davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1906-02-04

at recent premiere, several well-known
beauties appearing in what brought out the
catchword ''Is it a hat?" There were rolls
of velvet and spangled chiffon, there were
jeweled pins of strange design. there were
a.grets eight or ten inches long and broad
in proportion, single ostrich plumes. and IN
some cases there were diamond clasps.
Such materials call up visions Of theater
hat of an elaborate order-don't they? But
then the Partisan always has sartorial
surprise at hand, and in this instance par
TALLY hidden in the heart of all these fur
bellows there were coils of hair uncovered
and visible to the naked eye II the latter
CHANGED to be In the right position. The
puzzle is what exactly constitutes the diff
ference between headdress and a hat?
Must hat have crown? Can crowniess
mass of feathers and sparkling stuffs be
objected to as a hat? Who Is going to de-
eide these. mighty questions? Not Paris.
Tt will be amusing, though, to watch TINS
little affair as the spring dawns Paderews-
ki, it IS said, will be with US then and the
famous Pole will not, or cannot, perform
before hats What VIII happen?
AS I have already said too much on the
subject of hats might as well say a little
rect tilt Paris is divided into hostile
camps Go to a o'clock at Rumpelmay-
er's and you will find almost every ethsr
woman wearing chapeau with bandeau
measuring from five to seven inches in
height Go to the Ritz Sunday afternoon
or to the reception of some grande dame
and you will see most of the women wear
ing Qualntly deSishSu h<itS iieeii5 qa,eo ,t%s
to the head-mushroom affairs worn right
down on the head after the manner OF
Queen Victoria's garden shape. THESE
chapeaux have certain charm but the
style only suits fresh. young faces. The
hair for the mushroom hat must De ar
ranged low and full support In the
shape OF a narrow bandeau is present, but
the dropping shape gives one the impress
sion that it reposes. all around, immediate
ly on the head of the wearer. This Vieto-
rian hat which now has huge velvet
crown and is trimmed with an immense
aigret, will in month or so appear In
chin laden with a wreath of roses or
adrr rned with ruches of silk and chiffon.
And by the way have you ever noticed
how a becoming hat will alter the carriage
of the head? How erect and eonndentiy
n will he held when topped by Rue de la
Paix creation. Apropos of hats. was call,
ing ON a lovely old lady who lives in an old
house filed with pictures and books ana
was informed that ! had on charming
Evening star., 1906-02-04

vogue for afternoon wear during the spring.
We have seen these costumes developed In
charming shades all winter for reception
and theater gowns. but a little later the
streets are to be made gay with their pres-
ence. II Is to be hoped that this style will
not be abused and worn for shopping In
the morning Lettuce green Is the ultra
fashionable color for the pastel suit, and
as yet has been very little exploited, ex-
cept by the exclusive few. The preferred
colors for pastel suits are the pastel green
and beautiful shade Of red called crushed
raspberry. Du Barry pink, mauve. parma
violet and. last but by no means least In
Importance. Chinese blue. This color Is ex-
ceedingiy hard TO get In cloth, although In
all the o.iental stuffs and in linens II Is
easily foun.o. AS high lights on the Chinese
blue cloth suits Continental bun, or. as we
now designate It, ehamois. appears In the
grise OF faclngs and insets on collars ana
cuffs As this combination has not reached
the masses II is to be desired by the woman
who wants an afternoon gown out of the
ordinary.
II Is queer how fashions change. Not
long ago a black walking suit was the
height of smartness. and II IL still good
gowns for day wear have not come back to
the wardrobe Il once occupied as a fashion,
able and elaborate costume. White cloth
Evening star., 1906-02-04

