davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-02
cFLNc>HiLL.A- WRAP AND MVFP

on it being considered quite sufficient orna-
mentation.
1t is indeed interesting to note that there
is satin in fascinating variety. Broad
shoulders and small hips are the best
adapted to the artistically picturesque
styles, for the material can be draped in
long soft folds that fall in unbroken lines.
Cloaks and wraps, for instance, that fit
only across the shoulders and have the
or embroidery invariably challenge atten-
ton, although it must be admitted that the
yoke of heavy embroidery and bands of the
same embroidery down the front are
marked and distinctive in effect. The tea
gown affords a most excellent oppor-
tunity for the long lines that show to the
best advantage in the costliest Of fabrics.
Velvet, satin, chiffon and lace require re-
vulsion of popular feeling against the over
elaboration that has been such marked
feature of the fashions lately. There are
certainly many extremely smart and eff
fectve gowns this winter that are remark
able for the beauty and perfection of their
trimmings, and the way in which elaborate
trimmings arranged adds greatly to the
beauty of the costume but at the same time
the absolutely plain models are most strik-
Ing and noticea BILE for the beauty Of the ma
terial and the lines seem to show all the
more clearly for being unbroken. The ma
terials that are now fashionable are marvel
velvets, satins and cloths all possessing
wonderful sheen that catches light and no
! trimming. for the colors show off the beau
ty Of the material. Shaded chiffons for tea
gowns and wraps are in great demand. On
account of this very love for color enects
shaded satins and velvetS are not so salts
factory, for they have such depth Of color
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-02
PONY Skin Coats.

Pony skin coats in all styles and lengths
bid fair to be more popular this winter
than was the case even when they were
first introduced some two years back. For
the morning, or for driving or automobiing,
when warmth is the first consideration,
there is no better style of wrap to be had.
and certainly this is about the cheapest
kind of fur coat on the market
The most attractive pony coats are the
brown, and needless to state, the more ex-
pensive the quality of the skin the more
attractive the coat, for the cheaper cloaks
are made from the short, dark skins, while
the better qualities have long, soft hair.
and look much like the dyed or sabled
squirrel. In fact, for fur mum and nat
for this style Of coat the sabled squire! h
extremely pretty. An Elton or blouse jacket
cannot be made from so heavy fur, ana
really pony skin Is not sufficiently hand-
some for anything but hong. generally
useful wrap. AS the exaggerated long
coats are rather out of vogue just now
this pony skin jacket need not be more than
a short three-quarter length
The majority of the rough skin coats tnis
winter are untitled, although the fitted
Jacket Is by means out OF date The
Empire model is seen in even the cheapest
style of fur coat, sometimes the yoke ana
each seam being bordered with piping
of brown leather Leather trimming, how
.er is rather uncertain, as 1t attains ana
loses its popularity so suddenly always
Striped and streaked pony coats are good
only is desired, but they are certainly not
pretty to look upon, although once In
while a streaked skin is seen that is rather
smart Young girls find these inexpensive
coats most serviceable for their week ends
out of town, for they save the handsome
fur coats and are excellent for any KIND
Of winter sports. There are now made up
many long fur coats that seem ridiculous
ly cheap; these made from all kinds
Of cheap pony skins and the majority VIII
be found to wear splendidly and for rough
wear look really smart. They are most
of them quite long and are worn over
simple gowns of cloth or serge.
Caracul is unquestionably the most popu-
lar of the medium priced furs this winter
and is seen made up in elaborately
trimmed short Jackets, as well as in the
long, loose wraps. A short fur is scarcely
practical. but it is fashionable nevertheless,
but the long wrap can be worn over any
style Of dress. from a velvet reception gown
to a short walking skirt. Instead of wear
ing a velvet jacket many women now prefer
to have a handsome velvet gown, with q
fur coat which can be left in the carriage
or slipped off before entering the reception
room. Brown caracul is most attractive,
and gray, with gown to match, makes
an exquisite costume. Black, however, Is
more generally seen, while the white cara
cul for dress, wear solely Is particularly
smart.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-02

