davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21

enade at watering places or for wear with
exquisite carriage costumes. There are
some of them made Of satin. brocade and
chiffon OF Powered silk trimmed heavily
with lace. The all-lace parasol made with
a lining of white or colored chiffon and
covered with founces of Valenciennes. Cluny
or baby Irish. is favorite for these occa-
sions. There are also parasols made or
white chiffon and trimmed with gold galloon,
gold lace or fringe and cord OF gold The
chiffon paraSos are many of them trimmed
with garlandS and bouquets Of chiffon or
ribbon flowers of the ordinary artificial
flowers. They are also trimmed with bows
and garlands of Powered ribbon. Indeed.
this last may be said to be somewhat newer
than the chiffon and ribbon flower trim
mings, as that appeared in the last part OF
last summer.
There are also most attractive colored
lawn or batiste parasols for wear either
with morning or afternoon frocks. The
former are comparatively simple. being
trimmed usually Will eyelet embrodery
and scalloped edges. The afternoon para
soils In the colored lawns and nainsook are.
on the contrary. made of quantities OF tiny
ruffies edged with narrow lace and caught
up with ribbon bows. These parasols are
undoubtedly most attractive. but the fact
of the matter is that. although they pretend
to a somewhat more enduring quality, they
are as little able to withstand wear ana
tear as the chiffon parasols and not 50
equal to keeping their color under the rays
of the sun. They also quite as eXpen-
sve as any OF the fanciest parasols, save
those in real lace. In fact. IL a lingerie or
other very fanciful parasol is desired, II Is
safer for those of moderate purse TO have
1t in white. cream or black. and trust TO
the lining and ribbon trimming for the
color. unless. of course 1t is to be OF SILK,
which better withstands the sun.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21
sUNsE1ADEs OF RUFFIED TAFFETA AND COLORED PONGEE

A THOUGH the linen parasol Is still
~ exceedingly fashionable, the silk
parasol seems to be also decidedly
popular among the spring and early sum-
mer fashions The lingerie parasol, with
Its wealth Of lace and embroidery. will I'M
doubtedly hold its own: but the plain linen
parasol for less elaborate occasions which
was 80 overwhelmingly popular last season.
must this year share the honors with silk
sunshades.
One of the uuaintest Of the new designs
Is taneta parasol in solid colors which
is entirely covered with tiny ruffies fringed
out on one edge. The little ruffies encircle
the parasol from edge to ferrule These
sunshades-for they are almost too substan-
tial looking to be called parasols-are shown
In solid old-fashioned blues, greens and
browns. They are not really SO stylish in
the more delicate shades. although there Is
effective biscuit and also a most attrac-
tive lavender.
For morning the brown silk sunshades
are riyaling the green shades which have
been popular for so many seasons. They
are shown not only in the ruf1ed parasols,
but in those finished in tucks and hem
stitching.
slrable for general morning use next to the
green and brown. and of course they are
much more appropriate with delicate
costume. An attractive design is Of white
taffeta trimmed with black silk braid bor-
derfng the parasol in an open geometrfcal
design. The white silk parasols are also
trimmed with black velvet ribbons, and
with shirrings and ruffles of white silk
Yellowish tan taffeta parasols are also
braided in black and trimmed with black
velvet ribbon.
POngee parasols in gray, white, red and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21

TT O be in the mode this spring a WON
an must possess a gown or two
showing one OF the prevailing colors,
cafe au lait snuff. or brick red. The gown
moreover. must show either one or the other
OF these first two Colors a whole 1t
must not represent simply touch here or
a dash there OF this finger of fashion
Brick red on the other hand, is the color
employed this season for touching up and
for smart trimmings. a snuff color gown,
for example. should be snuff color from
the TOP Of the neck to the hem of the
skirt the one permissible trimming for its
Niriation being bands OF dull gold gilt
spaugles 1t is not, however dictated that
slgh a gown shall be all OF one material.
Je-chance Il Is chiffon trimmed with
bands Of duh finished cloth. il may, in
opposition, be OF lightweight cloth with
ir,rtductiOns OF chiffon. When the gilt gal
loon IS used II IS confined to the bottom of
{ e. skirt. where IL mostly follows the out
Iu- Of squares. diamonds or the wcll-knOwn
Greek pattern. 1t acts as high light on
tie snuff color monotone. Gilt spangles.
them TO carry out the thought. are sprnkled
over the chiffon that IS seen about the neck
and shoulders.
Cafe au laiJ color gowns are more for
evening and gay afternoon wear than those
Uf snuff color. The material for their max
lag. which has the most chachet OF smart
ness is termed in Paris leather silk" This
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21

