davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-08-04

tints from which to select. from bright
electric color to a soft Japanese shade that
Is becoming to blonde and brunette allie.
Bordering on the latter shade an exceed
ingly smart linen costume was made up
with half-ltted cutaway jacket and full
walkng-length skirt. The coat, which fell
not quite to the knees. was but semi-f1tted
in the back, with loose box front, and in
stead Of collar. revers or cuffs there were
bands OF embroidery finishing the coat.
worked in the exact shade OF linen thread.
The loose kimono sleeves were in one piece
with the coat itself. and were, If anything,
shorter than elbow length, and were fin
ished of like the coat with bands Of en-
broidery worked direct upon the material
while over each seam was a narrow band
Of the embroidery. The skirt was a plain
but unusually full circular model.
Lingerie and lace collar and cuffs are not
SO much in vogue as was the case last sum-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-08-04

cided overskirt The lower skirt, which
has round length. was very full around
the bottom. and was trimmed with a two
inch band Of contrasting material, on either
side Of which there were four rows of
stitching. Over this was, hung a second
skirt, which was pointed in front and
sloped up all the way toward the middle
of the back. This overskirt was laid in
small pleats around the hips and then fell
in graceful folds below this.
1t was finished around the bottom In a
similar manner to the skirt, with a band
Of clustering material put on with four
rows of stitching.
The skirt made on this model was of fine
striped material. the stripes Of the under
skirt running up and down and the over
skirt stripes being diagonal. The trimming
bands were made OF plain cloth. Such a
skirt, made of crepe de chine or a similar
soft fabric, would have the bands Of the
same color but OF different material-satin,
taffeta, silk or velvet. A taffeta skirt would
also have the bands of the same color but
in different materials: for instance, velvet
or heavy satin or cloth. figured, striped
or checked skirt would have bands in black
II black were one Of the coors In the de-
sign.
Another skirt of striped material showed
the stripes running in three ways-diag-
onal. horizontal and rectangular.
The skirt was entirely without pleats.
1t was practically bell skirt. with a seam
directly down the front The skirt in
three sections or. rather, tiers. The upper
part showed the stripe running diagonaly
from the front center seam. This seam
was outlined by two very narrow stitched
bands, which continued around the bottom
Of this upper section and hid the Joining Of
1t to the lower section. The upper section
Of the skirt continued to a little below the
knees.
Beneath this there was q deep band Of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-08-04
Preservation of Beauty
Secured by Neat Outfit

Fair woman's outfit for the preservation
of her beauty is growing large and all
important that 1t will presently be neces-
sary for her to have separate dressing
room or beauty surgical Office in which -
store these valuable instruments. There
are more of these aids to beauty invented
every day. and many women keep as keen
an outlook for the new things in this line
as on fashions in frocks.
Just now femininity is much excited over
new face fapper. with which the face is
gently tapped with a view to restoring the
contour and bracing up the muscles The
face fapper has long handle and disk
at one end for Tapping purposes.
There are new nasal clamps and masks
much in for the young daughters OF
faithful mothers who go about improving
the shape OF their offsprings nose IN this
manner systematically as II they were
proceeding with the education or moral
training OF the young person. Ladies who
wish their faces to be smaller find bands
ready for this purpose at all the beauty
parlors while ladies whose double chins
are the troublesome point in their appear
ance are provided with chin STRIPS which
have holes for the ears. which keep the
strap in place. All these masks. straps.
nose clamps. etc, are made OF rubber.
which does no harm to the skin and is not
uncomfortable.
For pit-patting the race-in more conven-
tional language. for facial massage-there
is new instrument whereby this treatment
may be given at home, the doctor and the
patient being one and the same. The In
strument Is made of two chamois-covered
disks with a vibratory spring in between.
With a very little pressure the vibrator
acts upon the face with all the force OF
professional masseuse.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-08-04
How the Engaged Girl
May Make Others Happy

