The daily morning journal and courier., 1907-03-16
THE FASHIONS.
The Newest Ideas fin Millinery-CarefuI
 Blending of Materials and CoIors the Chief Characteristic.

Ibeen for many a long season. Every one of the models, both domestic and imported, which is shown at the various lopenings exhibits some quip or turn either in it's foundation or it's garniture that Is entirely new and indicative of no period or style farther back than 1907 fact for which no woman at all interested in the subject can fail to 1 feel a sense of qualification.
 l As regards shapes anything that suits the individual taste is correct, so far as mode goes, but in view of the wide scope allowed it is bound to be the wiser thing to leave the selection to the individual taste of an expert milliner, rather than to one's own. There is a slight leaning toward larger hats than have been worn this winter, and it is more than likely that the tendency will increase as the season advances. How ever, while the picture hats of the Gainsborough and early Victorian styles will prevail among the larger models for early spring wear, smaller hats with dropping or mushroom brims, round and pointed toques, plain sailors, and Napoleonic turbans will all appear in new trimmings which will stamp them at once as distinctly of the vim tage of the present spring and corres- pondlngly smart Crowns show as many and a frequent notifications as brims. In some instances this modifi- cation is carried to the vanishing point, as in the instance of plateaus, which are even more popular than last year. Other models show crowns either massed in mound form, or in re- gulation shape, while still others have the flowers intermixed with loops of straw, braid, or silk. Then there Is a medium sized hat which has low bell crown, formed in a double box pleat, which pointed at the front, Widens toward the back where 1t ends at the brim IA large turban of oval contour has a very low and wide bell crown surmounting brim which wide at the sides, is rolled slightly inward at the edge. A plateau, beat In ripples all around and mounted on an inside crown has the top massed with flowers and leaves, with no suggestion of a crown Long loops of soft, wide ribbon are laid over the back and two long ends are allowed to hang to the shoulders.
 Draped crowns in both silk and straw are much used The latter show the braid sewed in a plateau shape, and then caught here and there to the wire crown.
 The Peter Pan" is one of the sea- sons most effective novelties. It is hood-shaped originally, then twisted into round urban with a brim which is considerably wider at the top than at its base The top is surrounded with fril, or ruching, of ribbon, silk straw, or velvet and ostrich tips plumes, or a spray of flowers coils around the side and over the back The bandeau plays an important part in shapes this year although in several instances where it was used last year 1t is removed this Tn the Peter Pan' just mentioned the bandeau is wide and closely filled with tulle or small flowers. Still another novel shape among the new offerings is formed from a plateau of coiled or fluted braid, generally in two or three tones. It is mushroom shaped, with very deep bandeau at the back, trimmed with tulle, and long ribbon loops depending therefrom.
 Perhaps in the large shapes there is nothing more satisfactory and univer- sally becoming than the Turney model designed by an exclusive Avenue shop. There is a wide, circular brim which coils over in the back to touch the hair The crown is two inches high in front, graduating to four in the centre back A deep bandeau at the back tits the hat well over the face, while the wiring permits the brim to be indented to suit the face and the coiffure. The model shown was fashioned entirely of 8 succession of tiny lace frills. A clus- ter of half-blown roses, with long stems, was placed at the left front, from un- derneath which 8, sweep feather lifted itself for three or four inches before dropping down over the inturned brim This is also to be developed in the soft pliable braids and is exclusively a dress hat
 Brims are straight or circular and dropping, and in any case may be short in front or keep the same width all around Sometimes the brim is slashed at the back, as in the Marie Antionette model, sometimes cut to a point directly in front as in the "Dcuglas turban;" again it is round and flat, and caught up abruptly across the back, as represented in the Pony . anne, or bent-downward, as shown in the Esther Meyer.
 But whatever the shape, the chief characteristic of the millinery this spring Is found in the correct blending of colors and combination of materials. To begin with, there seems absolutely no limit to the braids and straws. Everything in this line which we have ever had is with us, reinforced by any number of novelties. Leghorn bids fair to be more popular than it was last year. also the hair braids and pyroxy- lin. The Italian braids are more ex- quisite than ever, especially the Rigol- letH, which Is a quarter of an inch wide closely woven, with little open figures dotting it, these figures being either in self or contrasting colors. Panama is shown only in the more expensive hats, and Milan and hemp braids have taken on new beauty.
 However handsome as the braisd of this season undenii.bly are, there is no evading the fact that the straws, &C., cording to all prophetic signs, will pre- dominate even for ceremonial wear. This includes, of course, the fine sewed delegation.