The sun., 1908-02-16
The FIRST SPRING FROCK
A TAILORED STREET GOWN FOR
BETWEEN SEASONS WEAR.


offered by tailors and dressmakers, and
are ordering the tailored street costumes
which meet the first sArtorial needs OF the
spring season.
By the time March comes winter street
E1its have begun TO show wear and tear and
The separate coats OF the winter season.
n not shabby. are q trne heavy. In this
day Of all the year round sheer materials.
winter house froclEs. evening frocks. 40,
may be made 70 do duty throughout the
spring and may even meet certain summer
needs II they have survived the winter sea-
pon In good condition: but the very first
mild days call for a new and chic street
frock and the wise woman provides for
tbA anarRency WI In advance.
OF course the one argument against such
forchandedness is that the spring modes
are not definitely fixed before late March.
but while the spring season may launch
somo novel details and may determine just
what lines will be most chic throughout
the summer it is an easy matter 20 foresee
In q general way the coming modes. and
tho Riviera costumes give convincing
evidence a. to what may be expected in
Paris later.
MASerials for spring tailored frocks are
already displayed in great variety, but
n Che latest Partisan advices are to be
trusted this attractive and lavish exhibit is
trile misleading.
Our shops are full OF striped stuffs, stripes
Of every imaginable size, arrangement and
color. From chiffon 60 suitings stripes
prevail, and there is not a shadow OF doubt
that striped costumes will be much worn
here, for the tailors are makingsup innum-
srable spring suits in striped wOrsteds.
Yet from Paris comes a note Of warning
There the stripe had it's day last season.
All through last spring and summer II was
q rage, an epidemic; and for that reason
The true el60dnte frowns upon it now and
orders her new street frocks in plain ma
teriAls or in mixed or checked effects. If
stripes are chosen she gives preference
70 the shadow stripes in one tone.
And 90 II is well 20 think seriously before
surrendering to the charms Of the delight
fully blended colorings in the new striped
suitinRs. One will be more distinguished,
less in line with the crowd and with the
wearers Of ready made suits il one chooses
q plain cloth or serge or fancy suiting; but
there's no denying that many OF the striped
materials are lovely, and after all a good
tailor can stamp a frock with individuality
no matter what it's material may be.
The black and white stripes were unQues-
tionably overdone last year, as were the dark
gray and white stripes; and though these
effects have distinct charm, it will be the
part Of wisdom to pass them by this year.
Some admirable models have been shown
in linen and cotton suitings of the black
and white or gray and white stripe class,
but the best tailors are not advising wool
suit ngs OF such character.
In the linen and cotton suits a jumper
frock Of the black and white stripe with a
coat en- suite is the admirable thing and a
note Of color is usually introduced in but
tons. piping, &c. One model has large
buttons Of light brown linen in one of the
onion shades embroidered lightly with
black and white, and lines Of the brown
appear next the lingerie guimpe on the
sleeves and on the collar and cuffs Of the
coat. Another linen three piece suit is Of gray
and white stripe relieved by old blue linen
braided in fine gray linen soutache.
In the striped worsteds shadings of bis
cult or light brown with smoky Grays are
especially good. Such color schemes had
decided vogue last season, but are here in
more subtle and harmonious blendings and
In most attractive twills. soft light and lus-
trous, yet firm.
kind in soft shades OF creamy biscuit and
darker tones Of the same color, and there are
many effective stripe stuffs in the tOWP'
and smoke grays. which. while no longer
the last cry Of modishness have always n
Quiet elegance. The wood browns are
Partisan favorites. and a shadow stripe.
check OF plain material in this color is q
Rood selection for first spring frOck, while
the dark blues. always popular, will be
worn more than ever sapphire blue vying
With navy.
Az TO the lines OF the early spring suit
there one must trust to ones tailor or One's
Inspiration. Luckily this is a day Of such
variety that no one model Is likely to have
things it's own way, and any one Of dozen
models not too extreme seems safe.
Where the cutaway lines are becoming
a state Of things by no means universal
some one OF the many variations upon the
SultAway coat seems desirable The lates
Riviera and stage models turned out by
authoritative Partisan makers show a
decided liking for such lines and an inchna-
don 20 carry their winter vogue on ove'
into the spring and summer seasons.
The semi-fitting coat OF verv moderate
length buttoning single breasted straight
down the front. made with smoker or coat
collar and long coat sleeve and sloping
slightly upward toward the back around
the bottom, 10 a good plain tailor model,
and there are some close fitting short coats
but the smartest models so far unquestion-
ably are those OF cutaway tendencies.
The new figure. which means the new
corset, lends itself admirably to such coats,
and one is at a loss 20 know whether the
coat evolved the CORSET or the corset the
coat. This new figure. mesdames. you
must adopt II you are 20 be a la mode, and
after all the transformation is no appalling
thing.
It calls for no such radical change as did
your adoption OF the straight 'front.' yet
there In a definite change OF line. The
straight front II kept, but all that can be
done 10 reduce tho size OF the hips IL done,
and tho corset at back and sides is worn
vwy long. 20 that there will be no roll Of
hssh at the bottom. where its conlning