davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1907-09-01

A glance at the modes Of the autumn
and one Is Instantly impressed with the
abundance of trimmings, their variety
and the novelty of their disposition on,
garments Of every class, from the sim
plest of house gowns to the most elabo..
rate evening toilette.
In the tailored suits Of coat and skirt
formation braid trim mings feature strong
~. This applies more generally to the
sc mi dressy suits of the three-Quarters
lengths, many of which show the long
directoire vest, not infrequently SO heav-
lily encrusted with bralds-sometime as,
many as three and four different kinds
and coors--as to almost completely cover.
the silk, velvet or cloth background.
In the very high class ,mode suits tho
amount of braid used is such US TO mako
the suit conspicuous In this one If no.
other feature. Hercules Ii often com
bined very satisfactorily With soutnche,
the former following the design and the
soutache outlining as 1t were the wider
trimming,
When soutache Is used alone snd in
any quantity Il very pleasing effect Is
gained by posing it on the side, as we'll
as fiat. French couturieres We're the first
4 to make such use OF this simple trim
usual not been slow In adopting u clever
idea. II ill.,
Il Costumes of silk. fine light weight
cloth, lansdownel and such dressy fabrics
find some of their. most effective trim.
ming schemes In novel uses Of silk SOU
stnche. II is applied In geometrical de-
signs, fiat and on the side, and buttons
and Beautiful pendant ornaments are
made Of IT, There is practically no end
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1907-09-01

simulated collar OF brown velvet and the
sleeves are cutfed with the serge and
trimmed with buttons, The length OF
this coat is that considered correct for
Oil separate garments this season,
A ueimore Top Coat.
Various models is nobby top coats for
the ensuing fall and winter are already
being shown, and perhaps the most at
tractlye of these are the beln,ore, a gar
ment OF three-quarters length With semi-
fitting back, the waistllne OF which Is
dropped about three Inches below tho
natural wiiIstiine. giving the back OF the
garment a very mRnnish effect and one
which is striknigly becoming TO slender
figures. These. coats are seen In all sorta
4 OF novelty fabrics used In plain tailored
suits and separate coats this season.
The sktbo serges In their novelty mix
lures are specially smart. Being 81
yerely tailored garment, tha sleeves are
long ard moderately full, tho fronis
double breasted and the neck having 4
turnover notched collar like mana
coat.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1907-09-01

How Hath the Mighty Fallen? The
Teddy Bears that in January posed in
the most exclusive shops and were 10 be
ing wagoncded about the streets by sand
wlch men, glorious!y tied to the sand
wich boards and plainly marked for sale
Mt very small fraction Of their earlier
valuations. Not that the Teddy Bear has
lost favor at all--indeed, 1t seems to be:
growing in popularity with the smaller
folks. 1t Is simply that the manufacturer
has gotten wise" to the demand, and is
making enough teddys to provide these
must look for their joys ut small prices.
= Candle Shades of hammered brass In
simple but artistic patterns laid In sec.
tons and clevery Joined cost $500 and
$500 each. Matching shades for the
lamp or chandelier where the lights are
closely grouped. are made from the same
steel, little larger and Tapped In the
same way. These brass shades are used
on the dining table, although they would
hardly be suitable where one must de-
pend on one set OF shades for all occa-
slons.
A Curious Arrangement of stripes
In shown In an imported model. The
fabric is blue batlste in one OF the
many shades known rs Alice. white
stripe appears at Intervals of half an
inch, the stripe being raised like cord.
The skirt of the costume shows the
fabric with the stripes running up and
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1907-09-01
Utility Garments That Find Many Uses
Loose-Fhting and Semi Fitting Models
Both Popular Few Trimmings
Dressy Day Wraps Sleeve
Lengths and Sizes.

