davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-27
The New Craze for Old Pewter

and now present in their shops old
mugs and plates for the decoration or
dining g-rooms. Indeed. they appear
most charming when placed against
brilliant backgrounds. II should be
remembered when purchasing. however.
that many a piece Of pewter Is Sold as
an antique when in truth It has been
but lately made. The cost of an antique
piece is nearly double that Of one
known to be modern.
The innumerabIe small boxes. for
which there is nearly always room for
ono more. arc modern. with few ex-
ceptions. They are at the same time
pleasing and useful and make most
acceptable gifts. Travellers bringing
pewter articles from the other side
find to their sorrow sometimes At the
New YORK sCustOm- house tnat there IS
an unhinching so per cent duty on the
ware Two or three Of the smaller ar
tieles however arc allowed 10 be
brought in free They can. naturally,
be bought much cheaper in Europe
than in this country
One Of the charms Of pewter ar
ticles is that 1t is so easy to keep
them clean good rubbing with
chamois every fortnight or three weeks
is all .hat they require OF course. 1t
Il never desirable that pewter should
chime like silver. Its tones are soft
and gray. and the finish should be
without Iuster. This desire for a dull
finish. however. has now spread its
wings over many things commended BY
fashion.
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-27

gowns these wells arc unusual and
beautiful Ono of these gowns which
IS awaiting p function worthy Of its
appearance is made 2 IS modified priu-
cess and has The veil hung over white
satin covering tho entire length or the
front. The rest Of the gown is Of vel
vet harmonizing with tho most deli
cate tones Of green la the beetles
backs. Indeed. this gown Is SO bril-
liant that Jewels viii be laid aside
whenever ii is worn.
Another woman who has had the
dexterity necessary 10 purchasing one
OF these wells in Egypt regards il as
too precious 20 hack otit I'm p bali gown,
the weight Of tho beetles backs on the
thin net causing il to be very perish
able. She VIII use her veil. therefore.
as a shoulder scarf during formal din
ners and at the opera
The women OF the harem, FOR whom
these wells are made, only wear them
on unusual occasions. and delight in
them, because beetles have ever been
objects OF interest in Egypt and are
used in various ways for personal
adornment.
Many boleros embroidered IN gold or
silver and characteristic Of Egyptian
art arc being used this winter as dec
orauons for tea gowns and other house
gowns The most beautiful OF these
boleros are made also by the women o.
the harcn, and can he recognized from
the ordinary ones soldsin bazazrs from
the fact that no stitches show on their
right sides. The sewing down Of gold
or silver cord is done entirely from the
under sides. and the embroidery ap-
pears TO rest on the upper sides Of the
boleros as though by magic.
The inexpensive boieros are worked
by men in the bszsars and cannot com
pare in deiicacy or beauty with those
done by the harem women.
Light-coiored silks and cashmerea
lend themselves as artistic combina-
tions for these boleros. When, more
over, a short house gown is designed
for the use of one q feature is some
times made of having two knee sasbes
hang down in front, as being suggest
I've OF Oriental costumes.
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-27
Haren Wells for Ball Gowns

- TNCE FOR several winters the fash
ion Of going TO Egypt for FIVE or
six weeks has bern observed, and
- since this fashion has barely
souched fts zenith, it is, perhaps. no
wonder that rare materials and tex
fr-es are beginning TO be seen dec
Grating tho ball gowns of ultrsfsshion-
able women. or these materials the
most novel end costly are tho soft net
wells enbroldered by the women OF
Egyptian harems.
The original purpose OF such wells IS
an exclusive one. They arc made by
the women OF lower degree IN the
hareFn for the fsvOrite or favorites OF
she moment The supply OF them,
therefore, is very limited. and IL is a
certainty that those brought 10 this
country have most ignominiously sue
cunlbed TO the extravagsnce OF the
American purse.
Many Of these white not wells, 1T for
a queens coronation, are covered with
the hard luminous parts Of beetles
backs, placed at regular intervals and
strapped across by threads OF gold. The
erect IS sfrikineIy brilliant. as these
Insects backs arc ss changing in cOlor
al the oDsl while at the same time they
spsrkle like diamonds From palest
hiue and green they intensity TO sap
Y,hire and purple. and again change in
zone from shell pink 10 bright red and
deep wine color. Sometimes beetles
hacks are split. and the two OBJ
long sections which are then embroid-
ered on the net suggest lively looking
spangles.
when showing her hsrem veil 20 a
friend one careless woman is amusing
" related 70 have said: The beetle
happens TO be a common bird in Egypt"
II would be a daring woman indeed
who ventured TO have a gown made
entirely OF such beetle-emb mbroidereo
,,eile. The effect would be too startling
and not in good taste for the uses OF
society. As bodice oraperies. however,
with the ends hanging down the back.
or for q panel effect in the front of ball
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-27
DINNER GOWN OF LIBERTY oCATN WITH
VENETIAN LACE

