New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1907-05-30
MILK COST WILL RISE"
so SAY ICE CREAM MEN.
Pure Food Lac Keeps ont EUen
Eggs from Their Product.

Ice cream manufacturers IN this city say that
If the recommendation IN regard to ice cream
Of DR.. Wiley's pure food committee holds in
law. so much raw cream will have to be used
in the manufacture of the frozen product that
not only the price Of ice cream will go up. but
The price Of cream and milk viii DE greatly af-
fected. But they say they cannot put Il per
cent Of butter fat in ice cream without making
the product not only unstable. but indigesttble
to any one without a cast iron stomach.
The Circular 10 regulation. printed in yester-
days Tribune. says that ice cream is product
Of cream and sugar. with without favoring,
containing not less than Il per cent of milk
fat" This means that nothing is ice cream
which is not made out Of cream and sugar, but
il also means. ice cream say, that any
thing beyond such. eggs. ordinary milk or
condensed milk added to the mixture, is an
adulteration
Taking up this phase Of the question yester-
day, T. d Cutler, of the publishers of THE
Ice Cream Trade Journal" expressed his opn-
ion of such regulation in no uncertain terms
THE ice cream our mothers made" said he
contained about per cent Of butter fat. 1t
was made of eggs and cornstarch and milk.
That has been known as ice cream for fifty
years or more. Are we now going to be told
that it is not ice cream, that it is frozen
sweet or a frozen pudding?
There is variety OF ice cream known to the
trade as New York ice cream which does not
contain more than per cent of butter fat and
yet is perfectly wholesome and answers the
need of the people who buy il, and suits their
palates and digestion better than anything that
could possibly be made with II per cent of but
ter fat I have been told by reputable physi-
clans in this city that ice cream so rich as ii
per cent fat constituent would make it is al
most poison to persons with weak stomach,
md l,a
ton on either an empty stomach or a full one.
CANNOT sTANDARDIZE IT
The whole trouble lies in trying to stand
ardiZe a mixture that depends for its variety
and constituents entirely upon the character of
trade for which IT is intended and the tastes OF
the persons who eat 1t.
Robert Crane, one of the largest and best
known manufacturers of fee cream in the coun-
try, had this to say Of Standardization OF ice
cream in Pennsylvania: We 1.-THE Pennsylvania
Ice Cream Manufacturers Association hold
and am sure our contention is sound-that ice
cream cannot be standardized because of the
fact that there innumerable varieties of ice
cream. all products Of the same general charac-
ter. but varying widely in their constituent in
gradients. We all make ice creara-and. I doubt
not are willing 10 stake our good name and repu-
tation on its purity and wholesomeness-but
products. Shall submit to the establishment
of q standard that practically restricts the whole
trade to one kind quality of ice cream ard
deprives each and all OF us of the opportunity
10 apply to our business the skill and knowledge
possessed by ourselves and our worknaen?'"
Here Mr. Cutler paused TO take from his desk
some clippings from his journal Among these
was one reviewing the ice cream chapter in the
book by Charles Ranhofer for years the chef of
Den1onico's- Some of the chefs ice creams con-
tanned only per cent of butter fat and one Of
them had no milk at all. while some had II, Il
and even Il per cent butter fat. Mr. Ranhofer
gave the formulas in at the Fifth avenue
restaurant
Dr. Wiley himself, says Mr.. Cutler does not
question the purity and nourishng quality of Ice
cream with a lower percentage of butter fat
than required by his Circular 10 regulation Ac-
cording 10 Mr.. Cutler. the pure food expert said
al & hearing in Louisville: II won't even oues-
ton that your per cent ice cream is better
than the IA per cent, but that is not the ques-
ton The question here is. what is the standard
for ice cream, not what is the best or the poorest
ice cream"
WOULD RAISE MILK PRICE
According to fee cream manufacturers, Il per
cent of butter fat in their product means that
they will have to in their mixture 20 per
cent of cream with g fat content of 90 per cent
or S4S per cent Of cream with q fat content OF
16.5 cent. This. they say. If the people, after
trying the mixture. demanded much of II as
they do now. would cause such heavy draft
upon the milk and cream supply that the price
would inevitably rise. They take into consider
alton, too they say, that the federal regulation
could have effect upon the ice cream made and
sold within a state
Even though by far the larger portion of the
Zee cream manufactured in this city is sold
here, and therefore does not come under the
food and drugs act, there is large business
with New Jersey and Connecticut and In some
cities in the country there are manufacturers
who do the main part Of their business in other
states. In Davenport. Iowa for instance there
is a man who does so per cent of his ice cream
business outside the state On such as he the
federal regulation would fail with particu-
larry hard hand.
Mr.. Cutler says that all reputable dealers are
striving TO drive out Of the business men who
use deleterious substances in their product
But he says gelatine and gum tragacanth are
not harmful. and are used in such small GUAM
Titles that their purpose could not be the crea-
uon OF bulk. These substances are put in he
says simply TO prevent the separation of the
water from the cream, or. rather, to make it
possible TO pack and keep the product a long
tine without spelling 1t. Pure cream ice cream
would become full Of sharp pieces Of ice. This
tbs Selatine does away with
some very small and very unscrilpuIous deal
eTs, ne says, formerly used gelatine that was
little better than glue, but this practice has
been stopped 10 great extent and was never
carried on by the larger manufacturers ac-
cording to Mr.. Cutler He said that every
decent manufacturer wanted TO keep out the
eiu1- he did not think lard cocoa butter was
ever used, for il would be impossible TO mix
them with the product.