The independent., 1907-04-25
FASHION

is perhaps, the most universally In
teresting of all those with which Dame
Mode is regaling us this spring. Silk
costumes are in vogue for all Occas-
sions, even some simple tailored ones
for morning wear, all Of which is quite
in accord with the note of luxurious
ness that prevails throughout the
realm of dress. 1t is all so different
from what it was few years back,
say twenty when the best black silk,
was phrase with which to conJure,
and made its appearance only on
state occasions, principally weddings
and funerals.
It is a veritable treat to go into the
exclusive shops and hear the history
of the new Weaves, of which there is
sufficient number to dazzle the eyes
of even the connisseur, and as for
the names, well, here one may be ex-
cused for paraphrasing, for certainly
if the word of the man behind the
goods is of any worth silk by any
other name is just as good, will wear
just as long, and is equally stylish.
Also, piece of silk, in this season or
1907, plays many parts. For example.
silk, glossy, roughly woven and Of
firm texture, is known at the import
er's as Tuscan foulard, at one shop
it goes by the name of "amaranth."
while still another firm answers 10
the call of it, when it comes, as voile
surah Hence, it is we'll to seek further
when one does not at Oncefnd the
silk desired.
All Of the silks show an unusually
wide range of beautiful cOlors, both
light and dark shades. This range in
cludes almost every tint known mere
tofore, reinforced by scores of new
In he
French models these odd shades.
which are perhaps in themselves try
ing, are cleverly worked up into COM
binations which not only render them
vastly becoming, but +. distinguished
looking.
There has not been a season in many
a year when we could SO aptly say
"the old things have passed away"
We may still make use of old materials,
old colors, old ideas, but they must
enter into calculations rather as ac-
cessories to be combined with new sug-
gestions than as whole. The spirit of
change is abroad in the land, and it
makes itself felt nowhere moro potent
ly than in dress. We may wear last
seasons clothes, but not as they were,
and to the economically inclined this
must be a season of pure delight, for
SO adaptably to refurbshing as now,
and here again silks are their saliva
ton. 1t is the exception when a gown
of silk itself is not trimmed with a silk
of another weave, if not of different
color. Taffeta is used rather for orna-
mental purposes than as entire CO.'S
tunes, except in black which is as
popular as ever A smart suit of black
taffeta seen at one of the recent exhi-
Ditions is well worthy of mention and
sounds a new note in the construction
of this somewhat hackneyed toilet The
skirt was laid in half-inch knife plaits
around the hips and stitched to depth
of ten inches, and pressed the rest of
their length. Around the bottom were
two four-inch folds of satin sparsely
scattered with white pin dots and
headed with just the narrowest pos
sible piping of green silk. The bodice
was of point Vense lace, with shoulder
caps and strappingS of black silk bor-
dered, with the silk piped satin bands
of the skirt, and over this was a little
coat, a short pony effect, with French
back, the seams outlined with the full
width bands, and the front trimmed
also with the bands extending from
the shoulder and having two wide re-
vers of satin notched. piped with green,
and trimmed with tiny metal buttons
OF green and gold.
The Partisan dressmakers and GER
tain nodistes on this side are using
the soft satin and silk Innings in pref
erence TO taffeta. These are attractive
shimmering through the thin, loosely
woven materials which we arc using,
but the average American woman
likes a lining with more body to 1t,
and. incidentally, she likes the slight,
almost imperceptibe rustic of the new
taffetus, although, like the sensible be-
ing she is. she has foregone the ag-
gresslve, cracking taffeta that she
adopted with so much zest q few
years ago.
The majority of silks are figured,
yet plain weaves are strictly speaking
Just as good. Satin duchesse, which
has been on the market for many
acons. IN heralded as novelty for
coat suits and those OF its conntruc-