The Hope pioneer. [volume] (Hope, N.D.) 1882-1964, 1907-11-07
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Section of Sidewalk.
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costing $1.50 or two dollars will lay 80
square feet of finished walk.
For the sake of illustration assume
that a walk is to be built three feet
wide and four inches thick, concrete
3A inches, top mortar three-fourths of
an inch. First, excavate trench three
feet four inches wide. If an open or
porous soil four inches below bottom
or eight inches below top surface of
walk, but if in clay soil this trench
should be eight or ten inches below
bottom of walk. From the lowest
point of trench lay tile so no water
will stand in trench to freeze. Now
fill this trench with cinders, gravel, or
stone, even, and lamp; when this is
brought up within four inches of the
top surface of walk the porous foun-
dation is complete. Now place side
forms (scantling, 2x4 inches, set on
edge). Stretch line tight, and from
line set scantlings straight; also they
must conform to proper grade line.
Secure these s~cantlings firmly by
placing a cross scantling every four
feet and securely stalking the outside
at each of these cross scantlings to
keep them. from spreading while the
concrete is tamped into place. Use
no nails or spikes; or in removing be-
fore thoroughly hardened the cast
might be broken. The surface into
which the concrete is tamped is first
sprinkled so that the dry surface will
not absorb the moisture from the con-
crete and thus arrest hydration. Mix
concrete for the 81 inches in the fol-
lowing way: Take n part Portland
cement, three parts sand (clean,
coarse and fine mixed), and four parts
aggregate (this may be gravel,
screened cinders, or crushed stone).
Place them in one pile on mixing floor.
While dry shovel back and forth at
least two times, until thoroughly
mixed. Now sprinkle with sprinkling
can while it is shoveled back and
forth two more times or until evenly
mixed and about the dampness of
fresh earth. This concrete is now
ready to place. Shovel into the sec
lions of the form, beginning at one
end and filling each section as you go,
tamping thoroughly and evenly to
within three-quarters of an inch of top
Of form. When the first section is
completed remove the cross scantling
and against the joint thus left bare
set board one-fourth OF an inch thick
and projecting above concrete so that
when this section is also filled it can
be Slightly crowded loose and re.
moved, thus leaving one-fourth of ain
inch division between each block.
This is important. The board is now
moved forward to the next joint, and
so on to completion. With knife or
pencil mark side forms exactly over
the one-fourth of an inch open joints,
80 that when the top mortar is spread
continuously over the surface the ton
mortar may be cut through into the
lower joint or opening with trowel
sliding along straight edge. The work
must be SO managed that the top NOR.
ar can always be placed on the con.
crete within two hours after the latter
Is placed, also the concrete should be
slightly sprinkled before the mortar
Is placed, so that the surface is moist.
Make mortar for top as follows: Port
and cement, n part; sharp, clean
sand, two parts. First mix dry, then
wet and work into a stiff mortar.
Place this on the concrete, spread with
:rowel, leaving the form rather full, so
that when stroked even with straight
edge the form is even full everywhere.
Leave for 20 minutes, when the
water will be e%vaporated. At this
time finish surfaces smooth and even
with float or trowel, but do not over
.rowel, which again brings the water
10 the surface. Run along each side
edge with edger, cut across joints with
:rowel and straight-edge at marked
points, u a jointer through these, or,
IN the absence of either edger or
%iointer, dub the edges with trowel,
After "a hours cover with grass.
straw, or carpet, wet thoroughly
:wice each day for six continuous
lays. when the walk is ready for use.