davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
Home Dressmaking Problems Solved

tur.. IS been rumored, but it seems
hardly likely to receive much favor.
US a skirt of this sort Is always
heavy.
II is true that 60 much cloth and
So much lining have probably tn
same actual weight, whether made
tooethnr or separate, but the lined
skirt worn over the foundation pet
ticoat is apparently much lighter.
and certainly more graceful.
Skirt seams should be opened and
pressed, the raw edges of the lining
and the outside material put to-
gether and tackled, if a separate
drop skirt is to be used.
The edges are overcast in an un-
lined WOODEN skirt, the seams pressed
open, and the silk lining bound with
bias strips.
The lower part is hemmed inyis-
IDLY, turned up, pressed and bound
as the material demands.
The velveteen binding is run on
after the hem, turned and then hem
ned down, or the new binding that
requires one sewing is used.
In either case the binding should
project an eighth of an inch below
the edge.
Sew the hooks and eyes three
fourths of an inch apart on the
front of a tight-ftting waist and
back from the edge SO as to prevent
any gaping.
Run a whalebone up each front
edge to the top of the darts to keep
the edges of the waist firm. Cover
all but the extreme edges of tho
hooks and eyes with a strip of seam
binding hemmed down.
If waist has been carefully bast-
ed it will be easy to stitch the seams
straight. The stitching, except on a
wash gown. should be done with silk,
and with a very easy tension on the
machine.
The stitching should be done just
outside the hastings to allow for the
bonings.
Finish the edges of the seams with
everlasting, or seam-binding, or
turn them in AID run them together.
Use a snail iron for l-essinc
seams, and open all seams. Velvet
or cloth seams are finished by stand
ing an iron with small end up and
running the seam over it quickly,
using a bit of thin crinoline be-
tween the goods and the iron.
Where there is pleated front full
ness laid upon the shoulders of
waist, the tror ts being open, use
small buttons for the trimming of
the pleats.
There are usually three pleats on
the side of each front.
On the first and second pleats
frame the front opening of the
bodice, and, starting at the top Of
the shoulder line, place vertical
downward row of buttons. Upon
the third pleat next to the sleeve
place but four buttons.
Upon each upturned cuff place
two vertical lines of buttons. Con-
sidering these as enamel buttons,
their effect upo- a silk or wooden
waist is pleasing and simple.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13

N making gowns for growing girls
it is well to provide for the
outgrowing of the garment in adj
vance. without spelling the effect
IL the beginning by making them
too large and ill-ftting.
For instance, the belts of the
dresses may be set up on the waist
instead of on the edge.
In this way one is enabled to
lengthen the waist line by setting
the belt down some two inches. 1t is
usually in this particular that the
gown is first apt to need lengthen-
ing.
Deep tucks are much in vogue,
and are exceedingly convenient for
this purpose. 1t is quite easy to
leave eIough space between each two
tucks to enable one to take others
on the wrong side under the wider
ones.
These will not show at all, and
can be let out as needed without any
other change in the skirt.
The outgrowing of the sleeves
may be provided against in a meas
ure by setting the cuffs up, instead
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
In Wearing the Tailored Suit

THE figure Is the hrst important
L thing in the wearing Of the
plain tailored suit.
The carriage should be correct,
and the matter of waist line care
fully watched.
( "A good-looking tailored suit and
q s.ovenly waist line is an impossi-.
bic combination.
The length of the coat should be
governed by the height of the
wearer. For the medium sized wom-
an the three-quarter or the long coat
is particularly adapted. But the
very short and the extremely tall
woman should avoid this style, as it
will rarely prove becoming to either.
The simple, single-breasted cos
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
Renewing Cloth Bands.

| F the cloth bands on the last sea-
sons frock have becom, frayed
and look ragged, get heavy SOU
tache braid in the same shade and
stitch over the edges of the cloth
bands.
This will remedy the difficulty
and add IN the beauty of the gar
ment as we'll.
AS walking skirts are still worn
short, one can afford to turn up
the lower edge of the skirt, where
the material has been cut by wear
ing, at least half an inch.
This will make the bottom of
tie skirt look fresh and new, and
will not make the average skirt Of
last season too short for the pres
ent styles
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
To Make Fancy Guirnpes.

