davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times., 1907-02-17

silk wide giTdie of satin or silk would
De correct. laid in close. soft folds. IN
any material one or more rows of braid
might be used instead of banding. or
else cloth banCs. OF bias ones-if the
material rs striped could be effectively
employed a Greek border on the next
skirt would be another pretty way OF
trimming IT, and this could be repeated
on the sleeves, and in the arrangement
Of the trimming upon the bodice. II
viii be noticed that this is planned TO
give a bclero effect
With the chaugeabIe weather which
prevails all over the land in early spring
the coat and skirt suit becomes a IA
vOrite. With a bodice which repeats
something Of the skirt material or trim
mings, and a small. dressy coat, this
kind OF suit is ready To- do service on
either warm davs OF cool ones. The
coat is useful in the morning and late
afternoon hours, while the dress is COM
Portable without a coat during the mid
die OF the day
Such little costume Is shown in fig
ure b. a smart yet simple gown Of navy
blue henrietta. Navy blue by the way.
is the name this season for a rich shade
of blue which bears little resemblance 70
the dark unts formerly known by that
name. The skirt in figure 3 is pleated
in side pleats Of moderate size. turned
forward in the front quite close to-
gether. These pleats are stitched to be
low the hip. and the bottom Of the skirt
IS finished with a deep facing, acove
which IL is trimmed with eight rows Of
stitching put on in scallops. Five to
eight rows of soutache braid with a
twist at the point Of the scauop. would
! be even prettier II the gown were not
20 be used strictly for practical morning
wear. In this case soutache would APP
pear upon the coat in place of stitching.
A wide soft girdle of liberty satin is
worn around the waist over a blouse Of
The Washington times., 1907-02-17
ca Dainty Princess Gown Grenadme Silk Wolfe with Tafeta Discs
DA Gown Showing Oveskr Effect Traced Velvet Bands.

by reason Of the gloss in the grenadine
and dull finish Of the taffeta disks. It
Is trimmed with bands and folds of plain
green taffeta- Any color, self-trimmed,
would be equally pretty.
The bodice Is laid in pleats following
the outline of a V-shaped front and
back, bit broader at the point than
the usual V These pleatS are caught
down TO - silk lining without any ap-
parent stitching. Bretellcs of plain silk
extend over the top of the sleeves. fol-
lowing the shoulder line and coming
more than half way down the bodice
sides in both front and back Bands
OF the silk border the edges Of the
square open neck in front, and form a
collar effect at the top of the back,
which Is not cut at all, although il may
he If one pleases. Across the bottom
Of the front opening wide piece Of silk
IS sewed. shaped in a curve at the bot
tom The arrangement of these bands
around the neck gives room for pretty
little original effects in straps, folds, and
tabs The neck in front opens over a
white lace chemisette. Mousquetaire
sleeves are pleated over n silk lining to
the elbow and trimmed along the outer
The Washington times., 1907-02-17
Rose Tar IN a BOadoIC.

The rose jar OF years ago is now seen
in young women's boudoirs. and happy.
indeed. is the possessor Of a jar that is
family heirloom For those that are
not so fortunate, many beautiful jars
are shown for this purpose.
To MI il. gather the rose petals and let
them stand in a cool place for two
hours. toss them and put them in
large covered dish, sprinkle each layer
with salt. keep adding TO these until you
have enough stock Shake the leaves
every morning and let the whole stand
TWO weeks after the last petals are
added
In a large glass jar place two ounces
of crushed allspice. two ounces Of
broken cinnamon. then put in the rose
leaves and let stand eight weeks COW
cred.
Then il viii be ready for the perma-
uent jar Add two ounces Of Lavender
flowers and one ounce Of shredded orris
root Mix all well together and Tut in
the rose jar in alternate layers W n the
rose stock and a few drops OF oil Of
roses
over this pour a winegIass Of good
cologne. from time 10 time add a little
lavender water, ard occasionally fresh
rose petals This viii last for years.
The Washington times., 1907-02-17