the dresslnaking part or tne gown need
not present insurmountable difHcultiss-
Broeades and Embroideries
The superb brocade gowns. always
fashionable, are once again to be pop
ular. and the beauty OF the fabric
shows to the greatest advantages IN ths
simple lines OF many of the most at
tractive models OF the winter. The
empire. suggested rather than defined.
is especilly charming in gown OF
white or yellow brocade. trimmed only
with fine lace on the waist; the skirt.
without any trimming whatever fall
ing in unbroken lines. The upper part
of the waist is draped in horizontal
folds over the lace. for the waist a
cut eNaggeratedly low at the bust and
filled in with lace which comes over
the shoulders from the V-Shaped point
at the back. There is bowkn0t work
in silver thread across the lace and on
each shoulder is bOWknot that ef-
fictently holds in place the big wing
like sleeves of lace that fall down over
the skirt either leaving the upper part
Of the arms bare or diselosing a tight
fitting sleeve OF net. This is a style
that shows to perfection the beauty OF
material. coloring and design, and at
the same time is effective in the less
expensive silks and satins. However.
it must be admitted that rather more
elaborate style that requires the aid OF
satin or velvet trimmings is the more
satisfactory for the cheaper material
The pompadour silks are good In
vestments at the present moment and
the odd shades are TO be carefully
sought as they make up in more dis
tinctive effect than the rather more
ordinary designs. The queer two
toned colorings. shading from blue to
mauve and with strange lowered de-
signs. arc extremely smart and not al
ways too expensive. They are suitable
for the simple styles of evening gowns
to be worn now and VIII be most use
ful in the summer season. as they are
in keeping with the picturesque fash
ions that are so rapidly gsining A hold
on popular favor Plain and satin
finished crepe De chine are the best to
choose. for. ODDLY enough. the figured
ones never make UP so satisfactorily
and arc generally more expensive also.
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-27

-E r the present moment veritable
passion is raging for pewter.
antique pewter. of course. when
it can be secured, and when not
for the innumerable modern trihes
which are being made in the stuff. The
shop windows of Paris and other large
cities are now showing all the de-
1ightful knicknackery in pewter that
silver. Bonbonnieres, trays. ash re-
cefvers. hairpin boxes, plates. mugs
and small figures are among the list
OF small pieces which come within the
financial reach Of many. They arc pre-
sented in various shapes and designs,
and with few exceptions. arc modelled
after antique pieces. Hanging baskets
double wresths and turtle doves appear
on trays. recalling the Louis Nv deco
ration, while lions rampant and ex-
oufsite f1eur de lis are IS we'll skiIlfuIll-
wrought in pewter.
Indeed there is said to be about
pewter a softHess and piiability which
make it a delightful material in which
to model ScpIptors in Paris have
worked out in pewter some of their
best designs and exhibited them along
side OF those in bronze and marble.
AS rule. however, it is small figures,
from three to seven inches high. and
after the antique, which are most at
tractivc in pewter.
Collectors have greatly bestirred
themselves with this rage for pewter
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-27

