The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-12-01

upon returning home. experience an
uncomfortable desire to work off the
burden of their thoughts and observa-
tons upon their esteemed fellow citi-
zens. The Herald having kindly Of
fered to facilitate the operation of this
natural law in my case, l hope its
readers viii receive some comDensa-
ton while accompanying me over the
route our party traversed. In 1oins
so, however, they will not encounter
much history OF many statistics. Oc-
casionally a traveller may get a point
of view not set down in the books
And as TO those things usually writ
ten about, I will undertake TO choose
only what made the greatest impress
sion, combining my account mainly TO
the OTisn1alism found in countries nov
Moh2mmedan.
Early In January we left New York
in a binding ralnstOrm, much TO cur
disappointment, as we were very anx-
ious to see the city and harbo- from
the decks of a disappearing steamer
Our Rain objective point being Carr
this Trip was timed to arrive there e.
fore the close of the winter season,
which, for purposes of ascending the
Nile, lasts from abOut the first Of No
Vember TO the first of March. Our boat
soon got into the gulf stream. and the
weather was fine; for one or two days
uncomfcrtably warm with ordinary
winter clothing. To some Of Us this
was the first transatlantic trip, and ]
ceased not to wonder at the present
day comforts of oceanic travel. Could
Christopher Columbus have been
placed blin1foided in the midst there
OF, when he opened his eyes to the
magniacence, speed and size of this
floating palace, I think il WOuli have
been TO him the transcendenI marvel
Of modern invention
The Azores.
On this southern route we come 20
the Azores islands, OF the coast Cf
Africa, and zoe miles from Portugal,
by which country they are owned
They consist of nine islands, contain
ing 900 square miles, with 2S0, 900 popu-
lation. The climate is mild and JrOp-
ical, and European plants grow in
such pTofusion that the only problem
is TO restrain them from becoming too
rank and luxuriant- The portions Wis
ible from the sea are very attractive.
Long lines Of cliffs are broken al in
tervals with sleping lands leading
from the waters edge TO the tops of
high hills in the distance. These are
closely cultivated and the diffeTeut
personal possessions are separated by
green hedges, the plots being very II
and terraced, was beginning ID show
the green of the crops and shrubs. SIS
well s. the blossoms of orange trees
The houses are quaint. mostly painted
white, with green window blinds. A.
distance there was an appearance Ct
neamess that forcibly reminded me Of
-1SDotleSS Town POnta Delgad1, on
the island of San Miguel, is the prin-
Cipal city, is modernized, and pos
L.
20 politics, Of which they have as
much t. the square inch as in our own
beautiful city. The Portuguese are said
10 be rabid politicians, who await with
impotence the arrival of the mail
boats from the parent country
Gibraltar.
on the eighth day out we arrived at
the tiny barber Of Gibraltar in Cata-
Ian bay. BY the way, il must seem
strange to Observant Europeans to find
in America the large. safe haTbOrE that
abound on our coasts. as they have few
that can be favorably conp pared. By
means of a tender We land at this, the
most important, and the strongest fort
r6ss in the world Along the shore at
the base of the mountain lies the city
Here we get the first glimpse of that
mixture OF eastern and western civil
deal before the trip is ended. The En-
clish occupy the extreme end Of the
peninsula. then comes a small strip Of
unoccUpied land called the neutral
zone" and then the old Spanish town.
These reveal a sharp contrast even be-
tween European methods. The English
town is we'll kept, >smart in its appear
ance. with modern buildings and ways.
The Spanish town is composed Of snail
streets, of low ramshackle houses. dir
~ and bad smelling, TO which the poD-
ulatiOn contributes its full quota Of
odOrs- There is somewhere in Span
ISL official publications the statement
that Gibraltar is temporarily occu-
ped" by the British This little
friendly visit has lasted now about 80
years. and there appears 70 be no rival
in sight TO knock this Gibraltar chin
eff the Englishman's shoulders. It is
essentially a fortress town, main
tanned by the soldiers, their purveyors
and the tourists. The curious shops
the narrow streets, the variety Of
strange costumes and wearers, the ON
nipresence Of the relocated Tommy
Atkins, and just over the line the
Spaniard swelled out in blue and green
regalia-aIl presented a very lively pic-
ture. over all frOwn the big guns and
concealed Qualifications probably some
time 10 engage in one Of the greatest
naval battles of history for the con-
troll of this gateway of the important
Mediterranean. We went through
some Of the underground passages. ex-
cavated 125 years ago, In which are
planted some old guns. mostly uSe1 for
firing saiutes. Visitors, even in this
comparatively innOcuous section. are
checked of and carefully accounted
for. The accompanying sentry herds
the people like sheep. One can scarce
" Ioiter and certainly viii not be left
behind. From the open holes in the
lower face OF this big. sheer rock, we
were able to look out and down upon
the town and ships. which i'm the indO-