The Washington herald., 1907-08-29

Il ALDLAk
The farther humanity progresses be-
yond the Golden Age. the more utilitarian
we expect things TO become. In that ideal
period OF sang and story. where flowing
draperies were the correct form of dress.
button was an ornament that caught
the toga on the shoulder. but really had
very little TO do with holding it there.
When the commercial spirit of Queen
Elizabeth's time set minds to inventing
things. it occurred to some one that
button might be useful as well as orna-
mental especially if it could be forced
through a small opening ana be per-
suaded to hold parts Of a garment to-
gether So a thrifty soul invented the
button-hole Then the button became an
important factor in the revolutionizing OF
styles in garments and has made clothes
simpler and more convenient
Gold and ivory were the materials first
used. and only the man OF woman of
means might have so rich an ornament
IN the middle Of the eighteenth century
inlaid and steel ones appeared. and though
they were often elaborate, they were yet
In reach of a greater number of people
than before. Wooden discs, covered with
silk or other cloth. became widely popu-
lar. In the time Of George III of England
the demand for buttons became so great
that it was hard to supply the home. and
continental and American markets from
the English factories. and expert work
men soon commanded from so to $40
day, and one small factory turned out
500 worth a week.
There seems to be little connection be-
tween Lord Nelson Of the English navy
and the manufacture OF buttons, yet be
cause he went to lombard Copenhagen in
1907 and incidentally ruined the business
Of one b. Sanders. a new button factory
sprang up in England. For Sanders went
into the country Of the enemy to begin a
new career. and invented a new kind of
button. This was made in two parts. the
upper Of metal covered in cloth, the lower
or metal alone; the two were then firmly
welded together and shank or eye added
to the under side by which 1t was to be
less have been able 10 offer this button
as compromise to all parties had he
lived in the time of William and Mary
FOR those monarehs legislated against
cloth buttons and encouraged the manu-
facture of metal ones so as to give an
impetus to metal industries.
America did not begin the manufacture
Of buttons as early as she did other
things. Most housewives made the
cloth-coyered ones themselves. and so
added to their reputation for economy.
BY 1850, however. Caspar Wistar, Of Phil
adelphia. had an establishment for the
making Of brass buttons and Just before
the year 1850 Samuel and Silas GrilIey
opened the first real button factory in
this country. They chose Waterbury.
Conn, for the site of their plant. and
that city has since led all other American
ones In the manufacture Of this commod-
lty- The Grilley Brothers used cast iron.
TN, and pewter for materials, and many
an Old pewter porringer and spoon that
would be OF great value To- collectors now
adays, found its way INTO the GriIlev
metal pots. just as old stills and copper
Kettles went into the factory Of Abel Por-
ter q Company TWO years later when the
trst brass buttons on this side Of the
ocean were being made.
one or Americas most enterpTisinp- but
Ton manufacturers was Samuel Williston.
Wllliston was studying for the ministry
when his eyes suddenly failed. and his
wiIe mad TO earn their support by cover
ing wooden buttons with bits OF cloth.
The tediousness OF this hand work sug
10
would minimize the labor and increase
the profits, SO he perfected a device for
doing the work. This was in the middle
OF the nineteenth century and in less
lhdn quarter century his factories at
EaSthampton, Mass, were making half
the buttons used in this country At the
age OF seventy-fve Willlston had amassed
fortune Of S5,0O0.0OO or S6.OOO00O.
50 varied are the materials used in
making buttons that if the average wo-
name would collect all these useful ar
ueles In her wardrobe and subject them
10 analysis. she would make some inter
esting and startling discoveries. The but
tons Of ivory that she has had decorated
in some high-priced studio. she can. of
course, classify as readily as she can the
1eweled ones on her gowns Of state, the
pearl ones on her linen dresses, and the
cut STEEL on her walking suit. Mother of
pearl, glass. porcelain, and brass she
might know at glance. but there are
others not so easy to classify She would
doubtless turn up her dainty nose on dis
p covering that some very presentable but
tons she has were made from the hoofs
and horns of cattle. the material
being softened by boiling in water and
shaped by hydraulic pressure after being
cut in discs. Other buttons under the
chemists analysis would prove to be
made from composition OF blood or
from the casein product of skim-milk.
or from brown seaweed gathered on the
coast OF Massachusetts.
Vegetable ivory, the fruit of a South
American palm. brought by shin from
Colon. has long been a favorlte material
Tor button making. For thirty years
now, an excellent imitation Of this has
been made OF gums mixed with com
minuted carbonate of lime and mica or
feldspar. Irish potatoes with certain
acids harden into a clear creamy white
material that Is almost indistinguishabIe
from vegetable ivory. and has conse-
quently made a strong bid for place
among materials. Horn has been IN non
ular use for over 200 years, while the
invention thirty years ago, Of machine
for making holes in buttons has in
creased the popularity Of that as well
as ether Ike materials. for up to that
time all the holes had been drilled by
hand.
1t was the fresh water mussel shell
that gave this country Importance as