Numbered or cleaned as often desired.
These frocks are made quite simply this
year, the plain tailor gowns being the
most popular and by this is meant three
quarter half-ftted jacket, with long sleeves,
and short plated skirt cut to clear the
ground easily all around. In light green,
blue and mauye these dresses are most at
tractive and they are exceedingly smart and
most useful; but. of course, the dark shades
of blue. brown and gray are far more serv-
iceable for general wear. The collar, reyers
and cuffs may re finished with separate
white linen or lace sets and as these only
button on to the jacket they can be changed
repeatedly and thus keep the coat always
trim and neat.
The prettiest bodice for this style of cos
tune is fine white dimity. with the friil
and tie bordered with the color OF the
material in the suit or, II the dress Is OF
dark shade, the frill may be introduced
in lighter tone. such pale blue. with
dash of -mauve and pink or blue. with
gray.
A brown linen frock is sure to be most
useful dress, for 1t can be worn In town
and then altered many times during the
summer when a dark gown Is necessary
but when. ii is too hot for either SILK or
cloth. brown linen princess dress with
white lace collar and cuff Is stylish Tor
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21

less bur the more elaborate fashions suit
able for the afternoon. are to be seen IN
much more variety The three-piece c,s-
tume-skrt. waist and coat to correspond
this year considered the smartest The
coat Is short and more or less fanc!fG.ly
trimmed. Sometimes the gown is Of one
material and the coat of another. and al
present the fancy silk coats are most pOpu-
lar. To be original seems TO be the end
and aim OF the designers, who try various
methods to produce effective results. Cloth
or yelling skirts, with the silk or cloth
jacket to match. may be immensely smart,
but the silk skirts with short braided
cloth jacket. find many enthusiasts. who
exclafrn over the beauty and originality OF
the design. Yelling gowns with heavily
braided silk or cloth jackets. are among the
latest fashions and here again there IS OPP
portunity for color schemes without end.
brown yelling made up over a much lighter
shade of brown has cloth jacket OF the
lighter shade, almost entirely covered with
a most intricate pattern OF soutache braid:
the belt. If there is belt worn, Is OF
dark orange color. the only tints of contrast
among the different shades of the brown.
OF necessity the braided jackets are ex-
pensive. for the work is done by hand. but.
| again. 1t is possible to adapt this same
| fashion: there can be less braid and wider
| used, and the pattern chosen can be OF
much simpler design.
| Colored silk skirts with hats to match are
| again to be I'm fashion this year Certainly
the STYLE is effective one and at the same
! time is practical. for with a smart little
coat and hat a gown that in itself lacks
some quality that renders Ii ineffective can
be transformed into n most charming cos
tune. Last summer the fashion was at
tempted. but was SO badly carried out that
it met with success. Now it Is being
revived again. but with quite mannish
changes. and bids fair to be most popular.
Again all the new shades of brown can be
utilized. and the brown hats for the mo-
ment quite supreme. Only for a mo-
ment. though can they count on their sue
cess. for the shades of blue ef
fective that It will not be long before every
woman thinks it essential to her happiness
| to wear blue hat with jacket of the same
color. The gown itself must also be blue.
but of a lighter shade. If desired, 1t
may be made over lighter blue lining.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21