gowns for day wear have not come back TO
favor, as was confidently expected. The
novelty now seems to be the pastel cloth
gown perfectly tailored and smartly
adorned.
A really stunning suit OF pastel cloth has
recently been turned out by Doucet. The
skirt is long and circular, with seam down
the front.
The waist fullness at the back and sides
Is put into tiny tucks. At the foot of the
skirt is a deep hem above which is placed
six-inch circular ruff1e that opens in front
and is finished with a fold of the cloth.
The coat Is short, reaching only a tritie
below the waist line, and follows the line OF
the figure without being close-fitting. 1t is
double-breasted and fastens with rows OF
tiny metal ball buttons put very close to-
gether. The darts are high. which gives
the high-chested effect so essential to the
new style of Jacket Between the rows of
military fashion, and the collar around the
high neck is double turned-over' flair of
cloth inset with velvet. The elbow sleeves
have knife plaitings of silk under band OF
velvet, and to soften the plaitings quillings
of ecru princess lace peep from their edges.
The circular skirt of the spring bids fair
to outshine in gracefulness those we have
been wearing. The fare below the hip
line is greater, and the foot line is fin
ished with wide hem stitched by hand.
Any trimming one desires Is placed over
this firm foundation. To be smart the cir
cular skirt should always be long. The
short trotteur jupe is attractive, but its
unfortunate tendency to sag has brought
Ii many enemies
Just word about the new figure Paris
is insisting upon and every smart mon
daine is acqulrlng-the fiat hip line. The
hourglass hip is hopelessiy out Of it. The
melting curve is the line of beauty to
conjure with at the moment. If a woman
have it not, her dressmdker and corsetiere
must supply the attractive curve" by let
ting out her waist measure and thereby
bringing the hips into line.
The next week or two will bring 10 light
many fascinating modes to be adopted
for spring and summer costumes. Mean
while the fabrics for these confections
are on view. and the wise woman will
make early purchase. Especially is
this desirable for the American woman.
The buyers for large firms in the United
States only take over a small supply OF
novelties which later in the season can
not be duplicated. even here in Paris.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star., 1906-02-04

ckapeau and would come again tomorrow
af g. / feel that I might as well send round
the hat In fits bandbox at teatime, but then
I am sure neither of US would be asked
again if I did SO. To give further evil
dence of clothes effects l have even been
beguiled into feeling quite French and frivo-
lcus In q flne net blouse all Aiencon hufft-
ness and trimmed with a lot of embroid-
cred childish pink roses and green ribboss
Then many people have been known to be-
ccme quite slangy In checks. and this re
minds me that there is humorous poem
which has a moral worth recording about
a good young mar who bought New
market greateoat of racy build by aeci-
dent and forthwith descended the slopes of
Avernus and ended as a billiard marker.
These inanimate things, whose capacity for
cussedness we all admit must be endowed
with some kind of intelligence often ex-
ceeding that of their owners. really shall
be obliged to think that my clothes have
more sense than have IL l so on like this
Sc n truce to nonsense
The shops are crowded with the airiest
sort OF summery materials. all echoes for
the most part of last summers favorites,
with their beauty intensified. Silk and
linen mixtures which held such undisputed
sway are to be again the things for smart
wear. To be sure. this fabric Is dainty in
the extreme, but IL has the great drawback
OF mussing easily. There Is also silk and
Evening star., 1906-02-04
What Harm Our Thoughts May Do.

Orison SWEET Marden In Success
we should be appalled, if we could see
pass before us, in vivid panorama. the
wrecks caused in a lifetime by cruel
thought. A stab here, thrust there. a
malicious sarcasm. bitter irony, ungenerops
criticism, jealous. enyious or reyengefn,
thought, hatred and anger are all going out
constantly from many mind on deadly
missions. Servants have actually been
made dishonest by other persons perpet
tally holding the suspicion that they were
dishonest This thought suggests dishon-
esty to the suspected perhaps for the first
time, and, being constantly held. takes
root and grows, and bears the fruit of
theft The old proyerb 'If you have the
name, you might as well have the game"
is put into action many times. It is simply
cruel to hold a suspicious thought of an
other until you have positive proof That
other persons s mind Is sacred; you have no
right to invade 1t with your misera bic
thoughts and pictures of suspicion
Many people scatter fear thoughts doubt
thoughts. failure thoughts wherever they
go; and these take root In minds that
might otherwise be free from them and
therefore happy, confident and successful
Be sure that when you hold an evil un-
healthy, discordant, deadly thought toward
another something is wrong in your mind
Learn to radiate joy, not stingily. not
meanly, but generously Fling out your
gladness without reserve. Shed it in the
home, on the street. on the car, In the store
everywhere. as the rose sheds its beauty
and gives out it's fragrance. When we learn
that love thoughts heal, that they carry
balm to wounds: that thoughts of harmony
of beauty and of truth always uplift and
ennoble: that the opposite carry dea.h and
destruction and blight everywhere, we shall
learn the secret of right living.
Evening star., 1906-02-04
WEDDING PRESENTS
BY MARGARET e. sANGsTER.


