davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20
Smart Shoes

THE vogue of the short skirt
1 has a great deal to do with tho
strong demand for attractive foot
wear this season.
Though the shoes and hosiery
shown for the long skirt are per-
haps more elaborate than they have
been for seasons. yet the woman in
the short skirt is more particular
about having her footwear faultless.
A surprising number of smartly
gowned women are displaying high
French heels and sheer silken hose
with gowns of ankle length, while
others prefer the Cuban heel and
hose a trifie more substantial.
Low shoes will be worn as long
as the weather permits, and, from
one extreme to the other, the high
boot will take its place.
Suede boots having fifteen but.
tons are shown and are one Of the
sensational innovations for winter.
Judging from the display in tho
custom shoemakers' windows tho
extremely high shoe will be the
fancied style during the winter
season.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20
Novel Idea for Pockets

of the corset cover with might
otherwise shine forth.
Another simple idea is to utilize
the left sleeve; that is, in the
three-quarter length, and just at
the bend of the arm, where the
cuff joins on, making little slit,
buttonholed in daintily. 1t will
scarcely show and will be hidden in
the sleeve, proving a great boon to
the pocketless.
Again, where frills cover the
front of the waist a pocket can be
hidden easily.
The opening on one side Of the
front affords a very handsome
sized pocket.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20
Stocks for aists

THE fashionable separate waist
for winter is to be tailored.
In all instances it is finished
with a little collar band.
To meet this need a multitude of
washable and removable collar
shapes are en- the market.
There are silk and duck, pique
and linen in every conceivable
grade.
All are a great deal higher than
the collar forms of the last sea-
son, either severely plain or elab-
oratcly trimmed.
In the embroidery turnover COM
binations of solid and eyelet en-
broidery are shown.
Many deep lace flaps are appear
ing also, arranged on half-stiff
collar band. These are to be worn
with stocks.
There are standing collars
shown embroidered almost to the
edge, but without flaps.
The turnover shapes have made
necessary numerous little jabot
and fly ties, and these, too, will be
popular all winter.
An entirely new winged collar,
With little round wings turning
back from the center of the front,
is among the newest of the neck
wear.
The tie worn with these collars
band the neck and may be of rib
bon, made long tie or the Wind
sor, which is shown in innumera-
bic varieties.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20
New Gloves

GLOVES for everyday wear are
~ shown in pale shades Of fawn,
tan and gray, coffee brown, mocha
and doeskin. The soft, fairly thick
kids are preferred.
The favorite gloves are mousque-
taires, with elastic or wrist straps
in lieu of buttons. There are also
innumerable short gloves to meet
the demand for the long sleeves.
Wash leather mousquetaires, with
pinked edge, are among the prolAi-
nent winter glove fashions, and are
already meeting with a great deal Of
success.
The smart glove is, as usual, of
glace or suede in pale grays and
fawns and in cream and white. 1t is
also dyed in deep shades of blue and
other colors, in order that the one
tone id, in dress may be carried
ont
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20
Dressmaking Problems
Solved

SLEEVES should be pinned in
place on thewearer before they
are stitched in. Slee. seams are
overcast. Sew dress shields in to-
ward the front, not straight down,
and put needle only through the
bind. Tack the under part twice to
the linil.. of the waist.
There is but one satisfactory way
to put more width into a skirt a
4oer or two old in style, and that is
to introduce fan pleats on the side
cores, at the bottom of the skirt.
When the material cannot be
Il ltched, should it be a voile or a
barege, use an inexpensive check or
stripe of the same shade.
These pleats may be laid on the
bias if preferred. In that case let
the same bias silk enter into parts
of the bodice.
Do the same intermingling with
the silk when it is plain, striped or
checked.
Before dveing lace it should be
perfectly clean, for, at the best,
when being around the house some
little time, it is apt to acquire a
gray shade, which will change to
white if a good soaking in warm
soapy water is given.
For the dye to take a clear tint
the lace must be perfectly clean,
and the lace should be left day
and night in the first water, and
then changed to another bath for a
similar length of time.
A final rinse in warm water
should be given before dyeing. It
is well to dye Immediately, while the
lace is still wet.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20