narrow strip of linen put on smoothly with
photographers paste. You then take the
tray to a small repairing jeweler and have
him rtvet the glass covered cardboard to
the bottom with little clamps at the four
sides. These are put through small holes
in the bottom Of the tray and fastened on
the under side.
Another interesting gift for man, which,
however, is beyond the craftsmanship of any
but the specially skilled, is waste basket
Of fooled leather. These are now fashion
able for mems dens, libraries, rooms at col
!ege, etc. They are made rather small and
In an oval shape, not quite regular, but
varied with scallops, large one on each
side and smaller ones supporting these CEN
trail scallops either SIDE The basket is
covered smoothly with dark green, blue
brown or red leather, which is pasted on
with shoe paste, but this leather has almost
always been quite deliberately fooled in gilt
x X
For young men away from home. whether
at college or elsewhere there is nothing
more popular than the old-fashioned house
wife, or, as it was called during the civil
war, the "diddy bag" These are also
among the revivals and the most fashion
able shops are now showing them as some
thing very rare indeed. In reality they are
as old fashioned as possible, but nothing
more convenient for the purpose has yet
been evolved. The most attractive of these
"diddy bags" especially when meant for
men, are made of leather The leather
should be soft bronze kid, soft tan gray
dark blue very dark red kid being suit
able. If not made of kid they should be
made of quite heavy material. broadcloth,
felt or wool tapestry being suitable. Linen
and silk are not heavy and velvet seems
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-02
Charming Handmade Christmas Gifts Seen This Season.

frame this should be interlined with felt or
flannel.
A new sewing rack, very convenient for
use by the amateur needlewoman, is made
of white wood and covered with pale green
denim or linen. 1t is in the shape of
screen, meant to stand on a low table. The
screen has two wings, and inside these
are two narrow strips of wood across each
leaf of the screen. Rows OF wooden spikes
stand up from these strips of wood. These
spikes are meant for spools. The spools OF
thread, silk, darning cotton, ETC., slip down
over the spikes, and the arrangement is a
most convenient one. All OF the WOODWORK
which shows is painted white.
Below the spikes on each leaf are large
pockets of chintz or denim for holding the
work on which one is engaged at the time
These pockets may be of the same material
with which the screen is covered, or may
be Powered when the covering is plain or
plain when it is striped.
Above the spikes on one side Is strip
of material for holding scissors of various
sizes, and on the other side is a strip to
which is attached needlebook,. thimble
pocket, tape measure pocket, etc. Blue and
white chintz screens with plain blue pock-
cts are pretty Red screens have striped
red and white chiutz pockets, yellow and
white broad striped screens have plain
yellow pockets. very pretty screen may
be made of apple chintz with red apples
on a green and white ground, with green
pockets.
Sometimes the screen and pockets are all
bound with a different color ribbon or
braid. new and attractive screen can
be made in this way of yellow bound with
white or blue bound with red, etc.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-02

II HITTING has been fashionable again
n for two or three years, and now
4 = crochet work, too, is coming to the
front among the most popular Of the re-
vived handwork for woman. Among those
that at first glance seem old fashioned but
which will in fact be among the most up
to-date of handmade Christmas gifts, are
crocheted bed Jackets. They are really
very pretty made in ribbed design OF
alternating shells and plain bands. Such
jacket in white and pale blue wool had all
the shells stitched with a tracery of blue
silk, also a fashion Of fifteen or twenty
ruffle of the crocheted wool around the neck
down the front and at the bottom of the
sleeves which We're quite down to the
wrists. This ruff1e was in the plain crochet
stitch, and was finished with plain
crocheted band, the shells not being used at
all on the ruffie. The jacket is extremely
warm and may be washed.
*
A most useful and comfortable Christ
mas gift which may be made by skillful
knitter for a woman friend is the motor
scarf of Shetland wool now so popular. The
scarfs, made in thin wool and with an open
mesh, give an impression of being light and
airy, and there is nothing at all clumsy
about them Worn under the coat they may
be crushed into small space and do not
interfere with the fit of the garment up
around the shoulders. In fact, II is most
surprising that such very open, light-look-
ing scarfs should give so much warmth as
these do. They are made very wide and
long enough to hang well down past the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-02

