davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12
white silk embroidery which trimmed the
front
New NeckWear.

. Tailored and lingerie neckwear Is partic-
the lines on which the stocks. ties and col
lars are made. In addition to the stylish
cut of these new model neckPieces, alIsare
fashioned In variety OF ways that add 10
their practical service and incidentally
make them suitable for all occasions, for a
plain stock, collar or tie appropriate for
morning use may be bought in any of the
most approved shapes, while the same
models, deliberately embroidered or trimmed
with real lace. can be purchased for dressy
afternoon wear.
Stocks with tabs, long and short, wide.
narrow and cut on the bias. I'm plain or en-
broidered models are again In favor for use
with both plain and lingerie waists. The
decorative designs used are quite large and
distinct. some of them being scroll patterns
with lace inserts. others are in floral de-
vices with openwork embroidery.
In collars plain and embroidered models
are worn. The latter just now are mos,
popular, Probably because of the dainty
lingerie ties that are used to harmonic
design on the stif linen neckpiece is ear.
ried out on the ends of the sheer lawn OF
batiste scarf.
As the ties are worn with these collars
some of them are decidedly ornate. being
finished at the ends with embroidery or in
serts OF real lace in odd medallion motifs
Net ties are also pretty and fashionable
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

this figure has now to be reduced by half
and more than half. Exquisite Inquired
crepes and most effective embroidered
seem ridicuiously low prices. and 1t is
these silks that are worth looking into and
purchasing, for they make most charming
and serviceable gowns. Although the
printed and painted chiffons have been
fashionable throughout the winter, still
their popularity is not one bit abated, and
there Is little or no hope of their being at
all reduced in price, for the present at
any rate.
Although so widely seen abroad. the
fashion OF wearing a decollete evening
has never gained approval in this coun-
try. and while small square or V-shaped
yoke is adapted now and then for this
style of dinner dress. it never looks so
smart or so becoming as does a high
collar of lace and embroidery. The sleeves
vary greatly in size length and design;
some sleeves are little more than lace
shoulder capes falling over a short cap
of lace or chiffon. while others are
longer and are formed of the material
Of the dress. The long shoulder line with
the surpiice Of lace or chiffon. or silk
falling down over the shoulder and form
ing part OF the sleeve itself. is seen on a
great majority Of the new French gowns.
II the style Is becoming one there IL no
objection to 1t. but 1t must be most clev-
erly handled. or ugly. ungraceful lines are
the result
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12
The Serious Minded Woman.

From the womans Home COMPANION.
There Is nothing that women cannot do
but the work must be planned with a
thoroughness that precludes failure. and
done with a modesty which Is the inherent
charm of the superior sex.
AS said every community has its own
problem. Most of these originate outside
of the home. Pure water, pure food, pure
air; clean streets. sanitary schools and
tenements: district nursing; tine education
of the ignorant in the, care of babies: the
question of paupers; the public baths and
travelling libraries; the treatment OF our
women prisoners in prison and after; the
,odging-house problem-rnese are only a
few of the civic puzzles crying for trained
women to solve.
a woman does probably her greatest
share OF her duty as a citizen when she
makes a home safe and happy harbor of
refuge from stormy world, when she
brings up her children into noble manhood
and womanhood. and when she does not
destroy her husband and family by bad
cooking and bad temper: bur that same
woman crowns her career as citizen when
she interests herself In and becomes a vital
part of some problem OF government. A
woman successful in home life Is desper-
ately needed in civic life.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

seen as is the plain effect of the bands.
The skirt is most y carefully fitted and
hangs to perfection. and although the
straight lines are for the moment con-
sidered more fashionable than the bias
seams, the material and the fullness there
of are most skilfully draped or hung to
make the bias line, that is SO becoming
longer in front than in the back
Fine gathers at the side are more fash
ionable than narrow pleats in net, but If
the latter effect is more becoming. then it
is used in preference. The draped or
surplice waists are most fashionable, but
always in the dinner gowns, if net are to
be seen the old-fashioned full baby waists
that have been in fashion for many, many
years. The model is, however. SO trimmed
that the original lines are almost hidden
and the draped effect predominates. Vel
vet or silk bands are on the waist, to
match the skirt. or narrow ruffies are
edged with fine lace. With a smart black
net skirt and two waists an endless va
riety can be obtained, for Innings of differ
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

