davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09

chic the effect. The particular collar
became enthusiastic over was of string
coored valenciennes and an apple green
satin bow. In the portrait Illustrated of
Nine. du Barry. the drapery around the
hat and the ribbons upon the hair and at
tine throat are pale gray. They harmon
ize beautifully with the ladys lovely blue
eyes and simple white gown.
Tussore. Silk for Tailor Mades.
The material which seems to he at
tracing the best Partisan tailors just now
Is tussore silk. and this is certainly going
to be the most fashionable fabric of the
season. and everything is to be said in It's
favor. From a merely economical point
OF view tussore I'm the natural tint Is In
valna BILE. 1t never shows signs of dust
and the material does not easily crush,
and when wrinkled 1t ia easy matter
TO press 1t into shape again. | confess
To "A weakness for all white frocks for
summer wear. but at the same time
know that white linen and thin cloth cos
look well when perfectly fresh. and their
constant visits to the cleaners mount up
the cost. But much more chic than white
is frock OF pale beige tussore worn with
shoes OF the same color and big black
hat TussOre In the natural color bar
monies delightfully."- with ivory lace and
embroidery in a blouse. and altogether
such getup as l have described would be
stunning for girl who wanted To hit II
up In the high places this summer and
who could not afford to spsnd much
money on her clothes. As this tussore
silk is so fashionable it will be useful to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09

make a few, remarks about it, For the
skirts-round and clearing the ground by
at lea 1.-TWO inches-hat piaits are best
and these skirts should be unlined and
worn over a perfectly fitted petticoat of
thin taffeta.. the silk being OF the same
shade as the tuSsore | am not recon-
mending tafeta petticoats as rule. to
be adhered TO for the average gown but
in cOniunc tor with tussore they are a
necessity. as the latter material is OF a
''draggly" nature and calls for support
A petticoat of thin taffeta cut and fitted
exactly like a round gored skirt with a
plated friIl at the bottom. would not In
terfere in the least with the clinging eff
feet of the skirt Then three quarter
length coat of picturesque outline. braided
or not, worn over a delicate blouse of
tucket net and lace or embroidered mus
lin would complete a mighty smart little
suit.
With such costume a large picture
nat or black straw could be worn. and
tucked away In the belt everything would
go well. -,
One OF the nattiest suits l have seen
lately was worn by an American girl at
the Ritz. Ii was of tussore. but in a
lovely shade of gray blue, and the plated
skirt fell in most graceful folds. The
coat was long and rather severe in cut.
II was lined with q thin. taffeta and in
passing let me, say that all these tussore
coats are the letter for this support The
jacket am describing was absolutely
plain in Its tailor finish save for six ex-
quisite buttons OF filigree silver incrusteS
with 'tlrT'qdoises: The blouse was made of
nm, y tucked net, with insertions Of vene-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09

tan point. and at the throat there was the
smartest little taffeta tie of black satin,
the ends being pointed and finished with
turquoise drops. With this dress an i'm
mense black hat OF erin was worn. and
a the left side there were three black
aigrets standing out from the full crown.
The wearer of the charming gown had
singnlarly perfect complexion and guam
tity of pale brown hair. and l assure you
the ensemble was generally admired.
Coats Difficult to Classify.
In coats the styles are difficult to elias
sify They are long or short very much
trimmed or extremely plain. and the
sleeves are long or short. The one char
acteristic in common seems to he the
half fitting sloping cutaway that has a
THOUSAND ways of being treated. There
are too, funny little coats with all sorts
of jagged outlines that in themselves are
perfectly absurd as far as fashion anat
omy goes. but when turned out by Rue
de la Paix or Place Vendome artist are
distinctly smart And to the Parsenne
the walking suit has two interpretations
IL may mean short skirt and jacket,
plain or jupe SO sweeping that the
woman who wears 1t Is Obliged to copy
the actions of a thoroughbred cob to be
able TO circumnavigate.
1t is possibly the selection of their sum-
mer wardrobe that is making the verti-
cal burrows on the faces of the shoppers
one sees in the avenues. We fashion
writer's go TO amending trouble In suggest
ing modish and charming costumes To-
lair women's adoTnment, but how often
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09
Hat Trimmings.
From Vogue.


