davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1906-01-18
Rev. Victor Day Returns.

New York. Jan. 1.-THE Very Rev.
Victor Day, vicar general Of the do
cese Of Helena. Mont. was passen-
gar on the steamer KFo0nland, which
arrived today from Antwerp.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1906-01-18
Kaiser Wilhelm Arrives.

New York, January 11.-Arrived:
Steamer Kaiser Wilhelm II, from Bre-
men; the Kroonland from Antwerp.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1906-01-18
TOO
GOOD 4 GAME
To LOSE
F:stsrH Colleges Would Not Think
Of kbOIiShiHg this POpu-
lar Sport.
CHANGES in Rules VIII Not Do
Away With Brutality.

g TIE OPINION OF PROF. SMALL,
or CHICAGO UNIVERsITY-IT is
T4E MEN BEHIND THE GAME,
OFFICIALS AND UNIVERSITY
SPIRIT THAT COUNT.
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1906-01-18

.HE WEATHER: Showers
I Thursday; Friday fair, slightly
ro,fer: fresh southwest shifting
10 northwest winds.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-12
Rompers and Play Clothes.

The small boy and girl of today have the
advantage over the children of long ago in
one thing at least, whatever may be said
of the good old days. Rompers, that great
boon of childhood, have come into being in
our own immediate generation. Their use
among the children of sensible mothers Is
constantly growing. There are rompers
made to go over clothes and those made to
wear as suits, in some instances of some
what differing construction. The trousers
having high bibs and suspenders over the
shoulders are, of course. meant for use
over other clothes, while the completed
suits are to be worn as the only necessary
outer garment. These latter may also,
however, be used as overalls, while many
children are now dressed in the suspeuder
trousers with little guimpe waists or under
blouses as summer morning costumes.
The rompers are usually made of blue
chambray or linen, but they are also seen
in small checked percales and ginghams,
brown, pink and linen. Some of them are
trimmed with braid or bands of a contrast
ing shade Of linen or Bingham at the neck
and belt. The principal thing is, however.
to have a quantity of them so that there
may be fresh ones every morning.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-12

arrival at any conclusion between the dec
orator and the patron as to suitable
color scheme for the decoration Of a room
or house has been a difficult matter II
was to be done only by the use of samples.
so that it was necessary for the decorator
to keep himself supplied with an endless
number of cuttings for this purpose. These
materials being very expensive, the line
of necessary samples has been matter
of some consideration. This can be ar
rived at In the future by the use of the
machine, with much more facility than
heretofore.
The device consists of a circular frame.
mounted on q suitable base, and fitted
with five smaller circles, one within the
other The latter are each marked out
with different colors and their shades and
tints and each fitted with projecting
army, by which the disk may be made to
revolve in either direction. The various
colors may thus be brought into any re-
lationship with each other.
In order that accurate records may De
made of the different combinations which
It may be desired to make use OF, num-
bered divisions are provided around the
outer circle and each arm Is lettered TO
isolate any series Of colors chosen, cover
is provided, which has slot. When the
cover is over the apparatus. only one Sc
ries Is shown at time. The machine
shows 40 colors, which covers the range
generally made use Of by upholsterers ana
decorators.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-12

