Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-29

taken as a useful, II rough rule that
skirt that does more than show the tip of
the toes or at most the foot up to the be-
ginning of the instep is a failure from the
beauty viewpoint OF course. l am not
speaking of gowns for wet weather or of
walking, costumes for the country. 1 am
speaking of summer dresses to be worn IN
the street. in the Bots, and later at fash
ionable watering places. If the ordinary
summer skirt be sufficiently short to be
worn without fear of helping to clean the
roads 1t is certainly too short to be becom-
ing correct.
Some of the latest models in wolfe de sole
show perfectly shaped skirts trimmed with
a number of tucks ON the hem. 1t is hardly
necessary to remind you that these tucks
are always done by hand and arranged in
graduated widths At the extreme hem
they measure about five inches, and then
they are reduced each one-half of an inch
as they run up toward the knees.s For
linen dresses a favorite style of adornment
Is combination of deep tucks and hand
embToidery-three tucks, band Of en-
broidery, and so on. For afternoon gowns
wolfe de sole shares popularity with mar
quisette. which Is really nothing more than
glorified grenadine and Indian gauze, a
fabric that comes in pastel shades and
gives fascinating effects when inset with
old yellow lace and further beautified with
ribbon work embroideries. And, apropos of
trimmings, they are being so exaggerated
that 1t is time we called halt, for we are
being borne down by the weight of them
They are thrust upon US pell-mell. and the
attentions of the couturieres seem entirely
monopolized by trimmings. and soon there
will be no body to our frocks at all. They
Will be all trimming. certain gown worn
on the stage here recently very clearly IL
Illustrates this point. printed cretonne-
fabric, by the way, introduced to the
dressmaking world by smart French So
ciety woman and done to death since by
the multitude-is covered with a tunic of
coarse lace embroidered with flowers in
white cotton. The edge Of the tunic is out
lined with Natter blue velvet. and the
sleeves are OF lace.
One of the most effective dresses 1 have
seen this season was of chalk-wh ite canvas
cloth with deep Vandykes of maltese lace
at the bottom of the skirt. Between these
yandykes were raised embroideries in white
linen thread, and the bolero cape was of a
coarse make of the maltese There was a
blouse Of tucked muslin and valenciennes,
with a high stock of taffeta in a peculiar,
vivid shade of hg green. The wearer of
this gown was very dark, and she carried
OF most beautifully a large cloche hat of
deep yellow Tuscan straw, with full
crown of ecru net embroidered in silver and
great punches of black cherries falling over
the brim at one side. Under the brim, rest
Ing on the dark hair. were several blush
roses. Oh. yes. and. before / forget 1t, al
most all of the best-dressed women are
wearing pale gray suede gloves. Indeed. it
seems more like a uniform, and q very
pretty one at that. Another accessory SEN
sation occurs in beltdom in the kid ceinture
embroidered in wool. Such belt is stun
At Columbin's the other night there was
I the usual fashionable crowd. 1t was a warm
evening, and the women had evidently
taken advantage Of the opportunity to don
their most summary costumes. A dainty
frock worn by a smart girl was of white
embroidered linen with couple of lace
flounces hanging from the knee line and
loosely fitted bolero and short sleeves in
the same lace. Sitting at one of the tables
was q prominent actress adjoining a con-
lection in dull blue printed foulard spotted
with wafer designs in light blue, these In
turn being sprinkled with q powdering of
! white circles. The skirt was cut in three
pointed tiers, and q very unique addition
was the embroidered pattern on the bolerO
of gray taffeta worked in shades of gray
| silk. The undersleeves were of white
mousseline de sole. The hat crowning
this creation was of gray chip covered with
magnificent gray ostrich plumes.
The Parisienne says that her petticoat
| this summer shall be white-in lace or en-
broidery as you will-but Dame Fashion
has a decided fancy for broderie anglaise.
An American Queen Of Fashion.
| The Princess de Bearn, who was Miss
| Beatrice Winans Of Baltimore, has risen
to the dignity Of being one Of those who set
the fashion here at the gay capital. The Vie
Heureuse quotes her The most stylish
| and best dressed American woman in
Paris" Last Sunday she was seen at the