davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-27
E1fE0CDERED
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gowns now being made up for the southern
trip. Black and white striped silk. as well
as the more transparent fabrics. are ex-
tremely fashionable, and the fashion has al
ways been popular because IT allows of the
introduction of some bright color If it is de-
sired. There are shades of blue or .cerise
used in this style of gown that are oddly
effective. but the color is only used In the
waist, the skirt being trimmed with fol00
Of the material, with bias bands of eithsT
white or black or with the introduction OF
lace entire deux. either white or black. The
possibilities in the combination of black and
white are, in fact. endless, and the only
danger to be avoided Is the too sharp cons
trast-having too much black or too much
white in one solid block rather than the
same amount of each.
Black lace gowns are more effective made
over white or colored Innings for then tho
design of the lace shows to better advan-
tage. The white lining Is the more generally
popular style-the safer, II may be said. for
1t requires good eye for color to determine
upon good shade of lining black having
a curiously dulling effect and at the same
time too vivid shade If the lining is crude
and unpleasng. Black and white striped
GAUGES, nets and voiles. are among the now
elites, and the stripes, If carefully arranged
are most becoming to the figure, while the
fashion Of wearing black velvet shows to
great advantage both in trimming and In q
band around the collar The black and white
striped transparent materials make up exc
ceptionally well also in the empire style
while big streamers of black satin or velvet
are picturesque. This last touch is not to
be rashly advocated. 1t is not generally
suitable-that is, it is only appropriate for
an afternoon gown that is elaborate In de.
sign and finish But then all picturesque
styles should be included In this rule How.
ever, more and more is dress being studied
science, and the question Of what is ap.
propriate and when receives most careful
consideration in the planning of any outfit
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-27
New Tallies for Gard Parties.

The liveliness of card parties and pro-
gressive games has been greatly accumulated
this winter by the novelty of some of the
tallies which have lately been originated.
Indeed. progressive games especially are too
easy and jolly means of entertaining
number of guests for them ever to grow old
fashioned. The tallies used always
matter of consideration. Decorated cards
bearing the guests names their places at
the tables and subject. as the game goes or
having gilded stars pasted on them, have
after many winters of popularity been laid
aside for newer things equa y efficient as
score keepers.
Recently at a meeting of small card
club bracelets were given to the women as
talles and key rings to the men. These
bracelets had been expressly made of heavy
copper wire. They slipped over the hand
and hung loosely on the arm after the man.
ner of bangles. The key rings were also
made of copper wire, although somewhat
lighter in weight, and had been twisted into
shape by the same jeweler who fashioned
the bracelets. AS the party assembled each
one of the guests drew from the number
ring or bangle and learned by the little rib
bon tied on ii at which table a place was
to be taken. The women slipped the ban
giles on their arms; the men put the key
rings in their pockets. Later little brass
bells were passed around to be hung on the
tallies of the winners, while clowns and tiny
pigs decorated those unfortunate as to
lose. Before the end of the game there
was naturally merry jingle of these
trinketS.
There are, indeed, an infinite number of
inexpensive brass charms which might be
bought for this purpose and which would
add to the jollity of the game. The idea
moreover. is not costly one to put in ex-
ecution. In fact, at the mentioned card
party there were present over fifty people,
and the cost of the tallies amounted to less
than 81. Roman fibulas instead of bangles
might be given to the women for charm
holders. On their bOdices the fibulas would
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-27

ing frocks, and they are not many in num-
Der. the gowns to be purchased must be on
the elaborate order, verging closely on the
style of the theater or restaurant dinner
gown. No one color or material is ohliga-
tory. and there is great variety to choose
FROM There is the rather severe princess
between the two, the front and sides close
fitting and the back left full from the Shout
ders. AS may be surmised this same fash
ion is rather trying style excepting to the
woman of perfect figure, and it is rather too
Made in cloth or wolfe, in pale shades or
lace and embroidery jacket worn with it
improves it immensely. There is a shade
OF very light brown, real cafe au lait,
quite distinct from coffee color. that. worn
with a jacket of ecru lace and batiste, is
most attractive, and looks we'll also in pale
gray. blue. pink or white. but in the first
mentioned color, with the jacket in the tone
1t is perhaps the smartest of ALL
White is to be more fashionable this
spring and summer than 1t has been all
winter. so that investing in white gowns
at this time of year is not so foolish a pro-
ceeding might be supposed The light
weight cloths, the veilings, the crepe de
chimes, plain or embroidered; the chiffon
CLOTH white serge for the coat and skirt
models. and all sorts and description of lace
and embroidered suits are in great demand
1t is extraordinary to note how many differ
ent shades of white there are. too, and to
make the choice is by no means an easy
task. White taffeta silk and some of the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-27
Moral Snobbery.
From the London Spectator.


