davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1907-07-07
The Smart A11-B1ack Costume. Women of Fashion Who Affect the Sonbre Hue Some Clothes They Wear Their
 Millinery and Accessories.

At every ultra ia shionable gathering may be noticed from two to twenty women garbed from toe-tip to feather-tip in black, which even unobservant man would never for an instant mistake for mourn- ing attire. These women select their fabrics as well as their dressmakers so carefully that each gown, wrap and hat seems to precisely suit the occasion. Among the well known women who wear exceedingly smart black costumes are Mrs Paul Nor ton, who invariably makes distinguished appearance: Mrs. Hermann Oelrich. who Is slighter than of yore. and Mrs Pres colt Lawrence, who looks stunning in whatever she may elect to don. Mrs Clarence Mackay occasionally wears all black, even when not in mourning, and there might be mentioned score of other fashionable women whose beauty of face or figure is best set out by the inky hue which Hamlet's mother de- plored in the melancholy young prince ling's new cloak.
 For summer tailored costumes there Is q wide range of black mnterials-panama, Shantung, mohair, taffeta. yelling and voile, made into walking skirts. plaited or gored or panelled. trimmed with gradu- ated bands, buttons, ribbons, braid and tucks. and cutaway or box coats with stitched collars, cuffs and pocket-laps, or etons with rows of ribbon about the sleeves AS well as the shoulders and waistcoats.
 Elaborate street costumes designed for church weddings, afternoon receptions and the races are of marquisette, lans downe, silk, yelling, bordered or plain chiffon cloth, crepe de chine CT China silk These are all flexible fabrics lend ing themselves readily to the Empire model, which, by the way, may be es- sayed successfully by the tall or short, the fat or lean woman. for the mission of the modern dressmaker or tailor Is to make the figure of each customer appear not what it is but what 1t should be.
 Some of the fashionable semi-trans- parent materials are 80 beautiful in themselves. that, made on Empire lines, they require scarcely any trimming other than taffeta or velvet ribbon and a scrap of rare lnce. When the princess designs are employed quantities of embroidertes, silk appliques and laces are used. For h. stance, embroidered or plain flet often borders the full. sweeping dem.-trained skirts. set in narrow plaits about the waist and falling in graceful folds to the feet. The same lace forms the sleeves, the yoke and not infrequently the bolero or surplice which Is then bordered with the material of the gown.
 An excellent combination in n three- piece black costume is embroidered Brus- sels net and chiffon cloth. The absolute lv plain cloth skirt Is demi-trained, the blouse has pointed yoke and deep girdle of embroidered net and a Directoire knee length coat of brussels is deeply bordered with embroidery. The same model may be carried out by substituting taffeta for embroidered net. Sometimes the heavier
The Birmingham age-herald., 1907-07-07

Fascinating as are the modes of mid summer 1t Is remarkable how little that Is really new there is in costuming New effects in millinery and novelties in ac- cessories are continually coming forward. but costume effects circle around those modes which have marked the season since It's opening.
 It is surprising, too, what variations can be worked out with the Japanese idea. Designers seem loath to part with this idea which has been the source of such clever inspiration throughout the season, and 1t is confidently predicted that a fall and winter of cut-out arm holes, dropping shoulders and sling sleeves in jumper dresses and princess and en- pire frocks is ahead of us.
 But present modes are of interest just at this time
 The shirtwaist suit which figured so strongly in the summer wardrobe of pre- yious years is conspicuously absent its place usurped by the ubiquitous jumper dress expressed in variety of ways and materials. Some women like the trlmness of the shirtwaist dress better than the simplicity of the jumper which they argue savers too much of the small maids wardrobe, but the great majority of our girls, and matrons, too-for wom- en of all ages are wearing this becoming jumper dress-favor the youthfulness and simplicity of this mode. It is practical md economical as well as pretty fash ion. Frocks of other seasons can be sue cessfully remodelled along these lines, and blouses which have given their best days tO tho of +o ei-t or tailored suit find a prolonged life In the guise of guimpes.
 More various than the materials which make these dresses are the variations of the mode. While the princess jumper is attractive 1t is, however, by no means universally becoming, and therefore 1t is not as popular as the baby princess, waist and skirt of which are joined with q narrow belt of the material or lace or embroidery trimming
 The same may be said of the lingerie frocks this season. Women have found that unless the princess lingerie frocks of sheer fimsy cottons and linens, laces and embroideries, are mounted over tight ntting and carefully boned lining they fall In fitting the figure smoothly as a princess dress rightly should
 The tendency toward what might be termed a top-heayiness of elaboration Is very apparent in this years lingerie mod -els. Skirts though elaborate with insets of faces and embroideries, often made en- tirely of these two trimmings without any lingerie material whatever are cut on plain gored lines and simply gathered, pleated or tucked Into the waistband. Where the trimmings are applied fiat in the skirt they take the form of frllings and pleatings in the waist and in this way give the effect of great waist elabo- ration.
 In one dress of thls type the waist is made entirely of narrow lace frillings 7 lth q suspender effect in embroidery oandings. The skirt is combination of sheer batiste, tucked and inserted with narrow Valenciennes entre deux, and wide embroidery founcing This use of wide
The Birmingham age-herald., 1907-07-07
A arisian Lingerie Con-
 lection.

