davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14

" HE time when caps were set aside ex-
clusiVely for the use of scullery
maids and nurses is no more.
Happily, now they have reclaimed their
own distinction. Caps today rest on a
pedestal from which they proclaim woman 5
unfiinching loveliness.
Even the debutantes and young woman
hood in general have taken to wearing
caps at breakfast and during early morn
ing hours in their rooms. This may have
been brought about through the highly
elaborate style of hairdressng which is
now in vogue. and which is often incon-
venent to manage shortly after the morn
ing tub. These young creatures. however.
have been wise in the choice of the caps
they are wearing before regularly coifing
and gowning themselves for the day.
They are modelled after the caps worn
by Charlotte Corday. and are deiciously
pretty and dainty. No matter how touseled
the tresses may have become during the
night, it is only necessary to gather them
up, pin them at the crown Of the head and
then drop on the cap to achieve smart
appearance. 1t is the work of an instant.
Should few rebellous locks curl pertly
about the nape of the neck or stray from
under the cap and fall about the ears and
cheeks, they but add to its fascination.
The cap itself is so fresh and immaculate
that it does away with any suggestion of
frowsiness.
These Charlotte Corday caps have a
shirred crown of very fine Persian lawn
that stands quite high on the head. From
1t a lace rUtfle hangs at will all about the
head. while joining the crown and the ruff
he a band of ribbon or velvet passes
around, making a smart bow in the front
They are most simple in construction. Ac-
cording to the quality of the lawn and ruff
filing lace. they may, moreover. be made to
suit the pocketbook of womanhood at large
The lace ruffie, however. should never be
omitted from these caps. 1t is in this little
conceit that their Irresistible coquetry lies.
Usually the ribbon wit. which they are
decorated matches in pale pink or blue the
morning gown of their fair wearers Again
the twist and bow is made of black velvet
as harmoniZing with all gowns and colors.
The honeymoon cap, which is indeed one
not to be overlooked. is shaped much like
the Charlotte Corday cap, and amplifed by
it's own little touches of fascination. The
pulled crown is made of Swiss muslin. light
as a bubble, which is then surrounded by
two narrow frills Of plated point desprit.
little beading at the top of these frills
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14
that the general effect is rather simple and
does not even suggest a ball gown.

that the general effect is rather simple and
does not even suggest a ball gown.
X x
There are some models of thcator gowns
that are almost aggressively simple in de-
sign, judging from the first glance. In
reality they are most carefully and elabo-
ratcl worked out and are extremely in
tricate But. then. every woman who
knows about clothes in these days is well
aware of the cost Of aggressive simplicity.
it may well be termed. There'are some
fine light weaves of wolfe and chiffon that
are in great demand for TIE simple evening
gowns. and an odd fad of the moment is
to trim them with braid. either the narrow
soutache sewed In at one edge or the two
combined widths of Hercules braid. The
tnicst Of SILK tassrls and crochet buttons
also find a place in the trimming while no
lace is considered too expensive or costly %
outline The neck. Unlirod in yoke tie lace
is always becoming, and. the waist being
open at the neck, is far cooler ard more
comfortable.
Not amorg the novelties any longer can
b. iEeIEd,d the uaintcd chiffon gowns but
until now the price asked for this Charm
ing fabric hos PCT it beyond ths reach of
the great majority, 50 that the fashion
Las not b.c"nc too popular. There is
SOM. thing .!s,iH&'5aE.y appropriate. to the
season n ti,s. -na,-E. the delicate. color
lucS aai drsfsas seeming To be IN such
mary luuS accord wiki urc and the
woman 9hn lpr-s tin, 81 .ua.na ot a,,.rs has
now ~ -ua>auu'. . OF uertu1i'y t" r,Eol in
Strang" c".lh5aatrr= uf u"uyo ana blue
or pink thn uad rtpu- of gray 81 white
serving as q most ar.t=l.c i'm aground.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14

