davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05
AS Important as the Needle

The needle is not the only imple-'
ment required in the making and
keeping of clothes. A fiatiron is q
close second.
The tailored skirt. especially. is in
constant need Of being pressed.
The pressing of suit requires some
skill-but more patience and care.
In the case of a pleated skirt. first
haste in place each pleat its entire I'M
stitched length with fine cotton; coarse
thread will leave its imprint after
pressing.
When a skirt it put over the padded
board, place a chair or small table be-
meath 1T TO lift the skirt TO prevent
stretching.
Provide two hot irons--heavy irons are
best-an cover the portion to be pressed
with a piece of doubled unbleached mus
lin thoroughly Wet.
Do not "iron.' but literally press"
lifting the iron from place TO place rath-
er than rubbing it over the surface. The
iron should not be allowed to remain too
long in one place. or It will leave its
imprint.
The seams OF coats and sleeves may
be pressed over a broomstick which has
been evenly padded ard covered with
muslin.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05
Frilling for Collar

A high featherboned collar Is al
ways completed by a tiny frilling.
which almost covers the much brush
ed up and waved hair at the nape Of
The neck.
French women are very chary Of
wearing jewels. At present only
simple line OF pearls around the neck
IL permissible. or a platinum chain
and Jeweled pendant. Even in the
evening they avoid jewels as much
as possible. using only an ornament
in the hair.
A peculiar note was recently shown
in the selection Of a veil. which must
match neither the hat nor the dress.
In fact. it must be of either spotted
or plain tuIle. in a quite contrasting
color to the rest of the costume.
One costume lately seen was a green
cashmere made a la incroyabIe and trim
med with white soutache. With this was
worn a little pierrot rum of black
tulIe with line Of green tulle in the
middle. just to relieve the black.
fastened on the right side. where It
was tied with a long-ended black vel
vet bow. The hat of green straw was
raised on the left side with q soft
black rosette. and around the crown
was coronal OF yellow buttercups..
ELOISE
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05

DO%sE.::' Is perhaps tne NEST. pop
uiar of summer materials, and
l. this is for many good reasons.
In the fiyst place. the fabric washes
and wears well. and does not become
creased az do other silks. 1t may be
used. too. for SC many purposes
tailored suits, afternoon dresses. coats
and even hats. Have We not heard
all spring that tussor makes the
newest and lightest of summer head
gear?
But, in spite OF it's popularity. few
persons know the difference between
domestic and imported pongee. and
fewer still know each variety by
name. There has been much talk Of
mirage and tussor. but the connec-
tion between them, and the quality OF
each. Is quite unknown to the aver
age woman.
All varieties of pongee are supposed
to be very narrow, but really they are
wider than most other silks. AS for
quality. color and price. each MEM
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05

~ 1sgsS-:s. =.
49, :, ',s

easy to write upon, while the slight
plaid or check gives it a touch of indi-
viduality.
The prettiest Of these papers is a
light blue and gray plaid, more on a
pin-check order, if one may apply such
a term to stationery. and it really is far
more attractive than il sounds.
OF course. there is other note paper
in only one pastel shade. which is
equally attractive, but not so strik-
ing in appearance. Great care must be
taken when using this paper not to use
anything but plain black ink, unless
one uses a lavender ink to tone in with
the stationery. Imagine a brownish ink
on anything except a yellow tinted
uaperi
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05

may be large or small-and they are al
ways worn with a jabot and little
black band. which is fastened at either
the top or bottom Of the collar to give
a slight amount of color to the COM
plexion of the wearer-as black always
does.
One of the many advantages Of the
new waists Is that they may. without
much difficulty, be made at home: their
cut is entirely simple and net Is ex-
tremely easy to tuck. for all one need do
Is to follow the line of the mesh and
sew it on with the machine or by hand
Paris says the work must be done in
the latter way. It is best. Of course. to
reinforce the net SO that it will not be
too transparent, and when 1t Is substan-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05

