New-York tribune., 1907-09-09
THE NEW COATS.
Long Garments Made Loose and
Comfortable for AU Occasions.


few years ago the long a badge Of
wealth. II was for the who rode in her
carriage not for the woman who was obliged 10
take her chance with the straphangfng public in
subways and trolley Happily all that IS
changed To-day any woman who can get a long
may II anywhere she chooses. II is a
sensible fashion. for there irnumerabl. women
who often going TO rnattnees and luncheons in
delicate costumes which require be covered from
the dust. and who have not carriages at their
command, or If they have DO not happen to wish 70
use them at the moment. These women find IL
very nice 10 be able long coats. and long
coats OF the Hghtest colors. in public convey
without exciting comment
The long coats which completely covered the
skirt front and back, and had TO be held up with
II, now in the background. The long coats
OF to-day never reach to more than within five or
six inches Of the feet. and many OF them only
trihe below the knees. They are not nearly so
cumbersome. and they protect the gown quite as
well All Of the long coats loose. the
fulness beginning at the shoulders and widening
gradually into sweeping folds AL have large
sleeves Sometimes the sleeves are Of bishop.
sometimes OF japanese shape. but always the arm
holes very wide.
RAINPROoF COVERT
When long coat must do duty for various
occasions. It had better be OF rainproof covert,
rough cheviot serge, in a Scotch mixture effect
Such a should be in dark tint, simply
made and perfectly tailored The very newest
OF this type have deeply pointed yokes. which
look almost like broad collars. and into these the
cores are placed without pleats. those at the
ends Of the long slopng shoulders. and IN the
tre Of the back The smart coat Of to-day gains
its fulness by Of cores that slope gradually
Very little trimming is seen on these coats. but
there is heavy stitching tho deep hem that fin
ishes them all round The sleeves very full.
indeed particularly az the elbow. which gives the
delightfully."- free feeling. Velvet collars and
rather narrow velvet cuffs appear most Of these
dark toned utility coats. and often the buttons
1 velvet covered.
For going to afternoon Iuncheons. bridge parties
receptions. there long coats in serge
broadcloth OF white. pale gray. blue. green and
rose. These built precisely the lines
as are the coat. have velvet cuffs and COL
lars They are fastened with large pearl buttons.
Long for evening wear much more eab-
crate. and any amount Of latitude IS allowed here
IN the matter OF fancy sleeves collars. vests and
trimmings. Very fetching are the Oriental effects
some OF the kimono shaped coats. such
a bands of embroidered bordering edged with
narrow velvet. Velvet ribbon and silk braids are
used e great deal and SC is embroidered silk or
velvet bands
LESS FUR THAN LAST TEAR
Fur is not TO be used as much was last year
and fur borderings Will be rarely seen. II will be
used though 10 edge collars and cuffs and vests.
which is a good thing. because there is where fur
adds the warmth Of a loosely fitting garment
The vests are a great addition the comfort OF
the loose long coats Those used on travelling
coats are Of full length. fitting snugly about the
throat and extending to the waistline- When the
is OF dark serge or broadcoth. velvet Of a
similar tone is used. but It may be lightened by
colored embroidery-or. in lieu Of handwork. SOU
tache braid
some OF these waistcoats are more ornate than
useful On the elaborate coats they short
sometimes barely to cover the bust. and very
low al the throat But what little there is OF
them Is thickly covered with embroidery in silk,
the most expensive garments with pearls
silver gold.
The shower of buttons this season has fallen upon
coats as upon all other garments The big crochet
buttons are popular for the kimono coat, used N
mandarin fashion between the breast and shout
ders The Dlrectoire demands large and very
costly buttons Some OF these Drectoire coat but
tons wholly OF pearls. set upon the foundation
In graduated Others are Of gold, set with
rhinestones. very effective against pale broad
cloths
look. than health Will undoubtedly risk pneu-
monia by wearing coats with the fiat neck finish.
which is quite permissible so far as fashion goes
But the swan-necked woman may revel in the
Medici collar. which in modified form is returning
60 favor and which Is comfortable as IL Is pct-
uresoue and attractive TO the eye Sometimes it
is the chief decoration OF evening coat, rich with
handwork covering the shoulders and extending
halfway to the shoulders. both front and back
POCKETS IN COATS
Signs of the emancipation OF women are evident |
in the pockets which found In these long coats
Not Of course, in the elaborate ones. but in the
pIsiner ones. Place is found for them by making |
an opening over tho hips and finishing IL with an
oblong flap secured by buttons.
Fur
is always satisfactory and fashionable for Innings
Its first cost is certainly more than that Of other
Innings but, the other hand. IL lasts forever, |
nnd can be transferred from garment 70 an |
other year after year. Short fur coats going |
~ come with the and also coats or a
COSTLY now fabric which closely initiates the costly
chipchiIla Very quaint and comfortable they are |
these little fur garments, with their loose double
brea sted fronts and fitted backs. their hish rolling
collars and long. loosely fitting sleeves. Like many
another excellent style. they are the revival OF an
-, .
One beautiful evening coat shown this fall is OF
rose pink pongee lined with white satin and with
the inner edge front trimmed with beading /
of the tiniest rose chenille buttons Tne IuIness
~ the garment begins at the shoulders. where the
pleats are set into the shoulder seams, under the
ornate Medici collar Mandarin sleeves amiaoiy 4
broad bands of embroidery, to match the rose SIX
srabesnues on the rose satin collar On either side
of the front is a huge button, covered with rose |
satin and edged with tiny rose SIX oeaos. more |
.ay.rs hut very effective Is a black oroadciotn |
coat fitting smoothly across the snoulders front
and hack with fulness starting just peio" lhe |
-. Around the bottom Is deep hem, headed |
,rIth two graduated bands OF black velvet, one or
,,hicb ex,ends mart way up the front Bias veiVet /
ha,da rrn from the shoulder to the top OF the /
sIaaIs Fastened down with a large metal button al
ascb ,ont The black velvet vest, whlcn Is snsnty /
ta,pd at ,he throat is trimmed with three rows !
~ white silk soutache and white braid ornaments /
"a adra6 with sable Very full sleeves are gath /
=. noatch the vest Worn with a white tule gown |
,,a,IIetted In gold a black velvet turoan With
rh,,. ostrich plumes this coat 10 most effective