The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-05-05
THEY DRINK TURKISH COFFEE
TEA IN SECOND PLACE IN TEE
STUDIOS AT 8 O'CLOCK.


@UN ~ ~ AANAR% @NA-A.(N1 - 49,
Syrian Quarter, Because TO Serve TuFli.
Ish Coffee Properly You Must Have Q
Turkish COnee OUTFIT what It IL Ike.
Turkish coffee is served now instead Of
tea in the studios where men and women
meet every day ct 8 for q chat and roat.
Thu samovar is there, With it's regiment
Of teaoups, but the girl who presides at tbs
tea table has scarcely a thing to do, willis
over in the coffee circle the jesveh IL Kept
constantly on the fire.
And Why, somebody asks, "do,we prefer
ocffeA 70 tea jn the a~fternooni'
One. man explained II along ,ths lines
or Scotch andsrye. IL can drink SCOTCH
day after day for just, so long and then
there, oomes, . time whom 4 have to stop
or change to rye. / change, Of course.
Then after'a while L go back to Scotch.
It's just the same with tea and ooffes. AZ
present we are devoted to coffee, TO real
Oriental coffee. so we all have to learn
how TO make IT,
Tea making lis q feminine accomplish
inent. Codee making ID. one. to which men
take kindly . Is shown by the number
who are spending hours 'inlout Of the way
Syrian shops hunting up genuine Turkish
taktImB. The takum is the TurhGh ooRee
outfit and you must provide yourself with
one II you are going to .eerve oofee b the
Oriental style. "A saucepan and q Gas Jet
won't do.
The Turkish people chose their 0ueer
little coffee cups with. the wisdom that
comes from experience. They are tiny
affairs and hold 90 small a quantity AZ
strong coffee that the visitor who haa a
round of calls TO make In ono afternoon
can drink ooffeei ct each stop vithcut
danger to his digestive organs. IN Turkey
the coffee is served whom the time has ar
rived for the guest to depart. Ths weioom.
ing dish Is m Of preserved rose or orange
flower petals. But the preserves are dis
pensed with here.
The taklm consists Of a carved Turkish
brass tray about IL or Is inches tn diametef
with various symbols decorating the centre
and the rim folded in pie crust fashion.
On the tray belong the jesveh, In which
the coffee Is made;a spirit lamp, q collection
OF sarfs, the coffee box and u spoon.
In jeeveh is n brass bowl with the side
slanting upward until 1t IL about the size ofa
teacup at the top. There is q long handle
at n side put on like a stewpan handle.
1t comes in various sizes and they have besn
bought dow on the lower West Side tor
10 cents. $50
The sarf is the little m etal ~receptacIs
which holds the china or porcelain cup
shaped like an eggshell. One may pay
any price for these, for they are made in
the cheapest metals and also In jewe1lad
gold n silver.
The sarf is without a handle and those
who are unfamiliar with the etiquette OF
Turkish coffee drinking are puzzled at first
to know whether 70 lift sarf and all when
they drink. The real Turkish way IL TO
lift only the china bowl. The sarf is merely
q stand in which to let It rest when not In
use.
The coffee box 10 usually oblong, OF plain
or carved brass, about the size Of a cigarette
Is a partition through the centre crosswis6 TO
divide 1t into places for the pulverized
coffee and the powdered suger.
You put into the tesveh a small teaspoon
full Of coffee and one of sugarf for each cup and
pour over this enough cold water to an che
first few times you viii get the proportions
all wrong, mt after several trials you
will be able to gauge the amounts with
accuracy.
drink depend upon the boiling. and the
Orientals believe that to get the best out Of
the aromatic bean IL must be hoiled three
times. This is the difficult part Of making
coffee after the Turkish fashion, for each
time as 1t boils a thick yellow ream must
rise to the top and remain. The cream IL
considered the best part Of the coffee.
To make 1t properly the jesveh mugb be
held over the alcohol flame 20 give a steady
but not too intense heat, and each time
that the mixture Of powdered coffee and
sugar comes TO q boil the jesveh must ba
drawn from the fame quickly 30 that tins
cream which appears on the top does not
boil over. As soon as. the boiling. has
ceased then the jesveh is held over the fame
cream, which Is quite thick and ROB By
now, the coffee is ready to be poured into
the sarfs.
II perfectly made it lie thick and syrupy,
though not sweet enough to be cloytngs
and the cream will stay on the top; making
II have the appearance Of real cream MIXED
with the coffee,
as IL strong?s you ask. Strong with
the flavor Of coffee II is, but IL is not stronger
than some of the coffee served In restaur.
ants.
An the essence and aromsh have been Pro-
served. Though o may not quite hkB
the flavor the first time II 10 served to you
In Turkish style, before the last sip has been
swallowed you begin to realize that you
the possibilities OF this beverage served, AZ
other times than at breakfast and after
dinner become apparent. .S+r'
Since Oriental coffee has taken q hold on
people over here, the Syrian quarter has
been kept busy supplying takums and
ordering more from home. II necessarily
one can manage to do witbouta real Tufh41h
brass tray and use a Russian or Chinese OUT
fit instead, and IL II como to q pinch, thy
after dinner coffee cups can be substituted
for the real Oriental kind but the 5eBvohb
absolutely essential.