front, and the little band of black
satin ribbon ties round the bottom OF
the collar. These last two waists de-
scribed are made with long sleeves
the former with two ruff1es at the
hand. the latter with a turned-back
cuff edged with a rufi1e. These ruffies
must OF necessity be straight. not
bias material, for the latter Is al
most impossible to manage.
Another blouse is made in small
tucks in groups Of Ave. 1t fastens
down the front and is finished with
a double ruff1e Of the net. A narrow
band of velvet ties round the neck
and fastens in the front with a little
buckle, from which are pendent two
ends OF the velvet
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05

case with the net blouse. Such an
innovation will save many laundry
bills, and the appearance Of the blouse
will only be improved by this SEEM
ing neglect.
One of the blouses is pleated, the
pleats running up and down in the
front in straight line across the
shoulder and round and round the
sleeves The collar is tucked. while
the black satin band is tied in tiny
bow Just below the inevitable frill.
The iabot is made Of the selvage OF
the net itself. which ripples up to the
throat where it Is tied in rather a wide
bow
Another waist is tucked in groups
NJ three. A broad jabot covers the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05

TALLY tucked it has a certain amount of
body.
The jabots worn with these blouses
are 80 arranged that they hide the
fastening down the front; blouse with
a pendent collar fastened in the back
seems to totally lack raison d'etre.
Another advantage. Of these net waists
is that they may be easily dyed to match
the color of the suit with which they
are worn.
The white blouse with a colored
suit has gone out of fashion for the
moment, although it will undoubtedly
be revived at some not far distant
time. Then. too. these waists may be
easily washed. Think of the comfort of
having a blouse washed without hav-
ing to have 1t ironed. for such is the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05
The Proverbial Stitch

THE stitch in time!" How We do
hate those trite. old, well-worn. but
never worn out, sayings-especially
when we feel that the cap fits'' (an-
other Representatives. saying)
our own special head. But we can
never get around the truth OF them.
Very essential is that proverbial
stitch in these days of diaphanous
fabrics, narrow. close-htting gar
ments, transparent yokes and sleeves:
for, one thread broken. the damage
is little less complete than when .
thread is dropped in a silken stock
ing.
Some one asked me the other day
how to keep silk stockings from wear
ing out. I could think Of no way ex-
cept to keep them in the bureau
drawer.
See to your collars. Bent and broken
bones will mar the beauty OF the most
perfe ct stock. And fresh ruchings?
Why. Of course: might treat Of those
in a story on cleanliness.
See to your hooks and eyes. Nothing
presents a more detected look than a
hanging hook and eye. 1t has such a
reproachfrl aspect. 1t. in itself. is per-
fectly good and anxious to do duty. but
its environment makes it impossible.
See to your dress braid. A woman
with a frayed dress braid is untidiness
personified. II she cannot afford a new
one. let her rip the old one off and turn
it upside down; If she has already done
this, rip IL off altogether and so braid
less. But then the skirt itself will be-
come frayed? Then turn up new hem.
This process may be repeated-not In
definitely. but for a number OF times
quite within the bounds Of modesty.
The petticoat should be an object OF
special care. 1t is easy to pin IL up. but
it Will last far longer IL you take the
despised stitch" A silk petticoat dis
earded the other day by a fair maid
had acquired pins approaching fifty
seven varieties.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05

~ UE DE LA PAX and the Place
Vendome report that tulle or
IL wash net blouses are the der
nier cri for summer wear. he
famous dressmakers of the French cap
ital insist that this sheer and durable
material will be far more popular for
the coming season than will hand-em-
broidered linen and nainsook. which
have been worn for so long. OF course,
there is a reason why net should be pop
ular; 1t does not crush as do linen and
cotton materials, nor need net be SO
much ornamented. for it is OF itself
more or less ornamental. according to
the mesh.
These new waists are mostly tucked
In croups OF three and fve-tfe tuclIs
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05
A Silver Watch Holder

A NEW wrinkle for the toilet table is
"A the watch holder made like i pic
tlre frame. 1t is of sterling silver and
the watch fits into the opening. where
it is clamped into place, so, when the
watch is not in use by the lady her
self. there is a pretty and useful clock
on the dresser
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05
Our Letter From
Paris
PARIS, June q.

