Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial. (Wilmington, Del.) 1878-1928, 1906-01-08

corded linen. cut of medium width and
only slightly broader al the ends. The
butterfly wings are, of course, as extinct
as the dodo, and ties are rather broader
than they have been for several years
past
When neither poke nor a lapiront col
lar is worn the tie may be kept IN place by
a white pin stuck Immediately through the
centre OF the tie and the lap OF the collar.
The various gold and other pins made for
this purpose should be- avoided hy an who
want to keep To- the best style il is
mistake TO have the ties worn with even
ing dress made In the least stiff with starch.
AS to handkerchiels the well dressed
man should cling to pure white linen
They may be had in any degree of lincness
But the cheapest is just as correct In style
as the most expensive. Mems dress
handkerchief in the sheer muslin, with
embroidery and ornamcntation may cost
as much as $40
The hcadgear of evening dress is the silk
| hat of ordinary daytime wear Accord
| ing to every rule of correct dressing the
! opera hat is The better style That Is true
of every country but the United States.
In New York the best dressed men, for
reasons OF their own, prefer TO wear silk
hats in the evening. Thus It happens
that one sees them in the corridors of the
/ Metropolitan Opera House and at Sherry s
when there is a large bah going ON.
Needed it be added TO these remarks on
I evening dress that a black Tie should never
be worn with evening dress except when
man is in mourning Then he wears with
it a black waistcoat and mourning studs
Pearls are commonly regarded as mourn
ing, although there are many persons who
think that black enamel Is alone correct
for mourning.
Naturally such evening dress is worn
only TO men s dinners or to small dinners
nc which few women are present. Per-
sons in such deep mourning do not 60 into
society. black lie with D white waist
coat is sartorial Improperly that no
pressure of circumstances could excuse.
The dinner coat is an extremely useful
garment The best test of the appropriate
ness of the dinner coat is the presence of
ladies'. IL might be safely predicated
as rule that it is out of place when ladies
are to be present where it is worn.
But there are exceptions to this rule.
Men who are In the habit of dressing every
night for dinner feel that the dinner coat is
formal enough for home use; and they are
right.
As a result Of this, they also believe that
they can wear dinner coat when they go
TO the theatre with their wives. This Is, of
course less permissible, and the best
! dressed man is he who goes TO the theatre
with his wife IN full evening dress
AZ informal evening gatherings for
3 bridge OF other games men are likely TO
take advantage of the greater comfort of
the dinner coat But this tendency does
not prove that the style is correct. When
) ever women are present coattails and white
ties should be feature of evening dress.
+ The newest style in the Tuxedo on
dinner coat is made of an undressod wor-
5 sted, is close fitting and long enough to fall
well below the hips. The seams IN the
back OF the coat arc SO curved as TO pro-
duce q moderately bell shaped effect.
This novelty must not, however, be ok
, aggemied The least excess in the bell
p shape turns smart shape of fashion into
) vulganty
The cont may be made as tight fitting in
D the waist as the Wearcr wants IL Is best
e form 20 have the coat close fitting. but
7 looser than a dress coat.
, The shoulders are not padded but OF
{ natural width, and the lapols are long and
{ narrow, with two butt0nhoes, which ore
b OF course, not used The pockets of th,
D dinner coat are made without flaps and IN
some coats they are vertical and not hori
) zontal
e The waistcoat and trousers are finished
/, IN braid, the vaistcoat having three but.
s tons and being cut with rather a pointed
D effect IN both the opening and at the bot
r. tom. In plain cloth like the rest of th,
r sui, the waistcoat is single breasted
The plain waistcoats are SO little worn
however, that they no longer rome into
, notice. Gray and black six waistcoats
e which are almost invariably double
E breasted are made to relieve the plainncs
{ of the dinner coat. Whether or not the,
{ are good form is a question that has littl
b. effect ON their popularity.
There was no possibility of wearing
b white waistcoat with "a Tuxedo and then
was 2 evolt against the extreme plainncs
OF the black waistcoat from those mel
trying TO convert the Tuxedo into some