The San Francisco call., 1907-01-13

be too trying in color extremely smart
and effective.
Chiffon cloth and plain cloth alike are
used for the more elaborate cloth cos
tunes intended for afternoon. The
plain cloth is most exquisite in texture
and is to be had in great variety of col
Oring. The chiffon cloth also follows
closely on the same lines. There are
conservative minded individuals who
contend that such light materials as
chiffon cloth should be kept for the
spring and summer and that cloth itself
should be used in winter. However, it
is quite certain now that any sort of
material is considered smart for the
winter and that there is no rule as to
whether it shall be light or heavy in
weight. The fur coats that are so uni
Versally worn make it possible even in
the coldest weather to wear thin gowns
underneath. and there is something de-
lightfully incOngruous in combining the
very thin materials with fur. For in
stance. a chiffon cloth gown. such
described, is only possible in the street
when the weather is moderate, even
though the jacket be interlined- When
worn under a padded coat of dark
brown Russian fur (of course sable is
greatly to be preferTed such gown
is fascinating in the extreme.
Gray in Many Shades
Gray in a variety OF shades is a
fashionable color and is becoming more
fashionable all the time There is a
queer stone gray that is extremely
popular. but rather trying, for it has
cold. hard tone to it. 1t is. however.
very much softened by the use of white
fur. or white introduced into the trim
ming. The mouse grays are softer. and
they. too, are extremely popular Then
there are the lighter grays in all va .
rieties of shades that were formerly
considered proper only for spring wear
They are made with coats and skirts to
match or else the gown is fashioned in
such wise as to be smart and attractive
with the fur coat. Black and white
trimming on gray is coming into
fashion and when judiciously used is
very satisfactory. 1t is. however,
body and is mentioned simply as one
of the fads of the moment.
There are also gowns trimmed with
velvet ribbon. and this fashion is grow
ing in popularity. rather ousting the
satin or silk bias folds that until now
have been considered very effective.
This ribbon is the color of the gown.
or black. of course. when black the
contrast is very striking and is not to
be rashly attempted. All the same,
this is the time when clothes that have
certain individuality find favor IN the
eyes of fashionable women. To be dis
tinctive and original is the end and aim
of every woman who goes in tre-
mendously for fine clothes. and il some
times she chooses effects that are
rather too striking to be very smart
it is a very easy matter to rectify the
mistake with so many difficult styles
of trimmings to choose rom
proper light and conveniences for shaw
ing. They must go through this neces-
sary part OF their toilet in either semi
darkness or stopped over in some sun-
gainly position 10 reach low hanging
mirror Women also often find the
table de toilet of a guest room 50 far
away from artificial light that it is
with difficulty the hair is arranged for
the evening.
In up-tO-date country hO1Bes bath
rooms are now provided with almost
every guest ROOM They may be tiled
and carpeted with marble. yet. if the
soft floor mat is lacking. they become
a source of annoyance rather than a
pleasure TO guest. In summer weather
few there are who wish to be bothered
by putting on bedroom slippers every
time they tread the marble hoor.