The daily morning journal and courier., 1907-04-11

row of chiffon ruching of dark blue put in In serpentine fashion, the two rows intersecting each other The waist was surplice style, folding over a guimpe of dotted net and edged |around with a bias band of plain blue silk embroidered in blue and gold. The straight shoulder caps were also border ed with the blndi anl he girdle of blue silk was likewise decorated.
 The introduction of new designs in foulards has given them new value, and they are seen in shirt-waist suits and more dressy creations. The large dots and disks were so largely dupli- cated last year in cotton materials 1 that these patterns may not be called l exclusive, but here are many new con- yentional designs, which are even pret- tier To accord with the prediction for stripes, hair-line and their stripes have been introduced into foulards, and are charming when properly deve e.oped. The use of stripes is hazarous always, and requires the skill of the artist, but nothing more effective or dsingue,
 For more elaborate dresses the sheer silk materials are most in evidence and here we find even a wider range, both in the way of colors and weayes. Silk vollle promises to be the leading fab lie, It is both practical and beautiful Marquisettes, chiffon paquin, chiffon Bordeaux minor voile, surface point Persian, all are interesting novelties. The plain weaves are very apt to be made over plaided, striped, or figured Things, while the fancy ones have plain foundations and are equally popular. The shades of brown from old-fashion- ed seal to mauve and champagne, are far and away fashions best-lilIed col DTS, with the preponderance of favor with the golden browns These s.tades, however, are difficult to find as the output was pretty well exhausted last fall when the tide of popularity began to turn in this direction.
 There is no color that lends itself less attractively to trimming than brown; that is, the dark shades, and therefore a model constructed along simple lines is preferable. Silk of the same or darker shades, braids, and flat trimmings In monotone are most effec- ltive. A new model shown in golden brown marquisette, and which is to form part of wedding rousseau, has the skirt laid in a triple box plait the length of the front, forming panel. Around the bottom are three wide tucks, and each is heavily braided with soutache of the gown shade. The braided pattern extends up over the front panel in pyramidal form. The bodice is jumper with the neck cut in scalloped point the seallop but ton-holed and embroidered in English eyelet and braided and the front also lis we'll covered with a braided design.
 The guimpe which has sleeves reach ing not quite to the elbows is fashion led of ecru net dotted and trimmed with an application of duchesse.
 silk and wool voile share alike ir favor and in each there are beautiful new designs. Some of the plads are Ipretty, especially the Scotch. and should be made up over a foundation of thc richest tint in the mixture A new note is sounded in the introduction ol some sort, embodying the lining, Ii which case 1t naturally follows that the lining should receive careful selection.
 Ecru and silver, with a line of dark blue running through 1t, Is one of tho lnew wool voe designs, and a simple pattern shows regular inch-squar, checks designated by quarter-inch line!
 in alternating blue and gold on a blu background.
 The chiffons and silk voiles, mar lquisettes, and others of similar ilk com,
 in exquisite patterns. plain, embroider ed, and printed The bordered effect are marvelously lovely, and the shade ordinary That Is, dary blue in any of these high grade goods does not ap pear ordinary dark blue, but has q pc culiar something, a richness, tha makes for excusiveness, and raises i Iout of the realm of the commonplace leven in the coloring. One of the new est designs ln nlnon voile has broad Isatln band at the bottom, which grad lually merges into the faintest of tint. about a yard up, and over this shadowy background is printed or woven, as tht case may be, motif of roses, the pet | als and foliage, as well as parts oi lthe stem, done in velvet, which cause, the whole design to stand out in mos realistic fashion. These come in brown green, dark and light bule, and in al iof the evening shades. Black and white is developed in these filmy materials il ting chiffon and satin, satin and gren ladlne. gauge and heavy silk with blair borders of black and white or hugt lowered borders on the order of thC lones just described above.
 For walking and shirtwaist suits thu plain and fancy silks are used a cord
 ing to the purpose they are to serve These, too, may be trimmed with band of contrasting material The correc skirt of this order reaches barely to tn, ankles, displaying thereby the whol, foot The plaited skirt or the one tha hangs from hip-length plaits is used land there Is a new design especially ladapted to the soft silks The top par is cut in seven or nine gores, whicl Ireach to the knees, where it meets fulled flounce or rufflle, and the tw, are joined underneath shaped bia
 band, which is stitched and may b further ornamented as desired. Anoth CT model shows the front gore extend
 ing the entire length of the skirt, form ing a panel, and the hounce meets it a