N MAKING the fancy guimpes
so much worn by both adults
and children, the material should
first be tucked, or spaces left for
the lace insertion, if any be desired.
before cutting out.
The lace can then be basted on
either edge-fat on the tucked ma
terial-and the fabric cut away
from underneath.
Leave about quarter of an inch
on each sid of the lace. Turn this
back on the material 1 i stitch on
the edge of the lace.
Finish with feather stitching done
with crochet or mercerize cotton,
as preferred
This makes a very pretty finish,
and enables the carmen t, bear re-
peated launterings without the ma
terial fraying away from the lace,
as it is apt do in the ase of most
read y-made garments.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
The Materials for Winter.
,PROCADES are coming in again

.PROCADES are coming in again.
= They are usually shown in soft
satins, ninons and crepes for even.
ing dresses and blouses.
The embroidered fabrics continue
to be on the increase.
Taffetas, of course. will be worn
a great deal, but the newer fancy is
for the soft, thick silks.
Needlework and hand painting
decorate the surface of many of the
more beautiful satins. velvet and
chiffons. .....- ,......
Some of the new. brooches are
frightened with touches of gold and
silver thread. picking out the pat
term and here and there beautifed
with pearls and other BEADS
For shirtwaists and everyday
blouses, cashmere, nuns veilings and
fine cloth, will be very good, as vii!
also the French dclaine.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
A Foliage Fancy.

ONE Of the novel effe ! of the
~ season is that the foliage and
stems are often shown to match the
color of the hat, while the flowers
are in the natural tints.
Maine continues to be used as
the smartest material for the under
trimming, and is selected in q shade
to correspond With the hair.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13

tune coat that clings to the figure
and is cut to hip length is much bet
ter adapted to extreme figures.
The best made of these coats are
marvels of shapeliness, and give
lines and curves to the thinnest and
most angular figure, and, what is
most 'importal1t this season, suggest
a small waist, not SO much by actual
measurement as by contrast with
the contour above. y
Another type of costume. coat IS
the knee-deep model, with cutaway
fronts. This is so simple in style
that to be a success it must needs
be cut and made by a tailor who
knows his business thoroughly.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13

made is the untrimmed skirt, and
the much-tr.mmed jacket or bodice.
The first illustration shows
smart cheviot model, semi-ftting, in
green and brown check. 1t is an
exceedingly smart model for young
girl, and one that can easily be
fashioned at home.
ia collar is of brown velvet with
a pleated or plain skirt, though the
pleated skirt with the three-inch
fold on the bottom is much smarter.
The second model is in one of the
new blues braided in an inch-wide
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13

+ ANNO4ED by the dust-holdlng
qualities o. the ordln.cy petit
coat rufile, as well as by the rapidity
with which It wears out, try cutting
the next one III circular form.
Use two yards of yard-wide taft
feta, cut two circles yard in diam
eter, til cut a smaller circle from
the center of each. leaving a ruffie
a foot in width.
{, open the circular ruffies on a
straight edge and join the two pieces
with felled seams. Hem and attach
as you would any ruffie. When the
hem trays cut it off and 'rehem.
This method offers no fold or
creases in which dust may settle.
and thus prolougs the life of pet
ticoat.
p re to get dead white mohair
for t.-e white mohair skirt. Cream
color destroys the beauty of the
lingerie blouse. Sun pleat it, or II
tho+ 'a too difficult, put it in tiny
pleats.
When joining a bias piece of ma
terial to a straight piece always
keep the bias piece underneath, as
this prevents it from stretching.
Prepared dyes are used at home
with complete success and they make
possible q wonderful amount Of
Doing over. Everything will dye
black that will dye at all, and
black dress is always useful and
unobtrusive.
In -,,okinp shirtwaist most peo-
pie bunch the fulness too much,
both in the back and front.
In the back the fulness should
extend five inches, while that in
front occupies a space of seven and
q half and eight inches.
This applies to slender figures as
we'll as to stout. for the object is to
have the fulness fall straight from
the shoulders, giving the square eff
feet.
Where the material is q yard wide
such shirtwaist can be made from
less than two yards, and sheer wash
cottons and heavy linen will mako
up very we'll, indeed, according to
this plan
Before the shirt takes its trip to
t, la',~drv. run a basting thread
in the Marie Antoinette frill which
may adorn it, to hold the pleat in
place.
If a skirt is of heavy material
or the facing is of cloth, the upper
edge may be bound with bias strip
of lining. or seam binding.
Tb"n stitch along the ron of tho
hem or facing to avoid extra thick
T"ss, "r turn in edge of cloth after
the hem or facing of skirt is COM
pleted.
Most of the walking skirts are
low finished with braid bindings, SO
as to protect the bottom of the skirt,
and the braid should be allowed to
extend one-quarter of an inch be-
yond tic edge of the skirt.
The fat-lined skirt, as it is called
when skirt and lining are made in
enc, is scarcely ever seen. It's re-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
Gauntlet Glove.

