davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-06-02
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
eY EplTH RAYMoNp.

New York, June lit is written
that no well-dressed woman goes on
the streets without a wrap The wrap
is one or the most conspicuous features
OF the styles of today. In il are all
The picturesque traits and severe eff
fects that mark the contrast of the
present fashion. Long ago pictur-
esaue fashions were left to evening
garments, while daytime wraps sa-
Vored of practical styles and trim
mings. But the long line of quaint
shapes borrowed from nabobs ard Be
douins OF the east, and the historic
modes filched from the portraits Of the
early French walk abroad in the day.
light as well as by night.
The automobile is largely responsible
for the development of many useful
wraps. Carriage coats have always
savored of dressiness, but the eXigen-
cies of dust and weather in rapid travel
set the wits of designers at work to
the advantage of a host of persons
who have never been on speaking
terms with the horseless carriage.
The spring brought in such a de-
cided change in coat fashions that the
last years left overs are serious
problem 1t is the sleeve and the
shoulder, as usual, that are the diff
culties. The shoulder and the sleeve
gauge the styles perennially. They are
as sensitive to fashions vagaries as
the mercury in the bulb is to the
weather, >and their frequent shifts
make troublesome problems for the
large class of persons who have to
make one garment do several season
work. Shifting fashions are boon 10
that small part of the world whose
sole question of clothing is what to
buy with never a thought of how to
buy 1t. But they are the Sphynxs
own cOnundrums to the rest of woman
kind.
There are few coats with a well-de-
fined waist line that are too everyday
and commonplace not to show the in
fluence of the empire style that has
descended these later years to daytime
fashions. In the lifting of the girdle
above the natural waist line there may
be it's only greatness. but that tells
the story of the garments up-to-date-
ness.
A small wrap seen at the theatre
was made of the old burnoOse fashion
with rich red purple cloth richly en-
broidered with self-tones. At the back
it was caught up in old burnoose style,
with long silk tassels.
A coat of brown taffeta had the
waist abbreviated just enough TO give
cachet TO the coat. The coat was
trimmed with brown and red shot taft
feta. The Jacket effect of the body
part of the garment was outlined with
bands of the silk shot that end in pas
sementerie ornaments Plated frills
served as collar and cuffs The skirt
part was plated under the upper pOr-
ton and was slashed from waist to
hem at the sides.
Eyelet embroidery will remain in
vogue just as long as its faithful ad-
herents can keep it. OF all the needle
work types il lends itself to the most
lacy effects and is of all of them the
most universally popular. Few strik-
ingly new patterns crop out in it from
year to wear for past eTas seem TO
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-06-02

one its floral embellishments and from
another its figured designs, uniting the
whole anu completing them with in
crustation on tulle or on muslin. The
same may be said OF embroiieries and
laces. Dresses composed wholly Of
English or rOugheT lace are no longer
made They would be regarded as too
simple. Therefore English lace is
mixed with irish or with Cluny each
being set in a kind of framework Of
Valenciennes almost Initiating nature.
These costumes. therefore, are artistic
masterpieces. almost impossible to
copy, and bearing in their ensemble
the mark of dressmaking genius.
the daring with which upon the
most severely tailOr-nade tOilettes q
hint of frivolity is introduced is quite
refreshing to the minds of those who
refuse to believe that any gown reed
only be utterly practical.
Such an instance occurs IN the case
of a marine blue serge walking suit.
Upon the boler0 of which are lOZenges
and squares of china blue lines are
introduced. decorated with Russian
cross stitch.
Upon another gown made Of pale
fawn color a parchment colOred waist
coat of very heavy satin is noticeab BILE,
overlaid with whipcord embroidery
gold thread. The note of bullion is
emphasized by the very small balls Of
the fringe that edges the coat and the
page boy buttons that zigzag down
the vest in vandykes.
The new ivory lace blouses with their
medallionists silver lace figures and
the tiny silver tassels that break the
surface of the fabric are fairy-1ike in
beauty Nothing could be prettier for
afternoon wear in the house than such
a blouse with a skirt of silver gray
chameleon silk. quite simply made and
set very full into the waistbelt.
Wonderfully handsome are the huge
flowers that are applied to so many
of the gowns and those picturesque
frocks for evening wear that become
so many women to perfection. The
flowers are made Of velvet. chiffon and
gold and silver tissue, and are applied
to the material they adOTn so that
they half fall away. half cling to if.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-06-02
CARE OF TABLEcLoTHS.

