Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-11-10


more masculine style.
Long jackets, trimmed with braid,
buttons and velvet, and opening on
to walstcoats, cutaway coats and
sloping shoulders, with tucks, pip
ings and insertions, are in the
greatest vogue.
Inspiration has evidently been
drawn by the couturiers from Louis
XIV and Louis XVI military uni
forms, but the result is very new
and modern.
One of the p1 ttiest new tones Is
the "kingfsher," which is greeny-
blue. Another novelty are wreaths
of ivy leaves in dark green and
autumnal tints on felt hats. A large
purple faille hat, lined with soft
mauve satin, was picturesquely
trimmed with a myriad tassel-like
fuchsia flowers in tones of rich pur-
pie rose and white. Fuchsia is
quite the latest flower to be en-
ployed in millinery.
The coming fashions can be better
gathered at the leading "premieres"
than anywhere else just now, and at
the "frst night" at Antoine's last
week it was clear that the princess
gown, with shawl-shaped bodice and
narrow, close-itting skirt, is not
superseded by any other style, seeing
that these models are the creation
of a firm whose taste is acknowl-
edged as a criterion the world over.
For evening dresses velvet, supple
satin, mousseline de sole and the
new square meshed tulle will be
largely employed for evening dresses
this winter, while flet lace will be
dyed to the exact tone of the gown.
Gold and silver lace are not any
longer fashionable, but white lace
is sometimes embroidered with gold
threads which outline the pattern.
Clinging, enveloping skirts are
the latest vagaries of the creators
of fashion, and semi-high-waisted
gowns which give height to the fig
ure and produce certain folds which
are eminently graceful are being
worn to very marked degree.
Colors and shades have never
been more perfect, more varied and
more artistic than they are at pres
ent. There is quite furore for all
shades of mauve, heliotrope, violet
and purple; the latest effective COM
binations of colors appear to be
mauve and blue, not in light tones,
but beautiful Parma mauve and
a full-toned blue.
Hats are more and more huge
they are certainly becoming, but it
seems almost time now to cry halt
and to return to more reasonable di-
mansions.
The most curious harmonies are
achieved in millinery, such as Nat
tier blue and mole brown, green and
violet, gray and brown, flame red
and black.
The brims of some hats are
slightly folded over on one side or
in front; others are quite round,
The Clowns are not very high, usu-
ally round, but they are not visible
as a rule, being covered with huge
choux of panne or velvet in one or
two shades, or masses of soft surah
silk with fringed edges, or else COM
pletely concealed with bushes of
light feathers, aigrette, ostrich and
cocks feathers, which dart forth on
all sides with the greatest daring.
Autumn leaves, also, are being used
in a similar way.
Nothing definite has been decided
about sleeves, and both long and
short sleeves will be worn this win
ter; the lower part of long sleeves
are often transparent.
The smartest belts for the coming
season are rather broad, made of
embroidered satin, and both edges
of the belt are bordered with half
an inch or so of black satin, stitched
finely on to the embroidery; the
edging must always correspond with
the gown worn. With these belts
are worn broad square buckles,
chased and enameled in dark blue
or black on gold. green, pale blue
and mauve.
individuality in Styles