davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28

shoulders almost to the hem Of the gown,
ruffies OF the chiffon giving a good fare
and making an attractive finish at the feet. :
The low cut bodice may be bordered at the
neck with some ribbon work or beadwork
embroidery, and this design may also be
carried down the front OF the coat on each
side. Loose kmono sleeves opened half
way up the center. tbs sides held loosely
together by loops and rosettes Of ribbon.
are the accepted style fer tea gown today,
and these or the sleeves starting down at
the wide girdls and falling over a lace or
chiffon puff are the accepted style on prac-
tioally all elaborate gowns.
Exceedingly pretty tea gowns, strictly
simple In effect, can be made of fine null
and Powered silk mousseline and made UP
over silk and trimmed with ribbon, rib
bon flowers and quantities Of soft lace
on both bodice and skirt. One or two
gowns of this description will be found
most useful at any place where elaboration
in both living and dressing is not too Inn
portant part Of the summer life.
There really very few women who
do not look at their best in the evening.
SO that It's worth while to make the most
Of this opportunity and try to have the
dinner dresses and the ball gowns the
handsomest and the most becoming Of all
the costumes in the outfit. Some women
may look their best in the more effective
style Of evening dress peculiarly appropri-
ate for winter entertainments-the opera,
dances. etc.-and they have now ample
opportunity to gown themselves effectively
In shimmering satins and superb brocades.
while for those to whom lighter effect OF
gown is more suitable there are the lace,
net and chiffon fabrics that, further soft
ened by flowers, ribbon and lace, help to
keep In mind that the summer time Is here,
and even a crowded ballroom can by the
ht-fiowered effects and the bright-colored
silks worn be made to form quite q diff
ferent picture from that seen in q winter
ballroom. If this could be constantly re-
membered there would be more OF an at
tempt made to keep the entertainments at
different seasons Of the year more unlike,
and the result would be greater enjoyment
for all concerned. for 1t Is only monotony
that pals, and even the least attempt at
contrast Is a welcome relief and causes all
who go In for any sort Of pleasure to do SO
with double zest.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28

that the grdle. being draped up further
and the decolletage being somewhat lower,
gives less space and necessitates the Ruimpe
or vest being smaller.
Stripe effects still continue to be fashion
able. and instead of plain ground with
flowers or garlands scattered over 1t ap-
parently at random. but In reality In a most
carefully studied design, there is now
fine black or colored stripe in the material,
forming a sort Of trellis effect with the
flowers climbing over it. In mousseline de
sole and all such light cool textures this
design Is truly charming. but unless the
gown Is worn over colored silk founda-
ton comparatively brilliant shades must be
selected. for sheer material like chiffon
or mousseline cannot retain its original
character when placed over a white or pale
colored lining. The painted and figured
chffrons with their deep black and white
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28

at the small tables where refreshments
are served. A dance Of this sort is most
attractive at night, lighted by torches of
a rather crude kind. Then the mounte-
banks and fortune tellers who would
naturally be present at such a scene In
real life may circulate among the assem-
blage and tell fortunes or perform their
particular feats for extra money. all OF
which would swell the charity fund There
may also be at once side Of the open space
where the company gathers little puppet
show which is often very funny when
worked by amateurs.
For an afternoon entertainment flower
dances are very pretty. Very young girls
are most likely to be successful in these
flower dances. They must be dressed in
the proper costumes. but white frocks
with sashes and hair bows Of the colors
to represent various flowers make an at
tractive showing. The flower dances can
be readily arranged by kindergarten
teacher and dancing teacher, the idea
being to represent not only the color but
the motions Of the flowers. II 1t is desired
to take some trouble In preparing the cos
tunes for such a dance, most charming
ones can be made of crepe paper. For
the roses the skirts may be made Of large
rose-colered petals. the bodice and short
sleeves also being made of the petals
Dark green stockings and rose-colered
shoes and a green cap made of a huge
rose leaf will complete the costume VI
the rose costume may be of white. with
wreaths of paper roses around the skirt
and bodice and a wreath for the hair
The daisy costume is white. yellow ana
little green. and a short skirted white rrock
with low neck and short sleeves, with an
accordion -pleated skirt and petals around
the bottom of the skirt and the top OF the
bodice, may have a yellow girdle and .
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28

