davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1907-08-10
Il Paris Fashion Glimpses From Boulevard and Bois


sion OF the previous days and the intense
relief we all felt at parting from each
other and, 1 regret to say, from our
hostess.
In England when royalty goes visiting 1t
has the privilege of inviting its own COM
pany Under these circumstances one can
imagine an ideal week end. The smart set
when it inaugurated the fashion of bring
ing your own man with you was also
striving in the right direction, for really
when you come to think Of 1t nothing is
more difficult rule than to get on with
the man or woman provided for you by
harassed hostess. In bringing your own
friends you have taken great responsi-
bility off her shoulders. while if the party
is a fallure-welI. IN that case, to quote the
poet. You have only yourself to blame
But Vain Repetition.
1t seems rather discouraging to talk about
the latest fashions when Slgnor Mas
So the famous italian archaeologist, has
just announced that there is nothing new
under the sun of fashion. This gentleman
has taken the wind out of our sartorial
sails by having discovered that 4.C0O years
ago the ladies OF Mycenae wore hats that In
all essentials were duplicates of those we
are wearing this summer This same
learned authority also tells US that II was
as early as the sixth century that France
assumed the role of dictator of fashion,
position she has never relinQuished. We
are further informed that ell the arts. even
! Chinese or Japanese influence. The CO.'S
tunes OF the French women even at an
( early date showed evidences. though in
less marked degree. Of the Japanese idea.
1t only goes to show that nothing is per-
manent but change.
Another old style. young in comparison.
though. with the oriental influence, is that
of the crinoline. which in B. Q. days -four
ished DESPITE our notions of long, flowing
feminine draperies and loose, shapeless gar
ments. There is little chance OF this out
landish mode being adopted by us in this
day of overcrowding. How could we cIoths
ourselves in crinoline and at the same time
travel in the Metropolitan or even exist In
small apartment here in the Vile Lumi-
Mere? No. the things impossible
The crinoline idea did cause little furry
of excitement when an elegante appeared
the other day at q PuteauN fete In
founced skirt that more than suggested
the old bouffant effects. I do not think
that a genuine crinoline was worn with
the costume in question. but certainly the
skirt was mounted on especially construct
ed petticoats.
The White Petticoat Tyranny.
Apropos Of petticoats nothing that is noe
Evening star., 1907-08-10

In sleeves. though at this midseason all
lengths Seem to be in vogue If tor any
reason there Is no marked revolution In
them, then a frock will generally look
fairly smart throughout another three or
four months. AS yet there Is no especially
conspicuous change in the sleeves, for they
are much like those worn last year, but on
close inspection there is visible decided
tendency toward longer model than was
fashionable last spring
Now there Is a distinct style of sleeve
appropriate for every dress For the morn
ing, for example full length sleeves are re-
turning to favor. for afternoon three-quar-
ter or full length for a simple froclS elbow
length for reception dress, and then in
the evening the sleeves remain very short.
For Mourning Wear.
One modiste declares that women who
are In mourning are in perpetual indecision
as to what is proper to wear and what is
not. The attraction Of the colored gown In
undeniable. And. after her long wearing
OF black. q woman looks forward eagerly
to putting on something more cheerful, but
there are proprieties to be observed. And
It is here that the fine trick OF the dress
artist can be noted.
For the benefit Of the woman who has
worn black for a year or more there may
be given some fashion rules for the guild
ance Of her wardrobe. One Of these is that
she may wear all the gold jewelry she owns
and all the Jet. She may also wear silver,
gun metal. gold antiques and all other or
naments that are not set with colored
stones
Diamonds and pearls are permissible In
all but the deepest mourning, and for SEQ.
ond mourning there now comes some pretty
tewelry In violet enamei.
Evening star., 1907-08-10

