The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1908-09-20
SEPTEMBER IN THE MARKETS.
Perch and scaiiops Both Somewhat Neg.
Iected but Toothsome.

Iected but Toothsome.
September brings back the perch ant
the scallop to the market. No sea fooc
Is daintier In flavor than the perch. al
though it never seems to gain the popu
larity Of the bass and other fish tina
cost nearly double the price.
The scallop. like the oyster, is 50 Otter
spoiled in the cooking that IL is hardly
understood In its real excellence. Seal
lops quickly lose their favor and fresh
ness IL kept too long in a refrigerator
and always high in price they are no
much used by home cooks.
Then there Is q chance Of buying seal
lops that have been put through q bleach
ing process, which ruins their favor
although it makes them white and plump
looking. 1t Is a mistake to use egg battert
on scallops. They should be dredge5
with -four or Indian meal and then dropped
in very hot fat when fried.
But the better way is to broil them
brushing them first with melted buttel
and serving them with lemon and water
cress. Skewere1 alternately with bits
Of bacon after. having first been par.
ofVt ohd tHOh pEOif0u tllSy NJ dtoN
delicious. Some serve them with"a tar
tare sauce, which is rather q rich com
bination. A maitre d'h6tel sauce made OF
lemon juice, butter and chopped parsley
Is much better.
They make delicate little patties SIM
mered in milk. thickened with -four and
butter and poured into shells Of crust.
Scallops make a good invalid broth. and
Murrey was the inventor Of a curry OF
scallops which is unsurpassed.
For this a quart Of scallops are required.
They are washed and simmered for an
hour. Blanoh two ounces Of sweet al
monds, remove the busks and fry a deli
nate brown; drain from the hot butter
and pound to a paste with a Glove Of gar
lio and the grated rind Of a lemon. Mix
two teaspoonfuls Of curry powder, q little
and an ounce Of butter. Put in
the frying pan and add gradually half a
pint OF the scallop broth and the almond
paste. Then add hot milk and simmer
a while before adding the scallops and
serving with chutney.
Perch are nearly always served fried.
and when not over done they are good In
this way, Toured first and put in very
hot fat. They should be served on a bed
Of green parsley. But they are also
good when boiled. letting the roe remain
Parsley and salt and pepper are first
put into the water in which they are to be
boiled and when the fish is put in a lump
Of butter Is also added. They are wrapped
in a napkin while boiling to preserve them
intact and ten or twelve minutes in the
kettle is sufficient.
Fresh mushrooms are to be had now
and a breakfast OF them baked is season.
able While thew are nOnular brOilad
the baking keeps them more tender, as
they can be cooked in a covered dish or
a casserole with butter. which they alb
sorb in. this way.
Small birds in plenty are coming from
Long Island and Jersey. while nearly
every variety Of duck, partridge. grouse
and that now much esteemed bird the
prairie hen promises to be very plentiful.
While prices remain high for all these
good things, the markets present an ap-
pearance Of plenitude hat must gladden.
the town returning New Yorker.