Evening star., 1907-08-31

collars the best effects are obtained not by
using coarse, heavy material, but by taking
a double layer OF a fine quality Of linen.
Stamp the outer piece before the two pieces
are basted together. and then be careful to
lay one portion on the other very evenly
and smoothly. In the embroidering. par
ticularly in the doing of open or eyelet
work. 1t is far better always to begin with
the inner parts Of the design. leaving the
edge until all the rest OF the needework has
been completed. the reason for this being
that. If in the embroidering Of the inner
part the linen has been even slightly pulled
the outer edges of the collar may be ripped
apart and carefully rebasted until every
thing lies smooth and straight again
Rainy Day Suits.
The woman who wears an old. shabby
gown on rainy day is not fashionable this
season. for there come pretty pavement
gray tweeds and thin novelty suitings spe-
cially for the purpose They can be made
up into the nattiest little suits, and, as cold
weather approaches. the coat can be cut
double breasted and buttoned with big fiat
horn buttons.
There are utility suits of pongee that are
not really intended for the rain. but for
general wear and for tramping both in town
and in the mountains. A lovely dress Of
this variety is made of golden brown pom
gee laid in side plaits and trimmed with
three bands Of brown and white striped
silk, laid fiat The plaits must be pressed
very hard to hold the silk folds firmly in
place. There Is little straight coat COM
ing to the hips.
Storm accessories. by the way. are now
very fashionable. woman has a pair Of
brown shoes with brown rubbers to slip on
over them. She has brown cloth uppers to
protect her ankles in the rain. Her urn
brella is big brown silk one. and her hat
Is a rough brown straw, trimmed with
quills.
To Freshen a Cotton Frock.
II you have checked or striped cotton
suit that distinctly needs some solid color
to give 1t character when 1t may not be
enough faded to throw 1t away. then get
cotton or linen In plain color cut 1t Into
bias bands three or four inches wide and
use three of these on the skirt or even five
II you are slender. Do not stitch them as
tn the old way. except at the extreme edges
with a self-colored thread. The bands
covered with stitching are not In fashion.
Do not begin placing these bands on the
lower edge of the hem in cotton frocks as
in handsome ones. There is always DIFF
ference made here. On the cotton frock
the bands begin about four inches from the
foot line, sometimes six inches, and are
continued at wide spaces apart In dressy
frocks of fine fabric the new method Is to
put a six-inch band at the exact edge OF
the foot line. and then three small bands
close together around the knees. Paris has
gone quite wild over placing the wide band
of black satin on almost every frock where
the colors will combine.
Choose a Becoming Coiffure.
The very greatest care should be exer-
cised In choosing ones coiffure or In chang
ing from one mode to another. Indeed, the
safest plan is to try not one but many
styles of hairdress!ng until some model en-
tirely satisfactory Is found. and then this
one should be worn regardless of changing
fashions.
Certain styles suit certain faces. one ar
rangement being the more becoming to an
oval face and another to the round face.
but then. all are not Of the true types
There is the short oval. the narrow oval,
oval inclining to plumpness and the long
perfect oval face. Equally numerous are
the different varieties of the round face.
There is the so-called perfect type Of round
face-that is neither too thin nor too fat
the plump round race. the broad fat face
and the very round short face. Then there
is the sharp pointed face to be considered.
the one with receding chin. and the type
possessing very large or aquiline nose. so
that it can be plainly seen that. while
directions may be followed with satisfactory
results. 1t is simply impossible to set down
any hard and fast rules, because so few