The Washington herald., 1907-11-25

enormous hats. With the advent of au-
tumn the hats grew out of all proportion
10 the face and head Of the wearer.
From the theater. where no French
woman would condescend TO remove her
keadgear, came a general complaint At
last Dame Fashion comes 70 the rescue
and sounds the knell 10 the picture hats
and rings in the advent of small toques.
But with the decrease in the size of the
hats the coiffetres will increase. The new
toques viii rest amid n veritable mass OF
curls. which for the most part owe their
being 10 the new coiffuer
The advent of winter will also be
marked by the return OF tight-ftting prin-
cesse dresses.
For the next two or three months Paris
modes are definitely established. For
morning. tailored costumes come in rough
cloths Of one color and in pretty. indis-
tinct plaids or stripes. The coats are half
long, either close-ftted or with loose
fronts. having square or rounded corners.
The sleeves are usually long and straight,
Tor wide japanese sleeves are reserved for
large manteaus GOwned thus. with
pretty hat, harmonzing with the face,
with correct shoes and gloves. the true
Parisienne is easily singled out from
fashionable. If mixed, crowd of elegantly
gowned women.
A smart model lately turned out
is a habit coat particularly distinguish
ed. Ii Is OF velvet, in the shape
Of the coats worn by a French marshal
of the First Empire. In front it is cut
short and straight. ending at the waist
line. At the back it is well fitted. with
short coat tails, Large buttons are placed
at the high waist line. and the seams
are outlined with braid. The open fronts
show a waistcoat with a lace jacOt and
high plated stock OF white null. But
tons TO match those at the back are on
each side Of the front. This looks par
ticularly well when worn with a skirt OF
tabac brown or blue cloth The skirt is
pleated. and above the hem is a broad
band OF velvet. like the skirts of French
peasants
Stripes have by no means been aban-
dcned. though they were worn 10 a dis
tressine extent last season They are
usually Of ore color. in two shades. For
evening wear they ara truly lovely when
hung over pale tinted silk softened by a
secondary foundation Of chiffon. gown
~ black and white mousseIine de sole
the stripes measuring two inches. had its
skirt gathered full into a yoke-shaped
band Of shirrs. The underskirts were Of
two shades Of pink. the palest on top
These delicate tones so softened the black
and white Of the stripes that it was al
most impossible 10 tell the color OF the
gown. The bodice was pretty melange
of gray lace laid over the two shades OF
pink. and had long. hanging. Oversleeves
OF the striped material
A matinee. too lovely TO hide IN ones
bCudoir is Of white hlet lace and en-
brOidery. IL is hung from a high yoke is
half long. and has rounded fronts over
the yoke falls "a wide cape collar. also
with rounded fronts This and the edge
or the lower part are hounced with wide
lace. There are pufed sleeves Of the
hlet, finished with lace flOunceS, shorter
on the inside Of the arms. II is worn
over lace-frilled petucOat. and a daintly
trimmed corset cover, which is SEEN for
the fronts DO not meet They fasten on
each side Of the bust under long ribbon
ends. The hlet lace is deliberately en-
broidered with heavy Irish lace motifs,
and pleated white chiffon lines It.
Fashionable couturieres are introduc-
ing bits OF fur in the trimmings OF
blouses. even where the gown material is
of the lightest and most delicate texture.
and incongruous IS this seems. the result
justtfes the novel use Of the skins.
For a woman with a good figure who
makes TO pretence TO youth is a charming
costume Of black silk and glossy black
broadcloth. The skirt hangs beautifully,
close over the hips and sweeping into
nice. soft fullness at the hem Down the
middle Of the front II closes with fiat but
tons and real buttOnholes. made promi-
nent by the edges being bound with braid
instead Of the usual buttonhole stitch. On
the bottom of the side breadths are in
terIacing wheels made Of a large velvet-
covered cord as thick as ones finger.
This cord follows all the edges and
adorns the sides of full-szirted, half
long coat Of blacl, faiHe silk. the vale
unusually large. \ narrow waistcoat Of
white and gold embroidered silk has
handsome jeweled buttons TO close it to
the throat On one edge is gathered a
frill If fine white lace six inches wide:
this is twisted into knot AT the base OF
the throat. designed TO be kept in place
by jeweled pin The three-quarter long
coat sleeves have immense upward turn
ing cuffs finished by the cord. wide lace
frlls falling we'll over the hands
a Ii 'sS- dress Of silver gray velvet rs
soft as mOussellnt de sole, has its skiT-
hung high at the back. shaping a little
lower in front. over long shirred sleeves
OF gray chiffon hang wlng-like ones of
the velvet. The corsaga is composed OF
a sleeveless bolero OF gray guipure lace.
embroidered with silver
All great designers have their special
characteristics. At one Rue de Ia Paix
house the prevailing note is the long.
slender silhouette. The skirts closely en-
brace the hips. but are somewhat COM
plicated with tunics. peplums and a
plethora Of garniture. The eOrsages are
tight fitting and nearly all have long
sleeves that point over the fingers. 70
wear with this mode are new corsets.
still straight in front. but longer and
closer over the hips-more sheath-like-
than the corsets Of the last few years.
A skirt seen at this house showed a
pretty trimming that was also pleasantly
novel. Five or six narrow tucks were
set a little above the edge at a well
judged distance apart. The edge of each
one We finished with hand stitchery.
done in a long chain stitch with an ex-
tremeiy coarse silk that stood out cffec-
- lively. 4 second skirt was buttoned
its entire length on each side with large
ornamental buttons with long. false but
tonhOies A third gown. I'm princess form.
had tablier reaching from a little below
the chin to the floor Graduating a little