The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1907-03-10

principal trimming. but IN chiffon. net
and all the gauzes a wide band OF silk
or satin at the feet, headed by q mar
rover band farther UP on the skirt.
makes an attractive finish. besides pro-
tecting the sheer material to an enor-
nous extent. Sometimes this band OF
silk or satin is quite plain and again
It Is embroidered or finished with seal
loped edges. and It may be the same
width all around or graduated toward
the back so as to keep the top OF the
silk the same distance from the floor
all around. This plain band OF silk
or satin Is not restricted to the chiffon
and lace gowns. but is also employed
on afternoon dresses OF cloth and wolfe.
The empire model IS no longer new.
but &c b gaining IN favor as the mod
istss os5sn 60 understand better how to
treat tne1 Design 50 that It may be be-
coming % a1L An empire effect can
be retained with q gown that is fairly
wen fitted; and yet the lines are kept
altogether distinct from those OF
princess model. A most becoming model.
and one that was really exquisite IN
effect was an evening gown OF pale
pink net. made with a handsome bolero
jacket OF pink bead and palette en-
broidery. In front the jacket opened
over vest OF white Dour lace. the
boiero being cut IN the square panel
effect. IN back the Jacket was slashed
up the center to allow for a narrow
empire plalt OF the tulle, and the net
swung loose from just above the belt
line some few inches toward the front,
although In the center OF the front the
skirt was attached and fitted even be-
low the waist line. Down the skirt. az
regular intervals, were laid rows OF
bright steel spanglss. while the skirt
was bordered all aroand with a wids
band OF the bead work and embroidery,
like that from which the bolero was
formed. The train was unusually long
ana held out by countless narrow ruff
nes Of chiffon underneath the net and
by full si1k dounces on the lining. Al
though It was feared at one time that
the loosA united empire models
might gain some Roadway. this idea
has eeen wsl disproved for not the
most SkiIlfui modiste IN Christendom
could turn out a gown OF this model
that would be anything but hidsously
unettractivs IN appearance.
Gauze Evening Gowns Popular
Striped and figured gauzes are to be
used a great deal this spring for both
afternoon and evening wear; a white
gauze with broad satin stripe IS ex-
ceedingly pretty. and, made up with
ruching and rufies OF fine lace and per-
haps bit Of spangled net trimmings.
makes charming evening dress Tor
the short April and May season. In all
colors, in fact. striped gauzes are at
tractive, and are especially so for
debutantes and young girls not yet out
This material also lends itself well TO
the empire model. for while il drapes
easily and gracefully 1t has still con
siderable natural body and stiffness.
The skirt OF any sort of gauze requires
trimming. and narrow ruchings or ruff
fies Of silk. satin or lace are GENERALLY
more attractive with it than a nat band
OF material
or all the new materials-that Is. OF
the materials that have returned to
1avor after an extended or a brief alb
sence and those that are really novel
none has received the same amount OF
attention as is accorded to the figured
ana painted chfnons. A few years ago
shaded chiffons-varying from pale to
deepest tint OF the one coIor-wars
tremendously fashions bic. so that while
these are again brought back they are
not quite 50 popular as those that are
hoWered or ha1d-painted. These chif-
IONS are seen among afternoon as we'll
as evening models. but for spring they
are in greater evidence for evening
wear There is no design or special
color scheme more popular than an
other amonS these chifons. so that
every one can suit her Individual taste
There are pale. cool tints for the
blonde and more unusual and brilliant
effects for those TO whom striking col
orings are becoming. Some are all the
one shade. while other designs again
have from two to six shades. with fire.
quentiy dash OF black 10 bring out
the effect more conspicuously. 1t must
be remembered In making up the gown
that it viii have a white foundation
and this Will make even the deepest
colors some shades less noticeable The
figured chiffons are. of course ex-
pensive. but then comparatively little
material is required. as IL is very wids
while for hand-painted gown almost
any price may be paid. but there is al
ways great satisfaction in realizing
that one IS the pOssessor of something
really valuable. whether II be a hand
some gown or famous work OF art.
The Lenten season provides such a
capital opportunity for preparing for
the spring and summer that in all prob
ability this outfit receives stricter at
tention than any other in the course
OF the year. and certainly there is not
the slightest excuse for any one being
any way but perfectly gowned after
having had such ample time IN which
to get together this all important trous-
seau.