The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-21
REAL RUSSIAN CHIE HERE
CHE MEANING TEA AND ALSO
A PLACE TO DRINK TT.

h East Side - Add Another 20 Its List Of
Cafes Of All Nations Dishes with Tin.
P-r0nouneeable Names and singers n
Dancers 70 Entertain h visitors.
Something new will be added to the oos
~unopolitan life Of this city when the doors
Of a Russian chic" are thrown open to-
morrow night. The new establishment 10
at the southwest corner Of Grand and Allen
streets, and the restaurant and tea cafe
take up the entire second floor. h place
can seat more than 800 people.
In httingup the place the promoters have
copied the Cafe Comerchesky In Odessa.
A head waiter who worked In that Russian
establishment has been imported to fill
the same Office here. For the opening
tomorrow night q number Of prominent
Russians In this city have been invited.
Among them are Count de Lodygensky,
the Russian Consul General; a Russian priest
who will offer some sort Of Russian invooa-
ton and Coroner julius Hamburger. The
latter will not come in his ofloial capacity.
but merely because he is 90 well known
on the East Side.
The tea HOUSE is something Of an institu-
ton In Russian cities, and Frank N%udelman,
who 10 head Of a group tha has fitted
out this new place. thinks that the new
place will 60 big here. The establishment
has an enoi .uUus name placarded over the
front Of 1t in Russian, but It all means Cafe
Enterprise, and as suoh the place 10 TO be
known. The Cafe Enterprise Is TO be nev
closed. An all night liquor h~oense-they
are going to sell all sorts Of Russian drinks
has been occurred.
The dining room OF the establishment
IL located on the east side Of the building:
Here the electric hghts will be concealed
which give the place a harvest home eject.
Running parallel with the structure OF the
Second venue elevated railway is the chic
that means tea. In this. q long, spacious
room with tables grouped In all sorts OF
ways, will be ssen the true Russian idea
OF amusement.
Head waiter 0otthelf, who comes from
the Odessa tea house, will preside here
and initiate the uninitiated into the manner
Of Russian eating and drinking. There
nounced "wudkee'-and Riga-Balsaam,, a
Russian bitters used in havoring and the
making Of Russian mixed drinks. Manager
Nudelman said yesterday that this Higa-
Balsaam was a fine thing for the tomaoh'
The stuff tastes as II, administered hypo-
d~ermioally, it might make Sea Robber or
May j. win a Suburban. They have some
is7 proof wudkee that will curl hair. Then
there are TO be had for the a~sking-and
~paying-ekauer, sllasch and no end OF
Russian beverages.
The main thing in this 'chie' lie the chic
itself. II seems that the Russians delight
in gathering about a table and consuming
chic until the late hours. For 10 cents. q
pot Of tea 10 70 be served In Russian style.
The tea is drawn from huge copper urn
boilers that stand at one end Of the cafe.
1t ia served TO each individual customer
in q large earthen pot. The chic is poured
in a tail glass that is set within a hin
bowl, 1t was explained that when one
you needn't be in q hurry, for the bowl
catches 10 and you can drink what's in the
bow when you have exhausted the con-
tents OF the pot. The pot holds sufficient
The tea house lie not alone a place for
eating and drinking. Other things go
with all this and no extra charge. In the
Grand street end Of the cafe is an enormous
orchestrion that has been imported. II
will play nothing but Russian airs. In the
dining room there will be a Russian Or
chestra, and oavorting among the tables
in the chile the management announces,
there will be Russian flower girls and
dancers, not TO mention Russian singers.
Two menu cards, one in English n the
other Russian. are TO be provided. No
attempt will be made to have some Of the
Russian dishes translated into plain New
Yorkese. Head Waiter Gotthelf explained
that II would take a Dill OF rare the size OF
a newspaper 20 correctly inform the patrons
Just what constituted come Of the Russian
pieces de resistance. A great thing with
the Russians appears 20 be things Solianka.
This means a sort of saute or garnishing
that is OF great decorative effect and OF
high splicing. "Ruekian S~olianka' is a cut
let done up much like q Spanish ornelet.
Then there is Solianka Ribnaia. This is
a fish s~oliankaed.
The head waiter predicts that the local
Bohemians will be won by "Borshtz Russky,"
a heavy soup. the basis Of which is red
beets, with no end OF other things Joined
in. II is said that a plate Of this soup Is
Russian Hamburger steak, while a much
favored d~elicacy is @Piroge us maison,'
Now the only way Of explaining this is
to say that il lie a Russian duplicate OF an
Italian ~raviola, and II you don't know what
a raviola is there lie no use trying to e1-
plain, for no one can explain the mysteries
Of a ~raviola.