davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Coeur d'Alene press. (Coeur d'Alene, Idaho) 1906-1907, 1907-05-09
TELEGRAMS.
They May Be Opened and Read and
Refused by the Receiver.


"of the many popular suppositions
which are erroneous" said a telegra.
pher TO reporter, zone is that the ad.
dresseo or the receiver OF a telegram
upon which the tolls are to be collect
ed must pay the charges II he opens
the envelope and reads the message.
"Thla, however, Is not correct. but II
Is astonishing how universal Is this
belief. There are many ways Of ac-
counting for It, and perhaps one may
be attributed to the fact that letter
sent through the mails upon which
postage Is due and collectible Ii sur.
rendered to the addressee only upon
the payment of the necessary deficient
postage
Much more Importance attaches to
n telegram than to a letter on the part
Of the recipient, and II II seldom that
a person will refuse to receive and to
pay for telegram sent collect though
Hn individual might refuse to pay the
additional postage due upon a letter
holding that II the sender did not es.
TEEN Il Of sufficient Importance to full.
~ prepay II the addressee did not care
70 receive It. But there Is always
more or less Importance regarding
telegram, aud many persons have re
celved collect telegram and then
afterward kicked themselves because
they were required to pay the charges.
"liut a telegram may be opened. read
aud refused precisely as the addressee
Of a letter may refuse TO receive let
ter Ia the latter instance the ad
dressed does not open the envelope
but indorSes thereon the words Re
fused by addressee' aud signs his
name, and this Is the course TO pursue
With a telegram which the aadressee
does not desire to accept. only the en-
velope may first be opened.
"The telegraph company protects Il.
self In always insisting at the time OF
the receipt Of collect message that
the sender shall deposit with the re-
ceiFer sufficient sum to pay Tor the
fun tolls, and II this is not demanded
aud received by the clerk accepting
the message he ls held personally re.
sponsible by the company In the event
OF the message being refused at the
other end OF the line.
Many persons send collect tele-
grams, often at great length aud con-
siderable cost as means Of annoy.
anee OF as a ioke on the recipient. but
The Coeur d'Alene press. (Coeur d'Alene, Idaho) 1906-1907, 1907-05-09

the joke may be turned on the other
fellow by simply refusing to pay the
charges. There Is one exception. how
ever. TO the rule. and the public might
bear II In mind to advantage. Often
kilograms are sent which require d.
rect and immediate answer. In these
instances the collect charges are ex-
pected to be paid. whether the recip-
lent likes the message or not. and II is
seldom that we have trouble In such
cases 40 regards the tolls. Washing,
ton Star
The Coeur d'Alene press. (Coeur d'Alene, Idaho) 1906-1907, 1907-05-09
IF YQD LIKE
COTTON GOODS

but you don't. Most men prefer wooden. for -,
en- alone will wear and keep its shape under y
conditions Our Stein-BIoch Clothes are M; =.
WOODEN, tested by the caustic process. Nocot5es
is in Them They will fit you It will coe1 -
The Coeur d'Alene press. (Coeur d'Alene, Idaho) 1906-1907, 1907-05-09

Harry Jones, who formerly lived at
ga South Cleveland avenue, Poca-
tello, says: 81 have suffered from
rheumatism terribly for years. A
year ago went to Hot Springs to
take a course of sulphur baths, and
received much benefit from that treat
ment. When returned home, l had
attacks at different periods and one
of the clerks in the store in which |
work recommended Doan's Kidney
Pills, which he said he had used with
great benefit. / went to a drug store
and got box. They benefited me
in every way and finally caused the
pain to disappear entirely. My father
has used Doan's Kidney Pills and
thinks there is nothing like them for
curing baekache." For sale by all
dealers. Price 80 cents. Foster. Mil.
burn Co., Buffalo, New York, sole
agents for the United States. Re
member the name-Doan's-and take
no other.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-20

