davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1907-07-28
THE RUSSIAN HEADDRESS.
Kokoschniks Worn Regularly To-day Only
by Peasant Women.

-, ,r- % , rycr uresfa1
The first hat IN the family or d II'i i'-7''''
,.,,o, o,+o, co,,sae something Ike 2 tragedy IN
=. -, eo.,. -a,.s IN q moving scene:
RUSSIAN p'"S " ~ -, -, -. cha
"She has disgraCed me. With n French nat sie
came running toward ne the huzzy. she had no
,t. o wv. ,,,,,,a hairs curse herr
P''' " ' -, -, .ro ,,-r.-
Among women OF lhe PeaN'''' ''' anu "
bourgeoise the national headdress the koho-
scntrl "a still worn The more modern spirits
'N'''''" - ~ ,,. III, ,.f.t .,..
place II soiIe''''eS "'''- "
married woman carefully covers her ha'E' Out even
women Of the merchant class sttI look upon the
- ,,.,.., =, tho ,nre- classes the koko-
nat 'i9 u''N'e''' &,
sChnik is worn oniy "HeH ''9 "oIii1" "'f'-' "
national costume.
Although = looks burdsnsore. ths NohoS,l-''" -
picturesque and readily adaptS ltSelI 20 eVeIy Is
New-York tribune., 1907-07-28

the women into her husbands room and 50 her
1rst greeting was a genufeXion oeioFe her lord
Sometimes the kokoschnik took the form OF a Jew
eIIed crown wrought by masculine hands during
tho long dIaness 10 which the winter forces the
reasants Sometimes IL was a nCnEke veil wound
about the head This veil of bright silk or cotton
&c SIN worn by the peasant women and those Just
,,-e tran, i'm the social scale IN the interior OF
me empire one finds traditions naturally remaining
,,ora reracfcus,v than the outskirts. II
,rCIrd kuov the real Russian woman must 20
,, rba villages and little cities OF the Interior.
Wherever the women are exposed 20 the influence
Of foreigners they give up the customs OF their an
cesto~s as easily as their sisters oS the upper
classes They change the cut of their clothes and
fha stvle Of the headdress inherited from their
mothers and granduotders- over the kokoschnik
they throw a kerchief Of silk or cotton which they
tie under the chin. Then they satisfy themselves
WIN the kerchfef alone. For the most part, the
symbol Gf dtgnIhed humility Is mere ornament for
festival occasions The struggle for Ire IN which
She is engaged forces humility out OF the Rus
Sta, vyoraar's life and takes from her her honor
srIa iraccessb bilitv. She has thrown on the heavy
glory OF her sparkling crown IN order 20 stand
,-lght in the natural beauty OF her SHINING hair.
which 20 her has become the symbol OF rTeadorn-
New-York tribune., 1907-07-28

Parasos and Belts August
Lon
Long Sleeves.

