The daily sentinel., 1907-10-02

widths to strap the seams of the
jacket
With the three-piece costume, the
three-quarter sleeve will be seen. II
is little fuller than the seven-eights
sleeve, and is much decorated with
shirrings and tucks. 1t is said that
the 'mitten-sleeve" is soon to appear
again. certainly the tendency is
pointing that way. While the three
quarter sleeve is by no means as
graceful as the elbow sleeve il is
more in the right direction. One
thing must be remembered the morn
ing suit must have long sleeves. the
afternoon costume may and probably
will have three-quarter sleeves. and
the shorter lengths must be reserved
for late afternoon and evening
waists.
After choosing the fabric and de-
sign for new costume it is most
important that some thought should
be given to the corset and petticoat
1t is of absolute importance that the
cut and fit of both adjuncts to nice
dressing be perfectly correct. As
skirts of the present season have a
simplicity of cut, and lack of trim
ming which shows quickly any defect
in its foundation. 1t Is obvious how
necessary is forethought Ally tailor
or dressmaker will thank you for
your care and give you any help
needed in choosing the corset. indeed
they may keep different figures: and
they will gladly make your under
skirt first, as she knows the impor-
tance Of these things.
The petticOat should be of soft
supple silk or satin, clinging closely
about the hips and fall in ample
folds although it need not flare, There
is a decided tendency towards less
rufling about the bottom for the
skirts are not held out so much as
they were, yet just as much material
is used in their construction.
The first afternoon costume seen
i'll recent exhibition was developed
from cedar-brown chiffon broadcloth
with Cluny and flet lace for the un-
derblouse. The SKIRT was five gorel
platte design. The front falls straight
ia a panel formed by two plaits over
the seams. A band cut in conven-
tional mitred design decorated the
| bottom and is stitched in place with
| dark green silk. In sweep length the
some three or four inches ia the back.
The waist or overblouse, was cut low
over the bust and passed over the
shoulders with mere straps. which
with the front was decorated with
an applied design. of the cloth. The
| shoulders were broad in their effect
by means of the peculiar cut of the
sleeve. The underblouse of Cluny
lace was decorated with "laid-in'
| piece of fllet lace The sleeves are
| full to the elbow where they meet
a close cuff of filet lace, reaching al
most to the three-quarter length
| The coat was rather loose in effect
but well fitted through the finely
ssoped undtr-arm and scentreebach
seams. The sleeves of the coat were
almost seven-eighths length finished
| with reversed cuffs decorated with {
design to correspond with that or
the skirt, and the same was applied
to the band applied to the collar-les'
neck and kimono sleeve band ovei
the shoulders. The neck was Gu
low to show the inside guimpe.
The graceful redihgote mode prom
lses to be prime favorite this com
ing season. This model was uset
for blue broadcloth decorated will
an applique of galloon in back. A
II is particularly dressy design for
church or calling costume, 1t deserve
some thought from the woman VIII
is desirous of something now In fash
ions.
The coat is close fitting at til
waist ard Joined to the skirts unde
Il belt of the material decorated wit
gallouu. The collar-less neck is out
| al, t,-f, f,,fy
peated on the long coat sleeves an
the band on the fronts that exten
out on the shoulder like Japanes
bands The three-quarter sleev
length was tucked into the arm hole
and their fullness caught by tucks un
der a straight cuff.
The eisht-gored skirt is platte
design, the stitching of the plaits 70
a considerable depth producing fit
ted effect at the top, with n fullnes
below that measured five yard
and seyen-eights at the lower edg
with the plaits drawn out. shor
crosswise band of galloon is apple
on each gore. The skirt Is in swee
length, quite touching the floor OF
all sides. but has no train.
| The fronts of the redingote sklr
may be in cutaway style in whicl
case the front of the skirt might hav
more elaborate decoration upon II
The waist was of the bretelle variet
over "A lingerie blouse of fine silk an,
valencinnes lace.
This design would make very ap
propriate calling costume for bride
made of grey broadcloth trimmed
with Persian bands. The fronts o
the redingote could be "cutaway' Il
display a front skirt panel elaborate
in applique decoration of fine BRAT
and elk floss. The underblous
could be of cream Cluny lace and tn
bretelles of Persian trimming.
hat of grey velvet trimmed with pan
sizes, white wings, velvet bands an,
loops would be pretty and the glove
would also be Of grey TO match tn