davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1907-11-24
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These are all extremely durable materi
ais and lend themselves admirably to
present modes. The tones of violet and
gray are. charming in these fabrics
In costumes for afternoon and evening
wear, most women find that they can fur
bish up some last years toilette in addi-
tion to what they feel that they may az
ford in new things. Last years costume
is very readily brought up to date this
season by rearrangement of trimming ma
terlals, and the alteration of the sleeves.
Broad bands attached to the shoulders
and forming sling sleeves in japanese eff
feet will modernize a gown so none but
the owner would date 1t "06." The long
mosquetalre cuffs, of lace or net are
being added to last years gowns to bring
them in keeping with the present fashion
for the long transparent sleeves.
While the suit hat should be selected
with direct reference to the tailored suit
with which 1t is to be worn, a dressy
hat may be chosen more freely. 1t is
enough that It. should harmonize with the
tone Of the dress. Black hats will be
largely used this winter, but they will al
most invariably have color in the trim
of many hats: others have wreaths of
morning glories. The much befeathered
hats are the height of the fashion, and
for most women, the height of e4traya-
gance, since these quaint and often weird
effects run into money faster than any
fad for millinery for years.
The well dressed woman must pay
closest attention to her gloves and boots.
This does not mean that either the latter
or the former must be custom made, for
the ready-to-wear boots are so well shaped
that even the most fastidious woman need
look no further for her footwear. Lace
boots for heavy street service and button
boots for dress is the general rule. al
though many women prefer button boots
for all occasions. Dull feathers, patent
leather foxing with dull leather or cloth
tops. Russian leather with cloth or ooze
calf tops, are of the smart styles for the
street we will see no more of the low
shoes on the street this winter, a fact
which all sensible people will rejoice In.
The pump will, with Its accompanying
silk stockings, be worn In Its proper place,
the house. Dressy boots of patent
leather with cloth tops or dull leather
tops ard for more dressy service white
kid boots, and slippers In suede that match
the gown In tone, are for the woman who
has ample means to carry out her fash
Ion fancles.
The short glove is again prominent,
Los Angeles herald., 1907-11-24
The Well Selected Wardrobe.
The Absolutely Necessary and the Greatly To Be
Desired : The Tailored Walking Suit the First
Consideration Then the Dressy Coat Cos
tune Suit and Dress Hats Gloves
and Boots, Wells and Neckwear.

The home woman will never suffer for
lack of business training as long as she
takes an interest In her wardrobe. How
to make the best appearance on her in
come requires strategies of fnanciering
that would put to shame your money
barons; for all too few are the women
with dress allowance sufficient for their
needs, or supposed needs.
To be we'll dressed women are learning
means to work out the wardrobe each
season along carefully laid out plan.
Decide first on the absolutely necessary
suits, hats and accessories. Then make
n separate list of those things greatly
to be desired" as the fortune tellers
have It,
A third sheet should contain list Of
''stock on hand" From these three lists.
and with a previously acquired knowl-
edge Of the colors, fabrics. and fashion
outlines of the season, work out def
mite plan in costumes and colors.
The first essential in the we'll selected
wardrobe is, and this is practically a
universal rule,-the tailored walking suit
The selection this winter Is easy because
the tailored suit styles are extremely
simple, and the fabrics eminently satis-
factory, and the colors delightfully."- be-
coming. There is really little variety in
the tailored suits-one may have the
coat anywhere from thirty to fifty inches
In length, and skirt plated or circular.
with or without bands The sleeves are
invariably full length. The coats may
be double or single breasted, and with
or without centre back seam They
are easy fitting. but loose enough to be
first cousin to the box coat-the tight
fitted style is not in the running this
year.
The materials for these suits are plain
or fancy striped or checked broadcloth,
the attractive new sldbo serge showing
black check and stripe in black on me-
iange ground, and the heavy wide vale
serges and fancy cheviots. Then there
are fine worsteds in invisible checks and
stripes and some stunning corkscrew
stripes which are distinctly new. Amy
of these will prove absolutely satisfac-
tory from point Of wear and style all
the season through
A vogue Of very dark colors this sea-
son promises the most charming effects
In the street toilcttes inasmuch as hats
and accessories In high colors may be
worn with the dull colored suit For in
stance. with the dull gray suit one sees
a touch Of purple or brilliant blue. and
Los Angeles herald., 1907-11-24
An Elaborate Party
Frock.