the natural pongee color are very fashion
able. Many Of the natural pongee color and
gray are lined with plain bright green
pongee that is a relief to the eyes, although
tunes as the shade In all one color The
pongee shades embroidered in self col
ors and some OF them are trimmed with
Cluny or Valenciennes- but the plain ones
are. after all. the most attractive A very
beautiful new shade. however, suitable for
wear on rather dressy occasions. Is of pom
gee almost entirely covered with Japanese
embroidery in birds and flowers wrought in
the natural colors.
The linen parasolS which bear the latest
touch of fashions fingers have little bits
of bright color mingled with their snowy
white or ecru tones. Lingerie parasols
made Of the finest handkerchief linen and
trimmed with quantities of lace and en-
broidery have sprays of bright flowers or
fruits. wreaths of green leaves conven-
tionalized designs of dots circles in col
ored silk here and there among the mira cles
of lacy loneliness which make up the para
sol cover. On the plain parasols of linen
meant for less elegant occasions the white
embroidery in linen thread is supplemented
by that in the colored thread. Open work
designs are also supplemented by garlands
Of colored flowers. colored scallops, &c.
There are also many new sunShadeS In
stripes and checks, especially in black and
white. One very attractive sunshade OF
: this sort has a white silk ground with
| black squares. quite large but open. The
| black line is in satin. Many of these
! insertion border Of white or ecru lace OF
| embroidery.
New Stripes and Checks.
There are. of course. most elaborate chif-
| fon parasols for use in the afternoon prom
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21
Crewe1 Worsted Work on New Frocks.

Tr is through watching the details of new
gowns that women with nmble fingers
. often able to give to their old ones
the cachet of smartness. This season it
would seem that any one with taste for
fancy stitches might delight in the various
lattice works which can be so advan-
tageousiv used In renovating old gowns.
Simply slash them into new and desired
shape and put them together again with
lattice work instead of with embarrassing
seams Lattice work indeed appears on
gowns Of both light and heavy materials.
while Doucet OF Paris shows preference
for their being made OF worsted instead of
silk thread OF the stun OF the gown. Should
a fiounCe of fanciful shape be placed at the
bottom OF the skirt its means of attaching
Inight we'll be the worsted lattice. The fare
OF the founce can also be accumulated by
slashing it at graduated intervals and using
the worsted lattice to hold the cut cloth
together =.
The worsted used to make the lattice Is
OF the double zephyr sort. A slightly com
plicated cat stitch makes an attractive lat
tics work. while those of Louis XIV design
are made by simply tying the worsted
where the slanting lines cross each other
IL is not necessary. however, to copy any
exact design in making a lattice work on
some old gown. One that Is originated and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21

atedly big. full plume will start from
directly in the front of the crown, and. COW
ering the entire crown, will fall down over
the top of the hat and back of the head A
co!ored or white ostrich plume on a black
hat Is iavorite fashion of the moment,
while black and white white and black
are also thought especially smart, and two
tones of color are more popular than ever.
Flowers and feathers and bows of ribbons
are used together with the addition of a
twist OF tulle or net or fold of velvet.
Hats to match costumes are no longer
obligatory. but there must be introduced
into the hat a touch of the most striking
color in the gown, At the same time it is
to be noticed that many of the hats are
just was fashionable last year, made to
match the gown exactly. and fine or heavy
StrawS are dyed to match the ma terlals
Some odd contrasts in co,ors are also evil
dent. and certainly never was there seen
such original and striking variety in the
different shades that are combined. On a
hat of burnt straw color is twist of
orange velvet around the crown. while a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21

constructed with little labor will serve the
purpose admirably. By it's means small.
ungainly sleeves may be made full and
modish, and belts. showing slashes and lat
tice work at their sides. appear as though
lately brought from Paris.
Crewel worsted work in fancy stitches is
seen on the most hairy of all hairy cloths.
Heavy lines of 1t are worked at the top of
hounces and on the sleeves and collars of
small Jackets. In such cases designs of
leaves are popular. This crewel worsted
work is broad and heavy, the stitches being
very long. Sometimes the outlining is done
with black and the filling in with crewel
worsted toning with the color of the cloth
Another effective detail of Paris gowns is
the CLEAN here and there of gold thread in
fancy stitches. On black gowns especially
this is seen as quite new and gay trim
ming The sheaf of wheat pattern is one OF
the most attractive. 1t is. however, al
elaborate design 10 undertake. and should
be stamped at some reliable shop before
the filing in with gold. thread Is begun
For accentuating this design places are
sometimes left for tiny gilt buttons to be
sewed on at intervals
Shadow work Is still popular and is much
used on blouses OF sheer material. Chrys-
anthemums. carnations and conventional
designs are most suitable for this style OF
work. The outline is dexterously followed
by cross-stitching on the wrong side of the
goods.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21

