Los Angeles herald., 1908-10-11

Since the fashion for annual autumn
touring came Into vogue ;laiors have beer
puzzling their brains In the effort to de
sign a coat for women which would lool
smart and trim and yet be sufficiently
roomy to promise comfort, and could b,
developed In some material which woult
not readily show the wear ant
tear of travel. Apparently they have
finally come TO the conclusion thai
the checked and striped. coarse
serges and heavy English r1ohairs
and siciliennes are the best of all fabric.
for the purpose, and It Is evident thai
their customers agree with them, judging
from the number of orders custom-makers
are turning out, and ready-made garments
the shops are selling. They are made IN q
variety Of models which do not differ
greatly, save in minor details, as there
seems to be general prediction for the
plain double-breasted garment hanging
straight from throat to hem, finished with
deep cuffs as we'll as deep collar, which
may be turned up or down, as the state
OF weather dictates.
The Utility Cont.
Undoubtedly the number of women who
must make one long coat answer for all
round daytime service is greatly In the
majority, and to such Is addressed the
statement that In selecting such gar
ment 1t will be better to secure @ ma
terial not too heavy for ordinary autumn
and spring use, relying upon extra wraps
for additional warmth In winter. Any sof
the mediumweight worsteds. supposing
always that they are close and firm of
weave, are advised, but special attention
must be devoted to their coloring which
should show preponderance of white or
gray rather than black, dark brown. blue
or green, as the dust seems to settle on
weaves in those colors as though with
firm determination to cling In the pro-
verbally brotherly manner, whereas
white, gray and tan simply become a bit
more dull, but never look actually rusty.
sinsIe-breasted Wraps.
While the double-breasted coat model
undoubtedly leads In the line of severely
tailored utility wraps, not every woman
finds them to her liking either because
they seem to add too much to her ap-
parent size or Because they are too warm
in moderate weather However this may
be, certain 1t is that there are to be found
any number of long wraps which COM
bine the advantages Of the double
breasted box coat with the semlftting
redingote, which defines the figure to
some extent and at the same time Is so
loose that 1t may be drawn on easily.
This model necessarily demands sharp
slope in the side forms, which sometimes
start at the waist line, instead of be-
meath the arms That there may be no ex-
ira fulness across the bust, darts are SET
into the tops of the front forms. which
close with large buttons extending from
the throat to just below the hips.
Various sleeve Types.
Having made the statement that all
coat sleeves are long, one might go on
indefinitely In regard to their differences;
for this season there are seen sleeves OF
almost as many types as, coats to fit them
into. The safest model for the ail-rounc
coat, because 1t never actually goes out
of fashion, Is the conventional type made
precisely like that worn by men and now
put into the arms-eyes in the same
manner, without the slightest fulness at
the top gand fitting smoothly over the
shoulder. This is the sleeve of the box
coat which is developed In the heavier
and more cumbersome sort of materials
such as chinchilla and Irish frieze. Many
built on the same model in re-
gard to general details have sleeves Of
widely di1terent character. Some Of them