The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-10-13
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
(By Edith Raymond.l

iiiS UT SlOTm collar. Inc SOOuS uSeO
for these coats comprise rough sur
faced cloths, wide-wale cheviots and
similar goods. Another novelty is the
automobile coat which laps widely with
double thickness across the front, fast
ening at, the side under the arm and
along the side seam. The idea Of this
is to give a double protection in front.
Colors of a dark shade have been pref
tily blended in the best goods turned
out, and it is safe to say that the most
particular and fastidious dresser will
ind plenty in the market from which
to choose
In general wraps for the street Jap
anese effects are shown largely. Con-
siderable use has been made of fur
and fur imitation wraps IN more or less
beautiful styles. The Japanese effect
Is to be seen in sealskin, mink and
other fur coats now being shown by
the more exclusive garment houses.
There is an unusual variety of evening
wraps, with the best STYLES shown
tending toward plain effects. Many
new cape forms are shown, and it is
expected that this garment will be
very popular for dressy evening cos
tunes.
In tailored suits two styles stand out
very prominently, the simple mannish
suit for general wear and the more
dressy styles with longer coats and
plated skirts, etc. In high grade tai
lored suits the Japanese sleeve is being
used TO quite an extent. Combinations
of velvet and cloth are also a feature
but brOadcloth tailor-made suits in the
plain close-fitting effects are more than
holding their own for the early fall
trade
One of the features sure to be prom
inent is the prevalence of barbaric col
or5, the Montenegrin, brought out in
the Merry Widow" These appear in
cretonne, which frankly trims various
kinds of gowns or serves as waistcoats
for tailormades, in the heavy wool or
silk work lavished on filet net back
grounds and in embroidery worked di-
rectly on gown materials. These bar
barrie tones, with unnamed reds and
blues and yellows borrowed from the
Flowery and Celestial kingdoms, will
have a strdAg place from now until
spring rolls around and brings relief in
natural shades. There is a distinct
new color called "moselle.' 1t is a dark
champagne with a glisten to it that is
beyond description, and indicates the
high-water mark of the dyer's art.
This tone is bound to be a leader a
little later on.
One of the most stunning, and at the
zane time artistic. gowns seen In a
display Of French costumes is combined
with cretOnne, a copy of an old print
of the eighteenth century The gown
is of very pale pearl gray chiffon wolfe
(wooD. The skirt has a deep hem of
the cretonne, which has a border of
deep blue and yellow red stripes at the
bottom and a flower patterns in the
same tones above. The flower pattern
is cut out in line with the design at
the top so as TO fall irreguiarly onto
the skirt. Set into it and the skirt at
Intervals are large motives of lovely
Cluny lace The bodice is a meiange of
the cretonne cut out as in the skirt
of tucked chiffon, the wolfe and Cluny
a daintier gown could hardly be imag-
ined.
The cretonne garniture is. of course,
in line with the rage for the t0ile de
jouy which struck Paris hard last sum-
mer. Some of the new coats are COW
cred from neck TO hem with soutache
and sOutache appears on transparent
and opaque materials regardless of
kind.
Hats are the talk of the hour. The
latest sensation is the entry of the lit
tie bonnet. which hobs up. in search for
favor periodically. Models are here
bearing. high-sounding French names
on their Innings. which are little big
ger than a mans hand. Whether they
will be heard of again remains to be
seen Meanwhile the big hat with
scoop brim is the leader among the
new and fetching creations. There
seems to be no limit to size In the ultra
fashionable ones. and everything is
done by the mflliner to exaggerate the
huge foundation shapes. Soft Tam
crowns are made of velvet or silk and,
to carry out the high crown fancy of
the day, are often of balloon puffiness.
Most of the wide brims are bound
with velvet or silk. If the hat be of
velvet ii is bound with the same velvet
as the hat or different shade. A great
many liberties are taken with tradi-
tional shapes, such as the shepherdess,
Gainsborough and cavalier, in the new
millinery. Crowns are high in most
cases, but not greatly in evidence, as
a rule. because of the bristling, huge
trimmings bestowed upon them. Trim
mings go on in masses, be they rib
bons, silks, feathers or flowers. Feath-
ers and flowers carry the day for spec
tacular effects, although some of the
bows are enough to take ones breath
away because of their magnitude. A
whole N1Oth or taUeta ana q Iull YARD
and a half in length made up a bow
for the back of a hat seen recently.
The loops were each the width of the
silk and long in proportion, and the
ends, fringed out, hung down the back.
A wide ruching fringed at the edges
Is one of the favorite trimmings. There
is a fancy for changeable taffetas in
these ruchings, with the fringed edges |
the tone carried out in the |
For example, a brown hat
is trimmed with a changeable brown |
and blue ruche that has the blue fringe |
IN evidence and Ginning in with the |
Blue feathers and blue velvet ribbon |
that garnish the crown. Where the |
crown of the hat Is not tall the effect |
is given by the arrangement of the
at its top. Great quantities |
of velvet flowers and foliage are being |
used The flowers are surprisingly |
lovely in many cases-rich, big gera- |
MUM blossoms of natural color; large |
clematis blossoms in white and the |
puppies: roses big as dinner plates: |
pansies of a size that a florist would |
envy; the poinsettia, and the still popu-
lar morning glory. Some of the petals |
are so long that they have a certain /
Brace In their droop that the natural /
Fiower never possessed.
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