davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1907-09-15
Busy Days for the Importing Dressrnakers
and Custom House Officials Der11i-
toi1ettes Among the First Arrivals
Goats Grow Longer and There
is.a Stunning Long Vest.
4Lu1xE 21.1aZz10H
or LAcZ .ZZzzzz1Z1G5

that we are promised as feature Of the
winter modes. The full pleated blouse Is
draped over a we'll boned fitted lining,
the V shaped neck and the wide arm
holes outlined with velvet bands heavy
with silk and soutache embrolderics. The
sleeve is also draped. and this being the
distinctly new thing In sleeves, is deserv-
ing close attention. The plain lines Of
the kimona and Japanese sleeves that
have monopolized things all summer are.
we are told, to be largely replaced by
draped effects. The sleeve to this lans-
downe costume Is extremely simple. being
composed of two pieces of the cloth
arranged with the opening on the upper
arm, and the lower part Of the drapery
caught together with a small velvet bow
over straight lace undersleeve. There is
a high collar and v shaped vest Of lace.
the latter outlined with q chiffon scarf
which is knotted softly at the bust line
and falls In lace trimmed ends to below
the waist.
The New Princess Models.
The princess dress isc by no means miss
ing from the new fall models. Indeed,
the one piece and the two piece costumes
divide honors about equally. The Prln-
cess-Empire is noticeable, and another
form Of princess which has portions of
the skirt extended up to form a part Of
the bodice. Such model is sent in by
Lebouvier, and is developed In a shadow
stripe mohair in an exquisite shade of
violet. The hack pieces Of the skirt are
extended into bretelles, which cross sur
plice-wise in the back. fall wide oter the
sleeve tops, and drape to the waist line
In front. The bodice portion proper Is
of violet chiffon, laid in inch tucks. and
accordian pleated. There is v back
and front of white lace, and this is out
lined with white satin striped with
violet velvet. Buttons are an important
feature OF this costume. being used on
the side back seams, and In holding the
fichu-bertha in place. They are covered
with velvet and cord edged.
Japanese and Jumper Ideas
Continue.
These two costumes are Indicative of
two distinct types OF demi mi-costume. OF
each of which we Will see many varia-
tions during the season. They embody
many points of newness, but so cleverly
introduced that one feels no shock. There
are Japanese sleeves and jumper ideas
apienty among the new models. but these
lack the novelty Of the draped effects
above described.
Longer Coats and the New Vest.
Nor are the suits lacking in surprises
First, there are the heightened coats
Starting at so and 81 inch lengths, the
coats have gradually descended until they
reached the knees, and are still goip
as the small boy says. But the distinct
novelty feature OF the imported suit coats
is the long vests. 1t Is the fashion OF
George Washingfon's time, or OF Louis
XIV. revived, d,--the masculine fashion
drawn into feminine use. Vests that
Los Angeles herald., 1907-09-15

which point it extends In bretelle shaped
pieces over the shoulders and to the waist
line in front. The back-side seams are
laid In a stitched pleat set with covered
buttons. The bodice proper is of chiffon
of a shade matching the fabric, and 1t is
laid In inch tucks and accordion pleated.
giving full and graceful effect There
Is nat collar Of violet velvet, and an
inner facing Of white satin striped with
velvet outlines the lace vest The sleeves
are quite three quarters lengths, and have
full capes Of chiffon and velvet over tight
lace undersleeves. rosette of the vel
vet. with buckle, is set just above the
waist line in front. 1t is noticed that the
skirt OF this costume is faced up to a
depth Of fourteen to sixteen inches with
soft silk, way the Paris dressmakers
have Of giving their costumes the proper
'hang."
Directoire Coat Suit I'm Olive
Green velvet.
Long coats are distinct feature OF the
seasons fashions. They run from 40 to
20 inch lengths, and those sent us from
the other side have just suggestion of
ntting In the back. The trimming OF
these coats Is extremely simple. In the
costume illustrated both coat and skirt
are braid trimmed, a wide handmade
braid outlining the coat with rows of
soutache and narrow fancy braid arranged
In bands and scroll patterns. 1t is on
the vests Of these coats that the trim
ming Is layished! Sometimes this vest is
almost solid with braiding and embroid-
cry. Again, as in the illustration, the
vest is of quaint. heavy brocade band
or dull gold galloon. The sleeves are
full length and are finished with large
mousquetaire cuffs. stiffened and braid
trimmed. The hat is green felt, trim
med with velvet and an enormous POM
p0n almost covers the crown.
Los Angeles herald., 1907-09-15

