New-York tribune., 1907-01-06
WI LEAD In FURS.
Ne1C York Has Distanced London az
a NerC Way.
by William II. Stewart.

Unnoted by the general observer, another indus
trial leadership has to the United States
New York City is now the greatest fur
featuring centre in the world. Upward of three
thousand establishments for the treatment OF furs
and the making of fur garments arc in operation
here. and the value of their annual product ap-
proximates 100000
Until year ago London made up more
furs than New York. with Paris second and ST.
Petersburg dividing third place with the American
metropolis. London still Is the worlds great
for the raw pelts the semi-annuai auction sales
there drawing buyers from all quarters OF the
globe. But in quantity and value of the finished
goods New York has surpassed all.
Probably nine out OF ten persons believe that the
furs which they buy OF the original natural
colors. and, except for being cut to fit required
sizes are in the original natural form. AS mat
ter or fact. many furs dyed, and nearly all
cut and sashed 70 ribbons and then sewed to-
gether again 10 look better than they did before
1t Is only another example OF art which is an I'M
provement on nature
1t is because of the art which lies In the making
up of furs that this country has forged ahead OF
the rest of the world in the scientific manufacture
or fur garments. American enterprise discovered
the artistic possibilities of cutting piecing and
dyeing. and the devotion of fortunes TO the trade
soon forced an appreciation OF the excellence OF
the American product. Formerly the cheaper but
less skilful labor of Europe retained the bulk OF
look at the inside of sable marten skin
ppypared TO be stitched into boa or muff is
pieclng are carried out and OF the skill shown by
knife as sharp as razor. may be from half itH an
inch TO an eighth of an inch in width When sewed
comes considerably longer and narrower than was
the original skin and OF more Importance still the
Deautlful dark streak down the centre OF the back
has been deepened and elongated. The men who
stripes unite all the feeling OF the artist with the
caution OF the worker in tewelry. They command
demsna sGss gay and their services are always in lively
process quite as delicate as the cutting and
ia Of and Hara
the American workman exces. The perfection of
color and tint with the preservation of the rioss
ness OF the fur and its natural hrmness and plla-
Experments S By AmePican Chemists within the
g or fur o nd have nrsey changed the
stantly being introduced. The composition OF the
carefully guarded from general knowledge and the
nnm3er OF successful dyers in the world is very
the fur dressers OF New York are recognized to be
pre-eminent. and although the English long exo
celled In the dressing and dyeing of fur seal skins
the latter are now treated in this country equally
we'll.
In no trade in the world more valuable
articles handled than in the fur industry. Some OF
costliest gems; and. like the latter. they can
would be less expensive than a similar one made
from the skin of silver fox. A few years ago a
steel safes in the store OF New York furrer are
kept skins which could not be duplicated for
The responsibility which rests designer and
least mscacuatan or careiessness @ may Ses Result e
the loss OF hundreds OF dollars IN the value OF tho
skins. and. on the other hand. "a skilled workman
may enhance their value greatly
At first glance II might seem peculiar that the
grelt commercial centre for furs is in a Coun-
try where no fur-bearing animals are caught
Twice wear. I'm February and September. buy
ers from all over the world gather In London. and
there they have choice from all parts of the
globe. Seals captured in Alaska auctIoned off
in London, bought IN by American merchants and
brought to New York. Beaver trapped in Canada
are sold In London and brought back TO line the
coats OF wealthy Americans
All this has its simple explanation. The various
governments invite fmpo-tations of furs free
OF duty. and the cost OF mere transportation Is a
negligible amount BY establishing a central en-
porium for the sale and purchase of furs the
furriers OF the world provide themselves with the
greatest possible variety OF stock from which to
choose. II must be remembered that n single pelt
OF absolute perfection may he the worlds WELD for
an entire year and the competition for such furs
is always keen.
wide knowledge and large financial resources
are necessary TO the successful conduct OF fur
manufacturing on a large scale. When American
buyers at tho London sales select their fIrs they
seldom have chance TO see the fur side OF the
pelt on account of its treatment in the when
II is turned inside out. For this II requires
an evpert judge OF pelts to know tho quality of
the skins. The skins when bought shipped IN
how particular shipment turns out.
In carving in stock supply OF the more valu-
able skins large amount of capital is tied ND.
y Is nothing unusual for instance: for single
New York frm to invest half n million dollars in
q inF 90 oil lrlA Mo- afy