The daily morning journal and courier., 1907-09-05
TIE EXPERT BLENDER'S
 VALUABLE NOSE. He Guards It With the Greatest of
 Care. NO GOOD NOSE NO FEES How the Perfume Blender Does His Interesting
 Work.
NO GOOD NOSE NO FEES

In no other business does the nose play such a prominent part as it does in perfume blending. The blender guards his nose as he would his life, for any small defect in his sense of smell would cause him to be unable to blend even the most common Of odors. Few blenders smoke; most of them do not drink, and some even avoid walking on streets where they might pass cheese or tea stores or any store which might effect their acute sense of smell
 Perfume blending is interesting work for new perfumes are made every day and the experimenting the blender does sometimes lasts for months when trying for some new. odor. There are days in the laboratory, however, when the blender must stop work on ac- count of the dull headaches caused by the odors of the materials with which he is working, such as civette and oil of yiang.
 Most of the flower odors come from Grasse, France, and are in the form of pomade The pomade is washed in alcohol, which takes out the odor and leaves the unscented grease to be used for soap. This is called flower wash ing and the odor mixed with alcohol is crude perfume. The washings are blended with various essential oils and f1xatives such as musk, ambergris and civette. to make perfume.
 Nearly every country on the globe contributes some article used in the manufacture of perfume. From France usually come such flower pom ades as rose, violet, cassie, which is used extensively i'll violet odors, tube rose, earnation, jasmine and jonquil. The best lavender comes from Eng land, musk and civette from China, and yiang from the Philippine Islands. Most of the essential oils come from Germany with the exception of oil of rose wood, which comes from South America The rose and jasmine odors are used extensively in making per fume of nearly every name.
 | When making perfume having a IIOWGI IulllG SuGll clo Iell llutiOllp AOGG VI violet the blender tries to initiate as nearly as possible the natural odor of the flower. Violet perfume is the most difficult to make, and the blend- CTS, even the men who have been blending for ten or more years, are unable to initiate the wonderful nat ural odor of the flower
 In making new odors or duplicating the celebrated French colors the blender picks out the various ingredi- ents and the odors which predomin- ate. French perfumes sell as high as 1 $5 an ounce, and good blenders who are capable of learning the ingredi- ents used in a certain perfume, after experimenting, can make a duplicate which can be sold in this country at less than half the price of the French odor Blenders who can do this com mand high salaries and some are paid as high as $10,000 year. From $2,- 900 to s5,0O0 is what the majority get. It takes years of practical work as an assistant perfumer and a general knowledge of chemistry before man | is able to hold the position of blend- CT The assistants work is to at tend to the flower washing under the direction of the blender and he also l learns considerable while working up the raw material which the blender uses
 Most of the odors have standard names and are used universally, but in the last few years new odors and names are crowding the old standard perfumes to the wall. The most pop ular perfumes on the market now are odors come upon by accident by the blenders during their experiments. Some time ago in an eastern labora- tory. writes Frank j. Sullivan in the Chicago Tribune. perfume blender was experimenting with various flower washes and essential oils when he happened to detect with his superior sense of smell an odor entirely new and fragrant. It was not what he had started after, but the peculiar odor was so different from anything he ever had smelled before he decid-