New-York tribune., 1907-08-11
RESTAURANT FADS.
II Great Variety of Tastes Catered
to IN This Big City.
By NJ. W. Mount.

Possibly a restaurant for cannibals is the only
thing yet lacking in GOtham's outfit of eating
places. So far the nearest approach to cannlpal
feast is the boiled live lobster. The craze for DIN
ing in so-called bohemian restaurants has greatly
subsidized among the smart set, who took something
of aversion to these inelegant resorts after a
few attempts had been made by downtown toushs
of the hands of visitors in order TO possess
the rings upon them. Now these places are
crowded by persons who live in the suburbs or
by strangers seeing the sights Of the city 1t takes
something distinctly in the bohemian line 10
draw representative New YFkers to the place
This something new is now being furnished oy
Russian teahouse the East Side, Where the
signs and sounds fOreign-to say nothing OF
the sights and smells.
Kommepyeckar Locinhhnlia is the name of this
teahouse. 1t is one easy TO remember because only
a Russian could repeat it, There are Russian COOKS
and Russian walters, in costumes consisting OF
crimson shirts white collars, red sashes ana loose
black bloomers fastened at the knee.
The entrance hall appears as though an un-
trained impressionist had passed through 1t with
his brush 1t is bright and many colored Up
stairs garlands Of flowers wave from the celnngs
and palms stand around the spacious moor. hun
dreds of persons have been turned away at times
for want of squeezing at the tables. They
wanted to taste Russian vodka-so hot as to make
one feel as though a furnace had been swallowed
II is affirmed that this is just the rlght kiilu OF
a drink for Russia-especially for Siberia Each
vodka glass stands in bowl to eaten the over
fow is explained that the bowls are LOT uil-
steady hands. Also that they conserve the nuld
to supplement the glass, when it is empty and are
economical in that the tablecloths are Kept dry
for the next
we have not imported any cold drinks, GER
tainIy' explained the host 1T is a long Journey
from Russia: they would melt the way Here
salanka is served 1t is something like chop suey.
made with plenty of green herbs, "oniy much pet
fer" saw the Russians Another notable dish Is
borsch made of cabbage and other things that mix
up TO make a toOthsome morsel. RuDlenia kathaty
and OF hinna katliaty represent veal outlets ana
another meat dish, with ingredients such as New
York has never tasted before. Musicians IN Rus
sian costume play Russian music at the repasts.
and three nights in the week Russian quartet OF
men and women sing native melodies. certainly
it vii, rival the grand opera"' exclaimed an en-
thusiastic Russian. .
The new bill of fare is being struggled with IL
is to be in both Russian and English. AT present
English has been secured, but the Russian names
seem TO have tangled up the printers. for they
haven't been untangied yet Untranslatable Rus
sian dishes-and most OF them such-wil serve
10 whet the appetite upon the English size or the
bill of fare. 1t is suggested that as long as 'heS
are dgestble, what does ii matter Whethef man
knows what he is eating?
Perhaps the most Russian part of this new care
is the chic, or tea house proper. This is great
institution IN Russia, where chies dot the land
scape of every town Here Russ and Tartar. COS
sacks and persons from Tobolsk foregather over
great glasses Of tea-all sorts Of tea, much OF II
the sort that would he ruled out of the refresh
nent rooms of temperance societies. This will be
served all night. for the native Russian Hkes 10
50 for hours drinking his favoTite beverage. OF
which a large pot may be had for 10 cents. Inc
head waiter OF the chic has been imported from
the Cafe Comerchesky in odessa after which the
New York chic is patterned Al night. with eief-
and leaves upon the bright decorations and brilliant
garbs Of walters and dancing girls. the chic forms
& vivid spot OF color in the monotonous mono
chrome Of East Side existence.