The ranch. [volume] (Seattle, Wash.) 1902-1914, 1907-02-15

will make growth or from TWO Io
three feet during the summer. In
August, before the bark sets, they
should be budded. These buds will
remain dormant during the winter. In
the spring cut off the tops just above
the buds, keep off the suckers during
the summer and these buds will grow
to be three or four feet high. The
next spring set in the orchard. With
little experience in budding and
proper care of the young trees the
work will be successful. Never try
to graft peach trees.
e. G. Adams, of Prosser Wash,
asks: II wish to get your opinion and
advice as to the remedy, If any, for
dry or black rot found in Black Twig
apples. Last fall many of my apples
of this variety were affected. The
trees are nine years old. What per
cent. of potash do the ashes of sage
brush and alfalfa have? Would you
recommend the same for fertilizing
orchard ground? What has been
your observation as to the result OF
grating or budding peaches onto
prune trees? What is your opinion
of the Lady applet"
AS to the rot spoken of on the Black
Twig apples it all depends on whether
the disease is what is called the
Baldwin speck' or whether it is
fungous growth like apple scab. The
Baldwin speck cannot be cured. Mel
Their the cause nor cure is known. On
the other hand all fungous growths can
be remedied with the Bordeaux mix
ture. Nothing can be used as fungi
eide that is equal in all cases to the
sulphate of copper. The sulphate OF
copper, commonly called blue stone or
blue vitriol, combined with lime and
water makes the Bordeaux mixture.
Spray before the leaves come out and
then again after the bloom has fallen.
If you should use about four pounds
of blue stone to each fifty gallons OF
your cooling moth mixture, you would
probably get practically rid of the rot
spoken Of Write to the State College
at Pullman and ask for their bulletins
on preparing the Bordeaux mixture,
follow their directions, and you can
hardly go wrong. They are thorough
and fully understand their business.
l do not know what per cent of pot
ash is in the ashes of sage brush or
alfalfa. We never have any alfalfa
to burn. Ashes of all kinds are valu-
able for orchards. Some are richer
in potash and lime than others. Coal
ashes, for instance, have not much
value.
l have never tried to bud prunes
with peaches but it can be successfully
done. If they are old prune trees, you
will have to cut them back and grow
a young sprout and then bud that in
August. Don't try to graft the stone
fruits. The Lady Apple is pretty little
thing, but has but little commercial
value. Don't try too many expert
ments but stick to the well known
sorts, whether apples, peaches, prunes,
plums or any other kind of fruit.
y
G. E. Fitzgerald, of Ferndale, What
com county, Wash, writes as follows:
81 am very much pleased to note that
you are going to take up the question
of spraying in your next issue. 1t is
one of the most important questions
the fruit grower has to deal with. l
am sure The Ranch can do it justice.
We are troubled with moss and oyster
shell bark louise to a great extent III
Whatcom county. Most of our fruit
growers have used I've for spraying
for moss and the louise also, and seem
to get good results. l used caustic
soda and caustic potash last year on
our orchard with very good success.
Is there any difference between caustic
soda and caustic potash as a fertilizer
for fruit trees as spray? | think the
caustic potash acts as fertilizer as
well as spray. But many of our fruit
IN