davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1907-06-02

dresses that are trimmed only with In
sertions and ruchings OF valencienn ,
laces and Just few narrow bands of
embroidery upon the waist. and these
are, OF course. the most suitable. A
handsome lingerie gown is an excellent
investment for wear over colored silk
slips. These dresses are very smart
just now and are used for all sorts OF
wear. even being seen in the city as re-
ception and theater costumes.
The empire still remains, but prin-
cess dresses are not much In evidence
this spring, even those gowns that are
Joined together at the waist having q
pleated girdle or narrow stitched belt.
1t has been proven that light gowns
keep in place and fit better II waist
and skirt are joined together at the
belt by band of lace or beading. This
idea was carried out last year, but it
was not considered necessary to add a
bon, satin or taffeta belt on nearly
every gown. Tho belt may be quite
separate from the dress, again may be
tackled lightly to the material here and
there to insure its keeping always in
place and prevent the skirt and bodice
from slipping. Soft messaline ribbon
Is the most fashionable at the moment,
while liberty satin is also in vogue. On
the empire gowns the belt is generally
finished of in a stjff bow or rosette in
back. with short ends falling down just
below the waistline. Some girdles are
made with long sash ends looped up
and knotted here and there. and. of
The San Francisco call., 1907-06-02

together and decide a number OF minor
points about their gowns, which is car
1ted out by an entire class may be ex-
tEenely attractive. while IL adopted by
only few members are more con-
spicuous than pretty. The most i'm
portant question for the united class
to agree Upon concerns the length OF
the train. for with the girls all grouped
together and walking into the room
where the exercises are to be held the
effect is exceedingly Ugly IL all these
skirts are OF a totally different length
A long train is always more graceful
and becoming than a short skirt, and
it IS especially important on a raised
platform to have a fairly long sweep
OF train graceful length OF skirt
lies upon the ground about ~ inches
N the back, shortened gradually to-
ward the sides and in front is the cor
rect length TO just rest upon the floor
There must be no question OF the skirt
being long enough to trip one up, for
upon this day, OF all others, IL is de-
sirous to have to think as little as
possible about what one is wearing.
All skirts are decidedly full this year.
and while the barrel shaped effect is
done away with by the skirt being
carefully fitted about the waist and
hips, still a full skirt underneath and
plenty Of material in the skirt itself
make 1t stand out nicely at the feet.
All light textures-mull, lawn and or
sandie-require q full underslip OF silk
If possible, or If not, one OF well
starched lawn to prevent any clinging
in OF the material. Nothing is less at
tractive than a thin. slinky material.
The next question that is sure TO
arouse considerable discussion this year
is in regard to the sleeves. and here it
is very important for the different
10 a definite agreement that each men,
Der VIII promise 10 abide by. Long
sleeves are generally acknowledged to
look the best or the platform, for the
style of dress after which a graduating
gown is modelled cannot have anything
shorter than elbow sleeves, and the
part OF the arm that is thus left bare
The San Francisco call., 1907-06-02

MADEIRA and produces one-hfth of the
wine made in California, which state
produces two thirds OF all that is
made in America. Grapes on. more
than 10000 acres of land are consumed
by the colony II owns. itself. 5000
OF all ethe plants is I3,250.000 GALLONS.
Tho largest wine tank in the world.
500. .0ao gallons capacity, is at Asti.
Not only have the Italian gentlemen
who founded this colony. and carried it
to success sent throughout the world
wines that give California a place in
the front rank with the famous wine
districts of Europe, but they have
shown that perseverance and grit Will
bring profits from the grape in Cali
fornia. They struggled long to bring
this great concern TO its present status
and they faced many hardships, but
they had the faith that wins the prize
In the end and they have shown that
that and industry are all that are
necessary to bring reward from Cali
forniass fruitful soil.
The Asti colony in Sonoma is one of
the great, unfailing advertisements of
California. There are vineyards and
wineries in almost every county OF the
state. but at this place there is COL
lectiye view that gives the visitor a
full knowledge of Califernia's capa-
bilities IN wine producing. There is
none that does. not go away full OF
marvel at what can be accomplished
From all parts of this country and Eu-
rope there have been visitors to the
colony, many famous personages and
members OF royalty among them. Con-
ventions and conclaves that gather here
are sometimes taken to this showplace
in bodies and the members visit it In
dividually. So.jnto Europe and through
out the United States the wonders OF
grape growing and wine producing in
California are carried The wines pro-
duced by this colony are sold In Central
and South America, many countries ,f
Europe. China. Japan. Mexico. Canada
and. OF course, the eastern states. Mr..
Sbarboro says that on the great Water
loo bridge In London there blazes forth
the name OF an Asti wine at night, and
that that electric sign Is not only there
as an advertisement for the wine, but
1t advertises California as well.
The Asst coinnv's original nvrchASe
The San Francisco call., 1907-06-02

