davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times., 1907-02-03

proceeds 10 lace il from the bottom to-
ward the waist. She laCes il closely
and pulls IL down over The hips making
IL as tight there as she can The corset
IS then firmly lifted TO the figure and
does not hart nor Inconvenience her
anywhere because the pressure is upon
the hip bones and pushes the figure up,
IN a natural position, instead Of down
in an unnatural crowding. Beginning
at the waist line. with other ribbons. she
laces toward the top, allowing room for
comfort where the corset presses up on
the lungs. Indeed the new wasp-shaped
corset does not extend upward very far:
its length is downward and its upper
portion is supplemented by all manner
of attractive little devices TO Mt 10 or
improve the figure of the wearer. ae-
eording 10 the kind of gown worn by
her.
The preservation Of the straight front
which is ouly slightly modified from
the old-fashioned straight frOnt-pre-
vents the undulating lines of the news
corset from pressing severely upon the
diaphragm, and SO one may breathe
and move IN the new tiny waists with
far more comfort than was ever OBJ
tainable IN the past. This style of front
adds a trifie TO The breadth Of the waist
line. but by keeping down the front OF
the figure in an accumulation of natures
method. it forces out the hips and pre-
vents a plump woman from looking like
s. pillow tied tightly in the middle and
a slender one from looking like an at
tenuated wasp, which appears from
every point of view
The trouble Is" said a fashionable
dressmaker. $50 many women never will
see that they lose the lines OF grace
when they put on too tight a corset Of
a kind which dips in at the waist line
IN front and gives them the reduced
number of inches which they require
without respect TO the shapeliness be-
low the waist line. They never see
themselves in proflei Il only they
could! They know that they have
squeezed themselves into eighteen inch
es Of waistband and they are salts
fed Such women never realize that
their waists do not appear as small as
they really are because they are so out
OF proportion as TO constantly call at
tentioD 10 the fact. If they would only
The Washington times., 1907-02-03

panels Of chiffon tucked cross wise IA
groups OF pin tucks alternating with in
sertiUns OF lace. Any thin material
either OF the washable order or other
wise, may be effectively made up in this
fashion.
Three embroidered folds cross each
other below a V-shaped lace yoke in
suTplice fashion. band OF ruche lace
overlaps the lower fold above a plain
portion of satin, which extends from
the shoulders down the entire front OF
the dress in a panel which is shaped
small az the waist and Widens as Il con
tinues downward.
1t terminates upon a band OF embroid-
cry around the lower portion OF the
gown. On each side the front and back
Of the princess gown are two panels of
tucked chiffon, alternating with rows OF
lace insertion and bOrdered all around
by the same. These panels widen
toward the lower portion and terminate
upon the embroidered bands around the
skirt In deep points. The lower part Cf
the skirt is trimmed with four wide
bands OF silk and bead embroidery. al
ternating with wide pufings of chiffon.
The trailing gown Is finished with a
hem.
At the neck. which may be left open.
is 6 small yoke and stock OF chiffon.
This may be made of diaphaneus lace,
plain or embroidered OF tucked chiffon.
or net Across its front are three
straps Of black velvet ribbon finished
with tiny bows in the middle
The pulled sleeves are trimmed with
lengthwise insertions Of lace and are
gathered 10 band of embroidery. Three
ruifies cf lace finish the sleeve above
the elbow. This is one Of the least 8if-
ncult of the new princess models With
wasp Walsted effect 10 make at home
and II is model suited 10 many diff
IeTent Kinds OF materials, and may have
panels outlined in braid or embroidery
upon plain goods, IL one fdncies that
Figure q illustrates another princess
empire effect adapted 10 tie wasp wa -.
IL Is made with a panel front. which.
pN the way, IS fagurite ARRANGEMENT Of
such gowns, because il may be SHAPED
IN at the waist line 20 give an en-
phasiZed expression Of narFoWness there
The skirt is made with a circular ef-
feet, rolling in wide. loose box pIeats
around the bottom, which is simply fin
ished with a hem.
A short bOlero bodice is made of elab-
crate silk and bead embroidery, TRIM
The Washington times., 1907-02-03

shapely, more healthy and set as slen-
DER in appearance as the one Of which
her sraudmothers were so proud.
A generation Of athleticism has pro-
duced enlarged. muscular strong waists
which appear fully able 70 support the
weight above them. How 10 reduce the
size of these Is a burning question.
The INST thing done has been 70 cast
aside every superfuOus shred Of mater
ial from the waist line How women
must shlvCr with cold in a skin-tight
garment over a corset laced much
tighter than the skin. and just the thin
nest apology for an undergarment be
meath IT. The wasp-shaDed waist has
been set upon the altar OF beauty and
ever- woman promptly falls down and
Worships H.
First a woman sacrifices her pretty
lingerie. Away with corset covers,
which protected the waist lines OF cor
The Washington times., 1907-02-03

