davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29
Shapes in Millinery

7 ARGE hats of the Rembrandt
- shapes are ultra fashionable.
They are worn off the face, and
so form becoming setting for it.
In order to meet the proportions
of some of these hats, which are
huge, the hairdressers ale making
the effects of the head as large as
possible, not high. but wide.
Curls and braids play an impor-
tant part in the new coiffures.
Nowadays, when trying on hats,
one very often receives certain
punches of false hair, putfs or even
coronet braids.
These are adjusted to ill in the
sides and back, and not only make
the hat becoming, but the woman
more attractive.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29
The Seasons Shoulders

nROOFlNG shoulders are not
- likely to obtain much success in
the garments intended for street
wear.
The Paris models so far shown in
this cut give too contracted an ap-
pearance in the back to appeal to
the American taste.
They are likely to obtain in even
ing wraps, because a looser and
broader effect can be secured in
such garment, which this season
must be of nature to slip on and
off easily, as well as not to crush
the large sleeves worn beneath.
Broad shoulders are the proper
thing, for the tailored garment, in
both suits and separate coats in
tended for day wear.
It is in these styles of garments
that the restrictions of the Ameri-
can taste are likely to prevail over
the French fashion indications.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29

fact should not be forgotten when
sponging and pressing, otherwise
there will be a shlny streak on the
surface of the material.
For the elderly woman, and also
for the woman whose back is not
perfectly fiat and straight, the
shoulder seams should have more of
a tendency toward the back of the
armholes. A young, straight fig
ure may have the shoulder seams on
perfectly straight lines.
All shirtwaist seams should be fit
ted with the arms crossed behind
the back of the head, as veil as in
some of the reaching positions.
A Slew that is not the necessary
length from the armhole to the ell
bow can never be comfortable
one. 1t will drag and in many cases
make the back of the blouse draw
and wrinkle between the shoulders.
Dressmakers who find it difficult
to press curved seams will find a
rolling pin good pressing board, if
a soft, clean cloth be wrapped
around it.
When putting a steel or whale
bone into bodice, bend them slight
ly at the points where they will
touch the waist line before putting
them in the casing. You will find
that the bodice will fit very much
better.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29
The Home Dressmaker's Problems

w len cutting out sleeves, to
" avoid the disaster of cutting
10th for the same arm, fold the ma
terial either face to face or back to
back. Place the pattern ON it and
cut them togo -er.
A proper pair Of sleeves is bound
Il be the result.
So many home dressmakers over
look the fact when sewing on a col
lar that the neck Of the bodice or
blouse should be slightly smaller
than the Lase Of the collar band and
the bodice hotched here end there
while putin the collar ON.
By doing this wrinkles are
avoided.
Always shrink Il new braid before
'ewing it toa skirt. In shortening
skirt pattern always fold a pleat
across the middle of the pattern.
Never shorten from the top or the
bottom Of a skirt, or you will have
l. wretchedly hanging skirt.
Never hold a skirt in your lap
while basting it. 1t is most impor-
tant lat it be kept fiat. 1t should
b. placed on table and basted from
top to bottom with small, even
stitches. The seams should be kept
perfectly level and straight.
In making ur any lateral with
nap. remember that the nap
should always run downward. This
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29
New Lace Coats

q NE of the prettiest { the new
~ lace coats SO generally worn
this season was of Irish lace. APP
piled around the edge of the coat
skirt were cretonne roses, cut from
an all-over pattern of cretonne.
In each corner was a pompadour
cretonne basket overlooking with
roses and tied with ribbons.
This would be an effective treat
ment for a net instead of lace
coat, with the cretonne motifs out
lined in soutache.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29
For Elderly Women

The dressing of the neck is a
point for the most serious
consideration. To the elderly
woman it is a crucial test, and
needs careful treatment. In the
majority of cases something soften
ing Is required Immediately next to
the face, and something light in
color, A severe line is unbecoming,
except to the freshest of faces.
The soft null ties, with the at
tractlye embroidered or lace ends,
should have a prominent part in {be
elderly woman's neckwear. Besides,
they are unusually smart this sea-
son, and are worn by the young as
well as the elderly.
The bonnet and hat are much
discussed questions for the elderly
woman. The bonnet tied under the
chin Is entirely out of fashion. In
Its place is the bonnet tooue. which
Is not only becoming, but entirely
suitable as well.
Stitching is an important factor
IN the trimming of these suits. In
some cases it is quite as elaborate
as braiding. A great deal of SOU
tache braid is used.
Broadcloth always makes a hand
Some tailor Sit, especially for one
that must serve the purpose of best
1rock. Homespun, serge and cheviot
make the incest possible materials
for suits Cor everyday wear.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29
Smart Tailored Suits

