The Virginia enterprise. [volume] (Virginia, St. Louis County, Minn.) 1893-19??, 1907-08-02

lengths of scantling three inches wide
by one inch thick preferably of hard
wood) are required. Cut two Of them
ports Of the frame, IA, Fig. l.; an
other, two feet six inches long, for the
top, B, Fig. /; another, 26, inches
long, to form the slanting part, G,
Fig. 1; and another, D, approximately
one foot, according to the slant given
c. After mailing these together as
shown in the illustration, nail two
short strips on each side of the out
let, as at E, to keep the frame from
spreading.
Cut two pieces 30 inches long. Lay
these on the sides of the frame with
their center lines along the line FF,
which is Is inches from the outside
top of the frame. They are shown
in Fig. as GG. Do not fasten these
boards now, but mark their position
on the frame. Two short boards one
inch wide by one inch thick (HH, Fig.
q, and another one inch by one and
one-half inch q, Fig. p, form a SUBJ
stantial base.
Cut the wheel from sheet iron one
sixteenth of an inch thick, "a inches
in diameter. This can be done
roughly with a hammer and chisel and
then smoothed up on an emery wheel,
after which cut "a radial slots three
fourth of an inch deep on it's circum-
ference by means of hacksaw. On
each side of the wheel at the center
fasten a rectangular piece of one
fourth inch iron three by four inches
and secure it to the wheel by means
of four rivets; after which drill a
five-eighth inch hole through the ex-
act center of the wheel.
Cut "a pieces of 1-32-inch iron, one
and one-half by two and one-half
inches. These are the paddles. Shape
them by placing one end over a section
of one-inch pipe, and hammer bowl.
shaped with the peen of hammer,
as shown in Fig. 4. Then cut them
into the shape shown in Fig. 3 and
bend. the tapered end in along the
lines j, after which place them in the
slots of the wheel and bend the sides
over to clamp the wheel. Drill one
eighth-inch holes through the wheel
and sides of the paddles and rivet
paddles in place. Next secure five
eighth-inch steel shaft IL inches long
to the wheel about eight inches from
one end by means Of key. This is
done by cutting groove in the shaft
and a corresponding groove in the
wheel and fitting in a piece of metal
in order to secure the wheel from
turning independent of the shaft. Pro-
cure two collars or round pieces of
brass Xxx, Fig. y, with a five-eighth-
inch hole through them, and fasten
these to the shaft by means of set
screws to prevent it from moving
lengthwise.
Make the nozzle by taking a piece
of one.half-inch galvanized pipe three
and one-half inches long and filling it
with babbitt metal; then drill three
sixteenthinch hole through its CEN
ter. Make this hole conical, tapering
from three.sixteenth inch to a full
one-haf inch. This is best done by
using square taper reamer. Then
place the nozzle in the position shown
in Fig. 1, which allows the stream of
water to strike the buckets full in the
center when they reach the position
farthest' to the right.
Take the side pieces, GG, and d1fn
a one-inch hole through their sides cen
.trally, and a one-fourth-inch hole from
the tops to the one-inch holes. Fasten
them in their proper position with
the wheel and shaft in place, the shaft
projecting through the holes just
mentioned. Now block the wheel;
that is, fasten it by means of wedges
or blocks Of wood until the shaft is
exactly In the center of the inch holes
in the side pieces. Cut four discs Of
cardboard to slip over the shaft and
large enough to cover the inch holes.
Two Of these are to Dc inside and two
outside Of the frames tone 70 bear