Little by little does the foreign fashion
of the gown open al tie neck worn at the
play or dining in public. gain favor The
fashion is one that is so easily made vul-
gar and spcUoUs that 1t Is not to oe
rashly attempted. but when properly used
has much to recommend it. If the neck
be not cat too low the Dutch collar or V
shape effect is much more attractive when
not exaggerated. and either a jeweed dog
collar or band Of velvet or satin ribbon
giy=s Il becoming finish. 1t is certainly far
cool r and more comfortable to have tAe
gown finished in this way than with high
honed and lined collar. If so desired. there
can be transparent collar of lace or
chiffon, and then with a picture hat the
entire costume seems in keeping.
There would seem to be little or no diff
ference in tn" materials used in ball gowns
OF in these Informal evening gowns. and
with the neck cut low the points of re-
seDhldnce are even more marked but Just
here ~ where the trained eye of the fashion
artist makes a -ine distinction and evolves
such a subtle cleverness that never for one
moment can H." old ball gown be utilized
to make the tLcater or restaurant gown.
The transparent fabrics always seem so
suitable for summer, and this season there
ar SO many different designs and colors to
choose from that 1t is possible to have an
endless variety Of this style of gown. The
fine nets and gauzes. marquisettes and
chiffuus are TO be had in the plain colors
and patterns or with light or heavy work
upon them. \ charmingly dainty gown
OF white net, with crystal drops not too
near together and a deep embroidered band
of crystal beads and paillettes. is quite as
I'LL 81, bn
also as elaborate In detail. At the same
time So Clsyerly is the design worked out
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14

of this description this summer how the
lines of the empire fashions have found
favor, and most charming and satisfactory
have been the results.
strict adherence to the empire model
has been proved too trying a fashion for
the majority of women. but this idealZed
rendering of the model can be arranged
for almost any or every sort of figure,
while the transparent fabrics made up over
the heavier Innings give an opportunity for
the outline of the figure to be shown by
tie fitted lining. or, if d =sired, to be
disguised BY the correct disposition Of the
folds of the thin material.
Striped materials that were so popular
this spring We're when they first came INTO
fashion, made up in numbers for the sort
of gown suitable for dining in public or
going to the play. Striped silks-black and
white or two-toned siIks-wcre and are very
smart. Will the wolfe or thin fabrics in
stripes. rather cooler looking than the silk
ana Conscou .nty more appropriate for
warm weather. are still in style. All white
gowns are never out Of fashion and never
look otherwise than appropriate in the
evening but the last two seasons have not
been so universally worn as the pale pastel
shades that now come in such an infinite
variety oc color and tone.
TrtTmmcd skirts. as has been said are
popular and yet tn. re are among tie new
est models many trimmed skirts that are
most effective and becoming. The bias fold
or folds Of rCau d. sole or liberty satin
show TO great advantage in almost any ma
terial but combine best with net chiffon or
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14
Teachers of Gymnastics.

A writer the subject says that. afte,
a few years experience and wifi Tie aid
of little capital. a student Of gymnastics
might establish a gymnasium and training
school, for which there is daily an lncreas-
ing need and demand. Some teachers de-
vote themselves entirely to medical eXer-
cises and massage, and If one becomes well
known to prominent doctors this is most
profitable branch of the profession. and
the Lancet in recent issue speaks In the
most encouraging terms of its usefulness.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14
Suggestions for the Plump Woman.

~ HE plump woman finds herself more
at disadvantage in summer than
at any other time of year. In the
cooler weather heavy cloth suits. tight
fitting waists which match the skirt, elabo-
:ately lined evening frocks all do much to
keep her plumpness within bounds. But In
the summer. when loosely-ftting unboned
garments are In vogue, when the shirt
waist and the herufffed cotton afternoon
gown flourish. and the short stiff skirt of
linen or pique is decreed by fashion as
the proper garment for all to wear, then
does the plump woman suffer a thousand
asonies 1t is not only in the flesh either
that she is so doomed during the heated
season although she finds herself growing
red and oily and breaking out with prickly
heat while her thin sister remains calmly
cool smooth OF skin and reddens only with
becoming sunburn. But besides these diff
iculties of personal discomfort the plump
woman has also to contend against the
ever present consciousness of sartorial alb
surdities of which she is bound to be guilty
unless restrained and instructed by the
most vigilant good taste.
The fact of the matter is. If she Is care
full of her style OF dressing a plump woman
may be just as attractive in summer as a
thin one. What she has principally to
consider is that she shall appear as a
plump woman not stout woman or a
fat woman. For while plump woman is
attractive and suggests dimples. good ma
ture. pleasant curves and similar fascina-
tons a stout woman Is a heavy. cumber-
some creature. without charm. and as for
the fat woman. she is quite impossible
Instead of attractive curves she suggests
unpleasant rolls OF flesh. and she recalls
dreadful recollections of loose. unbelted
relaxation. crowded trolley cars, prickly
heat and similar unhappiness.
To avoid all possibilities OF such sug-
gestions the plump woman must in the frs,
place keep UP her exercises we'll enough
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14

