davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-25

one-half inch from the edge. For fat button
the buttonhole should be cut the size of the
width OF the button. For round bell shaped
buttons they should be cut and one-half the
width Of the button
The buttonhole must be held on the
end of the finger it stretches it badly but It
should be held between the thumb and forefinger
that the hole just below the top of the
side Of the forefnger. The first thing to do af-
ter cutting is to overcast from the wrong side
and In as fine stitches possible. When ready
to work hold the front edge of the buttonhole
toward you, run the needle into the material
the edge of the hole and toward you for
for several stitches, to secure the thread;
then working from right to left, put the needle
into the cloth fraction OF inch below the
cut edge and close to the back end bring the
needle half way through. take the two threads
at the eye of the needle and bring them toward
you at the right of the needle and under the
point from you drawing the needle through and
making knot or purl at the exact edge Of the
buttonbo1e Continue in this way. leaving
thread of the material between each stitch and
making each stitch lie fiat and When the
front end of the buttonhole Is reached the
stitches must radiate around the end perfectly.
They are not taken farther apart but the purls
lie closer together. although they must not ove-
lap
When the buttonhole is worked around both
ends and is finished stick the needle through to
the wrong side and two or three small
stitches under the place where the buttonhole Is
worked Then cut the thread of.
4 =
Many black hats are beautifully trimmed with
scarfs of white mousseline de sole and many
white feathers. These exceedingly refined
and attractive in spite of their great size hat
of heavy white ottoman silk was faced with
black velvet ard trimmed with many black
feathers. This worn by woman who was
tall slender and had black hair and she wore
costume of thin black stun with wondrous grace.
1t was of sem-transparent black Grape de chine.
The skirt hung little high waisted, was gath
cred ever so little under the belt, and fell In
beautiful fullness at the hem Under the false h
heavy silk were strung little weights which thre
gown into graceful folds The corsage was al
melange of tulle white lace over black and sed
glmpses of the palest shades Of color imaginal
ribbon nsets under lace or tulle, nearly hidd
though they were not expected to be seen yet the
was the result OF much thought Wonderful lace.
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-25

broideres and bits n gold silver lace are intro
duced Into the Uir1 scheme in this hidden fashion
What subtet| spplie4 10 clothes And how charming
=
wiz some wonnSh the wearing OF wells has become
an solute art, afeE1 perhaps. by the great size OF
- hats 1t 10 zst enough to fasten over the hat
one veil or even tws1 tere of, at least three
The San Francisco call., 1908-10-25

HERE are hundreds. no doubt. and per-
.haps thousands. of women in these Unit
ed States alone who have the education
and tastes Of their more wealthy sisters.
and who we'll understand what good
dressing means. and yet are confronted
with the fact Of having comparatively
little or nothing to expend on clothes.
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
INLAND WATERWAYS.

Action should be begun forthwith, dur
ing the present session or the Congress.
for the Improvement OF our inland
waterways-action which will result in
giving US not only navigable but navi-
gated rivers. We have spent hundreds
Of millions OF dollars upon these water
ways, vet the traffic on nearly all OF
them is steadily declining. This condi-
tiOn is the direct result Of the absence
OF any comprehensive and faI-seein6
plan OF waterway Improvement Obvi-
OuSly we can not continue thus 10 eX-
pend the revenues Of the Government
without return Il is poor business 10
spend money for inland navigation un-
leSS~gge get IL.
Inquiry into the condition OF the Mis-
SisSlppi and its principal tributaries Ie-
Neals very many Instances o. the utter
waste caused by the methods which
have hitherto obtained for the sO-Called
Improvement Of navigation \ stTtk-
ing instance Is supplied by the i'm
DTOvemeut" OF the Ohio, which, begun
in 1928. was continued under a single
plan for half a CentuI - In 1879 a new
plan was adopted and followed for
quarter OF a century. In 1902 still a dit-
feTent plan was adopted and has since
been pursued ar a rate which only prom
lses "A uavigaOle river in from twenty
10 one hundred years longer
Such shOrtsiEhted, vaCillatiug. and fu-
tile methods IRE accOmpanied By de-
cTeaSiuS tTafh congestion on land. by
increasing floods, and by the waste OF
public money. The remedy lies in
abandoning the methods which have so
signavy failed and adopting new ones
in keeping with the needs and demands
OF our people.
Until the work Of river in provement
Is undertaken in modern way il can
not have results that VIII meet the
needs OF this modern nation. These
needs should be met Without further
uilIy-dallying or delly. The plan which
promises the best and quickest results
Is that of d permanent commission au-
thorized to coordinate the work OF all
the Government departments relating
"a waterways, and TO frame and super
wise the execution OF a comprehensive
plan Under such = commission the &C
II Al WORK II construction might be en-
trusted u The ReCIs SlatiOn Service. or
to the military engineers acting Wilh
sufficient number OF CiviIis MS 10 CoTtin-
e the work in time of war: or IL might
ne Videi between the Reclamation
Service ar the corps II engineers.
-Uuds shJU.d he provided from cur
.e0t .ve1Ues II IL IS deemed wise
t.r- $" fTOr me sale or bonds. The
s. 81 .,un, is that The work should
vard JB'.er the hes possible plan,
aI 49, TIE cast possible delay. We
shS AYE 2 new type of work and
-s5w 0rEarI-atiOn for planning and di-
reCtirg 1t. The time tD- playing with
cur waterways IS past. The country de-
usn1- results
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
TO AID WORKERS.