When not in use a tablecIoth should
be kept in folded creases. and when
brought out to be spread should be
laid on the table and unfoided its en-
tire length, the width being doubled
with the center crease along the cen
ter of the table. Then the half breadth
that is folded should be turned back
and the cloth Will hang even. Careless
servants often gather up a cloth amy
how" without taking the trouble to
fold il up again in its own creases, and
thus fresh ones are made. A table
cloth viii keep fresh looking as long
again If it is always folded up I'm its
own folds and put away until the next
meal
The French have way Of making
even an inferior quality of table linen
look wei without the aid of starch.
When the napkins are washed and
ready to be irOned they are dipped into
boiling water and partially wrung out
between cloths. They are then rapidly
irOned with as hot fatiron as posi-
BILE without burning them
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-06-02

dressed as high as possible he said.
"A thick pad must be pinned on the
crown of the head and over this the
hair must be rolled. 1t must then be
arranged in quantities of small curls,
rising in a pyramid form.
'"The hat must be lightly poised on
this erection and secured by two long
hat pins. The hair must then be
loosened rs front and pinned W to the
brim of the bat"
OF course nothing ruins the hair
more than dragging 1T up from the
temples. In time the devctees to this
fashion will not only become gray on
the temples. but bald.
There is one person, however, who
will benefit. The girl with very short
hair can raise her hat on an enormous
circular pad, and pin her scanty locks
Up to meet her hat. thus doing away
with the toll of arranging curIs, coils
or twists
The Washington times., 1907-06-27

low. Banker Farson had the suit
made to order by one of the best
tailors in Chicago, the coattails were
long and symmetrical, and the num-
Der of congratulations showered on
Banker Farson then and later, by
mail and telephone. were numerous
and significant.
Chicago leads in this departure,
but the East will be glad to follow.
Proud, independent, and complacent,
with never a hint of her in
tentions, Chicago stamps her mighty
foot, and 10, fashion must revise it.
self, and the black full dress which
in these parts is transmitted from
father to son, and from son 10 a
secondhand clothing dealer, must
be placed in the tarbag for the sum
mer. White-white, with white silk
facings and rambler roses, prefer
ably hand-Painted-that is the edict,
and prospective husbands hasten to
obey it.
The Washington times., 1907-06-27
CRATE Of ONIONS
ORIGIN OF RIOT

NEW YORK. June 27.-The attempt
ed theft Of a crate Of onions brought
on a small riot and some shooting ia
Little Italy" in Harlem last night,
and the reserves Of the East lO4th
street station were called upon to take
hand.
-Four Italians with a pushcart arrived
in Harlem Market between I02d and
l03d streets about 7 o'clock in the even
ing. One of them picked up the crate
Of onions and placed II in the push
cart Edward AicGrane, the market
Waterman. protested. There was a fight.
and one Of the men is said TO have
opened fire with a revolver.
Policeman Hugh McGrade ran UP. He
pursued the four men. while a crowd
OF excited Italians ran at his heels
The men ran into a shoeshop on IO4th
street, and the shoemaker drew a re-
volver. There was more shooting, but
no one was hit
While this was going on some one
sent in a call for the reserves. Lavorna
SpornO and Charles Angelina. both Of
COS East IOSth street, were arrested.
charged with larceny and assault
The Washington times., 1907-06-27
THURSDAY. JUNE q. 1907.
What the District Wants.