ing from top to bottom there is band at
the waist line, which not only. makes a
firmer belt than would an ordinary prin-
cess. but also makes it possible to shape
both skirt and waist of the garment more
exactly.
One more way in which the plump woman
may improve her appearance is by having
the Innings of diaphanous frocks made OF
the softest cotton or Of crepe de chine In
stead of silk.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14
Partisan Footwear

Partisan fashion is rigid in regard 20
footwear this season. Last autumn a new
shade of a beautiful golden brown appeared
In glazed kid. and II was adopted on sight
by those of discriminating taste American
women returning from Paris have had
shoes made in the desirable color. and deal
ers everywhere are beginning to put them
In stock. 1t Is sensible fad because
glazed kid is practically waterproof and
the shade Is an unobtrusive color, harmon
izing with all color combinations popular
in this seasons costumes
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14
White Shoes.

White buckskin shoes are needed Tor all
white costumes. This last leather Is some
what more expensive than kid or canvas.
but in the end far the most economical
for it keeps its shape never discolors and
cleanses to perfection. AS long as there Is
anything left in a buckskin shoe its appear
ance Is trig and smart.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14

artist dressmaker. and nothing is more
hopelessly doWdy and old fashioned than q
black gown enlivened CD by some strange
monstrosity of jet passementerie or orna-
mentation. The gown would, indeed be far
smarter without the jet. But the smart
gown with the jet worked onto the ma
terial and with the applique of white lace
on the waist and around the foot of the
skirt never goes entirely out of fashion
and always seems to be just the right thing
to wear. These gowns are not for the
economically minded, and yet are invariably
good investments, for their tenure of life
is long. and they can be fashioned only
by an expert retain their look of style and
beauty a marvelously long time.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14

to make her flesh firm even if she finds 1t
impossible to reduce her avoirdupois: she
must also make strenuous onslaught on her
double chin and never rest until it is re-
duced to reasonable proportions and until
the muscles are hard enough to keep 1t
from sagging. She must battle in warm
water throughout the hot weather in order
to make her skin less oily; she must be
lavish with talcum powder and she must
use a dry hair tonic II her hair has the
qualities which usually abide in the hair Of
a plump woman. She may also be quite
sure of keeping herself in good proportion
even If she be plump by the bending exer-
cises which reduce the hips and stomach.
Then there the clothes to consider.
In the first place the plump woman
SHOULDN'T try to look too girlish. slen-
DER woman will look well in almost Juvenile
azure "hlch would make a plump woman
VI inc same age look ridiculous. At the
same time the plump woman who is still
young should avoid the obviously matronly
She should strike a happy mean between
the youthful and the mature.
She shouldn't wear Peter Pan s,,,., ~
Peter Thompson suits or sailor suits or
anything which would call down upon her
the derisive comment that she looked so
girlish.''
Picturesque styles also must be generally
avoided. Not for the plump woman are
the large picture hats with huge plumes
trailing down the back. These only &C
centuate her plumpness and call attention
to her short neck and over rounded Shout
ders plump woman in large befumed
hat sometimes looks almost deformed.
Other picturesque styles are equally OBJ
jectionable. The empire dress is an i'm
possibility for the plump woman: pic
turesque boas in feathers and chiffon only
add to her bunchiness. Befrilled top coats
which would make thin girl look like a
gorgeous swaying blossom simply reduce
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14

