The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-10-13
PARIS FASHIONS.
(By Madame Parquin.)

dTlSg Oct. Las a result OF the ulS-
astrous weather OF the past few months
nearly all Parisiennes have resumed
| tailor-mades of woollen materials; and
| those who previously did not possess
| the smart and convenient robe trot-
| teusc, or shortcut skirt, have now
adopted that garment with ardor, made
generally of some kind of check or tar
tan, and accompanied by a somewhat
long jacket of plain cloth. These ma
terials and this form of dress are quite
popular everywhere.
They certainly are most useful and
serviceable for the present weather.
The adjusted jacket is generally made
so long that only comparatively
narrow strip of the skirt is seen be-
yOnd 1T. The sleeves are now worn long.
That, indeed, is the latest and most i'm
portant change for autumn. No mid
die course is admissible among those
who like to be we'll in advance. Speak
ing generally, dresses will be worn less
large and more clinging to the figure
than has been the case, showing the
outline of the body In more defined
degree. The Princesse form will be
much in vogue, and the sleeves are to
be prolonged to the wrist. All the best
patterns seen up to the present time
follow these indications. 1t would
however, be a mistake to suppose that
only one style will prevail, for each
dressmaker OF note endeavors to pro-
duce something original in his crea-
tions. One insists on the dresses being
so tight-fitting that the wearers find
themselves compelled to go without
petticoats, the clients of this famous
house being obliged to resign them
selves to wearing a silk or satin com
bination" if they desire to show fully
all the merits of their outer robe and
permit it to disclose all the attractions
of their figure. Another confines him.
self TO the simple and harmonious lines
of the Princesse, allowing only such
variations as may be required to suit
the outline of each fair client. This
style is generally set off with very rich
stoles, embroidered and re-embroidered
and ending in beautifully finished long
fringes of silk or chenille. These stoles
are fastened to the dress, or perhaps 1T
might be better to say that they are in
crusted on it, and arranged in such a
way as either to form sort of inser-
ton above the bodice, or a large collar.
One or two dressmakers still affect the
half-long sleeves, but, as 1 have said,
the prevailing forthcoming fashions
will see the sleeves long, and indeed
most of the leading houses will not
listen to a word about the other sort.
1t will thus be seen that all tastes will
find satisfaction of some sort. Dresses
will be worn much embroidered with
chenille flowers, and extensively
trimmed with fringes, large beads and
adornments of a similar kind.
Among the shades which found favor
I should mention those tints dear to the
hearts of painters of the Flemish school
that is to say, those heavy and rich
browns that are to be seen in the pic
lures of Rembrandt and Vandych, the
tawny hues, the copper tints and even
old green's. Violet, of various shades,
will also be much in vogue, although
the favorite will be a very pronounced
full-colored one. 1 notice that for
dresses for what may be described as
ceremonious occasions, much crepe de
chine is used, as well as silk muslins.
with designs in velvet and chenille. The
last mentioned materials are quite orig
inal, and very pretty, for the velvet and
chenille designs are woven into the It's
sue They make very rich toilettes, in
deed. Silk and chenille fringes are also
much employed on furs, and form a
luxurious and attractive trimming for
stole or muff.
However, we have not got quite TO
the fur season yet. In the meantime
would like to indicate a charming nov
"
aid Of which corsages and blouses of
the simplest form may be enriched In
an elegant and charming fashion. 1t
takes the bretelle, or brace, form, is in
dependent of the blouse, and is made in
different shapes, according to fancy.
These can be slipped on quickly and in
the easiest manner possible. and trans
form in a tWinkling the plainest of cor
sages into very dressy items of attire.
They may be made of ribbon, of velvet
and net lace, the latter being dyed to
the same color as the former. or they
may be relieved with lace designs, and
trimmed with silk tassels and embroi-
derry. This is a most useful and prac-
teal innovation, and is sure to please
all women, not only by its neatness and
attractiveness, but also by its undoubt-
ed convenience. The other day / saw
one of these things, made of violet rib
bon and net lace. worn over a blouse
Of white linen; and another, formed of
an arrangement of deep green velvet
and rough lace, with pendants and en-
broideries also in green, worn over a
blouse of silk muslin. In both cases
the effect was quite charming.
With evening dress large, soft scarves
of crepe de chine trimmed with fringes
of flowers, are now worn-not the COM
mOnplace artificial flower seen every
day but flowers in taffeta and in silk
muslin, such as our ancestors loved to
wear in the eighteenth century. At the
ends of such scarf Of crepe de chine a
fringe of wistaria may be placed In
varied shades of mauve, the leaves
being simulated in green taffeta A re-
lief of this kind forms symphony of
color soft and harmonious. Roses used
as a fringe of blue tulle give an ideally
fresh effect.
The Greuze ribbon is still In great ia
vor, and for young girls 1t is an ideal
headdress. For example, for girls who |
wear their hair turned back over a
crepon-very full at the sides and rath-
er fat at the top of the head-a large |
wreath may be made of supple wire |
and loosely covered with a length of |
pale blue satin ribbon. The wire must |
be completely covered and the ribbon |
arranged in careless loops, which con- |
vey the idea of being lightly attached |
to the hair with fancy pins. This |
wreath should be placed on the head a |
little to one side and pressed down well |
over the left ear. Just above the ear |
soft blush rose should be placed, with !
a dark leaf or two resting on the hair |
at the back. With a white lace ball /
dress a head6ress of this order is GER
tain of success. Another favorite idea |
is the length of soft liberty ribbon |