The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1907-08-17

with narrow box plat in front was
trimmed around the bottom with a
four-inch band of the line, bordered
with golden-brow piping and at
regular intervals the band shaped it.
self into hollow square, which was
laced across in a spider web device
with brown silk braid. The waist
with its kimona sleeve was worn over
a guimpe, the neck peing cut is a
square point and outlined with a mar
row band piped with brown, like that
on the skirt. Between the neck band
and another band which extended
over the shoulder and down the front
to the waist line, was inset six-iaeh
piece of tucked linen, to which the
lower part of the waist was gathered.
All sorts of jaunty. Frenchy looking
little coats are worn with these wash
able gowns whenever old Sol will per-
nit of them, and they, too, suggest
many possibilities for fall models.
There Is that variation of the pony
jacket known as "Wilhelmina, pre-
sumably because it suggested some
thing Dutch to its originator, which
has been lost in the remodelling. At
any rate 1t is a remarkably good mod
Ell for heavy cloth, and even as well
as for the heavy linen of which the
model was constructed 1t curves to
the figure in the back without exactly
fitting it, and 1t reaches just two inch
es below the waist line. The fronts
are straight but trimmed with a wide,
MORE
fiat linen braid, which extends over the
| shoulders and around the lower edge,
and also finishes the front edges which
Just meet low over the bust, and are
decorated with two frogs fashioned Of
the braid. The sleeves are clearly de-
| fired mandarin shape, reaching to the
wrists, where they come into band
| Of the braid, and the tapering effect is
still further emphasized by strips Of
| the braid which run lengthwise over
the sleeve. A long garment modelled in
new lines Is Juliette coat or cloak,
which is adaptable, both for afternoon
and evening wear 1t Is cut In one
piece, or would be If the material were
wide enough, and naturally enough,
from its very simplicity, If nothing
more, 1t must be of japanese design.
| The two edges are scanned under the
arm to point eighteen inches from
the bottom, where they are left free.
The fronts are finished with shaped
band, which also extends around the
| bottom and up either side OF the seams
at the sides. The back hangs free from
| the shoulders, and the kimona sleeves
are trimmed with the banding. In this
model one may find many suggestions
for early fall materials.
Many Of the models recently import
ed show a return to the Russian style
of blouse which was so popular some
five years ago, and, as 1t is made quite
universally becoming, 1t undoubtedly
will be favorite. 1t Is an especially
pleasing design for the rich fabrics,
and another point that greatly aug
ments its possibilities is the fact that
IL isc peculiarly adaptable to fur trim
nlings, and fur trimmings are promised
as special features of autumn and WIN
| ter fashions. Although there Is not yet
any pronounced evidence Of the return
of the pouched waist fronts,the French
models all show the merest suggestion
of them. The blousing will, however, be
only in the front, with the sides and
under-arm portions plain, as Is the
rule now. All indications point to what
might be termed cosmopolitan fash
iof season. We have already borrowed
largely from the Japanese, and the
Russian effects, as we have just ex-
planned, are on their way to us, and
| row. at last, the designers have rec.
| ognized the possibilities OF the Span
| ish scarf, and there are wonderful
things In the way OF long lengths OF
tulle, crepe, silk, and various other fab
| RIGS embroidered by hand and by ma
chine, printed or left quite plain, witt
their ends fringed and lace-trimmed
which are thrust upon US to try what
we can to simulate with 1t the grace
of our Spanish, sisters. No evening cos
tune, at any rate, will be complete
without a scarf. 1t may be worn or il
nav be merely carried over the arm
or thrown around one, and carelessly
caught up with fold of the gown
but 1t must be present as a necessary
adjunct of the fine de steele evening
| toilette.
The lovely old-fashioned, new-style
shawls are equally in evidence Those
of soft, cobweb-like crepe, with the
owners decorated with elaborate speci.
mems of hand embroidery, are especial
ly in vogue. They make the smartes
of evening wraps for real use, not, like
the scarf, merely for show. They are
slashed Up the center, then sewed in {
scam at either side, with places for The
arms to pass through made, in fact
precisely like kimono. The top /:
turned back, If the embroidery, as 1t Il
apt to be, is alike ,on both sides, an(
ribbon drawstrlng inserted, with lonl
loops and ends left at the fronts.
All sorts of beautiful old lace scarf
are in requisltion, and will very large
ly take the place of the theater ha
1t is an art in itself to arrange or t,