Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-18
Special Correspondence OF The Star.


PARIS, May 4. 1907.
At the Concours Hippique the new cos
tunes always make their appearance In
full splendor. In the morning one sees the
tailor made absolutely at its best, and on
the fashionable afternoons the gowns are
exceedingly elaborate and of most original
design.
Ny impression of the toilets at the Hip
pique. taken as whole. is that the modes
of the moment are not entirely hattering
to the female form divine. They have a
tendency to make pretty women look just
a little heavy and overloaded, and be-
lieve the new hats and the new sleeves
have much to answer for in this connec-
ton. Given a very large hat. weighed
down with feathers and worn we'll down
on the head and given at the same time
a short coatee with enormous sleeves
which look like capes from the back, the
effect is of necessity rather stupendous.
The new hats are delightfully."- picturesque.
viewed by themselves, and certainly the
newest sleeves are not only picturesque
they are also most comfortable and prac-
teal But, then, the two together! 1t Is
interesting and not little amusing to
note the war which Is raging In the mil
linery world-picture hats worn In an ex-
agEeratedly picturesque manner versus CO.
ouettish little hats of the Dolly Warden
order, the latter perched high on the head,
showing a great deal OF the hair In 'front.'.
OF course. different hats prove Decoii,ms
TO different women. but the tendency Just
now Is to make immensely large mats OF
the picture order generally popular. ana
In this tendency much danger Is en-
braced.
Some Radical Changes.
In several important respects fashion has
commanded radical changes to be MADE
this season. The hair Is dressed In dit-
ferent manner from that of last year. the
hats are worn at different angle, and
the sleeves of the newest blouses and
coateas are absolutely and entirely differ
emit Nearly all the new coat sleeves are
nut into an immensely large armhole, and
though they do not show any fullness on
the shoulder. they in themselves are so
wide that they look exactly like capeS
when the arms are down. l am quite In
love with these new sleeves. but recognize
that they demand special order or nat
and gown and wearer. Little tusore coates
OF a semi-Japanese, semi-Chinese order
look eminently chic and original when fin
ished off with great bell sleeves of guipure
or Venetian point which matches in color
the coat material. Quite the newest Idea
Is to have these sleeves cut In the shape
of a funnel, the armhole as large as pos
sible and the sleeve tapering away to al
most a point at the wrist AS nave al
ready remarked. the effect from the back
OF sleeves of this order is that of pic
turesque cape.
The New Headgear.
One more word on the subject Of pic
ture hats" Fashion has decided that they
are to be exceedingly large and Of the
mushroom outline, with numerous feathers
waving over the brim at the back or with
enormous bows OF handsome ribbons
perched at one side, the ends falling over
the hair.
Some of the best dressed women at the
Concours Hippidue wore black hats Of this
order, with gowns OF pale hued cloth and
handsome lace. Black chip hats are very
fashionable this year. and some OF the
newest models show chip brims with lin
ings OF tuscan and crowns of pulled point
desprit.
White straw hats lined with black straw
are the dernier cri in millinery. Others
are edged with border in contrasting
shade of straw. A notable feature is the
monopoly of trimmings. BY this 1 mean
that one hat will show only ribbon, an
other feathers. another flowers or foliage.
Typical examples are the hats here illus
trated. In The one instance We have a
decoration of wings only. in the other Of
black uncurled ostrich plumes. The for
mer crowns a costume which Is OF the
demi tailleur order, so intensely popular
this year, as individuality in dress Is each
ones aim. This model assumed by one
of societys most beautiful and elegant
members) was of dark blue serge. The
skirt with its insertions of bias and minute
tucks. initiated tunic. The novel little
bolero was worn over lawn blouse in
crusted with guipure.
Some Approved Fabrics.
In the way Of new materials we have
L. xx,ht otrI~
votles de sole. Some Of the latter show
quite new designs A good-sized half
moon and broken stripes are patterns
which are waiting to be taken up. Shan
tung silk as a revival is being freely used
1t Is welcomed for motoring wraps after
noon gowns, blouses and facings 1t al
most shares popularity with tussore.
Some women have adopted jackets made
In a material differing from that OF the
when represented by the little colored linen
coates referred to here a short time ago.
Cluny lace Is coming in and threatens to
usurp the place of guipure Orlando. Thick,
to the finer kind. and 1t is being dyed In all
shades.
novelty consists in supervising material
OF the same kind-chiffon. wolfe de sole and
such transparencies, of course-in two DIFF
ferent colors. A fascinating shot effect Is
thus produced.
There Is no small degree of favor shown
to little short-waisted jackets: "basqued bo-
leros" describes them perhaps better. They
take the place OF the long directoire coats
and the paletots-sacs which were SO much
worn In the winter.
No part of dress presents greater diff
cultles than the collar, as / have had occa-
sion to observe before. 1t Is q stumbling
block which only the real artist in dress
making overcomes at all. And he 1t Is who
has decreed that transparent Jokes and col
lars shall be the mode. He gives prefer
ence to fine net which Is stretched tight on
the skin in the case of the yoke, while the
collar Is plated and edged with q little
ruche. But net may with advantage be
varied by insertions of Valenciennes and
stitching OF by alencon lace. These dem
telles-a clair are always most becoming to
the face. They may be repeated in mitten
sleeves. which are cooler than long gloves
and will therefore be adopted in the sum-
mer.
A Modish Example.
1t Is quite astonishing the rapidity with
which white gloves have disappeared from
the scene. They are. of course, still worn
with pure white gowns In the afternoon
as well as the evening. but even with white
dresses 1t Is more correct to wear gloves
Of pale gray shades. One never now sees
white kid or suede gloves worn with black