davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12
Tailor Talks Joyfully About the Prospectus Mans
Sonbre Attire a Poor Compliment
10 the Women?

mans complexion and hair Is he svelte or has
ne corporation? How ridiculous would IL be
TO put a crimson collar in proximity to red
nose, one neutralzing the other. It is conceiv-
able that the future tailor will say 70 a patron
allow me 10 perVert my materials to suit your
face and limbs. Have surgical operations per-
formed and come back in a month. Compare
this with the servile tailor Of to-day who cheer
fully fits bow legs and cuts down coat collars to
accommodate hanging ears.
''rhe more you consider it, the larger the i'm
portance OF this revolution. American men are
notoriOusy ignorant Of the fine arts, and their
meaningless clothes tends to keep them ignorant
stand paintings? Because they have studied
color and form in their garments. AT five years
OF age boy bids long farewell to all graces
OF attire. while a girl learns that these are the
chief occupations of life. or rather the sine qua
non of getting on the chorus, acquiring a fob az
a stenographer and winning husband. II men
have the same education, they will show the
same results Think of the time when men will
go to department stores and infallibly match
ribbons, saying to the clerk, How dare you foist
the champagne shade on me when l asked for
lemon? Imagine financers in Wall Street feel
ing Of one anothers habiliments and saying, Is
that crepe de chine, old chap? No. Ball, it's
mousseline de Sole This knowledge of clothes
Will lead TO an appreciation Of all art. People
Will not tolerate chromos In their houses or
museums they will demand q better grade OF
municipal statuary, insist proper stage set
tings in the theatre, and call for chaster style
in patent medicine ads.
mo revolution springs up quite spontaneously
and without pioneers and martyrs. The sar-
tortal movement has hero roll both OF taorS
who have gone into bankruptcy with unbOught
stocks OF scarlet and gray suits and Of men who
have been ridicued to death for their noble taste
In waistcoatS There alive to-day a pair OF
watstcoat heroes. one an eX-wine agent and the
other politician, who have been knocked in
funny columns from Maine to California. What
was their offence? To be original and beautiful
around the waist line. They wore blue crea-
ton with white and yellow pollxa dots bafore
breakfast. After breakfast they put on a cocka-
too green with gold stripes. Two hours later
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12

tney encased their stomachs in a mauve and
PINK fancy At noon they wore sprigs OF cab
tell the hour OF the day and the nature az fhe
junction by the changes Of waistcoats a SHORTY
req TOT tne racetrack. rich harmony for the
UIRLd' snlitlnS, lrid1Scent design for the no.
AucaI pIatfOrm and a festOOn OF tails for the
monkey dinner. Withal. there were friIIed
pleated' hard and soft shirts; buttons OF ali
sizes In coral ivory and gold: and the yyaistcoat
ltseIL IL mad a tantalizng change Of decOlIete dis
SSouhung the much discussed peekabOO I re-
hanokerchiefs and finger rings. perfumery and
DOutonnleres worn by these men. They v-ers
OF these heroes and martyrs in q great cause .
1hey are so eTnbittered to-day by undeserved
ce!Sure !S and Fidicule that One understand has
cameras when people try 20 memorfaIize his nat
J terms. POstertty viii reward these martyrs with
SoauesS statues showing what they did and
dared about the gastric area ~ '
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12
THE TAIL0Rs' DREAM.

THE hour has struck" said New York tailor
exultantly, scanning the dispatch. Tis the
knen of commercalism and ugliness in male at
tire. At last we artists Of the cloth have begun
an international movement that gives scope 10
our aspirations and viii not stop until man is
arrayed like the peacock. All, the wasted years
OF black clothes built on the model of a coffin.
Alas for the epoch OF readymades and hand
me-downs! 1t is a glorious renaissance that
dawns for the profession and its victims-I
mean, fits patrons. What was the pre-Raphael-
ite movement IN art? Nothing compared with
our heroic attempt 10 get away from the funereal,
sordid monotony Of the age and bark back TO
the period Of slashed galIoons. red coaks, curled
shoes and feather hats. see in the near future
a Broadway crowd looking like the chorus Of
a comic opera, the downtown business quarter
resembling masquerade party, old gentlemen
with white whiskers tripping over their swords
as they enter the subway. purple clad newsboys
selling yellow extras and prismatic cops tanning
sleepy hoboes. whose ultra large boot soles give
space enow for justice.
You see what an enlargement OF the mind
and capacity % view the future Is impaired 70 a
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12