charming. and the touch of the black velvet
on the orim is extremely Frenchy.
The Popular Pump
Pumps, both in white kid and in white
leather. are worn. and the trimming for
the pump consists of a tiny bow of white
kid. There are enamel pumps in the pale
colors which go very well with the pastes,
such as light yellow. the most delicate of
green and the finest and softest of hello
trope.
In each and every case the stockings
must match the shoes. and the match must
be exact. There Is no such thing as shoes
and stockings that do not match They
must correspond to a nicely. fabric, tone
and general style being the same.
The Redingote Again.
From Paris comes word that the very
latest fad OF the ultra-f -fashionables is the
loose-htting. unlined redingote Of mousse
line, elaborately soutached. This f1lmy gar
ment though not cut full and loose, does
not cling closely to the figure. but falls in
soft, vague outline suggesting the lines
of the figure beneath.
The soutache embroidery Is very heavy
and elaborate at the bottom, running up
upon the body of the coat in lighter and
more scattered designs, and the neck and
loose draped sleeves are bordered in heavy
design. Worn over white summer frocks
this redingote. either in black or white.
promises to be one Of the favorite fancies
of the Parisians. who speak the last word
on the seasons fashions, but the garment
is too extreme and too costly to find ac-
ceptance with any other class.
About the Parasol.
Some of the newest parasols are easy to
initiate as well as attractive in themselves.
Evening star., 1907-08-10
SMART FOULARD FROCK.

heading 1T at the two side front cores and
outlining the two side front seams. The
back was quito plain, except for the band
of silk around the bottom. There was a
pony coat-at least 1t was as near pony
model as anything. In 1t were no side
lines with the empire effect. The fronts
were fashioned Of cross wise tucking, sup
plemented with narrow shaped vest of
taffeta decorated with silk frogs, which
also serve fastenings. An odd feature
was introduced in the vest, which was some
two inches shorter than the side fronts, and
Just where this vest ended. or at the waist
line were two large ornaments of crochet
SILK. The sleeves were somewhat more full
than ordinarily seen in the prevailing mod
els and bagged slightly over the narrow
elbow cuff.
For Outdoor Use.
If a woman is a suburbanite and uses
the train daily she can make no better
choice for protection of her frock than to
wear one Of these raJah ulsters. made
loose and full and covering every inch Of
her gown.
The silk-f1nished rubber coats in bright
blue and other colors flood the counters and
seem to be popular. They are not pretty,
they are hot and they promise to be ex-
ceedingly common. However. as SO many
women like them. there is little use for en-
tering protest against them.
They were brought out merely for motor
ing and are now used for shopping by
women who have never been in a motor,
just as elbow sleeves in blouses were
brought out for house wear and the Peter
they were run to ground by women on the
streets and in public places and therefore
were ruled out of fashion at once.
Changes in fashions are noticed first often
Evening star., 1907-08-10

easily soiled and as perishable as possible
is smart nowadays. Consequently only
white lawn petticoats are considered the
thing. English embroidery of the finest
sort and festooned scallops worked by hand
are smarter than lace unless 1t be of a
very expensive kind. Flounces Of exqui-
sitely sheer spotted muslin on these skirts
are fascinating especially when of some
dainty color. yellow being the most ap-
proved OF Dame Fashion at present.
The latest innovation and one of which
no physician or even the most austere dress
nationalist" can disapprove is the whale
homeless corset. This invention is the de-
light of every woman who prides herself on
her slim. graceful figure and which she has
to the very best advantage in up-to-date
clothes. The whaleboneless corset marks
an epoch in the evolution of dress. for un-
like any of Its predecessors 1t combines ele-
gance with hygiene and comfort. My own
experience has been that so-called rational
corsets have been the most irrational Of ALL
for they deform the figure both in reality
ana In appearance. But now we have at
last corset which adheres to the natural
lines OF the body while proving an abso-
lutely sufficient support for the blouses and
the tight-fitting tailored gowns and princess
frocks. 1t will, IL necessary disguise en-
bonpoint or any other fault while acceh-
tuating the good points of figure. me
artifcally acquired small waist Is quite
outside the realms OF estheticism' but the
blouse and the tailor made dress when IS
foundation which a good corset alone can
give. What we have needed was corset
which respected health. nature and art ana
the busy dress reformers must now look
elsewhere for complaint since TINS piesslng
has appeared in the new model.
Some Modish Jewelry.
In an important shop in the Boulevard
des Italiens the whole window is devoted
TO a display of black jewelry. Paris seems
suddenly stricken with a passion for these
somber ornaments, and they are certainly
very effective worn with a black gown OF
thin, gauzy stuff. One does not have to be
even in second mourning to wear the black
with propriety, the only point in
sisted upon being that they appear in COM
pany with a black costume. SO great an
influence has the jewelry in the up-to-date
toilet that modistes are building up whole
creations around a necklace of odd de-
sign or a set of belt and corsage orna-
ments. And these jewels are not always Of
the first water. anything that Is unique be-
ing more in vogue than the merely eXpen-
siye. In connection with the Partisan touch
Of black the last cry 10 q band Of 'noir''
Evening star., 1907-08-10