SILK chiffon cloth, having woven silk
dots is the material employed in this
very elaborate party frock. There Is
an undersip of thin but fine china silk
the skirt portion is accordion plated and
sewed to a little close waist There Is
front piece that falls in soft folds
straight from the neck to the hem The
back and sides have a skirt shirred full
onto a short empire waist, the waistline
marked by a braided belt of ribbon end
ing in rosettes on either side the front
panel. Bands of pufings outlined with
valenciennes lace and insertings are dis
posed over each shoulder, the effect being
that Of small bolero. The sleeves are
of elbow length and composed entirely
Of rufies of the chiffon edged with the
val. Rosettes of narrow ribbons con-
nected with n chain of twisted ribbon
decorate the front of this elegant frock,
and a similar trimming finishes the
sleeves. The separate lining permits Of
much variety in this little frock In
change Of Innings and ribbons. colorad
SILK slip, pink or blue, and a white one,
will afford quite a variety. With the
color may be worn, and with the white
slip one may vary the dress prettily by
replacing the belt and rosettes with a
sash and shoulder knot of Dresden print
ed, ribbon in soft shades.
The Teddy Benrs Came, Too.
Teddy Bear accompanies his small
master or mistress to many of the child
ish festivities at this season, and his
proper appareling is a matter OF some
moment to-day. He has his warm coat
Of plush and his natty cap, and his
sweaters and little Russian blouse suits,
quite the same as live folks. The little girl
who is here pictured bringing Master Ted
dy to a "Bear Party" is clad in a coat OF
one of the fashionable fur cloths, II
rough honeycomb pattern in white. The
coat Is loose box shape, the back held
In with broad belt and the fronts
ornameuted with two handsome white
silk frogs and cords. The trieorne hat
is of squirrel, trimmed with the white
cords. Teddy's coat and cap are OF
white fur also.
"And Some in a Velvet Gown.v
This frock Is Of black lyons velvet, with
vest and collar and reyers of pale blue
molre overlaid with rich crochet with
touches of embroidery in black and blue.
The skirt portion is laid in alternating box
and side pleats, the long waist pleated
back and front, and showing a full vest
OF silk. There is broad sailor collar and
small reyers. also Of the silk, with trim
mings Of Irish crochet. Motifs of the Irish
crochet are disposed on the bottom OF
each box pleat, and several rows Of stitch
ing finish the bottom
Los Angeles herald., 1907-11-24

hat Of the same bright coloring is
worn. Very often there is bit of this
color on a waist worn with the suit.
One well-dressed woman claims q she
always buys her hats first and selects
her suits to match them, but this would
be very poor wisdom for woman of
limited income. Select the suit first and
choose the hat afterwards. Never loose
sight of the fact that the hat is the high
light of the picture. An unsuccessful
or unbecoming hat will counteract the
effect of the most charming suit.
Next in Importance to the strictly
tailored suit is the dressy tailored cos
tune. This consists of coat and skirt
of one fabric in the former case usually
accompanied by a matching bodice of a
lighter weight fabric.
The best investment for a dressy suit
costume Is fine broadcloth or velvet in
one of the rich dark tones OF the season
Thee black-purples, the dead-grays and
the new greens are especially liked for
this purpose. The trimmings run into
elaborate braidings and heavy iaces
outlined with cords The waist in match
ing tone may be of double chiffon, which
u very bSufy WcABuL CuluoH, mdr-
duisette, or heavy flet net. The trim
ming used in the costume appears on
the bodice, and frequently the heavier
fabric of the costume forms portion
of the bodice.
The separate coat is a distinctive fea-
ture of the fashions this season, and 1t
is convenient and economic one for
most women. Unless one is very gener-
ously provided In the matter of dress
allowance, a separate coat must be Sc
lected most judiciously. For the women
who can AFFORD 1t, fur coat Is ideal,
but with fur coat one still needs a
cloth separate coat, as the fur coat is
usually dressy. The long coats lof heavy
serge or cheviot, suitable for travelling
and general over-coat wear, are extreme
ly satisfactory, while for combination
Of dressy and practical service. there
are plain black broadcloth in march
ioness or belmore styles, the former
loose, and the latter semi-ftting. that
are suitable for street service, as well
as for wear over dressy evening toilettes
where the street car is the mode Of con-
veyance.
There are many beautiful and com
paratiyeIy inexpensive fabrics for dressy
costumes such as crepes de chine.
landsdowne. silk poplIns and the like.
Los Angeles herald., 1907-11-24
Bonnet Shapes Ruched with Chif-
fon and Ribbon.