TIE gauntlet glove has taken a
1 hold on the fancy of the fastidi-
Gus, and is seen with almost any
street costume.
This form of glove was once con-
fined to the proper finish for the rid
ing costume, but it has broken
bonds and now covers the coat cuff
of pedestrian SHIFTS.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13

"AILORED clothes were never
so varied in form and de-
i sign.
First. there is the strictly
tailored suit of tweeds. cheviots,
serge or herringbone, made in short
or round lengths.
For these tailored suits, stripes
continue to be very much in favor,
but the monotony of white and
black, blue and gray and green and
brown is r-lieved by trimmings of
rho. -ftlron pink, wedgewood blue.
leaf green and bronze browns on
the collars and cuffs. and sometimes
on the bands around the bottom of
the skirts.
There are waistcoats, too, of solid
colors. even when the color is not
utilized as garniture.
A vest of scarlet cloth is admi-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13

Ou tins very largely depends the
success of the trimming.
. In any design other than straight
rows it is not well to use the ma
chine, as it is sure to quicker the
material.
Plenty of patience, tiny stitches
and much care are required for
success in this line of work.
Put on in relief, as it is called.
this sort of trimming is most eff
fective. This iS done by hemming
on one edge only, allowing tho
braid to stand up on the material.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13

silk braid. The buttons are of braid
with rims Of cloth. The cuffs and
collars are of a light shade of tho
blue.
The next suit is in green broad
cloth with soutache braid in black.
The sleeves on this model are very
NJ" and give the desired long
shouldered effect which is being
tried now in Paris.
The last design is carried out in
brown velvet. The passc,nenterie
fastenings give a smart look to the
whole costume. They are in gilt
ard brown.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
Sleeve Suggestions.

y is insisted that sleeves have a
moderate fulness at the shout
ders, and for the rest are full length
or three-quarter, according to the
character of the coat.
Some of the new long sleeves are
tucked lengthwise, between elbow
and wriss. and finished with braid
trimmed cuffs.
Shorter sleeves are terminated
with trimmed cuffs or strap bands.
and often little frills of lace
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
The New Collars:

COLLARS are small and inclined
- to show velvet ,facings when
used en- street suits. y
These tailored collars are often
embroidered in braid or decorated
with velvet hens.
The collars on blouses or after
noon frocks are extremely high and
stif1y boned.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
Bandeau Notes.

TIE passing Of the high bandeau
q is great point in favor of
the new millinery.
When a bandeau is used it is a
round, modest affair, which barely
lifts the hat from the head and tits
it not at all
It is generally draped with a bit
of illusion, generally brown, merely
to cover it and keep it. from being
seen.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
Gowns for the Growing Girl

Of joining at the edge of the sleeves.
Also tiny little tucks may be
taken at the bend of the elbow at
the inside seam.
All these little points add to the
lifetime of a frock, and mean
great saving to the busy mother.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
Gold Chain Bags.

GOLD chain bags have lost none
Of their popularity.
J. fact they are worn more than
The small sizes, however, are not
as much in favor as formerly.
The Larger sizes have, apparently,
become feature Of milady's collec-
ton.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
PROPULSION of Velvet Flowers,

FLOWERS are enormous. At the
= beginning of the season the
large, full single rose was the fash
ion. Now this has increased to sew
eral roses Of huge proportions.
Morning-glories continue fash
ionable.
They, too, are made Of velvet, as
are the handsomest roses.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
Opals Again Popular.

nPALS are gaining in favor.
Many new designs in jew
elry have opals for the principal
stone, and being surrounded with
diamonds are sufficiently beautiful
to cause women to cast aside their
old superstition.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
The New Belts.

