davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30

made short or long, is of the finest, and
they certainly are a delightful possession
for any one.
The embroidered linens finished with just
the edge of Irish lace are rather severe.
but extremely smart, and the severe lines
are quite done away with by the full jabot
of lace and lawn that is still fashionable,
while the transparent lace stock collar.
worn with the lingerie waist under the
embroidered coat. also helps to make the
wearer look we'll.
White and black Chantilly lace Jackets
and coats are rather in the nature of the
family heirIoom-the lace shawl, priceless
in value, exquisite in texture and pattern
and most difficult to do anything with
but when any dressmaker. an artist in her
profession, turns out a successful Chantilly
lace coat she gains customers galore from
the exclusive set who delight in the knowl-
edge that the garment they are wearing 10
impossible Of attainment by the world at
large.
The Imitation laces of this description
are such perfect limitations Of the real
lace that 1t hardly seems worth while to
bemoan cruel fate II one has to be salts
fed with the imitation. A fad of the mo-
ment is that only the thinnest and sheer
est Of Innings may be used in the lace coats
of this description-so thin that the lace
must appear to be unlined. 1t is merely as
an adjunct to a superb costume. suggest
ing far more than providing any real
warmth or protection to the wearer.
A fashion Of long ago that IL occasional
ly seen put forward tentatively. perhaps.
is the three-quarter length fitted lace or
embroidered coat with the half-ftting
fronts. The lace is Of the heavier quality.
sofetned by lighter lace ruffles at the
wrists and in the inevitable lace tie or
tabot. These coats are certainly extremely
smart. but require to be worn by a slender
figure to have the desired lines. 30 that the
fashion Is not destined to become too popu-
lar. like the pony and box coats which have
been such a godsend to the world of women
at large. These same pony and box coats
had best be made the most OF. for the
style has been popular and so intensely
popular long enough now to have 1t give
signs of approaching dissolution. For this
summer It will still find favor with the
multitude, for 1t Is SO generally becoming
and Furthermore has by this time been dis
covered to be SO easy a fashion to copy.
besides taking so much less material than
many others Of the present style.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30

successfully to press finished cloth
garment Is an art. and while home dress
makers. by giving plenty of time and
thought to the process. may accomplish
much. 1t is just as well to say at the out
set that the result will not compare with
the finish given by the competent tailor 1t
Is all very well to give written instructions
for this thing for that in which women
are interested or puzzled over. but to prom
Use good results Is another matter. and it
is most unfair to hold out hopes that can
not be realized.
While general rules can be laid down for
guidance. il were asked for practical ad-
vice my reply would be: Press each detail
of the garment. no matter how small, as
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30
Picture Frames
In Cross Stitch

Cross-stitch embroidery and all the other
styles of embroidery which may be done on
canvas have now, to a large extent. taken
the place of the other kinds of embroidery.
All the oldfashioned designs are tremen-
dously popular. and the skill of our great
grandmothers in the creation OF cross stitch
scenes, floral pieces, &C.. is fast being at
tained by the woman whose needlework is
strictly up to date. The most fashionable
handmade photograph frames at present
are those made of cross-stitch on canvas
when landscapes or floral arrangements are
worked out around a space left for the
photograph. Sometimes the photograph Is
placed In the middle and sometimes in or
der not to intrude upon the scene. 1t Is
placed far to side The landscapes
which have been wrought out in cross
stitch are many Of them most elaborate
little houses. trees. deliberately cloudy
skies. &C.. mipgling In one artistic whole.
The tops OF the trees arch gracefully over
the photograph. Cross stitch scenes are
also being made for chairs. The back and
seat piece come together and can be pur-
chased in many designs. those In old-fash-
Toned floral designs being the most popular.
These are done in beautiful soft colors.
that even the new pieces give the harmoni-
GUS color suggestion of the charminsly
faded pieces that have come down to US
from our grandmothers
The designs are also made up for good
sized bags to be used work bags. A
piece of canvas deeper than wide is used
for each side of the bag. This Is filled In
with a solid color and then with flowers or
fruits in brighter hues. Some OF these de-
signs are made up of a number OF small
squares. The bags lined with silk in
deep old fashioned hues. Green. old rose,
old blue sage or plum color are attract
i've. At the top the bags are drawn up
with worsted or silk cords. Many of them
also are sewed over slender wooden poles
and are straight at the top. The poles are
then suspended on cords or ribbons.
The cross-stitch embroideries are also
Being made up for pocketbooks and hand
bags In fact, the additions to the cos
tune which can b made from 1t are in
Vulnerable.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30
CHuTO GOWN WITH -
- FANCY COAT =
F@Eo ~ EE.LJELIEISER