also used in walking hats.
1t looks as if the very fiat Span
ish effects would erd i'll being the
thing for tailor-made hats.
The first illustration pictures a
hat of black silk with a slightly roll
ed brim and a scarf of green. The
green wings are tipped with black.
One of the newest models of neck
wear is shown, with a scarf tie like
q mans, in green and black, with an
emerald pin stuck through.
In the second model is shown a
hat of blue with a bow of green rib
bon with a large dot of black. The
stock is of sheer linen, tucked, and
the top is band of baby Irish with
a cravat of black satin.
These black cravats are worn on
the dressiest of blouses.
In the third illustration a Pier
rot collar of sheer hand-embroider-
ed linen is worn, with pleating top
and byttom. The hat worn is of At
lantic blue colored taffeta.
The next hgure shows smart
neck dress for a girl with a short
neck, as the vertical tucks give q
long look to the neck. 1t is made of
Val lace and sheer linen. The hat
is of one of the prune shades of vel
vet, with ermine scarf.
The fifth drawing is one of the
smartest collars seen in Paris. It
is of sheer linen, all embroidered
and tucked by hand. The embroid-
cred edge is in color to match tho
pin stripe of the blouse it is worn
with. These tiny pin-striped blouses
are to be much worn. The hat is IN
green and brown.
The last illustration shows the
very newest design that is being
shown at Georgette's, in Paris.
The hat is of white felt, with
black bow.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20

To be exact, these new vests re-
peat the forms and materials of the
vests of the silk and velvet clad men
of centuries ago.
Some of the vests are fine, plain
or family figured material bound
with black satin or velvet, or again
with silk braids, kid or leather.
There are the rich brocades which
combine all the colors of the east
ern shawls and are heavily embroid-
cred in Asiatic designs.
There are vests that end at the
waist line, and others above it;
some, too, that continue down to
the foot of a forty-inch coat.
These are handsome and impos-
ing for the matron.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20

10 BE W Il gowned without be-
coming hat and a smart we'll
arranged collar is an impossibility.
No one understands this better
than the clever French woman, and
it is one of the secrets of her sue
cess in dressing.
The smart high collars, which
are such an essential feature of this
seasons styles, may be easily made
at home.
A new feature of these collars is
the delicate-hucd tinsel ribbon run
through buttonholes in batiste and
linen c ,ars and then knotted to
form ends in front. Cuffs are worn
to match, and are edged on three
sides with Val, and again the knots
of ribbon are used.
Another set that is In good taste
for wear with the tailored frock Is
made of white linen delicately
striped in light blue embroidery and
embroidered in the wider spaces
with dots a shade darker than the
stripes. \ border of plain linen one
inch wide is applied to the edge.
Stocks are shown made of Val
lace combined with fagoted bands
Of lawn. Their chief beauty lies in
the pretty yoke and vest effect it
gives. Plain and polka dot lawn
are also greatly in favor for the
tailor-made frock.
Many Of The new stocks have a
tendency to assume a lop-sided air.
given by placing the rutfles adorn-
ing the front all on one side, in
stood Of placing them in the middle
Of the blouse.
For tie tailored hats a great deal
Of green Is to be used, and the
mushroom influence is strongly felt,
hut somewhat modified, so that the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20
How to Make PRESSING Board

DRESSING :. garment is half of
the making. A nicely made
garment will be ruined if it is not
properly pressed.
In the majority of cases the anna
teur dressmaker either allows the
garment to become shiny or else the
seams are not sufficiently pressed
to have a neat finished look.
All this may easily be overcome
if care is taken. First, the ironing
board should be well padded. An
old comfortable is admirable for
this purpose. This should be tack
ed along one edge of the under side
of the board.
Be sure TO use tacks that are suf-
fciently long to go we'll into the
board, then stretch the comfortable
or blanket tightly across the top,
and tack them fast along the other
underneath side.
This padding may remain on
indefinitely, so be sure to have it
well stretched and firmly, closely
tackled.
Old sheets make the best ironing
cloths. Double and pin securely to
the blanket on each side of the
board. or they may be sewed on
with large stitches if preferred.
But as these coverings should be
frequently changed, perhaps. after
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20
B1ouses for Smart TailorMades

