The daily morning journal and courier., 1907-11-27
SOME OF TIE AEV
 FASHION POINTS The Revival of the Once Popular Evening
 Blouse. NOVEL COMBINATIONS The Embroidered Waist With Lace Is In
 High Favor.

UT course there isn't really any
 thing new under the sun, not even in
 the sartorial line, but some designs
 that have recently been evolved by
 the fashion makers show good many
 features that most of us won't re-
 member to have seen, at least not in these particular combinations.
 First, there is the "Bedouin" skirt
 Why "Bedouin" no one seems to
 know. but if its name Is not sugges-
 tive, it is just as charming. It is fash toned of cloth, always that of soft,
 pliable texture, or else of some one of
 the chiffon varieties of velvet. Silk has
 not the desired qualifications. There are nine breadths, each twenty-seven inches at the bottom and twenty-sev-
 en inches as far as the hip line, or about nine inches from the top At
 that point eac hbreadth is abruptly slanted on either sire equally, so that 1 when the breadths are sewed together
 the top portion is inclined toward the
 shape of the hips, but with a sharp point in the seam at the hip line. From that point the surplus material
 at each seam is folded back in nice
 ly shaped V--the top having been first
 scanned, and finished with machine stitching, and sometimes an ornament
 of some sort The fulness below forms
 a kilted effect around the skirt to the back seam, and there a full half-yard | is left free where the skirt is put into binding This extra material is
 carefully arranged in jabot effect, the lower edge being cut to fall in line with the rest of the skirt It is a
 complicated model, and one difficult of description, but in appearance it is
 exceedingly simple and very graceful
 It was recently reproduced for a
 trousseau gown in burnt umber faced
 cloth-and was topped with duaint fichu waist that was fearfully and
 wonderfully made, with cloth of the
 same shade precisely, richly embroid- cred velvet, also of the same shade; land touch of dull gold braid to re- lieve it. There was guimpe of ap- l plique, then the embroidered cloth, livery wide on the shoulders, so that It fell almost to the elbows, was crossed back and front The cloth, however,
 of the overlapping portion ended just I over the shoulder In the back with
 three scallops, which were applied to three strips of velvet. The velvet pieces were then brought down snugly to the waist and around to the front meeting the end of the embroidered ! cloth from the other side where the two were fashioned Into a rosette.
 | Some of the new costumes show l weird plaided effects in faded colors l made up with simple tailored coats, ih which vest is of the plaid, or with
 very Frenchy little jackets of velvet I deliberately trimmed with passemente- | rie motifs or with fancy gallon. The
 sleeves of these coats are slashed up l the back for several inches, or else turn back to disclose long full rufles
 of lace. In absolute contrast to this istyle, quite as often one will see vel
 vet skirts accompanied with cloth
 coats always matching the shade pre- l cisely. The smartest of these coats is in military design closing straight up
 the front and ornamehted in military effect either with frogs or with bands
 of silk. Italian blue broadcloth and
 velvet is a flveIite for this style, as the color itself emphasizes the milf
 tary effect, which is one of the most
 telling features of the seasons styles
 Even fur coats are cut on the lone
 straight but always graceful lines of the military, and decorated with braid
 and buttons, while for fur cloths there lreaIy is no model more in favor
 Naturally enough, the military style
 is for Q fine, straight, well-poised fig lure only, and exceptional care should
 be given the tailoring of the garment
 lcut on these lines, Another odd lit. tie note of popular fashion is struck In the coatees made of cloth or o, some sheer material of one color lait
 over a foundation of another, ant
 braided all over with silk soutache These are. cut hip length, tight-httini
 and either buttoned straight up thu { front or cut away in a direct sian from the bust, in which case the.
 slew a pretty lace waist beneath. No [ all of these coats thht are of 8 con trasting material or color are short On u, contrary, tre long ones ar considered much smarter, ultra smart in fact, which will detraet from thei virtue for the conservative. The are not in any instance to be nis 1 taken for the separate coat-that is, coat to be worn with various dresse but belong distinctly to iRdividus skirts. A very handsome model wa in black, the skirt of glossy broad lcloth and the three-q quarter lengt Icoat, tight and perfect fitting of ve z vet, with a vest of Oriental embroie cry; while another model command ing equal attention reversed the ordt { win a long sweeping skirt of velv' ! and a coat of broadcloth In spite { he fact that beautiful soft rich fs [ brics ars characteristic of the season ! offerings. very smart costumes al made of rough woollens and these, tc 1 not alone for tailored suits, but f' / dressy afternoon gowns.
 I They are so heavy that they al generalIv Intended for wear with on { the furs and no wrap. One model 4 this order consisted of a mahogai wool-a regular rough and read! 1 material with tiny hecks of hla \ scattered through it. The skirt VI 1 circular gored, turned a three-ln' hem around the bottom, the top ' which wss bordered with 1ynx-ju line of lt The bodice was f1tt