Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16
Crspe, de- Chine Gown

There is complicated little jacket, alb
surdly short, slightly bloused and finished
with a double frill of chiffon. The TRIM
mings of plain velvet of a darker shade
with several fat bands of embroidered vel
vet The gown is stylish and so unusual
as not TO permit of indiscriminate copying
by the great majority of women The same
model carried out in black crepe de chine,
with jacket rather longer, would be equal
" effective and possibly more becoming to
the average figure. But the model has, at
all events the great charm of originality,
and in all respects shows the mark of the
finest handiwork.
*
To trim cloth with taffeta of same
shade is not exactly new fashion, but 1t
is a fashion that has suddenly been revived
and many of the new gowns are made up
with this sort of trimming. Embroidered
taffeta combined with English embroidery,
the open work and eyeet hole kind, is the
most expensive and effective, but another
trimming offered is a side pleating covered
with French knots of the same shade or
silk the taffeta. gray gown, for
instance is trimmed with these bands of
pleated taffeta about two or four inches
wide. and is heavily embroidered with the
French knots. 1t is an odd style of trim
ming. and in this case the oddity makes II
smart and popular.
Then there is the pleating without the
knots, which is the same shade as the
gown. A pale gray costume is trimmed
in this manner and is decidedly noticeable,
for the silk and cloth match so exactly.
Another out of the ordinary point about
this costume is the double skirt effect
quite different from anything of the sort
that has vet been seen. The overskirt is
of medium length extremely graceful, and
might serve almost as a continuation OF
the waist, for it is high in the belt and
has a bodice appearance. Both the over
skirt and the skirt itself are bordered with
bands of the pleated taffeta.
A black costume made after this model
is extremely smart, for there Is enough
white introduced into the waist to make 1t
becoming, while just a touch or two or
color any shade that is becoming, is also
cleverly inserted in rosettes or knots Then,
too there can be a line of a contrasting
color introduced in the belt or bodice.
-
1t is odd to notice how effective Is the
combining of silk and cloth 1t reminds one
of the time when taffeta gowns were trim
med with cloth, fashion that was smart
and never became common. Now this re-
versal of the combination, the trimming of
cloth with taffeta, is more popular even
than that was, and the great danger is
that 1t may become too popular, the usual
fate of a fashion that is unusual and worth
following. In light shades as we'll as in
dark this style of trimming is much in de-
mand. But the great danger to the mex
pert dressmaker is in the difficulty of get
ting shade of silk that looks we'll with
the cloth. 1t Is great mistake to choose
any shade that Is not an exact match. A
color slightly off completely ruins what
would be otherwise smart and attractive
creation.
All the new velvets and the new ma
terials that are brought out for autumn
are rather heavier than those which have
been worn through the summer, and these
can be made after the same models as the
lightweight cloth, with trimming of the
taffeta silk in the above manner. The
most effective Of all are the eoliennes,
soft silky fabric that would look well trim
med with velvet or satin but which lends
\ itself perfectly to taffeta decoration.
There Is a new and queer shade of brown
that dressmakers are attempting to make
fashionable. In this material It Is consid-
cred very stylish and can be had in taffeta
Of the same shade.
A bolero or Elton jacket of embroidered
taffeta Is rather unusual because 1t has
sleeves to match, while in front 1t Is laid
in pleats instead Of being left plain, as has
been the case heretofore with all embroid-
cred Jackets 1t IL difficult to get q becOm-
ing shade of brown In taffeta silk. and
there il only this one shade in the darker
colors that Is at all possible. In the very