davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1906-11-25
PLAID CLOTH cOSTurtE

the expensive Izsnlons OF rns cay r.
the long coat that - made Ike q gown
and yet covers q gown worn undsr-
meath AT drst glance 70 seems a.
though some OF these coats were
merely short jackets. something On ths
empire or princess order. worn over
the empire or princess gown In re-
ality II is only The trimming that
makes them look SO. and they ars IN
truth outer garments intended TO be
worn over the gowns OF lighter weight
that are so extremely fashionable again
this winter Then there are the long
coats. tight fitting ar the back, and. IN
fact. tight fitting altogether. excepting
just in front where the fronts hang
straight These require a perfectfon
OF cut and 1T such as Is demanded by
the riding habit. but they are not IN
the least on that order Of garment and
IN order 10 be thought smart require
TO be quite elaborateiy trimmed They
are only tight fitting as far as the
waist and the skirts are full Worn
over gowns or the same color IN q
lighter weight material. or II the coat
be made OF a light material OF the
same description. they are most useful
and very smart garments. but are much
more attractive in very light colors or
n black Oddly enough. they are not
so satisfactory or effective IN the
ssarl<sr colOrs. like red. blue or purple.
n me pa-eSl OF SEdL8 ana L4n1 Ll3V
are charming. and the most striking ara
trimmed with bands OF velvet the same
shade. much darker or black The
model Is one that Is too striking % be
universally adopted. bu- at the sarno
time IL will be extremely fashionable.
Embroidered velvet and embroidered
satin trimmings are used with the cloth
costumes and IN bands. or in inser-
tions thar are most cleverly let into
the cloth itself. All such trimmings
are expensive. but this style OF dress Is
e~-oct@6 70 be among the more elah-
crate costumes for the winter These
u.nes that will be worn at
the afternoon wedding receptions. and
II the waist OF the gown be heavily
enough trimmed with lace and chiffon
or net. Will be considered appropriats
for the theater or for dining IN public
To add 10 the costliness edgings %
sable or chinchilIa fur are OCCASIONALLY
20 be SEEN but IL Is rather early as
yet for the fur-trimned costume to
make it's appearance and for the pres
ent at least the elaborate gown worn
with a fur wrap Is more often to bo
noticed than one trimmed with fur
The San Francisco call., 1906-11-25

the corset skirt or II the urrncess
gown worn under a jacket. Lace yokes
and sleeves are not new in cloth gowns.
but probably because lace softens and
makes more becoming the cloth, II is
just as fashionable as ever 10 have
lace yoke and either lace sleeves or q
great cesi OF lace in the sleeves TN
der all circumstances there must be a
lace stock collar and small chemiseste
and cuffs OF the unlined lace.
The lighter shades OF cloth are made
Up IN the more elaborate style of gowns
intended for the afternoon and for re-
ceptioH wear. and yet. while tight coll
ors are fashionable this year. the dark
clotn costumes are much more popular
tnan they were last But as has been
said In the fashionable outfit of TODAY
there must be more than one cloth
gown. and so q woman can have both
and feel at the same time that she Is
not extrsvagant according to the rules
and regulations OF modern dress. There
Is an exquisite shade or purple this
year that has not yet become TOO pom
eiar 10 be smart that is made up in a
ciotn OF fnest texture ard in 2 most
eIectiFe costume. The long skirt is
laid in pleats that are fastened down al
tne upper part and then hare toward
the foot Just IN front there is
double box pieat that does not meet in
the center. but opens to show a band
The San Francisco call., 1906-11-25
II WORLD BURIES IT'S DEAD-A st

Continued from Back Page OF This
Section
for miles outside the city walls They
are said 70 contain no less than six
million tombs. II Is q grewsone ex-
perience to descend into these dismal
passages IN company with a brown
cowied. bzrefooted friar and traverse
rniie after mile OF narrow. rock-cut gall
ieries lit only BY dickering candles
which one carries IN his hands On
either side the walls are perforated
with rows OF narrow inches. just large
enough 70 receive the bodies OF the
dead. each hole being now filed With
The crumbling bones and duet OF what
was once. some sixteen or seventeen
hundred years ago. living human be-
ing. Originally. each opening was
cloSed jy a slab upon which the name
q the deceased was inscribed
The Roman cztacombs were excavat-
ed with one gallery below another, ex-
tending three. four and sometimes even
re stories underground They were
not abandoned cGarrles. as was some
times the case IN Sicily. but were ex-
csrated ~ the early Christians them
serves. VINO. during the bloody perse-
cution OF DiOcletian, took refuge ia
these dismal depths in order 20 cele-
brate the ceremonies OF their religion
Il is advisable TO keep close 10 the
nlonkiEh guide in exploring these laby-
rinthine passages. for there are
strange stories told OF people who
have been lost "a the awful darkness
OF the cztacombs and never heard OF
since II would not be a pleasant ex-
perience 70 be lost amid these endless
galleries OF darkness; among these un-
counted dead: and to wander on and
OF "a never-ending horror Of silence
Until death By starvation came 20 end
tie tragedy.
The San Francisco call., 1906-11-25
~N CLOTH DRlvINc COAT ~

