New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1907-02-03
Paris. January Is.

Paris, January %.
After the first of the year entertaining in Paris
fs Of a much more elaborate nature than during
the earlier part Of the winter; dinners become
formal affairs Of from twenty TO forty guests,
and balls take the place Of the small and more
intime Dances receptions and bridge parties.
January is also the season for ceremoaious calls,
but the fashions for visiting gowns of every
description are pretty well settled this time,
the attention of the couturiers is especially di-
rected toward evening toilettes.
Parisiennes Of distinction are making a cult
of the fourreau style Of evening gown built up
OF beautiful material, brocade or velvet, and de-
pending less on trimming for effectiveness than
perfection Of cut that combines clinging
effect with great amplitude at the bottom Of the
skirt Many of these simple gowns have high
WASTED bodlces, somewhat on the Empire style
except that there is often a sleeve, straight and
flowing. Satin and panne rather rival velvet
but nothing is more effective than the fourreau
Of old gold and silver embroidery. Some pail
letted designs are seen. but they must be
tremely nice to be considered in the front rank
of ceremonious toilettes.
Another style of evening toilette less formal
in character is made Of thin diaphanous ma
terials heavy with embroidery. It IS more in
gowns Of this genre that notice new ideas
such as the blOUsing cOrsage, half covering the
belt, or the falling shoulder line, the wide arm
hole, the kimono sleeve a dinner gown Of rose
silk vcile has the corsage cut out in a deep
square over chemisette of Alencon lace en-
broidered with silver roses in a raised design.
The chemisette has a round decoIetage and ap-
pears again IN the form Of two full lace hounces
forming the short sleeves The corsage proper
is very low over the shoulders and has immense
armhcles, almost half a yard deep About the
- &c IToF1ra fdaT1
of pink pearls and silver thread and on the
skirt the embroidery runs as high as the waist
and includes not only the pearls and silver, but
fine ruchings of narrow pink velvet ribbon. The
waist is little high, but with no suggestion Of
the Empire. and the belt is q drapery of pink
velvet. partly covered by the falling front Of the
corsage.
WHY THE GUIMPE IS BECOMING.
a gown which shows the fashionable guimpe
idea has the corsage cut out in deep heart shape
with front pieces that cross over on the ceinture
These fall loosely and rather low the shout
ders, and are heavy with silver embroidery; the
unGer blouse which makes short puffed sleeves
* Of fine nlet lace, and the material of tho
gown Is white panne. The long skirt is I'M
trimmed save for line Of sable about the hem
The use Of the guimpe evening gowns
means that the outer corsage is low, for the
guin2e itself must have a conventional decol-
letage. It is a becoming fashion, particularly
50 10 d plump figure for the low front gives long
lines and 4 silhouette only possible by the OF
the guimpe, or MODESTO to give IL its old
fashioned French name The wide straight
sleeve, like the exaggerated wide armhole. is not
universal on evening costumes but 1t is newer
than the short puffed sleeve. Evening gowns
may lie made without sleeves beyond draperies
attached 10 the shoulder straps. Worth, for in
stance. rarely puts a sleeve in any formal even
ms gown, SIN Partisan taste is much in favor Of
Z short sleeve; il is thought 10 add TO the grace
Of the line" and 10 give a softer effect to the
shoulder
Poin, d'esprt has always been a favorite ma
ter.al for young girls. and now that il may be
rad IN lot OF delicate pale tints II is more than
ever popular deliberately trimmed in the
case OF the model described below. II is equally
suitable 70 young matrons- This gown has the
rose point desprit mounted over white thus
making the tint quite pale, and the skirt is
trimmed with double paitings Zone side turning
up ana one down. Of the stuff, with narrow fes-
ICONS Of small pink roses between. Here and
there the garlands are caught with silver ribbon
knots.
The corsage is odd, extremely graceful and diff
ficult TO describe; the point d'esprit makes
draped belt and continues in loose folds 70 form
a sor; OF pointed girdle, perhaps with the belt
seven eight inches broad in front Under and
above this IS Z. tight little corsage Of silver lace
with narrow shoulder straps Of silver embroidery
The lecolietaGe IS low, and I'm front Is a single
velvet rose in deep pink There are low-falling
sleeves Of uEned point d'eSprtt arranged in
three deep horizontal tucks over lace founce.
arrnholes over undersleeves is the model chosen
for quaint dancing frock in blue and white
striped gauze. There is d tiny three-cornered
modesto Of Gna Irish lace. and lace bag
serves as sleeve under the loose armlole. The
skirt hangs from a high belt Of blue silk. and
The nchf fronts tuck into this lelt. The skirt
r. trimmed only by thick ruche Of satin ribbon.
THEATRE AND OPERA GOWNS.
TIE striped gauzes make attractive evening
toilets for Informal occasions. Gray and white
IS pretty with d band of gray velvet about the
bottom 81 TIE skirt. and a second band about
the tunic. which closes with a slight slashng
on one side 4 bodice OF this is shirred across
the shoulders and the arms rest in bag sleeves
open the upper part; this is softened by a
drapery of white gauZe embroidered with silver
Visitors TO Paris are often puzzled to under
stand which theatres are considered the proper
places for elaborate toilets and which are not
As a rule evening gown that is a decollete
bodice Is little worn at any French theatre. and
the su3artest costumes are those finished with