The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-11-03

trick OF swelling to ulk when
placed in water. and five cents worth OF
mushrooms grows to a dish sufficient TO
feed a large and hungry family.
Il is only the French butchers that make
a feature of separating the tenuerloin,
which is the fket. from the upper partO the
steak and selling each by itself. The bone
il removed and the tenderlOin is sold for
s~ewsnty-flve cents a pound, the top steak
beiE z thirty-ffve, but ever at these prices
the purchase is profitable. as there is not
half an unc OF waste.
In the rear of the French stores you also
see hutchee OF live rabbits and ooops of
chic kans that wait the customers order.
and " cutting the meats and dressing them
for IL ~ market basket the French butchers
show q skill and deftness that cannot be
euuaIk u. The prices in most OF these
places Ge high, hut the customer feels re-
paid for the extra charge by h appear
ance and quality OF the meats. -,
The tur keys in market are AZ yet the cold
storage b Tds, but 500 they will arrive
from the West and South to take the centre
OF the STACEY which they occupy in the hOli-
day rejoicin ga.
Foreign epScures declare tne turkey 10
be a very mu,ph. Overrated bird. Its vogue,
they say, is dnA to its size and its pOpu-
larity with Oh udren as an adjunct TO the
Christmas and Thanksgiving dinners, but
in favor it Is inferior by far TO our wild
duck, partridge and 80 on.
The superior quality OF tho wild turkey
il admitted, but the farmyard king n
great holiday di. vh OF America 10 ridiculed
an a food for edu, sated palates-
Foreign attach q upon OUT institutions,
manners and mos ais are 50 frequent, how
ever, TINT they a hardly be taken seri-
ously. and as thew do not raise turkeys
abroad il il just possible that a little
Jealousy may. occasSon the criticism Of
our noble national bn1d
Besidee this, the average visitor to
America gains a knowledge OF u cuisine
at our hotsls rather than In homes and no
food suffers more In it's preparation or
profits more than the roast turkey;
The French chef a. a rule understands
the turkey not at all. To him it appears
10 be bur n mammoth chicken and he pre-
fers the smaller fowl. The fact that 10 ought
70 be baked until almost dry 10 incompro-
hensible 90 i'm.
The French cock Inss SITS /on sauces and
ne remov the turkey breasts and praises
them with mushrooms and trukfies, our
vine over tbs dish audit 10 not recognizable
The En9iish cook bodIs thu turkey whole,
and serves IL with spinach and boiled ham
always. And Il was In England that the
beauty Of tho turkey leg devilled and
! Grflled waa discovered, although 10 America
de leg u perhaps the least esteemed part
The German cooks fairly insult thu turkey
/ by stewing Il IA, a broth with bacon and
addinx noodles and PArunnsap cheesa. while
ia Turkish styie it b 6lled witha mixture Of
cooked rice, c~urrants, Chessnuts. pistachio
nuts and cinnamon. then baked and served
with q sweet sAuoe-
or lats we have read much about the
| charm OF bear steak. for which there is little
demand In cities. Once In q while tho
mnrkets that make a speciality OF oddities
Will have q bear In its pcJt hanging upon
the hooks. which has been ordered for some
but although tbss may:dihsoiOvsr tho