The daily sentinel., 1907-12-04
SHORT SKIRT
LONG COAT

and long coat-it sounds absurd does
1t not? The picture of woman so
dressed without she has the figure of
"a Venus Is ludicrous-yet such is the
mandate of Dame Fashion and the
designers and makers have followed
her laws only to outwit her. A GER
tain line of cut and finish and dis
posal OF trimmings has made such
decree possible.
Assuredly skirts are short; that is,
the trotteur, or sidewalk skirt as it is
variously called, is short, ard those
for the house are longer. This new
short skirt is not of the variety we
have had, it is growing shorter and |
shorter and now 1t is thought only |
fashionable for the length to escape |
the ground by five inches.
II is decidedly trying style for |
the short woman, she who has large |
hips or over large feet. It were bet
ter in such cases that a woman be n
little conservative ard have the len
9Th of the old two inch from the
variety"
Much care must be given to the
style and condition of the shoes for
this reason, and for many years no
greater attention has been given to
footwear.
While the walking skirt is short.
1t may be of the plated. the circu-
lar or plated gored variety, and the
favorite materials are the worsteds.
cheviots, serges, mohairs, tailor-suit-
ings. which should be made up in the
most severe tailored style. The ma
terials mentioned are to be found in
stripes. Invisible plaids. checks with
extra over-lines, over plaids and over
checks. Plain goods are to be found
as well as some mixtures.
Trimmings for the short skirt ex-
cept for very tall women should a.
void cross wise patterns which de-
tracts from the height of the figure.
For the longer skirts bands will be
used or blind tucks and an attract
i've idea was the use of bands on al
terLating box-plait panels. Many of
the plated skirts have mitred or
fleur-de-lis designs, on the wider
plaits.
Braid of the hercules, soutache
or radium pull braids are the most
favored trimmings for skirts as well
as for coats. The radiums which
have a very glossy surface are much
favored as they are to be found in
many widths and may be pulled into
beautiful designs. The novelty silk
braids, which show many beautiful
color combinations are much liked
for the plain suitiLgs. On some new
skirts of recent importation plain
worsteds and serges has been used
in the construction and cross wise
bands cut on the bias were used as n
trimming piped with brighter col
or. A grey was piped with orange,
blue serge with chihez showing
rose and dull green tints, green with
white and black and black with
russell cloth. A few suits had tiny
piping of leather or chamois.
An attractive skirt was developed
from a smoke-grey melton striped
with n black silk hair line. favor
ite pattern idea Just now. The plait-
ed skirt was shaped from an eleven
gored model, each alternating gore
was decorated with three two inch
bands of the cloth and piped with old
rose velvet The jacket to this suit
| is very short covering but little dis
tance below the waist, curved under
the arms, and showing vest of old
rose velvet braided with black SOU
tache braid The sleeves are fun
and short of the regular Japanese ad-
justment and bands of the old rose
l
and shoes may be in black.
A dressy skirt that would do much
good service could be made from
blue serge. 1t is cut III seven cores
with a front panel. The panel Is
plain the remaining widths are ad-
justed to the figure by side plaits
stitched to hip depth. A pretty ar
rangement of tucks ornaments the
lower portion of the skirt. Other
materials such as voile, cashmere,
nuns yelling could be used and the
bands may be of bias bands of check
ed silk, plaid novelty braid or vel
vet ribbon.
For an odd skirt to be worn with
black jacket pretty colored broad
cloth was used. Seven cores were
used In its construction, The model
was in round length fitted smoothly
over the hips and nared towards the
bottom to a width Of four yards and
three quarters at Its lower edge.
An inverted plalt concealed the clos
ing In the back. This skirt had
rather elaborate decoration OF hne
soutache braid and harrow ribbon.
The Jacket was of black broadcloth In
a modified Eton which fell below the
waist line and closed over a vest OF
fancy cloth.
One of the most favored coats OF
this season is the smart thirty-inch
cut-away. 1t is mannish in Its cut,
strictly tailored in its finish and braid
trimmed; It has long coat sleeves
that show a few tucks above the
elbow. An attractive example of
such a coat was developed from blue
uroa oadclbth. Double breasted, Ut
stoned gradually away from the
last button just a little above the
waist line. The darts and under arm
seams gave it most graceful curve,
the edges of skirt, collar and turned
back cuffs were finished with nat
one-inch black silk braid. The shawl
collar and cuffs were decorated by
an inset of velvet in man-style but
tons of black velvet and button holes
lnisbed the closing, and pocket in
the left over the breast gave n very
natty finish. with this was worn
plated skirt of the five inch from the
ground variety, with a plain front
gore from under which extended