11HE term dinner gown Is in these
days much more comprehensive
4 than it was a year or two ago, for
now 1t signifies not only the elaborate even
ing gown such as is worn at the most for
NAL of evening entertainments. but also the
high-cut gown that in America Is worn Tor
dining in public and at the play.
Dressmakers delight in the elaborate din
ner gowns. for in them they find the best
possible opportunities to use the richest of
materials. to try the most novel effects
and colorings. and also to display any pos
sible note of individuality that may sud
denly occur to them. The gown shows to
advantage, for n is much more in evidence
than in a crowded ball room, where the fine
details are apt to be lost sight of among
the myriaGs of other gowns built on the
same order. At a dinner each individual
gown is on exhibition, as II were, and
there Is not the smallest point about 1t
that does not show of to advantage or
disadvantage. while every accessory of
lace. jewels trimming stands out from
a background. Consequently it is not re-
markable that the dressmakers and their
clients spend much time and thought in
the planning of the dinner gowns necessary
for the fashionable. up-to-date wardrobe.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

ent color will transform it absolutely.
White lace and net are also both smart
and useful, while in palest gray and light
colors are the daintiest of dinner gowns,
made both on simple and elaborate lines.
Bands of lace entre-deux, lace medallions,
embroidered batiste, or chiffon medalhons,
tiniest and finest of wreaths and true
lovers knots in ribbon embroidery or the
finest of artificial flowers can make the
simplest Of gowns elaborate and expensive.
while for the great majority there Is no
end of effective and comparatively cheap
laces and embroideries that can be utilized
effectively. Many of the colored nets are
so elaborate In design that they really
look better without too much trimming,
and, as has already been said the-painted
chiffons, one of this years novelties, are
OF such design as to need no trimming
at all, while the plain satin or taffeta
bands are extremely smart. Pleated chif-
fon dinner gowns have these bands and
no embroidery or trimming excepting on
the waist.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12
NEW SEWING SCREENS OF LACE.

screens made of Powered chintz, and for
veranda there are most attractive
screens Of green and white linen, green
satin. scarlet satin, scarlet leather. green
leather etc, all mounted on wicker work
of good, heavy order, and having the
merits Of looking and being both summary
and substantial. Some of these little We
randa screens are made to stand on the
table instead of on the floor. They are
quite small enough to fold up and carry
in a medium-sized trunk, and would not
be so difficult to stow away in a trunk as
q work basket which contained great
q variety Of utensils.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

Wearing low-cut gowns at dinner is now
q most universal fashion among fashionable
people, and the fashion has great deal
to recommend 1t. Homes are generally
so overheated that the low gown is by
far TIE more comfortable. If change
is to be made from what has been worn
all day II Is really more comfortable to
made the decided change rather thar
again to put on a waist with a high.
stiffly boned collar. such as has been
worn in the street. Neither is it neces-
sary TO spend lot of money on dinner
gowns; in fact. from an economical point
OF view they are most satisfactory, for
by retrimming and refreshening often an
old waist can be made 10 look extremely
smart. Then for summer the inexpensive
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

Skirts for these gowns are no longer ex-
agseratedly long. They have some tram
but the round train is more popular thah
the long, square model. and the sides and
front are also long. Women have learned
how to manage this model of skirt much
better than when it first became fashion
able, and, besides. dressmakers have also
learned how to cut the skirts so that there
shall be sufficient flare to keep them out
around the foot thus making them much
easier to hold up and to walk about IN
than when the folds of the material fell
in around the foot
One of the most becoming OF all the
gowns which the modern fashionable
woman now considers essential to her
well-being is the high-cut dinner gown,
worn when dining at restaurant or at
the play. There is no fixed and immutable
law as to what material shall be used in
it's construction what color 1t shall be or
on what model IT shall be built. Amy
marked taste or individuality can here
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

