The Washington times., 1906-04-15

AnOlner way 70 make the straps upon
the jacket is 20 cut them OF pieces OF
the material and trim them with rows or
scutache braid. a fashionable tailor also
suggests that a narrow strip Of silk may
be inserted in the wide ends of the
straps, decorated with a braided design
The pattern admits Of many styles of
trimming with different widths and va
rieties of braids.
The little jacket in figure 3 has loose.
square fronts and a partly fitted back.
IL is an outing jacket with two pockets
on each side the front. the upper ones
larger than the lower. and with buttoned
laps The material Is A blurred gray
plaid Of Scotch tweed trimmed with
black braid. Wide braid extends up each
side the back. passes over the shoulders
and down the sides Of the fronts. under
The pocket Flaps and over the cenrers OF
the pockets. This braid which is over
an inch in width. turns around at the
bottom Of the back and edges it, The
edges Of the coat are loose. as a slit oc-
ours for a few inches in the bottom OF
each seam Braid straps conceal the few
seams in this simple jacket, which closes
IN front and reaches 10 the hips. A
small round coat collar with IapeIs I'm
ishes the neck
The sleeves may be either three
quarter or regular coat length. In this
case the sleeves are long, made like A
! loose coat sleeve, with three braid
straps around the bottom. by way Of
cuff. trimmed with button in the back
Of each.
Figure c shows a charming little
jacket in a thin weight Of cloth in a
soft shade Of mauve-gray- II is very
short. and is cut in three pieces. two
fronts and a back. The bottoms of the
fronts form scallops. and two plests
on the shoulder are caught to the lining
underneath with invisible stitches
The outer pleat is fastened again 10
the outer edge OF the bottom scallOp.
This rests upon panne satin. which
! forms a narrow vest and shows below
the front scallops of the coat 10 its
side The small coat collar rests upon
a fold of the same satin The vest is
| embroidered and large buttonholes are
worked on each front with silk The
back is straight across. but the cloth
is curved up each side in half scalloF
at the bottom. resting upon inserted
piece Of satin between A dart begins
at the bottom. like pointed pleat OF
each side this satin piece, and extends
half way up the back. The top OF this
inserted satin piece in the back 4.
shaped like a scallop at the top and
stitched to the coat.
Sleeves of three-quarter length ar,
gathered full to the shoulder and pleat
ed at the bottom to satin cuff :
strip is cut in the bottom of the sleeve
and shaped in a rounded tab. Thil
forms the outer part of a box plea
effect. which is stitched upon the cuff
Dark blue is one of the new smar
colors for spring. and serge. one Of th'
revived materials which are particular
ly in vogue at present
Figure D shows a coat made Of darl
blue serge-not the very deep blue sort
but not of the light variety. IL is
short bolero in one Of the most fashion
able Of the new styles
Two braids border the neck, narrow
ing where the neck comes to curved
point in front and meeting near the bot
tom. where the fronts are again curved
Here the braid turns up. forming sor
of curved horn with sharp point From
this point il curves toward the back
covering the point of another piece OF
braid that begins at the bottom OF ths
side and edges the back. This braid
turns up each side the back and curves
toward the underarm in horn shape
AT the top OF the neck the braid is sep
arated in two similar smaller curved
points.
Sleeves OF three-ouarter length are
gathered to the armhole and beneath
the cuff. This has a round back. In
which a point OF braid curves from the
braid border which finishes the cuff- The
kind of braid used has rough. raised
surface CT fancy weave Tassels are
sewed on the fronts
A great deal of white serge is being
made up for spring and summer wear
A smart serge coat is illustrated in
figure f. It Is trimmed with white
braid OF fancy weave and straight edg-
es. The point and the neck and edges
of the coat are bordered with three
rows of wide braid arranged to form d
Grecian border. The braids are set q
fourth of an inch apart and two rows
trim the cuff, which is rather large
turned ND and open at the top in the
back Below the neck in the back the
braids InIerlace. forming square
topped pyramid. with three braid steps