young girl say ITO be kissed by man with
out moustache is like eating an egg with
out salt" rather think, so far as my expe-
rience has gone that I am in agreement
with this opinion. After all, you see, one
does not expect mans kiss to be just like
a woman's. Army men, I opine, owe some
of the popularity they enjoy among my sex
to. the moustaches they wear. Who would
net rather be taken out on the river by
whose academic honors are too deeply writ
ten on his hairless face? The young lieu
tenant Is a figure Of romance, with all the
charm and virility Of the grown-up, though
still Juvenile cavalier. whereas the boy-bar-
rister is an absurd example, an old head on
young shoulders, weighed down with re-
sponsibilities and cares.
But when a man has left the golden age
Of extreme youth, then, I fancy, he looks
.handsomer and younger unshaved. That Is
because SO many men wear moustaches for
fifty, ugly, grizzled, straggly moustaches,
which they declare filter the air. or keep
them from catching cold "a frequent ex-
cuse for that abomination, the long beard),
or do something else wise, but not rictur-
esoue; perchance conceal weak mouth or
un'beautiful teeth, or lessen the apparent
measurement of an over-important nose.
A clean-shaven man Is usually credited
with being more of dandy than man
who grows his beard and moustache; but
am sure that that Is only stereotyped
ing by pictures in Punch Of that period.
many men were as thoroughly anxious to
make the most of their personal appear
ance as many men are now, and yet they
wore moustaches and very long side whis-
kers. M. H.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-12
Advice to Bathers.

There is certainly nothing more delightful
or more invigorating than sea bathing. but
like all other good things it may be over
done. Physicians agree that from fifteen to
twenty minutes is the longest time one
should stay in the water. After that the
tonic effect passes off and the bath becomes
weakening instead Of bracing. II is not at
all a good plan to take bath In sections,
as so many girls do-that is, to go into the
water for a little then out on the dry sand,
and then into the water again. To get the
real good of the ocean go right in; get wet
ali over as speedily as possible. Stay UNI
der the water as much as you can, and
when you come out go directly to the bath
house and dress quickly. If you are In
clined to be chilly when you come out OF
the water eat a sandwich or a biscuit while
essing.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-12
Take Children on Vacation.

From Field and Stream.
II more people knew the lifelong benefits
to their children of vacation trips into the
woods, they would never hesitate mo,
ment, but consider the children first and
themselves afterward There are few
things in this life 80 downright pathetic as
the common sight of three. four and five
year-old children being wheeled about In
little go-carts when they should be tod
ding along on the feet nature intended
them to use.
And vet, even these dollhouse youngsters
would soon be ruddy and healthy II their
parents should live under canvas during a
mart OF the summer and let the little folks
paddle about In the water, digNin the sand.
and spoil their clothes In learning the
noble art of mud-pie making.
In planning a vacation this summer,
make a memorandum something like this:
ssTake the wife and youngsters along or
STAY at home" And underscore young
sters." then stick to this determination If
YOU have to kidnap the children. Tell the
wife that she can take along one change
of good clothes for each child-to wear on
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-12
.5paneJed Tulle- Iea, Gown q {

to line silk jacket with thin albatross
cloth, which gives warmth without weight
and without in any way interfering with
the fit Of the Jacket e1 itself The skirts need
Ing Is as popular as ever and comes into
excellent service for matinees, both jacket
and skirt being pleated, and when the
model is chosen there need not be nearly
SO much lace used in the trimming.
X
There are very few gowns a woman wears
In which she looks better than the modern
tea gown, which Is certainly a most grace
full garment and which ought never to be
unbecoming. 1t is a costly and expensive
one in many instances, for it would seem
as though no material were too handsome
to use or no trimming too costly to COM
bine with 1t, but while these expensive
gowns are, Of course, much to be desired,
it Is yet perfectly possible to have an ex-
tremely satisfactory and very smart one
made of more ordinary fabrics at cost
of less than half than the other already
spoken of. The newest models are all on
the picturesque order, and the various Louis
periods. as they are known, are more than
Indicated. The old French fabrics, the
charming pompadour silks and colorings
and rare old laces and trimmings will be
seen this winter In the handsomest of these
gowns The brocaded silks and satins are
thought none too handsome for this pur-
pose, and the manufacturers have brought
forward most wonderful limitations of the
old colorings and designs, both in silks and
satins. The lines are long and graceful,
falling loose from the shoulders and in
long train skirts. There Is more than
hint Of the empire and the directoire. while
the princess and the Watteau styles are
equally popular.
Low in the neck, with short sleeves or
with long, close-fitting undersleeves Of lace
that are seen beneath the hanging folds
of the silk OF satin, there is a most pictur-
esque appearance about these gowns. and,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-12

