The evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1907-1908, 1907-09-14
EXHIBIT OF
EARLY FALL MILLINERY.

Just at this time of year, when miladi in
all her glory Is grazing the fashionable
summer resorts and with little or no
thought for the future, an army OF workers
here and abroad are turning out new
thoughts and creations to delight the eye of
the feminine population for the coming fail
season, and If the advance French models
are taken as a criterion, hats In general
will be larger, more beautiful and neeessa-
rily more expensive than ever.
Taken In a general way one might say
hat the coming fashions insist on large,
high crownss with wide, others deep, broad,
stiff crowns, while others show a crown
more on the pointed cone order. In trim
mings, a vide scope is allowed and endless
is the variety to choose from.
1t is noticeable that in the simpler hats
the curled quilts are to be used more than
the straight ones, as are also beautiful soft
wings.
Many of the very smart hats are orna-
mented with scarcely anything except the
plumage of the goura bird. AS this form of
trimming is among the most expensive OF
the season and naturally dropping brims,
with here and there a brim slightly rolled
on the left front side and caught with
plumage of some ~favorite bird. In many
cases this plumage is fastened to the hat
by large, fancy pins or buckles.
Hats themselves are shown in felt, vel
vet, cloth, clipped beaver and heavy otto
man silk In all imaginable %colors, with
violet, green, mouse and new Atlantic blue
predominating.
Some If these hats have a Tam
O,Shanter crown, more exclusive, it
might be interesting just here to say that
the goura bird is a native Of south
America and Is about the size of a schiken
with plumage forming II comb just like
- ,op.k Tbfu I'M pn
used on hats for the coming season is in
the natural color which is a blue gray
tipped with a slightly solled yellowish
shade. When placed on a hat 1t has the
appearance of a peacocks tail and is most
attractive.
The cassoWary feather Is another most
expensive trimming, and when combined
with marabout makes a delightful soft
form of trimming,
Very few small hats were shown in the
different houses, and the few on exhibition
in nearly every case were trimmed with a
knot of ribbon and velvet with the nageoir
or coque indian plumage fastened directly
In front with two huge fancy pins which
gives an owlish appearance to the nat.
Among the different importers each has
his net idea of the most important or lead
shade for the coming season. 1t IS
most generally conceded that the peculiar
of violet called the crocus violet Will
lead and next, the various shades OF
green.
After these shades have been settled on
1t is amusing to watch the struggle Ior
in the remaining fashlonaoie
shades. One importer thinks the new At
lantic blue will be very strong. This niue
Is a shade all Its own, being a little Diner
ent from the Alice or other shades near
h shade, inasmuch as there Is inc
faintest tinge Of green In 1t whlch gives
1t the mark of distinction.
where bandeaux are used in hats they
are placed mostly in front, leaving the
hack to droop more closely to the hair,
md IN every case brown maline is used
ne n finish. but not nearly In sucn large
quantities as in former seasons.
IF NAV be Interesting to know 1nae ~
ona NJ the largest importing houses Wus
told that when their representative NJ
,uas I'm Paris all the smart hats welp TRIM
med with huge bows OF ribbon across tne
front. He had occasion to leave ina cts
for a week or ten days when on ms re,
turn great was his establishment 10 nlu
that the ribbon bows had given place 10
tba large Nasuira pompons, and some OF
the advance hats now show TINS FORM VI
rimming which is very attractive.
Long sweeping plumes Of paradise ana
g1lorah will be used very largely during
the season. Goura Is shown In gray ana
white and in all colors, especially In pur-
pie which will be one Of the leading colors.
The cold velvet tone is apparently the most
correct shade, but all puppies are good.
Emerald green is also likely to be very
strongly represented.
Wings are shown in great variety, but
principally in long pointed effects. They
are used very freely on the new models,
sometimes as many as six or eight pairs
being used on one hat.
Feather todues are shown again in a
variety Of new effects, and 1 have seen
some very useful styles made of soft white
feathers with large gull wings and head
for trimmings.
In ready-to-wear hats most OF the models
shown are of a medium size: sailor effects
are very pronounced, and the dropping
brim rolled off the face is also used. The
scarf trimming is again very much to the
fore and a number Of new and novel de-
signs are being shown.-The Millinery
Trade Review.