The evening times. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1906-1914, 1906-09-28
The Chasuble Eject.

Velvets and their close congeners,
the velveteens, resume the triumphant
run, that was interrupted only with
the warm weather. The late arrivals
in those favored goods from Paris
present many novel features. the most
striking of which Is the prevalence
OF the very long skirt with generous
train along the back. In the attract
I've style illustrated the chasuble eff
feet is introduced on the coat, this
proving equally effective on both tall
and short figures. The gown is in
one of the reddish-brown shades, that
are promised Such vogue once the
cold weather arrives. while the braid
and the handsome cord ornaments
that mark the chasuble corners are in
black. The braid presents a wavy
weave that lights up we'll, giving al
most moired appearance. The coat
is closely fitted underneath, the mod
ish short-waisted effect being plain
ly marked, and ripple pleats are in
troduced in the side-back seams with
excellent effect. The skirt is of the
extremely full circular variety, fitting
closely around the hips and with over
tapping pleats at the back placket
Entirely guiltless of trimming, the
skirt depends upon perfect cut and
still more perfect fit for all of its
cachet. The hat proves that the fancy
for the picture shapes and styles is
still regnant; the many plumes that
make its garniture being somewhat
irregularly disposed at the left side
Chiffon velvets.
Those sheer and shimmery chiffon
velvets are sure of maintaining the
couturier's favor for an indefinite per-
iod. Firstly, because they display
their costliness in each and every line
and fold; and, secondly. because they
show up to the uttermost advantage
each little attempt at trimming or
elaboration that may be lavished upon
them. Work is not lost when put on
chiffon velvets, as it is on some other
materials that claim to hold fashion
able favor. The charming gown pic
tured, the creation of Partisan art
list, makes use of the prevalent craze
for the bolero and the lace blouse in
conjunction, and adds to this cein-
ture, we'll boned, of soft satin, to
match in tint. The velvet is in one
of those crushed-fruit colorings that
take on the dead red tones. and a
braid that takes in those tints, re-
lieved with much silver and gold bull
lion threads, makes for trimming eff
feet. The short sleeve of the bolero
is deeply pleated in the front seam,
this making for smart fullness;
while the lace sleeve appears for a
short distance below. The skirt is
managed with a gored cutting, deep
fold, headed with tucks, being dispos-
ed so as to give the effect of double
skirt, and similar fold appears on
the slightly stiffened hem.
Modish Costume.
A clever adaptation of the bolero
this chiffon velvet gown, in which a
those novel mixed and half tints is
exploited. AS usual, there Is blouse
worn beneath, this time Of Mechlin
lact and blush shade of chiffon. the
lace making the round yoke and the
chiffon the rest of the smart little
garment. The bolero is so cut as to
display to advantage the yoke part of
real lace, and heavy Italian crochet
is used to border the little Jacket eff
feet, each rose of the lace being cen
tered with rOsette of velvet, having
strass button to hold the pleatings.
The sleeve is short and puffy, the
ceinture plain and we'll boned, with a
marked dip in the front, and velvet
covered buttons make for good trim
ming effect. The skirt is of grace
fully full circular cut, a bias band,
haircloth lined, serving in lieu of
hem, and two tucks above this are
threaded with heavy cord, through
which the featherboned cording is
run to maintain some semblance of
stability in the skirt around the foot.
Coats and Short Sleeves.
For the days of early autumn, when
the wind blows chill, there is a strong
desire to get out the heavier possess
sions in the wardrobe. and even to
add some little furs or furry access
series to the toilette. The fiat and
collarless neck of the autumn styles
lends itself we'll to such suggestions,
and where fur is hardly required
those smart boas of tulline or of mali
nette will be welcome. A very grace
full effect is given to a long coat of
rather severt sleeve cut in the use of
a chasuble, of ecclesiastical cut and
suggestion, that hangs loosely almost
to the waist line back and front.
Handsome cord pendants are posed on
each corner, the front cut away to
display the embroidered silk vest, and
the waist line is lifted trifle to give
that spring which makes for such
style in the later models. The sleeve
is full and pulled, gathered into a fiat
band of the trimming braid halfway
above the wrist. The skirt shows
plain severity of cut, which the we'll
draped fulness does much to dispel,
the fronts and sides lying on the floor
for a couple of inches and the back
frightening itself into a train that
reposes for half yard or more on the
carpet.
Suggesting, but not slavishly fol-
lowing, the Empire mode. this charm
ing gown will prove an equally be-
coming model for debutante and dow
ager alike. The little blouse is in
cream white I.ierre and with a doub-
lure of white chiffon that serves to
throw up the dainty design in bold
relief. Just the regulation house pat
tern is followed in this; and the piece
is separate one, so that any given
number of blOuses may be worn with
the velvet gown and variety of APP
pearances so easily arranged. What
one might term the bretelle straps.
that run over the shoulders to catch
in the girdle both back and front, are
wide enough to cover the blouse alto
gether at their lower edges. and ex-
quisitely wrought hand embroideries
make for richness of effect. The
girdle offers an attractive note of con-