as II does all the popular features CT
re'gnng modes. 1t has the large manda-
rim armhols which all designers are using
in coats and suits as we'll as costumes
and separate waists this year, and large
full sleeves that widen the shoulder line
to fashionable proportions, The godet
skirt, prophesied for costumes at later
date, is very pronounced In this model
fitting smoothly In the front and over the
hips and ripping gracefully around back
and sides. There Is certain grace and
dash to this model which presages its
popularity very early In the season. Like
the ulster 1t is adaptable to many uses
and with the proper costume and aces.
series will be equally as smart In the
motor car as when the wearer travels
afoot.
The subject of materials Is one that is
very interesting this year. Novelty
fabrics have undoubtedly found first
place In utility garments. The novelty
serges and cheviots in dark color combi.
nations make the handsomest garments,
with perhaps touch Of plain cloth,
silk or velvet In collar and cuffs. and
little motifs sometimes combined with
bits Of beautiful braids and buttons.
Broken stripes and checks are better
style thnn definite patterns and indefinite
Scotch mixtures are In high favor with
the best makers both here and in France.
Dressy Afternoon Garm nts.
Dressy coats for daytime wear with
elaborate reception. calling and matinee
gowns, are very handsome in fabric,
graceful In cut and artistic in trimming
The long black marchioness which serves
the dual purpose of day and evening
wrap In many wardrobes, Is more fash.
tonabe than ever this season. Its shape
has been altered only to make 1t more
graceful, and Its trimming adds the touch
necessary to make 1t garment Of
fashion.
Sleeve Lengths.
In the utility coats sleeves are one and
MI long, though they differ In size and
IN form Of cuff treatment. In some the
Sfulness is pleated In to form cuff,
again the bishop sleeve is gathered into
high novel shaped cuff, and still an
other model Is the medium sized leg o.
mutton or coat sleeve finished with sim.
pie turnback cuff.
In dressler garments the shorter sleeve
Is used. It Is, however, several Inches
longer than Inst yenr md n trifle smaller,
It's shaping Is frequently very novel, be-
ing made to accompany the exaggerated
armhole which characterlzes many of
these garments as the dernier cri In
coatdom, In some instances the sleeve
is part ofsthe coat body, being cut In
one with It, This form of the Japanese
idea which harks back some twenty years
when the dolman was In vogue, is, how
lever too extreme to be generally adopted
as yet, except in very high class garments.
1t will In all probability become popular
1xts nplft tfc,
good 'graces as inslduousy as have all
the other modes of the day.
1T is estimated that between TO ana so
per cent. of the cotton fabrics sent IL
HChinaaby the United States are mauufac.
tured by Southern MILLS, and that the re-
&muining 20 to 80 per cent are made by
New England mills. !.
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1907-09-01

Though the tailormade costume has as
,umed an enytable position In the feni-
nine wardrobe of to-day, 1t has not sue
ceeded TO the point Of ousting the sepa-
rate coat. or rather coats, for there are
a variety OF models created for the occa.
sions which demand n garment OF this
nature.
The newest ideas this season follow ont
the tendency to plain tailored effects
which characterizes the suit models for
fall and winter These, of course. nre
garments intended for general wear
walking motoring and travelling. In fact
one garment, carefully selected may be
made to answer for all three of these
uses and Ia each appear exactly suited
TO the occasion.
The scrviceable Ulster.
The loose fitting ulster of some dark
colored fabric developed in the new length
which covers all but the hem OF the
dress skirt makes a capital rainy-day gar
ment. For travelling such coat Is we'll
nigh Indispensable, when 1t may be worn
with q smart walking skirt and shirt
waist or one of those smart little one
piece frocks Of silk or light weight
worsted which are to be so fashionable
this season. In colder climates and on
sea trips the value of such coat Will be
much appreciated, for 1t may be easily
slipped over any amount OF other Goth
ing without giving the least effect Of
bulkiness.
Many of the new loose fitting coats are
cut with bias centre back seam which
gives a particularly graceful fitness to
the coat skirts with nm easy smooth fit
over the shoulders, There is one model
which makes an especially clever use of
the material in its trimming. Two broad
bands, each about three Inches wide. and
one overlapping the other are posed over
the shoulders from hem to hem and ex.
tend over the sleeve like the pleat in.
the Gibson shirtwaist.
trimmings.
Self trimmings are feature of listers
and top coats. Braids, though highly IA.
vored for tailored costumes and dresses.
find limited use In these separate gar.
ments.
We do not see much of the hood this
year, even in automobile garments. but
hood effects are apparent In many models.
the Idea being carried out with stitched
bands of the coat material. and very
often emphasized with cloth covered but.
tons.
New shapes.
While the separate coat built for utll-
ity may be said to be generally loose At-
ting, there are, however, some models OF
the semi-atting type which are very pro.
nounced In their beautiful shaping They
are double and single breasted. n,arla-
bly, haye long sleeves and are conspicu-
GUS for their beautiful lines and limited
amount of trimming. One Of these shows
very long waist In the back like the
masculine Chesterfield top coat. This is
extremely becoming to slender figures,
but should not ibe attempted by the
woman inclined to ayolrdupois. unless she
have height to carry tt Off There is still
another model forS the. slender figure
which Is unusually attractive, embodying
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1907-04-29
THE PACIFIC COMMERCIAL ADVERTISER. HONOLULU. APRIL 40 1907
THE FORESTERS
HAVE GOOD TIME
Two Lodges Celebrate Jointly
in San Antonio's Big
Hall.

