The independent., 1907-03-14
Fashions
Spring Costume Models Developed
From Present Modes-Frenchy
Bodices Topping Severely Tailored
Skirts.

Skirts.
New York Post: 1t is definitely
settled now that another period OF
transitory modes is before us with the
same wavering between Directoire,
Princesse, and Empire effects that has
characterized the fashions of the past
two seasons, and when the gladstone
Easter brings forth it's customary
quota of new spring frocks" the dis
play is reasonably sure to comprise
these styles in about equal ratio.
This being the case it naturally fol-
lows that materials of soft, pllable
texture, such as voiles, silks, cash
meres, etc, will take precedence over
all others, although flannels, broad
cloths, mohairs, and even suitlnss,
have been reduced to minimum
weight, and will lend themselves very
adaptably to this accepted order OF
things.
fancy weaves is being developed into
the most fetching spring suits, trimmed
with cloth and braid, taffeta silk, or
passementeries Also it is proving
most desirable fabric for separate
skirts, which are assuming something
of their original vogue. White and
Iight-colored serges; louisine, plain,
checked, and striped; pongees, ana
especially the natural color; foulards,
messalines, and nearly all the variety
of printed silks and brocades are on
the spring list. The two-tone checks,
distinguished from their kind OF last
year by the combination of very hght
and very dark colorings, will continue
in the race along with the irrepressible
shepherd check, while nearly all Of the
light weight materials will be shown
up in new designs and popular color
ings.
Just another word about serge,
which for many years has held only
an inferior place in public favor. rms
year will see it in all the wonderfui
new shades, and all of the soft pastei
tints, and it will be developed as 1t has
already in costumes for the Southland,
in smart morning and outing suits.
Oftener than not it will be self
trimmed with strapnings, stiched
bands reinforced with soutache hraids
and fancy buttons One such suit that
is undoubtedly working havoc at Palm
Beach was of silver blue serge. The
short skirt was very plain and smooth,
fitting around the hips, faring from
lust below in inturned, double box
plaits. There was a deep hem around
the bottom, with three rows of ma
chine stitching, and two little trian-
guIar-shaped pieces at each of the
plaits at the top of the hem, and on
each point a pearl button Of the ex-
act cloth shade With this there was
a jaunty little coat, suggesting an
Empire effect, in the back, but very
cIose-fitting in front, the seams
stitched on either side. Two revers,
one of the serge and the other OF
taffetta. and a taffetta collar, and two
groups Of two of the etriangular-shaped
strappings like those on the skirt, I'm
ished in a similar manner with the
buttons, gave a smart tailored nnlsn
to the entire costume, which was Won
derfully typical of the suits we are to
don when the spring time comes
along.
One of the smartest and most pic
turesuue features OF the styles nosF be-
ing developed are the little coats, or
rather coat bodices, fashioned Of silk,
usually to be worn with cloth skirts.
Invariably they match this cloth and
skirt to perfection and they are mod
eIied on Directoire lines, although
much leeway is allowed in the way of
modification To illustrate, broad
cloth skirt, of the lightest possible
weight, is made with smooth fitting
hips again, the seams made slot and
stitched to the hips, where triple
plat is set in. but pressed very fiat,
possibly held so from underneath, and
the whole stitched once about an inch
from the bottom. The coat-bodice Is
of the precise cloth shade, a faint.
BLUSH gray that is quite indescribable,
but comes under the name OF ''yapor
gray" There are two inehwide plaits
or folds laid at the shoulders and
caught in again at the waist line,
while the rest of the front is merely
full enough to preserve IL from draw
ing. At the waist line the silk, folds
and all. is cut away in blazer fashion.
atted nicely. but not too tightly
around the hips and extending Ia a
roint at the back which is all laid In
folds. There Ii no belt. but the plalts
and the fullness In simply caught In
a h.. A.mxk