The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-10-27
DARKER BLOUSES TO Be HAD
lingerie WAISTS No MORE 4
NECESSITY IN WINTER.


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The separate blouse, maligned but in
dispensable. has once more given the lie to
those fashion authorities who insist that it
IL outside the pale of the new modes. The
silk waist Of earlier years, worn with a skirt
to which H. has no intimate relation and
taking the place Of a bodice and skirt cos
tune. has indeed lost all claim to modish-
ness. but 80 long as coat and skirt costumes
retain their vogue separate blouses will he
needed TO accompany them. and though
tho btouse is smartest when IL is obviously
an integral part Of the costume this is not
IN absolute necessity.
The Ane lingerie blouse We have always
with US, and in its handsome phases it. is
to-day ~ much a feature Of a cold weather
wafdrobe as of a summer outfit; but many
wcmen dislike lingerie blo,ises after the
first crisp cold days arrive. and for them
the designers have this season produced an
unusual supply of models darker, less easily
soiled. but not always much warmer than
The sheer summary creations in embroidered
lingerie and lace.
There are innovations in the province
~ he ready made blouse this season. Here
tofore it has been possible to buy white
blouses Of silk. satin, crepe, chiffon or lace
III dltf1Orl UHy utkTet VI eIekhnCt, DuI tne
dark blouse has usually been Of the simplest
sort. %clinging TO shirt waist lines or depart
ing from them with unsatisfactory results.
The woman who wanted a truly smart
dark blouse for wear with a trotting frock
was obliged to have it made, and even then
more often failed than not.
For some time past the heavy durable
chiffon known as chiffon cloth has been first
favorite for the costume blouse, being sheer
enough for comfort in our overheated
buildings. Offering possibilities Of daintiness
and dressiness. yet practical for all that.
Dyed nets and laces also claimed attention
as blouse materials and after them came
tho soft silks and crepes.
This fall blouse makers who supply the
ready made models have been inspired to
Offer to their trade blouses of chiffon cloth,
thin wolfe, net and lace in dark colors-
blues. browns. green's. black-made after
the fashion of the lingerie blouses. without
bones or fitted lining. The sheer dark
stuff is laid over a white chiffon or mousse
line. or in some instances a sheer India
eilk. and affords all the comfort of the I'M
lined lingerie blouse while echoing the color
Of the costume and looking warmer than
the blouse of batiste or null.
The sinartest Of these dark little hlouses
are simply maze, Dut renewed Dy becoming
guimpes of creamy lace or bat iste and a
c~leverly designed guimpe, cravat or collar
will give cachet to the plainest of softly
plated models. Tiny bands of embroidered
silk. fancy braid or soutaching ornament
some of the blouses. but the danger Of
cheapcning 10y overelaboration is threaten
ing here as in all ready made garments.
and il is far better to have a fine lace or
daintiiy tucked net for guimpc with some
chic little cravHt or iabot arrangement to
lend originality and to leave the res: Of
the blouse simple Of line and untrimmed
than to attempt cheap elaboration
For handsome hlouscs az well as for the
simple models chiffon cloth is "A favorite
mat erial and nets. especially the tilet nets
embroidered by hand and dyed to match
the costume. are considered extremely
sma RI. Embroidered nets and laces. dyed
or in natural tone. trim many OF the chiffon,
crepe and satin blouses and hand embroidery
upon satin. silk or velvet il another popular
trimming. ~ is fine soutache embroidery
lone Ivy hand directly upon the chiffon.
Upon the guimpe much dainty hand
work is often bestowed, though the guinpe
Of the chic blouse is usually a very shallow
affair, save directly in front, where it rum
down in V or L fashion, the round yoke
form ~ R1itnIe having iOSt C3Sl'.
Collars are fitted close and very high at
sides and hack. curving down 10 a COM
Portable line under the chin, and upon the
proper fitting and shaping Of the collar
viii depend much II the smartness Of the
blouse. In order that the high side and
back effect generally becoming and alto
together merciful to the woman whose
throat and chin nave lost the youthful
curvesymay I've secured the collar is most
often made from some fine lace or net and
finished al the top by a band or edge, instead
of being made from lace with n straight
edge: and since a collar and guimpe cut from
sheer material and meeting in n seam at
the base Of the throat arc not lovely q
tiny narrow cravat or band enCircling the
neck. covering. the seam and finishing in
front with n chic little bow il very fire.
quently employed.
Inv pendant tassels or balls may dangle
from the ends of the minute bow or perhaps
in place of a cravat a soft, small cord il
drawn around the collar and knotted in
front. Often no trimming goes around the
collar. but very small bows are set down the
guimpe front from top to bottom. or a bow
and jabot Of lace adorns the front.
Narrow lace insertions set together with
open work stitchery are cleverly fashioned
into guiinpes ana collars, anu where an
sllover net or lace to suit can he secured
dressmakers obtain good results by using
an insertion wide enough TO correspond
with tie deepest point in the collar.
One band Of this insertion shaped at the
top will make the collar and the guimpe
may he formed by setting bands Of the
insertion together with open stitch and
using them vertically. When the lace is
set together with gold or silver thread and
9 fold Of gold or silver tissue set at the top
OF the collar one has a splendid effect.
The picturesque Japanese sleeves and
srmhole draping have Influenced the de-
signers Of blouses, and some Of the prettiest
models offered show this influence; but if
the blouse IL for wear under an ordinary
coat sleeve il ia "A mistake to Weld TO the