davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-08
Tunic Effect Seen

COME of the new skirts for
- dressy gowns have tunic eff
fccts, but rather carried out by an
upper skirt of trimming than by
an upper skirt of the material.
1t is more than probable that
what will succeed the present type
of toilette will in some form or
other be the tunic.
Such, at any rate. is the opinion
of many dressmakers, and were the
tunic boldly launched for a dressy
sort of a winter toilette, nobody
in Paris would be taken much by
surprise, so it is said.
Still this is more likely to be,
brought out for very late rather
than the early Inter, and for
evening rather than street wear.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-08
Winter Millinery

a GREAT many shades of red,
"A especially the new wine tints,
will be used in both shapes and
trimmings.
For evening wear dressy hats Of
lace or maline will be worn.
A favorite trimming for hand
some hats is the uncurled ostrich
feather in boa effect. This is wound
around the crown of the hat in q
very graceful fashion, and is often
completed by an ostrich feather
pompon. The latter, however, is not
always used. The boa effect can be
combined with floral trimmings or Q
long plume can be substituted.
Combined with flowers, however.
marabout plumes are oftener used
than ostrich.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-08
PARIS NOTES.

THE very latest fashion in vogue
L is to wear satin and silken
knee-breeches, in lieu of the beruf-
fed and ribbon-decked garment
worn until now, and this is the out
come of the Paquin skirt, which is
SO tightly fitting across the hips
that not pleat must be seen in the
underwear for fear Of spelling the
effect.
ola jupe game" is the most-talk-
ed-of mode of the present hour in
Paris, and it has been voted very
smart indeed. And so, to wear with
this new skirt, knee-breeches are
made, built of liberty satin and
lined with the softest chamois
leather or thin white silk.
They button or buckle just below
the knee, with ieweled or fancy
buckles or buttons, and give pi-
quaint eighteenth century appear
ance to the present time.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-08

These knee-breeches will be &C.
companied by black silk stockings
and patent-leather shoes, with broad
silver buckles; the Louis Nv Pc
Rod, indeed, seems to prevail just
now, with the Louis XIV vests Of
velvet and the full cambria or lace
jabot and jaunty marquis hats, that
are seen at present to such an ex-
tent.
All the big couturiers are at pres
ent making the most elaborate coats
to their visiting costumes, which
are not in the least of the tailor
order, so that it must not be
thought that a dress, because it
boasts a coat, is necessarily tailor
made. Many of the fur and cloth
jackets are furnished with outside
pockets, sometimes with and some
times without flaps, and generally
edged with braid.
Never have hats been more pic
turesque and more expensive than
they are this winter.
Huge velvet and silk blossoms,
giant pansies, chrysanthemums and
single dahlias are used to trim big
hats, while entire sable skins are
employed to adorn soft white beaver
felt chapeaux, in conjunction with
snowy aigrettes and all kinds of
costly fancy feathers.
The fashion of the trimming be-
ing placed on the crown Of the hat
still obtains.
Striped and shaded velvet cape
lines in light and dark gray and
black, with one huge, sweeping
feather swathing the crown and
falling gracefully over on to the
shoulder, are making their appear
ance, and they are extremely chic
and new.
Ruchings of old-time taffeta,
fringed out by hand, are used for
trimming the cloche shapes. and
they give a quaint and dainty effect
that is very attractive.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-08
New Evening Gowns

A IL the new evening gowns are
\ cut low in the neck, but the
lines are most carefully studied to
give the effect of being extreme,
while in reality they are not.
The square cut, with the straps
over the shoulders, is more fashion
able this winter than the round cut,
with sleeves falling off at the shout
ders, but, as a rule. there are tabs
of embroidery or wings of lace that
fall from the straps in long, grace
full lines.
The constant iteration of long
lines seems absolutely senseless to
the uninitiated, but the well-dressed
woman, whose clothes win admira-
ton, knows how much there is in
the expression and realizes that
this is the crucial consideration.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-08
Broad Figured Carriers
silk carriers will

z FIGURED silk garters will be
4 worn by fashionable women.
Not like the narrow, plain ones
that were formerly used for hard
wear, but artistic kinds, made
of pretty colored silks, gathered and
shocked so that they are decidedly
decorative.
Instead of being about an inch
wide, as the styles of a year ago,
these new ones are at least three
inches in width, with al edging of
narrow baby ribbon or of Valen-
ciennes lace.
In black with yellow rosebuds, or
in white with purple orchids, these
silk garters are stunning when
pleated or shocked in the latest
fashion.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-08
For the Home
Dressrnaker