For dressy wear the bonnets are most
slashed and bent into quaint shapes, or
fascinating bonnet frames covered smooth
ly with velvet The underbrIm facing Is
feature of all these dressy hats. There
is a low bandeau made very full and
fluffy With ruchings of malinette or chif-
fon, this facing extending well out on the
underbrim. Into this fluffy frilling Is set
wreaths of tiny button roses or rosettes
of narrowest ribbons In delicate shades.
Ribbons, flowers and ostrich feathers trim
the outer portion of the bonnet. Fancy
feathers are not considered proper for
small folks, and 1t is to be hoped that this
rule will continue. for most of the plum
age of this season is quite too unnatural
to be counted good taste for children.
Velvet and ErInine Protectors
From the Cold.
Simple velvet coats in dark tones are
favorites for dress wear with the little
folks. The shades most noted this sea
son are the new tones of blue, ranging
from Copenhagen to army. the deep
hunter green's certain wines, and, Of
course, black. Occasionally one sees a
smoke shades that are SO popular with
grown-ups, but In this case the furs and
bonnet are invariably selected with
view to matching or affording pleasing
contrast. The coat illustrated is of
Copenhagen blue yelveteen, trimmed
with loosely woven silk braid There
Is a muff and cap of ermlne, the cap
having fiat rosette Of white satin rib
bon at one side. The hair ribbon which
shows beneath the cap is of Copenhagen
blue, the same shade as the coat.
This Little Girl Came in Motor.
For the small maid who motors to dane
ing class and party there is provided
warm coats of the less expensive furs,
loose and roomy enough to slip on over
the most elaborate frock without crush.
ing. Frequently the collar and cuffs are
of a contrasting fur, the white furs be-
ing especially liked for this. A motoring
cap accompanies this coat, provided with
cape piece that amply protects the bend
and ears This cap Is OF the same fur as
the coat trimmings, White caracul l. one
Of the best OF the Inexpensive furs for
this purpose.
Los Angeles herald., 1907-11-24
White Still Leads for Children Sheer>Ba-
tistes With Valenciennes Trimmings
The Plain Velvet Frock- Shoulder !,
and Sleeve Knots Best Bonnets.

Winter days bring their round Of fes-
their elders. There is the weekly dane
ing class, as much a part of the youth
full curriculum to-day as vaccination or
the semi-annual trip to the dentists.
Then there are Thanksgiving and Christ
mas parties, and for the small New
Yorker, children's day at the Horse
Show, and occasional matinees, all Of
which call for special dressing.
White remains the color par excellence
for the small girls dressy frocks. and
indeed many mothers choose nothing
but white for the daughters wardrobe
until she reaches the age of twelve.
These, however, are of the class to
whom laundry and cleaners bills have
no terror. More modest incomes leave
white to the 'best frocks," and select
sensible browns and blues for everyday
service.
Fine and Sheer the Rule.
The party frock should be sheer and
dainty. 1t may be simple or elaborate,-
for 1t is here alone that elaborateness is
countenanced In children's frocks-but it
must be fine and soft There are won
derful frocks Of eyelet embroidery on
sheer handkerchief linen, the cost of
which runs into three figures. These are
Of course imported, and to be had in
those exclusive little French shops that
cater only to the needs of the small mil
nonairess. Simpler but none the less
beautiful are the frocks of finest batiste,
Inset with fine Valenciennes. This latter
ls the type of the general run of party
lrocks.
Short wasted effects are popular with
the small folks as well as with their
elders. Very often the waist is defined
only in the back and sides, the front ex-
tending from neck to hem in soft straight
folds. Straight bands of the material
edged with lace trim the skirts, these
bands being a little newer than the lace
edged ruffies, although the latter is still
used. Sometimes the skirt has two or
three broad tueks and an equally deep
1em, these frilled with lace. Lace edged
;ufiies often form the sleeves, and there
may be yoke of lace and batiste strips
Or pufhngs.
Ribbons in Profusion.
party frock is the ribbons. This seasons
sashes are shorter than heretofore, and
ire tied with two outstanding loops that
about cover the little back. There are
braided bands Of ribbons ending in ro-
Iettes that belt in the back and sides of
little empire frocks, these being new
mis- season. Rosettes OF narrow ribbon.
rolled and twisted, are used for breast
ind shoulder knots and sleeve finishes.
These are to be had all ready made up
It most ribbon counters. or the ribbon
Jerks will usually make them up free
II charge, in the desired shade Of ribbon
Df course there are only three colors for
he ribbons OF the little mIss-white.
link and blue.
Formal FrocIxs of Velvet.
Very elegant frocks for visiting"
nndam. the French woman who presides
Los Angeles herald., 1907-11-24
Her Motoring Clothes.
Fur Fabric Goats.