most fashionable Of all materials for sum-
mer evening costumes, and decided coiors
rather than white and the indefinite snaoSs
Of pink and blue are as much in favor as
at the height Of last winters season.
Green is one Of the popular shades at ths
moment and Is to be seen IN all possible
tones, from the palest blue green to deep
emerald hue. Naturally a woman will
select the shade that Is most peculiarly
becoming to her individual style and color
ing but unusual care must be taken in Its
selection. as. large as is the field, 1t 10
more possible to go astray and select a
wrong shade in green than is the case with
any other color. In all the other colors
there are the same old shades fashionable
season after season, as we'll the peculiar
tones which Dame Fashion picks out each
season and honors with special approval
Yellow and mauve are two colors that
are enjoying unusual popularity at the
moment. but the latter. while 80 much In
demand for morning and afternoon cos
tunes. is not good evening shade. and 1t
is very seldom that one notices an effective
mauve. lavender or purple ball gown.
Bead work. embroidery and lace en-
broidered-or one might say embellished-
with tiny balls and crystals Of fine glass.
lace and, while expensive, a little of this
work goes a long way in effect. The loose
klmono sleeve has done away temporarily
with the lace bertha. but on the surplice
or little diamond-shaped gumpe which Is
now seen in front and back Of so many
low cut bodices there is ample space for
lace or embroidery of all kinds There Is
certain style Of gown made up in soft
silk satin that Is just extremely
smart and for its effect depends mainly
upon its very simplicity. for the skirt Is
long and graceful, but quite untrimmed.
being swung from tightly draped empire
belt or girdle that Is carried down I'M
usually far in front-far down. that Is. for
an empire model-while even in back the
line Is In no way exaggerated The upper
part Of the waist Is of chiffon the exact
shade of the silk, but the surplice. falling
over the chiffon and lace puff. Is of satin
bordered with a narrow band Of beadwork
embroidery. In front ia little vest Of lace
either plain or embroidered. and the back
of the waist is much like the front, save
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28

tunes in cool, pale colorings that are so
especially appropriate to young girls and
there are the soft silks and satins that are
necessary for the girl whose engagement
calendar Is kept Allied. for there must al
ways be some useful gowns for the sudden
emergencies. Dinner gowns for the younger
members Of society who are not permitted
the comfort Of tea gown are especially
attractive this year. for in this field are
seen all the dainty Powered organizes and
lawns that are so attractive and yet are
not quite handsome enough for ball gowns.
One exceptionally pretty. dinner frock Of
this seasons model was OF white organdie
with large pink rose pattern, the ma
terial made up over perfectly fitting pink
princess silk lining, although separate from
1T. so that the slip might be worn with
other gowns and the dress itself worn over
white II desired for the sake of variety,
the gown decidedly empire. made with a
square decoiletage trifie higher than the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28
Directions for Washing
Delicate Chiffon Wells

To wash chiffon wells use warm water
and ivory soap; squeeze with the fingers
until all soil has disappeared. then rinse
in warm clear water and pin out on the
bed or other convenient place to dry. 1t
will then be found equal to new. No IRON
ing should DO done. The chiffon may take
on creepy appearance. but this will only
render 1t more attractive. Do not attempt
To remove 1t by pressing. Black wells may
be successfully renewed by being given a
bath OF naDhtha or alcohol This dries so
quickly that II may be accomplished while
the fingers just shaping the veil. The
black net wells. or, in fact. any net veil.
may be made TO last twice long II a
thread is run top and bottom through the
little loops Chat are seen on both edges)
In over-scam stitch. This applies to
nets OF good quality. they always
stretch-a cheap one will tear. rather-and
the stitching should be done before the veil
is worn even once. There should be no
gathering or drawing but the thread
should be as long as the Veil. At first the
virtue of this will not be seen, but later
on. when the part over the face has
stretched. this thread-that properly set in
will be quite inYfSibe-will be found to keen
the edges firm and the veil trim-Iooki ing
both on the hat and below. Every one has
been troubled at some time or another with
the veil that falls OFF the brim in front
simply because the edge has stretched
This is entirely obviated by the thread
Another vexation Is the stain around the
mouth caused by moisture.
In the case of very cheap wells there is
no remedy except by washing entirely. II.
however. the color becomes changed when
a fair price has been paid there Is some
thing wrong with the dye. and II returned
10 the store where bought may be ex-
changed for a perfect veil. Little loose
threads should be clipped whenever they
appear. and. needless to say. all wells will
last longer IL carefully folded or rolled and
put away after each wearing
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28
1ments for Charity Fashionable in Sumner Months

