davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30

lingerie materials is considered excessively
chic, and the braid embroidery is frequently
combined with embroidery in silks, closely
crowded knots filling in certain details Of
the design.
+ Even In Paris hand embroidery, whether
in soutaahe or in other materials, Is no
longer cheap. The French work girlspf to-
day set aside the traditions Of their class and
instead Of plying the needle as their mothers
and grandmothers did before them they
prefer to 60 into shops and factories.
So the Partisan dressmakers must pay
more for embroideries than they once did
and their customers must pay more for
their frocks in proportion; yet sven now
such hand work is much cheaper in France
than it is here.
First class soutache work Is difficult to
obtain here even when one Is willing to
pay the price; and for the woman who
longs TO follow the dictates Of the mode,
yet cannot afford to nave her frock en-
broidered by hand, the soutache embroid-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30

~tinction at all to-day must be loaded with
hand work.
The princesse lines are still the preferred
lines for the handsome lingerie frock
though the princesse form is often obtained
merely 10y setting a blouse and skirt together
with u lace. This type Of frock, entirely
hand made and worn over a soft slip OF
India silk, is OF course charming but does
not speak of the master hand as does one
Of tho more purely ~prinoesse models in
which the ~priqnesse lines are obtained
through clever cutting and skilful handling
OF m%ultiudinous tiny tucks and other
trimming, but a successful gown of the
latter type is likely to be Of price appalling
to the average woman.
The idea Of tho 'exqulsitely fine lingerie
skirt worn with a coat Of heavier material
has long been popular, but each season
sees variations upon it. This summer
picturesque little coats Of colored shan
tung almost entirely covered with hand
embroidery either,in silks or soutache are
being worn in Paris with lingerie skirts,
as well as with sheer skirts OF silk mousse
line, net, dc, and coats Of colored linen are
used In the same way.
Some Of the models are OF Louis XIV.
persuasion, with fairly long skirts, trimmed
pockets and other features Of the period,
but loose, graceful coats Of many types are
also liked and a majority Of them are Law
ishly embroidered in fine ~soqtache.
Soutaohe embroidery is, indeed, the most
~virulent fashion epidemic Of the season,
and by prodigal use Of it modish frocks are
made not only elegant but distressingly
expensive. Machine embroidery will not do
for the elegante, Her soutachinG must be
doneby hand andthe designersachieve beau
tiful efects OF intricate figure and line far
removed from the ordinary soutache braid
ing lone in commonplace designs and by
ma chine.
The finest OF braid is used and as a rule
it Ia applied on edge, Usually the braiding
matches in color the material TO which IL is
applied, and that material may be anything
from tho hlmiest chiffon or null 10 sub
stantial linen or satin or cloth.
soutache embroidery upon the very sheer
MATERIALS aPd especially upon the finest
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30
in the wider insertions and edgings seem

in the wider insertions and edgings seems
heavy in narrow widths.
so great has been the demand for narrow
Noes that both in fine valencinees and in
the popular narrow cluny laccs there has
been a pronounced scarcity. Narrow baby
Irish lace, too, is hard TO find.
The prevalence OF guimpes and under
sleeves in the summer frocks has made
| emphatic demand upon the allover nets
and laces and upon net top and valenciennes
laces. Nine frocks out Of ten show n trans
parent guimpe and sheer sleeves. and
sleeves composed entirely Of lace frills
are among the chief favorites.
This generally accepted fashion Of put
ting transparent cream or white next the
face Ia universally becoming. and II Ia long
since a season has set the stamp of popu-
larty upon anything 80 pretty and becom-
ing as the guimpes and underlseeves Of
this year. Unfortunately many a dress
maker lacks the taste and skill TO achieve
the individuality and the daintiness which
are the marks of success in these details
and many a pretty frock Is spoiled by a
clumsily made or coarse guimpe and sleeves
but such blunders are ineXcusable.
The fashion journals present pictures OF
excellent guimpes and sleeves and the i'm
ported models to be seen in all the first
class shops offer excellent suggestions along
these lines, for it il in details such as these
that the French dressmaker as a rule
outranks the American dressmaker.
The guimpe frocks are to be found In
every class Of costumes from the cheapest
Of ready made cotton frocks 10 the most
elaborate and elegant Of Partisan visiting
and Casino frocks. and the idea il illus
trated in the simple jumper frock as well
al in the costume Of more pretentious
character.
II IL hard TO select examples from 30
enormous a field, but the sketches repro
duced here have been confined To the sim
pier types Of guimpe frock, A few OF the
models were French and expensive because
Of hand work upon them, hut even these
might save In one instance he reproduced
IN simpler form without losing their smart
mesa.
The one exception is 9 gown Of blue
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30
A GreAt Hannre.