\ CIR! who is engaged to be married has
opportunity when away in the summer to
make herself the most popular person
present when her fiance is with her For
X she has the least thought FOR others IL
NoS within her power to do much for them
ana 10 help other girls not engaged to so
many good times that the fruits of her
thought are more than likely 10 materiaIlze
In the unusual number and attractiveness
o. wedding gifts later On the other hand
she can By thOughtlessness and selfishnes,
make herself, II not disliked at least a
person OF indifference TO others
The road 10 popularity lies simply along
the way OF trying TO use her happiness to
add to the pleasure of others.
Tie presence Of a man sometimes makes
possible excursions not safe for girls alone
and there Is scarcely a place in the coun-
try or seashore where men are not in the
minority and sadly needed al times If
the engaged girl Will take occasion when
her iance Is with her for time to make
up 4 picnic or boating party and ask the
other girls TO go along she will have done
a graceful and kind thing One day occa-
sonaily spent in the society OF others Is
not going to spoil the mans whole vaca-
ton. which naturally he would rather
have as much he can with his hancee.
and unless he is extremely selfish he Will
be- quite willing TO do his share in this re-
spect OF helping others.
To spend her time ostentatiously writing
10 her fiance and talking OF him In his
absence is not only bad form. but silly and
often bores others extremely. The girl
wearing a betrothal ring must not forget
that she is not the first one who has been
engaged and that she is not a paragon OF
perfection and fatal fascinator even
though she is and should be to her future
husband. Others. however. DO not regard
with the Same eyes, and unless she
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-08-04
Proverbs Concerning Women.
DANISH

truth-telling woman finds few friends
An ill-tempered woman Is the devils door
nail
Judge a maiden at the kneading pan. not
at the dance
Give your wife the short knife, keep the
long one yourself
A bad wife likes to see her hushap nd, a
heels turned to the door
He who marries widow with three chill
dren marrtes four thieves
One hair OF a maiden's head pulls harder
than ten yoke OF oxen.
cross-grained woman and a snapp.sh
dog take good care of the house.
ITALIAN
The born beauty Is born betrothed
Women and hens are lost by gadding
When woman reigns the devil governs
In craft woman can give points TO the
devil.
A woman's in pain. a woman's in woe a
woman is Ill when she likes to be so.
A woman who loves 10 be a; the window
Is like bunch of grapes at the wayside.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-08-04
@ WHITE
SILK Jacket

in the upper part OF the sleeve and tn,
white polka dots the cuff. The skirt
had two rows OF narrow tucks just below
the knees. below which a row of lace me-
dallions set quite apart encircled the skirt
while below this again was another double
row of tucks. each tuck an inch in width.
The three-inch belt OF the material fitted
we'll to the figure fastening in front with
two large pearl buttons. while attached 10
this belt a bias skirt which was long
enough to Just cover the hips. and with
the waist to give the effect of a medium
length jacket. In dark shade OF tan or
blue this style OF dress would he most
serviceable for travelling or for a long mo-
tor trip for the inevitable white shirt waist
or guimpe are dispensed with. while fresh
white collar and jabot would keep the form
looking smart for fairly long time.
Still another way to obtain long, graceful
lines Is shown in one OF the accompanying
illustrations. Here there is bodice of lace
over which the material Is laid in long
straps. which are carried down over the
skirt and give the effef OF a long jacket.
For an afternoon costume this model is
singularly effective. Then there the lace
coats, which are apparently just as much
In favor as ever. and are worn In just the
same way last year, sometimes with
linen and again over elaborate gown OF
chiffon and embroidery 1t is not necessary
for the gown Itself to be trimmed with the
same pattern or even the same kind OF
lace from which the coat is made TO have
the two be effective together. but naturally
the costume Is more complete II coat AMI
gown are designed in the one model.
There is rather sharp line drawn be-
tween the severe and the elaborate costume
of today. but then every woman to whom
simplicity OF line is becoming is naturally
going to carry out that idea In each gown
she selects. depending upon beauty OF de-
tail and finish for effect, while any one
who can stand a considerable amount OF
furnishing and trimmings is going to show
up all this elaboration with the effect that
1t deserves The woman possessing the
real instinct for dress will keep the appro-
pirate constantly in mind, and then she
will always be gowned in a costume that
is exactly suited to whatever time and
place she graces with her presence.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-08-04