Pure milk and clean milk at the
lowest reasonable price.
This is what the District wants.
1t is also what the Commissioners
have undertaken to procure.
A series of recommendations to
this end have been submitted by a
special commission, representing all
phases of the milk problem They
may be presumed to be sensible,
practical, needful. Whether they are
or not is for the Commissioners to
decide. It will then remain for
those officials TO urge upon Congress
the enactment of the laws pre-
requisite to betterment of the local
milk supply. Meanwhile-and this
is of immediate importance-they
must do what they can without help
from Congress.
The Commissioners must get re-
suits.
The Washington times., 1907-06-27
COMING TO THE THEATERS

The Rivals" Sheridan's brilliant clas-
sic comedy. viii be Edwin Arden's offer
ing at the BelascO Theater next week
There has not been an adequate presen-
tation Of this great comedy in Washing
ton since the elder Jefferson played Bob
Acres some years ago. Next week Mr..
Arden will be seen IN the role OF Bob
Acres. and he IS expected to give
clever and conscientious performance OF
this exacting part Miss Amy Ricard
Will be seen in the role OF Lydia Ian
guish. Miss Alice Butler viii be the
Mrs Malaprop. and Edward Ellis will
be Sir Anthony Absolute Charles Ham
rnond has been cast for Captain Abso-
lutte. and Edwin Fowler will be Sir Luz
cius O'Trlgger. The play viii be hand
somely staged and costumed, and has
been carefully rehearsed under the per-
sonal direction OF Mr.. Arden, who be-
lieves that this performance Of The
Rivals" will take rank as his best and
most artistic Offering during his present
Washington season. There VIII be the
usual Wednesday and Saturday natl
nees. and an extra Fourth Of July mat
inee on Thursday. An innovation AT the
BeIasco IS that all seats at all matinees
are now % cents.
The Washington times., 1907-06-27
The Proper Proportions.

Mr. Justice lands, who is trying
the Standard Oil Company for. &C
cePting rebates, has decided that be-
fore he imposes the fine in pursu-
ance of the concerns conviction, ne
will find out how well able the COM
pany is to pay, and adjust the pen
atty to its abilities to liquidate.
This seems TO be eminently fair, I'M
less laws of this sort are to be
mere farce.
When a carrier gets 100000 worth
of freight revenue by giving $4,000
in rebates, it is able to pay a $4,000
fine, and still figure out that it has
$4,000 of revenue on the good side
of the account. The fine must be
made heavy enough to constitute a
real punishment, not a comfortable
commission on the business that has
been transacted.
The Standard Oil Company is liza
bic to fines aggregating almost
S30,O00,0O0. 1t could be let off with
one-twentieth of this. \ million and
a-half fine would be ample punish
ment even for some well-to-do peo-
pie or institutions; but il would not
be a decent commission to pay for
the benefits the Standard has de-
rived from rebates and special
favors granted by railroads. 1t
would serve hardly to urge much
less TO admOnish either that corpor-
alton or any other to obeying the
Lave.
So Judge lands makes clear that
he designs having the punishment
proportiOnate to the offense and to
the offenders ability to pay. He is
going to have the big men of Stand
ard Oil in court and require them to
tell how much money the corpora
ton is worth, where it is, and, in
general, to ascertain its financial
status with sufficient accuracy to
enable him TO adjust the burden of
fines to the strength of the corpora
ton.
Incidentally, the hearing is likely
to shed interesting light on dark
places in Standard Oil finances.
Great mystery has long enshrOuded
the methods and operations of this
concern, and a judicial inquiry viii
go far to give the light the public
has long desired. 1t will incidentally
indicate how much of exaggeration
there has been in regard to the
wealth and resources of the com
pany.
The Washington times., 1907-06-27
Back to the Spokesman.

A United States judge has decided
down in Texas that it is no crime
to solicit campaign contributions
from officeholders by mail if the
maker of the levy be not in the Gov
eminent service.
Now we know where we stand. A
marshal in almost any State hunts
out trusty lieutenant and gives
him draft of a letter. The depu-
ties and clerks know the worthy
well. They also know who gave
him his copy. So they shell Out-a
months salary.
Of course the purpose of the civil
service law is just so far frustrated.
II the decision stands and Congress
does likewise the cause of appoint
ing Government employees on their
merits and keeping them in office
because of their merits has received
a stab under the fifth rib. We shall
know in a year or so what Congress
really thinks of civil service.
The Washington times., 1907-06-27

