The Ely miner. [volume] (Ely, Minn.) 1895-1986, 1907-12-20

Perhaps at no time in the past has
there been greater diversity in styles
| and in materials worn at various func-
tons. Skirts are trailing, of the short
walking length, or just escape the
floor; they are empire, princess, glove
or loosely fitting princess, with no
suggestion of the empire, or they show
the Louis coats with trailing skirts,
or elaborate coats and skirts, or the
severest of the tailored variety of the
latter combination.
Velvet is especially smart in gowns
| and in coats, whether tight or loose.
Hats as a rule are prettier than
| ever, but some extraordinary effects
are seen.
Although fur is now so much used
as trimming for evening gowns and
evening nantes, I am of the opin-
| ion that the latter garments are most
| effective and distinguished when made
| on very simple lines and left prac-
tically untrimmed. OF course, every
thing depends on the dress with which
the mantle is to be worn; If that be
| exceedingly elaborate the mantle or
wrap can afford to be simple, and vice
versa. Now that our evening cloaks
are always made to accompany some
special gown we find them in many
different materials and styles. Per-
haps the graceful burnous is about the
most satisfactory and becoming shape.
The burnous wrap looks best when
made of soft cashmere and lined with
liberty satin or of supple satin, and
lined with a heavy make of crepe de
chine. Beautiful embroideries are ar
ranged on the fronts and hoods of the
cloaks of this genre.
The reign of the three-quarter
length tailor-made coat has COM
menced brilliantly, and now this de-
lightful garment is almost unbi-
quitous. And all the best Of the new
tailor-made coats show rounded fronts.
In many cases the back is longer
than the front; the sleeves reach al
most to the elbow and are semi-Jap-
anese in outline.
The white shirt waist can well be
eschewed for the time being and a
shirt of crepe de chine to match the
cloth coat and skirt costume substi-
tuted instead A dark blue serge skirt
and coat would be most effectively
completed with dark blue crepe de
chine shirt, made with broad tucks
and spotted with white cotton. White
frills at the wrists and down the CEN
ter of the front, and outlining the col
lar-band, will, If made Of very mar
row and finely hemstitched lawn, give
the finishing touch justly recognized
as distinguishing between the blouse
of yesterday and that Of to-day.
Perhaps the height of magnificence
in dress is reached in the evening
gowns. Embroidery appears on every
frock, be it Greek or Louis XVI. There
is a great craze for what is known
as Egyptian mbroidery-copies of
old Egyptian conventional designs.
| The Greek keynote pattern is always
effective in rich fabrics.
/ should say most Of the evening
dresses have sleeves, and although it
has been observed that there is very
little bodice worn in Paris just now,
there is a good bit of drapery in the
sleeve. The bodice is cut very low
back and front, for the most part
square, and filled in with pieces of
| heavy embroidery, lace and tulle, and
| the sleeve, as 1 have said, is mass
of drapery, often covering the elbow
but leaving the arm bare at the top
| or yelled with a transparency. This
draped sleeve is a pretty fashion,
| though perhaps not strictly classical.
The two frocks illustrated in our
| large picture are simple but elegant in
design. The first has distinct Louis