Herald and news. [volume] (West Randolph, Vt.) 1878-1943, 1906-03-08
PORTO RIcAN LETTER.
Miss Lucia E. Wood Describes Sea
Voyage from Curacao to San Juan.

Mr.. EDITOR Would you care to give
your readers q letter from Porto Rico
II so, the present month, when snow
ought to be flying in Vermont, is the
time they may like to think about green
fields, sunny skies and warm winds.
First, shall | tell you OF the delightful
little sea voyage from Curacao to San
Juan (For unlike most visitors from
"the statesp ] came TO this tropical
island from one that is more tropical, tho
far less beautiful. Curacao, the largest OF
the Dutch West Indies, Is situated in
latitude ~ n, and is one nights sail
from the coast OF Venezuela. Receiving
notice by cable on Friday evening that ]
could have an appointment in Porto
Rico, made il necessary to do some
hustling to be ready to sail on Sunday
afternoon. The Jew merchants close
their stores on Saturday, of course, so
that some last purchases had to be made
on Sunday morning, when all the stores
are open until noon custom as shock
ing to New England ideas as any / have
met. II was warm work, altho' it was the
9th OF December, and there was no time
10 indulge in regrets at parting. However,
II was pleasant after all was ready, TO re-
ceive the cordial good wishes Of everybody
concerned, and 10 sail out OF the harbor
with such enthusiastic farewells from all
be sorry.
The steamer was the Red d liner,
Caracas 1.-THE same on which | made
the stormy passage in November, 1901.
The captain was the typical sea-captain
as we all imagine him, a sturdy, rugged,
jolly man OF the sea-spinning yarns that
the unInitiated must beware Of erediting,
ana dearly loving a joke. ] confess that
on my first trip was green, aud when
asked il i knew he story OF the empty
box could not even suggest that there was
nothing IN It, but this time the captain
had 10 acknowledge that he had not heard
about The wooden wedding and ii was
fun to tell him that two Poles got mar
ried
Here is the captains story about New
hampshire winter climate. A man in
northern New Hampshire died ana went
to the bad place. When the proprietor of
that region came around he found the
new man rubbing his hands with pleasure
and saying. "What a nice warm place
Heaven is !" On being informed that il
was not heaven, but the other place, he
was still satisfied. "Well, never mind, +"
he said, ''this is good enough for me-"
This story, when told me, would have
been loested IN Vermont. but for the fact
that the captain, like most people outside
OF the two states, can never remember
that Vermont person is not from New
Hampshire.
At sea the air was more bracing than
anything / had experienced for more than
a year, although at first we went south.
Al six Monday morning we had reached
La Guayra, latitude 10, the seaport for
Caracas, aud were under a dark wall of
mountains which rise 10 the height OF
5000 TO 1000 feet directly from the waters
edge, leaving barely room az the foot for
the railNay track which English enter
prise has built from the seaport TO the
capital. II ascends the mountain side by
easy grades and a circuitous route until It
reaches an elevation OF about one mile,
then drops over into the high valley
where Caracas is situated. This ascent IS
said to be one OF the finest scenes in the
world, and lying in port here made one
crazy to take the trip. A pleasant Dutch
gentleman on board assured me that / had
time to take a train and 60 up half way 10
Caracas. meet the returning train and GO
on by the same boat, but the captain
would permit nothing OF the KIND lie
wished TO be able to take a cast-iron oath
that his passengers had not been ashore VA
Venezuela, as that would save them from
going into quarantine az San Juan.
However. the varying greens, browns
aud blues Of the mountain picture, the ma
tive huts clinging to the lodges, people
climbing about like goats on the preci-
pices. the brilliant Venezuelan nag, yell
low, blue and red, waving gaily from the
fort perched some hundred yards up the
hillside, made an interesting study Tor the
morning. Also the loading OF the vessel
chiefly with hides and coffee, made an I'M
preston by reason OF the smells, and as
showing the cheapness Of human labor
The sacks OF coffee were carried seVerel
rods. from the train to the boat, singly, on
the shoulders of natives; the hides, too,
singlv. on their heads. In Caracas the
same thing is noticeable. A steamer Is
often coaled by row Of negroes carrying
baskets OF coal scarcely blacker than
/ themselves, while in North America this
would be done by steam and the conee
sacks at least piled high on trucks.
But am keeping you at La duayra az
most as long as ] stayed myself. We
sailed at noon due north. The Nenezue-
Ian mountains were visible from our stern
All the afternoon, the lofty blue peaks
sometimes yelled with soft clouds OF daz-
ling whiteness in the tropical sunshine.
A fresh New York daily, not more than
nine DAYS old-what might be called
damp from the press" IN these remote
little attraction IN eompari-
son TO mountains for mountaln-loVlng
sves accustomed during thirteen months
10 one Ntllhu nf0NAs NhRNrA
island. .-.a. ..ki,a
Our 3 o'clock dinner was triiie behind
time. How happened that on THIS ever
pupctual ship? II was Chris mas day-a
fact which had scarcely been called 70
mind all day aud could with difficulty Be re-
mem hered in these unusual surroundings.
Pnt The nurser aud cook had remembered,
and provided a magnificent spread. Inc
fanles were enlarged and elaborately
trimmed and the menu was crowded WIN
GOOD things-the ''piece de resistance
being roast sucking pig with "glazed
annie. The captain was festive IN evening
dress. and in holiday mood, though the
company was very small. The Two othes
ladies on board were not sufficiently, good
sailors TO sit through CHRISTMAS ulhnel'
NJ hen the captains stories became too IN,
helievable, some passenger would REMIND
him that We we're approaching the vicinity
~ pelee. He carved the Christmas cake
binseIf and sent generous plates Of dessert
To the absent ladies. Query Did ne lot
oct whv they were absent
once more on deck, the stars were our