The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30
GRAND TOUR 70 YEARS AGO
ANEW YORKERS TRIP TO EUROPE
IN 1896.

WV " u anu baNhtla iEaNtllNu Wy
Coach Mostly. but Found n Railroad
or Two Expenses Kept Down 20 FIg
ures That VIII Amaze Modern Travellers
In these days when England and the
Continent are whizze1 over by Americans
In high priced automobiles, while the ocean
steamers must each spring be faster and
bigger to accommodate the outward bound
pleasure seekers, TO read OF a tour made
by a young New Yorker seventy-one years
ego has the charm Of fiction, so great is
the contrast.
They made the voyage in 1886 in American
lines Of sailing ships to London, Liverpool
or Havre. This New Yorker voyaged u
the packet England, and after being towed
of Sandy Hook by the steamer Hercules
on March 10 the ship made H~olyhead, The
entrance TO Liverpool Bay, nineteen days
later.
The traveller deserted the England to
board a pygmy steamer for the sake Of
landing a few hours sooner. The packet
had raised the Irish coast in fifteen days
and the traveller notes that after a similar
run ships have been detained seventeen
days more in the English Channel by fogs.
He saw two steamboats, in the Channel,
one bound from Bristol to Waterford.
Steam tenders on both ends of the At
lantic voyage were the intermediate links
in the substitution of steam for sails, which
began in 1888. Now the quick trip across
may be summarized on the social side as
som chat in lounging chairs, a charity
concert and a few games of bridge. But
on the packets the passengers had to be
cheerful mixers to enliven the voyage.
IN tho ENGLAND Mt tho frat Hinnar tho
captain introduced the passengers TO one
another, taking wine with each at the table
In succession, and afterward he led in the
diversions, serving as judge at a mock trial
and joining in the dances, games. recita-
lions and singing. Thu after dinner songs
ranged from Zip Coon TO Barney Brallag-
han and the captains "Old Engiand's on
Our Lee, My Boys On Sundays there
was an Episcopal service in the cabin.
The price of passage on the packets was
$3.50 over and Sl75 to return, the voyage
being longer. Our traveller landed at st,
Georges dock. Liverpool, and made this
note:
BY the way, what docks are those, my
countrymenl Substantial, spacious, well
covered and well paved-what a contrast
10 those in New York! But hushi will not
abuse home on my first day in Europe"
He finds there are no public tables at
the hotels and thiRks the custom con-
v%enient, though rather unsociable." In
stead of going direct to London in twenty
four hours. he went by railway to Man
chester and by coach to Birmingham,
Warwick, Standardization and Oxford
to London. a desultory journey of much
Sightseeing. The coaches were fitted for
four inside and eleven outside seats, the
latter being half price and the fares were
always paid 'on booking your name" a
custom that still holds good.
The attention, civility and sometimes
servility Of the servants you will first re-
mark, " comments our New Yorker. And
secondly you will see the reason thereof
In the universal custom of fees to each
who has ministered to you comfort.
"Al gentlemen are expected TO pay
in addition TO their regular bills Sd. a
meal TO the waiter at the hotel, Sd. a day
10 the chambermaid and Cd. a day to
the boots and p%orters'; is. each to the
coachman and guard, if there be one, for |
every thirty miles or Whereabouts and Is.
to cicerones at show places. More than
the above is unnecessary; less will not
pass"
1T is scarcely worth while 10 say to the
novice in London beware of impositions
OF all sorts" is the introduction to what
the traveller saw in that metropolis.
He marvelled how society disarranged
the order Of nature in England-"come
TO town in May for the winter season and
go into the country in December to spend
Christmas" He saw the CRATES in the
200 and the Thames tunnel, which was
nearing completion, and besides the stereo-
typed round still taken by American visitors
called at the North and South America
Coffee House, in the city, ~'patronized by
American captains and has files Of New
York papers" and the Chapter Coffee
House, where DR.. johnson and his coterie
ireQuented, finding it lis yet the resort Of
penny a liners and newspaper readers"
A table of expenses for the English trip
may arouse poignant regret for the old,
old days in more than one modern pilgrim.
1t reads: !
Expenses OF 4 TRAVELLING BACHELOR IN 1881.