One of the commonest forms of snobbish-
ness is not social at all. but moral. Many
people are moral sno,bs who have not a grain
of social ambition. When Napoleon said, II
am above morality" he not only gave ex-
preston to what some great people have
secretly thought about themselves, but to
what thousands of their small admirers
have openly said of them. They do not re-
fleet, perhaps, as they justify their heroes,
that to declare any one in the world above
morality Is to say that morality has
ceased to exist, has been found out and ex-
ploded, nothing remaining but some util-
itarian rules suitable for the guidance of
mediocre minds The moral law must be SUI
preme or nowhere. Yet this. as 1t seems to
us, self-evident proposition is by no means
easy to apply. Most of us feel that for any
one to lay too much stress upon the moral
shortcomings of a great man is a sign of a
small mind, or at least of defective edu-
cation.
We do not habitually speak of Nelson In
respect of Lady Hamilton, of Burns in re-
spect of his marriage, of Bacon in the mat
ter of his proved corruption, OF Coleridge
in connection with his opium habit, nor Of
Charles Lamb in his cups, as we should
speak of Smith, Brown and Robinson in like
circumstances. Must we then admit our
selves to be moral snobs? The prima-facie
evidence is very much against us.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-27

lions Of lace, narrow quilings of taffeta or
chiffon extremely effective. There is
nothing absolutely novel in this style of
gown, either in the design or the trimming.
1t does not emphasize any new fashion that
Is marked by individual or distinction, and
yet these gowns are Enthusiastically new. and
close inspection reveals novelty In shape
or trimming Such small details as the
lines Of trimming. or 1t may be in the new
design Of the lace or embroidery that Is
used, are not noticeable at first glance, and
yet there Is certain fndefinable something
that is marked at once by the woman who
knows clothes and understands the art of
dress.
4 X.
Light shades of all colors are popular, and
lightweight materials of all descriptions
are fashionable, and 1t Is not advisable to
have all gowns in white, although white is
more serviceable by far, as 1t does not fade,
and the beauty of some of the smartest soon
furnishes under the rays of the hot sun.
Expense plays, though. but little part in the
scheme Of a southern trip, SO that does not
influence the majority in choosing the gown.
There are new shades in purple, an odd
heliotrope mauve and curious dead leaf
coloring above all that is decidedly novel
and very smart. If it proves too unbecom-
ing tint it can easily be made satisfactory
with the addition of cream lace near the
face, and all the newest models show that
lace on the waist will be essential for a
fashionable appearance this season. Lace
dyed to match the material Is also in style,
and If it is desired to have some white
showing there Is a white lining put under
the lace in the waist. This, however, Is
rather a sharp contrast, and a lighter shade
in the lining and white just at the throat
carries out the same effect.
Most charming are the black and white
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-27

fords most excellent opportunity for the
use of taffeta, while it can also be used in
on in bands that at the waist are narrow
and gradually widen out toward .-.e foot.
most charming model in a Brussels net,
with circles embroidered on it. is made up
over pale blue, and then it is trimmed with
the taffeta in the manner just described,
the taffeta being the exact shade of tn, lin
ing. AS may be imagined. this model can
be copied in great variety of colors and is
always charming in white. In all black,
also. it is effective and smart; also in black
over color, the lace and silk being in
black, however, and only the lining light.
There are always to be found each and
every season among the novelty goods most
attractive patterns and styles, and these can
be utilized to good advantage for the elab-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-27
New Lingerie in
Partisan Designs