A COLLAR lining of taffeta
4 should be cut so that the 'front.'
part is on the straight of the mate
rial and the curved part Of the COL
lar will then come on the bias.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-08


better without any touch of
II color above their faces, and
women whose hair is at its best
when its lines are not broken
BY any ornament; but the variety
among couture ornaments is now so
great that almost any woman may
find something eminently becoming
to her if she has but the wisdom to
choose the right thing.
Leaving the jeweled tiara, which
is always in order for full dress
and seldom extremely becoming, the
feather and simpler coiffures have
precedence this season.
It is not easy to adjust these Or
naments becomingly, and they are
not so appropriate and becoming to
the debutante as flowers; but the
modern young matron chooses a
feather ornament and adjusts her
hair to suit the ornament.
In Paris, as is usual with Pa
risian modes, this has been carried
to greater lengths than will proba-
bly, be seen here, but the designs ex-
ported for American trade are more
conservative.
The paradise plume s as popular
in couture decoration as in milli-
merry, and this soft, sweeping feather
is more easily adjusted in the hair
than are the little ostrich tips which
rival the paradise tips in popularity.
sometimes this paradise feather
is held by jeweled ornament. Some
times it starts from a knot of tulle,
which finishes one end of a little
coronet wreath of twisted tulle.
One attractive design in white
and silver shows two little Mercury
wings of net almost entirely COW
cred with cleaning silver paillettes
and sweeping white paradise
plume springing from behind the
wings.
Similar ornaments are offered in.
black and gold and delicate colors.
One sees, too, knots of velvet, either
In chou or bowknot form, embroid-
cred in paillettes and holding para
disc plumes.
Some of these ornaments are ex-
ceedingly simple, only a bit of rib
bon velvet arranged cleverly through
the hair. Any clever girl could
easily copy many Of the models
given on this page
The first illustration is a tiny
band of old delft blue velvet ribbon.
one inch in width, wired on the in
side with a rope fat wire. 1t has
a tiny bow, very stiff, on the side.
This may be carried out in any
color, but the shades of blue or the
pinks are the most generally becom.
ing
The next ornament is of pink
louisine ribbon, about four inches in
width, arranged in a graceful, loose
bow and coiled around through the
hair. 1t is wired with a fat silk
wire. the same shade as the ribbon.
The third illustration shows one
OF the newest models. 1t may be
made of tulle or net, in white or in
any of the pastel colors, wired and
banded on the edges with black vel
vet ribbon In narrow width. The
bow is very large.
A clever style is pictured in the
fourth drawing. This ornament is
made of bands of black velvet in
Greek style, with one large rose
fastened on the side.
Pale blue satin is charmingly
combined with long aigrette in the
fifth illustration. This may also be
carried out in delft blue supple vel
vet. with one lono ostr;cb ,,l,,r.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-08
The Cham of the Neatly Dressed

fixed in their places.
Her gloves do not ,-rinkle, but
button smoothly over her wrists
her shoes are dainty and polished.
Her bonnet or hat is pinned on
straight and her hair is neatness it.
self.
She is the picture Of delicate fin
ish and wholesome order.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-08
Adjusting Gathers

IN ADJUSTING the gathers of u
L garment or ruffle they should be
drawn up between the thumb and
first finger, and stroked into posi-
ton with the needle.
When a gathered edge is to be
joined to a straight edge, it may
be neatly accomplished by whipping.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-08

