The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1907-04-28

n. Y. Sun.-The astronomical SUI
premacy of Paris is due not alone to
the native taste of the Partisan but al
SO to the contributions of the rest OF
France. Almost every part of the coun-
try a some special dist which has
been perfected by centuries of expert
ment and for which it produces the
very best materials. The traditions or
these places converge in Paris.
A delicacy which Paris itself is said
to ave evolved in the good old days
of the eating houses where the pro-
prietor and his wife were manager,
cook and waiter and everything else. is
bottled chicken. III principal ingre-
dent in it's composition, hardly excep-
ting the chicken, is patience.
The chicken should be of the spring
variety, the bottle used Is pyramidal
kind used for Burgundy. First of all a
chicken must be skinned. The skin is
tie and with two long slender rods like
chopsticks is carefully spread out I'M
til it completely lines the bottom and
sides.
Next the chicken is boned, spiced and
chopped until it is about the consist
ency of putty. In this state it is poured
into the bottle. Two or more chickens
are used. if necessary, to fill h skin.
Then the bottle is corked and sealed
and placed a water bath, where it Is
kept al boiling point for an hour or so.
1t is set aside to cool and may be
chilled on ice for serving.
The waiter rum a glaciers diamond
around the bottle near its base and a
smart blow knocks the bottom out.
Then the chicken slips out firm and
tight in the skin, a delicious pyramid
of gelatinous dainty-the sort of thing
they call a gelatine, which may be
spread on sandwiches or sliced and
eaten with ham,.
Calls ead en- torture (turtle style)
is a development from French provfn-
cia cooking which Paris has brought
to perfection. The bones, or the greater
part of them, must be removed without
impairing the outward appearance OF
Mr.. Veal. Then his brains are cut into
slices and packed in the cavity with
tnln slices of white meat of chicken.
The whole is packed solid with a
highly spiced mincemeat.
It is served with heaps of crawfish,
truffles and fried yolks of eggs
covering the dish around it. It may not
taste like turtle, some Parisians IA
because it is SO very much more deli
cious. The complete woTk sells for
about $50 francs, or $50.
The composer Rossini is credited
with the invention of the stuffed
macaroni. 1t is said he used to make
it himself with a golden syringe.
The syringe, a big n of the Die
piston build. is filled with truffled
mincemeat or other PUPPY savory fill
ing matter. The end of the syringe is
in the dry macaroni tube and
with slow and patient work the filling
is forced put until the hollow is filled.
Then the macaroni is baked and served
hot.
The north and east of France are
for their solid and substantial
dishes. Nancy produces the finest
sausages in the world and st. Mem
chould Ia a speciality in truffled pigs
feet.
Lorraine is h native land Of roast
sucking pig with his tail in a curley-
cue and his ears pointed as if he en-
joyed being roasted. Belfort furnishes
han and Strasburg another sort OF
sausage. A fair is held for these pork
products in Paris near the Place de Ia
Bastile in Holy Week every yea and
Of charcuterie are sold TO
the Partisan public, who have an inor-
dinate love for ham.
The special contribution of Nor
to French epicurism is tripe a
Ia mode de Caen. Tradition says hat
it was invented by a certain Sidoine
For centuries it has been mad
by Benoits from father to son, but now
just as much of it is made in Paris as
in Caen itself.
From the Rue de la Grande Truan-
derie near the Halles Or central
Partisan market, there goes out daily
about 400 pounds of tripe baked in
some 5000 little tin dishes, which are
at 10 cents apiece, $780, 900 pie
plates full Of tripe for home consump-
ton in Paris, not to speak of quanti-
ties that are timed for expectation.
The tripe is baked into a gelatinous
and highly spiced. True anna
tours of tripe go 10 the place where it
is baked to enjoy it. It is serves to
them OF hot water plates, which keep
the jelly at the right consistency while
they eat it.
Cabbage soup, a great Partisan DEL
icacy, won its favor, as the story goes,
in a singular way. 1t was in 1880, when
play was produced called 1.-THE
Soldier Worker" The author insisted
on extreme realism.
There was a soup scene and he
obliged h management to bring an
actual dish of cabbage soup on the
stage every night The play was not
very good, but the soup was. The odor
was waited out all over the house and
made the spectators hungry.
They went out when the curtain