the work to catch superfiuous moisture and
keep your brush dry.
Finally there are the exquisite shadow
work parasols which girl clever with her
needle can make especially effective II she
uses soft color for the shadow work and
lines the sunshade with thin material to
match.
A Cool Hat.
Green hats and green trimmings are one
Of the late summers introductions among
popular fancles. A smart one was seen
recently with white linen suit. The hat
was of fine green straw trimmed with a
soft drapery OF green silk and two big gray
speckled wings. over which fell a pair Of
softly shaded green wings. The hat was
the shape of big bell.
A Sensible Revival.
For light wraps nothing ia prettier than
the old-fashioned mantlet. which has been
revived not only for older women. but for
Evening star., 1907-08-10

One such is of white linen. embroidered with
rows Of large white storks. The design is
such as one might get from any book illus
tration-an Illustrated edition Of Anderson's 8
fairy tales. for instance-and since 1t is done
in outline and satin stitch 1t is quick and
simple work.
Another hint for the girl who has to
travel a long way to make both ends meet
linen painted with soft blush purple hy-
drangeas.
Any girl with iota Of artistic taste or
talent can make one OF these for herself,
given q plain and inexpensive parasol.
Each petal OF the flower is simply q single
splotch OF paint. and the linen takes the
color beautifully. blending 1t into all sorts
Of soft shades.
Only g. word to the amateur-do not use
ordinary paints but dyes or pyrographic
stains preferably the former. Buy red,
yellow and blue. and you have your palette
ready made at hand. Place blotter under
Evening star., 1907-08-10

see service on the lawn. An air of extreme
smartness is added II above this band of
black there is a second one OF lace or
embroidery, but to be in keeping the black
touch must be repeated on the bodice
Here in Paris we have gone "dafy"
over peach pink tints this summer. and
a lovely peach pink voile designed for
chateau wear has a band of black taffeta
on the skirt and above 1t q band Of heavy
cream lace. The little coat wrap is of
black taffeta embroidered with La France
roses and finished with Dresden buttons On
which are painted half open rosebuds. The
chatelaine of the chateau will wear with
this frock a hat of cream-colored chip
lined with black taffeta. The big crown is
OF black dotted tulle, and g. bunch of La
one side of the crown. The parasol is of
peach pink taffeta, and the gloves are Of
long black suede.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star., 1907-08-10

Sold and applied by
NJ. @. Whelan, HOS T St. NV.
Evening star., 1907-08-10

girls as we'll. These are made Of brussels
net trimmed with lace over china silk,
also Of swiss embroidery trimmed with its
own ruffies and black silk covered with
ruffles Of lace or fish net edged with rib
bon.
Colors are not fashionable in these wraps.
the preference being given to black and
white. They are made Of one piece only,
with long, narrow stoles. and the fullness
is given by the shirred and gathered ruff1e
at the edge Of the cape and at the ends Of
the stoles. They are easy to make at
home and can be worn over any manner Of
thin frock.
The Rajah Coat.
One of the smartest of rajah coat suits
seen this season was Of champagne color
The skirt was cut in five cores. with a very
narrow front panel OF embroidery, and this
was bordered on either side by stitched
band Of taffeta Of the same shade. Around
the bottom was a narrow band OF the tat
feta, with a simple design in embroidery
Evening star., 1907-08-10

THERE are few really old ladies to
he found nowadays. but there
are some charming matrons who
q do not pose as young women and
who are not ashamed OF their
beautiful white hair They are young in
mind and body and very often in figure as
well I have no sympathy with the woman
who has perhaps a jolly family around her
and yet who says with the air of a martyr
that 1t does not matter what she wears, for
her day is over. Probably If this is the way
she feels her day Is sure enough over. but
she ought to consider the bad effect this
has on the young spirits growing up around
her, and In these days when the schoolboy
IS so proud of his well-dressed. young
looking mother, and the girl who is just
coming out looks upon her as her best
friend or a kind OF elder sister, 1t Is only
right that she should take an interest In
her clothes. She may even be grand
Tnother-indeed. some of the smartest and
haudsOmest women here in America are
but il does not follow that she must so
about In funereal black. On the contrary,
with white hair she will look better In
cream, white. pale gray, green or mauve,
at least in the summer months. The long
lines and sweeping draperies Of the season
IN soft satins. taffetas and mousselnes and
the revival OF the lace fichu are happy re-
sources for the matron. To jump from one
extrems to another one OF the illustrations
shows Z new boating dress for young
girl practical frock. in which the girl
does the rowing herself and gives up the
role for the time being of sitting in the
stern and looking pretty while Gibson
esque creature OF the masculine type pad
dies the canoe. The sunbonnet effect car
rieo out in the white tuile hat is very
Evening star., 1907-08-10
Special Correspondence of The Star.

