The daily morning journal and courier., 1907-05-07
NEWS CLOTHING OF
 FIFTY YEARS AGO Swell Dresser's Effects of Half a Century Ago
 Ludicrous. GAY HUEs PREVAILED Swallow Tails, Patent Leath- CTS and Fancy Vests
 in Vogue.

The men of fifty years ago who were
 loyal subjects of Dame Fashion com
 pare with the swell dressers"sof to-
 day about as bird of paradise does
 with a cock robin, say the American
 Tailor and Cutter. Olive green, blue
 and blue with purple tinge were pop
 ular colors for the >dresscoat. Scott,
 in 1854 illustrated dresscoait of Prus-
 sian blue, which had large, plain gilt buttons in front and at the back, and
 double sleeve buttons of gold set with
 precious stones worth several hundred
 dollars
 The favorite dress vest for 1855 was
 made from stone colored satin, on
 which, embroidered in silver, were
 wreaths of grape leaves and bunch
 of grapes or pea leaves and flowers
 of natural colors, embroidered in silk, or delicate vines ornamental with moss rroses, lilies and violets. The buttons Aswere sometimes leach formed of Acluster of brilliants or rubes, or an as- sortment of precious stones mixed in
 the setting, according to taste" Un-
 less the coat was black, the trousers were pearl drab.
 For half dress the favorite dress col ors for the coat were wark purple,
 dark brown with an olive nuance," cherry color, olive green and purple brown. The collar, facings and cuffs were often of velvet to match the color of the cloth. The vest, generally dou- ble breasted, was made from salmon Acolored cashmere of Valencia, or rich, GuAelicately tinted silk plush with darker fisSgures in various colors, or from a faltncy silk--drab scarlet and emerald beFAng favorltes.
 Jgrhe buttons were fatfaced, round or oval shaped cameos, clustered gold rfngs, painted porcelain, agate precious Sstones set in gold and silver. The prousers were, Scott says, tight and tidy, falling with ineffable grace upon Sa patent leather boot or low quartered fshoe and beautiful stockings of silk the buttons showing the slight and graceful curve of well-turned instep." Apple green and golden browns were popular, and dove colors, neutral tints and burnt umber brown were we'll lik- ed. The exclusive novelties" were bor- dered cassimeres the border sometimes being three inches wide
 For business wear the coat and trou. sers were made from mixtures of light shades. The buttons were generally of ivory or pearl, gold mounted, to match the color of the cloth. The vest was made from a. high colored purple, iT11c opo11 plush, cashmere or Valencia, and trim med with gold mounted pearl buttons or with needle wrought brocade and velvet buttons in the shades and fig ures to nearly match the goods of the vest" |
 The opera cloak, generally made from l a dark blue, was the favorite over | garment for evening wear. It had a | narrow standing collar, closed as a | rule, with cord and tassel, and exten- ded to the knee.
 About the only overcoats worn fifty | years ago were the surtout and the Grecian sack the latter a loose box. These were made from olive green, ol- i've browns, vandyke browns and bronze shades of beaver pilot cloth. The Gre clan sack was very popular. Scott said of 1t in 1858, when it's popularity was at it's height: "The Grecian sack is the only male garment of the ancients that has reached us through the line of civ- Nization without loss to it's distinctive character The color most in favor was very dark olive green. The col lar and cuffs were of velvet and the Things were "quiIetd in diamonds through cotton or woolen wadding and 1nterlining"
 It is interesting to note that in 1860 the black swallow tail coat and trous- CTS, with a white vest for the first time became the only unimpeachable correct suit for evening dress. "The blue dress coat" Scott says, in his spring and summer report of that year, "is pas en regle, but is admissible for almost every convivial occasion"
 In 1S60-61-62, fancy vestings were ev- en more popular than they are now, and were more fancy. For winter wear woolen velvets were the favorites. These beautiful vestings were similar ito uncut silk velvets, and were so thick as to necesitate a bound buttonhole. l The surface was as rich and soft as the nnest sable. Many of them were uncut, ]