Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-03-24
JEWELRY FOR 1907.
Caliber Cutting-Semi-P Precious Stones
Carved Gold.

From the jewelers. Circular
Last year Louis XVI and Marie Antoin-
cite styles prevailed. and although these
are now seen, it Is the empire the art
nouveau and the Greek elements that have
recently been the most pronounced designs
In jewelry.
They are seen in the best atoms OF
Paris, for which at present the caliber
stones are required. Paris is more favor
able to the caliber diamonds than is Amer
lea. but their vogue is increasing here.
The sale of bracelets has been tremen-
dous. There have been linked bracelets and
bangles, simple gold engraved ones and
those deliberately set with jewels, oriental
effects, caliber jewel designs and large sim
gle settings of semi-precious stones. Jade
and coral have been specially popular,
while the green finish of gold as well the
rose has been well received.
The question of whether bracelets will
continue in fashion is that cannot be
answered with absolute certainty. The first
movement toward their introduction began
five years ago, but it did not receive a
hearty Endorsement until short sleeves be-
came the vogue. Then bracelets jumped
into universal favor. and they have contin-
ued their popularity.
Next to bracelets come necklaces, which
have appeared in infinite variety of
signs, from the single strand of diamonds
or pearls TO the most elaDOrately JeWeleQ
creations and from the tiny gold chain with
simple pendant to the festooned chains
set with amethysts, pearls, aquamarines,
perdots, tourmalines and turquoses.
One jeweler of prominence predicts great
development In gold articles. carved and
otherwise treated to secure artistic effects.
He claims that the stones now used
only to heighten the effect the metal orna-
ment will be of first Importance, and the
stones will not take the first place as for
merly.
Apropos Of the use of semi-precious
stones, it may be stated that in the past
two years the increase in the number and
application of these articles has been enor-
nous, and the price has consequently ad-
vanced accordingly. They are double the
expense that they were three years ago,
and they introduce so many colors that
were never used before that they suggest
infinite possibilities for artistic treatment.
OF the semi-precious stones most in use.
the aquamarine. tourmaline and the peridot
are the three most popular stones A knowl-
edge of semi-precious stones is most essen
tial to the modern jeweler.
The cutting of stones is another impor-
tant feature that shows the fluctuations of
fashion. While the round cut form is emf
nently the most satisfactory for diamonds
and others of the precious stones, the cali
Der or square cutting now fills an impor-
tant place.
Like the marquise, Notwithstanding and
pear-shaped cuttings for rubies, diamonds
and emeralds, it represents a feeling of the
moment. Rich people can buy articles
constructed of caliber stones. as they have
money to expend on extremes.
But while the desire for this style of cut
ting may continue for few years, and
while it is essential to the most artistic de-
signs, the stones being cut to fit the setting
square. keystone-shaped, or otherwise-it
is a style that will never become universally
popular. 1t is too expensive for the average
public and there is also the difficulty in
curing lapdaries.
The cushion cutting maintains its popu-
larity for rubfes sapphires and emeralds.
1t Is best adapted to these stones when they
are comparatively large, forming central
setting for some snowy ornaments.
Cabochon stones are also used extensive
ly in scarf pins, brooches and as clasps for
shopping bags and card and vanity cases.
Briolettes are sometimes used as the finish
ing touch of a brooch or La Vallieres but,
like the caliber stones, they are not des-
tined to a general popularity.
The regular cutting for diamonds Is by
far the most satisfactory in the long run,
as 1t brings out the brilliancy of the stone
to best advantage in all sizes and qualities.
The tiny stones that are used in the work.
ing out of artistic designs are all cut with
the usual number of facets of the diamond
cutting. This, of course, is one OF the
secrets of their beauty and extreme costli-
ness.
The combination Of fancy diamonds is
fad that is being developed by a
certain dealer. They are most expensive.
but their varying colors-amber, rose, coffee
and steel blue-render them charmlngly
adaptable to certain designs.