New-York tribune., 1907-07-14
IN ITALIAN STREETS.
Striking Contrasts in heterogeneous
Life Tbronging Them.

streets OF Naples-the real streets where the
people live, not The new broad modern"
streets built for views and hotels to hold
foreigners-can ever again think NJ street
a mere passageway, a convenience for stringing
buildings on or for driving through. Enough 90
that feacy. a street is place to live in follow
ones trade in to rear ones family in and ar
range ones toilet in, place to dance and sing in,
10 mourn and 70 pray IN. 10 fight and 10 gamble
I'm. to cook and to eat in All times of day TO
the onlooker alike animated and interesting II
is never so early or so late that the street cocks
hraziers are not aIght or that he himself with
the easy gestures Of perfect competence. IS not
stirring IN that great communistic copper kettle
whose shining decoration Of brass birds fishes
he has himself designed the delectable hot com
pounds that his neighbors buy from him in such
bulk as they can afford What 4 simple and
happy solution u is of domestic problems and.
In spite of the only too obvious defiance Of clean
illness or hygiene. how tantalizingly good they
look and smell, those savory stews and bubhling
red brown sauces, The street cook knows his
trade
can there really be hungry people in Naples.
the foreigner wonders. can the beggars ever
need The soldi they clamor for. with so much 10
est in even the poorest quarters Every step
or Two in however tattered a neighborhood. you
will come upon a booth sounningly arranged -
delight the eve with its n7assed orange carrots.
scarlet peppers green salad stuffs. or countless
varieties Of yellow cheeSes while YOU walk.
YOU CONSTANTLY meet wagons laden with food
stuffs. or pedestrian vegetable vendors. Of DE-
nNerate and careless mien. with long garlands
Of copper and silver onions. OF Of chesfnuts'
strung effectively about their necks
IN one street group Of men are sitting under
q shelter, making wooden shoes with hand tools
in cheerful ignorance Of the existence of ma
chimes and factories In the next. women are
spinning or making lace. In one dim inclos'
Afp
per and brass pioruresquelv hammered into
feinE Here is an open square. where rag
talr Is being held, an open ar JUNK sl!.F -
gay color and excessive anlmaton- VI IL YOU
come To a region where foreigners are likely 70
pass. here is a long hight of steps-a form which
IN Naples the street is more likely than not 10
assume brilliant with rnassed flowers. which
the women arrange and sell Here side street
Is filed with sprawlinE. shouting bows rlallhg
mora There you will q shrine. overbur-
dlned with tawdry testimonials Of piety. before
which a group Of men and women are awaiting
In the street too. the public scribe fulfls his
ancient office. Quite properly. he Is old ana
- qrded. and maintains silent dignity II YOU
could send a letter 10 your sweetheart, or ~
self should be expert in the troublesome art.
when few coins VIII buy from this learned
public servant a sheet fun Of eloquence. couched
IN whatever strain YOU may desire
rs for the women. those who have no trades
- follow arc tending their beautiful and never
poeyish babies. or in an entirely sociabe and
;.isflrelv manner washing the family linen, or
80 according 10 their custom this is quits
--,,.~,,- ruh1iO function rom hing ana smooth
Ing each others haIr into that sleek japanese
couture which IS not Homogeneous with their
smooth round faces. or they are pravine or
being made love 70. or gOsslping
Nor is i possible % picture the streets ~
<aples without tho merry merchants Of popu-
lar songs. who sing their wares by way ot at
,-~+fue -7,Irr sare. or the heggars who thrust
tain the price of vour compassion. or the dcH-
KEYS patient overworked. III treated, or thH
cat IS not 70 he ignored -avoiding di0CulnNs
rith successsuI slyness creeping unchallenref
!uto the very churches for ~" repcs" and qn'''
30 cther Italian citv-urless il be Venice.
which has no etrAets'-is as rich in street
srenes At the sama time. all Italy is more o.
