Waterbury evening Democrat., 1907-05-11

Japan has conquered the world Of fashion. Evidently to conquer is the privilege of this country-anyway just now it seems its metier. The world of dress is in arms to receive it, lit erally up in arms, for every sleeve bears traces of the Japanese in its ex- tensive width and limited length, and all the cloaks hang kimono-wise from the shoulders, while embroidery runs riot on garments of every description. Not necessarily Japanese in design, l admit, but still the world of fashion takes immense pride in its embroidery of many colors, caring little from which country its patterns may be in spired, and amongst many successes in cloaks I would chronicle one of black net lined with soft silk and chif- fon, trimmed with embroideries of many scolors. alternating with designs of cut cretonne, worked round with ribbons and gold thread. A gorgeous garment of much elegance-and much expense. .r .E ....
 Nearly all of the short-waisted dresses worn last winter were made in a sort of semi-princess style. The bod ice portion was tight-fitting and the skirt half-corslet, half princess. Now quite a different outline Is in favor; the waist line is placed about three inches higher than it really ought to be, and the skirts are, for the most part, slightly gathered. I am now speaking of afternoon and evening dresses. Happily for the tailor-made morning, costume, our waists are still permitted to retain their correct place and outline. t@.-
 It is hardly necessary for me to point out that a gathered skirt, ar ranged in a short-waisted manner, is capable of making its wearer decid- edly bunchy. Only an exceptionally slender figure can carry of one of these costumes with perfect grace, and one trembles to think of the possibil- ities of the future.
 The mitten sleeve is rapidly coming into favor, and Redfern must be given the credit of reviving this charm. ing fashion. and he is now making the best use of it.
 It is quite surprising to note the rapidity with which this particular re- . vival has dashed into favor with the Parisiennes. A month or two ago the sleeves on all the best dresses were quite short, rarely covering the elbow Now we are rushing to the other extreme. and are gladly welcoming sleeves which extend well over the wrist.
 For summer blouses semi-short sleeves will still be very fashionable. but for voile and crepe de chine dresses we shall adopt sleeves ar ranged in soft puffs from shoulder to elbow and finished of with tight un- der-sleeve which extends right over the wrist in graceful curve.
 On some ot the smart little lace and cloth coatees I have noticed exceed ingly sho:t sleeves. so short that they only reach half way between the shoulder and elbow. But the intention is that these eoatees shall be worn over an elaborate blouse which boast. ed the sleeves which have described. the single puffs and tight mitten fall ing over the wrists.
 The little coatees of which am now speaking are Japanese in outline. and particularly effective when made of real Japanese materials. I have al- ready warned my readers against plac- ing too much faith in the ubiquitous kimoao sleeve. because by reason of it's popularity it is doomed to early death.
 The dress shown on the right of our large illustration is a variation of the popular style of the moment, and is es- pecially becoming to the maidenly wearer. Such a dress is equally suitable and smart for brides maids wear or for home dinner or concert party. Soft satin mousseline is. of of course. the ideal fabric for it's making. the pinafore straps of the bodice being edged with a little kilted frill and being crossed over a softness of lace and net, pale rose pink or turquoise blue making very effective contrast with ivory lace. though. of course. an all white gown is always charming for a girl In any case the chosen color should be repeated in the band and bow of satin. finishing of the elbow sleeves. uhife a ribbon to match can be twisted in