Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-23

boxes on wheels hauled by donkeys not
much larger than Newfoundland dogs.
The Algerian mule has an odd harness.
The collar ends in three horns; two OF
them are as long as cows horns and ex-
tend out from the shoulders. while the third
is Just over the neck and is shaped like the
horn Of rhinoceros. The latter STANDS
straight up above the neck of the mule, and
is usually about two feet In length. These
horns are hung with bells. which jingle as
the animals go. l observe that the mules
have leather blankets tied back Of these
horns. They may be for hot weather or
rain. Some of the better animals have
their hair clipped from their backs and
sides. Many wear shoes which extend out
about half an inch beyond the hoof all
around. The shoes of the donkeys are
made in a triangle with no opening at the
back. as is the case with our horseshoes.
Altogether French.
More than four-fifths of Oran is composed
sand French. thirty thousand Spaniards
and ten thousand Jews. The buildings are
almost all of French architecture, and were
1t not for the Moors. negroes and Berbers,
which are sprinked through every crowd.
one might imagine himself in one OF the
smaller cities of France.
The port has all modern landing facilities.
including steam cranes and eiectrlc hghts.
A long breakwater has been built out at
the west, and the stormy Mediterranean
dashes itself against it in vain.
There are cabs at the wharves, and one
rides up smooth roads which have oeeu
cut out of the sides of the mountains, to
the upper parts Of the city, where the best
hotels are. The rates for carriages for two
persons are 20 cents trip, and you can
ride all day for 40 cents an hour our ., ~,
The buildings are just like those OF
French towns. They are usually OF an even
height of from five to six stories, built OF
brick and plastered with stucco or a
creamy hue. They have stores and shops
on the ground floor and apartments above.
The most Of the people live In flats or
apartments. In every block there Is a res
taurant or cafe. with little. round iron
tables on the street outside II, ABOUT Whleh
a motley crowd sits drinking coffee, wine.
absynthe or some other liquor as they
gossip and chat, play cards or dominoes. or
read the newspapers. At the same time
there are little Arab bootDlacks moving
about begging custom, and Arab newsboys
who will give you the latest Oran daily
for one or two sous. The city has number
of dailies and they publish kilograms from
all over the world. It has schools, libraries
and a museum. There are parks here
and there throughout the town, under the
trees Of which one sees French peasant
girls sitting and knitting; there are many
and now and then Frenchman in blouse
pushing a cart just as in France
The Village Naigre.
II one would see the African side OF this
French town he must go back Of this mod
ern section, to the hills above 1t. There is
what is known as the Village Naigre, which
may mean Black Village or Negro Village,
as one wishes to translate 1t. The houses
in this quarter are Of only one story; they
are fat-roofed and of African style. There
Arabs sit on the streets chatting. Many
lie at full length upon mats on the pave
ments, wrapped up in their gowns. There
are Moorish coffee houses where Arabs and
Berbers are drinking together as they sit
cross-legged on the floor. and there are
Arab women moving about, each finding
her way only through peep-hole about as
big around as a wedding ring, which she
has made in the white, sheetlike gown
which she wraps tightly about her. There
are also Berber girls with big earrings. their
cheeks and chins blue with tattooing.
In addition to these characters there are
jugglers and storytellers, with crowds OF
Arab men and boys watching their antics