Martinsburg herald. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1881-1920, 1908-08-29
OUR WEEKLY
NEW YORK LETTER.
Early Fall Fashions Still Under Di.
rectcire Infiucnce-The Most De-
cided Changes Shown by the
SleeVes-Smart Combinations of
Materials - Ribbon Embroidery
New and Effective.


ance. The sheath skirt or not the
sheath skirt. That question still
continues o burn, but the early fall
Fashions snow merely a continuation
and of course something of an elab-
GRAFTON of the summer ideas.
Skirts will undoubtedly be closely
FITTED about the hips and will proba-
bly, follow the goreo and semi-cir-
cQlar models. The Directoire infiu-
ence Is still paramount-narrow
shoulders, long plain sleeves, frills at
throat and wrist. large square pock-
cts and cuffs, large revers, cut-away
coats and sash girdles.
Whether the straight figure which
has been attained by so many curl
Gus expedients on the part of the
corsetierre-hips not only being
laced in but waistlines padded out
where there seems to be something
too dangerously near a curve-will
endure, remains to be seen; but on
the light wool tailored suits for ear
ly fall days that are already begin
ming to appear in the shops there is
no variation from the straight lines
of the summer.
The purchasing and planning Of
thin gowns have, however, by no
Eeans ceased. since they make dam
ty all-the-year-Iound house-gowns
and their usefulness does not wane
with the coming of chilly days.
Shortwristed, %one-button gloves
are in demand once mora SURE in
dication hat the long, close-fitting
sleeve is an accepted fact. The
new sleeves define the arm; even
when they are draped, the folds lie
fiat and indicate the contours plainly.
But the tendency is toward the long,
close sleeve, it's severity sometimes
modified by trimming along the
back. Many of these close sleeves
Arn bY1fAnDI %hA{~ A-l-& --AL,
others have overlapping scallops
with a button set in each scallop;
braided sleeves have the back seams
finished with tassels; the wrinkled
sleeve of transparent material is Of
ten finished by a little frill along the
outer seam; the silk or satin sleeve
has the top part extending a couple
of inches over the back seam, with
the raw edges travelled in a fringe.
A very new, very chic touch is to
make the wrinkled, transparent
sleeve of two tones of chiffon, one
over the other, giving a changeable
effect, the small round yoke of the
gown being down in the same way.
Some very exclusive white lingerie
gowns have sleeves of lace lined with
colored chiffon or silk muslin, with
yoke and stock to match.
At the French watering-places
linen and khaki are often seer in
combination-the skirt of the white
linen and the O a of the khaki; and
this will be a comfortable fashion for
September, khaki having a distinct
amount OF warmth. Among the best
of the cloth and silk combinations
are the costumes including pongee
and cloth of the same shade. The
skirt is usually a pleated model in
the pongee. and the cloth coat Is
heavily covered with soutache braid
ing. One reason for the perennial
vogue OF pongee is It's well-nigh unt-
versal becomingness.
A new kind of embroidery that has
Just made its appearance is of rib
bon. The ribbon runs along straight
for a few inches, then turns on itself
and continues, but must not be stitch
ed down. Some of the late French
gowns show this ribbon embroidery
made of rather narrow ribbon aid
crushed up into four-leaf-clover out
line or flower shape. These en-
b~roideries never appear as a separate
applique design but as a running Dor
der on skirt, yoke, stock or sleeve.
White wolfe trimmed in this way