Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-11-30
special Correspondence of The Star.
PARIS, November IL

'VHERE are only a few old-fash-
Toned persons left in this world
who express surprise when a
l. cultured man or woman, aristo-
crat or artist, finds it necessary
to go into business These are practical
times and blue blood and the poets genius
are not sufficient weapons in the struggle
for life, but they are mighty good gifts
II seconded by wits. We have recovered
from the somewhat senseless theories
which differentiated between arts, crafts,
professions and trades, CHASING them in
a defined order Of precedence. Nowadays
there are those who need to sell their
wares and those who do not so need. but
generally do sell them, and all the better,
for the amateur is the breadwinner's most
dangerous competitor. And 1t certainly
Is a sensible ing for woman of brains
when she finds herself obliged to make
an income for herself to take advantage
of any talent she may possess. There is
no necessity to defend her action, for all
agree that she is not only to be excused
we do not want to be excused or pitied
nowadays because we have to workout
that she is entirely to be approved Of.
Probably she is to be admired, as is the
latest member Of the army of workers,
Mrs. Richard LIE Gallenne, who after
having won laurels for herself as a writer
Is now to assume a leading position in
the front rank of Partisan modistes under
not bold venture, this, for a foreigne err
to compete in the midst of beauty's
temple with experienced competitors all
around her. Still, Mrs. LIE Galienne can
| not be accused of foolhardin ass. Her
friends, numerous all over the world are
only too glad to support her, not only as
friends. but as her customers" as Mrs.
LIE Caffeine SO sensibly describes them
This lady is well equipped for her bust
ness career with technical knowledge and
natural taste, for millinery is not limited
to trimming a shape or tying a modish
bow, etc. The up-to-date art must be
able to make her own shapes of silk,
satin, velvet, cloth or straw. Mrs. LIE
Gallienne studied the technica,ities in an
ordinary atelier side by side with the lit
tie ''midinettes." learning to make wire
| frames and other secrets Of this intri-
| cate art. and at last she learned at which
wholesale houses the best m ateria.s are
to be procured and incidentally had the
good fortune to obtain introductions to
,hess people. for, strange to say. tn sc
firms will not sell to all applicants. In
fact. they absolutely refuse to deal with
any but f1rst-class milliners. The diff
Guilty to obtain the best materials is not
the least Of the hardships Of those who
aim to rival the fashionable mod:stes.
What Nine. Fedora Thinks Of Prices
The discussion Of this millinery subj ,ct
led me in my interview with Nine. Fe-
dora to ask whether it is really true as
the whole Of the Rue de la Paix afirms
that materials have tremendously gone
up in price this year. She assured me
that the increase iwas quite 20 per cent
1T is impossible she said. ''to sell a
hat at the same price as formerly, es.
| pecially as to this extra expense mus,
| a n nf frlr hr
do not work over eight hours a day
whereas in the past TIL y started at il
the morning and labored on till any
hour in the rush season until the models
up all night If needed. The law has put
stop to these abuses. and it lis well II
has, for many of the working girls are
nothing more than growing children
thirteen or fourteen years of age.>
1t is pity that the law could not bt
enforced to put stop to the wearing OF
preposterous chapeaux, but their reg
is fast drawing to a close, doomed by it!
own extravaganza. Did the gods give
some Of the wearers Of the enormous
cloche hats the gift of seeing themselves
as others see them. with top-heavy head
gear and ragged feathers struggling any
how, like a barnyard after a cock fight
that hat would be seen no more. But
then, women do their best to live up t.
their reputation of being without humor
The c'ose-ftting toque is rally the be
loved of the elegante Parisienne-rathel
narrow and set little sdawise on tn
head. a bunch of plumage OF broad wing:
standing away from the left side, givint
it breadth across the face. To W ar thi
toque successfully the hair is pinned OF
to the brim in loose, natural waves, bu
the cluster of curls and the abnorma
poufs in front have been abandoned b.
those in the first flight of fashion a.
vulgar. Black hats with brims of rkch
bright colors In panne or satin are thu
height Of fashion, the edge of ire brin
being bound with black to soften i
against the face. For rough-and-read,
wear with tailored costumes the hat o
felt simply trimmed with a many-loope
bow is very smart, with the bows il