less IN outdoor spectacle You might cOnceiva
.l,- Obtain a fairly complete impression or ltaL-
ian character and customs without NnCe seeing
@ domestic interior Apart from her art Vh0
.r.cr thinks of an interior in Venice And even
n their greater reserve and modernity, ~"
streets Of Rome and Florence ara still VIVID
with memorable epectaCles Richly picturesque
or5 suggestive ara tha troops Of sernina rists IN
their scarlet. black or blue. their active Young
legs swinging aTkwardlv, as Yet Tlfhlh fh@lr
narrow CIingtng skirts. their crude. earnest,
hoyish faces. innocent as Vet of "oolNsastoal
expressions or the groups of mustachNd army
officers tho very swing impossible except u
Iatirs-of their immaculate blue caps Dc
t,E-a7fe that ccrsct tOusness of superiority which
The soldier worship of military country makes
IN irfel1'gfhla Il not a rational phenomenon
black shrouded softly shod figures. Who SUI
denly and silently bring before YOU IN the brlgh'
hro,cn streets Of Florence decked with their
thousand daTodis IF late winter or early
zt-frg the sornhrA image II death With strong.
silent strides these men Of the Nieericordia hear
.fcir black burden - its grave, according 10 fh9
bcnefcer+ custom of centuries
~ IN arv italian citv. there Is always your
Modern Corso where brilliant afternoons Wit
7ess an endless linc of srnartly stepping horses
and open carriages or. In FlorHnre. thlS al
vr7v- diverting spectacle is ono of the allure
r7eats of The ALWAYS lovely Cas6lnH. whose mos
beautiful driveway is appropriated ~ q 'eF1ai.
49, ~ the dav h- tho FlOTerrine world of
fashion abscrb brgly occupied IN presenting a
stilIiy correct EngHsh app"arahCT. 1li mn, Oh.
7-,.ioTe as its own apdoEs 70 the blue Arne
nth its groups ~ black poplars against q Vel
~ sky which faces them. For its eHhiniji3l
% bland complacenoN mis- scene Is ,li
A1rerior II that 10 be witnessed on the flnCia !.
ri, in Rome within whose awkwardIy nrl@f
circuit The Roman world elects 70 drlTe aall.
I'D -rpera cctncidantly, the lesser world taxes
.sa ooqsoa i7 he chill afternoon sunshine. listens
.o = lively and and watches confidently foT
glimpse or maiestH 49,
Frnon its very outer surface, SO 10 speak mo
.,cGar- r+afian -itv Cfrcrs the most eciTying
rortrasts between simplicity and sophisticauon.
0isregarding altogether the countless sHlal,er ,
tou-ne and cities where the lapse or 'F,l'uiie
ts e,1b1inlell, overlooked the great world cite.
themselves are not without their PASSAGES W
u1edirval life. In Siena you shaiI sec si.s
1+ro,- er,ootb checked women washing clothes
ct the great stone fountain IN FlSa' S'tdlE'I |
tacked girls bearing copper jugs on 'llelr ht'Is
20 hn them in the pubic square q "4lS ~
,he, perform with as easy ana sfacFl., u,
-1asaIc serenity as If they were posing TOT anna
,a5e,r7a or Sir Frederick Leighton. ana IN Rome
on the calm summit of the Avenfine picturesqusz
MD mon wind twine by the most prlHiuEe az"
lotorio,,e method and rIthout trace or ser
.ooecio,eness even when tourists baIefac"diy
boIt and admire them; while on me same
1av II is likely you may meet IN 'he l'oIll. nt.
P1azza di Spaena an ultra -sophisncatNd mn! InIs
:, 4ye clad in spurious peasant costume. win
,a,n,,la+ed tatters who brazenly attempts. ~
dpft nOseEaN
,oI oI,- "a tvrest from you its eXtortionate
llIrbI IlII- -, - -. ~ m ornament OF mperla !