T Z smart girl wears with her
tailored shirt slecve-links and
stickpin TO match. They may be
b,.ght in set, and are really very
J city. They are shown in jade,
nIuethvSt coral and in all sorts of
settings.
Another requisite Is the French
handkerchief TO carry in the pocket
If the tailored shirts. They are made
IL linen and silk and come in many
clever plaid effects.
There is :. decided novelty in belts
known as a shaped linen belt. They
IRE made of a good quality of linen,
closely stitched, embroidered in
[ -iental colors and shaped so as to
fiji the waist closely.
Long mannish locking stocks of
viite linen, pique or duck are ex-
tr,mcly popular and smart for wear
with the tailored shirt.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29
Colored Nets

OLORED nets will take the place
to a considerable extent of
chiffon for the construction of thu
separate waist.
They are more satisfactory than
chiffon because the costume idea of
making the waist of O different
fabric, but of the same color as the
skirt and coat, can thus be carried
out at a price which will appeal to
women of moderate means.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29
Separate Waists
ANCY and plain silks.
L Linen, figured and plain.

r ANCY and plain silks. ~
1 Linen, figured and plain.
The lightweight and non-shrink.
able woolens and fannels.
Lace and net, in white, cream and
dyed.
Sheer cottons, elaborate with en-
broidery, in combination Of eyelets
and solid effects.
There is a sentiment that the col
ored waist is to gain more promi-
nence than it has ever had. This Is
because of the favor of the one cos
tune idea, meaning the one colored
scheme from the shoulder ia the
toes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29
F or Mourning Wear

Under the best Of circum-
~ stances the wearing of it re-
orires knowledge and judicious
handling.
Appropriate jewelry made gun
metal and black euanc, only s'.ould
be worn.
There is a decided line between
the wearing Of mourning d the
wearing Of black.
The latter is so universally worn
nowadays by women that j. rath-
er confusing to know just where and
how the line is drawn. Cor ex-
ample, uncut yelvets are ing
other varieties are not.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29

n LAIN offered all materials from veet and silks to
- and broadclotls.
The Of coo all the rich the
dyer's blues wnered tones castor
the dark and the bronze browns may be SAID to pdom
talk of plum and violet shades
These untowrd but 1t probable that
they viii be launched with the beginning OF the
that they will be short-ived
In other words the coos will themselves out by their in
tensty.
Already Widespread that they viii become
hey become fashio
The blues the oo which the
be placed
fabrics the prevalence of
stripes These shown alone in the practical materials but also
the dressier grades
results secured by combining the different
Importers and mo be confident that velvet is to
and lovely
striped popular They weight.
supple in quality and show both close and designs ,
of the cloths COLOR alternating
straight Frequently these chevon are built of fine stripes
Stimulating soutache.
They may of
show lines of old Sevre blue ctron between the
regular stripes.
long blouses,
with the long miten-ike cuffs.
dropped and
the back than onehalf inch
deal of colored ue both
in white and the dyed laces.
very trimmed except
broidery or lace nsets with bands of the material.
In the illustrations given the frok embroidered silk vole
white, trimmed with bands of tucked silk and Irish lace
The of the shade delft blue with of white
corded silk he pumes
The second worked bronze CLOTH supple with
bands dyed match the The lace yoke gives
touch. The hat is of black velvet.
The third illustration shows brown broadclot worked
the tiny of pink The hat is of brown felt with
trimmed with hand embroidery and
None of these models will difficulty the homo
dressmaker
depends new
Partisan touches the net and lace embroidered bands
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29
Braids Fashionable

MANY braids are used.
~. They take the form of SOU
tache, wide and heavy effects in
fancy braids Of monotone and com.
bination colors.
Wide braids of heavy silk con.
struction are used as band Trim
mings upon many of the new CLOTH
skirts, particularly those Of q solid
color.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29

A PRETTY way to trim chlld,s
1 \ bretelle frock is to add a deco
Of '1 roosettes Of i,e vide white satin
ribbon and of black velvet ribbon
on each bretelle, with a straight
band of ribbons across.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29
The Art of
Basting

