New-York tribune., 1907-01-13

rectore fad with the full, short skirt and the
bandeau of the Second Empre?" is question
being agitated by dressmakers and laymen
alike. Nine. Rejane has made her debut
manageress in La Savelli." a beautiful pro-
duction, laid in the time of the Second Empire.
Somehow the modes of the time do not seem so
out OF place to-day. and ii must be confessed
that several fea lures of them are prominent in
up to date costumes. The cOiffeurs. tOo say
that hair dressing is growing much lower and
on lines of the time of Eugene Bandeaux shad-
ing but not concealing the ears and rather
low careless chgnon made of thick strand
of hair the features Of this style of couture
which is rapidly becoming the vogue.
The dener cri in evening coats is to have
them the same color the gown and made to
correspond in general features. The increasing
number of evening cloaks which well gowned
woman considers necessary is an Illustration
of the whole trend of the times. More and
more insistence is being laid on accessories-a
fact meaning that the whole wardrobe is grow
ing more complicated and costly. The fashions
in such serious items as jewels and furs
do not remain quiesCent, but seem to change
over night Every new entertainment appears
to be responsible for some novel way of wear
ing jewels having them set. Undoubtedly
great quantities OF false stones are worn; other
wise the family jewels would be undergoing
the process of transformation two-thirds of the
time However, the term false imitation
jewelry is never used stones are reconstruct
ed" or they are I'm eChaniCal.' There sew
eral places in Paris which deal entirely in this
kind of jewelry. They look to the casual paSser
by like the most serious and high class of kind
of shop, and there is sign to intimate that
the rev pieces OF JeWelFy ulSCTeetly sHOWll are
not real. Their prices are by no means cheap,
for their designs are costly and beautiful and
all the small diamonds used in the settings are
true stones
A costume that PaQuin has recently made for
Nine le BarSy has odd top, which suggests
q cape with the sides drawn together and fitted
under the arms. The fronts which meet at the
waist line are buttOned to a little Corselet vest
piece and side there is tiny watch
pocket. There are no armhoes, the cape
forming sleeve to the elbows under
sleeve of white lace There is a shawl collar
The decolletage is filed in with a cravat of
lace. The material of the gown is golden
brown meteore crepe, and satin in the same
shade forms the shawl collar, bias bands on
the skirt and cape. the flap to the little pocket
and the buttons
WIDE ARMHOLES MODISH.
From the same source comes a visiting cos
tune of heliotrope cloth. The skirt has deep
band of embroidery. done in silks of the same
shade, with a little pale blue passementerie. and
the sleeves and empiecement to the bodice are
entirely embroidered, The top is blouse quite
loose in front, much the lines of those worn
two and three years ago. II IS trimmed with
straps outlining the yoke, and one strap passes
from the shoulders under the arms suggesting
form with turnover cuff of the plain stuff on
the bottom. II covers the elbow over a puff
of crepe in the same shade, which meets a
three-quarter length glove. The big armhole
in this gown. even more than the japanese
sleeve is important. as 1t Is undoubtedly to be
other form of sleeve which is beginning to ap-
pear has a sloping shoulder. with a rather tight
armhole we'll over the arm, and then balloon
sleeve TO a little below the elbow. This latter