Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-01-26
latitude of the personal element in dress
than even the winter modes have exploited.

latitude of the personal element in dress
than even the winter modes have exploited.
80
1t IL yet too early to say whether short
sleeves will continue In our next seasons
melange. but II the present is forerunner
of the future they will surely flourish to the
extinction Of the long manche. Still, 1t
would be just like Dame Fashion. having
made us freeze almost to death in short
sleeves all winter, to smother US in long
ones during the dog days.
If your dressmaker Is an artist 1t would
be safe to purchase gown for the early
spring in one of the attractive new ma
terials and have 1t made with an empire
skirt. This effect is arrived at by an en-
pire cut starting from the bust and sweep
ing down to the long pointed train, without
darts or seams except in the back and GEN.
ter front. 1t takes all the skill of a clever
couturiere to get this skirt to hang just
right from bust to hem. for IL there Is a
wrinkle at the sides draw over the
stomach it proclaims the amateur touch at
once. The under blouse worn with the en-
pire skirt is generally of lace or net and a
short square bolero jacket just reaches to
the top of the jupe.
For those who have a big bank account
there are lovely ornaments In the noyeau
art style, which is such rage here in Paris
this winter. The latest and most correct
things are the pendant and the hair orna-
ment-the latter in the form Of large
comb or a fiat band to circle the forehead
in enamels of the varied coors of the pea
cocks tail Indeed the favorite design Is a
peacock standing with tail erect, the body
a mass of emerald sparks and the pendant
attached to a chain of enamel set with un-
cut emeralds. Egyptian designs in dark
blue and somber green enamels are also
foS chi nd q mo-
nary necklaces and tiaras are laid aside, or
at least are not in first favor.
=
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Perhaps the smartest fashion wrinkle Of
the moment is the sleeveless coat. made to
display the beauty of the blouse sleeve. The
most effective models are of heavy lace
without adornment other than a draped
hood. which hangs almost to the waist and
is finished with thick silk tassel- The
coat is simply tied in front with bows Of
velvet and chiffon to match the frock with
which 1t is worn. / have this winter seen
some remarkably effective theater coats ar
ranged with an immense lace hood fash
toned from genuine Spanish mantilla OF
the antique order. ApropOs of Spanish
mantillas. 1t may be well to state that they
are never worn in Spain except on fete
days and to bull fights. When people who
do not know Spain we'll say that the man
are using the word mantilla incorrectly.
In the south of Spain almost every woman
and girl wears the "velo in the morning,
and very often in the afternoon also. The
"velo' is much smaller than the mantilla
and Is simply thrown over the head and
caught in at the back of the neck with
fancy pin. On the other hand, the mantilla
Is as difficult to arrange as the powdered
headdress of olden time. 1t is said with a
good deal of truth that an Andalusian CO.
Quette requires a couple of hours for the
correct arrangement of her mantilla for
bull fight. Before this wonderful piece OF
lace is posed on the head comb from ten
to twelve inches high has to be called into
use, and with this a veritable flower gar
den.
In connection with colffure styles. 1 told
you some time ago that the smart women
of Paris had determined to make artificial
fluctuations questionable. They have de-
cided that luXuriant hair which has been
rendered soft and. glossy as spun silk Is
more distinguished and attractive ar
ranged simply than when waved or
curled. 1t must be granted that this sim
plicty" is not possible to the many. The
Infanta Eulalia was seen at the opera the
other night with her beautiful hair dressed
without waves. 1t was softly drawn up to
the top of her head and arranged in a cluS
ter of Greek curls In front the hair droop-
ed slightly over the forehead and a classic
diadem of diamonds and pearls was pushed
we'll forward.
Before I send this letter over the water I
must tell you about a hat worn by pretty
young blonde at the Odeon the other night.
She was occupying the center of box,
where a large chapeau is positively neces-
sary OF electric blue tulle. this creation
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