and there is a plan afoot among the
italians TO give grand opera there In
their language all the year. IL this is
carried out musical San Francisco will
owe a deep obligation to these people.
The Italians in California own about
5000 farms. In these and their-~busi-
ness interests is invested about s12e,-
100000 Around Los Angeles there ara
1000 Italian truck gardeners, and there.
are $500 in Santa Clara county. In
Los Angeles the Italians raise most Of
the beautiful white celery that the
east gobbles with such avidity. They
are shipping many carloads OF cab
bages east from this city. that being q
growing industry. They have cuiti-
waited TIE once barren bluffs between
Colma and the ocean and there raise
big crops OF cabbages, caulifiower aud
other vegetables. depending only on the
ocean moisture for irrigation.
In their intensive style OF farming the
Italians utilize every inch OF ground.
fence corners and ALL. They grow all
they need TO eat and rarely buy food.
setting an example that some American
ranchers who buy their own bacon.
eggs and vegetables might well follow
in part.
The Italian population of California
was ofhcially given in 1900 as 23.77T. lt
- now estimated variously at from
$1,000 TO 100000. Just how many there
are none knows Many have come since
the earthquake. Some labor in tho
city, some go out TO make vineyards
and gardens, some dip into the sea for
dsh. Each sends home. as he makes
the money. for another. relative or
friend. and these come and add their
industry and the savings grow and 50.
maybe. the ranch Is added TO: maybe
rent paying tenements are erected The
Italians work safely and closely They
do not take to borrowing or mortgaging.
1t cannot be said that for the Apneri-
can farmer TO perform the slavish work
Of the Italian gardener. who Is up at 3
In the morning and after nearly . full
days work drives his wagon load of
produce to the city. returning asleep
on a load OF fertilizer after sunup.
would be either advisable or desirable.
but there is a lesson OF industry and
utiliSstion OF land and material on the
truck garden that may well ~ fol-
lowed by all.
The San Francisco call., 1907-06-02

the Pacific The italians blended tha
Mediterranean with the western ocean.
They brought the health and the spirit
of Lucca and of Sicily.
Il will relate an instance showing
how completely the products OF Itaty
have been duplicated here. Thirty
one years ago DR.. Macary, well known
in this city at that time and who ac-
curnulated enough to make him COM
Portable In his native sanc Geturned
there. He made beautiful home 1T
San Reno. one OF the features OF which
was the gardens. He had gathered
about everything worth while in them.
Six years ago / was in Italy and paid
him a visit. He showed me his splen-
did garden and insisted that find
something not grown in California 10
take back there and transplant. Ha
didn't doubt that he could soon light
on something that would be new here.
But he couldn't. He searched every
part of his estate, but everything no
showed me found was something that
we grew as well or better here. He
was somewhat vexed at all this. but
gave up the search. and I thought he
had forgotten the matter.
The day OF my departure DIR.
Macary came to me with his face beam
ing. He seemed like one who had
been relieved of a worry. i have found
something at last, he said, that Will
be new to you out there; let me show
YOU He led me down to remote cor-
ner OF his garden, where there was
little pomegranate tree--little. though
1t had attained full growth. told
him that we had plenty Of them here.
but did not tell him how much larger
were tho ones we grew"
Their agricultural achievements
have been Of incalculable benefit 20
California" said Mr.. FoutAua, president
OF the California canneries association,
speaking OF his fellow countrymen.
'but the example set by their thrift.
industry and frugality IL one OF the
greatest BENEFITS q community could
have. You see all those buildings IN
North beach. They are the result of
hard work and saving. It's work that
counts. you know-work and fruEality.
They are all sober. too. these Italians.
They drink their wine at their meals.
but It is pure wine ana all they drink
does no harm. Whisky Is the liauor
The San Francisco call., 1907-06-02

