Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1907-07-27
SEEING THE SELAML|K
An Americans Visit to ConStan-
tinopIe, City of Intrigues.
THE SULTAN AT WORSHIP
Weekly Religious Exercises at Mosque
Brilliant Spectacle.
DISPLAY A FEATURE
Royal Turkish Troops Present Cor
geous Appearance and Compare Fa-
vorably With European Armies.

Special Correspondence of The Star.
CONSTANTINOPLE.J July 10, 1907.
Rumors again circulate from this cesspool
OF international intrigues. Constantnople.
or course, Sultan Abdul Hamid III is the
center of the discussion.
1t was said in a recent dispatch somewhat
whimsically that the sultan is not exempt
from purdah Now. purdah is the veil or
covering which Mohammedan women wear
and literally means a curtain. The saying
signifies that there is no curtain to the
sultans loneliness. His isolation is in pub
lie, and that makes it SO intensely inter-
esting.
The personality OF the sultan is unques-
tionably the most interesting of all the SOW
ereigns of the present day. He lives in
his splendid isolation supposedly prey TO
his fears of those who surround him. and
certainly target for the non Moslem
world Since he is said to be very human
he can hardly fail to derive some satisfac-
ton from the SILVER which the specter of
pan-Islamism gives his former great and
good friend John Bull. Whether it is in
Egypt, in Tripoli. in India or in some far-off
Garner where the followers of the prophet
dwell and acknowledge some kind of sub
lection to British rule, there is always this
shadow and the whispers OF fanatical out
breaks. There is also the undoubted and
indisputable fact that "a the present time
the kaiser is the Sultan's great and good
friend and German influence is predominant
with the porte.
America Not in It.
American influence has not been con-
cerned with the commercial rivalres of the
European nations, and it is these CONNER
cial rivalries which are at the bottom of
Of fba
doing at Constantinople. The United States
has some vexing questions usually relating
to the schools and the missionaries Or to
the abuses of our naturaliZati ton laws. But
since We have no greed for Turkish terri
tory and since our commercial enterprise
is very moderate the causes of irritation
are not deep seated and usually are removed
by patiently and persistently pressing the
grievances on the sultan. Greater CONNER
cial enterprise on our part would be well
come, and Americans themselves are not
dislked.
The sultan has on several occasions come
20 the United States to secure specialists
for the instruction of his own officials. One
of these was a geological expert from
Washington. He found a good deal to do
and went about it, and, unlike some foreign
employees, had no trouble collecting his SAL
airy. But this geologist was enthusiast.
and when he discovered that the Turkish
government was fully satisfied with having
him in its employ and did not care to follow
up his recommendations for doing some
thing he resigned.
Another American who is very popular
Is in the navy. His great achievement was
in ordering the Turkish fleet out to prac-
tice. The fact of such an order in itself
would cause establishment. but the more
astonishing thing was that the American
succeeded in getting the ships out, and the
fleet is said to have made creditable dis
play. This. however. is not expected to
happen often. though the American is said
to be doing some remarkable work in giving
the Turkish navy standing.
Attends the Selamlik
My personal impressions of the sultan and
his subjects were formed under what was
perhaps the most favorable circumstances.
1t was on the occasion of the selamlik or
weekly worship. when the spiritual and
temporal head Of the Moslem world goes
to the mosque to pray Generally week
is required for the formalities which are
necessary in order to get a permit to wit
ness this ceremony, but Ambassador Leish-
man, through some alchemy, secured the
permit late one night and messenger
from the embassy Weakened me at . o. clock
in the morning with note informing me
that if l cared TO go the kyVas or embassy
guard would be pleased to accompany me.
or course 1 cared to go, and the next morn
ing at 10 left the embassy in company with
the kyvas.
1t is a long drive from Pera or the Chris
tan section of Constantinople out to the
sultan's palaces at Yildiz. which are at
once a citadel and residence The great
rectangular structure of the German en-
bassy occupying a dominating position on
one of the hills is about half way to Yildiz,
and it's situation is reluctantly admitted by
the kaiser's rivals to typify Germany's
commanding position at the porte
1t had been week of very disagreeable
weather. alternating between snow and
rain. and the streets were ankle deep with
mud but the sky cleared overhead and
there was promise of fair day. Usually
Friday, which is the Mohammedan Sunday
and therefore the time of the celebration
Of the selamlk. 1 was assured. turns out
to be fair. no matter how bad the weather
has been during previous days or how bad
1t becomes during the subsequent days.
A Brilliant Spectacle.
The streets were filled with marching
troops, all proceeding to- the palaces. At
Yildiz on the terrace which was set aside
for the few privileged visitors Turkish Of
ficer examined my permit, asked my name
in French. and mOtioned me TO place
There were about a score Of visitors, in
Gliding three or four of the ambassadors
and ministers. several attaches and a num-
Der of European ladies. The grouped spec
tators from the terrace had q magnificent
view of the Bosphorus and the mosques Of
Constantnople, but splendid as the sight
attending the selamlik.
A long line of cavalry came over the dis
tant hills and swung down the road at an
easy gallop, the squadrons forming with
the white mounts in front and the black
horses Immediately behind, the bay and
chestnut horses being in the rear. The red
javelln standards floated as the squadron
formed; the troopers wore black astrachan
caps. l had supposed that the turban
the feZ was the universal headdress, but
this was not go. specialized negro
colonel in command of one detachment was
a reminder of the lack of race discrimina-
ton in the Mohsmmedan world
Pretty soon infantry was detiling from all
quarters and the bands playing. The in
fantry, I noticed, wore the red feZes, but
there was one company with green flleted
turbans. The most snowy lot was the
guards who wore white brocaded breeches.
The Turkish army ia said never to be paid
and often to be in rags, but this is not
true of tie regiments which form the I'm
perial Guard and which are quartered in
Constantinople. On show occa slons at least
they would compare with the European
army.
Have European Officers.