The San Francisco call., 1907-01-06

your nuts from of1fng. When youf
paste is beaten fine roll It with roElef
and lay on a wafer bottom Thea
raise up the sides q little on each edge
as ye would for another thdnne cake
ana so bake It. Then Ice 10 with suga4
and rosewater and 50 set It back tH
the oven. When your icing Is rises
high and dry, take It therefor out ot
the pan and decorate IL with birds,
flowers and other pretty concefts and
80 gid It."
As you read the recipe dfd Il stRTks
any familiar spot IN your own nnemory
OF things that we bake for confectiona
nowadays? Almond paste, bar sugar
and rosewater? Methinks in the marchs
plane OF the Grand Monarch I recog.
nize the progenitor Of the succu1ent and
delicious macaroon-
Another sweet which has survived
the march Of time. and even yet Il
''cachoux," that dainty little pastills
that can so cover q multitude OF Hba.
tions as to make only the effect on the
fuddled brain perceptible. Small won.
der Is IL that the damsels OF old found
the little dainty so indispensable when
they made a hearty daily breakfast OF
spratS and ale! These cachoux were
made and preserved for years, and leg.
acies often mentioned them as be.
Queathed treasures. They appear in
very interesting connections, too. Tha
kissing comflts spoken OF so often IN
the Shakespearean comedies are the 1T
tie cachoux OF Queen Bess' time. and
under that alluring name they appear
in the booke.
ITO make kissing comfits," the books
directs, mix with sugar q grain Of
civet. two grains OF musk. two grains
OF ambergris and q thimble full Of or.
ris powder-moisten withal in roses
water and thick II st1n with gum. Bake
well. therefore. and lay 1t away IN
boxes"
Fruit waters, sisters to The kissina
comfits, were less elaborate and dim.
cult to make, being pure fruit juices
mingled with sugar and acidulated with
lemon juices in which gillihowers had
been stepped to produce a fetching red
color.
One cannot suppress a smile OF
amusement as he goes deeper and
deeper into the recipes. So many old
familiar friends arrayed in the robes OF
long ago arise and confront him. Here
concoction OF milk and eggs, arrayed
In an Elizabethan ruff, cannot totally
hide the fact that It is the omelette OF
today, nor can highly priced pudding
OF artstocratic mien totally conceal the
fact that 1t Is nothing more than a
blanc mango" It was with a sort OF
shocked thrill that recognized this d.
rection and comment: 'Pye Is tooth
some and goode when puff paste Is
well made and filed with pippins or
gooseberries and dashe OF sugar. The
goodness OF the pye dependeth much
upon the thinness OF the paste" Who
would not recognize under this line the
buxom countenance Of the old New
England pie? They had as firm a place
in the hearts Of our ancestors as they
have today in the regard Of any true
Yankee, for when Archbishop Neville
was installed in Office and given ban
quet spread upon the table appeared, so
the records state:
"Colde pyes baked. d................4 1000
Colde custards baked. 1000
Hot pyes baked, 1000. besides spices
sugared and delicacies and waters a
plentie.
And so the recipes run on and on.
and one reads and reads until the
present Is not and the past becomes
the only reality. After an hour OF
careful study one almost forgets the
conveniences of today's kitchen. and. In
ina glnation, wields a busy pestls in
place OF shaking "Anchorag ge's Reliable
Almond Paste out OF a Dramatically
sealed one-pound tin and mixing Il
with triple x sugar. The human mind
Is an adaptable thing