consisted of 1900 acres from the Hutch
inson brothers. sheep men. 1t paid
$4,000 for it. Today this land is worth
100000. Italian vine growing and
wine making has worked it's magic.
Some Italian Capitalists
whereve,r one goes among the Ital-
ians 10 gain information concerning
them he is met With the advice: You
go and see Mr. Sbarboro; he knows all
about it,
There is one thing" said Sbarboro
in speaking of what benefits have ac-
crued to California from the presence
of the Italians, that we must not over
look in this connection, and thatEi is the
labor. OF the men from Italy. They have
given much as agriculturists-morc
than can be estimated in figures--as
fishermen, as business men and have
done much to inspire art and music
here; but their labor has been one OF
the principal things. They have helped
in the building of railroads and in other
work that has added to the states ad-
vancement. The Italian is a good work
man. California owes him much for
what he has done with his muscle and
endurance.
Most of the Italians who arrived In
the carly days. came intending to make
fortunes In five years and return. Most
OF them never did return. They had
nothing better to go back to. than they
found here. and the opportunity to es-
tablish homes and gather the comforts
Of life about them was alluring enough
to offset, in nearly all instances, the
lure OF the mother country. They loved
California and they stayed and helped
in Its development.
Nearly all OF them were agricultur-
fsts, skilled with the example OF gem
erations in the knowledge OF soils and
the working of them. and they were
soon supplying all the cities with vege-
tables. in which they hold monopoly
today. Floriculture was also taken mp
by them. They sent to Italy Tor seeds
OF all the products they knew there
and for cuttings Of all the valuable va
rietieS OF grapes. Today there is moth
ing gxown In italy that Is not grown
here. The Italians have brought 1t all.
and everything that made Italy q land
OF beauty and plenty az Tar ss the soil
went thyiyes IN this similar climate by
The San Francisco call., 1907-06-02

y nee again there is st hand the
sign Of the sweet girl grad
uate, and beside her IN ir1por-
tance even the June bride sinks
;Rto insignihcance. For time that
has been eagerly expected for so many
months Il IS no wonder that SO much
thought must be expended upon every
cetsl Of commencement time and that
the gown that is designed for the all
absorbing occasion should cali for un-
usual care ana consideration OF ways,
means and final effect. All effort must
be given to make the dress perfect or
tts .kind--sp ppropriate to the occasion
and Becoming to the happy vearer.
Fortunately g rather simple style of
dress hss FOR long been acknowledged
the best taste for the graduate, as
otherwise in the peculiar zeal Of the
Tnodiste and the girl herself to make
Idis gown an exceptional success there
would be danger OF q most elaborate
and expensive frock resulting, which
would be altogether out OF keeping
with the purpose for which It IS in
tended. Now. as at most other times,
* nluet be borne in mind that each
ore Sc member Of a community and
not q being set apart by herself and
that while she may be able to have q
most gorgeous gown OF lace, chiffon
and embroidery perhaps the girl in
the next chair can afford only a sim
pie gown OF lawn or organdie and
each dress viii take away from the
charm OF the other. While the richer
dress Eill undoubtedly make the plain
muslin look somewhat poor, sust so
viii the simple dress show Up the in
appropriateness OF frilis and furbe-
lows at such time and place, and per-
haps Il 0svas this very reason that made
the style OF a simply made white frock
SIT become an established convention.
Skirts are Very Full
In the majority OF schools and in
some colleges the graduating classes
gre smell enough for the girls to get
The San Francisco call., 1907-06-02

