Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-29
CLOTH FORENOON COSTUMES
LITTLE BODICE COATS NOT
WORN MUCH.
Young Contingent Wears Fancy
Goods-Smart Mourning Gowns.
Hints to Dressy Women.

Hints to Dressy Women.
From Vogue.
A strict adherence to the distinctive
forenoon cloth costume is having its eff
feet. All unfit gaudiness of dress during
the morning hours has almost vanished
from the fashionable shopping quarters.
while the tailor-made output is giving an
air of sobriety linked with elegance that
is most gratifying. Never has the dis
tinction between forenoon and after
noon style of dress proclaimed by the
leading gown makers and tailors and sup
ported by the best miliners. been taken
up withSsuch marked approval as II mas
this season. 1t Is to be hoped the custom
will spread rapidly, and we shall be
spared the sight of white plumes and
ermine. worn shopping before the lunch
con hour. AS the winter opens one sees
fewer of the little bodice coats worn
They are replaced by half-lons ones and
some fur-trimmed coats as well rs the
all-fur jackets or basque-coats. In few
instances are seen the skirt and coat suit
of breitschwantZ. An extremely smart
fur-trimmed costume was worn by
young matron, who was early selecting
her children Christmas toys. Her CO.'S
tune was a dark parsley green cloth. its
skirt cut walking length, with coat to
match. was fitted with long double
breasted vest of gray suede. The coat in
front closed across the bust with two
pairs of green velvet. gilt-rimmed buttons,
set high on the bust, leaving the suede
vest below much in evidence, with Its
smaller velvet button fastening to corre-
spond AS the coat neck opening in front
was in V shape there was also remov-
able suede neckpiece to match. very
good idea for mlder days would be ito fill
the opening of the neck with lingerie
chemsette. A broad overturned collar OF
sable. cut so as to form a straight cross
line at the bust. with a muff to match,
gave the distinction that such fur does
to every garment. The very long close
fitting cloth sleeves to the coat were be-
coming. The shopper wore an elephant
gray felt hat, it's under brirp lined with
green velvet. 1t was trimmed with two
shades of gray cog feathers, long and
supple, while gray gloves of the same
shade. completed the good taste of the
ensemble.
The v Effect in Coat Models.
Among the young set, especially when
they lack the height of the Gibson type of
girl. there are many fancy styles of cloth
coats worn, which their youth and pref
tiness alone enable them to look we'll in.
Several of these are cut down in the back
into short or long What is-seemingly
so, for in all cases. applied overlapping
creates that effect. One very jaunty and
pretty girl wore an exquisite tapestry blue
cloth costume. Her short skirt fell in I'M
trimmed plaits. The coat was duplex
affair, and the under one of its short
skirts, was a shaped piece, the upper one
more of narrow basque. slashed. The
backs of the coat overlapped at the mid
die. showing the line, and were filled
in with finely tucked chiffon velvet. There
was a long shoulder cut to the tight-fit-
ting long sleeves. In front the duplex
skirt lines were longer. particularly the
under one. while the upper fronts were
held in with little fullness by narrow
belt strap of chinchilla. a chinchilla stole
and mum corresponded. The chinchilla
toque was trimmed with a cluster of small
pink roses. which made for utmost charm.
as posed upon the brightest of chestnut
hair. Trimming the bottom of the lower
cloth skirt was an extremely narrow chin
chilla border for finish.
Mourning Costume for Young Girl.
A youthful ming costume of black
cloth. worn by her companion. was a de-
lightfully girEsh creation. The skirt laid
in broad box plaits with smaller ones at
the sides and spaces between, was braid
ed cross ways IN waved lines upon the
spaces in clusters of fine rows. The
coat was short affair. its chic depend
ing upon the graceful way in which two
broadcloth scarfsi draped the back and
front. ending in the back in two long
sash ends also braided half their length.
The front ends crossed, allowing an open
V space. which WIS completely braided,
while) the broader ends were slashed and
-rot6Ssd. so that long black cord tasseI
hungIr0 each. a black cloth bag-muff
had agSrs3ded -rbece. slashed and hung
with SSfseis. mott so long, however, as
those upSn the coat.
Russian toque of black felt was worn.
heavily -Aaided with black silk cord.
Z hrFff n Ihlark n inf ~n1 rryitb
,violse~Ind a bunch of violets for the bot
tom support. Both the violets and the
.aigrette were of moderate size, that is
compared with the exaggerated way in
which one>xees aigrettes and violet bou-
qbsts used nowadays in millinery. Debu-
tante dancing gowns are this year the
most fairysome creations imaginable,
and Nhappily are preserved in the har-
1nohiss OF YOUTH The skirts. whether the
tops Are of supple silk or gauze-like fab
RIGS, are trimmed with frills and ruffies
in several rows around the bottom and
with quantities of lace. Trimming motifs
are of ribbons and one is in double-cross
pieces forming a block, the ribbon an
an embroidery of gold or silver paillettes
or jewels. Small flowers in vines and
chains head the founces in many cases.
or trim the head of the topmost flounce.
Small bouquets on the left of corsage, or
as shoulder. or sleeve knots, are of the
flowers that are the mode Ribbon or
silk belts adopt the color of the flower
chosen. The bodices are full. and also
draped in various styles, while the decol-
letage is cut In moderation with much soft
quilings of lace or tule for finish. A
flet of ribbon run through the hair, a
single rose. but one not too large, or a
cluster of roses, of the. same flowers
chosen for garniture. is the best style of
hair ornament for dancing dress in vogue.
w hen silks and sheer materials are de-
cided upon for the fiouncings, they should
be plated. They are not only smarter in
appearance but they keep their form and
place. and stand dancing wear excellently
we'll Length of sleeves depend on the
arms to be barred. Becomingness must
be studied on that score.