a gown made of Shanung silk in vieux
spriCOt color. In any color it would be
handsome trimmed with velvet or silk
of a deeper tint, and in gray it would
look well with black velvet trimmings.
A simple blouse bodice is built over a
fitted waist lining. The right side Of
the blouse, which is cut in a deep V at
the neck. crosses over the left a trile
and has rolled back revers from the
neck line 10 the bust The top of the
sleeve is i'm one piece with the bodice
but the bottom portion IS separate and
scanned under the arm. a wide fold of
velvet finishes this narrow sleeves which
is little mere than an extension Of the
armLOle on top of the shoulder a
strap of velvet continues over loose
pleats upon the shoulder and fastens
With button, appar .ntly holding up the
sleeve. Before this falls a sleeve of
lace lined with silk and finished with
deep curved cuff of velvet at the elbow.
\ wide belt, boned in the lining. finishes
the bodice, which is worn over a lace
suimpe with a high stock. 1t is a mat
ter of taste whether the sleeves and
yoke shall be Of cOlOred silk embroidery.
brocaded Chiffon OF pOmpadour gauze.
The Washington times., 1907-02-17

lingerie. with q side-ple2ted fr,lL down a
front band. under whIpa sHe waist
festens. A wide, soft stock finishes the
blouse. which may be of soft silk or
chiffon. if one likes.
The coat is loose and a modification OF
the pony jacket" il has a plain jacket
tacI. given shape and decoration by
mea IS of straps Of the material set
across the coat at the waistlina, from
which point in the back the strap turns
mp on each side. crosses the shoulders
and extends down the sides of the front
to above the top of the girdle. where the
straps turn forward across the fronts Of
the jacket and curve upward for about
four inches or more. terminating in
points The inner parts of the curved
front pieces are trimmed with buttons
flat collar piece is stitched in square
shape across the back of the neck. shap-
ing TO strap over the shoulder and
down the edges of the fronts. that
widens at the neck I'm collar shape
Three buttons trim each side of this col
lar shape in front. Full three-quarter-
length sleeves are finished in a large box
pleat on the outer side, over the edges
Of which the bottom Of the sleeve is
curved in horseshoe shape. Two buttons
trim the box pleat at the back, and the
curved part Of the sleeve is stitched.
This is a good model for cloth. voiles Of
the heavier sort. and silks OF not too
thin a character, as we'll as for linens
and piques.
The gown in figure c is given a
princess effect by means OF a front
panel. This panel is shaped very mar
row at the waistline, where It passes
over a belt Of barely medium width.
In this case the gown is built of silk
8renadine wolfe, showing big disks of
taffeta silk in the weave surrounded by
circles of embroidery In color it is tea
green, conveying an effect OF two shades
The Washington times., 1907-02-17

trimmings giving Cachet and little
French touches 20 gowns in which no
hint Of velvet appears Sometimes this
velvet touch is merely I'm line around
the stock and a few little chi-chies-
as the small ribbon bows are termed
which play so important a part in dress
today The colOring, too. is by no
means always black. Vivid green, april
cot. and blue velvet bits give small,
but sharp. accent Of color % a gown
Of entirely different color scheme.
Grays and gun-metaI effects with rich
color notes of velvet are very smart
among spring models. For instance. a
soft striped silk in gun metal and white
is most charming with touches OF april
cot velvet in the neck and sleeves.
LrouErLehL. 1917. BY ". r. Hearstl
The Washington times., 1907-02-17
Contrasting COIors are Introduced in The Gowns in
small trimming Notes.

side with ball buttons and at the elbow
with "a silk cuff.
-Four wide bands cor folds) of silk are
stitched around the skirt at equal dis
tauces apart and then pIeated in with
the skirt. This is faced at the bottom
with "a deep, thin facing, and the en-
tire gown is built upon "a silk founda-
ton Tt may be made trained. II one
likes.
This model is pretty for any soft ma
teriaI whether Of silk. wool or mcshes
combining these textiles. but il would
not wash well I'm lines OF cotton.
A charming model for spring. show
ing the fashionable large aTmhOle and
0verskirt finish, is SHOWN in figure d,
The Washington times., 1907-02-17

DcoDyrlEht. 1901. by W. r Hearst5
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
Why Blue Mondav7

