The Montgomery advertiser., 1908-03-22
IN NEW Y0RK'S
 FASHION GLASS

New York. March 2I--Spring days will soon call for the new dress, suit | or costume and all their accessories that have been prepared for the sum- mer days. One smart tailored suit Is
 quite necessary if only one costume can De bought at first. Evening frocks can often be remodeled and
 made to last few months longer, but the tailored costume has so many decided changes from last year that they will be too noticeable for we'll dressed women to wear again. The single breasted semi-fitting coat with
 the full length sleeve will be the
 model for the strictly tailored suit. The modified Directoire coat will be
 immensely popular with the many gored skirts and flaring hem. The coat has standing collar and the sieve Is cut in one with the coat. These are semi-fitting reaching just below the line of hips where is a de- cided flare. The skirts. to make them flare more. have narrow sections set
 in between the gores from the hem to the knee. They are much longer than
 in past seasons. the most of them just
 clearing the ground. Braid and but
 tons have taken the place of the stitched fold. The separate coats of late winter and early spring are very much trim med and their cut is novel and smart. One collarless model was cutaway with pointed back quite long and the
 side seams were let up to the waist
 line. The novel feature was the sleeve which was tight fitting with buttons and braid strapped across running from the wrist to the collarbone. The usual sleeve shoulder seam was entire
 ly concealed. From the front seam of
 the coat to the back seam the buttons
 and straps of braid were again used.
 This sleeve form is a favorite one at
 present. Where a skirt of striped
 goods Ia worn with a coat of plain
 cloth the skirt material is often cut
 in narrow bands for a trimming on
 the coats. Buttons are used exten-
 sively--in following front seams of coats. and in outlining panels of one-
 piece gowns: they may be placed in
 regular distances, or arranged in
 groups.
 The person who chooses leather color for her new spring gown will
 not find 1t difficult nor expensive in
 getting the numerous accessories to match. Shoes and gloves are usually the hardest things to get in the exact color-shoes especially. for 1t is eer-
 tain that they must be of the same color if not of the same material as
 the gown. The hat will of course
 match and may be trimmed with sew eral shades of flowers or the new
 plisse trees as they are called. The umbrella and wrist bag can easily be obtained in the right shade. The latest fad is that the wrtst-bag and
 belt shall match in trimmings and
 jewels.
 The long silk gloves that are shown for late spring and summer wear are embroidered in self-color in very fine designs. Flowers and vines are tine mos popular patterns. done in the raised effect and going around the arm about two or three inches apart. Some have short designs and those are worked up and down. These silk gloves can be found to match any gown and all the new shades are prominent. As a rule the gloves do not match the gown, but the trimmings and accessories or for summer frocks. white gloves are the most popular.
 Lace is used in many exceptionally pretty ways this season. There are hats in the new flat sailor shapes made of lace and bound with match ing taffeta with one big bow wired, In front. These lace bows are seen on other light summer hats and if they do not become too Common" they will be considered very chic. High lace stocks are fashionable for they give any waist smart finish. They are wired so that they come up to the ears and are medium height in front and back. The Parisian women Is trimming her winter furs with beautiful lace that she may wear them with her spring costumes and still have them changed. To the. huff is aded a big lace bow and a bunch Of scented artificial Yiolets in the middle and the neck piece is finished with violets and knots of lace.
 Some startling creations are dis- played in the hats for spring and sum mer. There is a great variety in size and shape and also in trimmings. All kinds of soft plumes that stand high are used and flowers, the most beauti- ful that were ever made. Roses will never lack popularity and the pan sles, arbutus. violets, lilacs and lilies of the valley are charming decora- tions for the new chapeaux. Geraniums in exquisite colorings are very effective. Several different kinds of flowers will be used on some hats the smaller ones such as lilies of the valley being arranged in a cluster with white lilacs standing higher and then roses of a brilliant hue mixed with them. Much foliage will be used with the flowers and velvet and ribbons will play their parts in trimming.
 A very charming gown was develop ed in the softest of satin In delight- full shade of violet. It was one of the draped models where the material was laid In soft folds across the front of the bodice forming the sleeve also. where 1t was shirred from the top of the arm to a little below the elbow. The guimpe and undersleeves were of very fine lace edgd with violet satin and the stock was the fashionable height. A wide band of embroidery worked in delicate colors started in the back close to the collar and fol- lowed both sides of the guimpe in front until the satin was draped over it. The skirt was of the paQuln design with the deep wrinkles in front and | 1t formed the wide girdle in princess effect. There were two rows of shir- ring on the hips to give the necessary | fuliness. The skirt had a decided flare | and a wide graceful train.