The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-08-11
NAPLES and Her GUIDES
nov THEY TAKE CARE or YOUR
WEALTH.


The recent plant OF certain British hotel
proprietors that Americans are becoming
wary IN the matter Of tips ought to be a
matter for general graduation on this
side Of the Atlantic. The truth is that
the great majority of American travellers
in Europe are there for the first time and
they are as sheep for the shearing. The
European. taking him by and large, knows
a. much about America as a cat does about
algebra, but one conception he has thor
oughly fixed in his mind and that is that
an American has more money than brains
and thai he is wholly without thought in
the matter Of expenditure.
The American does much to justify this
idea. The typical tourist in Europe is
i'll informed about the customs OF the places
he visits. he is constantly demanding some
thing which is not easily had. he cease
lessly strives to regulate his daily life ac-
cording to the routine of his home. he speaks
little or none Of the language Of the country.
and he thinks he can improve upon Bae-
deker. Vow there are many deficiencies
In the Baedeker guide books, but they are
not in the department OF travel or local
directions. After a tourist has tried to
heat Baedeker two or three times he ought
to discover that 1t cannot be done and
thenceforward follow implicitly the di-
r~ections about railways. guides. cabs,
luggage and other matters Of that kind.
In no part Of Europe does the tourist
pay more extensively for going his
own gait thar in and around Naples.
This picturesque city is the head
quarters OF the most completely organized
system Of thievery and trickery in all
Europe. However. unless the tourist
wanders through its byways unaccom-
panied he is not very likely to fall into
difficulties. II a beggar walks up to you
then and announces that the two lire piece
which you gave him was bad. give him
another without question. Never mind
the insignificant fact that you never saw
him before. Give up gracefully. glee-
fully, and then get out Of that part Of the
city as fast as you can. II you do not
comply with the beggar's gentle request
you may find yourself held up and robbed
of all you have about you before you can
reach our hotel.
IL is wisest to pay cab hire in Naples
and defer using trolley cars till you reach
Rome. The N~eapolitan cabman is one Of
the finest blackguards in the world. He
wears a rskish hat, a cheerful smile, a
~stilletto and a revolver. He belongs TO a
camorra and he has not less than one long
standing vendetta somewhere about him.
Make yourself the friend Of your cabman.
Hire him day after day. Pay him sub
stsntial tips in addition to the liberal over
charges which he will freely make. In
the long run you will save money. The
cabman will look after you like a father
and you will find him a competent guide
and a dsbster at a bargain.
The chief attractions at Naples. as every
casual reader knows. are outside the town.
Vesuvius is the best advertised Of all, but
just at present is not worth the price Of
admission. The railway up the mountain
was destroyed in the last earthquake and
the ascent is not a JOY. Furthermore, the
beautiful and striking conical summit was
blown on and the top is now a gentle and I'M
accumulated curve. Worst Of all the volcano
In utterly inactive. Not a wisp OF smoke
floats above the rounded summit, not a sus-
ricion Of glow touches the starry sky above
the crater. Vesuvius is taking a rest and
rcrhaps preparing for its next exhibition.
II you wish to see something doing in the
volcanic line. you must go to the Solfatara
Rnd see the Little Vesuvius. which is, Of
course only a side show, but uncommonly
good and less likely to give you cold chills
Flong your spine than Vesuvius in rush
hours.
The Solfatara il one Of the fea lures OF
the days excursion northwest Of Naples,
including pozzuoli, Baiae and possibly
Misenum. What you can sse in this ex-
~ursion is fully set forth in Baedeker and
also how you can see 10. II you stick to
naedeker's directions it will cost you about
20 per cent. less than IL will il you become
timld and put yourself under the protection
NJ a N~eapolitan guide. The Naples guide
I've II understood. is a very competent man.
'Ie speaks two or three langua ges and he
l.noxs his business He il licensed by the
Government. and in order to get his license
he must psss a stiff cxa min9 ton by the
faculty Of the unive rsity For exs mrle he
vill lie asked to describe in det1il the house
If Vetti at PomDeii, the baths Of Nero on
the Pozzuoli road. lake Ave rnrs. Bare
and so forward.
His descriptions must tally with those
~ the authorities and his history must be
In the main correct. After he has passed
his examination and secured his license
he can embellish the history TO suit himself.
and he generally does. You will do well
10 equip yourself with a fairy large furd
of historical Information when you go
travelling IN Europe Otherwise you will
become overloaded with wonders and
mayhap be laid Up W tn intellectual indi-
gestion.
IN addition 10 the Poz uo,i tiip you will
n course wish to do Pornpeii. the famous
Cr,ve to Ama.l and sorrento. and also the
island of Capri Thes, features are never
omitted by the traveller who has four or
FIVE days in Nap es. and that is what most
have Only II few have time to go to
Ps 'tum for tie wonderfu' Greek temples.
while fewer still go to lschia.
Now when you arrive n Naples You viii
he vny'aid 10y N,apoi;an guides who
will serve up to you eons pretty specious
arguments to show thar you need the ser
vices Of one of then for your entire series
Of excursions. You have probably read
your Baedeker aud concluded that nothing
could I've easier than - do without n guile,
but when you are on the spot and see the
extent and nature of ~" territory TO be
covered you become frightened. IL does
does not look 81 easy 10 get your round