davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-05-25
VERSOS DEL SABAOO
IA GUJTARRA.

Esa calejuea de torcido muIo,
mas bien que una calle semeja una fosa
llena de tineblas, bajo el palio oscuro
de una intermnable noche borrascoSa
Con turbio ref .jo las luc IS dlstantes
alumbrar no pueden su fondo sombrio;
brllan 10 lejos llorosas, temblantes;
parece que, insomnes tritan de frio
FL viento, ese tisico que tose murmura
SIT largo reproche que turba y conmueve,
pasa sacudIendo por la calle oscura
Su capa cubierta de lluvia y de nieve.
A trechos gmendo toca en- las ventanas;
con su mano tr6mula, los cristales hiere,
modula TIL eco de voces lejanas
que luego Ell las sombras agoniza muere
De pronto, borrando las quejas delSviento
Sc eleva un extrafo rumor cadencioso
arm6nco rtmo que imita un lamento
cruza la noche con vuelo angustioso.
Is un are triste neodioso tierno;
IN llanto hecho musica, que puma y desgarra,
es la dolorosa canci6u del invierno
que vibra Ell las cuerdas d. vieja guitarra.
Un ciego la pulsa: con extraho brio
arranca csc hondo Clamor sobrehumano
de aquel instrumental; con su pobre mano
que fustiga el hambre entorpece Ell fro!
Fue acaso un artsta, mas su voz cascade
m un rehe % guarda de las glorias idas,
y Ell vano renueva temblona cansada
oscuro relate de vejas heridas
La gutarra gme, la guitara impora,
sus cuerdas son fbras de I'm alma doliente:
hoy es IN meudigo quien Ia pulsa liora
su vudez de artc dolorosameute
Aquella guitarra, que en- amos mejores
albergo en- sill seno, vlbrante sonoro.
ndadas de mirlos de ruisehores,
cuanlo cntre la DANA de las armonlas
colgaba su cuello casca5eles de orc
e hada ri<u-iIa de las meloiias..
Cuando entire las inaaos dc csc mi,lno dueno,
que TN tempo fue joven, artsta sentido,
cantaba la rubia canci6n del euSuefo
al tocarla el fuego de las seusacioneS,
en- su fragil pecho, todo estremecido,
vibraban sus cuerdas eoslo corazonesl
Aquella guitarra, qae en- jotas brllantes
sacudi6 las alas del placer intense
Goa agiles curvas escorzos galantes,
cuando las morenas de esbelta cntura
con sus grandes ojos de fulgor immense
llenaban la vida del sol hermosura!
Mas pas6 el arrullo de ufanas vihuelas
baio el emparrado pas6 la algeria,
la risa nerviosa de las castahuelas!
Hoy, esa guitarra vibrante canora,
en- la calejuela medrosa sombra
lora, llora, llora!
Alfredo Gomez Jaime.
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-05-25

En Ia ohcina de sThe Cataiio
Building & Tmprovem mt Co, Pll-
"a principal No 33 San Juan, P. R.
Sc dard colocacion q una persona
activa que presente buenas referen-
Gas. 3-2a.
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-05-25

dustrial de Puerto Rico', con el
prop6sito de celebrar varios meetings
industriales.
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-05-25

Lease eI fnteyeStntfSinsO f0Eetf1 La
RELIVA MARGARITA. oue
apa'vce en- las 14gtnGs s. 81
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-03

heavier and more elaborate headgear and
would be warm in the street and comfort,
able to hold in the theater. Moreover, they
might be made most attractive and becom-
Ing. At other seasons of the year lace and
chiffon scarfs are certainly highly suitable
for wear in going to and from the theater.
For colder weather, also, what would be
more comfortable than the kiss-me-Quick
hoods once so popular? These were exceed
ingly comfortable and certainly on a windy
night would be a boon to any woman.
The difficulty. Of course. would be the eff
feet, or rather lack Of effect, in the res
taurant suppers which follow the theaters.
It is then that the hat has its moment of
true glory, almost compensation for its
discomfort at the theater and in going to
and fro But then If women would only
think so they would probably find that it
would be quite as possible to go without
their hats in the restaurant as in the thea
ter However, the women won't probably
think so as this would be in advocacy Of
the simpler fashions which are always go
ing to come in and never do. And If the
great mass of womankind were willing to
submit to the compromise the milliners
would not let us, for, after all, it Is the
milliners and dressmakers who rule us.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-03
Net >D.AIcCT WITH IRISH LACE

