The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1907-05-26

red, green and even purple. which has made
it's appearance for the first time this summer
as a color for mems wear. Some Of the dark
fannels have, in fact, a distinct stripe Of pur-
pie or mauve.
Trousers, following the tendency OF all
clothes to be smaller and At closer to the
figure, are not 30 wide as they were. The
measurement at the ankle should not eI-
coed more than II inches, while an inch less
Is the rule OF many tailors. The clothes
W orn bv Englishman are much more marked
in this change than any that our tailors have
made. They used to be conspicuous for
looseness. but now they At the figure closely.
althoug h they are not shaped much at the
hips. nor are they cut to outline the waist
either. The best New York tailors have
not vet tried to introduce this fashion here.
They are cutting the coats close to the figure,
but avoid the exaggerated curves that
threatened to be popular several seasons
ago.
The tweed suits follow the style Of the
flannel suit, although through being heavier
and generally supplied with some mini
they 1T more closely. All Of these are
made with three or four buttons. In these
worsted or tweed sacks there is usually a
vent in the back Of the coat, and the London
tailors supply also a turned back Gun which
ID BuDDl6Q WIN DuIJOIb, MI tiC WANT
coats OF the same material are cut higher
than the coats. II the waistcoat be OF the
same material as the Goa a dickey OF border
Of white linen In worn inside II. IL does
not often happen in this country, how
ever, that the came sort OF a waistcoat Is
worn. The waistcoat must be cut SUI
ficiently high in the neck 10 show above the
roll collar of the coat.
Fancy waistcoats have come on the
market this spring in a very novel style
On a white ground are stripes about a
quarter Of an inch thick that match the
color OF the flannel suit. Some OF these
are in blue, brown and grayish black. and
they are made with braid and without q
collar. Five mother OF pearl buttons are
used on them. There has been some re-
action in favor OF braid which was 30 over,
lone q few years ago. The braid has been
worn chiefly this year on white, duck waist
coats and Ia Of the same color Biscuit
colored cotton cloths in various colors
are still smart. and there Is canvas in
various shades OF mauve, BIRDS 9
shades are new and form a beautiful con-
trast to double breastd blue serge. for
instance. or the dark gray hannels' but
are very expensive, as they do not wear
well. Light flannel -w~aistooats; unlined
and 30 thin that they wash readily, have
been introduced by some OF the ,tailors;
They come usually In a cream white and
are made with imitation ivory buttons.
There are not many New workers. that
ave frock coats made In summer, weight
cloth, and they are certainly much "
than ever this year, when the frock seems
almost doomed, 30 rarely is II seen. Even
at many OF the spring weddings the usners
wore getaways, and they would have been
seen at more weddings II the bridegroom
had not hesitated to ask his ushers TO buy
new ccats for h!s sake. The spring cut
aways OF medium length are cut 20 low in
the collar that half Of the waistcoat shows
diagonal. They are. OF course. braided,
as Is the wnistcoat when one Is worn. 30
many fancy waistcoats are now worm that
the average purchaser does not buy a waist
coat made Of the same material II he Ia
disposed 10 be economical. II he does wear
the same the Indispensable dickey must
| also he there. Very dark trousers are worn
now with these coats. One suit OF this
kind recently turned out by a Fifth avenue
tailor rad tho trousers OF black striped
, with n broad line OF gray made Of finer
lines of black and white. Recently the
black aud white striped cassiineres have