amethyst set in the back, are also highly
popular and are now worn with the brooch.
When whole pearls instead of half pearls
are used the price of the brooch is very
much increased
Garnets are the fashionable necklace
jewels just now in the antique shops. Old
considered most desirable. Some of these
chains have bangles Of larger stars in the
front and others are more like collars,
having quite deep ornaments of little
chains and stars across the front. There
are also the garnet chains, made of strands
Of garnets clasped together with garnet
bars at intervals. These are, in fact, col
lars, and have much more modern look
than the star pattern, although the antique
dealers declare them to be genuine old
pieces.
In these chains Is shown the fashion of
having two bracelets, which can be clasped
together and made into a dog collar at
WILL Most women prefer nowadays to buy
their bracelets and chains in this form. the
bracelet fad. it is rather felt, isn't going to
last long enough and become settled
enough fashion to make the purchase Of
| jewels which can be used for bracelets
alone worth while. So almost all bracelets
| to fasten together into dog collars or neck
laces. Brooches in garnets are also much
sought after. The old star-shaped brooches
are most highly priced. They are made Of
gold edging in filigree usually ornaments
| the center. Many of these brooches have
pendants equally large.
A still newer revival than that OF the
I garnets Is that of the old-fashioned Jet
| necklaces. A few very rare necklaces made
| of jet ovals are shown at the jewellers.
| The ovals are of beautiful dull old jet, split
| In the middle and set in plain gold. the
| gold being not only around the ovals, but
| at the back also. The tiniest gold links
connect the Jets. and there is for pendant
| a round Jet locket meant to hold a photo
graph. The locket has tiny band Of gold
| around the edge, and in the center there Is
/ a small pearl. These chains, which were
! made about forty years ago by the best
| jewellers only. are of exceedingly fine work
| manship and material. On one of them
| found at an antique shop there was an in
| scription on the gold backs of the jet ovals.
| One letter on each oval spelled out the
| words, my wife,"
Not so beautiful nor so rare, of course.
| as this sort of chain, but still very de-
| sirable are the charms of jet beads or
| pieced let, some of them connected by gold
/ clasps Jet bracelets of squares and ovals
| strung on rubbers are also among the
| revived fashions. Dog collars of the same
are made by putting the two bracelets to-
| gether.
Combs for the hair Of silver and silver
| gilt are also being revived. Very large
combs are to be worn, and the larger the
ancestral back comb the better. The tops
Of these combs, meant for wear In . Low
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-12
PLEA FOR MoUsTACRE.
Is Woman's Admiration for the Clean
Shaver Man Waningp

From the result Of an inquiry. published
in the Gaulois. I am convinced that the
opinions Of wives rank as nothing In the
estimation Of husbands when the question,
Shall shave or not? calls for an answer.
Only two out of 100 men to whom the
question was put. why do you wear NOUS
taches?" admitted that 1t was to please
their wives.
But, on the other hand, sixty declared
that they wore them because women do not
like clean-shaven men. I wonder whether
that is strictly correct?
The reason why the Gaulois inquiry has
aroused this theme, in my mind, Is that
many Of the gilded youth Of Paris are now
bowling to Natures decree and are wearing
hair upon their faces. A soft beard ana
downy moustache seem to be the ambl-
ton Of the quite young men, and though
they add ten years to q mere youths ap-
parent age, they certainly make for nov
city OF appearance.
Many girls Of my age have never seen
boards on any young men, Old gardeners,
railway porters in country stations, and a
few grandfathers are the only men who
do not shave, SO 1t Is quite q surprise TO
meet boys of twenty-five with their faces
thus adorned in Paris.
TO speak quite truthfully, I do not ike
boards: upon that point I am firm. But
whether moustache Is or Is not. an orna-
ment am not quite certain.
Men In pictures and men on the stage
look best with clean-shaven faces and
Nike my hero in fiction to possess clear-cut
features. hairless chin and an unshaven
lip. II he were described as plump and
bearded I should detest him. But NOUS
tached husband could ask for half q
dozen hats at time. whereas the stern
set mouth Of the clean-shaven one pursed
up to utter rigid mo" before my words
were fairly uttered would. I am certain.
terrorize me into meekly suggesting one.
asked my dearest girl friend to arbi-
trate upon this important question, and her
reply leads me to fancy that she favors
the moustache. Says she: "A very dear
man almost kissed me once. 1t was In
Aunt Gwendolyn's conservatory and II
Aunt @. had not at that moment seen fit to
whisk out of the drawing room almost into
our united arms should have been able to
state with decision whether I prefer the
kisses OF the smooth<lipped man or those
OF one Of the moustached persuasion.
1.-THE brushing Of this mans moustache
upon my cheek thought distinctly pleas
anti 1t seemed to promise something differ
emit from the ordinary experience"
KiplinS somewhere says, or makes 9
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-12

