Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-09
MOURNING GOWNS.
Must Be Studied and Smart to Be Cor
rect Now.
BY A, T. ASHAiORE.

By A. T. ASHMORE.
Not to be both smartly and correctly
gowned in mourning is now real breach
Of social etiquette, and materials and trim
mings must today be studied in the most
minute detail In order that no mistake may
be made. There are definite rules as to
the exact period Of mourning for different
relatives, but these laws are frequently
modified or made more stringent to suit
individual cases, for after all the feelings
must be consulted to some extent, although,
sad to relate, black gown is not always
indicative Of real emotion.
For first mourning-that is, when deepest
black is to be worn-there are only a few
materials that are really appropriate, and
these are seen year after year with their
crepe trimmings and are only altered to be
in keeping with the ever changing fash
ions. For the street any dull cloth of
either rough or smooth finish Is correct.
The idea is that no material with a natural
sheen or high finish is in keeping and this
rule Is strictly adhered to save in the furs.
which are naturally glossy. A shiny black
caracul jacket worn with a long crepe veil
may at first seem unsuitable, but 1t would
really be too hard to place a ban on skins.
Crepe might be said to be extremely fash
ionable at the moment for in all-mourning
1t now figures prominently, and Is seen
on many street costumes as well as on the
house gowns for afternoon and evening
wear. In fact, crepe and dull silk, peau
de sole, are the only permissible trimming
for a street dress, for even dull black braid
ing is reserved for the second stage OF
mourning.
For frock that is to be deliberately
trimmed with crepe or crepe embroidery,
crepe de chine and chiffon cloth the
favorite materials, the nets and high fin
ished silks being worn when they can be
frfy, nod lon iv,gt n
Of crepe. Crepe heavily embroidered in silk
seems slightly homogeneous, but 1t is eff
fective and is certainly fashionable just
now. Crepe, however, should be employed
with view to the fitness of things, and as
suredly smart little bows and dainty little
rosettes that would be quite fascinating
trimming in lace or colored ribbon seem
rather ridiculous in dull crepe. The simpler
the ornamentation for mourning gown
the better, and certainly crepe is infinitely
smarter when put on In rather severe
lines.
For lighter mourning. when an evening
robe may be worn, figured and dotted net
and point d'eSprit Is exceedingly pretty and,
for young girls, is one of the few mourning
materials that are suitably youthful. This
net may be trimmed with black lace, with
dull or bright jet, or with velvet or satin
ribbon, according to the period of mourning.
Plain net has always been more or less
in fashion and now the heavier figured de-
signs are exceedingly smart.
In first deep mourning there is supposedly
no call for an evening costume, as natural
ly one must not be seen at any entertain
ment sufficiently formal to demand an even
ing gown. Nevertheless for home use a
severely simple dinner dress of dull crepe
de chine or chiffon trimmed with crepe Is
practically necessary.
Long wraps of crepe are very handsome,
but 1t must be heavily interlined for this
time of year. The crepe is generally made
up with pleated or shirred chiffon to break
the monotony. A short jacket of crepe with
a deep crepe flounce or band on the skirt
makes a smart street costume to be worn
when a long crepe veil is used.
While the little bonnet. with its hope
lessly uncomfortable heavy crepe veil, Is
not seen any more, still the large crepe hat
with veil only in back was too extreme to
remain long in favor. and today a medium
sized hat or toaue of becoming shape,
with the long veil in back. is the correct
thing for deepest mourning.