Black lace. that most difficult problem to
deal with has this year been lavishly and
cleverly handled, and entire black lace
gowns, most charming and becoming, have
been turned out by the score, while those
of lace and net chiffon combined have
made their appearance under entirely new
and very attractive guise. 1t has been and
is very fashionable to make up thin black
GOWNS white or coiored Innings, and
certainly the pattern of the lace shows off
to greater advantage over the colored lin
ing than all black. bat there is a certain
light airiness of texture and a complete
finished appearance in the all-back gown
that appeals strongest to conservative
taste, while it is easily possible to tighten
the too somber effect with touch of bright
color or some ceverly disposed jet.
This last statement must not be taken
too literally. for jet is another of the prob
lams with which it is almost impossible
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14

In the matter of belts, the plump woman
should be more particular. AS often as
possible she should wear black or dark
belts very narrow and of pliable ma
terial. She should never wear broad BELTS
Princess underdresses are q boon to the
fat woman. The unfortunate being who
has tried reducing in vain is obliged to
consider every extra fold OF CLOTH even
every gather about her waist She Is
obliged to be grateful for any device which
will save her from the increased thickness
of waist end and skirt bands. The princess
underdress not only does this, but it fits so
perfectly and Is 30 especially devised for
creating the effect OF a long waist that the
intelligent dressmaker insists upon her stout
customers wearing 1t for all their costumes,
whether they are Of one or Of two pieces.
Many women wear them altogether now in
place Of corset covers and skirts.
At first these one-piece underdresses
were made only of silk. but now they are
made of lawn, batiste. &c. 1t is best not
to have the material too fllmsy, however.
and, indeed, for most occasions silk with
lace insertions and lingerie ruff1e makes
an ideal underdress for the stout woman.
These garments are not only neat about
the waist but they are, many of them
made very high busted. The fit should be
perfection. and if this Is so nothing could
be better for making the stout woman look
neat than these garments. The waist fits
tightly, goes well up under the arms and
over the bust 1t Is cut only as low as the
ordinary Dutch neck. but is round instead
of square neck.
The garment, although all in one piece.
is not in many cases. strictly speaking. a
princess. for instead Of the parts extend
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14

the plump woman to a shapeless bundle of
fine clothes.
Sweet simplicity in costuming is also to
be avoided by the plump woman. This
does not mean that really fine simplicity
is wrong. because quite the opposite is
true. But the unsophistfcated style of
garment which in shape or coloring i'm
presses the note of an ingenious simplicity
Is generally to be reserved for the woman
of flower-like face and figure. For in
stance. pale blue lawn trimmed with a
little lace Is charming afternoon frock
for a certain type of girl, but for a plump
woman 1t would be a dangerous mistake.
The plump woman should avoid pale
blue Of all colors. Nothing could be bet
ter than black for evening wear. Also a
fine striped black and white and other fine
stripes, as lavender and white, &C., are
becoming. White. If made properly. is not
unbecoming: dark blue and dark green are
usually becoming; gray. especially pale
gray. makes the figure larger, as do all
shades of red.
Soft clinging materials are most becom-
ing to the plump woman. Tafeta silk Is
Mohair and veillngs or foulard silks are
much better. Crepe de chine and chiffon
are more becoming for evening than the
brocades or Powered silks, Plain or striped
materials or those with very small all-over
designs are better than those having large
figures. plaids or large checks.
A plump woman should never wear a
short skirt, no matter how much in fash
ion they are. II her skirt is trimmed it
should be in up and down lines or around
the bottom. Putting the trimming around
haif way up will take from the height.
Inc skirt should be very tight-ftting
around the hips but should have a very de-
cided slope outward below this
The plump woman looks we'll usually in
high-heele shoes. She should avoid open
work stockings Of any sort. She should
never wear white stockings. Fine black
silk stockings, ribbed. or with a little en-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14

In Stockholm one person in six is a tele,
phone subscriber.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14

broidery, are the best which she can
choose.
In selecting the gloves the plump woman
ought to be careful that the upper parts
are large enough to wrinkle little. The
long glove which fits perfectly tight makes
the plump woman's arm look like that Of a
kid bodied doll
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-14

of this description this summer how the
lines of the empire fashions have found
favor, and most charming and satisfactory
have been the results.
Evening journal. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1907-1913, 1907-12-17
welded FQRTY-N|NE YEARS
MR.. AND MRS. A. 7. RUSSLER
OBSERVED ANNIVERSARY.
Venerable Couple Passed Anniver-
sary Quietly at Their Home In
This City on Monday.