MYTH the smart tailor mades
" little French blouses of soft
colors developed in null are shown.
Hand embroidery is a feature of
these waists, but not in lavish
quantities.
The style best liked is pleated
over the shoulders to give full
front. The pleat covering the but
tons is often decorated with a
dainty tracing of white embroidery,
as are also the bands finishing the
long sleeves.
Marie Antoinette pleatings edged
with narrow lace often appear on
both sides of the bands.
The newest pleatings of this
character are much wider than
those Of last summer, which were
such a grievance when the laundress
was encountered.
High turnover collars embroid-
cred to correspond with the design
of the blouse are now Numbered
without starch and worn over a
stiff white band that fits the throat
closely.
Instead Of the silly little ro-
settles of lace and ribbon that have
been worn the smart girl now
wears wide ribbon bow pinned to
the corners of her collar with q
gold riding-crop or whip or a pref
ty jewel-decorated feather meas
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20
The Latest Hats and Neckwear for the Tailored Frock

pronounced bowl effect of the last
season is lacking.
The downward droop is still con-
spicuous, and only few of the new
tailored hats roll back from the
face.
Surely the lady who steadfastly
refuses to wear any hair on her
head but what is firmly rooted there
Will have a hard time in choosing
hat for her tailored frock
Mrs. Fashion insists that curls
and puffs galore shall supply the eff
feet which nature in most cases has
neglected to make possible, and all
hats are designed for the most bout
liant coiffures.
The latest ediet is the back POM
padouzc, if so it may be called. with
its crown of Nesting curls, and it
must be pinned to the hat brim with
long ornamental pins.
No bandeaux should be placed in
these hats.
They are worn fiat and far back
on the head, some having rims 80
wide in the back that they touch the
shoulders and entirely conceal the
hair.
Georgette has some very good
toques, too. Even fur toques are
being shown.
One of the latest is the Spanish
toreador shape, a crown of claret
felt and an edge of sable, loops and
ends of the fur. The latter finished
with little tassels falling over the
left ear. A great many quilts arc
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20
Corset Novelties

a Ii dainty sorts of conceits are
shown in the French corsets.
They are often of exquisite flow
cred cottons and silks, as well as of
plain silks.
One lowered pair, dull cream
French calico, spotted with pink
buds, showed silk strings with ex-
actly the same pattern.
Another coquet in the corset fam
lily was delicately perfumed with
two thy satin scent sachets cons
cealed -nder the bust lace.
Garter scent bags, which conical-
1y ELL each side of the garter top,
are still another French freak.
Detachable fiounces of the dam
test ribbons and laces are shown
TO- -'''>~ 0r,+ no -':r1 figure.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20

A NOVEL idea for pocket for
- the blouse that buttons down
the back is to cut slit close to the
stitching of the pleats or tucks in
the front.
This slit is about four inches
long upward from the belt. The
edges are bound and false hem Is
stitched on the lower edge. The
edges are securely fastened with a
few buttonhole stitches, which pre-
vents the slit from tearing.
Unless the material is very sheer
and thin, this makes an excellent
substitute for the pocket or pouch
of the shirtwaist which opens in
the front.
The false hem covers any glimpse
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20
The Vest Extremely Fashionable

