The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-09-08
PARIS FASHIONS.
BY MADAME PARouIN.


of the embroideries and laces used,
and Of the skill with which they are
introduced on some Of the designs. The
simplest form of the handsome lingerie
underskirt is a fitted top of soft lawn,
finished with a deep flounce of hand
some embroidery, set on by a wide
band OF beading. Wide Liberty satin
ribbon is run through the beading, and
tied in long loops and ends at the left
side or on both sides. The body of the
skirt usually extends beneath the
fiounce and finished with narrow lace
trimmed ruffle.
While the beauty and fineness of the
embroidery founcings make many Of
these more simple models elaborate and
costly, yet seem severe and unpTeten
tious compared with the models with
deep flounces OF inset laces and tuck
ing, hand-embroidery, motifs and lace
frills. Particularly pretty are the I'M
derskirts with fiounces of Valenciennes
insertion, edged with lace to match,
tied at intervals with dainty little knots
of satin ribbon, in pale shades of blue
and pink.
Many of the fiOunces on the fine lin
gerie underskirts are extremely deep
and full, but they are so carefully
shaped, and set on the foundation so
smoothly with little tucks, that there Is
no awkward fullness at the point OF
union and the fiounces seem merely
continuation Of the top, fiaring 10 great
width at the edge. Even in the case
of narrower fiouncing the fiOunce is US
ually set on smoothly with tiny tucks
instead Of being gathered.
Colored washing undersktrts are en-
toying an unusual vogue; some OF
them are extremely smart. The colored
pongees, for instance, with deep
xrHr,
very serviceable, and there are attrac-
tive underskirts in linen, embroidered
in contrasting colors-soft blue or rose
embroidered in white, eCTu embrOid-
cred in blue, red or brown. etc.
Skirts Of lawn are shown with col
ored embroidery, the white or ecru
flounce having button-holed scallOp
edges and embroidery design above the
blue, rose, red or other color. These
petticoats are exceedingly chic when
worn with a frock of the color repre-
scented in the embroidery
Chiffon taffetas is the favorite ma
terial for the silk underskirt but some
of the most handsome designs are IN
brocade Of some sort, the soft, supple
satin brocades in monotone cOloring or
in white or pale yellow being particu-
larry favored. A skirt of this lovely
material, although expensive at first,
is most economical, and wears surpris-
ingly well, and the foundation will US
ually Outlast several silk founces.
FIounces of chiffon are worn with these
underskirts, intricately trimmed with
: inset lace matching the color of the
brocade, while. hounces of cream net,
adorned with bebe ribbon or merely
draped over an ander-1OuRce in a fes-
todrr design, caught by knots OF colored
ribbons, are another popular ornamen-
tatiOn.
/ have lately seen some white linen
skirts which were specially designed for
a Russian princess who intends spend
ing the late summer and autumn at
Biarritz, and l was immensely struck
by their grace of outline and exceed
ing simplicity; they were, in fact, quite
ideal from the point of view of a laun-
dress The skirts themselves we're ar
ranged in seven or nine cores and the
seams were double-stitched on the
outer side; at the hem, in each case,
there was killed fiOunce, of about IA
inches in depth. This fiounce was ar
ranged in deep kits, and there was no
material underneath, so that it fiuffed
out over the feet in a most engaging
manner.
Some of the skirts were trimmed with
elaborate machine-stitched strappingS
above the fiounce, and others had sew
eraI transparent insertions of f1let lace.
The trimmings differed considerably
but in each case the skirt was done in
gores-the bias material meeting the
straight-and in each case there was
the Killed fiounce. These dresses were
not quite round" but lay on the
ground a couple of inches at the back,
but they looked most graceful when
lightly caught up in the right hand
From every point of view a skirt of
this genre is desirable; it could not
nd ha
flounce-being perfectly Straightforward
wash and iron perfectly. and then the
killed hem made the skirt bang well
all round. Many Parisiennes cling TO
The plain gOred skirt for linen gowns.
and 10 tall slender figures it is Won
derfully becoming, but it requires 10
he made by a first-class tailor and nm
fshed with exquisite care in every de-
tail The skirts described could be
made at home by any clever amateur
dressmakeT.
With white linen skirts made in the
fashion lust described, dainty little
houses OF finest muslin inserted with
lace. or of spotted muslin done in
many tucks. should be worn, and then
over all one of the smart little lace
holero coates. The whole costume
would be simple as possible, but in per
feet taste
This year 1 do not see so much
heavy linen used for dresses: the IA
vorite white material is very like white
oxford shifting. soft and plia5le, yet
possessed of sufficient substance. This
softer linen keeps clean much longer
than the famous toile rationale. and ii
does not easily crush.
Though white gloves have already re
ceived notice 10 quit the realms Of
fashion save for evening wear and with
the white toilette. they are still being
ordered and worn in the daytime But
to render those that are absolutely new
IN design different from their fellows Of
mast DAYS. they have gauntlets lined
with a color and folded carelessiy out
wards. The newest gauntlets are those
that are fixed in their place with
single stud button made of kid to match
the turnover in color.
one sees nothing but white these days
on both Door and wealthy children.
Even in France. where economy IS so
rigidly observed and where washing Is
expensive. the children affect white
more or less all the year round. but II
has been particularly noticeable this
wear in spite of the cool DAYS. Stin
Swiss is employed for the best frocks.