reticules and work bags which were often
such marvels Of ingenuity in planning as
we'll as skill In sewing. Then. too, the
tapestry pictures will be a legitimate part
OF the show. and there are in many an old
chest dainty bead chains. watch fobs, belts
and purses SO brilliantly beautiful as to
put to shame almost all those Of modern
manufacture.
All of the pieces which go to make up
the exhibition may be displayed in a sum-
mer home. an arbor or tent or on the
verandas Of country house. They may
be shown In glass cases II small and
precious or hung or the walls II large
enough. Antique costumes will also form
a proper part Of such an exhibition
OF course. the exhibition Is only the
raison detre of the afternoons gathering
Apart from that there must be a social in
tercourse, refreshments. etc. 1t is neces-
sary that the exhibition should take place
where there are large enough grounds for
the company to distribute itself over the
lawns and through the gardens. finding
comfortable spots in which to have tea and
gossip after the exhibition has been sui
flciently enjoyed.
A loan exhibition of needlework has the
great advantage of arousing widespread
interest because almost every one has some
thing to show. There is hardly a household
without some relic of this sort. and the
many exhibitors will naturally be among
those in attendance. The exhibitors would
OF course. expect to pay admission at such
an affair. There should also be extra
charges for refreshments
For a summer colony which contains a
number of rich families an exhibition of
antique jewelry will also be found very
interesting. Nowadays there is such a
craze for the antique in Jewels that almost
all women possess several pieces. which
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28

vt seems a pity that the fascinatingly
pretty summer materials, organizes,
printed mousselines, soft French
II muils, etc. are no longer fashionable
for evening gowns for midsummer.
Apart from the fact that the sheer wash
fabrics are so delightfully."- cool and com
Portable to wear. they look so appropriate
al this time of year and are in every way
so appropriate that it would seem as
though Dame Fashion were surely making
Il gross mistake in allowing the heavy
silks and satIns to be worn and Of having
so little TO diff rentiate between an opera
costume and summer ball dress. Just
now, however. such is the case, and the
debutante only is allowed a pretty organde
or point d'esprit frock and this must be
interchanged with costume of satin and
heavy silk. For informal home dinners
simple frocks of dainty lowered and printed
muslins are permitted but even the all
white gowns must now be made with guam
titles of costly lace and rare embroidery
80 that with the necessary ribbon sash
and bows all possible idea Of a wash dress
is completely lost
Fortunately, 1t is always possible to
moderate the prevailing fashions to GER
tain extent and even when heavy gowns
are decreed for midsummer the style and
material of the dress can be somewhat
altered. while the main points are still ad-
hered to faithfully. A thin lining will make
considerable difference with a silk gown
and there are many soft silks and satins
which are really quite light and cool. and
Of course. have the advantage that they
give far more satisfactory wear and can be
kept In much better trim than the sheer.
perishable summer fabrics. Then of
course. chiffon. nousseline de sole. net and
crystalline are in fashion the year round
and can be trimmed with flowers and rib
bon work embroidery TO be sufficiently
handsome and sufficiently costly for any
ball. no matter how elaborate. and for
young girls this style OF dress is sure to
prove becoming. ard from its very apprO-
priateness keeps in vogue throughout all
fashions vagaries.
Plain satins and all the countless varieties
of satin finished silks are at present the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28

