The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1907-06-23
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Write linen coat and skirt suits look
best untr.mmed. when they form part OF
q mourning outat. and are finished with
neatly tailored cuffs and collars. II is
well. TO have the coats loose as the hnif-
iltting models are apt TO lose their shape
when Numbered. The skirts may be plat
ed according 30 the fancy OF the wearer
or may be OF circular shape with broad
hem susmounted by several rows or
stitching. II less expensive material
than linen Is preferred. Indian.head cot
ton makes very good substitute. For
Jumper frocks, ionsdale cnmbr!cs In the
thicker qualities are excellent The para
sol carried with these froeks should be
OF white linen or pongee. absolutely plain
and over q white frame work.
white serge. English and sicill!eune
srsts and heack coat7 are severely tailor
ed and provided with detachable collars,
cuffs and pocses-naps Of dull silk. These
garments should invariably be unlined
SO that they may be readily Numbered.
For seaside use they VIII be found most
serviceahie.
White crepe gowns for ceremonious oc-
casions are made up in precisely the
same manner as are those OF black crepe.
The skirts are usually long and slightly
trimmed with bias bands, and the waists
aTe high-necked and long sleeved. ns dur
Ing the first periods OF mourning 1t Is
IlOt CDUslueCtl s,OCU " thS
arms and throat. Many women, however,
prefer white voile to crepe, In which case
the skirt may be trimmed with SIX gradu-
ated folds OF white crepe aud the waist
with large and small folds.
Black and white or white and black
constitute second mourning. The various
black gowns may then be relieved by
white accessories and the white by black
ribbons. at this period all the dotted
and striped India silks are available, but
not a SIRED of lace or embroidery as
garnishing.
Black chiffon makes n comfortable warm
weather evening gown made simply with
deep tucks or deep rutfies about the bot
tom of the skirt. Dull ribbons may be
set upon the waist In rows. relieved by
entire deux or tiny tucks. the same idea
being carried out In the elbow sleeves.
Fine black musllns are the next and
practically the only transparent substi-
tute for chiffon us black lawns nearly
always fade into green or grayish hue
and scarcely pay for their making.
Tailored shirtwaists can be made OF
either butchers or fine linen. They look
We'll In surplicc style or With broad box
plaits front and back, or with V-shaped
neck, the right side buttonlng far over
the left finished with u colnr similar TO
that on mans waistcont. the space at
the throat filed in with tucked muslin
en- nilSelte. AllucTt GSs'SuSN IL
mourning are of plain fine lawn. laid in
multitudnocs fine tucks, bands and hem
stitched edges. Or they may have turn
over collars and turnback cuffs, finished
with rows OF stitching and slightly
starched, and during second mourning
black tic may be knotted under the
collar Some OF the tucked waists are
diversified by rows of hemstitchins,
either black or white. between the tucks.
and again only the collar aud cuffs are
so treated.
When 1t Is necessary to lift the skirt
great care should he taken not to display
a petticont OF contrasting nue.. During
first mourning the petticont should be or
lusterless silk or of thick lawn, and for
second mourning, black and white stripes
or checks. or plain black with whltS
plplngs.
Because 1t Is deemed unsanitary ana
also Injurious TO the eye the long crepe
veil is rapidly losing ground. Yet whether
1t be Of gnuze or thick chiffon its crepe
border denotes to the Initiated me pre-
else stage of the wearer's grief Eor ne
first three months n Widows veil carries
IN Inch border, the next three halfinch
border, and thenceforward decreases IN
width until t is merely Il piping, After
the crepe borderel veil Is thrown back
over the hat, the face veil Is OF hsh-net'
Chiffon or Brussels, aud need not nave
border.
The hat worn beneath the veil Is OF
slight Importance, aud may be OF crepe,
chiffon, silk muslin or horsehnir When
the veil is discarded fine straWs trimmed
with lusteress ribbons, net and chiffon
are correct. and for knockabout use 10 the
country the coarse straw win qullls or
the white canvas sailors With lusterless
bands.
Black ana white suede gloves are COR
rect for first mourning, and In warm
weather those of suede silk, which wear
well and lnunder satisfactorily. During
second mourning the same kind Of gloves
may display contrasting stitchings and
buttons
Supplementary cuffs and collars are OF
dotted anu plain Swiss, net and lawn.
They have broad hens aud ono tuck or
tiny tucks In clusters, or are merely hem-
Stitched.
3Handkerchiefs, like wells, mark tho
period of mourning by their border.
Pocketbooks aud handbags come In LUIS.
5erless Kid and alligator, with clasps nnd
framework TO match. A silver or sold
purse Is incorrect for the first few monthn
of mourning,