Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1906-10-13
NEW YORK
FASHION
LETTER
What the Fair Danes and
Maids Of Gotham Fancy
for Winter

the manner of its draping for when
the arm is slipped through it, it has
the appearance of a sling; a sling, OF
course, that is very graceful, attrac-
! tive, which though it may suggest
first aid," is so pretty and novel
that 1t promises to be a favorite
with the woman who is looking for
novelties
The description given me by one
of our designers is fetching: "The
sleeve is either plain or folded, cut
circular, put into the arm without
fulness and drawn towards the
under arm and slightly caught up
there to give the sling effect. There
is no under arm seam. The edges
are left apart but Joined by bands
of velvet braid or stitched straps
of the cloth. In length 1t comes be-
low the elbow as all correct sleeves
for this winter should do. The hem
is very open and loose without far
ing II is finished with a band of
velvet or cloth. Usually the edge of
this is trimmed with frills of plated
lace or ribbon or hand embroidery.
This especially kind of trimming is
used great deal on every kind of
sleeve, especially those that have the
French make and finish"
IL this sleeve Is considered too un-
protective for the cold weather, be-
cause of its openness at the back
and the bare wrist, many women
overcome this objection by putting
In fancy colored lining, and IL the
sleeve material is very thin, such as
lace. lingerie, thin silk, etc, two lin
ings are used, the first of some warm
, silk, or wool, or other material over
which Is a fancy lining of colored
silk to harmonize with the gown, and
over this is draped the sling sleeve.
Such sleeves are a relief to an other
wise very plain gown, and they have
the recommendation of being new
and very stylish, which will make IL |
popular for theater and reception
wear.
There has been good deal of dis |
pute over the empire dress and coat, |
but at last the designers have come |
to the conclusion that ii shall stay
with us for this season at least. Ger
tainly, there are notifications that
the ladies of the French court would |
never recognize and probably would |
deem detraction from that classic
mode so much effected by them but
the styles suitable for French
court are not adapted for the rustling
life of the modern American wom-
an, who seldom plays the doll,
whose life is spent in the strenuous
affairs of life and living which keeps
her even more busy than the most ar
dent little diplomat" of those old
days.
Some of the changes are the tight
Hitting lining, which curves at the
waist line like the Princess dress and
really gets its name from the bolero
that hangs loosely about the shoul-
ders and bust. And the newest modi-
hcation is the sling sleeve Just de-
scribed above. For dressy wear In
a carriagd, az reception, the the
ater, OF any place where dignity,
style. and long graceful lines are
needed II Is certainly the dress TO
wear-if-the woman is not too ,
fieshy, the tall woman OF good form,
even the short women II not stout
may wear Il. but hesh-never. ItI
was designed for woman OF the
Diana type, and proportion is its first
requisite.
The coats OF the Empire styles are
certainly very beautiful when made
In some beautiful elinging goods such
AS some OF the heavy close silks.
hat keep their place, while the bo-
Iero is OF heavy fine lace. some OF
which represents small fortunte In
Itself. Then there are the beautiful
" enamelled or jewelled buttons
hat are used. and these cost another
pretty penny. Altogether the dress
'oat Is rather expensive AFFAIR and
= seldom easy 10 make for the dress
maker. indeed coats are even harder
han the dress for the fingers OF the
amateur and nearly always show her
rade mark.
There Is just now great deal Of
ndecision about the most fashion
bile length Of coats. The short coat
nd etons are fayorites with the
naiority OF women aud as they may
q made as warm as you like there
) no reason why they may not be a