The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-12-29
An Oriental Journey
L

signed for Christian subjugation. In
time these captives-called Janizaries
became the flower of the army, anc
were recruited from Christian youths
whose parents were Turkish subjects.
In The arrogance of their power they
were guilty of incredible RIGHTEOUSNESS
and cruelty. Sultans were deposed or
assassinated at their pleasure. But
their kettles went to the well once too
often, when Mahomet IT. exterminated
them IN 1926. An open rebeilion-the
sacred standard OF the prophet I'M
furlad-a rally by the regular troops
the bclching of artillery-a confiagra-
ton at their place of refuge-annihila-
ton. SO persisted a desDotism whose
rise and fall inevitably reminded us of
that ragedy al Cairos citadel.
Our brief sojourn fortunately includ-
ed the day when the order. popularity
known to tourists as the "Howling
Dervishes," holds its religious services.
Once more the Galata bi1usv, tneu All
oVercrowded, dirty ferry boat. with
passengers standing unprotected in a
drizzling rain. and we land on the
As!atic side of the 'BosphOrus, at Sou
tart. Carriages hurry us to an insig
nificant chapel. which we enter i'm
haste, to occupy wooden benches, of
which there are a few for visitors. In
the rectangle in the center of the build
ing the monks have begun their &c
centric devotions. On three sides of
the open space they sit in Turkish
fashion. all regarding the chief priest.
likewise seated in front of a shrine
on the remaining side. The light in
the room is DIM The monks are robed
and turbaned in somber gray and
black. They bend from side to side in
slow undulatory movements, as if they
all rnflnd hu cf
ing in low voice their weird monotones
might be incantations of witches. With
pallid features and fanatical looks. they
weave and sing, weave ana sing. weave
and sing, until the rhythm of the mo-
ton and the cadence of the voice take
possession of our consciousness. Oc-
casionally dervish breaks forth in a
recitative with intervals 50 dissonant.
and strains so mournful, the fascina-
ton is interrupted. but not broken. And
again the chant in unison begins, ris-
ing in pitch and intensity: wider and
wider extends the sweep of their bodies,
until our eyes can see nothing but
swaying forms. our ears hear only the
mysticism of their refrain. This cere-
mony proceeds for an hour or so, when
there is a diversion. The sick and
MANNED are brought in, of all ages,
from infancy upward. Lying prone
Will IGCSS Oll TIE liOOT. lIl6 CHIEF priest
walks upon their recumbent bodies
with a devotion that might indicate
they are steps to heaven. This, how
ever. is merely a healing rite as all
diseases are supposed to disappear I'M
der the magic of the priestly feet
Meanwhile thes-oscillations have not
ceased. The chanting is renewed with
increased zeal And the service con-
tinues until it reaches a grand eli
max in the very apotheosis of motion
and sound. II is to be noted. however
that these dervishes do not howl"
Their ceremonies are never ridiculous
or grOtesque-aIways dignified. No
photograph can convey a genuine i'm
preston. Not so, however, as to the
Dancing Dervishes." These curious
monks. who spin like a top, are faith
fully presented by the camera. On the
Pera side we witnessed their gyrations,
which are dizzying. but only to the OBJ
servers. They gradually increased their
speed until apparently they reached
perfect frenzy of motion. In reality,
when the signal was given. they stop
ped instantly, changed their robes, re-
placed their turbans and walked out
serenely. With them it is an exhibit
ton merely of the gymnastic feats a
thorough training win accomplish. .
w VIC NdbtOndl muSCuTls
With some misgivings we followed
our guide into the National Museum.
The morning was intensely cold, such
luxury as a heating plant not to be
anticipated, and a museum at best not
calculated to mellow ones disposition.
But what though the shivers crept up
and down our backs? Why complain if
stiffening feet beat a futile tattoo on
the pavement? Did we not still have
eyes to drink in the Wondrous beauty
of AleXander's tomb and the tomb of
the Weeping Women" In none but
recent books Off any will you find ref
creme to these comparatively late dis
coveries, the former having been ex-
cavated at Sidon only a few years
ago These fral productions are so
well kept, hardly a chip or blemish
IS found. The tomb of Alexander is
d mausoleum of marble, all in one solid
stone, with bas-reliefs continuously
around its four sides to boast the
progress of that conquering hero. Ev-
cry figure is projected clear and life
like-men and beasts, the Vanquished
bleeding under the horses of the vic
tors, all in endless procession. The
weeping women are isolated figures,
in every conceivable pose and express
sion indicative of grief. There is a
naturalness and grace about these
sculptures that entitle them to rank
among the finest of Grecian art. Again
and again we returned to admire their
delicate Notwithstanding reluctant
to depart.
The Mosaic mosque is not far from
the great triple walls built by Justinian
in the sixth century. These begin at
the Seven Towers, at the extreme
southwest quarter of STEAMBOAT, and ex-
tend northerly for a distance of five
miles TO the Golden Horn. From the
mosque we went through the nearest
of the ten or more gates, then followed
the line northward to the Romanus
Gate, where the Turks first entered the
city az their final triumphant assault
After riding along the deep moat, wide
enough to be used for gardening now,
and noting the massiveness of the
walls, thirty feet high. one can read
that thrilling chapter of daring ex-
ploits with enlightened comprehension
The turning point in the siege, and that
stra tagem which stands out in bold
al fnrF,