Boston correspondence Hartford Courdnf.
The biggest bonfire ever seen in this vicinity
was the burning Saturday night OF the old
Portsmouth. N. H., Government drydock,
which was toved to the Point OF Pines a few
weeks ago to he broken up for junk.
Theimmense structure. which cost 81 900, 900,
went up In smoke for the amusement OF
about 10000 people. The old dock was nred
at 7;So. and 30 solid was the timbering that
after blazing for six hours the frame still
stood. II wal $50 feet long and 10 feet wide
and contained millions OF feet OF hes Wy timber,
Great sheets OF flame shot up hundreds OF feet
wac seen far out TO sea. Scores Of Yachts
and launches took out pleasure parties and
lay In the vicinity to watch the burning,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30

tussor-a material firmly rooted in Pariaian
favor this summer. The French makers
use this silk for costumes OF all sorts, from
the tailored troteuT 10 the elaborate after
noon or dinner gown, and in the latter they
generally associate with itggreat quantities.
Of hand embroidery in self tone.
The frock Of our sketch. simple OF line
and trimmed plainly but effectively in well
adjusted lines Of black silk braid, sobtained
the needed touch Of distinction from self
color embroidery IN the front panels OF
bodice and skirt, and the dainty handmade
guimpe and sleeves OF net and lace added
TO the quiet elegance Of the frock.
HAND embroidery figured too In the design
Of a particularly pretty little French frock
OF dotted wolfe which we saw in the res
taurant from which we have wandered so
far aheld. The material was In rose.
sprinkled with tiny dots OF white and
trimmed in narrow folds Of rose liberty,
Bordering the guimpe, which ran down
to a deep point in front, was a band OF en-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30

est OF the French frocks as well as in the
cheap, ready made jumper dresses.
Take for example a frock Of the Pekin
stripe black and white silk wolfe which
has attained such pronounced popularity
Here again we bark back to the restaurant
dinner, for the frock was worn there by
one Of a party who had evidently motored
In from out Of town.
The woman who wore II had a charming
figure and the gown was beautifully cut
and hung and draped, but the draped
surplice bodice and the fun skirt, plated
in tiny plaits at the waistband and pressed
not stitched. we're OF the simplest. A
narrow fold Of black Liberty satin bordered
the surplice edges. and a fold slightly wider
was set at he bottom Of the skirt.
There were little bows OF black satin
set on the front and back Of the girdle
which was Of the folded voile. So much
for the body of the frook, but the guimpe
and the underlsleeves Of net and lace were
works Of art. SO fine and dainty and original
were they. and the points OF the V, back
and front, was filled in up to the bust line
with oriental embroidery in vivid barbaric
greens and yellows and blues and reds
lone on white silk mousseline.
Some such bit OF aggressive color is TO
be found on almost every French frock
Of neutral tone or in the favored black
and white, and in it often lies the In
d~ividuality and success oftbe frock.
Surpiioe line frocks of silk such as the
those included among the small cuts are
legion and when well handled make very
attractive little morning frocks or girlish
afternoon frooks, but the v cut overbodice
is getting sadly common among the cheap
models and needs some very distinctive
note IL 1t 10 to be really chic.
A narrow band OF silk embroidered in
large pastilles Of contrasting color Is a
most effective finish for surplice folds and
a similar embroidered band must, Of course,
border the wide oversleete. A button
holed scallop edge with an embroidered
pastille in the centre OF each large scalop
is another surplioe finish which will give
smartness without demanding an Ell
travagant amount Of handwork, and we
have seen most attractive jumper frocks
Of linen trimmed in this manner.
Whole overbodices on surplice lines
are made Of fine cluny lace or OF darned
flet and bound on the edges with folds OF
Liberty satin. These are worn over blouse q
OF chii on or net, with skirts OF wolfe or silk
whic b the lace is dyed to match.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30