"HIS is the season of the year when
most women who are at all clever
with needles begin to replenish their
stock lingerie, for from now until spring
is the best time for getting in ones sew
ing. since out-of-door pleasures are not
very possible.
Some of the new garments which the
French shops are showing are most elabo-
rate, but the general trend of the fashion
seems toward an effect of comparative
simplicity with extreme fineness of ma
terial and hand work. There is not so
much embroidery used as there has been,
although little fine embroidery Is used
in most garments with the lace The
fashion of using several kinds of lace on
one garment which has ragged for some
time seems longer dominant. al
though the style is still used. One kind
Of fine real lace combined with a little
very fine embroidery is considered the best
style of trimming in the new French gar
ments.
Pale pink and pale blue lingerie is highly
popular, being shown In batiste, handker-
chief linen, silk muslin, cotton crepon, etc.
most attractive corset cover in pale pink
was cut very low, with round neck, FIN
ished in Nalenciennes edging. Beneath
this was a fine beading for narrow pink
ribbon A band of insertion sloped down
from the armholes toward the front of the
waist. Between the insertion and the bead
ing was plain oval piece OF the material
Il
Beneath the band of insertion the material
was slightly fulled
Very attractive corset covers are made
with the entire upper part of lace, very
slightly fulled, the upper edge of the lace
having design through which a drawing
ribbon can be run Broad ribbons cross
over the shoulders and fasten with bows
In front. The lower part of the wai't is
of fine French batiste made rather scant.
Night gowns of the colored batiste are
also most charming. One of pale blue had
a shallow round yoke. embroidered in
white with of Valencennes above
and below this. Valenciennes ruffles edged
the neck and sleeves. The sleeves were
full, tucked in at the top. and also at the
elbow, below which the material came out
In ruffie.
Charming indeed are the fascinating lit
tie dressing sacques now shown in the
French shops. They are as short as
boleros and are most fetching when worn
with high belted empire petticoats. One
such sacque of pink was made on a foun-
dalton of pink chiffon. This entirely
covered with ruffies of VaIenciennes put
on horizontally The little jacket was
loose and set out from the figure in the
most jaunty fashion.
The neck was cut out In the Dutch
fashion. Across the front of the neck was
"a broad shirred band of pink liberty satin
Similar shirred bands of liberty satin came
from the back over the shoulders and
met the front band, thus outlining the
square neck. These side bands hung down
on either side of the front to the bottom
of the Jacket. The sleeves of elbow length
were full caps of the pink chiffon covered
with rows of Valenciennes. Beneath these
caps were short shirred puffs of liberty
satin.
An equally fascinating dressing jacket
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-27

cred across the front in a double breasted
effect
ksk
Lamp shades are tremendously ornate
and more and more glittering. A new
ballet girl lamp shade, Tor instance, In
decorated with many jewels the most
greedy of ballet girls could possibly desire.
The shade is octagonal and is made OF dul1
silk On each of the eight panels Is q
painted ballet girl This is not a reflection
on the naturalness of the ballet girls COM
plexion, but merely an explanation OF the
nature of her coloring. All Of the figure 10
painted excepting the skirt, which Is made
of tightly shirred chiffon. The shade is fin-
ished with broad band Of gold insertion
dotted with bright colored jewels. beneath
which is ruffle of gold lace. Around the
top of the insertion are three strands OF
ruby beads which are looped all around the
edge of the shade. ...s
Equally glttering was a little shade
meant for a large candle or small lamp. It
was made of pale pink silk, over which
was a fabric which might be described as
pale pink cloth Of gold, pink and gold
threads being used in its composition. Gar
lands of ribbon embroidery decorated the
shade, which was edged with pink fringe
and gold lace, the gold lace being trim
med with pink and lavender ribbon flowers.
A simple shade made OF fowereo
chintz, with a fringe of crystal beads.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-27

crate gowns in a southern climate, just as
here in midsummer even the lightest weight
should be a cloth gown or two in case Of
an Unexpectedly cool day. The very lightest
weight should, however, be chosen. and
such an amount of lace or embroidery used
on the waist as to make it not too heavy.
Unlined yokes and collars and short sleeves
and thin Innings have, by the way, marked
a revolution in dress for women, and yet so
cleverly is the trimming put on that uni
formity with the skirt is most easily accom-
plished.
All the different qualities of wolfe are ap-
propriate, while Of the mousselne de sole
and chiffon cloth gowns there is no end to
the number. The skirts are made in many
different ways and are plain or trimmed, as
the case may be. Entire deux and medal
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-27
The crosse of Women"
P. T. o. OF London.