ginning next Monday evening. July !.
which viii ihaugurate the third month
Of its successful summer season. Miss
Hilda Spong Will appear next week as
Vera, the charming heroine It is a
fascinating character. in which she may
be expected 10 add another TO her list
OF successes. Miss Charlotte Walker
will also have another ideal opportunity
II the role OF Fuschia Leach. a breezy
young American girl. The play treats
Of the enforced marriage Of Vera. fresh
from the convent. TO Prince Zouron. a
polished but brutal Russian who takes
her to his gorgeous St. Petersburg pal
ace There he. tires OF Vera and seeks
consolation in an old love. Learning
OF the intrigue, Vera insists that either
she or the other woman must leave the
palace and ZourOff angry at being de-
fled, eNiles his bride 10 a lonely estate
in Poland She is followed there by two
nardy young admirers, Signor Correze.
a singer, and Lord JUra, an English
man. Jura, learning that Vera really
loves COrreZe, challenges Zouroff TO a
duel. kills him. and is himself MORALLY
wunded. but dies joyous IN the knowl-
edge that by his sacrifice his friend Cor
reze and Vera are made happy
The Washington times., 1907-06-27
GARFIELD FUNERAL
NEVER PAID FOR
u. S. Owes Speare Estate
for Twenty-siX
Years.

One Of the assets OF the estate OF
William r. spesre, the veteran under
taker. who died recently. Is a claim
against the United States Government
for conducting the funeral Of President
Garfield. twenty-six years ago.
Frank A. Speare, his brother. who
was associated with him IN his under
taking business up 20 the time Of his
death and who is now in charge Of the
establishment pending the appointment
by the Probate Court OF an executor,
told a Times reporter today the circum-
stances OF the case.
Soon after the Garfield funeral, ac-
cording TO Mr.. Speare. Congress passed
a bin appropriating a sum Of money
with which 10 defray all expenses The
bill carried the provision, however, that
the Secretary Of the Treasury should
appoint q commission whose duty It
should be to investigate all charges. and
require all those presenting claims 70
file receipted bills for the full amount
Of their claims. and with these bills a
general disclaimer agreeing 10 accept
whatever amount should be awarded BY
the commission. The idea OF sending a
receipted bill % anyone and telling the
debtor that any amount agreeable
would be accepted IN full payment did
not appeal TO the late Mr.. Speare's sense
OF business or right. Consequently, he
failed 10 comply with the provisions Of
the act. and the bill was not paid.
Several attempts have since been
made 10 get a bill through Congress 10
pay of Mr. Speare's account. but none
was successful.
7 personally attended the funeral In
Cleveland" said Frank Speare. and
much Of the amount included in our
claim was for actual cash outlay. In
one instance. I had TO pay $500 81 Cleve-
land for cloth for sasnes for the pail
bearers"
Mr.. Speare would not indicate what
action. II any, he proposed to take To
press the claim against the Government
HIS only recourse, he believes, is In set
ting relief from Congress.
The Washington times., 1907-06-27
A Chicago Reform.

News reaches Washington from
Chicago which cannot fail to have
a startling and permanent influence
on the future dictates of fashion.
Chicago has led often in various
works of adventure, and her Cor
respondence School of Sandbagging
is justly popular, but now she is
showing people what to wear and
when to wear it.
The Indiana Society, composed Of
Hoosiers who jumped from the fry
ing pan into the fire and have since
remained in Chicago, had a June
fete the other night at the mansion
of Banker John Farson in Oak Park.
The host has never been sorry that
he quit Indiana, and he determined
TO manifest bis JOY of life by doing
something worth while. He did it,
and Chicago society got jolt from
which it has not quite recovered
long enough to follow Mr.. Parsons
example.
Mr.. Farson, as he greeted his
guests, wore evening dress of pure
white, with white satin facings. The
waistcoat was of pale cream satin,
about the color of Chicago con-
densed milk, and it was embroidered
with delicate roses of pink and yell
The Washington times., 1907-06-27
Senator KnOx'S Speech.

