Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-25

pie little gown" is to the fore again, and
here in Paris it often takes the form of
tussore frock that imagination fondly pic
lures as procurable for few dollars and
Is an illuminative instance of the delusive
idea that prevails. The heavyweight tus-
sore at its best is not cheap, and as it is
ordinary frock absorbs quite a discour-
aging number of yards. What really brings
up the price of such a costume to alarm
ing proportions Is the handwork exacted
by the lingerie chemisette and sleeves
that almost invariably accompany a dress
of this kind. The tussore frock is more
blouse idea, the skirt material merely
hndinS complimentary recognition in some
light. artistic form of skeleton corsage.
There is no doubt at all about the charm
OF these 1lmy upper parts, but, as I have
just remarked. the time they take in the
making spells money. delightful gray
tussore gown was shown me at smart
atelier the other day. with the bodice
symphony of finely tucked gray chiffon
and lace mounted over gold and blue shot
tissue that sent forth most fascinating and
bew1ldering glfnts of color. To continue
the story of tussore silk, 1t Is lovely in its
new guise of striped effects, and in mix
lures of blue and white and pale brown and
white and mauve nothing prettier could be
asked in the way of coloring. Made up
with a trimming of crossway bands of the
same fabric and possibly judicious sprink-
ling of tassel pendants and undersleeves
and vest of tucked lawn, a striped tussore
gown Is a thing of beauty, and a joy all
through the hot weather. 1 would hold a
brief, too, for a plain coat and skirt COS
tune of manufactured tussore well cut
and simply made and crowned by a mush-
room hat with wreath of yellow roses
about its hardly distinguishable top.
The tuHic skirt Is seen in the summer
modes, but 1t Is scarcely likely to have
much of following except in costumes
boa sting the short pointed train. In lace
over chiffon this idea Is particularly good
style. and simulated effect is often OBJ
tanned with silk fringe headed by an old
fashioned putting of silk.
Antique lace and filet nets made attract
i've by the addition of embroidery are ex-
tensively used for bodice adornments On
antique lace the embroidery Is done over
certain Of the prominent figures in the pat
tern, while the f1let is worked in almost
every fashion that taste and ingenuity can
devise. Sometimes the designs are made
by darning the net; sometimes bold. rath-
er heavy patterns are twisted in lover and
over stitches with chenille, heavy embroid-
cry silk or even with worsted combined
with silk.
The Diaphanous Gown.
Lingerie gowns are fascinating this sea-
son, with their faint touches of color here
and there that appear in tiny medallions
worked in small rosebud and forgetmenot
patterns in silks or washable cotton. The
daintiest of these exquisite lingerie gowns
are practically seamless. their separate
parts being Joined by narrow lines of lace
or shirred baby ribbon.
For sheer summer frocks the triple skirt
Is favorfte model, and when made of
net or lace the cores and founces are trim
med with narrow velvet ribbon, and wider
ribbon of the same soft variety Is used for
the sash and waist adornment,
1t would be difficult to say to what period
and to what style the hats of the season
belong, but almost all have big, full crowns
and dropping bell-shaped brims, and the
general appearance, it must be confessed,
Is often topheavy, except in the case of
toQues. These-and under this head come
most Of the small shapes-are worn well
of the face, and the correct pose Is a side
wise one. In fact, the success of all the
new millinery depends on the pose. Hats
are pushed farther and farther back until
there Is as much hair to be seen from the
forehead as from the nape of the neck
Large hats are placed toward the back
of the head, leaving the raised masses of
hair showing in front. Consequently the
low style of hairdressing or the Greek Golf
fure which Is the midway compromise is
being adopted by many smart women.
To come back to the pose of the cEa-
peau, the pushed-back effect is by no means
conducive to trim outline, but it Is the
thing just now and therefore Is to be ad-
mired. To this millinery do not pay that
fealty which I usually bestow upon any
fashion just for fashions sake, for 1t Is too
to the majority Of the women
to be encouraged, but ninety-nine out of a
hundred of the fair sex will wear it with
CATHERINE TALBOT.