Spangled gowns have temporarily dis
appeared from view, and In their place
are seen exquisite pale shades Of salmon,
mauve, pistache green and all the delicate
shades that are so charmingly pretty and
so delightfully."- appropriate for the spring
and summer, even though they lack the
brilliant effect of the spangled net robe.
Pathetic trimming and embroidery, with
tiny steel spangies and rhinestones bring
ing out the design with extra effect, are
used in many of the trimmings, but as
rule the soft silks. satins and faces this
spring depend pretty much on their own
intrinsic charm.
One Of the most absorbing questions
OF the moment Is in regard to the prin-
cess and empire gowns. Are they or
are they not as fashionable as they have
been for SO many months? No one seems
inclined to answer this authoritatively
so 1t is left for time alone to solve the
problem. At all events, there are about
an equal number of princess. empire and
two-pece gowns being made up at the
present moment, and wide. tightly draped
girdles as well as narrow. stitched belts
are adopted in the new models, according
to which style is the more becoming and
best suited to the lines of the figure.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12
Chiffon Wells.

Chiffon wells. as we'll as those of net,
show the knife-pleated ruffie about their
edges. 1t should. however, be made Of
chiffon instead Of lace, and is usually
from two to three inches wide. Sometimes
1t Is corded at the bottom in the shape Of
a scallop and then pleated. Invariably the
knife pleating is done very fine.
When bought in the shops these wells
are costly luxuries for those who gown
themselves on limited incomes. Any won-
an. however. with nimble fingers can make
them satisfactorily. Lace which has al
ready seen service can be turned to &C
count and afterward transferred from one
net to another as long as the fashion
endures.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

for the ruff1ed, tucked and pleated ends
make effective bowknots.
Four-in-hand stock ties of pique or fig
ured madras are being worn again. are
the ascots: the latter are effected mostly
for out-of-doo sports. such as tennis. golf
or for driving and riding.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

" HE lace sewing screen is now very
much the desire of the woman who
wishes the guest chamber in her
country house to be all that Is most
charming, most complete. most in the
fashion. Every hostess knows that proper
care for her guests possible needs requires
the placing of some sort of sewing outfit In
the guest chamber which is to be occupied
by woman. Sometimes small basket
or box Is used and stocked with all the
necessary implements for taking a needful
stitch in any article of the visitors at
tire. In truth, for transient visitor the
little sewing box or basket, or even an
oldfashioned comfort bag" Is all that
is necessary. But the sewing screen Is
newer, and undoubtedly for visitor who
Is to, stay for a week or more and who
may be supposed to have some needle
work in hand 1t would prove not only
an attractive but also a very useful ar
ticle of furniture. The lace sewing screen
may also be for the hostess own use, and
SO decorative and dainty Is itthat under
those circumstances it may well find a
place not only in the boudotr, but In the
drawing room or summer parlor as we'll
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

grace may be impaired by having the
embroidered flower in the upper corner of
one end and in the lower corner OF the
opposite end.
On all white fancy waists except those
made of strictly wash material the touch
of gold is now the distinguishing mark
of newness. The linen and batiste lingerie
waists should be exmept from IT.. since 1t
is not washable. and SO spoils their sug-
gestion of freshness
It is most effective however, on the
blouses of white null, pongee silk tissue
and thin India and China silk. All these
are in reality wash waists and are made
up as are the wash waists without lining
and trimmed with quantities of embroid-
cry lace. etc. But the embroidery In silk
instead of linen seems better to accord
with the gold thread. and the fact that
the material is itself partly or wholly
silk seems to warrant the use of the gold.
In these fiimsy. fragile silk biouses
trimmed with gold one finds suggestion
OF the Syrian fabrics. which have become
fairly well known to Americans through
the Syrian peddlers and their many shops
at watering places, etc Somehow the
touch of gold does for white silk blouses
exactly what is necessary. and gives them
tone in which heretofore they have been
lacking. 1t should, generally speaking.
be only a touch. One Of the most effec-
tive styles of trimming a white silk shirt
waist which was heavily embroidered with
white silk. with gold. was to run the gold
thread In two narrow. bands around the
neck of the waist and down both sides of
the front, thus forming q border for the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12
NOVEL TOUCHES FOR SHIRT WAISTS.
~
tn ATHE
X which

