davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14

gowns black with trimmings of the bright
velvet. with ostrich tips or small wings of
the same color. Most becoming ana euec-
tive was a costume in which the skirt hung
full and gracefully about the feet. Thel
train was quite long, while just aroundj
the hem of the skirt three inches from the5
ground, was a band of reble fur, the only
bit of fur ON the costume. The waist was
made with a small. round transparent lace
yoke below which fell almost to the waist
line a deep lace bertha. The transparent
lace sleeves were large, and shirred down.
the center bneath narrow strips OF the
cloth Valenciennes lace, with a bit OF
Irish applique, was used for the bodice
With this costume were worn a little SABLE
bolero and a hat of ecru velvet trimmed
with sable tails.
There are many fashionable shades at
the moment, but none are in any way SO
pretty or so popular as the different tones
of pink and old rose. In the latter there
is one particularly attractive shade which
1t seems impossible to find save in cloths.
although very nearly the same color has
been obtained in both chiffon and chiffon
cloth. It Is a very pink old rose, far re-
moved from salmon, lobster, strawberry,
or any other such shade, and also ii Is a
color which seems quite appropriate for
street wear-that is, of course, when worn
occasionally not Unfortunately. The
girls and women who were distressed this
autumn to learn that blues only were to-
be fashionable discovered all at once that
pink, which alone suited their coloring,
was becoming exceedingly smart. To those
who can wear pink. brown is sure to be be-
coming, and there are no smarter costumes
this season than the rose pink gowns worm
with brown caracul jackets. The hat for
such a costume should be of pink velvet,
trimmed with deep brown plumes. or else
of the caracul, this color being introduced
in the full rose colored feather.
Embroidered cloths are really beautiful
this year. The colored silk embroidery
work is perhaps more fashionable than the
gold and silver. although this last is also
seen to no little extent. particularly on the
waists.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14
DARK VIOLET GOWN TRIMMED WITH TNNADMQ4l4EI
BRAID

gored and pleated skirts-it seems almost
absurd to again enumerate these three mod
els, which still, however, continue to be
popular. There are changes in width of
pleats. in the number of cores, in the shape
of the circular skirt and in the style of
trimming, but the so to speak integral
parts are just the same season after sea-
son. Braid of different widths, bias folds
of the material velvet or velvet ribbon are
all in fashion, but the velvet by rights be-
longs to the more elaborate skirt intended
for afternoon wear.
The palmer the short skirt the smarter it
IS thought to be. Rows of machine stitch
ing are always a good finish in the plaids,
checks or mixed cheviots, but there are
conservative minded women who like the
idea of always having handwork and who
even in these essentially rough and ready
gowns do not care to have machine stitch
ing, instead demanding plain effects, and
insisting upon perfection of finish in pref
erence to the elaborate machine decora tion
Plaids and checks are immensely fash
ionable, and not only in the good old green
and blue Scotch plaid, in varied size but
in green and brown. brown and blue, black
and gray and red and black, and so on
through a never ending list of colorings in
unheard of combinations. Coat and skirt
to match or else a fur jacket is the rule
with this style of gown, and the plain, Sc
we're style of coat is required Medium
length coats and the newest in the new
sack coats, while apparently hiding all good
lines, in reality indicate them most becom-
lngIy Inc sleeves are of medium size,
guiltless of any trimming, and in truth
everything about the costume is severely
plain. The very latest models show tight
fitting, medium-length coats on the riding
habit order, in cheviot tweed and serge
This style is becoming to women who have
good figures, but. like the princess model
is best calculated to show any and every
defect that exists. The long-fitted or half
fitted coat is not quite so smart as it was
the real trouble being that it has been
ther too popular.
Short jackets are snartest with the more
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14

are the newest skirt models carefully cut
and fitted, with wide sweep around the
foot, with bands of braid or bias folds of
velvet of the same material as the gown,
with ruchingS- or pipings of contrasting
color in satin or velvet.
There are four shaped pleats introduced
at regular intervals that make the skirt
seem even richer, as the attached flounce
fashion is introduced under apparently
new style. Flounces with rows of tucks
medium width. or with lines of velvet or
braid, are effective and becoming, while if
the idea of the costume is to introduce more
than one shade of the same color it is ac-
complished most cleverly in the facings
Innings and trimmings.
Embroidered velvet bands are most eff
fective, and the colorings are charming
They can be and are of the same Tone but
in darker or lighter shade than the ma
terfal while contrasting colors are worked
out in the embroidery. The facings and
trimmings on the coats show most ex-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14