in fact, the smartest Of them look as II
copied direct from old paintings. There are
also the thin fabrics used in their construc-
ton. the hand-painted chiffon and net that
are made up over tight-fltting Innings of
silk or satin, or the finest Of lace is used
for the entire gown, with only heavy lolos
will be short boleros of lace or embroidery
worn over. plain or plated chiffon gowns,
the Vatican plating coming out from the
shoulders between the two halves OF the
jacket at the back, while the same sort OF
lace as the Jacket is composed of is put In
a band around the hem of the skirt or the
band around the hem of the skirt will be
Of silver or gold or colored passementerie
and the jacket and embroidery will be the
same, as may easily be imagined. All this
furnishes an excellent opportunity for
charming color schemes and 1t Is WONDER
full what exquisite colors can be put to-
gether in the embroidery and in the ma
terial itself. A pale mauve and blue and
pink also in light shades are excellent to
start with, for then there can be touches
of darker color in the velvet or in the en-
broidery that Is used, while the cloth OF
gold or cloth Of silver-those materials that
are SO fashionable this season-can be used
in bodice or girdle or tied in knots or
rosettes at the side of the waist.
It Is rather fad this year to use arti-
fetal flowers in trimmings. and the most
elaborate tea gowns show this fashion
either in one large flower or little garlands
of flowers made Of chiffon or silk or of the
cloth Of gold or silver. AS may easily be
ina gined, these trimmings of flowers are
not in keeping with anything but a very
elaborate style Of gown, one that Is suit
able for dinner at home. but are not for
wear or for the palmer style Of tea gowns
such as are made Of velvet, panne velvet,
by the way, being fashionable material
! is on the more severe order than the bro
| cades or chiffons, either plain or colored.
! Crepe de chine, plain or embroidered, Is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-12
The Care of the Child.
ON Harper's Bazaar.

FROM Harper's Bazaar.
In the first place. establish a system
which will help you much in the care OF
your baby and little ones. Have a regular
time for rising, bath. meals. airing. bed
time etc. There is no reason. If the child
wakes up at 4 o'clock in the morning and
wants amusement. that the tired mother
should give up those early hours Of sleep,
which are the sweetest and ofttimes the
most beneficial to her, Just because the
children want her to. The younger the
baby the easier it is to teach him to sleep
at the proper time; children of two, three.
four years and older have most active
brains. and if they awake early do not go
to sleep again as easily as a baby. They
want frolic or they cry Justify for atten-
ton and amusement; they want a cracker
or something to eat. or they want to crawl
into mothers bed to cuddle, play, tease or
fret. If the mother allows this sort OF
thing she establishes bad precedent: the
children soon learn to impose upon her.
This creates certain selfish lack Of con-
sideration. which increases as the child
grows older.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-12
La,ce a,nd Chiffon Ea. Go~r

