Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1907-02-23

slasheu over NelNet are frequently
seen as picturesque revival of n
by-gone fashion.
The draped waist or the surplice
Is often seen and its popularity Is
owing no doubt 10 it's universal be-
comlngness which with a few modi-
fications may be made to suit almost
any figure. II may be loose and full
and hanging for the thin woman;
Il may be drawn down tightly for
the stout woman for whom It can
be made to give added waist line.
The dressmaker who knows her bust.
ness can use these ideas 20 her
clients advantage. A dress having
an extremely plain skirt bordered at
the bottom with a band of lace over
contrasting color and above Il one
of narrow velvet ribbon, had drap-
ed surplice waist. A yoke of tucked
chiffon was topped with collar OF
the same. and to the yoke was at
tached the bodice proper. Around
the back, over the shoulders and
down the fronts was arranged a full
surplice ending at the waist and
crossed over TO the left side orna-
mented with a rosette. The sleeves
were of the puffed variety slashed
over lace and tucked chiffon. The
girdle was of velvet.
Al the present moment the lighter
more transparent materials are the
most popular, and with the great
number of them to choose from II Is
by no means a difficult task to select
attractive designs and to have n va
riety and not necessarily at great ex-
pense either. Hand painted and
printed chiffon is in most exquisite
colorings and designs and are
steadily growing in favor. They are
of necessity expensive. the hand
painted ones, but the printed ones
are effective enough for most people
to be satisfied with The colors are
fascinating. as well as the fashion OF
the plain bands OF color around the
hem, and then the lines OF flowers
and leaves or more conventlonallzed
designs running up towards the
waist are in most delicate shadings.
These are in beautiful tones of grey.
mauve while pale blues and pinks
are satisfactory also. n. perhaps not
so original.
Much depends upon the Innings for
these thin materials. for they make
or mar the coloring, and. indeed. II
takes the eye OF an artist to obtain
the desired effect In many instances
The tones OF grey can be intensified
or modified and often entirely trans
formed by the grey lining. while
most fascinating harmonies in mauye
TWo--FASHION .. o.. ...
and blue and pink and crimson can
be accomplished by the lining being
Of deeper or lighter hue. Then for
those who prefer the more conserya-
tive colorings the background OF the
same shade or Just a tone lighter can
be had, so that, as can well be imag-
ined IL is possible 10 get an unlimit-
ed range OF coloring. One point in
favor OF these figured thin materials
should also be borne in mind-they
require no other triming. the pattern
furnishing that. 80 that lace in yoke
or bertha and the girdle or bodice
OF satin velvet or silk Is all sum
cient. Often. too, the latter can be
ommitted when an empire or princess
style II chosen.
These styles have been so conspic-
uously for 30 long a time that there
are well founded rumors from head
quarters OF fashion 10 the effect that
ere long they viii no longer reign as
prime fayorites. In spite OF all the
rumors. however. the influence OF
the empire is most distinctly notice
able and the princess gowns are most
popular. There is not the same en-
aggerated rendering OF the fashion