4 years compensation is not ade-
quate for a wage earner-s family IN
the event OF his death
4 model employers liability law
for the District OF Columbia should
be passed.
All wagewOrkers in Government
employ should be given half holidays
during the sumer.
The eight-hour day principle
should be extended rapidly in all
Government work.
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
INTERSTATE FISHERIES.

call the attention OF the Congress TO
the Importance Of the problem OF the
fisheries IN the interstate waters On
the Great Lakes We are ROW, under the
very wise treaty o. April Il o. this
year. enGeavoring 70 come to an inter
national agreement for lhe preservation
and satisfactory use Of the fisheries OF
these waters which cannot otherwise be
achieved Lake Erie. for example has
tie richest fresh water fisheries in u c
world; but il Is nov controlled by the
statutes Of two nations, four States, anG
The Washington times., 1908-12-08

one province. and IL this province by
ordinances in different cOun-
Ties. All these political divisions work
at cross purposes, and in 10 case cen
they achieve protection 10 the fisheries
on the one hand and justice 10 the
localities and individuals on the ot.'er-
The case is similar in Puget Sound
But the problem is quite as pressing
in the interstate waters Of the United
The Washington times., 1908-12-08

are, under the Interior Department and
pohced by the army. The Congress
should provide for superintendents with
adequate corps OF, first-cIass civilian
scouts, or rangers. and furt Ter, place
the road construction. under the super
intendent instead Of leaving il with the
War Department. Such a change in
park mana agement would result in econ
omy and avoid the difficulties Of ad-
minISt ration which now arise from hav-
ing the responsibility Of care and pro-
lection divided between different de-
partments. The need for this course is
peculiarly great in the Yellowstone
Park. This. like the Yosemite. is a great
wonderland. and should he kent as 2
national playground In both all wild
things should be protected, and the
scenery kept wholly unmarried.
] am happy 10 say that I have been
able to set aside in various parts OF the
country small. well-CEosen tracts of
ground to serve as SanCtuaTieS and nuT-
series for - Id creatures
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
INDEPENDENT BUREAUS.

Economy snd sound business policy
require that all existing independent
bureaus anu commissions should be
placed under the jurisdiction Of sPpro-
pirate executive departments II IS uL-
wise from every standpoint and results
only in mischief 10 have Juy executive
work done save by the purely executive
bodies. under the control o. the Presl-
dent: and each such executive body
should be under the immediate superyl-
-L.n Of = LanIuer mLnlsLer-
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
FISHERIES AND FUR SEAL.

The Federal statute regulating inter
state traffic in game should be extend
ed to include fish. New FEDERAL fish
hatcheries should be established The
administration Of the Alaskan fur-seaI
service should be vested in the Bureau
OF Fisheries.
The Washington times., 1908-12-08

country II we do not exercise that wise
fOrethought which should be one OF the
chief marks Of any people calling itself
civilized. Nothing should be permitted
to stand il the way Of the preservation
Of the forests. AID il is criminal to per
nit individuals to purchase d little gdlL
for themselves through the destruction
Of forests when this destruction is fatal
TO the well-being OF the whole country
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
INSULAR WORK.

