The San Francisco call., 1907-02-24

r'~~y a. we;<rs 20 al - n sedsss e
tais s.v,-. sSc-srssIi7 20 thu uDpsr part.
itdoe= n; euI ths fesE ana All Et ases
is to kAeD tie gown IN plaza
IT have seen wonen, however. who
resort 20 this scheme to keep heavy
pailistSed Sodices where they belong.
and than 90 wonder at thsir forts-
tuds. Jet and pailiettss are always a
source Of trouble to US drsssmaksrs
when they are made up into evening
gowns. especially II the gowns ara to
have a very decollete outline and ban
deau across the arm. Even whaIsbonss
are not sufficiently strong to keep shs
outline perfect in most cases. ana Hsn
dislike increasing the weight OF the
bodice even by so much az the few
added ounces or whalebons. A very
smart client OF mine told mo that the
only way she could keep her paiIlstts
bodice in order was to faSten q narrow
strip of adhesive plaster around ths
shoulders and across her bust. This
she had provided with eysIets, ana
after it was on she hooked this top
of the bodice in the eyelets. That seems
like rather heroic scheme. but ahs
said it worked beautifully
Does 1t hurt TO pull the plaster orr
1t does not get such a f1rm hold that
there is any danger OF taking the skin
with it, The small pieces are no more
than so much court plaster, In fact they
sometimes come of more readily when
treated properly. The advantage OF the
adhesive kind is that heat does not
rob it of its virtue. One may dance and
get quite warm without any danger
OF spelling the adhesive properties or
the plaster While it is on it Is per
tectly phatIe and cannot possibly slip.
II It were not pliabls it would be a
most unco mfortable arrangement. but
as il is there is really nothing against
1t. only the less used is naturally the
Setter. There is a special pure white
paste we make-it is somethinsA bike
the kind used in the stinening OF sheer
frociSs and fabrics-which answers very
well for certain occasions in this stick
ing fad. For instance. il little square
OF adhesive plaster is laid on the shoul-
ders dab OF the paste may be put
on the inside OF the bodice top and
then pressed to tine unglued or upper
side OF the plaster so that il will hold
frin OF lace or the corsage top in
place.
only slender. svelte figures should
attempt the new decol1ete. It is spe-
cialIy adapted to their charms and can
be cut very low without being immod-
EST Above all. it should not be tight
or binding in the slightest across the
top. for as soon as it appears to draw
or to confne the shoulders and bust It's
gracefulness is destroyed. II must
look as though 1t was being held IN
place by some magical art-that Is halr
the beauty Of this exquisite style
Mile. Cavalieri is looked upon as the
high priestess OF this decollets cult. All
% her gowns are cut extremely low;
some Of them have no sleeves at all and
no apparent support for the upper part.
Her costumes are built upon the same
plan whenever It Is feasible. and one Of
them has filled the women OF two con-
tinents with wonder. This f. gown
made In the fashion OF a century or
more ago.
The neck is cut low. and from the
point OF the arms fall sleeves OF no
small proportions. their upper part
forming curve that crosses the D.
Just a little above the elbow. There
seems to be nothing holding them in
place and the entire upper part OF the
figure. as well as the daintily rounded
shoulder. Is unhampered by 50 much
as a jeweled band. 1t is style very
becoming to her slim figure. woman
OF larger proportions would look alto
gether too decolIete. but the opera
singer suggests a living statue draped
to half reveal. half oenesal. her fairess
charms.