New-York tribune., 1906-09-02
TIE SUCCULENT SNAIL.
Il Curious Industry IN France and
Szrit-criand.

Tho snail as 4 food has been the subject of dis
cussion by well known prelate within the last
few days and a comparison was drawn between its
dietec value and that OF th- oyster 10 The detri-
inent 4 may be said al the outset OF the latter
Whether the conclusion IS backed by the result OF
analytical or chemical examination Is Of little i'm
portanco 10 us. In TACT. We shall not concern our
selves with the nutritivs qualities of the snail.
rather shall discuss curious and inter
-sns aspect Of the case-the artificial cultivation
Oi tLe creature for food purposes
dice against the Shiny little creature. In france
ana Switzerland on the other hand; though the
pounds the supply Is SO Inadequate 10 bring
forward the services Of the dul'eratOr. who has
been known TO AL In tho empty smells with pieces
OF The lungs Of cattle and horses ! hS statement
for this curious dish universally loved by epicures
We may al this juncture add that the excellence
OF the southdowu and Dartmouth mutton is as
CT bed IN some degree TO tue nu,Titve qualities of
the snails. which flourish limestone lands and
the shortness oi the grass.
From the epicurean point OF view there are, not
uInnatlraiiy perhaps. snalls and snails Those OF
burgundy have long been famed tor uhsir exqu-
district contributes but very small proportioa to
tie worlds output. the principal reason being be
pilates. The department of Jura is the cent;e Of
Provence follow next in order. The variety held
in highest esteem by connoisseurs is tue large
best. and It is very interesting to observe the
snaJ gathererS in the dew Of the early morning
pix up the Shiny creatures of the ground. which
Is liieraly covered with thom ana pIck them into
they remain without food for about q wees. They
and SSef and sSmefmes ] M salt Aa and %asr vi sfe far
about twelve hours, to be removed At Intervals
the cook. who. With he aid OF nnumeraoe other
to the heart of the Frenchman- 1t may inci,len-
tally be no!ed that escargot designates the large
denotng the other varieties which. though smaller
and without such exquisite flavor. yet are in
Some of the large farms Of Jura produce an
species are usually gathered In April! May or June
when they are consigned TO tie towns in per
reared are gathered in August 5eptenter -',ii and
October FIELDS are given over % the creatures
exclusively, who laugh and grow TAT. ~ il Were
IL may be remarked that II properly pre- rred with
are succuent enough. but. OF course. ~
the Slime from witch they cannot be dissociated
In SwItzer sand the people who ortyinated the
dish the monks and it IN siCnih amt that
snais were Tst tasted during famine times Later
ltants OF the Rhine Valley. and as ths taste grew
on them they came to consider the dish Il deli
e9ts howeveT the Industry has 2F not assumed ny
im,portanGs ia, In iha, country The fields which are
iahd usually lie al the tdee OF a wood. sheltered
from the sun The soil is well lined ard slnted.
feet high; the inside and top OF which arr washed
When II Is said that plot about two square. yards
is sufficient to accommodate thousand snails one
They are collected about the beginning of August
after they have laid their eggs. which in some
or inc larger species are as LARGE peas and
,hen placed in special field. where in wet weather.
only. for they torpid when IL is Grv thcy
fatten on nettes. bran cabbaees and field hemp.
An eNtraordinsry feature about tho snail is that
X mas thousands OF teeth These arranged
IN !S transverse rows on the tongue. and there
are as many as los In each row II follows they
nave an aggregate Of lii75. And vet another 10
cuIiarity about them Is the she'll AT the ar-
proach or winter In dry weather they
close the mouth OF this with u membrane formed
oy mo drying OF some mucous substance they
ahle 10 create. Boxed up i'm this manner. they
remain nntl more satisfactory conditions prevail
London Globe