The Washington herald., 1907-09-26


originated in New England. from whence
II spread 10 every part Of this great
country. Few know, however, that the
greater part of the pies sold by bakeries
in all cities are made in Boston. Great
factories IN the Hub" are devoted TO the
concoction of pie filling" The filling is
packed in barrels. tubs, and pals, and
sent out to any baker who Will buy AS
the bakers can buy the filling cheaper
than they can make it at the bake-shop,
and as il saves much time and labor.
most bakers are patrons of the filling
factories.
The average sovereign American citi-
zen who grabs of a few minutes from
the treadmiu about noon and seeks the
precinct of a dairy lunch counter is sure
TO eat pie If he Is in Washington or ST.
Louis. he probably thinks the pie was
made right there. Not so. The films
came from Boston. most likely. in d tub.
and the local baker provided only the
crust and the fire. The filling factories
use real fruit. and an apple pie is made
Of apples, a 'punkin' pie Of pumpkins.
il is not the fruit that the pure-food ex-
peTts have assailed.
tub or blackberry pie filling made IN
Boston, 20 be used for satisfying the ap-
petites of them that gather al the lunch
counters OF Chicago must in the nature
OF things, he compounded of blackberries
and sugar. Such mixture. if left 70 it
self, will ferment and spoil Therefore,
the pie filling factories have been in the
If % H4fF H.H4HfH L. Of
benZOate OF soda TO the mixture, in order
10 preserve It, Now comes Dr. H W,
Wiley the chief chemist Of the Depart
ment Of Agriculture and head of the
pure-fOod experts, and declares that ben
zoate of soda is harmful 10 health and
must not be used. The pie filling makers
cry out, We viii be ruined. Dr. Wiley
says they can make the filling without
the use of a preseryative by packing il
In cans OF IN glass. The pie men say
this will bankrupt them. as the bakers
viii prefer 20 make their own filings
rather than 10 pay for the extra expense
DR.. Wiley is obdurate. Then the pie men
say they must put up enough filing al
each particular fruit season TO last d
whole year. and that it cannot be done
without using pTeservatives. DIT Wiley
retortS. can the fruit, put up a canning
factory where YOU get your fruit"
As the prohibition of the use Of benzoate
OF soda would have worked a great hard
ship upon manufacturers. and as there is
a difference of opinion among experts as
70 whether it is harmful or not. the pure
food authorities have decided that there
Will be no prosecutions for the use Of this
preservative In food.,.ii' a. which it has been
used heretofore untR next year Thus
the pack of 1907 viii De preserved as here
totore, but the manufacturers have been
warned that they must make arrange
ments To do without the preservativa for
the season e 1905 AH Of which affects.
not only the pies. bp' t.etchups. jams. jel-
lies, pickles, mincekla salt hsh. and
many other articles ~ food.
What do the bakers say? Some of them
agree with the pie ,Ien, and think il is
a shame, but others are inclined e. think
the law IS q good one and should be
enforced. one man. prominent in the bak-
ing trade said 4 have been i'm several
countries. and have never seen such poor
stuff used for filling as In the United
States. This fact is the more surprising
in view OF the fact that the American
housewife is without an equal as pre-
server Of fruits, although her English sis
ters may excel her I'm making jams and
Jellies.' The leading trade journals are
Inclined 70 the side of the pie-f.ling maxi
ers on the beuz1ate-Of-s0da question. but.
taken as "a whole, trey are hearty sup
portels of the pure-food law.
OF the millions Of pies eaten in America
every day, great number come from the
kitchen range. and have been prepared by
the housewife She knows how. But even
her triumphs Of culinary achievement
have been attacked by the physicians as
unwholesome. New Englanders who have
eaten pie three times a day for four
score years deny these charges bitterly.
The bakery pie. with its imported filling
and its quota Of chemicals. is a newer
thing, and has expanded its sphere Of in
hueuce with the growth of the quick
lunch counter. Without pie. the dairy
lunch cannot exist. and fl is safe TO say
that some way viii be found TO make the
filling and ship it over the country 10
save the pie its topmost place on the
national MONDAY bill Of fare.
Those candy makers who are united in
the National Association Of Confectioners
claim they actually made the pure-foOd
bill SAYS the national OranlzatiOn: Law
or no law. business integrity and COM
mon sense demand of every mauUfaC-
turer Of food products that he shall not
only use no ingredient that Is injurious
or detrimental 10 health, or misrepreseut
his goods By label or appearance. but
also. that he shall make and pack them
under sanitary conditions" To which no
man who eats food viii take exception.
Nevertheless. the candy makers are
having their troubles, along with the pie
men. Just hfty-one years ago a young
chemist in England was trying 70 manu-
facture quinine He did not succeed. but
by accident began 10 experiment with a
dark substance which he had obtained IN
his work The result was the color
"mauve." Thus Sir William Henry Per
kins, as he was called WREN he died a
few months ago. opened the way for the
making of auiiinc dyes. Nearly 1900 Of
the dyes are made from coal tar now. The
capital invested in the United States in
the business is 000)Q000 In Germany
the industry gives employment to 10000
persons.
Almost from the time Of this discovery
NC Cdllu9 lhuhcio nave Dctu using coal
ar dyes 70 color their corrections Dyes
sed iu candy must not fade. must not
aste and Of course, they must not be
oisonoUs. Many have been used in the
asst, however. which the pure-food ex-
srts deem injurious. The candy max
s, under the law. may not use any
res except those which the government
Us are harmless. Certain fruit and ami
al colOTings are admittedly harmless
"a may be used. But the candy makers
ant 10 use the synthetic colors because
~ 2 - hattar and mnra aasIlN HANDLED