co ~.so eyrufvIuered IN navy Sesfgns
There Is q shade OF yellow that is be-
coming. and trimmed with velvet the
me shade, softened with ecru lace,
Is the most charmingly effective
caeme imaginable. With a hat
tch OF velvet. with ostrich plumes.
ne same shade. this costume would
iceable anywhere Then there Is
.erper color, but really of the same
: dng, that combines exquIsitely with
brown. and the cloth costumes made OF
IL are extremely striking. Apparently
il Is the end and aim OF the best dress
makers and tailors this year 10 keen
the lines as unbroken as possible. and
even when there is great deal
OF trimming. velvet. embroidery or
braiding-whatever II may be-to have
the design so harmonious that IL will
nor break the outline OF the gown
Itself II there is heavy embroidery
around the foot of the skirt, extending
on up into the skirt, then II Is much
heavier around the foot. both in pat
tern and color. while the fat lines OF
braid or velvet down the front should
accord with the outline OF the skirt
and at the same time be the same as is
The San Francisco call., 1906-11-25

OF oark velvet severai snauas dzrx er
than the cloth There Is no other trim
ming on the skirt The coat is of med
ium length. with quite an empire, ,eTecf
in the back and a velvet poke -
the shoulders The fronts OF the
are straight. faced with velee
turned back to show a double b-ca
waIstcoat of either pale yellow bro a
or cloth with gilt buttons. The sleeves
are long. with deep velve, GUYS and
ruffies or lace falling over the hand.
Across the shoulders at the back ap-
piiQued on to the velvet. is passemen-
terie. and the same ornament is repeat
ed on the front OF the coat. or or either
side of the coat in front there may be
fancy passementerie ornaments. This
model has proved a very popular one,
and is made in different colors, but the
most effective OF all has been the one
in the new shade OF purple.
White is not so fashionable this year
as last. and champagne white. that was
last year so popular. Is now cast in the
background by different shade. more
like the oyster white. which has a
toning of gray through IT. All these
light gowns are most elaborately braid
The San Francisco call., 1906-11-25

70 the time when he will toin .sRrofycr
Stephanus and Brother Bartolou,eos
snd nd al the other sainted ones in the
frescoes upon these strangely decor
ated walls Even the Chandeliers which
hgnt tnese grewsome chapels are COM
posed OF the tibia and rib bones of
long departed brothers.
SomeWhat resembling the ossarfo of
the Roman Capuchins are the great
catacombs OF Palermo, the modern
capital or Sicily. These vast subter-
ranean crypts contain the skeletons
and mummied remains OF nearly so. emo
Sicilians: but, unlike the Capuchin
catacombs, these remains are, for the
most part, those OF the laity. The
greater number OF the cof7ins have been
emptied and the skeletons or mummies.
as the case may be, are laid on open
sneises or hung upright on the wall.
suspended by the neck.
Here. until recently, once each year
the friends Of the dead came to change
the clothing OF their departed dear
ones. and even feshiess skeletons re-
ceived once each year q change of gar
ments.
One pitifui little comm with a glass
front contains the skeleton OF q child.
carefully dressed in white, with a
faded pink ribbon encircling its little
waist and withered rose lying across
It The inscription reads: -1s-s.
Mori Antonino RuvoIo. di z2 Febrafo
di Ami 3 g Mesi s.
Poor little Anfoninoi The tears shed
above his little CONN have been dried
for generation and his little three
years and Eve months of life are with
out doubt q longforgotten memory.
Upon splendid catafalque In one OF
these strange chambers of death. with
lighted candles burning about IT. re-
pose the remains OF Crispi, the late
The San Francisco call., 1906-11-25
ADA Story OF Sepulcf1er i'm Many Lands