sets. OF with underwear which re-
g-ircd a waisIband, Lower garments
are cuHuingly attached 10 the thiunest
of chemisCs without any walstband
whatever Petucoats are reduced 10 the
merest hat lIns az the top, or attached
10 a shOrt-waisted corset cover which
terminates just below the bust with
fitted skirt top 10 the hips. Many
skirts are attached 10 the lower edges
! OF the corset by patent fasteners OF one
sort or another. always fiat. OF course,
for the form OF the sylph disappears
only In the furbelOWs about the knees.
The athletic woman. who has reigned
for many seasons past, rejoicing in an
absolute Indifference to waist lines and
wearing all the pretty garments. with
ribbon-run Wristbands that she pleased,
cheerfulIy reflects that since she must
reduce her waist measurements at least
her loss in the way OF clothing is COM
pcnsated for in not being under the ne
/ cessIty TO run ribbons through any
more embroidered belts.
Women also wear their corsets on top
OF all the underwear ana skirts they
may happen TO put on, with the single
| exception of the dress skirt. The result
| is a wonderful reduction in the size
OF the waist
Then. too, the woman who would be
well goWned now takes a vivid interest
! IN her corset She has learned that .he
| appearance oS the waist and her own
comfort depend entirely upon the man
ner in which this is laced
The best OF the new style corsets have
a long straight front and cover the en-
tire hips. as coTsets have never done
before They dip in well IT the sides
and deeply in the back, and must be
very well made. indeed, TO preserve a
proper form. Women cannot afford 20
wear Inexpensive corsets. Economic
on every article Of attire, by all means.
but spend enough 10 have well-made,
wen-hJting cOrsets.
The intelligent woman goes about get
ting a slender waist in the following
manner: First she buys the kind of
corsets described. and its actual waist
measurement viii be a trifie larger than
she could squeeze into in some other
make. Then she puts it on bit higher
I'D than it is Intended TO be worn and
The Washington times., 1907-02-03

- HE wasp-shaped waist contIonJs
the fashionable woman Of today.
Together with its faseiuauons the
foIIies Of the French Empire are
revived Ia dress. Women aim TO COM
press and repress themselves into "a
figure remarkable for the extreme at
tenuatiOn of the waist line aud-uuless
most artfully plauued-the wasp-shaped
shape OF the figure above and below IT,
The wasp-shaped waist. as produced
by old-time or cheap corsets, is truly
Wasp-sAaped in form. IT effects "a
shapeless rOJundiJy below the waist
which increases the more the waist Is
compressed and which, if the fashion Is
persisted in FOR any length of time, re-
mains permanent
The modern woman, wiser than her
sisters OF "a generation ago, knows this
She has planned a wasp-shaped waist
which viii be more sylphlize, more
The Washington times., 1907-02-03

med around the bottom with a wide
band embroidered IL a different pattern
from that upon the Jacket. Similar en-
broidery finishes an upper band which
continues down both front and back.
ending In shaped panels, which termi-
nate IN points al the waist line A yoke
Of transparent lace has around il
border OF embroidery IN which gilt
threads and golden tissue are intro
duced. A pulled sleeve Of lace has two
lace rufhes above the elbow, which
almost conceal an embroidered band az
the termination Of the pun.
Copyright. 1867. b. " r. Hearst)
The Washington times., 1907-02-03

ne OOT3eI Is WOTn OuIsldc
All the Underclothing Except the
Skirt to Increase the Wearer's
Slendeness.
The Intelligent Woman Who Wants
the New Wasp Waist So Fits Her
Corsets to the Figure That the Pres
sure Is Upon the Elip-Bones. and
Pushes the Figure Up. She Laces
it From the Bottom Toward the
Waist. Beginning AT the Waist Line.
with Other Ribbons. She Laces To-
ward the Top. as Illustrated From the
Lower AA. to the Upper AA.
The Washington times., 1907-02-03
FIGURE 8.

