The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-12-22
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
BY EDITH RAYMOND.

I
! very popular for spring and summer
wear. Roughly woven effects are also
considered as decidedly good property.
| Tafetas, in both plain and fancy eff
fects, are being taken freely for both
| immediate and future requirements.
Manufacturers of petticoats have been,
and are still, heavy buyers of silks for
/ the purpose of turning out the largest
! orders for the finished garments that
| they have experienced in many years.
| The silk petticoat has come back into
! favor again with a rush, and bids fair
/ to outdiStance all former records. Silk
/ Innings are also in good demand, and all
! Of this is going a long way toward
keeping the mills busy. Satin-finished
| silks on the massaline order are in
/ strong request. Plain materials are
/ leading for the fall season, although
! quite a fair amount of business has
! been put through on many fancy goods
! for evening wear. For next spring
fancies are expected to play a more
important part than was the case this
| last spring and summer. POngees in
fancy weaves are being brought out BY
the mills, and some remarkably at
tractiVe ideas are to be seen in the
/ spring collections now on view in this
market.
The choicest fur garments for the
| coming winter season are made of
mink, chinchilla, seal and Russian sa-
BILE. The furs next in order of expense
of popularity are the colored foxes,
lynx. caracul. Persian lamb and stone
and baum marten. Russian sable, al
though the most desirable pelt of all,
for some reason is more reasonable in
price than it has been for some time.
Seal is away up, owing tofits scarcity.
and needs a princely purse for the vol
luminous shapes now in vogue. The
scarcity of~Seal has led to the intro
duction of the lOutre or French seal,
which is simple English muskrat,
pluclIed and dyed to initiate seal SO
nicely in some cases that it takes d
connoisseur to tell the difference. This
French seal has been in the market
now for three seasons, and this year it
is introduced into the very handsome
mantles, capes, coats and little jackets
by even the conservative furrierS. A
handsome empire coat of French seal,
seen yesterday, was of three-quarter
length. with ermine collar and cuffs.
and finished with jewelled buttons.
| The fronts could be thrown open to
show the wide waistcoat of ivory white
satin embroidered in a delicate empire
pattern. Such coat costs $500 or S400,
while one like it in real sealskin would
amount to 81, 100 at the least. Caracul
is. possibly, the most used fur this
season. 1t comes in all sorts of gar
menJs, from jaunty little Jackets that
barely reach the waist line, to long,
vOluminOus mantles for carriage and
automobile wear. The chasuble coat is
the most novel shape at the furrier's,
and lends itself especially well TO the
fiat caracuL A caracul chasuble coat
at one of the fur stores has collar of
black cloth braided with gold and
green soutache, and the body of the
coat is generously trimmed with the
braided cloth, a wide. fiat braid vel
vet and passementerie ornaments
Even the priceless seal is embroidered
and braided, and caracul and French
seal are at times fairly covered with
such Ornamentations.
There seems to be no limitation to
the size and muffs. They are bigger
than ever A tendency to revive the
round shape is in the air. Some of the
ultra fashionable muffs are of this
kind, but they are very soft. The fiat
muff, made to appear like a folded
skin. with dangling heads, tails and
paws, is the leader, however. A sump-
tuOus silver fox set seen recently, that
mounted in price to four figures and
beyond, employed two whole skins for
the muff and four for the stole. The
muff was tWenty-eight inches wide and
eighteen inches deep and was finished
with two of the big white tipped tails.
The stole was arranged to show the
natural animal shape as much as pos
sible, two heads finishing it at the
back with the tails and paws and the
rest down the front. Many such stoleS
are made to produce a little coat eff
feet at the back in the cunning drap-
ing OF the skins. The scarf collar is
the newest neck finish for coats, being
a fat rundown affair when open or a
standup one with fOur-in-hand front
when closed. Most of the sleeves are
made in three-quarter length, with a
cuff that can be turned down to the
hand when the long sleeve is wanted
Pony skin is making up jaunty little
jackets of many shapes, among them
the pony shape which remains a IA
Vorite This fur is. in almost all cases,
except for automobile garments,
trimmed lavshly with braid or en-
broidery. or both The kimonO sleeve
and mandarin armhole are in good and
regular standing with all furriers.
Ermine has gone back to its legiti-
mate office as an evening fur. White
fox is somewhat more in demand than
the regal ermine. Natural beaver is
revived for automobile coats and also
for neckpieces. The gray and white
krimmer is also in favor again for
grown-ups as we'll as children. In
coats TO be matched up with gray or
white skirts it is especially smart. But
the majority of women prefer the more
delicate and beautiful chinchilla. Mink
is in great esteem, but is much higher
in price than usual.
Serges are going into tailor-mades.
With serge there is always apt to ar
rive the vogue for velvet trimmings, or
at least for velvet in collar and cuffs,
and this is no exception this fall. The
velvet collar is in evidence on many of
the new plain tailor mades. Velvet
cuffs are less frequently used, but they
are in order if wanted. A pretty touch
with such costumes is the peacock col
Ors which sometimes appear in iri-
descent feathers of the bird itself on
the bat. A little crushed blue felt hat
that goes with blue serge hair striped
with green and finished with navy blue
velvet and dull blue and green enamel
buttons has bird of this description
at one size.
The Oriental gold or silver wrought
scarfs on black or white net are very
popular for evening wear. but their
danger of catching on the bodice or
coat OF hair has led to the lining of
them with chiffon. These scarfs at
their best are hand-riveted with ster-
ling silver or with gold on hand-loom
net. and sell by the pound, the price