davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-24
\: &C., |: go New

PARIS, France. June 10.-TruIy. Of
the making of corsets-if not of books
the end is not yet No matter what
the reformers say, the corset has come
TO stay. q have no intention of playing
on words, s. V. p.D
Two days with the chief corset MAX
.ers OF Paris convince me that the mod
ern corset is not the instrument of tor
ture and deformity which some reform
ers would make US believe.
! As well protest against birds wearing
feathers because some Of the quills are
stif as taboo corsets on account of the
whalebone in them.
- NJ. Leoty, artist-corsetier, whose ideal
is the Victory Of Samothrace, when he
Is not inspired by some equally beau
tiful modern woman, assures me that
stays Of an appreciabIe thickness and
width are more comfortable than too
slender stays. which are liable TO break
and deform the line, when they do not
risk inJuring the garments or body. The
position Of the stays is important
- A certain knowledge Of anatomy and
physiology is requisite. TO make any
garment OF great beauty or utility. as
well as TO know how to adjust and wear
IL 10 advantage. A woman of correct
poise, who moves with grace, is easier
ftted than one who is careless or awk-
ward. Great humanitarians insist that
ug1iness is Ignorance.
-L6clnB ls 1oFm Oh torture iell AoI
museums or musty books The intelli-
gent woman knows its woeful pitfalls
for beauty.
= So entirely in the trend of science are
the.rnodern corset makers that the doc
tor has become their ally. the rules OF
ethics binding them 20 sympathy and
discretion
Nine. GuilIot, whose invention Of the
stfsight-fpont corset has transformed
rsodern dress, has come 10 the relief Of
Fany g specialist. though she would
not state Il Just that way. Her apart
fnents resemble more salon than the
once OF a s'negociant" There, from 3
70 z o'clock in the afternoon, may be
besn net only the beauty and fashion OF
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-24
TARTAN Taffetas
Sunshade

can be either exceedingly elaborate or
very simple in outline.
Embroidered batiste parasols with
lace medallions and ruffies of lace or
embroidery are exceedingly smart and
are made up both over colored, white or
self shade Innings. The pale pink lin
ings are the most becoming; the others
are. however. very charming. The all
white parasoIs are delightfully."- dainty
and are a mass of lace or embroid-
cred rufies. One attractive style is
made entirely of ruffies or lace over
tapping each other. Embroidered ruff
hes and embroidered parasols are so
exactly on the lines of the lingerie
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-24
: TaezaAas - to - Foes rs,

The corset subject is well nigh in
exhaustible. as the corset in some form
is almost universal. the most radical
as well as conservative reformers con-
Tossing It's esthetic raison d'etre:
hence the countless variations made by
those ever in quest OF the ideal dress.
Four characteristics forms by Nine.
Celine Dulien are constructed on such
fine principles that the normal woman
might choose one at random, while for
the overstout woman she shows a cor
set not yet patented. but which will be
boon when introduced.
How many more there are, Did any
one ever hear of strike among corset
makers? They have not time TO strike.
The famous couturiers must either as
sociate corset-makers with their estab-
lishments or create their own special
ties
Nine MuIot has special ideas for her
wonderful robes. The cloth is straight
or bias, and she has invented a simple
corset. made sur III drott." OF SILK cord.
unlined, with possibilities one must
see, as she varies IL 20 suit the indi-
vidual. adding or leaving of an ad-
mirable "soutien-g gorge"
Then there is the girdle, extending
over hips and abdomen. and meeting
the "soutien-gorge" in the back. but
leaving the front from the point OF the
diaphragm to the waistline-the dys-
peptic's corset; the corset for gaseous
stomachs-
But there are limits to details
These few suggestions should help to
convince the reformers that the master
corset-makers of Paris are themselves
reformers, in love with their art, to be
sure but seeking the IDEAL
Ask one in conscience which is the
ideal corset for figureless. beautyless
woman; shall / tell you his, answer?
"Damet There's no such person.
Embroidery. lace, jewels. decorations
may bring the corset to any price. but
for 1907. a famous maker will sign a
corset In which any normal woman may
be comfortable. and on which she may
construct an elegant and evan aiskin-
gufshed appearance
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-24

