Los Angeles herald., 1907-03-31
Charming Devices of the
Tailor - Skirts Main
tain a Sensible Length
Trimmings are Compli-
Gated and Elaborate =
Footwear an Important
Factor-Hats That Ap-
proach the Picturesque.

With the early spring weather, when
fur coats and fur-lined wraps are put
aside, the three-piece taior-made costume
springs into prominence once more. This
season it would seem as though the tailors
had been trying to improve upon their
winter reputation for elaboration, for all
of the new models are trimmed after the
most complicated fashions.
The, materials in themselves are such
that their clever manipulation leads to
trimming effects that demand the highest
class of skill in handling. Stripes, checks
and plaids-those latter chiefly of the
nondescrlpt and broken varieties are
mostly in favor, and there is no limit,
save that set by the ingenuity of the de-
signs to the trimming effects that can be
wrought in the use of the material alone,
lthout any extraneous help from braids,
velvets and other trimming novelties.
In the coat and skirt suit, which flour
fishes nightly in spite Of the vogue Of the
separate wrap on the other side of the
ocean, some charming devices are set forth
in which this appearance OF an elaborate
trimming is effected in the use of the ma
terial in bias bands and folds, in con-
trasted perpendicular and horizontal lines,
in stripes that meet in v line and other
deft manipulations that are common to
the clever tailors art
In coat shapes everything from the most
abbreviated EtOn jacket-and some of
them end their brief career somewhere In
the vicinage Of the shoulder blades-down
to the long-itted garment that follows
Chesterheldian lines and extends well-nigh
to the hem Of the skirt, each and every
one seems to be just as fashionable and to
receive as full a share of modsh atten-
tiOn as the others.
But among the younger sets there is
evident a very pronounced fancy for a
little coat shape that cleverly combines
the fitted Jacket and the loose pony coat
TO perfection. This sets closely to the
lines of the figure at the back and sides
the fronts are adjusted with single dart,
while the center fastening follows n loose
straight line that cannot fail to prove be-
coming to the slender erectness of
youthful figure. Below the waist line
those little coats are cut with a fullness
in the seams that gives slightly ripple
effect, this emphasizing the hip line and
by force of contrast making the waist all
the more slender.
Time and again has the deathknell OF
the little Eton been sounded, fully as oft
ms that of the separate blouse; but those.
selfappOnted executioners notwithstand-
ing, both of those dainty items Of the
wardrobe continue to flourish nightly.
Some of the new Etons are a long call
and a far cry away from the original
Elton; but no matter under what name or
title they make their bow, they are fully
as fashionable as they have ever been, and
that's saying good deal.
Some very smart loose sacques are dis
played, those coming but an inch or so
below the waistllne, and making not the
slightest attempt to define the hguge at
any point, except across the shoulders.
And, by the way, the coat that has the
sleeve attached to the outer material, as
well as TO the lining, Is distinctly In the
minority this year, the great majority or
models having the sleeve attached only
TO the lining, and the outer part of the
garment built out TO cover the sleeve
~nnd shoulder seam altogether. A good
stlff canTas interlinlng is necessary 10
the correct carrying out Of this idea, and
the best tailOrs reinforce II by n second
layer, In which the thread of the goods
runs counter to that OF the top layer,
ana row after row OF machine stitching
Is employed 10 hold the two In place
Anticipating the warm weather, many
Of the new models are cur extremely
low and round at the neck, many OF
them covering but half of the shoulder
fine. Much trimming Is disposed at this
point, and then carried down the front
OF the coat, mostly In semblance OF vest
effects In a goodly number there Is the
design OF an under coat carried out,
usually In goods of contrasting color, thls
also appearing I'm the cuff, whlch ihen
takes the form of an undersieeYe
AS for skirts, they are many aud Rarl-
Gus. and yet all alike IL the one point