The daily sentinel., 1907-08-01


being used Woolens are now emil
broidered in a self color or have
laces dyed to match the color of the
gown. A pretty costume that illus
trated this mode was constructed
from silk voile of a delicate laven-l
der shade. The gown consisted of two
parts. the skirt and the waist. The
japanese effect was sought for in this
style and gave a most picturesque airI
to the whole. The waist was cut with
a deep V outline at the front and
back, the arrangement of the tucks
over the shoulders disposing the waist
suitably. The salient features which
bring out the Japanese suggestions
are the sleeves, which are cut with
the waist and form n fun kimouo cap
which falls over the lower and under
sleeve. Inside the two VS. and this
sleeve cap is an edge of dyed embroid
cry which exactly matches the goods,
which in the original garment was
white embroidered voile which the
dyer made to look as if made for the
material itself. The guimpe of
creamy Blugew lace was made with
out superhuous fulness at the front
or back, that at the waist line beins
collected in gathers. The neck was
finished with a standing collar. The
skirt was developed from a very
fetching design for a summer skirt
and shaped so the lower edge is
straight all round and therefore quite
suitable for flouncing or bordered
goods. The pleats around the skirt
were stitched to yoke depth and the
upper edge finished with narrow
belt About half way to the knees is
put on a slightly fiounced edging of
the dyed embroidery, which gives
very striking finish. This idea would
work out particularly well with white
lawn, linen, batiste, in connection
with white flouncing. If one wished
to use colored linens or mulls. it is
easy to get the white flouncing dyed
to match and it is said that these
dyed goods wash quite as well as
those of the manufacturers.
Lace is nearly always part Of
the jumper suit. 1t is preferably made
of allover lace, when used for the
blouse, as is usually the case. A good
design is to have no fulness at the
top to insure the good set of the out
er or jumper waist, and those gathers
at the waistline are regulated by a
drawstring. The neck may be finished
with a standing collar or may be cut
out in Dutch, round or square out
line. if preferred. The sleeve may be
fun length. but more often is of the
elbow variety. Guimpes and slips in
general are in great demand, being
constantly worn beneath the jumper
blousas which are worn so extensive
". These guimpes are made entire
ly of one material, sometimes of two,
as when linen or lawn and lace are
used. the later for yoke and collar
and cuffs, or as a simple trimming to
the blouse. The simpler fabric is
used for parts not seen.
There is no portion of the dress
where lace or embroidery is more eff
fectively used than in the bolero. This
bolero, while not at all new, is yet
such a graceful addition to any waist
that many women have several of
these dainty little garments. One
was made of plain net with allover
Irish crochet lace for the yoke, col
lars and cuffs, and the bolero was OF
white satin hand embroidered all
over. The waist had deep oval
shaped yoke and finished with n
standing collar. The sleeve was a
puff model. finished with band cuff
in elbow length. The bolero follows
the lines of the blouse yoke toward
deep V and outlined with deep
scalop of heavy embroidery, as are
the cap sleeves, which are cut in one
with the little jacket. The belt was
of embroidered satin. The skirt was
a white voile, having a white lace and
lawn underskirt.
A most effective waist was made
from lace having a stripe running
through it. 1t was made from the
model showing the Gibson plat at
the shoulders. The blouse closes at
the front, and straps are applied at
the front and back. The salient fea-
ture was the cutting of the material
on the bias, the fronts running one
way and the straps In the opposite
direction. giving a herring-bone ell
| feet, while the sleeves had the STRIPES
running downward in straight lines.
! All sorts of such combinations are
used today, with the thought OF the
effect under the overblouse or jump
er or bolero.
Overblouses of alloyer lace are
used with lightweight woolens, cot
! ton or inexpensive silks, ana more
elaborate ones of the handmades
with the dressier materials. These
as a rule are made deep enough IN
the neck and back to be slipped over
I the uEdus llt Ne el''h.a
with the body part, which fails in
deep points back and 'front.' but not
with too much fulness. In a not too
extensive waist of lace they are very
handy to aid out a silk underwaist
that has seen better days.
Hand embroidery is layished with
out stint upon sheer materials OF all
kinds. 1t would seem as II the last
word of extravaganza had been said
when these blouses. gowns and frocks
of an sorts are finished, but still the
elaboration goes on, yet all Is kept
within the bounds of good tatste.
Harmony is found in the most extrav-
agant combinations of laces and EN-
broideries, whether hand made or oil
| the finest machine work. some oil
the Imported embroidered batistes
are so faultlessly made that 1t is al
most impossible to tell the difference
between them and the hand made
ones. -. -.
The separate berthas OF lace or
embroidery or combination OF both
have become great favorites. A pret-
tv full null fiounce slipped on over
a plain shirt waist will transform the
latter into a dressy and elaborate
waist. The same idea may be carried