The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-12-01
An Oriental journey
BEING THE PLAIN NARRATIVE a



aspect greatly at variance from the
purpose OF their creation. Everywhere
there were plenty If idle men. ana for
the first time in ny life looked upon
8 population of which no one was in a
bury. The rock of Gibraltar is majes-
tic in itself. but it loses nothing in its
appeal TO the imagination when We
sense the facs THAI deep IN the inner
most recesses of its upper half are the
most potential weapons of destruction
the hand of mar can devise. To re-
lieve the anxiety OF numerous incuir-
ers, I VIII state that the name ''Pru-
dentiaP' does not appear on the face
cf this gigantic rock.
Naples.
Everyone on the steamboat. l pre-
sumo had been looking forward to the
voyage through the Mediterranean,
having heard much about its blue wa
tiers, clear skies and balmy air. Alas,
The disappointment to human hopesl
No part Of the trip was more disagree
able, nowhere more tempestuous wa
tiers. blacker clouds or colder winds.
Seasickness came TO half the passen-
gers one day out from Naples. and the
captains dinner was not a joyful oc-
casion. But as we sailed into the bay,
the sun shone brightly and the exqui-
site scene before us charmed our
senses. Yet have but one distinct i'm
preston of Naples, and that is not of
Vesuvius. whose smoke could be dimly
seen in the distance: nor yet of it's his
toric streets and environs; but the rec
objection of the Neapolitan hack driver
viii be mine forever. l am assured
that, of all the artistic possessions OF
that part of Italy, nothing comes nearer
perfection, each in its own way, than
the picturesque, repellent citizen who
sits on his carriage box and brutally
mauls his horse. THESE drivers have
an international reputation and MAIN
tain it. They are mostly escaped or
discharged convicts, and look like viii
lains who would willingly stab you in
the dark. l was reminded of the young
woman who, in discussing murderous
weapons Of the Italians, said she would
not mind being shot, but didn't want to
be ''dagged-" Our passage had been
booked for Alexandria, before leaving
New York, so that we could stay in
Naples only over night. This gave but
a few brief hours for a drive around
the outside Of things. and Of course, no
time for any side trips. We had to pass
by all the beauties of Naples proper,
the attractiveness of Vesuvius. Pompeii,
Sorrento and Capri, and embark on the
final stage of the journey to the land
of the Nile. Our boat sailed through
the straits of Messina, passing Strom-
boil and the Sicilian mountains in the
distance. Neither Scylla nor Charyb-
dis seemed to have any terrors for our
pilot, and we drew near Alexandria on
the evening of the fourth day
Alexandria.
First. we perceive in the dim horizon,
a white lighthouse; then two solitary
factory chimneys appear; then others
spring UP as If by magic, then all at
once this great ancient city brought up
to date, comes into view. The viceregal
palaces are in the foreground, close to
the sea. We pass around a point, and
enter the sea canal, when we are at
last face to face with the domes and
minarets of an Oriental city. When the
boat has been made fast, hordes of col
OTed men in feZ and turban, swarm on
board TO carry the baggage from the
boat. Blocking up the passage ways
and jabbering in their unknown tongue,
they add much to the natural
confusion Our party, not wishing TO
remain in Alexandria all night, make
frantic efforts to reach the station in
time for the o'clock Cairo train. But
the delays at the custom house, and
the long drive for the drays, cause us
to stand in impotent despair and see
our train roll away while the trunks
are being dumped on the platform.
Procuring an English-speakin guide,
we finally were established in a poor
hotel for the night The good ones were
all full, this being the busy season for
tourist travel. There is not much 10
interest one in Alexandria, unless he
stops long enough to investigate its
looks and old quarters with reference
to their historical associations. We
visited Pompey's Pillar, erected about
300 A. D, to commemorate the capture
Of Alexandria by Emperor DiOcletian.
Two large columns were brought here
by Caesar or Cleopatra to adorn the
Caesarium. One was removed to Lon
don, its counterpart TO New York,
where il is known as Cleopatra's Nee
die. We drove over the city, getting a
Eirdseye view of its fine streets and
business blocks, its palaces, public
squares and 'statuary. We entered a
temple and ancient tomb from the
Egyptian period, but these things pale
into insignifcance before the treasures
subsequently revealed. Nearly 80 per
cent of the foreign commerce, compris-
through Alexandria. Here, also, are
the chief offices of the customs. The
market at Cairo deals only with the
produce from the Sudan, such as india
rubber, skins. SIENNA leaves, ostrich
feathers and ivory; but the great sta
pie crops of cotton, cotton seed, sugar,
onions. lentiis and similar products. are
dealt in almost entirely at Alexandria.
The Delta.
a four hours ride on good train
brings US to Cairo, as the distance is
only Il little over 100 miles. We have
now Travelled through the famous Delta
Of the Nile embracing within and ad-
jacent thereto about 100000 acres of
land. 1t opens out from Cairo north
ward like a fan, the river having di-
vided into two parts, one emptying
near Alexandria, the other sixty miles
east. This latter branch runs through
the fertile Fayoum region, which,
however. We did not have an opportu-
a. -gr-ge q