The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-11-03

sAsHrstit vas black that had tho running.
then a brilliant ahad0 81 deep violet latelY
a vivid green has boom adopted, which In
somO few cnses I have Seon applied TO tho
nav felt shapes. mostly those OF a dAEk
I IRnd that the lining 10 mostly Of a hghtsr
color or shade than the hat.
~VSlvot takes tho lead a. a covering FOR
hat shapoa. nsvartheiens somothing will
also be done in other macsrialR. For fall
with dyed tnssor. and much the, same eject
is Obtained with terry and silk reps for
Most Of enc new high rovus ars wider
as tho base than ae tho tup. this being found
Eho most ~O0nvsnient shape against which
20 back uD the trimming, and By which
they are. AZ l have mid, always more or
less concealed. In some Of this n0w models
there 10 q tendency 20 Distribute the trim
ming equally round the crown instead Of
limiting IL merely 70 the front half a. has
been done lately. Both Aeyles promise %
DO equally fashionable.
sBandSaux continue 90 be merely covered
with ruchings 0f tnllo, which arc often
only placed There 20 give the hat n finished
are aRterward hidden by the wearsr's hair.
The new fashion Of browning the head
with q thick plat IL very useful In forming
a Arm basis to h hat. In nine Cases Gus
Of ten IL In . plait OF false hair, and I quite
gABgl8 W - ~ nAAoAgAN B1h1 ~ t11 INV
81 were the hnnches OF false Curlss
IAN the sweeping aiRrettes and other
plumes that have been lavished IN sum
msr hats are Co be- retained Tor the coming
season. but l arm glad TO note that they
arc arranged in the new models with sonle-
thing more OF taste and discretion. In
stead OF being put on in handfuls. al 1t
were. they are generally mounted more
OF less in the form or an amazon or else an
arOhed tail
Both long and abort ostrich feathers
are much in demand. h latter are some
times made up into q sort Of Prince OF
Wales plume with aigrette between. IL
10 to be noted that much Of his plunags
10 dyed in rather dark Oolors; some exhibit
two colors in a mixture or glace.
Swans plumage takes the glRce tints
extremely well. as do white cocks tail
Feathers These are curved into sickle
shape and then mounted In sprays OF three
or four feathers to each, and then again
to a common foundation stem.
Ribbons. when used to trim large hats.
are sometimes arranged somewhat after
the same method: a number Of loops OF
wide ribbon. or knots OF rather narrower
widths. being mounted together IN the
shape Of an amazon Ribbons. however.
are more used Tor the simpler styles OF
hats. Some OF thesS with narrow brims
and big high crowns have the ides OF the
latter boxed in with BOWS Of ribbon.
@FOr making the huge bows that fire.
AANNANAK g1NNA aAN@ hsS -
broad brimmed hats piece material IL pre-
kerrod to ribbon. It In cut on the cross
into bands measuring from eight to ten
inches in width and bOrdered with a double
fold in which ribbon wire il inserted.
"a thin light make Of glaoe taffeta 10
the material usually selected. but the border
il often satin. and has sometimes sew
to 10 little. silk balls dotted at intervals
along its edge. II is not unlikely that
this ball trimming may become quite a
feature and be extended to the edging Of
hats. The balls come in all colors.
similar bows are made for theatre
hats in cobweb tulle bordered with satin.
For the trimming OF such hats also thers
are rOsebuds md often small flowers In
silver or gold woven gauze mounted ON
long stems that look very pretty mixed
with aigrette OF cross.
There is quite a Juror just now for
shapes covered with old fashioned figured
c~retonnes. The material il stretched over
the foundation, which Of course has a high
rown. A broad ribbon matched TO q OF
the oolors in the cret0nne knotted about the
crown sufices for trimming.
They are being ordered in numbers for
seaside and country wear. Some people
are auguring therefore that next season
will bring in pattern materials IA hat cover
ings. but so far 1 have seen no sign that
such IL likely TO be the CASE
IL in noticeable hat In the simpler hats
the curled quilts are to be used more than
the straight ones, ~ are also the beautiful
soft wings.
Many OF the very smart hats are orna-
msnted with scarcely anything except tho
plumage of the goura bird. This bird 10 a
native of south America and 10 about the
size Of a chicken with plumage forming a
comb just like the ordinary rooster comb.
! This plumage used on hats for the coming
season is in the natural color. which 10 a
blue gray tipped with a slightly soiled vel
lowish shade. When placed pm a hat il has
the appearance OF a peacock's tail and is
most attractive.
The CRssowary feather is another most
expensive trimming, n when combined
with marabout makes a delightful soft
4 form OF trimming.
Among the different importers each has
! his pet idea OF the most important or lead
ing shade for the coming season. IL is most
generally conceded that the peculiar shade
Of violet called the crocus violet will lead.
and next the various shades of green.
! After these shades have been settled on
, il is amusing TO watch the struggle for su-
premacy in the remaining fashionable
shades. One importer thinks the new
Atlantic blue will be very strong. This biue
IL q shade all its own, being a little different
from the Allies or other shades near that
shade. inasmuch as there is the faintest
tinee OF green In Ii which gives il the mark
' ~ HfsNtVNOffOn