Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-23
Coats and Coates.

Very lightweight tweeds in grouse brown
and cygnet color are being offered for voile
Ii late spring material rather than an
early autumn one. and all the out door
crepe de chine and gauze toilets that are re-
quired are already made and in wear.
The directoire influence is evident upon
several Of the tailor-made gowns, while
that of the second empire reveals itself
upon the toilets of ceremony for the con-
tinental spas. In the high-strapped effects
OF the drectoire day and the gracefully
draped skirt the men of scissors find an
opportunity worthy of their skill, which
they are exercising to the full with due
discretion. But the strictly correct empire
mode, suitable for flimsy fabrics. Is
princess, though there moment when
every sign pointed to the dismissal of the
latter
1t is noticeable that a large measure of
establishment is being bestowed upon the
coatee and that considerable degree of
eccentricity marks the shape of that pi-
quaint little garment, particularly below the
waist line. which is placed very high. What
quantity charming basques, pleats and loose
fiounces figure on such models the future
will disclose, and perhaps it may be the
near future, too, though with the thermom-
eter 1t stands now, even to think about
cloth coats is wearisome to the flesh.
The favorite form Of trimming for new
jackets is braid made of silk, in coarse or
fine plaitings. and another decoration that
is admired is broderie Anglaise actually
executed on velvet as well as silk. half
fitting long coat Is great novelty. one
design is made of shot-blue and green tai
fetas with a broad band of hussar-blue
silk at the hem to match the gown. which
may be made either of toile OF cashmere,
the former in pursuance of fashions latest
within. The empiecements of velvet are
a feature and lend some sobriety to the
scheme and then there is a band of light
embroidery to enhance the daintiness OF the
whole. Note, too. the hgh-waisted satin
waistcoat which il so picturesque. The DO.
lero will naturally take secondary place
In our affections with these novelties to
fascinate our tickle taste. but the modistes
are in no way alarmed as to Its ultimate
future. for 1T is far too useful vogue to
merit Punishment. Smart. indeed, Is one
Of the latest editions, pale-brown tafeta
dress with waved bands of fine fiscelle SOU
tache upon the bolero. above binding OF
stitched taffetas, fscelle lace lapels both
back and front and braces of softest mauye
velvet held down by big steel bosses. This,
with a picturesque hat OF brown straw
decorated with purple grapes ana RIBBONS
that match, supplemented by a noaIlng
brown VEIL makes a very becoming robe
Millinery diminishes in size. Some of 1t
is worn perched high above the couture.
which is again being dressed with great
elevation in front and at the sides, but
other models require a less trying environ
ment The Louis XVI shape, with It's polite
crown and turned-down brim, Is a DECIDED
C0anRe, anu TOuuo II own oiN
tie brim comes as a welcome relief after
the wild vagaries OF some or the summer
hats 1t is a model made of oxidized sill
yer braid with q trimming Of tea roses
with crimson splashes on the petals and at
the back a handsome crimson plume.
Tawny brown, of the new walif1ower
shade is a fayorite and seasonable milli-
merry dive now; and hat of the Dick Whit
tington shape. with a bunch Of rowan
berries and two tall pheasant feathers, is
an autumnal novelty in a famous establish
ment Fruit, made Of velvet, adorns many
hats; small burnt brown and glowing red
aprfcots are particularly well approved
Long are the skirts that accompany the
latest coats, and of a very graceful mlen.
and with them may be worn quaint old
chatelaines in pinchbeck and enamel ana
picturesque headgear with the bunch or
feathers at the back known as tetes de
plume, sometimes Of three violently. though
tremendously, contrasting colors, such as
sulphur, deep pink and palest green.
The high-waisted coatee VIII ma lts
chance in stripes and plaids OF very soft,
Indefinite shades, and the polonaise is yet
another vogue.
These are some of the ideas that are
claiming the attention of the modistes now,
and that will prove a pleasant addition TO
the choice we are given of toilets for the
autumn. 1t will really make rather pleas
ant diversion to wear petticoat of chest
nut brown velvet and polonafse overskirt
of paler brown cloth, 1t may be that
the tables will be turned, and that over q
cloth skirt trimmed with folded bands of
velvet we shall wear tablier and corsage
of velvet to match the bands upon the
skirt Already have seen this old and al
ways pretty conceit in the salons of one
of the leading costumers Of the day.