in this city now and 200 chefs OF that
nationality. They have spread the gos-
pei OF good living like the French and
q gastronomic gospel has it's virtues.
Many an American housewife has cop
led the Italian methods of creating ap-
petizing viands and utilizing various
foodstuffs to the added happiness OF
her family.
Perhaps we should mention art and
music before gastronomy. but we GER
tainly could not overlook those two
subjects in speaking of what the Ital
ians have done for California. ami
especially this city Tue humblest
Italian loves his music. and their en-
thusiasm for IL has helped foster that
spirit which makes San Francisco one
of the most appreciative Of that form
of music OF all the cities
Horticulture as pursued by the Ital-
ians has aided largely in the develop
ment OF rare varieties that make our
florists stores famous. Their street
corner markets give a touch OF Milan
and Naples to San Francisco and other
cities.
THE fisheries of California have been
developed almost entirely by the
Italians. They are daring men with
their small craft, and they bring up
every food treasure of the sea that we
can consume. It is remarkable how
these men can StdnQ rigorous Cllndte
Even those from Sicily go north as
whalers and to work in the fish can
neries. and seem to suffer mono from
the hardships. Fully 1000 go each
year to the canneries.
Many American ladies OF this city I
find are learning the> italian language
because Of the prevalence of that race
here. and you frequently hear them
carrying on conversations with their
Sch lev Te-<
ing of the language tends to instill the
romance. poetry and art of the south
ern kingdom into the people here 1t
is happy influence"
And so from music to fish. from wine
to spaghetti. from roses to cabbages,
the Italian hand and the Italian skill
are traced in the growth of California,
in the increase OF her material wealth,
in the enhancing of her beauty and at
tractiveness-
The old Greek church up in the Latin
quarter is being turned into 4 theater,
The San Francisco call., 1907-06-02

must not only look cool and dainty,
but tt must also feel light and comfort
able. no matter to what helshts the
mercury may chance to soar. A Erimps
dress serves so nicely the two pur-
poses OF afternoon and evening gowns
that II remains IN favor year afta-
year. The white dress Is never remsn-
bered. 50 that it can be worn time and
again, hrst high neck. then decollste.
until the season is over. But IL would
be best In the all important graduation
day to baste the guimps In all around
so that the yoke cannot possibly
wrinkle or look as though It aid not
really belong to tae dress. Lace yolxss
are now worn so mach that there -
little danger OF the guimpe lookinE
different from the dress itself. provided.
OF course. that IL Is made OF tho same
material and trimmed with the sans
lace.
At the graduation exercises all thu
schools and colleges are naturally in
gala attire. and il the younger girls
take any part in the entertainment
they. too, are generally dressed in
white, though their gowns are even
more simple and more youthful than
those OF the graduates. II there Is a
question OF graduating from one class
to higher one. OF from one school to-
a more advanced academy, and there
are any exercises attendant, tnsn
pretty dress Of white organdie or null.
made with deep lace yoke and inser-
tions OF lace on both waist and skirt.
with Just enough hand tucking as -
necessary to give pretty finish. IS
sure to be attractive and becoming.
The skirt. OF course. has no train but
It's length depends solely upon the
height and age OF the child. A girl
tall for her age naturally requires
skirt longer in proportion than the
child who will do most OF her gowning
later on. The waist should blouse
softly over a ribbon girdle. finished
with long sash ends falling about half
way TO the hem OF the dress. For
young girl just in her teens real
sash is generally more becoming than
q plain round belt.
1t is. IL anything. more important
that short dress should hang per-
fectly and flare we'll than wnen there
is long train to hide some OF the de-
fects. 1t Is also mistake to keep
child in too short dresses. for thsy are
neither becoming nor gracef and
only make the sirl feel conspicuous.
This spring trimmings go both down
and around the skirts. so that what
ever lines are best suited to the wearer
may be carried out.
The San Francisco call., 1907-06-02

that ruins men. II the Italians here
can teach wine drinking to all who
now drink whSky they will bring
safety to many a home that is threat
ened.
eWhen the italian workman draws
his money Saturday night. he puts it in
the bank. Families work together and
save and soon have a home and prop
erty besides. Their industry is re-
warded by comfort after awhile.
Il am not saying that the Italians
are all industrious and saving. AS III,
every other race, there are some
mighty bad ones, but the great number
OF them set examples that others may
well follow. Here in the cannsry there
are many at work, whole families in
some instances, that have accumulated
homes and some property to rent"
Mr.. Fontanas modesty prevented
him from telling what he, an italian.
had done for the fruit canning industry
here. He may be called the father OF
that Industry in the state Years ago
he began 1t on a small scale Today
he ie at the head of what Is perhaps
the biggest cannery business in the
world
'"The wonders worked IN the produc-
tiou of wine by the Italians in Califor-
MIA stand out as q great achievement
for them in this new land said Ettore
Z
newspaper. They brought all sorts
OF European wines, introducing all the
German. French and Spanish varieties
beSides their own. and the wines made
here now cover the entire range of
vintage, sweet and dry. It is certainly
marvellous. Europe itself Is taking to
these wines OF ours, and it will not DO
many years, with the constant improve
ment being made. until there Will be
no old world variety Of finer flavor.
Where One Is a Gourmet
THE Italian cooking is something
that has been brought US for which
we must show appreciation. The res
taurants conducted by the Italians 10
an important part IN the feeding nf
the people here. There 10 many q dish
the gourmet has learned to love that
he would not know save for the fact
that the large colony OF Italians hero
demands its native culinary creations.
There are fully $50 Italian restaurants
The San Francisco call., 1907-06-02