Dark. but by no means somber, are the
colorings fashion approves for fall. Never
have we seen q wider variety OF shades
accredited good by that capricious dame
First and foremost In novelty and beau
ty is the purple family. Every shade and
tone, from the full rich royal egg plant
dahlia. petunia, and those tones known
to the French as crocus. pavot. eminence,
and abbesse.
Purple is startling color, and some
how we always feel that it cannot take
we'll: vet It comes to US this fall in>mod-
els with the names of the master-design-
ers of the world attached, and since some
OF New Yorks best dressed women are
fayoring it, it certainly looks as though
more people than royalty would be cloth
ed in purple this winter
The "of" shades, 1t must be confessed,
are more attractive than the clear pur-
pIe and vastly more becoming to tine ma
iority of compilations in this harsh cii-
mate Of ours. The egg plant, or aupu-
gine. as the French term It, Is sort
pinkish tint that combines charmlngly
with light blue,> and harmonizes delight
fully with almost all the fashionable furs.
Greens In all shades, but particularly
In the bronze and lear tones arc siateu
for fine favor this fall and winter. Green
was the leading color in Paris last win
ter. but did not reach prominence here.
The favor denied 1t last season, It WIN
doubtless attain to, this. The bright en-
erald green tones. shades 'sometimes
termed Marie Louise, will be strong as
an accessory color, in hats and trim
mings.
Blues we have always with us, they are
so sensible. you know. However, 1t is
not their practical qualities that brings
them forward this season, but genuine
fashion vogue. The new shades are GER
tainly worthy Of the attention they are
inspiring. They are the lighter tones.
Natter and Copenhagen, and some mar
vicious deep blues that seem to contain
black, SO very dark is the toue. Pirate
and filibustier some Of these are called.
Los Angeles herald., 1907-09-15
Description Of Illus-
tratiOflS.
An Elaborate AfterAoon Costume
in Mauve Cloth.

An Elaborate Afternoon Costume
in Mnuve Cloth.
The Elton coat is by no means banished
from Fashions favor. 1t will be seen all
winter at various dressy functions, and
in severest weather its wearers will SIM
ply don a. heavy outer coat or cape over
the small Elton for carriage wear. This
costume is of fine broadcloth, the skirt
laid in box pleats. which are braided half
their depth with a heavy silk cord. The
little coat is on square lines, and is COM
posed of cloth and dlet net, aud heavy
with braided pattern Of the silk cord
which appears on the skirt. The sleeves
are OF the CLOTH and also braided There
is touch of brilliant embroidery on satin
outlining the vest, and forming the inner
belt and, sleeve bands. The hat Is a
mushroom shape, pointed sharply In front,
covered with mauve velvet and wreathed
with purple pansies.
How One French Maker Develops
the Princess.
This model is by Lebouyier, and has
many novel points in its details II 10 a
shadow stripe English mohair, so ane and
soft as to be readily mistaken for silk.
In color 1t is brilliant violet The cos
tune Is cut on princess lines, the skirt
having straight back seam that at the
waist curves In to a bias mitering, from
Los Angeles herald., 1907-09-15

These be the days when interest re-
awakens-or does It ever sleep f-in the
major matters of the costume. In mid
summer such minor details as neckwear,
hairpins and belts, seem vastly I'M
portanx But once September 1st comes
round It's the serious things OF the ward
robe that engross us,--the length OF our
fall suit coat, whether or not to have
long sleeves to our prospective restaurant
frock. Just how short to have the street
skirt and what size, shape ana coior 70
choose in fall hat.
The importing dressmakers are arriving
on every steamer. as well as tne regu-
lar pleasure travellers who always take
the precaution to supply early fall ward
robe needs during the summer so1ourn
on the continent. Every maid and matron
lust arrived from Europe must submit
to the close scrutiny of her acquaint-
ances, and the serious cross questioning
OF her intimates. each and every one OF
them bent on knowing all she does OF the
new fashions and fancies- The dress
makers are calling up their favorite Gus.
toners over telephone to come down
and see some charming things thar came
this morning." and the customs men are
busy from morning till late afternoon
over flmy chiffons and rich velyets and
priceless furs
aDresses" Are Again in Style.
dressmaker who specialises on sim
ple costumes Of refined character,
dresses for American ladies'" one French
designer terms them, Is showing some
fascinating new models this week.
studv Of them will make one well posted
on wbar Will be seen this fall and win
ter in the smart cafes, at private and
semi-priyate luncheons, afternoon bridge
narties and the like. From these one will
note that the simplicity ushered In a
year or more ago by Paquin is to con-
tinue in favor. a blessing for which every
lover OF artistic dressing should give
thanks.
In these mi-toilettes there Is a de-
cided tendency toward simple skirts,
sometimes quite untrimmed about the
bottom. and again embellished with some
very simple tuck or band treatment
Doucet model in lansdowne shows most
Charming skirt. II Is very full. and laid
into the band In large forward turning
pleats, this latter being point worth
noting. The skirt is cut In SIX cores,
and in each gore are laid two nve incn
tucks running with the grain OF the
cloth. the tucks are SO placed that they
form a saw-tooth border. The efrect ls
simple, yet extremely elegant, and would
be successful in any Of the soit hgnt
weight fabrics, such as chiffon cloth or
voile. In a transparent fabric this skirt
Of course takes on dressier aspect, the
double folds OF the tucks standing out
plainly as trimming scheme
The New Draped BOdices and
Sleeves.
The bodice Of this costume also con-
taine many instructiye features. 1t shows
one Of the many new dFaDed treatments
Los Angeles herald., 1907-09-15
A Season Of Exquisite Colorings.

