The daily morning journal and courier., 1907-07-02

made at home-there you are; French gown, and. lbest of all, a dainty comfortable one for next to nothing.
 There is always the cost of launder- ing to be counted upon, and 1t is no small consideration, yet when any of the washable materials are properly done up, which means well starehed, with gasolene, or something equally good, put in to produce a gloss, they keep fresh and dainty almost as long as those fabrics which have to be sent to the cleaners when soiled. Everyone and especially those of us who have to keep the economies in sight, will find either heavy grayish white linen CT tussore an indispensable, suitable for more occasions than any other one cos tune. The gray white is more exclusive than any of the others, and for that reason it is not as readily obtainable; still. it is to be had for a search.
 A costume of exceeding smartness had a skirt laid in clusters of plaits all the way around from narrow front panel, The flare thus given was supplemented by clusters of deep plaits set in just below the knees. The front was embroidered with the main part of the design running up the center and the rest branching off over the seams of the panel. An effect of this sort is always satisfactory, because it demon | strates the fact that it was made to order. The bodice to this costume was | rOi1n6pd of ha dN,se bias band of embroidery and the ki- mono sleeves were made in one piece with it, laid Iii two deep folds and bor- dered with the bias banding. A new note was struck in the introduction of V-shaped pieces of dull blue linen at the shoulders, the waist material cut and turned away, and the two edges laced across with gray white and fin- ished with a tassel.
 There is apparent a decided tendency
 toward the semi-tailored rather than
 the strictly tailored costume Where
 only a year ago we were as much
 bound to the mannish cut of linen suit
 as though 1t were broadcloth, now there
 are little feminine touches cropping up
 eyerywhere-a showing of embroidery
 in the revers, a single line of hand
 work in color, perhaps edging the hem
 on coat and skirt, little triangular
 shaped lnsets of embroidered cloth or
 silk and SO on.
 This point was well Illustrated in a
 certain costume of white serge, The
 coat strongly resembled a mans, but 1, the pockets were faced with blue, and
 at either corner there was piece of
 Oriental embroidery on blue ground
 The skirt was kilted except for front
 panel. which was narrow and plain
 barring two corner pieces set in at the
 hem White serge has regained much ot
 its old-time popularity, by the way, anc
 is as frequently seen as the newer
 rajah and tussore, but they invariably
 have trimming of some sort.
 The fancy for wash gowns, strong a:
 1t is, does not seem to have diminished
 the vogue of the separate blouse, whicl
 has taken unto itself new scope ant
 new beauty. The lingerie waist will al
 ways be the favorite among them, bu
 there is a steadily increasing liking fol
 the tailored and the semi-tailored va
 riety. Of the latter there are attractiv,
 models in figured lawns and dimit,
 which are made with a center plait an,
 either clusters of plaits or else two O three deep ones at either side, the cen
 ter one only being stitched It's entir
 length. Frequently this central plait i
 edged with contrasting color, or i
 may be stitched on both sides an trimmed with small buttons, pearl 0 cloth covered
 The French waist, without sign o garniture, and which, strange to say is so very becoming to slight figures, , being fashioned almost exclusively c
 plain materials, linen and madras be ing first choice. In these very plat , waists 1t Is absolutely necessary tha f they fit perfectly, result not easll , obtainable, considering that there mus be absolute smoothness across the che!
 and yet not too much fullness at tn waist
 , Lingerie waists are showing a gree : deal of butter-colored lace in their cor , lstructlon, and very often 1t is used connection with pure white. One mod, e shows an elaborate scroll design wori f ed out in Yalenciennes crossing a tucl !, ed yoke, the sleeves and the waist a
 edged on the low side with very nal f row scallop. Another model had u . front marked off In four-inch square of nip tucking outlined with bebe Va
 Ianpfnnnae, A 6 q af fpa ,srl,i i. simplicity is said to rule the finger waist of the present, it Is quite as elal n crate, and certainly quite as expensi1 IT. as ever. The design, however, is ofte q much more simple than 1t looks, and a is not cut up by medalions and fril s as it has been.
 e The accessories to a costume are a . ways of importance, but this season u l. gloves, the sunshade, hosiery, an - shoes, the dainty pieces of iewelry, a 2 these seem not to be accessories, bi l. definite parts of whole, and, indee n the are just that Sunshades, for e, V ample, are required to match or at lea
 to harmonlze with the costume. In k certain mauve creation in which Il l. hat, gloves, and shoes were of det il brown, the sunshade was of @ ric n deep green, as was the pocketbook ar h a knot of ribbon on the hat
 n Linen and taffeta parasols alike ha' e. beautiful insettings of lace, are en r. broidered in more or less elaborate d y signs in self color or else in some sol le unaggressive shade. It is a season l. harmonies-no monotony and yet ne IS CT any violent contrasts, Silk glov l. have already largely taken the place le kid, although for all formal occasio le suede is worn. The silk gloves, or t
 Iis1e for tboSa 1.,bo ,,rafar tbo,yz oro