quisite workmanship and coloring, and add
greatly to the beauty and finished effect of
the costume. Velvet reception and after
noon gowns are immensely popular, but it
would be extremely difficult to say which is
the more popular, the velvets or the light
cloths. A costume of pink or blue cloth can
be made this season to be every bit as
elaborate in appearance and effect as a
velvet. and the debutantes seem to think
the cloth is far smarter. 1t is more youth
full looking, certainly, and newer. Velvet
costumes have always been in fashion,
while it is certainly a decidedly new idea
deliberately fashioned ones in the daytime
and on the street.
The dark velvet costumes, and the black
ones especially, were never handsomer than
this season. The princess styles in both
the gowns and long coats show to so good
an advantage the beauty of color and ma
terial. not to mention a good figure, that
they are bound to remain in favor for a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14

PRETTY ACCESSORIES.
How to Dress the Meek Gracefully

How to Dress the Neck Gracefully.
There is an infinite charm about a we'll
shaped neck, and she is a wise woman who
learns how to dress her throat not only be-
comingly, but gracefully as well. The
beauty and contour of face can be
changed almost entirely by the outline of
the neck, and when graceless necks fail to
yield to massage and vigorous exercise,
Miladi, who aspires to be beautiful has
ribbons and ornaments as a final saving
grace.
And saving grace they are, too, for
they can be made to give quite as telling
an effect as a single line in an otherwise
incomplete drawing. Fat necks can be made
to look thin and short necks long, with a
chic little bow pinned here or fancy chain
hung there. AS an instance of this, no one
who has ever seen a picture of ConsueIo
Vanderbilt, now Duchess of Marlborough,
has failed to note the band of soft black
tulle which she invariably wears about her
throat Delicate and unusual is the
fashion. it is not without its use as well.
Unadorned by this black tulle, the neck is
long and thin. With it her slender white
throat is nothing If not patrician in curve.
On short neck tulle bows and bands
have to be applied with very careful hand.
Just they serve to shorten long neck,
so they can reduce short, chubby neck al
most to nothingness. Choux of tulle at the
back or side of the neck only for slen-
der Threats, while, on the other hand the
bow of maline fastened directly in front is
becoming only to woman with short neck, !
though she must wear it well down on the
collar bone.
Thin collars boned very high either at
the back or front give decidedly choked t
look to a fat neck. A lace band of very
medium height, with scant ValencienneS
frj1l, alone becomes the chubby throat.
Necklaces or chairs worn with these low
bands should e2circ,e them midway and
have a pendent attachment to give a long
effect in front, or they should fall well be-
low the collar bone. A slender throat looks
best with ornament or chain at the top
of the collar.
Things to Remember.
The woman who wears a Iow-cut bodice
has to be even more particular about the
way In which she adorns her neck The
artist says that the line from the TOD Of
the bodice to the chin should be the same
length as from the chin to the beginning
of the couture. In case this makes the
waist lower than Is desirable. narrow cir
cuiar fuckers of the very softest tulle or
chiffon should be used to I'LL in. But by
no means allow the material of the gown
| to cut Off the essential expanse of neck.
When neck Is pretty, but short and
chubby, long. dark jeweled chain or band
of narrow black velvet ribbon encircles the
back of the throat and hangs down straight
on either side in stole effect. Wide dog COLI
lars are only for long slender threats, and
the short-necked woman who affects them
| Is apt to look as though her heAd rested
directly on bar shoulders
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14

people are in town, and because
when the weather permits of outdoor ex-
ercise walking and driving are two of the
regular events of the day.
Women are paying more and more atten-
ton to their street costumes, realizing the
Importance of looking we'll gowned out of
doors and in consequence tailors and dress
makers are always busy furnishing new de-
signs and bringing out new materials. Wo-
men formerly thought that the tailors and
dress makers could not make the same sort
of dresses-that tailors clothes were too
stir and set in their lines, too conventional
and severe, as it We're, and they were disin-
clined to permit the tailor to experiment
with anything but materials like cloth and
cheyiot and these in rather the palmer de-
signs while to dreSSmakerS were relegated
the most fancfful styles and such fabrlcs as
silk, lace, satin, etc. Now dreSSmakers
have undertaken and succeeded with all the
materials the tailors usually claimed, and
vice versa, so that it is possible to order
every description of costume at any of the
large establishments, one reason being that
at the largest establishments both expert
dressmakers and tailors are employed.
A smart cloth gown means an immense
amount of comfort, and a woman never
looks better than, when appropriately
gowned in some neat, inconspicuous pat
termed business-hke street costume, she can
sally forth for her morning constitutional.
marketing now being left to the house
keeper or cook. The short skirt is con-
stantly being reviled as ngraceful and un-
becoming and all dressmakers are appar
emily in league against it. but the fashion
has gained such a secure foothold that it
is not probable 1t can be driven Out-that
is, for ordinary everyday wear. Circular,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14

