The Montgomery advertiser., 1907-08-25
Mrs. Osborn, America's Foremost Modiste, Comments on the Re lation of Climate
 to Style.
Her Plea for More individuality in
 Swomen's Dress.

(copyright, 1907, by The Delineator.
 New York, August IS, l907.)
 Tn thinking of styles today as com pared with those of the past" says Mrs. Osborn in The Delineator for Septem- Der. when fashions were so fixed. so decided, I have come to the conclusion that there Is one paramount difference, one paramount advance, namely; the reason back of changing fashions, the cause of innovations. That cause is the demand for comfort, the demand on the part of women for clothes that shall suit them, not somebody else"
 Styles for autumn markedly confirm this trend The women are gradually learning, also, that 1t is much more sensible to wear thinner fabrics in the fall and winter, regulating the warmth by having supply of outer wraps to put on or take of as the temperature demands In New York especially, where both the climate and steam heated homes make thinner gowns im- perative even in midwinter, you Will find lighter weight dresses to prevail It is no longer thought necessary to scramble to buy. a heavy cloth gown when September comes.
 Thinner gowns are now made more possible for the street on account of the appearance of the long-coat. This distinctive as well as very useful wrap is likely to become quite the thing. In fact, 1t is inevitable as a companion 10 the lighter-weight gowns.
 .So," continues Mrs. Osborn. when I say that lightweight dresses should be worn all winter, add the plea that women will not immediately fly at me with the cry of impracticability. Thin clothes are no more expensive than heavy. They come in shades just as seryiceable, and two long-coats are sufficient for all weather changes ana certainly are not mad extravaganza" . It is commendable that the cut of these coats is more suitable for general wear than in recent seasons. For ex- ample, the fitted back and the. distinct ly normal waistline. The correct length varies from forty-four to fifty five inches and for hard wear may be made of English worsted, covert, or broadcloth. Only one thing is demand ed-the garment must permit woman 10 20 on the street warmly dressed 2 without changing her thin gown.
 It is not always possible to trace directly the source of a particular style of dress; but in this instance there IS no difficulty. We can lay it largely to inc climate. Our winters are by nc means what they were. The whole scheme of weather seems to have shift ed-Llate spring, summer in autumn London rains Instead of brisk winter It has become an art to cope With tht modern American climate. This vogue 2 for thin dresses In winter will, nc doubt, prove more than vogue. II is written, written by the weather man that until the seasons swing into some dependable stability, we must dress bS the day and not by the calendar.
 z Even the theories of medical advisers enter into this matter of dress Physi' { clans now recommend an abundance o fresh air, a toning and toughening o the system by fading all the rigors O climate and of making cold tonic in stead of a menace to health. Womei are becoming more and more impresse' by this one hygienic principle; clothe must be regulated by the weather m matter at what season of tho year
 Thus we are assured upon this fact you will find no longer any notable difference between the materials fol summer and winter. Many at hrs win call this absurd, crazy, perhaps but time will prove the assertion Graceful, clinging fabrics, such as chlr fon cloths, marquisette. crepe de Chlne the various silks, muslins even, VII be found prevalent this winter whei supplemented by the long coat
 Common sense is at last becominl operative in the matter of woman
 dress. Today's styles are bearing tn stamp of it. Tt is far from sensible. Mrs. Osborn writes further, that w should have been governed so long b. the calendar. since back of the calen dar is the weather. But many peopl