n ATHER odd-looking shirt waists.
X which bear the stamp of Paris, and
which are undoubtedly the very
newest examples of this style of feminine
garment. are made OF striped linen,
batiste, percale, etc. The stripes are of
the hairline variety or a trihe heavier,
and are far apart, thus preserving to the
waist the appearance rather Of a white
than of a colored garment. The stripes
are vertical. and at the top of the waist,
where the yoke Is simulated by vertical
tucks. they naturally come together closely
enough to produce quite a color effect.
Some OF the waists are made in the ordi-
nary shirt waist style, with only this
seasons popular pleated frill to afford
decoration. more popular style, how
ever, has waistcoat of plain white ma
terial. somewhat thinner than the striped
material set In the front. This waistcoat
is full and Is made OF fine tucks or Is
trimmed with little fine embroidery. 1t
is bordered on both sides with a narrow
pleated rufie of the striped lawn.
-
Another way of trimming the striped
waists is to decorate the fronts, cuffs and
collar with embroidery In linen thread in
the color of the stripe. This embroidery
must. OF course. accord with the simplicity
OF the striped design. A touch of color Is
also given to the waists by the little bow
tie now so popular. With a striped waist
having waistcoat and collar of plain
material will be worn little pleated tie
OF white having q colored flower or two
embroidered on each end, the flower match
ing the stripe in color. When a pleated
hut:er.y bcT > gsed q little touch OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

find expression, and even the dullest Of
observers can realize that here is an un-
rivaled opportunity for the woman of
taste to carry out her own ideas. Light
materials are, as rule, the favorite, and
light colors are the most popular, black
being always the great exeeption-white,
pale gray, yellow pink blue. mauve,
green and so on through the whole range
of color, while sharp contrasts challenge
attention and divide favor with the most
wonderfully carried out color schemes.
Combining two materials is a favorite
fashion, and the brocaded and Powered
or figured silks with the plain skirts are
thought very smart. Silk waists rather
than coats are to be noticed. or rather
sort of combination of waist and coat.
There are few Louis XIV silk coats to
be SEEM and the fashion will surely be
popular before long. for it is becoming to
almost every woman, and looks especially
well with the chiffon net skirts that are
so fashionable for this style of gown.
The skirts are generally all white, but
sometimes a pale shade of pink, blue.
mauve or cream chiffon is used. provided.
Of course, the color Is prominent In the
silk of the coat.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

spring, and while the material cannot hon
estly be said to give very good wear,
1t can be so gracefully draped. and Is SO
attractive in any color and with any style
of trimming whatsoever. that 1t Is not
likely to be given up for some little time
to come. For the high-neck black gowns
olga seems to be especially popular; Its
satin sheen makes it look less like mourn
ing than most of the other black materi-
ais, and then 1t Is so soft, clinging and
fine particularly becoming to any figure.
Black olga cloth made up with deep
vest and sleeves Of cream or gold lace,
with Just q touch OF queer Japanese en-
broidery Of passementerie. makes most
attractive gown, and one that is at once
sufficiently elaborate for evening wear and
yet not too conspicuous and marked In
effect Black and white is ever favorite
combination for the restaurant dress. and
is not less popular than usual this year.
being seen in chiffon, striped or figured.
in stripes with black lace coat and in
costumes of black and white lace effec-
lively combined. and trimmed with jet,
satin and velvet ribbon with unusual en-
broidery.,
This Is one of the great times of the
year to buy silk of any kind, for not only
are all the new spring and summer silks
OH exhibition, but whatever has CHANGED
to escape the winter sales can now be
had at most tempting prices. Frequently
the reason that some handsome dress pat
tern has not been sold is owing to the
price that was put upon it. and, of course.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12
Embroidery and Lace,

