The morning journal-courier., 1907-12-18

sions as when she particularly desires to appear at her best There are, too such enchanting new yellows this sea- son, running the whole gamut of tints and tones from that delicate greenish yellow of the lettuce heart to the red-yellow in the center of the mahogany chrysanthemum.
 Yellow lends itself deliciously to a combination with old lace, which also tends to bring out youthful tints in the complexion, and lace has never been used in greater quantity. or more artis- tically than this season.
 A yellow gown worn recently at a dinner dance, and which brought forth many admiring comments, was of crepe Mikado trimmed with lace and uncut velvet. The skirt was cut circular gored falling over a founda- ton similarly cut from heavy satin. Around the bottom there was a sev- en-inch border of velvet of the crepe shade. and above this some embroid- cry done in shades of yellow, reds, and brown, with colored jewels to give em- phasis to the design. The bodice, a draped surplice, had sleeves and tuck CT of deep creamy lace, and there were shoulder caps formed by a deft arrangement of the lace caught up at each side by a yellow satin rose.
 Not little of the responsibility for the generally picturesque effect of cos tunes lies with the sleeves. It is im- possible to describe them adequately, for they are so distinctly a part of the bodice, still often cut in one with it, and they are entirely individual The latest note is the fuil-length rucked sleeve of lace or net with rounded point reaching over the hand. Tho same effect may be carried out ir the gowr material, if it is pliable, or as for example, in connection with a broadcloth suit, the sleeves and yoke may be of chiffon, chiffon cloth, or lace matching the color. For evening wear the sleeves, if sleeves there be, are as diaphanous as possible, the sup porting material underneath being of precisely the same shade, in order that lit may not detract from this effect.
 With the long, clinging type of gown, where it is designed to aceentu- ate the classic effect, there are no sleeves, but sometimes drapery caught up through the center high on the shoulder, with long ends of the fa- brio falling in a line with the under side of the arm. Some of the import cd model evening gowns show return to the old mutton-leg lines in their sleeves, and the still more ancient 'Belva." In the former the material is draped, and if of net or gauge Is tucked into it's shape. The "Belva" is as ugly as ever. It suggests a bag, and no amount of trimming can make 1 it graceful, although it is being much affected upon evening frocks for young girls.
 There is a great fancy for the mili- tary sleeve, rot only for coats, but for really elaborate costumes This sleeve reaches just over the elbow, is only slightly gathered at the top, and. a- though in reality, it is slightly-shaped to the arm, it appears to ts merely tapered toward the bottom, where |, is finished with the regulation mRitars cuff The sleeve itself is invariabl, plain, but the cuff, which niay vary in depth from three to seven inches offers an excuse for any amount of decoration.
 This is particularly favorlte sleeve design for informal dinner costume and may or may not be suppfsmente by lace half-sleeves which either fal over the hand in deep frill or are shirred with an elastic band at the