The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-06-09
LONDON FASHIONS.
BY MAY DAWSON.

discarded IL ana Tor tneif ASCOT
dresses will adopt the opposite ex-
treme in modes, the sleeve that ex-
tends to the knuckies.
One compromise between the two,
and one only, they allow in the out-of-
door dresses they are making and that
is the sleeve that ends at the wrist,
where the fulness is hidden beneath a
goffered frill of lawn or taffeta called
the grandfather" after the short skirt
ruffles it resembles.
Killed by kindness" is the epitaph
that should be written for the elbow
sleeve, which has been too widely pop
ularized to suit the exclusive. Its vogue
has been so immense that il has been
responsible for a glove famine, but
with long sleeves will be reinstated
the one, two and three-buttoned glove
of past times.
Favor has been consistently with
held from the short sleeve for day
time wear by the royal family of Eng
land, and many of the best dressed
women have forbidden their modistes
to serve ii up with their frOcks. owing
to their realization of the unsuitability
of bare arms at the breakfast table
Custom which has legitimized the at
tenuated sleeve for evening wear has
been unable to make it equally unac-
ceptable for daytime hours.
The Rejane sleeves, now so fashion
able, which cover the arm and hand
even TO the knuckles. is exceedingly
becoming 20 the hand which it refines
and beauties. 1t also makes a good
setting for the display of handsome
rings ard pretty bracelets. AS lace and
lawn are prone to fall back from the
hands and disturb the symmetery of
the arrangement, an elastic band is
! invisibly placed around each thumb in
order that the mitten may be kept in
! the correct position.
The year 1907 will be memora BILE in
the annals of dress for the gigantic
millinery worn by women. The hats
that are astonishing Paris at present
deserve to be put upon the list of long
forgotten items of attire for which
sumptuary laws had TO be passed so
their menacing eXaggeration might be
met and fought under
Far beyond the bounds of decorum
/ went the pointed shoes of one period
the high ruffs of another and the high
wigs of a third. To the quartette may
now be added, unless the good taste
of femininity supervenes, the immense
/ ly broad and OVer-decorate ted, huge
| bTimmed and extraordinarily feath-
cred hats of the present moment.
One seen at the races the other day
near Paris was the cynOsure of all ewes.
as II wedreT evidently meant il to be
/ Made in the mushroom or I.ambaIle
style, ii was covered with pleated tat
fetas and was decked with two enor-
nous plumes stiffened so that they
reared their height straight above the
crown of the hat. So far as could be
! judged the feathers were quite half a
yard i'm length, and the effect produced
was not only amazing, but most unbe-
COMING
In addition to the Dlumage a huge
rose was pressed into the service. one
of the cabbage kind. made of glace silk
a material now applied to millinery
flowers, and when in addition to the
blossom from which the feathers
sprang is mentioned a second poised
beneath the brim. and over and above
that pins of a gigantic size made of
! iridescent glass and a froth of tulIe
are added. il will be conceded that the
mass of adOrnment. sO-called a hat
was of a most eccentric and alarming
style.
one prevalent characteristic this hat
completely lacked; it did but add to its
/ eccentricity. 1t had no cachepeigne
whatsoever and was worn fiat upon the
head. The hair showed in front. but
was almost hidden at the back by the
brim, which fell nearly on the shoulders
of the wearer. and was there wreathed
with A single ostrich feather that
draDed the throat
Many of the new hats that are seen
in London now look as if they had
been put on the wrong way, because
the chief length of the brim a. the
| back instead of at the front and COM
pletely hides the hair falling over the
shoulders just as a dustman's hat brim
does. new hat pin has been invent
ed for those brims. made like a safety
pin with a high ornamental bar across
the top. II is used to fix the brim on
the hair
But in Paris another extreme is IA
vOred. The brim stretches straight out
at the back in the most fy-away man
ner, shading the hair completely,
though in front there is no brim at all
and the hair is left fully in view and
most deliberately dressed. Such mil
linery looks as if in imminent danger Of
falling off the head, but ii is cleverly
secured by pins hidden beneath the
brim and among the trimming outside
of it. 1t is modish to show no pins
with such q model.
So perfervid are the smart Paris
iennes on the subject of this latest
form of millinery that they are paving
huge sums for their hats. as well they
may, considering the wealth of plum
age and other things bestowed there
upon; indeed, in the words of one au-
thority. more is being spent upon a
single hat than upon a whole dress, -
which is good for the milliners. but
not for the costumiers.
In their choice Of plumage the French
milliners are again giving rein to their
present delight in ecCentricities One
hat of stupendous width, made of
brown straw. shows not only the mer-
est hint of the brim, since all Of the
rest of the chapeau is covered with
plumage splayed upon the crown and
made 10 lie quite fiat. Wing feathers
are used of two colOrs. mahogany and
| blue, and ever all blue veil with
chenilie-wrOught edge is slung back
ward 10 flow down the sides of the hat
and down the back of the wearer
The great millinery sensat ton of the
summer will, however, be the pure
white peonies with punches Of white
cotton grass, these being artistically
arranged in clusters on emerald straw
hats. Another important fancy is that
of lining the straw hats with colored
taffetaS to match the flowers which are
used as the trimming In the case of
Manila straw lined with peach-coI-
Ored pink silk, the trimming consisted
of half wreath of peach blossom,