The various fur cloths and plushes the
shops are showing this year are ideal for
party coats. These come in white and also
in light blues and pinks, as well as in staple
tended for dressy wear. They are made
up quite simply, and may be trimmed
with a real fur collar and cuffs, care be-
ing taken that curly fur is used with the
plain silky pushes, and a plain fur. like
squirrel or ermine, with the curled cloths.
Cunning little muffs Of the same fur ac-
company these coat and cap sets
Los Angeles herald., 1907-11-24

owing to the return of the full length
tailored sleeves. This Is, of course, only
for street wear, for dressy tailored suits
with three quarters and elbow sleeves,
the elbow length glove is still the thing.
Los Angeles herald., 1907-11-24

, over the wardrobes of many wealthy little
Miss New Yorks, tells US, are of velvet in
black or dark tones, very simply fash
ioned. One Of tine most pleasing sights of
the Horse Snow was two sisters, aged
eight and ten, who ON pony day. adorned
lower box in fashion that drew more
eyes than even their beautiful mother did
In the evening. Their dresses were exact
ly alike, simple straight little "gabrielles"
of beautiful black velvet, cut with the
round Dutch neck, untrimmed save for
deep collars and wide turn-back cuffs of
finest Irish crochet. These velvet frocks
are really very sensible, especially when
carried out in the good qualities of Eng
lish velveteens, which are not as expen-
sIve as the silk velvets and many times
more durable. The velyeteens come now
in all the rich and beautiful tones of the
season, blue being especially liked for the
little folks.
Elaborate BOnnets and Simple Coats
The very best bonnet and the very best
coat that adorns and warns the little miss
on her way to and from childish festivi-
ties seem to follow one fixed rule this
season-the former as dressy as possible,
and the latter as plain. All sorts of
quaint bonnet shapes are worn. broad
crowns with brims wide at the Sides and
dear little Quaker bopnets ruched about
the face with quillings of malinette and
wreaths of tiny roses. Two or three short
fluffy ostrich tips usually adorn the out
side of these little Quaker bonnets. Charm
ing bonnets are made from French felt
and beaver fats, slashed and bent into
poke shapes, and made very full and
fluffy about the face with finely shirred
chiffon. Soft drapings of ribbon and huge
ribbon rosettes trim the crowns, and there
are ties and rosette ear knots Of broad
ribbons.
Her Motoring Clothes.
If the family possesses motor car, our
little maid is provided with motoring ap-
parel nowadays. quite like older folks.
The comfortable fur coats of squirrel and
raccoon aud caracul are so roomy that
they slip on easily over the party frock
for the ride TO and from the dancing class
or party. There are dear little bonnet
caps of white fur for hiding away pink
ears from Jack Frost, the same white fur
is used as collar and cuffs of the coat.
Sometimes the whole coat as well as the
cap is Of the white fur, giving one the i'm
preston Of very bright-eyed little
bunny.
Fur Fabric Coats.
Los Angeles herald., 1907-11-24
Formal Troci<S Of velvet.

Very elegant frocks for visiting"
nadam. the French woman who presides
The state herald., 1907-11-08
FAMILYs SKIN TROUBLES.
Eczema, Heat Rash, and Scalp Aree.
tions Atfliet Different Members,
But Cutieura Cures Them.

MY wife had eczema for fve or six
years. II was on her face and would
COME and go. We thought we would
give the Cuticura Remedies a trial. We
did so and she has never had q sign OF
eczema for four years. l myself used
Cuticura Soap and Cutlcura Ointment
some time ago for falling hair. l now
have n very heavy head OF hair. We
used Cuticura Remedies for our baby,
who was nearly bald when young. She
has very nice hair now. She Is very
neshy. and We had so much trouble
with heat that we would bathe her
with Cutlcura Soap and then apply
Cuticura Ointment. It would dry the
heat up so much quicker than any.
thing else. Mr.. II. u. sprIngmire. 323
20. Capital Street. Iowa City. Ia. July
i6. 1905. and Sept. lG, 1906"
The state herald., 1907-11-08
Hidden sins are hard to heal.
pulaue Shops Of Mexico.

