The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1908-09-20

know that puns about the
cloaks OF society are expected
figures OF Speech-before 7 begin to
discuss with proper gravity the grace
~! cloaks designed for the figures OF
the sinGous ladies OF society.
But ChOlly. nv husband. who really
supplied All the previous puos. has a
friCltfU cold in bis head-the common
or garden variety OF cold-even though
he is EnickerbOcIer. ChoUy Is 50
clever. but Clolly. at present. Is So
III, There is 81 course. the mantle
OF charity which in society * used n
cloak vanity end netty ambition. For
tho hcr~@t or cha rity, the society
woman AS the few chances Of her
Hfotir'" - "ose before the footlights.
Sue wonderful living pictures we're
thos~ we rad last season, In Boston.
Chjca 20, and New York there was q
mixture or vanity, Eayety. and charity
and the greatest Of these was vanity.
But 81 is poor psychic wave OF
vanity that blows no one any good.
and sick tables I'm hospitals and indi-
gent women were benefited thereby.
But now for closks Of satin. or sup
pie broad doth and Of costly furs.
CloaFs. long. f,iIl. and flowing grace
fully. VIII be OF more Importance this
season than hitherto, for often they
are really draperies that are a part
OF the costume itself They will be
worn IN the afternoon more than
in previous seasons, and black satin
cloaks or the sort that our grand
mothers loved will again be in style
Dull shades such as wistaria and egg
plant are favorites. and many OF the
new closks from Paris are without
any blatant trimming. but they are
amazing IN design. The material Is
tied IN knots. hangs in festoons from
the shoulders and looks as though f.
were draped on the figure without any
seams Long, heavy tsssels hang
from every possible point
Simple "loaks. OF course. there are.
and ~ sweetest and simplest OF
the" citations OF the Shaker
mod never go out OF style
The Il Mt. Lebanon and at
West IA. near the fashionable
villa cslony at IJenox. make cloaks I'm
all the soft sweet candy colors be
loved by brides and debutantes. Miss
Durlnd. the daughter or Sir Mortimer
Durand. when her father was ambas-
sador 10 this country. spent the sum
aler in Lenox. and so delighted was
she with the Shaker cloaks that speed
fly the daughters or the muIti-million-
aires followed her lead and adopted
them for evening
The cloak originally meant "un-
spot edness from the world and
equality OF inheritance" and they
were made only in dull drab colors
But over the glittering spangled frock
they are tossed by the gay butterfly
girl OF the social world or to the
dance in ,he cloak that signifies the
principles II Mother Ann Leel or TO
Sherry's for the supper with cham
payne. squads and all the rich viands
In the cloak OF the Shakers. who still
adhere to the principle that a vege-
table diet has "a happifyins influence
on the n-'nd." For the "happifying
influence" we in society depend upon
the champagne bubble
The original cloak Of the Shakers
was very short Sometimes one sees
this model: Il falls only to the waist
line and has a small cape that falls
over the arm Lately. however, it
has been made much like the Come
MARIA cloak worn by the blue-eyed
girls Of Ireland. who go to take their
seats on the wishing-stones in the
hope of having their hearts desire.
AS an adjunct OF the Beardsley cos
tunes there Will be many black coats
lined with white. and white coats
lined with black. Paris. let Il be ex-
planned. is now peOpled with pen-and-
Ink ladies. The fad was born at Os-
tend. where tableaux vivant like the
drawings by Beardsley were given
during August So the fad quickly
arrived in Paris. and has been brought
across the ocean by returning trav-
elers. Yes. even in New York. wom-
en- are trying to look like pen-and-
ink drawings. In the society papers
that come from London there are all
sorts Of queer poster pictures placed
in a blacA. border. and these crazy IL
Illustrations are used as models by the
dressmakers.
A black-aud- white poster girl will
this winter often wear a white satin
evening cloak on which there are
fantastic designs made with black
soutache braid. All the illustrators
IN Paris now earn big sums 81 they
choose by doing the line work for
black costumes. making an artistic
Arrangement of the black and white
A superb csndourah cloak "a garment
copied after that or the KsbyIes in