The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-05-12
lEHNEN FROCKS CONSPICUOUS.
iN IMPORTANT ITEM IN THE
q SUMMER GIRLS OUTFIT. 80

,nertant items OF the summer Bnis AZ
asnS 20 lovely are the new linens ootn
a color andin quality, that 1t ID dtfiouit 70
~uDoutent oneself with one or WI frooks IN
eha delectable materials. Moreover. the
linen frock answers so many purposes
ef4o-dRy.
" II Ia to be bought In all grades OF elao-
GRAFTON. from the most severe OF tauoreo
GOAT and skirt suits to the most ornAte Oh
embroidered and lace trimmed prinoeSSe
or Empire gowns. and between these e1-
tresnes are a host Of pretty coat ana sNn'
brooks. jumper frocks, DO.
String color linens and linens IN the
creamy biscuit shadings are particularly
popular this season and more OF the smart
tailored coats and skirts Of linen are turned
mt In these shades than In any otner'
White collars and cuffs may be added OF
not. but some OF the best talors aovise
tailored collars and cuffs, faced with Whte
Frenoh pique, and this touch Of White does
make the coat more becoming and ao.oh
60 It's appearance Of GOODNESS.
White linen is OF course always liked ioI
ooat and skirt suits, as are the sou oun
blues. and this year the darker ans ana
browns are considerably in demand khakl
ard saddle brown In particular aithough
Ia latter will undoubtedly look best on
brolling midsummer days.
The tailored linen coats are htted or
aemi-ftting in the back, loose in front ana
Of whatever length 10 best suited 70 the
yaearer, although the preference ID TOT
comparatively short coats.
For the dressier coat and skirt sun
the loose falling coat varying in length TON
the waist line to well below the hip line
has the preference. Some very attractive
late importations. however, show ntted
ooats OF half length and belted coats with
half length or ever t~hree-quarter length
ukirts, and rumor has it that these longer
coats and coats defining the figure win ieao
the late season in Paris.
They do not, of course. lend themselves
90 readily to Tubing as do the short loose
coa1s. but the elaborate linen gown goes
"a the cleanser rather than to the
nowadays.
soutache braiding plays an important
mart IN the o~rnamentation OF the somewhat
.elaborate linen coat and skirt costume n
a. a trihe newer than band embroidery'
though it has by no means elbowed the
latter aside. Often the two. are combined,
.andsan effective trimming, Illustrated in
TIA blue linen model sketched here, lie made
With soutache ~braiding, whose design 10 in
csrtain parts filled in with heavy. thickly
cot, embroidered knots.
This particular model. which was an
\ extremely chic one, was OF dull blue linen
braided and embroidered in white. The
lpose little coat with it's jaunty lines and
IT. attractive details was supplemented
Inv an deliberately braided skirt, as is the
case In most OF the French models OF this
class, but many women prefer a simpler
ekdrt trimming.
White linen coats and skirts trimmed
n with narrow Irish crochet insertion and
hand embroidery are a up upon very
simple lines with loose. collarless. short
aleeyed coats and plainly gored skirta.
The heavy openwork insertion outlines
an the seams and a very narrow correspond
ing edge finishes the borders Of the coat.
English eyelet work and heavy blind
embroidery are usually combined In The
bold designs which are embroidered by
band on the coat fronts around the neck,
on the cuds and around the skirt bottom.
Small round medallions Of Irish crochet In
the heavy rose design whose petals are
separate are often introduced throughout
She embroidery design. being set into the
linen with openwork stitchery.
The bold Breton embroideries In red and
blue are greatly liked in Paris for the trim
ming Of string color and white linens, and
some pretty French models In linen have
EngNsh openwork embroidery in color on
white or string color. Such embroidery
In brown p natural toned linen, IL con-
eidered very smart, and dull Copenhagen
blue on string color Ia very elective.
Similar embroideries In self -tone are used
upon linens in all oolors. One Of the
originals OF our sketches was In a lovely
shade Of rose linen and was embroidered
by hand in self-tones, the embroidery
bordering the V shaped back and front Of
the blouse and forming q panel down the
centre front Of the plated skirt. A very
striking French frock OF linen. In the bright
onion brown shade known as cassia, was
embroidered in b~uttonholed scallops and
English openwork with white. ,
Cluny lace Ia AZ popular as Irish lace for
the trimming Of linen and 10 newer, while
handsome flet laoes with hand darned
design are the handsomest thing that car
be u1sd upon the dressy linen frock.
The Jumper or guimpe frock OF linen lie
epidemic and designers are puzzling their
brains TO devise models for such frocks
which will have originality and set them
n oOSNo WIG OOhliliOh pluCts huilu CbiDIplocIy
playR Its role here, as upon the fancy coats,
but there are attractive little guimpe frocks
of linen trimmed entirely in little strsppings
and buttons and selling for most reasonable
prices.
An openwork trimming formed by
putting two narrow bands OF the linen
two and a half or three inches apart and
Joining them by little linen straps alter
mating with open spaces Of the same width
OF the straps is excellent for the linen
guimpe frock, and narrow bands Of linen
embroidered by hand In wafer dots OF
contrasting color give good results without
sailing for much needlecraft or time.
IN Buttons covered with linen and en-
broidered with dots, starr or circles Of con-
hraseng color are another Of the easily
achieved details which give individuality
pnd distinction TO a simple frock.
I'll Linens with embroidered dots sprinkled
over their surfaces ave been shown this
seAson, but have not taken remarkably
vel, though one eeee an occasional frock
81 dotted linen with the dots In self color.
The silk lnens-"toile de so~ies-hArdly
come under the head OF linen, but are Of
fe1es in beautiful colorings and qualities
and are favortes with the French makers,
Tcale de sole In wild pekin stripes Of pale
ri blue and white roaa and whisa aIunaod