Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-03-16
MOURNING PERIODS
HOW LONG CUSTOM oRDAINs USE
OF BLACK.

The use of crepe is more noticeable than
ever, and while the periods of deep
mourning have been somewhat shortened of
late years, yet mourning itself might be
said to have become all the more fashion
able and is donned by many for quite dis
tant relatives. A widow wears crepe for
from eighteen months to two years, while
for q child or parent from twelve to eight
cen months is the accepted time. For a
brother or sister crepe is generally used
for at least nine months. and some au-
thorities state that 1t should be worn six
months for a grandparent but this last is
seldom adhered to. Deep black for from
six to nine months Is generally considered
sufficient Naturally the period of mourn
ing must be governed to a certain extent
by the individual case-the intimacy of the
relatives and the age of the one who desires
to show her respect. 1t is absurd. for in
stance, to keep a small child in mourning
for any length Of time, as black is neces-
sarily depressing. and with the very young
orally supposed to wear black for her aunt
or uncle for six months. but IL there has
been no special intimacy during lifetime
three months is certainly sufficient, and
frequently mourning Is omitted altogether
A cousin may wear light mourning for a
period Of six weeks or three months but
this is frequently omitted IL there has been
no special Intimacy. It Is, as a rule, the
custom with a large retinue Of servants for
the men and maids to wear black liveries
for a short while. but in small household
this is seldom attempted.
For a widow there Is nothing handsomer
than an all crepe frock relieved only by
the white collar and cuffs, with perhaps
some dull ribbon bead embroidery on the
bodice. Crepe in itself is really beautiful.
but by some is preferred as a trimming
than for the fashioning of an entire gown.
Wolfe trimmed with crepe and having a
deep crepe border about the skirt makes as
a az Ia 70
fashion when there are only such somber
textures to work with. There some
dulf-anished taffetas and silks that suit
able for the deepest mourning, but there
must be no sheen to any mourning fabric.
An all-crepe coat and short jacket makes a
silk dress more suitable, and IL the robe Is
Jacket Of this material helps to make an
effective garment.
One OF the most difficult problems in deep
mourning is the hat. and for young girls
this question requires much studying. For
tunately the little round bonnet with its
long, ungraceful crepe veil has disappeared
and in its place there is a medium-size
toaue with the veil put on in some way
that IS becoming and Is neither too awk
ward nor uncomfortable to wear. The veil
may be so attached that it is possible to
draw 1t down over the face IL desired A
large hat with long crepe veil is rather too
incongruous. to be In really good taste, and
while attempted from time to time this
style never receives much favor.
For a young girl any becoming model of
crepe, mourning silk or even straw trim
med with crepe is quite correct for the very
deepest mourning. A wide crepe veil like
the regular chiffon variety may be worn
over the hat, or chiffon or mourning
silk. one bordered all around with a wide
crepe band, is far more sensible than the
long attached veil and is perfectly con-
sistent with the deepest mourning. This
separate veil. however should be wider
than the average loose one, that when
worn down over the face it falls somewhat
ia nd uvh m
it quite covers the hat and falls down some
distance in back.
Selecting Hat.
After shape comes color. though this. of
course, should be determined by the tone Of
the gowns to be worn with the hat, either
harmonizing or contrasting.
While it is impossible to lay down any
hard-and-fast rules in regard to selecting
g. hat, a few general ones may be OBJ
served.
A tall woman may wear large all-black
hat, whether she be stout or thin; short
woman under the same conditions, should
avoid such a selection.
The slender woman of medium height
will need no special guide, but stout wom-
an of the same number of inches should
choose her hat Of medium proportions.
neither too large nor too small, and prefer
ably trimmed high.
A slender face will become a small hat
always unless the former Is too long, but
in choosing for q fat face the main point
to remember Is to take care that the sides
Of the hat extend beyond the cheeks-the
front and back effects are Of less impor-
tance-because. IL the hat is narrower than
the face the cheeks will look larger than
they really are.
As rule the saleswoman may be safely |
trusted far a becoming style is con-
cerned but. of course. she cannot be ex-
pected to know the condition Of the pocket |
book. or even any details to the rest of |
the toilet to be worn with the hat in ques-
ton, and so to help those who lack conf |
dence In their own taste or for any other |
reason I offer the benefit Of my own ex-