The paon shades are most novel. These
will be largely used in millinery, and 70
a lesser extent,--because Of their novelty,
i'm costumes and suits. japanese blues.
those sharp clear tones, are known as
.Japon" and 'Tokio," and various other
names.
Then there are the wine shades,--the
burgundys, sherrys, and clarets, those
beautiful deep red tones that are 50 ap-
propriate to THE winter season. These
run into rose shades in their iightest
tones.
Brown is always more popular IN Amer
lea than 1t is in France. 1t will continue
to enjoy popular favor all winter, though
1t will not have the widespread vogue II
has enjoyed for several seasons back
Brown In combination, that IS In stripes
and the new sisibo mixtures, is even more
popular than the plain tones The very
dark shades, dead leaf. wood brown. and
what the French term pain bruie, or
burnt bread, are smart; then there II a
medium tint designated as morodore, and
lighter tones called Yade and Nankin.
Old Gold Is one OF the novelty colors Of
the season, but 1t is, OF course, only In
accessory color. and appears mostly on
hats.
Greys In the metal ana religious"
tones, will have some prominence, being
especially effective when properly com
bined with furs.
Indeed, one noticeable point In the fall
colors is the charming way with whidh
they combine with all the fashionable
furs and some of the finer fur cloths The
fur seems to bring out all the beauty Of
the fabric tones, and the fabric color in
turn, enhances the richness Of the furs.
Los Angeles herald., 1907-09-15
Unique Disposition Of
Lace Trimmings.

This costume shows another of the
clever two-in-one effects The material Is
a rose satin with trimmings OF lace dyed
the same shade. The skirt has inset VS.
Of the satin tucked and outlined with the
lace. The upper portion is formed of
these VS., which extend up on to the
bodice. The bodice portion Is Of finely
pleated satin arranged over vest Of net.
There is draped under sleeve of lace
and also ichu arrangement Of the lace
at the bust line. The narrow collar and
sleeve bands are of dark brown velvet,
the brown contrasting prettily with the
rose tint of the satin.
Los Angeles herald., 1907-09-15
Fashion Notes.

The craze for cameo JeweIry grows
apace. Those possessed Of heirlooms of
this nature are congratulating themselves
thereon, and the less fortunate are saving
their pennies to buy, or trusting that
lucky birthday, or far away Christmas
may bring them the wanted treasures. 1t
might be well to say that cameo per-
tains to the cutting and not to the shell,
and some very decorative cameo effects
are wrought In the inexpensive pink conch
shell.
The prominence the front lace cor
set Is taking is worthy Of note. In the
beginning its use was naturally limited,
since the price of front lace models was
so high as to be prohlbitive to many.
Now, however, some of the clever manu-
facturers have gotten up well made front
lace styles to sell as low as $3.50. SO that
the woman of moderate means needs not
to be deferred from enjoying the comforts
that this method of corseting is said to
bestow on its followers.
The little Japanese silk frocIks
that have had such favor among smart
dressers all summer are to run through
the winter as house frocks. In white
they will be worn by young girls for party
frocks. and In the pink and white and
blue and white and green and white
stripes win replace more pretentious fab
rics for house dresses. They are emil
nently practical If made simply. since
they iaunder as well as a piece Of linen.
There Is new pettScoat in the
shops that will be appreciated by the
thin. sisters 1t is provided with padded
yoke that builds the figure out to pleas
ant curves, cannot wabble about as does
a hustle sometimes, and Is In one with
the petticoat, doing away with the extra
garment
Los Angeles herald., 1907-09-15
How to Wash Blankets.

