Los Angeles herald., 1907-08-15
Society,"

EVEN IN town, however, lightweight
suit of linen or pongee looks more appro-
pirate, and unless one is forced to spend
a great part of the summer in the city
or make frequent trips for business or
pleasure, a-lightweight suit, worn with a
thin white bodice, is really the best
style. Shirt-waist gowns of India silk,
pongee and foulard are by no means out
of favor, however, and as they are al
together the coolest dresses that can be
made, they are best for the woman who
spends the week-ends only in the coun-
try.
The old term shirt-waist dress is still
made use of, as it really describes this
particular kind of gown; but while shirt
waists tend to grow simpler, the silk
shirt-waist dresses are. If anything, built
on more elaborate lines than was the case
last year, but retain the fine separate
yoke of lace or lingerie, and continue to
be made up unlined or else with only
sheer lawn foundation, boned and fitted
only as much as is necessary for the
figure, the ideal figure. of course, re-
quiring no boning, and if no lining is de-
sired it may be dispensed with.
One great advangtae in linen suit
over a silk gown is that at the end of
long, hot day in an automobile or train
the dress may be put in the tub and
washed, whereas a silk has to be cleaned,
a week at the very least before the dress
is returned
On the other hand. silk retains it's
freshness far longer than linen, and does
not show every particle of dust and dirt
so that the points for and against each
are about even and the only possible way
of arriving at a satisfactory decision is
to order gown or many gowns of each
description and then be prepared for
whatnVer ri
Dark blue is perhaps the most satisfac-
tory of all shades for travelling or for any
occasion that necessitates a good ser
viceable color, but If the deeper shades
are unbecoming there are any number of
lighter tints from which to select from a
bright electric color to a soft Japanese
shade. that is becoming to blonde and
brunette alike. Bordering on the latter
shade an exceedingly smart linen cos
tune was made up with half-fitted cut
away jacket and full walking-length
skirt The coat, which fell not quite to
the knees, was but semi-fitted in the
back, with loose box front and instead
of collar, revers or cuffs there were bands
of embroidery finishing the coat, worked
in the exact shade of linen thread. The
loose kimono sleeves were in one piece
with the coat itself, and were, If any
thing, shorter than elbow length, and
were finished off like the coat with bands
of embroidery worked direct upon the
material, while over each seam was a
narrow band of the embroidery. The
skirt was a plain but unusually full cir
cular model.
Lingerie and lace collar and cuffs are
not so much in vogue as was the case
last summer, but still they could not be
said to be altogether out of favor. The
more severe linen and pongee jackets,
however. which are quite evidently de-
signed for simple wear, are finished off
with straps or with collar and cuffs of
the same material or else with col
lar of velvet the same shade as the dress
or a trife darker in tone, and these are
put on in such way that they can
readily be taken out and replaced when
the suit is laundered
There is very little difference in the
models for long-coat sleeves and for
those of three-quarter length. Both
styles are finished off with plain rows
of stitching or some strap design. or else
have turned back cuffs piped with silk,
linen or velvet. The kimono sleeve, made
in one piece with and forming part of
the waist itself, is seen in the elbow
sleeves, but is not often satisfactory for
three-quarter length. and had best not be
attempted with full-length sleeve, save,
perhaps, with an extremely elaborate
jacket, when. if long sleeves are especial
ly desired, cuffs of lace or embroidered
linen may be added from the elbows at
tached to the sleeve itself by a loose
cap or lining.
Instead of having three-piece costume,
the effect of a long fitted jacket may be
obtained in a two-piece dress made with
rather a severe bodice having a long fit
ted skirt piece added at the belt. One
such model was made up in light blue
linen trimmed with inserted medallions
of cluny lace.
The bodice, fastening in front, had
little square yoke of white hand-em-
broidered polka dots, a stiff turned-down
embroidered linen collar with a little lace
jabot, giving the necessary touch of
white against the face. The three-quart-
er length sleeves were gathered into
light cuff just below the elbow, their
only trimming consisting of two round
medallions of the lace in the upper part
of the sleeve and the white polka dots on
the cuff
The skirt had two rows of narrow tucks
just below the knees below which a row
of lace medallions set quite apart en-
circled the skirt while below this again
was another double row of tucks, each
tuck an inch in width.
The three-inch belt of the material fit
ted well to the figure, fastening in front
with two large pearl buttons. while at
tached 10 this belt was bias skirt which
was long enough to just cover the hips,
and with the waist to give the effect of
a medium-length jacket. In a dark
shade of tan or blue this style of dress
would be most serviceable for travelling
or for a long motor trip, for the newt
able white shirt waist or guimpe are
dispensed with, while a fresh white col
lar and jabot would keep the form look
| ing smart for a fairly long time.
Still another way to obtain long, grace
full lines is to have a bodice of lace over
which the material is laid in long straps,
which are carried down over the skirt
and give the effect of a long jacket. For
an afternoon costume this model is sin
gularly effective.
Then there are the lace coats, which
are apparently just as much in favor as
ever, and are worn in just the same way
as last year, sometimes with linen and
again over an elaborate gown of chiffon
and embroidery. 1t is not necessary for
the gown itself to be trimmed with the
same pattern or even the same kind of
lace from which the coat is made to nave
the two be effective together, but natural
! ly the costume is more comDlete If coat