a fashionable material for this, purpose
and a most useful one. The embroidery
can make it extremely expensive, for it
is as a rule embroidered on the material
ITSELF or it can be of the plain fabric,
with lines of trimming, or it can be quite
plain, with only trimming around the hem
and with lace insertion and ruff1eS cut
away at the neck with short sleeves and
with a draped fichu of lace or lace and
net, the long ends left to hang down full
length of the skirt in front and with
lace front. crepe de chine gown can
be made at comparatively little cost. ana
yet it can be extremely smart ana at
tractive.
All white tea gowns are fashionable and
are made in all sorts of materials. A
white panne velvet, with a silver girdle,
is very charming, and there are new ma
terials in white that make up effectively.
White silk is not nearly so effective as col
ored or figured, and white crepe de chine
requires a great deal of trimming, but IL
the fad is to have all ones gowns white
then the tea gown must be no exception,
and If any color is desired 1t is very easy
to introduce it in the folds that face the
front or in the belt in knot or folds
across the bust.
| Heavy lace coats such as have been
sold at great bargains recently make up
very satisfactorily into smart tea gowns
The skirt can be of silk or satin or chiffon,
spond The fronts of the coat hang loose
and there Is a straight front Of the chiffon
or SILK seen between the fronts of the coat.
A belt Of velvet drawn we'll down in front,
with the ends passed through buckle,
holds the coat in in the back. and yet
while defining the figure in front and the
sides, does not do away with the effect OF
it's being tea gown. as might be supposed
when one of these loose coats Is used
Made up over pale pink, mauve, yellow or
white, such a gown Is very smart and at
| tractive. All kinds of lace are used in the
construction of these gowns. When the
entire gown is made of lace it Is simply
| question of choice whether 1t shall be q
| heavy variety or one Of fine quality and
design. The Chantilly, Valenciennes and
| laces Of this description are so much softer
/ than the Irish or cluny or renaissance
I that they can be draped into soft folds
and are caught upon the shoulder or are
| gathered or plated in a way that would
not be appropriate to others. They are
| charming and graceful and very smart, and
| one of the best ways to use a handsome
| point lace veil is to combine it with accor-
| dion plated chiffon In tea gown and make
| II I'D over white or some pale color. The
heavier laces look best in long, unbroken
| lines, and they are made over colors prefer
| able to a light shade.
| Among the newest fashions is the trim
| ming Of lace gowns with bands OF fur,
| preferably sable. OF course, sable is the
| most expensive, but. failing in that, any
| other fur can be used, narrow bands being
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-12
Revival Of the Sunbonnet.

From the st. Louis Globe-Democrat.
1t should be with great rejoicings that
too extravagant world welcomes back the
sunbonnet, which Is said to be coming In
style again. That fetching headgear of
simpler time coming to us now seems to
argue the revival of manners and customs
that are dear to the older generations and
that were a credit to the race. The sun
bonnet correlates walks in the sun and
neighborly visits through back yards on
sultry afternoons. 1t means less OF formal
ity and more friendliness. Also less expense
to the heads of houses. The revival Of the
sunbonnet bespeaks return on the part
of our sisters to proper ideas of headcov-
ering, to the idea that hat Is to be worn
rather as a protection against the elements
than as something purely decorative.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-12
Color Matching.
be PhiAdelphia North American.

From the Philadelphia North American.
The absence Of anything like color
nomenclature is a matter that has enbar-
raised the decorator. weaver, and those Of
similar callings for q long time. but this
will, to a great extent. be overcome by the
introduction Of tint-finding machine.
which has been recently brought into this
country from England. 1t was originally
designed for the use Of the dyer and weav-
err, but this particular machine was dis
covered in London by New York dress
would be of great value to him in the
selection of pleasing combinations Of coli
ors to be used in the design of women's
gowns. 1t will be particularly available,
also, for the decorator; in fact, the posst-
bilities in this direction seem to be greater
than in any other.
The nomenclature of color being without
any recognized standard, the satisfactory