times to an even width, and they pass
through the wringer without difficulty,
Hang them out at once to dry, carefully
fastening them on the line SO that they
may not drag out or shape. 1t must be
remembered that the waters in which
they are washed should be Of the same
temperature.
The blankets must be absolutely dry
before they are taken in They should
then be folded carefully and placed in
clean white sheet, large enough to com.
pletely cover them. No ironing ~ neees-
sary. A marble table top or board may
be laid over them to press them down.
Los Angeles herald., 1907-09-15

clear. brisk and breezy day should
be relected as the time to wash blankets.
Two tubs half .illed with hot water must
be in readiness, one containing enough
shaved soap to make strong suds; a part
Of a cake Of soap may be laid In the
other. Add to each tub quart Of water
in which half a cupful of borax has been
dissolved.
Place the blankets In the first tub and
work them about until they are free
from dirt. Wiring out as much OF the
soapy water as possible, and put them
In the second tub. washing again as in
the first. Then rinse In weak suds and
send them through the wringer adjust
ing the rollers so that they win squeeze
tho water out thoroughly.
Fold the blankets ienRthwIss several
Los Angeles herald., 1907-09-15

Oatmeal Croauettes. = Warm ono
cupful Of cooked oatmeal in one tablespoon
full OF milk add the beaten yolk Of one
egg and one saltspoonful Of salt When
cool shape into small oyals, roll, in crumbs.
dip in beaten eggs. roll in the crumbs
again and fry in smoking-hot fat
Los Angeles herald., 1907-09-15

Cynical folks who sneer at tho faith OF
young lovers, only show what bad losers
they ars In the game Of love
The Republican journal., 1907-01-31

the people always have and always will re-
sonable postal rates and that any of the
propos changes would be detrimental to
the interests of not only of the newspapers
but of their readers, the people, therefore,
Resolved: That the Maine Press Associ-
ton emphatically protest against the adop-
ton by Congress of any of the proposed
changes in the postal laws and that we urge
that before Congress make any move toward
changi & these laws, that thorough inves-
tigation be made as to the chief causes of
the postal law deficit, the price paid the
railroads for carrying the mails. the cost to
the postoffice department of the present
free government Thanking system and other
abuses Of present laws.
Finally that pending any further postal
law legislation, we declare as unjust, fur
Their rulings by the postotfice department.
tending to limit the privileges of newspa-
pers and magazines such as the recent rul-
ing against the printing of coupons in pa
pers and enclosing subscription blanks with
copies of papers, until the whole matter of
the postal laws be settled by Congressional
legislation.
Resolved: That we send copy of these
resolutions to our Congressman and Sena-
tors and to every newspaper in the State
whether members of the association or not,
and that all the newspapers be urged to Call
the attention OF the public to the injustice
OF the proposed sweeping changes in the
postal laws and the radical rulings of the
third assistant postmaster general.
The Republican journal., 1907-01-31
STOCKTON A BUSY PLACE.

The writer drove to Stockton Springs the
other day and found it one nf the busiest
places i'll the State. Everybody is on the
move, and business goes on with the regu
larlty of clockwork. At the great potato
warehouse, GEO feet long, a large steamer
Was loading, and eight three-masted
schooners were waiting for their chance to
load, as we'll as severa! smaller vessels. The
potatoes are moved from the warehouse TO
the deck of the vessel in cars run by an end
less chain, distance of some 600 feet. A
bag of potatoes drops from the car at every
tick of the clock. 4 large amount of lum-
Der is also shipped from this place. The ia.
cllltles for receiving and dschargng car
goes are of the best. A few weeks since
three small stores here were destroyed by
fire and gangs of men were at work at the
time of our visit rebuilding them We call
ed upon Mr.. Harry Applin, who has just
got his new store running. He has fine
set of new buildings, including store, sta
BILE, icehouse and refrigerator, all combined.
The second floor of the store is finished off
for dwelling house, which will accommo-
date two families. Mr.. Applin is running
general store and deals in meat, and has
very large trade. lie is member of
wholesale firm in Massachusetts.-Co
spOndence Rockland Opinion.
The Republican journal., 1907-01-31
TRANSFERS IN REAL ESTATE.

