The daily morning journal and courier., 1907-11-12
|NjVELIY IN TIE | LATEST FASHION The Increasing Popularity of the One-Piece Costume. CLOTH GOWNS LEAD The Prevalent Fancy For
 Applied Decorations
 Apparent.

4NOlWllIlSldllQlllS lllC llSL LllNb nv city" is writ large and plain upon the fashions of this season almost with out exception, each one is distinctly | traceable to d mode which had it's origin at some more or less remote ] date. None of the fashions can be said to be of any one period. Very | few models there are now that do not | embody at least from one to half dozen styles, and yet there never was time in the history of sartorial af- fairs when costumes were more dis tinctive or more reflective of the per- sonality of the wearer; rather, per haps, one should say distinctive be- cause the personality of the wearer I never counted to a greater degree.
 Although the shops are fairly ablaze | with beautiful glistening silks, satins, plushes, and velvets, the cloth gown is unquestionably in the lead, and | bids fair to continue So indefinitely. | The staple shades are all to be seen | even In the exclusive models, but ! there are such beautifur shadings in | each of them that when placed to- gether 1t must be admitted they are quite r-shadowed, From the long list of tints, shades, and tones there are some eight or tentthat rank fore most because of their very general becomingness above the more pro nounced shades Vaupe, khaki, fuschia, rosewood, topaz, chartreuse, tomato, Havana brown, and the new rose and new purple, or Vatican pur-
 pie, as it is called, all are q positive
 delight to the eye, ana do not usually | detract from what beauty of com
 plexion the wearer may happen to be
 possessed of Then the combination of colors continues to cnarm and to
 lend it's mark of individuality to cos tunes This combination once was
 deemed exclusively French, but the
 American dressmaker has made a
 study of the color scheme and evolved Unto an artist herself in that direction
 Last year, and for year or two Ibefore that, there were scarcely more lthan the two skirt models, the long and the short, and each in it's sphere
 had pretty much the same appearance , wherever 1t was seen. Now the long l fskirt is developed fin score or more } of designs, each distinctly different { from the other, and the short skirt is t not far behind in the varieties of It's 5 cut.
 . One of the new models shows a cir cular- -hounced skirt, which means that the top portion is cut precisely on the lines of the ordinary circular, the , front and back extending to the floor
 Commencing at each side of these front pieces, which really form panels z there are two sections applied in a q seam which joins them to the panel , These sections, two iis number, are . curved at the top where they join the . circular portion of the skirt. This
 model Is especially adaptable to firm Nl ly woven cloths, as broadclotis and
 velvets, whose lustre requires no dec oration, for 1t is seldom trimmed un. less by cording of the seams. An a other skirt which depends for its dec ! orative effect upon the quality of thu
 material is circular, pure and sim
 pie. When spread out, it forms a per
 feet circle The fullness around tht
 hips is brought into six plaits, whicl < naturally increase In width from th' ' waist line. These plaits are stitched
 not at the edge, but close to the fold ' then pressed in line down the skir Y as the stitching extends only just ove s the hips.
 ,. This model, like the other, is sel 'l dom trimmed, or, at best, only witl
 an applied banding near the foot, Il o contradistlnctions to this skirt ar e those made very full at the waist, tn II fulness brought into shape in variou y ways, by plaits, tucks, strappings an ' bandings, shirring,. shocking, an II what is newest of all, the stitche
 tucks ad plaits. The quality of tn
 material used in the construction o
 the skirt, of course, very largely mus
 determine which of these methods 'S most favorable, the strappings, band
 lings, and plaits being better adapte
 to heavy fabrics, and the shocking Z. shirring, etc, more appropriate flo ~ the thinner ones, or, at least, thos
 that are more pliable. A note mus Y be made right here however of tn y fact that shocking is greatly favored 'l and is not by any means confined s thin cloths, as 1t used to be. Smock 1i ing, like any hand-work, to be al 'l tractive must be exquisitely done, an Is then it certainly is a charming way le confining fulness. The clever hand ID workers have evolved many odd de se signs some of them intricate and CT Lo tirely unlike the conventional desig
 | lac lv,f. Iyr1
 as shocking. One unique arrangemer
 in which the new plaits and smockin
 were combined to form a hip yoke e Us feet had the skirt cut in a circle; pa
 of the fitness at the top was the K brought into plaits in such mannt US that they formed triangles meeting ne the base, thus making continuol ht line just below the hips The fulne' as left was smocked to fill the space b' or tween the triangles. Instead at thread, the shocking was done wit -t- chenille cord, so that at equal inte e. vals tiny chenille dots showed up. TT IS bottom of this skirt, too, was move
 There was a six-inch band of hea7
 satin embroideder in chenille ar
 above it three two-inch tucks inte = =. sected with triangles of plain mat ed rial.
 he There is a great fancy for the tai e. ored and semi-tailored skirts, evt ne where the material is silk or veilin he and for the broadcloths and oth he smooth fabrics thls tahey runs to a piled decorations, such as tabs ed velvet, silk, or braid, or self materl