The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-08-04
PARIS FASHIONS.
BY MADAME PARouIN.

" nave dl last Ia1riy set IN, ana even
with evening gowns the short sleeve is
oeing substituted by long, tight-fitting
manehe of lace. which comes right
down to the wrist and is cut into a
mitred point over the back of the hand
IN ieu OF lace these are sometimes
made of the finest point d'esprit edged
WIN tiny ruche of FValenciennes lace
or IN other cases the pattern of the lace
is outlined with silver thread or even
with the minutest of nail-head gold
sequins.
The latest innovation where millinery
is concerned is that of black hops.
which are substituted for brilliantly
colored flowers, and a curious effect is
gained in the case of white hats
Wreathed with these hops. which give
mourning effect more potent even than
black ribbon or black flowers. In sums
cases the hops are introduced on bur-
nlshed mordore straws, and interspeTsed
with quantities of green foliage and
loups of black taffetas ribbon.
Some of the srnartest Partisan toi-
lettes which have BEEN evolved for
garden party wear are carried cut in
coarse-grained Tussore in the new
shade of green known as mulberry
leaf, which is soft in tone, and IS an
darkish gray tint of the foliage. These
toiiettes for the most part consist OF
pelerlne coat and skirt, the former
reaching below the knees and supple
menJed with three-quarter length cape
sleeves finished with deep f1ounces OF
old ivory lace. In many cases a charm
ing effect is gained by suppIementing
the wrap with a fine border of supple
laced cloth to match, which is brought
up the skirts" of the coat at the back
to the waist, where it is passed under
mltred band of silver braid, narrow
silver and green soutache being worked
ali over the CLOTH while the same is re-
peated in the form of a deep hem on
the skirt
Contrary to all expectations at tile
early part of the season, when cvery-
one was looking forward to reign OF
i1lmy muslin and lawn, the tailor-lnads
has absolutely asserted its sway
Striped costumes have had a far longer
vogue in Paris than is usually the case
and. the plainly made, striped coat
SIMPLY hemmed with braid or taffetas
and unadorned with any trimmings
whatever beyond strappings of. its owl
material, has been taken up enthusi-
astlcally. For once the example of the
French women has proved the saliva
ton OF those who were wont to over
load THAR costumes with cheap trim
mings; and not only in the three-uuar-
ter length coats, but even in the little
short coats and boleros which are more
popular with the majority of women, q
like moderation is shown
Coats of cream cloth made in modi-
fed Norfolk form and trimmed with
loose-meshed silk braid will be exceed
ingly popular during the summer holt
day, and will be worn over neat skirts
of lawn or lfnens with the inevitable
ooX-pleated frill down the trent and
tiny bOw-ties of taffetas or Velvet
With these little costumes will be
worn large Leghorn hats simply
trimmed with wide taffetas ribbsn to
match the tie and arranged in duantf-
ties of loops, forming an ensemble
which would be very hard to beat even
If the weather were kind enough to al
low of muslins and chiffons.
Another important material is the
fashionable Ramie Tuxedo. cloth,
which is made of the fibre of an Ash
attic plant and is wonderfully popular
this season. This material provides the
smartest and most practical of white
coats and skirts and can be delivered
over.to the ministra tons of the laun-
dress without the smallest misgivings
while the soft, silky sheen on its sur
face is by no means iIterfered with
after long series of dimensions in
the Washtub.
One of the most important points
concerning the taflor-made of today is
the devotion shown TO the short skirt.
Not only in the matter. Of cIetfry cos
tunes, but in The case of every gown
Tor morning wear and many of those
for afternoons, the skirts are made TO
clear the ground. This, however, ne
cessitates Immaculate footgear, moth
ing being made likely to detract from
neat appearance than a white shoe,
which has lost its pristine freshness
and which has been fndifferently
cleaned. 10
A characteristic os present fashions
is the employment. FOR, dresses of tulle
with large designs worked into it, al
most similar to that which used to be-
seen in window curtains. They are
largely embroidered i'll Gotten and in
vegetable silk-an arrangement which
gives them an aspect not only new, but
quite charming. These Jules go nd
mirably with tOile, and make together
dresses light and attractive for the
summer season. Silk rluslins with
large painted flowers are much in vogue
this year. The Duchess d'Audiffret
Pasquier wore at the Grand Prix,
Longchamp, a lovely lace of this de-
scription, trimmed with eneircling
bands of black silk, these bands form
ing q border for the skirt and also bre-
telles for the corsage. The effect was
as fresh as it was charming.
The mixture of laces of various sorts
which is so much favored just now al
lows the production of jackets of ex-
traOrdinary richness, to which the
rarest and most precious points lend
their designs and the extreme delicacy
Of their fabrics. These are laden with
tassels Of stronger or of Irish lace, and
among the leaders of fashion the high
est chic is to wear them with extreme
ly simple dresses Of toils. SILK frin ges
adorn the ends of scarfs or stoles of
lace, and the same are used for the or
namentation of sunshades. With white
dresses necklaces of pale-rose quartz
are much worn, cut in the form of
small globes, separated from each
other by small beads of crystal or of
diamonds, the glisteDing OF which pro-
duces a splendid effect. Other ladies
have adopted for this purpose black
moire ribbons, ending in pendent orna-
ments Of paste pearls or hoo0ped with
a kind of sliding breach in diamonds,
which seem almost to be set or en-
crusted IN the MORE itself These form
the newest developments of the high
est refinement of ia ShiOn