The government of the federal dis
trict is considering the most practical
and lawful way to remove the pulque
shops from the central part of the City
OF Mexico.
The government has not given II.
censes to establish any new pulque
shops in the central section of the
city, and as soon as any of the jul.
querias are closed on account of the
end of the contract for rent or any
other cause, the government cancels
the license. But there are some of
those shops. the owners of which have
contracts for rent covering ten, fifteen
and twenty years, and some of them
are owners of the buildings occupied.
The government in this case can
not count on the ending of the CON
tract to close the shops. and is CON
sidering another way to remove them
from that part of the city and still re-
spect the rights OF the proprietors.-
Mexican Herald.
The state herald., 1907-11-08
The Brlaht Firstborn.

They were discussing the law of en-
tail-the English law bequeathing the
bulk of the family property to the
eldest son.
There is SO per cent. of logic in
that law" said physician. "and If the
family property went to the firstborn,
whether son or daughter, the law
would contain 100 per cent. of logic.
For the first born child is practically
always the best-best in brain, in
build, in beauty. in everything.
'Why is this so? 1t is because mar
ried people love one another more pro-
foundly at the beginning than after
ward; for love, like all things, grows
old, grows weak. often dies.
Mrs. Craigie-John Oliver Hobbies
was first born child. So was Marie
Corelli. So was Richard Mansfield.
So were Joseph Chamberlain, Lord
Kitchener, Max Muller, Henry Irving,
George Meredith.
Look back into the past, and we
see again the prominence of the first
born, among them Mohammed, Con.
fucius. Raphael, Milton. Dante, Goethe,
Byron, Shelly and lIeine."
The state herald., 1907-11-08
Model for Rest of the Force.

While Oil City cannot, perhaps,
boast of being a strictly cold.water
town, she can. We believe. lay claim
to having among her residents the
champion temperance man of the
state. IL not OF the entire country.
Not only has he never drank any kind
OF spurious or malt liquors. but he
has never allowed any tea, coffee, soup
or any kind OF milk to pass his lips
since he was a child. He is a colored
man, was born in slavery, ana because
his father frequently drank more
whisky than was good for him. he re-
solved when a boy to never drink any.
thing but water. And he has reli.
giously kept the resolution. lie is n
member Of the OIL City police force.
and his name is Major Franklin
OIL City (pa) Blizzard.
The state herald., 1907-11-08
She Did Not Fear Death.

An old lady on her seventy-third
birthday once said, II do not mind
getting old, and l do not fear death.
but 1 live in constant fear of par
alysis.'
For some time have been wanting
to tell you of the great good your
wonderful Sloan's Liniment is doing
here" writes Mr. James F. Abernethy,
of Rutherford College, N. G. "In fact,
all your remedies are doing noble
work, but your Liniment beats all. In
my eight years experience with med
icine | find none to go ahead of 1t,
having tried it in very many cases.
know of one young man, brick-ma-
son, who suffered from a partial, yes,
almost complete, paralysis of one arm.
/ got him to use your Liniment, and
now he can do as much work as ever,
and he sings your praise every day.
| get all to use it l possibly can and
know there is great virtue in it. l
have helped the sale of your noble
remedies about here greatly, and ex'
pect to cause many more to buy them,
as | knew they cant be beat
The state herald., 1907-11-08
WILD TRIBE OF POETS.
Picturesque People That Are Found in
the Philippines.

Among the wild tribes to be found
In the Philippines are the Bogobos,
the most picturesque people in the
tropics. Their origin is unknown,
and all sorts of opinions have been
expressed concerning them. One tale
told of them is that their first ances-
tors were all poets and musicians.
and that the dislike for the practical
which is always noticeable among
them has come down through the gen.
erations.
Those that have taught among the
Bogobos say that given a song or
n poem to learn and they will study
and dream over it for hours, but give
the Bogobo a problem in arithmetic
and he Immediately becomes i'll and
wants TO go home.
Living at Santa Cruz, in the Davao
district, is Miss Benedict, a Chicago
university woman, who Is collecting
everything peculiar to the Bogobo.
1t has been found that the bead
work done by them is quite like that
of the American Indian, but there is
no other likeness in tho races be-
yond that.