beetles backs. Indeed, this gown is so
brilliant that jewels will be laid aside when
ever it is worn.
Another woman who has had the dexter
ity necessary to purchasing one of these
wells in Egypt regards it as too precious to
hack out in a ball gown the weight of the
beetles backs the thin net causing it to
be very perishable. She Will use her veil,
therefore, shoulder scarf during for nal
dinners and at the opera.
The women of the harem. for whom these
wells are made, only wear them unusual
occasions, and delight in them. because
beetles have ever been objects of interest in
Egypt and used in various ways for
personal adornment.
Many boleros embroidered in gold or sill
Yer and characteristic of Egyptian art are
beng used this winter as decorations for
tea gowns and other house gowns. The
most beautiful of these boleros are made
also by the women of the harem, and can
be recognized from the ordinary ones sold
in bazaars from the fact that no stitches
show their right sides The sewing
from the under sides. and the embroidery
appears to rest on the upper sides of the
boleros though by magic.
The inexpensive boieros are worked bv
men in the bazaars and cannot compare in
dei!cacy or beauty with those done by the
harem women.
Light-colored silks and cashmeres lend
themselves as artistic combinations for
these bo'eros. When, moreover a short
house gown is designed for the use of one
a feature is sometimes made of having two
knee sashes hang down in front, as being
suggestive of oriental costumes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-20
Costly Harem Wells
for Pa11 Gowns

CI.,CE for several winters the fashion
- OF going TO Egypt for five or six weeks
has been observed, and since this fash
ion has barely touched its zenith, it is per-
haps wonder that rare materials and
textures are beginning 10 be seen decorat-
ing the ball gowns OF ltra-fashionable wo-
men. OF these materials the most novel
and costly are the soft net wells embrod-
cred by the women of Egyptian harems.
The original purpose of such wells is an
exclusive one. They are made by the wo-
men of lower degree in the harem for the
favorite or favorites of the moment. The
supply of them, therefore. is very limited
and it is a certainty that those brought to
this country have most ANONYMOUSLY sue
cumbed TO the extravaganza of the Ameri-
can purse.
Many of these white net wells, fit for a
queens coronation. are covered with the
hard luminous parts of beetles backs,
placed at regular intervals and strapped
across by threads of gold. The effect is
striklngly brilliant, these insects backs
are changing In color as the opal, while
at the same time they sparkle like dia-
monds. From palest blue and green they
intensity to sapphire and purple, and again
change in tone from shell pink to bright
red and deep wine color. Sometimes the
beetles backs are split. and the two oblons
sections which are then embroidered on the
net suggest lively-looking spangles.
When showing her harem veil to friend
one careless woman is amusingly related to
have said: THE beetle happens to be a
common bird in Egypt"
1t would be a daring woman indeed who
ventured to have gown made entirely OF
tuch ACCOMMODATED wells. The effect
would be too startling and not in good taste
for the uses OF society. AS bodice draperies
however, with the ends hanging down the
back, or for a panel effect in the front OF
ball gowns, these wells are unusual and
beautiful. One of these gowns, which Is
awaiting function worthy of its appear
snce. is made as a modified princess an6
has the veil hung over white satin, cover
ing the entire length of the front. The res
Of the gown is of velvet. harmonizing will
the most delicate tones OF green in the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-20
Long or Short Waists-Which
From Harper's Bazaar.

From Harper's Bazaar
What in the beginning of the season was
called by a leading dressmaker the war
between the high and low waist line has
been practically settled by this midseason,
by arbitration which involves concession
from both sides, but with honors to each.
Those designers who take their cues from
Paris continue to bring out charming long
tight-ftting garments; while the others,
equally loyal to the word that comes forth
from Vienna, cling TO the short-waisted
and loosish effects in coats and gowns.
The first are producing new long coats that
fiji closely to the figure in the back, fasten
with three buttons only in the center OF
the upper front, these set close together.
while the lower portions of the coat are
open. The second are developing the short
bolero jacket with seamless back and full
three-quarter-length sleeve. The result OF
this rivalry is a diversity unparalleled in
many years. On only two points do the
two schools fully agree: sleeves must be
short and the corset made to meet or to
further their plans.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-20
Mushroom Hats.

