The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-11-03

No fashion theme 10 more tempting than
that 81 coats this season. AZ every turn
3ne is confronted with now and attractive
coat models. and provided always that
ons is not searching for that rare thing,
4 smart separate OOa OF short length and
NOT OF fur. only an embarrassment Of riches
complexities a oOat quest.
~ tho luxurious evening coats. artis-
really simple OF gOrgeOusly rich and elabOr-
ate, much has been said in these columns.
bu. much is left to be said. for each day
Jnngs to view new coats Of this description,
md whether in embroidered net. velvet.
satin OF cloth the really successful coats
for evening wear are lovely beyond pos
ibilitv OF description.
Much velvet is used in evening coats
aud for afternoon carriage and visiting
coats as well, monotone colOrings being
Dyeferred and the supple lustrous velvet
being trimmed in braiding. embroidery.
rordeliares and passementerie ornaments
4 self color. Sometimes fur supplies a
contrasting note. the soft browns Of sable.
mink or marten, the white Of ermine or
fox. the silvery gray Of chinchilla Of for
evening use cleaning gold, silver or copper
may be worked into the design.
One copper color velvet coat trimmed
IN heavy metalIic lace OF copper tones
and in a very dark brown fur that is al
most black. is one OF the best French models
We have seen. There is an exquisite shade
Il rose, not a pink. not a fraise, but some
where between tho two. warm yet soft
and with a silvery tone. which il a favorite
with the Partisan coat makers IN 10 lovely
N velvet, satin. crepe or velvet.
BLACK relieves this shade with excellent
effect. and It is good, too. with gray We
have even seen IL successfully combined
With evnbroideries i'm shaded violets' and
ourples. but such a color scheme demands
Inerring color sense.
The pastel blues and Copenhagen blues
are extremely popular for evening coats
and are serviceable as we'll a chic. NJ
nervous green's, particularly certain light
bron1ed greens. are well liked and there
are lovely evening ClOaks in grays, in the
burnt bread, champagne and gold tones.
and in whites relieved by notes Of vivid
color or Of gold.
Hut IL was to the more practical street
and carriage coa hat this column was TO
i've devoted and IL is from coats Of that
sort that the sketches printed here were
made la these garments we find the
greatest forward strides this fall.
An last year the evening cloaks were
remarkably artistic and beautiful. but not
in many a year has the long. ample wrap
for afternoon wear received so much at
tsntion as this season.
Doubtless the increasing tendency toward
the wearing Of bodice and skirt frocks Of
light weight material throughout he winter
has had much to do with tho cult Of the
long separate coat; and this fall. when even
a large majority Of the costume coats are
quite long. the long separate coat is more
insistent than ever. II may be in three
quarters. seven-eighths or full length
and appears in all materials from ~velvets.
heavy ribbed silks and handsome broad
cloths 20 cheviots and homespuns:
Rraiding OF one kind Or another enters
into the designs Of most of the trimmed
coats and large cordelieres. frogs, passe-
menterie ornaments. nc, are much used, as
are trimmings of contrasting material
velvet on cloth. cloth IN velvet. SC. A
delightful wrap Of souris gray broadcloth.
which seems an odd cross between a Japan
ssc kimonoa and an Arabian burnous hasabso-
lutely no trimming save a wide band OF
souri- gray velvet bordering all it's edges
and one huge and superb button OF old
silver and topaz. which holds the folds Of
the cloak together on the left.
Another gray carriage cloak in the modish
elephant shade is of velvet and is trimmed
in cloth of the "a me shade braided intricately
in black and gold. Or IL one prefers a COM
ina ton Of cloth and satin there il a pic
long wrap, half cloak. half cape,
~ rather like a huge cape draped at the
sides to form sleeves, in deep blush. gray
ish purple, a huckleberCy tone, with its big
,lraped hood lined with self tone satin and
turned back facing Of satin down the
fronts and bordering the sleeve drapery,
while great choux of soft satin with dull
gold centres and large pendent tassels and
cords are sat on the fronts
Heavy silk. such as faille, Bengaline and
Duchesse, is mOdish for the afternoon coats.
and like the natter blue manteau OF the
sketch these coats are often relieved by a
collar Of fur and receive an air OF heavlness
from self color velvet. heavy oordeieres,
&c. Very large cords covered
With silk are frequently used in place OF
ready made cords and give a certain Cachet.
az does every hand made trimming.
On the coat Of gray ~brOadcloth pictured
here this silk covered cord. matching the
cloth IN color. ia used in place Of soutache,
and buttons too are covered with n silk.
4 line of prune color velvet borders the
neck. fronts and sleeves.
The high D~irectoire collar is "a feature
Of some OF the smart long coats. and whether
u the turned down order or merely straight
and high, IL very becoming to the woman
~ long slender throat. A long touring
coat Of broadcIoth, Hitting and falling
smoothly from shoulder quite 10 the frock
nern. ripples toward tho bottom and has
large frogs SET down the front. a high
turned down collar and hip pockets.
Braid trimmed models in brOadcloth
similar in character TO the redingote OF
The cut and relieved from monotone color
ing only by hand embroidery on the collar
are legion, and even at very moderate
prices one may And very stunning coats
owing their cachet 20 lines rather than TO
trimming. An instance OF this was a o
worn over a carriage frock by a chic young
woman seen in the hallway OF a fashion
able dressmaking establishment.
" was Of bIeW de rOi broadcloth OF the
s%oftest. most silky kind and fell straight
and full with large draped kimonO sleeves.
4 high turned down collar was faced with
black satin.
There was a scarf OF black satin and on