The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-06-16
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
BY EDITH RAYMOND.

New York, June 15.-Pique and heavy
linen deliberately embroidered or braid
ed, or both, is one of the newest fin
ishes for thin lingerie gowns such as
dotted Swiss. etc. The heavier material
forms a hem for the skirt and bred
telles, bib front or fichu drapery for
the bodice in variations of the effect
popularity known as the Jumper"
Ever since dress fabrics lost their
body and became supple to the point of
fiimsiness, the weighing of skirts with
bands of a thicker material has been
looked upon with favor. Every one Is
familiar with the idea carried out in
cloth and gauze or even lace. Without
some such resource a skirt with no
weight of it's own to speak of does nO-
follow the lines of the average figure
as a graceful skirt is required to 10.
Especially with the woman with an
ounce too much flesh on her hips it is
important that the skirt be drawn we'll
down and not stand out from the fig
ure, as many of the textures of the day
are inclined to do. Dressmakers have
been using weights freely in the hens
of plain skirts, although ins~the very
wide skirts, such as the plated ones,
where a great deal of material is used,
there is apt to be weight enough with
out resOrti1g to hem trimmings or
other devices. The bands that trim so
many jaunty walking skirts serve this
purpose well.
Another of the seasons innovations IS
the craze for linen and Dique shoulder
coverings with the thinnest lingerie
gowns. With white ones pale tinted
linen or pique are in demand. They are
literally the handsOmest ones. incrust-
ed with neeedlework in the shape of
embroidery soutache braiding or lace
insets- As to their shape they are as
various as the designs of the tailors or
drcssmakers who get them up. Little
Louis coats take uD a new added
quaintness when their traditional
sleeves are replaced by those of the
kimono shj, pc.
Among the wraps capes and dolmar
shapes prevail.
The counters devoted yearly to little
jackets are doing a rushing business
this season. OF little coats and caDes
they have laid in an assortment such as
has not been seen before for many sea-
sons, and among the STYLES one finds
the long used bClero in all of its up-to-
date phases, with its new sleeves of al
legged, if not faithful, kimono style.
Even the Madeira Islanders have
been devoting themselves to these
Jackets, and have sent host in their
typical eyelet patterns. Real lace jack
cts among which filet. real or imitation
holds conspicuous place: linen. pique
and lawn, all more or less elaborate
with lace, embroidery or braiding, are
to be seen for the asking
In the needleWork departments such
diminutive jackets of fine or heavy
linen or lawn stamped for embroidery
are also provided.
The vogue for cutaway coats has
brought with il the renewed popularity
of waistcoats, and these are made in
linen and pique. One must buy a suit
that is accompanied by such an access
sorry or have it made to order, for the
ready-to-wear departments are not
provided with them as yet. Striped
linen is one of the favOrite materials
for the purpose, and khaki-colored linen
is being used by persons who always
affect a bizarre style.
As spectacular style as has come to
light i'm many a day is that of making
little French shaped coats of cretonnc.
bordering them with plaitings of taffe-
ia. and wearing them with pretty sea-
shore get uDs. This is an OutCrOD OF
French watering places
An attractive costume worn by
fashionable mother in making a call re-
Gently combined with two-tone gray
striped gown and plain gray silk coat
The skirt was made straightwise of the
cloth. except in the plated front panel,
where the stripes were bias. The bodice
appeared to be of gray filet net with
yoke of white lace, but only the front
showed through the open fronts of the
wrap. The coat came well below the
hips-abOUJ half way to the knees-and
was q straight plated affair all around,
including the bell sleeves, which fell
below the elbows. The edges of the
coat were finished with an embroidered
hand. in which soft old rose and green
shades prevailed. The hat was of green
straw, a cloche shape, trimmed with
two tones of delightful green ribbon
and cherries. Take it all in all, it was
a beautiful spring get up.
Piaids and stripes enter into the
fashionable tailOr-made in more ways
than one which recall old-time effects
For example, a trig blue serge suit all
ready for its summer outing had a box
plated skirt at the bottom of which
there is shaped a f1ounced effect of bias
plaid cloth. This is headed with three
wide tucks. The coat. which is sort of
giTdled as a blouse. has a shawl cape
that just falls over the top of the
sleeves in a point and just below the
bust in points. This. too, is of the bias
plaid cloth. This cape is fitted at the
neck and shoulders with plaits.
A lovely gown at an afternoon we'd
ding last week was of white silk wolfe
The skirt had a green silk band en-
broidered with roses near the hem, bur
was otherwise plain. The coat was of
the mauve-colOred silk, trimmed around
the cutaway fronts and bottom, the
collarlesS neck and the kimOno sleeves
with bands of the same embroidery.
The vest vas of frilled Valenciennes
lace.
When the big round lace veil came
over here last winter it was received
with little favor and was quickly re-
placed by the big square veil. But now
the tide has turned in Paris, and the
parasol veil, as IT has been dubbed, is
all the rage. 1t is perfectly round, has
a deep border and is wide enough when
falling lOOOse to drop we'll down to the
shoulders. 1t is put right over the top
of the hat and caught in a graceful
drapery at the back. with either little
jewelled hook and eye sewed TO the veil
or fastened with fancy pin.
The butterfly is much used motive
and has quite put the peacock feather