New-York tribune., 1907-08-12
WAISTS FOR THE FALL.
As Large Variety as EUer IN the
SeD1rate Model.

What in the world did women before the
shirt waist invented?" is frequent inquiry
the part OF young women whose years do not
extend back to that period. Such inquiries
need only refer to the family albums and por-
traits OF three decades ago to see not only what
people did in that benighted period but what they
never likely TO do again The separate waist fs
boon which fashion refuses to relfnqu1sh- ana
the fall fashions show as great variety of these
Indispensable garments as ever before greater
variety than past have afforded would
probably be impossible.
THE TAILORED" WAIST.
The tailored waist of rather heavy fabrics. will
be found most comfortable for the cool days Of
autumn and those who do like its severity can
relieve 1t with ruf1ed jabot The sleeves closely
follow the rules laid down for the making OF the
masculine shirt. are gathered finely into the arm
hole and finished with stiff cuffs fastened with
link buttons. The sole suggestion of femninfty
shows In the collars OF embroidered linen. some
times edged with lace frs and secured by butter
fly bows of null and lace. by ribbon cravats
kept in place with jewelled pin
OF course the list of linens. lawns and dimities.
with their profusion of lace and embroidery is
full and complete, and next above them In the rank
of separate waists are net and lace creations.
The imitation bebe Irish waist is the best invest
ment possible for the economical woman. as 1t
may be worn the year round. its lining being one
of those thin washable silk underwasts on sale In
GeIAaan laces used with good effect
he three-quarter length sleeves are trimmed with
wide lace laid in groups of tucks and finished with
deep cuffs of ribbon and lace net. The high
collar. fashionable. Is always boned, is
also the built-in grdle rapidly coming into favor.
especially on waists of fine NULL embroidery and
lace. which will doubtless have another winter Of
popularity The bOning not only holds the gar
ment firmly O the figure at the waist line, but
keeps the blouse generally jn shape
ELABORATE MODELS
Waists in black and cOors intended to be worn
with pongee voile and silk skirts Of similar hue
of chiffon silk muslin lace and net. Because these
transparent fabrics beautiful in themselves
they require scarcely trimming, but are usually
laid in fine tuCks accordion pleated: the yoke
outlined with appiques or medallions OF heavier
lace embroidered filet These dark waists
the standby of the woman who runs into town for
a days shopping and to lunch even dine at
fashionable restaurant. Sometimes they of the
Jumper style. designed to be worn over white net
lace blouse. They built with self girdles
made in one with the waist. and so boned that
there is possibility of their slipping out Of posi-
tion when worn over the skirt band
SILK waists were the first OF the separate type
to come into being and will doubtless he the last
to disappear. If anything unlikely should hap
pen The initial silk waist the companion Of
the black silk skirt that for long regned
I'm the American wOman's wardrobe. In the higher
shades Of blue and green. well mauve. maize
and pink. soft silks such surah. being made
UP eiaoorateiF WIN Whte laoe or narrow NeINet
ribbon. In the darker shades these waists match
the tailored suits.
PLAID BLOUSES.
AS regularly as rumors of war stir the American
public the plaid waists return fashions favor.
They are charmfngiy modish when worn with
those smart tailored separate skirts and suits OF
Scotch mixtures. Of which many ~ tho smartest
outer garments TO be made this fall. Silken
plaids never moro beautiful. Not only have
all the plaids which once warred against
other IN the land a. Cakes been reproduced but
countless others which Scottish antiquarian is
able to recognize Attractive plaids developed
in all the brown combinations frightened by sug-
Eestons of yellow and modified by touches of
black The simpler Of these plaid silks exactly
reproduce the tailored shIrtwaists OF the summer
tina: others have the frilled and Marie Antoinette
fronts. while pipngs and ornate buttons trim plain
models most effectively.
The sleeves of the plaid blouse long o
well the waiss, and once beyond the
regulation maunish skirt type there is considerable
latitude in trimming them. Some Of the sleeves
sla shed TO show transparent underseeyes. The
plaid waist may be with the linen collar,
but It is usually accompanied by the fashionable
hi - collar OF plain silk to match the foundation
tint Of the material. secured by bow of the plain
silk