sort of wrap, and yet it must be con-
kimono sleeve indicative Of this years
fashions are very charming in such fab
RIGS as lace or of lace combined with
silk, and the wide satin folds are most
effective in lace: that is, cutting the sleeves
and finishing over the hem Of the coat.
It is contended by the hypercritical that
there Is something almost too neglige about
the present fashions for the loose coats;
that they are too suggestive Of the matinee
or wrapper. but fashion this year has COM
manded that such models be permitted, and
so for the moment they reign supreme. TO
the keen observer however. there are many
signs that other fashions will soon be prom
inent and that the tighter fitting coats and
wraps will be in style once more. In the
meantime, for the woman who can buy when
she chooses and what she chooses. this Is
a veritable gala season. for 1t Is merely
question of selecting what is the most be-
coming from the multitude Of designs that
are submitted for her approval.
X
Irish lace coats with embroidered batiste
medallions are not so new as the heavy
embroidered linens and open work en-
broidery combined with some one OF the
Cluny or heavy fancy laces that are to be
had now in so many different patterns.
The work on these coats. whether they be
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30

dies and the correct cloth for covering the
several boards. Home dressmakers will
probably not be willing to invest in this
supply, and, If not. then they must be con-
tent with the result arising from home
made substitutes. The rolling pin covered
with flannel and cotton cloth Is the old
standby for seams and sleeves, the family
ironing board or the table being the press
ing ground for skirts and the larger gar
ments.
There is nothing new to mention, except
that the outer covering of all should be
of fine texture. otherwise its imprint may
be left upon the article ironed or sponsed.
A hard surface is best for seams; the roll
ing pin is better for pressing darts or cury-
ed seams. The iron should be preferably
long and narrow. but II the family iron
is used then instead of the point the
square end of it will give better results as
the seams will spread themselves evenly
just reverse the iron and press.
The seams Of the cloth garments should
be dampened with a sponge or cloth. and
a thin rag should come between the wooden
material and the iron. If only for the sake
Of caution.
Soft fabrics, such as cashmeres. silks and
the silk and wool mixtures. do not need
over the part to be pressed wrong side. Of
course), being all sufficient. Silk really
should not be pressed. for the heat takes
all the life and body out OF it and leaves
it old and shabby looking. Seams IN SILK
should be treated the same as those joining
velvet the goods being held upward over
the iron one person holding the iron while
the other draws over the fabric. Tucks or
pleats may be pressed In the same way.
the point of the iron being used. the back
of the tuck mot the wrong side of the gar
menD coming in contact with it,
The hem of silk skirt may be pressed
upon a table with a warm iron. taking care
not to let 1t go a fraction of inch above
the hem. A silk coat often has an inter-
lining Of thin crinoline: the seams then re-
Quire very little pressing before adding the
lining proper. A cloth coat, on the con-
trary will need a thorough pressing when
1t reaches this point.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30
Many Buttons on
Seasons Frocks

