The Washington herald. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1906-1939, 1907-01-27

women of America, who are, unfortu-
nately, in the minority, whether within or
without that imaginary line dividing the
social world Of the greatest republic on
earth.
There are, Of course, American women
who know how to dress Just as well as
does Mrs. Williams. Mrs Jack Astor. of
New York, according TO the English
visitor, is past mistress OF the art of
wearing clothes. while right in Washing
ton, where most Of Mrs Williams Amari-
can visit will be passed, Mrs. Dewey,
wife of the Admiral Of the Navy; Mrs.
Charles /. McCawley, who was formerly
the well-known Mrs John Davis, and
Mrs. Nicholas LOngwOrth stand pre-emi-
nent among their associates and contem-
poraries as knowing not only what to
wear but how and when and where to
wear it.
The youngest of this triality of famous
matrons is especially interesting in this
connection. as her development from an
Uniformed but always attractive school
girl, careless to a degree Of her personal
appearance. into a strikiugly handsome
and distinguished young woman, is a mat
ter Of few years. with the process Of
transformation so gradual as to be almost
unn0uced except by her closest friends
with long memories.
None Of these women. is ever known to
wear an unbecomiEg gown or hat what
ever the prevailing mode may be.
Mrs. LOngworth is naturally less con-
VentiOnal than her seniors and occasion
ally claims the privilege of making an
afternoon call in a short skirt. When she
does this, IL Is on very bad afternoon
and At the home of a very intimate friend,
and the short skirt is always a part of
becoming and mOdish suit.
As Mrs. Williams is staying with the
Perry BelmOnts, and being entertained
right and left in Doth official and resident
circles, she viii undoubtedly have an op-
pOrtunIty of studying tine Unsuitability Of
dress in America at close range, for IL
must ne admitted the majority of Wash
ingtOn women are not as we'll dressed as
they should be, whether viewed in the SEN
ate gallery on Il rainy morning, at "a smart
afternoon reception a. the theaJer, At
dinner, or at q ball The fact that We
are the most independent nation on earth
is unfortunately eXempliied at every
large aSsemblage by a too great diversity
OF costumes. as has already been men
toned ia this column.
The lady with the guimpc" is always
with us. while many people remember tho
shock given "a diplomatic dinner party
short time ago where the wife of one of
the greatest officials OF the country APP
pCared in a black skirt and high-necked
white silk bodice.
The daughter of a Senator not long ago
attended "a tea in a white silk evening
gown with an aigrettc in her couture,
and she was not a member of the receiv-
ing PARTY. either. The vision of a bru-
uette woman, in a lOw-necked. red plush
gown. dispensing punch at an afternoon
reception at a well known army home is
stu a memory of the past administra-
ton.
With examples like this right At home
what wonder Mrs. Hwfa Williams OF any
other observant stranger says We dom
dress well We don't: and until the ma
iority OF American women realize this as
their sisters of the minority do the Ameri-
can society en masse will be badly dressed,
no matter what the price of its dress
makers bills.
Among the well dressed from every point
of view is Mrs Philip II. Sheridan, widow
OF the famous general whose clothes are
so becoming that she looks Ike the elder
sister of her three grown daughters and
her soldier son. Mrs. Sheridans visiting
gown is. as usual, black broadcloth, made
with circular skirt which touches the
ground, and is deliberately trimmed in
black braid The trimming is of inch
wide flat braid, put on in IL large block
pattern from the hem 10 the knees, two
rows of braid being used To form the
blocks. which are filled in with a motif
done in soutache braid The jacket is short
and cI0se-fttiug, ending three inches be
low the waist line. The back is braided
in soutache and the front made with a
white cloth waistcoat, the latter also
heavily braided The WaistCOat closes
with invisible hooks and eyes, and is fin
ished by a shawl collar of black velvet
Mrs SheTidan's hats are invariably made
along the conventional toque lines, which
change little from season TO season, but
are always new and chic as to materials,
and uniformly becoming.
Mrs Charles II. Davis, wife of Rear
Admiral Davis. now very much in the
public eye. is another handsome matron
noted for her becoming clothes. At the
Charity Ball last week Mrs. Davis wore
q regal black velvet gown, with bodice
garniture of white lace and ornaments
of cut Jet The long, cl0se-itting skirt
was untrimmed but was made with very
full train. while the bodice was a square
cut decollete, with the jet put on in bre-
telIe fashion. the Y thus formed filled in
with point applique in white The sleeves,
which extended only to the elbow. were
of ruffles, also of point applique.
Miss Davis, the daughter Of the comman-
der OF the Missouri. wore at the same bail
a light blue gown OF striped pompadour
silk. made with round low neck and only
moderately long train. The skirt was fin
ished with a deep outside hem Of chiffon
velvet, extending almost 10 the knees.
of the prevailing hue of the silk; and
above this were two ruChings of the same
color Of tulle going about the skirt, about
four inches apart The sleeves We're
short finished with the blue tulle, as also
was the neck of the cOrsage.
Miss Evelyn Walsh wore a very effective
bali gown at her last large dance before
leaving Washington. 1t was Of mauve
Liberty satin, made with close fronts and
empire effect in the back, with only mod
erately long train. The low round neck
was finished with a slight frill Of prln-
cesse lace. extending upward inside the
satin corsage, with the short sleeves Of
the same lace in two shallow ruffies.
with this Miss Walsh wears an enormous
cluster OF orchids, which shade into the
gown. and when seated between dances
usually adds u boa Of ostrich feathers in