The evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1907-1908, 1907-12-02
IN THE WORLD $.
OF FASHION.

The th~ree-piece costume of the winter
promises to develop picturesque and at
tractive features, though a few of the ex-
treme models already shown are bizarre
rather than beautiful. On the whole, how
ever. the graceful long coats of ~redingote
allure, heavily braided, the handsome
waistcoats, the clinging skirts. with their
cleverly arranged relation to bodices
which, though unquestionably integral
parts of the costumes, are yet sheer and
comfortable-all those make up costumes
which are distinctly admirable.
Broadcloth and velvet are the materials
most often pressed into service for these
models. though soft, rich silks of the order
of faille, duchesse, etc, promise to be
much used for this purpose, and one i'm
from a famous house which are of heavy
crepe de chine, braided and trimmed in
cloth and lace of self tone.
A more or less pronounced cutaway ef-
feet is noticeable In a large number of the
long coats, whether these coats are loose
fitting or semi-f1tting, and this cutaway af-
fords opportunity for the display of the
coat front or only at top and bottom.
Other walsteoats extend only as far down
as the top of the girdle, In a coat of this
kind the coat fronts usually roll back, ex-
posing a considerable width of waistcoat.
and the garment Is not so warm as a
snugiy buttoned coat. but considerations
Of warmth enter little into winter fashions
nowadays, and furs or an extra loose cloak
may be made to supplement a costume
more chic than sensible.
Soutache is still dear to the hearts of
designers. and the fine braid intricately
applied Is still much used on sheer stuffs,
but a holder and heavier kind of soutache
braiding appears upon many of the cloth
and velvet costumes, big buttons and orna-
ments made from the braid being used in
connection with the braidipg. One cloth
suit which we have In mind has a long
cutaway coat handsomely braided with big
braid buttons introduced in the front. the
sleeves and where the coat skirts are slit
sup the sides. This practise of opening the
coat skirts up the sides and trimming the
edges of the opening seems to have caught
the fancy Of the French designers, and
often this device is employed for the pur-
pose of securing fulness without bulky
awkwardness in the coat skirts.
Another pretty new model makes grace
full use Of this idea. The cutaway coat
skirts do not begin their slant until half
way between waistline and knee and from
that point they run down to three-quarter
lengths at sides, sloping up again, though
much less sharply toward the back. This
leaves a long point at each side Of the
coat and the cut allows considerable full
ness in the sides, but the coat skirts are
opened up from points to hips, Buttons
and silk loops are set along these open
ings and little weights are sewed In at the
bottom OF the points, so that the folds will
fall gracefully. Skirt and sleeves are
trimmed in harmonizing fashion, with silk
covered buttons and loops, and there is no
other trimming save a very effective waist
coat, which is of striped iron gray and
white silk embroidered over by hand in a
floral design of dull soft shades-blue, rose.
green and violet.
Buttons are important in the trimming
scheme this fall and are used in all sizes
and grades OF elegance. A number of pretty
bodice and skirt models in chiffon. broad
cloth n other soft lightweight woods
have little buttons and simulated buttons
holes set in long lines from waist to hem
on the skirt and from shoulder to girdle
on the blouse.