~ The pattern is often
blamed for an ill-fttins
waist or bad-setting skirt when the
fault is all in the basting.
The proper removal of the threads
IS as important as their proper put
ting in.
Have you ever watlned a novice
catch the end of thread, and, pull
ing the seam in a tirht bunch. use
all her strength to break the., .read2
Have you noticed the seam after
ward2
If it were silk, lawn or otlcr thin
materials there were probably holes
all the way up, or the threads pulled
all across the breadth.
If velvet, the nap was hopelessly
marred, or the materials were so
unused and creased that only a
damp cloth and strenuous pressing
would remove the defects.
Basting threads should be clipped
at intervals of three or four inches,
and each length carefully removed
without wrinkling or creasing the
goods in the slightest degree.
Clipped in this way, the thread
will yield to the least pulling. An
ivory or bone stiletto is a good i'm
plement for this work, and should
always be kept in the workbasket.
Where straight and bias edges are
brought together great care must
be taken not to stretch the bias edge
or hold it too much, causing it to
pucker in an unsightly way.
The breadths should be straight
ened by smoothing down and across
the threads of the fabric. This will
bring the bias edge in correct posi-
ton. 1t should then be pinned at
intervals of three or four inches,
and .afterward basted in a three
eighth-inch seam.
The stitches should be quite short,
as when long hastings ar used the
goods are apt to slip out of posi-
ton in stitching on the machine.
In basting a waist, the seams
should be put together with the
greatest of care.
Notches should be brought to-
gether and pinned, so that there is
no possibility of holding in one side
more than the other, thus keeping
the parts in their true position.
In basting, it is always best to use
as fine a thread and needle as pos
sible, especially for silks, velvet or
fine sheer materials. A coarse bast-
ing will leave a mark of tiny holes
in the fabric after the stitches are
removed.
Velvet garments are easily ruined
by coarse basting.
In basting seams. of any sort
never use the running stitch, a. in
so doing one will invariably pucker
the goods.
Take one stit'N at a time, and
that short one.
1t is not at all uncommon to see
a novice in sewing haste up seam,
and finding a difference of an inch
or two on one side, recklessly take
the scissors and cut off the extra
length.
The pattern is then blamed for an
ill-titting garment when the fault
lies entirely with the unskilled bast-
ing.
Many persons in putting on braid
are tempted to stitch II on the ma
chine without basting.
This is a great mistake, as the
machine is almost sure to hold the
|. aid too tightly. causing the good,
to draw and spelling the effect.
Nothing is more ugly than trim
ming not properly applied, nothing
will give garment a more home
made appearance.
The success of any gown depends
more upon the detail of its con-
struction than on costly materials
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29


All tho new foil suits are trimmed
with buttons. The coats are fasten-
ed double or single breasted with
them, and many have side Sits in
the back, decorated with half a doz-
en- rows of. buttons. These buttons
are of the same material as the suit,
or of velvet, and sometimes are set
in ring of metal.
A dress of pale blue null, made
with yoke and undersleeves Of
white handkerchief lawn and valen-
ciennes, has a girdle of deep rose
pink liberty satin. The hat to be
worn with this gown is leghorn,
draped with brown tulle, and trim
med in front with two deep pink
roses. A pink parasol to match is
carried.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29

The sshalo" ening head dress is
the latest fashion to be accepted
by the feminine sex. 1t is merely a
large thin ring fastened to a comb
in the back. The hair must be
dressed high in front and with the
Grecian knot in the back, and the
comb is fastened in this knot, the
ring lowering lightly above the hair
at the sides and front.
Yellow and ochre shades, which
gre still popular, are by far the
hardest color to wear, for most
women. A person having clear,
dark complexion, would look charm
ing in a pale lemon chiffon or
ninon gown, embroidered and trim
med with silver and fine yalen-
ciennes lace.
The motor hats are prettier than
over, and are vastly becoming. They
TT closely to the head, and have
strings to pin firmly in the back.
A soft hat which can be bent down
is just as seryiceable and prettier
than the motor hat. Many such hats
are worn, and also sailors, with 9
veil tied over them and pinned at
the nape Of the neck.
"a metal belt shows ipterlocking
rings with tiny enan1eled flower in
the center of each. The clasp ia
formed by Tia stem and foliage Of
q single fever.
Laces dyed to match the costume
is q fad that will undoubtedly re-
main in favor for q time. All the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29
Fashions Latest FancieS

heavy varieties of lace are used, but
the valenciennes is now taking the
lead.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-09-29
The Newest Effects in Lace

