The San Francisco call., 1907-03-17

shoulder Is the style that calls for quite
a short shoulder seam and a sleeve
that Is set high into the armhole, and
this is displayed to the greatest ad-
vantage in the fitted coats that have
long skirts and that are made up IN
the figured silks and in lace. These
are extremely new, although they were
worn toward the latter part of the
season in Paris last summer and make
up especially well in the new bro
caded and lowered silks that are to
be found In so many fascinatingly at
tractive shades that have not been yet
seen. There can be variety OF col
orings. or there can be the faVorite
color scheme worked out-that is, one
or two shades Of the same color COM
bined. while the trimming Is OF a still
deeper shade A very charming coat
of this description is made in two
shades OF a very light gray. trimmed
with a plain ta1ets OF the same color.
but much darker shade. The taffeta
is put on in the collar, bands around
the sleeves and in flaps or tabs down
the front. which are held down by a
rhinestone or cut steel button. The
sleeves are large, and the fullness is
arranged most becomingly. so that it
is at the top Of the sleeve and falls
gracefully down to just above the ell
bow. where. as has been said. 1t is I'm
ished with a band of plain taffeta and
the fancy button.
Fancy Goats in Figured Silk
The pompadour silks. the pinks and
blues, are charming in these coats and
if so desired. the trimmings can be OF
velvet instead OF silk Rather q start
ling. though very smart effect. is OBJ
tanned by the black and white figured
silk with black velvet trimmings, and
although this is too eccentric. or rath-
er too marked. to be generally recon-
1aended II is certainly effective, and
can be worn over any one OF the fancy
lingerie or embroidered crepe gowns
that will be just as fashionable this
year as they were last. A pale pink
batiste. crepe de chine or silk gown 10
charming worn with a pink and white
figured silk coat of this description.
trimmed with pale pink taffeta, and
then a hat or pink straw with white
or pink feathers. seems to complets
the color effect IN most fasclnatingiy
satisfactory manner
The same idea, OF course. can be car
ried out in blue ard white, but some
how the pink is the snaartest Of all. 1t
requires good figure 20 wear coat
OF this kind. and yet it might more
truthfuliy be said il requires a good
dressnaker or tailor TO make such a
coat, for its very simplicity and sever
ity OF outline allows any fault OF cut
to show to terrible disadvantage, but
1t will not be long before the mystery
OF its construction Will be possible for
almost any dressm2ker. and certainly
those women who can AFFORD to pay the
prices asked by the artists at their
trade OF dressmaking cannot md
mucn more satisfactory way OF spend
ing money than in so distinctive and
effective a model
1t is quite too early In the season for
the lingerie gown to make its appear
ance. but there Is somehow more than
a hint OF it in some of the thester
gowns that are turned out for spring
wear, and, IN truth. the same models
will be seen later on in such material
as batiste or fine lawn that are now
shown in crepe dc chime or tafeta OF
a very soft quality. These gowns are
works OF art In the manner in which
thev are made, as we'll as in the trim
ming that Is used on them. The bands
of lace insertion or of embroidery are
so put on the gown that they outline
the figure At the same time they show
the beauty of the trimming There
is something. it must be admitted.
rather stiff in the effect as seen in the
model but the gown ITSELF finished
and worn by a woman with any grace
whatever, is very charming. The yoke
is a mass OF embroidery, and the front
OF the gown Is also a mass Of erabrold-
cry, while the back OF the gown has
the same embroidery.