FIGURE q.
Princess Gown With Panels Of
Tucked Chiffon to Aeesntuats the
New Wasp Waist,
The Washington times., 1907-02-03

/ PRODUCTION Of .and craze for striped
dress material, and those with striped
effects in aim Ist plain or figured fabrics
Fne darker stripes. for instance. are
brought tOg ther. or else close together
al the waist line. reducing the apparent
size OF the waist. Stripes, too. arc cur
10 form points above and below the
waist. a method which also tends 10 i'm
part q slender waist effect.
The gown shown IN hgure B. Tor In
stance. shows how striped effects are
introduced 10 imDart a slender waist
appearance. The gown is a princess.
made Of liberty satin. alternating with
The Washington times., 1907-02-03
FIGURE C.

FIGURE c.
Modified Empire Gown With Panel
Front to Emphasize Narrowness Of
Waist Front.
The Washington times., 1907-02-03

he ew Cor.
Get With Long
Straight Fro n Z
and Covering the
Hips as Never
before 20 Make
the Waist Look
Slender.
The Washington times., 1907-02-03

Copyright. 1907 By ". p. Hsarst)
New-York tribune., 1907-08-25
BORROWS AUTOMOBILE.
Bicycle Policeman Catches Speeder
by Using AnOther Car.

Borrowing one automobile to chase another Whfcn
was exceeding the speed limit. Bicycle POlcernan
White overhauled, after a chase OF mile yester-
day. a machine belonging to Joseph Matheis and
arrested the driver. Many complaints nave come
10 Inspector Thompson recently from the house
holders on So. Nicholas avenue about the reckless
driving in that thoroughfare. and he had severai
Of his men at places along the avenue to see that
1t stopped.
White was standing IN the avenue near 12oth
street when the Matheis car. driven by Alfred
Denzhres. came along at rate that the police-
man believes was at least twenty-five miles an
hour White gave chase and was gaining on II
when at I16th street he struck an obstacle and
smashed the frame of his bicycle Some one
called from an automobile that was passing:
Jump I'm and we will give you lift
White Jumped in and the chase continued The
cars turned into Central Park West at 10th street
At s1st pursuers overlook the autornoole
it taken back to 125th street station where
a charge of reckless driving was made against the
chauffeur He was held In 500 bail Mathels
and his friends in the car could raise only soo SO
ABE" Gruber was sent for. and he got the chauf-
feur out.
Two other arrests were made a result of the
extra care that taken on the avenue yester-
day. They Bernard Lynch. of No. 3oe West
Goth STREET and George Mcdaniel, of No. 13l Edge
comb
New-York tribune., 1907-08-25
MISS M. P. ROOT DIES FROM INJURIES
Was Victim of Collision Between Auto and
Train Near Great Darlington.
rBv Telephone TO The Tribune. ]


BRISTOL Conn. Aug 24-Miss Mary p. Root
aied to-day at Pittsheld. Mass. from the IN
iuries received last Sunday in the automobile
accident at Ashley Falls. near Great harrington.
which now has wiped out nearly the last OF the
famous Root family of Connecticut. Only Miss
Roots fourteen year-old niece. Catherine, and
her father are left.
Ever since the racing automobile and the ex-
press train came together no hope has been en-
tertained for Miss Roots recovery. She was so
badIy injured that she did not recover conscious
ness before her death came at 8 o'clock Tonight
Miss Root who was fifty years old. was gradu-
ated from vassar in 1878. and was president OF
the yassar College AlumnR Association. She
WAS well known for her work along historical
and patriotic lines. She wrote much for the
Daughters OF the American Revolution. Of which
she was a member, her literary work including
biograph of leading members of the Revoiu-
tionary families, history Of Catherine Gailord
Chapter Of the Daughters Of the American Revo-
luton. and other works Of that character.
New-York tribune., 1907-08-25
INEW YORK THEATRE OPEN
"4dUanced TaudesaUe" Is Offered
Here for the First Time.

The long talked OF advanced vaudeville" favor
ite idea of Klaw & Erlanger. was offered for the
first time last night at the New York Theatre.
which opened for the season Of 1S0-oS as the per-
rnanent in this city of that form of entertain
ment.
AS already described in The Tribune. this house
has been rearranged and decorated. The lounsins
room, where the Augustin DAILY collection OF paint
fngs is hung. and the concert garden were visited
by the audience in the intermission.
Although a group of Russian entertainers headed
the bill. the Begganys. acrobats from the Winter
Garden at Berlin. appeared first They were fol-
lowed by Miss Grace Hazard who has been seen
at other vaudeville houses in the city IN her 1--WE
feet OF comic opera The Russian singers were
next then csme George Fuller Golden. who told
stories and made some comments on popular topics
after a style that found favor with the audience
Before the intermission a group of English enter
taners gave a grotesque sketch of a London fire
brigade. This one of the new diversions which
in English music halls is known as a 'pantomme
This. too pleased the audience
Others the bill the Six Musical Cuttys,
George Evans. "the Honey Boy" and Spanish
dancers In "A Fete Night in Seville La Esmer-
aida described 1.-The famous Spanish dancer,
feature of this part of the entertainment
New-York tribune., 1907-08-25
DAVIS DEPLoRED DEATH OF LINCOLN.
Renaissance of Daughter in Denver After
Posting of Copy of Old Proclamation.