out to him, by way OF substitute. he shook
his head.
enc; the white muslin and blue ribbon
girls are all shut up in old daguerreotypes.
he said mournfully. these summer dresses
are all silk lined
And he was very nearly right. Our
simplicity. even in sumper. Is OF the
sophisticated kind and the modish summer
frock Is likely TO be a thing more compli-
GATED than m would imagine at first
glance.
Heavy tulle or net, silk muslin, chiffon,
marquisette and a multitude Of lovely
sheer silken etuTs are first favorites for
dressy summer frocks, though fine lingerie
tufts and linens lavishly embroidered and
inset with lace are beloved by those who
can afford to wear them. A smart lingerie
frock ls a more expensive thing than one
Of some silken tissue; for. though tho latter
must have its silk lining and yelling, &c,
it may perhaps be sslmplys trimmed, while
the lingerie frock in order TO have dis
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30
GOLFERS CURIOUS DRIVE.
Playing From n Treetop- Ball That
Eounded Back TO Starting Poiht.

From ne Poll Mall Gafere.
An odd incident occurred on Saturday
during a match at the Golf Club de Paris. near
Versailles. Two players in the open amateur
championship were at the fourteenth tee,
when one sent his drive up a tree. The bali
remained fixed between two branches: a
oaddie. climbing up discovered its presence
there.
A great consultation arose as 10 what should
be done. The committee was hastily sum-
moned and stood beneath the spreading
branches OF the tree. much in the fashion
in which st, Louis dispensed justice in a
primitive France. Evidently the ball was not
out OF bounds. Finally the judges decreed
that either a new ball should be dropped on
the tee. counting two. or the ball should
be played from the spot. To save the point.
the golfer bravely Skinned up the tree and
played his ball from the embracing fork,
making. indeed. quite a goo stroke,
Later in the afternoon from the same tee
] witnessed another curious incident. The
player had driven. and his ball, striking the
sand box OF the ladies' tee, nifty yards ahead,
bounded back TO is starting place. The
player then drove into the bunker with his
second shot, which is also something OF a
performance.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30

entire design Is often darned or embroidered
upon the plain net, and again embroidery
may be used merely to reinforce a lace
design.
Cross stitch embroidery in Bulgarian or
Rumanian designs and colorings is seen in
these hlet trimmings, but the most popular
idea is that Of dyed net embroidered boldly
in self-tone or in several shades Of the self
color, with perhaps an occasional thread
Of gold in the design. Many OF the fash
ionable colorings are shown in these trim
miags and they have found ready sale.
The woman who is skilful with her needle
will not find it a difficult matter to en-
broider lightly q good flet lace, for the
design is usually Of a sort that lends itself
TO such reinforcement.
The flet mesh has found it's way even
into the province OF valenciennes, and a
square meshed valenciennes has attained
some popularity for the trimming OF muslin
frocks. 1t lacks, however, the fineness OF
the ordinary mesh and though effective
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30
HEGEMAN & CO.,
200 Broadway, ana Branches
GARDEyIAs DOWN TO 10 CENTS.
Unprecedented Slump In the Price OF tire
Most Arlstocratlc E1aMcr.

In New York the most aristocratic q
all lowers is the gardeniR. Strangers here
have been known to form mistaken i'm
pressions Of women who were not in the
least fashionable merely because they
happened to be wearing gardenias. Men
who wear gardehias with evening dress arr
said TO take on a distinction that no other
buttonhole lower can impart.
This quality is. Of course, expensive and
the gardenia costs in the winter usually
$3.50. When the delicate flowers are scarce
and the stems are long and the leaves green
and waxy the most expensive florists get
as much as 81 for them.
They are so fragile hat they last only a
short time. A touch turns the petals
brown and the flowers never survive the
night.
This spring the gardenia has for the first
time become democratio and taken its
place on the baskets carried by the street
sellers OF flowers. 1t can be bought at
10 cents. Never before was IL to be &C
quired in this way and at such a price. The
reason was explained by a florist TO TIE
Sun reporter.
Fresh gardenias are in such demand in
New York during the season tina they are
very profitable he said. Consequently
al the growers are devoting a great deal
When WI 10 the i%s% Spring oameJan the green.
houses were full Of gardenia plants etill
blooming and likely TO bloom for some
time TO oome. Then there was the spring
crop 70 be sent away to the summer resorts,
for which there has been 90 far no demand
this year.
This combination OF circumstances and
the fact that the persons who buy gardenias
are out Of town and the occasions FOR wear-
ing them are also past left the large supply
with no demand. So after they had been
for a short time In the flower shops they
were handed over 10 the street dealers. ana
for the first time these high priced blossoms
were sold on the streets for 10 cente.
The growers will see TO II, however,
that nothing Of the kind happens again"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30
What MARY Said.
From Putndm's MdooSin,.

