The daily sentinel., 1908-11-05
BY Catherine Mann-Payzant.


New York, Nov. 5.-All the new
shades are of the softest tones, and
the idea is not contrast, but costumes
and hats of one tone in its different
tints. A solid color is almost as much
avoided as the contrast.
Some of the new colors are known
as orchid. wistharia. amethyst. Ger
ami Inns, pink. mulberry, salmon. mole
grey. smoke, Nazimova, peacock and
canard blues. Copenhagen, gobelin,
pacinte. lanagea green, grey blue and
ashes of rose. One of the very newest
tints is "Pilsener," a new color which
is seen in some of the very latest
importations. IL is a pale. yet warm
looking yellow, hardly deeper than
cream.
These colors are found to best ad-
vantage among those fabrics intended
for the Directoire modes, which in
cludes in silks, satin royal, satin
Franchise, satin messaline, satin peau
de cygne. and the satin meteor crepe.
in wool fabrics there are the chiffon
broadcloths, costume suitings, di-
agonal serges, serges with rich cash
mere borders, shadons-patterns pru-
nellas, cheviots, serges and face
cloths.
Special favor Is being accorded to
the lustrous prunellas which are now
manufactured as spot proof, and
found in all the leading shades.
The Directoire cut is by all means
the most fashionable for the street
costume. and very smart mode II is
with n smart waist coat of Persian
colorings or chintz. with cording of
black and white velvet, full-length
sleeves, seams outlined with satin.
finished with satin bullons and
turned -hnrls brai ided cuffs
There is a radical change in col
lars, most of them are close-fitting,
others in the Robespierre effect;
pockets are lower and larger, and
number on the Colonial shape
shoulders are cut narrower. and
the coats t.u ~ perfectly straight
lines, giving the / o'sss figure. The
sleeves are close-fittins, ,t9 skirts
gored. some with smart panels. othars
are mounted on high-fitted girdles.
| The skirts fall in graceful clinging
lines.
The most fashionable trimming for
this season for tailored suits is of
Ottoman silk on collar. cuffs and re-
veres; also cordinG which forms orna-
ments is much used. Other models
are elaboratcly trimmed with satin.
\ model. by Callot. exhibited last
week. is worthy of description. 1t
was an afternoon gown of broadcloth
| in a new, soft shade of blue. The
skirt was a modified sheath mode.
with wedge opening in the very
center front which reached to the
shoe tops. The bottom of the skirt
was bound with blue Ottoman silk
and hit of the silk was placed be-
meath the opening and covered with a
tiny frill Of black lace. The skirt.
while narrow was drapped in n grace
full manner, being caught in to the
back seam in sweeping folds. From
the waist to the hem in the back is a
perfectly straight panel. detached
from rest of skirt, which forms the
train. On the bodice there was a
yoke of ecru crochet lace bordered
with band of floss stitching in tan
and red on the cloth set at intervals
with blue buttons. The color was of
black net and the sleeves of double
blue net set very far back in square
larmholas.
Satin is used very great deal. but
ii il the pliable liberty satin in most
cases, not the thick. stiff kind that
once held sway.
I.aces are used but they must har
monize with the color scheme. They
may be black, as the old Director,
costumes were frequently in all blacl
tom Is retained in the revival. o.
they may be dyed to match the gowns
Seldom is cream or contrasting
color used. The chiffons and all th'
accessories are black or dyed L
IuaJcn the costume.
One of the most attractive ney
stocks which combines a sort of yoke
frames the face like flour petals. |
is made of fine wash bobbinet an,
Valenciennes. There are two full
plated frills. they are plated to
gether and edgeu with Valenciennes
This lies close about the face and
deep double frill like II falls owe
tie yoke and shoulders and ribbol
to hide the joining passes around ant
is tied behind. This style is not
good one for short neck.
For a jabot of washable net. cut il
a strip. twenty-five inches long an
wide enough to cover the chest afte