THE newest belts show a combina-
1 ton of gold and silver and
braid and leather mixed. Then two
leather overlaid are very often used.
A pretty expression was seen in
belt Of white kid, tucked top and
bottom and centered by box pleat,
on either side of which was laid q
half-inch band of silver braid.
In the mixed leather a smart belt
vas Shown The foundation was of
white, overlaid with a narrower
band of fawn-colored leather.
pierced with holes the size of cherry
stones and showing the white leather
underneath.
Printed kids and repousse kid are
much used for the composition of
the new belts, which are fairly wide
and straight all around, or shaped
narrower in front.
One of the newest ideas is belt
of tan-colored suede, with one of
the ends cut out as fringe.
Soft and charming are the wide
belts of gold and silver cloth and
matelasse, embroidered velvet, silk
and satin and China silk ribbon
with velvet border.
Other belts are of plain suede,
with merely very handsome buckle
for ornamentation.
Others are of soft gla=cd leath-
er, in dull pastel shades, with odd
figures and designs printed over
them in contrasting but not aggres-
sive colors.
Coral buckles. in quaint rose bou-
quets adorn many Of the black silk
webbing belts.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13
Renovating Passementerie.

A PASSEMENTERIE trimming.
. ! not entirely worn beyond service,
but which looks triae old and gray,
can often be induced to take on q
new lease of life by simply sponging
on both sides with clear black tea
and ammonia.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13

THE newest belts show a combina-
ton of gold and silver and
braid and leather mixed. Then two
leather overlaid are very often used.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13

One Of the newest ideas is belt
of tan-colored suede. with one of
the ends cut out as fringe.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13

Soft and charming are the wide
belts of gold and silver cloth and
matelasse, embroidered velvet, silk
and satin and China silk ribbon
with velvet border.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13

Coral buckles. in quaint rose bou-
quets adorn many of the black silk
webbing belts.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-10-13

When joining a bias piece of ma
terial to a straight piece always
keep the bias piece underneath, as
this prevents it from stretching.
Goldsboro weekly argus. [volume] (Goldsboro, N.C.) 1885-1909, 1907-07-18
Light Luncheon. For Hot Days.

Summertime is the season when
light refreshments of some kind are
needed almost every day for little trips
and outings-to entertain casual guests
and for luncheon on days too warm for
heavy foods.
There are many summertime biscuit
and wafer baked by the National Bis
cult Company and packed in packages
that keep out all dampness and dust
OF travel and absolutely preserve the
original oven freshness Of the contents.
Among the most popular of these dain-
ties are Social Tea Biscuit. They are so
appropriate for many different occa-
sions that a few packages in the house
prepares you to serve a light refresh
ment without a moments notice.
Social Tea Biscuit are a real food,
but SO light and unusual that they
tempt the appitite and make welcome
accompaniment to luncheon, dessert,
or dinner-a social cup of tea or cooling
beverage.
Always serve Social Tea Biscuit from
the original package, because then you
are sure that no dust or dampness has
reached them and that you will enjoy
all their original freshness of flavor.
Goldsboro weekly argus. [volume] (Goldsboro, N.C.) 1885-1909, 1907-07-18
A. Good Complexion.

Every young person should be inn
pressed with the truth that a good
complexion depends upon pure blood
and a healthy condition of the stom-
ach. It ,annot be secured by the use
Of outward applications. Hoods
Sarsaparil a gives good complexion
and a fair skin because it makes the
blood rich and pure and tones and
regulates the stomach. Pimples,
blackheads and all similar eruptions
which so disfigure the face are
promptly removed by Hoods Sarsa-
parilla which thoroughly eradicates
Ii fou' taints from the blood.
Goldsboro weekly argus. [volume] (Goldsboro, N.C.) 1885-1909, 1907-07-18
POSTWAR RETIRES.
Fifty Years UninterfuptedIy In The
Service of Uncle Sam.
Special to THE ARGUS.

New York, July 16.-James Delaney
the Oldest letter-carrier in the United
States, retired today after more than
fifty years uninterruptedly in h SER
vice of Uncie Sam.
In his half century of work Delaney
has walked a distance greater than five
times around the world. Many are the
changes he has seen in the postal SER
vice and the methods of mail delivery.
When he first entered the service the
mail carriers received no stated salary.
Instead they received one cent o. eve
ry out-of-town letter delivered.
In 1862 the carriers were first put in
uniform and placed on a salary Of ST. 900
a year. Mr.. Delaney is SO years of age
and for the past few years he has been
a carrier out of station F, at Sd avenue
and 18th street.
Goldsboro weekly argus. [volume] (Goldsboro, N.C.) 1885-1909, 1907-07-18
HANDED A FROZEN LEMON.
Fairbanks Meets "HOdr" Frost In
Oregon.
Special to THE ARGUS.