they would only be too glad to lend for
such purpose If they could be assured of
the safe keeping of the articles. In all
antique exhibitions. of course, the interest
Is greatly enhanced by the history Of the
article. If 1t be at all a romantic one. be-
Ing appended to the exhibit. To know who
made piece Of antique needlework or who
wore piece of antique jewelry, even II one
knows nothing much of those persons lives.
adds greatly to the interest Of seeing it.
Nothing Is more attractive for out Of
door entertainments than fancy dancing.
The most attractive scenes may be ar
ranged with young girls and children as
dancers. Often the dances Of a particu-
lar country are taken-peasant dances.
court dances, etc, When peasant dances
are chosen the appropriate costumes are
worn and the dancing Is done on a part
Of the lawn which looks most like a viii
lage green. The music. Of course, must
be characteristic, and the affair may be
made more charming by the serving of
characteristic refreshments at small tables.
served by boys and girls in the native Co.'S
tunes. similar to those worn by the
dancers. The hostess and host of a village
inn In Hungary. Bohemia or wherever the
dancing is taken from. may be represented
by an older man and woman, who should
have charge of the refreshments
If possible also 1t is attractive to have
scenery representing a village inn. This
must be some what in the background,
where It is partly concealed by shrub
berry. The inn may also be made from a
summer house by following an old picture
Of such a place in redecoratng it. hanging
out sign. etc. The spectators of the
dances may sit at benches or the
ground. on rugs. etc, or on wooden stools
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28

round yellow cap, with green stockings and
slippers. The pansy Is best in purple and
yellow, and should be trimmed with purple
velvet ribbons. The entire dress may be of
yellow crepe paper with a purple cap and
purple velvet bodice and short sleeves.
For charitable entertainment in the
summer nothing Is more lucrative than
an afternoon Of mysteries, or. perhaps 1t
might be an evening. In a large garden
where there are out-of-the-way corners,
several little summer houses arbors. 1t
ID especially attractive. Either profes-
sional fortune tellers should be secured or
really good amateurs, for the fortune teiiing
should be done with some authority II IS
a good Idea to give the privilege OF going
to all the fortune tellers for one admission
fee instead Of charging smaller fees for
each one The profes sional fortune teller
will usually accept percentage as recon-
pense but when the bargain Is made it Is
necessary to demand that certain speci-
fed time be given to each person, otherwise
the fortune teller may become careless and
Indifferent. The patron of the afternoon of
mysteries finds some one to tell her fortune
in all the little hooks and summer houses
Each fortune teller has a different method
one telling the fortune by palmistry. one by
the cards. one by the crystal ball and one
by phrenology.
1t Is very amusing to have all this done
in one afternoon. and when a large crowd
of persons are all engaged in the same
diversion. 1t is better, If possible, to have
skilled amateurs than professionals for
such an occasion.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28

borders and large rose designs on the
upper part Of the skirt continue to be popu-
lar and make up particularly well when
there L. a suggestion Of the picturesque
desired.
For the debutante Of last winter and
the sweet girl graduate who Is to make
her formal bow to society during the COM
ing year there are many exquisitely pretty
designs from which to select her summer
ball gowns. There are adorable confec-
tons of silk organdie so trimmed with
insertions and founces Of valenciennes lace
that she will not feel too youthfully gowned
chat terror Of the really young; there are
tulle and point d'esprit frocks with trim
mings OF maidenhair fern and white lilacs
or tiny rosebuds: there are batiste dresses
heavily incrusted with hand-embroidery and
with Irish and valenciennes lace effectively
combined; there are the soft chiffon. cos
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28
\ENGFl15E