~ RETTY toilets of diaphanous mate
81 rails ar. making their appearance
u In The morning on the long walks
in the Bots. and many are the little
novel fashions to be noticed. There IL
a valois ruff made Of soft chiffon tulle
or "ninon de Sole; there are small
punches Of velvet pansies or blue hy-
acinths nesting coyly in the black tulle
yuching around the neck. and there are
little punches of bright spring bios
SONS which make dark blue morning
costumes look attractive and neat.
Large cloche-shaped hats Of white.
dark blue or gray straw are trimmed
with pleated linen or wide vaienciennes
lace, p1eated and frilled, and punches OF
flowers are scattered about the ruche.
Dressy hats are of costly materials,
With their trimmings Of ostrich feath-
ers and aigrettes.
A "Compromise" Hat
A new hat is called the capeline. which
seems to indicate compromise between
q cap. q hat and a bonnet. One
capeline is shown Of mole-colored
erin with a wide drapery of MORE
taffeta in the same shade round
the front Of the crown. This soft silk
connects a large mole-colored owl on
one side Of the brim to a cluster Of
purple roses and foliage on the other.
The result Of these contrasting colors
is delicious.
The meager uncurled ostrich feather
has returned to popularity. and is seen
on quite one-half Of the modiste's lat
est creations. A touch Of green-grass
green. apple green. pea green. peacock
green. serpent green-any green but
paris GREEN'S seen on almost every
costume. Many green straw hats are
trimmed with black taffeta. tulle and
feathers, while black hats are trimmed
with bright green. In fact. green. black
and white are three favorite colors Of
the moment Khaki comes next, but it Is
more used for gowns than for millinery.
The semi-empire style is still popular.
The waist line il well defined just be-
low the bust, although the skirt fits
closely to the figure.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05

and cuffs.
The tailored waist OF q figured
muslin shows the return Of the double
ruffie down the front. which Is I'm
ished at neck in a small bow. The
sleeves are tucked lengthwise. which
is a little bit odd. and the cuffs are
turned back and fastened with gold
cuff links usually seen on masculine
apparel.
All Of these waists are very good
looking. and all of them would grace
any sort of morning suit with
which they were worn. The striped 10
undoubtedly the most severe OF the
lot. and It might better be reserved
for occasions where athletics are to
play a part
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05
Woman in.Ca1ico
and in Satin

U is one thing to get good clothes:
1t is quite another to wear them
well and to keep them good look
ing.
When material Is selected with
great discrimination, style chosen
with special reference to fitness. de-
sign accepted with an eye to becom-
ingness, when the finished costume
comes home-a work OF art, a dream
that is not all
A woman, to be always htly aA1
well gowned. has more to Do tAAo
merely to select. plan. stand for ut
tings and accomplish all the rest OF
the strenuous work consequent upoa
the semi-annual repletion. Of her
wardrobe.
She has got to care for these clothes.
once she has acquired them, and Ii Is
a toss-up which woman has the more
arduous occupation-the woman with
a gown or the woman with a full
wardrobe!
The woman with a gown must needs
sew daily on her gown; the woman
with a full wardrobe finds variety In
her daily task. but is none the less
arduous and insistent.
So the woman in calico and the
woman in satin have just about an
equal amount of responsibility. and, IL
you notice. you will find this holds In
other lines besides the clothes line.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05

linen worn with q most severe linen
stock to match the material. This is not
ornamented in any way except by the
pleat on the shoulder known a. the
Gibson pleat. This waist would be USE
ful for almost any severe dress.
An extremely different type is that
made Of q bordered linen. This II cut
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05

and general effect OF this waist is
good. for 1t does not give too full an
effect in the front. Another waist IL
made much on the same plan. except
that it has graduated ruffie down
one side of the front. This Is also
embroidered in color. and the same
material Is used to make the collar
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05
Note PAPER Novelties