>: PARIS. France. June 10. - Surely
there never was known such variety
OF material color and shape as are to
be seen in this seasons parasols. Silk,
satin, pongee batiste. lace and linen in
every. possible or impossible shade of
color are made up in severely simple
and. most elaborate designs A law of
fashion this season commands that the
parasol play an all important part in
the detail of a smart costume either
matching in material and color or
forming an effective contrast as re-
CARDS color. UnquestionabIy this is an
attractive fashion. and it is astonish-
ing how parasol and hat of some
bright color will transform a rather
oOwdy costume into an effective and
becoming one. A bright red, green.
pink or blue. with hat of the same col
or, can be worn with a white, black or
any pale shade. and the contrast is
good, while if the parasol match the
color OF the gown it gives the charm
ing finish so characteristic of this
years fashions.
The embroidered parasoIs are the
novelties OF this season. and both in
silk and linen are in great demand. The
fashion is to have these parasols match
exactly the color of the gown, and If
there be embroidery on the gown the
same design must be repeated on the
parasol Then the monogram or ini-
fials give an individual and distinctive
touch that is very sweet and attrac-
tive White embroidery or a lighter
shade than the material is in favor
also, and as for the pattern chosen, it
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-24
Carved in Crystal
with Cold Sticks

hats that it would seem as though the
same idea had originated both Worn
at the same time with the costume to
which they are adapted, they certainly
seem most charmingly attractive and
suitable
AS usual. there are new fashions to
be seen in the handles for the new
parasols. With luxury and extrava-
gance so rampant in everything per-
tanning to dress as they are at the
present moment. so lucrative field as
that covered by parasol handles could
not be easily ignored. The handles
that can be folded and easily packed
in consequence are extremely popular,
for long handles are much smarter than
short ones and in this way are every
bit as practicable. Carved wood. am
ber. tortoise shell. ivory and jeweled
handles of all kinds are extremely
fashionable, and many odd effects in
enamel are to be seen. Birds, fruits
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-24

Paris. but beautiful women from all
over the world. Her specialties alone
would make a long story.
Just now Nine. Guillot DEGREES a
slight detection in front, which. ever
so slight, defects the skirt the least
bit away from the instep, improving
not only the lines but the "tailie" and
the walk and the general effect.
Her knitted combinations are too
well known to require description. Ev-
cry famous corsetmaker. besides a per-
sonal speciality. shows the influence of
Nine Guillot's knitted corsets.
Maria Line has had great success
with her combination corset and skirt.
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-24

Even in the Empire dress fashion ex-
acts that the line be we'll defined and
suggested. and this is impossible with
out a perfect corset and irreproach-
able underwear.
'Au Corset Merveilleux" Nine Baehr
showed me wonderful corsets indeed
expansible and elastic. yielding to a
breath, while duly maintaining the
form. One. which is not vet patented.
may transform the corset and do away
with every vestige of objection-that Is,
If those who have forgotten will learn
again to breathe. stand. sit and walk
correctly. as well as how to put on a
corset
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-24

ing corsets are made. from the simplest
''soutien- gorge" to gold and bejeweled
wonders-personal secrets more or less
guarded. for the corsetmaker like the
doctor, may tell no tales. A jeweler
told me of marvel of precious stones
he helped to make which cost $4,000
francs. You may verify the story in
the Rue de la Paix.
Between these dreams of ease and
beauty and the corset of commerce the
reformer need not yet while be idle.
What woman would not rather have
this most characteristic garment mold5
ed and designed for herself alone? And
who would accuse her Of extravagance?
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-24

laced together, made of pure white kid
and trimmed with lace and silk, which
may be taken apart or worn together
Indeed, combination corset trousers or
skirt seems the order of the day.
Nine. Lucie Dupont showed me
among other interesting creations, an
especially charming effect-a taffeta
silk corset and skirt together-made
for the Marseilles Exposition, to be
worn together or apart
Leoty recommends the making of COR
set and skirt apart, but of similar ma
terial, so that, attired In them, together
with a harmonious matinee, lady in
her boudoir will still be dressed. One
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-24

of his creations. in white moire, lined
with rose. corset and skirt to match, is
ideally lovely. Though he recommends
the corset to be worn over the skirt
which, however, may be attached to the
very edge of the corset-there are sIits
in the skirt through which to pass the
garters, and In neatness and comfort
attach them to the stockings. His
equestrian corset deserves description.
and his maternity corset leaves nothing
to be desired for beauty and ease.
When necessary the master corset
makers create a corset for the individ-
ual. Actresses have original ideas and
special needs, and In this line astound-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-07