A COLLAR lining of taffeta
\ should be cut so that the 'front.'
part Is on the straight of the mate
rial and the curved part Of the COL
lar will then come on the bias.
When altering a blouse it is a
mistake to mo- the shoulder seam
to the front. A better plan is to let
it drop backward instead of for.
ward.
It is a good plan to bend steels or
whalebones at the waistline when
making a bodice before putting
them into the castings, as the bodice
will then fit closer to the figure.
In sewing a piece of material on
the bias to a straight piece, the
former is apt to become stretched.
To avoid this the bias should be
placed underneath, and it will then
be sewn in evenly.
Always make the neck of blouse
slightly smaller than the base Of the
collarband, and in lacking it into
position it is an excellent plan to
cut few notches in the blouse so as
to avoid wrinkles when the collar is
finally stitched on.
Don't, in order to avoid a tight
blouse, cut a large armhole so as to
give more play to the arm. A far
better plan is to ease the side seam.
A wide armhole causes the blouse to
be pulled out of place at the waist
when the arm is lifted.
It is often difficult to prevent the
pile of velvet from being crushed
in stitching it, and good plan is to
place a piece of the same material
face downward on it. The fingers,
resting on this, will not Aatten the
pile.
To strengthen shirt buttonholes,
stitch them round with cotton after
they are finished. They will then
last much longer and not tear away
from the material.
A thin silk, or one that trays
easily, can be cut out better if laid
between sheets of thin paper, and
the pattern cut through paper and
material together.
After stitching down a seam,
press with a hot iron; and if no
seamboard is at hand, it is useful
to know that rouing-pin, wrapped
in a clean cloth. will answer the
purpose equally well.
In making a blouse, too deep a
round must not be cut for the neck
at the outset. 1t is better to try it
on first, and then outline a semi
circle in front with a row of pins,
cutting it evenly on fat surface.
If thin crinoline is inserted in
the bottom of a skirt hem to stiffen
it, care should be taken to cut it on
the bias. 1t may be slightly stretch
ed before being sewn in place, so as
to follow the curve of the hem of
the skirt.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-08
How to Make French Seams

THE French seam is always used
l on fine underwear.
To make it the cloth is scanned
on the right side, taking a very
narrow seam, and then trimmed off
as closely as possible
It is then turned and stitched on
the wrong side, the first seam being
entirely inclosed.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-08

,genta, royal blue and bright violet
should be severely let alone.
For those with chestnut hair, dark
eyes and fair skin, creamy white is
far and away the best choice, while
black will be equally becoming for
evening wear.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1907-04-24
BITAULI1Ic SQUAD IN the
CONTINUED from Page One.)

expenses, but it seemed discrinla tory
to him for the city to take care of the
garbage in the residence districts and
make the merchants who paid more
taxes take care of their own. Business
men were victims of all sorts of graft
and there was no need of adding this
burden to them. He did not believe ii
vas just right to them.
City Attorney BlandfOrd was called
upon to explain the working of the
Portland and Spokane ordinances. He
said the private scavengers were reg
lated by rules made at the time IL
censes were granted. designed to III
sure the proper discharge of their
luasi-publiC duties.
The argument that it was not fair
or one man to get 100 times as much
waste removed as his neighbor for the
same cost appealed. to ''Landsmann"
Bachtold He was in favor of a
change, from the present system but
did not think the ordinance covered
the ground. 1t ought to be more COM
prehensive.
The bill was referred to the judiciary
committee for further tinkefing so that
it might be sloop tight.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1907-04-24
CITIZENS OF WALLA WALLA
p. ..,,,. =, ATTENTION.. ;..r
500 Rooms Wanted for Persons Attend.
ing Tri- State interschoIastie
Track Meet, May I, 2, 3.

The Walla Walla Commercial club
issues the following statement to the
citizens Of Walla Walla concerning
the Tri-State Interscholastfc Track
Meet to be held at whitman college,
Thursday and Friday, May 2. 3. r."
The railroads of the northwest have
granted a special rate of one fare and
ton. Oregon and Idaho to persons COM
ing to Walla Walla for this TriState
Interscholastic Track Meet and in adj
lion special trains are being run
from Spokane, Garfield and ColfaX
az Il one fare rate and return. This
means that there will be 1000 visitors
in Walla Walla on the dates of May
/. 2. and 5, for whom the citizens of
Walla Walla must find accommodate
tons.
All those who can rent rooms for the
above dates are urged by the Com
mercial club to communicate. at the
earliest possible date. with the secre-
tary of the club. either in person, at the
rooms in the Ransom building or call
him by telephone, Main 1889. stating
the number Of rooms to rent, address
and price. The club urges upon the
citizens the necessity o. a prompt re-
Spouse to this request.
F. w. KAISER, .
= President Commercial Club.
A. C. MOORE,
Secretary Commercial Club.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1907-04-24
PORTLAND POLICE ASK
DAY OFF OR WILL STRIKE

