The independent., 1907-04-25

tion are indeed very smart. For this
purpose, both colors and black are
in order, but as satin duchesse
is heavy and warm, it is only desira-
BILE for the earlier spring days, and
on the whole, seems much better
adapted to fall wear. In lieu Of this,
there is faille franchise, which is more
suitable, but best of all are the orient
al silks and all silks of rough
weaves. Tuscan, shantrng, tus-
sab, rajah and mirage, all are popular
for day and evening costumes, for coat
suits, for formal or Informal occasions,
for separate coats or for entire suits
They require but little trimming
drape gracefully wear well, and alto
gether possess those qualities which
go 10 make up q satisfactory ing
fabric. Most of these silks come in
monotone or fancy effects. One of the
prettiest of Tuscan designs shows
crescents Of varying sizes, interspersed
with solid dots. The little figures are
shaded blue, on a darker blue ground,
or brown Or green, goOdly variety of
col0rs. Another Tuscan design shows
hajr-line check, each little square
having polka dot at it's intersection,
and still another shows shallow stripes
crossed by invisible checks.
One of the new silks, without any
special name, is faille striped with
satin. These stripes are of different
widths, one pattern showing a broad
bIdd, then alternating eighth-inch
S, ipes of black and white with a
group of hair-line stripes next that.
These seemingly conspicuous patterns
are made up into whole costumes. as
well as utilized for trimmings A smart
example of this was noticed in din
ner gown of dark blue and white
striped faille; the skirt hung full from
the waist, and was trimmed with a
double row of chiffon ruching of dark
blue, put on in serpentine fashion, the
two rows intersecting each other. The
waist was surplice style, folding over
a guimpe of dotted net and edged
around with a bias band of plain blue
silk embroidered in blue and gold. The
straight shoulder caps were also bor-
dered with the bands and the girdle of
blue silk was likewise decorated.
The introduction of new designs in
foulards has given them new value,
and they are seen in shirt-waist suits
and more dressy creations. The large
dots and disks were SO largely dupli-
Gated last year in cotton materials that
these patterns may not be called ex-
elusive but there are many new con-
ventionai designs, which are even pret-
tier. To accord with the prediction
for stripes, hair-line and other stripes
have been introduced into foulards, and
are charming when properly developed.
The use of stripes is hazardous always,
and requires the skill of the artist. but
under those conditions there is nothing
more effective or distingue
For more elaborate dresses the sheer
silk materials are most in evidence
and here we find even O. wider range,
both in the way of colors and weayes.
Silk wolfe promises TO be the leading
fabric. II is both practical and beau
tiful Marquisettes, chiffon paquins
chiffon Bordeaux, ninon voils. surface
point Persian all are interesting, and
each is to be had in numberless nov
elites. The plain weaves are very apt
TO be made over plaided, striped or
figured Innings, while the fancy ones
have plain foundations and are equal
~ popular The shades OF brown from
old-fashioned seal to mauve and cham
pagnc, are far and away fashions best
liked colors. with the prepondcrance
OF favor with the golden browns.
These shades, however, are difficult 10
find, as the output was pretty well
exhausted last fall when the tide OF
popularity began TO turn In this di-
rectlon.
There IL no color that lends itself