The sun., 1908-03-22

OF fare not the bills OF fare, Of course,
at the hotels, but in the restaurants. Tus-
cany elects the arrangement that IN good
enough FOR the rest Of the world and refuses
to begin with SOUPS and end with coffee
The foods on the bill OF fare are divided in
accordance with the way they ar cooked
Thus fish may be there under fried, boiled ,
stewed or roasted II takes some practice
for the American diner to avoid eating a
dinner exclusively OF boiled dishes when he
sits down.
That danger is not present al Mellinls,
which IL perhaps the most popular Tuscan
eating house in lloTenCe leOause some
of the dishes are Get down in French. Mel
lni's, which sire ches from the Via Cal2a-
ioli 10 the squae. he, long divans along
tho walls and ls supplied with bar at
which ices and cakes are served The
bill OF fare changes only once n day. One
must eat the same for lunch and dinner.
There is OF course variety enough 10
select from the bin two meals without
repeating tte dishes. but No speCial rrepara-
ton i made for the evening 'isitns.
In the same street and equally native
in its patronage and its cuisine is Ia TOs-
cana. There the fish is brought from
Ieghorn, and the drselle which Ia not nm
like a muSsel, is especially praised hy
patrons NJ the place There are Of course
much more fashionable restaurants in other
parts Of the town, but they are wholly
continental, and thprc is scarcely trace
of the Tuscan cuisine. There are not
many really local dishes in Florence Fowls
are especially go"d there. and il comes
shout that giblets stew ed in white wine
are n specially Of the city, and beef brais6,
cooked with tomatoas. has long been a
favorite Tuscan dish Then there are
kidneys with white wine and cepas, called
rognoaC irifotdt. noodles with meat sauce
or butter sauce pastry balls stuffed with
chopped uE meat or cheese, and called
in different parts Of Italy ravioli or caDa-
letti OF agnolotti In Florence they are
known by the first title.
Then all the Milanese dishes have been
brought into the Tuscan menu 50 that
chicken Is prepared with risotto or rice OF
noodles Then there are the various kinds
OF veal outlets, which include one that Is
stewed in red wine, and another more exotic
still, which is surrounded with ham, then
put into halter and finally fried and served
with lemon.
In Venice there is the same interest await
ing the explorer in cooking There are
several kinds Of fish that are famed as
part Of the classic Venetian cuisin, and
they Of course never find their way TO
the table OF any hotel supported by Ameri-
can and English guests. The most famous
restaurant In the lagoon city Is German In
name and cosmopolitan in the character Of
It's cuisine The two places on the piazza, ,
especially Florian's, are. expensive, and the
cafe named Is indeed famed as the most
costly IN Europe. II has few eatables.
At the Quadri opposite moro persons dine
and lunch, although II Is scarcely purely
Venetian any longer.
The Cappello Nero, on the other hand.
which stands At the entrance 70 the
Merceria. under the clock tower back Of
ST. Mares, il purely Italian. So are the
Bella venezia and the Academia. although
they are even less pretsntious than the