ular this year. Even In town. however
lightweight suit Of linen or pongee looks
more appropriate, and unless one is forced
to spend a great part Of the summer In the
city or make frequent trips for business or
pleasure, a lightweight suit, worn with
thin white bodice, IS really the best style.
Shirt-waist gowns of India silk pongee and
foulard are by no means out of favor, how
ever. and as they are altogether tho coolest
dresses that can be made, they are
best for the woman who spends the week
ends only in the country. The old term
shirt-waist dress is still made use of. as 1t
really describes this particular kind OF
gown; but while shirt waists tend to grow
simpler, the silk shirt-waist dresses are,
X anything. built on more elaborate lines
than was the case last year, but retain the
fine separate yoke OF lace or lingerie, and
continue to be made up unlined or else
with only sheer lawn foundation, boned
and fitted only as much as Is necessary
for the figure. the Ideal figure. Of course,
requiring no bonng. and If no lining Is de-
sired 1t may then be dispensed with. One
great advantage in a linen suit over silk
gown Is that at the end Of long hot day
IN an automobile or train the dress may
be put in the tub and washed whereas a
silk has to be cleaned. and most cleaning
establishments require a week at the very
least before the dress is returned. and this
is often great inconvenience. On the
other hand silk retains its freshness far
longer than linen. and does not show every
particle Of dust and dirt so that the points
for and against each are about even and
the only possible way Of arriving at a sat
isfactory decision is to order a gown or
many gowns of each description and then
be prepared for whatever emergency may
arise.
Dark blue is perhaps the most satisfac-
tory of all shades for travelling or for airy
occasion that necessitates a good, service
able color but IL the deeper shades are I'M
Becoming there are any number of lighter
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-08-04

down the skirt in front, getting shorter to-
ward the back. On a taffeta or satin skirt
the same material or velvet may be used.
On a cloth skirt the strapping is done with
braid taffeta. satin velvet.
Another attractive new skirt for taffeta
or cloth is made with four box pleats, ex-
tending from the waist and with the entire
lower portion of the skirt box pleated. In
the upper portion of the skirt there are
four box pleats. narrow at the top and
widening out toward the bottom. These
extend to the very bottom OF the skirt.
The plain panels In between these pleats
reach as far as the knees and are buttoned
on to the lower pleated portion with two
crocheted buttons and loops. The lower
edge of these plain panels is in two large
scallops.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-08-04

- EASON after season and year after
year short jackets. both plain and
elaborate, are brought into vogue,
~ and at first apparently succeed in
winning Dame Fashions heartiest
approval. but Just as regularly there is sure
to be 81 rrversion to the long-ltted or box
back coats that cannot fail to look smart
and are bound TO be becoming to any fig
ure. whether tall and slender or below aver
age height and not slight the pre-
vailtng mode sanctions for weight and
height are governed by fashions dictates
just as much as are the correct models in
hats. gowns. wraps and the minor Access
series Of dress. The ideal woman of today
Is unusually tall and of very slight, grace
full build with broad shoulders. long slen-
der waist and. on might almost say. no
hips Sad to relate. this ideal is as apt to
tiude US any other. but still II Is posi-
BILE. by careful study of ones own lines and
ny selecting only those models that will
eor'EtHaje every detail that makes homo
desirable point prominent and helps to rem
Ger lncorspicuous whatever is not quite in
keeping with the desired result for every
woman 10 at least approach perfection and
surely hats all that can be expected in
connection with an ideal. Since these long
g.ve long and slender lines TO any figure
It Is not remarkable that this style of dress
has such continuous popularity and regu-
larry returns 10 vogue by the middle OF
the season. even If at it's commencement
long coats are announced as completely out
OF fashion and reign OF Eton. blouse and
bolero inausurated.
Nor has this year been any exception to
the rula Last autumn all the new models
showed every conceivable design In short
1ackets-some fitted others loose. the ma
tortty decidedly elaborate. but a number
cOnspcuously unadorned: but by December
long tailor Jackets We're again noticeable
and continued 10 gain in favor until the
spring. when the introductions of summer
costumes brought out light, cool. short
Jackets os silk. pongee. wolfe and linen. but
even these. with common sense as q great
point in their favor. have been forced to
give way before the smart tailor de cos
tunes with three quarter length half-fitted
Jacket. with long or sometimes three-quar-
ter length sleeves and quite short plated
skirt. Whether the costume be of serge or
sAk. Of pongee or of rajah. plain three
quarter length Jacket is quite evidently pre-
ferred whether the costume is intended
for travelling or automobiling. yachting
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-08-04
New Separate Skirts iii Elaborate Styles.

