The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1907-08-17
Indicate fall STYLES
MIDSUMMER COSTUMES
Descriptions of Some of the
Choicest Creations
of the Year.

Midsummer costumes always show
the daintiest, most attractive designs
OF the whole year, and this season is
no exception. AT the beach and noun
tain resorts, and even right here in
the city, which is unusually well filled
with visitors taking advantage of the
cool weather, beautiful creations of
linens, thin silks, mulls, mousselines,
and batistes are in evidence. But the
most Interesting point about them is
that they show indications of the COM
ing fall styles.
In the linen suits which are, some
how, smarter than they ever have been
Or is it that the woman of 1907 wears
her clothes with a more distinguished
Arrive have the most delightful ex-
amples of semi-tailored effects, and
semi-tailoring Is going to be the pre-
dominant feature of the modes of the
too fast approaching season. The lat
est suits, that is, those which are be-
ing turned out at the last moment, are
two-thirds length, semi-ftted back,
with just the merest suggestion of a
raised waist line-it is no longer term
ed "Empire"-and while its lines are
all very long and severe, there are
fascinating fancy touches added every
where-braids put on in either simple
ornate designs, applique figures, strap
pings, velvet in bindings, pipings, and
| ii settings, and buttons. 1t win be ''who
has not buttons" this year" this year.
The question over which everyone is
cogitating is ARE the Japanese effects
to be retained? and the answer IS,
Eyes" in coats and very dressy cos
tunes. But, generally speaking all of
the Oriental features which have DOM
mated us so completely the past sea-
sen, will be greatly modified and so
merged into other designs as to be
scarcely recognizable as in a class by
themselves. The mandarin sleeve and
the kimono win be preserved, the for
mer as an undersleeve and the latter
more as a sleeve cap for outer wraps,
while the kimono effect is further sug-
gested in the increased use Of the stole
effects, of which many variations will
be seen. Even with the long sleeve
and by the time we are we'll into the
fall season a short sleevd coat will ap-
pear wholly out of date--the upper part
Is frequently draped over the shoulder,
plainly suggesting the kimono sleeve;
and another equally marked inference
may be CLEANED from the full shoulder
arm, taDering toward the wrist.
One of the recent importatlons was
nlouse-colored linen of real Irish
weave. The skirt was fashioned with
seam down the center Of wide box
palt and the rest of the material in
box plaits of half the width, meeting
ee oh other around the skirt to the back
which had the wide-seamed plat like
the front, the opening being under
reath. The only trimming was single
row Of narrow linen braid, ending in
conventional figure of the box plat
| The coat was given a box front. which
was finished with a shaped collar Of
stitched linen from which shoulder tabs
were cut in one with the sleeves, and
also from which branched long stole
ends, attached and used as outside
facing for the front edges.
At the underarm seams q box plat
was let in, and the fronts and backs,
nicely maehne-stitched, overlapped
them, decorated with three pearl but
tons caught through loops Of braid.
| The sleeves show real novelty Their
general outline is a small leg-o'-mut-
ton but, while the top of the sleeve
is straight, it Is caught in three deep
tucks which graduate abruptly to mere
points at the sides, which gives an eff
feet of gathers underneath. From the
elbow, or, perhaps, just below it, the
sleeve is quite close-fitting. The shap-
ed piece around the neck Is decorated
with groups Of buttons and loops, and
| three others finish the front. The fact
that velvet will be an important fac
| tor this fall 81 demonstrated in It's use
already in combination with summer
fabrics, especially in tailored gar
ments, and the strange part of it all
is that the combination does not strike
one as homogeneous.
| A Newport woman, who has the
meme of being always correctly dress
ed, has a stunning linen suit which
she sometimes wears for travelling.
| The skirt is rather above angle length,
is side-plaited with very narrow
| front panel, and boasts no decoration
whatever except two rows Of machine
stitching. Topping it is a four-button
cutaway, bound all around with the
rarrowest possible piping of brown vel
vet, the suit color being of the nat
| ural linen shade. The neck Is cut to a
deep point and finished with a narrow
| shawl collar of velvet, and the side
seams are outlined with velvet, the line
continuing down the front and around
| the bottom three inches above the low-
er edge. The sleeves are rather full
at the armsides, the frllness being
brought into plaits, but they taper
abruptly and form the close-fit-
| ting waist of the other model.
1t is not, however. alone the tailored
costumes that hint to us of fall in
rovations. Some of the ARREST crea-
items are most plainly Indicative, al