be any reason for calling these new models
separate waists when they are trimmed
with, if not made entirely of, the same ma
terlal as coat and skirt; still, they are so
termed, and the term conveys a different
meaning. In gray there are several most
fascinating models that can be worn either
with coat and skirt costume or with skirt
to match Made in yelling, for instance,
the model is most suitable, while in soft
silk or satin it is equally attractive, to be
worn under a coat and with tailored
skirt.
Judging from present Indications, the
fashions this spring are more or less on the
elaborate order, with the exception of the
severely plain tailor costume and the plain
but extremely smart shirt waist. There are
ruffles pleatings, f1ounces and folds Of
satin or velvet, while again lace and en-
brodery play an all important part in most
of the gowns Fortunately. the lines of most
of the styles are good, long and unbroken,
so that the trimming, following these
lines, does not seem SO appallingly over
done and exaggerated. Materials also are
elaborate in design and pattern, but when
figured materials are used there Is not the
same chance for trimming.
The sleeves of the new waists are notice
ably attractive, not exaggerated IN shape
or size; they follow the lines of the arm
and are far more becoming than the sleeves
of last season. The majority reach well
below the elbow, and are finished with the
fiat unlined band of lace. and are also
trimmed with narrow ruchings OF SILK or
lace or with rows of shirring. There is
more than a suggestion of a puff above the
elbow but the trimming lies fiat against it,
or If put around 1t somehow seems to hold
1t in place. The narrow ruchings OF cream
white Valenciennes are a favorite TRIM
ming, and are used with all colors and ma
terials, and, while the fashion is not alb
solutely new, it has certain points OF nov
city about it. The pleatings and ruchings
of taffeta are also fashionable, while one
novel style combines both the silk and lace
often the lace dyed to match the material
Is chosen in preference to white and II this
10 not Incoming then white in collar and
V-shaped yoke with fiat cuffs are used:
In order that the empire style shall not
be entirely neglected the belts worn on the
waists are SO fashioned that they suggest
the style at the back. but in front slope to
the normal waist line. Made of Soft taneta
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-03
fMeROlDERHD CHIFFON NA1Sr

the lined and boned waists of silk, satin,
crepe de chine or chiffon cloth. Oddly
enough, these waists often on exactly
the same lines as though intended to be
worn with skirts to match, and yet there
is an indescribable something or other
about them that marks them separate
waists and not part of a gown, but it must
be confessed to the uninitiated that there
does not appear to be any marked differ
ence, and the economically minded woman
finds reason to believe that the waist can
be worn either with skirt to match or in
contrast.
Theater bodces is the name sometimes
given to these more elaborate separate
waists, and certainly the fashion is a most
practical one, for the palmer style of tailor
gowns to be worn in the spring season is
infinitely more serviceable when there are
two or three waists to wear with the gown.
There may be just hint of the suburban
element of the living near town rather in
it, and the consequent necessity to be more
deliberately gowned if one steps over for
the play, but certainly it is fashionable to
live out of town SO that objection can
easily be met and the smartly made and
somewhat deliberately trimmed waists make
the severely plain gown extremely smart
-
There are more colored waists worn than
last season. AS has before been stated in
these columns, 1t is becoming more and
more the fashion to have a waist that
matches in color the lining Of the coat and
charming color schemes can in this way be
carried out. A simple dark blue serge cloth
or yelling costume can, for instance, be
quite transformed by wearing with it
good-ftting waist Of pale heliotrope green
or lighter shade of blue, and then the
jacket with lining to match the waist.
Shirt waists, called because they are
made loose, are not becoming to every fig
ure, in fact are most unbecoming to stout
figures. These fitted waists are conse-
quently better in many instances, and
while the lining fits close the material IT.
self can be draped softly and loosely in ac-
dallions and entre-deux of lace are favorte
trimmings, or there are ruchings or plait-
ings Of silk or satin put on in an innumer-
able variety of designs and figures. All
kinds Of lace are fashionable for the trim
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-03
A Fashionable Word.