cloth, the stripes of which were vertical.
This formed the second section of the skirt.
This band also opened UP the 'front.' and
was outlined with stitched bands, which
extended around the skirt.
The lower section Of the skirt was also
| a deep band, whose stripes ran vertically.
This skirt was a round length, and was
of material suitable for wearing with plain
linen or silk waists for the morning.
A more Elaborate skirt was made in a
paneled effect There were four panels.
one in front. one in the back and one on
each side. For the foundation for each
, panel there were two box pleats. The two
pleats in each group were close together,
but the groups were separated from each
other by spaces wide as that taken by
the pleats. From the belt to we'll below
the knees a panel Of embroidery was taken
down the center Of each group Of pleats.
80 that 1t covered the middle half Of each
pleat. The front panel was the longest
and that in the back much the shortest. A
black silk, satin or pongee crepe de chine
or chiffon would be suitable for this model.
With such trimming the effect Of pleats
Is so disguised that it Is scarcely noticed
a pleated skirt until It has been
amined.
This idea of Disgusting the pleats is also
used In another very attractive skirt whose
model is quite new. In this skirt there are
six inverted box pleats. The front panel
of the skirt is plain and the two back pleats
are close together. making very at
tractive back. Each side of each box pleat,
from the waist line to we'll below the knees
Is strapped with a narrow, stitched band
of the material At the ends Of each two
of these bands they are strapped across
with three narrow braids. This so dis
guises the pleats that the skirt looks like
paneled one with pleats only below the
knees. The strapping Is carried further
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-08-04

dressmakers to get away from the
pleated skirt, which has been so
long and SO deservedly popular
In making separate skirts, either
of cloth or silk, this is especially difficult
because there has never been anything
which has proved more universally becom-
ing than the pleated skirt, especially for
wear with odd waists.
A new model for long skirt which has
just been turned out by a Paris dressmaker
has a plain panel down the 'front.' narrow
at the top and widening toward the bottom
This panel was outlined on both sides by
bands Of lace. which also widened toward
the bottom. Each panel Of lace was in
three pieces. the ends of each piece being
pointed and fastened down with three small
buttons. In spite Of much that has been
said to the contrary. handsome separate
skirts are still in demand. and the skirt in
question was very handsome one Of black
satin trimmed with flet lace in white and
Jet buttons.
*
All OF the skirt, with the exception Of
the front panel was laid in vertical tucks
around the top. These tucks were small
and at some distance apart. extending we'll
down over the hips and back. SO that there
was no fullness at all at the top of the
skirt. The skirt was very long all around
and had a slight train. The bottom OF the
skirt was finished with fine, rather broad
tucks. These were strapped across at in
tervals with bands OF the lace finished In
points. which were fastened with jet but
tons. Such skirt as this would be ex
tremely useful to wear with lace and chif
fon theater waists in black and white.
gray, etc.
very novel skirt, suitable for silk or
lightweight cloth or for separate crepe
de chine skirt to be worn with lace and
chiffon bodces. was made with q very de-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-08-04

sailing or any occasion calling for smart
coat-skirt costume. Naturally the original
model may be elaborated upon. Lace or
lingerie collar and cuffs look cool at this
time of year and do much to make the CO.'S
tune attractive and becoming, and stitched
bands OF the material or of silk or cloth
or ra1ah give a nice finish Then, of course,
there are the embroidered silk coats, which
are effective in all colors. as we'll as in
black and white. and for afternoon wear
silk gown with a long embroidered jacket
of the same coloring Is wonderfully eff
fective, particularly II some note Of con-
trasting color Is introduced in the trim
ming or on the hat and parasol
The exact style of coat designated each
year as of three-quarter length differs de-
cidedly from season to season. At one time
a so-called three-quarter jacket Will reach
nearly. IL not quite. to the hem Of the walk
ing skirt. while again the jacket just es
capes being a REFER coat. In other words.
three-quarter coat is of any length that
succeeds In coming below the hips; but
there is rarely any ambiguity In the term.
as there IS seldom much difference in
length In vogue at the same time. for when
the shortest OF these jackets are in favor
the exaggeratedly long ones do not look
smart and vice versa. Today the so-called
three quarter coats about as short as
they are ever permitted to become, but
there IS no actual restriction to the shortest
lengths. and If IT is more becoming for the
jacket to fall to the knee then this model
will be smartest; but below the knee no
Jackets are allowed to reach yet and al
though II is possible that some such mod
els may be seen by the winter, this is not
likely to occur.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-08-04

