New-York tribune., 1907-06-30
c1or77era OF ~ocfefy i'm Trade.
Oressmains Millinery Phoogr apply Interior Decoration Some
of the Occupations in

It is difficult state exactly'when it became the
fad for women ofsociety 10 gotinto trade but it is
a fact that this interesting development has taken
pace within the last two generations II was in
England that women of title first opened shops TO
dispose of their haIdiwork in the hat line and
found eager and apDgeciative public ready TO
patroaze them. Anyth hing that was concocted under
the auspices of Lady So-and-So. no matter how
bizarre and crude nor how unbecoung to the Gus
TONER, eagerly bought.
After the anazement of tsociety at this proceed
ing had somewhat abated other impoverished
with historic names lopened tea rooms. and
managed. by clever catering and artistic
furnishings. TO make their occupation a huge sue
cess. both financially and socially. Tea rooms be-
came permanent institutions, where one could drop
l.. cor a cup of her particular brewing with
the certainty of meeting many friends intent on
the same end 1t MAJ have been the tales Of
triumphs which errvelopel all that the aforesaid
English women attempted with roseate halo that
influenced American girls break loose from
vention and seek like independence, for when
necessity arose the Misses Lawrence. daughters OF
Judge Lawrence, followed the example of their
friends across the sea. Oddly enough their taste
also ran toward hat making, and at this they were
as clever as the best French women dared
hope to be Their toques and picture hats were
built with rare chic. After period of great pros
perity their business had grown to such a degree
that . partnership formed with Miss Harmon
Brown, who in time completely absorbed the com
pany. she soon found that there was field
for far more than the sale OF hats among her
wealthy customers, who often complained that
only in Paris could dainty little handmade arti-
cles Of fine lingerie be bought. Accordingly.
Miss Julia Carroll established with the
firm for the purpose OF designing 1natnees corset
covers, petticoats Of the friIiest order and lust
such bits o. prettiness she knew would appeal
TO women Of her own class. who knew all about
what they wanted in every detail except how II
was made IN course Of time Miss CaIroIPs Glen
tele became SO large that she had 10 have a place
OF her own Then She branched out into gowns Of
aiI descriptions, making speciality OF imported
ones. In fact all Of these tradeswonlen realize
/ the Importance cf imported models, and whether
hats gowns their specially they soUrne,, ruc
n year 20 Paris for fashions latest touches spend
days with friends.
About the same time, that Miss Carroll forsook
society for the sterner demands of earning money
MSS Selma schroeder also took up dressmaking
as something more than pastiYne and her davs
Were SO nIed with fittings and dress plannings
among the young Of society mafrons an6
maids that the Cinderella dances the Sands class
the Patriarchs.' Assemblies and Badrninton had
70 do without Of the most popular of the 7eb,,
tantes Of the season, for Miss Schroeder forsook
these gayeties shortly after her coming out The
success she net with es long as she continued in
business should give encouragement TO any girl
VINO fears to enter upon such a career Al,hough
@ gulee inexperienced very young and physically
strong Miss Schroeder established q reputation
for ability in every branch Of her ,Indertai-g +ba+
Is still quoted On many occasions
Inc MISSES Cooley, also OF Westchester are fol-
lowing IN her wake a makers of gowns and onI,,
door or two from their shop Miss Katharine
candy mas hers for exclusive hat models
Much has been said about the way prices go ,1p''
saoFtly aIter a beginner finds herself well estab-
ushed IN any branch of trade and abo,,t ,Lts ,
Few words should be said in explanation In the
beginning the woman has leisure to do much With
her own hands; she keeps her own books super-
Vises the fittings and frequently does much of the
sewing ana IN her eagerness To make the where
MlulaI 10 pay the wages to her sewing girls her
ehop rent ana her own living expenses she slaves
overtime and allows herself margin for health
ful recreation or even necessary rest burning the
candle at both ends furiously and ncessantly I'm
der this almost suicidal system she probably can
afford TO sell customer dress for S5 or s25 less
tnan some OF fAer fellow tradeswomen. Then too
the latter have wider field TO coD1neta an go
this without the criticisms that come from cus
TONERS who are friends, and who are the ones
therefore most to be feared and catered to es
they are the nuclens around which the business
must be built. AS the business increases the eI
penses more than double. A forewoman Of The