Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, 1907-07-14
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White linen coat and skirt suits look
best untrimmed, when they form part OF
a mourning outfit. and are finished with
neatly tailored cuffs and collars. 1t Is
well to have the coats loose as the half
fitting models are apt to lose their shape
when Numbered The skirts may be plait-
ed according to the fancy of the wearer
or may be OF circular shape with broad
hem surmounted by several rows OF
stitching. If a less expensive material
than linen is preferred. Indian-head cot
ton makes very good substitute. For
jumper frocks, lonsdale cambrics In the
thicker qualities are excellent. The para
sol carried with these frocks should be
of white linen or pongee, absolutely plain
and over a white frame work.
White serge, English and sicillienne
suits and beach coats are severely tailor
ed and provided with detachable collars.
cuffs and pocket-haps of dull silk. These
garments should invariably be unlined
so that they may be readily Numbered.
For seaside use they will be found most
serviceable.
White crepe gowns for ceremonious oc-
casions are made up In precisely the
same manner as are those of black crepe.
The skirts are usually long and slie ntly
trimmed with bias bands, and the waists
are high-necked and ng-sleeved, as dur
ing the first periods of mourning 1t is
not considered good form to display the
arms and throat. Many women, however,
prefer white wolfe to crepe, In which case
the skirt may be trimmed with six gradu-
ated folds of white crepe and the waist
with large and small folds.
Black and white or white and black
constitute second mourning. The various
black gowns may then be relieved by
white accessories and the white by black
ribbons At this period all the dotted
ell ouaflo hrrf
not shred of lace or embroidery as
garnishing.
Black chiffon makes comfortable warm
weather evening gown, made simply with
deep tucks or deep ruf1es about the bot
tom of the skirt Dull ribbons may be
set upon the waist in rows, relieved by
entire deux or tiny tucks, the same idea
being carried out in the elbow sleeves.
Fine black muslins are the next and
practically the only transparent substi-
tute for chiffon as black lawns nearly
always fade into a green or grayish hue
and scarcely pay for their making.
Tailored shirtwaists can be made OF
either butchers or fine linen. They look
well in surplice style or with broad box
paits front and back, or with a. V-shaped
neck, the right side buttoning far over
the left, finished with a collar similar to
that on a mans waistcoat. the space at
the throat filed in with a tucked muslin
chemisette. Other waists designed for
mourning are of plain fine lawn, laid In
mutitudinous fine tucks, bands and hem
stitched edges. Or they may have turn
over collars and turn-back cuffs, finished
with rows of stitching and slightly
starched, and during second mourning
black tie may be knotted under the
collar Some of the tucked waists are
diversified by rows OF hemstltcnlng.
either black or white, between the tucks,
and again only the collar and cuffs are
so treated. ~
When 1t is necessary to lift the skirt
great care should be taken not to display
q petticoat of a contrasting hue. During
first mourning the petticoat should be OF
lusterless silk or of thick lawn, and for
second mourning, black and white stripes
or checks, or plain black with white
pipings.
because 1t Is deemed unsanitary and
also injurious to the eye the long crepe
veil Is rapidly losing ground. Yet whether
1t be of gauze or thick chiffon its crepe
border denotes to the initiated The pre-
else stage Of the wearer's grief. For the
first three months widows veil carries
an inch border, the next three half-inch
border, and thenceforward decreases In
width until 1t is merely a piping. After
the crepe bordered veil is thrown back
over the hat, the face veil is Of fsh-net.
chiffon or Brussels, and need not have
border.
The hat worn beneath the veil is OF
slight Importance, and may be OF crepe,
chiffon, silk muslin or horsehair. When
the veil is discarded fine straws trimmed
with lusterless ribbons. net and chiffon
are correct, and for knockabout use in the
country the coarse straw with quilts or
the white canvas sailors with lusterless
bands.
Black and white suede gloves are cor
rect for first mourning. and in warm
weather those of suede silk, which wear
we'll and launder satisfactorily. During
second mourning the same kind OF gloves
may display contrasting stitchings and
buttons.
Supplementary cuffs and collars are OF
dotted and plain Swiss, net and lawn
They have broad hens and one tuck or
tiny tucks in clusters, or are merely hem
stitched.
Handkerchiefs. like wells. mark the
period of mourning by their border.
Pocketbooks and handbags come In lus-
terless kid and alligator, with clasps and
framework to match "A silver or gold
purse is incorrect for the first few months
of mourning.