The ingenuity OF the modiste Is per
haps more taxed :n the designing 81
dinner and ball gowns than in my
other depa rtment Of thought Thers
are certain definite rulos which must
be followed in every evening gown
and this year especially there seems 20
be little 10 build upon 70 accentuate
the unlikeiiness OF really elaborate
dinner gown from bail dress o. any
description: and yet Dame Fashion de
crces that tho two must be kept abso-
lutely separate and distinct and there
arc very few who dare disobey those
stern mandates.
There are 81 is true. two different
styles or evening dress. the ono Intended
for a large formal dinner and the COS
tune designed Tor dinner AZ fashion
able restaurant. 10 be followed proba-
bly, by ? visit to the play. The latter
dress borders closely upon tho thester
costume or reception dress. being ia
reality = cross between the two. For
merlv & was not considered good form
10 he too onspicuouslv gowned IN any
public place but this idea has vanished
with the fashions or other years. and
today the lightcst and most effective
gowns are necessary Tor the restaurant
dinner. IN America high cut evening
gown is always obligatory a restau-
rant. although there may be a collar
iess yoke 20 the bodice to allow OF The
high dog collar or string OF pearls
showing Up with best possible effect.
If there is a collar at all II should be
as high as comfort will allow, and
collar and yoke are always transparent
IN this style Of dress. Liberty satin.
embroidered with chiffon. satin. lace.
brocade. al popular evening fabrics,
in fact. are seen in this high dinner
dress. There arc numberless pink
gowns this year. always iD a deep or
bright shade. ard the yellows. blues
and whites are as plentiful as ever
White or deep cream lace made in
some way suggestive OF the empire
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-27

MONG the charming hair orna-
~ ments now in vogue are those in
three pieces, FOR young girls. one
for each side of the part and the
third for the back. where the
hair is gathered into tight bunch of
eurls or waves on the nape of the neck.
These hair ornaments are necessarily
not elaborate, but consist simply of
lunches OF small rosebuds. single large
roses. punches of leaves. etc. They are
not spangled or SNOWY although some
times trimmed with q few crystal
drops. Another coiffure ornament for a
young girl is especially adapted TO one
wearing her hair i'm a roll around tho
back and pompadour in front. Ii is a
bandeau Of gold or broeaded or gauze
ribbon, fitting we'll down over the head,
tied in a knot and with two short ends
in the middle OF the back of the head.
IN the middle of the front OF the ban
deau there is an ornament. either a
large flower, a pair OF little gauze
wings or a bow OF ribbon. This orna-
ment. instead OF being placed directly
in front, may go 70 one side OF the
front.
Also for a young girl whose hair is
worn low on the nape OF the neck and
parted in front with a side curl is a
coiffure ornament of ribbon and roses.
The ribbon is made into a square sort
of butterfly bow, fastened well down
on the left side OF the head and quite
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-27

~ LTHOUGH in It's true meaning
simplicity may be forgotten
grace. whether pertaining solely
10 tho field ~ dress or 20 tho
broader world OF fashion. yet the word
IS still necessary for thc comparison OF
zhe over-elaborate with the article in
perfect taste. BY this it is not meant
that elaboration is 10 be avoided Tor III
cleverly worked out the effect Of elab-
oration is frequently the one aim 10 be
desired. but 10 point out just when
the elaborate IS 10 he sought and when
simplicity is IN better form.
when 81 comes 10 p question OF dress
Az is difficult to state exactly when the
gown should ne elaborate Nothing 80
clearly shows tho great advance !u the
science OF dress or SO clearly distin-
Euishes the clever from tho inexperi-
enced dressmslIer as the way ia which
the effect Of exquisite simplicity may be
obtained through real elaboration. As
q r. necessary 20 employ very much the
same materials in such different STYLES
OF dress. and IS there are. comparative
1y speaking, 50 few models fashionable
at the one time, il is most interesting
20 notice how such varied effects are
obtained in calling and reception COS
TUNES. for example and how even the
amateur can distinguish at once the
difference between a handsome dinner
gown and the least elaborate bah dress.
The cut and the length OF sleeves and
train have. OF course. something 10 do
with it and yet frequently little details
will be borrowed from one style OF
dress for another. vet the two viii still
be altogether different
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-27
Cloth of Gold and Silver

one noticeably attractive dinner
gown was OF figured chiffon trimmed
with point applique lace and made in
the empire model. The chiffon had a
white ground and was bordered with a
trellis of black and white stripes; over
white climbed large pink and yellow
roses. while scattered apparently at
random over the body OF the skirt were
little bowknots of pale blue. Over the
white lining the blsck stripes seemed
a soft steel gray so that the empire
Girdle was of the same gray shade of
satin and in the back passed thrdagh
tiny rhinestone buckles, The lace
sleeves were verx short. finished off
with sot bands Or the satin looped
through rhinestone buckles like those
on the back OF the bodicc. Lace fell
az ar the sleeves. aud in front was A lii
tie lace guimpe or vest on which were
laid three straps Of gray satin pass
ing through rhinestone buckles.
Cloth OF gold and cloth Of silver are
immensely popular as fabrics for the
newest evening gowns The material
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-27
Frocks Of FIowered Sic