great Premier OF italy. He was a son
OF sunny Sicily. and naturally wished
to lie among his own people
No less remarkable than this dis
NAL charnel house or Palermo are the
catacombs OF Guanajuat0. in Mexico.
Here the dead are deposited IN recepta-
cles resembling bureau drawers. which
are slid into the walls OF the Pam
theon- Each space is rented for FIVE
years, and IL at the end or that period
grief has grown so cold that the
friends OF the deceased fail to renew W
the rent of the box. the bones are
thrown into the common bonepile- In
a subterraHean crypt beneath this PAN
theon burial place one descends to look
upon huge pile OF bones containing
the skeletons OF over 10000 poor un-
fortunates. forgotten by their friends
In one ghastly chamber there are two
long lines of mummies. suspended by
their necks. much after the custom pre-
vailing in Palermo.
In Persia the ritual OF the Naxf for
bade the pollution OF the sacred ele-
nients-air, fire and water-by contact
with the dead. so the Parsees expose
the bodies OF their departed friends IN
grewsome Towers of Silence" open to
the sky, to be devoured by vultures
and other birds Of prey. large numbers
of which are constantly sitting In
ghastly expectation upon the upper
walls awaiting the coming OF the dead.
Those who are familiar with Flor
ence viii recall the feeling OF name
less horror w1tsl which they first en-
countered the black robed Brothers of
Mssericordia bearfrg dead or dying
person on a litter through the streets
This strange brotherhood is a charf-
table burial club which had its origin
at the time OF the great plague. which
brought desolation TO italy during the
The San Francisco call., 1906-11-25

One OF the most interesting sights
o1ten seen IN the streets OF Cairo is an
Arab funeral II is a repetition OF the
funerals described In the Bible A COM
pany of blind men so before the
corpses. chanting passages from the
Koran. and prayers for the dead: and
after the body. which is borne on the
shoulders OF the men. come the hired
mourners-women robed in gowns OF
blue (which Is the color for mourning Z
In Egypt)-who cast dust upon their
heads and wall cismally- The waiiing
of these professional mourning women
before the house OF death In Egypt Is
one OF the strangest memories OF that
strangely fascinating country.
There are many other curious burial
places and customs which might be
mentioned. among which perhaps none
are more grewsome than the dismal
pits for the common dead IN Naples
$50 in number. one for each day OF the
year. Day after day In succession each
Pit swallows up all the city's dead for
the twenty-four hours Uncofined and
sometimes unclothed. the bodies are
flung into the pit and covered with
quieklime. The pit Is then sealed and
not opened again for another year
The next day new pit VIII be opened
for the dead OF another day.
Travellers viii also remember with
many an Involuntary shiver the Church
OF ST Ursula at Cologne. where the
bones of the saint and her ten thousand
virgins. fsarsxred by the pagan Teu-
tons as they returned from their long
pilgrimage TO Rome are preserved IN
glass cases. which give to the old
church the appearance OF an apothe-
cary shop.
Among the most terrible OF burial
customs were those OF the Aztecs OF
The San Francisco call., 1906-11-25

Mexico. who sometimes sacrificed hun
creds OF slaves at the funeral services
OF their great men. buryfng the un-
fortunate victims alive with ths
African tribes are known TO do 70 this
day
Possibly the most beautiful OF burial
customs known among aboriginal Deo-
pie was that which prevailed among
the IroQuois Indians. OF freeing a cap
tive bird over the grave OF the dead
on the night OF burial TO carry thu
soul or the departed 10 the Spirit Land.
Westminster abbey In London and
santa Croce in Florence are beautiful
examples OF the pantheon church. en-
shrining the ashes OF the worlds great
dead. and few indeed are the Ameri-
cans who 90 20 England without maxi
Ing a pilgrimage 20 that lovely. ivy
clad church on the banks OF thu shin
ing Avon. where the dust ot thu In
mortal Shakespeare reposes under =
marble slab.
Among the worlds greatest mGrvels
rnausoleurn OF the Tai Mahal OF India
a yeritabie dream OF fretted marble
and mosaic l0veliness erected by the
great shah Jonan IN memory OF his
mrch-loved wife. Hadria1's tomb on
the banks OF the tawny Tiber Is one OF
the great examples OF the ancient
rnausolecr1s OF Rome. and the Albert
memorial IN London is probably thu
most imposing monument erected u
the dead during the last two centuries.
But the most famous tomb known TO
AL the world and one over which the
tears OF millions have been shed Il a
tomb which never existed at all--fhat
OF the fair girl-lover. Juliet. IN ths
beautiful old Italian city % VeronA
The San Francisco call., 1906-11-25