big dropping ostrich plume of quite a diff
ferent shade. almost a dead-leaf brown, is
the only trimming. The coloring is eN-
quisite, however. Surely only an artist
could have so combined the colors. Burnt
straw, burnt orange color in straw, is a
great favoriIe. and with it are combined
Inauve, red and blue, the plumeS matching
the trim of net. ribbon or velvet rather than
the straw. a bunch Of violets or pansies
on burnt straw trimmed with mauve is a
most fashionable combination to which the
addition of few sprays of mignonette or
some green leaves adds simply most be-
coming touch A pink, deep red or yellow
rose with its accompanying green leaves
nestled i'll the folds OF both, a cluster of
gray, white. black or brown feathers is a
faVorite color harmony that is almost with
out exception becoming. while in the white
lace straw hats the colored flowers small
stiff bows give a decided and most charm
ing relief TO the too great monotony of all
white. just now all. white gowns are as
a rule given a touch of color in the trim
ming at belt or collar in the narrow
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21

simple morning wear and a boero to cor
respond with the costume makes an eX-
ceedingly attractive suit
For the morning extremely simple frocks
are to be worn. White is still most pop
ular for general use 1t Is most econom-
ical and always looks smart. The PLAIN
shirt waist with little frills down the front
and stiff linen collar finished with soi'
tie are so attractive that they are being
initiated in the dresses and this style Is
seen in all the palmer morning dresses.
the waist having short plated skirt or
the same material either dimity, lawn,
linen or madras. Perhaps because 1t wears
so badly, or perhaps because the thin white
texture attracts the heat and causes the
neck and arms to be so badly burned.
heavier white is to be worn this summer
than has been in favor for some time.
Many of the white embroidered linen gowns
are really quite warm and ii is this style
of dress that is to besused for tennis. golf.
etc.
Corded linens. may not give satisfactory
wear, but they are so exquisitely pretty.
many of them, that there is no danger OF
their passing out of favor for some time
to come. Many OF these are deliberately
embroidered others only trimmed with
lace and tucking, but really all of these
models so far are exceedingly attractive.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21

folds of satin or velvet half hidden in the
lace fichu jabot.
All sorts of weaves in straw are fashion
able. although the preference is for the
lighter and more transparent. Grin is used
again, but the extremely fine straw is really
smarter. the best hats being light in weight
no matter how much trimming there is on
them.
An important part of the spring hat is the
crown. which this year has suddenly as
sumed much larger proportions than last
season. There does not appear to be any
fixed law to what the size and exact
shape may be. but the crown must be evil
dent. The most attractive styles have the
twist of soft velvet just around the medium
size and medium height crown; the more &c
centric have a succession of bows one
rather stiff bow at the left side, while
directly in front there is no trimming at ALL
One extremely odd style has a wide fiat
shirred rosette that half covers the crown
and serves as a starting point for several
feathers of varied length and color A light
yellow straw with rosette of changeable
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21
IN SUMMER FABRICS.
Weaves Are Heavier Than Used
Formerly.

