Omaha daily bee., 1907-03-24

frocks was made clear to us the other day
by a dressmaker who has a reputation for
the successful making Of such models.
''Of course" she said, many Of my Gus
toners do not consider such matters as the
laundering or cleansing of their frocks
So long as the models are modish they are
satisfied.
But many women have to be careful
about these things, and 1 am always will
ing to advise them to the best OF my
ability. A large majority OF the prettiest
wash frocks this year are Joined into one
piece by insertion Wristbands. This is
quite satisfactory when the material Is
very sheer and the skirt not too heavy.
such frocks, II trimmed fatty, are easily
washed and ironed or cleaned, and the
skirt will not pull the lace waistband TO
pieces; but, in the case of a linen frock
or any frock with considerable skirt trim
ming, I have found II advisable to stay
the transparent waistband in some fashion.
It is possible to lay a piece OF fine but
firm muslin beneath the lace and set tiny
bones under the muslin, and this will save
a great deal of trouble II the frock is to
go into the tub regularly"
With the dropping shoulders which make
a change in the silhouette comes a change
in the general bodice line. Although the
bodlces and blouses appear to be softly
and carelessly draped, the figure OF the
fashionable woman Is now so corseted that
It is held more firmly than 1t has been
during recent seasons.
We heard last year that the Partisan was
in favor OF q higher bust line and more
pronounced waist curves, and many cor
! set models showed a tendency toward
such lines, yet the change OF figure was
not very noticeable among fashionable
Americans. This spring, however, the
movement is gaining more force and al
ready one sees many signs Of the change,
The imported models are all designed
with the French figure in view, and New
York corset makers and drsssmakers are
| subscribing 70 the tendency. Hips are, II
seems, entirely out of favor with the ultra
modish. The American woman, however,
viii not go to such lengths in the effort
to attain the fashionable figure as will
the Partisan, and hips are distinctly in
evidence In the average American figure.
As result many OF the French frocks
and coats will be decidedly unbecoming "a
! a majority Of American women, and II
II is 70 be hoped that the fashionable
| American will take her figure into con-
! siueIdllou peLofe SlaViHhly adopting the
latest modes, The bust line OF the new
figure is, as we have said, rather high;
/ the waist line is az the natural point and
gives very round and slight waist. The
hips are practically eliminated. and the
I skirt clings in its upper breadths, 10 flare
widely toward the foot. Pointed gulmpes
! are rather the rule, htting in with the
natural lines OF the hehu and pelerins
draperies.
One sim sees the shortened empire waist
line and particularly the line reaching the
natural waist In front. but running VI
| almost to the shoulder blade IN the back
/ Whether the vogue OF these lines is 10 con,
tinue or not is one Of the debated ques
tons
Paris has already had two seasons Of
the shortened waist, and It is seldom tha
a mode 80 radical outlves its second sea
son In Paris, but certain Of the grea
dressmakers seem loath 10 give up tn
short waist line, and we viii doubtless
see occasional models OF this type through
out the summer.
The empire suggestion stin survives II
many Of the short fancy coats, but 10
that matter, every period is represented
IN the coats Of the new season. Orienta
ideas prevail among the coats and tn
French makers lean very strongly towart
the mandarin and kimono lines and thel
| notifications.
The ample enveloping eloaks Of the re