The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30
SHORT SLEEVES STILL SEEN
BUT GETTING LONGER-SIGNS OF
A COMING CHANGE.

SiN
The sleeve OF large armhole and dropping
shoulder. which lie in any one of it's many
forms merely a modification Of the Kimdno
sleeve, has been the sleeve novelty par eX-
cellenoe during tile spring and still retains
its prestige. though the exaggeTations Of
this mode ave been somewhat toned down
n the later developments OF the idea are
more generally becoming than the more
radical models were.
The extreme type is still retained in many
coats and wraps. but bodices. while retain
ing the long shoulder line, achieved by
shoulder drapery or trimming or by an over
sleeve cut in one with the shoulder, avoid
the bunchiness which characterized many
OF the early models.
In many instances it is impossible to show
the construction of the sleeve without CIV
ing a sketch Of the entire bodice. but we
have selected from successful model frocks
a group Of attractive sleeves which may
offer welcome suggestions.
In a vast majority Of cases the modish
sleeve assumes the form Of oversleeve and
underSleeve and one OF the latest rumors
from Paris tells OF several great dress
makers who are vouching for close fitting,
wrinkled, transparent undersleeves reach
Ing well down over the hand. Doubtless
the things will come.
Already the short sleeve has had a longer
lease Of favor than is usually accorded to a
mode and it is time to expect a change:
80 this tentative long undersleeve may
be an opening wedge which will have serious
consequences in the coming winter. How
ever, that remains to be seen, and for the
present women are loyal to the short sleeve
either in elbow or three-quarter length.
Save in evening bodioes and other frocks
Of very dressy character the extremely
short sleeve has very generally given place
to a sleeve which at least covers the point
Of the elbow and very often comes well
below It. In coats and street frocks the
three-quarter length is almost universal
when a full length sleeve is not used, as it
iG, in the severely tailored coat.
II a coat sleeve end at the elbow, as il
does in certain dressy coats Of Louis XIV.
suggestion, it is supplemented by an under
sleeve 81 lace or net, as In the sleeve sketched
here. With a haring cuff such as is indi-
Gated in this sleeve the elbow length il
correct and the sleeve should be wide
enough to admit OF a full undersleeve.
The fulness Of the fashionable sleeve
has gradually crept down the arm from
shoulder to elbow n now one sees many
a sleeve dropping to it's widest point Just
above the elbow. instead Of assuming the
sipot lines 90 long in vogue. but this is not
Altogether the case. A charming sleeve
model which IL used with various modi1ca-
lions droops slightly at the shoulder. with a |
can OF material like that OF the bodice. but
this cap is wide and short and below IL
the sheer mousseline sleeve narrows gradu- |
ally to a point we'll below the elbow.
In the frock from which has heen sketched
O sleeve Of this class h sleeve was almost
Of t~hree-quarter length. Ali down the in
side seam the sheer. sleeve is laid in little
horizontal plaits and the fulness at the
outer edge is gathered softly, falling in
little iabotkke frills down the outside of
the arm.
A draped puff Of frook material sur
mounts a close. wrinkled, transparent
undersleeve in certain French models, the
undersleeve extending for several inches
below the elbow; but quite in contrast TO
the lines Of this sleeve is another popular
French undersleeve model made OF soft
chiffon or silk mousseline and falling straight
and full. Naturally, its folds follow the
line Of the arm rather closely. but 1t is held
In tightly to the arm just below the elbow,
the fulness falling low over the band. which
10 often OF fine elastic run through a narrow
hem, 90 that the full yet clinging sleeve
10 quite untrimmed.
Oversleeves -slashej up the outside to
show a full transparent undersleeve are
plentiful to the point OF monotony but
allow for considerable variety Of detail.
Such a slashed oversleeve often has it's cor
ners turned back in reverse fashion and
caught with ornamental buttons. Often,
too, these turned back sleeve corners are
embroidered or faced with contrasting
color.
The average undersleeve is a puff Of soft
transparent stuff held in by a band at the
elbow and this puff is trimmed, II at all.
many fine horizontal tucks, by tucks and
inset lace insertion or by lace frills.
So ubiquitous is the undersleeve trimmed
in lace frills or composed wholly Of deeper
lace frills that it is said TO be largely re-
sponsible for the scarcity OF good valen-
ciennes edgings. and the vogue Of the lace
frill undersleeve has helped to bring the
net top laces once more into prominence.
frills may be used in place Of shirred
frills, and these are particularly pretty in
a very sheer material such as silk muslin
or finest lingerie stuff with hemstitched
edges, which may or may not be finished
by narrow edging Of real yalenciennes
Undersleeves made with several rather
deep frills Of fine embroidery edging and
with ~valenciennes two or three inches
wide frilled under the deep scalloped edge
Of each embroidery frill are attractive for
OF linen. and undersleeves Of very
allover English embroidery, held in
by a broad band Of beading through which
ribbon is run TO be tied in iuttering knots
At the elbow. are also attractive n prac-
teal for the linen frock.
French makers use such undersleeves
as this, but hand embroidered in open
work design upon the sheerest bstlste or
linon. in connection with dressy frocks Of
silk or wolfe and lingerie materials, en-
broidered and lace trimmed, figure promi-
nently among the guimpe and undersleeve
models even Of elaborate afternoon gowns.
Soft pufTs Of chiffon or other sheer ma
terial, finished with double lace frills run
ming around the bottom and all the way
the outside Of the sleeve, are always