Omaha daily bee., 1908-11-15

impression left by an examination of scores
yes, hundreds-of beautiful creations
ready for the week which is in tradition
If not always in fact the decisive s~artorial
show of the year.
There are other materials, of course, won
derful dull finished silks, ~velvets, cloths,
laces. silk mousseIines, chiffons; but a
satin sheen CLEANS on almost all Of the
loveliest silks and ~nets-which are all
grouped under the French head of 'tulle"
and are even more important than silk
mousseline among the sheer stuffs.
1t would be useless and by no means IL
Eliminating to name the almost innumerable
varieties Of satin with which the market
is flooded. Zach is more supple, more
lu%strous, lighter of weight than the last,
and all of the very beautiful satins are
high priced. But right here let 1t be said
that to buy a cheap satin is sheer folly.
A cheap satin is as unsatisfactory a
thing as one can purchase. II one cannot
afford a superior quality and not all of
the good satins are enormously expensive,
better by far content oneself with a pretty
crepe or messaline or one of the exquis-
itely fine silky woolens. There are plenty
Of modish and attractive materials which
are not high in price. Don't buy satin
unless you can buy beautiful satin, such
as the "~charmeuse." the "gracieuse,' etc.
But, on the other hand, It may be re-
membered that the new and costly satins
are very wide and that though they may
be deliberately trimmed they are beautiful
In themselves and that they do not abso-
lutely demand much trimming. Fold, sheen,
color may be made to do duty for intrl-
cate elaboration and a good satin will stand
the wear and tear surprisingly well, usually
being easily freshened on account OF the
simplicity Of its lines and detail.
Exquisite frocks of satin in dark null
berry. taupe, whale gray and other deep
shades nave been made up for daytime
wear under handsome fur coats or other
separate coats, and the horse show will
undoubtedly bring out many of these. They
are generally very simple In effect, though
often drapcd with a kill that would drive
a mediocre dressmaker TO despair, and
many of them have little trimming save
some selt-color embroidery about the cling
ing bodice and relieving tulle Of lace sleeves
and guimpe.
The shirtwsist line predomlnates, but oc-
caslonally one sees a draped frock loosely
defining the natural waist line. This is the
I'M wv - eNAAAS - 49, $3.50 49,
frocks, the under robe Of satin c~linging to
the natural curves Of the figure while the
net falls more loosely and perhaps ind Gates
n shorter waist. or possibly the front Of
the froCk approaches the natural waist
curve while the back is shorter. These ar
engagements are older than the round, short
empire waist, but in the late season models
We notice a slight revuls.Oa in their favor,
and some relief from the dominion of the
empire waist is fairly sure To heave In
sight before very long.
The satin gown often has an absolutely
plain satin Ekirt-devo.d Of trimming, that
is-though there may be some ripple of
drapery to break the severity. The old
rose liberty Of the sketch illustrates a sue
cessful version Of the diagonal trimming
l mes which are popular with Par.sian de-
signers, and the simple bias bands OF the
satin laid on net of the same color are a
good detail, as are the finishing motifs
made OF heavy satin cord.
Embroidery or Mt, chi fy in the color
Of the frock material, but often with dull
gold or silver i2troGuce'. Is a tavosi,e trim
ming for satin. and indeed for al materials.
and fortunately such beautiful things Of
sort are ofc-T-d among the ready mads
trimmings thai Il is not always necessary
10 resort to the more costly expedient OF
having the embroidery done to order.
embroidered net in the right color is
not to be found il is always possible to
rave a white embroidered net dyed to the
desired shade. and II il will answer cne's
this will be found much less ex-