Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-05-11
New VlRelNA Roll. AND PUFTS
PARTISAN HINTS OF INTEREST.
NEW IDEAS IN SUMMER HATS

toned as the headquarters Of fashion.
American women have more money than
any others, and with money and taste one
can make fashions.
American Woman Dominant.
American women are already making
fashions even In Paris. You have seen
from time to time the statement that lace
lace without end, costly and in all yari-
ties. one season coarse meshed, another
fine meshed. but always lace-rules the day
in women's gowns and gown trimmings.
The American woman Is responsible Tor
this lace fad, which Is still on in full
force. favorite evening wrap for hot
days Is lace coat. II the evening be
bit cool, bright colored silk lining Is
worn under the lace.
The most famous lace gown recently
worn on this side of The water belongs to
Miss Van Allen, granddaughter of Mrs.
Astor. Among Paris fashionable danes 1t
Is a topic for a nine days talk especially as
they think Frenchwoman. not an Ameri-
can, ought to be the owner of this historic
robe. 1t was formerly owned In one of the
most aristocratic, likewise most impoverish-
ed, of the old French families. They are
apt to go together, aristocratic and impov
erished. The central fact about Miss Van
Aliens lace robe is that 1t once belonged to
Empress Catharine tie Great, Catherine II
of Russia, and was worn by her. How the
famous lace dress got to France is not just
told out loud, but get there it did and Mr..
James ]. Van Allen bought 1t for his daugh-
ter.
In this age of the kingdom Of money the
more costly the lace Is the more It Is
used. Like gold. perhaps. 1t may become
SO common by and by that 1t WI be
of no special value, but that Is not yet.
Among fashionable laces are gupure, Brus-
sells and antique Mechlin. Here in Paris
American women have the reputation Of be-
ing very good judges of lace. Different
shades from deep ecru to white are often
combined on one frock.
Things Must Earmonize.
One must not omit, either. to speak Of
dyed lace, which Is used so effectively on
all except tailor-made costumes. The har-
mony color scheme Is the vogue. Gray lace
to trim gray costume. with Gray gloves
and shoes to match, is a popular combina-
ton, especially if there be touch of sill
yer braiding and a silver trimmed girdle
For such costume blouse OF gray lace
over gray chiffon Is most suitable.
Cute little coats go with the street cos
tunes of all kinds. The linen suit is much
trimmed with fringe, fringe and tassels
Indeed, fringe Is also seen on more elabor-
ate costumes of taffeta and crepe de chine.
Bias folds seem to go naturally with the
fringes-at least SO the fashion makers
rule. The bias folds are greatly used for
the skirts of very swell dinner gowns.
Oh, yes, and there's new kind of collar
out. too. At lest 1t is an old one recrudes-
cent, to speak. 1t Is the high collar
slightly fiared. You remember In most OF
the later pictures of Mime. Bernhard that
she is shown with such a neck covering.
The new collar Is Ike that, except that 1t
flares out only little way from the neck,
coming high under the chin. Mines Hadng
and Rejane have adopted 1t; so also have
other prominent French actresses. Most of
these are of mature years, and gossip says
the fear of the chin that has begun to fab
is the reason for being of the new high flare
collar. Flab. or no fab. however. 1t can
not be worn becomingly by women with
short necks. AS to the fabby and double
chin, beautiful woman who Is much in
demand an artists model and must
therefore all means to preserve her
good looks puts q broad muslin band under
her chin every night. With this band she
covers her throat and the point of the chin.
She draws the loose flesh under the chin
of her head.
Some Color Schemes.
AS to colors for dinner and party gowns.
ODD rose. wedgwood blue and silver gray
lead. Several delicate shades are combined
in one costume. The popular silver gray Is
often Joined with nile green or pale blue.
Painted silk muslins are ready for the best
gowns of warmest days. A queer fancy of
the moment is to have your parasol of the
same material your silk pettlcoat. Odd
fancy. isn't 1t? But designers are appar-
emily sitting up nights to think out new
things TO conjure money out of husbands
and fathers pockets. In a general way,
what is hard to get and costs a lot Of
money Is fashionable.
CATHERINE TALBOT