Special Correspondence of The Star.
PARIS. July 27. 1907.
~ARISIANS have enthusiastically
taken up the fad for weekend par
ties In the country. Originally in
IL tended as safety valve for soc!e-
ty during the rush OF the winter
season the week end has now gradually
come TO be the most important feature OF
the summer. In theory there is nothing
more delightful or beneficial than one OF
these parties, and IL the week end OF fact
bore more resemblance to that OF fancy we
should in all probability thrive upon it. AS
1t is. however. 1t is quite the most exhaust
ing of all the amusements designed for
our benefit and carried out to our undolng.
For one ching the week end is frequently
plunge into the unknown. There are,
OF course. some houses in which we know
by experience or intuition just what to
psot long course OF these functions
whets the instinct to such an extent that
one can pretty accurately gauge the ca
pacity OF the cook and the mental capa-
bilitles of the guests by the way the
hostess puts OH her hat We all know
perfectly well the house to avoid, in which
the guests are expected TO make conversa-
tion after dinner, and where you have an
uncomfortable feeling that unless you at
tend Sunday morning service with the
family you are under the ban of your
hostess displeasure. But then there's the
W
joyable Of nst!tutions-where everybody is
Jolly and coHgenial AM where you are not
entertained 10 distraction.
A Dreadful Suspicion.
In my wanderings about at these af-
fairs I have come TO the conclusion that
their lack OF success is due to the fact
that a great majority OF hostesses seem 10
Invite their guests on the alphabetical
principle. Certainly this must have been
z 1he case at party in whiCl l found my
Self last week for beyond the fact that
everybody's name began with II there was
20 earthly clue as to why they should lave
been collected under the same roof. II any
Of them had nad sufficient sense OF humor
70 sec the iacongruity of the situation, the
party might have proved more cheerful.
As IL was they all took themselves serious-
", and there was nothing left to do but to
Eawn and get through the dragging hours
| Rs best they could.
u yas 4 faa commentary on natural
sSsse!ion to compare the gloom OF the as
eempied company on Friday evening with
fJts eheerfulness on Monday morning One
s3hsn sealized how great had been the ten
Evening star., 1907-08-10
A Black Costume.

Quite economical and extremely effective
is a fine black Russian net dress trimmed
with stripes Of broad black taffeta ribbon,
and the same idea may as we'll be executed
in colored net and colored taffeta ribbon
Evening star., 1907-08-10

Let man pray that none of his woman
kind should form just estimation OF h m.
-Thackeray.
Pierre weekly free press. (Pierre, S.D.) 1889-19??, 1907-10-03
eYRoscoPE AS COMPASS.
Its Use In Steering Steel Vessels and
Warships,

l11 use IN steering steel vessels ana
Warships.
The mariners compass occasionally
fails Of its purpose in these days of
iron ships and cargoes of a magnetic
nature. This especially is the case in
warships, where the hugs masses of
iron and steel in guns and gun terrets,
ETC., are liable to affect the reading Of
the compass. Z
It is the usual practice to make all
possible corrections, but gun turrets
have to be moved around, and the cor
rections cannot always be trusted.
Again, the shock due to the firing Of
big guns is bad for the compass. DR..
H. Anschutz-Kampfe has invented a
new form of steering standard, de-
pendent for its operation upon the
principle of the gyroscope.
This apparatus has been subjected
to exhaustive tests on a battleship.
where amid the firing Of great guns,
the movement Of the turrets and such
other disturbing influences as would
effectually have disposed of the ordi.
nary compass it behaved with remark
able precision and came out Of the
trials quite uninjured. The apparatus
consists essentially of an electrically
operated gyroscope carrying an indica.
ting needle and pivoted within an arc
similar to that of the ordinary com
pass.
The instrument does not necessarily
point north and south hit it tends
continually to point to any direction
in which it is set, and thus to indicate
any change Of direction of the ship 1t
is not proposed to displace the marin
er's compass by means Of this instru-
ment, for its readings would tend to
become inaccurate after long periods
Of use without resetting by some
standard. 1t will serve as a useful
supplement to the compass.
Pierre weekly free press. (Pierre, S.D.) 1889-19??, 1907-10-03
MANIA FOR DANCING.
Whole Family Had irresistible Desire
to Walk on Hands.

