The Washington times., 1907-01-31

1 a pad is needed 1ust below the shoulder
blade. which. OF course, will vary in
size. Ii should be made Of cotton wad-
ding cut in half moon shapes, and
! stitched TO a piece OF cambric OF the
same shape. The best way 10 do this is
10 make the pad before hitting the cam
/ brio lining, and pin 10 the dress when
/ fitting the lining. moving Il until il is In
/ the right position to give pretty round
10 the figure
/ II the cloth is OF light weight, the
| whole back should be canvassed. but II
| OF heavy weight it viii be sufficient 10
cut three inch deep shaped pieces to out
lire the neck and arm holes. If an in
teTlininE Is required for warmth use a
felt or French flannel. and let Il go
across the back TO the under arm seams.
For a stout figure cut a piece Of tail
or's canvas which has been shrunk for
the front OF the coat. allowing II 10 eX-
tend over the shoulder and top OF the
bust, and around the arm holes. Three
inches below the arm holes at the under
arm seams. slope the canvas out 20 the
dart at the waist line and from there
let IL run in straight piece 10 the bot
tom of the coat.
Collar Difficult.
The most dinicult part Of tailoring is
the collar. Cut both the canvas and
cloth from the pattern. being careful 10
mark the perforations that indicate
where IL turns over Run a row of
machine stitching along the line just
marked, 50 as not 10 loose the outline.
Where the Tsvers turn over the canvas
and cloth must be held together with
all aHffn oil fH
vas up. and take large stitches on that
side. barely catching IL TO the cloth with
small stitches. and being careful that
they do not show through on the right
side Trim the edges OF the canvas OF.
turn the cloth over Il and baste and
press. Baste the collar on the coat. with
the canvas side up. II the collar is a
notched one. let the ends meet the tlrn-
over lapels at the top OF the front. II II
Is a shawl collar. 10 is Joined 20 the
fronts Try on TO see whether the coll
lar sets properly, and. II not. either
shrink or stretch IL as is needed.
II IL Is 10 be stretched. lay damp
cloth over the material and as you pass
q hot iron over IL pull In the direction
required To shrink IL. lay damp
cloth on Il and pucker the cloth up as
the iron is passed over IT, The collar
and front facings are cut In one: this
so-called collar facing IS really the top
OF the collar. II il s. TO DE cut from
the cloth 10 must be taken from
the width OF the material but II it is
70 be OF velvet Il must be without a
seam. II OF velvet the raw edges are
turned over the canvas and cat-stitched
fiat TO the collar.
Front Faeings Of Cloth.
The pieces intended for the front fac
ings are always Of cloth and must ex-
tend from two to three inches beyond
he front edge OF the coat Unless a
special piece for this purpose comes In
the pattern. the facing Is cut by the
front OF the coat.
The seams are dampened and pressed 7
az they are finished but after the fac
ing Is In. the Whole coat should be thor
OuEhiy pressed. The lining should eN-
tend only about one inch beyond the
facings. The backs are cut one-half
inch wider on each side. which gives an
easy NJ. The sleeves should be com
pletely finished before they are sewed |
In, and IN sewing them 20 the coat the |
lining is not caught. but Is afts-Uard |
hemmed in by hand. giving II 8 pretty |
finish.