down with all kinds of Ornamentation.
Whichever style best suits tlfe individual,
that style should she choose and not depart
therefrom, no matter how she may be
urged to do so. The woman who looks her
best in plain, simple clothes should never
be tempted by the many plumed and &c
centrically fashioned skirts and waists and
soft fluffy effects. She can follow the gen.
eral outlines of the newest fashions, but
must always stamp upon them the evil
dences of her own personality. The identi-
cal model of a gown can be changed
by trimmings and drapery that 1t cannot
be recognized except in a vague and gen.
eral way. and this is the method by which
the individual, distinctive and picturesque
note of modern fashion is emphasized.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-02

absurd to advocate any one style as adj
visable because 1t may be fashionable for
more than one season, but If a gown proves
especially becoming the most extravagant
woman likes to keep it over till the next
season rather than to attempt an entirely
different model that may not turn out well.
Consequently these satin gowns in the mod
are now to be had claim first attention in
the choice Of winter outfits, and old pictures
are consulted, well the latest fashion
plates, by the modistes who furnish for
their favored customers the very newest
styles
These same artistic and picturesque fash
ions require a great deal of material to be
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-02

ing in their own weaves that they do not
look any better when shaded than when
plain. A mauve or an ivory velvet or satin
will have sheen and depth that artists adj
mire and that in its simple elegance is most
attractive. These are the materials and
fashions that are delightfully."- picturesque
and stay in fashion much longer than the
more ordinary models An artistic satin
evening gown, for instance, such as looks
best in portrait will, If not too extreme,
be in fashion for several seasons, while the
more ordinary style made in accordance
with the prevailing fashion Of the moment
will look old fashioned the second winter.
In view Of the apparently reckless ex-
penditure in modern dress 1t seems rather
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-02

we'll carried out. The width around the foot
Of the skirt measures many yards, while
there is no possibility of economy of ma
terial II satisfactory effect is to be
gained, satisfactory in so far that the gown
be becoming, which it never can be If there
is even a hint Of economy as to the num-
Der Of yards required In truth those men
and women who stand at the head of their
profession as dressmakers and tailors have
apparently a supreme contempt for such
small detail as the quantity of material
that must be used, and cut and slash with
almost criminal recklessness the most cost
ly fabrics in order to secure the draped eff
fects that they require. 1.-THE end justifies
the means" is, however, the consensus of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-02

opinion of the women who order the most
expensive clothes and who recognize that
modern dress is but an exponent OF hlgh
art and as such commands its price. There
is, however, some satisfaction in paying
high prices for satisfactory results. Beauu-
full ma terials and becoming costumes do not
seem so wickedly eXtravagant as do the
expensive clothes which are expensive ap-
parently for the mere caprice of the mo
ment that calls for what is conspicuous and
eccentric rather than for what is lntrln-
s;cally beautiful.
For the benefit Of the great majority of
women to whom, alas! the cost of clothes
is a serious consideration, 1t must needs be
recorded that while, as has been SAID, the
most costly of costly clothes are fashlon-
able, 1t is perfectly possible in this age OF
the world for a woman of moderate dreams
to be fashionably and smartly gowned
without entering into the realms or such
luxury in dress. 1t is also quite possible to
have clothes that look distinctive and Oft
times too with a touch of the picturesque
about them, for Dame Fashion has most
kindly furnished this year an unusual num-
Der of most possible models-posslble IN so
far that they can be copied at compare
lively small cost.
Beautiful materials command high prices.
Extensive trimmings cannot be bought at
small cost unless they are hopelessly out OF
date. Rare laces have always an intrinsic
value All these things must be realized be-
fore embarking on the troubled sea of the
modern outfit but there never has been
known time in the history of dress when
effective materials and equally effective
trimmings could. be secured for so small an
outlay, while the models provided to copy
from are endless in variety.
If woman be on the order known as
picturesque it is comparatively an easy
thing for her to have a decided note of
originality in her dress, but she can also
have a note of originality In all she wears
if she elects to choose the rather severe
style and has both her street and house
gowns fashioned after models of that type
She can eschew absolutely all trimmings
and trust to the perfection of the cut and
AT of her gowns to command attention, or
she may elect to carry out the very latest
ideas and have her gowns elaborately
trimmed and fashioned and her hats loaded
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-02
Partridge Pie.

