The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-08-18
LONDON FASHIONS.
BY MAY DAWSON.

summer, has asserted its claim for pat
ronage with overwhelming insistence.
and is now all-conquering. At the
fashionable English and French wa
tering places the well-dressed woman
wears white; the English yachts
woman chooses it in preference to any
color; the motorist orders 1t; it is uni
versal. When some color must be in
troduced into the toilette-and it is eff
fective-how does the clever Parisienne
contriVe it? She wears boots and
stockings, a parasol, and feathers in
her hat, all to match. Picture to your
selves the result, and admit that it is
very full of effect.
II is as well not to blink facts; black
stockings are banished to the farthest
outposts of fashions realm, and COL
Ored ones have arrived instead. They,
too, are autocratic. demanding as they
do for their completely pretty setting
colored footgear, not altogether so per-
haps, but of a color mingled with
black. That is why we find black pat
ent leather goloshes with gray, fawn,
green, ruby, and even purple ''uppers"
worn with hosiery of the tints men,
toned. And yet another mandate of
the mode; the "uppers" must be made
Of suede or chamOis leather, not of
kid.
Now, with the white toilettes Of
which 1 have been writing, what cob
ors look we'll? 1 am all for either ma
hogany OF cedar when the wearer is
the happy possessor OF a clear COM
plexion, damask cheeks, and bright
brown or rudy hair. It is an uncom-
mon and wonderfully successful ANAL
gamation of charms. Empire green is
good, and purple is the most modish
choice OF the moment.
The white must be pure if violet be
its companion, and though ivory and
cream are permissible, Il is still the
really blanche shade that with color
looks most delightful. CeTise. too, is
always acceptable at the seaside in
the company of white, especially as a
belt, parasOI and cravat Gray and
white is the favorite excursion into
novelty of the ultra fashionably CARRIED
woman at present.
One of the loveliest of white lingerie
frocks has a fiehu with long ends of
supple gray chiffon taffetaS, and is
worn with q white hat and gray par
asol, finished with a gray stick. The
heavily embroidered white dress IS
conspicuous among its more delicate
fellows, the lingerie gowns with their
finely traced plumetis embroidery, as
elaborate as that upon an infants
the decoration must be coarse or very
fine.
Very handsome is a heavy white
linen gown with equally heavy sun
flower design, wrought in cotton over
a padded background, and most suit
able for river or seaside wear. In 9TH
er cases there is an openwOrk or de-
coupe design as well as the embroi-
derry, brought about by the cutting
away of the background to display a
bold pattern, a course pursued not
only with white, but with cOlOred lin
ems, but most successful in white
There are some exceedingly fascinat-
ing little silk coats. and others of still
more light and airy gauze. literally
covered with the narrowest silk braid,
as well as coats of wooden lace bound
with linen and worn with linen skirts
of their color.
As a light wrap to throw over an
evening dress of an ephemeral charac-
ter. the sleeveless kimOnO boasts many
advantages, among which its artistic
neglige aspect is by no means the
least.
pale biscuit shade of very supple
cloth or taffetas may be employed in
its expression with the large armholes
and fronts outlined by heavy Japanese
embroidery. in which the orthodox
blues and little black are effectively
introduced The back repeats the
loose, easy flow of the pretty fronts.
and the whole wrap demands four and
a half yards OF material to make ii.
The chief feature of the latest tailor
made is the perfectly simple little cut
away coat; very like a mans cut-away
garment, only it is much more decided
in its angles. and is fastened at the
breast with one button only. The roll
collar is faced with thick grain
silk, and the coat simply lined
throughout with soft silk or satin. In
some instances these coats are not
fastened at all. but depend on the per-
lection of cut and fit to give the cor
rect appearance.
The skirts of these costumes are
treated in two ways: they are either
very much gored three parts down,
fitting like skin, and then flare out
very wide round the feet, OF they are
cut in umbrella or circular shape, with
strappings and front panels In the
first case there is no trimming what
ever on these skirts, but each gore is
strap-stitched. In the case of the cir
cular skirt elaborate braidings of SOU
tache are admissible, and the front
panel is very heavily braided, almost
entirely covering the groundwork of
the material For tailor-mades these
are the two prevailing modes of skirts.
II goes without saying that everything
depends upon the cut and hand of
these coats and skirts and a great deal
on the perfect figure of the wearer.
Such absolute simplicity demands per-
lection In every way.
The colOrs most favored for racing
gowns are milk-white, pearl gray,
crushed strawberry, thistle blue bis
cult and fawn shades. In darker coll
ors strong tones will be used. and also
strong contrasts in facing and lining
orange and dark blue, not a navy nor
yet royal, but Just a happy inter-
vening shade that looks delightful with
the right tone of orange used for the
collar The silk underskirt should be
OF the same bright color, and should
be extremely full-frilled. Another
pretty contrast is green and shade of
old red-bordering on old rose, yet ton
ing perfectly with the green. The
sleeves of these tailor coats show a de-
cided tendency to three-quarter length
and more of the mans cut. One or
two, however, are still above the ell
bow, and are decidedly smarter.
As regards evening and dinner
gowns. they will be of the picturesque
type-lOng chngiIg draperies in the
SofteSt of fabrics. some of them nun