The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-06-16
LONDON FASHIONS.
BY MAY DAWSON.

realize that the time will come when
only the finest muslins can be worn
with any reasonable degree Of comfort.
Thanks to the introduction of that
hard-worked friend of the i1npecunious
cotton voile-with its many dainty
and varied patterns a gown of this de-
scription can actually be procured for
a few Shillings. while the simple styles
which carry all before them at the
present moment make it quite possible
for the little dressmaker" to evolve a
thoroughly successful and up-tO-date
creation The majority of people are
rapidly firing of striped materials, in
spite of their unbecOmingness; but one
striped gown is still considered almost
necessity, and among the newest and
smartest combinations may be ranked
white and dark blue, with a vest and
sleeves of cream lace. Cinnamon and
white, plum color and white in the rich
reddish yellow shade of the Victoria
plum are popular, while for garden
party wear nothing can excel the cool
green and white stripes to which the
Understandable Maltese lace vests are
so often allied. Fortunately, the XII
mono style is one of the most satisfac-
tory for hot weather. and washing ma
terial made in this fashion can be de-
Hvered over to the ungentle ministra-
tions of the laundress without much
fear of its being ruined during the
process.
The new idea Of "accenuatIng" the
colored stripe by means of the hair line
black stripe which outlines il on one
side, redeems even the palest shades
from insipidity, while apart from
stripes. spots have thoroughly asserted
their sway as regards the new cotton
materials. One of the sensations of the
moment is the Swallowed spot the
raised dot having a kind of faint re-
fiectiOn or shadow at the back of it,
the spots being lowered over the dress
so as TO leave little of the foundation
visible.
One OF the materials which will play
a large part in the immediate future is
crepe de sole, which is almost as light
as mousseline de sole, but almost I'M
crushable, and the printed designs of
which have a hand-painted effect. The
faVOrite pattern Is that of a wide lat
tice work in black on a white ground,
and finished with a deep border of
massed roses in the fashionable shades
of mandarin and old blue. Another
lovely design is that in which the ma
teTial itself shades very gradually from
pale primrose to orange with a border
of nastuTtiums in burnt orange flame
color and brown. Among the very elab-
crate gowns an exquisite effect is
gained by mounting a transparency of
chiffon in a lattice work design over a
foundation of soft satin embroidered in
roses in very vivid tones, and these
shining through the yelling of chiffon
have almost the effect of being caught
in the trellis-work
Ring spotted net will be largely en-
ployed for gowns to be worn at the
races, and to relieve the sameness of
these dresses number of them are be-
ing mounted over pompadour silk pat
terms with huge roses, the net itself
being hemmed with soft satin in the
color of the flowers underneath. Both
broderie and filet lace are employed as
Sarnitures, the underbOdice of the
gown being often carried out in these
fabrics, while the front panel is laced
across with ribbon finished with tassels
and graduating from a point at the
waist to twelve inches at the hem.
The alpha and omega of dress is by
no means contained in the kimono bod
ice alone. The tunic cOrsage is looked
upon as serious rival to this form of
attire, and to the tall woman the cut
of the tunic brings out all her good
points. while in addition full Justice is
done to the elaborate hand-painted
materials by the introduction of a dOu-
bic border, one at the edge of the skirt
and the other bordering the tunic. Such
an innovation is, however, anathema to
the woman who is inclined to embon-
point and whose weight is not in pro
portion to her width
Many a wondering masculine eve is
turned upon the latest thing in hats
The "cloche' or bell-shaped model is
the most egregious example of 1Innec-
cessary size. It is a descendant of the
mushroom" with a brim that falls
downward all around
Such hats are worn fat upon the
head and if they were not raised bv
pads of hair would cover the face from
view.
The idea that was promulgated at
the commencement of the season of
massing together wild and garden
flowers has by no means worn itself
out, and in the case of a somewhat
Dlzarre nat OF fine burnt straw with a
deep black straw border. the crown
was encircled with golden kingcups.
while bunch of crimson roses was in
serted at one side, from which sprang
large purple clematis which appeared
TO dominate the whole scheme.
Quite a new idea is represented nv
the hat of white rice straw made with
q very full crown and covered with
lace so as to resemble a genuine mob
cap of the eighteenth century. The
only trimming to a hat of this descrip-
ton is twist of cherry coIored green
or pale blue velvet ribbon, caught at
intervals with rOsettes of the same.
and finished at one side with a cluster
OF mock ospreys. For a very young girl
such a hat can hardly be beaten for
garden party wear with white mus
lin gown, but for those who are no
longer in their teens the same scheme
is elaborated in colors. dyed net and
lace caps being mounted over coIored
straws to match, and supplemented
with campact' punches of roses and
other flowers. The same idea in black
is immensely popular, black silk, SPOT
ted over white straw hemmed with
black panne or lined with fine black
straw representing a effective aIli-
ance, the trimming consisting of a
cluster of ostrich feathers at one side.
caught with a jet buckle.
As regards bOas and wraps the mix
ture of chiffon and n1arabout is very
popular Just now. wide, hand painted
chiffon scarf being bordered with two
or three rows Of marabOut feathers