Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1906-01-18
new YORK FASHION LETTER
Separate Waists and Separate skirts
Points about Furs, Gloves and
Ties.

New York, Jan. 13.-Not only is 1t con-
sidered the correct thing to have num-
Der of separate waists. but separate
skirts TO be worn with the fur Jacket or
its substitute is the fashion. 1t is the
fad to have one jacket-preferably of
fur-to wear with these different skirts,
yet among them there should be one
that will match the Jacket, giving the
effect of n whole suit. and the others
should be of some tremendously contrast
ing goods. 1t is an easy matter to do
this If the Jacket be of black fur. of
which black caracul seems to be the
favorite; but when other colors are worn
some care must be exercised. With the
caracul, in black, could be worn a black
velvet skirt of circular cut for dressy
wear, and one of black cheviot for morn
inss. In combination with the separate
jacket fine plaid skirts are much liked
and one of blue and green mixture would
be pretty with a dash OF red showing in
it. For rainy days grey tweed could
be used and 1t Is fad now to relieve all
sombreness of all greys by n dash OF
color.
great variety to these costumes can
be made by the wearing of different ac-
cessories-a lace collar and vest showing
inside the fur jacket when the black vel
vet skirt is worn. a bright silk waist
when the grey tweed is worn, a white
lingerie waist over a colored underslip
with the plaid or cheviot skirt. Then tho
haf &c v1a 4
collars will give the effect of very
varied wardrobe.
Grey squirrel is a MUCH liked fur, but
Is difficult for many women to wear. and
many are the devices resorted to over
come its unbecomingness. One girl placed
inside of her stole a frill of black chiffon
which brought out the beauty of her clear
complexion, which the grey squirrel had
the most deadening effect upon. Another
girl-a blonde-used creamy white lace.
But squirrel can be dyed SO remarkably
WELL that any coats in this fur are COM
Ing out in sable brown. A coat of this
description worn with brown skirt with
blouse of brown and green checked silk
brown hat. shoes and stockings would be
a decidedly chic affair. Just Il word of
warning here--do not bring black in con-
trast with your brown suit, for it will
Immediately absorb that CLEAN of hidden
sunshine which brown seems always to
harbor.
OF the models most to be used in these
separate skirts the plated and circular
styles are as much in vogue as ever, while
the tunic and princess modes are better
adapted for full costumes and house
gowns. In lengths personal liking has
full sway as fashion allows all lengths
from the skirts that touch all round to
those that clear the ground by four
inches: but remember that in skating
one is lifted an inch or two from the ice
The only safe rule to use is to cut the
skirt according to the use it is to serve
Some of the new models in skirts are
rcviving the many gored style. AS many
as IA cores are seen and even more If a
great flare is desired. For skating or any
outdoor affair corduroy or cotton velvet
is now quite zen regle." but of the two
corduroy is the more serviceable as vel
vet spots so easily
On plaid skirts stitched bands Of plain
cloth are much liked, indeed the stitched
bands are again coming in and for the
short or stout figure they are liked for
the apparent height they give. On more
elaborate skirts fiat bands of embroidered
velvet and silk braids are often seen. A
fad which is a great help in economy is
theh combining of two or three shades
in the one costume, n fashion that will
appeal to the home-dressmaker when an
old dress or odd lengths must be used up
year, they are extremely difficult to get
is to
and in everything over elaboration and
conspicuous effects are noticeable
For the woman who must 20 out on nil
occasions. some attention must be given
the rainy day" costume The day Is
past when any old gown could do service
at this time; it is hard enough for the
average woman to look well dressed on
"A wet day with the best of care, let
alone wearing some old dress that has
on-fastJln shrdlu hr cmfwyp mfwypp
been worn to it's last threads. The rainy
day costume must be up to date and like
a sunny face drive away all damp bed
raggled impressions that come with such
weather.
The prime favorite in skirts for wet
weather is the plated model. closely fol-
lowed by the circular and new gored
models. or course it goes without saw
ing that the skirts must be short Though
some women have them just clear the
ground, the general fancy is to have no
fear of damp skirts and With rubbers
there is great saving OF shoe leather:
for there is nothing that destroys a shoe
30 quickly as being rubbed by wet
gritty skirt braid. A taffeta or brillian-
tine waist is much more appropriate for
wear on rainy days than one of lingerie
or any goods to which dampness is "A
foe. Nothing gives woman a more beg
raggled appearance than limp linen or
lingerie waist out of which all freshness
has vanished.
given. 1t is good idea to wear a stiff
puNue stock or collar with a bright tie or
plaid four-in-hand. 1t will perhaps give
just the touch of color that will make
you pleasant to look at on the cherries
day.
The hat should be a small affair minus
feathers and flowers, but beconSngly
trimmed with ribhons--no null or chiffon
and quilts. Let the gloves be of fair
mcnded
Shall one wear long or short Jacket
to match the skirt? Many women like
the long or ulster coat while others aver
it is too warm and prefer short coat OF
material like the skirt. If the skirt or
suit beneath is of light cloth, the long
ulster is the preferable garment: but if
he skirt and waist nre heavy In u,o;obt