The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-03-31
LONDON FASHIONS.
BY MAY DAWSON.

and mis- cut generally beyond reproach
none the less the intricacies OF trim
mings and subtleties of finish bulk
largely in the general effect and show
the tremendous advance made in deco
rative sartoTial art.
There is very decided wave Of
popularity for trimmings of every sort.
Military braidings. fancy buttons,
charming little waistcoats and fascin-
ating Dipings of MORE and taffetas,
with the Inevitable touch of dead gold,
still continue popular at the leading
French and English houses for tailor
built costumes in cloths and serges.
Gold Is even permissible. on tWeedS and
.friezeS.s ~ asHa tier of fact, in certain
details and among certain sections of
society tailor fashions have very de
cidedlC changed. and what is more. they
are still changing, partly because there
are certain women who VIII not Wear
biz sleeves or even snort sleeves in
tweed anG serge. and these have more
than a ieaVen of common Sense on their
side Yet. from d point of view of fash
ion. it must be chronicled that no
sleeves are Tong; though l viii say
they may not BE- so month hence'
Also. sleeves are bigger. This Is ap-
parent in blouses. coats. and more than
ever in evening dress and the smart re-
-ceptinn toilette
In Vienna. whence the new tailor
mad6sz uSuany seThanate.~ it has been
decreeI that shoulders shall be squared
and sleeves made full. They are not
exaggerated, and think they are quite
generally becoming, for in reality the
best tailorS dc not eXagGerate details
of this kind. Indifferent models show
via. eccentritities but not so. those
from the best houses. There are, how
ever. certain. women who have a craze
forz anything new in the way Of deco
ration. =
Speabins- generally, fashion today is
chaiTainEly graceful, and with The eX-
.ccp;ion of the prevalence of long skirts,
i fairly practical.
For ball dresses white and silver are
essentially the debutante's choice this
year. but in some cases gold flowers su-
peTSede those of the baser--netaL- and
trails of wild roses. carried out in gold
thread sometimes form 4 trelliswork
pattern over the whole skirt. Peach
pink yelled with melon-yellow repre-
sent another scheme which mas capti-
waited the fancy of the well-dressed wo-
man of the day, and this is supplement
ed with gold flowers, such as trails of
coaVolyuli, the petals of which are
sewn with meek -dewdFeps.
/ The prettiest dresses of the, season
are the little Josephine" frocks of soft
ivory satin with beNitehing simplicity
and carried out all in one. The front
panel of these foreks, which reaches
from the decolletage to the hem, Is
decorated with military cords made Of
the tubular equine supplemented at
eacn side with heavy silver tassels,
Most Of these fFocks have soft vests
and sleeves of chiffon. while in cases
where the empire scheme is followed to
its minutest detail the hair will be
dressed with empire cuTls and ring
lets, twined with pearls and adorned
with feather Dlumes.
The chaperon has once again decided
in favor Of the black evening dress,
and some very exquisite samples have
been eVOlved. In many cases the SOM
breness of the gown is obviated by the
use of the white foundation over which
the chantilly lace or Satin-StTiped gauze
is gathered, the effect being still fur
thar enhanced by jet embroideries-
These are frequently worked on an
interlinina of white chiffon or net over
which lhe black lace or gauze falls in
soft folds partially dimming their
brightness and this is particularly ef-
fecrive when silver or gold Daillettes
are used in lieu of the jet. The drapei
.eorsag e- is high i'm favor, the folds of
the black material reaching in many
cases only to the line of the bust.
where it gives place to the chemisette
of soft ivory chiffon, of which the
sleeves are likewise composed.
With the anticipated approach Of
warmer weather light wraps are being
evolved in~chiffen and lace. The devo-
ton for two-color schemes is as notice
able with regard to evening cloaks as
il is in the realm of gowns, and some
lovely rainbow effects are gained by
means of thro or even four Yeiiinss,
each of which is designed in a different
color.
In Paris the one subject which is
asitating all fashionable women at the
present moment is that of the couture
The prices asked for some OF the most
costly gowns which have almost re-
duced their owners to bankruptcy ap-
pear moderate beside the sums paid for
the brilliant locks which crown the
heads az Partisan elegantes. \ well
known opera singer who recently al
tered the style of her couture to meet
the exigeant demands of fashion has
been heard to deplore the fact that her
head had cost her quite fortune, and
her case can hardly be termed unique
one. No pains are spared in matching
the exact shade of the wearer's own
hair and both the real and the supple
mantary locks are subjected side by
side to the most careful treatment at
the hands Of an EXPERT, so as TO give
them exactly a corresponding bright
ness and glossiness
The great change which has almost
revolutioniZed the somewhat stereo-
tvued style of ilairdressing which we
have. for so long associated with French
women IS the INTRODUCTION of the thick
plait which is arranged in d coronal
round the crown of the head. no fash
ionabie woman being seen without it.
This has. however, by no means super
seeded the small eur1s which are like
wise introduced into the coifure, the
entire scheme giving to the wearer n
somewhat top-heavy appearance which
can hardly be called becoming. So
plentiful is the supply of hair required
that even the girl whose locks reach TO
her waist and are propertionately thick
ran hardly hope to secure the desired
result without the addition of an extra
switch.
In spite Of the discomfort which in
vayiablv attends those who wear u
large hat in a high Wind this form of
beadgear is too popular to be altogeth-
or discarded. and immense models COM
nosed of drawn taffetas with "caps" of
-. e-..,l5 loco under the I7riF11s are to be