Mushroom shaped hats among the
most popular of the season, and a bewil-
dering variety of them was seen at a matt
nee this week One girl certainly went
the whole hog when she wore a hat of
the mushroom shape, covered with the pal
est tan velvet, put on perfectly plain.
That is, there was no trimming on the
top but the brim was flied in underneath
with accordion plated pink chiffon. and
the hat was an almost perfect imitation of
a fresh mushroom. AS the young woman's
dress was a simple one of the same pale
shade of tan. 1t easily might have been
the stem of the mushroom, thus carrying
out the idea. One man said It made him
feel as If it were still summer and he had
come across fresh mushroom on his golf
course, where he SO often found them.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-20
Couture Ornaments in
Flowers and Plumes

A MONG the charming hair ornaments
~ now in vogue are those in three
pieces, for young girls, one for
each side of the part and the third for
the back, where the hair is gathered into
tight bunch of curls or waves on the
nape of the neck. These hair ornaments
are necessarily not elaborate, but consist
simply of punches of small rosebuds, sin
gle large roses, punches of leaves, &c
They are not spangled or snowy. al
though sometimes trimmed with a few
crystal drops. Another couture ornament
for q young girl is especially adapted to
one wearing her hair In roll around the
back and pompadour in front. 1t is a
bandeau of gold brocaded or gauze
ribbon, fitting well down over the head
tied in a knot and with two short ends in
the middle of the back of the head In
the middle of the 'front.' of the bandeau
there is an ornament, either a large
flower. a pair of little gauze wings or a
bow of ribbon. This ornament instead of
being placed directly IN front, may sc to
one side of the front
Also for a young Girl whose hair is
worn low on the nape of the neck and
parted in front with side curl is couture
ornament of ribbon and roses The rib
bon is made into a square sort of butter
fly bow, fastened We'll down on the left
side of the head and quite well off the
face, toward the crown of the head. The
ends are then carried across the part and
are used to tie up a bunch of roses which
| is the ornament for The rigSt side of the
head opposite the bow. One, Of course, of
these ends must be the larger, and
whichever end, whether it be roses or
ribbon, should be used on the right side.
Ribbons are wired i'll half circles and
sewed with crystal drops for simple coif-
! fure ornaments to go across the front Of
the hair.
1t is very fashionable to wear pair Of
flowers in the hair The flowers so en-
p1oyed may be anything to suit the wear
er's fancy, but roses are always among
| the most satisfactory of artificial flowers.
| With the parted hair and the full puff
} or pompadour or the numerous elaborate
hair dressings now so fashionable the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-20

pairs of flowers are in harmony. One
such flower is placed well to the front on
the left side. while the other is used on
the right side, much further back, or
even quite at the back. When a high
couture is worn the second rose should
be placed at the base of the knot at the
back. When the hair is worn low the
flower may be placed down on the neck.
The high combs now in favor are also
used as a support for floral hair orna-
ments. The plain combs are used for this
purpose, the top being twined with tiny
vine, sparkling with dew drops, with small
roses, etc.
Wrcaths, semicirces, fillets and other fiat
decorations for the hair are extremely
popular in spite of the more eaborat tie
bird and aigrette headdresses which are
now making any fashionable assemblage
of women so odd looking. The fillets are
made of gold, pearls, diamonds and other
jewels and sometimes there are several
strands in which brilliants and small flow
ers are mingled. A very handsome wreath
was of frosted red and white leaves. An
other wreath was of cyclamen and another
Of small yellow orchids Tiny grapes and
red berries are also made into these hair
Wreaths
Many of these floral wreaths have aig-
rettes, plumes or birds of paradise rising
from the wreath on the right side. These
plumes do not stand high, but are all
made to start upward slightly toward the
back, and then, if a long plume, to fall
over the hair
Nothing is handsomer than the bird Of
paradise couture ornaments. In them
selves they are excessively beautiful and
most fashionable: but they are not any
thing like as becoming many simpler
and less expensive headdresses. In fact,
the woman who looks her best in bird
of paradise couture ornament is rare in
deed. The eccentric character of the dec
ora ton demands certain brilliant artifici-
atty. sparkling perfection of finish, in
its wearer or, if not that, then a splen-
dor of appearance, combined with cer-
tain savage quality.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-20
DINNER GOWN Of LIBERTY oIATIN WITH
VENETIAN LACE