II is useless 10 have fortifcations
impreSnable in Hawaii from the sea
that arc open TO attack by land.
Panama canal work is being done
with speed, efficiency and devotion.
recommend the extension OF the
ocean mail act Of 1891.
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
GO HAND IN HAND.

Wis radicsIism and wise coasery-
at.sm 90 hand in. hand.
hope to see wagewo-kers Trosress
through the use Of machinery and
organize tion in business
Tnt greater the number, the
greater the principle to cooperation
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
STATEHoOD FOR NEW MExICO.

advocate the Immediate admission
OF New Mexico and Arizona as States
This should be done al the present ses-
sion OF Congress The people OF the two
Territories have made il evident BY
their votes that they VIII not COuie III
ss one state. Tie only alternative Is
TO ADMIT them - two. and L Jrust that
LIS VIII be nom. MLI-ous 60 -
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
SMALL INVESTORS.

I again renew my recommendation
fcr postal savings hanks.
Postal savings banks make il easy
Tor poor to keep savings N safety.
Corporate finances must be SUPER
vised to'make it safe for the poor to
invest savings in stocks.
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
FOREIGN AFFAIRS.

This nations foreign policy is based
on the theory that right must he done
between nations precisely as between
individuals. and in our actions for the
last fen wears We have in this matter
nroy-en our faith by our deeds We
have behaved. and are behaving, to-
ward other nations. as in private life
an honora bic man would behave toward
his fellows.
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
PRAISES ROUND THE WORLD CRUISE OF BATTLE FLEET;
RENEWS DEMANDS FOR CONSERVATION OF RESOURCES
CONTROL OF CORPORATIONS

he t
favor law comiHla are o good
As regards
In the p interest public representatives should see that raIr @ds do their duty,
e
Dnilto o b o a US is
Wa must be
premium OLd b
eprfeh o est
cOnrO in te o
Separate kerr
is
it
e
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
TATIN-AMFPICAN REPUBLICS.

The commercial and material progress
Of the twenty Latin-AmeriCsn republics
is worthy Of the careful attention Of
the Congress. No other section Of the
world has shown a greater p-cportionate
deveIopuent OF its foreign trade during
the last ten years and none other has
more special claims on the interest Of
the United States il offers today prob
ably larger opportunities for the leSiu-
uuate EXPANSION of our commerce than
anv other group OF countries
These countries will want our products
in greatly increaS Sed quantities, and We
shall corresDondingly need theirs The
International Bureau of American Re
pubIics is doing a useful work in max
ing these nations and their resources
better known 10 MS, and in aCqUain hitting
them not only with us as people and
with our purposes toward them, but
with what we have TO exchange for their
goods II Is an international iuSJitU-
tion supported by all the governments
Of the two Americas
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
JUSTICE TOO SLOW.

II is discreditsbIe that there should
he such difficulty in convicting mur-
derers or bringing 70 justice men
guilty Of corruption.
Corporations are nece ssary instru-
ments Of modern business.
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
INIUNCTIONS ISSUED.

During the last ten years, and within
my OWE knowledge. at least fifty in
functions have been obtained by labor
unions in New York city alone, most Of
them being to protect the union label Ga
property rightD. but some being OBJ
tanned for other reasons against en-
ployers-
Inc power OF Injunction is a grea.
equitable remedy. which should on no
account be destroyed
But safeguards should be erected
against It's abuse. / believe that some
such provisions as those I advocated q
Year ago for checking the abuse Of the
issuance OF temporary injunCtiOns
should he adopted In substance. provi-
sion should he made that no injunction
or temporary restraining order issue
otherwise than on notice. except where
lrreparable injury would otherwise re
suit: and IN such case a hearing on the
merits of the order should be had with
i'm short fixed period. and. if not tnen
continued after hearing. il should forth
with lapse Decisions should be rem
dered Immediately. and the chance or
delay minimiZed in every way. More
over. l believe that the procedure
should be sharply defined, and the judge
required minutely 10 state the particu-
lars both Of his action and of his rea-
sons therefor, 50 that the Congress can
II il desires examine and investigate the
same.
The chief lawmakers in our country
may be. and often are, the judges. be-
cause they are the final seat OF author
lty. Every time they interpret contract,
property, vested rights. due process OF
law, liberty. they necessarily enact into
law paris of a system OF social pulloSo-
phT, and as such Interpretation IS fund
amental, they give direction TO all law
king
The Washington times., 1908-12-08

