The Birmingham age-herald., 1908-08-16


 the great country of Russia. Our ex- perience in landing at St. Petersburg was interesting. Just before our ship came in to the harbor a tug came out to meet us, bringing some of the military or police officers, who demanded our passports. After carefully looking them over and taking a look at us to be sure there were no Jews aboard permission was indorsed on our passports to land. After the usual custom house examina- ton of our baggage we were driven to the hotel where our passports were turned over to the hotel authorities, who in turn handed them over to the police to keep during our stay. After rooms were assigned us we had to sign a state ment giving our residence, age, religion, occupation, length and object of our visit We were then allowed the freedom of the city Before leaving, however, "A hours notice had to be given and per mission indorsed on passports to go to the next place, which was Moscow, about 900 miles further south.
 St. Petersburg is a beautiful and at- tractive city. The cathedrals, art gal leries and palaces are especially good. No kodak pictures are allowed to be taken in Russia, but we found opportuni- ty to violate the law many times, and some of our party even got views in the fortress we were allowed to visit, where poor old Stoessel of Port Arthur fame is confined Had we been detected, how over trip to Siberia might have been the result.
 By far the most beautiful thing we saw In Russia was the Czar's winter palace. We secured special permission to see 1t all, even to the private apart ments of the royal family. The crown jewels, the plate, jewels of all kinds be- longing to the Emperor and his prede- cessors the exquisite and costly furni- ture, the paintings, the rooms of the children, costing hundreds of thousands of roubles, were all thrown open to us. The winter palace Is considered the finest and most beautiful in the world. The magnificence, the luxury and beauty was a treat to see. Still with 1t all the Czar and his family have net darkened It's doors for many years. We then went to Peterhof 10 miles away. supposed to be his summer home. Permission was given us to go through this dainty, sweet, home-like and beautiful little pal ace. It did seem happiness could be found here. We asked where was the Emperor and his family/ The guide took us to the waters edge, near the palace grounds, and pointing to a speck on the horizon we were told that we could get no nearer his home than that Ten or 15 miles away, surrounded by guards night and day, he uneasily wears the crown. The richest man in the world and ruler over one of the richest countries in the world he is a prisoner in his own home. The fear of the assas- sins boom, which killed his predecessor, constantly turks in his mind. We made trip near the prime minister's home This was surrounded by electric wires, which, if touched, would bring a regi- ment of soldiers in a moments notice He, too, Is prisoner, and is never seen The masses of the people are ready for a revolution at any time. Nothing but the strong hand of the military prevents 1t now. It is thought the Czar favors more freedom to the people, but if he were to attempt to carry it out he would be assassinated by his own officers, who are perfect leeches on the revenues of the state.
 From St. Petersburg we went to Mos COW, intensely Asiatic in its form of religion and the most interesting place in Russia. We got there just in time to see what is called the church procession. This Is a march of the priests from a certain cathedral to one of the holy spots in the kremlein, In which many of the banners and ensigns of different kinds are carried. The crowds on the streets were enormous and before leaving the hotel the guide cau-
 
 ables. In spite of this caution one lady had her purse stolen before we had been gone half hour. The city is full of thieves and beggars are to be seen on every hand. The church seems to have control of the people. We frequently saw men and wom- en stop in front of a picture of the Sa- vior In some little chapel on the streets and kneel down and kiss the ground and then get up and cross themselves In one cox nn1 Iii fl,o hand of the priest who stood in front of the altar for that purpose. In Moscow the kremlin Is considered the holy of holies. It Is walled portion of the city and has in Its walls the palace treasury dwellings of the priest, arsenal, three cathedrals Miracle, Monastery and Nicholi Palace The walls are entered by five gates. one of which is the redeemer's gate-through this gate no person dares to walk with cov- cred head. Our guide warned us before reaching it not to fail to remove our hats. In the kremlin walls lined up against the arsenal are S75 cannon captured from Ma poleon in his memorable campaign to Mos COW. Each cannon bears the inscription of the letter 'sN' a monument to his pow CT and vanity. We went to Peters Palace six miles out on the road over which Ma poleon retreated and were shown the room In which the great general stayed
 
 cope with the terrors of Russian winter. Out of his 60O,e00 men only remnant of something like 5C,000 ever returned to Franco
 On entering a bank in Russia ons takes oft his hat and in transncting busin sss with the officers 1t must be nlng up on hooks pro, lded for that purpose. Out in the rural distrit ts the toiling, ploddp 2 peasant were mournful sight to see. No peasant is allowed to own over twp ac, ss of land ard the women and msn nssr]y all go barefoot. The women harvest the wheat with small old fashioned reaping hooks. In the .st part Of Russia $ wnoa fields however, the most improved Amer ican reapers and larvesters are us d. The police in the citlas get i5 roubles a month, which is equivalent to about s7.50 It is said that they make their salary on the outside in way of levyirg tribute on of lenders If the law. The common soldier gets p kopecks a month, equal to a5nut 10 cents, which he must use in buying polish for his gun. The government owns | the railroads and give good service espe- cally the sleepers being remarkably comfortable. much more so than our Pullmans There is no free baggage. I saw party of three who had five trunks pay $24.50 for them from Moscow to St. Petersburg The government buys all | liquors from the distillers and then sells | it at its own price. Taxes are distressingly l high. It is like all Europe a country ot | tips. At one hotel in Moscow the man who stands fin front of the hotel and or. ders the carriages for the guests pays tc man inside the hotel pays 20 roubles q year-equal to about $500. The elevator