The following transfers in real estate
were recorded in Waldo County Registry
of Deeds for the week ending JAM %, 1907 !:
Joseph L. and Walter E. Aldus, Belfast.
to John Sanborn, do. land and buildings in
Belfast.
John W. Buzzell, Rumford, to John B.
Darrah, do, land in Stockton Springs
John W. Buzzell, RumfOrd, to Charles A.
Darrah, do. land in Stockton Springs,
II. R. Bartlett, Appleton, to Fred L. Fogg,
Augusta; land and buildings in Searsmont.
George W. Burkett, Somerville, Mass, to
Grace E. Wilson, do; land and buildings in
Belfast.
John r. Dunton, Belfast, to John San
born, do. land in Belfast
Sophia j. Emery, Plymouth, to William
Alexander Emery, Burnham; land and
buildings in Burnham, e deeds).
John NJ. Engstrom, Belfast, to John San
born, do. land in Islesboro
Charles H. Foster, Pittsfield, to Dominick
Sussl, do. land in Pittstield.
-, Elmer c. Hamilton, Foxcroft, to A. E.
Nickerson, Swanville land in SWanville.
Kate c. McTaggart, Belfast, to Edwin c.
Body, Jr; land and buildings in Brooks
Nancy }. MIDGET, Belfast, to Annie B.
Mudgett, do. land and buildings in Belfast
Ada B. Noyes ct ais, Portland, TO William
Y. Pendleton, Searsport land and buildings
in Stockton Springs.
Hannah S. Small, Stockton Springs, to
Abbie W. Mitchell, Portland land in Stock
Jefferson F. Wilson, Belfast, to Frank P.
Wilson, New York; land in NOrthport.
Jefferson F. Wilson, Belfast, to George II.
Patch, Northport; land in Northport.
Jennie '. White ct ais, Belfast, to John
Sanborn, do. land and buildings 10 Belfast
Clifford D. White, Camden, to John San
born, Belfast land and buildings in Belfast
The Republican journal., 1907-01-31
CAN'T Be SEPARATED.
Some Belfast People Have Learned How to
Get Rid of Both.

Rackache and kidney ache are twin brothers.
You can't separate them.
And you can't get rid of the backache until you
cure the kidney ache.
If the kidneys are well and strong, the rest of
the system is pretty sure to be in vigorous health.
Doan's Kidney Pills make strong, healthy kid
neyS.
Mrs. Mary Smith. formerly of 81 Union street,
Belfast, Me, says: 81 have had kidney complaint
and backache for a number of years. The attacks
We're so severe that it difficult for me to give
proper attention to my household work. Added
to the suffering was an annoyance caused by
weakness of the kidney action. The secretions
We're unnatural and irregular, despite the fact
that was continually using medicines. Finally
I heard of Doan's Kidney Pills and procured a
box at the City Drug Store. The benefit derived
from their use was entirely satisfactory. The
pains and aches were relieved and the Kidneys so
strengthened that have not been troubled with
any Irregularities or weaknesses since. 1t was
several years ago that l first used this remedy
and have never changed my good opinion of it,
For sale by all dealers. Price 80 cents. Fos-
ter Milburn Co., Buffalo, N. Y, sole agents for
the United States.
Remember the name-Doans-and take no
other.
The Republican journal., 1907-01-31
PHILIPPINE
ARMY 'D0B|E|TCH'
Disease Contracted in the Philippine
Service ItchingPimpIes Covered
Body = Army Surgeons Failed
to Cure Discharged for DISABLE
ity-Cured by Cuticura, Now
A FIRM BELIEVER IN
CUTICURA REMEDIES

II enlisted in the Corps Of Engineers
as telegraph operator, and, while sta
toned in the Philippines, I became sub
ject to the "Dobie Itch," as the natives
call it. In this disease small, white.
itching pimples form under the skin.
generally between the toes, on the limbs.
between the fingers, and under the
arms. Inever knew Of a case originate
ing outside the Philippine Islands, but
have known of many cases where it has
returned in this country and invariably
at the same time of the year as the orig
inal attack. The cause, so far as I
could learn, was some tropical parasite
or germ peculiar to that region.
Il got so bad that I was confined to
my quarters a week at a time. The
Army Surgeons applied some carbolic
solution, and it would disappear for a
time when it would break out again.
I was discharged from the Engineers
by reason of disability contracted in
line of duty, and when I had the
trouble again, my druggist, Mr.. e., of
Brooklyn, recommended Cuticura Rem
edies. The immediate relief was mani
fest with my first purchase, and the
malady quickly yielded to. the Rene
dies. 1t has never required or bothered
me since / began to use and continued
to use the Cuticura Remedies. You
may quote me as believer in Cuticura
Remedies from personal experience.
John S. Woods, 22l Sands St., Brooklyn,
N. Y, Oct. 81 and 26, 1906"