The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1906-08-26

duke IN case they should hear of
misunderstanding between the two il
would be only business caution not te
cut the goods until informed that the
quarrel had been made up. If the duke
and Fiji fail to mend their dispute ii
will be well to wait awhile before can
ceiling the order. because the dancer
has another friend who is a rich manu-
facturer and he may agree to pay her
bills. 1t makes no difference to the
dressmaker who does the paying, and
in the meantime the practice of great
caution and diplomacy is necessary in
order that Fiji may not become in
| censed at the delay and take her orders
elsewhere.
CLEVER ADVERTISING DODGE.
There is hardly any gathering in
France where greater display of fine
clothes may be seen than at the races.
1t is customary for the great dressmak-
ing establishments to send out their
models as an advertisement. Not long
ago a shrewd advertiser worked q
dodge which secured columns of free
advertising in the European papers,
and which even found it's way into a
large number of the best journals in
the United states. The management of
a large fur house brought out a beau
tfful coat valued at $4,000. They sent
for a noted actress and requested her
to wear the garment and pose for some
photographs, at least that is what the
proprietors of the fur house claimed.
The actress maintained that the fur
riers gave her the coat for the adver-
Using which would result from her
wearing it. No one was present at the
interview except the manager and the
actress. and she came away with the
coat. Inasmuch as she had been given
possession of it she had the best of the
argument. The matter was taken into
the courts and the novelty of the case
character that accounts Of it appeared
everywhere. Later the whole affair
proved to be merely clever advertis-
ing scheme.
People often ask how are the fashions
made. In reality no one makes them;
they just come about one thing or an
other acting as a suggestion which
leads to the establishment of an idea.
The picture galleries of Europe are an
mine of inspiration to
those whose task it is to create new
costumes. Every international incident
Of Importance has it's impress on the
makeup of the seasons clothes. For
instance, when the French invaded
Algiers the Arabian burnous proved
g. suggestion that dealers readily &C
cepted. When Russia became the GEN.
ter of interest the loose bloused tunic
Of the moujik was adopted by the de- /
signers. The Spanish bolero has been
worked into garments in a thousand
different ways, and changes are still
being wrought with it. China Japan,
and other far eastern countries have
given many suggestions to fashion.
ALWAYS ON THE LOOKOUT.
The wfdeawake dressmaker finds his
greatest field of suggestion in the gath
.rings of fashionable people, be it at
he races, an automobile. show, the first
hight of play, or a festival on the
boulevard. BY closely inspecting the
reations of his competitors he gets an
dea here and hint there; then he
'uts the bits together. and 10. he has
mother masterpiece for his trade.
Some one has said that the great Il
ressmaker may be born anywhere. \
Ut that it is impossible for him to
ONE into his artistic heritage outside
Paris. And it is a notable fact that
lany OF the great Partisan dress
IA kers are foreigners. Worth, as ev- r
ryone knows was an Englishman
no came to Paris from Birmingham
Ger made his start in Berlin. The
Laison DrecoI was established by
oman from Amsterdam. Madame a
oderigues was a Portuguese. Some n
the greatest dressmakers have risen q
supreme heights of fame and pros h
arity in an incredibly short time. q
w years ago Panuin was a poorly 4
id clerk. He married a modest little 3
essmaker who was quite as much Of 3
unknown as himself Some one
I'VE them a start in business ana their !
Sc to popularity was nothing short of !
nsa tional.
The last few years have witnessed a
dicaI change in the methods of doing q
siness. The men of the old school 4
rely came in contact with their 3
irons. The details of the showroom
re left altogether to subordinates,
tn the evident intention Of impress -
: the customer with the idea that the HI
sster must be left alone to brood in 81
ence and evolve the creations that te