which are siashed up the center over a
band OF lace and the material then tied
over the lace in three or four small bow
xn,ots. The sleeve is then finished with a
double row of narrow lace edging at the
elbow or an inch or so higher. Then there
are the decoilete gowns, the neck filed in
with a guimpe of chiffon of fine lace. and
the sleeves, also of lace. are half hidden by
bands OF the velvet and silk, which are
brought across the sleeve and finished in
a soft loop or hosette. This guimpe effect
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14

when sleeves played such an i'm
portant part in woman's dress as
4 today. 1t is claimed by those
whose opinion in clothes is con-
sidered the most reliable that ii
is possible to tell at a glance whether
gown be of this years vintage so TO
speak. or last seasons simply by glance
al the sleeves. Whether or not this sweep
ing statement be true, there is certainly a
marvellous difference in the fashions of this
seasons sleeves.
Absolutely absurd as is a style that COM
mands the sleeve shall not reach below the
elbow, fashion has sanctioned the absurd
ity. and even fur jackets have yielded to
the craze, and long sleeves are quite in the
minority. Fortunately there are no end of
different designs to choose from, so that
there is a great variety to be noticed.
Ball gowns are made with the shortest
of sleeves. Often only a strap is to be
seen; again there will be most minute
pun made of narrow rufies of lace
foundation of chiffon or mousseline de sole.
Reception, dinner and theater gowns have
the most fauciful little sleeves imagin-
able, never reaching further than just be-
low the elbow and often not to the elbow,
The material of the gown generally serves
the framework upon which to place
ruffles bands of lace, bias folds of vel
vet lace applique or embroidery, until the
wonder is there can be so much and so
many materials on so little space.
One thing in favor of the newest designs
is that they follow more the shape of the
arm than they did and are consequently
more becoming there is some fullness at
the armhole and the sleeve is pat in in
such fashion as TO give breadth to the
shoulders rather than the slipping shoulder
effect fashionable last year. AS a rule
there is a rather small lining that forms
a sort of foundation and keeps the sleeve
itself in shape, the material of the sleeve
being then tucked. sEirred, gathered or
simply laid over the silk in little puffs and
sleeve at all - that is, unless there is
simply strap over the shoulder-it must
be elaborate. If the gown is embroidered
in gold or silver there must be the same
design on the sleeve, even though the ma
terial is different. In many satin gowns
the sleeves are composed of chiffon or
lace, with bands of the satin TO help keep
the sleeve from falling in too close TO the
ns-a
AS said above, the sleeve for ball gown
is exceedingly small, and now the reception
dresses are made with sleeves which do not
reach even TO the elbow; very smart,
though, are the sleeves today on all CLOTH
and velvet bodices. All are most fr'. at
the shoulder, becoming gradually narrow
until finished off either at ..ae elbow or
aust above by tiny lace Jun, narrow lace
ruching or a tight cuff Of lace or en-
| broidery, shaped Ike the leg o mutton
sleeve only elrJw length are many of the
models In Srch. and these are the sleeves
that have the little lace puff at the elbow.
ueik or side plated chiffon the sleeves of
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14

unlike the angel sleeve of two years ago,
although the greater width of material Is
now at the shoulder and not near the
elbow. The guimpe Is not seen so much
in afternoon gowns as formerly for al
though there Is in most frocks a small
Transparent lace yoke. stiIl the sleeve
should be the shade of the material of
the gown ITSELF Silk trimmed with cloth
straps and velvet sleeves finished with
bands of satin or silk give an idea OF the
many styles Of sleeve now in vogue.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14

is a favorite way of softenng the lines and
color of a satin or velvet evening gown.
In house dresse Z and tea gowns alone are
the sleeves really graceful, for only with
loose flowing lines can this effect be OBJ
tanned. A favorite sleeve for a tea gown
of any material is of chiffon the same
shade. made transparent and simply shirred
1t falls very full over the tight bands of
silver or embroidered satin which Is about
an inch above the elbow. This style Is not
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14