Rich man. poor man. beggar man, thief,
Doctor. lawyer, Indian chief.
TF the fashionable woman of today were
to try to tell her fortune by the buttons
- on her frock she would find the task a
long and exacting one. for in the decora-
tion OF fashionable summer frocks often
as many as twenty dozen little buttons ara
used. They are sewed on bodces or Jackets
IN various designs which are attractive.
Sometimes a bunch of grapes Is repre-
scented by tiny satin-covered buttons. or
else In varying tones OF lavender. they are
made to look like sprays of lilacs. This
latter Is a most effective decoration for the
soft gray gowns that came with late
spring. II has indeed more style than
embroidery. as the buttons stand up so
prominently from the dress material.
One of the late achievements Of Worth
Is to have deliberately covered a black
satin zouave jacket with tiny black satin
buttons each one showing In its center
silver spangle. This jacket will be worn
with skirt OF gray chiffon cloth. The
cost of such little buttons which can be
ordered in any color. is from to II cents
dozen Among other small buttons that
are noteworthy is a set of six recently
made in Paris. and for which an American
girl paid over $40. Each one was. in truth.
painting on porcelain of famous French
beauty. No shank setting of these bits
of porcelain was visible. The paintings on
them however. had been regularly fired.
30 they might be used cabinet pieces
when no longer desired on a gown. At
present they are placed on quaint little
ispels OF cream-colored satin crossing be-
low the bust of an evening bodice.
II Is. however. the very large buttons
that are most generally in favor for new
frocks Those OF smoked pearl. exquistely
carved. are novel among them. Usually
these buttons sold in pairs. one being
carved so to face the other. An old
rustic peasant may be represented on one.
while from the other his wife looks at him
through an open doorway. Most charming
also are those on which birds. with their
nests and their young are carved. The
cost Of these buttons Is about s. pair.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30

RWY DHETHER or not Dame Fashion
received advance warnings
NAI apropos of the late spring or
wv from the depths of her marvel
Gus knowledge evolved the Idea
that the weather this summer was to be
capricious, certain 1t Is that the fashions
ordained are much more suitable to cool
than to a warm summer, for almost with
out exception there is a wrap for every cos
tune no matter how thin or light may be
its fabric,
Apparently. and fortunately for the ma
5ority of women. the edict went forth long
since that to appear In the street IN skirt
and fancy blouse was extremely bad form
and that waists and skirts to match In
color We're much smarter. while smartest
Of all were the three-piece costumes or
the waist SO constructed that 1t looked
almost more like a wrap than waist. 1t
10 always interesting to note the anachron-
isms. the positive opposites in fashion. At
the present moment the outlines Of the
figure are far more sharply defined than
has been thought fashionable for several
years. and at the same time coats and
waists. princess and empire gowns are all
built on loose and flowing lines.
In truth this Is the veriest epitome Of
art that suggests and at the same time
conceals any too harsh outline. but. then.
II is conceded that the art Of dress Is in
deed an art to be recognized and studied
accordingly
The question of me long, sloping Shout
der seam has apparently been dealt with
satisfactorily. 1t Is by no means be-
coming fashion. but IN these days of clever
dressmaking 1t has been SO well dealt
with that by some magic it now gives
becoming line In waists. coats and wraps.
no matter Of what material they may be
fashioned. And this. as has been said.
applies to the thinnest of fabrics-jetted
net laces. embroidery. Embroidered linen
and silk coats extremely smart this
season. while the endless variety of lace
coats makes it possible for every woman to
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30

the work progresses. and when finished
send 1t to a tailor for final pressing. 1t
will surely pay in the end. AS a matter of
fact. l know a dressmaker. a good one,
too, who pays so cents to a man who makes
a business Of pressing for the final IRON
ing of each skirt and coat she makes. and
finds 1t a saving of time and consequently
money. He, she argues, has all the proper
tools on hand. is stronger. has had more
experience. and Is. in short. master of that
branch Of tailoring. and will give perfect
results in less time than she can accom-
plish poor ones. 1t is good Investment,
too. as her customers are always pleased.
for good pressing will not only improve
the appearance of suit. but will actually
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30

are several new models for these ma
terials. Almost without exception these
coats are long this year again. but this
is~not declaring that the short. fanciful lit
tie jacket wrap Is out of date. On the
contrary. 1t Is thought to be quite as
smart as it ever was, and 1t does not seem
to answer the same purpose the long
garment These may be hard times for
the very rich: the country may be feeling
the effect of last springs slump in Wall
street, but there is no evidence Of it in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30

sewed into a network of black. A deep
border Of yellow lace applique finishes the
coat around the hem. and the wide flowing
sleeves and collarless neck are outlined
with the same lace. This is most fasci-
mating and becoming garment. with the ut
most simplicity of line that seems but to
accentuate the beauty of the materials and
the artistic draping.
The English eyelet embroidery. COM
hined with bands Of Cluny and Irish lace,
may not be a new combination, but there
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30

