Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1907-03-30
.atost New York Fashions

1
collar. the cuffs on the sleeves, and
are repeated on both sides of the
vest.
The effect of these is by no means
disagreeable on certain models when
they are arranged with some meaning
and not stuck on haphazard.
Jackets of cloth, or of serge alone,
have the revers or the vest either
striped or checked, while the jack
cts in plaids or stripes are simply
trimmed with bands or straps. One
still sees long fitted jackets of coat
cloth, or with large revers, and dis
playing various trimmings, which
may form a small vest or outline a
short bolero. This is only good when
the trimmings match in tone the ma
terials. II is necessary to renounce
absolutely gaudy pipings, bright
stitchings or ideas for buttons of an
other shade, which clash disagree
ably with the color scheme and al
ways have crimson appearance.
The sleeves remain short, or half
length, embroidered on the cuffs,
some closed all around others very
much slashed. It is almost unneces-
sary to add that the cum trimmings
should match that on the jacket.
only the collar can be entirely diff
ferent.
So we see this spring that long
jackets. fancy coats, short boleros
all should meet with our approval,
but there will be nothing that is con-
ventional in their lines. 1t is here.
in harmonizing the garment to the
contour of the figure that the art Of
the costumer will find its greatest
triumph.
One of the nattiest innovations is
the little colored taffeta bridge
coat" with a skirt of black and white.
A costume seen at an afternoon
bridge party last week had a skirt
of black and white marquisette, the
white stripes about an inch wide and
the black about half an wide. Will
1t was worn a coat of blue tailored.
which had a jaunty little peplum of
original shape, n white lace front and
cut steel buttons. The fashion Of
fers resources for women with rem
nants of suitable silks.
The accentuation of the armhole
has been a whim of the tailor for six
months, at least, and has been in evi
dence still longer. The newest thing
is the mandolin sleeves" Joined TO
the lining of the coat or bodice, while
the outside material is finished sep
arately TO give a sleeveless jacket
effect. In such cases, the sleeve Is
usually of lace or guaze like the yoke,
but now and then they are OF the
gown material. A smart broadclotL
gown just home from abroad has
broadcloth sleeves set into the lining
of the bodice. The armhole of the
outside is cut large and edged with
band OF embroidery and a tassel
fringe that falls onto the sleeves.
The band of the embroidery outlined
on one side with fringe fashions a
surpllce effect on the front of the
bodice. The broadcloth sleeves end
ed in narrow cavalier cuffs well be-
low the elbow. Below them were
close fitting arm-lets OF lace like the
V front OF the bodice. These extend
ed less than half the length of the
forearm, and were finished with two
stitched clothstraps put on bias-wise
of the top.
A novel bolero combined the
shoulder strap and kimono-shaped
sleeve effect. IL was developed from
almond green velvet embroidered in
green and gold and was intended for
wear with a almond green crepe de
chine gown. This jacket was made
after one OF the two pronounced fads
in the cutting OF coats-the cutting
OF he sleeves and body part In one
piece. such as It done with the XII
mono, the second fad Is the emphasis
put upon the armhole as described
above.
In fact, outside OF the truly tailor
made, wraps and fancy coats are very
whimsical, fussy, coquettish and too
much betrimmed TO the last degree
Any woman who wishes to wear such
wraps should first study her figure
any style or be one OF the eye-sores
one Is seeing every day just because
OF this lack OF thought. There are
a great number OF women who should
never attept the fancy or much
trimmed styles, they look their best
when gowned in the tailormade or
plain dressy gown the dressy does