The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-09-29
LONDON FASHIONS.
(BY MAY DAwsoN.)

autumn. Sometimes the two materials
agree to differ and remain apart,
state of affairs applauded by at least
one great mOdiste. who cannot endure
two details of attire so alien in juxta-
position. But this year there is evil
dent amiability between peltry and
lace. One coat made for the evening,
of richest sable, has revers Of white
crochet, overlaid with big applique
flowers made of chiffon and silk in am
her and pink shades, with golden sta
mems in the center Of each blossom.
The sleeves are Of the very modish
bats wing shape, lined with chiffon
ruffles.
There will be a renewed and very
pronounced appreciation for ermine as
q trimming in bands and rouleaux, as
well as for complete capes and coats.
Fair, exceedingly, is a long coat of
pure white ribbed silk with a border
ten inches in depth Of ermine, an equal
1y heavy edging on the cross-Over
front, and upon the wide mouths of
the sleeves a like adOrnment All the
buttons used are covered with ermine.
Another ermine vehement is a cape
corded across from shoulder to shout
Ger with heavy black silk ropes end
ing in huge ornaments and big tasseis.
A very rich quality of satin viii be
aOund, in many noteworthy instances,
NltltdLCluS the ttdul9 u lut- All III
stance shown the other day was that
of a sealsI1in coat with double revers.
one set Of fur. the other of satin, and
an intermingling of the two upon the
sleeves; and another was an ermine
stole made in stripes separated by
satin embroidered with grapes and
vine leaves in shades of green and
purple.
j A most important cult lust now is
that of the tailOr-made coat, a coat
EIILS is known by the sign manual of
excessive neatness and simplicity of
line that it depicts. Let it be made Of
black-faced cloth if utility and the
height of fashion are your two main
requisites. a very pretty period model
TO choose is that of Louis XIII, which
permits the introduction of a smart
dimity flowers upon II. The waistcoat
does not begin its career until a few
inches above the waist line, and ends
1t several inches below. Up above
there is very evident a white lawn
chemisette with a grandfather frill
down the center, gOffeTed and edges
with Valenciennes lace. Another coat,
this time quite a short one, with
semi-fitting back, is made of Lincoln
green cloth; it is an extra little wrap
10 be worn over any dress, and looks
particularly we'll with a toilette of
TOile de JOuy or one carried out in
easement cloth. fabric that has been
In moderate but well-deserved demand
during the summer months.
One of the most popular fancies of
the moment is the long loose redin-
cote of white or cOlored linens, heavily
embroidered in raised designs or inlet
with handsome filet lace insertions
These take the form of a very long
wrap, with ample sleeves-they are
sometimes drawn into the waist at the
back by means Of a ribbon belt. but
are always loose and flowing in the
front. So elegant and chic are these
coats that they give an air of distinc-
ton TO the simplest of frocks. For the
early AUTUMN these will be seen in
white cloth.
For the latest and most chic tailor
mades the coarse linen in butcher blue
Is the most in favor, and in chestnut
brown and iron gray these gowns are
most distinguished. More noticeable
than ever is the white linen shirt waist.
worn with these gowns, and the intro
duction Of the black tie, either in the
form Of a sailors knot or a neat little
bow under the white linen collar. One
Of the novelties in tailor gowns is in
the new corah silk. This is seen in
every shade. but the delicate tones of
nile green and heliOtrOpe are among
the prettiest. The black tie is also
Been with these, and often the fat
folds on the skirt are piped with black
DR. even stitched several times with
black at each side. These corah silks
Or even stitched several times with
serge or cloth slIirts-in sac shape. and
fastened across the left side single
breasted with large flagree silver but
tons that hang like acorns.
Blue serge is most popular trimmed
with Oriental embroideries or with
black braid, in fancy designs, over
bands of white cloth. SOutache braid
lngs are still in favor, especially in
white and pale blue cloth and serge
tailor gowns-the straight, little sac
coat being almost covered with ara
besque designs in the same color SOU
tache. White or cream lace blouses
are generally worn with these serge
frocks and give them a very chic fin
lsh.
Sleeves are gradually becoming long
- and longer. and I should not be at
al surprised TO see by the end of the
autumn the entire disappearance of the
ubiquitous short sleeve.
Although hats are still conspicuous
~ large and the draped mousseline de
BOie wells more in vogue than before
with the end Of the summer season
there is little doubt but that the
lOque Will again have a success. The
LllttA uillSIcllCC 10 De noted IN the
probable millinery effects is the widen
Ing at the sides of the large cloche and
the consequent diminution of the unbe-
coming back movement which has
been so prevalent. Masses of feathers
On black hats and green bords promise
10 be the favorite trimmings
Velvet tailOT-mades also are predict
20 for the autumn and winter in the
Did Rembrandt and Vandylxe colorings
and picture hats in velvet with droon-
ing feathers will accompany these
Rressy tailor costumes. Another inno-
Vation which is having very great sue
besS with lovers of the tailor-rnade Is
the novel collar which replaces the
linen collar. This is made of silk ne
lersham. of any width preferred, and
consists of a straight band of this
found the throat, fastened by fancy
pins. 1t requires no supports, keeps
It's position, and is not so harsh as a
stiff collar, and is most comfortable
and becoming.
In Paris one hears interesting ru-
hlOrs Of the coming Greek revival. Of
Greek costumes and dTaperies we have
Nod many during the