Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-02

- INCE the tailored shirtwaist. with
its plain lines and lack of elab-
~ crate trimmings, has rcgaincd more
than its Old-time popularity there
has sprung up pronounced interest in
the proper accessories of such waists.
Belts. coE-rs. ties all bear their part
In the makeup of the tailored girl, ard
the correct treatment of neck and waist
line means just the difference between
the well and badly dressed woman.
While there is a certain latitude in
regard to neckwear, and the soft plain
or embroidered stocks are being much
more worn than they were in the win
ter, undoubtedly the most popular COL
lar for The tailored shirtwaist is the
turnover embroidered collar worn with
a small silk, linen or lingerie tab or
longer tie.
Linen belts and girdles have no rival
for wearing with the summer morning
gown. Not only are they more in keep
ing with a plain linen skirt and shirt
waist than a ribbon or silk girdle, but
they have the decided merit of being
cheaper. Every woman knows the diff
ficulty of l-eeping up a fresh supply of
ribbons without frequent buying of new
ones; therefore it is well to reserve
them to use with dressier gowns, and
confine ones self for morning to the
linen belts. which can be easily tubbed.
Moreover. the linen belt with the white
gown does not break the line as does a
colored one therefore is much more be-
coming.
1t is quite the thing just now to have
collar. tie and belt match. This gives a
handsome touch to an absolutely plain
suit; in fact, lends quite the air of
simple embroidered gown. To buy a
set of this kind in hand embroidery Is
quite beyond the power of most women.
A collar alone will cost from 81 to 81;
the simplest tab is at least 81 or $3.50
more: while a girdle as elaborate as
the one shown today could scarcely be
bought for s..
Fortunately, such considerations have
little weight with the woman who en-
broiders. A quarter of yard of heavy
linen and some merceriZed cotton repre-
sents all the money outlay required to
complete such a set, Not even this,
perhaps, as there are few women who
have not odd strips of linen and skeins
of cotton left over from some more
elaborate piece of work.
The work on this set is quite dispro-
portionate to its showiness. The flowers
are of the simplest possible form, with
out a big surface to cover, and the
graceful buttonholed edge can also be
easily worked. Moreover, there are no
new or intricate stitches; the petals and
leaves are done in satin stitch, the CEN
of in pVplpt
the stars in outline or cording stitch
and the edge is buttonholed
Pad the scallop with chain stitch. If
preferred. each edge may be run with
darning cotton. This. however, Will
make flatter work than If padded over
the entire surface. The leaves and
petals, being so small, are most quick
ly padded by using lengthwise stitches
with the satin stitch worked across
them. Run all the eyelets before
piercing TO avoid pulling. and in
working catch as little of the ma
terial as will hold.
This design may be varied by be-
ing done entirely solid; that is, substi-
tuting dots for the centers and small
circles; or the leaves and dots can be
solid and the petals done in eyelet
embroidery. One must be very expert.
however to prevent the oval eyelets
from pulling out OF shape. They
should first be run, then given
lengthwise cut and the material turn
cd back with the needle before being
worked over and over.
The most suitable material for this
set is a heavy linen that does not pull
a lighter linen is nSel. the
embroidery on the belt should first be
dome then the outside should be
basted to another piece of linen and
the scalloped edges and the eyelets
worked through the double material
This is, of course unnecessary for the
collar and tab. The latter may also
be made of lawn or a handkerchief
linen. matching the collar in design.
but not in fabric.
In cutting the belt il can be adapted
to diffcrent-siZed waists by adding or
emitting scaIop on the plain parts
at each side of the back. 1t is well to
cut the giTdle rather looser than you
ordinarily wear belt in order to drop
the front to Il becoming line. Both
the back and front should be boned to
keep them in place. II this is not done
very stin starching will be necessary
to prevent breaking. Owing to the size
of the paper the entire belt cannot be
given. The omitted part consists of
plain scallops, narrowing to a round
ing point, over which the front section
is hooked. The point of this front
piece is at the bottom of the girdie,
and directly in the middle.
The collar is sewed into a straight
double band of linen. which should be
slightly longer than the embroidered
part. In laundering. this band is
starched. while the outer part need
not be- II should have a buttonhole in
the middle of the back and two on