Crepe de chine and flowered silks are
a boon to the forced to be economical
woman, for there are so many different
shades of color in the one and patterns
in the other as to make it by no means
Impossible to have an attractive even
ing gown without being wickediy ex-
travagant. OF course. there is no limit
to the amount of money that can be
spent in the more expensive grades of
lowered and brocaded silks and satins.
while in crepe de chine as well the wide
field OF expense is decidedly aIluring:
but these are sales when crepe de chine,
and in most fascinating shades. can be
bought at absurdly low prices. while in
the silk sales il merely means the eN-
pcnditure of time and taste to choose
an effective coIorinS and design. Zig
ured net aud Just bit Of handsome
lace. with ribbons and bright buttons.
comprise all the trimmings needed. and
for the crepe de chine net the same
color on the waist and sleeves is eN-
tremeIy smart and effective. and no
lace is needed. Furthermore il there
be a silk lining that has already done
duty. provided 1t fits and hangs we'll,
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-27

models that are sometimes ever Shead
OF the fashion of the moment, but she
does not conf1ne her energies or her
talents to buying madeup gowns, for
she knows this is the season of year
to discover rare treasures in materials
and trimmings at ridiculously small
cost. Embroidered laces- fancy boleros.
f1chus. bretelles and all sorts OF attrac-
tive adornments are to be had. such as
viii trim UP last seasons ball gown and
make il look like new, and every one
knows the wonders that can be
wrought with new broad satin Eirdle
and sash ends ornamented with bril-
liant rhinestone buttons or buckle 4
broad girdle and sash ends is in fash
ion at the moment and certainly does
go far in making an otherwise shabby
gown look fresh and smart. so that the
investment in ribbon and effective but
tons and huckles at this time OF year is
certainly wise and prudent Both the
plain and the pompadour ribbons are
attractive for this purpose. and there is
no end OF most fascinating designs OF
color and pattern to choose from.
The San Francisco call., 1907-01-27
Er1Fds1H7EEsED 41r3r Fc11cF
VELVET

beneath soft fold provided the waist
is Ndraped across front and back--or
else the joining is hidden by piping
OF silk or velvet.
The Washington herald., 1907-09-14
An Important Discovery.

We have the Baltimore Americana
word for it that a machine has been dis
covered by a Cambridge professor
which is designed successfully to cure
liars" We should not accept this story
at its face value did it come from any
less reputable source. but having seen
it in the American, we must perforce
conclude that it is true
1t is to be hoped, however. that its use
viii be intelligently limited when it is
thrown on the market and that radical
cures will be attempted only in the cases
Of those afflicted with habits of malicious
Justification. gossiping, and other forms
Of pTevarication that produce unques-
toned bad results and work actual harm.
In many respeCts-espeCially in this day
and time-the liar is a great and indis-
pensable institution, and his removal from
scenes Of activity would considerably
lessen the gayety Of the nations and per
haps bring a note of discOrd into the
music of the spheres. We are indebted
to the falsehood brigade for many loud
laughs and well-developed outlaws dur
ing the past few months The Ananias
Club, indeed, is now recognized as one
of our most illustrious institutions and
membership therein has come TO be
something Of "a badge of distinction.
Without genuemen-and sometimes
The Washington herald., 1907-09-14
DEMOCRATIC REVISION.
Prediction that It Would Wreck the
Party a Second Time.

From the Portland Orszanian.
II the Democratic party should gain
power. We should stm have a high pro-
tectiVe tariff, only It's terms would be-
changed. TO suit particular local inter
ests dear TO Democratic constituencies.
at the expense of local interests dear to
Republican constituencies. This is JUST
what was done during Mr. Clevelands
second administration and it would be
repeated. with repetition Of the conse-
queuce that the last state of the tariff
would be more unsatisfactory 70 the
country than the frs. In other words.
the Democratic party would make an
other 'perfdy and dishonor" tariff.
But tariff change must come some
time, and the question is. what party is
10 make it2 II Republicans make IT, the
change VIII give their party a violent
wrench-whether fl Doe just before or just
after "a Presidential election The party
leaders. Of course would prefer 10 risk
it just after. II the Democratic party,
gaining power. should make the change
that party would again be wrecked by
IT,. for it can make no tariff that viii be
acceptable 90 the majority Of the Amer
team people Not that it would elimi-
nate protection. II would not Bat It
would change the subject matter. il
would reverse. not the principle of pro
lection but the incidence OF Il. II would
pat "the other fellow" on the free LIST
just as il did before. and keep protec-
uOu for certain great interests that could
have influence with constituencies Of the
party This was what damned the last
or latest effort Of the Democratic party
al tariT-mJkinC.
We should Ike 20 see the Republican
Congress revise the tariff. at the coming
session. and take The risk. But the Re
publicans viii not co it. Nor would the
Democratic party. in its place just now,
DO it. And there VIII be "a big fight
whenever il is done by either party.
The Washington herald., 1907-09-14