fELNEI and SATIN. Decade anc
six, al have their turns 81 be-
" ing popular but cloth never goes
ont OF fashion. and IN fact, no
thorough wardrobe is ever complete
without az least two cloth gowns, so
that really X ought not 70 be eiassed
with the other materials. This year Il
would seen as though Il were to be
more fashionable than ever. SO many
oiherent styles OF costumes look better
made I'D IN u than IN any other mate
rial Besides which there are 50 many
different patterns and qualities that IL
IS possible 10 secure always a variety
IN color and design.
D The figured cloths. under which head
cleviots and tweeds are included, are
t1e most suitable for the everyday
general wear gown, without which no
woman feels she cen get along and
wThich can be worn in every kind Of
weather and IS not injured by rain or
snow This year there are innumersbie
designs and colors 20 choose from. The
plaids and checks and stripes IN two
shades or more OF gray are very attrac-
tive and extremely smart They can be
made without any trimming excepting
on the collar. or they ceu have cousid-
cradle braid OF folds OF velvet The
skirts must be short and hang we'll: the
Z
must n well. and the whole effect OF
the costume must be smart, while being
severe. A waist 70 match the skirt in
this material is not 4 very good thing.
as Il is apt % be toe warm and heavy
70 wear under q jacket OF the same or
& fur coat. But there are any number
OF smart biouses that look well with
this sort OF gown. and after AL Il IS
one Intended for street wear only. The
Scotch plsids. especially those in green
and blue are chosen n preference to
any other color. except the fashionable
two-tOned Gra-s- These two-toned
grays are not always becoming. but
they caa be relieved by a touch OF red
o. of cerise velvet or bright blue
which Is extremely becoming
There are several different fashions
this year IN the walking skirts for
these cloth costumes. The pleated
skirt is az always becoming model. o.1t
g cannot be called new. and fzshioaa-
BE women demand novelty IN their
clothes as well IS their znusenents,
50 that there are great many variz-
tons OF the original theme. For in
The San Francisco call., 1906-11-25

At Syracuse. the ancient Greek cant
tai OF Sicily. there are also vast cata-
combs; some OF them dating back "a
very ancient times An fumense
quarry known as LatoniE def C-ann,,-
cini was the scene Of one of the most
horrible tragedies Of history.
into this great quarry, one hundred
rect In depth. Dionysius the Tyrant
threw seven hundred Athensan prison
ers after their defeat by the Syracusan
army, during the ffth century B. c.
There the wretched Athenians were
left 70 starve TO death, while the
heartless Syracusans amused them
selves BY watching their dying agonfes
from the brink OF the pit The doomed
Athenians were lowered into the pit
By means OF q derrick used 10 draw
up stones from the quarry; but today
one may descend into that ancient
charnel-house BY fight OF steps: and.
crawling through q hole into a huge
chamber Of lesser size, may look upon
a great pyramid OF skulls and human
bones. A tree which grows in the
bottom OF the quarry has been dec
GRATED by frreverent boys. and each OF
its branches now bears grinning hu-
man skull.
Chandeliers of Bones
The catacombs OF the capuchln
Friars at Rome are among the most
interesting sights OF the Eternal City.
They consist OF series OF FIVE chapefs
underneath the church OF that broth
erhoods the walls Of which are decor
ated with thousands OF human skefe-
tons. wrought into the most fantastic
designs. These are all the remains
OF Capuchin monks dead within the
last FIVE hundred years. and every
brown-cowied brother, as he tells his
rosary, looks forward with happiness
The San Francisco call., 1906-11-25

Middle Ages The Brothers OF Miseri-
cordia come from every walk OF life.
and no man knows the name or station
OF the man who walks beside him.
Robed and cowled IN black from head
TO foot, with only the eyes visible
through the holes In their pointed
cowls. princes. mobiles and bankers
walk side by side with street sweepers
and the poorest OF day laborers. as they
go about on their errands OF mercy.
These silent, black-robed figures slid-
ing through the narrow. winding
streets OF this old city OF palaces. bear
Ing their litter OF suffering or death.
present a grim. strange spectacle and
one which seems to belong to another
age.
A Greek funeral OF the present day
ie sight not likely TO be forgotten
by the impressionable traveller. boy
precedes the cortege bearing upright
the lid Of the coffin Following him
come acolytes. swinging burning cen
ed CROSS, the priests of the Greek
Church. clad In their full, gorgeous
vestments; then the CONN borne by
four men in such position that the
corpse Is seen full length In the open
box. and In a outstanding position.
Following the cofiin come the mourn
ers, with lighted candles. chanting
prayers for the dead
All Molsammedans desire immediate
burial upon the day OF death. in order
TO shorten their journey to Paradise
and the body IS always buried with
the head toward u cca- Most Hoslems
shave the entire scalp with the excep-
ton of one lock of hair in front which
is left FOR the Angel OF the Resurrec-
tion when ne comes to lift the faithful
from their graves on the Day OF Judg-
ment
The San Francisco call., 1906-11-25