All kinds of fruit have revival.
peaches. plums and cherries in natural
and fancy hues. branches of blackberries
and currants strawberres and the small
wild cherries are carelessly fastened on
hat brms and crowns in most tempting
way
Velvet and silk geraniums in their natu-
ra tones. set up high conforming to the
aigrette idea. in garlands around the
crown are used in great quantities.
Masses of small tight rosebuds placed
on the sharply turned-up brims of small
hats or set closely around the beret
crowns produce extremely good effect.
Woodbine in scattered. struggling sprays
trims tulle and straw crowns and is very
much in favor.
Very long and narrow pheasant quilts
and those made of lophophore plumage
slightly curving and having as finish a
head OF the same or in contra sting color
with jeweled eyes. are frequently the sole
trimming of the very large sailors worn
This season.
OF the new colors. blue after rain is a
new tint of pale blue.
Fuchsia is a vivid shade of great beauty.
showing the same purplsh undertone as
the flower.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09
New Fashion Feature.

If there is one feature that will domi-
nate the new frocks II is the broad front
panel that runs from the bust to the foot
line or from belt to hem.
1t is put on nearly all the elaborate
afternoon and evening gowns showing up
the latter in artistic embroidertes of SILK
floss and sequins and colored glass beads
1t shows up on the afternoon gown in
wonderful designs OF soutache done In
self tones or ia harmonious blending.
In the straight tailored street suit the
panel on the skirt is nearly always has
or made Of a striped material going
straight across In design and often with
a seam up the center and buttoned down
the edge.
The new linen skirt for summer wear
either with jumpers TO match or to be
worn with white shirt waists, shows a
double box plat down the front with
row of pearl buttons on each side.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09

the journey to the tennis court or goif
links. Many persons play those games
without any kind OF hat. bun one must
be equipped properly TO get To the neid.
The Undermine.
Some Of the new Charlotte Cordsy hats
or those on that order show lace rufhes
or plated tuile under the brim. These
require a very full arrangement OF the
hair and pompadour or puns tna'
will hold the ruff1es out and MOI allow
them to sag in a dragging, fashion over
the couture. The Parisians 'auach these
ruffies al the foot only. and the rune ar
rufiies not really attached until the
hat is worn. the aspect OF the nat 50
trimmed off the head is not am enga gtne
one.
Embroidery in Colors.
OF the fine null and linen waists TO be
worn with he more dressy "a JAN and mo-
hair tailored coats and skirts. embroid-
cry in colors matching the gown costume
may be used or color carrying out the
color used in some detail Of the gowns
trimming. Deicately tinteds linens In pale
blue, green and rose color may he en-
broidered I'm black brown or wha
color goes well with the linen and
matches some color in the costume
Mauve and yellow are charming In linen
embroidered In darker self tones Of the
same color. il mauve; IL yellow. then In
brown or black.
Corsets for Clinging Gowns.
The folds of the new frocks are draped
so closely about the figure that not only
must the lingerie be most carefully tai
lored. but the corset also must be per-
fectly cut and fitted.
prominent dressmaker says. "A good
corset is the snort cut 10 the fashionable
figure" There are innumerable good coz.
sets-ready made and built to order-tc
be had. for the corset makers are quick
to feel the impending changes In the
world OF fashion and never are behind
hand in having model ready on the
lines of the latest figure Therefore II 10
a simple matter to find corsets which
really do ell they claim in giving the
slender. willowy lines which are so fash
fonable.
The corset makers use various methods
to get rid of that annoying supernuous
flesh which gathers around the hips. In
some corsets IL is smOothed down. awav
from the waist and taken care or ~ the
extension of the corset, which reaches a.
most to the kree in an CnDoned material.
In other models the flesh Is lifted and
nodded into the waist line in front. where
the corsets are built out into almost
curve to accommodate II.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09
Hats, Feathers and Shapes.
From Vogue.

Aigrettes abound. and so do Paradise
feathers dyed in every color. well as
ostrich in plumes and tips. and those conf
posite creations that turn the hat itself
into a huge birdlike thing. never seen on
land or sea. but unquestiOned since il is
la mode. That One-sided upturned hat
brim be the crown what 1t may in height.
Is the favOrite shape for dress purposes
as it carries a certain elegance and chic
ness appropriate to the season. Black
net and black lace hats, with fea her Or
namentation, as we'll as the same style of
hat with exquisite feather and let trim
mings. are also dress hats meeting with
the highest approval.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09
Button trimmings for Frocks.

