The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-10-20
LONDON FASHIONS.
(BY MAY DAWSON.)

| lovely robes of silver tissue embroi-
dered in delicate colorings. The chiffon
and velvet robes are made serviceable
by being protected at the bottom of
| the skirts with hens of velvet. and
many other transparent materials are
finished with deep hens of glace silk to
tone or in contrasting shade. Striped
| materials are having a great vogue,
and very effective designs are offered
| in different widths while among the
most recent innovations displayed there
is lovely faced cloth in three artistic
shades-"Ecaille' "Japon," and Cor
flu" These colors are very beautiful.
and embroidery with raised flowers in
several harmonizing shades come to
match, and filet lace tinted to the same
soft tones. The shade now known as
''Ecaille" is an exquisite golden brown,
/ 'Japon" is very becoming old China
| blue, while Corfu is a wonderful
| shade of wine red
Fine tweeds and velvets are combined
| together in many of the windows, and
they harmonic admirably Heavier
tweeds and face-cloths are in the same
| happy juxtaposition. A length of SOU
tache here, a little silver or gold braid
| ing there-these are welcome signs. But
the velvet gown and the velvet mantle
are still more to be welcomed. for they
bring in the reign of good lace and rich
| trimming, and mean good business for
| the dressmaker rather than patronage
for the tailor.
| Fer full-dress occasions nothing can
surpass velvet, with its rich bloom eff
| fectS and exquisite variety of shades.
| The range in shades of brown, from
russell to gold, is something little short
of the marvellous, and yet the tones of
violet are almost more varied still. FurS
and lace and velvet will make even the
plainest wearer look handsome. Anoth
| er notable feature will be of our inter-
| afternoon gowns, indoor and outdoor,
VIII be elaborate handing ornaments
of braid and chenille. Another notable
feature will be the high-folded belts
made of taffetaS ana of mirror velvet.
| These belts-which are very carefully
| bOned-are, for the most part, becom-
ing TO the figure. They are almost al
ways fastened at the back, and the
material Of which they are made is cut
on the cross and stretched round the
| figure. 1t is an easy matter TO make
| belts of this order at home. Take a
length of taffetas. cut on the cross, and
about sixteen inches wide; hem 1t In
visibly at either size, shape it slightly
in front so that it may mould itself to
| the figure, gather very finely the front
| seam, and introduce a piece of whale
back the two ends should be invisibly
supported with bones measuring about
four inches, and for a stout figure it
might be necessary TO have supports at
the sides. Many of the new model
gowns for afternoon wear show waist
bands of this order, and there is no
doubt that they will quickly become
very fashionable.
For afternoon gowns three-quarter-
length sleeves will be mostly used; the
| very short sleeve, that which failed to
reach the elbow, is a thing Of the past
except for evening wear, and coat"
sleeves are reserved, almost exclusive
ly, for tailor-made garments. For aft
ernoon gowns the three-quarter-length
and rucked mitten sleeves will divide
the honOrs; the latter find great favor
! with several of the big dressmakers in
London.
A very pretty and becoming sleeve
for women who are no longer quite
young" is the three-Quarter. arranged
in moderate puffs, with a transparent
mouSquetaire undersleeve reaching
down over the wrist. This is a revival
of an old fashion, and it is very well
come. Many women object to leaving
the lower portion of their arms bare
| and yet do not wish to wear long
! sleeves of thick material. For such as
these the transparent mousquetaire I'M
dersleeve is a real boon. Another vari-
alton of the three-quarter sleeve is
that made of supple material, such as
crepe de chine or radium, with softly
pulled upper part and rucked mitten
arrangement covering the rest of the
arm to the wrists. Mitten sleeves,
| when properly made and fitted, are
comfortable as they are pretty, and
they can be attached to a lace guimpe
and worn under blouse which pos
sesses loose pulled sleeves. ending off
just below the elbow.
Plain skirts-in rich materials-are
again coming into fashion; for after
noon wear, at eat homes" etc, they
look lovely in mirror velvet or Liberty
satin. These skirts are made in two
STYLES, in many cores or circular, with
a seam right down the front. AS gen.
eral rule the gored skirt is the more
becoming of the two, but in such ma
terials as Liberty satin or Indian CASH
mere circular skirts are wonderfully
effective and graceful.
Real butterflies. preserved by spe-
cial method to retain their coloring,
will be the snartest trimming for win
ter millinery. This original fashion
will be welcomed by all women, since
it will suit alike the modest or the ex-
travagant dress allowance. A flight of
red admirals, poised on a toque of law
ender tulle, will only cost their wearer
one shilling. On the other hand, floral
hat of bronze pansies will be increased
in price by S25 If four of the gorgeous
gold Croesus butterflies, from the Lit
tie Molucca islands, hover among the
velvet blossoms. The woman who can
afford TO pay any price for originality
may choose the fragile bronze and
cream cethosia leschenaulti. one OF the
rarest butterflies. or may order some
exquisite foreign specimens priced at
$50 apiece.
Zone of the prettiest butterflies to
employ In hat decoration is the purple
emperor" west end milliner said yes
terdav. Its charm lies in the fact
that il changes with every movement
of the wearer. If the butterflies are ar
ranged with outspread wings on
tooue of black tulle they are hardly
| distinsuishable from the dark back
| ground at a first glance. A sudden
! movement of the head will work a
transformation, however, and every
gauzy wing will fash into brilliant pur-
nile. The mother-of-pearl butterfly is
/ beautiful on a hat of pale green chiffon,
and another startling combination is a
tooue of black velvet roses trimmed
with the large Java vandepolli in
shades of black and saffron"