The daily morning journal and courier., 1907-03-16

chenille and even velvet is combined with braid or straw. For example Belgian straw is interwoven with a chenille cord, a stiff English straw has satin stripe through it. or a Tuscan braid Is given a border of watered silk In the choice of coloring a very wide margin is allowed, pale yellow and self-colored straws taking first place. Green in several tones, or in combina- ton with pastal shades, is on the fashionable list, along with lovey browns and odd electric blues.
 One thing very certain, even thus early, is that hats are to be very much betrimmed and very showily so. This puts the shape of the hat as a matter of secondary importance, and leaves it almost entirely to the taste and dis erection of the milliner All trimmings have tendency to droop, even up- tanding loops being unwired or only partially so, so that whit they keep their place, they may not appear stiff and uncompromising. Next to this, the sweeping effect is most noticeable, all trimmings being arranged to give suggestion of breadth.
 Ribbons, though on account of the exceeding rage for flowers, not quite as lavishly used as in some former sea- sons, are still very much in favor, and, even when they do not form the sole trimming, almost invariably have some part in the scheme of decorataion and are managed in various ways, gathered into bows with uneven loops, which by the way, are gathered closely instead of being pleated and are ar ranged symmetrieally; again they are formed into the most knots, with long streamers, in Watteau choux, with short, slasled ends hanging from them, or in lovely butterfly bows with the ends extending over the brim of 1 the hat and caught with an ornament to the hair.
 These ribbons are of taffetas, pre- ferably, but many new effects in chine and gauge are noticed. There is a no velty in toile-desoie ribbon, printed with weird little Japanese flowers and vine designs. Bordered ribbons are wonderfully pretty, and particularly are they effective in combination with gauge and glace, Whenever pompa- dour and Dresden ribbons are used, they are bordered rather heavily with velvet or satain in the flower color, and oftentimes are very charming.
 To accentuate the sweep effects, long scarfs and yelling are being used ex- tensively. Lace, chiffon, velvet, and taffeta ribbons, and net are all seen in combination. One dainty Partisan model shows a lemon-colored Tuscan straw with dropping brim and medi- um big crown, draped around and partially covered by a scarf of Cham lilly lace, with a border of knife-plait- ed chiffon, and the ends finished with even loops and ends of velvet ribbon, which hangs over the back of the nat to the shoulders.
 | Tulle is seen in profusion, outclassng all previous records. When crowns are made of it, bandeaus invariably note it somewhere in their construction, and not infrequently it is made to for the sole trimming, except possibly for an ornament of some sort.
 In the lavish use of flowers there is less call for plumage, but a member of models sent over here for opening-day inspection showed Paradist plumes, long ostrich plumes, and cocks plumes, set in with clusters of flowers, holding them in place, while in the smaller creations the aigrette was often in evi- dence. Grass aigrettes are making a strong bid for approval and are cer- tainly very attractive for midsummer wear. In forms they have the appear ance of a Paradise tail, and are to be had in different colors and combina- tions the shaded ones being particular ] ly effective. Many novelties in the feather and aigrette are noticed. Ar gus quills, coque feathers, marabout combinations, fancy quills, all have i been refashioned in frightened and more airy manner, nor for use in the warm weather millinery, and are more beautiful and alluring than when adorining our headgear this winter New York Evening Post
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