1t is really not at all too soon to get the
summer trousseau started, for If one waits
until warm weather really commences then
it is almost impossible to have proper at
tention from the dressmakers and tailors
and there is bound to be a great deal of
fuss and confusion that can perfectly well
be avoided by having the outfit fairly well
completed before 1t is time to start out for
the country.
The first gowns to be worn in the late
spring and early summer are the linen
dresses. and these costumes are not one
bit less popular this year because of hav-
ing been So fashionable for the last three
or four seasons. Linen, duck and crash
are to be used again. made up in all styles
of dress both for afternoon and morning.
TO wear in town during the spring a linen
or crash coat and skirt suit Is a most
convenient thing to possess. for It Is SO
light and soft, and, incidentally, can be
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21

crease both in size and number toward the
upper part of the flounce
The material for the waists of these robe
frocks usually comes in plain batiSte, and
there is generous quantity of colOred
openwork insertion for the bodice. The
openwork is intended for the upper part of
the bodice and the sleeves. No lingerie
frock or waist is now considered possible
and sleeves.
Linen Hand Bags for Summer.
One of the fads of the approaching sum-
mer will undoubtedly be the hand bags OF
embroidered linen which are now seen in
all the fashionable linen shops. 1t is there
fore well that the woman who can en-
broider and make things neatly should en-
ploy her leisure moments in creating one OF
these bags The idea of linen hand bags is
not an original one. but is the revival Of an
old fashion which has been In vogue In
Italy and other parts of the continent for
many years. The Italian linen bags carried
by ladies of quality are wonderful pieces
of needlework. and are worth fabulous
sums They are generally rather ample In
size. and are a solid mass of the heavy,
intricate Italian embroidery. which. though
done linen. scarcely shows half inch
of that fabric left intact after the work Is
finished. The decoration. intricate and mi
nutely perfect. turns the solid fabric Into
what resembles piece of handsome heavy
lace. The incrusted embroidery is mingled
with open work. but al Is so heavily and
handsomely done that the substantial quail
ity of the bag is increased twofold by the
handiwork.
The bags shown in the American shops
for ordinary use are much simpler. the EN-
broidery design. although heavy and well
done, covering only small portion of the
bag and being comparatively open in de-
sign These bags are made of pure white
linen, generally. whereas the italian bags
are in the true linen color. which adds to
tboir The hays
shapes-obrong, with the length up and
down. square or larger across than they
are in depth. They are also rounded at the
bottom with pointed tops. &c. Some of
them are drawn up through casing with
a white cord and others are neatly finished
with a flap, after the manner of pocket
books They are of heavy linen and double,
and the embroidery is quite heavy.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-04-21

brown ribbon in the rosette, has feathers
shading from brown to green also, and the
cOlorS are charming.
The old favorite. the Gainsborough hat
is also 10 be noticed with quite a high but
medium sized crown, while In those hats
that are of two three different materials
the brim OF straw, the crown of lace or
ne.-the crown is almost on the Tam o
Sharter order. The same can also be found
in the erin and soft weayes of straw, but in
the two latter materials the large crown
is sometimes too unwie!dy TO be really
smart.
The number of hats supposed to be abso-
lutely requisite to a thorough outfit is
somewhat alarming when the limits Of an
ordinary income have to be considered. for
variety would seem to be the war cry of
fashion at the moment. The different col
ored hats that are worn with the gowns
for which they are specially designed are
not as rule. considered correct with other
gowns, and vet there never was a time
when contrasting colors were more worn.
Hats in the newest styles are extremely
expensive this year, and yet 1t would seem
as though Dame Fashion wished to be kind
to her followers. for that most practical
style. the all-black hat with ribbon trim.
| stiff wings and long ostrich plumes. is most
| popular. while greater variety of effects
! is permitted by the introduction of colored
| feather with the trimming. The material,
! either the finest straw or erin, requires no
| trimming save one long plume. that can be
| most gracefully and becomingly arranged
around the crown, while the end of the
| plume hangs down on the hair. The brim
| of the hat can be bent or twisted at will.
| SO that 1t can be made becoming to almost
| any one There many charmingly
! becoming shapes in the fine black stray,
| and old feathers can be done over so many
| times and made to look like new. that almost
! any woman can play milner and turn out
! a most satisfactory specimen of millinery
| If she does but follow after this fashion.
Every day now more new fashions
| in the smart street gowns, especially in
| those gowns intended for afternoon wear.
The palmer tailored gowns for the morn