HEAVY laces particularly good this season.
Fashion the hlet, soutache
cuny and Irish laces, used in combination effect
Both wide bands and separate motifs used.
The motifs frequently divsbe into six parts, and be
applied the fancy of the individual designer.
The bands will be prominent this
that they particularly adapted the ornamenatcn of
the latest styles in and wraps.
Metal thread promises be the leading in the band
laces.
They shown in gold, silver and aluminium.
used foundation for white black and coorel
embroidery.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1907-07-15

Judge Ardman maintains that the law
under which saloon licenses are is
sued is unconstitutional and has APP
pealed a case on This ground 10 the
supreme court Of the United States.
Constable James ~ Smith left last
night for Silver city on a business
+ mission.
Frank Hubbeil left last night FOR
Magdalena u his sheep ranches in
SOcurro county.
Mr.. and Mrs. -. G. Grant and Mr..
and Mrs. D.. a. Macpherson left last
night for Belen.
Mrs. George Kimball and Clarence
T.. Kimball Of Bisbee, Ariz., were
among the Alvarado guests yesterday.
-. r. Hoskins. cashier of the a
Miguel National bank OF Las Vegas,
and accompanied by L. b.. Rapp. Of the
firm OF Las Vegas architects, and Mrs.
Rapp and child, were al the Alyarado
Yesterday.
Mr.. Robert Hopkins, untll recently
associated with the firm Of H.. :. Lith-
gov a. Co. book binders, has accepted
q position with the j. II. O'Rielly co.
druggists, and will take charge Of tho
soda fountain az that place.
The American Lumber company
band rendered a delightful concert last
evening Ia Robinson park, which was
listened TO by hundreds of people. De
rector Fred X. Ellis' trombone solo,
my old Kentucky Home" was So
beautifully done that Mr.. Ellis had 40.
respond to an enthusiastic encore ana
play il over again. The concert WAS
one OF the best ever given by he pop
ular band.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1907-07-15
GOOD CROWD SEES
THE pc R SIAN
HONEYMOON"
Clever Stage People Please a
Packed House in New Bill at
the Casino at Sunday Per-
t0rmanCe,

Albuquerque theatergoers are show
Ing "a proper appreciation of The har /
work that the members of the Boston
Ideal Comic Opera company are do
ing at the Casino this month to please
the public. A packed house last night
generously npplauded the initial per-
Torrance Of "A Persian Honey
moon" which was put on yesterday
for the half week run The masterly
way In which the troupe puts ON plays
which are radically different shows
that they are all true artists n give
an intelligent study to the various
parts. An the favoritcs did well last
night. Miss Crowley especially ~ The
Prince" making a hit Laura Moore
and the Burgessea. the Hawaiian belle
aud the other members of the east
wecr excellent and the new play will
prove "a drawing card until Thursday
when the follieklug old %favorite,
"pinnfore.' viii go on. Nh, burgess
SAYS that "pinaforc" ~ one of his beat
and as "pinaforc" always pleases, Il
VIII be doubly attractive AZ staged hy
the BOSTON Ideal people.
During the summer Kidney irrcgularltles
are often caused rs excessiNe drinking or
being uverhehfrd Attend a. the Kidneys
az once hy using F"leys kidney cure. T.
w. oHieiiy Go n
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1907-07-15
Don't WAIT.
Tat, Advantage of Albuquerque Cit
rrn's IsNITrcncs Beiorc It's
Too IHfe.

When the back begins to ache.
Don't wait until backachc becomes
chronic.
Tul serious kidney troubles develop.
TIll urinary troubles destroy nights
rest
Profit by an Albuquerque citizens
experience.
Mrs q. A. henson. ~ 3oS Bacn
avenue. Albuquerque. y. NJ. SAYS n
never had haekache Co speak of until
,sug here five months ago. whem 30
set iu and became au almost contin-
uaI annoyance ~ I would stand long.
sud when I would wash my back. vas
$50 painful as 10 seemed 90 kll me.
The persistent aching made me so
nervous at times that I could hardly
control myself a friend and neigh
Dor recommended Deans Kidney
PILLS Co me, so I procured q box I
bad not used more han half ~ them
before the distress in ms back had
ended and I was relieved uf headache.
au ANNOYANCE which had distressed
me a great deal Vow if notice any
arn 20 hackache. I immediately app
peal tu Deans kidney PILLS and a. few
doses suffice Co disnrl every iudIea-
.Inn 90 the trouble
Fnr sale b. al dealers Price GU
cents Fuster-Mnhurn ra Uurrsra.
n n. soie aeents Tor the United
States
Remember the name-noaus-and
take 40 other.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1907-07-15
ORDER GOES IN FOR
STEEL FOR NEW
SHOPS
Structural Material for New
Santa Fe Buildings at San
BernardinO Expected to Be
on the Way Soon.

