The daily morning journal and courier., 1907-05-08
THE FASHIONS.
VOGUE OF EMBROIDERY
New Features and New Designs of Unusual
 Artistic Effect.

at embroidery. This applies not only
 to the airy summer fabrics which al- ways require more or less embellish-
 ment of this order, but to the wools and silks, and to frocks for all occa- sions from the most ceremonious down to the outing or tramping suit,
 which is sure to have at least a chemisette or turnover collar of em-
 broidery.
 Handwork is, as it always is, at a premium, and the excessive vogue it
 has attained is responsible for a num-
 Der of odd combinations of totally
 different classes of stitches and of some wonderfully clever combinations
 of lace braiding, and hand embroid- cry.
 The pinafore styles admit of some fascinating uses of the more delicate
 forms of embroidery, and the increas-
 ing daintiness of the lingerie waist,
 which, in spite of dire prognostica-
 tions as to it's speedy elimination from
 the fashion list, is more in favor than
 ever has given excuse for more and
 yet more exquisite specimens of needle
 work.
 It is, however not at all necessary
 
 that embroidery be hand done. Both domestic and foreign manufacturers
 have made such improvements that it
 is often difficult to distinguish their
 wares and those which embody many
 hours of toll and imperilled eyesight.
 White unquestionably leads in the
 matter of color, although dashes of
 color are frequently introduced, as in
 centers of flowers, or where such an addition will serve to accentuate conventional pattern. The linen cos
 tune in both white and color is des-
 tined for an unprecedented vogue this summer and here, too, embroidery has preference over any other mode of decoration, and over the plain or self trimmed creation which was so large
 ly the mode last season.
 For the heavier linens the embroid- cry is heavy and bold in design, and wrought in coarse threads, and there IS even a return of the padded em-
 hroidery such as has been in evidence all winter on some of the richer and more elaborate toilettes. This padded embroidery is almost invariably done in self-color or in several tones of the self-color Great care must be exer- cised in the selection of the materials that the color does not run" or fade, and even then it will be necessary to take some precaution against it's ruin alton in the laundering process,
 With the pretty silk fabrics or the silk and wool or with rousseau or other piece of apparel about which | one has some sentiment, that is an- other matter, and worthy any expen- | allure of time and energy, and one ! may with all satisfaction embroider them as much as one is inclined, for they are going to be just as good style | next fall, and for the house in winter, | as they are now.
 The favorite designs are the conven- | tional floral ones, the leaves done In | solid embroidery with the petals in eye let and buttonoholing, and the center of French knots.
 A smart costume noticed in a recent | consignment from Paris house was of dull blue linen of a heavy firm weave. The skirt, which was shoe- top length, was cut in seven gores, each one forming a double box plait. The front one was almost covered with English embroidery of self color in q large rose design, with much foliage massed in 1t; the other plaits or pan els, as they appeared to be, showed the same in a nine-inch border. A \ gUimpe of cream-colored batiste was embroidered in similar design, as also was the blue pinafore worn over 1t, on which there was a cluster of roses done in front and on the top of the sleeve cap Another of the novelties anent these embroidered linen cos tunes is to have the entire garment finished, and the embroidery applied afterward, quite irrespective of the bias bands, folds, etc., which may form a part of It's construction. This idea is worked out charmingly in certain importation of white hand kerchief linen, The skirt is cut to fit snugly around the hips, and from there to fall in box plaits of graduated width, There is front panel, which extends to the top of the girdle. Around the skirt are four circular folds put on three inches apart. These folds are machine stitched and each ends in a rounded point, which laps on to the front panel. Almost cover Ing the skirt below the hips is a dar- Ing embroidery design in white, and his, as suggested above, is worked over the skirt quito regardles of the bands. The effect is odd, but wonder fully satisfactory.
 There is an attempt to transfer Wal achian embroidery, which has hither- 10 been used almost exclusively on linens, to frocks of the firm er, heavier linens, but it's alternating ong and short stitches and the use 'f rather startlingly contrasting col 'lS leAuers u dlHnoSt LOO aggressive Or good taste in dress, and the de- sign, too, is chiefly developed iron. some stiff floral motif which is not graceful.
 Lace is little used on the heavy lin- ms, but is seen in even greater pro- usion that ever on the mulls batistes, | tnd other thin materials, while for he costumes of fine, soft linen 1t is Llso used in profusion. but always in | fiat effect. Linen in it's very quality orbids the accession of many frills.