The Washington herald., 1907-11-20

skirts worn with handsome jackets of
cloth IN plain colOrs.
Deep, medium, and quite dark shades
ana combinations OF the same are noticed
OF truly elegant modes. for the coutu-
rieres have agreed that subdued tones
snail be feature of winter modes.
Some of the new skirts are causing IN
usual discussion in fashionable circles.
there being shown a tendency bv some
OF the leading firms to produce wrinkled
erect at the front. about midway be-
tween the hips and knees. No one seems
aoie TO explain the purpose of the inno-
walton just now. but one must confess to
liking for the innovation, probably be-
cause II is what IL is.
One of the French firms IS showing a
skirt that rises TO a moderate girdle
helght folding snuEly around the waist
and falling from there in clinging folds.
which mold the hips without wrinkles.
drop straight to the ground at sides and
back, but are caught slightly in front by
several little horizontal folds. which pre-
vent the too definite defining Of the abdo-
men curve and adds SURPRISINGLY TO the
grace OF the skirt. The design is long all
the way around and carried out in a
delicious shade Of potato brown panne
NeiNet trimmed with its own material
combined with filet about the bodice. In
iact, most of the bodice is Of the lace.
embroidered in faint colors and appllqued
with big patches of the panne put on with
buttonhole stitch embroidery. The sleeves
are OF velvet. very fun at the upper part
and drawn into a transparent cuff Of en-
broidered filet
Not a few of the latest costumes for
winter wear have the skirts made after
the model just mentioned. and besides
being cut upon unusually close lines.
many of the skirts are drawn in by two
elastics at the back and ends. about a
loot and a half from the bottom. with
out even the usual blind hounces un-
derneath. SO that around the feet there
Is not even the sheer support for the
outer skirt
Frocks Of too decided color. as once
seen they are always remembered.
OF elaborately trimmed skirts. for the
same reason.
Women should generally avoid bargains
offered In dress materials one seldom
gets a genuine bargain who is not an OK
perlenced buyer with an educated sense
OF selection.
Sleeves OF all save knockabout garments
are still short, although often there are
provided long. adjustable cuffs reaching
from the elbow 20 the wrist. and made
ornamental with satin velver and lace
trimming similar TO that used elsewhere
cn the costume.
With many handsome gowns are worn
marabou scarfs with mufrs 10 match. and
these accessories correspond with the tone
OF the gown Few novelties introduced
by Dame Fashion have proved more pc
coming, and an colors are represented
IN the latest scarf and muff sets. from the
most delicate to the dark rich tones
while some remarkably striking effects are
gained by combination of marabou and
ostrich plumes and marabou and natural
quiIls
Flumes and fur might seem "a quaint
combination. yet they are associated very
successfully IN some of the new muffs and
stoles for evening wear and formal func-
tions. For instance. a chinchilla stole Will
have large fluffy ends of ostrich feathers
while the Incroyable collar or dainty en-
brOidered braid VIII show "a sort of neck
tie finish formed Of alternating bands of
lace and fur and ostrich tips Of course
no attempt is made 10 tie these bands to-
gether. but instead they are caught with
a buckle of bulliauts or other jewels.
Fringe trimmings Of all kinds hold their
own admirably. Something novel is a
fringe composed of tiny gold balls. say
about the size Of a soldier bean. The balls
are hung OF gold soutache braid. and the
most effective way to use the trimmings
IS TO place the braid between two folds
Of the dress material or fabric trim
ming. SO that only the balls show.
Sometimes these gold balls depend from
bands of lace. TO change the variety. \
Rue RoyaIe establishment uses the trim
ming TO advantage in an afternoon gown
Of olive white voile. the waist being trim
med with deep ball fringe and a narrower
border of zibeline depending from a band
of embroidered lace.
The skirt Is decorated with bands Of
lace. under which are stitched the fringe
trimming. and these begin at the knees
and continue 70 within a few inches Of
the bottom, where they meet a deep hem
OF white satin moire.
As brown is "a leading color Of the sea-
son, naturally brown furs are given
prominent place in the world Of fashion.
Next TO sable, mink and pine marten are
in demand. and a pretty little coat Of
mink has the smartest of cuffs. collar
and walstcoat of such clever arrangement
Of cloth and glace silk and brown velvet
finished with quaint striped buttons that
one could not help Coveting it,
Cloths and velvets in the dead shades
are handsomely trimmed with combina-
uons Of chinchilia and fancy braid. but
chinchilla is expensive because Il is grow
Ing scarcer every year, and the limitations
do not wear well; besides this disadvan-
tage, chinchilla is the one fur whose
coloring imitators have never been able
10 successfully reproduce. The genuine
pelt has an exquisite blush tint that is
It's chief glory and its salvation. perhaps
from the standpoint of manufacturers
VINO object to having their choice designs
duplicated by cheap processes.
Sable holds high rank among the ex
clu1ve furs Of the season. and is used
by leading French firm for a handsome
coat that is very long, reaching almost
10 the hem of the skirt. II boasts little
in Tie way of trimming on account Of
Us cFn natural elegance. but the de-
sign slows charming new lines Of cut and
finish.
A number Of handsome coats, both in
sable and chinchila-which. by the wav
Is extremely smart-are cut after the
style OF the Louis period, and there are
some empire effects which are given un-
usual ppminence I'm compliment 10 Prin-
cess Marie BOnsparte whose wedding
trousseai is replete with empire stvIes
from hnieries 10 surtOuts Only a few
Aheriea1 names are fortunate enough