The daily morning journal and courier., 1907-10-07
THE FASHIONS FOR
 THE NEW SEASONS Long Skirts, Long Coats, Long Sleeves and Long
 Purses. GOLD PREDOMINANT. White Costumes Will Be Worn Through the
 Winter.
DID PREDOMINA ANT.


 gant than those heralded from East ern courts, long coats of perfect ht and exquisite tailoring; bodices swathing the figure with studied carelessness; long sleeves, sheathlng the arm, either in plain or mousque- taire effect; large hats, more plctur- esque in their simplicity than the original Gainsborough, and there we have in a nutshell the general trend of the new seasons styles.
 Skirts are joy, for there are two distinct types, so that one or the othel is sure to suit the figure One oL these is the circular. with or without the seam down the center or the lroht and fitting snugly around the hlps' faring below, and the other with the nanier effects (and the variety or them is great), which, as they are al- most invariably straight and undrap- ed. still permit of the long, unbroken lines. that are the order of the day. From the Japanese modes we have slipped into the classic. Strangely enough, the most effective costumes are not of the silks and satins, but of the cloths. which are dazzling in their loveliness. They are so soft and pliable that they drape we'll fall ing almost of their own accord into graceful folds, and they are so deep and rich in their colorlngs and so fairly scintillant in their tinted gloss ing, that one hesitates to add an iota of trimming, lest some of this unusual beauty should be lost.
 It is difficult to prophecy what ool- ors will take the lead, for 1t is alto .gether a matter of individual choice, ,so far, and time only can say definite ly how these many minds of many women (to paraphrase) will group themselves. It is, however, safe to say that the warm, deep tones of the colors, whatever they may be, Will hold. for it is a season of richness. Browns. with all the multitudinous variations from palest yellow and cream, through the side tones ot pinks and reds, to the autumnal shades that deepen through smoke tints to ct black, are shown in the new cloths, and in the old ones, which have been enriched wherever possible to keep pace with the novelties It is a season of great luxuriousness, as evidenced in every detail of every de- partment of woman's dress, and yet il is always, as has been said, the ele- gance of simplicity
 Broadcloth is the cloth par excel lence this season. It always has held its own in the very front ranks of fla brics used for street costumes, but this year it's scope extends beyond that. to dinner and evening gowns, 1T the construction of which an amazing amount of artistic originality 1: shown. Very handsome and typica of the new ideas is gown of Mig non" blue, new shade, or, rather tint, evolved from old blue and gold and which is particularly effective ir cloth, more so than in silks and satins although 1t already is on the market in each of these materials.
 The skirt was circular with a panel down the front This panel was about four inches wide at the top and widened gradually to twelve inch es at the bottom. It was decorated with an all-over braided pattern, done in blue silk soutache, picked out here and there with tiny buttons, covered with old gold silk thread, and border ed with two-inch band of the cloth wrought in much the same manner as the panel, but with a heavier braid Except for this panel, the skirt was severely plain. The bodice worn with it was cut decollete and swathed over a fitted lining. Over the shoulders as there were no sleeves, and outlin- ing the rounded neck was a band of the same embroidery that edged the panel while down the front was 8 panel or vest narrowing toward the waist line, giving a princesse effect broken only by the introduction of a narrow belt of embroidery.
 It is surprising when one pauses te think of 1t, how naturally we are talk. ing to tapering, fitted waists, after these many days of comfortable looose blouses. One wonders almost whether the Grecian bend will no follow. However, women of fashion and especially those who led the fash ions, are quick to renounce what k not to their liking, and they like theil comfort, so it is clearly demonstrate ed that the dressmakers have found way to make these fitted waists quite as enjoyable to wear as were tht bdouses. It is much the same witt them as it is with corsets, once tht linings or the boned corset-cover which is frequently substituted, i' properly fitted the fitted waist is { joy forever, and even has someS ad yantages over the shirtwaist, but le the bones be put in ever SC little tt the left or right, above or below tht right place, and only discomfort fol lows.
 For the woman with sufficient time and ingenuity to make some of hel own clothes, a valuable hint will bt found in the use of the boned com. binatfon suits, corset cover and skir or the covers alone, which are fitted to order and may then be made tC serve as a foundation for other gowns.
 Skirts are growing longer despite the vigorous protests of the American woman who has fairly revelled in tho opportunity to display pretty hosiery . and smart shoes. But for all veal nearing the ceremonious we must nov don skirts that swish and swir6 around our feet without, however ever getting under them-for ont