season Hats are heavy enough made in thin
stufs; in heavier materials they would be unen-
durable. 1t must be remembered that large hat
hrims mean additional coiffure. for few women can
dress their hair bscominEIv under these conditions
without the use OF considerable artificial hair
The smart blouses are all made with long sleeves.
and this applies the lace chemisette and lingerie
blouse as well TO the more severe shirtwast.
Inc striped ana dotted haiisteS are charming and
are sometimes used together. A blouse of white
batste with khaki stripes the ruf1es making
the jahot and edEinE the cuff made Of khaki hatiste
with white dots It is little touches of this sort
which make il difficult TO copy a waist, exactly
what the smart chomise places are anxious to
avoid
Il is difficult 10 and cotton or thread gloves that
look al all smart. and well dressed women gen
orally avoid them. Coored suede gloves tan and
gray nave been popular up to now, but they Will
be a little warm for practical in August. a
nice thread glove has the wrist Of English embroId-
cry. II is dainty and at the time the embrojd-
cry answers 5 the cuff 10 the blouse.
The elaborate midsummer gowns like those OF
the spring lay great stress on the wrap which is
often a part Of the costume. There a lot of
black silk garments worn, long. either the lines
Of redingote casaQue, very much open in front
TO show the bodice beneath and the front of the
dress skirt one of the prettest Of black garments
is with a of black and white striped gauze.
The trimming on the bottom Of the skirt consists
Of two-inch band Of blue mousseline de sole.
framed in bands Of the gaUze cut on the
straight thread. The redingOta IS Of black silk
voile the upper part II like fichu. there
are no sleeves and the sides held together at
the waist by two buttoned straps. There is
sash ends The skirts of the redingote are rounded
and very long behind.
There was pretty redingote at Pre- Cata-
Ian at time the other afternoon. The ma
terial was a heavy blue tussOr. and there
collar Of Irish lace. embroidered In jet and soft
belt Of black silk with smart bow and buckle
behind. The skirts Of the garment were slashed-
in fact. they consisted Of TWO wide sash pieces
behind and two in front, and the top very
full. with big pleats making the sleeves. This
belted garment is distinct novelty. The gown
worn with lovely II of soft gray
tussor and fet. with a lot Of self-embrodery. The
hat was a mass OF fluffy gray and white
feathers lightweight black straw. There
gray suede gloves and gray, white embroidered
japanese parasol.
The fiat japanese umbrellas novelty this
season: the size of the hats makes them neces-
sar for il is impossible TO bring the ordinary
brella near the face. The plain green silk
brella. which has been the classic accompaniment
beach frocks. is stil used. but the purple para
sol IS rather chic. For the afternoon there
the exquisite tule and mousseline affairs,
lace incrusted. hand painted and sometimes braid
ed and with a touch of black.
New-York tribune., 1907-07-28
saF1 1vS9
SS Sa1
NEANA,, EINCSS
02~SS%SN

In his message 10 the International Congress Of
Red cross societies which took place recently IN
London Queen Alexandra. who is president of tina
British Red cross. said: y sure that the dele
gates will rejoice with 20 know that there stiu
lives among rs the pioneer OF The hTs- Red Cross
movement Miss Florence NiShtinsale. U10ss he
roic efforts on behalf Of sun ring humanity will
Do. recognized by al ages 50 long as tie world
shall last
English housekeere~s are in a panic over the new
law which corueIs employers 20 compensate Their
servants for any accident met with IN the cou-ss
of the employment even though entirely by the
servants own fault. Even The CharUCC1aC. Who
comes IN for few hours weekly. -an claim COM
rensa-ion Injuries herself and this co-pe1sa-
tl-n y for fatal intIrv may mean providing for
the servants dependent relatives
The children of the Czar of Russia are always
dressed with extreme simplicity. says one who
knows something about the dornes-i, life O: ire
Pomanoxs The little grand duchessas wear plain
collars and plain black SILK bows risd n an Eng
lieh navy knot Their hats are shady white Stravs.
trimmed with black ribbons and fastened or with
sIss.ira Their shoes ara Of stout black leather
with very soft uppe-s and sensible heals and
thev wear black stockings cs cashmere. VIII,
no openwork frtPpery. On Sundays and holi-
DAYS little more elaboration is permitted. b,It
even then the little RoUaroas 90 not present
nearly fine an appearance as many American
children.
New-York tribune., 1907-07-28

