The San Francisco call., 1907-01-13


average bust and a long waist-one, in
fact who comes very near the point
OF perfection in flgure-need have no
trouble with the new corsets. But IL
she has all the other points except
the long waist she viii find herself up
against q hard problem. The smart,
new figure is exceptionally long
wasted, and in order to make this
point pronounced corsets are now
made with a very long side back.
This long line from the shoulder to
the hips is the secret Of the princess
gown" explained a corset maker to a
client who sought to be built over ac-
cording TO the latest measurements.
Hips and bust may be padded if they
arc too small" she continued and If
they are little too pronounced il is a
simple matter to lace them in; but the
long back line so essential to the per
feet wearing Of the princess gown is
not so easily managed. II a woman is
short wasted in the back and she in
sists on having princess models, then
we lengthen the waist Of the corset and
make the upper part just as long as she
can possibly wear it; so long. really
that it comes quite up to her armpits
which serve TO keep the corset down
where it should be.
Some corsets we lace in front and
some in the back. There are women
who have grown so accustomed to the
old straight front that they have some
trouble getting the waist back to posi-
tion and size that it used 10 be. and
to these we recommend the front lac
ing. This arrangement gives a little
more freedom to the muscles of the
abdomen, and they are able to compress
the waist by degrees. so that in time
it can be laced in quite small. DO 1
think the princess gown responsible
for the new figure? Partially; but
my opinion is that women were tired
Of their large waists and wanted TO be-
long TO the wasp class once more. The
high bust is a direct result of the small
waist You know flesh has to go
somewhere, and If the waist is drawn
in, then the abdomen. or rather the
flesh over it, is naturally pushed down
and the bust pushed up. and the hour
glass figure is the result"
But what do physicians have to say
about the new small waisted woman
after almost a decade Of eulogies writ
ten and preached on the straight front
and its conformity to rules Of health?
When the straight front became an ac-
cepted part Of wOman's wardrobe there
were physicians-women physicians,
tOO-who asserted that they had come
10 stay-that after women had let their
waists out from two to four inches and
had ceased tight Iaeing waists could
neyermore be pulled to the old-time
measurements one has been quoted
rs saying that two or three years Of
freedom for the waist muscles meant
eternal freedom from pressure-that all
the kings horses and all the kings
men could not succeed in pulling such
a waist into the tiny circumference
that held it before the adoption OF the
straight front And the explanation
was that by this freedom the muscles
were allowed to grow and expand, TO
become firm and hard. She went on
TO say that il was a simple matter to
lace tightly the waist OF a young girl
whose muscles had not become set. as
it were, and that the generation of
women then in their prime had small
waists because they had been confined
in tight corsets for many years. But
once let these women allow their
waists to expand and then see what
happens when they try to lace them
in again
Her predictions are true to great
extent Women who have passed the
age of youth and who are determined
TO get themselves back to the hourglass
outlines are having no little trouble 10
manage it. But the physician in ques-
ton overlooked the old saying that
where there's a will there's way"
and, with the modern woman bent on
looking her best and being OF fashion
able shape, there is decidedly viii,
and the way she has found to the small
and long waist is 1 rough the strongest
and best built stays to be had and laces
that will stand any amount of trgging
and pulling. In a word, the modern
woman who does not possess fashion
able high-busted, small waisted figure
by the gift OF nature is struggling her
best to acquire one by the aid OF her