reform meets opposition. People ri9ss1 s,l Tso1l9
DR.. Mary Walker in trousers. ana tnssy,,.ts tnsy b
probably do the same about our 49, scfeas
semi-skirts. A valuable feature OF ~ "a. III cos-
ts the opportunity to try various sinus s,o- IN
tune on the public and see how nuCu 80 - eon-
stand. A rising vote OF Vegetapies =. - 7brt tol-
denim purple trousers and yellow COes, Cs,I5 coult
crate a milder combination we - = vess-
each hit against anC each miss for ~ g. ia
table apparently meant Tor lie 80 49, h,,e n a.
trousers, we would split the direreilIS' - v-ouE
egg spread itself over the whole sun w., W nois
withdraw the style. after taking 80, Rad nss
whether some new brilliant cOmoihatloii ~
been discovered by the mishap- che rsvo-
THE last and greatest meaning OF - - <.srfoi.
luton dislike TO indicate. because u y e1isne
TO give offence. Yet II ought hVs VSs.l;e,,srs n
anybody, but rather rejoice al -, sSIo,Trr,rlshr
science and freedom WhaJ = 80 az men do not.
reason that women dress gayly anu ~ ,,r0vs ths
Nature, with a few exceptions tl'9' ,[-,onq the
! rule Is against the human practiee -5scl-si O
animals The male Is the gorgeous oils' ,N - Look
az the peacock, the rooster tle tsL. ,landTil-
named liOn the bearded btilygoat' t4lo s v-av o
the turkey cock. All are adorned - V,,-aistcoais.
another. having natural taiiCE rrbs female
breeches. hats. collars and Sochs- ~ we %
wears the SOmbFe and plain atSIe- -,-sfure bT
assume that man has improved on 80 severe
chivalrOusly exchanging the gay iOl iOl.Sa1gs. tar
costume? On the contrary, thst S.-sI unius:
from chivalFOus, tokens the uiillos uiill ms placed
and dependent position in whleh l.'r. a BID for
woman. Fine dress in nature mes hes,, coHlpli@
favor from the opposite sex u S,,srine, for
ment or chivalry, as most people lie csiSe away
man through economic devices 70 ,.,oEo hoc
woman's natural right as chooser ana N'
a subject OF choice. - tha rSV~
''NOw you see the inevitable resutt tbsr ~ agols
OlutiOn- Working hand IN hand WisH y 'ssSs NUS
cies for wOmen's emancipation u -, 49, v-oriaG
shift the badge OF gilded inferiority - v7il %
to man. The normal relation OF He-VS y VSsTrlililiy
restored. All the feathers and fEiis Sts he re
must gradually accrue 70 man. VIZ W.. c-Ills
woman wears any old thing. us us. - ths W.
tOngs and shies the powder pun ou' W SSo s0llole
extreme OF her partner. nor sInoso n is ros
pipe on the strength OF sack g Co.. .,r Oars.ss
necessary either. that men shoulu s~isl aE.ss55
on both wrists. Leave Il to Us - se-LSSo-ofIoa sr1
and we win arrange things IN tou7i
with due regard Tor inherited taste-' ..- 90.
pending this great reform ~. ~ eSr SIS =
measure YOU for one Of our Noous 49, tl.y\
dark eheviot? Tail0rs can't lve o4 80 -
ana YOU eou't lcoA exactly Ike maNvH
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12

James. think Will wear my magenta
trousers this evening"
''Yes sir. With the lace border?'
mo. The plain style, with two red stripes
It's going TO be a very quiet affair. and don't
want to look too conspicuous. Give me that
aaring tailed coat in sulphur and cream"
low about the waistcoat, sir?"
LET me have something modest in violet and
with vermilion dots. The four inch pearl but
tons with rhinestones are tasteful, don't you
thinkg"
'Han the rage sir. They suits your COM
pleXi0n. sir
$50 think, James All. It Is rather dihlcult
70 navigate with these high heels, curled tip
shoes especially when a man is wearing corsets
We New Workers VIII soon be like the Chinese
women. unable TO walk without assistance"
4 ope not. sir. A business gentleman as to-
"Ha, ha, ha! j such ridiculous sight
on Broadway this morning. James. An innocent
old auntie from the backwoods. dressed in a
blue skirt and gay feather hat. such a cos
tune as women used to wear. When she saw
her gaudy appearance in a shop window in con-
trast with the sober browns and blacks OF up
. to-date women. she almost had a fit. The recol-
lection makes me hystericaI. Pass over the
smelling salts. my boy"
"WiI you carry a chatelaine tonight sir?"
Yes, need II Tor cigars since tneSe CLONES
have no pockets. James. James, we have made
terrible mistake, and I fear it's too late 10 do
/hnything,'
you make ny cart stop, sir. What is it?"
These magenta trousers look green under the
electric lights. It's an impossible shade. Oh,
why didn't We think OF It before? 1 haven't
time 70 unlace and put on another pair Cut
the strings James Give me the smelling salts.
I'm almost crazy"
rms dialogue floating through the window of
Hh'h avenue bachelor establishment was
-eard The other day by an imaginative person
who had been reading Of the change in mems
evening attire eecreed by London tailors Tha
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12

