New-York tribune., 1907-10-13
Paris October 1

Each year Paris fashions are more and more
doctored and prepared for the foreign capitals.
Ball dresses, smart gowns, hats. cloaks' n1anteis
and fine linen are treated by the grand masters
of fashion just as the champagne magnates dose
their wines with greater or less degrees OF
sugar, or blend the primitive wines with grapes
of fiavors and bouquets Of varied selections TO
meet the requirements OF the palates of New
York London. ST. Petersburg, Vienna, Rome
Berlin or Buenos Ayres.
The first week of September marks the de-
parture from Paris of flights of modistes and
dressrnakers who carry the coming Paris
fashions" east west, north and south. The
American taste calls for certain exaggerations
Of cut or size, while London insists upon long
waists or well covered sleeves. and st. Peters
burg demands somewhat startling openwork
displays OF neck and shoulders. The September
DEGREES of fashion launched throughout the
world are more less experimental and pre-
mature, for not until October does the real
Partisan taste become definitely settled, or
crystalized. as il were. 1t is at the great
autumn race meetings at Auteuil and at Long
champs that one finds the earliest manifesto
tons OF real fashions for the coming season.
The fashions this week consecrated by the YER
diet Of smart Partisan society may be roughly
described the triumph for the woman with
a fine moulded figure
Gone Is the friendly indeflniteness Of the Jap
anese shoulder; gone also is the little misleading
bolero which so kindly threw into graceful per-
spective the waist that could scarcely bear close
inspection. The new models show a return 20
the fidelity of line Of the gowns of twenty years
ago. In the new frochs. fitting closely to the
figure bust waist and hips. If well proportioned,
viii show to the utmost advantage. The arm
hole will be back in it's normal place and cut
Fna eli sIrSlf ia
nearly to the wrist, and the only fulness per-
mitted will be round the decolletage. where. both
CAV and evening gowns will show some kind Of
drapery and decoration.
Yet the effect of the new dresses will be far
from plain These tight fitting garments WILL
in many instances, be merely overdresses, and
below the hips they will open out over under
skirts. richly trimmed in horizontal lines. 70
contrast with the long, straight panels of the
overdress Thus. a beautiful pink satin evening
gown will fall in panels over an underdress of
tucked mousseline de sole, every tuck of which
is edged with frills and which lies. many yards
in circumference, in billOwy folds Of frothy
chiffon round the feet OF the And for
winter wear the rich decorations of hand en-
brodery OF the summer fashions will give place
TO equally rich effects obtained by applications
Of motifs in velvet upon such fiimsy materials
as wolfe de Ninon and also upon fine cloth.
Velvet. in fact will be favorite trimming for
winter gowns-as whole dresses its day is
Temporarily done.
Velvet is, however, to be put TO another use
this season-a use which seems greatly beneath
the dignity OF the stately material One Of the
leading Paris eouturiers has model which Is
built entirely of a fine, veIours chiffon covered
with voile de Ninon This is one OF the
gowns that show motifs of velvet application.
and in &c ryav fc he rIcber fabric HllOWed
10 be seen. The effect produced by this yelling
Of the velvet is singularly soft and good
Another form of decoration which Will be
largely used on cay gowns will be that close.
fine bTaiding called by Paris dressmakers SOU
tache. This soutache upon silk ground forms
long Louis XIV coats. cut away in front and
FALLING IN full long basques behind. For q we'd
ding guest beautiful gown is Of hlmy white
IA lace and embroidery. covered with one such
long coat in lemon silk. entirely covered with
cream soutache The same braiding in black ap-
pears on cloth Of color. For evening wear there
VIII be gttering embroideries at the foot Of the
Skirt and the decolletage of the bodice. Our
oio friend the buge has reappeared. and in its
long. clear briIlance will be in great request.
WIN the bugle shall have diamond trim
ming, the most costly and most effective OF all.
Ahe stones used are good size. clear set, and
sewn separately in lines on the tulle and mousse
me de sole. with beautiful and lustrous results.
in style and coloring the new materials for
autunn wear are far more sober than those OF
Die Skinner. Stripes are still to be seen but In
suah ounninEiy blended tones that they are quite
AAe sxospt at very close range The plaids
- assSaSe- nses ~ less popular IN Rax4z