When Jean and Tom were married they
had a remarkably fine setting out for house,
keeoing. Jeanie's father built the house
and presented 1t to her, and her mother
superintended the furnishing. Everything
was on scale of the utmost comfort and
everything bespoke refinement. and cultured
artistic taste There were hardwood floors.
high ceilings, walls covered with paper that
would make charming background for
nictures there were mirrors set in doors.
wide stairways and bits of wood carving
that were worthy of such young people as
the two who were to live in the house, and
that was saying much.
The rugs, tapestries, fine china, cut glass
and bric-a-brac left nothing to desire, and
the curtains at the windows were a dream
of beauty. Jeanie's Aunt Caroline who
came on for the wedding, from bare little
home In Montana, a cheque being sent her
by Jeanie's father for the purpose. stood
transixed with admiration. Dear child"
she said, twenty years ago / thought
myself used to luxury, but have lived in
a mining town as a missionary's wife so
long, that / have forgotten Its very alpha
bet I felt like the old Massachusetts dea-
con who, when he first saw carpet laid
pect to enjoy all this and have heaven, too?
DO you really think. Jeanie. that you can
be good and simple With SO many lovely
things around you?"
.'I shall have Tom, Auntie," replied
Jeanie. bFushing.
.Ah well. Tom may turn out a discipline
One never can be sure beforehand about
husbands"
Jeanie protested Indignantly.
my dear Aunt Caroline, Tom Hazeiteen
is a perfect angel. and much too good for
me. Come and let me show you the we'd
ding presents"
AS 81 the custom with fortunate brides,
Jeania had chests of silver, pearls, rubies
and diamonds, pictures, statuary and books
The home would be so thoroughly appoint
ed from the beginning that 1t was difficult
to imagine lack anywhere. and 1t was
probable that Tom and Jeanie would Alto
gether miss one of the chief delights OF
poorer couples-namely. seeing home grow
daily in beauty and sweetness before their
eyes, while they worked and saved and de-
MED themselves to procure this or the other
coveted treasure.
They went away on their wedding journey
and were gone four weeks. At the end OF
that time they sat down to their first dinner
In their own home. Jeanie at one end of
the table. Tom opposite her. Jeanies
mother had sent her own cook and waitress
to prepare that meal and serve 1t properly.
From the Mttle cold oysters to the final
sweet Through the several courses, 1t was
dinner to satisfy an epicure.
The trained servants left In the evening
Evening star., 1906-02-04
The Simple House.
a American Homes and Gardens.

FROM American Homes and Gardens.
The simple house must not only be SIM
pie, but it must be good. It's simplicity is
not that of mere bareness-that Is some-
thing quite different. Simplicity in house
design does not mean a mere denuding OF
ornament or It's deliberate omission: 1t
means that the house must be designed in
a simple way that is also beautiful. Sim
plicity of design Is based ON structural de-
veIopment. In the hands of the skilled de-
siglier these structural lines become also
lines of beauty. The constructions. there
fore, becomes beautiful construction, and
the simple house Is achieved In natural.
beautiful way.
Pfainness severity. commonplaceness.
barrenness, must not be confused with SIM
pIicity. There must be artistic effort or the
house will be completely wanting in exter-
nal merit. A fussy house will not neces-
sarily be made beautiful by stripping 1t or
Its ornament. II may be bettered-at least
It will be rid Of unnecessary parts. The
evil Is more deeply rooted than that; 1t lies
In the very bone and sinew of the house,
and the remedy. IL there can be remedy,
must be applied to the whole structure.
Mere plainness In house building has no
positive qualities of excellence. A house
that Is merely plain. and with no other
quality, has nothing else to recommend 1t.
The simple house, the other hand. has
beauty in its simplicity, a beauty due to its
fine lines and TO the harmony of all the
parts.
Evening star., 1906-02-04
Home Life of the czarina.

