The Birmingham age-herald., 1907-11-03

souan dam to Wady Halfa, where the railroad across the desert begins The ship Is a sternwheeler, much like those on our rivers. It is about 20 feet wide, l50 feet long, and 1t draws only six Inches of water We make about six miles per hour, and our pilot, a dark-faced, short bearded Nublan in urban and gown winds his way from one side of the river to the other as we go on up the stream.
 We fly the Egyptian and Soudanese flags but the steamer belongs to the gov ernment of the Soudan, and that means 1t Is English. The captain, however, is German, and the rest of the crew are Nubians, most of whom are as black as your hat. The eaptain speaks German, French, English and Arabic. He at tends to everything connected with the steamer, even to the meals, to seeing that the passengers arc properly served. Our walters are blaeR-faced Nubians, in long white gowns, beited in at the waist by sashes of bright red. They wear white turbans, and their feet are either bare or clad in red slippers.
 l find the steamer comfortable and the company agreeable. Ihe boat has two decks. On the lower one are % cabins and the dining room, where our meals are served table d'hote. Over the upper an awning is stretched, so that we can sit
 
 the river.
 Our party consists of several commer- eal travellers who are bound for the Soudan and Central Africa to sell or buy goods. two missionaries. who are going Up the Sobat river; a capitalist, largely interested in land development enter prises about Khartoum, and of people who are on their way to the Blue Nile 10 hunt big game. Among the latter are | G.ar h+3. and ii tTriTa aY1d British army officers from India, who arc spending their leave in thls way. Most of our party appears in evening clothes at dinner, although we are far away Tn the wilds of Nubia, with nothing but desert on each side Our meals are served in courses with a half dozen changes of plates, knives and forks, and We have napkins.
 How One Suffers In the Desert.
 Indeed. 1t may interest you to know just how ono suffers out here in the Des- ert of Nubia l will give you the bill of fare for one day. At this morning, while [ was yet in bed, my black boy ap- peared and handed me a cup of hot tea. with two sweet crackers on each side of the saucer. At o'clock the bell rang for breakfast in the dining room. The meal was as follows Fried fish, fresh from the Nile; bacon. and eggs, bread and butter and jam with tea or coffee 10 order. At 1 o'clock came luncheon, con- ssting of rice. giblets, chicken. mutton chops and fruit. with bread and butter and cheese. Coffee, of course. At o'clock we had dinner. and the menu was as follows: First, an excellent soup, then a boiled fish just out of the Nile, followed by a compot of pigeons, roast lamb and mint sauce. with potatoes and string beans. Then there was q course of tomato salad, and after that a pudding and fruit. All this was eaten about as far above the Mediterranean sea as Omaha is above New Orleans, and the meals were served well. The charge for the food alone is s2 per day, and the fare without food for the two days trip is s25,
 do not find travel in Africa at all cheap. If one travels along the Nile ne must expect to spend BIO to $l5 day the cost increasing as he goes up the river.