The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-09-29
Fashions From Three Centers
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
(BY EDITH RAYMoND.)

New York, Sept. 2S-The call for the
dress fabrics in neat fancy worsted
and fancy wooden effects is becoming
bringing jobbers into the first-hand
market to supplement their earlier or
ders. At the time of placing business
for the fall and winter many of the
largest buyers were undecided as to how
the colors would sell. 1t is now seen
that high-cOlor fabrics are in strong
demand in broadcloths and all smooth
faced fabrics, and there is a recorder
business coming in on these goods. In
the jobbing market there is an excel
lent business passing, and the store
trade is the largest that has been
booked in many years for September.
All of the departments are enjoying
their share of the trade, and in some,
especially in the dress fabrics and cot
tons, the buying is of unusual proper
tions.
1t is too early as yet to predict the
fashions for the late fall and winter
with anything like certainty. Summer
race and watering place styles in
France set the pace annually for our
own fall and winter modes, but now
and then there is a radical departure
from prevailing fancies in the models
opened in October, and it is these which
are always looked forward to with anx-
iety by persons vitality interested in the
dress question.
The fate of the kimOnO or japanese
sleeve is in the balance, and also of
the surplice and guimpe effects that
have been the rage during the past sea-
son. The fur man, however, seeming
ly confident of the continuance of the
style, has provided many of his smart
est garments with sleeves of this order,
more or less modified to fit the exigen-
cies of pelts and cold weather.
There is, as a fact, less hard and
fast rule about the fashions than there
ever was before, and a variety of modes
at variance with each other are in
vogue. The long shoulder and the
shortened shoulder are both in evil
dence in fashion displays, so far, ana
the fact is that both, with modifica-
lions, will be seen during the coming
months. Women are more and more re-
fusing to adopt a fashion because it is
the vogue without reference to person.
al becOmingness. Given a mOdicum of
taste and some money, any woman can
pick her own fashion out of a hundred
today, so long as she keeps within GER
tain defined bounds. The more original
her costume, if it be in keeping with
her and its purpose, the better. 1t is a
day of great elaboration and extrava-
gance in dress, but there are moderate
fashions for the woman who prefers
them or is driven by economy to choose
them. Cut and finish are more impor-
tant than material and decoration.
1t is something of a surprise to find
stripes, checks and plaids strong again
n 1-
Whether they will have a great run for
the coming season remains to be seen.
The woman who must make the gown
that she chooses now do duty for six
months to come, will be on the safe
side if she selects a plain fabric. The
new striped broadcloths in dull tones
are very fetching. There are also
blocked and checked and striped Pana-
mas in very desirable coIors. Green
and blue and black and a sort of plum
are favOrite combinations in them.
Black is to be very much used for
gowns and suits if the predictions of
the various buyers can be trusted.
There is a big stock Of black silks and
woods provided for this expected craze,
and at the trimming counter there are
no end of trimmings suited to them.
COlored trimmings, it is believed, will
be a great deal used on black founda-
ton fabrics. Nearly all of the black
suits that have as yet arrived in the
stores have a touch of color in the
trimmings and many of them have pale
toned vests braided or embroidered or
both. SOutache is trimming everything
from suiting to gauze.
The new hats that have f1ocked into
certain millinery departments for early
fall wear are enormous in size, and
their bristling trimmings exaggerate
the shapes, which are huge in them
selves. Brims that droop all around
for variety's sake they are not called
mushrOom-and that are long at the
back and short at the front, are still
features of many Of the smartest mod
els. Crowns are, in most cases, high.
Big outspreading feather arrangements
and large silk and velvet bows are
leading trimmings. The feathers are of
all sorts and kinds, with the ostrich
plume first. Ostrich aigrettes are very
much in evidence, and pompon effects
made of barnyard fowl plumage. These
feathers are often put on so that they
totally eclipse the crown from the
front, or are used as a complete cover
for the crown. Given a high crown
and mass of outstanding and spread
ing feathers arranged in this manner.
and the effect is startlingly big
Few flowers are in evidence. The os-
trich plume as long and full as ever
and every whit as costly, is set through
a host of new PAGES by clever millin-
ers. An enormous black hat with the
regulation high crown and wide droop-
ing brim has an original big bow at
the front, and crossing the hat on each
side from front to back is a rich white
plume that sweeps low over the back
Of the hat and is caught at the lower
edge of the brim in such way as to
remind one of a white foaming torrent
Fancy styles in coats and wraps are
not TO abate with the change of sea-
son. The coats for the winter are
every whit as fussy as those worn dur
ing the summer, and even the fur coats
and wraps, which are out in an unusual
range of fashion, are far from severe
in shape and finish. The new suit coats
are taking on many garnishments,
braiding and embroidery trimming not
only the collars, cuffs and vests or
waistcoats, but the body part of the
garments. In little house coats, too,