fortunate state of affairs as regards the
national educational office be remedied
hy adequa &c appropriations This rec
ommendation Is urged by the represen-
yves or our common schools and great
state universities and the leading edu-
Gators, who all unite in requesting ia
Noraole consideration and action by the
congress upon This subject.
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
STRIKING LESSON.

The lesson Of defortstation in China
is a lesson which mankind should have
learned many times already from what
has occurred in other places. Denuda-
tion leaves naked soil; then the gully
ing cuts down 10 the bare rock: and
meanwhile the rock-V-sste buries the
bottomlands When the soil is gone.
men mt It 20, and the process does not
take Ions.
In northern China this disastrous
process has gone on so long and has
proceeded so Tar that no complete rem
edy could he applied. There are certain
mountains in China from which tho
soil is gone so utterly that only the slow
action OF the ages could again restore
il. although of course much could be
done 10 prevent the still further east
ward extension of the MCncolian Desert
il the Chinese government would act
at once The accompanying cuts from
photographs show the inConcefva BILE
desolation of the barren mountains in
which certain of these rivers rise
mountains. he Il remembered which
formerly supported dense forests OF
larches and mrs. now unable 10 produce
any wood, and because of their condi-
tion a source Of danger to the whole
country
What has thus happened in northern
China. what has happened in Central
Asia. in Palestine. in North Africa in
parts Of the Mediterranean countries
Of Europe, will surely happen in cur
The Washington times., 1908-12-08

ing OF the evidence which enabled us
20 drive great lotteries ont OF business
and secure q quarter Of million dol
lars in fines from their promoters.
These practices have enabled US 10 dis
cover some OF the most outraEe0u
frauds In connection with the theft OF
Gov rnmeut land and Government tim
Der y great corporations and by iudi-
NidualS. These practices have enabled
Us 10 get some OF the evidence indIs-
pensable in order to secure the couvIc-
uon OF the WeaiLhieSt and most for
midable criminals with whom the Gov
er1ment has 10 deal. both those Oper-
aung in violation Of the antitrust law
AM others
The amendment in question was Of
benefit TO 10 one excepting to these
criminals. and il seriously hampers the
Government in the detectiOn OF crime
and the securing Of justice. Moreover
II nOt only affects departments outside
Of the Treasury, but it tends to ham
per the Secretary Of the Treasury him
self in the effort TO utilize the en-
ployeS Of his department 50 as 10 best
meet the requirements Of the public
service It fOrbidS him from prevent
ing frauds upon the customs service.
from Investigating Irregularities in
branch mintS and ASSAY Offices and
mas seriously CTipplpd him
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
NATIONAL PARKS.

] urge that our national parks ad-
Jace"t to national forests he placed COM
pletely under the control OF the forest
service OF The Agriculture Department.
instead OF leaving them as they now
The Washington times., 1908-12-08

stand above any other servants OF the
community. and the greatest judges
have reached the high level hold by
those few greatest patriots whom the
whole country delights 10 honor.
But we must face the fact that there
are wise aid uuWise judges, just as
there are wise and unwise executives
and 1npieTs.fnr.
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
HAWAII.

call particular attention 20 the Ter
ritory Of Hawaii. The importance Of
those islands is apparent, and the need
OF improving their condition and de-
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
Renews Recommendation for Eight BarIeships of the
Type Now Building, and Praises Condi-
ton of Fleet