Handsome buttons are a feature Of the
new gowns. and exceedingly pretty eff
fects may be carried out at home for
trimming linen frocks
wee bit of ecru net embroidered in
soft blues or any desired shades laid over
button mold first covered with silk the
tone of the net would be lovely. yet would
cost only trifle
Again. button molds covered with a
piece Of cretonne of a very good quality
outlined with tiny frill of black satin
ribbon would be most effective. Soutache
braid sewed round and round on scra rs
Of chiffon broadcloth Is another cover.
suggestion for buttons.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09

pretty, but there is something very at
tractive about her face-such sweet ex-
pression? And. after all. that is the
highest kind of beauty. for expression is
there to the last. making the face charm
ing to look upon while beauty fades.
-"Ah. vest carpine critics will say. 1T
is sl very well to preach this kind Of
thing. Tut how is one to look pleasant
when one is bowed down with care. worry
"a nd unha ppiness?" MY experience is thai
those who have real troubles not the
people who wear unpleasant expressions.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09

The effect of the most rayiShinS gown is
completely spoiled by the disagreed BILE
EXPRESSION of It's wearers face. Gould
the most becoming hat look its best over
face that refused 10 smile? One Of
woman's missions in life is 10 beautify
this old world and frOwning face is a
blot on the landscape. 1t is so easy. 100,
TO cultivate a serene and pleasant express
sion without verging in the least bit TO-
ward a silly smirk. In ones own partic-
ular circle is there not macy woman OF
Ebom one NAV say She is not exactly
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09
The Latest Fashion Ideas From Partisan Sources

1t is too often those who have everything
that health wealth and position can give
But if those worries do bring a worried
look just try the following lines as an
auto suggestion:
If we look Upon the bright side
u is sure TO be the right side
At least that's how I've found II
Az I've iourneyed through each day.
And It's queer how shadows vanish;
And easy tits to Danish
From bright side sort Of nature
Every doiefuI thing away.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09
Diana Turban Is Popular.

In the newest millinery models the small
hat especially the turban. is seen in num-
bers of chic designs. One is STYLED the
Diana" fascinating little shape of
fancy white lacy braid which at dis
lance looks like fine lace. 1t is trimmed
with a whorl of pink roses and green
leaves at the left side. thus basing high
military plume of ably blue marabou.
This is q most charming apeau and one
which is quite apt ITO prove generally be-
coming
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09

year IL promises to be taken up. 1t viii
be especially used on white gowns. hut.
as a rule, 1t Is prettier on colored ones.
Care Is needed In the choice OF cretonne.
What may look pretty in a piece is not
effective when cut into small bands
Small designs are needed and something
that shows harmonixing colora
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09
Chintx Trimmed Frock.

Last summer a few fashionable gowns
were brought out In which English chintz
or cretonne was used for bands or belts
The idea was not elaborated. and re-
NAMED pretty much in obscurity. This
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09

line. Then. 100. me lady OF 1AtS If she
have any pride AT ali. has been forced TO
learn to keep her shoes and stockings in
good order. simply because the modern
abbreviated skirt makes the feet play
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09

picture of cbarminsly stylish woman.
katherine Elkns who is to become a
princess and a duchess in one. is one of
the girls who cling to the plain sailor
hat. untrimmed save for black band.
F.nglshwomen and those who follow the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09

lead OF Regent street rather than that of
the Rue de Ia PaiX also wear the plain
sailor. Strangers have smiled 10 see the
Baroness Won Hengelmuller in costly furs
and straw sailor hat doing her Wash
ington shopping. The sailor hat is used for
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09

very greatly By thu present fashion in
clot hes. To-day most collars are made on
the dress. and nfost belts are an insepara
bile part of the gown. 50 there is pracii-
call. no'chsnce for neckbands TO pop out
large Safety pins to show at the waist
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1908-05-09

