New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1907-04-07
Wardrobe otSf6e Fashionable Woman
Expressions of the Dressmakers Art are
uuired-NfetEod Keeping Gowns Perfect Condition

Erhe wardrobe OF the modern woman OF fashion
has grown TO such enormous proportions that
the mere choice OF the garments would be q
herculean task II the wearer had TO attend
20 each detail personally. But some manage the
tsua-annuai renewal with almost no exertion.
They depend TO a great extent upon their Paris
dressmakers. Only one visit 10 these establish
snents IS necessary. The measurements or the
customer and a record OF her coloring and other
personal features IS kept, and when she wishes
70 replenish her wardrobe she simply sends an
order for a certain number Of gowns for certain
purposes. She selects the materials from sam
ples sent 10 her each spring and autumn, but
the trimming and every other detail is left 10 the
saSfe OF the dressmaker and when the gowns
arrive they require alteration. so perfectly
do the great French coutourieres understand
the art OF building" frocks for their distant
patrons.
Other women. and these not few. prefer TO
take two flying trips TO Paris 10 equip them
selves for the summer and winter campaigns.
on their return they win frequently whisper
comfortably OF some jewel Of q dressmaker they
have been sent TO through the courtesy of resi-
dent friends in Paris who say that the larger
firms sell to Americans froczs that the French
woman would never dream of choosing. Other
women make their choice from models sent TO
dressmakers OF the arrival Of the same.
The artistic woman who gives personal atten-
lion 70 the designing and colOring OF her frock is
likely 10 be much more daintily dressed than the
woman who trusts entirely her tailor or dress
maker The Misses Delafield, Mrs Edwin Marie
Post. Mrs John Jacob Aston and Mrs. Charles
Astor Bristed are among those whose sense OF
the beautiful IS embodied in their COWS. and as
a consequence they invariably appear IN eX-
ouisi;e toilets.
INDIVIDUALITY IN GOWNS.
There are many young women TO whom the
idea OF individuality appeals. and who IN con-
sequence affect a color and adhere 70 Il br2vely
for q season or more For instance. Mrs. J.
Norman de r whitehouse has shown her pref
ence for gray, and through all the changes Of
costume has adopted it IN every shade. wearing
Vi with her street suits the most fascinating furs
20 match Mrs Z. Reeves Merritt has blue for
her favorite color, and the same shade was
much worn formerly by the beautiful Mrs
Rhinelaader. Mrs. Garrison, who was one OF
the Coudert sisters, wears white whenever pos
sible one of her smartest costumes Of the VIM
ter being an ivory broadcloth. A touch Of ceTise
has marked many. Of the rousseau gowns Of
young Mrs. Albert Gallatin. one Of her walking
costumes being entirely Of this shade, was
also a frock for bridge. or afternoon, entertain
anents In another black cloth gown. pipings
Of oerise were used.
Hand in hand with the color fad goes the
preference for a particular perfume Of some very
delicate nature. This is usually chosen in Paris.
and the dressnalCer supplies the sachets with
which each really French frock is hall marked.
The amount used is only sufficient 10 pEevent
any close or Tuusty smell that might arise from
the dress being laid away packed. and is
scarcely noticeable The object is TO have
Whi1 OF sweetness IN each gown, and 20 have
that faintes1 suggestion OF perfume UNMARRIED
Even the waist hangers are sent over with Dit
OF the sachet powder in the wadded corners.
The wardrobe Of the very rich woman must Of
necessity be extensive, she wears each gown
only d few times, and then gives IL 10 some init
mate friend or relation less prosperous There
have 10 be an her collection at time ten
evening gowns, several dresses Of chiffon cloth,
silk or lace for musicals, theatre wear or bridge
parties. elaborate cloth costumes for receptions
and visiting; pretty, light frocks for her own
DAYS at home; suits for walking, in light
checked or striped material, another IN rain
cloth, and still another in dark tweed, and many
lace and lingerie blouses- II she is inclined TO
athletics there must be the proper habiliments
for riding, driving. golf, tennis ana yachting
At least two habits OF cloth required, with
four or five OF Russian crash for summer and
OF waterproof cloth for misty weather. With
these are the accompanying long paddock coats
short covert coats, boots and puttees Driving
again requires smart, trim suits with rain coats
or loose, mannish coats; golf and tennis de-
pique or linen for warm days, with an array OF
tailored linen shirtwaists. For yachting there
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