There is a new word hurled at the woman
who shops. 1t has percolated down through
the grades of decorative art until IT has
reached the realms of the ready made"
Good is the adjective of restraint which
is unreservedly applied to everything which
has shape, design, line or color scheme. II
it is a soft little neglige and you ask the
price of it, the salesgirl let's you pass on
by remarking that 1T is good" If it is 9
petticoat, and you remark that the color 70
pretty, she says: Eyes, it is good" II 1t Ia
blouse it is good if it is hat 1t IL
good" and If 1t is a coat or waist In which
you detect attractive lines she says: That
is awfully good
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-03
Big Carnations Of shakespeare's Time.
From the St. Louis Globe Democrat.

From the st. Louis Globe Democrat.
An Olive street florist says that we pride
ourselves nowadays on the size OF our
carnations, but the florists of 800 years
ago grew carnations three to four inches
across. as large as any that we see, and
thought nothing Of 1t.
"An through Spain, southern France and
Italy, the carnatiOn Is the favorite flower
and has been for hundreds Of years, but
along the Mediterranean there are few
glass houses, for in protected situations
and on southern slopes of hills even deli
cate flowers grow outdoors all winter long
and bloom as freely at Christmas as in
July.
1.-THE big carnations, however, were not
grown in Spain or Italy. but In England,
outdoors. during the summer time and be-
fore glass houses were known. They may
have grown just as large carnation flowers
In Spain as in Eng land at that time, but in
England there was record made OF the
fact and also Of the size, while In Spain
there was not. Shakespeare mentions car
nations and gilly flowers, or July flowers,
together as blooming at the same season,
which shows that the carnation was then
summer flower. whereas in our green
houses II Is now winter bloomer. The
carnation of Shakespeare's day must have
had very short stems, for they grew out
of doors. How the florists of those days
treated the plants to obtain blooms OF such
size nobody knows, for old-time florists
grew flowers instead of writing books
about them; SO all we know is that they
had very large carnations in Queen Eliza.
beth's time. without knowing how thsy
were grown.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-03

~ TRONG contrasts are to be noticed
in the fashions of the moment, and
both severe and elaborate styles
~ are displayed, each being stated
positively and on the best author
ity to be the only one possible. But the
day has passed when any one fashion can
be thus asserted, for every woman who
knows anything about clothes knows that
there Is always variety of choice, and
that while for short time the majority of
women may follow blindly some order of
Dame Fashion, In the twinkling Of an eye
the order may be reversed and an absolute
opposite fashion be insisted upon.
Waists are all important to the feminine
peace of mind, and the question of whether
separate waists are fashionable is contlnu-
ally discussed-incidentally 1t is never posi-
lively settled. Eight or ten years since
the edict went forth that the separate waist
was no longer smart, that skirts and waists
must correspond, if not in texture at all
events in color and general style, and from
that time to this separate waists have
reigned supreme in favor until this win
ter. This direct dlsobedience of a law of
fashion is most unusual, but there are
other instances Of 1t, and. as usual, the
compromise is effected by having both
waists to match the skirts and separate
ones as well. In an elaborate costume,
cloth, silk, velvet, or In truth any material,
the waist to match is far and away more
effective and becoming, but to wear with
coat and skirt costume. the separate waist
is apparently the favorite.
At this time of year the advance models
for the street gowns are to be seen, and, as
during the so-called slack season, 1t is pos
sible to have street gowns made at
marked reduction IN price from when the
season is at its height Separate waists are
much more In evidence than earlier or
later, and this is capital opportunity to
select the most becoming styles and have
them made.
There Is no end of different designs and
materials among the unlined waists in
lingerie linen, plain and embroidered,
we'll as silk, satin, crepe de chine lace and
net. but especial attention is being paid to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-03

