The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-03-31
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
BY EDITH RAYMOND.

ma terials Is certain. The manufaC
tureDs of weols and silks reduced their
textiles TO the lowest possible weight
and filmiest textures last year. and
very slowly the tide has turned in the
other direction That women will ever
consent to go back TO "stand alone"
fabrics as in the days of their grand
mothers seems incredible after a long
acquaintance with materials so supple
that they droOp in the most graceful
folds and lines. But soft fabrics crush
easily and their wearing qualities are
indifferent.
Many silks and woods show ar in
crease in thickness. The vogue q
twilled weaves- aeeentuates this fact.
Surah and tWilIed- Japanese silks are
to be popular for blouSes again, q d
they are of0decidedly more weight 5han
the ones that have been used during
the last few years. All of the indiCa
tons from abroad point in this direc-
ton The moderately priced fabrics
are still as thin as ever, not having
caught the idea yet, and before tfey
do so there may come another reversal
of things and the thinnest weaves pos
sible TO make may again be in demand.
From the Riviera comes continual
talk of the extensive use Of stripes in
handsome tailOr-madeS, but here. while
stripes are ahead, the long used end
oveT-used check and plaid are still in
high feather. The long flowing skirt,
fitted smoothly at the hips and the
waistcoat are salient features of some
of the costumes.
The accentuating of the armhole by
trimming or other means continues a
feature of newly displayed bOdices al d
coats. A great many shoulder strap
effects are seen on new gowns. A leaf
chiffon cloth nf CTpnp
weave with an almost invisible self
cOiOred stripe has a blouse of ivory
white Alencon lace. This is crossed
by wide, soft bretelles of the chiffon
cloth in fichu effect. A velvet hem
headed by silver lace finishes the skirt
and silver embroidery brightens the
bretelles.
\ velpet gown with lace blouse has
novel bodice arrangement. The
skirt has a deep Empire girdle At the
neck there is a double cape arrange
ment of the velvet held together across
the front by shiFred band with ro-
settles at each side. From the rosettes
fall tabs ended with tassels.
1t would be nearly accurate to say
that there are more Paris gowns in
New York than are left in the gay
city. in the sense that the choicest ere
ations of famous French ateliers have
DeSn secured dl ttiOSb tdNlS1 6Aptiiul-
ture for this market.
AS usual with the best specimens of
French art in this field, the dress is
simple in line. The skirt, fitting per-
fectly at the top and swinging into
graceful fuiness at the foot, is weight
ed with couple of folds of the soft,
heavy satin of which it is built
The bodice is a simple. Open-neck,
sleeveless bebe affair, that in form
might be made no for the veriest
school girl; but the gold embroideries
that enrich its lustrous surface. front
and back. with the f1ame-colored pome-
granate embroidered exactly at the
center, take the gown into another at
mosphere altogether.
The neck is encircled with a scant
binding of tuIle that is trimmed with
gold. and similarly trimmed folds out
line the armhole.
A three-piece seit of white Shantung
everything imported almost is in
three-piece form-was charmingiy en-
broidered in the medium blue of old
less wrap.
Especially was the latter made elab-
crate, its square biblike pieces covered
with embroidery front and back.
This embroidery as in many other
cases was made up of intricate braid
ings of narrow soutache set on edge
wise, interspersed with real embroidery
stitches of various sorts.
The waist was more lace-Cluny-
tran material, the white Shantung silk
being inserted in hands and odd shaped
strappings and these were done in the
blue embroidery.
The skirt, a smart pleated affair, was
untrimmed. The girdIe consisted of
three folds of bias silk. a black one
in the center, and the others blue to
match the trimmings.
A favorite design. especially on
dresses of linen. takes the form of
trailing sprays or lines of grapevines
the leaves in the narrow linen SOU
tache set on edgewise. and the grapes
built of big French knots done in
heavy thread.
Filet lace rules this season as Irish
lace did two seasons ago. The square
mesh is the thing and comes i'm many
forms, from heavy coarse bands that
suggest curtain laces to the finest Gre
ations of the cushion and bobbin.
Never was there a time when SO
much attention was given to back
the center back is as universal as the
front of the waist line some seasons
ago. If this line is not, actually short
ened at the back the trimmings are so
arranged as to produce that effect, and
in nine out of every ten costumes some
special ornament is used at the center.
BUTTONS fused purely TO give en-
phasis. to the designs of the gown or
its garniture are in great vogue, and
simulated buttonholes of narrow silk
folds OF cords are a usual aceompan-
iment of these.
Crochet buttons of silk and linen are
to be had in colorings to harmonic
with all the newest shades of the sea-
son. They can also be made up TO
special order.
Buttons of tortoise and other shells
often enriched with gold or mock jew
els are very fetching. and jet buttons
in cut design and also combined with
silver, gilt or rhinestones come in a
great variety of styles. Buttons used
with judgment add tremendously to
the style of any garment that they
suit.
Silk. light weight or satin, chiffon
and cloth are all seen in the different
spring models for evening coats. Cloth
of course, is less expensive than the
others unless deliberately embroidered
or trimmed. but then this material has
been worn more during the winter,