NOVEL stationery is shown in del
~ icate plaid in pastel shades-dain-
test lavender and palest pink, lightest
green and most indefinite yellows. They
are. OF course. made of the usual cam
brio papers, which are both smooth and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05

gee. linen and wooden materials have
accompanying tailored waists of linen.
nainsook or madras. the material vary
ing according to tho style Of the mo-
ment There are many varieties Of the
tailored waist. both In cut and In color
and even IN the style OF trimming.
One waist shown today 10 q striped
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05
SEEN IN THE SHOP S

Mirage is a new relation. very lus-
trous, like nothing so much as
changeable silk. for the filing thread
is a different shade from the warp.
The uneven thread running through
1t proves, however. that it is Of the
pongee family. 1t Is much used Tor
tailored suits, in spite Of. or because
of, its satiny appearance. It's price is
s1.s5 the yard and it measures twen-
ty-four Inches.
These finish the real pongees. al
though there are several cheaper ma
terials. with one silk and one linen or
cotton thread. They are pretty. but
do not hold their color Well. They
cost 30 cents the yard and are TWEEN
ty-four inches wide.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-07-05

IT. HE lingerie blouse and the tailored
waist-two terms of comparative
ly recent origin. and. although
they havo both been used in the past
few years. their meanings we're not
nearly so distinct Is they are at the
present moment.
One is allowed to wear a lingerie
blouse with long skirt. A blouse may
even be appropriately worn with a lib
erty satin afternoon suit as well as
with a broadcloth suit. where the skirt
is long and the coat IL trim and tight
fitting.
The tailored waist is an entirely Diff
ferent story. 1t must be worn only
with tailored suits. as the name implies.
Plainly cut walking costumes Of pop.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06
Pearls in Australian Waters.

The pearl is the best known of Aus tralian gems, and for many years thousands of dollars worth have been secured in Queensland The oyster fisheries of Thursday island have been the chief source of supply, but pearls are found all along the Queens land coast.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06
Carnival Disquises Stick.

Pleas, birds and animals painted in green on the faces of scores of revelers as disguises for a carnival at Las Palmas, Canary Islands. won't come off and experts say never will. A chemist named Alonson, who did the work, was almost lynched, and 80 victims have sued him for damages.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Among those attending con- ference this fall are Mrs. Linsey, Kenner Kartchner, Mrs. Kartch- ner, Bishop Hunt, Jos. H. Rich ards, Wallace Shumway, Mrs. Shumway, Charles RhOton and Mrs. RhOton, Dick Brown. The folio wing couples are to be mar ried in Salt Lake: Miss Hunt to Allen Miller, Miss Hancock to Sam Baird, Miss Riggs to Jos. S. Fish, Miss Porter to ]. Clark Owens.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06
Heed Not That Call.

It Is a terrible error to suppose that because you relish "Wordsworth's solemn-thoughted idyl, or Tennyson's enchanted reverie," therefore you have a call to run off to write bad verse at the lakes or the Isle of Wight I beseech you not all to turn to authorship.-John Morley.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06
Promise of the Future.

What is a rainbow but just clouds and everyday sunshine, far enough away to be marvelously beautiful? Some time we may see things that seem prosaically common and near at hand now, even thus glorified.-Zion's Herald.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Lieutenant Christy arrived from Oakland Saturday accom- pan1ed by Mrs. Christy. The newly married couple left Sunday morning for Ft. Apache where they expect to live for some time.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Mrs. Hass left during the week for her future home m Oakland. She had been here a few days on a visit to her parents, MT. and Mrs. McAllister.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

John Hurley was in town from Snowflake Saturday on business. He is now helping some Flagstaff parties with some cattle.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Attorney Norris of Prescott left Sunday morning for St. Johns where he has business before the court.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Miss Mary Smith and Miss Lettie Richards are gone to Salt Lake where they will attend school. Don C. Smith goes to Provo to the academy. All three will attend the conference at Salt Lake before taking up their school studies.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

The court order came a little late this year, reaching the clerk of the district court on the 29th of the month. The next day the drawing for both grand and petit jurors took place in the presence ofCIerk Woods, Probate fudge Smith, and Under-Sheriff Allen.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Jos. $. Fish will go direct from Salt Lake to Chattanooga where he is to take a four years course in the law school.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