high class breeches artists OF the West End, 1t
was cabled, had sent out samples of fiamboyant
creations rivalling the dreams OF Partisan men
y1nilliners A revolutionary blue coat, poem
and a rnelodrama in CLOTH with velvet collar and
silk facings. will be worn the coming season by
all perfect gentlemen, so it is said. Trousers
or knee breeches will be optional" hasty
cable requesting more light on this dubious
statement brought the reply that the English
language was to blame; optional refers to either
rather than none. Taking it in this sense. the
trousers or knee breeches will be for the present
Of black cloth. the longer garments having two
rows of braid on the side seam. Gilt buttons
will be attached wherever they will be most
ornamental and useless. There is an alleged
similarity to the costume OF footmen and that
recently prescribed for gentlemen of the King s
household
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12
THREE LEADING Evils.

DIR Bernard Sachs. who is consulting alienst
20 Bellevue Hospital says: Il feel most strongly
regarding the entire system Of engaging experts
in medico-legal cases. II has three great evils
In the first place. the experts are called by the
parties to a suit not by the court itself In the
majority Of cases the medical man thus engaged
will listen 10 the incomplete evidence which the
counsellor who IS eager TO have his testimony
places before him. The counsellor will naturally
enough suppress facts which are damaging to
his cause, and the medical man is frequently in
Siuced to form an opinion which he would not
form il all the facts Of the case had been pre-
sented to him IN an unbiased fashion. do not
believe that many medical men would consent to
give testimony contrary TO their own convic-
tions; IN fact. know they would not.
IN the second place. medical testimony is
elected at the present day on verbal examina-
tion and cross examination in court. An under
standing between counsel and his medical ex-
pert as rule, precedes the prearranged, more or
less dramatic scene in court All the actors are
well up in their roles. and a hitch in the pro-
ceedings viii occur only if the expert witness.
or. forsooth the counsellor himself. has altered
the part he IS to speak. if the medical witness
finds, while in court that his own conscience will
not allow him to stultify himself On cross
examination the medical expert may consider
himself fortunate if his motives are not i'm
pugned and if he is not accused of being in the
employ Of one or the other party to the suit.
During a verbal examination the most por-
1entous questions are often expected to be de-
cided offhand, and the man Of greatest ora
zorical power possibly of greatest gift Of CAB. is
the man who makes the deepest impression upon
the fury. have had too many conversations
with lawyers not 10 know that the truth of the
testimony ELECTED on the stand is not the goa
they aim at; they consider only the effect which
testimony viii have upon the minds Of the lay
fury who are 10 pass their verdict upon purely
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12