stance. there will be double box pieats
IN front and at the back or below the
yoke. and around the upper part OF the
skirt there will be succession OF pIests
at regular intervals. Then there is . very
good skirt with circular sides that has
proved favorite and is always a le-
coming model II requires 10 be well
made. however. as do all circular
skirts. and the material must be most
carefully and thoroughly sponged ana
pressed, for the circular skirt IL q
tTeacherous thing in so far that II
very easily gets out OF order arounA
the foot, either sags or shrinks, in q
most disappointing fashion after q few
weeks.
Exquisitely Fine Cloth
The most expensive cloths this year
are so exquisite in texture and finish
as 70 Insure their popularity. no mat
ter what color may be chosen. Many
OF them are as soft and have as much
gloss as satin. and at the same time
are not shiny. In the light shades
they look stu more like satin. ana
sre trimmed effectively with braidiue.
velvet or bands OF fur. In the darker
shades the same trimmings are used.
out as rule the lighter cloths
arc the most elaborzteIy trimmed
me use OF velvet IS extremely no.
uceable- In narrow folds. in pipings.
IN applique, in cut work, and in fact.
IN every possible way IN which velvet
can be used, it is employed. 1t is the
same color as the cloth. matching II
exactly; a shade lighter or darker. in
some instances. is in decided contrast
The fad OF The moment. however, is the
one-coIor scheme. with Just the relief
or contrast In some part OF the trim
nlHgs OF the waist or coat.
Extremely graceful are the skirts
N the plain cloth gowns Made long
without exception they follow closely
the lines OF the figure but are very
wide around the foot. In fact. THE
skirts measure an absurd width The
princess and empire styles are to be
notlceo and yet at the same time are
nothing like as common as they were
month age. and are now rather indt-
Gated than asserted, while the neUar.
gowns OF all are much more apt TO be
on the coat and skirt. or rather the
waist and skirt. model But oddly
enough. there is always q wide belt 50
fashioned and fitted as to appear part
OF the skirt, giving quite the effect of
Arizona republican., 1906-06-04
THE ASSASSIN
 SHOT HIMSELF
Manuel Morales Confessed
 Guilt by Suicide
Han Who Threw the Bomb in Madrid Preferred Death to CsptaFe--His Identity Established.

Madrid, June 3.-The capture and suicide Saturday night at Torrejon de Ardos of Manuel Morales, the chief suspect of the bomb outrage against King Alfonso and Queen Victoria. adds another dramatic chapter to the events surrounding the royal wedding.
 Morales was recognized in the little town of Torrejon de Ardos, midway be- tween Madrid and Alcala. 4 guard sought to detain him. but Morales. drawing a revolver. shot the guard dead. Then he turned to flee. but a number of inhabitants of the town were upon him, and, turning the revol- yer on himself, he sent a shot in the region of his heart. expiring a few min utes later. Senor Cuesta, proprietor of the hotel from the balcony of which Morales threw the bomb, viewed the body today and completely identified it as his recent guest.
Arizona republican., 1906-06-04
TRYING TO SHIFT
 VENEZUFLA'S DEBTS
The Latest Financial Scheme of
 President Castro.

New York. June 3.-President Cas- tro's reputation for cunning will be enhanced by the scheme which has just come to light to force the French Cable company and the New York and Bermudez (Asphalt) company to pay half the claims assessed against Vene- zuela by the mixed commission.
 The claims amount to 40,OOO,OOO boil vars-abOut $1O,00O, GOO. One of the problems that Castro left Vice-Presf- dent Gomez to struggle with was that of collecting one-half of these claims. or about 2,000,00O each from the cable company and the asphalt company. Castro proposes to divide the total awards equally among what he calls 'the four parties to the revolution. namely" namely, the Venezuelan gov ernment, the Venezuelan revolution ists, the French Cable company and the New York and Bermudez company.
 The remarkable character of this proposition is shown by the fact that nearly all the claims that Castro asks the cable and asphalt companies to divide with him arose from breaches of contract and similar causes uncon- nected with revolutionary disturbances. The largest allowance was for. a little over S2,OO0,OO0, in favor of a Belgian company, which sold the Caracas wa terworks to the government. but has never been paid. Another claim. aI- lowed to Mexican citizens, grew out of an old Colombian debt assumed by Venezuela as far back as 1884 Of the claims arising from injury to property during revolutions. only 10 per cent were attributable to the Mates revolt.
 A statement given out yesterday by the New York and Bermudez company Tn reference to the attempt to shift Nenezuela's debts to foreign interests in Venezuela, says:
 The impression widely prevails Tn the United States, and has been sedu-