Mr.. and Mrs. A. r. Russler, of
East Liberty street, this city, had
the unusual distinction of observing
the 10th anniversary of their marri-
age at their home on Monday, and
observed the occasion in a quiet but
fitting manner. In the evening Mr..
Russler put the finishing touches to
the celebration by doing some extra
work at his office, at the conclusion
of which he announced that he felt
as young as ever.
Mr., and Mrs, Russler were married
at the home of her parents in this
county, and have passed a very happy
married life. She was a Miss Gather
inc Elizabeth Wolf, daughter Of the
late Mr.. and Mrs. Michael Wolf, and
a native of York county, Pa. They
have had nine children, seven Of whom
are living, Mr. Russler confesses to
Il years, but Is yet hale and hearty
as is his wife, and their friends pre-
dict and hope for many more wed
.ding anniversaries,
Evening journal. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1907-1913, 1907-12-17
Ministers Of The City Decide TO
Take Action on Sunday.
ARRANGE FOR WEEK or PRAYER
Services Will Commence Monday
Evening, January 8, and Continue
Until January IL, Inclusive
Notes of Meeting.

An important meeting of the Min
isterial association Of this city was
held this morning at the Presbyterian
manse, at which time it was decided
10 take an active part in the work of
relief for the widows and orphans at
Monongah, and 1t was further decid-
.ed that a special collection be taken
up in the several churches of the city
next Sunday or the following Sunday,
and that the funds thus received be
placed in the hands of Mr. George s.
Hill cashier Of the Old National bank,
TO be forwarded
The association decided to hold all
the union services during the COM
ing week OF prayer in the First Meth
odist Episcopal church. The week OF
prayer services will begin Monday
evening, January 6, and continue until
Sunday evening, January II. The Of
fering on the last evening of the week
/. Of prayer will be devoted to the
American Bible society and credited
to each church represented.
Rev. Or +. M. Woods, president OF
the association, and Rev. Charles S.
Trump, the secretary, were appointed
committee to select topics and APP
point the speakers.
The ministers approved OF con-
templated meeting OF the Sunday
school workers. to be held In this city
on Monday evening, February !, and
Tuesday, February 4, and decided to
invite the clergy OF the county to
hold a joint conference with the min
listers of the city on the first Monday
in January at the parsonage Of Trinity
library in the parsonage Of Trinity
Methodist Episcopal church, south.
The ministers who were present at
the meeting this morning were the
following:
Rev. r. NJ. Woods, pastor Of the
Presbyterian church.
Rev. DIR. l. w. Canter, pastor Ct
Trinity Methodist Episcopal chIrca,
'corth
Rev. j Q. Wrigntscn, pastor Of the
First Methodist Episcopal church.
Rev c. G. Waite. pastor of the Win
chester Avenue Christian church.
Rev. William D. Mccurdy, pastor
Of the First Baptist church.
Rev. John S. Douglas rector of
Trinity Episcopal church.
Rev. Charles S. Trump, pastor OF st.
Johns Lutheran church.
Evening journal. [volume] (Martinsburg, W. Va.) 1907-1913, 1907-12-17
TO BUILD SKATING RINK
DEAL FOR LOT WAS COMPLETED
HERE THIS AFTERNOON.
Winchester and Hagerstown Parties
Secure Lots on South Queen Street
For That Purpose.

q Mr. r. .N.r Henry, of Winchester an
Mr.. Richard Hartle, of Hagerstowr
this afternoon concluded a deal witt
the owners of the Cunningham pro
perty, on South Queen street, neai
the dry bridge, whereby the forme
have secured possession of two lots
60 by 1876 feet. on which they wi
erect a first-class and up-to-date skat
ing rink Immediately.
Contracts for the building will b
let at once, and workmen are ex
pected to commence work tomorros
morning. The rink will be complet
in every detail, and when finish
will be a model in-eyery respect.
Mr.. Henry recently completed
fine rink In Winchester, and is al
experienced man in this particulai
line. His partner, Mr. Hartle, will b
well remembered In this city as tn
manager of the Hagerstown base bal
club. It is expected to have thu
rink in operation within few weeks