Los Angeles herald., 1907-01-13
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long top garment-three-quarter seven-eighths
and the full length, reaching to the hem of the
gown, has been decreed by Fashion and gladly
appropriated by women.
On the other hand, the nobby little Empire
boleros Etons, pony and kmono coats are just
as much sought after in their peculiar field of
usefulness. 1t is seldom, however, that the ex-
tremes Of length are so generally favored, for it
is the coming in and going out of the extremes
that keep Fashions wheel revolving.
One garment is so thoroughly utiitarian, while
the other seems to exist by reason of its dapper
jaunty air and usually "becoming" qualities.
These top garments as a whole are loose, and
hang in long, straight lines, though there are
those with semiitted effects, especially in back
while others belted, conining the fullness to
the figure.
All evening wraps, however, quite loose,
almost baggy in some cases, and sweep away from
the shoulders in long, graceful lines. Right here
1t is timely to say that the wrap that comes to
the hem of the gown and even partially covers
the demtrain (seen many of the latest even
ing toilettes) is chosen by the woman who would
have the newest and smartest development in
evening wraps. This style, as one may imagine
is only adopted by the ultra-fashionable woman,
and one who incidentally has well-flled purse
LIBERAL CHOICE WITH, REGARD TO
STYLE.
There is really no special period of style that
is followed to the exclusion of all others. For
example, just picture the various outlines these
garments instantly call to mind; the Empire
Mandarin, Dolman, voluminous Morocco wrap,
loose plated coat with triple capes, small-shaped
wraps with point in back, the shaped cape with
centre seam and small capes. The redingote, be-
sides various models with cape and Mikado
sleeves and those with square shaped capes that
terminate in deep points with tasses at the
sides.
Then there are numerous fur and fur-lined
coats single and doublebreasted, which help to
swell the list into confusing numbers.
FOR PRACTICAL EVERYDAY WEAR.
A number of black coats of satin-fnshed cloth,
trimmed with fancy silk braids and touches of
velvet about the collar and cuffs are in steady
demand. Such garments are worn both for day
and evening wear. There is no pretense about
such models, which easily accommodate them
selves to various occasions. These being black,
there is less chance, too, of their showing soil.
For everyday wear and travelling, tourist suit.
ings trimmed with plain cloths are being worn
of these coats have shoulder straps of plain cloth
with high collars There are striped and plaid
Scotch tweeds made single and double breasted
with velvet or cloth collars and cuffs, and
strikingly big buttons. A half-ftted box coat
double-breasted and made of any appropriate ma
terial, is style that proves becoming to many
women. An Empire coat of heavy broadcloth or
Venetian in black or gun metal gray, having the
yoke portion of velvet and sleeves also touched
with it., would be an excellent choice for the
woman of ordinary means who must make one
garment do all-around service.
There are plenty of days when SERGE chevot
and various medium weight suitings are quite
sufficient, an adjustable lining regulating the
warmth. "
THE MANDARIN COAT.
OF all bizarre novelties this garment of the
almond.eyed Celestial easily ranks first, and me-
thinks that the dignity of mandarin in China
would receive great shock could he meet the
American woman of fashion arrayed in his coat
sacred alone to himself.
But Americans cannot stop for that, for
are we not wearing embroideries and laces of a
decidedly ecclesiastical persuasion?
On account of its extreme simplicity of outline
the mandarin coat lends itself well for all sorts
OF OrnameHtdIlOH lrOHl IHe IHOSC simple TO the
wonderfully ornate embellishments Only occa
sionally do you see the exact cut of the original
garment, but notifications are seen in plenty,
with an increasing length for the genuine garment
comes trife between the hip and knee line
Some women fortunate enough to possess
the real mandarin coats, with the dragons, flow
ers and queer water lines, but you see two dozen
of the make-beieve to one of the Simon Pure.
A society woman, lately back from a tour in
the Orient, created a sensation the other evening
at the opera by appearing in a turquoise blue
satin mandarin coat embroidered in gold drag
ons and shaded pink flowers, the deep border
being composed with slanting lines worked in
satin stitch of black silk, pale blue silk and heavy
gold thread. The design was made at the drec-
tion of its fortunate possessor.
DEMAND FOR MODIFICATION OF MANDA-
RIM
Notifications are seen of satin-faced cloths, vel
vets, heavy silks, elaborately trimmed with Chi
nese and Japanese embroideries. Others in the
kimono style have wealth of handsome braids
with metallic glitter, bands of heavy lace, vests
and trimmings of panne velvets, touches of cloth
of gold and silver heavily beaded laces and furs,
besides deep borders.
The kimono style of garment, while similar to
the mandarin, is of more graceful outline. An
excellent model seen the other day was cut into
pieces with seam in centre of the back the sides
were slashed almost to the hip line and gracefully
rounded. The neck was not cut charactersticaly