Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1907-10-24

headings, tassels ard buckles. Fine
soutache still remains a favorite, silver
and gold thread will be used to further
decorate those trimmings. Filet Is by
far the most fashionable lace. Princess
English thread and point de Venlse.
Cluny. Irish crochet all will be used to
profuson.
The princess model is still used, but
with certain notifications: the hips are
not accumulated as formerly and the
straight line from the shoulders brings
beauty of the line and graceful sweep
both front and back. The Empire gown
has waist line that Is indicated but
slightly and about one incl higher than
the real line. The girdles of all dresses
are shaped and sloped so that certain
effect is retained when the figure is kept
intact with long lines running from
shoulder to toe.
a gown that was to be used for an
afternoon reception was OF lavender
chiffon taffeta in combination with EN-
broidcrcd batste. The skirt consisted Of
seven cores that had tuck at the back
edge of each and also one in the center
except the front which has one at each
side of the center. thus preserving the
regularity of the spaces, These tucks
converge toward the belt but flare gradu-
ally from the top and are stitched about
half way down. The bodice is tucked
in duchess style, those in the back extend
ing to the wastline. The waist Is mount
ed on a silk lining The front Is open to
the waiStlrc showing n N-shaped chem-
settle of tucked chiffon and edged with
the long ends of 81 shawl collar OF en-
broidered batise. The bodice is collar
less vertical tucks in duchess style are
made In the sleeves which are crossed
at tho elbow by bands of the batisto
below which fall frls of chiffon.
shaped Eirdlc of alternating bands of the
taffcta and batistc affords waist COM
pletior.
A dinner dress intended for woman
tall and slight OF figure was developed
from embroidered not trimmed with lace
and the finest of silk soutache braid.
The skirt is u cord SHRED model having
four clusters of two rows of stirring,
which extends from a little below the
waist line TO below the hips. A founce is
applied at the lower edge two feet deep
in front and gradually rising to three
feet behind. aiding In tho grace of medium
train. A lining supports the bodice which
IS shirrod across the bust and gathered
into the waist lire under a crushed
girdlc, and under the round shaped yoke
of lace. Tho sleeves are full and shirred
in three clusters to the elbow. below
which is lace yoke. Tho soutache is
used for the heading Of the flouncc and
wherever the yoke and cuffs are joined
to tho bodice. The gown would he very
serviceable developed in foulard crepe or
chine chiffon, wolfe or any soft material
| For theatre wear a princess dress was
/ constructed from lavender crepe de chine
and tho lace embroidered in silver thread
! The gown cut from one piece is adjusted
| to The figure above and below the waist
! by graduate tucls. a front panel
| The dress Is in medium sweep and mcas-
urcs about four yards and one fourth at
! the lower edge. The full elbow sleeves
| arc decorated with bands of lace and a
| lace cuff. A lace band encirccs the low
| neck and the same material Is used for
| The japanese sleeve bands. This model
would make a pretty wedding dress made
| OF white radia and white lace: or a dane
ing gown could be developed from silk
organdy ard fet lace.
| second pretty dancing or reception
| gown used in its construction biscuit
| coorod pongoe and cluny lace. The skirt
| was composed of nine cores and inverted
| boX-plait was arranged at each seam
| Two bias trimming braids are sometimes
| used for the decoration of tho skirt which
was in clearing length. The bodice had
an open neck cut in square outline finish
| cd with short sleeves. Made with q high
| rock having a yoke Of tucked chiffon and
| long sleeves. grey mohair would develop
| finely with the yoke outline. cuffs and
| belt decorated with lace motifs Of in
sets" when a muslin or wolfe Is used and
the front of the waist could be trimmed
to match the skirt
| A very handsome gown OF brocaded silk
| consisted Of a two-p.ecc circular skirt in
| four length with sweep and n habit
back and A chic little Jacket of the blouse
| coat style. The sloping OF the skirt is
| smooth at the upper part and falls in
| folds that ripple about the lower edge.
! which measure five yards. The over
! skirt IS cut with deep points back and
| front. decorated with wide band Of lace.
| The waist was close fitting and surplIced
with the right side passing over the left
| The neck was cut low and filled in with
| a lace collar and chemlsette Of fine flet
net embroidered In two tones of yellow
! silk narrower bands of the net similarly
| worked we're used to outline the sleeve
| bands and the front edges of the waist.
| Tho sleeves are open caps TO the elbows
| ever which straps In japanese style are
| attached and under which the lace under
! sleeves The coat has full sleeves open
at the bottom which comes half way to
| the wrist, and it's length is almost as
| short as the little boleros used some
years ago. Tho front open prettily over
| n vest and iabot of lace.
| In nearly every case the wraps in
tended for visiting or evening wear are
furnished with kimono sleeves. For the
short lcshly woman these cut with stole
| fronts, and close fitting under the arms
are preferable, and the sleeves wAile not
truly of the lSmono model may have
A Japanese band, broad over the shoulder
and running parallel with the armhole
The distinguished mark between the
hours at which they may be worn lies in
the weavcs and decorations Light paste
shades are used for evening with lace
embroidery, gold and silver lace trim
mlngs; those for day time wear arc some
! what darker and more subdued in color
ing hair silk and velvet and braid APP
pliques. they are not less trimmed, but
less conspicuous in its mode and variety
| OF trimming.
The long coat will hc more in evidence
shortly for the dressmakers and designers
have dccrecd that the shirtwaist Is only
for morning wear or for use with severe