The Birmingham age-herald., 1906-10-07

'NhF
 The separate wrap Is destined to doml- nate the clothes question for street and all outdoor appearances for the coming season, dietum that will be welcomed by the smartly -gowned woman and her of slenderer purse with about equal en- thusiasm.
 Seldom Is 1t that fashion so cleverly combines style and economy, us Is made possible in this way. For one thing the present vogue of dainty little frocks for indoor wear made from those pretty sliks-and, by the way, the siken shirt waist sul. is reappenrins under many new guses among Paris modcls-that are not so supple as heretofore and not by any means as stiff as runfor threatened us with In the earlier weeks of the sea son. will go charmlngly under separate wrap, while If the ordinary coat and skirt suit be retained for street wear, a complete change of costume Is necessi- tatcd.
 They are long, all long, those new mod els-thnt Is, they seem quite long when compared to the smart little wraps that ruled the summer season. Three-quarters and seven.elghths lengths prevail but the tall woman-and she is less in the minor lty today than eyer-will undoubtedly take to the full-length style, that com pletely covers up the gown. and so serves to detract trife from her apparent height.
 So far as shape. however. is concerned, It would seem as though Madame La Mode had said; ''Go as you please. If full and loose affairs suit you best, we'll order those; If the tightly fitted designs that define the figure smartly, are more becoming to your allure, well, command your tailor 10 follow that style. All that Is demanded Is that you suit your own particular style and build to the very pest and most becoming result"
 The French makers are leaning might fly to that smart bias seam down the center of the back, with which they Nssuredly do secure some of their most fetching effects. In closely fitted skirts, too, one can readily tell the French cut oy the presence of this seam, and more nlluring flare was never achieved than they turn out by this means
 Plaids are held in the highest est steem nbroad. and some of the designs and colorngs displayed are artistic in the extreme. Pastel tints are mostly fa- vored, and the melange of coorings is such as was surely designed by master of tints and nuances.
 For example, one smart coat illustrated on this page has the ground in n pearly
  barred in hair lines that show delicate lilac, q mnuve and n soft, rich violet tint-a scheme of colorlng that is eX- quisitely emphasized in a scant applica- ton of medium tint of cloth that fairly embodiea all of the three shades quoted. The elan tartans of Scotland, with all of their historic memories, are among the more popular of novelties. For quite sometime the makers of the mode have been leading up to those, and ably have the manufacturers of cloths, tweeds, mel tons and other materials suitable for de- velopment in comfortable separate wraps seconded those efforts The Clan Mae Kenzie. Clan Gordon, Clan Stuart, Clan MacTayish and other of the quieter com blnatlons that employ soft greens, browns and blues for background, and depend for distinction upon bars and hairlines of more brilliant coloring, are in the high est favor and deft touches of plain cloths that will either contrast or harmonize with the round are employed with charming results.
 The little Capucine coat Is one of the novelties that cannot fall to meet with an enthusiastic reception. Suit ed alike to the maid and the matron, to the girl of 16 and the woman of 60, one will see it time and again during the sea son. It requires cloth of q good quality, however, for its best expressions: so that t Dlus 1alr 10 escape tne oVerWeenlnB pop ularlty that has killed off too many of our charming modes long ere their ap- pointed time was run.
 One might almost term this design a sleeved cape, so full Is the cut of the coat. Setting squarely over the shoul- ders, the fulness begins to ripple into uuted folds once the shoulder blades are passed. The side seams follow the same smart flare, and the fronts are double breasted, so cut that the double part presents plain panel appearance that contrasts well with the fitness that ap- pears elsewhere. Over the shoulders there is posed the Capuchian hood that gives its name to the coat. This is usual ly lined with soft silk in brilliant hue, and when pulled up over the coiffure the color of the hair and eyes are well set off the selection of the lining be ju- diciously made.
 Trimmings are highly important in the new scheme of things, where the wrap is concerned. Their mode of application Is usually planned so as to emphasize the best lines of the coat, and many novel applications assert themselves. Pockets, too, are delightfully."- numerous and con venient;e and are tucked In just where one might least expect to find one. so clever A the cut