The San Francisco call., 1908-03-22
NEW NOTIONS IN SHIRT WAISTS

The sleeves are slightly full and are finished below
elbow by tucked band which matches the guimpe
the neck band of lace insertion finishes the
opening and also is used the sleeve seam across
the top of the shoulder.
The waist shown here is made of white net with
light pattern in darned effect running through it.
The guimpe sleeve bands of plain net tucked
and the insertion used is an imitation Cluny This
waist was made with covert suit. and
under the Cluny bias strips of absinthe
green velvet. The gisdie also was of the velvet
One feature of some of the sleeves this spring
spoken of as new feature which reality is
old recent date. is putting narrow tucks
across the sleeve-say FIVE seven-these
tucks throwing fulness to the outside A which
would be particularly becoming to a slender woman
with some height her made of soft messaline
pink. The back of the waist was cut
plain also the front, opens in the front
The neck in the front is cut out in a deep v and
broad cape which forms the chief decoration of
the blouse is made of piece OF the silk cut on the
bias There narrow tucks, slightly graduated IN
length all around the neck at right angles to
the opening These make the collar fall easily and
gracefully. The ends in the front shaped they
fall in point and cross by other and
the top the girdle The outside edge of the collar
is cut deep scalops and buttonholed in silk the
color o the waist.
The three-auarter length finished with "a
frin which matches the collar, and sheer muslin
chemisette tucked is in the neck The grdle
velvet in deeper shade and dantier dressier
blouse woman need wish :
y y
waist suitable Tor business travelling, any pur-
well copied from the model shown having the double
row of the front A plain surah taffeta
silk would make wel also something on the order
wash crepe The waist can be trimmed with
stitched bands material, silk cotton
braid according the material used for the body OF
and an attractive example is shown. 1t is made OF
chiffon be net or lace blouse II
four inches above the waist
line in the 'front.' and the neck is finished with plain
rolling of satin in contrasting color The pima
double breasted where fastens and four hand
buttons used There are Two shouder pialts
the outside one covering the where the little
circular sleeve is put This sleeve has rolled
back cuff which matches the collar and altogether is
bewitching affair Lingerie blouses have not beer
touched upon in this article but will be taken up II
the future.
Separate coats still are to be worn; the usua
style of garment one associates with the idea of thu
separate coat. however. and which has been writer
about much, the loose fitting model that at ono
recognized a thing apart from the gown wori
with it, whether it was elaborate or simple fne neV
coat which has appeared is quite distinct In nj an'
design following closely the ideas OF the present sea
in all its details, yet available ior NUMBER
gowns And they are jaunty and decidedly chic, espe
cially becoming to slender figure
Its distinctive features the short waist, fanc
vest and loose tie. This would charming made II
tan and, while might not be able to bu
pattern which exact model of this there ar
others similar in design which could be used to max
this by. The loose kmono sleeves and coat are al
idea which been used by the Russian
for years in their blouses, etc
The coat is cut UP in the front, beginning at tn
bottom and six inches the front This cuts up
high waist line The waist fullness is laid in thre
small paits and put into semi-circular piece whc
extends far in the 1t does in the front tn
short wasted effect heightened by the three sma
gilt buttons which attached to this skirt part
In fitting this little coat must be left quite loos
The attaching of the little circular skirt gives jus
e enough of fitted look. The vest should be made
velvet darker shade the coat, and the doub
collar and cuffs materials the larger an
E being of the cloth and upper tn
velvet AS be cuffs lack about three nche
t of meeting on the top and most graceful finish
given to the sleeve the plaits laid as they jus
to meet at the bottom sleeve and held in plae
s by four large velvet covered buttons The loose t
: ends are made of soft with tiny fr,nged ends
This coat would require three three and
half yards of fortyfour goods at So yard,
t three-quarters Of yard of velvet at 81 yard tt
d lining could be of India silk which, with the silk Il
n the tie and the buttons would make moderate price
or an1,th zin1a and :.