Los Angeles herald., 1907-06-09

out; then lay your pattern on the
tucked cloth and lay on the insertion,
medallions or whatever form of trim
ming Is to be used. This is basted care
fully, sewed and cut out underneath.
A great many women are learning to
do the Irish crochet work. and for those |
who do this work the waist described |
below will not be difficult. The entire
waist except collar and cuff bands, is
made of three inch squares of medal |
lions of the lace alternated with squares
of the material laid in fine tucks. The
edges of the tucked squares are
hemmed-rolled, If possible-and over
handed on to the lace. Plan to have
the middle of a row of the squares for
the middle of the front; fasten the
waist in the back, having the button
holes made on f1ypiece, whicE is at
! tached to the under side of the waist,
right side. The bands for the neck and
sleeves are Of stripes of insertion with
a lace edge. This lace work is nice for
pickup work, and 1t is surprising how
| rapidly 1t grows. It is taught in some
of the downtown stores.
| One of the prettiest waists seen late
| ly was made almost entirely OF strips
Of cluny lace insertion, put together
with a small fagoting stitch. For al
waist of this kind ten yards of two and
one-half or three-inch insertion are
needed, and the strips are Joined so as
to run 1engthwise on the waist. A
good sized shoulder plait is laid, so as
! to guarantee plenty of fullness.
| There is a shallow yoke with square
corners, put in on both front and back.
To make this yoke lay the front and
back of your patterns together at the
shoulder seam and trace out the shape
of the yoke, making it five inches deep
| In the front, three and one-half or
four inches deep in the back and seven
- L.alE aa4 a.
| across the bottom. Cut out a pattern
of the yoke Git has no shoulder seam),
and on this pattern baste alternate
strips Of linen tape one-quarter of an
inch wide and strips Of cluny inser-
tion one inch wide, and leave an eighth
inch space between the rows of tape
and insertion. These eighth inch spaces
are filled in with the fagoting stitch.
Lay this yoke in place on the waist,
baste down carefully and cut out the
lace underneath. The outline of the
yoke may be finished in any desired
way. One way which looks we'll is to
stitch the yoke down, after having
turned all the edges in and carefully
basting down, then whipping mar
row lace edge on, so 1t stands out
prettily.
The cuffs and collar are made to
match the yoke, and the body of the
| sleeves is made like the body of the
waist. Both these waists should have
a foundation of china silk, which keeps
1t well in place. These are stylish as
we'll as practical waists, and look ex-
ceedingly we'll with the two-piece suits
Such waists are an acquisition when
travelling for they take up but little
room, do not crush easily and make an
attractive change from the silk or tall
ored waist when worn in a hotel din
ing room for dinner or at the theater.
| A 81
in design is one that washes up well in
pearline or Persian lawn. The broad
band Of insertion which forms q v on
the upper half of the waist and then
extends to the bottom on one side is Of
cluny or imitation Irish point The ma
terial below the lace Is pulled into the
lace, and there are two rows Of narrow
insertion set into the lawn, running
up and down on each side Of the middle.
The treatment of the back of the
waist is particularly pretty. The broad
insertion is used to make a little square
shaped yoke. the lace going into the
shoulder seam exactly meeting the lace
in the front at the shoulder, and the
yoke has mitered corners. The narrow
insertion is put in on both sides OF the
back, the same as in the front. The
sleeves have the broad insertion used
down their length, and the neck and
cuff bands are made of strips Of the
| nairoW insertion ana the material I'm
ished with tiny lace edge
The v shape in the front and the
square in the back are filled in with
the narrow insertion and strips Of the
, lawn running across.
One of the waists is exceedingly
dainty made of cross barred muslin
with small figure or dot in 1t. There
is shoulder plait, and, in addition,
narrow tuckS are put in across each
front nearly the length of the shoulder.
These are stitched down to yoke depth.
There is an inch wide hem down the
front, and buttons and buttonholes are
used. Coming out from the hem on
either side is ruffe of the lawn edged
with narrow lace edge. The sleeves
are full, coming a little over the ell
bow, and are finished with a little
turnback cuff with ruffle matching
| those on the front, going around the
edge and down around the outside cor
ner. A tucked collar band finishes this
waist. Having the ruffled front re-
minds one of the new tailored shirt
waist which is being worn, but this is
so much softer a material that the ef-
feet is quite different. The back can
be tucked to yoke depth or made
plain.
dotted net of a fine quality, cut full
across both back and front. The ma
terial should be cut at least twice the
width of the plain pattern. There is
a little yoke of Valenciennes lace and
hairpin work, bordered by guipure me-
dallions with tiny ribbon rosettes in the
center of each, and below this are
pointed pieces bordered with a narrow
insertion and finished killing of the
net. The sleeves are a little fuller
than any other described so far,
and are prettily trimmed with rib
bon and the net killing. The waist is
lined with chiffon.
And now comes one a little more
elaborate than any of the others The
material used is a fine allover lace,
with the smallest sort of an inset down
the middle of the front and beautifully
shaped of Irish point, this lace also
forming the collar, and the entire
waist is chiffon lined. The modified
jumper effect is made of soft satin
or silk, cut on the bias. In this
instance the satin is delicate green.
edged with tiny chiffon ruching. A
little above the bust the satin is held