The approaching trial Of Harry Thaw for the
killing OF Stanford White. the architect. Will
,orobably be accompanied by a battle of the
al.enists over the question of the prisoners SAN
stv Certain experts OF renown Will probably
sesfifv under oath and for big fees that he is
mentally unsound. Certain other experts OF
eausl renown will probably testify under Oath
and for big fees that he is perfectly sane Thus
will medical science be brought into contempt
end the public be once again 6isgusted by the
whole system OF adducing expert testimony IN
court as at present conducted. It. therefore, is
Of timely interest TO speculate If some remedy
cannot be- found for this unhappy state OF az
fairs and The Tribune has collected the views
OF a number OF well known men upon the ad-
visibility Of the establishment of a permanent
board OF commission Of alenists paid by the
state The services OF its members would be open
20 both parties IN a suit or prosecution wher-
ever the question OF sanity or insanity might
arise. and If the commissioners then disagreed.
as they might no could, find in that fact oc-
casion for doubling that every member was
giving his honest opinion. For. in the nature Of
things all the questions on which they would
be called upon TO pass judgment would gem
orally be doubtful, and most of the present dis
satisfaction rests not the belief that alienists
are not sincere but rather on the knowledge
that they are in a sense advocates, sincere, but
not impartial.
There seems 70 be little doubt that the pres
ent system is far from satisfactory. In re-
cent years some noted cases seem 10 have re-
Siuced themselves: to struggle between the state
and the defence as to the sums each could af-
ford or was willing TO pay for experts AS a
matter OF fact such an exhibition defeats its
own end. No matter how honest the expert
may be, the jury. perhaps unconsciously. finds
q bias in his testimony. Both sides being equally
offenders, the whole performance reduces itself
TO a farce.
It is a fact worthtnotcing that the system OF
paid witnesses has been severely handled sew
eral times in judicial opinions. and frankly at
tackled in a comparatively recent decision Of th'
Court OF Appeals. In various other states at
tempts have been made to combat it, and II
Michigan law is on the statute books which
provides for the fixing Of expert witness fees an(
limits the number Of such witnesses to three
except by consent OF the court given in extraor-
dilary emergencies. Here are the suggestions
for improvement which The Tribune has col
9ecfad.
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12
A GOOD IDEA.

DR.. H. Valentine Wildman was OF the opinion
that the average juryman invariably thought q
paid expert was prejudiced in favor OF his en-
ployer, and, although the suspicion was in al
most every case groundless. 1t was too deeply
rooted to be overcome by anything but a radical
change. He approved heartily Of the establish
ment OF a sanity commission, and suggested
that it be composed OF six alienistS whose ex-
perience in the examination Of the insane had
been gained by at least five years service IN
some public position. such as the psychopathic
ward at Bellevue DR.. Wildman also said, "Of
course no opinion should be rendered except
after ample time for examinations. In the
course of time these opinions or dispositions
would accumulate and furnish expert opinions
on every phase OF mental disease, and would
greatly conduce 70 the uniformity and certainty
OF Verdicfs in insanity trials"
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12
SOCIAL DEVELOPMENT IN MISSOURI

We are getting dead swell in this good town
We eat ice cream with a fork. Some time ago
we learned to make salad at the dinner table
Then we served coffee in the library after din
ner. We have had finger bowls some dozen
yeare. We are beginning 70 use them even
when there is company. One family has
finger bowls at breakfast after fruit and before
bacon even when there are no guests at the
house That's dead swell. We have drunk SOUP
out Of a teacup and put grass on the fried
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12

system could be obviated by the proposed plan.
In reference TO this point he said: 1T IS dill
cult 70 see how such board could force It's
services upon litigants IN strictly civil causes as
in contested prObates. because that would be
an invasion Of private rights. and 1t IS open 20
some doubt that they could force their views
upon the court and jury IN a criminal trial where
the defendant had the desire and the pecuniaTy
ability 20 employ his own expert talent"
This objection would probably be largely over
come in practice by the fact that a jury could
hardly fail TO give greater weight 20 an opinion
expressed by neutral expert This would pc
realized by nearly every one. and although tne
services OF the board would not be forced on a
party to q suit they would be well worth having.
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12

which is composed OF three bishops q tla
Church and other prominent Methodlst nllI. %
ters and laymen. The general feld s4le'ss =
tendent Is the Rev. Theodore 5 Hen0eLsol, N n
New York, the well known evangelist .- NA0 -.
have charge Of the Young Peoples Aeeu1s,
every morning next week The annual ee.s .s
meeting Will begin on Friday, August H. w W.
the sacrament Of the Lords Supper. II; ~
derscn will preach the opening sermon tAs -
lowing day Tuesday, August Il, mas -
designated a special day of prayer Tor tns ~ ~
cess Of the Camp" Bishop Mallaheu w w
preach the closing sermon on Sunday AuslS@-'
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12
REMEDY SUGGESTED.

