The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-05-19
SKIRT LINES or TEE SEASON
,,pr AND SKILL NEEDED TO GAIN
4 PERFECT RESULT.

.a.;th,l air Of simplicity. For hat matter
,hs simplicity 10 in many GASES .ooha nus
w many Of the modish skirt models are
thin the scope Of the average
",oyided she has a reasonably accurate
pr.ttsrn and has given enough ihteihgen.
- IN skirt lines to understand just
vhst she wants to achieve
StlI, a perfectly hung skirt OF any period
mands art, and the skirt whose trimmings
~ ~ the most unimportant description re-
IT, nerfection OF fold and line even more
~ does the moro deliberately trimmed
model. , a.oo
80 nettiooat most carefully cut and fitted.
S"rs,sssness in the making Of this founda-
ion n~ettiooat will spoil the effect OF the soit
Nd cllngine skirt draped over it! SOFT
- olinqing' we say, for there are few
tashionable materials to-day which are not
~ and however full Of fold a frock skirt
sav he, IL must cling around the hip ana
nH IN s,nple folds not too widely naring.
Soue dressmakers prefer one OF the light
v.ight, very soft, satin finished silks ior
the foundation p~etticoat. Many hte q
S,p,Is satin which will cling yet has body
enough 10 wear well. ,,I
Chiffon taffeta of the non-rustllng klnd
continues. however, to be the popular
lining silk with he average dressmaker
and can, Of course. be bought in passan'y
rood quality for less money than Is asked
tnr any OF the other silks suitable Tor the
purpose, ,,,.
This underskirt must fit with absolute
,moothness over the hips and abdomen
caring gradually fellow but rot reaching
an extravagant width. Less fuhy running
and trimming is set upon the bottom OF the
n.ttiooat than was used a season or two ago;
tor while the frock skirt must not iall IN
limnly around the feet it is not held out
stis+y at the bottom as was formerly the
case.
The bottom Of the skirt may attain great
width but that width falls in soft. gracefu
,u,lnass with no suggestion OF actual stin-
ns.s Where the material is very sheer
and supple a deep hem or lands or other
trimmings Of heavier stun may be used TO
sight the flmy folds down into the correct
c,ineine lines and to give the skirt a'certain
hody and substance around the feet, but
MANY OF the handsome French frocks have
,hrts ouite untrimmed or trimmed but very
slightly, .,
In the French frock of soft sheer material
one usually finds great skirt fullness, but
the cutter 90 cleverly grad ustes this full
nsss that there is no olumsiness at the top
and the top fullness-liberal though not
.,osasiye-is set into the waisttand inclose
small plaits which are carefully pressed
down the greater part Of the skirt length
but are quite unstitched.
Such a skirt is exceedingly graceful. but
nreouires careful cutting and handling and
the ordinary dressmaker hnds it saier to
stitch the tucks or plaits for at least a snort
distance. The skirt shirred full into the
hand Ia seldom seen, though in sheer material
we'll weighted by bottom trimming 1t gives
the desired lines and is sonnet ines used.
For the tailored walking skirt the cleverlv
eut killed skirt is first favorite among the
smart tailors, but many variations OF the
Matted skirt are used and the striped suit
ines In particular nave called forth in
psnious arrangements Of bias panels, YER
ticsl or horizontal stripe plaits, DO. The
plain front plat on breadth, trimmed or
uptrimmed, retains considerable prestige
and one sees many skirts, especially in
stripes and checks, cut with oias iront
seams but with straight sides.
In length the ~SIking skirt proper Is
prone to ~e1travaEance. Many f~ashionAble
women and girls veal skirts Of exaggerated
,hortness, showing the entire low shoe
and attaining no more than ankle length
Much Of this sort Of thing will doubtless
be seen at the summer resorts, but the
,yerage woman will content herself with
the usual two inches from the floor rule
and unless a woman has an uncommonly
pretty foot and makes a practice OF wearing
charming shoes the two inch length Ia
Infinitely more becoming than the shorter
length.
Flounces and frills will, or course, be
used upon summer frocls, but they are no,
Of an aggressive sort and frequently upon
muslin frock the hounces merely give a
Gradual widening to the skirt bottom ano
quite lose their individ uality. One LOUNGE
let us say, starts under a group OF tucks OF
band of lace or embroidery a little above
the knee. the fulness being adjusted il
tiny tucks instead OF shirring.
On the bottom Of this hounce is set a sec
ond band Of trimming on a second group
ottucks and a second ounce is added below
this. the line Of union being hidden under
the band or tucks. So the skirt width swell
without any definite break Of line and count
less variations are wrought upon this cen
tral idea.
Fiat skirt trimmings are in high favor
many Of them being worked out in self
material, while others make use OF con
trastins self-tone materials or trimmings
The Greek key design and variations o
that idea are greatly utilized, and with ex
cellent effect.
One popular trimming consists OF lac,
bands inset or applique In large battle
mented design. the frock material beini
finely tucked In the battlement sections
Another pretty design for sheer stun
that sketched horc.
The skirt from which the sketch wa
made was OF dotted net. Two tiny shirre'
tucks we're run in battlement lines at fou
inch intervals. Below Wal q similar groul
Of little shirred tucks. blu the -four inche
between these two was filled by a band O
tareta, hand painted In lower design
Powered ribbon is effectively used In thi
zane way.
Bands Of very hne transverse tuckinR 4
the sheer frock material, bordered by littl
folds OF contrasting self-tone material, ar
hked M chiffon yoiIe. moueaeiine. 6o. ar