Colorado Springs. Col, Aug 24-When Mrs
Margaret Howell Jefferson Davis Hayes. daugh
ter of the President of the Confederacy. learned
that member. of the 10th Pennsylvania Cav
airy. attending the reunion here. had hung upon
the walls of the Antlers Hotel copy OF the OLD
proclamation Offering reward of S360,0oO for
the arrest OF her father and other Confederate
leaders for alleged completely in the assassina-
tion Of President Lincoln she Immediately
raised protest 10 General William j. Palmer.
the host of the reunion.
Before her protest had been received. however,
General Palmer had heard of the proclamation
and ordered TINT it be taken down. out of def
erence to Mrs. Hayes. who is the wife Of j. A
Hayes a banker In Colorado Springs
81 was small child at that time," Mrs Hayes
wrote and like most Southern children. L
looked upon Lincoln the arch-enemy of my
country AS the servants and guards around US
were thoughtlessly rejoicing at his assasslna-
ton ran to my father with what / supposed
would be good news 10 him. He gravely ana
gently took in his arms and explained to me
that this terrible deed done by crazy ma n'
who 10 doubt thought he was the savior or the
South. but really her worst enemy.
Always remember. my little daughter, no
wrong can make right he said. The
South does not wish her rights 10 come through
dastardly murders, but through fair fights
Then he sighed heavily, and said:
This is the heaviest blow that could have
been dealt TO the Southern cause. Lincoln was
a Just man. and would have been fair and gen.
erous in his treatment of the Southern people.
His successor Is q man can expect nothing
from
New-York tribune., 1907-08-25
OBITUARY.
AMI SMITH.

Washington, Aug. 24-Amzi Smith. for forty-three
years connected with the document room or the
United States Senate and for many years IN charse
of it. died here tonight from typhoid fever sixty
four years old. Mr.. Smith was known by every
public man whose business took him TO the United
States Capitol the last generation. and he rae
a remarkable memory both for faces and for rhe
ndices of public bills documents, reports and ex-
sc,,ve communications which annually found their
way into both houses of Congress II took MIN
but moment to indicate where any public docu-
ment could be found in the vast storehouse over
which he presided. Senator George, OF Mississippi,
once said him:
You might burn up all the indices in the Senate
Amzi and you would be all right
New-York tribune., 1907-08-25
JEWELRY DISAPPEARS AFTER FIRE.
Poillon Sisters Accuse Insurance Patrol Men
of Taking 1t.

Following a fire which occurred in the King Ed
ward Hotel. 9Th street. between Sixth and
Seventh avenues. Thursday night. the Poillon sis
ters including Kathryn who sued w Gould Bro
kaw who have n there directly under the
tenth floor, in which the fire started. complained
to the police last night that 500 worth of tewelry
which had been in their room. had disappeared
and they accused the fire insurance patrol men OF
having something 10 do with the disappearance
Rumors around the hotel yesterday had il that
part OF the missing tewelry had been found scat
tered about the hotel. but tho manager or the
hotel and the two women both asserted that no
part OF the jewelry had been recovered
They said that the valuabies consisted OF Two
pearl necklaces a diamond ring and a diamond
brooch and said that in the commotion attending
the fire several of the OF the insurance patrol
had been through their room. and that after that
they had missed the jewels
New-York tribune., 1907-08-25
COADJUToR BISHOP OF SAN FRANCISCO.
The Rev. DR.. Edward Hanna, of Rochester
l. Appointed, Relatives Report.

