Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-15
BLOUSE MATERIALS.
striped and Dotted Flannel, With
Borders for Waists


Printed tlannels with solid borders are
largely used in the construction of the
newest fall waists. and some charming
effects are made in these attractive goods.
! White grounds show dots and borders
IN blues. greens. reds and browns. 9th
ers are printed in Persian or oriental d.
signs, Enclosed by border echoiny the
prevailing shade of the coloring /, in
| closes
Small patterns in black and dark blue
display themselves on tinted backgrounds
and the conventional heur de lis, very
popular design. is produced In a variety
of colors on both cream and light colored
! surfaces.
One of the newest models in flannel
waists is the square yoke. the goods so
arranged that the border comes at the
| lower edge and down the front edges to
the waist line. The corners of the border
are inferred then neatly joined. and the
material is tucked or rather pleated to
| the lower edge of the yoke Correctly
arranged. the fronts below the yoke will
suggest development from the corners
Of bordered handkerchief.
! The sleeves are bishops. and just obovs
the elbow are trimmed with the border
going around the arms and then rushing
! up to the armholes. carrying out the effect
of the waist. The best result is obtained
! If this horder-on the sleeves-is set on a
/ little below the lower edge of the yoke.
Another design shows the border as an
| outline to yoke cut in deep points over
the bust, the trimming running up to the
| neck, the lower portion of waist being
! quite full and pleated to the yoke. The
sleeves affect the deep point. the border
going up to the shoulder seam. and the
! whole suggesting a short coatee or bolero,
arranged over full waist.
| This style would be especially becoming
for slight figure or one particularly long
WASTED. The border could be made in
vertical stripes from neck to belt, tuck
ing the goods to yoke depth between for
the short. stout woman.
Some of the holder patterns in fannels
are extremely attractive. but should only
be worn by tall, slender figure. This
type may adopt any STYLE that suits her
fancy and lool. well In it, while the ex-
actly opposite style o. figure is the one
who must exercise the greatest precau-
ton in selecting waists
For those who prefer the palmer fam
nels there are very pretty stripes in two
or more colorngs. dainty pinks, mauves
and blues alternating with cream, brown
and dark green, the stripes in all widths
from a hair line to those measuring half
an inch or more.
Checks and pla.ds are also represented
In these fabrics, and one of the prettiest
coorings in the former class is a pale tan
checked with cream and then fecked
with dashes of golden tan. A waist Of
this flannel should be made up in tailored
style, the box pleat piped or trimmed
with a little frill of brown ribbon knife
pleated. the tie of brown to match and
the fullness confined by a brown suede
belt. Cuffs could match the front pleat,
and the collar might be of white linen,
stiff.
Stripes are sometimes made up to affect
| a point down center front. the seam COW
cred with a double box pleat of the flannel
cut on the bias. In this case no trim
ming tbeyond buttons) of any kind is
necessary. the arrangement of the stripes
providing agreeable relief. The sleeves
are cut on the straight of the goods and
are taken into pointed cuffs.
When the stripes are quite wide the
effect is better if the waist is made on the
straight up and down, tucking pleating
to form yoke and so bringing the stripes
closer together. The sleeves iE every
case are primarily in bishop style. Any
other effects are only brought about by
means of trimming. in the case of the
bordered goods. Plainly tailored stocks
and leather or kid belts are the accesso-
ries of flannel awists.
Cotton cheviOt is u good substitute for
flannel wasting if the latter is thought
too expensive. This material cut on the
bias in checks or piaids makes up into
smart, practical waists for business wear
ders stitched to yoke depth and folded 10
the waist line. The closing would be
down the front under box pleat deco
rated with small fiat gilt buttons.
The bishop sleeves should be cut on the
straight of the goods. and SO should the
cuffs and the box pleat.
To give character to the garment edge
the two latter with Il half-inch wide band
of gray wash ribbon, or a fancy braid,
some shades darker than the gray in the
check.
The same effect carried out in blues and
in browns would be equally successful.
These colors are entirely appropriate fur
office wear
Cotton wolfe is thinner than cotton
cheviot and is about the same price. This,
too, is a good material for waists when
only a light weight is desired. French
flannes vary in price from % cents up to
81 yard, while a very good quality for
cotton wolfe cotton cheviot may be
bought as low as p cents yard.
Three yards thirty-two inches wide and
three and one-half yards when the ma
terial only measures twenty-seven inches
In width will be sufficient for one waist