The daily morning journal and courier., 1907-08-24
THE SLEEVES
 ARE THE THING
No Matter How Smart the Gown, Sleeve Must Be
 Smarter.


 the many developments of fancy sleeves that are seen on the up-to-date frock. Never were there so many be- wildering varieties and I presume that the general adoption of the guimpe dress is largely responsible for this. To-day, almost without exception, dresses and separate blouses are made with guimpe and the more elaborate the sleeve the smarter the gown. h. deed, shops are showing dresses made up on long, straight lines, almost void of trimming, yet with sleeves so tntri- cate and elaborate that no one but an artist could develop them. A fash ionable modiste told me the other day that every pair of sleeves going out of her house represented two days work for which she paid girl $3 day, making the cost of a pair of sleeves without the material involved S6.
 The short sleeve has had long lease on fashions demand, but now we are told that with cold weather the long sleeve will meade the shops. However, it is vet to be seen, and for certain frocks the short sleeve will al- ways be worn. The fullness of the up- to-date sleeve has been transferred from the shoulder to the elbow and now sleeves seem to droop from the shoulder, being exceedingly full at the cuff, In evening frocks the sleeve should come we'll above the elbow, in blouses that are for general wear they should cover the joint and for rough and-ready wear the sleeves should be full length. For outer garments all most all sleeves are three-quarter lengths, save in the extreme tailor made gowns calling for the full length sleeve.
 The frock proper should have a suggestion of an oversleeve, many of them being slashed up the outside to show the beauties of the undersleeve which is attached to the guimpe. An other pretty idea is to turn back the corners of this outer sleeve and hold them in place with tiny bows of rib bon or handsome buttons. Then again these points are braided or ombroid- cred Perhaps the most popular form [ of undersleeve is thet made of row upon row of lace Fufiles. It is better to have this luce plaited rather than shirred, and these rows of llce should be sewed on chiffon foundation, and at the cuff have many Title bows fid- den in among the folds. As for trim mings, buttons, tiny bows of ribbon. embroidery and braiding are at pres ont at the top of popularity's wave.
 The blouscs pictured to-day will 1 help the home sewer with ideas of smart-looking garments to prepare for her fall wardrobe, and are suited for many occasions. The blouse with the chemisette effect is exceedingly smart made of dark silk, trimmed with silk buttons and edged with a piping, The fancy blouse with the deep lace yoke gives opportunity for the very newest style of trimming-I mean braiding-- and can be developed in haavler goods such as lightweight cloth or heavy silk This model is particularly be- coming to a stout figure. The over bdouse, or modified form of jumper, Is most attractive made up in softer silks, such as lousine, messaline, etc. trimmed with the tiny bows of which I speak few velvet buttons and the lace guimpe Make your sleeves in every instance just as elaborate as you please, the more so the better.
 I Cashmere as a material for house gowns is again greatly in demand and for such purposes nothing is more attractive than the shirred princess model. A girl who was too tall and angular to wear the fitted princess welcomes this model and she could look a long time before she you'd find one more becoming. Here is the simple dress, with little trimming, save to finish off the waist portion, and the opportunity to make an elaborate guimpe and dainty sleeves, Put all your work on the sleeves, inset them with medallions, join them together with fancy stitches introduce cord ings shirrings, what you will and as much as you will, and your sleeve will give your whole dress distinct style This shirred dress can of course, be evolved from crepe de chine, mar quisette or silk voile, but I refer to cashmere as an inexpensive material which can be procured in dainty col brings and which is within the purse of almost every one. Then spend your money to buy handsome material ot fancy weave to make the guimpe and sleeves. All shades of blues and cer- tain tones of yellow for the blondes; raspberry soft browns and yellows fo1 the brunettes are the popular shades for fall house dresses. Novelty silks that are always good taste and most serviceable run largely to striped ef- fleets and voiles of all varieties are much worn.
 But in making your fall clothes dc not neglect the sleeves, for 1t IS the feature par excellence of the smart frocl--it tells plainer than anything else that your dress is of this seasons make and the woman never lived that didn't want to be well-dressed.
 ftl% aF Nanr HleunS,