The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-07-08
WESTERN FREAKS OF DRESS.
THE LATEST COMBINES TROUSERS
AND WAISTCOAT.

Long Goats and Low shoes That Astonlsh
New Yorikcrs- American Negligee Dress
the Best In the World Proper Modes
10 Fellow Expensive Haberdashery.
George B.. Winter, the london tailor who
has come here to make the army's clothes
6t better, will have q wrong Idea OF Ameri-
can taste In dress II he takes It Tor granted
that what he sees on the streets is typical
American dressing. There are certain
STYLES about which he should be especially
warned II he Is to have q correct idea OF
well dressed Americans.
Mr.. Winter should never take 1t for
granted that the young men with long coats
falling to their knees In uhe back are con-
sidered we'll dressed. These coats, which
are ready made and como from the West,
are az much OF a shook to New Workers az
to any ono else.
Equally shocking to conservative taste
are the low quartered shoes that have
lately arrived from the West In this city.
These anomalies Of footwear are not only
made with buttons, which 10 an unforgiv-
able crime in the manufacture OF q low
ouartered shoe, but they have colored
uppers.
One pair Of such shoes seen the other
day had above the patent leather q oroad
band Of gray chamois, which was IN turn
edged around the top with patent leather
It would be q matter for national regret
to have Mr.. Winter or any other foreign
expert on dress think that such shoes were
here regarded as good style.
New York aocumulates some strange
freaks Of fashion during the summer months
when visitors come here from the West.
It Ia in shoes that the greatest freakinees
is exhibited.
Last summer visitors from the West
here wore low tan shoes fastened with
straps, like high sandals. Three OF these
straps crossed in front and were caught
with a buckle.
The West has recently sent New York
some specimens of a garment Intended to
supply the place OF trousers and waist
coat. The trousers are made with a piece
Of cloth extending far enough above the
waist to look something like q full dress
waistooat. Buttons are added to mako the
resemblance greater. The dreadful sug-
eestion Is made that these trousers are
meant ~ be worn with a outaway coat.
On the other hand, Mr.. Winter may find
here Just now examples OF what the best
American taste is in matters Of dress, be-
cause In summer clothing the American
tailors have gone further than the English.
American neglige dress IL the amartest
THE two piece flannel suit is very likely
to be made Of English material and cut
after an English model, but the New York
tailor will finish his work much more care
fully thar the Engish tailor. As II is worn
to-day 1t serves the double purpose OF
The sack coat, with It's three buttons, Of
which one is never used, and Its deep rolling
collar and the turned up trousers are all
features OF smart suits this year, Flannsls
should rarely. be made up in the double
breasted fashion. -,
That is, in the first place warmer and In
the second more difficult to At thar the
single breasted style. A double breasted
coat Is difficult to ft under any cdrcurn,
stances and needs the aid OF snnenins a ann
best tailors never suggest, therefore, q fan.
mel suit made up In this style.
II. is not only in devising the external
articles Of summer dress that the American
makers % well. Inc hanero sS saeI ~, aas
shirt and drawers Of tho finest MADRAS and
linen. 3,
They are made up in the same shades Of
blue, pink and mauve used for the shirt
which must nave inc uOuDlo 0OlI JUL dho
are also plated. These suits are 80 ex.
pensive as to be beyond the purses OF any
but the wealthy. The shirts cost &c.. the
undershirts IS and the drawers a.. making
SIS for the complete outfit, Of which 1t ID
necessary to have a dozen or more.
The attitude Of the men who were mos
opposed to the new soft collars has changec
somewhat since the warm weather ha,
shown how useful they may be. They are
principally intended for wear in the country
or when travelling.
They nave no place in city wear for q
we'll dressed man. In t4wn they are dis
tinctly bad form as e stiff white linen collar
, is what one should wear.
These collars do not wilt in the warn
weather. they do not feel 30 olammy anc
, uncomfortable under the effects OF perspira'
3 ton, and one will last through the warmes
day.