The chest is first made to expand thus enials e,
It's cavity and causing the air TO De sucheu ~,
lust as il is in pair of bellows Wheh openeu 60 GO
then II Is made contract and the ar - to 80
out the patient lying his back meantime wiz
shoulders slightly elevated but what Is most I'M
nortant before beginning the work the up OF .tie
toneue must be drawn forward ana OUT o. tIo
mouth and so held by a bystander, WIN d piecS
F 49,, 10th otherwise il will fall back into the
throat and prevent respiration II alone SiiP 80 -
the tongue and under the chin an ordinary ruooeI
band.
Now for the movements -, =,
..KneeI behind the patients head; grasp MIN py
the forearrns half way between the eipo" IL IL
the wrists. and draw his arms UP owe - -
ra her quickly but steadily untlI MS i'''49 - -
the ground behind his head Hold t"eiH 'iiei -, -
tvro seconds This motion draws the RIOS up 'l1'
expanding the chest and air ruShes IN CoI''i'7'S
dIne the lungs In the two seconds aIioWeu
Now reverse the mOVement--Carfy t'Ie a.
hack until they rest against the SIDES ot tle -, -,
the forearms little top, pressing the i"It M.
ern,Iv downward and inward against the chest fof
one second This pressure depresses the r!os' con
tracts the chest and forces the air out 1(epe1
these movements alternately, regularly anu ps.
sistentlv at-the rate OF sixteen tlrleS q INN
each until some effort is made by the p,l'lsII -
breathe The effort may only be gasp ""t'
a hit to soc IL he will breathe again, ana II NOT
take up the movements once more. but eIdeiNV.
10 time them by his efforts to breathe ana resort
70 hartshorn dashes of cold water and SlappnS-
Meantime hot applications should be Kept dio''S
the body. matt, -
TN the successful performance OF artlhcl.l res
nratIon III. air must be heard entering and leaving
the chest II II is heard. either there Is some
foreign substance in the throat or the tongue mas
al
New-York tribune., 1907-07-28

Paris, July is.
At tie present moment the most interesting
thing TO record about fashions IS the variety
and Importance Of small accessories like belts
parasoIs. gloves and other chic additions TO
the wardrobe. The high waists and the breteIIe
gowns have been so prevalent of late as TO have
thrown belts a little in the shade, hut, now that
waists are resurlng more conventional line some
novelties for midsummer are necessary. a pretty
idea is a matching" belt and parasol which may
bs carried out IN Powered silks braided tote OF in
any material The new kid belts are most cunning
y striped with color 10 give q long. slender
waist for the lower stripes are broad. growing to
e hair lire at the top. SILK parasols match the
col0rs and stripes IN the kid.
Hats and parasols are often matched IN a plain
color or tn embroidered or howered silk. Braided
belts OF silk toile have their complement in the
parasol. Another pretty fancy, perhaps more easy
10 accomplish. IS 10 have a breast bouquet to
match the flowers on the hat Fashions in artih-
cal flowers seem 10 change rapidly; one month It
IS roses and the next lilies or huge, Impossible
flowers. Just now there is an interest in all field
flowers. large yellow and white daisies tiger lilies
end sort Of Wild morning glory that covers all
the hedges IN France.
Midsummer millinery IS If anything. TO be more
extravagant than that worn now. The hats that
earlier. TO mention authority. has ready for
cloche shape and loaded with plumes rather than
flowers. Many have big chiffon wells thrown over
IleInr Dut IN e IaSIlOn not USED last year. The
Vel, which is broad enough 70 cover the face in
front and the hair behind and long enough to reach
below the knees when united, is just thrown over
the hat, and perhaps attached to each side of the
brim with tewelled pins. II is then drawn about
the face. hood fashion. and tied The front part
may be thrown back over the hat brim or easily
draped Another Veil IS circular IN shape very easy
6rape in graceful folds A perfect hat for motor
sng is round turban OF straw so light II can hard
& be felt. This IS draped with elephant gray
chiffon. and a big veil IS thrown over it in the
Snanuer described.
The lingerie hats smart and rather severe,
certainly less picturesque and babyish than those
EoTn last year. In white linen they have
straight broad sailor brims and trimmed with
white linen Quills and punches Of chiffon more
Gressy model in blue p!que has large aring brim
somewhat the Gainsborough lines. with the
trimming nassed in front The garniture consists
OF q scarf Of pale blue batiste, edged with small
balls Of irish lace and blue linen quills
/ The modistes cay that the hats Of next winter
will be smaller in size than those worn now
but It is more reasonable 10 suppose that the ex-
lRggerated br4Ln Will disappear after the Trouvillc
New-York tribune., 1907-07-28