Senator KnOx's speech at New
Haven, in which he discussed the
Federal power of regulating inter
state commerce, seems 10 have
raised about the first issue that has
been injected into the ante-conven-
ton preliminaries of the Rcpubli-
can party. Senator Knox gets rath-
er on both sides of his question, but
on the whole he makes it apparent,
if not manifest, that he is willing
to be understood as disagreeing
with the President about the pos
sibilities of the power over inter
state traffic.
At Indianapolis the President ex-
pressed it as his own opinion that
the pOstroads clause of the Consti-
tuition involved sufficient grant of
power to give Congress control of
transportation, whether State or in
terstate. This doctrine was widely
exploited as the most striking thing
the President had said. Senator
Knox on the other hand, leans de-
cidedly toward the more moderate
position that would preserve the
powers of the States to the very
utmost, and intervene with the Fed
eral power only when such interven-
ton was absolutely necessary by
reason of the failure of the States
ia act
On this question, in short, a care
full reading of Senator Knox's adj
dress cannot but force the conclu-
sion that he is closely in agreement
with Mr.. Bryan. Mr.. Bryan insists
that the State rights and powers
must be preserved to the uttermost,
and this is Mr.. Knox's view. The
President is far more radical than
either of them. He is well known
to have small patience with the
States, and to believe, with the
prePonderating and fast growing
body of opinion in this country,
that the more the central Govern
ment's hand is strengthened the
better win be the results.
The President and Secretary Root
have become the foremost expon-
ents of the doctrine that the States
are more often a hindrance than a
help. Senator Knox and Mr. Bryan
may be named as the leaders of the
The Washington times., 1907-06-27
LUNA PARK ATTRACTIONS
FOR THE COMING WEEK

The American Regimental Band. IN
der the dictatorship Of Richard L.
Weaver. is the interesting musical Of
fering at Luna Park for next week.
The Laurent THO will be the vaude-
vile headliners, one of its highest
claims 10 notice being the novelty OF the
apparatus used and the endurance of
Madame Laurent in supporting the male
members Of the troupe upon her shout
ders.
Anent the baby show. a half hundred
infanule cognoulens have already been
registered, and applications are still
pouring in. There viii be good babies:
babies given 10 the crying habit and
cnuckling, cooling capricioUs cherubs,
8roomed 10 a point OF perfection, with
the fond hope OF carrying off the
hOnors.
Lincoln BeaChey and his airship are
announced for July for a series of
aerial flights and visitations in and
about the park.
Wednesday, July 3. Will be National
Union day at the park
The Washington times., 1907-06-27
Inducing immigration.

The Canadian minister of the in
terror is in Washington in the in
tcrest of his country's campaign to
secure immigration from the United
States. He will discover, if he does
not already know, that there is a
determined effort in this country to
revise land laws and rights, so that
people may be kept at home. At
present Canada's laws are such as
TO attract immigration, where those
of the United States governing the
public domain are in too many cases
calculated to prevent settlement.
Canada would serve its purposes
very well if it could just induce the
United States to let alone the pres
ent land laws.
Aside from this, however, Canada
is certain to continue getting a
great immigration from the United
States because it has more and more
attractive agricultural lands, at
lower prices, than this country can
give. Just as the great West devel-
oPed after the war by leaps and
bounds because there was free land
or very cheap land, so now Canada is
certain TO enjoy immense develop
ment for exactly the same reason.
The Anglo-Saxon loves the land, and
he will have some of his own if it is
possible.
The Washington times., 1907-06-27
BROTHER A CUPID.
WEDDING SECRET

WILKESBARRE, Pa, June Elm
stead of the elaborate wedding. for
which the family and friends of Miss
Minnie Coons, of this city, were pre-
pairing. there was issued. much to the
surprise of friends. announcement of
Miss Coons' wedding to the Rev. Daniel
Freeman in New York on February p
last.
It appears that the two, after being
married, kept IL a secret, and that the
young wife did not tell her parents until
they began preparations for the wedding
the latter part Of this month.
The wedding is the outcome of a ro-
nance. Miss Coons is a pianist and
while studying in Berlin met a young
American member of the Berlin Phil
harmonic He talked much about his
brother. the Rev. Daniel Roy Freeman,
a Unitarian minister, and when Miss
Coons made her debut in Carnegie Hall
she met him. They fell in love, and the
romantic secret marriage resulted.
They will be at home. at 1910 Adams
street, Dorchester, Mass, after Septem-
Der l. The groom has church there.