The National tribune. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1877-1917, 1907-05-16
BY SONORA SARA.

The Summer girl who has been bud
ing for some time is now ready to burst
into bloom. and she Is certainly thing
of beauty If not Joy forever. The
Summer girl IS very largely a tailor
made girl in Winter, and she hates
nightly to give up her trim, neat suits,
SO she tries to form her Summer gowns
after the same fashions, and succeeds
admirably. But how she does fool the
menl Men admire the tailor-made girl,
but they deplore the cost of her. They
know what tailors' bills are, and they
know also that only the practised hand
lean shape the cxquisitely modelled gar
ments into which tho costliest of fab
RIGS anter, and they know. too, that
the dainty boots, gloves and hats which
accompany such gowns are OF the finest
manufacture. hence expensive. They
adore tho Summer girl, and give her
fufsome compliments on the exquisite
simp licity of her attire. not knowing
that it costs as much again as the Win
ter gownIng! Elegance OF any kind
costs money--lots of money; but ele-
CANT simplicity is simply the acme of
responsiveness in gowning. But, bless
you'll you can't make the men believe
| It.: yet those of them who wear white
duck trousers and cream flannel tennis
suits ought to know something about
it.
The tailor-made Summer girls tros-
seau runs to duck, linen and white
woods. The ducks and linens are tailor
made. Sometimes they are pretty and
quite often they are not. 1t Is pity.
but fact nevertheless, that cottons
will soil; white or black. they get grimy
and have to be laundered or cast aside.
With all the discoveries that science has
made. the art lies sleeping yet that win
give to harassed womankind a cotton
that will not fade or full" or, to use
the common term, draw up" in wash
ing. The pretty duck and linen suits
are so tempting. with their plain. trim
skirts and jaunty Jackets. but when
certainly a sight. If the material has
been bit, twisted in the cutting, or the
patterns have been laid on awry, II all
shows in the laundering. and often all
but ruins the usefulness Of the gar
ment. A little care in the matter of
selecting and cutting out would SIM
plify matters.
Cotton. with Straight Prints.
When you are purchasing be careful
to select only such materials as are
printed straight and that are not twist
ed in the dressing till the filling runs
almost bias of the fabric. woman
who is used to cutting knows what a
criss-cross- the-bias 1t gives some
materials to tear them across instead
Of cutting, and If you do not discover
this defect and correct It before start
ing on your work it will be for naught,
for nothing human could wear such a
garment with any comfort or self re-
spect. Even the end of the fabric by
pulling a thread, and then you nave a
starting point. II the goods is dressed
crooked, pull 1t till it is straight and
then press 1t into shape with hot iron.
Lawns, muslins and calicoes are more
apt to be crooked than any other kinds
of goods. Lay your patterns on the
fabric with the straight of the warp. If
you vary the sixteenth part of an inch
from this rule your dress waist, par
ticularIy If 1t is plain. will run bias of
your back in the most exasperating
manner, and your dress skirt will
hike" up in most unexpected places.
Make your wash dresses without lin
ing if possible. Cut the dress skirt two
inches longer all around than required
and turn it in that much at the top
ing. When the skirt is laundered-or,
rather. before you consign it to the
suds-rip the belt off and let down the
skirt. sewing the belt on tight. When 1t
comes home you will find that It Is just
about the right length, but If it had
been put on the belt in the ordinary
way. with no extra length to fall back
short dress on your hands to be pieced
down or cast aside, It the skirt has
ruffles on 1t you can NE s.ea.ii.e Il with less
trouble by fastening firmly on the belt
as usual and then running tuck on the
wrong side Just above the ruffle close
to the heading. where 1t cannot be dis
covered at all. Before washing, rip the
tuck open, and your frock will come
home Just about as good as new. If
the m atorfa1 ia Huc1S ar 1fnons IN a hoct
to turn 1t in at tho top.
The Laundry In View.
Always mako the waist and Jacket
of wash dress little large. and take
deep seams. II fastened to belt, leave |
at least two. inches at the bottom; you
will need IT all after the first washing. |
If 1t is a waist or Jacket bodice, about
all you can do is to run the seams down
little longer, or, as tho dressmaker
says. take them up little to make |
the form longer. You can nearly al