The mirror. (Stillwater, Minn.) 1894-1925, 1906-02-15
THE RESTAURANTS OF NEW YORK.
In Two Parts.
Part H. Foreign Restaurants.

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"HE GERMAN restaurants of
New York need but little
description, as they do not dis
tinguish themselves in any vital
point from the many similar establish
ments in all the large cities Of the
United States. German cooking holds
the medium between English and
French cooking. 1t is more elaborate
than the former, and more substantial
than the latter. The different dishes
are prepared with more care than
those in American restaurants. The
many Rathskeller and other first-class
places, where meals are served ex-
clusively la carte, are somewhat ex-
pensive affairs; but they enjoy an
excellent patronage for all that, and
one gets the value of bis money.
Tho over fifty thousand Italians
land in New York ever year, Italian
restaurants do not make themselves
conspicuous, and it seems that the sons
of the Sunny South take their meals
principally in boarding houses and
homes. The we'll known establish
ments of Martinelli, Riccadonna, and
few others, have received no additions
in recent years. In these places meals
are served table d'h0te at from seventy
five cents to one dollar, including a
pint of claret. Macsroni, without any
extras, always forms separate course
etsthese sneals.
The Rnssian-POlis Jews, now almost
the sole occupants of the tremendous
and thickly settled quarter bounded by
the Bowery, East River, Catherine and
First Streets (popularly known as "New
Jerusalem') conduct their restaurants
exactly as they used to do in their home
country; perhaps slightly more elabor-
ate. Garlic pervades the whole atmos.
phere; the people, the houses and the
streets smell of it in that locality.
The dual empire on the Danube has
supplied New York with no less than
five different kinds of restaurants: the
Vienna, the German-Jewish, the Hun
garian, Polish and Bohemian. The
first named are numerous, and some Of
them are very good. Fleischmann's, at
Broadway and Tenth Street, used to be
very popular, and even now is doing a
good business, tho locality farther up
town would be more advantageous to
a restaurant of this kind.
In distinct localities many good res.
taurants are kept by Jews, mostly
Austrian. Only part of these are
"koscher," which means that meats
and few other dishes are prepared
according to orthodox semitic rites
One eats very good at these places-at
+ moderate prices. The Jews know wha
is good; but they take good care tba
they are not overcharged. One O.
these restaurants, which at the sam'
time is cafe-in it's European sense
for it has no bar-has been doing bust
ness on Second Avenue near Ninth Stree
for more than twenty years. The!
charge there twenty-five cents for soup
one meat order with vegetables, pastr.
and coffee, and thirty-five cents OF
Sundays. After meals the men with
draw to rear rooms and play penuchle
taroct, or skat, always for money
The stakes are low; but they play wit
an eagerness, as if their future depend
ed on it; are pleased when they win
and in bad humor when they lose. Fo
these games are more trials of ski
than of chance, and the best playe
always wins in the long run.
The few Hungarian restaurants do
lively business. Goulas, Paprik
Schmitzel, Papriks Chicken, and Pal
rika in everything, is in great deman
there; also imported Hungarian wine
and those long rattails with stra
mouthpieces, which the Austrians ca
Virginia cigars, but which are made
the strong Hungarian tobacco.
these places, and also in some Frenc
ones, the preprietors keep for Il
accommodation of their guests the Q,
cellent Macedonia (Turkish) cigaret1
tobacco, which costs fifty-ave cents p'