The Washington times., 1907-01-31

HINTS FROM AN EXPERT ON
HOW TO MAKE \ COAT At HONE
Details the Amateur DresSmaker Usually Fails on
Because of Lack of Experience

Many a woman who is successful in
making dresses from the light weight
materials. is deferred from attempting
anything like a coat suit because OF heE
lack Of knowledge as TO the little de-
tails necessary TO turn out a well fin
isned garment.
IL must be remembered that II is the
details that count ia the we'll finished
Jacket. and each part must receive due
attention. Careful basting and press
ing are OF the greatest Importance Both
Of these the amateur is likely TO slight,
because she does not know. and thinks
them trivial matters.
First the cloth must be spOnged 70
protect IL from spOtting. and 10 shrink
IT, so that 1t may not be affected by the
dampness after the garment is made
up. AS a rule arrangements can be
made where tae cloth is bought TO have
II sponged without any additional cost
II it has TO be done at home, open the
cloth on a large table, and cover the
entire surface with a piece OF muslin,
saturated with warm water. Roll It up
with the muslin inside, and after al
lowing IL to remain so Tor eight or ten
hours hang the material over a clothes
line, and LET it stay until perfectly dry.
II is unnecessary to press the cloth at
this stage. as it must be done later when
the garment Is finished.
Now. when the cloth is ready for cut
ting. II must be asceFtained whether il
has an up and down This is done by
rubbing the hand over the cloth: when
there is nap. all the pieces OF the pat
tern must be laid on so that il runs
toward the bottom. II will be more
satisfactory and prevent any waste OF
material, II before cutting the Jacket
or coat from the cloth. a muslin lining
Is cut basted. and fitted. Then, hav-
ing a perfecs hitting pattern, one can
proceed With more confidence.
II the cloCh Is double width. leave IL
In the original iengthWise crease through
the center. 50 that the two right sides
are together, and then proceed TO pin
the pattern on. Three-quarters OF an
inch should be allowed for seams. With
a piece OF tailor's chalk mark the dis
lance OF the seam on each piece OF cloth.
thls gives sae sewing line on one side.
Mark the center front collar turning.
pockets. nc. with the chalk. To mark
Il on the other side. take a double thread
OF basting cotton. and baste through the
double thickness OF cioth with one long
and two short stitches. Leave the long
stitches a little loose. and when the
pieces have all been basted, cut the long
stitches, and pull the pieces apart
Threads will be in both pieces, and each
side VIII Dc marked exactly alike.
For Stout Figure.
Except for a very stout figure. in hip
length or eton Jackets. cut the entire
front OF canvas which has been previ-
ously shruEA. Basic the canvas to the
wrong side Cf the cloth, then haste them
together along the sewing line at the
under arm and shoulder seam II the
canvas extends beyond the cloth, cut
II on. but do not attempt 10 force the
fullness over the cloth. After II has
been tried on and necessary alterations
made, rip the cloth and canvas apart
and seam up the darts separately Be
fore putting them together stitch on the
canvas a piece OF shrunken hairc.oth,
about one inch smaller all around. and
slope this 20 rounded point about four
inches above the waist line. In place OF
taking a dart TO make Il 1T over the
bust cut out a ~" shaped piece draw
the two edges together and stitch the
canvas.
over this joining. which necessarily is
very rough. catstitch a piece OF lining
and also n binding around the edge OF
the hair cloth. The hair cloth Is seWed
10 The canvas BY padding stitches, In
rows one and One-half inches apart;
these are nothing more than a series
OF basttng stitches. The canvas is now
coat and II should be sewed I'm with the
cloth at the shoulder and under arm
seams. the curves OF the seams nicked.
and then dressed open. so that they
will lie fiat.
Unless the figure is very well rounded