The sun., 1908-10-04
OBSERVATION-DISCLOSURES
TO BE MODISH THE AMERICAN
GIRL MUST REFORM.

haps Take the Rolling Exercises to
Acquire FashionRbIy supple Figure.
The woman who is having her new
frocks built on the models Of long iines
and hipless effects will have TO 60 into
training to acquire the proportions, poise
and manner for the new fashions.
The new clothes are going to be hard Tor
the average woman 10 wear beoomingiy. |
They certainly suggest carriage and bou-
doir effects and are very different from
the trim street costumes generally adopted
In this country.
There are some styles ,of dress that
are essentially luxurious and foreign In
character. while others are shaped In their
designs by the ideas Of utility. neatness
and hygiene, and the average American
women has adopted the latter idea almost
70 a fault. One can always pick her out
in crowd In London or in Paris not only
by her straight back but also by her Skirts
trinity hung and escaping the ground
unfrilled her washable waists and her
hats built on unextravagant lines. SUIT
able for all occasions rather than Tor par
ticular times and places.
The girl who is endowed with any extra
nesh or with the energetic. quick manner
and frank, direct gaze typical Of the fem
mime American will have to put on new
personal ity II che wishes to wear the
| friiled neck ruche and the long lined
gowns and coats that appear In the fash
| ion Illustrations this autumn.
In the first place, the new pettiooats do
not admit of rapid looomotion and 1t Ii
necessary to wear them for while before
the person used to the delightful freedom
OF tho flare skirt can even walk with grace
| in them. In the new plays put on the
stage this fall it will be noticed that the
gorgeous gowns prove serious handicap
to the vearers as they enter. walk about
and. above all, as they ait down on or
rise from chairs.
Nor can the wearer.lean back with any
degree Of apparent comfort except on
chairs and couohes that have many cush-
ions. The clinging sheath skirts are
more adapted for the half reclining posi-
ton that Nine. Recamier made famous
in her noted portrait. The woman who
il painted in such a gown will always do
we'll to have a greyhound curled at her
feet rather than French bull.
Before a woman can wear them at all
to advantage she must practise walking
in skirts that not only are extremely mar
row but rest upon the floor, unstihened
for several inches in front and at the sides,
while the back trails on the ground con-
siderably. It is no small feat to walk in
such a skirt.
IL the would-be Direotoire girl has
waist and hips of extra girth she must
| R1,- ha
does not solve the problem OF the new
gowns. The very best manner in which
to get rid Of hips. waist and heavy torso
generally is declared by some to be roll
ing over and over in the manner OF a child
rolling down q hill. Indeed If rolling
down hill were possible for grownups 1t
would cure this form of obesity.
The rolling process, which must be
done on the floor, looks difficult and un-
pleasant and requires some determine
! ton on the part OF the roller. After the
frat experiment, no matter how slight,
il will be found that the joints ache and
there is some stiffness. Therefore 1t is
best to do the rolling Immediately on rising
and before the bath or before bath on
retiring.
Soon the first disagreeable symptoms
pass of, the flesh begins to soften up and
after a month Of the rolling exercises,
even once day, the girth OF the hips and
torso will have decreased notioeably,
while decided limberness will exist that
is the true requisite for the proper wear
ing of a short wasted gown.
A large sheet is spread upon the floor
and the head may be bound in a towel
TO protect the hair. A dark kimono bath
robe or better yet pajamas. are the
garments for rolling.
The roller lies at full length upon the
sheet and rolls evenly and firmly but not
+ roughly over and over again. turning
completely, the hands over the head or
! in whatever position Is most comfortable.
Half a dozen turns are sufficient for the
first time. After that the number may be
gradually increased.
The very stout woman will find the
exercise more strenuous than the woman
who is merely endeavoring to get on a
few inches. but she should bear in mind
that even the ordinary light gymnastics
of the physical culturists will result in
stiffness and soreness often for week or
more until the flesh and the muscles
harden themselves to the processes.
Then the Directoire girl learns to get
into the new oorsets. to accustom herself
to the idea OF tights rather than petit
coats, to walk in gown that is ready to
trip her at every step, to sit down and to
rise easily, to get into cars and cabs,
climb stairs. kneel in church.
But all this is comparatively easy in
comnarison with the portrait pose and
manner, which will come hard for the
energetic American woman to master.
Yet il she does not moderate her buoyant
Independence OF tone and speech and
gesture. her way Of doing things for
herself, she will beinoongruous in the new
slimsy skirted gown.
One actress has taken regular train
ing in wearing the new gowns and a re-
markable improvement is noted in her
case, for while she always wore modern
gowns gorgeously she never quite looked
anything but a remarkably effective show
girl. Now her head lends prettily and
her body undulates as she walks, though