A coat sleeve does no
from the sleeve of the
many sleeves seen In oh
also to be noticed, but s
clc'th and velvet. The
sleeve IS. however. essent
This sleeve may be eiabe
indeed. the ajority of
trimmed this winter: OF
quite plain, save for the
which Is generally eithS
broidered IN light colored
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14

longer time than so marked a fashion is
apt to do and made either in velvet or
cloth are especially smart and attractive.
At first glance it is rather difficult to tell
whether it is a coat or gown that is so ef-
fective, for both are fitted close to the hg-
ure, are in one piece and are trimmed pre-
cisely the same. The corselet shirt and
the deliberately trimmed bolero jacket worn
with it have had an extraordinarily long
life In popular favor and seem destined to
be popular for some time to come. The
fashion at first was not generally liked, and
is one of the few models that have been I'M
proved by age. AS 1t now STANDS 1t is GER
tainly charming, for the lines of the Jacket
are more in accord with those of the skirt
The jacket shows off the figure better, al
though at the same time it is not too close
fitting. The fronts hang loose, and below
the waist line, while the back may be ex-
aggeratedly5 short and yet not look incon-
gruous because it is apparently SO de-
signed.
change of the fashionable figure. never bet
ter exemplified than in the street costumes
OF this midwinter season. Only last year
the large waist, the long-pointed and blouse
effects, were the great favoriteS, and in
truth all other designs seemed out of style
Now the smaller the waist, the more tight
fitting the effect of coat or waist, the
smarter the costume is thought, and the
end and aim of every woman, be she de-
butante or grandmother. is to look youthful
especially as regards her figure. And there
is marvelously little difference in the clothes
ordered for matron OF maid Light colors
and the most elaborate of materials and
models are chosen for women with gray
hair quite as often as by young girls. For
tunately, the general effect is good and not
so ludicrous as it sounds in the description
thereof.
Black cloth costumes relieved with trim
mingS of bright velvet, outlined with black
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14


differ materially
gown itself. and
non and lace are.
lightly changed in
full three-qnarter
ally a coat model.
rately braided, az,
coat sleeves are
again II Is seen
turned back cuH,
+ braided or em-
silk. Lace Is worn
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14

Black cloth costumes relieved with trim
mings of bright velvet, outlined with black
braid, are among the newest mdwinter de-
signs, and the hats are made to match the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14

4 ~ OST important a. all times is .he'
q "a street costume, but especially so
w a in nidwinter, because the social
v Il season is al its height and more
people are in town, and because
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14

WHERE never was known a time
when sleeves played such an i'm
portant part in woman's dress as
today. 1t is claimed by those
whose opinion in clothes is con-
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1906-03-31
PASSENGERS ARRIVED.

Per S, s. America Maru, from Yoto-
hama, March 30.--For Honolulu. S.
tiori and servant, Mrs. II. Murakami,
Y. Tssaka. Through: w. Abe, Geo S.
Andres, Surg. Bergher, |. r. ~. W.
]. Briggs, DR.. ]. p. De Bruler, U. s. N,
+. Coduri, Edwin Grunow, Rev. w. p.
Cooley, II. Itahara. G. Kasimirovich.
NJ. Kawabe. T, Kosugl, A. S. Lambert,
Surg. Lehmkul, /. II. NJ, Chan Ki
Leung, Miss II, Limby, T. G. LongstaiI,
Carlo Michel, +. Nakano, A. 7. Nes-
melon, b. II. Paddock, A. Preston, Al
fred Pazolt c. Smith. w. A. Smith, T.
Suzuki, Capt w. Z. b. Thorsen.
From Kona and Kau ports, per stmr.
Mauna Loa, March 30.-Col. S. Norris.
Chas. Dement,, Mrs. w. @. ogg, Mrs
J. ID. Paris. Albert Hu. Mike johnson
II. l.. Kawewehi, Mrs, Kawewehl, ]
X. Nahale. w. NJ. Campbell, G, ID
Rugg, Rev. ID. Scudder. J. II. Paris, J.
Coerper, T. C. White. w. Wolters. K
Eguchi. ID. C. Lindsay. Mrs. Santos, l..
Barkhausen, J, A. Bortfeld, James Ogg.
w Gibbs, Mrs. s. Decoto and SO deck
passengers.
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1906-03-31
]. S. DEPARTMENT
Of AGRICULTURE