little girl wore a hat of white felt trimmed
with a white and green wreath. IL was a
broad, low-crowned affair of smooth french
felt.
the little hostesses were attired in fanciful
little afternoon costumes. The most elap-
crate of these was made OF corai coioreo
cloth The skirt. very short ana narihg,
was finished with two tucks. Above this
was a band of scallop embroidery simulat-
ing an overskirt. The embroidery was done
in much deeper coral 80
The waist was a blouse with a bolero
over IT, The blouse and sleeves were or
the same material, a fine embroidered SILK
muslin in pale ecru. The sleeves were Iuii
short puffs finishing above the elbow The
blouse. very full, was finished in front with
a hox pleat on either side of which was
knife pleating.
The bolero, short and sleeveless, was
made of the coral cloth, the upper part be-
ing shirred and the lower part plain and
match the skirt. The bolero had bands
across the shoulders buttoned down in
front and back. A turnover collar almost
as large as a sailor collar and of the
material of the blouse finished the neck. 1t
was embroidered around the edges and I'M
ished with knife pleating. The costume
had a stiff, deep belt made Of velvet the
color of the embroidery, and fastened In
front with a big square pearl buckle.
Another of the little hostesses wore
most effective costume. 1t was or ivory
yelling, trimmed with bands or deep piue
silk. The very short skirt laid In box
pleats had a panel down the front.
broad band of the silk bordered the bot
tom of the skirt, not. however, going
across the box pleat The top of the skirt
was finished with yoke which EXTENDED
into what was practically a princess belt
This was separated from the skirt proper
by broad band of the silk going all the
way around.
The long blouse was cut away in front
over a chemisette of alloyer embroidery
The blouse plain across the shoulders, was
laid In pleats at the waist line. Bands of
the silk extended from the armholes Of
the costume to the waist line, sloping to-
ward the front. These bands were bor-
dered with pleatings of the material and
with narrow lace. The front edges Of the
were made into buttonholes. which were
laced with crushed pieces Of the silk. which
were tied together and hung In long ends
at the bottom Of the blouse. The short,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-03

or satin ribbon. these shaped belts are most
becoming to the figure and add greatly to
the smart effect of any form or waist, but
are not appropriate II the waist is to oe
worn with a plain cheviot or tweed coss
tune. The only correct waist then is tho
plain shirt waist.
To wear with the plain black or dark
blue cloth or serge costumes which are SO
smart and useful. a most attractive style
Of waist is made in a crepe de chine or
chiffon cloth, trimmed with narrow pipings
or folds of taffeta. Either the chenisette
of lace or lingerie, with cuffs to match,
finishes the waist, or 1t is worn with one Of
the new jabots or ties that are SO popular
this season. Crepe de chimes and chiffon
cloth are excellent wearing materials, and
for the many times when a dark waist Ia
required with a plain costume there ID
nothing so satisfactory, and it is possible
to obtain quite a variety of design In the
trimming of taffeta. Velvet ribbon can be
used for the trimming Also but 1t is by no
means so practical the silk.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-03

At the back of the bow the garland hung
down In several loops below the ear.
Still another headdress suitable for wear
in box at the opera or the theater, as well
as In the audience, was made of fulled
bands Of chiffon, with a chou and three o.
trich feathers. 1t was intended for wear
over a high couture. The chiffon bands or
filet came to point in front of the high
knot. They then extended on either side Of
the knot to the back. At the back, but
little to the left side. chou of the chiffon
of medium size and fiat was placed. From
this chou three -uncurled ostrich plumes
stood out. They did not stand high, but
well away from the hair and slightly up
ward at first, afterward dropping over the
hair
A decidedly queer looking headdress was
made of a stiff gold band about an inch
and a half wide, set upon the head at some
what the same angle and in about the same
relative size as Tommy Atkins cap Is
worn by the doughty British soldier Two
little Mercury wings of bright glittering
green iridescent work sprOuted from either
side of the gold band, little nearer the
was attached to the gold band back Of the
little green wing on one side. Then the os-
trich feather went across the top of the
head perfectly fat and hung down on the
left side of the head away below the ear.
Bandeaux with birds of paradise falling
over one ear, or with white feather brushes
standing straight up. are still highly popu-
lar, although they are not becoming to
many women or really beautiful But they
are smart, and to be smart is sometimes
more effective than to be beautiful or be-
coming.
None of these headdresses, although thew
are effective and charming enough, are
really altogether suitable for wearing in
the streets in wintry weather. The fact of
the matter is women seem doomed to con-
tinue the dsconcerting and uncomfortable
practice of wearing ordinary evening hats,
taking them off at the theater. after faith
fully fishing for hatpins, and holding them
in their laps during the performance. What
this means in the way of disheveled locks.
hurry and furry at the beginning and end
of the evening and disheveled tempers only
women who have to endure the process
know. There are ways out of it, however.
IL our sex would only be sensible. It would
be possible to wear small nat fur hats in
winter. fitting closely to the head and soft
so that they could be rolled up or sat ON
without damage.
These wouldn't muss the hair 20 much as
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-03
Fine Paris Frocking
Among Juveniles

