New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1907-03-24
London. March IS.

ehSOrclHB al the present time IMAM the question
Of what surprises Nine. La Mode is holding in
store for her followers. The new Paris models
have been arriving for some weeks past, and
slowly but surely they have been weeded out
by the authorities IN the world of dress and
are beginning at last TO get some definite idea
OF what really viii be worn during the coming
spring season.
one thing is certain. namely. that dress itself
shows a distinct tendency toward costly SIM
plicity. for although all the new frocks cut
on simple. picturesque lines. they are trimmed
with all manner Of costly embroidery-old lace
the himsiness and color OF which are not 10 be
reproduced in that OF modern manufacture
beautiful hand work and large motifs of con-
ventional lines bordered with fine silk braids and
sparkling gold and silver thread.
As regards style, skirts are full and flowing,
gaining greatly in width al the hem and fitting
gracefully the hips. All bands. both for
evening and day gowns are tilted slightly up
ward at the back, and generally fastened with
highly ornarnented medium sized buckle
Stripes and checks predominant for all the
snartest tailor made gowns. particularly stripes
and those who are responsible for the evolution
OF novelties are 10 be congratulated upon the
immense ingenuity with which they continue 70
ring the changes on the original straight stripes
Some Of the newest examples Of tailor made
costumes seen at Fisher & Sons Of Regent
street. are fashioned Of the palest gray and
white striped tweeds. These are made with
short boiero coats and short pleated skirts. or
namented with beautiful cloth embroidered but
tens the whole being a perfect example Of what
a really smart English tailor made gown should
be On their smart cloth gowns for afternoon
wear the same firm are using quantity Of mar
row silk braid. and and all Of the new cos
tunes show varieties Of the new kimono sleeve
has oFe7lz he
These sleeves are TO be seen everywhere on
dainty indoor frocks, which often have stitched
loose strap surrounding the arfnhole TO hide the
seam on tailor coats where the shoulder piece
is cut in one with the sleeve. while they are
even suggested in ball and dinner gowns.
For beautiful indoor frocks Paquin. OF Dover
street still holds the palm. Indeed. It is owing
10 the influence Of the models issued by this
firm that the Empire mode has been univer-
sally adopted over here. Dainty little frocks
cut on Empire lines are being fashioned by Pa
quin OF the softest and finest face cloth, dyed
the most beautiful pastel shades imaginable.
A novelty introduced by this firm as trimming
for these costumes this season is the soft kid
belts fastened with buckle behind and worked
in front 10 match the embroideries Of the frock.
Needless 10 say, these tilted TO precisely the
correct height behind that gives all Paquin
creations such becoming lines. In the millinery
department the evening frocks made by this
firm stin notable for their lovely rides
cent bead trimming. This trimming is applied
sometimes 10 coarse tulle. while in other cases
il forms panels and borders TO the beautiful soft
coored satin souple and taffeta gowns. This
season viii see a quantity of artificial flowers
used as trimming for evening frocks. ana in
several trains made for the recent courts
Paquin struck a note OF novelty by introducing
tulle trains embroidered IN beads and trimmed
with La France roses.
IN the millinery department are 20 be seen the
latest models. For the most part bright colors
and medium sized hats predominant. while TO
accommodate the new pompadour modes IN hair
dressing many Of the straw hats have very
short front brims so that the forehead and the
high pouf Of the fashionable couture are left
uncovered. The fashionable shapes vary from
a cleverly folded. long, narrow tOque. known as
The Airship," 10 an improved mushroom shape
and large cavalier hats in leghorn and fancy
straw; colors range from old fashioned snuff
and golden brown sage reseda, peacock blue.
mauve peach, pastel, pink. rose, etc, dark
emerald and every shade OF faWn under the
sun. Trimming is noticeable for the many shot
effects, the multiplicity of ribbon bows. the huge
punches of small flowers. but above everything
else. the great masses Of floating fancy plumes
wings and quilts Wonderfully soft vulture
plumes crown most OF the smart hats. while a
novelty is an immense mass Of dyed pheasants
and bird OF paradise plumes mixed together and
placed at one side and allowed 20 float over the
back Of modern picture hat.
Furs are new departure for PaQuin, and the
ioveliest fur coats and wraps are 20 be had
here. fashioned on the same soft, luxurious lines
es al the clothes made by this firm. For early
fDring wear. when heavy furs are discarded
Sacuin is introducing a new departure in the
ever Popular marabout stole. namely, a beauti-
ful SNOW white stole edged with fans OF narrow
lace en- each Si6e and finished with a trimming
OF GsEgich feathers.
Fer evening gowns Eatin promises TO be most
worn. At the Meison Pitts. in Piccadilly, sew
oTsl lovely evening gowns. fashioned OF soft
satin covered with GA oFerdress OF chiffon or
net ard trimmed with rouleaux OF satin, are
10 be seen.
Host OF the newest evening gowns are CUE
on pinaEore lines, and have very deep, new
shaped chemisettos OF lace. while the small
Sleeves suggest the kiTnonO idea, these being
made fer the most part Of embroidery OF the
same material as tie gown fashion net Lace
Tor these gowns IS either Of the fine hlet kind or
Of Irish crochet lace, which shows no sign OF
diminishing in popularity this season Az
1ngliS & Tinkier's the Irish Warehouse In Re-
gent street. some very beautiful examples OF
whole frocs OF Iriah lace ere 20 be seen, notably
tho beautiful dress made entirely OF Irish cro-
ehet that won the RTss prize az the Dublin
tnow. Here also is a variety OF berthas and
Piece lace, which viii be much used for trim
ining linen frocks as the season advances. OF
me etceteras OF dress there Is much % write
me favoTite material OF the moment undoubt-
eoly is marqulsette. which looks like a silk
hioelunet. Beautiful soft voiles and gauges