The following data, covering q pc.
riod of Twenty-Five years. have been
compiled from the Weather Bureau
and McKibbin records at Honolulu 7.
II. They are issued to show the condi.
lions that have prevailed, during the
month In question. for the above period
Of years. but must not be construed as
forecast of the weather conditions
for the coming month.
Month-Aprll, for 30 years.
Temperature uS90.19O5)-M or
normal temperature, 73 deg. The
warmest month was that of 1893, with
an average of 75. The coolest month
was that of 1898, with an average Ut
II. The highest temperature was SO.
on April %, 1892. The lowest temper.
ature was SO, on April 81, 1899.
Precipitation (rain. 1s77.1s9i and
1905)-Average for the month. 2.53
Inches. Average number OF days with
.0l of an inch or more, IL. The great
est monthly precipitation was 7.95
inches In 1890. The least monthly pre-.
cipitation was 0.75 inch in 1888. The
greatest amount OF precipitation re.
corded in any "a consecutive hours
was $3.50 inches. on April 30, 1885.
Relative Humldlty-Average a.
m, $50; a. M, 6S9o; 8 y. m, Fec;
s p. m, 500.
Clouds and Weather (iS90.1905) -
Average number OF clear days, IL;
partly cloudy days, IA; cloudy days, 5.
Wind-The prevailing winds have
been from the northeast. The average
hourly velocity OF the wind during
April, 1905, was 100 miles. The high
est velocity of the wind during April,
1905, was SO miles. from the northeast.
on the Sd.
Station: Honolulu, T. H.; date OF ID.
| sue: March 80, 1906
ALEX. McC. ASHLEY,
Section Director, Weather Bureau.
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1906-03-31
MlNDAMUS TO TEST
EXPENSE QUESTION

A test case Is being prepared to do
eide the question who shall pay the ex.
penses OF witnesses In criminal cases.
Chief Clerk auckland. who went 10
Kauai as witness In the Kanealii cas-
sent his bill for SIS expenses, which
was rejected by the Auditor. Attorney
General Peters refused to pay 1t as his
department was shorn OF the appropri.
alton for witness expenses by the last
Legislature, the idea being that the
counties should look after these mat
tiers.
1t has been arranged to test the mat
ter by a mandamus proceeding against
the Attorney General on an agreed stats
of facts. to compel him to pay tho
money. J. w. Cathcart has been re
tanned to represent auckland.
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1906-03-31
PASSION SUNDAY.

The Catholic Church of ST. John the
Baptist, Kalihlwaena, in charge OF Rev.
Father Clement. Tomorrow. April list.
Passion Sunday. $3.50 a. M. high mass
sermon, collection. Sunday school. 4
p. m. Rosary.
The Catholic Church of our Lady oil
the Mount, Kaiulani (Kalihi-uka). In
charge OF Rev. Father Clement, To-
morrow. April LIST, Passion Sunday. II
a. m, mass. sermon. collection, sta
tions of the Cross.
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1906-03-31
CENTRAL UNION CHURCH.

The pastor, Rev. VIM. NJ. Kincaid.
ID. d., will preach in the morning on
"The Personal Conviction OF God" The
communion Of the Lords Supper will
be observed In connection with the
morning service. In the evening, the
Rev. Samuel b. Forbes will preach on
christian Manliness."
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1906-03-31

A new steel for tools is being placed
on the market; II can be hardened by
simply heating to a high temperature
and allowing It to cool in the air, Tools
made out of this steel do not become
soft through growing hot while being
worked.
Evening bulletin. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu, Hawaii]) 1895-1912, 1906-03-31

Last night at the Moana hotel
beautiful dinner was given by Mr.. John
II. Bliss In honor OF Mr.. and Mrs. r. n.
Patton. who sail on the 18th OF next
month for the Coast. A charming az
rangement OF pink carnations, softly
shaded candles In pink and ferns, dec
GRATED the round table. Miss Mamie
Winston acted as hostess and among
the other guests were Prince and Prin-
cess KaWananakoa. DR.. and Mrs.
IT, II. Humphris. Mr.. and Mrs.
lC. W. c. Deering, Miss >Jes-
sic Foreman, Ex-Governor Cleghorn
and Lieut. Carter. After dinner the
guests played bridge N