The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-10-20
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sdsr'sd OrfsNsai shspss and sttRs 10 ,hssr
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,te mc'ure.pue sspscs ~ the Chiuess es.
msn's hsv~ p~rcfuc~a coats that are a.
graceful and practicsl 90 They are p,c-
tt~.rus ~ the founta ton 81 s,ch q
roa' . usually in black sasin NJ sasin NJ
dark color. the Chipese coat 10 eminensly
seryicrsbie for evening wear and yet The
ssv colored embro,derss uve IL ~brsshsness
end piquancy which arc m ually lacking In
/. really prsatic~l evening wrap,
some models nave the short coats .n.
nrely embroidered and supplemented by
lonG ample lower sections Of plain satin or
cloth. For example. one of the imported
cloaks pictured here had its body Of plum
satin embroidered all over In Chinese de-.
srn and coloring, while the lower mart
Of tho coat was Of plain plum color broad
cloth and the lining Of the vhole coat was of
soft satin in q dull Chinese blue which
figured prominently in the embroidery and
hsrmonined delightfully."- with the plum
tones. Gold almost always enters into
the embroidery. and handsome Oriental
clasps or Of gold fasten the
coat fronts together.
Another model, also reproduced among
the sketches. had ito upper part OF gorgeous
embroidery on q dull dark blue satin and
the lower half or skirt Of the coat in soft
black satin. At the bottom Of tho coat in
the corner OF zach front wss a huge square
of embroidery or blue satin-matching The
upper part Of the cloak.
A rather light blue with a peacock tone
is sometimes the foundation for the heavily
embroidered portion Of the mandarin coat. |
plain black satin or q very dark blue satin
being used with II.
The kimono coat, while not 10 new A the
mandarin coat, has obtained firm hold
upon tho favor Of designers and wearers. |
and kimono influence 10 widespread in coat |
dom, though the models are seldom purely |
Japanese in line or design. In velvet. |
cloth. satin. even fur, the kimono idea Is
developed. and the kimono sleeves and
shoulders are introduced upon O legion Of
coats which nave no other claim to jap
anese character.
1t is on the handling Of the sleeve and |
shoulder dre ,,ery that many Of the smart
models in light colored ~broadcloth rest
almost all Of their clam to ~artistic modiah- |
ness. The cape idea begins where the
kimono idea leaves on and IL 10 difficult some
times to know whether one should call a
model draped cape or kimono coat. Some
Of the cloth coats arc Handsomely braided
Nth s~outache. hand braiding being Of
course essential to true elegance.
There are exquisitely braided coats Of silk
and satin. too. all in one tone effects and
enriched by handsome ornaments. pend
ants. &C.. with possibly somc heavy hand
embroidery OF self color or In self color with
gold or silver to add to the elaboration. |
Velvet IL made up in the same way. with
self color braiding. embroidery. &C.. and
never have there been % msny superb
coats OF this kind intended for afternoon
use over visiting gown. carriage gown. &c.
Indeed the afternoon wrap in dark colors
ID the sensation Of the season in Paris. where