The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1907-08-17
ABOUT The Fashions
NEW NOTES BORROWED
From the Russian, Japanese
and Spanish Modes
For August.

wear present many features that dis
tinguish them from the early summer
models, and that will reproduce eff
fectively in fall materials
Sheer fabrics have had a remark
able run this year, and to this fact is
due the introduction of that distinctly
feminine note that has characterized
the costumes Of all types from the
fllmiest, beruffled organdie or null to
the tailor-made.
In the newest gowns, however, while
there is no less of the feminine note,
there is a very decided tendency to-
ward simplicity; and, as these gowns
which have been especially created for
the height of the midsummer season,
are bound to do service till late into
September, and the prettiest of them
to do service as evening frocks per-
haps throughout the fall and even in
winter, they are particularly worthy OF
notice. The most impressive feature
is the way the trimming is massed to
give that required air of simplicity
and the way the skirts and bodices
each are cut to suggest long lines. In
the skirts this Is done by means Of
curved seams at the sides, over the
hips, and of frightening of the
breadth at these points, and in the
waist by a plain, or, at least, eompar-
atively plain, underarm piece with
the trimming extending from shoulder
to waist. To illustrate more clearly
mousseline which is cut in Ave
cores, very wide and flarlng from the
knees down, and gathered at the waist
is first turned up around the bottom
in deep hem. Above this Is q ser
pentlne band Of shirred mousseline
outlined on either side with a narrow
frlll also of the mousseline. Three
inches above this, two rows of shirred
Valenciennes are put on In undulating
fashion intersecting each other at in
tervals to surround medallions of ap
plique. Above this and bringing the
decoration to knee depth is another
single row Of ruffled mousseline APP
piled in serpentine fashion. In the
waist the trimming Is all in front and
back, leaving, as has been suggested,
the under-arm portions and narrow
line at the shoulder Of the plain ma
terial. Alternating with twoinch
band of shirred mousseline are two
rows Of closely gathered Valenciennes,
and this is laid over the foundation in
the form of a plastron. A little
Dutch yoke of Princesse lace gives it
charming bit Of contrast. The
sleeves are very full at both shoulder
and elbow, but, as they are drawn into
snug band at the bottom, the effect
| is that of the usual width.
Another frock of mousseline, in a
dull, silvery blue, with satin dots
scattered over it, shows the clever
T, combination of tailored and dressy eff
| fects that is to be one of the features
of fall modes. The skirt is made in
! straight breadths, with the fulness
] plaits and to the back in gathers laid
very closely, so that they take up only
q small space. This leaves the sides
and the front comparatively plain.
Around the bottom is Greek border
| outlined with three-inch lace banding.
The waist is behe model with the
! slight fulness drawn into the belt di-
rectly in front and back the neck cut
out in a deep V-shape, and the Japan
ese sleeves bordered, or, rather, form
/ ed of the lace banding. A stripe Of
the lace is also let in from either
shoulder seam to the waist line. The
lace banding wherever used is piped
with smoke gray silk which harmonic
es with the blue. The guimpe, in
contrast, is of sheer white null, COM
| pletely covered with tiny Fittings of
lace.
That the Japanese tendencies will be
retained in the modes of the coming
season is proved conclusively by the
| August models, which, while many of
them show wide notifications, invari-
ably retain a suggestion of the ORR
entail in the sleeve.
| One of the new sleeves is exception
ally charming. 1t shows a long under
arm effect, with an under-sleeve
which tapers very perceptibly from
the shoulder to the waist, or to the ell
bow, If 1t is of that length; and, when
this is made as it often is, of lace ruff
fles, it is wonderfully chic
A simple beach costume that has
attracted much merited commenda-
ton, and which would be quite as eff
fective developed in one of the smooth
flannels, is blue butchers linen. The
skirt plated in two-inch side plaits,