Acarry baggage for the French officers. Her mother
twas Fastening hide her savings Ia a hole which
tshe had dug behind the farmhouse, when She saw "
Napoleon stop and proceed TO install himself few
snetres from her hoard. She afraid, and ran
20 remove IT Napoleon perceivinE her. sent one
tOf his aids TO inquire II she III and 10 offer
her glass Of cordial Learning that she ;he
5nistress Of the farmhouse the Emperor IN
,fercsted, and, seeing the little Anne Josephine
weep. he patted her checks and told the mother
that there going to be a battle and she had
better seek place Of safety. The mother Of the
centena rjaE told Napoleon that her
dragon. and tie Emperor answer red that he was a
brave fellow and OF those VINO had suffered
most u. retreat from Russia.
Yes says Nine. Rubly, Il the Emperor
Napoleon. lie was a ittle man. win a big nose"
Of the French she says:
The were good people. but the Prassians what
men During our absence they TWO heifers and
all poultry"
NM. Ruhay lives with Acr only son. who IS
segentE--foGr years Old. and French English and
German travellers 10 Of their way visit her.
New-York tribune., 1907-07-28
THE TRIBUNE PATTERN.

Such pretty llttlo dress this one commends Itself
and Is quite certan % its demand. II is
charmingy youthful effect Is dainty ana altogether 70
be desired euinently simple involving little
the making and being exceptionally well adapted
illustrated, Il is made Of ring dotted
dirny with tine collar of plain white lawn trimmed with
embroidery but simple IS. - allows Of varia
Jons and is adapted 70 many materials. The collar can
material. Il llaed il be omitted
altogether palmer and simpler froch. while.
again the NECK be made with the little square
high Ised Alao there choice Of the elbow or
long sleeves. that really the model provides
dreF=v l-tte frock and plain All materials
that arc A-ra Ly Nlue ELrLs are aLpromIate.
New-York tribune., 1907-07-28
RENEFIT % EAsT SIDE CLINIC.

Under the auspices of Mrs }. Ella Rood. n
bridge whist and eucl.rc will be i,igen FOR the
Deneht Of the East Size Clinic fcr children. Or.
Adelaide WellerEtc.l, president IL the Coleman
House, A6pury Park. =. J.. tomorrow evening, IL
SO O'Clock Mrs. Kood VIII be assisted by a com
nhttee composed OF the following women: Mrs.
Miss Madeline Pierson Mrs NJ Sexton, Miss Mary
New-York tribune., 1907-07-28

Jordan Baker. Miss II Smith, Mrs Phillip Dillon.
Mrs William Buckley and Nine Davis. The tick
cts 81 each and be obtained from any
member OF the committee. Handsome prizes will
be awarded TO the highest scorer.
The East Side Clinic for Children. having been
chartered licensed by the State Board Of Chari-
ties. provides medical ana surgical treatment and
dispenses drugs to sick children. DR.. Walersten Is
also president Of the Rubinsten club and will
be present tomorrow evening at the Coleman
House as a guest Of Mrs Rood
New-York tribune., 1907-07-28

quantity required the medium size
eight is "a yards ~ 3S yards b Pa yards
~ inches wdc'with g 80 inches wide
lar. yards Of banding yards edging
iiEstrated The paltern-No 5I29-ts cut IN sizes for
girls Of f31T six. eight and yoars old.
The pattern viii be any address receipt OF
t!vs pattern number age distinctly.
Address Pattern Department, New York Tribune in
a hurry pattern send stamp and
Will mali by letter postage IN sealed envelope.
New-York tribune., 1907-07-28
WOMAN WHO SAW NAPOLEON.
Mime. Rubay's 1O2d Anniversary To Be Cele-
brated Tomorrow at Ligny.

