The morning journal-courier., 1907-12-18

olii6I poiul-IucNilS III llle HlecNtSf just as we had it some years agm with the very long sleeves, bringing out the whiteness of the haul and softening its lines.
 The very wide armhole, despite these other innovations, is s;u prime favorite. It is such an effective s+ye. susceptible to so many notifications, and is so widely different from any slyeeye fashion previous to their nLro- duction a few seasons ago, that it Is not to be wondered at if we are very loath to give if up. The wide arm hole is being extended now very gen. erally to the separate bodice. A sim gle illustration will serve to show how attractively it is developed for this purpose
 Pale blue chiffon cloth was the ma terial used in the model, and there was an underbodice or gulmpe of fiiet net, with the high stock cut in one with it and the sleeves straight and ungathered the bottom being trim med with velvet ribon two inches wide, sewed in with the back seam, and the two ends crossing through an oval-shaped buckle of dull gold on the front side. The bodice proper was cut out in the neck in a deep point, the right side tapping well over the other and fastened with two large, orna- mental buttons. The fullness was all brought together at point on either side of the front. that in the back drawn down in like fashion, and crush girdle of velvet closing at one side with an oval buckle larger than the other gave it the correct finishing touch. The shoulder seams where they met the seam of the underbodice were given two-inch band, narrowing slightly through the center, which was embroidered in dull gold and old blues. The embroidery also extended around the neck and down the front, the edge of the bodice being finished with an inner fold of the velvet.
 Even mourning garb is not exempt from the picturesque effect. Iaat characterizes the present trend of styles, and there is a marked aversion to the exaggerated use of crape. The crape, however, of to-day is quite a different material from that stiff, uu- graceful uncompromlsing stuff Crig- finally known, and which was so sug- | gestiye of the best back parlor, with its closed blinds opened only on such state occasions as funerals and wed- dings. The new crapes are beautiful, with a soft, silky ustre, unobtruslve 90 as to be quite fitting. and yet without that deadly sombreness that always gave one uncanny shiyers to see 1t suddenly. Most of it. too, Is now sub | jected to process which renlecs 1t shower proof, and, being plable, 1t re- tains it's freshness quite as well as any other fabric
 In the way of mourning cloths, r&r- amattas vicuna cloth, serge or any Of the dull fabrics are sultaolc fer this purpose.
 1 A remarkably smart costume, 6e- signed for deep mourning, is fashi ln> I cd of lustreless hroadcloth, the skirt cut circular and trimmed with S sew en-inch band of crape, shaped D tl,at ! th NAA NIo lb eb JbAIL III llOllt 1u utfN
 both, the lower edge of the oani be- Ing about nine inches from the edEe of the skirt This band Is outll led
 with q heavy cord of dull silk wist- led into simple conventional shapes at ! intervals. The coat, d fitted euslvsy, with the sleeves cut in one with the body, is bordered all around with a band of the crape three inches wide, with the inner edge outlined in cash- ion similar to the band on the shlit | The sleeves are quite wide at the bot < tom, reaching only to the elbows, and are turned back and faced with crape
 The mourning apparel itowever rich it's material, must retain m stp- pearance of marked severity, and the costumes tailored or semi-tail il1rsd are 1 by far the smartest A dress of hlll l cashmere made for a young gl'a2eful skirt cut with five gores. the rile one ! being very wide and sloping abruptly down the front There was paiel of crape widening gradually from a width of two inches at the top to i've at the bottom, bordered on either side i with fold of the crape and decJrdt- ed with crape-covered buttons, placed in groups of three down the center. X Greek border of crape trimmed he lower part of the skirt most effect lively.
 The bodice topping this skirt was a simple surplice of the clotn trimmed with two narrow folds of the crape,
 folding over guimpe of crape With long. close-titting sleeves also crap2.
 For house gowns there is a mourning" taffeta that Is attractive where tl.th is not desired, and for second mourn ing there is two-tone black both or ! them dull, that is shown in ding nll checks and stripes, and in moslel tf- fleets. These are extremely smart, fashioned with cloth trimmings, and they are equally desirable u,ai for
 decorative purposes, with cloth as the
 foundation material A gown for a
 young girl might be constructe witlt
 8. skirt having four wide go-as alter
 hating with narrow inset pan $ tf ,he
 checked silk the panels varynG in
 depth with the longest one ra front,
 each being finished at the lover edge
 with a half-inch band of cl)th nieeW
 stitched and cloth-covered buttons at a either side in groups--New York Eve
 ming Post.