Omaha daily bee., 1907-04-25
WORLD OF SILKS md LINEN
Isfnits DiTsrity sbswn in the Spring
Drets Goods,
STYLES or GUlHPs, ON AND SLEEVE
Some Successful Models of One-Piec,
GuimDe FrOcks-The Contrast
Ing sleeve a Feature of
Many Costumes.

Were it not for the infinite diversity Of
materials and details one might accuse the
spring frocks and hats Of a certain monot-
ony. Everywhere The kimono sleeve and
its notifications everywhere gulmpe OF
Jumper blouses. Everywhere hats broad Of
brfm at the back. narrower Of brim at the
front, without baadeau, and set well back
from the face.
In the ready-made frocks Of moderate
prices similarity Of line and general idea
are especially marked The artist dress
makers. and the artist milliners as we'll.
while making concessions TO the prevailing
fads, know how 70 introduce a note OF
originality into a model and avoid the COM
monplace Even the one-piece guimpe frock
OF taffeta in which all the shoOs abound
takes on a new smartness under clever
hands, and the chic frock OF this type is a
far cry from the ordinary models shown
from Grand street to Harlem.
The quality Of the silk, the cut, the hang
OF the skirt. the daintiness of guimpe and
sleeves the trimming details, all help 20
differentiate the smart from the common
One exclusive firm has been Offering a
special model Of this class at a price sur
prisingly low for any frock turned out by
this house. The quality Of the taffeta is
good. The skirt is a plain killed model
but hangs well. and the plaits are deeply
laid so that the fullness is adequate
The jumper bodice, attached to the skirt
by a narrow stitched band, is excellently
cut and is finished around neck and sleeve
cap by openwork hand trimming made
from heavy cords of the taffeta. Guimpe
and sleeves are OF cream dotted net lace in
good quality. Anything more practical,
m re easily donned and doffed. or more
simple than such a frock II would be hard
TO imagine. and II is easy 20 understand
why the idea has become epidemic: but
since It is common It should be Stunned
unless one can have the idea carried out
IN the best possible form.
Az for the guimpe frocks in linen and the
guimpe bodices forming integral parts 81
three-piece costumes they are legion and
ere either made with guimpe and sleeves
ettached or intended for wear over separate
biouses. One thing should be observed in
this matter. The sleeveless overblouse. Or
the blouse with kimono sleeve or sleeve
cap, should be associated with a sleeve
on the new lines, rather full and with the
fullness dropping toward the elbow. A
blouse with the very moderate sleeves on
modified leg Of mutton lines, such as were
common last season, does not associate
Rmicably with the new guimpe armhole or
oversieeve and the owner of a guimpe
frock should appreciate that fact
The contrasting sleeve is feature OF
many a model not OF the simple guimpe
persuasion. In fact, II seems almost uni
Rersal among the, drnssy summer frociH
Mofeover one finds the picturesque little
coats OF many OF the French models fitted
out, absurdly enough, with sleeves OF lace
OF chiffon. the armhole or kmono sleeve
drapery Of the coat often being deliberately
trimmed One Of the most attractive
pongee models we have seen had a coat
illustrating this point.
The pongee was Of the pure French
shantung sort and of a light cafe au lait
tone. The skirt was plainly plated, but the
adorable little coat was considerably
trimmed in braid and cord and pendent
ornaments of cafe au lait shot through
with black and gold threads.
Inset on the shoulders. like epaulettes
laid underneath the front and black plaits
of the loose little coat, were wide strips OF
black satin embroidered slightly in gold.
The huge armholes were braided, and in
them were set full, dropping, three-quarter
sleeves Of white chiffon and lace.
Pongees figure conspicuously among the
best models. In bodice and skirt frocks
coat and skirt costumes and three-piece
costumes. Pre,ry coat and skirt frocks in
shantung. ra1ah. etc. are often accom-
panied by blouse Of net preferably iIet.
dyed 10 match the silk and trimmed In silk
or sodtaehe and In cream lace.
Very frequently the little coats are pro-
fusely embroidered by hand in self-color
sOutache and perhaps the skirt also Is
deliberately braided. but in many cases the
skirt is plain and all the ornamentation is
lavished upon the coat These frocks are
shown in the natural shades. in browns,
blues and grays, and some OF the lighter
Copenhagen blues and the hydrangea blues
are especially attractive, though the nat
ural tones are favorites