The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1907-10-13
LONDON FASHIONS.
by May DaHsen.)

dominate in the matter OF tailor-mades.
One of these is the plain morning coat
of mannish cut, the fronts of which are
rounded off, and which is caught at the
waist with single button over smart
Walstcoat in cloth or velvet. The coat
IN question is invariably bound round
with braid, or bordeTed with a band of
gagged or pleated satin, while one of
the points about these coats is that
they are cut in such a manner as to
present very wide appearance round
the skirts" The second favorite is
semi-fitting coat of moderate length,
the wide sleeves cut Immediately over
the shoulders and being fashioned all
in one with the coat itself, while the
fronts are fastened with three large
buttons at considerable distances from
each other. The third is the short
WASTED jacket of indefinite outline and
reaching barely TO the hips, while the
fourth is the long redingote cut in the
Directoire style and finished with i'm
mensely long coat tails, which extend
to the hem of the skirt.
The width of the gauntlet cuff which
decorates some of the new costumes is
so exaggerated as almost to suggest
the wide sleeve of a ''religieuse," and
this is invariably carried out in the
same color as the collar and waistcoat.
huge pocket flaps giving another touch
Of eccentricity to the scheme. Buttons
are ubiquitous, and are used as much
from a decorative as from a unitarian
point of view. As a matter of fact, as
many as five or six dozen buttons will
often be employed to supplement the
wide bands of soutache, which are TAX
ing the place of embroidery and strap
ping, and without which few coutu-
r1ereS nowadays seem to consider the
costume complete. In some cases rows
of soutache are arranged in close prox-
unity to each other, and have almost
the effect of a stitched velvet or of a
corduroy. In other cases bands OF
satin are manoeuvred into close pleats
and bordered with straps of the ma
terial of which the gown is made, an
excellent effect being gained thereby.
Absolute simplicity is the keynote of
the skirt of today, perfect cut being,
however, essential TO produce the right
flare at the foot and a perfect fit over
the hips. The new trotteur is almost
invariably pleated all round, the tucked
Ladder panel being, besides, still high
in favor, while the vogue for trimming
the skirt round the hem is by no means
ruled out.
Some of the new three-quarter coats
are peculiarly cut at the back. The up
per part of the sleeves runs right into
the back and there are no shoulder
seams; needless to say that coats of
this order require to be manipulated
by very experienced hands. Dark blue
tailor-made costumes, made in the
style described, will be very much worn
this winter. The new shade of dark
blue. which is not so very dark, har-
monies delightfully."- with black silk
braid, and very effective touches OF
color can-be introduced in the waist
coats.
Waistcoats viii play an important
role in the world of fashion this VIM
ter. They will be made of every known
material-from fragile lace to velvet.
Than waistcoats of Irlande nothing can
be more fascinating, especially when
costly buttons are discreetly intro
duced. Really handsome buttons cost
a good deal to begin with, but then
they never wear out and can be used
again and again on different costumes.
With the rather severe tailor-made cos
tunes, such as those described, small
details of the toilette-waistcoats, shirt
fronts, ties, etc.Awill assume a most
important position, because much will
depend on them.
1t is quite one of the latest fads of
ultra fashionable women to have their
waistcoat buttons. their hat pins and
their parasol handle all made to match
I have seen the loveliest sets in pink
and purple quartz set in tiny rose -lia-
monds or in crystal set in thin rims of
gun metal Hat pins do not properly
come under the heading ''Tailor-made
Costumes" but 1 must just mention, in
passing, that they are now very large
and that in all cases they must bear
special relationship to the hat with
which they are worn.
Banana brown and cinnamon are IA
vored combination of coloring. A dis
tinctly chic costume, carried out in
these tones is the following: The coat
of banana cloth, has a large, double
collar of cinnamon taffetas, large pock-
cts and deep cuffs of the same, fin
ished with the same colored buttons.
The coat itself has a light, graceful
tracery all round of soutache braiding.
and an inner vest or soutache of CHINA
mon taffetas, which Is fastened by
means of invisible hooks and eyes, and
fitting tightly, while the end divides
into two parts, fall almost to the end of
the skirt front, and give length. At the
breast is placed a large bow of the
same tone of velvet. The skirt hangs
FULL and has inverted pleats at each
side, and is bordered by a deep shaped
band of taffetas. lightly soutached
where the two materials blend. The
sleeves are quite long.
An innovation in tailOr-mades is the
free use of passementerie, both as
motifs and as garniture. Also
the "shawl''-not the old-fashioned,
shawl, but specially
shawls in many novel
designs and materials-will prove one
Of the favorite novelties of the coming
season. Some are made with fringes,
and others with classic bordering, tar
tans with plain borders, large lined
checks in cloth, tweed and Indian cash
and various other novel de-
signs. The tartans and checked tweeds
will be chosen for morning toilettes,
while the cloths will serve for after
noon and more dressy gowns. Every
thing depends upon the arrangement
and drapery of these shawls, and with
taste and discretion most charming re-
suits are arrived at.
The mixture of two colors on plain
ground, forming large checks. is con-
sidered the most distinguished. This |
mode points to the tunic and polonaise |
of the skirt draperies, ac-
by plainly but smartly cut
coatee. In some cases the skirt will
De plainly killed and the fantasy al |
owed full scope in the coat. This is al |