Los Angeles herald., 1907-06-30

Baste skirt to belt, keeping both sides
alike by measuring from gore to gore
on each side.
Be careful not to stretch the top of
the skirt, but to hold it easy without
pulling it. Try on skirt and pin belt
| ttiigntly at smallest part of waist, at
the same time letting skirt fall in
natural position.
AS skirt hangs from waist, do not fit
IL 100 closely at hips. Remove full
ness py taking up equal amounts at
-tne corresponding seams on each side,
being careful that no draws or cross
wrinkles show in the goods.
| III skirt should fit too closely at knee
ana consequently have a drawn ap-
pearance at bottom, lower front gore
| py placing notches below correspond
ing notches on front side cores. In
IKE manner lower front side cores. In
| pacing notches in them below those
on next SIDE gore. Having arranged
cores, trim top of skirt by cutting off
| material that projects above general
curve in waist line
If a skirt should hang too fill in
front, open, seams between front and
side gore and raise front gore by
piaclhg notcnes above those on front
side gore. 1t will be well to try a
quarter of an inch, as that amount will
make decided difference.
Ih1S means to commence to min cores
together at waist line, allowing front
gore to extend a quarter of an inch
above side ones.
Between first and second side gores
open seaQls and proceed as with front,
placing two notches on first side gore
quarter of an inch above those on
second side gore. Any fullness on sides
may be drawn back by raising hack
edges of cores in which fullness is an
parent, in the same manner as the
fronts were done.
Ihe cores may be raised more if
| necessary, but one-quarter of an inch
Will usually be found sufficient
10 ADJUST the back of a. skirt when
IL spans is an easy matter. if one goes
! about it in the right way. Unpin belt
at Waistline and draw the material lIp
until it sets perfectly easy and allows
.ne packet 20 come together without
having a strained appearance. This
alteration will necessitate the altering
or cores at waistline, and perhaps over
hips. The skirt will need to be re-
htted, and seams taken in. See that the
back is not pulled up further than is
necessary, or there will be a tendency
to an ugly bulge in the front. After
the skirt is perfectly fitted pin belt to
II white it is on figure and cut away
skirt material that extends above
waistline.
Keep all corresponding notches to-
gether as in the skirt. Cut and then
paste carefully, with the seams on the
right side for convenience in fitting.
Try the garment on and lin it together
from the top down. See that the goods
Is perfectly smooth to waistline
10 get rid of any extra fullness at
bust take rp an equal amount in each
under arm seam. The armhole will
likely need trimming out; with shears,
snip goods at proper places, taking care
not to cut too deeply at first. Any
fullness at top of the shoulder should
be taken in at shoulder seam.
When wrinkles show in the back open
darts and pin them from top down to
Waistline, seeing that all wrinkles are
smoothed out. 1t may also be neces-
sary to repin center front from bust
down to waistline. Other seams, under
arms and in back, are treated in same
way when wrinkles appear
The garment is fitted at waistline
by taking up seams at back and under
arms. Be careful not to take up too
much at any one seam, thus causing
material to draw. The seams are taken
in like manner over the hips, Until the
parts set perfectly smooth, without
wrinkles.
Few women know that sleeves should
be heightened or shortened at the ell
bow. With a tape measure take length
Of inside seam of sleeve, and compare
this with pattern. If pattern is to be
shortened, lay plait across at elbow; if
it is to be heightened, cut pattern at
this point and lay the. two pieces with
their edges parallel and paste on
piece of paper.
See that corresponding notches are
kept together when basting. This done,
there will be no danger of the sleeve
twisting, and it will bring fullness at
elbow oi top portion in proper place.
The outside seam is always taken up
to ME- the sleeve smaller.
The trou le experienced by the ANA
teur in getting a sleeve to set properly
when placed in the waist will be over
come if the following directions are
rigidly adhered to-:
Place inside seam of sleeve at notch
on front of garment, near lower part
of armhole; the notch at top of sleeve,
place at shoulder seam. Sleeves must
never be stretched in sewing them into
a garment, but must be kept sllghtiy
full at all points. To do this, hold
sleeve next to you.
= Different style sleeves require diHer-
ent amounts of fulness at certain
points. which will always be allowed
for ON patterns, and directions will tell
lust where to place it. The seam where
the sleeve and the garment are sewed
together mus! never be opened, pul
bound with soft silk or overcast.
When this is completely finished, turn
seam back on waist. This will prevent
sleeve standing out in an ugly way, ana
give the desired long shoulder effect.
The great variety of collars now sane
toned by well-dressed women make II
difficult to give detailed descriptions Oh
how to fit them. However, the basis OF
all is the fitted circular, whether II De
cut high in back and low in 'front.' OF
finished with fancy tabs at top.
This circular pattern should mt snug
lv at both top and bottom, but never be
the least bit tight, as nothing is more
uncomfortable than tight collar, be-
sides which, it is apt to pull ana give