Evening star., 1907-11-09

that most women who adopt a style OF
their own do SO because the fashions
that suit the majority are not becoming
to their faces or figures. La Mode does
not pay much attention to the minority.
though lately her rules have become
little more comprehensive and elastic.
! She favors, above all, the 1.-the, supple
woman whose physique lends itself to her
capriCes These same 1.-the, hipless
creatures Dame FasAion loves to clothe
III the close. clinglng Paquin skirt. but II
would be little short of criminal to COM
pei all felnininity to wear these effects.
! That they will not be coerced Is evidenced
In the number OF plated skirts that are
worn. Indeed 1t Is only the ultra-fash-
iouable mondaine who wears the baglike
affairs When something a trifle newer
than the plated jupe Is desired the cir
Cular cut is substituted, and to avoid the
sagging OF the back seam. which has
heretofore been all unSeemly feature OF
this skirt the Couturiers are now over
coming the difficulty by sewing stra .ght
strip OF silk up with the back seam The
skirts are trimmed or not, according TO
the fancy OF the modiste or the wearer,
and about the bottom of skirts made of
sheer materials there is often banding
of heavier fabric to give the dragged
down sVelte clinging lines. But the jupe
that contributes most TO the joy OF living
Is the many -gored design that fts close at
the top and is OF modern proportions at
the hem. The seams are either Tapped
ana SliICEFu OI lHSy are plpcd Win NSiNCI
OF silk. and where an elaborate trim
ming scheme is part of the makeup
panel of narrow braid placed close To-
gether across the seams for three inches
| and finished at each end with a little curl
/ of the soutacEe and a crochet button Is
| used This adornment is very elective
! and easy for the home dressmaker TO
achieve.
The Paquin Turnover Collar.
( The style of coat divides the tailored
! costumes into three gFoups-stiits with
! short s.ini-sack coats or little coats with
/ basuues braidings and semi close
| htting jackets and very picturesque coats
worn with skirts that trail on the ground
| But the smartest of the dressy coats is a
| cutaway affair with high incr0yable col
! lar launched by Paquin. This latest de-
/ velopmCnt Of the famous couturicr's 8
! genius is made of chiffon velvet Or soft
satin laid in folds over q high. perfectly
! filted lining. AT the back and sides it is
I tremendous In height and ends at each
I side of the chin in front. To keep the
/ collar i'll place scarf of soft silk is run
under the collar and tied in a natty bow
| In front. the knot hlling the space left
( vacant by the collar under the chin.
/ Last year we perished in curtailed
| sleeves. but " no ever heard q murmur
! from the thousands of women who could
! not afford granny muffs?' II you had
esuggested to any of these perishing ones
| that ii was ridiculous to wear short
! sleeves In winter you would only have
been met with q blank stare OF pity and
! contempt. And who ever heard of a
woman putting lining into her trans
parent blouse because she was afraid OF
| penuinonia? No. indeed, she would rather
wrestle with this dread disease than put
q horrible thick substance beneath a
lingerie slip Now this season we are
going to suffer in the cause of the open
coats that cut away in front and leave the
chest exposed In a most dangerous fash
lon. But who cares II her throat aches
and nasty little pains are playing a game
OF hide and seek about her lungs when
| she has the consciousness OF being array