WITH scarcely an exception the
" waistcoat or vest figures in
all the new street and reception
dresses.
1t is spoken of as the mannish
touch in the seasons gowns.
1t is far from what it really is,
however.
The vests shown are soft, rich,
womanly, and the most feminine of
women need not hesitate to adopt
it.
Nevertheless, it is real vest.
1t is most frequently made of
light fabrics, brocaded or embroid-
cred silks or satins and cloths.
1t is cut high and low, V-shaped
or U-shaped, like mems evening
vests of a few seasons ago.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20

all, pinning is really the best meth
cd.
The amateur dressmaker will be
well paid for fixing up an ironing
or pressing board in this way, as
seams may be perfectly pressed on
such a board without becoming
shiny.
For pressing all dark materials it
is wise to keep a cotton cover for
that purpose alone, as colored ma
terials are apt to stain.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20
Fitting and Finish
ing Skirts

LIE urSt SIDE scam and the
seam next the placket show
whether a skirt is cut and draped
properly. The side seam should run
down in almost a straight line from
the hip to the lower edge. If it
slants backward, it gives the figure
the effect of fitting forward.
The seams on each side of the
placket should run in a straight
sweeping line from the waist to the
lower edge of the skirt at the back.
If they run toward the sides,
very wide, ungraceful appearance
is given the hips from the back.
Every day one sees in the streets
skirts that have this fault, the re-
suit of incorrect fitting at the waist
line. The waist measure CORE.
spending with the hip measure has
been too large for the figure.
Instead of taking in more at the
dart seams, or the top of the gore
seams, it has been turned in at tho
pleat at each side of the placket,
drawing the seams backward at the
waist line.
There should never be any in
reference with these pleats at the
back closing. They should be care
FULLY mar ked from the pattern ami
pasted to position before fitting.
If they twist or draw in any way,
the correct effect of the center
hack will be lost.
The fold edges of the pleats
should be .itched down a few
inches, and below this should hang
IN good line close to each other to
the bottom of the skirt, practically
concealing the seam at the center
back.
A common mistake is the use of
a pattern with hip measure too
small. This results in a drawing
apart of the pleats in the back from
the waist down.
Binding with a bias strip of a
lightweight material is the usual
method of finishing skirt seams.
The Importance of pressing should
always be borne in mind.
Remember that over very round
hips one or the other edge of the
seams from the hip to the waist
will sometimes seem to need to be
fulled into the other in order to
make it hang properly.
Gather the seam edge where the
fitness seems to be required, draw
this gathering thread to hold the
seam to the same length as that
to which it is to be joined, then
wet and shrink the gathered edge
with a hot iron.
This is an operation that needs
care, but it is most satisfactory
when properly done, giving a fs
over the hips that cannot be &C.
quired in any other way.
For a plain seven or nine gored
skirt simple Tapped seams make a
good tailored finish, and they may
lap either toward the front or back.
They are basted in the usual
seam fashion, then both raw edges
are turned in the same direction.
showing on the outside a Tapped
effect Of one gore over the other,
and stitched from the outside
about three-sixteenths of an inch
from the fold edge.
When the basting is removed the
Tapped edge is left free from the
stitching line.
The length of a skirt is best
marked with chalk by second
person while the wearer of the
skirt stands on a raised platform.
A patented marking device, foot
measure. a yardstick or an even
length of cardboard may be used as
a measure in marking at the de-
sired distance from the floor.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20
Knockabout Hats

U NOCKABOUT hats are jaun-
II lily worked out in gun-metal
felt.
They are slightly rolled in front,
with dropping rim in the back.
These shapes are shown simply
but effectively trimmed with gray
and white notified cog feathers or
with clusters of natural turkey
plumage running back on either
side.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20

uring from five to six inches in
length.
This fancy, which has been
brought from Paris by the return
ing girl tourists, has succeeded in
becoming very popular in an ex-
ceedingly short time.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20
Neckwear Novelties

