The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-05-01
H=..sMORB EAZZARI DINNERS.
IFhs REAI
r.wors slRfasLDI PLICE ON
ntFfy ISL1VD CIOsER

A., W., SeVsr Allowed "a Dre'ase'
t~s,.r'saoo moro Tho naws VII sarry
.,t.f d, many fefsnns. nnf only IN y sbous
o. York civ but lu vtfious places ~
ps country where 70 memory ~ . dlnner
"a t.ysryt 10 ons NJ ma hhppteat reco''
l%s.tf,rs ~ yisit ~ 'o metropolis
F,s fasmfi's wss RI place - good dinnefs
,..gs.t uoJer conditions that never lost
,..,, s~oyaltv. even after ready hcceas
D., tts tis brown hniao m tho hili ~ Ho@ss
l,,s 4t,tsp faland. brought tho" Hfker
,.r,,s.e, ~ dinera which lessan the oideT
,s,,,as feelings II =mlproptietorshlp In
such . place ~.
t~sss,f'a closed Inst nlsht In the hll
,,,,, N rfoapefty. II did not last tNl
H. -a.ms lacked o' a. he the n OF
v,Yrger a%rirlta." 49, has been tho fate 81
Enc .,UHr roiol tpH'o d'h6tc fea'aurants
If ta mo,r,polifna district. almost with
,t, .~,r.tIsn. rUera wa no fickcr Of
duu.ry l,phta, rI struggling patronage
dv.nH.rg tl tho I%fainess iar'ed, Papa
f,gau g.,saI the doors % his own house
s.a r,anumrt, aul whom he has dispcsed
II H. furnishings he will raze ls walls
and ru lIue / will urn tho land over 10
an Industrial concern TO which ho has sold
f. For himEalfl Papa will take him with
IA. family about linn to tho Adirondack
Mountains and there enjoy an atmosphere
moro hprencrnt 10 his asthmatlc affection
fnan thr air OF staten Island.
one mrrk ~ the restaurant that made
th,t r.rt of station Island q place OF pill
grima ge will remain on tho Rosebank
hilton whom f3,'ory p%rofancs tho haunt OF
the epIcIr"s.
sThey wanted mo 10 sell my bust Of Carl
heldI' Iaz2nrl exclaimed Ia deep offence
They want it 70 keep here aud put up In
front Of the factory
And did you sell it1'
NO / would never sell GaribaldIl'
A pun on the pipe-a soothing and CON-
soling puT-and thenPapa speaks again:
I'm give them the bust to keep here
So tho Garibaldi place" the name by
which strangers have inquired for Lazzarfs
restaurant for a generation, will still be
marked by the name and features OF the
Italian p%atrlot, who has been a lifelong
object of honor by Lazzari.
La2zari had his restaurant first down on
the shores Of the Narrows, at Rosebanki
in the house where Garibaldi made ALLOW
GdIlNllt'N, III COMPANY 'ANh hN'NN 49, 'N'~
countryman, whom many persons believe
to-day was really the inventor OF the tele-
phone. Meucci did invent or devise a
telephone AT about the same time that Bell
and others did so, and his defenders have
insisted that he was defrauded of his honors
and just dues when the patent was granted
to another.
Lazzar from the first vas faithful to both
Garibaldi and Meucc,, and when his dinners
proved so attractive that business outRrew
the humble building by the waters edge
he bought the larger house and a large
acreage IN on the hilltop, named the new
place in Garibaldi's honor, Caprera Park.
and removed to IL the boiler which Carl
haldi and Meucci had used 10 make the
candles.
This boiler, housed in brick, visitors to
'the Garibaldi place used to go out and
look at, after looking up at the, bust OF
Garibaldi over the front door, and arrang-
ing for dinner.
which Fate was powerless to harm, dis
turb or annoy No hating, squeamish or
faded palate but found in the variety Of
ante-pdsti a provocative morsel upon which
to nurse appetite, and tho hearty eater well
coined them all appreciatively in an indis-
criminate m6ldnPe. And tho small and
tender Holsters which characterized the
place! Lazaari belongs to a society for
wv IltNtl VI lVppNVio " E" Cl'NNhVol /
so OF course there could be no undersized
ones sold there; but wonderfully SUCCESS
full he was In capturing the tender ones.
and he certainly wal u good guesser at the
size limit.
But the -fritto-misto,' while not the
piece DC resistance, was certainly tho dish
Of the love and admiration Of tho epioure.
There Is no English equivalent for Lsz-
2ari's f~ritto-misto; the translation Of the
words means nothing, The preparation OF
this dish in it's various combinations made
tho place worth n visit in itself. The ten
der, young, green asparagus, fresh from
papa's brothers. farm in Virginia ana never
marketed; the caroIoilnl, green peas, fresh
mushrooms. calves brains and veal cooked
30 that it was tender as sweetbroads, and
Romstimcs the tenderest of green summer
tquash-these prepared as one table dish
by Mama Lazaari made converts OF the
PhiliStines,
Rut no man may tell Of all tho courses
Of tho La2Zari dinner without cruelty to
the hungry. Indeed, II was n savage Joke
that was played sometimes to watch ones
stranger guest feast on these earlier courses
and then struggle valiantly with each tooth
some succeeding one, torn between appe-
tite and a rotributive conscience.
The patronage Of Lalaari's was varied.
Some wears ago people used to go there
in carriages or on horseback, residents Of
the island often riding over there for re-
frcshmonts, Small walking clubs, or q
few persons who enjoyed a walk, would
exercise pleasantly sp~dEiorengehen ego
walking for plcasuro), IA the Germans
have it-and with appetite 10 whetted
stop AT the .Garibaldi place for luncheon
or dinner, From the city the train was
the only way, and then the elusive rostau-
rant, hidden behind n hill from the station;
was difficult TO find. The trolley came
after a while, and eventually-irony Of
new railroad station was made
200 feet from La2aari's, not for the benefit
Of the Garihaldi place, but for that Of q
brewery rest aurant, and yet Lazzari's re-
NAMED hidden; no sign directed tho trav-
cllar TO its dolectahle perch on the grassy {
slope under tho tees, Those only went j
here who knew the place. Some Of these {
In the later days anne in automobiles; but {
although the patrons were many, Lazzari @
never cheNpened his dinner, and TO the t
end II remained the best table d'hote about
New York
In fine weather, with the sun setting {
hehind the higher hills and Lazzari's
lighted only by the indirect glow Of the
hour, there was no pleasanter place
10 have a table set t4nn on tho uncovered
veranda, forty feet broad, Bankers, lit
erary mon, journalists, artists, city hotel
owners and managers seeking something
from their own restaurants.
theatrical stars and managers, and hosts
plain, ordinary citizens who knew and
valued the Italian cooking (supervised,
strangely enough, by a German, for Sig,
1 EHn Wa IL "a 1870 - l.