New-York tribune., 1907-07-07
NEW FORMS OF SWISS.
Almost Amything scith Embroidered
Dots Is Considered MOdish.

PaT1S, June 20
Plumetis originally the for dotted
Swiss muslin, but this It represents large
variety of dress goods-in fact. almost anything
with embroidered dots. Most of these materials
make up into toilets not all reminiscent of the
original simple dotted muslin, for the two follow
ing examples by no means extreme.
The first shows that most fashionable combina-
ton, pure white and flesh color. The material Is
white silk wolfe and the trimming flesh colored
batiste embroidered in raised dots in the same
shade This is set in with cord in the same color
to make border about the bottom of the skirt
running up in a scroll pattern behind and the
sides as far as the front breadth. The bodice. a.
blouse with short Japanese sleeves. is heavily dec
grated in the way. A shot brown and gold
taffeta makes the draped belt
The second gown is gay the first Is sombre
and is good illustration of the sensational modes
as turned out by well known houses The ma
terial is a plumets muslin, white. dotted with
black. and the bottom of the skirt Of pink toile
which unites with the muslin in big scallops as
high as the knees on each side. The point Of
Joining IS covered with an appIiqued cretonne pat
tern in DUH shades OF and pale green and tho
solid rose part of the skirt is trimmed with pat
tern In bias bands The bodice draped loosely into
high belt falls into big half sleeves finished with
rose bands and the flower application and there is
an inner vest OF lace over a depassement Of pale
green silk.
Ribbon the excessive Use of which has long been
too important adjunct of dressmakng to cause
any comment includes this year among it's other
oddities whole gowns and wraps. The Peking
gauzes are initiated by sewing black and whito
satin ribbon on q foundation OF mousselne dc solo,
and lace gowns are made up with lines of ribbon
and entredeux. The more usual use of ribbon is
in trimming. and this seems to be more extensive
than ever before Often gown VIII be trimmed
with plain ribbon with a pOmpadour ribbon for
the belt.
Among the smart items in the summer wardrobe
tsaTea tme OaTa a 1T may be
eraI term. which seems to include any loose. half
long garment hanging from the shoulders. The
casaque has as rule. short, loose sleeves. but
often It IS finished with extensions the shoul-
ders. An odd example has very full skirts at
tached to full body, with no sleeves beyond
shoulder straps.
The tailored form of the black taffeta garment
is half-ntted. but on tho lines Of n short habit
and with rounded coattas. That these coattails
shall spring a good deal from the sheathiike
skirt beneath is the stamp of the modish tailor.
This sort Of garment may have long sleeves.
with pointed. turned cuffs and triple pointed
collar. This gives a mousquetaire suggestion. An
other example Of the same garment has deep
shoulders as long as those OF the 6o9 and straight
long sleeves. ornamented with buttons on the ont
side of the arms. The coattails, too. are slashed
and buttoned each side
This deep shoulder and straight sleeve is M Cd
dity that few smart women have recently
launched. II is. Of course. the old sleeve of the
Second Empire worn with close skirts I'm place or
the crnolincs then in vogue. The effect is chic
but Il IS model that can be attempted only by
slender and elegant women.
Long sleeves arc rarely seen at present. but they
are very modish-that IS, they are worn only ny
women who wear ultra modes. Undoubtedly they
will be firmly established before winter. and In
tho whero the short sleeve IS worn IL Will
~ completed
that the dressrakers use on their models are
really trying: some are straight and not too tight
and others are full. with narrow wristband and
big armhoe. Both Of these ideas date back to
the COS.
The time was when a certain kind OF sleeve
meant a certain skirt. but the modes seem no
longer logical. Skirts are full about the hcm
esnccially short skirts. but the woman % to-day
will not hear Of anything except the sheath upper
skirt. In this way the figure retains its slender
ness and full shoulders balanced by tho breadth
in tho bottom OF the skirt
The cold season may he responsible for the vogue
OF the separate outside garment but certainly now
th0t such beautiful ones have been devised they
viii not be put aside. There are the most exquisite
half-long. semi-htted conts OF crepe de Chine or
moussoline de sole covered with embroidery
braided and trimmed with passcmenterie These
In some light color and are with lingerie
or lace gowns. Generally the hat and parasol
catch the habit.
favor with dressnakers. while others
that the fashion has had it's day. Nevertheless It
IS pretty idea when nicely carried out, II IS
some OF the summer gowns.
\ novel idea on sleeveless casaque is a rever
which turns over under the arm. suggesting the
lines OF bolero. and trimmed with a row OF small
fancy buttons. one model is Of rather heavy white
toile embroidered I'm fine white silk braid. 1t IS
quite "a bit shorter than the kneeS the fashionable
over the shoulders the garment consists simply Of
narrow hretellcs
The latest idea In millinery IS tho hat OF white
calico dt is nothing clse) trimmed with two or
three choux Of shaded velvet This is IS smart rs
possible. and will be until too freely copied. This
hat follows the lines Of the coche. for nothing
seems TO destroy the popularity OF this shape