San Antonio Hall was the scene of
great gayety on Friday evening, the
occasion being the grand ball given
jointly by Court Canoes No. S1lO and
Canoes Circle No. 240, in commemora-
ton of the fourteenth and second an
niversaries of these respective lodges
of the Ancient Order of Foresters.
The ballroom was artistically decor
ated with greenery and flags, the walls
being literally covered with green
leaves; pots of plants distributed
around the room gave it the appearance
of a forest scene.
An arched enclosure, the work of
Brother NJ. d. Freitas, erected for re-
ceiving the chief companion and chief
ranger during their speech-making, was
one of the marked features of the dec
orations.
After the Introductory remarks made
by the chief companion, Mrs. H. H.
Williams and the opening address by
past chief ranger Brother M. C.. Pa
checo, the soft, sweet strains of music
by the Pacific Glee Club, announced
the time for the opening of the ball
with the grand march, the leading
couples being Mr.. and Mrs. H. III. Will
liams, Mrs. G. FL. Bergstrom and Mr..
A. K. Vierra.
There were about fifty cosples on
the floor, the combined attendance over
taxing the capacity of the hall.
There were musical and vocal selec-
ton rendered between dances which
were greatly appreciated.
Following was the program:
Piano Solo-Miss Ida Fernandes.
Piano Duet-Misses C. G~onsalves and
L. Dinklage.
Piano Solo-Miss Lena Boyd.
Vocal Selection-Medeiros sisters.
Violin-Piano-Misses A. Gonsalves
and l.. Dinklage.
Vocal Solo-F. May.
Ocarina-Piano-H. Chiffon, and
Miss M. F. Chiffon.
observation-disclosures Medeiros.
Mandolin - Guitar = Messrs. Ernest
Gonsalves.
Between dances coffee and sand
ice cream and cake, lemonade
and punch were served and all who at
tended enjoyed to their hearts content
the first joint celebration of Foresters'
held in Honolulu.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1907-04-29
HONOLULU STOCK EXCHANGE
Honolulu. saturday, April -. 1907.
100000 iloO $40

6pitai.
aid Up Val. Bid Ask
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1907-04-29
SHIPPING INTELLIGENCE.
ARRIVED.

ARRIVED.
Sunday, April Is.
Str. w. G. Hall, Thompson, from
Kauai ports, 4:10 a. m.
Str. Iwalani, Piltz, from Molokai,
AS a. m.
schr. Ada, from Maui ports, $3.50
Str. Kauai. SAKE, from Hilo. $50
p. m. . al
Saturday, April 27.
Br. S. S. Heliopolis, from off port, Z
a. m.
Str. Helene, from Hawaii, $3.50 a. m.
Str. Kinau, Freeman, from Hilo, $50
a.. m.
Str. Noeau, Peterson, from Hawaii,
1915 p. m.
Yacht La Paloma, Macfarlane, from
Pearl City, 1915 p. m.
Str. J.. "A. Cummins, Searle, from
Waimanalo, $50 p. m.
Str. Likelike, Naopaia, from Mo1okai,
IL midnight.
Str. Ke Au Hou, Tullett, from Kau-
al, 7:25 a. m.
DEPARTED.
Saturday, April 81.
Str. j. A. Cummins, Searle, for Wal
manalo, $50 a.. m
Sunday, April %.
Br. So. Loeb Carve, Rouse, towed
outside to anchorage. $3.50 a. m.
PASSENGERS.
Arrived.
Per str. Helene from Hawaii ports,
April PA. w. Carter.
Per str. Noeau, from Hawaii ports,
April 27.-W. M. Rockies.
Per str. Kinau, from Hilo. April q.
John Scott, John T. Moir, I'll. Wears,
A. Lindsay, w. A. Todd, I. G. Thrum,
M. M. Graham, M. r. Jameson, c.. S.
Schultz, w. S. Easton, A. r. Monroe, A.
Richley, Miss Morine, III. w. Snow,
Mrs. A. S. Inman, E. de Silva, Miss
Canaris, Rev. S. L. Desha, w. Motto
shige, j. Yamaka, w. Thompson, J.
Balch, Mrs. NJ. K. Holstein, E. M.
Campbell, B. Palama, Mrs. f. A. ANA
III, Miss E. Kanehaku, Mrs. J. c. Mo-
cine, Mrs. A. r. Monroe, Master G..
Amalu, Rev. K. Y. Tit, Mr.. Aukawa,
Miss i. Hansen, III. E. Picker, J. B.
Thompson, w. r. Pittenger, c. T. Will
der, c. M. Lovsted, G. Hoy, H. M. Git
tel. c. l.. Kookoo.
Per str. w. G.. Hall, from Kauai
ports, April 28.-S. Sheba, A. D. Hills,
B. Waggoner, S. Splitter, Mrs. Hager-
man and child, Ewai and daughter, |
Kew. h. S. Timoteo, Rev. 0. Fl. Gulick,
MRS. Christ, Mrs. E. Palmer, w. Fish
er and wife, E. L. Hadley, W. Bush
and wife, K. Mitani and wife, |
Chong Hing, Au Hing Chong, Miyamo-
and wife, and IS deck.
VESSELS IN PORT.
(Army and Navy.
8. R. c. Manning, Joynes, Kama
10, March 8.
Merchant -Assete.j
S. S. Alameda, Dowdell, San Fran
cisco, April 26.
bk- Adderly, Berquist, Newcastle.
April q.
Br. S. S. Heliopolis, Malaga, April 26.
Am. blk George Curtis, Herbert, San
Francisco, April s.
ship Loeb Carve, Richie, Nitrate
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1907-04-29
FOUND.