A very beautiful lingerie costume rec ognlzed at the races q few days ago as the bridal gown of one of the Smart Sets Easter brides is of sheerest white French
 null with Irish crochet appliques and the finest of French hand work embroidery medallions. The creation Is the product of q Parisian atelier, fact apparent In every line and seam of the gown. It is q princess model built over a carefully
 boned foundation of white taffeta, the skirt with its panelling of lace and em- broldery stimulating princess girdle. nboye which the eton-like fronts hang loose, these fronts made entirely of lace and medallions and edged with fine lace peatings. The bottom of the skirt Is q series of tucked rufies edged with lace, broken up by the insertion of large em- broidered medallons surrounded with Irish crochet. novel touch of color shows It. self in the form of palest blue Louisine sIlk. folded surplice-wiss across the bust
The Birmingham age-herald., 1907-07-07

son without monotony. Black roses are also exceedingly smart and do not fade quickly. Small hats composed wholly of replicas of that rare exotic may be worn with both the tailored or the ceremonious costume. Black malne hats soon wilt when exposed to the salt air, but elsewhere are q delight to the wearer, as they are light of weight as well as wondrously becoming. On plainer hats some exceed ingly smart effects are gained with dyed peacock feathers, black velvet and taf- feta ribbon, fringed scarves and huge brilliant jet buckles.
 There should be at least two black sunshades; one of plain or embroidered taffeta and another of chiffon or lace The gloves, shoes and stockings are, of course, black, and jewels worn should be diamonds, pearls or opals.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1907-07-07

material surmounts the lighter, as In the case of an embroidered net skirt and bodice and long silk Empire coat with Tokio sleeves, collar and bordering of embroidered net.
 silk redingotes over semi-transparent gowns are exceedingly smart and closely follow the lines of the figure, with sleeves small at the arm-sze and faring widely at the elbow. Many have short, pointed vests, terminating below the bust with q fall of lace
 Among black lingerie gowns-neyer meant to be introduced to q wash tub are those of embroidered muslin and dyed valenciennes, the latter showing rows of nnrrow taffeta ribbon on the full, demi- trained skirt, and on the blouse with it's pufred elbow sleeves, or the jacket which usually has short mandarin sleeves. Sim pier lingerie frocks are of batlste made with pin tucks and lace entre deux, as in white, save that Inexpensive French laces are frequently substituted for Val enciennes and Mechlin. In the same class are the large and small dotted Swisses which wear wonderfully well and do not fade.
 Summer evening gowns of lansdowne, chiffon cloth and the heavier laces are best for wear at the seaside, as they successfully withstand the salt air. Else where, chiffon. thin laces and all varie- ties of net are employed. Unless made in the princess or Empire style, 1t is well to have two waists with each sum mer dinner gown, as with high bodice the skirt may be worn to an afternoon party.
 Summer tea gowns are practically of the same materials as are the dinner gowns, and on Empire lines. Any com petent seamstress or maid should be able to transform half worn costume of ceremony into one designed pricinpally for comfort
 Morning frocks of China silk are mex pensive and cool. They are made with short skirts, plaited or tucked and with shirtwaists, preferably finished with soft turnover collars and cuffs.
 China and pongee silks are also used for kimonos and matnees, trimmed with inexpensive black lace, with beading run through with ribbon or tucked, with entre deux of lace. Lawns and muslins are made up on similar lines, and for the long, seml-ftting wrappers dotted and embroidered Swiss ruffies trim the plain materials and vice versa.
 The well-made, all-black hat has ever been considered eminently practical as well as smart, especially fin the moderate ly large shapes in Nenpoitan. fancy straws and chip. Trimmed heavily with handsome feathers. such hat may be worn the year round for formal occasions, and is often seen with furs and yelvets. collection of black ostrich or osprey plumes is valuable asset to any wom- ans wardrobe, as these feather trim mings may be utilized season after sea-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1907-07-07