choose style suited to herself individually.
The only trouble Is that the fashion is so
extremely popular there Is danger Of it's be-
coming too universal to continue really
smart. However. with the fascinating bar
gains that are now to be found in these
same lace jackets, as we'll as the attract
i've models that are exhibited in the ex-
pensive but more exclusive styles. it is
safe to assert the fashion will prevail for
a few months longer.
kk
The three-quarter half-ftting lace coat
is AN intensely becoming style to a tall.
slender woman. and at the same time the
lines can be satisfactorily adapted for a
larger size: only care must be taken to
have sufficient width at the sides. The
modern corset. of course. aims and gener-
ally succeeds in banishng the exaggerated
hip. but there can be no absolute doing
away with all avoirdupois by the aid Of
mere corsets. and the hip measure rather
slender is quite surprising. Consequently
there must be sufficient width in any semi
fitting coat to prevent the too clear defin-
Ing of the hips. Most of the coat backs
are curved in at the waist line or perhaps
1t would be more strictly correct to say
that many are so fashioned, for there Is
still a strong prejudice in favor of the
charmingly becoming style that hangs
loose from the shoulders. yet indicates a
waist line by the imperceptible curve in at
the sides. coat on this order, but long
enough to reach almost to the hem of the
skirt. can be made of white or black lace
or net or Of embroidery or. although this
Is not by any means so new, of pleated
chiffon.
thin lining of chiffon. mousseline de
sole or China silk Is considered the cor
rect lining for these coats, and there Is
really quite little warmth in them, so
that the protection they afford is by no
means imaginary. One of the smartest
and incidentally the most costly of these
coats is made of the finest cut Jet beads
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30


For those who buy them. approaching
the hand work. it is melancholy fact
that they are being initiated for a COM
paratively small sum. Originally they
were reserved for suspender buttons being
placed just above the armpits. At present,
however. they are mostly used to accentu-
ate and hold in place chiffon jabots at the
front of bodices. 1t seems a curious con-
ceit of the French to have reproduced this
season old and valuable coins in the form
of buttons Such, however are very new.
Greek heads. figures and symbols of
Carthage and Syracuse. the Roman wolf
and the Florentine bear. all now are seen
on fashionable buttons. These coin but
tons have now. indeed. replaced the me-
dalton buttons which were general some
time ago. The prettiest coin buttons are
glded. although on some gowns those rep
resenting dull silver are very fetching. For
them all the mat finish Is regarded as good
form. Often. when very old coins are rep
resented. the outline of the buttons is I'M
symmetrical. This, however but adds to
their artistic appearance. Handsome ones
can be bought for from Is cents to 81 and
81 apiece. On the white wool gowns that
are in preparation for summer these gilded
coin buttons look very smart. Naval and
military buttons are now worn only by very
young girls. Very large black Jet buttons
are again In favor. Sometimes they are
made up Of small cut Jets following some
particular design. or again solid piece of
Jet. cut like diamond. forms the button.
Their use is not confined to black gowns.
They are the newest note of white chiffon
bodices. In fact. they reach the pinnacle
of fashion when employed in this way. with
a large jet buckle to match.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30
Chicken Gumbo.

Joint broiler for fricassee. Place
IN a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter
mixed with one tablespoonful of flour, a
little salt. dash Of red pepper and one onion
finely minced. Slightly brown. add slowly
one quart Of tomatoes. sliced. one quart of
okras chopped fine. one teaspoonful of salt:
let boil fifteen minutes. then add the
chicken and cook until the okras are dis
solved and Ee chicken Is tender. Serve
hot.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30

the dress Of the smart women of today,
and certainly there never was time when
such costly clothes were worn. These very
coats Of embroidery and lace are an ex-
ample of 1t, for while imitation laces and
machine embroidery are made up by all
the shops and the leading dressmakers also.
there are no end of women who are wear
ing real lace and hand embroidery as
casually and as a matter Of course. as
though the materials were inexpensive linen
or silk.
Lace and braid are often combined as
trimming on silk, linen or cloth. and this
Is shown to perfection In the coats. 1t
would seem as though women might be
satisfied with lace itself. beautiful in tex
ture or design, but on the contrary it is
considered most desirable to improve (O
upon the lace. to embroider 1t with silk
work and to outline 1t with braid-not the
design itself. but to put the braid in mar
row lines beside the edge of the lace where
it Is sewed on to the material. Jetted,
embroidered and spangled laces seem really
better suited to evening gowns than to any
fessed that as trimming. provided too
much of it is not used, bits of this trim
ming are remarkably effective, but, then,
the workmanship must be Of the best
The wide arm hole and the idealized
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30