MT. Udall and h1s two sons from St. Johns left for Salt Lake to attend conference. The two young men will leave on mis- sion to the southern states very soon.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

George Hennessey left the middle of the week for few days visit to the Albuquerque fair.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Both politicalparties held their primaries at the court house on the first day of the month. There was no excitement and but few voters were in evidence. The democrats elected Dick Grigsby and George Hennessy as delegates to the county convention to be held here on the 10th, while the republicans elected H. H. ScOrse, w. B. Woods, and John ConnOrs as their delegates.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Attorney J. E. Jones of Flag staff passed through Holbrook Sunday en route to the county seat of Apache county where he has several cases up before the district court.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Probate Judge R. C. Smith, made q business trip to Winslow Saturday.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Miss Shaw from Missouri has taken charge of the primary school at Pinedale for the winter. Miss Shaw was accompanied by her brother who will stay for a short time to hunt and fish.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Mir. Graham Is in Holbrook organizing temperance club for the purpose of spreading the doctrine of temperance in this part of Arizona.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Sheriff Woods was able to be out Sunday and left at once for WinslOw to attend to some pres sing business connected with the coming term of the district court. It will be Joe's busy week for there is more than the ordinary amount of business before the court this session.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

John Nelson and George Wilbur returned the latter part of the week from Kansas City where they had gone with q shipment of fat lambs. These lambs aver aged a little over seventy-niue pounds which topped the market tor this season. Both Wilbur and Nelson left for Heber Sunday morning.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Judge Sloan accompanied by Mrs. Sloan arrived in Holbrook Saturday evening and left at an early hour Sunday for St. Johns where the district court holds fourth the present week.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Henry Jennings, after a short vacation at home, returned to the survey party west of Keams Canyon. Henry has a steady job as teamster for the government.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Lafe Jennings is back in Hol- brook again having accepted employment from Shumway Brothers. If your goods are not delivered in time or the winters S coal don't come, just lay 1t onto Lafe; that is what he IS there for. He stood 1t a long time last season which goes to show he can stand 1t this season.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

in the law school. Young Crosby has a host of friends here who wish him every success. He will no doubt make a acapable lawyer.
 District Attorney Geary came up from Winslow during the week. He is very busy getting things ready for the next term ot the district court which convenes here on the 12th of this month.
 Probably the heaviest wind for a long time swept over Holbrook and vicinity last Friday. Outside of tOppling over few aged trees and filling all the houses with sand no great damage was done
 Mir. H. H. ScOrse and Miss Julia Scorse returned Friday from a few days visit to the big fair and lrrigating congress at Albu- querque. They say the at tendance was not as large as ex- pected.
 Judge Sloan accompanied by Mrs. Sloan arrived in HOlbrOOk Saturday evening and left at an early hour Sunday for St. Johns where the district court holds fourth the present week.
 Attorney J. E. Jones of Flag staff passed through Holbrook Sunday en route to the county seat of Apache county where he has several cases up before the district court.
 Miss Shaw from Missouri has taken charge of the primary school at Pinedale for the winter. Miss Shaw was accompanied by her brother who will stay for a short time to hunt and fish.
 Henry Jennings, after a short vacation at home, returned to the survey party west of Keams Canyon. Henry has a steady job as teamster for the government.
 Mir. Graham Is in Holbrook organizing a temperance club for the purpose of spreading the doctrine of temperance in this part of Arizona.
 John Hurley was in town from Snowflake Saturday on business. He is now helpingsome Flagstaff parties with some cattle.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

MT. Jesse Crosby left Sunday morning for Ann Arbor where he Is to take a thorough course i'll the law school. Young Crosby lias a host of friends here who wish him every success. He will no doubt make a capable lawyer.
Holbrook argus., 1908-10-06

Probably the heaviest wind for a long time swept over Holbrook and vicinity last Friday. Outside of toppling over few aged trees and filling all the houses with sand no great damage was done