Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1907-10-26

of colored pongee with deep scallop-
ed founces embroidered I'm self-color
were perhaps most favored. and
there came others none the less at !.
tractive in linen and linen embroid-
cred in contrasting color.
The lawn skirt in color is also
shown and when Joined with the
colored underskirt to match is ex-
ceedingly attractive under muslin
dress. or those of thin silk. Change
able taffetas are sefviceable for this
purpose as well as the striped,
checked or plaid silks. For more
elaborate purposes still there are
the chiffon taffetas trimmed with
tucking. quilting, lace, while satins
are much liked for skirts bearing
whole laces, fiounces of lingerie ma
terial lace trimmed.
Whole fiounces are made OF alter
mating bands of valenciennes lace
and embroidery. Lace frills edge
such a hounce, a three inch width
of lace edging being the ordinary
choice.
Some nightgowns OF the simplest
character were recently seen, every
one OF these garments we're made of
fine French nainsook most carefully
cut and made. A hem, daintilv
featherstitched by hand, through
which ribbons could be drawn and
edged with narrow lace, was the
only neck finish of some of these
garments. Others had merely n
valenciennes frill and one of the
lovely fine headings now so much
used, set on by hand. On many of
the seasons models the X yoke are
deep enough to give an empire sug-
gestion. IL is called a yoke, but Is
made deep enough and looks more
like littl ebody. This body may
be original in shape and elaborately
trimmed with embroidery, lace,
tuckings. insets of lace, indeed every
kind of ornamentation may be used.
The lower edge Is often finished with
broad bending through which n
broad ribbon Is drawn to simulate
the girdle, and many use the true
girdle OF liberty satin. To obtain
plenty of fullness the skirt OF the
gown is laid on the yokes with
tucks. A genuine high necked
gown is rare, but compromise Is
often made by giving model high
back and a demi decollette front.
or the~e the square cut model Is de-
cidedly the most becoming and is
shown in the most attractive de-
signs. the very slight V cut being
almost universally becoming.
OF the many kinds OF lace valen-
clennes, imitation or red Is the fay-
orlte for all sorts of lingerie effectes
but Cluny and baby Irish are often
used with fine results and the new
filet lace Is particularly well adapt
ed for such decorations. A new.
square meshed valenciennes has
found some favor this summer. but
the German meshed valenciennes Is
OF the two the most used. The usual
width is about two inches. Machine
embroidery is at present less used
than II once was, the preference be-
Ing given 10 lace and hand emhroid-
cry. In hand work certain bands
OF lingerie stun. such as batiste or
handkerchief linen, are embroidered
and used with alternating bands OF
lace insertion for yokes, collars.
etc.
The beauty of the headings Is par
ticularly noticeable this year. There
are those OF the very narrow widths
which can be run with baby ribbon
only. and others wide enough for
fve-ineh ribbon. In the French de-
signs preference Is given TO embroid-
cred slits or eyelets rather than a
beading. The lace trimmed COM
bination suits are an indispensable