Take the required number of birds, pound
their livers in a mortar together with
fourth of a pound of fat salt pork and some
shredded parsley or thyme. Line the sides
of a baking dish with a rich pastry crust,
place a part of the forcemeat in the bot
tom of the receptacle, lay in the partridges,
add the remainder of the forcemeat, several
mcdium-sized mushrooms, and over these
place thin slices of bacon. Previously cook
ing the necks, hearts and gizzards, add the
strained stock; cover with top crust and
bake from two to three hours, according to
the age of the birds Before serving remove
the bacon.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-02

scarcely suitable for a man or boy strip
of this heavy material about one-half
yard long and five inches wide is first lined
with silk, challais some other suitable
material and bound all around either with
narrow leather binding one of silk,
for buttons a needle book of flannel, a
pocket for black and white thread and for
darning thread and a tape to hold scissors,
are then sewed inside next to the silk. One
end of the bag is straight and the other is
pointed. Ribbons are attached to the
pointed end, and the bag, after all Its COM
partments are filled, is rolled up with the
pointed end out. The ribbons are tied
around the bag. 1t is small enough to
carry in the pocket; it is very complete and
masculine looking, and every college boy
who hasn't one is sure to be pleased with
such gift.
*
Bead photograph frames are really charm
ing bits of handiwork which will make
pleasant gifts for either men or women.
These are more easily done on canvas than
on bead loom. They are in all the charm
ing bead designs and in many shapes,
square, rectangular, circular and shapes
that are fanciful and elaborate. Forget-me-
Eots in blue beads on a crystal ground make
friend which almost any man would appre-
cjate. RoSebudS on dark red ground,
golden love knots on pink opaque bead
grosInd, etc., are all most charming frames.
The frames must be first cut in large
squares or rectangles of canvas and then
stamped with the outline of the frame
shape desired. After the bead work is all
done the inner portion of the canvas is cut
out and folded under to make the shape.
Before mounting the beadwork on the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-02

frame this should be interlined with felt G
flannel.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-02

s; s: {: i: !: &: &:
hat ,.hn oil ed
Courier Democrat. (Langdon, N.D.) 1891-1920, 1906-05-24
Open Tenders Wanted.

Open tenders will be received by the
town board of Perry township for grad
ing, on Friday June LIST, 1906, work to
be let in the following order: Commence
ing at eight o'clock a. M, on the section
line between Sections l and 2, Town 100,
Range 60, then on the section line be-
tween Sections 2 and II, then on the
section line between Sections 10 and IL,
then on the section line between Sec
lions 26 and 81 and Sections "a and 30.
In the afternoon commencing at one
o'clock p. M, on the section line between
Sections % and 30, and sections 80 and
333, then on the section line between
sections l6 and II, then on the section
line between Sections IS and 10, then on
the section line between Sections I and
Is and between Sections S and II, then
on the section line between Sections 8
and 10, and between Sections 3 and 4
Also on Monday June 4th, 1906, COM
mencipg at eight o'clock a. H., on the
section line between Sections II and II,
Town 100, Range 81, then between sec
tions 10 and 3, then on the section line
between Sections 8 and 9, then on the
81.
In the afternoon commencing at one
o'clock p. M, on the section line between
Sections % and 80, then on the section
line between Sections 30 and 33, then on
the section line between Sections 81 and
3, then on the section line between
Section 36, Town 100, Range 81, and
Section 81, Town 100, Range GO, then on
the section line between Sections 80 and
36, then on the section line between
Sections % and 26, then on the section
line between Sections Is and IA. The
board reserves the right to reject any OF
all bids.
By order of the town board of Perry
township.
J. HE>pY. Town Clerk
Courier Democrat. (Langdon, N.D.) 1891-1920, 1906-05-24
PROPOSALS Wanted.

