The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1906-12-04

In spite of persistent attack made on
the popularity of the separate blouse,
it's sway seems to remain undisputed
by the powers that be, for we have
lovelier ones, and more of them, posi-
bly,, this season, than ever before.
There is one noticeable point to be
mentioned in connection with them.
however, and that is, they must eth
err be very handsome or plain to the de-
gree Of severity, the medium of the
simply pretty waist with a few tucks
and strips of lace having thrown quite
out Of the reckoning. So, it appears,
the personnel, as one might say, of the
separate waist, has. become quite as
/ distinctive and various as the skirts
with which it is to be worn.
Only a very elaborate waist is allow
| able on occasions at all formal, and
then preferably with a skirt of the
same color, if not of the same shade,
although this latter point is not abb
solute There is a return Of the net or
| lace skirt, accompanied by the blouse
of taffeta, or other silk, a style IN
vogue with the original shirtwaist sea-
son, and very attractive are some oil
the combinations that are being shown.
The hostess at a recent high tea was
very charmingly gowned in a costume
of this sort. The skirt was of Brussels
net, god old-fashioned net, and it was
cut in many cores, each joining the
other with a band of half-inch black
velvet ribbon, while at the bottom
where these cores all fared properly,
there were several very tiny net rutfles'
meeting in point between the cores,
and slipping under the velvet seam
band. The bodice was dull pink
messaline, a pastel shade, with a jump
err over it, fashioned out Of the net and
velvet ribbon. There was frontpanel
tucked crosswise, and side pieces
tucked lengthwise, which were Joined
together with velvet bands, the velvet
tying in long loops at the shoulders.
The combination of heavy laces with
chiffon or with Mechin, Valenciennes,
and other fine varieties, is another in
| teresting feature of the seasons
separate blouse One of guipure has a
| bolero of that lace, edged with a fine
! Valenciennes over front of chiffon,
the bolero joining over it with two
small velvet bows. The sleeves, which
are a series of chiffon ruffles, have caps
of the guipure edged, like the bolero
with Valenciennes. Almost invariably
in blouses of this order suggestion
| of it carried out in the girdle or the re-
verse order; as, for example, in this
case, the bows are made of the same
velvet as the rather high, shaped girdle;
or, if there is a hint of color in the
/ lace, or a colored lining, then the girdle
is of that particular shade.
Still another combination bodice and
perhaps the most strikingly pretty Of
all, is designed to be worn with Prln-
cess skirt Its foundation is chiffon, a
baby waist made entirely in a series Of
horizontal puffs three inches wide, the
lower puff meeting the top of the skirt,
and almost concealing the joining line.
over all these puffs there is Irish lace,
| four sections, front under-arm pieces,
and back. The back and front form
rounded points, while the under arms
have straight edges. The sections are
joined at the top to form Dutch neck,
and held in place by two bands of half
inch velvet ribbon, with two loops and
a tiny French gilt buckle. From UNI
derneath one Of the loops an end of
velvet extends in a line with it out over
the shoulder it, too ending in loops and
a buckle. Two others at the shoulders
and band around the bottom Of the
sleeves make chic sleeve-trimmings.
The sleeves themselves are Of the puffs
like the waist.
Many of the waists, like the one just
described, have removable yokes and
are so. finished that they may be worn
without any if the waist is desired for
an evening bodice. Nothing could be
handsomer, or more all-round service
able, than heavy lace blouse topping
a skirt of mauve or cream-colored satin
broadcloth.
It is poor economy to try to make
an elaborate waist of mediocre quail
ty of lace, as nothing shows it's value
to a greater degree than lace although
one may often pick up the real thing at
bargain prices
Next to the lace waists, those of
satin, crepe de chine, embroidered
chiffon, or of any of the beautiful en-
broidered cloths are most effective.
For those who can afford them, the
hand wrought Italian silks are about as
| lovely as anything can well be. They
come in waist pattern lengths ready
worked, or may be made to order in ex-
qriste flowers or conventional designs
usually in combination of laid and
English eyelet embroidery; but, as even
a simple one costs some twenty or thir-
ty dollars for the work alone, they are
Injuries, and not practical for the vast
majority. However, even here the law
of compensation holds, for there are
some really beautiful patterns to be
had at about-one-fourth the price, ma
chine made, which the woman with
cdever fingers will "do over" That is
she will pick out thepattern here and
there with French knots, do bits of
English eyelet wherever there is a
possibility for it, as in the flower CEN
tres, or perhaps even work in a few
threads of gold or color, and, presto!
who says the waist is not handmade?
With such wealth of elaborate silk
and lace waists, it is not to be wonder
ed at that dainty unassuming lin
gerie blouses have been rather forced
to the wall For the winter only, of
course for there is little reason to