 cat,
ls1y you send it back 20 ne snd tzlil
-efund youy nonee
That Is the fairest proposition ever
made by a rupture specialist The
banks or any responsible citizen in
Marshall will tell You u.at is the way
do business-alwa absolutely on
the square.
II you have tried most everything
else. come to me. Where others fail
is where ! have my greatest success
Write me today and will send YOU
my book on Rupture and it's Cure.
showing my appliance and giving you
prices and names of people vino have
tried Il ANA been cured. It is instant
relief when all others fail Remem-
bar / use no salyes. no harness. no
lies tJhst 4 straight business 1eal at
"a reasonable price.
c. &. Brooks, 649o Brooks Bldq., Mar
shall, lAieh.
The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1908-01-09
COMMITTEE ROOM
ASSIGNMENTS MADE
lnitiasigs ans iefefsaGgg
E8easu5s iisc1SseG 4
Il1gls ess.c.

In the house yesterday afternoon
after the eulogies had been pro
Inounced on the memory Of Andrew
Jackson. It was resolved lhat page
OF the house journal be devoted to an
appreciation of him and the men who
fcught under m at New Orleans.
Tiilossans concurrent resolution re-
gardins pay Of members WSp passed
unanimously.
Evans introduced a resolution ask
ing the purchase Of map of the state
for each member which was referred
tc the committee on rules.
The bills introduced on Tuesday
we're read for the second time and
referred TO the proper commttees~
The jOin2 resolution regarding the
direct election Of United States sena-
tors was passed by the house A com
mission IS created in this resolution to
rouse interest among other states. and
'he commission is 10 serve without
pay
Speaker Murray called Speaker Pro
TEN Ellis to the chair and look the
I floor in behalf Of his substitute me-
norial 10 congress regarding She re-
moval Of restrictions. The speaker
was at his best and gave a thorough
synopsis OF conditions in the Indian
Territory portion OF the s3aIe, of che
Indian treaties, land cities and tbe
much discussed road question
When che roll call was taken the
vote for the Murray Substitute was
so ayes with 19 absences.
An importan, report was chat Of
Chairman Stettmund, OF the committee
on assignment OF committee rooms.
This will enable the committees to
meet promptly and discuss the matters
referred 60 them.
a bulletin board win be placed in
the hall for notices of committee
meetings
Putnam. of Oklahoma City. was ex-
clsed on aecount Of sickness.
The house held a session last n 'ght,
owing TO an upusUal press Of Dusi-
ness Before proceeding with the
regular order of business, an address
on Prison Reform" By Representa-
tive 'fG9dy. He is recognized an
thority on such subjects. hagirg been
for years q member of the committee
on prisons while mcmhcr OF the
Missouri legislature re spoke of the
conduct OF the penitsniialy and re-
formatory schools Il the "Show Me-
ST. te. AID .ol occasion 10 Il nnenre
The whipping post in penal institu-
dcns Some touching incidents of
prison life were related. The speak
er also took occasion TO pay high
compliment TO the work of Miss Kate
Barnard. A unanimous vote of thanks
was extelsded AIR. Tandy.
Duran introduced a bill TO az the
fees OF clerks of the district court.
which was read at lcngth This bill
contains portions of the federal and
Texas laws ON the. srAiect II pro
vides a liberal schedule Of fees, some
of which are higher and some lover
than the clerks are now receiving
Since the coming Of statehood there
has been no provisions for the com
pensation zoe district clerks. but they
have been lcuheeting fees as provided