( Thed02d birthday Of Nine Anne Josephine Rub. y
t.Eiu be celebrated al Ligny France. tomorrow.
knfEne. Rubay and spoke 10 the Emperor Ma
Es2oleon and loves tell about it. She was ten
lyears old IN June. 1916, when Napo:eon established
ths headquarters IN the meadow behind the farm
mouse where she Lived, and which still stands, its
great thatched roof revealing its antiquity. On
Ethe day OF the battle Of L4gay her father was
New-York tribune., 1907-07-28

The following are some Of the rules by which the
summer session pupils will work when they get as
far along as their life saving corps In these days
OF athng they may be useful TO other people, and
the rules for artificial respiration may be applied
equally for other forms of suffocation. such
from smoke charcoal Illuminating gas. In all
these cases the effect is the result of the sama
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1907-04-23
MINNESOTA RAILROADS.
Sundberg Investigating Committee
Finds Much Uater.

81. Paul. April 22-Railroad property in Mime
sofa is valued S2I5.0c0 600 by the Sundberg in
vestigating COMMITTEES. which made its report
20 the Minnesota State Senate to-day. This Is
approximately $1,000 n mile. The property Is
capitalized nj about SiO0O00OO0. averaging $4,000 a
mile The net earnings according to the commit
tees findings. averaged s. 900 mile last year
or IS per cent the committees valuation
The committee, which consists OF Senators Sund-
berg. eastman, Canestorp Nelson and Sageng
recommends that "a committee or commission OF
three be empowered TO investigate generally into
the capitalization OF the railroads OF Minnesota and
tho relation the stocks and bonds bear to the value
thereof, and the enactment OF such appropriate
legislation the conditions disclosed demand"
The report says that 10 arrive at tha cost Of
reproducing and equipping tho different lines in
their present condition the committee considered:
First the original cost of construction: second.
ment added since; third. the and character OF
the lines recently built: fourth, the expense Of
NTH. the stocks and bonds and the value and
thereof sixth the geography Of the line and the
Judgment displayed in its location.
large part OF the report is devoted to a review
of the Chicago Great Western. This road. IL says.
was built by a. b. Stickney who raised the
funds by acquiring, organizing reorganizng and
,iarrimanizing divers and sundry corporations OF
Minnesota, Iowa and Illinois,
The capital stock and funded debt of the road IS
$li366S a mile and the committee figures Its value
So 900 a mile In it's latest report the Chicago
Great Western Company certified that line and
equipment cost $9Soll a mile and in detail of its
stattineht tefs re-, is o, an Item purchase or CON
100000 for the whole line.
In 1891 there reported for purchase Of con-
Structed road, S6.3l3lSl 81 IL was then SIS miles
long.
Fifteen years later" says the committee. this
the whole line had shrunk sixty miles in length.
1t has been watered too much"
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1907-04-23
CHICAGO TRACTION PLAN.
Details of agreement Betz0een Com
mittee and Holders of Stock.

The agreement between the Chicago Union Trac-
ton Company committee and such holders Of pre-
ferred and common stock of that company
as may become parties to 1t by depositing
their certificates of stock with the Central
Trust Company OF this city, was issued yester-
day. The agreement. which is dated April o. 1907
states that the Chicago Union Traction Company
is the lessee of the railways OF the Northwest
says that the total debts for which these three
in bonded Indebtedness S26 100000 and in floating
GT6{s f ~ an and that that since april o. 1909 the
OF receivers appointed by the United States Circuit
obtained against them It reviews the traction
situation in Chicago from the time of the receiver
by the United States Supreme Court that the rights
many of the streets now occupied by their tracks
nave expired or are subject to termination by the
1t then refers to the ordinance passed Febru-
ary II ana approved by the vote of the people OF
chicago at the MayOralty election there on April
%nIeh provides for yestiBg in new corporation.
rights as regards CONSTRUCTION. maintenance and
operation heretofore enjoyed by the Chicago Trac-
the terms OF the ordinance 80 per cent of the net
receipts of the operation OF the railways to
be paid to the city of Chicago, and that IL is made
fi2nditioP precedent to the right OF the Chicago
80 titrI oe 80 t nc ~ IND tlaI
Union Traction Company shall be deposited under
an agreement at prior to the time of such
The stockholders are asked to deposit their Union
Traction stock with the Central Trust Company.
assigning Il to the committee, so that the latter
may be vested with the legal title to all shares
that the committee shall have the power to pre-
pare plan for the reorganization OF the Chicago
Union Traction Company alone in conjunction
with any other corporation. TO concur in and
accept any plan prepared pursuant 10 the provi-
sions Of the ordinance referred to- By the terms
Of the agreement the deposit of stock is irrevocable
In the ordinance is accepted and the stock
deposited is subject also To the terms OF any plan
Of reorganization that may be formed and approved
by tho COMMITTEES.
The committee consists of J. y. Wallace, John
W castles. Robert ~ galloway. II. s. Holins.
James JOurdan and Alfred Skitt.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1907-04-23
SUIT TO OPEN COPPER BOOKS HEARD.
Thomas NJ. HOdgens Thinks His Investment
in Heinze Company Unsafe.

