The sun., 1908-06-21
FANCY WAISlCOATS In VOGUE
NO Loss IN THE POPULARITY
or THESE GARMENTS.


Bias STRIPES One OF the Startling Novelties
offered by the Haborsiashers--Tcp
to Darker Tones--Fine Materials for
Evening Wear-The CoIors and Lines.
The prediction that the fancy waistcoat
was not to play the same part In mems
dress this summer has not come true and
one may listen with soepticism to the
prophecy that men will not vary their
regular dress next winter with the waist
coat different in color and material. The
waistooat Of this kind has become perma-
nent feature Of mems dress. The fancy
waistcoat is now just as much a part Of
modish mans wardrobe as is the same gar
ment> made Of the material Of the coat and
trousers.
Perhaps tho most conspicuous novelties
OF the season are the two turned cut
by Broadway haberdashers- The striking
styles In waistcoats, it might be observed.
come now from the haberdashers. They
have taken over the fancy waistcoat as a
part OF their stock by right and they sur
pass the tailors in the originality and daring
Of their styles. One has tho striped goods
cut on the bias and the stripes therefore
run toward the centre buttons Of the waist
coat rather than up and down or even across
as they we're sometimes made TO. These
bias striped waistcoats come in very at
tractive combinations. There are OF course
black and white, but in addition there arc
white and mauve. mauve and gray. cream
and brown. green and white and two shades
Of blue. All these combinations are in
stripes not moro than one-eighth Of an
I'M mi ~ sKza - sho
tions named here they are in the same
colors with black. The fabrics used in
hem are OF merceri1ed linen or silk and
linen and the buttons are of bone or metal.
There has been urged against these new
bias stripes that they make stout men look
larger, although In matters Of dress that
always brings the compensating advantage
that thin men are correspondingly en-
larged by the same effects. The principal
objection to these bias stripes was explained
by tailor who d gnifes his profession
through studying it's quest ons analyti-
cally.
Il have never in my experience he ex-
planned, seen any bias stripe effects sue
ceed In mems dress. The device Is popular
enough among women, but the use OF bias
stripes for men is 80 inappropriate that
believe it will be permanent
The other novelty in waistcoats is not 30
novel alone as when taken in connection
with other features Of its wearer's dress
1t Is OF stripes or even checks, made to
match the material Of the shirt 1t must
of course match 1t exactly. To afford the
touch OF contrast which is intended to call
attention to the fact that the materials in
the shirt and the waistooat are the same
white dioksy is worn in the waistcoat
Pronounced as this style Is, there is certain
smartness in the materials used to make
these waistooats. There are on a white
ground stripes OF blue. mauve and brown
and between these broader stripes threads
OF color no thicker than a hair.
The choice of material ~ these waistcoats
is necessarily limited. as only shirting can
be used. Separate materials of the same
pattern and thicker texture have not been
made for this purpose. The waistcoat is of
course adorned. like the shirt, with heavily
embroidered monogram, which has the
dubious value OF being seen by few but the
wearer and adding much to the cost Of the
waistcoat.
Other tendencies in waistcoats have been
to darker tones. They are shown this
summer in various shades OF brown and
yellow Of variety which the dealers love
to describe as Jungle tints. presumably
because they suggest the tawny shades Of
jungle animals, These are made up with
round wooden buttons in the same general
scheme OF color. In stripes that show
various shades Of gray and black on dark