Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-06-23

Il and give the appearance OF great
variety in the outfit, is today the
accepted decree. and when it is taken into
consideration that an all important part oi
a costume is a smart and becoming hat 1t
is not astonishing that each year it be-
comes necessary to have this part Of the
trou5seau as generously supplied as the IN
come will allow. Unfortunately the price
demanded for smart millinery does not de-
crease proportionately with the Increased
number of hats sold Per season, but
rather the reverse. and whereas formerly
# vas considered better taste to wear
an inexpensive hat with a simple walking
costume, this is far from being the case
today, and now frequently much OF the
style Of the dress is left to depend upon
the effectiveness of the hat; nor. COM
paratively speaking, is it possible to econ
omize to any extent upon a hat. Nat
uraiiy, it is not necessary to give seventy
five or a hundred dollars for a hat
there is nothing in any way to guarantee
such expense-but for handsome hat
trimmed with rare feathers and plumes
and real lace fairly large price must be
expected. and such a hat is generally
necessary for an elaborate afternoon or
theater gown.
X
There are astonishingly few women who
can trim their own hats successfully, and
unless one has decided kneck IN that
direction there Is no use in attempting to
obtain it. The chief difficulty in trimming
a hat is in acquiring a good frame or
shape. and for some unknown reason 1t is
well-nigh impossible to get the newest
shapes already made UP. 1t is not difficult
to make a good wire frame II one has
really learned how to do 1t, and if one
cares to take the trouble there are plenty
OF places where this art can be taught;
then it is an easy matter to build good
shape on the wire frame. For summer
hats 1t is less difficulty to find a good
leghorn. erin or chip straw. and. trimmed
simply with wreath or clusters Of flowers
and rosettes of ribbon. a most attractive
hat can be fashioned A great many woul-
en- can copy where they cannot create
and spring and summer hats are infinitely
easier and less intricate to put together
than the velvet. fur and felt hats. SO it is
well TO practice first on the straw shapes
and flowers, for these trimmings are much
less expensive-quite considerable item.
1t Is hard to say just what style OF hat
is most in favor at the moment. Ger
ldIu4g there IS IOlIlIlS HOldDIy eAdsBcI-
ated about any Of the models this year,
and when moderation is in vogue it is
possible for all to find out some designs
peculiarly becoming to them and to keep
more or less to these lines. varied, of
course, in each hat. There are practically
turbans and no toques this year, but
for travelling, walking and automobiling
the shapes are smaller than for driving
and for general afternoon wear. Spring
and summer models are really quite diff
ferent, and just now both are to be seen
in great variety. In the country there
are the smart sailor shapes trimmed with
ribbon. feathers or flowers for morning
and for afternoon wide brim white and
pale colored hats of straw and lace; while
those still remaining in the city must wear
darker hats smart combinations Of black
and white and such color effects as are to
a certain extent serviceable and, while cool
and summary in appearance, not light
enough to be conspicuous or inappropriate.
Fortunately the little pony turbans Of a
year ago have disappeared from view.
While to certain extent comfortable to
wear. still some little shade is desirable in
summer hat, and without brim at all
the glare is most unpleasant.
The mushroom shape has survived is
popularity of the early spring but Is now
seen only in its least exaggerated form
the hat fitting almost down on the head,
with the brim bent down slightly all
around. The exaggerated mushroom, which
required an unusually high bandeau and
numberless rosettes of tule and puffs to
NIL in the vacant spaces, Is altogether out
The mushroom hat now in favor Is very
like sailor in effect, for there is little
difference in width of the brim in front,
back or sides II brim exaggeratedly
wide on one side or in back is especially
becoming. then the hat can be trimmed I'D
In some way to make 1t appear less &C.
centric. for while the unusual is always
to be sought, the eccentric had best be
avoided. For a travelling hat in dark blue,
green or burnt straw the small mushroom
shape is trimmed simply with a band of
soft gathered ribbon about the crown
brought down over the brim in back form
ing large cachepeigne in bows and
rosettes In front the brim Is indented
slightly on each side with two large French
roses placed close against the crown Burnt
straw made up in this way. trimmed with
brown or black MORE ribbon and perhaps
two sim quilts in place of the flowers.
makes an excellent hat for town wear or
FOR travelling and has the added advantage
or being smart with a number of different
gowns. Another good plan Is to get a
becoming, rather large mushroom shape
and after filling in the brim underneath
10 buy number OF wide ribbon bows of
different colors. 10 be changed according to
the gown that Is worn. Four yards of
ribbon are ample. and an attractive bow
can be made up in the shop Exceedingly
pretty are the bows formed Of two shades
oil the same coior-pale and deep pink light
mauve and purple. ciel blue. with a deep
Japanese shade. &c. and these can be
made up in the same way. providing two
yards OF each. and the idea can be used
also with the white straw and the lingerie
hats 10 be worn with light wash dresses
The sailor shape is ever a popular one
and this year is no exception to the rule.
For riding tennis, golf. &C., no style Of
hat Is better than plain sailor of rough
straw. and black and white are about
equally fashionable. White sailors change
In size and height OF crown and width Of
brim in accordance with the prevailing
mode. still there Is always enough variety
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