New-York tribune., 1907-04-18
PARISEASTER HOLIDAYS
Enjoyed By Thousands of Visitors
Including Many FOREIGNERS.

Paris, April 5-The thirty thousand visitors
including an exceptionally large contingent OF
Americans. who poured into Paris this Easter
By excursion trains from all parts Of the world
found tho capital an ideal place for a holiday.
The festival fell ten days too early for tie
;ong avenues Of chestnut trees which form the
cltys crown and glory 10 be in the fun splen-
sor % their rich foliage, but one here and there.
= tie Gothic gardens Of the great cathedral,
IN tic Champs Elysees or in the Italian gar
dens C the Luxembourg. showed what the
streets ana parks would be Ike after the first
April showers.
Foreigners t-ooped IN thousands to the lead
ing churches 10 witness the lighting OF the
new and sacred fire. the procession and bene-
diction OF the triangular candle. and the adora-
zion Of sacred relics. For three days. the whole
city was perfumed with incense, and the great
Bourbon Of Notre Dame. the largest and sweet
80 sounding bell in the world. whose tone has
been meowed by the centuries it has hung
IN its lofty tower. rung at noon on Easter.
the only day in the year in which its voice is
ever heard. The light breezo carried the sound
20 distant parts Of the city. and it rolled down
the seine Valley 10 the heights OF Passy and
beyond
The recent action OF the prefect in closing
the morgue against the curiosity Of idle visitors
leaving il accessible only TO those who could
say they came 10 identify a particular body.
disappointed a great number of persons Brake
after brake drove up 30 its doors in order that
fhe tourists might at least see for themselves
what the little building looked like and note
its position on the bridge linking the two
islands OF the Cite and OF St. Louis, which con-
stitUte the most ancient parts OF Paris. with
the resi- OF the city on the banks Of the Seine.
But II the mOrgue was closed another Partisan
fixture opened Easter and attracted
a vast concourse OF people. This was the
Gingerbread Fair which has been of annual oc-
currence in the French capital since the year
629 For nearly thirteen centuries the wide
Place de la Nation, near the Vincennes Gate.
has welcomed the arrival at each successive
Easter Of the little booths and stalls with the
primitive theatre. the acrobats in artless satin
and tinsel, and the stacks OF brown spice cake
which In no sense resembles gingerbread as
known in America.
But the Gingerbread Fair is no longer what
II was In the early days Of the republic you
could gauge the glory and worth Of the popular
hero Of the day by his presence in gingerbread
st the fair. Thiera and Gambetta. and before
their time Philippe Egaiite, or the First Ma
poleon, all figured in gingerbread at the fair,
where their carefully moulded effigies labelled
in pink and white sugar had immense vogue.
To-day the only portrait cake at the fair repre-
EtllH a ClALlSllg ulou6ilcA plSs on WHICH lAC
purchaser Is expected 10 allow his name to be
written IN coiored sugar. To the foreign visitor
whose knowledge OF fairs is limited. the scene
on the long boulevard IS amusing enough and
the modern electric roundabout, with its
dolphins and its pigs. its boats. rocking in
realistic fashion II on stormy sea, are all
filed with laughing and screaming jewellers.
staid Rrttons ard mercurial Southerners take
their turn with the foreigners in the swings and
roundabouts.
But IL the fair attracted vast numbers OF
visitors, the steeplechasing at the pretty Au-
teuil racecourse in the corner OF the Bois de
Bouogne drew even greater crowds. 1t was
known that the President OF the republic in
tended TO be present TO see the second race Of
the season run, and long before o'clock the
fribunes and the paddock were invaded. On the
opposite side Of the course. where a long stretch
Of greensward accommodates tens OF thousands
OF spectators, who ask only standing room and
access 70 the little betting booths, sea OF
heads and at critical moments in the racing
enthusiasm here knew no bounds With a July
sun pouring it's rays from cloudless sky the
tourists were easily recognized by their im-
prorptu toilet; almost much English as
French was talked. and at exciting finish
one heard from all parts OF the course intensely
eager shouts OF Come on. Neuil.' Come on,
Sphinx that brought a smile to the faces OF
the Parisians.
After the toll and excitement Of the long day
OF sightseeing, exhausted travellers dropped in
the evening into chairs outside the cafes and
discussed their doings while slipping 'sirops" and
emptying books. From the Madeleine to the
Baste the three miles OF boulevard seemed
transformed into one endless cafe, where sun
burned foreigners, sitting at innumerable little
tables called for American drinks and enjoyed
the unwonted spectacle Those Parislans who
spent their holiday in the capital instead OF fee
ing to the country found themselves ousted out
OF their accustomed chairs in their favorlte
cafes In favor Of thirsty tourists. Up and down
there passed the usual procession OF "Savroches,"
or street Arabs singing songs, and picturesque
pedlers. distributing a few peanuts free, and
then returning a few minutes later IN the hope
os selling two cents worth OF the deIicacy.
There was no end Of mechanical toys and illus
trated postcards hawked by "camelots." and
cheap embroidery offered for sale by Arnlenians
and Bulgarians IN native costumes.
II is this outside habit OF Paris that probably
appeals most strongly to visitors from other
countries where the cafe as it exists in Paris is
unknown. II is certain that by comparison with
the cafe. the music halls and theatres at this
holiday season had only mediocre success.
Theatres and music halls be found every
where; II Is only in Paris that hundreds OF
thousands OF persons are content to spend a
long evening sitting on 'terrasse." I'm front of
a restaurant. watching the passersby and
slipping unending glasses OF coffee or books OF
Hight ale. And dawn, not far. off when the
last OF the visitors made their way TO their
hotels TO snatch a short nap before starting on
The return Journey. c. B.