Monday is the busiest day of the
week for me-" said the physician to
the man who had been waiting half
an hour to see him. Il won't try to
put up big bluff and tell you that
my office is so crowded every day in
the week, for ii isn't: but l get a grist
OF office patients nearly every Mon
day. Every physician of any reputa-
ton has the same experience. Why?
All on account of Sunday People do
all sorts of foolish things on that day,
because they have time to and they
pay for it. In the first place, people
eat indigestible rich food on Sunday
that they would not think of eating
-en any other day. They eat too much
also; in fact, some people nibble away
all day, and in consequence they have
lndigestion-for no one has indigestion
so quickly or so acutely as the person
who is used to regular wholesome liv-
ing and once in a long while tries
the unwhOlesOme food-and a trip to
the doctor's always is in order Mon
day. Then, again, Sunday gives a per-
son more time to think of his ills. A
man who viii stoically bear a pain on
working days and drive it away by his
very snubbing Of it will get frightened
at the slightest ache on Sunday. He
gets to thinking about it and comes
10 the conclusion that it is a serious
symptom. So he goes into see a ply
stefan Monday.
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
Good Breeding.

The well-bred girl remembers never
to ridicule sacred things, or what others
may esteem as such, however absurd
they may appear to her.
Never TO resent supposed injury
until she knows the views and motives
Of the author.
Never to enter into a discussion with
any enthusiast or a person much older
than herself.
Never to jest so as to wound the
feelings of others and to say as little
as possible of herself and those who
are near and dear to her.
Never if possible, does she lose her
temper and she learns to speak with
calmness and deliberations especially
in circumstances which lend to irri-
tate
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
SING AND LOOK PRETTY.
One Woman Can't, So She Has No
Vocal Ambitions Whatever.

of course it's nice in some ways
TO have a beautiful voice, but I'm glad
don't sing" said the pretty woman
as she applauded perfunctorily after
The soprano solo. Yes. I am fond of
music, but that is sufficient If 1 could
be tempted to sing what would hap
pen to my good looks 1 think it is
not silly for woman TO wish to look
Well at all times.
"A woman never looks pretty or
beautiful when she sings. She invari-
ably twists her mouth to one side and
makes her face appear crooked. l
have keenly observed the last ten sing
ers l have heard, and every one of
them opend her mouth on a bias. l
haven't the slightest idea why they
90 it, unless the muscles of one side
Of the face are stronger than those on
the other, and in an effort to sing the
stronger muscles do most of the work
suppose men do the same thing, but
generally they wear moustaches to
cover their mouths.
IF one shuts ones eyes a song is all
ways enjoyed more, for there is some
thing disturbing about a pretty woman
deliberately making herself fright
by stretching her mouth in a song"
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
Be Genuine.

A change of voice and extra gra-
ciousness of manner may impose on
the visitor who comes around once a
year or so;- but in the everyday world
with constant companions, a uniform
genuine, equitable course Of conduct is
the best policy.
AS a matter of policy, too, that
course of conduct had better be agree
able, obliging and urbane in order to
smooth the pathway.
Women are the greatest offenders
in hypocricy of manner, because they
are the indoor, weaker sex. Yet, in
the modern world, women do not need
to be anything but or beyond them
selves to be protected and respected
They, and all of us, gain nothing and
lose much by pretenses or affectation
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
Salt Water for the Eyes.

Salt water. fairly strong, used regu-
larly several times a day, will wonder
fully strengthen the muscles of the
eyes. It acts as a tonic upon every
part Of the under lid and the cornea,
and penetrates deep even into the re-
cesses of the tear gland. Upon eye
lids prone to granulation or to styes
the action of warm salt water is most
marked and almost Immediately. The
salt bath was tried upon eyes weak
ened by long use, that could not bear
the light, yet had excellent sight SO
far as power of vision went, if only
the weakened muscles would allow the
iris to have full play. The salt bath
was tried, first with a sponge, later
with the eyes held open in a basin of
salt water, and the result was restored
tone to every feeble muscle.
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
Little Things.

goodbye kiss is a little thing,
with your hand on the door to go,
But it takes the venom out of the
sting
OF thougntless word or cruel fling
Ihat you made an hour ago.
A kiss of greeting is sweet and rare
After the toll of the day,
AND 1t smooths the burrows plowed by
care,
The lines on the forehead you once
called fair
In the years that have flown away
lis a little thing to say: You are
kind;
I love you. my dear each night:
But it sends thrill through the heart
/ find
For love is tender, as love is blind
AS we climb life's rugged height
We starve each other for loves caress;
We take, but we do not give,
II seems so easy some soul to bless,
But we dole the love grudgingly less
and less
Till it's bitter and hard to live.
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
Uomdn'S U)orId
Conducted by Helene VaIeau.
HELENE vALEAU's ANSWERS.

