Ellsworth American. [volume] (Ellsworth, Me.) 1855-current, 1907-04-10
An ITALIAN OUTING.
,,,-,..sn for THs AxxsrcAs. BY Elizabeth A.
S.lsby.I

,y.,. q bubbub! 1t was ~ II che had
...avertently stepped upon an anthill and
~ !. the little black creatures scurrying to
~ 80 ONLY in this case sound was added
~ A moment before, quiet had
s.;.ned in the great square ct Naples.
~ ornins sunshine had laid its spell
~. an man and beast. The cab-drivers,
IN hats drawn down over their eyes,
sa.ed upright in their seats OF stretched
:. mil length across them. The horses
-. themselves together, heads down
"a one knee bent, looking for all the
:. -o,,d as II a slight push would knock
,hs,r feeble legs out from under them. A
',..,er Of children lollsd ON the edge Of
-. y. ~a,k. their naked feet stretched out
=. ~ the warm glow, their feet In shadow.
no Neapolitan ladies' paused TO gaze u
\. display Of coral in Rocco Mosabito's
window.
auddenly the charm was snapped. The
.s,.nt of two QUESTIONING New Eng
,.,dsrs was enough TO galsanise and 1T in
,.otion The whole square. On they came,
those sleepy drivers, smoothing rusty silk
~, and righting dusty old cps. Inn
.o.tunate cries Of: s.Lady, lady! whore
I'm want got" sounded evsfywhsrs.
noxn the side streets came reinfofcsmsnts
,..noment the din. The drivers leaned
=, over the carrises sides. Thsy, stood up
.od waved their arms. They cracked
their whips. They snapped their fingers.
In dismay we gazed into each others eyes
and reading mutual capitulation there,
without q word, we. bolted across the
,,r.et where moment later the snap Of
Cooks screen door gave the signal that We
ware safe from our pursuers.
Emerging soou after, We selected at ran
dom one pair OF gesticulating arms;
climbed into what proved to Be the most
disreputsble carriage Of all, and shambled
OF to the railway station.
Now we had been In Italy nearly two
months, having come down from the
north, across the Alps, to the lake region,
where we had idled away sort Of dream
time. We thought that we had become
accustomed to the Italians. Long ago the
impression had worn away that every
dark brown stranger WAS bandit. We
no longer had nervous chills when passing
wildly gesticulating group, for fear that
ito members were plotting our untimely
end. After Lugano, narrow streets and
dim arcades held no terrors for US. By
degrees we had grown holder, until, with
the aid OF our first year Radcliffe Italian,
we had even ventured OF the beaten track,
zigzagging along IS fancy dictated, very
much as child, in . fiowery meadow,
gathers blossoms for daisy chain.
Our chain was one Of pleasant memories.
Everywhere the experience had been the
sams, among those simple, kindly folk
with whom word, gesture and smile
goes far. A gentle welcome had been ours
wherever we had strayed, and kindly
interest sped US on our way until we had
declared that we would have none Of the
personally conducted. There should be
no coupons, no special parties. For US, it
should be just 1.-TWO in Italy". But that
was before we had seen Naples, or rather
before the Neapolitan cabmen had seen US.
Now We openly rejoiced in the possession
Of the magic bits Of pasteboard which,
for whole long week, were to insure US
against all haggling and importuning.
At the end of train-ride Of about an
hours duration we reached Pompeii. We
felt that the journey ought to have been
made in chariot, but the ancient and
modern are constantly meeting thus in
Italy. The sun was sending down its
nercest rays, obliging US to seek shelter
upon the veranda Of the Hotel Luisse, to
lunch and linger there until we could
with comfort walk to the confines Of that
mysterious city, more wonderful by far
than picture or description had presented
TO our Imagination. When we did set
forth, line of beggars, guides and clam
ofing farce drivers started up from no
one knows where. At the entrance we
were rid Of them, however, and were soon
picking our way over the stepping stones,
following the rurs Of the chariot wheels.
How large the city seemed, with its net
work OF interesting streets, walls OF
houses and baths, and pillars OF temples
stretching away on all sides, while over
against it all stood the great, sullen vesu-
sius sending forth its smoky breaths in
long, hard pants, with Ever and anon .
wnl'ling cloud Of fame color.
We slipped out Of the sunlight into the
shadow OF some giant column to pause and
ses our bearings. In fancy we saw the
sv throng which came and went, crowd
.ns the narrow streets with eager, pulsat-
'ug life. Our eyes and ears were filled
WIN the color and the stir OF those by.
soae days. We listened. Beneath, like an
1noeftone, sounded the mutterings and
saosns which foretold that awful doom.
.ais house, at the right may have been the
.u Juiia's. Up these narrow stairs must
'ue go to her chamber. How tiny is that
.wm' windowless and cool, with its
'ulck' stone walls. Perhaps Nydia drew
"s@f Tor her flowers from this very
.Ountain where we are lingering now,
~ ner hand sank Is she stopped to fill
:. .'f earthern jar, into the hollow worn in
Gfr.r