The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-07-28
COLD DISHES ARE POPULAR
ELABORATE ICED DISPLAY SHOWN
IN RESTAURANTS.


-
introduced In the renderieln by tho Device
OF Naming Them After Theatrical
ManagcFs-One Famous Fffth Avenue
Hotel Slow 20 Adopt the Innovation.
Several years ago the proprietor Of a
French restaurant put on the table In the
middle OF his large room a collection OF
several cold dishes. In the midst OF the
group lowered a massive piece OF Ice.
Naturally the novelty pleased. New York.
crs took eagerly TO the cold fish salads and
tho vegetables which were 80 attraotively
arranged and were as tasty az they looked.
For q while this restaurant proprietor had
the cold dishes all to himself. His mon
opoly 10 broken now, however, for every
largo restaurant In New York Ii now de-
voting itself TO these same dishes in the
summer months.
They did not attain full popularity in the
upper Tenderloin until a new hotel put them
in the centre Of les large dining room and
served them 20 guests for inspection whether
they wanted them or not. The lunchers Of
the Tenderloin, used to more national
dishes az noon, at first viewed askance the
cold appetizers. Cold eggs served with
sauce ~mayonniase and stuffed with caviar
and mustard mixed with the yellow centres
did not appeal to them. Neither did fonds
d'drtichots cuddled in the half Of n hard
boiled egg and firmly held In place by tiny
fish and anchovies appear to them especially
stimulating to the appetite. Tomatoes
sliced with green peppers, cold salmon and
shrimps, together with thinly sliced potato
and celery salad, were also the sort OF .
bonnie bouche to which they were mao
customed.
So they went at them warily. In vain
the stewards would bring these hors
d oeuvres tothe contemplation Of the unch-
ers Who refused to show any excitement
over them. 1t almost looked as IL the
Tenderloin would remain cold to cold dishes
when the tide suddenly turned.
In the meantime. q very famous hotel
which had hitherto remained indifferent to
the popularity Of cold dishes in the Fifth
avenue restaurants decided hat il would
also get in line for the summer patronage,
which IL did not seem to be getting in full
measure. II would serve cold dishes also
and put them on view In the centre of the
main dining room which had been cooled
of for the summer trade by transferring
| it to a room usually used as a cafe. Here
with the iceberg glittering in the middle
Of the table we're displayed with the osten-
tation hat electric light made possible,
cold fishes and salads OF cold meat m
FISH, as well az the little dishes that were
TO provoke the appetite for these heartier.
more substantial foods.
Cold roast beef salad consists Of tender
slices OF the meat, some heart OF lettuce,
q few cold potatoes sliced and covered with
with cold green peppers sliced inthin slivers
and q tomato filed with chopped up cold
potato and celery. Cold veal 10 more fiery
in color. for the salad has as it's principal
ingredient red pimentoes, although there Is
s s's them SIled With chopped up cScumbers
soaked in water for a day.
Wonderful cold fowl is also to be found
! on this table. Breast Of chicken lies on a
! slice Of Virginia ham, the two resting on a
slice OF cold broiled Irish potato with aspic
| enclosing the whole. Half a cold roast
SQUAD 10 stuffed with cold asparagus tips.
enclosed in aspic and served with hearts
Of romaine salad about IL. The breast OF a
spring turkey Is also served on a slice OF
Virginia ham and green peas and in aspic.
Naturally his branch Of the chefs activity
met with immediate success. The manager
look ed at the checks after lunch and won
dered why in the world the proprietor had
been 80 hidebound as not to introduce be-
fore the cold dishes for which the patrons
In the Tenderloin, however, the demand
for these dishes did not already exist and
had TO be built 10. IT, proved possible
after a month, although &. without a GER
tain amount OF persuasion. Hslbut salad
a la Renaissance did not at FIRST appeal.
So the steward b~ethought himself OF Hall
but a Ia George Conan" The next day the
dish went like wildfre and nov the taste
for the salad is 30 well established that IL
II would win out under any title, for II On
sists Of a cold slice Of chick en-. halibut served
with cold string beans and spring peas
and covered with mayonnaise dressing.
Truites On dspic did not make much OF a hit
Of cold things. Then the dish was put
down as Brook Trout 4 Ia Marc klaw and
the guests tried IL. Now it's popularity W
established. The fish lies cold in aspic
isnked on one sid by a long. cucumber
other sits a fat tomato stuffed with ancho-
vies and ho~rseradish grated very fine.
then boiled in cream and put on ice.
II the name OF Rich Il Harris had not
been annexed TO what was first put out
as homard froid Mont Blanc that discovery
might never To- been so beloved a. Il
in to-day. IL In cold lobster taken from
the shells and laid on leaves Of crisp ro-
maine. Then comes a layer OF mayon-
naise IN top OF which rest tender
thin layer OF mayonnaise prepares for the
top dressing OF chopped celery and
slices Of hard boiled egg. II Is a veritable
Mont Blanc OF cold gastronomic delight.
two managers brought its wonders to the
ken Of the midday lunchers in the Tender:
loin. Virginia Ham, Belasco il served
With a salad Of green peppers and beets
and rests In its aspic cover on q slice OF
Swiss cheese. There are few managerial
dignitaries who have not been honored
in the attempt to acclimati8e the cold
dish In the Tenderloin. although there was