Very beautiful collar and cuff sets may
be made without much work by edg.ng
line embroidery with Valenciennes lace
slightly fulled.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

These are quite shallow and are meant
for embroidery, silks. tape, needles <put-
tons and innumerable other trifes Be
low these is a bar Of ribbon-bound WOOD
from which small gilt uprights extend, the
spools being slipped over these uprlghts.
Below the spools on one wing OF the
screen is large rectangular receptacle
like an envelope. This has several COM
partments when opened. in which de-
signs on paper or any other thing which
1t is desirable to keep fiat may be kept
pressed out all the time.
On the outer side of this envelope Is
gilt chain, which, when 1t is fastened up to
a hook on the screen. keeps all the en-
velope closed. On taking down the chain
the envelope falls open and al Of its COM
partments are plainly in view.
Below this elaborate contrivance there
is q long pocket extending all across this
wing of the screen In which rolled-up
work may be kept. On the lower half of
the other wing of the screen there Is a
large square pocket where large pieces OF
work may be stored. Attached to the top
corners of the screen are long ribbons, to
the ends OF which are tied emery bags.
scissors of various sorts, etc.
In making such a screen 1t is particu-
larly necessary to have the bottom well
weighted and to see that the hinges work
we'll, and that the foundation material is
strong enough for good. stout work pock-
cts. Nothing could be more disappointing
than screen which tottered or whose
pockets sagged or which tumbled over
every time my lady's little dog ran across
the veranda floor. There are also similar
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

No woman who has once realized by
the experience of possession the many pos
sibilities of smart black evening gown
is ever without one. land SO it would seem
this year that the leading dressmakers
had realized that fact and had put forth
far greater variety of models than
usual. There is a most charming figured.
or what used to be known a sprigged,
net OF fine texture that is fascinatingly
attractive in black; the skirt is quite full,
with most decided and becoming flare, and
is trimmed around the lower part with
bands of black velvet ribbon. satin or
silk on the bias, unlined. Sometimes these
bands, il silk or satin is used. are beaded
with a narrow pleating or ruching of net.
but, after all, the ruching is not so often
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

The screen is low, two-winged affair
In which not particle of woodwork
shows. the wings being bound with rib
bon in the shade which Is to line the
screen A light tint. preferably. perhaps
pale blue, Is used to cover the screen,
either silk, satin, chintz or linen being
employed for that purpose Italian fiIet
lace is put on over this being shirred
slightly. Gathered pockets are put along
the top part of both wings of the screen.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12

materials; muslins and such fabrics make
up most satisfactorily and effectively. 80
that the cost of dinner gown is often
less than any other in the entire ward
robe.
But when expense does not have to
enter into the question, where 1t IS merely
the time and thought that have to be eX-
ercised, the prices asked and paid are
somewhat overwhelming to the novice in
the realm of dress. A simple little frock
Is simple in name only, for it's very sim
plicity is attained only at great cost as
rule The finest of laces and materials
are most Casually used. but their beauty
is not evident. at first glance, and it is
only the exquisite finish of 1t all that APP
peals to every one. whether yersed or
not in the magic of smart clothes. The
figured ne. and lace dinner gowns always
seem especially suitable for summer
weather. and, while they are fashionable
all the year are at this time in greatest
demand. There has been this season an
unusual number of figured nets displayed
so that it has been possible to secure
great variety of effect, in white, black.
or, in fact, any color, while the making
them up over different colored Innings has
added greatly in some instances to their
individuality.>
The Durham recorder. [volume] (Durham, N.C.) 1879-19??, 1907-02-05

Cotton, Monday, February 4.
IL cents.