New-York tribune., 1908-06-28


At recent private view Of pictures Of the
most charming costumes of biscuit colored
silk voile embroidered in biscuit and white silk In
heavy raised design. II formed deep border on
the skirt, rising high above the knees on the front
breadth, and adorned the blouse bodice with its
dong. close wrinking sleeves A clever touch was
given by broad soft belt Of Natter blue silk.
and a bit Of this becoming color was at the neck
Over the gown a long coat OF soft. smoke
colored pesu de sole, lined with ivory satin. Wide
ppen in front, it sloped sharply toward the back
ur the pretfy hird-wng effect graceful with long
sxirts. Piped with silk braid was bias band
OF the pear de sole that finished all the edges ana
where were large ornamental buttons placed on
each SIDE OF the front 1t was sleeveless. the arm
noles cut wide and extending little over the
Hleeve tops.
C,ouspicuous for chic also was a costume Of
MD rose ribbed oddly and effectively
xrinrned with buttons Of the material rlnmed
with black The skirt in princess form,
,urinkljns above the waist line and cut In nice
Few curve in front Following this line was
sash OF soft black satin. which crossed in a hat
Aznot in the middle dropping ends that reached
Aelog the knees and were gathered 10 hold a long
,.,rr -asse The hem of the skirt turned to
che right side, the top edge being finished With
i.ne of the buttons which served two purposes, as
xrirnrnng and weights On each side or the
skirt the buttons placed in row in a line
with others set on bias band edging the front
xf the coat The coat-haf long-had its open
Ssee seams trimmed with buttons. beginning at the
waist line and reaching nearly TO the hem Ilny
saeeves-onIy few inches long-were shaped In
one with the shoulders by means Of a seam on the
top: this covered by bano OF hghtly
sketched black embroidery, finished in point as
A. fell over the sleeves Of the lace blouse. These
were formed Of three overlapping lace hounces
~The smart hat Of cerise straw. wide brimmed and
high crowned. was trimmed with sash Of black
satin crriins the crown softly and fastening under
g bunch of black ostrich feathers posed on one
eide with low backward movement. The parasol
matched the gown
A tall slender Burne-Jones creature linnped with
riniculty. a steps at a time. from picture 10
sicture Her progress extremely slow, and
apparently sitting entirely out of her calcua-
tons To one who knew fashions foolish ways
,here was no mystery in her movements Simply
she was wearing Of the ''jupe-pantalons The
effect was really quite lovely. if discounted the
,5;fcultv in walking. But manifestly this garment
IS not meant for walking. The model was OF
smoke oolored crepe de Chine; its trailing lengths
were hemmed with a band Of embroidery done IN
ro1d and aluminium threads Pleated fans, set at
.ac+ side Of the front. neld together above
she knees by passementerie ornaments; these ano
.he rleated fans TO conceal the machinery OF
elastic bands used 70 control the magic fulness
across the front. The skirt YVES hung high-waist-
ed under belt Of the embroidery rounded odois
,,r 10 the height Of the bust. Gray lace, en-
il,roidered with gold and aluminium fcr1neo inc
bodice Dropping low over the loosely ariansea
hair was hat of soft cerise straw, trimmed with
,narv shaded pluInes.
t9,,,. +ha most adorable fancy Of the season are
the little coats Of loose and fanciful FORM maoe
Of soft silk tender, delicate shades OF green OF
,-,,-n For the most part their shape is bor-
-or-ed from old prints and portraits OF the unle
of ro,,ie yV Nine de Pompadour wore coats OF
similar cut on her little Journeys Mace OF Pale
,,,lloxv prasn fsfue silk is charming little coat
slightly adjusted the figure IN the pack IL
-eaches only To a little below the waist line; the
seams under the arms split few inches. and
following ali the edges is shrTed pufhng OF the
silk about three inches wide. In the corners and
on each side of the front il whirls into wheels
The sleeves are wide, short and trimmed with the
ehirrines and wheels.
The new silk voiles IN countless pretty oe-
sizns Over foundation OF black, green, blue, light
and dark are large and small squares, marked
off in thin white lines. On the edge, to be USED
ss trimming four five satin bands OF dlf-
.erent widths in the plain color. A silk wolfe in
squares Of black and white has on its border four
bands Of black velvet edged with orange. peacock
using this material, each usually confning
itpelf TO color.
Quite unusual is a wolfe Of Natter blue, lined
= of with white. Woven the border is cash
enere hand. the coors harmonizing beautifully with
1he shade Of blue. red wolfe. stamped with white
= Iozenses with<a cashmere band framed in lines
Of white IS wholly charming made up with tunic
skirt and low. sleeveless bodice white
;xuinpe.
With the new close skirts that give slender
silhouette the long 'pardessus' and the redngote
are the accepted finish They continue the line
with 8 grace and harmony impossible TO the holero
or other short garment. Launched during the win