FTUW 7 uFNuW . ~ upuHIHF,
Judge Brewer cites a striking era mple
Of The sort OF spoke which the trickster can
insert Ia the wheels OF Justice.
A witness testified In a certain case that
a person named Mary was present when a
particular conversation took place, and the
question was asked what did Mary saySs
This was objected To- and after tome discus
exception 70 this decision was immediately
TAKEN and on, appeal the higher court re-
the ground that the question should have
been answered.
AZ the. second trial the eamS INQUIRY vas
MARY eatd nothinGl
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30
STRIPED GOWN.

for the display Of bedu1 vegr and mart
toilettes, but there are always the popular
restaurants, and every night they are well
filed. The dinner of July is
amore informal thing than that of January,
Ind there are t~oilettes OF all sorts on view,
from the tailored frock Of linen to the airy
feAtion OF chiffon and lace.
The woman who is In town just for the
day has dressed for hot weather shopping
and put a clean BLOUSE in her bag for dinner
The women whe have motored In from
Long Island or Westchester have com
promised on d~emi-toilettes and appear in
charming but unRretentious frocks of silk
or ~marquisetts or linen or wolfe when they
drop their motor coats. The. woman who
IL making the best OF q summer in town
or hes ]oSme to Hew-York as a refuge from
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30

cries on chiffon, which are among the
high class trimmings, will prove a boon.
These are made by machine, but the manu-
facturers have been happy in their designs
and the work is carefully done. Bands
Of various kinds and separable motifs
in great variety are offered in this trimming
and by clever use OF this embroidery on
self-tone chinon on net an effect closely
resembling that of embroidery on the
frock material may he obtained.
Among the more expensive Of the FASH
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30

lines. leaving a deep V front and back to be
filed in with net OF lace or chino on or what
n will. Innumerable changes are rung
upon this idea and an astonishing number
Of inexpensive frocks in taffeta, ponRea,
wolfe. linen and cotton materials arc made
up along such lines. Often the efect 10
quite attractive, though onS weariea Of
the general idea, and this sams Gurplios
effect Ia 10 be found In some Of the smart
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30
His Use for a Fork.
ne

FTOW INC UfNrtT POeT.
A Denver man had a friend from a Kansas
ranch In the city Saturday on q business
deal, and OF noon they went 10 a downtown
restaurant and had lunch together. The
Kansas rRnchmBn ate his eutlTe meal with
hls knife. When he was nearing the end
that he had no fork.
Say" he said to the Denver man. thu
waiter didn't give me a fork"
Denver man seriously.
The deuce ] don't. came from the K6naG1,
what am ! going 10 stir my coffee With
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30

broidery lone In rose on white silk mousses
line and bordered by folds of silk, Lace
might well be substituted for this en-
broidery and lines of lace might be intro
duced into the skirt in place Of the narrow
inset lines of embroidery. One good feature
of this frock was the softly folded fchu
partially filling in the space left by the low
cut bodice and leaving only a shallow guimpe
Of v~alenciennes showing.
Simplest and most numerous Of all the
guimpe frooks are those Of s~urplicelike
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30

q hotter climate is out in a d~iaphanous
toilette Of more or less elaborate type.
We have no summer fashion season such
a. London and Paris know. but we wear
our good c~lothes-with a difference.
Where are the white muslins and blue
nbbonsi' sighed a mere man as he glanced
about the main room Of one OF the Fifth
avenue restaurants a few evenings ago.
When the lingerie frocks were. pointed
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30

ionable trimmings are a number into which
handlwork enters, and such trimming adds
much elegance to a frock at a cost less than
that Of hand embroidery done directly
upon the frock material.
The flet nets and laces embroidered in
one or several shades lare the most con.
spicuous example Of such trimming, and
some OF these embroidered hlct nets are
wonderfully handsome and effective, A
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30