'I am Of the opinion that the chief remedy for
the evil consists in the appointment by the court
in a given case of one or more experts to deter
mine the mental condition of the person accused.
But the court must call approved alienists and
not gynecologists, as was done IN a celebrated
case within the memory Of all Of US. number
of medical men. including myself, tried many
years ago to interest the judges and lawyers
Of this city in an attempt to revise the entire
method of securing medical expert testimony.
Our legal friends turned deaf ear to this move
men in their desire 10 reform this entire pro-
cedure. am firmly of the opinion that experts
should not be engaged by either party to a
suit, but should give their unbiased opinion to
the court
Il doubt whether IL would be advisable to Gre
ate board OF alenists to be paid by the state.
whose services could be used by either or both
parties 10 suit or prosecution; but some rep
resentatiVe body, such as the Academy OF Medl-
cine, in this city could easily establish list
OF men whose opinions as medical experts would
be indorsed by the entire medical profession.
IF IT is the opinion that medical testimony
at the present day is too expensive, let me
merely add that the state, II it wishes to engage
the services of trustworthy experts, must be
willing TO compensate them satisfactorily FOR
services rendered The majority OF the men
whose opinions worth having are busy men
and their time is valuable. While do not
fudorse the payment of eXorbitant fees, the state
should be willing TO give full value for services
rendered
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12
OPPOSED TO A BOARD.

Dr. Allan McLane Hamilton took an opposite
and hostile view of the board of alienists plan.
He said:
Nearly all the abuse Of this kind OF testi-
mony is due TO the want of harmony between
lawyers and doctors, and in some measure 70 the
antiquated rulings Of the courts, which have
changed little in the last century. In reality,
honest experts do not contradict each other %
any great degree upon absolute scientific facts.
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12

chicken. and now we eat ice cream M,
Why not? These little evidence - ~ q.
progress are cOTnmendable.-Coum ~ y, 80
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12

not see how any improvement can be made in
present conditions although the situation is far
from satisfactory. I think professional 'ex-
scientious men. but it is opinion evidence, and
at the best a good guess. The most satisfactory
handwriting expert I know anything about Is
Just the bank teller, who has TO examine and
pass on some five thousand signatures day.
He may not know so much about the theory but
as a practical proposition his testimony IS un-
surpassed.
''There are many other types Of experts that
have to be called in occasionaly-Of callings
too varied and usefulness too infrequent to war
rant the establishment OF a system similar to
the one proposed for aienists. but you may say
that has NV unconditional Approval"
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12

would be that witnesses of fact should be pun
now are
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12

Major Dreyfus was
made a Chevalier Of the
Legion Of Honor in the
courtyard Of the Eeole
Militaire, July 21, 1906.
London Graphic.
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12

scientific questions Under the present system
a man whose name has a good ring to It may DC
called from a distant city, may make nurrleu
study of the person TO be examined, or a hurrleo
INQUIRY into the incomplete facts OF the case
then go upon the stand and if he be possessed
of gIibness of tongue his testimony will be as
valuable as that of experts who have falthfuHy
and patiently endeavored TO unravel the problem
before them It Is this hurried testimony that is
one Of the greatest evils of our present system
"And, thirdly, tho object of such cross-exam-
ination is not so much to prove that the facts
upon which judgment was founded are wrong
but that the person who has passed this Judg-
ment has improper motives for appearing IN the
case. or that he is ignorant of, or possibly mas
forgotten, some facts say. of minute anatomy
which are entirely irrelevant TO the case
"And I am sorry to say that medical men have
been engaged and have allowed themselves TO
be engaged. to sit in court for the purpose OF
coaching the counsel and to have him propose
catch questions which were to lower the Dig
nifty OF an excellent and reputable colleague
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12

tailor by this news of the revolution. What is
the common idea Of tailor? Sunk in barbarian
darkness and ignorance OF centuries the public
regards him a par with the novelist who
turns out a certain product order and for
wages. Once, like the litterateur the tailor was
a prophet and poet. He created a harmonious
and colorful frame for the human form divine;
yes. he took a bow-legged, slant-eyed excuse for
biped and, wrapping enough cloth around him
in the proper places made him thing OF
beauty. Even in our present degraded state of
art you see clubmen and magnates who. If they
We're deprived of their perfect fitting garments,
would be candidates for a crooks sOree.
What is a tailor to-day, l repeat? A pro-
verbal fraction and tradesman. He has no
chance to use his imagination nor TO realize the
legitimate graft obtained in the profession. be-
cause his work is mechanical, cUt-and-dried.
You can't charge man much for designing a
plain black suit or making a side elevation OF
a pair OF breeches; and the rake-on that OBJ
tained in olden times on peacock plumes gold
buttons. tassels and lace is modern impossi-
bility See the advantage that dressmakers have
in charging for trimmings and extras. Without
Der0uisiteS art is at q StandStiu
New-York tribune., 1906-08-12

c captain Dreyfus was
publicly degraded and
drunned out OF the
army in the courtyard
Of the Eeole Militaire,
January 5, 1895.