New Haven Aug 24-A message was re-
ceived by Mrs. Thomas w. Corbett of this city,
to-day from relatives in Rochester. that the
Rev. DR.. Edward Hanna. OF that city, had
been elevated TO the office of coadjuor bishop Of
San Francisco. to succeed the late Bishop
Montgomery.
DR. Hanna is of the youngest bishops in
the country. He is a native of Rochester, and
was graduated from the American College at
Rome. He is well known here. as many rela-
tives live in New Haven.
II is pointed out in church circles here that
when the Rev. Thomas j. Conaty, then of Holy
Cross College. became Bishop of Los Angeles. II
was generally understood that DIR. Hanna would
In course Of time become coadjutor bishop Of
San Francisco. with the right of succession.
New-York tribune., 1907-08-25
CORPORAL ANTONIDES DEAD.
Congress Voted to Give Him Medal for Saw
ing a Comrades Life

George A. Antonides. a corporal in Company K.
23d Regiment of Brooklyn. TO whom Congress voted
n medal for bravery died last Thursday night
from heart disease the home of his mother. Mrs
Christina L. Antonides. No. 3Si Hancock street
Corporal Artonides. then private saved com
-aae from drowning when the company in
camp at Amityville. Long Island. The water was
so rough that he could not swim to the shore. and
held the man above until life savers came TO
his assistance AS a recognition OF his bravery the
company elected Private Antonides to the rank OF
lance corporal and Congress awarded the medal
cornoraJ Antontdes was twenty-five years old
He was an athlete and held the championship Of
the regiment at tennis His fatal Illness was due
TO entertaining The funeral win take place to
New-York tribune., 1907-08-25
"THE MERRY WIDOW" COMING.

II was announced yesterday that the first per-
formance of THE Merry Widow" in this country
would take place on September g at Syracuse. and
the first performance in New York on October 81
at the New Amsterdam Theatre Rehca-sais will
begin at the Garden Theatre tomorrow morning
Louis 2. Gottschalk will be the conductor.
Six French modistes will arrive in this country
q. the end OF the week to assist In the fitting and
finishing of the costumes which will be used in
MIR. Savage's production. Among those engaged
for the play Miss Ethel Jackson. Miss Estee
Bloomfield Willy Saville. Louis Mintz. Robert Z.
Graham. Charles Meakns. Frank Casey. Frances
Cameron, William Mayer. F. J. Mccarthy, Miss
Margaret Dalrympla. Miss Aurora Piatt, Miss
Marion Armstrong, Miss Jane Murray, Miss
Therese Van Bruno. Miss Name Dawes, Miss Creole
Creagh. Miss Eta Duryea- Miss Portia Belmar,
Miss MAY Wilson and Miss Clara TIchenor.
New-York tribune., 1907-08-25
BOGUS POLICE BADGE DIDN'T HELP.
Prisoner Accused of Forgery Now Faces Ad-
ditional Charge.

Charged with having signed the name OF
Francis G. Brown. lawyer of No. 309 Broad
way TO a check on the Title Guarantee and
Trust Company for IS. Henry c. koeting'
clerk. who gave his address as No 169 Rogers
avenue. Brooklyn. arrested last night and
locked up.
According TO the police the prisoner had in
his possession a nickel badge, bearing the words
"Oficer 169. Commissioners Office" He is al
legged to have shown this badge when Detectives
Finley and Arnold arrested him. He said that
ne belonged to the special staff of the Third
Deputy Police Commissioner.
An additional charge of having bogus badge
in his possession will be lodged against him
New-York tribune., 1907-08-25
ENTOMBED MINERS GIVEN UP.
All Hope of Rescuing Four Men Alive from
Coal Nine Abandoned

Wilkes Barre. Penn Aug. 24-An hope
of rescuing alive John Koenig. Joseph Groeg-
Ter, James O'Boyle and Peter Flynn. the four
tmbermen entombed in No. IA tunnel at Port
Blanchard near Pittston, Thursday last
has now been abandoned. The work OF rescue
continues slowly, owing to the difficulties or
going through the fall of rock and coal 1t
may take a day. and possibly week, before
they can be reached.
One Of the four shut behind the hun
dreds of tons of debris heard groaning at
an early hour this morning. but since then not
a sound has come from beyond the cave-in.
New-York tribune., 1907-08-25
coFF1Ns FOR MIR. AND MRS. MKINLEY.
New Ones Being Made to Hold Their Bodies
in the New Memorial.

Springfield. Ohio, Aug 23-The bodies Of
President and Mrs. Mckinley to rest per-
manently in especially made bronze cofins.
The Memorial Commission has decided that the
receptacles which now hold the bodies should
be replaced by others of more enduring char
acter when they are laid in the new mauso-
leum.
The collins will be Theoretically sealed.
and are TO be simple, but among the finest ever
constructed. The work of making them has
been assigned 10 a local firm. The element of
cost will not be allowed enter into their
construction. but they will be in keeping with
the other features of the Mckinley memorial
TO be dedicated at Canton, September 80.