PORTLAND, April 24.-POrtland's
policemen are likely, to go out on a
strike. A number of them want a day
off each week, and if they do not get
it they may quit the department and
accept positions which have been Of
fered to them by wholesale merch-
ants and wharfingers.
The conservative policemen would
be satisfied with one day off in two
weeks, but the others say they should
be allowed one day off every week.
They are. they say, subject to the call
Of the chief at any time, as the fire
men are, and they should We given the
privileges of the firemen. The firemen
are given IL hours leave each week.
but they are subject to the call of the
chief. -.'
The policemen ate given a vacation
Of IL days each summer. mat, they
say. Is the only rest they have from
their duties during the year. They
have to stand their watches every
day during the remaining 1853 days. and
they do not get get day off from
the beginning to the end OF the vaca-
ton term.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1907-04-24
And 5.Year-0|d Boy Vas Whipped
by Butcher
gas.

PORTLAND. April 24.-Little s.
year -old Ralph Newton. the preco-
cious son Of Mrs. n. F. Newton Of 305
Larabee street. was the star witness
in the police court this morning in the
case Of S. Wineford. a butcher. Of 2ss
Weidler street. who is charged with
having dashed the youngster with a
buggy whip.
Wineford was arrested upon COM
plant of Mrs. Newton, who alleged
that the meat dealer without provoca-
ton whipped her offspring. The case
came to trial. this morning, and after
the mother had testified as to the as
sault on her child, Master Ralph took
the stand
The lad, attired in a natty blue sail
or suit, evinced no fear of the stern
visaged judge, the frowning deputy
city attorney or the clerk with the
megaphOne voice. and clambered upon
his mothers knee to tell how it all
happened.
I'VE was throwing sticks into the
shop" said the little fellow in a child
ish treble, after he had become COM
fortably settled in his mothers lap.
land then that bau man came and hit
me with a big whip on the leg"
Did it hurt much?' asked Depu-
ty Fitzgerald.
"Uh, huh. and cried. did," replied
the youthful witness. I'VE was only
foolin' at first. but when we was by
the chicken coop he t'rew piece of
meat at U.S.
What were you doing to the chick
ens?" inquired Judge Cameron.
"Wigglin' their tails" laughed Mas
ter Ralph, and the courtroom was in an
uproar.
Wineford. in his own behalf, denied
striking the child. but admitted that he
had used the whip to brighten the boy.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1907-04-24
TO BE CARRIED CHEAPER.
Postoffce Department Begins Work Of
Readiustinq Pay to Railroads.

WASHINGTON. D. G.. April "a
The readjustment of compensation to
be paid the railroads for transporting
the United States mails after July /.
1907. has been begun in the ONCE Of
the second assistant postmaster gen
eral Cuts"of f1ve and ie per cent are
being made.
Congress insisted that there should
be a reduction of five per cen, on all
routes carry an average daily weight OF
mail of more than 5000 pounds and
less than $4,000 pounds. Above 49,
900 pounds the cut is to be 10 per cent
on each ton Of mail carried daily.
The first case adjusted was that of
the Chicago. Milwaukee ana st. Paul
on its service between Ortonville, MINI.
and Bowville. S. D. The distance Is 166
miles. The road on this short haul has
been receiving $173,56 per mile per
year. The reduction win not be so
much ON this, only 13 cents a mile. in
fact, but it will amount to a consider
able sum in the course of four years.
the term for which the contract is
made with the government.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1907-04-24
MILLIONAIRE TRAMP INSANE TWISTED CHICKENS TAILS
Heir to Much Money Goes Il
Salem Asylum

! PORTLAND. April 24.-John Schuy-
Ter Randell. Harrison. the millionaire
tramp who has been in the county jail
for the. past six weeks charged with
decamping with a sack; of money be-
longing to the Skidmore Drug COM
pany. has gone insane. and will prob
ably be committed to the state asylum
at Salem pending the action of rep
resentatives Of the estate to which he
has fallen heir in Philadelphia. An in
sanity complaint was filed against him
by his attorneys. ...
1t is alleged Harrison is joint heir
with his father and brother to 20 bust
ness blocks in Philadelphia, left them
recently by the dea,h of Miss Ellen
Castle, a near relative. Harrison has
been an epileptic all his life, and it
was this malady which caused his wife
to leave him eight years ago and
caused him to become a wanderer on
the face of the earth. He has tramped
ana worked in many countries. bur al
ways lost his job on account of his
periodical fits.
Harrison came here from eastern
Oregon in charge of a drove of sheep
sent to market by a stockman. He al
terward secured job in the Skidmore
drug store. One day Manager Ralph
Crysler gave him sack of coin to
put in the bank, and Harrison went out
and never returned. The next day he
turned up at lodging house in Asto-
ria, where he announced he had been
robbed He was brought back to Port
land by Detective Hellyer but declared
that he had not intended to steal
that he must have wandered away
while In a temporary condition of men,
tai alteration.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1907-04-24
HELD IN COCAINE CURE"
Heath and Donahue, Propristors Of I,
g. - s<itute, Fined 400. Each.

