The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-09-15
PARIS FASHIONS.
BY MADAME PARoUIN.


Of those of the couturieres, who make
a special study of the morning cos
tune, is the introduction of deep
hem. These hens, which sometimes
extend almost half way up the skirts,
are quite in keeping with the simple
little autumn frocks in thick Shantung,
for which the demand has been sud
denly renewed, and which viii be worn
throughout September, October and
probably November as well; and, ac-
cording to present indications, they
Will be repeated again on the cloth
costumes, in combination with the vel
vet trimmings, which are promised
such a pronounced vogue. The hem is
piped with velvet, and below that oc-
ours a row of tiny velvet buttons ar
ranged in groups of three all round,
as though the Knight of the Shears
when evolving his favorite schemes has
been specially determined not to allow
this particular feature to pass unno-
ticed. Velvet viii, in fact, be used ad
nauseam as the season advances, and
is finding its way into all the new
schemes: and-whether it takes the
form of bands on the skirt. Of buttons,
collars or strappings-it will be as in
evitable as is oil to a salad, or cream
10 a meringue.
According to present indications, a
warm welcome will be accorded this
autumn to the Old-fashioned shade Of
prune, which was high in favor in the
days Of our grandmothers, and which
promises to be just as much in request
this season. In bygone days the gown
of prune silk, discreetly yelled with a
mantle OF Spanish lace, was as popu-
lar in the early sixties as was the tar
latan trimmed ball dress or of the
coiffure decoration composed of a dia-
dem of alternate black and lilac silk
rosettes, sewn to bandeauX of velvet.
This year the coats and skirts of dark
prune cloth will be relieved with waist
coats Of Louis XVI design, in cloth or
cretonne. as the latter is far from be-
ing eliminated from the scheme of au-
tumn attire.
AS regards the shapes of the winter
hats. there appears to be a certain di-
versity of opinion which augurs well
for the woman to whom the huge hat
is anathema, and who has been sorely
put about" to discover a style which
is more becoming TO her cast of fea-
lures. AS a matter Of fact, although
the cloche of tomorrow is in some
cases of mammoth size, many OF the
new examples are quite small, with
dropping brims and higher, rounded
crowns, while the Normandy cap" eff
feet is produced in the case of quite
number of the new mushrooms, and
supply OF picture models of a some
what Rembrandtesque type are like
wise to the fore. In the majority of
shapes the brims viii be soft and
amenable, the possibility of manipulate
ing them to suit the face being one
which is always he'd in view by the
miIliner. Fruit represents a millinerial
trimming concerning which it is impos-
sible to say too much. and during the
autumn the popularity of peaches and
apples as a decoration to the Charlotte
Corday and cloche hats viii be unpre-
cedented, while a great demand will,
besides, be made for giant cob nuts in
brown velvet. which will be allied TO
the hats of stretched brown taffetas or
satin.
All the evening dresses will be cut
round instead of square, while for girls
in their teens the simplest little pic
ture frocks of soft satin will be worn
with Romney fichus folded over the
shoulders and tucked into the deep
belts, the gathered skirts being sewn
with silver French knots all round the
hem, and innocent of any other en-
brOideTy. Black will be worn more than
ever, the plain black Princess dress
being high in favor and carrying all
before it. while the sudden return of
gold" which was so much in reDute
in the eighties, is worthy of mention,
and the Introduction of sleeves of old
gold tulle, touches of satin or velvet
in the same tone, also representing a
special feature of the winter.
The coats will be made in three
quarter form and semi-f1tting, instead
Of the tight-fitting description Of gar
ment which was so high in favor last
winter. while sleeves are being fash
toned in the simplest STYLE the fancifuI
sleeve of yesterday being entirely Civ
en- up by the majority OF taiiOrs
For the most part the collars are
very narrow. sometimes measuring as
little as two inches in width, and as
Stunning the shape of an ordinary roll
collar, or this is substituted with a
narrow strap, mitred at the ends and
caught down with a fat. braid or vel
vet button. In lieu of this, however.
the triple collar is introduced, each
flap being OF a different size, and two
shades being often employed with cap
ital effect, one Of the flaps being fash
toned of velvet.
"Wall1ower brown is a tone which
has been already promised more than
it's share of popularity where the au-
tumn coat is in question, the term COW
erfng considerably more than one gra-
dalton of color, and embracing FIVE or
six different rich tints. from a bright
reddish bronze TO deep velvety hue,
which is by no means so common
Moths wing represents another
brown shade which viii carry all be-
fore ii, and is invariably becoming.
The tatlor-made toilette dearly be-
loved by the best-dressed Parisians of
late is to attain immense fascination
during the coming months, and the
long plain mans coat sleeves is to be
more fashionable than any other type.
That barbarOus plan OF cutting off a
cloth sleeve at the elbows and leaving
the hard and unbecoming line undeco-
rated never was a picturesque achieve
ment, and was banned by the first mo-
distes from its very first appearance.
Many. however, permitted the sleeve
that was cut off midway between the
elbows and the wrists TO be worn, but
even that concession is now to be with
drawn. and the wrist-length sleeve will
prevail. So it will be hurrah for the
long sleeve, and down with the short
one. when autumn changes into winter.
Everything is going to alteri A posi-
tive gulf divides the fashions of the
present and those Of the future. The