tractive adornrnents are to be had. such as
will trim up last seasons ball gown and
make it look like new, and every one knows
the wonders that can be wrought with a
new broad satin girdle and sash ends orna-
mented with brilliant rhinestone buttons or
buckle. y broad girde and sash ends is in
fashion at the moment and certainly does
go far in making an otherwise shabby gown
look fresh and smart. that the invest
ment in ribbon and effective buttons and
buckles at this time of year is certainly
wise and prudent. Both the plain and the
pompadour ribbons are attractive for this
purpose, and there is no end of most faS-
cinating designs of color and pattern to
choose from.
Crepe de chine and Powered silks are a
boon to the forced to be economical woman.
for there many different shades of
color in the one and patterns in the other
to make 1t by no means impossible to
have an attractive evening gown without
being wickedly extravagant. OF course
there is no limit to the amount of money
that can be spent in the more expensive
grades Of Powered and brocaded silks and
satins while in crepe de chine well the
wide field of expense is decidedly alluring
but there are sales when crepe de chine,
and in most fascinating shades, can be
bought at absurdly low prices, while in the
silk sales it merely means the expenditure
of time and taste to choose an effective col
orng and design. Figured net and just a
bit of handsome lace with ribbon and bright
| buttons comprise all the trimming needed,
and for the crepe de chine net tn same
color on the waist and sleeves is extremely
smart and effective. and no lace is needed
Furthermore, if there be silk lining that
has already done duty, provided II hts ana
hangs we'll. the dressmaking part OF the
gown need not present insurmountable dlftl-
culties.
The superb brocade gowns always fash
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-20

tinct, and there are very few who dare dis
obey those stern mandates.
There are, it is true, two different styles
of evening dress-that intended for a large
formal dinner and the costume designed for
dinner at a fashionable restaurant, to be
followed probably by a visit to the play.
The latter dress borders closely upon the
theater costume or reception dress, being in
reality cross between the two. Formerly
it was not considered good form to be too
conspicuously gowned in any public place
but this idea has vanished with the fashions
of other years. and today the lightest and
most effective gowns are necessary for the
restaurant dinner. In America a hgh-cut
evening gown is always obligatory at a res
taurant, although there may be a colarless
yoke to the bodice to allow of the high dog
collar or string OF pearls showing up with
best possible effect. If there is collar at
all it should be as high as comfort will al
low, and collar and yoke are Always trans
parent in this style of dress. The sleeves
shorter than the regulation elbow
length but not short those seen
the low dinner gown. Liberty satin, en-
brodered chiffon. satin, lace, brocade, all
popular evening fabrics in fact, are seen in
this high dinner dress There number
less pink gowns this year, always in deep
or bright shade, and the yelloWs, blues and
whites are as plentiful as ever White or
deep cream lace, made in some way sug
gestive of the empire, makes a most be-
coming dress the hat being all white or
enlivened by touch OF some shade that is
peculiarly becoming.
The empire ls seen In all possible guises.
sometimes so changed as to be almost I'M
recognizable, and again in the original
model is to be noted fine net or lace falling
loose from above the waist line over a
smoothly fitting lining of satin finished silk.
In all materials that are not transparent the
empire model bears a close relation to the
fitted princess, for there are remarkably
few figures, however slight and tall, that
can wear the true mpir gown. The new
est models have the soft draped bodice, but
the material of the skirt is swung from
higher up on the waist than was seen
the first of these dresses. Although this
last is slightly newer, still the old model Is
more generally popular, as it shows the
natural lines of the figure to so much better
advantage The girdle effect of ribbon,
brought well down in front and carried up
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-20