The French is the language of compile
ment. and surely never has 1T been en-
ployed to greater advantage than in an
account OF the cZarna's beauty written
by familiar of the Russian court. Here
is a masterpiece OF 'howery rhetoric: The
waves of hair and the pellucid complex
ion of her imperial majesty are rhythms
in symphony of which her ravishing
form is the climax. No woman on any
other throne is so suggestive of the lily.
Then, the nose of the empress has a
literature of its own, 1t Is a very white
nose, the most regular nose in all Eu-
rope. 1t denotes delicate, sensitive ma
ture, being long and thin, with pliable
nostrils and a slight. very slight, tend
ency to the aquiline. This proclaims that
firmness of disposition SO conspicuously
absent from the cars nose-the organ
being retrousse in his imperial matesty's
case and indicative of infrmity of pur-
pose. The ears OF the czarina are large,
but lie close to the imperial head. The
lips are the reddest CT curtains before the
pearliest of teeth
She ever stands erect Her waist-line
is accentuated without waspishness Of
length or vulgarity OF shortness. 1t Is
only the head that ever droops, but that
droop is a swans. The eyelashes are
abyssmal depths, her eyes. Such eyes!
They are eyes that fash. that swim. that
look up unexpectedly and drop again.
For the mastery OF her complexion there
is constant war of all shades of pink
with all shades of white. She is the very
rose of women. exhaiing the fragrance
of her nature with perennial sponta-
nelly. Furthermore, We are told the
czarina has the most deiicately pensfve
face in the world, and that she can cook
and sew and take care of her children.
extragagant praise Is that we see a
kindly, pleasant, beautiful woman look
ing with haunting eyes of tragedy out Of
the great abyss Of Russian unrest.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-27
Cakes and Sandwiches
for Afternoon Teas

ITO the hostess who entertains fire.
quently with small informal after
noon teas-and thanks to the grow
ing spirit Of hospitality which deprecates
mere vulgar display, the number is in
creasing-nothing is more acceptable than
suggestions whereby she can impart to her
simple feast touch Of novelty. Beyond a
cup Of tea or chocolate the refreshments
served are SO slight that to make the de-
sired impression they must have dainty
perfection, both as to flavor and appear
ance, not SO necessary at a larger and
more varied affair
X X
The first thing to be considered is, of
course. sandwiches. Since Lord Sandwich
first laid slice of ham between two thin
slices of bread. and so originated the dish
which has every since borne his name, his
simple theme has known infinite variation,
and every year adds a few more to the long
list. some delicious. many merely odd. In
cooking. newness or oddly is not a suffi-
cient raison d'etre. and the wise hostess
will avoid Offering her guests refreshments
whose unlikeness to those usually served
are their chief recommendation. Aim first
to tickle the palate. next to satisfy the eye,
and let novelty enter only when 1t comes
hand in hand with the first precept.
1t seems hardly necessary to emphasize
that half the battle in making dainty sand
witches lies in well-made, well-sliced bread
Where the round loaves baked for this pur-
pose can be produced good shape can be
secured with little trouble, otherwise to at
tain the half circle which most housekeep-
ers like there must be q great waste both
of time and bread.
Olives and Pimentoes.-For these you can
buy in bottles broken olives which have
been stoned. The pimentoes come in small
cans Drain the liquor from both olives
and pimentoes and chop fine. Add enough
well-seasoned mayonnaise to bind together
and make the mixture spread well.
Hard-boiled Eggs, Pimentoes and Pickles.
These are made as the above, the eggs,
both white and yellow. chopped quite fine,
to which is added an equal quantity of
chopped pimentoes and good pickles. Mix
with mayonnaise dressing and spread gen.
erously over the bread.
Chicken and Green Pepper.-The chicken
boiling until tender and allowing the fowl
to cool in it's own liquor. The sandwiches
are daintier when only the breast is used,
though the dark meat can be added II de-
sired. Strip the chicken. rejecting all skin
and gristle. and chop the meat fine. Sea-
son with salt and cayenne pepper. Mix
generously with mayonnaise dressing and
minced sweet green peppers. This makes a
most appetizing sandwich.
Egg and Sardine.-Rub the yellows of six
hard-boiled eggs to smooth paste, add
enough highly seasoned mayonnaise to
make thick, easily spread mixture. Drain
the Oil from three or four good French sar-
dimes; cut on the heads and tails, and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-27