King had stopped his meal and sat with
sidelong head, his wine-cup in his hand,
listening attentively when some sound
like the chatter of hoofs was heard from
outside but the third time there could
be no mistake. The tramp and Jingle
of the horses broke loud upon the ear,
and ended in hoarse voices calling out
OF the darkness, who were answered by the
archers posted as sentries without the
door
Some Traveller has indeed arrived. my
lege said Nigel. What is your royal
will"
1T can be but Ayrnery," the King
answered, for it was only to him that |
left the message that he should follow
me hither. Bid him come in, pray you,
and make him very welcome at your
board
Nigel cast open the door, pucking a
torch from its bracket as he did so.
Half a dozen men-at-arms sat on their
horses outside, but one had dismounted,
a short, squat, swarthy man with a rat
face and quick, restless brown eyes
which peered eagerly past Nigel into the
red glare of the well-lit hall
Il am Sir Aymery of Pavia," he whis-
pered. For Gods sake, tell me! is the
King within?"
He is at table, fair Sir and he bids
you to enter"
One moment, young man, one mo-
ment, and a secret word in your ear.
Wot you why it is that the King has
sent for me?"
Nigel read terror in the dark cunning
eyes which glanced in sidelong fashion
into his. Nay. | know not"
| would knew would [ was sure
ere l sought his presence"
You have but to cross the threshold,
fair sir, and doubtless you will learn from
the Kings own lips"
Sir Aymery seemed to gather himself
as one who braces for a spring into ice
cold water. Then he crossed with quick
stride from the darkness into the light
The King stood up and held out his hand
with a smile upon his long handsome
face, and yet it seemed to the Italian
that it was the lips which smiled but not
the eyes.
Welcomed" cried Edward "We1-
come to our worthy and faithful SEN
eschal of Calais Come, sit here before
me at the board, for l have sent for you
that | may hear your news from over the
sea, and thank you for the care that you
have taken of that which is as dear to
me as wife or child. Set a place for Sir
Aymery there, and give him food and
drink, for he has ridden fast and far in
our service to-day"
Throughout the long feast which the
skill of the Lady Ermyntrude had ar
ranged, Edward chatted lightly with the
Italian as well as with the barons near
him. Finally, when the last dish was
removed and the gravy-soaked rounds
of coarse bread which served as plates
had been cast to the dogs, the wine
flagons were passed round, and old Wes-
thercote the minstrel entered timidly
with his harp in the hope that he might
be allowed to play before the Kings
majesty. But Edward had other sport
afoOt.
Il pray you Nigel to send out the
servants, so that we may be alone. [
would have two men-at-arrnS at every
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-07

DdTTdSSeu lace IIldC HIS poverty HuLS
heavily upon him. Nay said he
kindly such a workman is surely worthy
OF better tools
And it is for his master to see that he
has them, added the King. The court
armorer will look to it that the next time
your helmet is carried away, Nigel, your
head shall be inside it
Nigel red to the roots of his faxen hair,
stammered out some words of thanks.
John Chandos, however, had a fresh
suggestion, and he cooked a roguish
eye as he made it; Surely, my liege,
your bounty is little needed in this case.
1t is the ancient law of arms that if two
cavaliers start to Joust, and one either
by maladdress or misadventure fail to
meet the shock, then his arms become
the property of him who still holds the
lists. This being so, methinks, Sir HUI
bert de Burgh, that the fine hauberl of
Milan and the helmet of Bordeaux steel
in which you rode to Tilford should re-
main with our young host as some small
remembrance of your visit"
The suggestion raised a general chorus
of approval and laughter in which ali
Joined, save only Sir Hubert himself,
who, flushed with anger, fixed his bale
full eyes upon Chandos' misChievous and
smiling face.
L said that did not play that foolish
game, and l know nothing of it's laws, "
said he; but you know we'll John, that
if you would have a bout with sharpened
spear or sword, where two ride to the
ground, and only one away from it, you
have not far to go to find it"
Nay, nay, would you ride to the
ground? Surely you had best walk
Hubert" said Chandos. "On your feet
| know well that | should not see YOUR
back as we have seen it to-day. Say
what you will, your horse has played you
false, and l claim your suit of harness
for Nigel Loring"
Your tongue is overlong, John, and
am weary of its endless clack!" said Sir
Hubert, his yellow mustache bristling
from a scarlet face. If you claim my
harness, do you yourself come and take
it. If there is a moon in the sky you
may try this very night when the board
is cleared
Nay, fair sirs, cried the King srlil-
ing from one to the other, " this matter
must be followed no further. Do you
fill bumper of Gascony, John, and you
also, Hubert. Now pledge each other, l
pray you, as good and loyal comrades
who would scorn to fight save in your
Kings quarrel. We can spare neither of
you while there is so much work for
brave hearts over the sea. AS to this
matter of the harness, John Chandos
speaks truly where it concerns a joust in
the lists, but we hold that such law is
scarce binding in this, which was but a
wayside passage and a gentle trial of arms.
On the other hand, in the case of your
Squire, Master Nanny. there can be no
doubt that his suit is forfeit"
1T is grievous hearing for him, my
liege," said Walter Nanny; for he is a
poor man and hath been at sore pains
to fit himself for the wars Yet what
YOU say shall be done, fair sire So, if you
will come to me in the morning Squire
Loring, John Widdicomb's suit will be
handed over to you"
Then with the Kings leave, I will
hand it back to him. said Nigel, troubled
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-07
DE LUXE ODD VOLUME SALE
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Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-07
How 81 Can Be Safely
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Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-07


