Vernon County censor. [volume] (Viroqua, Wis.) 1865-1955, 1907-03-06

ter OF the duck It takes three decks
for m order. TWO birds are used for the
sauce that is prepared on u chatting dish.
II guests compliment This chef on his
cuisine. be answers modestly that be has
learned we'll: be worked as PallRrd's
many years when he decided TO start for
himself.
II takes weeks to discover the many
excellent restaurants IN which Paris
abounds; they are endless and they all
have their speclaliies In the GItumh
the epicure goes to Parts for oysters; ne
will eat them nowhere else, Prunler's
gratto-Iike portals are not attractive With
the great haskets of hivalves banked
about the doors and those men perfumed
by the odor OF ash carving IN great
loads ~ snails Prunlsr Is n RurgHndlan
aud he can talk for hours on the art Of
preparing oysters and snails and the
value OF Burgundy wine TIE gets grcat
loads Of oysters fresh from osfeud every
day. Most Americans DO not Ike his
oysters they have particular taste
but that does MOI worry Plnuer: be sub
stitutes snsils and white Burgundy which
is not to be excelled anywhere The faR
NAAsbuh AHlFIRthA naiAhFN AAH hfhN nus
says Bah" when snsIls are suggested
But tits restnnrateur answers: ''Trr
them; they are perfect snails. fed Oh the
best OF grape leaves lie tells bis Gus
toners that the petit girls are the hest
snalls. but there is less market for them
than the Burgundan. because they are
less attractive appearing. II is only to
the favored few that he gives this I'm
IL. a.
after the FIRST frost; they are no longer
active and mar then be cleaned proper
ly. The most important point is the
preparation. They are boned. drained,
poured into saucepan OF water. with
wine, salt. pepper, bay leaves, onions
and carrots. They are then kept In this
Juice for "a hours The shells are cleaned
With soda and the snaIis are put back
into their old resting place. But the
taste Is incomplete without glass Of
good wine.
Just as the epicure gees to Prunier
for sna's he patronizes Henri's for les
viandea With him the broiling OF beef
steaks and roasting Of roast beef are a
tine aH They are cooked wlthoN los
ing any of the juice. Henri informs his
patrons that meats are to be washed
down with strong glass Of Bordeaux
and no other.
These restaurants have classic reputa
tons. but there are many more with
excellent cuisines. though their names
are more bourgeoise There Is Voisin,
favOrite rendezvous OF sayants and dip
lomats His wine cellar Is among the
best in Europe. and he shows with pride
cob-webbed bottles from Provence such
~ nal IF
can boast
voisin has his ideas about serving a
dinner or dejeuner and will not give
them up 10 please the most fastIdious
customers. The following story Is told,
which. II true. certainly shows the sturdy
determination OF the man.
An Engishman was ordering a dinner
one evening and when II came TO dessert
instead Of asking for peche conde or don
y 'lba suggested plum pudding. The
Jrletor's countenauce soured and he
sd: You will end these things at
Duyals; we don't serve them here"
Joseph is another man who has learned
bis business well. having worked for
years at Palllards, aad be would rather
lose $50 bill than yield an opinion to
which be holds nrm Joseph Is often
teased about being Sardou's double. He
answers this with laugh. n is no less
difhcuh a task 20 plan dinner well than
IL is to write n good play. He has many
dishes that air bis own invention. The
stTangest OF these Is a cray nsh baked
10 9 potato.
II one Wishes TO dine well at small en-
pense there Is the Cabaret Lyonnais, an
unpreteutious place, though proud OF itH
cuisine and It's clientele II Is popular
with literary folks because It has an IN
pretentloUs air and serves an excellent
pink wine at 80 Ger times a glass which
tastes like champagne ans Giles 10 the
head more readily. Bat Lyonnals boasts
OF its nsA, seize la bonne femme and
teach 10 Lyunnais The teuch are kept
IL tanks the thick skin Is splendid,
and the favor Is enhanced by the but
ter Ia which they are fried.
n ore 70 wtnug 10 hobnob with
Dlebe.aB, one can have good meal for
little money. At Duvais here one has
"a opportunity 10 study many types Of
people from dressmskcrs' models TO
bank clerks. They come here because
hey eau get q good slice OF meat veg