regulation evening waist. The kimono
sleeves were caught down under the grdle
ct dreped pink silk ribbon placed up high
on the bodice-some distance higher up
than one sees many empire gowns today.
The sleeves were bordered with q bias fold
Of pink silk and fell over a puff formed of
ruffies Of lace, the rufles being tackled here
and there to the lace cape, which reached
almost to the elbow The three-cornersd
space left between the sleeves the
bodice was filed in front and back with
chiffon vest. on which were lad narrow
rufdes Of lace. The girdle was draped in
back and fastened in tight rosette, from
which long ribbon streamers fell almost
to the end Of the skirt. The skirt itself
was not very full about the waist and
hips, the fitted lining being quite d:scernible
through the transparent material, but from
below the knees there was considerable
fare. and three folds of silk like that on
the waist helped to keep the organdie from
olinging ungracefully about the feet. The
skirt was just long enough to be becoming,
just touching the floor in front and gradu-
ated gracefully toward the back
Tea gowns have become quite an i'm
portant part Of a summer outfit, and in
some trousseaux more is expended upon
these costumes than upon the handsomest
ball gowns. There are simple tea gowns
as well, but 1t Is not easy to practice any
economy this dress. for. first of all, 1t
must be graceful in every line, and then
1T is equally important that 1t be perfectly
fitted, and. strange as it may seem to the
uninitiated, a badly fitting tea gown is
even more unattractive to look upon than
any other style of dress that has not been
made and draped by the hand of an artist.
The sort Of tea gown that is worn as a
sort Of half neglige in the afternoon Is
quite different from the dress that is per-
mitted for informal evening wear. The
evening tea gown is cut lower in the neck
for one thing, and is more elaborate and
made on the order Of a dinner dress. al
though it's loose lines make 1t understood
that the gown is not to be worn away from
home no matter how informal a gathering
may be. Perhaps the most attractive of all
the gowns are Of chiffon. white or some
delicate shade of pink. blue or mauve. with
long lace coat over the chiffon foundation.
The coat hangs quite loose from the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28

Let us be generous of our dignity as well
as of our money. Greatness. once and for
ever has done with opnion.-Emerson.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28

loan exhibition of almost any sort
will be found drawing card to a sum-
mer colony in almost any place Every
one at summer resort may join in a
charitable affair. even II they belong to
different sets socially and are not in the
habit of meeting at other affairs.
1t will be found that In almost any coun-
try neighborhood a loan collection can be
gathered together that will be most inter-
esting and attractive along the lines of
antique needlework Needlework is so fash
ionable today that almost all women find
pleasure in examining the work of former
generations in the same lines. The exhi-
bition may include showing of those
fascinating quilts In the making of which
our ancestresses were such adopts the
samples which are treasured in all old
American families. the hand-embroidered
sleeves. hchus. skirts and fuckers in which
the bellies OF long ago took such pride, the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28

~ URING the summer at the watering
places there are usually many occa-
sions when 1t is desired to do some
thing in the way of securing funds for
some charitable institution. Usually the
women who stop at the large hotels in the
summer resorts do much to support the
local charities and the churches during the
months which they spend at the resort
The garden party in many forms Is the
chief resource Of those who wish to raise
money for charity during the summer,
But in order to make a sufficiently inter-
esting entertainment to bring out large
number of persons 1t is necessary to have
number Of definite kinds Of entertain
ment which will attract those persons In
search of novelty who do not find a garden
afternoon with tea and perhaps tennis SUI
ficently alluring
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-28

Plain satins and all the countless varieties
of satin finished silks are at present the
The Virginia enterprise., 1907-11-29
Changes that Strike One.

AFTER ALL" said the Southerner on
a visit to New York, cts on the per-
sonal side that the impression of New
York's bigness is registered. The oc-
casional visitor sees skyscrapers 60
ing up, notes a bit more hustle and
confusion about the streets, and, if
his journeyings lead him that way, OBJ
serves whole new sections being de-
veloped. But these things only pro-
duce vague idea of immensity: It
is when he goes into the hotel he u.s.
ually patronizes or into the place Of
business where he is accustomed to
have dealings and sees new faces
among the employees, missing, at the
same time, many familiar ones, that
he is sensible of the constant changes
which are more 7or less necessary
accompaniment to immensity. There
are so many units here and so many
forces operating on them that rear
rangement is the natural order. And,
it's the multiplicity Of these little, con-
crete instances Exchanges in person.
mel that makes man appreciate the
forces at work." - y. =. '>s.s'