From harper's Bazar
A charming. simple home is the Alex
ander Palace. But there is one room
which must, / think. have been-must
still be-supremely painful. 1t is the Ii
brary, paneled with mirrors. against
which are affixed. like brackets. small
half models of all the vessels in the navy
the mirror completing the image. 1
had the use of that library during the
summer 1 spent at TzarslEoe Selo. and
paused most frequently latter selecting
my book before the odd circular Pop
oyka, named after its designer. Admiral
Popoff Not in this palace does the tzar-
ftza have to wear the adaptation of the
national costume which aKtherine ii es-
tablished as the court dress that Is re-
served for national" days at court such
as New Year day. the Epiphany Easter
and so forth. That Is the costume which.
in miniature. and in pretty adaptation OF
the kokoshnik Cor coronet), the empress
has provided for her four intelligent and
attractive little daughters on special oc-
casions Such is the coronation gown
Gin cloth of silverl. which Is preserved,
together with all accessories, down to tbs
gloves, fan, stockings and slippers, In
the museum of the Kramiin In Moscow.
Evening star., 1906-02-04

through the many pictures that have ap--
peared of her, and the full, all around
pompadour dropping somewhat over her
forehead In this she wore no jewels or
ornaments.
The cream-colored satin gown was evi-
IDENTIFY a princess robe fashion she is
fond of. The bodice began well below the
bust line. The shoulder straps of emerald
green velvet were long and perhaps a lit
tie over an inch wide; they were edged
on both sides by the narrowest possible
ruffes of white lace. These straps ex-
tended over the shoulders and to some dis
tance below the arms before they reached
the bodice in either the front OF the back.
. The bodice was evidently tight fitting,
and from the top in front pointed va
lance section of heavy white lace drooped
almost to the waist line at the sides and
below it in the front. The top was straight
across and running around under the arms
a bit, the top coming well below the arms
eyes. In the back the lace rose little at
the side, forming small side points. to
which the velvet and lace strap were at
Evening star., 1906-02-04
Off 1sneIua@5l B5@ngt }

front was q bit of rare old point over
which was fastened her diamond and en-
erald stomacher. The sleeves were merely
a new work of pink crystals that extend
ed over the shoulder curves and half way
to the elbows. On her coiffure was her
diamond tiara with huge emerald In the
center.
Unusually gorgeous gowns were noted
at the opera Monday evening Mrs. Philip
Iydig wore one of the most striking con-
fections, striking from its cut rather than
its material, although the latter was a
rich creamy white satin with a lace top
and emerald green velvet shoulder straps.
Her hair was done high with the knot at
the crown made familiar to the public
Evening star., 1906-02-04

showing through, and also the upper part
of the skirt to below the hips. The gold
was really applique or paflleted onto the
velvet. and this somewhat irreguiariy at
the bottom.
Mrs. Harry Lehr wore an exceedingly
smart princess robe of green velvet of that
peculiar shade seen in a certain bsueish
greenwood moss. The bodice was cut in "
shaped points In both the front and the
back nearly to the waist line. but the VS.
were filled In with similarly shaped sections
OF heavy point lace, and the sleeves were
each wide cape effects in the same rich
point. No green at all showing above the
corsage. The lace of the sleeves covered
the shoulder curves and Joined the side tops
Evening star., 1906-02-04
PARIS FASHIONS.
PARIS. January 90. 1905.

PARIS. January 20. 1908.
7HE gay Partisan is responsible for
the theater hat puzzle. which for
the moment is occupying the at
tention OF all Paris. When at the
play, II you want TO prove that
YOU are thoroughly in the movement, you
must fix one eye on your friends head
cover and exclainl. "fs 1t hat!'' No an
swer has as yet been found. and I firmly
believe none will ever come to light. This
puzzle would never have existed had 1t not
been for the noisy agitation OF the '.just as
good as anybody else" theatergoer who In
sistently declared that he didn't go to the
play to look at hats. At first every one
smiled sweetiy at the remark. ~then the
'.just as good" not being taken seriously.
spoke his thoughts in pubiic-more forcibly
than poiitely-thought Nine. Partsienne.
who flicked her darkened eyelashes and en-
tered into consultation with her pet mil
liner Result: The puzzle.
The conundrum was successfully launched
Evening star., 1906-02-04

aspire to excellence, but IL is not worth
while to be worn to shreds and reduced to
nervous exhaustion in the process. Aunt
Caroline returned to her little cottage in
the mountains, stronger and cheerier for
her eastern trip, but she was not in the
least surprised when after awhile Jeanfe.
wrote her saying: you were right about
our having too many beautiful articles to
look after, but you were wrong about Tom.
He is more of an angel than ever
Evening star., 1906-02-04