THE collar band with a plastron
reaching to the waist IS one of
thu most fashionable dress orna-
ments, and is made of guipure,
TcLcriffe and ilet lace, and of cam
brio killed or gath-r red and lace
edged.
1t is no unusual thing for the new
lace plastron sets to be strapped
with narrow bands of cambria, put
g., plain or in scroll design. Some of
the prettiest of these are of Greek
lace, three inches wide.
Very charming sets are shown of
white lawn, with double killings on
either side of a center band of cam
brio. plain or studded with small
linen buttons. These plastrons are
sometimes hemstitched along the
edges, or hemmed with colored lawn.
Apart from the trimmings, which
often reach to the waist, are the
shorter types of neckwear with col
lar bands and bibs and little jakots,
yoke collars and French bows of
plain and embroidered muslins that
are such an attractive addition TO
simple shirts and blouses.
A touch the Parisienne is strongly
attached to is the addition of a
small frill of lace as a heading to a
high collar band of net or lace in
sorting. Another thing that she is
wearing is the stiff linen collar with
closed front.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-20

The turnover shapes have made
necessary numerous little jabot
and fly ties, and these, too, will be
popular all winter.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12
New York and the Senate.

The breaking of q long silence by Thomas
c. Platt serves the purpose Of an inquiry.
Who will succeed him in the Senate?
Mr.. Piatt's days are over. He does not
think so. He insists that he must not be
counted out Of the game yet awhile.
Nevertheless. the power he once exerted is
his no longer. Nor will it ever be his
again. He lags superfuous. and = little
bilious on the stage. Younger men are at
the helm. and they do not look to him for
orders.
But are the conditions in republican cir
cles in New York which produced Mr.. Plat
a senator over? Has the party moved
beyond them? He won his ONCE, not by
qualifications for it. but by the arts of a
party manager. Neither party In the En-
pire state can rebuke the other on that
score. Fourteen years ago the democrats
put aside some very able men, any one of
whom wouldhave shone in the Senate. and
elected Edward Murphy. IT,. who. at best.
was but good caucus manager and or
ganizer. Except for small part in the
tariff fight in 1894. which he played under
the direction Of Mr.. German, Mr.. Murphy
was unheard Of in the Senate. The office
was wasted.
Mr. Plat came later, and has borne no
important part Ii tueWOIk OA Tie CidHiUcI.
Questions Of very great moment to New
York and all the states have been debated
and decided without word from him.
Without capacity for debate, or the read
ing necessary to make suggestions in writ
Ing. he has sat through some memorable
controversies, In which his constituents
were vitality interested. without contributing
a single sentence to them.
New York has not been satisfied with this
She has chafed under it. Although there
has been no party demand for it. Mr.. Platt's
resignation any time these past few years
would have caused much quiet rejoicing.
But now that the time approaches for the
election Of his successor what form will the
contest take? With the Plat lesson before
them. what will the New York republicans
do2 How far away from the Plat stand
ard Of senator will they be able to get7
New York does not stand alone In this
business. Other states have bestowed their
as rewards for very ordinary
party services performed by very ordinary
men. But New York. by reason Of her size
and history. should set a better example,
should at all times keep her own history In
mind when she commissioned men like
Francis Herman, and Roscoe Conkling. and
w. NJ Evarts. and David B. Hill to repre-
sent her In the most august legislative body
In the world.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-12
PERENNIAL ELLEN.

From the Indianapolis Star.
In selecting an Indiana man for her
third husband Ellen Terry evinces her
usual taste and discernment and amply
atones for any previous mistakes in the
matrimonial line.
From the Chicago News.
Ellen Terry does not have to ask any
body's consent when she wants to get
married.
James Carew. the actor, must suffer
the penalty paid by all men who marry
distinguished women He will be known
hereafter as Ellen Terry's husband"
From the Newark Morning Star.
Nobody objects to Ellen Terry's mar
rage. but for the sake OF the proprie-
ties she might have had IL performed
outside of Pittsburg.
From the Detroit News.
Having begun by marrying a man old,
enough to be her father, 1t Is no more
than fair that Ellen Terry should square
her account by marrying again to a man
who might be her son.
From the Albany Evening Journal
Mrs. Carew. she that was Ellen Terry.
cheerfully admits that she's fifty-nine.
but that doesn't necessarily signify q
known fixed habit.
From the Philadelphia North American.
Maybe Ellen Terry wanted to show that
she Is vet young enough to break into
vaudeville.