with a sharp knife lay them open; remove
the bones and scrape the skin. Rub to a
paste and add to the eggs and mayonnaise,
mixing thoroughly. Spread on thin slices
of bread.
Tomato Sandwiches.-These are very SIM
pie, and consist of firm. very cold. thinly
sliced. well-salted tomatoes. laid between
slices of lightly buttered bread. 1 know of
not be misled into thinking that mayon-
naise will improve them. In this class of
sandwiches belong the cucumber, either
thinly sliced and dipped into French dress
ing or chopped and mixed with mayon-
naise. I prefer the latter myself, but both
are good.
My last offering is in many ways the best
Of all, though not as appropriate for after
noon teas as for some other occasions.
These are toasted ham sandwiches, and II
you have never tried one I advise you to
do SO as soon as possible. They may be
made of prepared deviled ham, but are
much better if cold boiled or roast ham is
put through a meat grinder. seasoned with
mustard, pepper and little lemon juice
and made into rich paste with mayon-
naise dressing. Spread between thinly
sliced bread and toast to light brown on
both sides. Serve Immediately
OF course, any good confectioner can
furnish you a variety of fancy cakes, but
those made at home are much to be pre-
ferred. I give below three recipes which
I can heartily recommend, two of which
are very simple in construction.
Oatmeal Macaroons.-One cup Of white
sugar, two large breakfast cups of rolled
oats, two eggs, one tablespoonful of butter,
one teaspeonful of baking powder. one tea
spoonful of almond extract and a half tea
spoonful of salt. Beat the eggs well. add
the other ingredients and beat the batter
thoroughly. Drop pieces the size of wal
nut on well-buttered tins. about two inches
apart. Bake in quick oven and leave on
the tins few minutes before removing.
Marguerites-To the white of we'll
beaten egg add enough powdered sugar to
form thin icing. Make the mixture Arm
with chopped pecans. Spread on fresh thin
soda crackers and brown in a quick oven.
Mocha Cake.-A half cup Of butter, one
large cup of sugar. two cups of sifted
flour, three eggs, One-half cup-of milk, two
heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder In
mixing, add the flour very slowly. Bake in
fiat tins and allow the batter to stand In
the pans FIVE minutes before putting in the
oven. When the cake Is cold cut into
squares Cream together, butter and
powdered sugar until very stin, thin
with cream until the mixture will spread
easily; flavor with brandy and almond ex-
tract Ice the squares of cake with this
and roll in almonds which have been
blanched and chopped. Have a care not to
get your icing too thin.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-27

~ II Wv the EXODUS 10 the south
nj Is as we'll established a custom in
~ this country as the trip to the
Riviera Is in Europe, an added in
terest is taken In clothes, for 1t Is
all important that there should be thor
ough outfit provided. At one time it was
thought that after the Christmas holidays
were over the dress question might lie fall
low just for a short while, the winter ward
robe being in order and it being really too
early to start in with spring fashions.
In the present state of affairs, however.
there is not a moment to be lost If one
would be prepared to start off for few
weeks trip south, for with the most eco
nomical Intentions in the world 1t is abso-
lutely essential that there shall be thin
clothes provided. The entire summer para
phernalia, in truth for winter gowns are
lar too heavy to be comfortable or prac-
ticable.
This southern trip-the winter holiday
does not come into the lives Of the ma jority
of individuals who plan on a Ii -ited in
come to be smartly gowned for money is
not counted on such an excursion, and the
principal question to be settled is that the
gown shall be becoming in its style and in
Its texture be light enough to be worn with
comfort on hot days.
With the exception of the simple MORN