The morning journal-courier., 1908-01-01
THE FASHIONS
What the Southern Trousseaux Now in Preparation
 Indicate.
CHANGES IN SPRING STYLES
Some of the Interesting and Attrac- tive Novelties in the
 Works.

Just as the New York Horse Show sets the seal of approval, or disap- proval, on the fall and winter fashion for American women, so the trous- seau prepared for the Southgoer is largely indicative of the modes for the coming spring and summer sea- son. In the costumes now under pro- cess of construction, several changes are noticed that are bound to influence more or less directly the fashion world later on
 For one thing, we are not to be confined to a few thin wool and silk materials for street costumes, as. we have been for some time; for, tucked away under counters where they only see the light of day upon special re- quest, and these only in exclusive shops, are many beautiful new weaves of fine wool, silk and wool, and a number of new silks. Most of them are developed from the rough rajahs and tussahs, some of which have fine threads of smooth silk running through them. In other weaves the smooth silk thread is utilized for the design, either in self or a contrasting color and in the form of cheeks plaids, or very small figures. The silk and wool fabrics are particularly in teresting, and quite on a different scale from the ordinary material oi this sort Some of them closely re- semble tussah, and these are booked as favortes among the spring novelties Among the new silks are several of ex- ceptionally rough weave, and others of very high lustre, besides the natur' al tussah interwoven with all manner of attractive figures in colors and sell tones.
 In the way of colors the blue range is foremost, with navy the leading representative.
 The lotus series, running from cie to peacock. is new, and also the nous quetaire, whose tones are inclined to- ward grayish tint.
 That green is expected to make { favorable impression is evidenced b, the fact that no less than seven ou of ten trousseaux which certain Paris house has just imported, con tained from one to five green stree frocks, with green conspicuous in tn, silk and mousseline confections. Tn, greens are subdued, the darker shade on the bronze scale and the lighte resembling a nile. with warm yellow or seddih cast
 The pure amethyst is brought ou delightfully."- In organdies and linens while in the street fabrics, beslde green, the NsfR6ke shades, smok - browns, smoke blues, and the grays winch are clearer and more on tn silver tone than the shades common ly known as smoke. White is alway fin" but we are to- have very dee yellow white, with coral tinge, cal ed shell white. which, of cours, strictly speaking. is not white at al but is altogether charming under an appellation.
 A very beautiful costume is bein made now of this "shell'' shade In satin cloth. The skirt shows a nc model. There is a long plain panel 1 front, very narrow, and habit bacl The upper portion of the remainin breadths is gored and cut in dec scallops which are applied to a ci cular flounce. This skirt and modific; tions of 1t will supersede the platte skirt with its bias folds that has bee with us for so long. The coat whie Is to top the skirt is also of the sat cloth. It is short in front, with a yes and has the long skirt at sides ar back, and the vest and cuffs are ella orately trimmed with narrow brai while the whole costume shows outlining or finish of halfinch si braid of firm, close weave.
 Another costume in this same ou fit which suggests one of the chang we may expect in the spring has
 prouonced over-skirt. There is a sha skirt of taffeta with twelve-inch ci cular fiounce attached, and over Il falls five-gored skirt with the sea