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This being an odd lot sale. we have
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Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-07
The De Luxe Volumes Are

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A TNNXTE ~
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-11-16
Germany Foreign Relations.

The debate which took place in the
Reichstag on November IL is of interest
to the world because of the reassuring
reply made by the Imperial Chancellor.
Prince 20 BUEJow, to Herr BAssER-
MANN, a National Liberal member, who
had asserted that Germany o occupies
an isolated position, possessing no firm
friends anywhere. not even being able
to rely any longer on Italy or Austria.
The representative Of the Emperor re-
viewed his cOuntry's relations with all Of
the great Powers, and pronounced them
highly satisfactory in every particular.
There is no doubt that since the resig-
nation of NJ. DELCAssE from the French
Foreign Office and the return of the
Liberals TO power on the northern side
Of the Channel a remarkable change has
taken place in the relations Of Germany
to France on the one hand and to Britain
on the other. The entente cordiGIe es-
tablished between the two Powers last
named, coupled with their agreement in
regard TO Morocco, to which Spain be-
came a party, and with the renewal OF
commercial intercourse between France
and Italy, seemed to promise a marked
increase Of material and moral strength
to the Frnnco-R Russian League, and u
corresponding impairment Of Germany's
influence. That the u~neasiness excited
in Berlin by that state Of things has not
vet wholly died away is evident from
the question put by Herr BAssamMtyN.
but there really seems 10 be no lunyor
any cause for it.. In view Of tine conyo-
cat on and outcome Of the Algcciros
Conference, we may take for granted
that hereafter the German Cove nment
will be consulted before any attempt il
made to settle matters Of International
interest connected W tn the Mediterran-
ean OF the Near East. That Germany
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-11-16
The Burlington Magazine for November.

The November Burlington, published nv
Robert Grier Cooke, Inc, opens with a pho
togTavure frontispiece Illustrating a charm
ing drawing Of an unknown girl, attributed
10 the painter LEY. This forms part Of "A
series OF plates which embellish an article Of
much interest on Some Drawings Of En- glish-
women from Van Dyck to Kneller." by Mr..
Laurence Binyon OF the British Museum.
Mr.. L.. Weaver. F.. s. A., follows with a
description Of the loaded spires by Sir Chris-
TOPPER Wren. which should prove a snecinI
attraction to all lovers OF English RestoTn-
ton architecture. Mr.. NJ. T.. Scion, the wpII
known authority on ceramics. writes an illu-
minsting description Of the famous saint
Cloud porcelain IN The collection Of the Comte
4. de ChaVaknac. and Mr.. Herber Cook.
Nj. A.. +. 5. A.. contributes notes on the study
OF Titan. which contribution forms 40 IN
disnensable addition to our knowledge of the
subject. The admirable article by Mr.. sgd
ney Churchill. British Consul a. Palermo.
on Giovanni Bartolo OF Siens, goldsmith apd
cnameiler, and Mr.. Peartree's review ar4icl.
on the historical exhibition lately Organized
o. Nuremburg. are OF much worth. whiIe
American collectors win he greatly inter-
ested in the fine collotype reproduction of A
splendid portrait by Murillo. and also a cor.
tinuntion OF the interesting discussion on
soma plct ures In the collection Of Mr.. Johu
G. johnson OF Philadelphia. The editorial
articles deal with the housing Of natioppr
collections and the encouragement Of art in
the provinces. which win prove equaIit
suggestive TO American readers and to tn
directors OF MUSEUMS aud picturs galleries
in America.