The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-07-14
LONDON FASHIONS.
BY MAY DAWSON.

nllip which the visit of the king and
queen of Denmark. In addition to the
state ball and the International horse
show has given TO the season has had
its influence where fashion is con-
cerued, and this years court eclipsed
any on record. The flower garden ef-
feet which the lovely shades OF the
dresses always give to the scene was
this year accumulated a hundredfold by
the materials of the gowns patterned
with immense flower designs, and
above all by the large cloche hats
trimmed with their masses of blooms.
With such hats parasols are more for
show than use, some of the shapes
being as large as a small sunshade
itself and shading the face far more
effectually.
One point about these hats is that
small flowers are absolutely inadequate
and for the first time on record i'm
mense blooms such as full-blown peo-
MES, water and annunciation lilies and
great white and purple rises are being
pressed into service by the miiliner who
has hitherto pinned her faith to small
er blooms Next to these the feather
vogue is paramount, and heron's
plumes contend for the place of honor
with emu feathers, marabOut and the
new forms of ostrich plumes, which
are only seen in clusters, including
some three or four dozen feathers. The
extraordinary prices which are cheer
fully given for millinery this year are
inevitable owing to the enormous mi
tial outlay. One feather or single
self TO make One feather or single
flower would be absolutely useless on
hat which would take a trans atlantic
trunk to pack it in, and when each
plume costs a large sum in itself, and
three dozen or more are required ii can
easily be imagined that the creator of
modes can hardly be expected not to
levy her charges in accordance.
As regards accessories our old friend
the PierrOt ruffle has once again come
10 light and Is assuming numbers of
fresh guises, which say much for the
originality and taste OF the modiste'
The prettiest example are those which
are designed in white ring-spotted net
finished with a tiny edging of Valen-
ciennes lace dyed a China blue, while
gold gauZe ribbon is likewise used in
the same connection. q touch of origin
atty being shown in the case of rose
petals of crinkled gold silk. which are
scattered sparSely over the net An
other faVOrite as an accompaniment to
the dresses of the palest blue or pink
mousseline de sole is the ruffle of dead
leaf cOque's plumeS shot with metallic
bronze and presenting a decided con-
trast to the ordinary cOlOred examples
Charming rainbow effects are gained
by means of white tulIe illusions, the
edge of the ruffle being sewn with four
of five lines of coloTed baby ribbon in
the narrOwest width in soft tones of
pink. lavender. almond green and two
shades of amber the streamers being
fiat bands of the tule sewn with ribban
TO match.
Flower patterned materials and
dresses of lace and embroidered muslin
stand first in favor as regards gowns
for the races. Nothing is too elaborate
or too delicate for the occasion, and
luxury could hardly go farther than a
gown of Irish lace of the finest quality
over gold tissue and trimmed with dem
tellc of Il different make. as well as the
most costly embroideries. The gown
with semi-empire effect at the back is
still far from being shelved, while the
tichu has been Incorporated so much
with the kimono bodice that one is suf-
fering in consequence from a certain
confusion of ideas regarding the most
favored style
Dresses of plain mousseline de sole
or crepe hemmed with deep bands of
pompadour silk-patterned with the
same huge flowers which appear on the
hats and with fruit that might be well
calculated to put those of the promised
land in the shade-are much in evil
denCe, while in some cases these silk
hens are yelled with coarse filet which
j. innocent of any embroidery or pat
tern. even the floss silk flower designs
which are so ubiquitous, being waived
I'm this instance.
One of the chief features Of the real
ly smart summer frocks of the moment
IS the beautiful white linen frOck,
heavily embossed with raised designs
of Irish crochet and guipure, further
inserted with NalencienneS or Cluny
lace. These gowns viii be much in evil
dence at garden parties. race and other
meetings. OF course. they are costly.
for one cannot touch real lace and hand
embroideries. be the foundation only of
muslin. without a gOOdly expenditure
They are not a new fashion, but very
charming one. and some of them have
reached the height OF perfection this
season. Some of them are so fine and
SO beautifully inserted that they in
deed deserve the term lingerie"
frOcks.
1t is quite certain that everything
must be embroidered. and il II be
neither linen nor lawn. embroidery. it
will probably be silk embroidery of
some kind.
A beautiful model observed this week
represents a silk frock in quaint
shade of biscuit taffeta. The front of
the skirt, the undersleeves and the bo-
dice trimming are of the new filet net
IN a pale shade of eau-de-ni embroi-
dered in biscuit tones. Vioux rose and
dead gold with an outer edge of very
dark green. on the bodice is a touch
of dark green velvet. A biscuit cOlored
chip hat trimmed with a shaded vieux
rose feather was worn.
Another very smart frock in white
crepe de chine worn with a black and
white striped silk cutaway coat was
seen with a high waist on the back and
a kind Of Louis appearance in the
front. This was trimmed with the most
lovely embroidery. slightly outlined
with black, and this was also intro
duced on the skirt. The vest and I'M
dersleeves We're of cream lace. and sur
mounting this toilette was a hat of
white chip trimmed with white ostrich
plumes and a touch of black velvet,
while the sunshade was of the quaint
est. consisting of fTills of black taft
fetas.
I think headgear for the country has
always been a rather difficult problem,
because on very few occasions do pic
turesque hats or anything with feath-