almost to the wrist, have d cuf effect of the braiding which runs up the back of the arm to the elbow, and the edge of the sleeve is finished with double pleat- ings of black moussellne. Waists of this type are most successful when built over q very light weight silk or cotton lining, boned smoothly to the figure.
 Baby Princess Lingerie Elaborated
 With Lace and Embroidery.
 So elaborate are the lingerie frocks of this summertime with lace and embroid- cries that very often no lingerie materi- al, such as fine lawn or batiste, Is em- ployed in their makeup. Wide embroid- cry founcings with very deep portion of the plain material above the embroidery are used very generally. and in this way the necessity of the plain material by the yard Is very often done away with. In the skirt pictured the entire upper part is made of founcing inset with two rows of narrow Val. insertion fin Vandyke points, and to the scalloped edge of this iounce is set the lower part of the skirt much inserted and tucked, the material being q fine batiste. The waist Joined to the skirt in baby princess fashion with band of embroidery, Is an elaborate crea. ton of lace edglng and insertion and em broldery bandings, the bandings taking the form of suspenders, joined front and back with a cross piece of the embroid cry. The sleeves are made entirely Of lace frills on q foundation of batists matching the body of the blouse. and are gathered Into lace frilled band of the embroidery. delicately tinted silk slip of orkeda made in princess fashion and boned to the figure Is worn beneath this gown. set on by bell shaped hat of white chip with under-brim facing of black satin, and trimmings of black vel vet ribbon and one long ostrich plume which encircles the crown and droops down over the brim to the shoulder h the back.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1907-07-07

line under the jacket fronts, thus describ- Ing the popular empire waistline. This same line is followed in the sleeves, small puffs of the material elaboratey trimmed with Val. lace showing a touch of the blue at the elbow. The hat worn with this costume was of natural colored leg horn with high crown and abbreviated front brlm, the crown banded with pale blue velvet and bit of Persian embroid- cry. little to the left of the center front the brim was tucked up close against the crown, apparently held fin place by single pink rose at the base of pale ostrich feather. Long loops of blue velvet ribbon covered the hair in the back and the under brim was plped with blue velvet.
 Dressy Blouse of Black Tanets.
 Every woman's wardrobe, no matter how many colored garments 1t may con tain. should boast at least one black cos tune. There are always times when n black costume is more in keeping with the occasion than a colored one, and one should be prepared for any emergency, even though one does not like black as costume color. The separate waist of black taffeta is not only very practical but is extremely smart and may be worn with a skirt of plain black worsted or silk, or even skirt of some fancy ma terial, such as the illustration shows. in this instance the material being n black foulnrd with a large coin spot in white. The skirt Is q princess model, the pleats which give It it's fulness being laid flat at the waist line and over the hips with narrow bands of plain black taffeta. tailor stitched and finished with tiny silk but tons in the center front. The waist Is q surplice model of chiffon taffeta. the fronts elaborated with the eyelet embroid- cry and soutache braiding in Greek key pattern. The high collar boned with featherbone and the chemisette are of black cluny, and the three quarters sleeves. or rather seven eiGhths-for they reach
The Birmingham age-herald., 1907-07-07
Dinner Gown of Colleen
 Pop1in.

