The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-12-30
HAIR DRESSED MORE SIMPLY.
ARTISTIC AND NATURAL LINES
CONFINED.
SOFT. FUZZY Puns and Coils which Are Gen.
orally Becoming Feather Ornamental
Preferred. Especially the Paradise
PIume-Use Of Flowers and Wreaths.

the average woman a becoming cOluur
NAV work miracles for a face, and individu-
atty which does not spell "eccentricity"
should be considered before fashion in
matters pertaining to the couture.
What is supremely becoming in coiffure
Is supremely correct, but a majority OF
womankind quite fails to grasp this truth
and fortunes its hair into some supposedly
stylish fuise without the slightest regard
for this accepted modes relation to the face
and the figure.
Luckily extremes in hairdre sing soon
pass, as do all extremes in fashions ealm
The extrsvagant pompadour has gone the
Nv of all monstrosities, and the tendency
IN truly modish coifures now Ia toward
a skilfully artistic n~aturalness. II the
hair is waved with irons. the waves are
big and loose and fluffy.
New York women are still prone to drag
the hair very high on the head, but the chic
Partisan has adopted a % silhouette.
Her hair Is drawn in soft, fluffy fashion
hack to the crown Of the head and massed
there in loose pufs and coils supplemented,
when necessary, by artificial means.
the one tins popular Psych, o was
posed at this same angle, but stood out
from the head in trying lines, while the
knots and curls Of to-day nestle closely
against the head, melting into the loose
waves Of hair drawn back from the face
and up from the nape Of the neck.
Cleverly arranged, this couture Is al
most universally becoming, but II moving
it a few inches higher or lower brings 1t
into better harmony with the profile, then
it should by all means be moved.
The same rule Of individuality which ap-
plies TO the couture itself applies to coinure
ornaments. There are women who look
better without any touch of color above
their faces and women whose hair is at its
best when its lines are not broken by any
ornament; but the variety smong couture
Is now so great that almost any
woman may find something eminently be-
coming TO her il she but has the wisdom
70 choose the right thing.
Leaving the jewelled tiara, which Is al
ways in order for full dress and seldom
extremely becoming. the feather couture
ornaments a precedence this season
among the hyperfashionable. 1t Is not
easy to adjust them becomingly, and they
are not 80 appropriate and becoming to
the debutante as are flowers; but the mod
ish young matron chooses a feather orna-
ment and adjusts her hair TO suit this
ornament.
In Paris the mode, as 10 usual with Pan-
sian modes, has been carried TO greater
lengths than will probably be seen here,
and some Of the evening coiffures seen at
smart social functions in the city by the
Seine are wildly bizarre; but the designs ex-
plotted for the American trade are more
conservative.
The paradise plume 10 as popular in
couture decoration as in millinery, and this
soft, sweeping feather is more easily adj
justed in the hair than are the little ostrich
tips which rival the paradise feathers in
general popularity.
Sohnstimes the paradise feather Ii held by
jewelled ornament. Sometimes 1t starts
from Q knot OF tulle which finishes one end
Of a little coronet wreath Of twisted tulle.
One attractive design in white and silver
shows two little mercury wings OF net al
most entirely covered with cleaning sill
yer paillettes, and a white paradise plume
springing from between the little wings.
Similar are offered in black
and gold, white and gold and delicate colors,
and one sees, too, knots OF velvet either
in chou or bowknot form, embroidered in
paillettes and holding paradise plumes.
The paradise feather is combined, too,
with artificial flowers, but Is hardly so chic
IN this combination as when associated with
velvet or tulle.
A single outstanding ostrich tip Is possible
only with a high couture and Is somewhat
difficult Of adjustment even then, having
a decided stiffness instead Of the dropping
grace Of the paradise plume. Skilfully
posed in just the right couture and above
the right face, il has, however, a certain
piquant smartness, and one often finds
such a feather combined with marabou,
which softens It's lines.
Two ostrich tips, one outstanding and the
other curling downward in its upper half
are usually more becoming than the single
feather, the downward curling feather
softening the harsh angle against the hair.
Some of the prettiest ostrich feather orna-
ments this season are tipped with gold or
silver at the feather ends.
The full straight aigret Is much worn
IN Paris-not the fine small aigret for
many seasons past used in association
with knots Of velvet or tulle or with jewelled
ornaments, but such a big aggressive
sigret az has appeared upon many a
modish hat this winter. The Partisan
is likely, too, 10 adjust this aigret in her
hair at some such rakish angle as is fancied
for the aigret OF millinery, but this idea
is a triHe too aggressive for New York's
more conservative women.
Next to the jewel and feather ornaments
the Partisan most favors a single large
rose or a cluster Of smaller flowers, but
coronets and full wreaths Of leaves nave
a decided vogue and are certainly among
the prettiest and most becoming Of the
hair ornaments shown here.
A wreath OF simple green leaves pointed
10 shape and arranged in NapoleoniC
fashion with the points meeting at the
centre front is an unpretentious affair
but has charming possibilities in a~ssocia-
ton with the right couture, and this same
design appears in all the metallic effects,
gold, silver and all the delicate colors shot
with silver. Some of these last mentioned
color schemes are really delightful fol-
wear with frocks of corresponding color
Occasionally a French leaf wreath Of THU
type will nave at the back a large fiat bow
OF velvet ribbon. carrying still further the