The daily morning journal and courier., 1907-05-08

box -plaited gores fiaring at the bot l tom. Just above a six-inch hem on each plait is an oval medallion of lpolnt applique, and this forms the cen ter for pretty flower design done ir self-colored braid. The same idea is carried out in the empire coat, which accompanies this skirt. The front and back each form a wide graduated box plait, which is braided around lace lmedallions, and the sleeves also are similarly fashioned. On the finer linen weaves Valencienes is often used in combination with braid, and is very | effective. The pretty flower effects Wrought into an empire design are very suitable for this particular com bination. A smart model shows a plaited skirt with a four-inch band of braiding and embroidery between two rows of narrow Valenciennes lace in- sertion. Between these insertion bands runs a dainty vine design in hand embroidery Net, also, may be made to serve purpose in these en- broidered linen creations. If done at home, a strip of net not too fine, wash blonde is very suitable, is cut the width required for the band, or, if for the waist, the size of the design which is stamped on the dress linen. The design is then outlined in button holing and cut away, leaving the net to form the solid portions of the pat tern.
 But not all of the costumes In heavy linen are embroidered in these bold de- signs Some of them, on the contrary, show very dainty patterns. A fetch ing blue linen which is to form part of smart rousseau for a June bride is elaborately embroidered with clus- ters of forget-me-nots and trails of smilax. It is three piece suit, as the newest linen toilettes are, and the coat is especially worthy of description. It is marvellous combination of blouse, Eton, and Empire coat; the black has a box plait three inches wide stitched in with the shoulder seam where it meets the sleeve; this plait gradually grows smaller toward the raised waist line, and then 1t widens again to the hips. The front, instead of a box plait, has fold of the goods at either side draped around, blouse fashion, to the girdle; and this draping allows the fronts to fall apart, disclosing novel cross-over vest of brown linen. The plaits in back, the folds in front, and the vest are all embroidered with It. tie punches and single sprays of for get-me-nots in their natural colors, and the whole design is checked off with fine black silk thread The sleeves are of the flowing Japanese order, with a band of brown linen across the bottom. The under bodice Cor it may be worn with a lace guimpe of course) is a jumper With deep, rounded yoke and puffed sleeves of embroidery, the latter coming into narrow bands of the brown linen.
 The little short-backed, long-skirted empire frocks are wonderfully adapta- ble for the soft-finished linens which have been brought out by the manu- facturers for our delectation this sea-
 
 prominent examples of the empire that remain In all other designs. Even a very modified attempt at that style has an ultra, not to say out-o date, appearances this when not three months ago all indications pointed di- rectly toward a period of empire al- most to the exclusion of other modes. The Greeian effects, however, un- doubtedly the evolution of the Orien- tai, have quite superseded all others, and are in long, sinuous, flowing lines. Even the tailored designs manage to take on semblance of this effect though how 1t is done is a secret of the French costumers and such of our American modistes as have been cleverly artistic enough to filch the knack of it from them. The models for the handkerchief linens invariably tend toward elegant simplicity, and hereo too, in spite of masses, perhaps, of frills and furbelows, flat effects prevail. This, too, Is a secret of the French dressmaker. A graduation gown which is in process of construc- tlon Illustrates this point. The fouh- dation material Is French batiste over a skirt of null and petticoat of taffeta. At the hips the skirt is laid in deep tucks or folds, whose edges come to- gether; there are five of these panel effects, as they really are, and the two folds spread apart away from alternat- Ing panels of the 'batiste, which have all the way up alternating groups of five rows of Valencienes lace frills and a four-inch flounce of exquisite Eng Iish embroidery in deep pointed seal lops, which half-conceal the lace frills. The bodice Is a jumper blouse, fash toned of embroidery like the founces on the skirt panels worn over a guimpe with Valenciennes yoke and stock and all-over frllled sleeves. It all sounds rather over-dressy to suit the purpose for which 1t Is intended but, as matter of fact, its lines are extremely simple and the ensemble loes not in the least suggest such a owing to the dressmak- CTS art.--"C. A. M.," In New York Evening Post.
 RECITAL AT VALLEYS