The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1907-08-17

weather frocks; they are so crossed
and bound with bands of lace or en-
broidery or even with a tailored bands
Of the gown material as to have a GER
tain new appearance of simplicity that
t. the unininitiated is as battling as
it Is fascinating. 1t may be little far
fetched, but it almost seems as though
the very laces themselves were being
designed to accentuate this tendency
fol nearly all of them show combin-
alton of light fllnly design, balanced
with heavier, and we have exquisite
examples of Irish and Mechlin or Ven
Use, filet with Irish, Venise with gut
pure. and so on.
While we are touching upon
laces there is to be a strong
return to metallic designs, US
ually in combination. Another indica-
ton Of advanced simplicity is shown
in the neckwear. Instead of the fanci-
Iful, often garish jabots and cascaded
effects, which, if not adopted among
exclusive women, have at least been
dangled before our eyes in the shops
for the past seasons, there are these
same ideas modified into trig, smart
little accessories, in which we are all
sure to find delight in wearing. The
| long Marie Antoinette ruffie has been
turned into shaped band, embroider-
ed down the center and bordered at
either side with the same narrow
plating but bound at either side with
a very tiny band of lace or braid. This
lis attached to the stock underneath a
straight bow of silk or ribbon.
Another suggestion that we must
deplore is the dropping of the skirt to
ankle length. Practically, the very
short skirt was adopted only by the
New York girl Outside the city and
its environments the style did not
gain much ground. Still, it was not
only extremely comfortable to know
that there was no chance of ones
skirt trailing the dust but it was tre-
mendously youthful and becoming to
those whose figures permitted of this
style. However, Parisians persist in
going in for style regardless of COM
fort, and Americans have not yet ar
rived at the point where they dare be
too self-assertive. although from
many indications they seem to be
arriving"
For all costumes of anything like
formal occasions the skirts of the
coming season will be long and often
en- train. So far nothing has been
found quite to take the place of the
plated skirt, but quite as many clrcu-
lar designs are noticed, and the two
and three-piece circular will be a
great favorite for nearly all kinds Of
materials. This, too, is shown in
the gowns of the present. Even filmy
lawns and hatistes without number
are fashioned on circular lines, but as
they are always made to sweep the
floor the tendency toward sagging,
which is the chief impediment to the
beauty of all circular skirts, is obvi-
ated.
A very charming frock of white
batiste, checked off in hairline satin
stripes and dotted with small pule
| blue figures, was constructed on ctr
cular lines with the fronts cut on the
bias and a seam down the center. In
stead Of being plated at the back, 1t
was gathered, thus showing another
touch of semi-tailoring. This skirt
was quite plain, turned UP in four
inch hem at the bottom, with, just
over the front seam, three tiny but
terfly bows in blue velvet ribbon The
and was worn with a guimpe of en-
broidered batiste.
| 1t is all very we'll to be cool and
comfortably gowned under August
suns when one has the whole category
of colors and materials from which to
select, but to the woman in mourn
ing 1t is quite another and a most
lperplexing matter The heavy swath-
ings of crepe have entirely disappear
ed from the corrected fashion list
Indeed, for a time it appeared that all
outward semblance of mourning had
been eliminated but latterly there is
return to symbolic raiment.
Crepe is used sparingly and judici-
ously and there are many dull black
cloths and silks that may be utilized
in place of them. Crepe unostenta-
tiously used and properly applied is
artistic but only the e1ever modlste
knows how to bring this about, Flat
bands. long straight pieces, which
give simple effects, are always in bet
ter taste than small insettings or puff
fngs, which seem out of place, too evil
IDENTIFY an attempt at decoration. The
lveilings which make the most accept
able gowns may be of the sheerest
weave, as thin as the finest lawn. A
smart costume recently imported had
the skirt close fitting around the hips,
a seam down the front, and a three
inch band of crepe around the bot
tom. The bodice was entirely of
crepe, which was of the smooth weave
ad had a little pointed vest Of the
wolfe topped with, a small yoke of the
crepe. The three-quarter sleeves were
full at the elbow. with the fullness
brought into plaits, stitched at the
lower portion, and finished with bands
of wolfe,
There are very many wash materi-
ais that are not inappropriate for
wear in scorching weather, and al
though one recoils somewhat at the
combination Of crepe and batiste,
many of the most exclusive of French
creations are showing it, and at least
it has the merit of comfort. Usually
the crepe appears only as pipings, but
an occasional creation shows crepe in
more conspicuous decoration. Black
bastiste with the dullest possible fin
ish, which made up a Newport cos
tune for morning wear, had a plain