New-York tribune., 1907-05-19
Lingerie GosOrs for. S11n7n,er.
Which Handwo Lavished-Frocks for
the Young Matron.

Istt c1I4O
The development Of the lingerie gown from
comparatively simple thing Of lawn, designed for
GOODNESS and comfort summer days into a
complicated creation of filmy lace and dapha-
null, Satiste or French organdie has been
the crowning triumph of Partisan dressmakers
All the feminine world and especially such
women as have long and well filled purses, have
adopted this style of dress for morning after
noon and evening wear The many brides of
April and those OF June have shown prefer
ence for models on the princess order for their
wedding dresses. June brides will revel in chif-
fon. ninon. chiffon CLOTH silk null or lace of
gauzy beauty, while those who can afford it will
wear gowns of India null, exqusitely and law
fshly embroidered by hand and inset with price
less old Valencennes and Mechlin laces, the
work representing weeks Of toll by the most
skilful needewomen. Such a dress costs fully
$500. for both the iaces mentioned are extremely
hard TO procure and at this price they are
sparingly used the wonderful embroidery being
the chief feature of the robe.
In the trousseau, if the clinging, graceful lines
are becoming (Which they TO all the
grossly stouD, even the underclothes are made
to conform to this picturesque willowy fashion
so that no bulk from gathered or extra waist
bands shall destroy the symmetry of the curves
The fuffiness in this seasons models is from
the knee down, and at the corsage. Except in
gowns for evening wear, the only frills are of
narrow lace that softens the edge of the woke
or of the bretelles. BretelIes or similar strap
effects constitute the main part of the upper
portion of many princess dresses, especially for
the younger set of matrons debutantes and
girls who ernancipated from school but have
not as yet finally crossed socety's threshold
For these last named maidens simplicity is
strictly adhered 10, and printed French organdies
with waists of Mechlin or Valenciennes or point
d'esprit lace are the favorite materials. for their
pretty afternoon gowns.
The girlish and attractive evening dress for a
debutante which is illustrated herewith is one
OF the newest importations at a fashionable
dressmaker's in 33d street This dancing frock
is Of finest white Swiss muslin, with insertings
and edgings Of Valencennes lace. and the hand
run tucks that end in graduated lengths below
the hips give just enough fulness at the corsage
and in the lower part TO conceal the extreme
slenderness of a very young debutante or girl
not yet out 1t is an inexpensive little affair."
too, S125 being the price asked. The morning
dress illustrated is also designed for a maiden
1t is a French linen OF fascinating shade of
pale apple blossom pink The hand embroidery
is in large. boldly padded outlines of clover
leaves, partly filed in with seed dots and partly
with convent work The CIuny lace insertings
which are in a rich, creamy shade, almost a
burned ivory, are in charming contrast to the
dead white Of the embroidered design and the
mellow pink Of the linen. The neck is finished
In that colarless, indefinite fashion commonly
known the Dutch neck" The back of the
model is just as attractive the front. and al
though the ultimate owner will paw only Sl5O
for it she can well count upon it being one of
the most fetching gowns in her entire wardrobe
The dressy afternoon frock in the picture is
made OF white French organdie. with the Span
ish founce and insertings of real Clunv Of a
tint scarcely off pure white Valenciennes is
also used in profuson, but is not too ornately
disposed, for the chief beauty of the dress lies
in the medallions of the heavier lace and the
lines given by the tuckngs and insertings
There is a bewitchingly graceful design en-
broidered on the yoke, in which not careless
stitch can be found so perfect is the detail and
when this and the lace are taken into considera-
lon, $40 seems a modest pay for the
model.
The fourth Of the photographed costumes is
one that the most critical woman would at sight
pronounce "a dream" for il is almost covered
with hand embroidery in a trailing design of
poppy vines. above which, and occasionally be-
tween the flowers as well, butterflies with wide
spread wings appear TO hover. The narrow
panelled insertings are of Valenciennes lace of
The most coowebby mesh, with the embroidered
Designs running often over the edges. The
foundation material OF the gown, a sheer. soft
finish French organdie. seems almost too fragile
TO support the wealth of handwork and the hem
SHOWS a WaVy, scalloped line, bordered by two
fufy ruf1es of Nalencennes lace. Two hum
ored and twenty-five dollars is the amount
asked Tor this dress. which is suitable for after
noon functions, such musicals, garden parties
or large bridge, where every woman endeav-
ors to outshine the others in some beruffled hit
Of extravaganza. II is also appropriate for
casino dinners at the pier, when the sea breezes
nave not swept the sultriness from the August
nights.
For Newport matrons one or two especially
handsome dresses are being made this estab-
Ishment One, in princess effect, of hand
woven unbeached linen, is in small panels most
wonderfully embroidered in vines of small
leaves, between which Irish crochet beading
,nsertings, also in linen color. These insertingg
end IN the upper part Of fiounce that is almost
entirely of Irish crochet lace the little linen
combined with IL being embroidered in imitation
OF the lace design. And the lace is of most
unusual type, even in this huge family of laces
wnere originality runs riot in the groupings of
lhe sprlgs or flowers, or in the mesh for
IL SHOWS multitude of different flowers. buds
and leaves to a height of fifteen inches or more
against lattced mesh, on which they seem TO
climb The waist, which is attached to the
SKIRT, repeats the panelled embroidery outlined
by beadsngs, and the yoke is of the marvellous
lace, with small. transparent yoke of real
valenclennes insertings fagoted together Three
hundred and fifty dollars is the price ~ tbie