ports, via Kamalo, March s.
Am. bktn. Irmgard, Schmidt, Gray's
Harbor, April IA.
Am. bktn. Mary Winkelman. Eureka,
March %.
Gable S. S. Restorer, Combe, Esquimalt,
March 81.
TRANSPORT SERvrCE.
Thomas, sailed from Honolulu, March
IA for Guam and Manila.
Logan, due from Manila, May 5.
Buford, sails from a Francisco, April
so, for Honolulu and Manila.
Sherman, sailed from Honolulu April
IA, for Manila.
Sheridan. at San Francisco.
Dix, sailed from San Francisco for
Manila on April 9.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1907-04-29
TO SMALL HOMESEEKERS.

An exceptional chance for good. cheap
lots in a desirable locationi
I am Offering for quick sale a limited
number Of fine lots on Kalihi road.
opposite Kamehameha Boys School
g minutes walk from a line): ac-
knowledged as the coolest and most
desirable portion of Kalihi. The prices
of the lots are from $500 10 1915 each,
according to location and size. a little
more than one-half OF the prices here
tofore obtained. on terms as follows:
$50 down, balance in installment OF
$40 per lot per month. without interest
or 10 per cent. of for cash.
A q acre corner lot on K~apahulu
road, cleared and fenced, a few minutes
from a line. $3.50.
Also some very desirable. cheap Ka.
imuki lots.
]. II. sCHNACK.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1907-04-29

THE Ahupuaas of Pahoehoe and Kea-
liza II, situate at South Kona, Hawaii:
Area of list: 100 acres: area of 2nd:
1000 acres. Kapiolani Estate, Ltd.
77O2.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1907-04-29
TO LEASE.

KROEGER Piano, good as new, at 1174
Young street. Will sell cheap. 1852
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1907-04-29
TRANSPORT SERvTCE.
BORN.

MTRANDA-In this city, April 2S, 1907,
to Mr.. and Mrs. Arthur K. Miranda,
a daughter.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1907-04-29
TIDES, SUN AND MOON.

Full moon April 27th at 7:34 D. m.
The tides at Kahului and Hila occur
about one hour earlier than at Homo
lulu.
Hawaiian standard time is 10 hours
50 minutes slower than Greenwica
time, being that of the meridian of 757
degrees thirty minutes The time vbin-
tie blows at 1:30 p "a, which is the
same as Greenwich, 0 hours O minutes.
Sun and moon are for local time for
the whole group.
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1907-04-29
Advertisements
WANTED.

A CITY salesman for wholesale gro
Gerry. Addres ]. this office. 770s
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1907-04-29
METEOROLOGICAL RECORD.
Issued Every Sunday Morning py the
Local Office, u. s. Weather Bureau.

