Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-03-30

wearer must assuredly bear evidence of
the effort exacted during the process.
The only solution of the difficulty 1 can
suggest is to meet the situation in an
amiable spirit and get right away from
preconceived notions. There is just one
thing to be said about the loose. incl
dental coatee-the simpler the outline Is
kept the more pronounced the cachet
Once we allow these little jackets to be-
come fussy they will catch the popular
eye. In their present quiet chicness it is
probable they will be an exclusive style
all through the fall.
The Popular Fabrics.
Right now one is interested in the
choice Of materials for morning and
afternoon costumes. For morning small
striped and checked cloths are the rage,
with Scotch plaids second on the list
The typical trotteur of the moment has
the lines or stripes ton sur ton"-that
is. matching the material-and even the
narrow velvet collar is made in the same
tint. There are no velvet cuffs to stiffen
the general effect. the wrist trimming
being of the cloth ornamented with a
fancy button Of some kind. The con-
trasting note appears in the hat softened
as much as possible with little malines
or mousseline de sole shaded like the
hair A new sulphur-colored cloth of a
very thin variety is the latest thing for
afternoon suits. 1t is fascinating in the
extreme. this delightful yellow fabric,
with its soft velvety sheen. when worn
by a girl with a lovely pink and white
complexion. There are several ways of
trimming it. but white forms the best
possible relief. We used to sew bands
of a contrasting color directly on the
material. but today the bands of white
on sulphur gown are inserted with
Jour" in silk on either side The re-
suit is exceedingly attractive, and all
the more noticeable on a decided color
like the sulphur.
To Be a Ribbon Season.
Ribbons. as 1 have been reiterating in
my letters lately, will play great part in
the composition of the spring and summer
models. and l foresee some charming pos
sibilties in alternate rows of ribbon and
lace insertion. Bengale, mandarin and mi
kado tussores are in favor in shaded tones.
and in some cases patterned in smart little
designs. Bengale tussore Is a thin, gauZy
stuff, while the two latter are coarser. Mar
quisette comes in line with these materials
and with its handsome border Is a lovely
stuff. Pompadour and chine silks, together
with the new foulards, are promised great
popularity. and the foulards are being made
up In a tailored fashion that Is Altogether
fetching and practical. Bretelles arranged
suite with the skirt have been worn
with much distinction all winter as con-
clus!on to the filmy net lace or mousseline
de sole blouse. But tickle fashion has be-
come weary of this sameness and now
elects that bretelleS shall appear quite as
smart as ever, but with a difference. After
forming narrow straps over the shoulders
they develop into species of gilet or vest
a silhouette that encourages some mighty
Elective jabot treatment.
Up to Date Tub Frocks.
EXQUISITE lingerie and linen models have
blouses Of the sheerest lingerie type and
over them funny little skeleton boleros
made of the skirt material. These So
called boeros open in the back and their
dignified relations hardly recognize them as
kin. Most all Of the tub" frocks, too,
are made with jumper effect. 1 don't
like this word Jumper" as 1t sauors too
much of workman's overalls, but it's the
fashion term, so one must use 1t. Well,
these smart frocks have waists made en-
tirely of bands of insertion, with the same
trimming forming the belt and long lines
down either side of the front seam. Sepa-
rate guimpes are better than to wear the
frock over lingerie blouse, for in the
guimpe effect the lines of the frock may
be considered in determining the lines of
the guimpe trimming. And, speaking of lin
ems. there is new shade dubbed paper"
1t is sort of colorless fawn without
hint of yellow or brown in it's toning.
brown hat, shoes and belt give character
and charm to frocks of this paper shade
CATHERINE TALBOT