New-York tribune., 1908-08-30

salmon. Set far back under the brim were h'tie
rosettes of salmon colored Liberty ribbon which COW
cred the beginning Of long brides that huiis
loosely or were knotted low down. Besides being
becoming these brides extremely practical
in anchoring the great hat in the high wind that
blows always this coast. To balance these mats
a great quantity Of hair is necessary and as few
women grow sufficient crop 1t is evident there Is
harvest ahead for the wig makers. The hair is
dressed mere and more to extend on each slde' 70
that the modish head is of enormous size.
The flower of the moment is the dahlia. in all Its
lovely rich colorings 1t is worn on the hat and IN
the corsace Carefully matched, ii adorns the hair
in the evening. and also it is used TO close the
thick neck ruche Of pleated SILK or moussellne De
sole.
The new fur reclz ruches that will appear later
in the Paris streets already worn here on
cold day They altogether charning-tgnt,
straight bands of fur that just fit the neck, and
fasten al one side under ribbon bows with long
ends They are topped by tue ruches that usually
match the fur. All the latest sleeves are long
straight and close fitting. Often they are cut off
below the elbow to finish with lace mitten sleeve
that points over the fingers Except for evening
gowns the short sleeve, either for the house
street has quite vanished, but in these days of
quick changes discarded fashion may reappear at
any moment All must regret the short sleeves;
they are exceedingly pretty. lending an aspect of
youth particularly allurng. II is only the high
price of long gloves that reconciles the feminine
world their abolition.
All things Egyptian or Byzantine having
extraordinary Evening cloaks here
theatre ana opera nights made of the
heavily ribbed silks, and sumptuously lined in
strong contrasting coors A stunning thing of dull
old rose is lined with pleated cascades of almond
green chiffon and faced the fronts with lovely
ribbon combining both colors.. Another, pale
amethyst Is lined with geranum color-startlng.
one would think, yet the shades carefully
graded that there is no shock to sensitive eyes
A striking costume just sent here from a great
house OF the Place Vendome is of the satin
that has look Of cloth. The color is also,
q deep rich golden yellow The shape of the coat
is criously antique with its long plain. loose hang
ing bodice reaching far below the wastline: at
tached to It pleated half-ong skirt pieces. Big
buttons are set at the back, and there inn
nense pocket flaps and large square cuffs to the
coat sleeves The skirt is long. close and perfectly
plain
The summer has been so cold that linen costumes
have been laid aside for those of white serge The
quality is rough coarse and hairy-extremely chic.
The skirts are gored little and hang straight and
n,ain over limp petticoat, If any. The half long
coat is often in the old cutaway form that has
nroved too becoming 20 be easily given up. Nearly
all show pretty suggestion of the Directoire
modes in the collar cuffs and smart little waist
coats A costume of white serge particularly fetch
ing seen at tennis match one morning had
1vaistcoat of striped green and white silk The
revers and cuffs were faced with 1t, and there
were large pearl buttons trimmed with gold Among
others watching the game was TAN, shsht Woihdh
strikingly gowned in soft silk of champagne
shade one much liked this season Over the long
nlain skirt was a tunic draped in the back In q
Ynost original fashion Two long scarfs that formed
the low corsage crossed from the back passing
through long buckles each side of the waist
line and knotted in 'front.' TO fall low the skirt
Ar the waistline at the back, the middle of a
ro,g- strip of cloth attached for the space OF
o few inches: the hanging ends were knotted once
.,e z,av down the skirt and fell straight, weighted
bv tesvv fringe Ii is described merely to show
some of the extravagances of the new modes. for
bi,a this draping was excessively graceful on the
sle,aer supple figure of the wearer, II would De
clumsy hevond description ordinary figure
A costume of changeabe silk and white linen
,,, will he copied a month hence in Ottoman
i,l, and cloth or velvet and cloth was quite charm
,,r- .na novel Over an underdress of finely tucked
,,t;.e linen tthe tucks lengthwAse) was worn Il
r;nnass sil, oyerdress perfectly moulding the
figure The arm.1oes were cut 10 Shape i..o
80 ,he top of the tight tucked sleeves OF the
~ a-aress, in front the bodice was cut into
high souare and buttoned double breasted Tor
fa,,r or Eve inches; below it cut out to show
iaa .irale of black silk buckled with a
t,,.r covered buckle Below this opening the
closing line continued the skirt haif way 10 tne
knees then IL soped away sharply 10 tle oec@
10 show much of the underdress
This odd low-down closing was seen again IN
costume of ribbed black silk. The open front Oh
the half-long coat came together a dozen incnes
below the natural line of the waist and fastened
with one large embroidered button. The coat was
close fitting and plain. save for border OF raised
embroidery and a half-inch band OF black veivet
that followed all the edges. The small haii-iohS