PARIS. April o. 1903.
4 r the I.yceunf Club. in the Rue de
~ la Renaissance. there is being
"a held an exhibition of pictures
II painted by women. The most in
The San Francisco call., 1908-05-08
Two Hundred Anxious Sailors Guarded
Evans While Sick Admiral Slept
Pretty Story From Santa Barbara Shows Mutual
Love Existing Between Commander and Boys

him-that's his way. He's the father OF
every man on the fleet.
Why, sir the young man went on
one night shortly after we arrived in
Magdalena bay the admiral was ter
ribly Ill and we men believed he was
going to die. That night was an anx-
ious one for as. He sent an orderly
up for two of Us. and when the men
reached his side he whispered request
that they get two other iackies and
carry him up to the bridge.
The boys wondered at that, but the
admiral said he'd like to be there. II
was quiet: there was quite a noise
from the officers wardroom- So the
boys carried him up to the bridge and
laid him comfortably on a cot. tucked
him in and stood at attention
NOW boys" said the admiral. q
feel better; I want to s.eep; could not
sleep down there. That's good. Thanks
boys. Good night"
And then he slept-slept like a
child and there we were more than
200 of US, sitting about the deck, tip
toeing when we moved. breathless. al
most, while the old man slept. And be-
lieve me, sir, he slept Well
Mr.. McComber says that the other
three sailors corroborated the story told
by their companion. 1t was told as
an incident illustrating the democracy
of the admiral and the love borne him
by his men.
The San Francisco call., 1908-05-08
SPECIAL DISPATCH TO THE CALL

EIAhL DA0IAlOd ~ LIE tAl@l4
SANTA BARBARA May 1.-THE story
of how more than 200 bluejackets.
quiet as mice, watched oyer Rear Ad-
miral Robley D. Evans throughout one
night soon after the big fleet reached
Magdalena bay. was told by four of
those who participated in that night
long vigil on board the flagship while
the ships were in these waters. The
quartet met a local businessman who
invited them to dine with his family
at home. This man was George w.
McComber
These boys" said Mr.. McComber, la
ter, could give some of us pointers
on table etiquette. They were gentle
men. all four OF them, and l didn't
pick them, either. They were courteous
to me while / was aboard the flagship
and 1 asked them to have dinner at
my home. While at my home they told
me one of the prettiest and most touch
ing stories that has come from the
big fleet.
II asked the sailors what they
thought of Admiral Evans.
What do we think OF himi ex-
claimed one of the four. Why. he's a
father to us; he thinks more of us
and our comfort than he does of hts
officers. It's always his men first with
The San Francisco call., 1908-05-08
California Promotion Committee
IORGANIZED 1000


"PROMOTION-The act OF promoting; advance-
ment; encourage Century Dictionary
Its object the PROMOTING OF California as 4
whole Il has nothing to sell. Its energies are
devoted &c fostering all things that have thu
1t gives reliable Information every subject
connected with the industries OF California IL
OF new industries and invites desirable immixra-
ttcn. 1t IS not an Employnent Agency although
y gives infornatton- regarding labor conditions
fields OF business and professional activity This
committee IS supported by popular subscription
and makes no charge for any service rendered
AFFILIATED with the committee are 100 CONNER
clsl organizations Of the state. with member
ship OF over $4,000. Meetings are held semi
matters OF state interest discussed. Head
quarters OF the committee maintained IN san
Francisco In California building. Union souara
CORRESPONDENCE Inv TIED.
The San Francisco call., 1908-05-08
PROPOSE RACE FOR
FLEET ON ATLANTIC
Officers Will Bring Suggestion
to Attention of Navy Depart
ment at Once

Imagine Is great battleships, the
pride of the American navy, making a
wild dash across the Atlantic ocean.
each for itself, from the shadow of
Gibraltar into the shadow of the god
dess of liberty in New York harbor.
It sounds like a wild dream. yet SO
did the proposed cruise from Hampton
roads to San Francisco bay sound like
a wild dream but few months ago,
and now the fleet is here. The nations
of the world have rubbed the sand out
of their eyes and scratched their ears
thoughtfully over the successfuI- cul-
mination of this record smashing cruise
and now, just as they are accustoming
themselves to the idea that it was ac-
complished without mishap, comes the
news that these 16 ships of the Atlantic
navy are to go around the globe. The
announcement Is made with as much
unconcern as though such a jaunt were
nothing more than an afternoon consti-
tutional for the steel warriors of the
sea.
The foreign world is still gasping for
breath and lest even this should not
prove sufficient to make it remembe
comes talk of another plant to turn
these giants loose at the culmination
of the voyage for a mad race over a
course of 5000 miles OF open sea.
WANT TEST OF SPEED
When the Atlantic fleet reaches
Gibraltar after its circumnavigation of
the globe it will have proved it's eff
cheney in all details of sea maneuvering
save one. Its travelling ability and
capacity to reserve it's fuel and food
supplies are the cause of wonder, the
efficiency of it's gunners has surprised
the world, its discipline is perfect and
It's preparedness at all times for at
4. hos = =
in countless ways. Only the question
of speed has received no consideration.
Now the men of the fleet want a
speed test. 1t has been easy they say,
The San Francisco call., 1908-05-08

