The daily morning journal and courier., 1907-03-30

toward fancy materials, the tendency toward elaborate trimming increases, and this applies to skirts as well as coats and waists. The more severe models make use of the bias bands, with or without piping, machine stitch ing and a great variety of shaped bands the latter playing an important part wherever there is an approch to tailored effects This mode of garniture is both novel and economical, although great skill is required in its execution. Some of the handsomest of the tailored Voile suits show thse shaped bands, perhaps plain, finished with machine stitching CT piped with a contrasting material, usually in one of the tones of the fabric, while later on, when We come to the wash suits, of linen and madras, we shall see these bands more than ever in evidence.
 The bodice or jacket partakes some what of the same decorations as shown in the skirt, but it is carried much far ther In fact, the ornamentation of the top part of a costume, whether coat or bodice is limited in its scheme and the amount of its decoration only by the Ingenuity of it's originator. Colored and natural laces, embroideries, braids plain and fancy buttons and all manner of otifs are cleverly eoffbined.
 The separate coat is not exactly a separate coat, either because, although of a different material from that of the skirt, it shows it's connection in some way and in the most exclusive models by its harmony of color. Coats belong ing strictly to suits are decorated with novel arrangements of braid surround ing cut-out designs of embroidery or lace and some of the French models show an extravagant use of buttons not alone on the coat, but on the skirt as we'll Pendant ornaments are in | high favor from the old-fashiOned ball fringe to equally old-fashioned frogs with long tufts dangling from them, and as these are duplicated in silk, wool and cotton, it is more than likely that they will be introduced into the summer modes.
 The question as to the popularity of serge always looms up when spring | fashions are under discussion, and as no fabric has yet arisen that quite takes its place, the question is always answered in the affirmative, as Is the case this year. This year the ''yes" is lmore distinct than for some years, Dark blue and white serges will have first place. In fact, serge is always al it's best in white and blue. The i'm lported models are very elaborately trimmed with silk braid in severa,
 widths. In some of them a bit of color is introduced, and gold or silver is not lacking in the combination.
 Some very original suggestions in the use of all-over baby Irish lace are noted
 in the white serge suits, as the follow.
 less excited and had almost chased hei ing description of one of the most re- cent and exclusive importations vii
 show. There was skirt closely kilted all around. and stitched third of its length Just where the stitching end ed triangular shaped piece of baby
 Irish was inset and outlined with braid
 turned into little scrolls at each angle The body of the hip-length coat was
 
 plaited; the plaits, instead of being stitched down, were held in place by a narrow stitched band, stimulating belt and giving to the garment the high waist-line of the Empire design. Two triangular shaped pieces of lace, like those in the skirt, accentuated the seams of the French back, while two long, straight bands bordered with the braid formed the fronts. The sleeves were three-quarter length, and with very little fu1lness at the tops, were finished at the bottom with pointed cuffs formed of the lace and braid. This same design Is shown in new linen models.
 To return to the subject of what, for want of better name, we term the separate wrap, far and away the most popular are those of silk, and the glossy silks at that. There are either short or long, the former for dress oc- casions, of which there are two types, 1 the semi-fftting and that which takes on more of the style of bodice. Both Of these coats are generally constructed of shade matching the costume with which they are to be worn, and are es- pecially adapted to marquisette, peau de cygne, voile, and satin duchesse.- c. A. M in New York Evening Post.