ionable are once again 70 he popular. and
the beauty of the fabric shows to the great
est advantage in the simple lines of many
of the most attractive models of the winter.
The empire suggested rather than defined,
Is especially charming in a gown of white
or yellow brocade. trimmed only with fine
lace on the waist: the skirt. without any
lines. The upper part OF the waist IS
draped in horizontal folds over the lace, for
the Wa st * cut exagger3tedly low at the
bust and filed in with the lace, which comes
over the shoulders from the V-shaped point
at the tack. There is n bow-knot work In
silver thread across the lace and on each
shoulder is bowknot that efficiently holds
in place the big winSlike sleeves OF lace
that fall down over the skirt either leaving
the upper part of the arms bare or disclos-
Ing a light fitting sleeve of net. This is
style that shows to perfection the beauty or
material. coloring ond design, and at the
same time is effective in the less expensive
silks and salins. However. il must he ad-
mitted that a rather more elaborate style
that requires the aid of satin or velvet TRIM
mings is the more satisfactory Tor the
cheaper grade of material
The pompadour silks are good invest
ments at the present moment and the odd
shades are to be carefully sought, as they
make up in a more distinctive effect than
the rather more ordinary designs The
queer two-toned colorings, shading from
blue to mauve and with strange lowered
designs, are extremely smart and not al
ways too expensive. They are suitable Tor
the simple styles of evening gowns to be
worn now and will be most useful in the
summer season. as they are in keeping
with the picturesque fashions that are so
rapidly gaining a hold on popular favor
Plain and satin finished crepe de chine
are the best to choose for, oddly enough,
the figured ones never make up so satis-
factorily and are generally more expensive
also.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-20

vines, etc, else an application c the
same sort of design.
A cushion covered with green wooden ma
teral had lattice-work decoration of paler
green and over this application of vines
and leaves, with large pink roses. these
having been cut from chintz. Another
cushion was of brown denim, with lat
tice work of heavy wooden stitching, done
in the largest possible stitches and a very
open design. The flowers clambering over
this lattice WORK were embroidered in yell
low and green. pale pink cushion had a
lattice work of dark red denim stitched on
in the design, and over this white rose
design made of heavy wooden thread done
in outline, was placed. Grapes cut from
chntz or embroidered are also used in the
lattice work, as are all designs which would
De IN harmony with the lattice effect.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-20
The Present Craze
for Old Pewter

A T the present moment a veritable pas
~ sion is raging for pewter, antique
pewter. of course, when it can be Sc
cured and when not for the innumer-
able modern trifies which are being
made in the stuff. The shop windows of
Paris and other large cities are now show
ing all the delightful knickknackery in
pewter that has for several years been
made in silver. Bonbonneres, trays, ash
receivers, hairpin boxes, plates, mugs and
small figures are among the list of small
pieces which come within the financial
reach of many. They are presented in va
rious shapes and designs. and, with few
exceptions, are modelled after antique
pieces. Hanging baskets, double wreaths
and turtle doves appear on trays recalling
the Louis XIV decoration, while lions ram
pant and exquisite feur de lis are well
skillfully wrought i'll pewter
Indeed, there is said TO be about pewter
a softness and pliabity which make it a
delightful material in which to model
Scuptors in Paris have worked out in
pewter some of their best designs and eX-
hibited them alongside of those in bronze
and marble. AS a rule, however, 1t Is
small figures, from three to seven inches
high, and after the antique, which are most
attractive in pewter.
Collectors have greatly bestirred them
selves with this rage for pewter and now
present in their shops old mugs and plates
for the decoration of dining rooms. Indeed,
they appear most charming when placed
against brilliant backgrounds: 1t should DO
remembered when purchasing. however,
that many piece of pewter is sold as an
ANTIQUE when in truth IT. has been but lately
made. The cost of an antique piece Is
nearly double that of one known to be
modern.
The innumerable small boxes, for which
there is nearly always room for one
more" are modern, with few exceptions.
They are at the same time pleasing and
useful and make most acceptable gifts
Travellers bringing pewter articles from the
other side find to their sorrow sometimes at
the New York custom house that there is
an unfinching 60 per cent duty On the ware.
Two or three of the smaller articles; how
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-20
In the Bath Room.
From Harper's Bazaar.

From Harpers Bazaar.
The one thing to be avoided is a clutter
of small things-too many bottles and boxes
on the shelves and tables, number of
rumpled towels, and. above all, rack of
clothes hung up to dry.
The nickel plate should be kept shining
with constant polishing, and the white
porcelain, tiles. and enamel immaculate.
The nickel collects the green oxide men
toned before and the white enamel pecu-
liar yellow stain If neglected. Any one who
has attempted to correct the results of this
neglect in either case has found her task a
difficult one, and If the neglect has contin-
ued too long almost an impossible one. With
daily care, soap and water combined with
vigorous scrubb.ng and rubbing are quite
sufficient. A gritty soap should not be used
on either the nickel or the enamel.