The new enterprise. (Madison, Fla.) 1901-1908, 1907-01-24
HOW PERFUME3 ARE MADE.
Countries That Produce the Most
Scents by Chemica, Process.

Scents by Chcmica, Process.
Scents are not what they seem, was
the moral of the address given yester-
day by John c. Umney before tine
members of the Royal Horticultural
society, says the London Tribune.
Many of the perfumes known to The
public were compounded preparations,
explained Mr. Umney. Sometimes a
blending of several odors produced
the odor of one particular flower. The
lily of the valley perfume, for instance,
was not made from the lily of the val.
ley and the same might be said OF the
wall flower, sweet pea and carnatlon
perfumes.
Specially interesting was the list Of
perfumes made artlicially in the
chemical laboratory. They included
musk, vanilla, made from sawdust;
conmarin, or new moNn hay; hello
tropin, which is an excellent repre-
sentation of heliotrope; Aubepin, or
hawthorn; inone, or violet, and the re-
Gently discovered neroli, which repre-
scnts very exactly the scent 'of the
orange flower.
Maceraron of the petals was the
only method of extracting perfume
used by the ancients. explained Mr..
Umney. A vegetable oil was extracted
from the petals, and this, after clari'
fcation, resulted in 4 sweet smelling
pomade, but later, in 100 A. D., the
distilation process was introduced IL
to Europe.
The volatile industry seemed to have
developed from very small beginnings
in the south of France in the sixteenth
century, but the real perfumery in
dustry might be said to have its orig.
in the preparation of Hungarian
water in the sixteenth century, a prep
aration made from rosemary.
The most delicate flowers, the tube
rose and the jasmine, still have their
perfume extracted by placing fats
over their petals. Lavender ana at
tar of roses were distilled. Attempts
to induce the growth of roses on the
Riviera, where so many perfumes
were made. had not met with success,
and Kezanlil was still the home of the
altar of roses industry. The BulgaT-
ian government, Mr.. Umney told his
listeners, were attempting 10 make
certain standards for altar of roses,
so that this very expensive perfume
may not reach the English market
mixed with cheap geranium oil.
The perfume of violets was extract
ed by macerating the flowers In fat ut
n high temperature, the compound be-
ing afterward placed in very powerful
hydraulic presses. In the case OF
oranges lemons and bergamot fruit, 30
much used in the preparation OF the
old-fashioned opoponax and ess bou-
quot perfumes, the volatile oil Is ex-
tracted from the peel, great care De-
ING taken not to damage the peel SO
that It may still be used for saltin5.
an an instance of the highly coHcen-
trated state to which the essential OIL
nay be brought. the lecturer showed
phial of essence of lemon. each drop
OF which. was equivalent to the juice
and peel of four lemons.
The perfumery industry on the
French Riviera is not merely season
one. The perfumery calendar drawn
uo by Mr.. Umney begins with March
and April, when violets and jonquus
are ready to be treated and ends with
the cassis in late October and the
early days Of November In May and
June the rose and orange blossoms are
out and in July especially the orange
leaves, which yield the so-called petit
grain oil. are ready Jasmine. TUBE
rose and lavender all blossom In Au'
gust and September.