The Washington herald., 1907-11-15


silver laces. or a lace mesh darned with
these metals in finely spun threads or
gorgeously colored silks II she did but
know It is simply experiencing the sensa-
tions of the fair danes of mediaeval times
and even centuries earlier for gold and
silver laces and darned nets were the
very earliest of those filmy fabrics which
have become one of the most important
adornment of women's apparel
Paintings on ancient Egyptian sarco-
phag depicts workers such as those re-
ferred % In the book of Isaiah ''as they
that work in fine fax and they that weave
network and the robes of the royal per-
sOnages seem 10 be of this network darn
ed around the hem IN gold, silver. and
colored silks. The ancient tombs OF the
Egyptians. as well as those in a Roman
cemetery in middle Egypt. yield up speci-
mems Of network in small pieces and as
entire wrappings. those around some Of
the mummes showing designs Of cut
work, drawn work. and other open trim
ming effects. Homer writes of wells Of
net woven of gold. and Dante, centuries
later. mentions them also, besides referr-
ing to trimmings Of gold lace Of inn
moderate richness.
The Saracens are supposed to have
taught the art Of lace work to the Nene-
tians and other Italians, and the honor
Of introducing lace TO the world at large
seems to be due to Italy. although France,
Flanders. and Spain also claim II.
II was in Italy. in 1866, or thereabouts,
that the lacemakers first substituted flax
threads for the costly ones of pure metal
Except for bordering the robes worn on
best occasions. the laces of this period
were mainly used for church purposes,
for the vestments of the Pope and other
church dignitaries. and most Of the work
was done in the converts. The converts
IN England engaged in the making of
sumptuous church embrOideries and laces,
the Popes writing or sending for such
pieces as they desired from time 10 time,
and so encouraging the industry from
afar
The two kinds of handmade lace are
wrought either with a needle, which Is
known distinctively as needlepoint or
with bObbins, when il is called bobbin
lace. and I'm the first named Italy has
ever led the world from a time lost in
antiquity until the present, and that pro-
El@SSlNt country also tldlilS llt Al4lLO-
duction of bobbin-made lace.
a woman OF the Saxon Hartz Noun
tains. Frau Barbara Uttman, in 1861 had
at Annaberg the first school or work
shop for the manufacture Of laces for
the public in general and the mountain
girls of the neighbOrhood were employed
ia numbers. At one time thirty thousand
were recorded. Her life work is described
at length on her tombstone. the errOne-
Gus claim being made that she invented
bobbin lace.
1t was Colbert. Minister TO Louis XVI
who first established the French lace fac
tories and black silk lace was FIRST worn
at the time or the marriage of Louis TO
the Infanta Maria Theresa In the six
teenth century Emperor Charles V or
oercd lacemaking taught in schools and
converts. Flanders was a dangerous ri
val 20 Italy's supremacy. and the re-
ligious refugees from the Netherlands IN
the sixteenth century impaired their
knowledge OF laCemalJing with bobbins
wherever they settled The beautiful fiOw-
ing designs of the well-knOwn Flanders
laces were eagerly adopted, and this lace
at the present time is acknowledged as
being one Of the best to be had. In Ant
Werp the bobbin lace workers flourished
greatly and wrought exquisite specimens
of the most cobwebby description, the
thread used there being the best known
TO this industry.
No ground. or "reseau." I'm the parlanCe
of lacedom, can ever equal the needle
ground for clearness or lightness al
though many devices have been resorted
10 to gain the result with less labor and
cost. One man at Munich took a curious
departure and actually obtained lace
woven by caterpillars. He spread Il paste
os food they liked on "A fiat stone SET
upright. and traced a design I'm oil on this
paste. The caterpillars were started at
the base, and in their upward climb spur
strong net, extraordinarily light. avoid
ing the path touched by the oil and
making a definite design.
Handkerchiefs will dry as IL ironed II
while still wet they are carefully smoth-
ed out on the window pane or mirror
or painted walls. which are very smooth
Start on time to get ready" when YOU
have definite place TO reach AT definite
time Acquire this habit and it will save
nerve wear. lines in the face. and tenn
per. which spoils sweet natures.
DO not stick hat pins in a different
place every time the hat is worm The
multitude of small holes are very un-
slightly and soon spoil even the most
beautiful Of hats. Pin underneath the
brim if possible but, If not. have one
place for the pin to pass through and
keep il there.
Cut or break thread off DO not bite it
This wears off the enamel Of the teeth
and is very injurious.
Blue will certainly &c IN high favo,
this fall and winter.
Navy and royal blue are looked upor
as fashion leaders,
Brown viii be a favorite-russet. Ha.
vana. and leather shades.
The silver and dark mouse gray will b,
especially fashionable.
Black will be a conspicuous note f.
both trimmings and fabrics.
Copenhagen blue and natter blue ol
old blue are both high-style shades.
A pretty stock for long. slim throat.
is made very high and snug of whit,
tucked lawn. with footing going around
the neck. The collar is made 70 far,
slightly and finished at bow ends with 2
narrow knife plating.
The newest skirts. while conforming Il
one or two single principles, are endIessl,
varied.
The principal points are a sheath III
over the hips and a fare at the foot.
The preference is given to a plain skirt
trimmed with bands Of its own material
The humble wrapper Is a back number
All the feminine world is now wearing
the daintiest Of house frocks. for these
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