TROCKS for children from Paris are
r. appearing in the most astonishing va
riety and in such elaborate models
as make one gasp and rather wonder as
to whether after all they are not grown-up
frocks seen under diminishing glass. The
skirts of little girls frocks are very, very
short and fare very much at the bottom
although boasting an exceedingly jaunty
fit at the top Of the skirt, around the hips
In spite Of the craze for empire fashions
many Of the most stylish little frocks are
made long WASTED and finished with tiny
belts and sashes.
fashionable birthday tea for children was
of embroidered white ladies' cloth, the very
short skirt made in two founces each edg-
ed with a trimming Of black velvet over
which was an embroidery of white silk.
The bodice was long-waisted and trimmed
with black velvet ribbon, cut low in the
neck. with band of the embroidered vel
vet around the guimpe and finishing the ell
bow sleeves. The belt was of black velvet
finished with a bow and long ends in the
back To complete this chick costume there
black velvet collar with two points back
and front. The collar was edged with a
white silk braid. The short sleeves were
also finished with the braid over black
velvet.
The child wore with this costume an
ermine bonnet close fitting and high in
the crown. 1t was trimmed on either side
with large white rose. White stockings
and black patent leather pumps and white
elbow gloves were worn.
Another little girl wore a white CASH
mere costume made with short skirt and
long blouse. This frock was trimmed with
bands of white silk and pleatings Of the
same on the skirt The deep pointed col
lar was of English eyelet embroidery, the
same being used for rather deep belt.
Over this was worn q coat of golden brown
velvet faced with white and trimmed with
bands of darker velvet. The coat was very
short WASTED, with full skirt. The sleeves
were very full at the top and trimmed with
two shoulder capes With the costume the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-03

full sleeves were finished with cuffs trim.
med with narrow lace. The chemisette had
a choker collar and the blouse proper was
finished with a shallow shawl collar of all.
over embroidery.
let and white cloth trimmed with black
satin. The skirt was box pleated. The
sailor blouse of red cloth opened over
med with four horizontal bands Of black
satin. The sailor collar was in two sections.
The back part, which came over the Shout.
ders, was made of black satin edged with
bands Of white cloth. The lower lapela
were of white cloth trimmed with bands
Of black satin. The costume had q broad,
stin black satin belt and the gloves were
also finished with black satin bands.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-03
The Universal Language Of Clothes.

ISSNIcW.
The top hat represents the universal Ian
guage of attire 1t walls and weeps against
the walls of Jerusalem, and it turns up In
the solitudes of the desert; even the loneH-
est mountain peaks are not safe from its
democratic simplicity. Once met silk
hat, probably rescued from some benevo-
lent dust bin. milking a cow In London
park. The hat nearly caused a riot; each
and every passerby turned and stared ins
dignantly. The eccentric cowboy in the top
hat finished his allotted task, and in com.
pany Of his cow and the milk pail he am
bled placidly out of sight Still. one can't
help asking in the interest of personal lib
erty, why shouldn't a silk hat be permitted
to milk COW? The cow doesn't mind. 10
why should wet