Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-12-29
EVENING DRESS IN COLORS
BLUE AND BROWN FABRICS
MADE INTO SWALLoWTAILS.
Changes in Cut - Simulated Cuffs,
Unordinary Buttons and More
Pronounced Waistiness.
From the Haherdasher.

From the Haberdasher.
Again the dictum that colored evening
dress has received the seal of fashions
approval for the winter season hobs up
in wonted health and vigor. Sometimes
run1ors repeated persstently merge into
reality, as witness the use of purple in
lounge-suit fabrics. OF course, the nu-
merous Authoritative statements con-
corning the new mode in formal clothes
made from one to three months ago
should not have been taken seriously by
any one, and probably weren't. In the
first place. the crack custom tailors were
wholly at sea themselves up to early
November. Some of those who serve
youngish and somewhat daring clientele
have been trying out a few wrinkles and
wondering whether or not they would be
regarded with any noteworthy degree OF
favor. Most of the innovations. the more
radical. at least, have already fallen by
the wayside, While d few, precious few,
have survived the test. Numbered among
the, rejected" are the dark blue and
brown materials, the striped patterns and
various minor details of construction lhat
were PATIENTLY ill-suited TO the vogue OF
plain effects in formal evening clothes.
second reason for taking the advance
''heraldngs" of the mode with little
seasoning is the undeniable fact That not
until society has stated itself with the
autumn sports and country house feS-
tivities and returned to town for the
opera, horse show and other functions is
there any knowing what is actually to
be. There is more than passing interest
in the subject of colored and patterned
abrics for the swallowtail. pleated for
NAL shirts and like fances-they have
not even attained the dignity of fads-
Tor the reason that in the eyes of many
keen students of dress noteworthy
III IN,
the near future. 1t may be said now
without a shadow of doubt that not one
of the innovations cited will have the
sanction of men of social standing the
present winter. The closest approach
to a pattern is twill cloth, and it would
take an expert to discern in it any sem
blance OF design AS for the indigo-dyed
fabric or deep brown, neither one has
the slimmest chance of Endorsement.
The black and white scheme VIII not. or
cannot. be shunted aside much as some
deprecate It. So with US still is the IA
miliar clawhammer, graceful in contour
and inky in its backness. permitting.
indeed compelling, mere man as hereto
fore to assume the role of somber back
ground or offset for the dazzlingly bril-
liant toilets of his sartorial superiors.
The Shoulder Lines.
Yet to the critical the evening dress of
the current season embodies several new
features that impart a bit of different
ness They cannot be considered signif-
cant of any tendency other than a lean
ing toward those little kinks of construc-
ton and finish we are accustomed to class
novelties. Square shoulders are passe.
Instead of building up. if need be, to get
that broad. straight-across effect that has
! been a marked characteristic of American
garments and the target of critics abroad,
particular men now elect the natural
| shoulder. 1t looks really narrow by COM
| Darison with what has been. Instead of
ling concave, it slopes down very per-
ceptibiy- | am confident we shall not
| come to the inverted ''V'' shoulder which
distinguishes English garments. Most
| men are not built that way, and it GER
| tainly does not accord with our virile
sentiments on clothes for the man. Rath-
| er. thu coat looks no wider than the
wearer and follows the lines of the
shoulder more precisely than has been
customary heretofore.
Then there is readily apparent va
Ration in the cut of lapels and lower
edges. Instead of following straight
line from the collar, the lapels mod
erately wide an peaked, form a gentle
but readily apparent curve, right down
to the bottom edge. Whale silk facing
| extends % the buttonhole on the lapels
but is not used. as last winter on the
collar. From the lower corner IN front
the line runs horizontally, forming a
rectangle instead of a deep point The
tails are cut away more Sharply, yet not
so pronouncedly as to expose the trousers
pocket, which is equipped with fly to
button snugy on the inside. So far as
the general set of the garment is con-
cerned. the preference is for generous
fullness below the shoulders-not across
them. mind you-so that a fold appears
under the shoulder seam. ne effect
of this construction IS TO accentuate the
snugness at the waist. ana its trimness is
further enhanced by the pressing out of
the tail seams.
Make-Believe Cuffs.
Although the swallowtail has been Sc
we're in it's plainness. the garments worn
/ by the smart element have one or two
| slight changes that betoken "a desire for
| some ornamentation. The sleeves have
the simulated cuff finish, similar in looks
ito a pleat but in reality separate piece
with q follower where it is attached to
( the sleeve The buttons are frequently
covered with silk of two distinct weaves
the center being very fine and the rim
basket weave or Oarathea.
Trousers are roomy, but not pegged
and have broad braid on the side seams
/ This braid measures seven-eighths of an
I i