Evening journal., 1907-09-21

we'll as the one-piece wrap which can be
taken on and of without musslng the
softest and daintiest Of gowns. With these
wraps a woman is emancipated from hav-
Ing her sleeves tucked In by another per-
son.
Many smart tailored gowns are TO be
worn combined with severely tailored
waists.
THE Empire gown and the princess,
both greatly modified" continues Mrs.
Osborn. will continue to appear fire.
quently. The Empire waistline slightly
indicated. say. perhaps an inch higher
than the regulation waist. is graceful even
on feshy women. The old idea OF the
Princess, melting the woman and pouring
her into IT, no longer prevails. Such ac-
lcentuation Of the hips ruined the style
The straight-cut princess Of to-day. sug-
gesting the long. straight line from the
shoulder, is more exclusive. One Of Ethel
Barrymore's gowns is a beautiful illustra-
tion of this, but possibly little too mark
ed in cut for all to follow"
Among the Princess models those with
the plastron front will probably meet with
a great popularity for It can be varied in
SO many ways. II can be fashioned In the
severe materials, with button, braid or
embroidered effects. and also In the chf-
! fon cloths and soft evening fabrics.
And now for the fabrics. We are in
cllned to a greater simplicity OF patterns
which is very hopeful for American dress
They will be rich and warm both in tex
ture and color. In wool materials we shall
wear many OF the regulation winter stuifs,
l-broadoloth. plain and In stripes, and
plaids. ladies' cloth. heavy serge, wool
panama. cheviots and velvets. The one
color broadcloths viii appear IN violet,
blue, purple and fawn, while in the chew
lots and plaids, the prevailing colors Will
be blue, stone-gray and green. Many Of
these fabrics will be heavily trimmed
We are TO have great variety of trim
ming this season and win wear a grea
deal Of it-some set on. some set IN
some suspended Stitched and plain band
of cloth or silk and soutache, from thI
widest to the narrowest widths, viii b,
used in decoration Of the heavier dres
fabrics and even on chiffon and voile In
many cases these trimmings are made
more conspicuous by the mode IN which
they are attached. usually by blindstitch
ing only on one edge.
The daintiest. most delicate designs in
pastel shades or resemblances TO Dres-
den patterns will delight the eve in th'
unobtrusive yet decided vest in the suit
coat. or even in the house gown. Tho
introduction of gold and silver thread 4
many Of these designs gives a delicate
but vivid note of richness. Buttons iarg
and small in odd designs and mostly mad'
up Of soutache. or a fancy curling Of brai'
and even the long-used frog appear fl
r new-found places on gowns, suits {
/ coats.
a great deal OF jewelry is now beinl
worm" concludes Mrs. Osborn. ''notabl
) bracelets and large earrings. Smart wo
: men suit the color Of their iewelry 4
their gowning Large handbag effec
! ARE no longer so fashionable.
e In the laces hlet worked--or rather
darned-in gold thread. or set in will
e solid embroidery in gold. brown or viole
are among the most popular. For ths
5 matter, filet in almost every conceivable
design. from all-over patterns to motifs
It triangular design Of velvet and gold {
! gold and silver will havo a long. ionl
run. Among the standard laces the mos
= fashionable are Irish crochet, valencien
? mes. cluny and Japanese, and, OF course
, among the real laces-pont de vents
S English thread and princess"