The Washington herald., 1907-11-13
Velvet the Prevailing Fabric
for Smart TOiletteS.
SATIN WILL BE A CLOSE RIVAL
New Greeny-blue Color that Is Be
coming Popular Is Called "King-
hsher"-wuIkfng suits In Many
Effective Styles One-tOne Cos
tunes Preferable for Gatherings.

-4l'N-f AN INTO SklILS lnaN eilnR
or expand trimmed deliberately or not
at all, with blouses that define or conceal
the figure. and with sleeves full or droop-
ing. II invariably is becoming and ideal
ior such spectacular occasions as the
horse show
Satln Is TO be a close rival of velvet
and quantities Of it viii be in evidence.
One Of the prettiest new tones is the
kingnsher," which is greeny-blue. Other
novelties are wreaths of fvv leaves
In dark green and autumnaI tints on felt
mats a large purple faille hat. lined
with soft mauve satin. was pIctur
eSqueiy trimmed with a myriad tassel-
IKE fuchsia flowers in tones of rich pur-
pie rose, and white Fuchsia Is quite
the latest flower 10 be employed in mil
lnery.
waking suits are charming. and come
IN a number Of smart guises. 4 French
homespun is artistlcaIIy designed with
SKIRT and coat, and shown with 2 charm
ing blouse of silk Toscos. The front of
the skirt is made with a panel which
extends in loose fold around the bot
tohl' ana there Is an extra trimming OF
nat bands Of braid above the fold OF
homespun.
Inc coat is trimmed with panne velvet
which forms the revers. collars and cuffs
IL fastens az the front with a vest Of
white leather OF the softest finest o,,a1i,,.
lhere Is wide tuck on either side of Tho
back and front the tucks ending abova
Ihe waist line In front under bands of rho
cioth, which are cut In one with The coat
me DahdS are ornamented with "A row
OF velvet buttons. At the back the skirt
part OF the coat is tucked from rndor tbe
panel while the shoulder extends over Tho.
upper part Of the sleeve. the sleeve being
attached to the armhOle with a tuck The
buttons OF the sleeve are finished with
Guns or velvet, as previously mentioned
The cuffs. in turn, are ornamented with
crochet buttons and simulated button
holes
For certain occasions, particularly when
the wearer is ION view" one-tone cos
tunes are always more effective than
those which include gown of one color
q wrap Of another. and n hat Of the third
shade
In selecting a horse show hat il is we'll
70 remember that the light coming from
shadows on the face. and that a dark rat
which casts a shade will disagraeabIy.
augment such shadows. II a hat shades
the bT0w il should be Of white or some
delica INT and have many fluffy plumes
The long scarfs of tilmy fabrics used
alike for throat and head in connection
with evening wrappings. are exceedingly
useful during horse show week. as they
may be drawn about the shoulders when
tpe wrap is pushed aside. and used as a
long shawl when promenading. for in so
public resort it is incorrect TO exhibit
the throat and neck.
Browns IN all the wood tones. as we'll
as the toast and cinnamon shades. are
quite the smartest creations Of the tailor
These shades are used IN the strictly
tailored and in the semi-tailored suits.
They are combined with creams. deli
cate mauves, plumS, and especially with
the hunters and almond green.
Straps. folds, and plain lines Of stitch
ing are the most usual methods Of fin
ishing the palmer Of the tailored suits.
A great many buttons are also used.
They are usually arranged in groups or
at intervals singly around the foot Of the
skirt at the hem line.
They are cloth covered, like the gown
they trim, and are made on button moIds
They are set fat upon the skirt and
stitched down like discs. Some of them
are two and a half inches in diameter.
The fancy buttons are used only on the
jacket and vests.
Quite the favorite among collars are
the new turnovers. They are very high
and deliberately adorned with broderie
Anglaise and have hemstitched edges.
Almost without exception they are held
together at the front with a bar pin Of
gold or silver, and the old safety design
IS rarely II ever seen now.
Any pin may he substituted. but 4 plain
fine bar with a single jewel in the center
is more often used.
The variety OF linen or muslin tabs or
small fronts worn with these collars is
endless. and tiny silk bows of any color
are good
Plain turnover collars. with extremely
narrow pleated ruffies, are both pretty
and becoming for morning wear. There
are cuffs to match.
Covering the entire hem of the blouss
down the front are so-called jabots, TO be
worn with thin waists. They are not suit
able with plain blOuses having stin cuffs
4 woman who is al all clever with her
needle can make these front pieces with
strips Of embroidery or lace left from
other work, and there should be one or
more ruffies OF lace down each side.
Colors and shades have never been
more perfect more varied. ana more ar
tistic than they are at present There is
quite a furore for all shades Of mauve
heliotrope, violet, and purple; the latest
effective combinations Of colors appear 70
be mauve AID blue, not in light tones
but beautiful Parma mauve and fu!l-
toned blue.
Nothing definite has been decided about
sleeves, and both long and short sleeves
will be worn this winter; the lower part
Of long sleeves are often transparent.
Long jackets, trimmed with braid. hut
tons, and velvet, and opening on 10 waist
coats. cutaway coats. and sloping sboul-
ders. with tucks. pipings. and insertions.
are in the greatest vogue.
Inspiration has evidently been drawn by
the couturicrs from Louis XIV and Louis
XVI military uniforms. but the result IS
very new and modern.
Fancy tailor-mades seem to be nre-
ferred to the severer more masculine
style.
Gold and silver lace are not any longer
fashionable. but white lace is sometimes
embroidered with gold threads which out
line the pattern.
The brinns OF some ba+- aro ,,tot..,..