For travelling at this time of year the
coolest dress procurable Is the smartest.
but for any long journey coat and skirt
costume is most fashionable, although for
a short trip into town for shopping silk
suimpe or jumper dress is decidedly pop
The Washburn leader., 1907-09-06

charged with maintaining a monopory
Of the anthracite coal industry in res
straint OF trade.
The answer denies that the coal
roads purchased the capital stock Of
the Temple Iron company and also
denies that the Temple Iron company
has 'tthrottled competition In the
transportation and sale Of anthracite
coal"
The answer admits that the cor
poration acquired several small com
panies concerned in the mining of
coal, but claims the purchases were
under the authority of the laws Of
Pennsylvania. The defendant con-
tends that the United States courts
have no jurisdiction to enter decree
enjoining the other coal companies
named in the bill of complaint from
voting the stock they hold in the Tenn
pie Iron company, as the government
has petitioned the court to do.
The Temple Iron company's answer,
as did those Of the three Reading COM
panies filed last week, refers to the
governments charges as vague. In
definite, impertinent and scandalous."
The Washburn leader., 1907-09-06
Fat Woman,s Human Lever

She was unusually fat, so stout in
fact that when she prepared to drop
into the better part of two seats in the
crosstown car the two women who
were on either side of the space she
was going to fill to repletion crowded
away from her as far as they could.
And when a woman will make room
for another in a street car it is plain
there is something the matter. She
puffed and painted for several minutes
after she had become seated, and when
the car had gone few blocks it was
apparent that she wanted to get up
and leave. The struggle was hard
one and. as it proved, an impossible
one through her own efforts. There
CHANGED to be man standing in front
Of her, and without word she reach
ed up, caught his arm and deliberately
pulled herself out of the seat. The
man looked at her with an expression
Of pain on his face and, apparently un-
conscious Of the amusement on the
faces Of the other passengers, stood
rubbing his arm and staring after the
fat woman as long as she was in sight
New York Press.
The Washburn leader., 1907-09-06
The Usual Thino.

"Here, now! What in gigadab is ali
this rumpus aboutY' demanded Aver.
age Citizen, thrusting his head out OF
a second story window of his domicile
and glaring Indignantly down at the
disturber below. who are you, and
why in the name of the bird with the
broad and sweeping wing are you try
ing to break into my houseY'
Il am Opportunity, knocking at your
door," was the reply. Kindly descend
at once and admit me before it is ever
lastingly too late. l am in great haste,
as. despite my best efforts. am rum
Elng far behind my schedule"
The Washburn leader., 1907-09-06

''Well, then, glide along" "rornng your
hoop and disposing Of your War Cries. .
somewhat sarcastlcally answered Av-
erage Citizen. You will have to get
yourself identified before you can do
any business with me. have been led
to believe that you must bear a mark
ed resemblance to page advertise
ment in Sunday newspaper and make
a noise like an investment which Is
guaranteed to pay dividend of 40 per
cent in the near future. Possibly you
are all that you claim to be, but you
look more like hard work to me-
Puck.
The Washburn leader., 1907-09-06
Boys Head Blown of.

Minot, N. D., Sept. 4.-Holding his
gun between his knees while watching
for covey of prairie chickens near
Minot Alvin Albertson accidentally
blew off his own head. His body was
discovered in the. buggy headless and
bathed in blood. The horse and dog.
unconscious of their headless driver,
went short way before they were
stopped and the gruesome sight was
reYieWed