New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1907-06-09
THE FASHION SPY.
Tricks She Resorts To in Aid of Her
Empl0yer.


ABOUT twelve months ago a man was arrested
IN Paris charged with bribing an accomplice to
steal some of the latest millinery models lust
invented for the forthcoming winter season by
famous French modste At his trial II ap-
peared that he represented an English firm. and
mao BEEN In fact endeavoring to procure for
practically nothing, patterns worth a very large
gum OF money.
such patterns, indeed, represent an expendi-
lure OF thought, labor and hard cash on the part
OF me select firms who originate new fashions
OF which the ordinary man has no conception.
Skilled artists have to be employed and paid
very high salaries; indeed few craftsmen
anywhere make such good incomes as those
whose work is to design hats and bonnets.
The models, whether of dresses or hats. are
prepared long before they are required and are
guarded as jealousy a government guards
the secret plans of its forts and submarines.
1hey are shown to none but few wealthy.
wei known customers, and even these are al
lowed to see only the models likely to appeal
to them personally
For these precautions there are only too good
reasons Enterprising and INSCRIPTIONS firms,
who can not or will not employ fashion artists
OF the first class, and yet do not wish to be
behind the times. will stop literally at nothing
to obtain the new designs. They usually employ
a spy or pirate, whom they send out with a
rowing commission TO get hold OF anything
fresh. either by fair means foul OF these
spies only few men; the majority
women, and amazingly clever women they are.
TIE outsider might imagine that the easiest
method OF piracy would be to watch the win
dows Of the smart mners and sketch the new
designs there shown. This practice common
enough time. has now fallen completely
into desuetude. Really designs now
adays seldom, Il ever. displayed in shop win
dows. When they are thus exhibited it is only
long after their first invention. when they have
become more or less common property.
The object Of the modern millinery pirate, how
ever is by some means to get hold of the new
fashions well in advance OF the coming season;
and however jealousy guarded the new models
are, she-I have said most pirates are women
very often succeeds. and the real owner has the
modification of seeing his novelty anticipated
by some firm of Infinitely less Importance than
his own. No later than afternoon OF last
spring the proprietor OF one OF the smartest
shops in the West End Of London noticed lady
walking in the Park attired in dress almost
an exact copy OF a brand new model Of mis- own,
a model which not half & dozen people had seen
besides It's inventor and himself. The design
had been registered, but the copy was Just sur
7centy altered 70 steer clear OF legal difficulties.
most searching inquiry revealed the fact that
the culprit was lady who had always been con-
sdered OF the firms sHartest and best GUS
toners Her birth and position were less i'm
peachable than the state Of her finances. and she
had accepted the offer OF a Berlin firm to dress
her condition that she supplied them with the
very latest creations" that found their way
from Paris to London. Having the entree OF
the iunerInost sanCtum Of the London firm re-
ferred TO- she had taken adva ntage of their
fdence IN her TO draw their designs from mem
DRY and post them to Berlin. The London firm
had no legal remedy whatever. All they could
do was. when the autumn styles were due, and
the lady called again. inform her courteously
that her patronage no longer desired.
Another lady detected in a similar trick by
the manager Of Regent street firm, very
cleverly punished. Upon her next visit she was
received with the same cordially as ever; and
taken into the showroom. where the latest
models were usually displayed She never sus-
pected. until too late. that the room had been
specially arranged for her reception. The models
exhibited anything but new, and the too
smart firm which employed her was put to vast
expense to work up dresses from patterns resur-
rected from those OF years before, which. con-
sequenty, proved absolutely unstable.
Though tbs description OF piracy have been
describing is chiefly confined to the dressmaking
and millinery business, It IS by no means eX-
clusivey for the purpose OF stealing other peeo-
pies original designs that pushing" firms enlist
the services Of well dressed recruits.
For instance, last summer lady arrived at a
smart seaside hotel--the sort OF place whore
people stay for the whole season She was pretty.
smart and perfectly turned out. 80 well dressed.
IN fact that other women. filled with envy, did
their best TO find out who was her dressmaker
But though she frequently boasted that the PEG
pie were perfect treasures and that her bills
amounted 70 next 70 nothing, she steadfastly re-
fused TO disclose the narne. One day. however
she accidentally dropped an envelope inclosing
a bin from the mysterious dressmaker. Dill
ertfuIly faxed" so as 10 show prices OF startling
cheapness Within a week the firm who en-
ployed this clever lady welcomed dozen ne"
For a large number OF ladies the motor car
boom Of the last few years has procured small
fortunes The manufacturers have not only In
many cases taught pretty women to drive and
manage cars, but in some cases have even round
It worth their while 20 make the dainty chaut-
fause O present OF expensive machine THIS
works in two ways. Not merely does the lady
point out the beauties OF the car to her friends
and acQuaintances. but her photograph, car ana
all usually finds its way into one Of the Illus
trated papers and az the name OF the maker OF
the car is given, the picture forms an unequalled
advertisement.
Hotels too find the lady tout most useful.
Last autumn q very pretty girl arrived at a GER
tain Scotch hydropnthiC establishment with her
mother She was smart, we'll dressed, clever
uusiclan-tust the sort Of girl 70 be thoroughly
popular with both sexes. At once she became
the centre Of a large coterie OF admirers. Then,
after a few days her vivaciOus expression gave
place TO a look OF unutterable boredom, Il can't
stand this place It's deadly dull" she said.
over and over again. Finally. one evening she
announced that she could not support u an hour
longer. She going.
where" was the question.
pack 10 Fitherington," the decided an
swer ut may be n little dearer, but you get
,,our moneys worth there One has such good
time there" And she proceeded to dilate at
length upon the advantages Of the place.
Next day she left. and before the week was out
q large prouortion Of her friends had Followed
her-T C. Bridges in The Grand Magazine
cENTTpA vTETOS TO Y0NKERS CLUBS,