The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-09-29
PARIS FASHIONS.
(RY MADAME PARoUIN.)

ions the last summer, yet certainly the
autumn models now being exhibited at
leading firms are exceedingly tasteful.
These autumn models are brought out
rather early in order that American
ladies may inspect and buy them before
they recross the Atlantic, as, although
American ladies are apt to say all
Partisan novelties find their way to
the states, 1t is none the less true they
prefer, as rule, to purchase them
here. In autumn gowns for street
wear, one of the principal changes in
troduced will concern the sleeves. They
will continue 10 be sloping on the shoul-
ders, but at the same time will be worn
rather more stlffened or puffed out at
the top, with the object of giving
breadth to the shoulders and apparent
slimness in consequence to 1.-THE waist.
The new sleeve is generally carried out
with narrow tucks or pleats in the up
per part. IT is rather voluminous until
it reaches below the elbow, where it is
narrowed down, fitting quite tight to
the arm.
Imitation pearls will be much en-
ployed in the coming season for trim
ming smart gowns. and will quite re-
place spangles. It is decreed that all
the trimming used for dresses shall be
heavy, complicated and rich in effect,
whether the said trimming belongs to
the category of fringe, cOrding or braid
ing. Since trimmings are destined to
be heavy as matter Of necessity the
materials on which they are placed
will be more solid and substantial than
those generally employed for autumn
wear. A new material called the lotto
man." has been just introduced. 1t is
somewhat heavy in appearance, but I'M
der the dexterous manipulation of
Paris dressmakers, it acquires supple
ness, and bids fair to be much appre-
ciated. Cachemire and velvet of the
thin, flexible kind, will also be much
employed for early autumn gowns.
while among the novelties of the sea-
son may be classed crepe de chine
embossed with velvet designs
OF course, the practical and useful
ta1lOr-made gowns will hold their own
but these costumes will be a little more
dressy and less severe than formerly.
The skirts, just touching the ground in
the newest models, are carried out
with stitched plsats, the jacket worn
with them being half-length. haIf-tight
fitting, and cut away in the front to
display a smart waistcOat. Some tai
tornado models for the early autumn
are very long-waisted, recalling the
Louis XIV style, but I do not think
they will find much favor with ladies
who, here in Paris. are still rather mad
after the short-waisted Empire style at
the back, the front part of the garment
being longer than the genuine Empire
style admits
Some exquisite little taffeta Jackets
are on view at the present time, cut
away in the front over a dressy blouse
in any color of material that may suit
the Wearer. The autumn skirt will
have a tendency to stand out at the
base, and to be less clinging to the
figure than those worn during the
summer. Since skirts are to be heavily
trimmed, it is only natural thsy should
have to forfeit to some degree their
suppleness.
The pettiCOat is certainly, according
to French notions, one Of the most i'm
pOrtant items in a woman's wardrobe.
White petticOats have been the order
of the day for summer wear, but with
the approach of autumn they will be
discarded, and silk petticoats will take
their place. Formerly silk petticoats
were too expensive save for the wealth.
Ter classes, but in the present day, with
the cheap silks and the excellent irni-
tatiOns Of silks, they are within reach
of almost every person. For a prac-
teal petticoat intended for everyday
wear, it is well to choose what is called
'simih" silk. new stuff very much in
vogue here. Evidently the silk worm
would repudiate it, but it is a remark
ably lasting material, with all the ap-
pearanee of the best Lyons silk. It is
chiefly made in colored or black satin
stripes on white ground. Petticoats
in black and white simili silk. with
black silk "balayeuses," are invaluable
for walking purposes or for roughing it.
A well-fitting petticoat should always
be cut with a seam in the front. the
fulness thereof being thrown behind to
keep out the dress skirt
For evening wear the First Eupire
styles are being accentuated by the in
PRODUCTION of canoes of all sizes. The
immense brooches which our great
grandmothers looked upon as such i'm
portant assets, are being reset in the
form OF buckles to supplement the new
belts, and every woman who possesses
some treasured heirloom in the form of
a medallion Of carved shell or ivory Is
looked upon with envy by her rivals in
the world of dress. The belts are folded
round the figure and fastened with an
enormous cameo, while the lower edge
is outlined with row of tassels sup
ported by knotted ends of silk cord
ed silver stalks are likewise being in
troduced for evening wear, and form a
species Of basque which gives distinc-
ton and Importance to the full-draped
bOdices.
Nothing is more popular with the
thinner dress of soft velvet or crepe de
chine than the open sleeves composed
OF drapery OF tulle or mousseline de
sole hung with chains of amber beads
or mock Jewels. There are Iooped
across the arm over the shoulder and
have the effect of drawing the tuIle
draperies together, while boules of the
same beads are suspended from the
large tulle bow which connects the
sleeve at the elbow Girdles of mock
gems, cut crystal, or Jet, sewn to thick
silk cords, have once more come back
20 favor. and are the only decoration
in the case of some of the evening
gowns of studied severity, the ends of
the girdue depending to the foot of the
skirt. Couture ornaments of gern-set
tulle to match, wired in the form of
bows and placed in the center of the
hair, give an added touch of original
ity to the toilette, a large double
winged butterfly or wreath of con-
volvuli being the favorites of the mo-