Josephine-"Somebody told me yesterday
that I'm the prettiest woman in town"
Natasha-"Tm afraid. Josephine. l shall
never break you of that habit of talking
to yourself '-Shutok. st. Petersburg.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-30

They can. however. be used repeatedly re-
naming beautiful as long as they endure.
Live Oak daily Democrat. (Live Oak, Fla.) 190?-190?, 1907-10-25
The Frank Mayes boomlet for Gov

The Frank M2yes boomlet for Gov
ernor has =. Orked over into Alabama
and tn" Birmingham Age-HeraId,
| one l., the ojase's leading papers,
war 5 to see his elected Live Ga <
De nocrat.
! Now listen 10 that. will You? Boom
! lCc- BoOmle.. Didn't yod start the
ting. Mr.. D>m0cratr Were uot you
father to the thought? And now to
refer 10 it by the disparaging term
OF ''boomlet. We are going to-but
never mind. Wen nominate you for
something some time We may heap
Goals of fire on your head, but we
won't pour cold water on it-never.
-PensacOla Journal.
" Disparagfpg term indeed Perish
the thought. \ We .wrote that little
word, "boomIeG /advisedly. because,
in view of the fact that Editor AIayes
declined the nofnination for which We
so sincerely sJggested him. We didn'5
want his public career hereafter
handicapped by boom that failed.
even though it failedSat his own sug-
gestion. Ave didn't Aant it so that
people could say, "OhA Mayes had
boom for Governor onceA but it didn't
stick; I'VE must look Nelsewhere.
Hence we said "boomlet"Nto suggest
a tentative nomination which no frost
could Kill and might be Withdrawn al
pleasure without injury to the ex-
pertinent or prejudice to future ambi-.
tons Do YOU catch on? And now
VIII you please publicly apologize for
intimating that We could disparage
our own judgment and valued
friend at the same time, as your para
graph suggests. The editor of the
Journal is the logical candidate for
Governor on a prohibition platform.
but as be won't have it, We want to
go on record as saying that he would
make fine candidate for Governor
on any sort Of a platform that good
man anu sood Democrat could
stand on.
Live Oak daily Democrat. (Live Oak, Fla.) 190?-190?, 1907-10-25

In union there is strength In the
Old days when big bank toppIed, the
others got scared, drew in all their
resources, left the weaker ones 10
their fate. and the result was a panic.
But they do itNbetter these days. as
witness the Wah Street furry when
the Knickbocker Trust Company
went down Morgan and the other
big guns OF finance rapied to the help
OF the weaker instituSons that were
honestly managed and inherently
solvent. extended the and necessary
and the result was that \conhdence
was quickly restored, and "a panic
aFerted. 1t was original chaos at the
beginning of things n this Universe.
any way. and We have been slowly
bringing order out of confusion and
improving our methods ever since.
Well get everything right aftrf
W lille
Live Oak daily Democrat. (Live Oak, Fla.) 190?-190?, 1907-10-25

of this seasons crop. Has raised up
wards of five hundred bushels of
corn, has fprty-five meat hogs to
butcher at the proper time, has sold
1853 worth OF beef cattle during the
year and has made potatoes, syrup
and other food drops amply sufficient
to carry him and bis family. Mr.
Bond says. so We are informed, that
his farm this year will pay him an
average of $t25f per mouth Is there
another business of like size which
pans cut as well?"
Live Oak daily Democrat. (Live Oak, Fla.) 190?-190?, 1907-10-25

Our sympathies go out to our boys
straining and painting over the heavy
guns which mount guard at the en-
trance of Pensacola bay. but that's
the way to make soldiers. They
will come hone in. better health
and spirits and better soldiers than
if they had ben to one of the old
time encampments where discipline
was lax and but little was learned.