The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-05-05
HENS CLOTHES 80 YEARS AGO
COATS or MANY COLORS AND GOEs
GEOUS WATSTCOATS.

rs -
Green. Blue and Purple COats FOR Dress
Wear-WaistcOatS With Jeweiled But
tons -eplendor Even for Butlnes4
HOnrs-"A Little Display IN Dress
Tho men Of fifty years 9 who were
loyal subjects Of Dame Fafhion compare
with the 'bwell dressers' Of to-day about
q q bird OF peradise does with q cock robin.
Gays the Ameriedn Tailor and Gutter. Olive
green, blue and blue with q purple tinge
were popular colors for the dresseoat.
Scott In 1854 illustrated q dresScoat OF
Prusslan blue, which had large, plain gilt
buttons Ia front and at the back, d
double sleeve buttons OF gold cot With
precious stones worth several hundred
dollars"
The iavortte dreSs vest for 1855 was made
from a stone oolored satin, On which. emu
broldered In silver, were wreaths Of grape
leaves and a bunch Of grapes or pea leaves
and flowers Of natural coloFs, ~embroidered
in silk, or delicate vines ornamental win
moss roses, llles and violets. The buttons
we're sometimes each formed OF q cluster
OF brilllants or rubies, or an assortment o.
precious stones mixedi in the setting, accord.
ing TO taste Unless the coat was black,
the trousers were pearl drab.
For half dress the iavorite oolors for the
coat were dark purple, dark brown with an
olive nuance," cherry color, olive green and
purple brown. The collar. faoings and cufis
were often Of velvet to match the color OF
the cloth. The vest, generally double
breasted, was made from a salmon colored
cashmere or Valencia, or a rich, delicately
tinted silk plush with darker figures IN
various oolors, or from a FANCY silk--drab
scarlet and emerald being favorites.
The buttons were hatfaced, round or
oval shaped cameos, clustered gold rings,
painted porcelain, agate, precious stones
set In gold or silver. The trousers were.
Scott says, tight and tidy, falling with
ineiable grace upon a patent leather boot
inEs Of silk " . the buttons showing
the slight and graceful curve Of a welt
turned instep.' Apple green and golden
browns we're popular. and dove colore.
neutral tints and burnt lumber brown were
well liked. The Exclusive novelties were
bordered oassimeres, the border sonae-
times being three inches wide.
For business wear the coat and trousers
were made from mixtures Of light ehades.
The buttons were generally. OF ivory or
pearl, gold mounted, to match the color
Of the cloth, The vest was made from q
"high colored purple, scarlet, crimson, or
emerald green plush, cashmere or Valen-
Ola, and trimmed with gold mounted pearl
buttons or with needle wrought brocads
ures to nearly match the goods Of tho
The opers cloak, generally made from q
dark blue, was the favorte ~oversarTnsnt
for evening II had a narrow stand
Ing collar, closed ss a rule with . cord and
About the only overcoats worn hfty
years q were the surtout and the GreciAn
sack, the latter q loose box. These we're
made from olive green, olive browns, van
dyke. browns and bronze shades OF beaver
OF pilot cloth, The Grecian sack was very
popular. Scott said Of il in 1858, when ito
popularity was at lite height: The GrScian
sack is the only male garment Of the an
clients that has reached us through the nne
Of civilization without loss OF its distinctive
character" The color most in favor was
a very dark olive green. The collar and
ouffs were Of velvet and the Innings were
quilted in diamonds through cotton or
woollen wadding and interlining:"
1t lie interesting to note that in 1880 the
a white vest. for the first time became the
only unimpeaohably correct suit for even.
ing dress. THE blue dress coat Scott
says, In his spring and summer report OF
that year, 4is pas en- regie., but is admissible
for almost every ~oonvivial oocasion.'
In 1ee0-ei-e2, fancy vestings were even
more popular than they are now, and were
more fancy. For winter wear, WOODEN
veivets were the favorites. These beautiful
vestings were similar to uncu silk ~velVets,
and were sothick as to neceesitate . bound
b%uttonhole. The surface was as noh and
soft as the finest sable. Many Of them were
uncut, with curled and orifpped surfaces
in every variety Of color. Some OF them
resembled honey comb, and some were In
plaids, in the midst Of each Of which was
wrought q flower 1t would trouble q painter
10 initiate. Cashmeres resembling velvet
frzzed, spotted in all colore, and enlivensd
with small flowers. Some were knotted
on the surface as II spnnkled with golden
sand mixed with small emeralds and pre-
cious stones.
Vestings were certainly gay; but that they
did not seem extravagantly 90 at the time
is evidenced by a renark Of SCOTT apropos
Of some new patterns he had been descrb-
ing. He ingeniously says: We rather like
a httle display in matters O! dress"