Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16

ohS pat VI d pdlltIH OlHeTWlSe tnan as 0ls
rected.
How 20 Cut Lining
Each portion must be laid the right grain
of the goods or the result will be botch,
The Innings should be cut double LAYING
the pattern on with the perforations exact
Nv on the straight of the thread, and a
GOD plan, when each piece is in place is
TO lay the yardstick down the row of per-,
forations and then draw a thick line
through. These will be much easier seem
than the tiny holes. The bust forms made
to order exactly like ones figure are un-
doubleday great aid in fitting, but. II the
cost is too great the same thing may be-
made at home IL one is willing to give the
necessary time and trouble. 4
A Jersey waist form smaller than the
buyers bust measure should be bought.
ana strong unbleached muslin, about two,
and one-half yards. well as a pattern OF!
a fitted waist, preferably that cut with
seams from the shoulders. Lay the pat
tern on the muslin, hold down with weights,
stick the points of pins through material
and pattern at their edges, not putting the,
whole of the pin through, as each one takesI
UP tiny scrap with the result that when
fitted on the waist is entirely too large every
way.
Having cut, haste the different parts to-
gether, and, with the assistance of a sec>I
ond person, try on. Close the front edges,
making any alterations at the underarm
seams and those coming from the shoul-,,
ders to waist line. Pass a tape around the
waist and mark with chalk or pin at lower
edge Of tape, which make permanent with.
colored thread later on. The waist should
now be drawn up smoothly to the shoul,l
ders and the seams there pinned securely.s
Notch neck and armhole, but do not cutj
out. Stitch seams bone and press, thenl
place on the form, pinning the fronts tor
gether for few inches upward from the
waist line and downward from the neclHx
and proceed to pad with cotton. Do this a.
little at a time, closing an inch or two at
front edges the work until thu
fit is smooth. even and firm.
First Fitting Must Be Carefully Done.
Any person who will take this trouble
will certainly be amply repaid, as much
time will be saved at future fittings, while!
the difficulties of trimming will be decided.
ly reduced. The pattern bought should be ,
long below the waist line, so as to entirelyl
cover the form. then stitch together. Rum
strong basting thread around neck and arm
holes, just inside the notches, and provide
a collar in stiff canvas, double, tailor stitch
ed together, the edges unfinished and the
lower one caught lightly down to the waist.
Be careful to lay the pattern Of the collar,
on the goods correctly or 1t will surely GO
awry. The sleeve should be made separate
ly. fitted to the arm, then gathered at tho
armhole exactly as 1t should be when COM
plete. A faring Swapping about an inch
wide should be sewn to the top, just bast-,
Ing drmly-strong sewing may possibly
change the shape Of the sleeve. This strip
Is ZOE pinning on 10 the waist form, when
one wishes to see the effect Of sleeve and
waist before stitching in. Some use a stun,
ing of cotton for the sleeve, though person.
ally like tissue paper best. as the arm can,
then be- bent in different directions, which
will show at once whether the waist pulls
at all or the sleeve turns wrinkles. Eld
Every amateur dressmaker knows the,
difficulties Of sleeve fitting, and the same
may be said OF the collar. Too much ats
tention cannot be paid to the details Of
these parts IL one would attain good re-.
suits. For drapery or trimming sleeves the
padded lining should be pinned to the waist
form. and in the case Of very elaborate arr
rangements It is not a bad plan to have two
sleeves SO padded.