Sealed proposals will be received by
the Board of County Commissioners of
Cavalier county North Dakota, until two
o'clock p. m. Tuesday, May 10Th. 1906,
for furnishing record books and general
election supplies for the ensuing year, a
satisfactory bond III the sum of $4,000
given in favor of the Chairman OF the
Board of County Commissioners must
accompany each bid as a guarantee that
the party bidding will enter into a con.
tract with the county for the amount
stated in the bid and for the proper full
tillment of the contract should the bid
be accepted, Specifications of the
supplies required IAN be seen at the au-
ditor's Office or will be mailed upon APP
plication. The board reserves the right
to reject any or all bids, Address tenders
to the undersigned marked "~proposa!s
for furnishing county supplies.
BY order of the board of county com
m~issioners.
Dated at Langdon this 9TH day of
May, 1906
4l-43 Ron'r WoKk, County Auditor.
Courier Democrat. (Langdon, N.D.) 1891-1920, 1906-05-24
RELIGIOUS BELIEFS.

Father Krose, S. j "a famous Stats
tician who has been engaged for many
years in compiling figures on the sub
ject of the number of human beings
who profess different forms of belief,
estimates the total number of christians
in the world at 549,Ol7,34l.
or this number, Europe contains 373,
975,95l: America North, South and
CentraD, l33, 9O7, S46: Asia, 23,G36,493
Africa, s,329,Sl9: Australia and Ocean
lea, l,l67,2O2.
The non christian religions show POP,
UlS,2Ol Mohammedans; Brahmins, or
Uindoos, 2lO,lOO.OOO: Confucians and
ancestor worsnippers, 2%53,OOO,OOO: b
ancestor worshipperS, 253,WO,O0O: Bud
lhists, l2O,25O,OO: rnoiS,S, 81, WDO.OOO,
ancient religions Of India, l2,ll3
Shintoists, l7.00O,0W; Fetish worship.
prrS and other pngans, 100000;
Jews, II ,U37,WD; aud other religions,
.,Sii,is2.
Courier Democrat. (Langdon, N.D.) 1891-1920, 1906-05-24
WORTH REMEMBERING.

There are three entirely different va
rieties of baking powders On the market,
viz:-l) Mineral-Acld or Alum, (2) Bone
Acid or Phosphate, and (3) Cream of
Tartar made from grapes. 1t is impor-
tant, from the standpoint of health, to
know something about these lngredl-
ents, and which kind is used in your
baking powder.
l) Mineral-Acid, or Alum, is made
from a kind of clay. This is mixed with
diluted oil of vitriol and from this solu-
ton a product is obtained which is
alum Alum is cheap; costs about two
cents a pound, and baking powder made
with this Mineral-A Acid sells from 10 to
2oc a pound.
CIV Bone-Acid, or Phosphate, is the
basis of phosphate baking powders and
the process is fully described in the
patents issued to a large manufacturer
of a phosphate powder. The U. S. pat
ent office reports gives a full and exac
description, but the following extract is
enough:
s.Burned bones, after being ground
are put into freshly diluted oil of vitriol
and with continual stirring and in the
following proportion" etc.
From this bone-acid phosphate baking
powders are made: such powders sell
from 20 to 80 cents a pound
() Cream of Tartar exists in all ripe
grapes, and flows with the juice from
the press in the manufacture of wine
After the wine is drawn off the tartar
is scraped from the cask, boiled with
water, and crystals Of Cream of Tartar
white and very pure, separate and are
collected. 1t differs in no respect from
the form in which it originally existed
in the grape. Cream of Tartar, then
while the most expensive, is the only
ingredient that should be used in {
baking powder to act upon the soda, as
it's wholesomeness is beyond question
Cream of Tartar baking powders sell a
about 40 to so cents a pound.
Such are the facts, and every one
careful of the health of the family
should remember this rule:-Bakine
powders selling from 10 to % cents {
pound are made of mineral acids: thos'
selling from 20 to 30 centsof bone acid
and those from 40 to so cents of crean
of tartar made from grapes.
Courier Democrat. (Langdon, N.D.) 1891-1920, 1906-05-24
Not if as Rich as Rockefeller

If you had all the wealth o@f,,Rockefeller
the Standard Oil magnate, you could not
buy a better medicine for bowel COM
plants than Chamberlain's collie, cholera
and dlarrhoea remedy. The most emin-
ent physician can not prescribe a better
preparation for collie, and diarrhoea, both
for children and adults The uniform
success of this remedy has shox n it to
be superior to all others. 1t never fails.
and when reduced with water and sweet
ened. is pleasant to take. Every family
should be supplied with it. Sold by n.
f.. McGruer Langdon and Easily.