Whole Family Had irresistible Desire
to Walk on Hands.
A strange scene was witnessed the
other day in the office Of Paris pc.
lice superintendent.
A woman of middle age named
Nine. Brerotti entered his bureau TO
lodge a complaint OF the subject Of
her house. She could not, she said,
enter her apartment without an ire
sistible temptation to walk on her
hands.
Concluding that he had to deal with
a lunatic, the officer sent for the wo-
mans son, whom he told to have his
mother placed under care.
But she is sane" said the young
man. What she says about walking
on her hands is quite true, and feel
1t myself, as does an uncle who lives
with u.s.
The uncle, man Of 80, was sum-
moned, and he had not been talking
to the officers many minutes before he
declared the temptation was master
Ing him. Without more ado he began
careening about on his hands, mother
and son followed suit, and the superin-
tendent watched all three move easily
about on their hands with their heels
In the air.
Seeing that it was a case of family
lunatics, he hastily promised to ''have
the house disinfeeted," and drew up a
report to the asylum authorities.
Pierre weekly free press. (Pierre, S.D.) 1889-19??, 1907-10-03
Farmer Finds Masto don Bone

While Ora Earhart, living near Yes
sar Creek, Salt Creek township, Davis
county, Iowa, was repairing water
gate he discovered a bone Of some one
of the great prehistoric animals that
lived in this country ages ago, proba-
bly, that of mastodon. The bone
measures in height feet inches, 10
inches In circumference at its small
est and 80 inches at the joint Its
weight is so pounds. What is left Of
it is In a good state Of preservation,
but 1t has been broken or the upper
half has rotted off. This region Is
noted for many big. bones found within
the last ten years. Mr.. Earhart has Of.
fers for it, but has not made sale yet.
The fragment is evidently part of a
thigh bone.
Pierre weekly free press. (Pierre, S.D.) 1889-19??, 1907-10-03
Wouldn't Be Repressed.

A youn gadvocate was engaged in his
first case. He had evidently conned
his argument till he knew it by heart
Before he had proceeded ten minutes
with his oratorical effort the Judge de-
! cided the case in his favor and had
told him so. Despite this the young
lawyer would not cease. It seemed
that he had attained such momentum
that he could not stop. Finally the
Judge leaned forward, and in the po-
litest Of tones said: Mr.. Blank, not
'withstanding your arguments the
court has concluded to decide this
case In your, favor"
Pierre weekly free press. (Pierre, S.D.) 1889-19??, 1907-10-03
Lobsters From the Deep Sea.

A Maine fisherman, believing that
there are just as many Holsters as
ever, set his pots away out on Cash's
Banks, In the path Of ocean steam
ships, and when he hauled them he
found $500 splendid specimens, none
of them less than 10 inches and most
of them nearer Is and 20.
It is his theory that various causes
may have driven the crustaceans away
from the shore, but there rs still
plenty Of them If one can ascertain
their whereabouts. His views will I'M
.doubtedly prompt other fishermen to
act along similar lines In setting their
pots, and 1t is to be hoped that the
pessimistic views SO frequently ex.
pressed Of late will be disproved.
Pierre weekly free press. (Pierre, S.D.) 1889-19??, 1907-10-03
{. Just as He Was.

A Richmond minister not long ago
WAS asked to perform marriage Ger.
emony by young negro couple. Az
he had employed the groom for a year
or two, he consented. knowing what
prestige would come to the couple by
reason OF having been married by a
white minister. AT the appointed time,
says Harper's Weekly, the happy pair
arrived, and the ceremony proceeded.
Do you take this man for better or
for worse?" the Minister asked
For all her shyness, the bride spoke
up bravely.
No, sab; ah don't" she said. "Ah'll
take him jest like he is. II he wus ter
get any better, rs afraid he'd die; an
II he was ter get any wuss, ah'd kill
him myself"