ladies-who depart occasionally from the
paths Of strict truthfulness, this would
be a dreary land, 10 be sure. Il has been
many a long day since the country en-
jOyed anything one-half so much as pres
ent-day bouts between nature takers and
anti-nature takers. The entire perform
ance would be fiat. insipid. and stale-if
not actually impossible-were it not for
the old. reliable story teller 10 start the
ball rolling in the right direction in the
beginning. II little good comes of the
controversy at least little harm can pos
slbly come and the nature faker-waich
Is a polite term for the other thing-ls
more 10 be thanked for furnishing Us a
good time than otherwise.
Instances like unto this might, OF
course, be cited Indefinitely, but it isn't
worth while to note them. The point we
make is evident The newly discovered
'liar cure" should be applied with ex-
treme care. one Of the greatest things
in this world is laughter-and without the
real comical liars We should miss many
things well worth while
The Washington herald., 1907-09-14
HARRIsONS THoUGHTFULNESS.
Former Presidents Sympathetic Side
Recalled by Two Instances.

From the New York sun
When the fire occurred in the residence
OF his Secretary of the Navy. the Hon.
Benjamin T. Tracy. Mr. Harrison walked
out Of his residence. then the Executive
Mansion. now the White House. alone
and inspired only by a nelghbor's pity
and affection. He had no Secret Service
men with him. no janissarieS no marks
men on assorted bicycles The scorched
and tortured bodies Of Mrs. Tracy ard
her daughter were sent 10 sthe White
House" and the still breathing form Of
the Secretary was borne on a litter 70
the same friendly refuge. Benjamin Har-
risOn walked beside his friends uncon-
scious FORM holding in warm grasp an
almost pUlseless hand and passers-by at
that central pOint-FaTragut Park-and
at that crowded hour Of about $50 or 3
a. III. saw the Chief Executive Of the
greatest nation in the world stumbling
along at the side Of Il forlOrn pageant.
with te8r-stained cheeks and miserable
mien.
Again, when his Secretary of the Treas
Ury, Mr. Window. fell dead at a banquet
IN this town. and when President Har-
rison heard Of it through the White
House machinery of quick communion
tion, he bethought himself-this "unemo-
tiOnal' and ''unsymp3thetie" monster
that the suddenly created widow was
one Of merry and hilarious party al one
Of the Cabinet residences OF the day.
The hour was late the circumstances
most embarrassing and difficult; but Ben
jamin Harrison had himself driven to the
door of the house of gayety. sent in for
the bereaved woman, and while on the
way 10 her desolated home told her the
dreadful news as best he could
The Washington herald., 1907-09-14

The point recently made by Repre-
sentative Lilley. from Connecticut who
is member of the House Naval Com
mittee. in regard 10 our extravaganza in
the matter of navy yards seems TO be
well taken. TWenty-siX navy yards we
have altogether in the United States.
while Great Britain, with a navy just a
trifie larger than ours. is satisfied with
three. OF course. Great Britain does not
have Congressman from coast cities who
demand the establishment Of navy yards
as their share Of the public Pile We do,
II the next Congress should attempt to
close up some OF the yards that are now
so costly and so unnecessary. there would
be a great to-do among the Representa-
tives and the Senators from the State
that might be affected.
II is to be hoped that Congressman
Lilley viii not be content with airing his
views in q public interview, but viii ex-
press them in the next session of Con-
gress. Capt. Hobson TO the contrary
Notwithstanding. we are seriously in need
Of some Tetrenchment in the matter Of
naval expenditures; and when the coal
bill is presented for the Pacific trip we
shall realize that need the more fully.
No one, we are sure. is in favor of doing
anything to render the navy inadequate