Argument was begun In Newark yesterday before
Justice Fort, in the Supreme Court in the legal
fight If Thomas NJ. Hodgcns of Butte Mont
against the United Copper Company OF Montana
Of which f. Augustus Heinze is the head rule
TO show cause why the books OF the company
should not be opened for inspection 10 HodEons
returned yesterday Argument for each side was
heard, and an adjournment taken for the day
Thomas J. Walsh. of Helena, appeared for Mir
Hodgens and said his client feared for the safety
Of nis investment. Mr.. Walsh said that while the
aggregate receipts. plus the capital. of the com
panY since 1906 could not have exceeded 81 HO 0O
dividends had been paid out amounting to almost
$3,500o00. He contended that as his client was
seeking the books Of the company to verify the
statements Of the officials. IT was proper that no
should them.
Walsh's argument met by Richard Y Linda
bury, Of Newark, counsel for the corporation, who
lened the allegations as to the company finances.
He said the concern strong
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1907-04-23
INTEREST IN SUNSHINE

THE Ocala CF1a) Daily Banner" in its issue OF
April II gives an account OF the origin or the
Tribune Sunshine Society and the work done for
consumptives through the establishment by 7. 5. s.
members Of the Narcoossie (Fla) Sunshine Home
and sanatorium for people OF LIMITED means. The
T S. s. was instrumental in raising the principal
part of the money thus far expended in buying and
eoupping the home, and the officers are glad to
note that the people of Florida recognize the i'm
portance Of the work begun and the actual neces-
sity for such an institution. 1t is learned from
Mrs 7. r. Mclean, the state president, that Dr.
Smith, T. S. s. member at !Ieesburg, and MT.
Withers whose wife is a member of the Conant
branch are both members Of the Florida Begis-
lature, now in session. and they have signihed
their willingness TO assist whatever legislation is
for the best interests of the Home A letter from
CSoyernor Broward TO DR. Ennis commends the
work and he will favor action that Will IN
crease it's scope and usefulness.
New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1907-04-23
De LANcEv SCHOOL EXHIBIT.

Tho De Lancey School for Girls which removed
AZ the beginning OF the season from No n West
sth street 10 No. S0l West 9Sth street. has iust
been holding its first exhibition OF work IN the new
building The walls OF the class ana reception
tooins as wen as the stairways. were covered with
the regular class work OF the pupils bepinn,nq, MFR
the spelling ana language lessons OF the little chill
dren. up 70 the art studies, Latin exercises and
geometry % the older Eyirls Mans Of All Kinds
from those c0lOred 10 show the v,orsCs
q tie United States 20 those illustrating the Wars
Il ne Roses and the campaigns OF Hannibal ran
al through inc exhibits and so did the sDeilinr
exercises as that subject IS not allowed 70 shift
Tor itself IN this school ~ 9"'A'
There was large attendance OF parents ana
friends OF the pupils, and the new bufdino 1Tae sS
much ADMIRED as the exhibit. as Il has Windows
on az SIDES except the north ana sunlight in every