MISS Naleau viii reply to all ques-
Iohs asked by the feminine readers of
tHe 4hIelmountain Catholic. The well
known character and authority Of her
Teplles need no introduction to those
aIreaay familiar with her ability. Miss
FdIedu VIII take a kindly and personal
interest IN those who write to her, and
VIII spare no pains in seeing that their
inquiries are answered fully and care
fully. Write only on one side of the
paper, Address letters to Miss Helene
Valeau, Intermountain Catholic.
Dear Miss Valeau:
What will help my hands? Have
tried lemon juice and glycerfne.
NJ. S. F., Salt Lake.
If lemon juice and glycerine do your
hands no good and they are still very
red, rub a little peroxide of hydrogen
on them every other day and dust them
over with a good toilet powder.
X X X
Dear Miss Valeau:
/ am nervous wreck from not sleep
ing enough. How much sleep do you
advise? G. p. Pueblo.
Without doubt lack of sleep is the
cause of all your ill-health Everyone
who wants to keep in vigorous condi-
ton should have at least eight hours
steep tdCh nlSnI II you must get up
as early as $3.50 in the morning, go
TO bed at 1880 in the evening.
Dear Miss Valeau:
What can you suggest for sore
hands2 JAMES f. Milford
If you rub your hands with cocoa
butter you VIII find it very healing and
l think it will remedy the cracking
you complain of. You can buy it very
cheaply at any druggists.
x X X
Dear Miss Valeau:
Do you advise cold or hot baths?
INVALID, Ogden.
Hot baths are Of great use to those
who suffer from nervous exhaustion.
warm bath at the close of a hard
days mental work is productive of
sleep. but it's wisest first to apply
cold water to the head, or at least to
the brow. After severe physical exer-
ton, such as climbing, walking. BIZ
cycling or riding, it is wise to take
hot bath before going to bed, so as to
relax the muscles and prevent any
sensation of stiffness on the following
day.
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
Medical Chats.

Tobacco should not be strong as a
rule. A smoker will generally find out
what suits him best; one person will
require a light brand, while another
IS able to get through a strong kind
habitually without any untoward
symptom showing itself Most people
know that strong tobacco is liable to
affect the nerves and also the heart.
Cigarettes are the worst things to
smoke. They are mild and therefore
there is temptation to smoke MANY
of them; the mouth gets drv and inn.
pure in consequence, while the nose
and throat are irritated to some ex-
tent. Their mildness also allows a
still more harmful practice, that of
inhaling. Those who smoke many Gig
arettes in a day have their throat. nose
and lungs to some extent irritated for
several hours out Of the twenty-four.
and the pleasure derived must be at
the extent Of certain amount of oxv-
gen that is necessary for the lungs.
There is no room for doubt that the
irritation from cigarettes smoking
causes throat conditions that aggra-
Vate, if they don't directly cause. trou-
bic with the ears. The nose. too. often
suffers considerably, as well as the
eyesight.
It is not sufficient an Indictment
that cigarettes, even the best of them.
are more injurious than anything else
Of the tobacco kind; they are made in
such quality and at so cheap a rate
that enormous quantities of them are
consumed; the great majority of them
are made Of anything but tobacco. so
they really deserve a double condemn
alton.
Cigars are good, but very often far
too strong. They affect the nerves
more than pipes or cigarettes. Light
cigars make pleasant change, how
ever, and if taken after meal thew
are not very injurious. They should
never be smoked too near to the mouth
end.
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
The Irish Piper.

I heard the piper playing,
The piper old and blind,
And knew it's secret saying
The voice of the summer wind.
1 heard clear waters falling,
Tapping from stone to stone;
The wood dove crying and calling
Ever alone, alone.
I heard the bells of the heather
Ring in the summer breeze,
Soft stir of fur and feather
And quiet hum of bees.
The piper drew me yearning
Into the dim gray lands
Where there is no returning,
Although I wiring my hands.
There ID the piper's grooming
saw my dead again,
All in a happy Incoming
OF golden sun and rain.
You piper kind and hoary,
Your pipes upon your knee,
If | should tell my story
The things you piped to me,
The folk would leave their selling,
And bid their buying go,
If I could but be telling
The things you let me know.
Katharine lyman.
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
CLEARING the Complexion.