Note:--Barometer readings are cor
rected for temperature, instrumental
errors, and local gravity. and reduced
to sea level. Average cloudiness stated
in scale from 0 to 10. Direction of
wind Is prevailing direction during "a
hours ending at 8 p. m. Velocity of
wind is average velocity in miles per
hour. WIN. B. STOCKMAN.
Section Director,
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-20
FLOOD LOSSES ARE
GROWING HEAVY

CINCINNATI. Ohio, Jan. 1s.--With
the crest OF the flood not yet in sight
and q prospect Of near approach to
the loss Of February. 1S84. attempts
were made today TO estimate the losses
Of the city. The business houses which
are principally situated in the lowlands,
have suffered damage estimated at
100000 Many thousands viii be lost
by factories through enforced idleness
and unproductiveness and more than
10000 persons viii lose wages. Not
Jess than $4,000 persons have been
driven from their homes, most Of them
being forced 70 depend on charity for
their food and lodging.
Reports from river cities, both above
end below Cincinnati. continue to come
in with pleas for help and food. From
some Of the nearer flooded towns refu-
gees came 10 this city and are lodged
rever quarters can be found. Ports
rnSrth saw the breaking of the en-
bshkments and the people fed in terror
10 the highlsnds-a
The high water from the Scioto is
being added TO the food in the Ohio at
that point. that and the food from the
other tributaries holding back the reg
ular high water from higher up the
river so that the second rise seems sure
10 overtalze the main food and increase
SIS damage.
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-20
RICH MEN NAMED
IN INDICTMENTS

SALT LAKE CITY. Jan. 1s.-At the
offices Of the United States District At
torney and the United States Marshal.
ii was announced today that the indict-
ments returned yesterday by the Fed
eral Grand Jury included Charles W
Freed. a wealthy furniture merchant of
this city. and his son-in-law. Walter 7
Filler The latter is an engineer min.
ing expert and capitalist and is fden-
tilted with some of tho largest mining
and irrigation enterprises in Nevada.
Utah and Idaho.
Freed and Filler, in connection with
Don z. Robbins, mining expert, and
T. w. Senior, lawyer, who were ar
rested last night, are charged with
having defrauded the government i'm
connection with the location and pat
enting of large bodies of coal lands
near Huntington, Emery county, Utah.
The four defendants have arranged for
bonds in the sum of $4,000 each.
One other person was named in the
Indictment. but his identity will not be
made known until he is arrested.
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-20
JURY IN SHEA CASE
MAY DISAGREE

CHICAGO, jan 1s.--After a trial
lasting 40 days. the labor conspiracy
case involving Cornelius P. Shea, in
ternational president of the Teamsters
Union. and ten of his associate defend
ants, went TO the jury at 10:40 O'Clock
this morning. At late hour tonight
a verdict had not been reached.
The general impression IS that four
OF the jurors are holding out for ac-
quittal Judge Bali will remain in
court until midnight, awaiting a YER
dict.
The defendants were charged with
conspiracy TO injure the drivers of
Montgomery Ward & Co. during the
teamsters' strike IN the summer of
1905 The trial. which began Septem-
Der 10. is the longest in the history
Of the city OF Chicago. It was not un-
til November 20 that the jury was com
pleteo- Then three Of the defendants,
Albert Young, former president of the
teamsters organization. William Kelly
and Michael Murphy turned states evil
dence. The State used thirty witnesses
and the defense over 100 The cost
of the trial is estimated at nearly
500, 600.
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-20
ROOT AND LAUR|ER
GUT RED TAPE
SPECIAL DISPATCH TO THE CALL

OTTAWA. JAM 1s.-Secretary Root,
who arrived here this afternoon with
his wife and daughter. has already be-
gun to cut yards of red tape with Sir
Wilfred Laurier. They have to begin
all over again with problems compli-
Gated by the blundering Sir Mortimer
Durand. which was one reason for the
latter's recall.
When Earl Gray was in Washington
II was suggested that an arrangement
be effected to include King Edward
permission to deal straight across the
boundary and settle the questions in
controversy without sending them
through the circumlocution Office in
London. Sir Mortimer promised Presi-
dent Roosevelt when he went back to
England last spring to make this ar
rangement, but forgot his errand. and
when he returned was much surprised
that President Roosevelt and Secretary
Root should feel provo<xed about it.
Now questions are being quietly
taken up by the two premiers and
swiftly arranged, so that they can be
finally adjusted as soon as ambassador
Bryce takes hold.