The Washington herald., 1907-02-17
THE SOCIAL CODE.

The Arbiter has been asked by several
TO write a paper on the
general subject Of dress. 1t is difficult
TO discuss in a limited space a subject
so comprehensive. but some hints may
be acceptable The American woman
has been very much discussed by her
foreign sisters because of her extrava-
gance IN dress, and there is good ground
for their criticism. She spends more
upon her clothes than any other woman
in the world. Expresses and queens look
shabby in contrast to American million
airesses. and their Jewels pale before the
gems the rich American wears. a story,
the truth of which can be vouched for. Is
told Of the wife OF an Ambassador at
certain foreign court, whose Queen was
noted for her wonderful pearls, which It
had taken a lifetime TO collect; her col
lection was supposed 10 rival any in ex-
istence. Knowing this, the wife Of the
American Ambassador set her forces TO
work and spent a fabulous sum in hur-
riedly getting together a rival collection,
with the result that at the first court bail
she attended her Jewels made those of
the Queens look mean and small-a tri-
umph. but an unworthy one. No we'll
bred, well-meaning person, with honest
motives and the standing Of her country
at heart, would have shown such bad
taste as TO endeavor 10 outshine the
Queen at a court where her husband was
a. Frgg Sc a
guest at the court to which he is accred-
tied
A safe plan is never TO overdress-that
is. 10 avoid ostentation-and the best rule
one can follow is 20 so dress that her
clothes. OF his clothes. for this applies TO
men as well as women. should create no
comment Some years ago two young
men with much wealth and little Wit, IL
will be inferred from the story that fol-
lows, ran a race TO see who could wear
the most extraordinary waistcoats-that
was in the day when fancy waistcoats
first came out Every day they changed
this article Of apparel. and every day
the wonders" grew. and the most mar
velous confectiOns were paraded by these
empty-headed beauX. 10 the astonish-
ment and amusement Of their associates.
the club. and they became the butt OF the
whole town They are gray-headed men
now, and both OF them have held respOn-
sible positions, but the story of the waist
coats still hangs 10 them, and though
they have long ago outgrown the waist
coats they will never outgrOw the story.
But TO return to one subject. no matter
how wealthy woman is. she should
dress quietly in the morning and in the
street. unless she is driving IN an after
noon when an elaborate costume can be
worn, but II she Is walking and riding in
the cars she should wear a suitable dress
Fancy the commotion that took place in
crowded car the other day when a hand
some young person in a beautiful brown
velvet gown, very much trimmed and
long as to train. made her entrance. Two
or three men arose at once to give her a
seat.
mo. I thank YOU" she said; 7 prefer
standing"
And she stood for a while until an &C
quaintance away at the other end Of the
car espied her. Rising quickly, he rushed
toward her and begged that she would
take his seat. She refused.
But my dear Miss Blank" he said.
why don't you take my seat? You can
not think I would sit while you are stand
ing. What fad is this?"
Then the melancholy story came out,
If I sit down on these rush seats" the
eloquently dressed damsel expIained-and
just then the car stopped and every one
q
gown" And so she stood from r street
to the Teacup Inn, handsome, but an
amusing figure.
This brings to mind another story of a
woman, a very wealthy person. by the
way, who kept dinner party waiting
half an hour the other day. In fact. she
was so late the hostess was about to go
into dinner without her. On arriving she
greeted every one as cordially as though
she had not delayed the feast. but when
pressed by her escort, who was an old
and intimate friend. to tell why she had
so offended, she replied quite frankly:
After / was all dressed, l remembered
the chairs of this house were caned. so
I took off my velvet and put on my crepe
de chine. You know, caned chairs are
death TO velvet. Now come, don't be so
cross; you must admit it was much bet
ter for me TO keep you people idle wait
ing than to ruin a frock that I received
only the other day from Paris.
How stupid and how ill-bred both Incl
dents. Never wear anything that YOU
must think of and look out for. 1t is what
/ is inside of the head. not what is outside
Of the body, that counts.
The first and the most important rule
| regarding dress Is that it should always
be appropriate. and to be brief with in
structions in this regard. woman should
wear in the morning a simple, unostenta-
1 tious costume that does not attract atten-
ton or make her conspicuous It Is per
Missile to wear for formal luncheon the
handsomest street costume her wardrobe
contains. as well as for afternoon visits
teas, and all functions that take place
before dinner. According to rigid ETH
quette no woman should appear in any
! thing but decOllete for dinner and recep-
tons that take place thereafter. This is
the standard for foreign cities, New York.
and Washington. In smaller places differ
eTit standards prevail and no rule can be
given. 1t Is the worst taste in the world
for a woman to dress beyond her means
or to 60 so shabby that her appearance
creates comment One of the most noted
women ever known in Washington. the
| wife OF a distinguished admiral. and Q
/ z