Heath and Oonahue, Proprietors Of In
% :, stitote, Fined 500 Each.
CHICAGO, April 24.-Harry Heath
and Thomas Donahue. proprietors OF
an alleged cocaine cure institute" al
1900 wabash avenue, were fined $500
each and costs by Municipal Judge
Fake. yesterday, on the charge Of de-
tanning two women in the place. One
of, the women. who gave the name of
Anna Donahue. claimed to be the sister
of "A clergyman in San Francisco and
said that seven months ago she be-
came acquainted with Heath ana was
lured~ to Chicago by him on a promise
Of marriage. < :::
Edna Mack. wife of John Mack. 107
SangamOn street, was the other
woman. She said she had been detained
a month without the knowledge of her
husband. 1t was on complaint of Mr..
Mack that Sergeant Murphy of the
Twenty second street police station
raided the INSTITUTE.
Judge Fake requested the police to
take the women to the House of the
Good Shepherd.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1907-04-24
ANN ARBoR RAISES GRADE.
Two Years Work in Literary Depart
mont Will be REQUIRED.

ANN ARBOR, Mich. April 24.-The
board of regents in their meeting here
today decreed that, beginning with the
class to enter in the fall of 1909. every
candidate for the degree Of NJ. D. in
the college of medicine and surgery Of
the University of Michigan shall show
a certificate that he has had two years
work in the literary department OF
some. first class college
Undoubtedly it will cause great
falling off in attendance in that de-
partment for time. but the president
and department officials believe 1t best
to sacrifice numbers to standard
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1907-04-24
JUROR SAYS He
WAS SPOKEN TO
One Man Charged With Talk
ing MoyeP-HayWood

BOISE, Idaho, April 24.-In the dis
trict court this morning w. NJ. Yost
appeared in answer to a citation to
show cause why he should not be held
for contempt.
The citation is based on the afflda-
yit Of Juror Wagner Of the regular
panel, who said Yost tried to discuss
the Meyer Haywood case with him and
tried. to draw out an opinion.
J, The defendant was represented BY
Nugent and Miller. the federation at
torneys, who died melton to Quash
the andavit on the ground it not
sustain any offense. The court tool
the latter under abatement
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1907-04-24
School Board Made Prisoner.

IONA. Mich. April .24.-While the
school board was listening to the de-
Tense of a number of high school pu-
pills against the charge Of having en-
tered the building at night and turneo
things topsy turvy. some of the ac-
cused, who had failed to appear, tied
the hall doors shut, and made prison.
ers Of parents, teachers. and board.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1907-04-24
Asks Murder -NerA,et.

NEW YORK, April 24.-Assistant
District Attorney Ely opened the case
against Baroness Demassey today, de-
handing a verdict of first degree MUIR
der. The defendant was the best
dressed woman in the court and ap-
parently the least interested
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1907-04-24
Murderer Gets Life.

CHICAGO. April 24.-The jury this
afternoon found Charles J. Hunson
guilty of the murder of Policeman
Luke Fitzpatrick and sentenced him to
life. November Is, 1906, Hunson and
Guy Vantassel. suspected by officers of
being fugitives. attempted to arrest
them. A battle followed in the Madi-
son avenue elevated station in which
Fitzpatrick was killed
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1907-04-24
NOTICE.

Should this reach the eye of Mr..
August. Carlson or any one who knows
him. kindly inform him that his
brother Olaf Carlson died in St. Paul.
Wednesday morning, April II. He is
wanted at st. Paul at once and if this
notices reaches him have aim tele-
graph to Mr.. G. N. Bafggen, care of
the Mcbride Electric Company. St.
Paul, MINI.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1907-04-24
St. Louis Indifferent.

ST. LOUIS. April 24.-The general
opinion Of the labor leaders in ST.
Louis in the controversy regard it of
little moment. The central trades
council meets Sunday. Secretary David
Kreyling says it might possibly take
some action.