All black dinner gowns are at their best when made of materials soft and semi- transparent, soft silks, popIins. lansdowne and such fabrics, which naturally adapt themselves to the modes for evening wear Colleen poplin, soft, clinging, lustruous weave. popular in the seasons range of materials, make this gown of princess persuasion. It is really made in two pieces, skirt and bodice, but so effectively joined that 1t looks to be a one piece costume. The skirt is tucked over the hips between panels of black lace ap- plique bands and has two deep tucks, below clusters of tiny pin tucks, between the hem and several inches about the knee. The decolette bodice. cut round Ing In back and pointed in front, Is a simple baby waist with simple trimmings of the applique, and short, very full pun sleeves. shirred and banded with the lace, and finished with a double frill of black chiffon. From the empire waistline in the back depends an empire sash of black chiffon. Long black glace gloves come well up under the short pun. 80 thnt none of the arm is visible between the sleeve and the top of the glove. An attractive accessory Is the band of black velvet ribbon about the throat finished with q bow at the back of the neck
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-12-25
AnunCio

Departments del Interior de Puerto
Rico. Bureau de Obras P1bli.
cas-. O6cina del Superintendent
te. San Juan, P. r., Diciembre
10 de 1907.
Proposicioues Ell pliegos cerrados
paral la adjudication en- pdblica sabas-
ia de la construction de 463 kil6me-
tros aproximadamente de la carretera
n6merO II, luana Dfaz Ciales, secci6n
Villalva- -Divisor'a, sc admitiran en-
esta o6cina hasta las 10 am, del dia
80 de diciembre, 1907, en- que Sc abri-
ran p6blicamente.
FL p;esupuesto aproximado de las
obras asciende a $27,633.oo.
Todos los datos necesarios, i'm
presos de proposiciones y contrato E
instruction a los postores Sc daran en-
esta ofcina
La administration Sc reserva el
de1echo de rechazar cualquiera 8 to-
das las proposiciones y de adjudicar
el contrato bajo otras consideraciones
que las de precio solamente.
Por orden del Comisionado del
Interior j. ]. JIMENEz, Superinten-
dente de Obras Pdblicas. 1910.
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-12-25
BiopIGsa'sG

Fermento vital extraido de las
glandulas de animales iovenes y sa-
nos. Restituye el vigor normal sunni
uistrando a la sangre elenentos de
vida.
Empleado con resultados sorpren
dentes por los mejores facultativoS
de Europa y Estados Unidos,
Millares de testimonies exponta-
neos garantizan sus meritos y encacia
Unico remedio que ha degrade
hasta hoy detener el progreso y ali
visr los dolores de la Ataxia loco-
motriZ.
Previene ell paludismo y 10 cura
Recomendado en- ell tratamiento
de la tfsis y en- todas las afecciones
nerviosas producidas por causa de de-
bilitamiento. -. -. -
Devuelve fuerza y vigor a los or
garismos gastados; alivia y cura los
desarreglos intestinales. Sin rival pa
ra las Intermediates de los pafses trc-
picales.
La Sal Lithin y el Laxante com
pletan q tratamiento.
Atendiendo a numerosas exigen
cias Sc ha alberto un DEPARTMENT.
hispano-americano para la venta.
Sc atienden consultas y Sc remt
ten informes solicitud.
La formula Sc suministra quie1
la exija.
Dirigirse: BtoPLAsM c., "a Johi
Street, New York, U. S. A.
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-12-25
Il TnSFI5 Y TNFl!Qv gGS,

:, -stais Gshiatado Ior Ina Iargl e1-
f-rmeda1 haced uso de Ia So aci6n
PananbGge, que suprime la tos,
aumenta ell apetito y las fuerzas y ro-
bus,ece los pulmoues. Compuesta
de creosota pura de hava Y de clorhi-
dro. fosfato de cal, la SoluCi6n PaHtaR-
5e,Ye Is remedlo ehcacfsimo en- la
bror quits rronica, en- los resfriados
antiques = descuida los, en- la conva-
lesct ncia de la neumonia, de la pleu-
resfa, de la grippe. Es el remedio
mas eguro de la tuberculosis pulmo-
mar.
La Soiuci6n PaataHbe,ge CT en-
pleada desde hace IS amos por los me-
dicos del mundo entero, y millar' de
enfermos lie deben sd curaelon. Sc
venie en- todss las tarmaeias,
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-12-25
!AYvYA TOBACCO COMP.

