Richmond planet. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1883-1938, 1907-02-02

use OF any machinery or power except
common hand-saw. Having the rab-
bet sawed out. the work OF making a
hive body is almost done.
The mailing should be started upon
a perfectly fiat surface.
1t is best 20 have kind OF platform
little larger than the hive with
cieat tsrongly nailed at one edge) for
a bumper to nail against: and another
cleat strongly nailed at one edge) for
angles to the first one.
The mailing can be finished by turn.
Ing the hive on its side. and the hive
corners can be kept at right angles
by using a square. When the hive Is
nailed together. then put in the tin
rabbets
You need not gouge out any har
hoies by which 20 lift the hives. IL Is
easier to make cleats six or eight
inches long. planed on their upper
edges. and slanting outward and down
ward; with the ends whitfield round so
that they will shed water. One OF
these nailed on each end OF the hive
will make lifting the hive easy.
For cover and bottom boards | get
lumber IA inches in width. using the
best for covers and the poorest for
bottom boards. Sometimes make
the bottom OF two pieces.
All of the covers and bottom are
sawed exactly two feet long. and have
cleats two inches square nailed under
each end. The cleat at the back end
OF the bottom board Is nailed about
one-half inch from the end for coa-
venience in lifting. and the cleat in
the front Is nailed flush with the end
for the convenience OF the bees. The
cleats for the cover should be nailed
so as to give a play of about one
eighth inch.
Lath can generally be found OF the
right thickness to make the three
eighth inch bee space for the bottom
board II too thick II is not much
work 10 reduce them with a plane.
have never adopted the cheaper
way OF making a hive cap OF the same
size as the body.
Our caps are all made larger than
che bodies. and telescope on them In
the old way. The hive is little more
expensive. but We have a better fit.
and much better protection against
robbers, moths, cold etc.
An open joint will do in the sum-
mer. but in other seasons, especially
in spring. we want a well-closed cover.
A slight variation In the width and
depth of the hives Is immaterial. pro
vided. OF course. that the frames do
not come too close TO the bottom of
the hive. The important point is the
inside length from the front to the
back. This must oe accurate or the
frames viii not At. The two end
pieces should come between the sides
and, If necessary. be placed a little in
OF out TO secure exact length. The
supers are constructed in a similar
way.
The lumber for the hive frames
should be bought In long strips: sim.
ply ripped out of some boards. This
is much cheaper and is Just rs useful.
Provide a mitre-box; fit it at the
end OF a bench and adjust q stop.
block at the proper distance; take a
few strips at a time. put them in the
mitre-box. then push them until they
reach the stop, and saw of Keen on
repeating until you have enough
frames cut.
Cut the top and bottom pieces
square, and these should come be-
tween the end pieces. IL Is necessary
20 make the frames of an exact size.
so that they will be uniformly alike
and can be changed from one hive to
another.