The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-11-10

gNA AAsNtAa NAAAAA ~ -
~ he thought OH those dark sleeping
closets carefully hidden from sight during
the day by painted or carved doors. smooth
English mats on the ioor augmented the
impression Of n~eatness.
The habituAl drink OF tho people Was
small" or thin" beer. The Delft beer
was still exported 20 the other provinces
OF the Netherlands. In the first half OF the
seventeenth century tea would be found
almost exclusively in the apotheoary shops.
where 10 was prescribed as a panaOea, but
about 1890 10 came into fashion az a drink
after the example of Paris, 10 soon became
: for women what coffee was TO be- later
and what tobacco had been from the begin
ming OF the century for the men. Tobacco
sucking from the long guda pipe might
he called "a masculine habit about the
middle OF the seventeenth century, and
tobacco houses" were In high favor. for
men smoked but little at home, n AZ
most ON tho stoop before the houso. The
Franco-Spanish custom OF taking snuff
penetrated rapidly into Dutch parlors.
The ordinary breakfast Of the citizen
in easy circumstances was bread and
butter. with milk or beer. To have put
butter and cheese on the table at the same
time would have been deemed supertiuous.
The peasant drank buttermilk; sweet
milk WAS for the Inhabitant OF the city
and was peddled early in the morning.
or the midday meal. even al II o'clock.
the principal dish was soup. with peas and
beans ae tho chief Ingredients or cabbage
and bacon. Butchers meat was Con-
sumed comparatively little. Forks were
In fashion only among tho upper CLASSES;
the citizen. sven though well on. ate with
his fingers. Supper. which like breakfast
consisted mostly OF bread ana butter.
was eaten toward bedtime. although
among the more opulent people IL bad
been enlarged into a now repast. About 10
o'clock the old fashioned citizen wen TO
bed; often indeed he would retire earlier.
BY the middle of thu seventeenth century
a tendency 10 extravaganza in dress be-
gan 20 show itself in Holland. A quantity
OF ribbons and bows adorned ths costumes
Of the women in the French fashion. Stif
corsets fans. diamond haiRpins. gold and
coral necklaces, earrings and bracelets. per-
fumes. hair dyes. cosmetics and patches
made their appearance. 20 the vexatiOn Of
the old fashioned mothers and Of the
preachers, who often raised their voices
against the extravaganza which had caused
tho loss Of Hollands ancient fame for plain
| r9nDOCIADiNVy. NO loss Ire WHh ArOuscu
by Ghe fine Lace collars the -sloping. plated
ruff. pride Of all the peasants.' SAYS Huy-
Rens-folded, indeed. less srihIy. since the
end OF tho Sixtesnth century, but not less
richly ornamented, and in the middle Of tho
seventeenth worn in broad folds around
the neck over a remarkably low Cut dreas.
by lace cuffs about the wrist. pretty leather
or silk gloves, numberless jewels. burden
L.. -. .Sg~o p.-y-v awohroSl.NAA aNnnw-
ings and red heeled shoes.
The costume OF thu man was much less
e~xtravaGant, although here, too, French
fashions began 20 make themselves felt
more and more among the wealthy class.
The round felt hat with broad, flexible brim
Of old times was giving way 70 the small
Swedish head covering, with narrow brim.
! TO the Polish cap, to hats Of round or pointed
/ crowns, with modish ribbons, plumes and
tufts Of feathers, such as only tops had worn
at first. The short clipped natural hair
OF the time Of Prince Maurios was be-
coming old fashioned In comparison With
the long and curly locks Of the younger
men who had adopted the fashions OF big
wigs. The whilom sober mantle OF black
cloth over a modest black doublet, adorned
only among the rich with gold or silver but
tons, became gradually brighter and finer
in stuff and color, and was soon replaced by
the fashionable silken mantle, while the
doublet, now slaShed and trimmed with gold
lace, was Of costly velvet, silk and satin, and
the stiff linen Spanish collars and sleeves
had, since The time of Prince Frederick
Henry, made way for all sorts Of French
lace work. while the rings and bracelets
encircling hands and fingers also gave evt-
dence Of refined luxury. The breechee,
decked with ribbons and bows, slashed and
pulled w in the French manner. vexed old
fashioned people. who in the laced flap
| ping, catered small clothes Of the younger
men saw Incorporated the frivoity and
w~ickednees Of their century, aud shunned
the dangerous appearance OF enemiDacy
and immortality presented a. they thought
by the borrowing OF fashions for men from
the dress of women. The gilded swords
Of State, the cosmetics and patches used by
the handles, the red stockings, expensive
| garters, elegantly buckled. high heeled
shoes. perfumey and hair powder became
more and more the fashion for men. In
| these things men vent oven further In the
| Netherlands than in France, where the
young Louis XIV. had set an example OF
simplicity in dress 10 the court and issued
placsrds against e~xtravagant splendor, 30
that the Dutchman and the German in Paris
we're recognizable by the lace and ribbons
| of their costumes and consequently we're
openly laughed at.
IN the Netherlands the country people
retained generally the old national dress
and the captains and sailors still wore the
great bsggy breaches of the ancient time.
In the cities. On the other hand. men Of the
middle class began more and more to imi-
tate the elegant costume Of the opulent.
The pamphlets of tho day repeatedly ad-
verted to tradesmen and storekeepers. who
went abou dressed like "banbereta- and
decorated their houses like bur9omasteTs.
Sensible people. however. in the Neither
lands AS elsewhere. began TO comprehend
he hurtfulness Of the growing extrRva-
! gance, and not only Ministers of State
and writer's denounced it but the mu-
nicipal authorities commenced thinking
Of renewing the old statutes against ex-
! Cessive luxury at weddings and Heasts
in dress and costly things, and even set
about making new regulations. Measures
were demanded for preventing the ~gnawing
poverty that threatened the needy when
the necessities OF life grew dearsr. In the
trying time OF the war between the Neither
lands and England poverty rose 90 a critical
height among the Dutch working class.