Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-11-03
for Max
ing ailored
Waists

$3.50 WdlSl Suuulu uu-
questionably have the regu-
lar shirt sleeve with cuffs two
and a half inches wide. The cuff
should fit snugly around the wrist.
but be sufficiently large to give the
muscles full play.
Neck fnishings ar of several
kinds, and while the stiff len col
lar will be greatly worn, the soft
collars are considered smarter and
are shown on nany of the newest
models.
When making these collars they
should be cut in one piece on the
straight of the material.
Do not curve the lower edge so
that it will set down below the
throat line. 1t must be curved at
the upper edge, however, to make it
at least half an inch higher in the
back than in the front.
This kind of a collar will be very
much prettier if made to fasten in
the back. even if the waist is but
toned in the front In this case the
collar can only be fastened to the
waist at one side; otherwise it
should be fastened all around. The
collars are made independent of the
waists and tackled to them by hand.
1t will be necessary to bone these
collars to keep them from crump-
ling. Cover the bones with a double
thickness of muslin, and place one
on each side of the center front
about three inches apart and sloping
toward the back so that they form a
V. Arrange the bones straight up
and down at the sides and back.
A new and pretty way to close
these collars is with the cloth but
tons and buttonhole loops. The
loops are worked on the inside edge
of the hem of the collar and do not
extend beyond the edge. This con-
ceals the buttons and makes a very
pretty finish.
If a small lead pencil is used in
making these loops it will be found
much easier to keep them the proper
size to slip over the buttons without
trouble Put the needle in the mate
rial and carry the thread over the
pencil to the opposite side. where
the needle is again drawn through
the material.
In this manner bring two or three
strands of the cotton over the pencil
before taking it out and commence
to buttonhole stitch the loop.
The Marie Antoinette waist, which
gets its name from the pleating
decorating it, continues to be worn.
The frills are used singly and dou-
BILE and vary in width from one to
three inches.
They are placed on one or both
sides of a narrow box pleat in front
and around the cuffs and collars.
Buttonholes are worked in the pieces
intended for the front. and they
may be buttoned on to the collar
and at the waist line.
All seams of shirtwaist should be
made with French fells. Finish the
bottom with a narrow hem. Above
all be careful in the working OF the
buttonholes.
Yokes and yoke effects are shown
in the back of many of the new
waists, and if a waist of that style
is being selected, it is well to bear
in mind that a waist with yoke
will wear much better than one
without it. If you have already Sc
lected one without this yoke. one
NAV be cut with very little trouble.
Cut a paper pattern from the up
ner part of the back of the waist.
and about three and half inches
below the shoulder part seams.
Slope it gracefully to short point
in the center back.
Both sides should be cut alike.
and after the material is shaped.
the lower edge turned in neatly and
basted, and then stitched firmly to
the back of the waist.