The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-12-08
PARIS FASHIONS.
BY MADAME PARoUIN.

duce also upon the 0lfnfeSL OF DInly
teagowns. A closely-fitting coat of one
of the ultra fashionable furs of the
coming winter season, breitschwantz,
or baby lamb. cut in the modish man.
ner with fronts that slope sharply off
TO the sides. is bound with black SOU
atache and has outside pockets likewise
adorned.
There has never been greater diver
sity or fascination than is this season
evinced by the modistes in the inven-
ton of sleeves of all patterns, and also
of all lengt rs. 1t is absurd to imagine
that the elbow sleeve viii be totally
banished from sartorial schemes;
though newer and more acceptable for
several toilettes are the long ones,
either with or without the pointed ter
mination that reaches the knuckles.
In some instances a little ruffle is
added TO the simple piping at the wrist
to match the quilting of net or stiff
fened lace that edges the high collar
band that is one of the signal triumphs
OF the present autumn.
There are, indeed, so many varieties
of sleeves that it is difficult to keep
count of them. One is the second en-
pire model that outlines the arm, while
the material is slightly swathed, a
very happy departure from the severe
ly simple, closely fitting sleeve that the
bellies of the sixties of last century APP
parently found sufficiently satisfying
to their vanity. 1t is de rigueur to set
the second empire sleeve very low be-
meath the shoulder seams, thus giving
the figure long and dropping appear
ance, but so trying is this mode eX-
cept to women whose vogue is already
recognized as ultra smart, that l doubt
its general acceptation.
Many of our most eager and anX-
ious thoughts are now concentrated
upon that very delightful subject, the
choice of furs. Expediency teaches us
TO regard the small pieces that are
necessary adjuncts of the early au-
tumn wardrobe first. Among them the
new pelerines are Of paramount i'm
<portance and interest. ] deem them an
economical purchase also, seeing that
throughout the whole of the winter
there are few days upon which a vete-
ment OF this description cannot be
worn. The new pelerines are of ample
comfort I'm the way of warmth, ex-
tending, as they do, almost to the
waist line at the back and in front
nearly to the hem of the skirt. A ia
Vorite patterns is the pelerine that
broadens into cape-like epaulettes up
on the shoulders, plenufully supplied
with tails, and so cleverly cut that one
form of wearing is not Indispensable.
On the contrary, the wrap may be
assumed in a variety of ways, s1lnc-
times with the tails and folds that
form the back part posed upon the lott
shoulder, with the two ends of the
pelerine hanging, one over the back of
the right shoulder and the other in
front. I have seen a clever woman ar
range her pelerine in so many different
forms that each time it was impossi-
BILE TO believe that it was the same
wrap with which she was maneuVer-
ing.
The very general acceptance of the
short sleeve last winter brought into
full vogue the fashion for wearing
muffs, and this winter, though pale
tots, coats and other outdoor gar
ments, Including those made Of fur,
will have sleeves that reach the
wrists. that very pretty adjunct of
the toilette. the muff, viii not be laid.
aside. There are, on the contrary,
many new modes in which it is al
ready being produced instead of the
all-conquering, granny pattern of last
winter. One model is extremely long,
and rather narrow and round, but
when the hands are inside the fur is
allowed to wrinkle, so that very
pretty drapery effect is secured; in
another a muff is formed of boa or
stole of fur that looks as if careiessly
wrapped round the hands instead OF
being as. of course, it is, a model care
fully prepared and costly lined, II
cause the whole scheme to hold well
together.
That sensational history, the one of
the hat, continues to afford Ia Delle
Parisienne chapter after chapter of
keen interest. Behold it now rising in
height, by reason of the elevated
crown, in some instances the Valois,
with a rounded top, in others a far
away cousin of a mans silk hat. One
made of leather brown panne is draped
with ropes of gold tissue and satin,
while at one side there are brown and
soft golden tinted ostrich feathers
gathered beneath a rope buckle. The
Valois hat looks stunning made of
stretched peacock blue velvet luXuri-
ously plumed with blue, with little
soft gray intermiXed. TOques are again
being brought into the foremost ranks
of millinery triumphs. The fashion,
able shape is round or broad, not eIon-
yated. and it is made of velvet and Of
fuffled taffetas. When the cold
weather comes fur will be employed.
Hats are very heavy on the head
They could hardly be otherwise, with
the immense amount of weight put
upon them fer adornment. The wav-
ing. straight aigrette is replaced by
one Wnicn Is CuIleu anu q lltlle sun
The gourah in naturel shape is lovely
and quite fashionable, but brings
hat to $50 without other garniture. No
other garniture, however, is used when
the aigrette or gourahs are employed.
Sometimes a large chou Of liberty satin
is used, but the gourah Is Tar lighter
and more delicate without anything
else. There is no great variety TO the
effect of the big hats. Plumes and
feathers are varied in finish, but they
all appear to be posed at the same
angle and to make each hat look like
the other. The satin-coyered shape Is
quite elegant; but satin is hard next
the face, and women who know what
is best for them order a covering OF
liberty velvet of faille. The velvet
facing OF the hats lends a very soft.
becoming finish. The purple hats faced
in white are beautiful. as are also the
black ones faced in white. Backs of
hats are not trimmed.
Chinchilla is TO be very fashionable
this winter-not made alone, but used
with brocade or embroidered satin or
velvet or suede. The fur is beauti-
fully fine but is not becoming TO any
one but the freshest blonde or the
rosiest brunette. When the gray is
toned with stronger shades il is en-
HANGED and is so beautiful that al
most any woman may adopt it and De
sure that she will appear to advantage. |
The big cuff of chinchilla is quite fash