Structural steel for the immense
machine shops and the new round
house to be erected by the Santa +.
In san ~Bernardino. has been ordered
Storekeeper |. J. Custer having SEM
the order to the Santa Fe's purchasing
department al Chicago, where Il viii
be delivered to the United States Steel
corporation. and the statement Is made
that within ninety days the steel viii
be delivered To the railroad company
The estimated cost Of the new shops Is
S166.g20. divided as follows: Mater
ial. S139, 1855; and construction. $27,-
1876. This does not include the ma
chinery hal viii be installed, but
, simply the cost Of the building. The
cost of the roundhouse will De $50
SIS. divided as follows: Material,
500, $50; construction. S49,4S5. This
makes a grand total Of $31I,335 20 be
expended In that line alone To say
nothing OF the big viaduct and the ten
miles of trackage Ia be laid in the new
yards. which. in themselves, viii
evolve an enormous outlay
Trainmaster Payson Ripley of the
Rio Grande division spent Sunday In
the city,
T.. T.. Ban. Of Winslow. division en-
Rineer of the Albuquerque division,
was here yesterday.
-
Samuel Blair, with the Santa Fe al
III paso, was In the city yesterday.
-
George O. Perkins. superintendent
Of telegraph on the Mexican Central
railway. was In Albuquerque ycster-
day, returning to the city OF Mexico
from his old home in Pennsylvania.
superintendent W. X Ettcr OF tho
rio Grande division. left last night for
san Marcial on his private car al
tached TO No. O.
G. w. H%oisington, yardmaster In the
local Santa Re yards, leave this morn
ing for Little Rock, Ark, whcr" nc
viii become trainmaster FOR the Chi
cago, Rock Island and Pacific Railway
company.
Arthur Clements, a railroad man
from Newton. Kas.. registered az the
Alvarado last night.
Tuesday will be Santa Fe nay day
and the local employees are getting
ready to make a noise like "a million
aire.
Engine No. 4GO FOR service on thu
Rio Gande division. and No. $50.
which has a run On the Grand Cam
tan branch, were turned ont of the
shops yesterday after a general oVcr-
.haui.
H
Division Superintendent r J. Glib
sou ct the Albuquerque division LETT
last night on his private ear attached
to No. I for his headquarters ln Wins
low.
The 1850 class engines. built fpr
fast freight ana equipped with the
frtuklsh looking W~aldschuctt valve
gear, are being extensively used iu
the passenger service on the New Mex
iUu division out of this citN.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1907-07-15
N KNIGHT.
. A MILRpMN.

7 %. ititlaish i"mnlliffF
40 knights uf Culumhus are rH-
uusafed Co meet az the nHilnis of a.
HnrIefs Ht N.1n This tNoudaXn MORN
Iug tn attend the funeral of nur dee
ceased brother William A. HeaVeu.
Hua fl march in a hndN accompanying
tht remains to the church nf thr im-
mHIuIffr Conception. where solemn
mass viii De- celebrated
g. ~ MrANNA &C. ~
l. r.. DELANEY Serv
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1907-07-15

Washington. July 14-Now Mex
leo. Showers Monday. except fair ~
southwest portion; Tuesday parity
cloudy. showers IN north portion
storms In north portion Monday ana
probably Tuesday.
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1907-07-15
Fine Registered AngOTa Bucks
For Sale

have snmr tish rrade and registered
tfufhr Toe satF. ranEiuu in aEr fraw eighteen
fuunihs Co. fHnr fFHrs hlau snu1r high
Eradr Hnd raalsisfrd dars rHers EItrn "a
muulrafinn. 81 a. MaluAuN.
san Maurlaf. N~u Nrsiaa
Albuquerque morning journal. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1903-1926, 1907-07-15
LOCAL ITEMS OF INTEREST
TIIE WEATHER.

For the twenty-four hours ending
at 8 o'claek yesterday afternoon
Maximum temperature. S. MINI
mum GN southwest winds pattiy
cloudy.