The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1906-05-17
THE FASHIONS.

correct. The waist is high and APP
untramelled, whether the gown
be princess or not.
The most popular gown is made of
soft silk, yelling, chiffon, cloth, lace,
and other fine materials, Tailored and
semi-tailored gowns in rajah pongee,
and the new mohairs will be most in
evidence in the parade. The mohairs,
by the way, are extremely attractive.
They have the lustre of silk, and are
far from being the stiff, unwieldy IA
brics they once were. Some very hand
some mohair skirt and coat suits as
we'll as Princess gowns were seen this
week. Some of these gowns were made
with short skirts, but it is mournful to
be obliged to chronicle the fact that the
short skirt seems to be passing. Many
quite severely tailored .street-gowns are
made with skirts that sweep. Practi-
cally all gowns not meant exclusively
for outdoor wear are long. The trained
skirt never really goes out. After all,
there is something fascinating about
trailing draperies, and one would be
sorry to see the short skirt prevail.
Still it is the only sensible thing for
walking.
The lovelest creations in thin stuffs
are to be seen. Everything is Princess
or Empire when it comes to gowns.
The girdled waist is rarity. A model,
with variation Of course, most fire.
quently seen is the Princess cut out in
the neck to show a handsome guimpe
of late or hand embroidered batistic.
Tucks, shocking, or shirrings shape the
gowns at the waist line and over the
hips and the full skirt is trimmed with
lace, needlework, and embroidery Few
skirts are untrimmed, and there is a
tendency towards double and triple
skirts, with tunic effects
A lovely yelling gown in the fashion
able Queens gray was fitted at the
waist line with small, fiat tucks, which
extended far down the pointed drapery
of the skirt. This drapery resembled
the old-fashioned over skirt, and was
outlined all around by two folds of the
yelling wide tucl1s. The skirt beneath
was very wide, and was trimmed with
many rows of gray satin, arranged
some inches apart. The waist part was
trimmed with satin folds and white
Irish lace There was a guimpse of the
lace, a collar Of the same, and sleeves
almost composed Of the lace, and
double rows Of satin folds, slightly
fulled.
A pastel blue yelling was a marvel
of ingenious needlework. The entire
gown was apparently handmade and
put together with fancy silk stitches 1t
was a Princess Of course and was
tight-fitting nowhere. The waist and
hips were swathed delicately with the
material while the upper half of the
waist and lower half Of the skirt were
a mass Of needlework and fine white
lace The waist was cut square at the
neck, not low, but low enough to show
two inches of the wearer's throat. The
decollete was bordered with an inch
wide band Of Valenclennes lace, shirred
very slightly, and edged with row of
fancy stitching in blue silk. The
Shirred lace and silk stitches formed a
deep yoke and extended in pointed
design down the front and back of the
waist almost to the high waist line. In
triangle Of the lace design set an APP
plication Of Irish crochet. The sleeves
were mostly lace. The same kind of a
decoration, Valenciennes, needlework
and insets of Irish crochet, trimmed the
skirt about the height of the knees.
A favorite skirt decoration is that Of
applied bands to simulate wide tucks.
These often give the appearance of a
triple skirt, and are very well suited
to tall women, "A graceful gown of
figured blue wolfe had a corselet skirt
perfectly tight over the waist and hips,
made with hem ten inches deep
Above the hem at short distance was
a six-inch fold, and above this a mar
rover one. The waist was a skeleton
blouse worn over a cream lace and en-
broidered batiste waist.
Gray crepe de chine was the founda-
ton of a simple but exceedingly effec-
tive house dress, Yards of material
were used the fullness of the skirt
seeming to be phenomenal. The skirt
was trimmed above the hem almost to
the knees with inch-wide folds simu-
lating tucks. These were set close to-
gether and gave the skirt body at the
foot. The corselet was draped in full
folds, and the waist above was trim
med with tucks and APPLICATIONS of gray
lace. The guimpse was Of Valencien-
mes.
Another tucked gown was in a soft
shade of maize yellow crepe de chine
The gown was Princess and was
tucked or rather, laid in folds from a
point Immediately below the line of the
bust to the hips, making high corse-
let Of folds. Below, the circular skirt
fell in ample folds "A group of three
wide tucks appeared at the knees and
on either side was inset a row of vel
low lace medallions. Similar insebs OF
yellow lace trimmed the waist, which
had a fancy shaped tucked bertha col
lar, cut square to show guimpe OF
Valenciennes put together with needle
work stitches in yellow silk
Interest in linen shirt waists is moi
quite as lively as 1t will be later. The
newest shirt waist is very affair, ex-
cept that it has half sleeves. Every
kind of a garment has half sleeves, and
the excuse for the starched shirt fol
lowing the general rule is that it gives
the arm freedom for tennis, etc. The
model, with soft folded collar attached
and pocket on the side, will undoubt-
edly lead in popularity. Many OF
these are exquisitely embroidered in
t-zz..-- +l,rnoJ OAt,o,..