In Convicting murderers. OF ina bringing
to justice men who as public servants
have been guilty OF corruption, or who
have prnhted by the corruption Of
public servants The result is
equally unfortunate. whether due
to hairSplittiug technicalities in the
Interpretation OF law by judges.
to sentimentality and class con-
sciorsness on the part Of juries, or TO
hysteria and sensationalism in the daily
press. For much of this failure of JUS
tice no responsibility whatever lies on
rich men as such.
Corporations are necessary instru-
ments OF modern business.
They have been permitted to become
a menace largely because the govern
mental representatives of the people
have worked slowly in providing for
adequate control over them.
a very striking illustration Of the
consequences Of carelessness in the
preparation OF statute was the en-
pIoyerS liability law OF 1906 In the
cases arising under that law, four out
OF SIX courts of first instance held Il
unconstitutional; six out Of nine ius-
uces OF the Supreme Court held that its
subject matter was within the province
OF congressional action: and four Of
the nine Justices held il valid. 1t was
however, adJudSed unconstitutional by
bare majority of the Court-hve 10
louf II was surely a very sIoveDIv
piece or work 10 frame the legislation
IN such shape as to leave the question
open at all
Real damage has been done bv rl4
manifold and conflicting interDretarinr}s
OF me interstate commerce law Control
over the great corporations doing inter-
state business can be effective OnI,, n
II IS vested with fun power in am ad-
mlnlstrative department a branch Of
Lne tederal executive. CARRYING out a
Federal law; Il can never be effective
y a divided responsibility is left in botI
Ihe states and the Nation. il can never
be effective If left in the hands 81 the
courts 10 be decided by lawsuits
MUST RESPECT LAW.
The courts hold a place of peculiar and
deserved sanctity under our form OF
government. Respect for the law IS
essential 10 the permanence Of our in
stituuons; and respect for the law =
largely conditioned upon respect for the
courts. It is an onense against the
Republic 20 say anything which can
weaken this respect. save for tIs
gravest reason and in the most care
fully guarded manner. Our Judges
should be held in peculiar honor: and
the duty of respectful and truthful
comment and criticism. which should be
binding when we speak Of anybody.
should be especially binding when We
speak OF them. on an average they
The Washington times., 1908-12-08

Furnishing them for contempt Of court
In instances where. as q matter Of fact
lhey have no knowledge of any proceed
inES- Outside Of organized labor there
Is widespread feeling that this sys-
tenn often works great injustice to
WaSe-Workers when their efforts to bet
ter their working condition result in
industrial disputes.
\ temporary injunction procured eX
parte may. as a matter Of fact, have
all the effect Of a permanent injunction
In causing disaster TO the Wage-wOrk-
erS' side in such a dispute. Organized
labor is chatting under the unjust re-
StTaiat which comes from repeated re-
SuIt TO this plan of procedure Its dis
content has been UnwiSely expressed,
and often improperly expressed, but
there Is a sound basis for il. and the
orderly and law-abiding people Of a
community would be i'm a far stronger
position for upholding the courts if the
undoubtedly existing abuses could be
provided against
Such proposals as those mentioned
above as advocated by the extreme la
Dor leaders contain the vital error OF
being class legislation OF the most Of
fensive kind, and even If enacted into
law believe that the law would rightly
be held unconstitutional Moreover
the labor people are themselves now be-
ginning to invoke the use of the power
Of Injunction
The Washington times., 1908-12-08
PREVENTS PROMOTION

II prevents the promotion Of employ
- in the Secret Service. and this fur
ther discoursges good effort. In its
present form, the restriction operates
only to the advantage of the ~r...I-
NAL OF the wronSdOer. The 1ief
argument IN favor Of the provision was
thar the Congressman did not them
selves wish to be investigated bv Secret
Service men
Very little OF such investigation has
been done in the past. but 1t is true
that the work of the Secret Service
agents was partly responsible for the
Indictment and conviction Of Sena-
tor and Congressman for land
frauds IN Oregon. 7 do not believe
that IL is in the public interest TO
protect criminals in any branch OF the
public service, and exactly as we have
again and again during the past seven
years prosecuted and convicted such
criminals who were in the executive
branch OF the Government so in nv
belief we should be given ample
means to prosecute them il found in
the legislative branch.
But If this is not considered deSiT-
able 2 special exception could be
made in the law prohibiting the use
of the Secret Service force in in
vestigatiug members Of the Congress.
1t would be far better to do this than
to do wHdt actually was done. and
strive tC prevent or a Z least TO ham
per effective action against CriInina s
by the executive branch Of the Gov
eruUCOf