Por el presente Sc advierte q todas
las personals que han tenido 8 tienen ne
gocios, relaci6n 8 conexion de cualquier
clase que sea con la fabrica de tabacos
conocida con el nombre Jayuya Tobacco
Comp, que desde el dia al del corriente
mes de Diciembre ha dejado de ser EN-
pleado de la misma el sefior Chas R. Ma
mes Y que por tanto todos los pagos, CO.
bros y correspondence deberan enten-
derse en- 10 srcesivo con el propietario de
Ia misma W. J Lowrie.
W. ]. LoWRIE,
IL Agulrre, P. K.
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-12-25
AVI!O IMPOlTlITE

81 dfa 81 del mes actual sc stiS.
pendera la remission del peri6dico 4
suscritOres y a algdn agente que no
Sc halle al dfa con esta empresa.
La medida serA sin exception.
Nos proponemos publican de
enero en- adelante los nombres de
los pueblos cuyas agencias esten al
dfa para satisfaction de los amigos
que las desempehan y de los suscri.
torres que pagan oportunamente sus
redbos.
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-12-25
Oeplrtame0to del Interior

D us 6A de tsyreAos b16lips -
N .ctsitAn iose en- esta ohcina para
los trab4jns de- deS1iades de terrenos
de aEl pu ,b!D T. pu-rt1 RiC'o per.
so al III col cj,Ei ut's de Agrt-
m-r>ut. =. wi q a As p-r7ouas
que 10. p,sean y deSeen a2eptar up
pussto n eta Divi iol, presenter
II, >o';liui II 1ican h n IA m'sms
is ;ao--s de algu 'aS ersonaS
qu, pue1an recomendarles.
San Juan, P. r., di',iembre &c
de 1907 ENRIQUE CASTRO Con
zALRz. Jefe de Ia division.
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-12-25
JAYUYl TOBACCO co,

Notice is hereby given to all persons
who hove had or have any business or
conection of any kind soever with the
tobacco factory known as Jayuya Tobac-
CO Co., that from the 21st day of Lecem-
Der Of the present yeBr, Mr.. chas r. Ma
mes has ceased to be an employee of the
said factory and therefore that all pay
ments, collections, aud correspondence
should be transacted in the fnture directly
with the proprietor Mr.. w. ], Lowrie.
w. ]. LoWRIE,
III AguiHe, P, R.
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-12-25

Lamentamos la eufermedad de
nuestro buen amigo y esperarnos
que recupere la salad. En- plena
edad viril, y con grandes energias
fisicas. la naturaleza debe auxiliar
Ia obra de la ciencia. NoSotros con-
famos en- que no Ocurrira una des-
gracia, que seria para todos una
gran tristeza.
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-12-25
FRINCIA IN 0RIENTE

Las autoridades navales de
Tol6n han recibido del Mihistro 6e
Marina TN telegrama en- que Sc pl4
den informes sobre el estado de los
buques de guerra pertenecientes 4
la reServa, pues Sc propone el Go.
blerno reforzar sin perdlda de item.
polas fuerzas navales de FranciS
en- el Extremo 0hente, especial.
mente en- Indo. China.
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-12-25
ClRlOs OIAz RRIIE

Sc halla gravemente enfern1o
nuestro querido compatriota el De
legado q la CAmara por el Distritc
de Ponce don Carlos Diaz Brink.
LIE asisten los doctores Suarez y
Torres, quienes luchan desespera-
damente por salvar la vida del dis
tinguido enfermo. Sc espera de uu
momento 4 otro un fatal desenlace.
CONFESSIONAL.
Juana Diaz.
La democracia. (Ponce, P.R.) 1890-1948, 1907-12-25
IN LA PLAYA De PONCE

En- I'm edifcio de mamposterfa,
Sc arrienda un local espacioso bitn
venti'ado con a1undante luz, propio
ara ofcina 6 agencia con dep6sito 6
cualquiera otra dependencia de CO.
mercio lndustria. Para informes di-
rigirse 4 don Mercedes Wales, en- el
mis- NO edifcio. 1916.