Los Angeles herald., 1907-03-03

definite name. These last are really
laden with flowers and with pretty rib
bons, but a generous number of the big
ger hats of tuscan, leghorn and the
like are moderately trimmed und conse-
quently more truly beautiful. very
handsome model, for example, is
trimmed with black MORE silk and
black feathers, with just sufficient
number of roses to give color and
springike effect, while under the brim
is the brown maline, the philosophy flor
which seems to be found in the fact
that brown hair being the most general
of all colors the brown maline can be
trusted to be less conspicuous than al
most any other color.
Another radical change in women's
apparel this season is the neckwear for
spring which shows a decided leaning
toward stiff tailored effects.
This is even true of the embroidered
and lace chemsettes or yokes inserted
into gowns and rich fabrics.
For instance, an imported gown of
chiffon velvet had cuffs and chemisette
not of soft frilly lace, but of finest linen,
hand-embroidered in an openwork, lace
like pattern, quite devoid of fancy
edges.
After two years of attached collars
matching the blouses, we have returned
to the linen collar, beautiful, to be sure,
with embroidery and open work, but
nevertheless suggesting the stiff neck
wear, and the revival of the shirt waist
buttoning in the front almost presup-
poses some sort of cravat-
For wear with the tailored suit there
is new conceit Cut collar from
strong linen or pique, with decided
dip under the chin and the collar rising
and fitting almost to the hair in the
back. Edge this with a very narrow
heavy lace stitched on fat without any
fullness, so that it will hold starch like
the collar. Button it in the back to the
shirtwaist at the bottom, and at the top
fasten with a small gold bar. Finish it
with a tie of softest linen or lawn, laid
in folds around the neck and tied in the
front in a short, natty Gravel
Make q turnover collar of pique with
scalloped edges and a tiny dot or star
embroidered in each scallop. Attach
this to a well-fitting straight collar of
common muslin, which will hold starch.
Hide this under collar with a broad
Roman ribbon tied in the front in a
four-in-hand. To match this collar,
make turnback cuffs of pique in a fine
cord, embroidering deep scalloped edges.
If you have a scrap of exquisite linen,
lawn or net, take an oblo4g, say niue
wide. Hemstitch the sides, and on the
bottom fasten some lace of an open
work pattern, such as narrow alencon.
Now lay this in fine pleats and finish it
at the top with a double strip of cloth
or band about two or two and half
inches wide. Make in this a couple of
tiny buttonholes, and your pleated tab
is finished. Next take some common
linen or muslin and make a snug-fitting
clerical collar, which closes in the back.
On the front of this, about half an inch
from the upper edge, attach buttons to
match the holes in your pleated tab.
Fasten ribbon to match your blouse
around this high collar, hiding it COM
pletely, and holding the stock wrong
side up, bring the ribbon under the
chin. Tie 1t in short butterfly bow,
whose ends stand out stiffy on either
side.
Pique is used in making many of the
new imported collars, and a girl can
manufacture these very nicely at home
If she will rip up an old turnover collar
for a pattern. Use muslin next to the
neck, and for the turnover half select a
pique with a fine cord, and instead of
finishing the collar plain edge it with
lawn, hemstitched in a very fine knife
pleating. or, If you have fluting ma
chine, the lawn can be huted. This
lawn pleating should not be more than
half an inch when finished. The fluting
is also seen in delicate colorings pale
,N.lIr 10 n.