course. this neips to trim the skirt
There are. however, just as many
draped girdles finished of over the
joining with 2 band OF ruching, formed
OF the ribbon The girdIe should be
boned and be anywhere from two to
four inches in width, whatever style
Is the most becoming. A slight blouse
Is allowed In front, but in the back and
on the sides the bodice must be pulled
down well under the girdle-
Dutch Yokes Fashionable
II a Dutch or round yoke is becom-
Ing. 1t Is an extremely pretty way Of
finish on light dress. and IL is rare
indeed that this style OF yoke is not
becoming to q young girl. The fashion
has. IL anything, increased in favor
during the last year. although last sum
mer 1t was not so popular as had been
the case for some time before that.
The collar should be cut out just
enough to leave the throat bare and in
no way like the French restaurant
gown, with its deep rounded yoke that
is about half way between a decollete
or high gown If a collar is pre-
transparent, being built OF embroidery
or lace and we'll boned to keep in place.
While Just in front the collar band can
be comfortable height. 1t must be
considerably broader on the sides and
in the back. Naturally the sleeves and
yoke Of this dress must be outlined.
save perhaps for a foundation OF net
or mousseline de sole. for the dress
The San Francisco call., 1907-06-02

(Continued from Back Page, This
Section)
the creation Of this Industrious people.
wineries and csnneries have sprung up
where the Italian has done his work
and every town is mart where the
buyer from the metropolis comes TO
secure the product of vineyard and
garden. IT is true that not all the
fruit and grape and vegetable growers
are Italians. and in fact, they do not
produce q large part OF the fruit; but
they set an example that. followed by
the observant. has brought results far
beyond those of ordinary effort or skill
By his example in thrift and agricul-
turaI skill. the italian has done much
for the state
The Juice of the Grape
Hills and valleys OF Sonoma and
Mana that were cheap ranges worth
about six dollars an acre have been
set 70 vines and made to produce a
wealth in grapes and wine that has
sent these acres UP among those
classsd as high priced in California
The availability OF all such lands for
Crane growing has been shown not
only in these, but in many other coun-
ties Of the state, and they Will be set
70 the vine as the consumption of Wine
grows by educatOn OF the pScpte 70 It's
sIse and the market is enlarged. There
cannot be q market without consump-
ton, and the latter viii come only as
the American casts aside harmful
LIQUOR and acquires greater taste for
the healthful wine.
IN the grape growing and wine pro-
ducing history OF Italian accomplish
rnent in California, the plants and vine-
Yards OF the great Asti Swiss colony.
Of course, stands out as the leading
example. This colony, founded and
fostered 0by A. Sbarboro and p. c.
Rossf, has become famous all over the
world apd. as result. has added In
that proportion to the reputation OF
Csiifornia as q wine producing state.
Beginning with tract OF land In
gonoraa county used only as sheep
easturage and from which the nadrone
and oak had to be grubbed. this CO.
oRaratfve organization grew until to-
day It has seven properties in the
saEntisz o. Ssnozla. Fresno, Kings aDd
The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1907-11-09

Ogden, Utah, Nov 3, 1907
Dear Aunt Busy: [ said the rosary every night
in October and | going to say decade this
month for the souls in purgatory. Your loving
niece, MARGUERITE SPIDEL.
pretty holy picture for you, too dear little
niece, for the October prayers and an extra one
Cor November. Write soon again, dear.