Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-17

~ nee there was a woman who
bought a ready-made suit at a
bargain sale. 1t was plain tight
" fitting cheviOt. with long skirts,
well cut for the price and really
good looking but unfortunately at the same
sale the bargain hunters eyes fell upon a
coat set. and therein lay the trouble
There was nothing wrong with the coat
set itself: indeed. it was a very pretty one
of princesSe lace. with deep pointed cufts
and a collar with broad revers; but It's
owner in transports of delight at her two
bargains insisted on combining them. With
no thought of the incOngruity of wearing
an accessory of a dressy suit on a strictly
tailored one. she basted the collar and cuffs
over the plain black velvet ones of her
coat and promptly looked badly dressed.
Despite the popularity of coat sets-a
popularity which bids fair to be even
stronger this year than last-one must
know where and how to use them. 1t is
mistake to think that lace or embroidered
cuffs and collars. however handsome they
NAV be i'm themselves. will look we'll on any
kind of a suit.
II may be said on general principles that
the severely plain tailor suit. especially IN
winter is better without furbelows of any
description. Heavy cloth suits, such as
Chevjots and tweeds, are quite unsuitable
objects on which to lavish hand-embroid-
cred lace inset cuffs and collars. On the
other hand a broadcioth which is made
over fancy model is often given added
beatty by 4 stylishly-cut and well-htting
coat set.
Most women seem to recognize the unfit
ness of using these dainty accessories with
the winter costume, and there is only an
occasional one seen, but as spring ap-
proaches they show a marked revival.
Somehow a rajah, a soft tafeta, mohair
or pougee even if built on severely tailored
lines. is given an air of dressiness by add
ing an appropriate coat set There is a
fresh summeriness about touch of white
at neck and wrists that is becoming to all
women.
Granting all this, there are still certain
things 10 know to the choice OF a coat
set. The shape should conform as far as
possible 10 the collar and cuffs of the suit.
round. narrow coat collar of velvet or
taffeta looks far from slightly shining
through a deep arrangement of lace or
linen that is almost a cape in erect; yet
how ofte. is this to be seen ON women
otherwise correctly gowned.
Lace coat sets, moreover, DO not look
well on knoCkabOut suits, even II the ma
terial of the suit is of SILK or soft. cllnging
woods. Instead choose for morning wear a
cred with scallop and a few dots, or at
most with d very simple design. This must
be cut exactly like the under collar and
cuffs The natural coOred linens are often
preferred for this kind of a set.
For wear with the dressier, more elab-
oratclv trimmed short coats or blouses, sc
much worn in spring and summer, more
latitude Is allowed in selecting coat set
Broad rolling collars, some of them ever
with rerers, and deep-shaped cuffs are per
Missile They may be as ornate as Is con
sistent with good taste Sheer linens o.
batistcs with lace inserts and much hand
work batistes and embroideries combined
lace and swiss insertions, or allover laces
both heavy and sheer, are all made up most
attracttvely for this purpose.
Probably the most popular coat set how
ever for general utility is one of a fine
heavy linen, with no other trimming but a
more or less intricate design in hand en-
hroidery. Such a set may be used &c
brighten several different suits. either wool
en ones or the dark-cOlored linens, which
viii be more worn than ever.
Now 10 buy one of these coat sets Is toe
frequently beyond the power of the woman
who must live on a small income. There
are, of course, certain machine-made ones