Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-02-10

or restaurant 1. most essential In
these days, when much time is
spent in public-that Is, in going
to the play and in dining or sup
ping at restaurants Much more attention
is now paid to the gowns worn at the thea
ter. and in consequence the effect is far
more brilliant than when women wore any
thing that was most convenient without re-
gard as to whether II was appropriate or
even becoming. .-'-
1t is extremely difficult, all the same,
for the rank and file of women to be gown
ed as they would wish To hold hat and
wrap In ones lap during the entire per-
formance is not conducive to the we'll
being of either the wearer or the gown
and yet unless goes In ones own con-
veyance hat and heavy wrap are obliga-
tory In winter. Only in box can hats be
worn and an entirely different style of
gown. Hats are considered correct at
restaurant II there be a dinner before
the play supper afterward the hat
must be part of the costume.
More and more elaborate are the gowns
designed for so-called theater wear, and
were il not for the difference in the style
of the waist-it being cut high instead of
in deciding to whether it was a ball
gown or theater gown. AT the moment the
lighter, more transparent materials are the
most popular, and with the great number
of them to choose from it is by no means a
difficult task to select attractive designs
and to have variety, and not necessarily
at great expense, either. Hand-painted and
printed chiffons in most exquisite col
orings and designs. and are steadily growing
In favor. They are of necessity expensive,
the hand painted ones. but the printed ones
are effective enough for most people to be
satisfied Herewith. The colors are fasci-
mating. well the fashion of the plain
band of color around the hem, and then the
lines of flowers, leaves or more conven-
iionalized designs, running up toward the
waist in most delicate shad!ngs. These
are in the most fascinating tones of gray
and mauve, while pale blues and pinks are
satisfactory also, if perhaps not so orig
inal.
Much depends upon the Innings for these
thin materials. for they make or mar the
rolorng. and indeed, 1t takes the eye of an
artist to obtain the desired effect in many
Instances. The tones of gray be in
tensied modified and often entirely
transformed by the gray lining, while most
fascinating contrasts in mauve and blue
pr pink and crimson can be accomplished
by the lining being of deeper or fainter
hue. Then for those who prefer the more
conservative Colorings the background of
the same shade or just tone lighter
be had, so that. as can well be imagined,
1t is possible to get an unlimited range of
color. One point in favor of these figured
thin materials should also be borne in
mnd-they require no other trimming the
pattern furnishing that, that lace in
yoke or bertha and the girdle bodice of
satin, velvet or silk is all sufficient. Often,
100 the latter can be omitted when an en-
pire or princess style is chosen.
These styles have been so conspicuously
popular for so long a time that there are
well-founded rumors from the headquarters
of fashion to the effect that they will no
longer rank as prime favorites. In spite of
all the rumors. however, the influence of
the empire style is most distinctly notice
able, and princess gowns are most popular.
There Is not the same exaggerated render
ing of the fashion in either case, but the
lines have been tried and found gener-
ally becoming that the fashions are bound
to remain with us a while longer. Most
interesting is 1t to notice how the lines have
been adapted to the Individual, to accentu-
ate slenderness, to disguise stoutness and
by the hang of the skirt to give style and
grace.
Net lace chiffon gowns for theater
wear are extremely smart and also most
practical, although that advantage does
not as rule enter into the calculations
of the average woman, to whom clothes
represent the end and aim OF existence.
AS has already been said, the figured chif-
fons and gauzes are most attractive, but,
then, other materials trimmed with bands
of silk or velvet are extremely smart. The
clever way in which the bands of ribbon
or silk used to trim the skirts does not
as might be supposed. cut the lines of the
figure and make Il woman look short and
stout, but for some inexplicable reason
known only to the artist dressmaker makes
lne inquire look more slender than ever. A
figured net, trimmed around the foot and
often halfway up the skirt with bands of
tafeta or satin ribbon, Is a most charming
model on princess lines or with the ribbon
put on in horizontal lines rather than the
bayadere plan. To make the skirt hang
well IT is cut extremely wide and full but
the fullness is put in well below the hips,
so that there shall not be even half an inch
of unnecessary width around the hips. AS
may readily be understood this is not an
easy problem to solve, but then the dress
makers art is today well developed that
any modfste worthy of the name can make
an effective design becoming alike to the
stout or slender figure, to the tall or the
petite. White chiffon is too soft to be easily
embroidered The nets that fash
fonabie this year are many of them works
OF art in their elaborate hand embroidery.
At present black and white effects are
much in vogue especially in light trans
parent textures, as lace, net, gauZe and
chiffon. Black chiffon elabora tely made up
with lace. jet and embroidery and laid over
foundation of satin or silk makes a most
serviceable dress and one that will look
smart at all times. The black and white
striped chiffons still seen in great num-
Der, but have been lately superseded by the
printed chiffons before mentioned A black
chiffon skirt may now be deliberately tuck
ed the white showing so distinctly between
the tucks only serving to tighten the gown.
The bodice is relieved and made suitable
for the evening by collar and deep yoke
OF rich lace while the sleeves are often
wholly of lace and white chiffon, or again
are of the black chiffon. embroidered with
only a touch of lace at the elbow cuff. The