but q part OF the summer away from town,
and in this day Of the motor even the alb
sentees are often in evidence. 1t is easy
to u in from nearby resorts or from coun-
try homes in any of the beautiful districts
within fifty miles Of New York; and there
are times when tennis and golf and natupe
worship pail upon the exiles and city roof
} gardens and restaurants seem greatly to
be desired.
Then, too, there are the innumerable
summer travellers drifting from resort
to resort and dropping of for, a few days
In Ne*;Yo rk en- route. The annual invasion
OF Southern women is at its height in July.
Various actresses noted for their smart
clothesa are r%ehearsing fall plays and oanno
wander away from Broadway. Oh. yes,
there are pretty women and good clothes
Enough and to spare in New York all through
he summer.
There are fewer favorable occasions
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-06-30
SUMNER DRESS SHOW
T~oiIettes Of All Sorts Now on
View IN the City
SEEN AT RESTAURANT DINNERS
Tailored Frocks and Airy Things
of Chiffon and Lace.

rhe white Muslin md Blue Ribbons Put
Aside for Lingerie spiendors -PrIn-
cess Lines stIlI Preferred -ExquiStely
Fine lingerie Skirts and Heavier Coats
Very Popular -soutachc Embroidery
Done by Hand q Rage-Guimpes and
Underslcey s-Surpice lime Frocks.
The fashionable crowd is out and away
from the city, but after all tho fashion
lble world, so called, has no monopoly
" modish clothes, and there Is never a
lime, even in midsummer, when New York
,anno furnish interesting matter for the
student Of the modes.
A host Of women. who dress well spend
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1907-03-09

Congress at it's last session passed
an important amendment to the pro-
cedure in federal courts, 1t allows
writs of error or appeals on behalf of
the government in certain criminal
cases, as, for example, from decisions
quashing or sustaining demurrers to
indictments, where the ground for such
demurrers is the invalidity or construc-
ton Of the statute upon which the in
dictment is founded, or from decisions
sustaining special pleas in bar where
the defendant has not been put in jeo-
pardy The passage of the law will
remedy a weakness which has long
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1907-03-09
HERE ARE
1907 STYLES

Certain interesting DEGREES have
been issued by the Custom Cutters
Associa of America in convention in
Chicago in January:
The top coat, which has been neg
lected by the fashion-makers for the
last three years, will return to favor
as a stylish garment this spring.
This has been decreed by the Custom
Cutters.
The return OF the box overcoat to
fashionable vogue will be the most
notable change in the new spring
styles for men," says John Melangton,
an official of the Association. "The
top coat will be with us again In tans
and grays. There will be few Ches-
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1907-03-09

The average man never misses an
opportunity to show off before a pretty
woman.
The woman who can use her eyes
with effect is more dangerous than
her garrulous sister.
A man isn't necessarily a coward be-
cause he is afraid to argue with a wo-
man. Perhaps he has sense.
Our idea of a credulous man is one
who believes that one woman can treat
another with silent contempt.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1907-03-09
|E|E.

FRESH CALIFORNIA, We
GETABLE AND FLOWER
SEEDS IN &c PACKAGES
JUST RECEIVED.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1907-03-09

terfields and Newmarkets, but the
top coat will be the garment for the
men who follow the ultra fashion
able models"
For sack suits, coats will be close
fitting and two inches or more short
er than the models of a year ago.
The went will be absent, as will also
the "fare" and increase at the hips.
The coats will be cut high with a
short, soft roll.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1907-03-09

The Advertiser is wrong in stating
that Admiral Beckley is a Rear Ad-
miral His title is Admiral. He rose
from the title of Commodore to that
of Admiral at about the. same time that
Admiral Dewey rose from the rank
of Commodore to that of Admiral This
is stated in no spirit of controversy,
but merely for the sake of historical
truth and for the information of those
who might otherwise be misled as to
Beckley's exact title.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1907-03-09

One Of the most pathetic stories
that have wound themselves into
the annals of Hawaii is that of the
agonized refusal of the mother Of
Algernon G.. Shaw, who mysteri-
ously disappeared in Honolulu in