back. and rather c,ose In front, with coat
sh2 ped sleeves Fine lines of Jet went over
the shoulders of the jacket and down the
sides OF both the back and the front slant
ing toward the center
Mrs. Bayies hat was a large, round one
or pink velvet and tuile. trimmed with pink
roses and tulle under the brim and around
the crown, while over the left side near the
front dropped two pink ostrich tips Sev-
eral exquisite shades OF pink were combined
In the hat-one of the prettiest seen this
winter.
Mrs Burke Roche was also present wear
ing her wonderful long chinehilia coat
which has the stripes forming the border,
the cuffs and collar running In the opposite
direction to those In the body of the coat.
Some gorgeous gowns We're worn at Mrs
Millss cotillion. Mrs. stuyvesant Fish Was
In rose pink velvet cut straight across the
top and having short sleeves. and effect. a
e"' = ~rld lsce or gold embroidery. This
--- ..s0st cf the bodice. the velvet
Evening star., 1906-02-04

tached. and in the middle the lace ran
down in an open v. showing the wearer's
classic back to within a short distance of
the waist line. Turned away from this
open V were sections Of lace but not deep
ones.
Mrs. Norman Whitehouse, who made
perhaps her first visit to the opera Mon
day evening. wore charming gray chif-
fen frock. 1t had little, short puffed
sleeves, the large puffs made of innumer-
able smaller ones. apparently being shirred.
The bodice, modestly high, was cut square
and finished with ruchings of the chiffon
At the waist lines the folds of chiffon were
drawn in to the waist under a gray girde
The skirt was full and fell in sweeping
folds Mrs. Whitehouse, who is one of the
prettiest and most attractive of the young
matrons. had been said to be ailing this
winter but appearance belied these vague
and apparently false reports.
Mrs. john Davis of Washington. who was
In the box with Mrs. Lydig, wore a fetch
iBg gown of white. figured in large loose
clusters of pink roses and foliage or pos
sibly it was painted gauze over white silk
at distance strict accuracy cannot be
reached in such details, the effect being
about all one can get across the MetropoIi-
tan Opera House. The gown had deep
pointed bodice and the skirt was plain. II
had high decolletage and the sleeves were
soft fiuffs of lace over the shoulder curves
that fell half way or more to the elbow
r
Mrs. James Speyer-the Speyers have
take the Alexander box for Mondays
wore a superb gown OF two shades OF
mauye satin brocade with bodice of velvet
heliotrope covered with purple jets ana
steel decorations. 1t was cut with round
corsage and elbow sleeves of the velvet
Sections of steel and purple spaneies re-
se milling semi-circles were arranged IN
curying lines on the sleeves and body OF
the bodice and also around the edge OF
the bodice. Frills of lace finished the
sleeves. The trained skirt was OF light
iieliotrope satin brocaded, with medium
sized designs some distance apart of some
sort of leaf In different shade OF mauve,
or. rather, light heliotrope. Mrs. Speyer
wore her long string of diamonds. Her
coifrure was done high with the bit or
gray hair at the front arranged to bring
out its artistic value.
Mrs. Pembroke Jones-the Joneses hare
the Ganbrill box for Mondays was in a
cloth OF silver gown forming q princess
The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1906-03-06
PETIT, FAMOUS CATCHER,
STABBED BY A WOMAN
Jealousy Results in the Serious
Wounding Of Former Red
Star.
(specIni to The TImes- Dispatch.

(speclnl to The -Dispn,ch)
CINCINNATI, March 5.-istabbed by n
jealous woman, Heinle peitz, sformer Red.
and under contract to play with the
Plttsburg Nationals this season. is suf-
fering with serious wound that just
grazed his heart. Much mystery Is cast
around the affair by tho family and his
attending physicians.
Saturday It was announced that ho
was suffering with pleurisy and that he
would be we'll In week and able to
take his place with the team in n month.
Now he may never play ball again
Who tho woman that stabbed him Is.
no one but Peitz knows, or at least no
one processes to know. 1t is a,thorita-
lively stated that tho stabbing occurred
Thursday night about o'clock, and tho
woman who did the stabbing lay in walt
for him and plunged the dagger into his
breast as he was entering the house.
Three OF the city's most skilful surgeons
and two trained nurses are In attend
auce.