Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-01
WINTER WAISTCoA1s CUT
CHANGES IN MEMS NECKWEAR
FASHIONS.
Tips on How London Is Dressing
The Next Neck-Notes on Coats.
Worsted and Cheviots in Vogue.
FROM the Haberdasher.

FROM the Haberdasher.
Where the chicken according to pro-
verbal lore) got the ak is where the eyes
of those on the lookout for change IN
English fashions should be concentrated
during the next few months-that Is 10
say on the neck. We seem to be on the
eve of a change which l predicted some
time ago. Waistcoats are going to be cut
lower at the opening. This, In jacket
suits. will not make much difference to
the jacket itself, which will keep to about
its present form. You know that we have
for some time had an ugly custom OF nav
ing the waistcoat show above the top put
ton of the jacket when the latter Is OUT
toned. Consequently, jacket necks nave
been cut disproportionately low. for waist
coats were only made moderately, and not
excessively, high, ANY attempt to nave
them really high would have defeated II
self by the unpleasing effect produced.
Within the next month or two months
by the turn of the yeaE at all events
you will find, think, that no one Will be
wearing a new jacket, made by tailor
of any pretense to fashionable patronage,
In which the waistcoat opening Is not low
enough to keep the neck edge Of the
waistcoat quite out of sight The jacket
itself. except that 1t will be shade
shorter in length, will not vary from this
summers style, and the opening in the
back will still be kept, though 1t will not
need to be SO long.
Neck Openings.
But the neck openings of morning coats
will undergo some change. There Is an
increasing demand that the front of a
morning coat shall be little more artis-
tic in design that it has been in these lat
ter days, when high buttoning has been
so universal, We now consider that there
should be a fair balance between the an
giles above the top and below the last,
button. Compromising on the matter. we
shall, 1 think see skirts made rather
more forward" but not extravagantly
so, and necks little lower and more
the waistcoat openings Of morning coat
suits. 1 speak, to a great extent, OF fu-
ture movements foreshadowed by present
tendencies. Waistcoats, both in tweeds
and coatings, are already cut shade
lower in the neck, but the openings are
kept noticeabIy narrow We haven't taken
the full plunge. We do not always quite
hide the waisteoat of a Jacket. But the
tendency to lower necks in all suits is
awake, and it will have far-reaching In
fluences 1t will for example, without
doubt affect the cut of frock as we'll as
morning coats. Though there is no ques-
ton of balancing the fronts of frock
coats, these cannot resist the trend of the
mode CravatS will likewise De lnnuenced,
as I shall presently show.
First, however, let me finish the dis
cussion of the cut of clothes, and pass on
to a very few remarks on their material,
and then will return to the perturbing
matter of necks. Trousers are being cut
just shade spugger. especially in the
calf. This gives them more taper"
look. 1t is usually spoken of as peg
toppy effect, but we have never really re-
turned to the French, or true peg-top,
style now as obsolete in France, which
gets all it's mems styles from England, as
here) of the eighteen-sixties. But one re-
suit of the slight change which has al
ready shown itself-it really Is very slight
is to call for trining reduction in the
length of the legs
Materials for Jacket Suits.
AS regards material, Nworsteds and chew
lots are the things most used for jacket
suits, and, may add, for overcoats, too;
and the whole tendency is in the direction
of largeness in pattern. No design is too
large for the fashion which will prevail
however, that loud effects are thus pro-
duced, or that such effects will be in the
mode. On the contrary, there could hard
ly be a quieter lot Of stuffs than the
Jacket suitings which are going to sell
largely from now to March. Hardly any
of the patterns are noticeable. The eff
feet, as a rule, is that of mixture con-
tanning indeed many colors and boldly de-
signed, but so admirable in admixture
that nothing stands out, The variety of
color effects is wonderful. About the only
color that is rare in the punches which
the high-class weavers are already max
ing up and sending to the trade is the
much-talked-of green. Plenty Of green
yarn is used, but there are few green eff
fects. The same is true of purple, which
enters into the composition of MANY
worsteds, but is the note of very few.
Overcoats are likely to be holder than
suits; the motor is responsible for this.
and no men wear leather overcoats for
tlfIs sport any more. except chauffeurs.
The only use which I see made of Harris
and other homespuns outside of shooting
suits in the Norfolk style (which are not
so much worn this year, is for automo-
bile overcoats.