alignment, shoulders squared heads
back. He leaned farther out of the
carriage as If trying to burn every face
and every figure in his memory.
BIDS HIS MEN FAREWELL
His eyes greeted every man, and they
answered back as the marines had
done. 1t was deep calling to the deep.
A man speaking to men. Silent was the
farewell amid the tumult of popularity.
Not hand was lifted not word
spoken. Company after company
marched by and to each was given the
pathetic glance.
Fighting Bob Fighting Bobn'
The crowds, augmented by the thou
sands who had swarmed after the tail
end of the parade, cleaved the heavens
with their cry. The huzzahs were
rocketed up and down the line. The
cheers became tempestuous
1t seemed petty and small in connec-
tion with the pathos of the scene in the
street. The shouting was given him.
The glanees from the men he had won.
And so they went by company after
company, ship after ship; all the old
comrades of a lifetime marched by him.
1t was his final review A smile
twitched his lips at the sight of some
mascot, but it was feeting. Heaven
knows the moment was not for smiles.
ACTIVE CAREER is ENDED
To him it was recognition of the
fact that his duty had been done, his
race run and nevermore would he tread
the deck in command of the men swift
ly passing before his vision. All was
over The ships would go to sea, but
he would not be there. They would
dip gracefully to ocean swell, but he
would not know the pleasure. New
men. younger men, would step forward
at the country's call, but not under his
leadership. For him life meant the
haven OF the hearthstone. the port of
peace, and If the looks he cast meant
anything his brave old heart was being
torn Life would sail on and the old
war horse would step baclS-Rear Ad-
miral Robley ID. Evans, United States
navy, retired
The last company went by, the last
glance was given and he sank back
in his seat, utterly spent and worn
He looked old now, did Evans, very ole
and very sad. The regiments cIattered
by horse, foot and guns. But what
cared he2 His heart was with the
white hats and cleaning rifle barrels
which had gone by He sat stilli and
silent. The throngss repeated their ap-
plause. All the shouting that had gone
before seemed to have become concen-
trated at this juncture into one hoarse
roar. but he paid no heed.
BATTLE FLAGS ROUSE HIM
1t was the sight OF the old battle
flags carried by the veterans of the
civil war that brought to him life
again He knew those fiags. He had
fought in that war and there was the
bond of sympathy between him and the
aged soldiers proudly holding them
aloft. They dipped the old flags as his
carriage passed and his hat flew off his
head. He grasped the sides of the car
riage in an effort to rise but fell back
in pain. Following the veterans of
the civil war came the veterans of the
The San Francisco call., 1908-05-08
MORE POWDER TO
BURN FOR METCAlF
Fleet Uses 10000 Pounds Of
Smoky Explosive in
Saiutes
Noisy Gladness OF Social Greet
ings Runs Up Big Total in
l4,OOO Mile Run

Since the Atlantic feet left Hampton
roads it has burned for saluting ppr
poses about $1,000 pounds OF powder.
Old fashioned black powder that makes
much noise and plenty OF smoke in
exploding is used in these social shoot
ing tests 1t Is inexpensive compared
with the smokeless explosive used for
business conversations, but il costs
money Just the same
In saying ~howdy'' to the president
one ship uses AZ pounds OF black
powder. When sixteen ships Join in
greeting the chief executive 672 pounds
of black powder Is reduced TO harm
less ashes. President Roosevelt saw
good deal OF the fleet before il
started. and firing salutes in his honor
used up 2.SSS pounds OF powder. The
salute that VIII be fired today in honor
OF the secretary Of the navy Will burn
up slS pounds OF the smoky brand.