If the dull skin refuses to clear by
external applications used for bleach
ing purposes, the fault is with the
physical system, usually the result of
a sluggish liver. There is nothing
which so quickly overcomes this fault
as sodium phosphate. 1t is an effer-
vescent, usually taken before breakfast
and is perfectly harmless, correcting
the liver and removing the acidity of
the stomach. 1t costs but Is cents for
almost a pint of the granules and will
last for a long time, since only a tea
spoonful is taken at one time in a half
glass of water.
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
To Clean Silk Gloves.

Don't try to clean silk gloves with
gasoline, but wash them very care
fully. White and black ones can be
washed in soap suds, rinsed and dried
the white ones being dipped into blu
ing water to give them a clear white
appearance. Tinted gloves should first
be soaked in salt water to prevent the
color from fading. If a few drops of
lemon juice are added to the rinsing
water the tints will be revived. silk
gloves can be ironed, though a piece
of linen should be placed over the
gloves when they are ironed. and only
moderately warm iron should be
used. Silk hose can be washed in
exactly the sam" manner and ironed
hen perfectly dry.
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
Where They Eat.

A wealthy lady gave a reception in
honor of her daughters birthday, for
which music was furnished by a pop
ular orchestra. The leader of this or
chestra was a viclinist who had won
social as we'll as professional success
and the hostess evidently wished to
display her knowledge of this fact
When the evening was half over. the
butler approached the musicians. who
We're having short rest, and in his
loftiest manner said, referring to
paper in his hand:
The violin eats in the dining room.
the rest Of the instruments in the pan
try''
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17

Kerosene is splendid acid in the
cleaning of windows. Into a basin put
two tablespoonsful of kerosine and two
Of water. Take a soft cloth a little
larger than the hand, dip it in the ba-
sin, half wiring it and wash your win
dows, both shah and glass. Then rub
dry with a soft newspaper and polish
with soft towel. This process will
remove flyspecks and dirt from both
glass and paint more evenly and quick
ly than soap and water and leaves the
glass with better polish. The guam
tity given is sufficient for washing two
ordinary sized windows.
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
Not His Kind.

Hans the ruraIist, was in search Of
a horse.
I've got the very thing you want"
said stableman, "a thoroughgoing
road horse. Five years old, sound as
quail, SIS cash down, and he goes
ten miles without stopping"
Hans threw his hands skyward.
Not for me-" he said, mot for me.
] wouldn't gif you 5 cents for him. I
live eight miles out in de country. und
I'd htf to walk back two milas."
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
No Hesitation.

A burly, bToad-shouldered man
passed through the gates at the Union
station a few days ago and hurried
with his two solid-lOoking suit cases
toward Pullman porter who stood
stiffly and erect beside the steps Of a
parlor car attached to the train. The
passenger who was long on suit cases
but short on breath, asked the proud
looking porter:
Does this train stop at Railway"
No, sah," replied the negro in a
superior manner; this train do not
stop at Railway, sab. 1t do not even
hesitate at Railway"
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
The Eyelashes.

Let the lashes alone. Too much
trimming is certain to weaken the
strength of the eyes. Girls who go
to the hair-dresser's every week or so
to have their hair clipped or crimped
and permit the officious operator to
shape their lashes may be paying for
eyeglasses in a few years.
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
Mendinu Gloves.

Mending the finger tips of long
gloves with court plaster is the trick
one young woman makes use of to
lengthen the life of this dress Access
sorry which is such a luxury. She
pastes the court plaster on the
side of the finger tip, with the result
that gloves will last immesureably
longer.
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
For MiIdew.

Mildew is easily removed by lemon
juice and plenty of sunshine. Put on
lemon Juice and let stand in Invest sun
shine. Another method is to use a
paste compound of soft soap, table,
spoonful of powdered starch, Juice of
one lemon, salt. Cover the spot with
the paste and allow it to stand As
hours. A second application may be
necessary.
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
T. J. 0'BRIEN
Carpenter and Builder

And General Contractor. Estimates
given. Plans and specifications furn-
ished free.
Residence and Shop PSI So. West Tenn,
Ind. Phone 1920.
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-08-17
Hvacinths and Hay Fever.

A German medical journal reports
the case of a man who was attacked
by hay fever in winter because he
had cultivated hyacinths in his room.