Portland, Oregon, July 16.-Vice
President Fairbanks is here today, but
a stranger in town would not know it,
if he did not know him and see him.
There is nc demonstration, nor was
any preparations whatever, not even
an entertainment or banquet, inaugu-
rated i'll his honor. In short, the
imam Of ices is e~xperiecinga very cold
frost here.
Goldsboro weekly argus. [volume] (Goldsboro, N.C.) 1885-1909, 1907-07-18
MILK COW FOR sALE-A fine Hol

stein milk COW. Capacity 4 gallons a
day. Now gives 2 IL gallons. Apply
at this Office.
Goldsboro weekly argus. [volume] (Goldsboro, N.C.) 1885-1909, 1907-07-18
POLITICS And POLITICIANS.
Ambitions and Prospects of Men
Strutting and Fretting Their
Hour on the Stage.
(By special wire to THE ARGUs.)

Washington, D. c., July IS.
In view of the present movement in
Maryland to make Senator Whyte
Democratic candidate for governor it is
interesting to recall that it is just thir-
ty-six years since Mr.. Whyte filled the
gubernatorial chair in that State.
The latest political rumor has it that
Mr.. Roosevelt would be pleased to see
Governor Hughes, of New York, NOM
mated for the vice presidency next
year-with Secretary Taft, of course, at
the head OF the ticket.
General Charles r. Brayton, Repub-
lican "boss" of Rhode Island for many
years and member OF the Republican
national committee, has practically
given up his leadership as a result of
the bitter warfare recently waged
against him.
Col. r. P. Williams, former State
treasurer of Missouri and one of the
stalwarte of the "Old Guard" wing of
the Democracy in that State, believes
that Governor Folk is rapidly becom
ing the logical candidate for the Demo-
cratic Presidential nominations.
Joseph v. Graft, Representative in
Congress from the Sixteenth district OF
IIlineis, gave out an interview upon his
recent return from Honolulu n which
he endorsed the candidacy of speaker
Cannon for, President.
The State Committee of the indie
pendence League of massachusetts has
decided to have a full State ticket in
the field this fall.
Supreme Court Justice j. Franklin
Fort is being doomed as the Republi-
can candidate for Governor of New
Jersey next fall.
It took 296 ballots to nominate Scott
Ferris of Lawto as the democratic
candidate TOR Congress from the Fifth
Oklahoma district.
Goldsboro weekly argus. [volume] (Goldsboro, N.C.) 1885-1909, 1907-07-18
TO JAIL FOR CONTEMPT.
Courts Must Be Respected By Grim
inaIS.
Special to The ARGUS.

San Francisco, July 16.-Emil Zim-
mer, vice-president of the Pacific Tele-
phone and Telegraph Company, after
being forced to go on the witness stand
today in the bribery graft investiga-
ton, refused to answer certain ques-
tons.
Judge Lawler, after giving him the
alternative, promptly committed him
to Jail for contempt.
The combination of official grafters
are thus given a wholesome lesson and
must be respected by criminals, even
though millionaires.
Goldsboro weekly argus. [volume] (Goldsboro, N.C.) 1885-1909, 1907-07-18
IN The Q
Coming Of Warm Weather Forces Them Out,
Causing itching, Bdrning Skin Eruptione.

The blood and skin are so closely connected that whatever affects he one has CORES
pondnng feet Oh the other. When the blod is pure. m healthy the ski will be soft
SMOOTH, ad free from Ill erupions; but when the blood becomes infeced with oe
unng and annoying skin disease
The skin is provided with countless pores AMI glands which act as a drainage
through thse little tubes There are other glands that pour out on the skins an oily
substance to keep it soft d piabe otherwSe it would become hard md dry from constant
exposure to wind and sum-. When the blood becomes filled with humors and acids the are
thrown OF through thep pores and glands burning and irritating the skin ad drying u the
oils SO thatu we have note only Acne Eczema, Salt Rheum, ETC., but such dry scy
upions asT letter Psoriasis and kindred oubes