Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-14
PICTURESQUE PARTISAN MOURNING.

skirt and coat. Young girls and matrons
rather incline toward more dressy effects
possibly jaunty little short Jacket with
shirrings and ruchingS. For more elaborate
costumes Grape is the trimming most en-
ployed, and it shows to better advantage
on the long skirts worn in the afternoon
and on house gowns rather than on the
short walking suits For the latter narrow
bands are used
In these days, when dinner dress is OBJ
ligatory even in the quiet of ones home.
the mourning wardrobe contains a stunning
gown of Grape. Some of the most pic
turesque frocks are trimmed with duh pas
sementerie, or the very latest wrinkle is to
embroider the Grape in dull silks. OF
course, collars and cuffs of tarletan finish
the neck and sleeves of all informal dresses
the depth of the cuffs depending upon the
wearer's relation to the person moutned
Many women object to black-bordered
handkerchief, and use instead those of
plain white hemstitched linen.
AS for gloves, suede giants are preferred,
there is no absolute law governing their Sc
lection. One would naturally not think OF
putting on a pair of patent leather boots
with a mourning costume, but would don
shoes of dull leather for the street and duh
kid for indoors. Very exaggerated borders
of black on stationery are not considered
coed form, but there are varying widths to
correspond with the mourning worn
At a recital the other afternoon L saw
some stunning mourning gowns. One that
especially appealed to me was of jet black
face cloth, trimmed at the bottom of the
skirt, on the sleeves and the bolero jacket
with Grape Above the Grape band on the
skirt was blocked-out edge of cloth run
around with rows of soutache braid, which
also ornamented the front panel in fancy
design. This trimming almost covered the
jacket, whose tabled ends finished with a
ruche of Grape
To go from grave to gay, and to trans
pose the lines from severe to lively, don
you think the dancing gowns are perfectly
fascinating this winter? 1t is positively
distressing in view of the lovely things
that one might have worn to think of ones
debutante days. Dress now is so much
prettier and distinctive than 1t some
years ago, when We Were all pale shadows
of our mothers, but all this is changed. and
the dance dress of the young girl of today
is an entirely separate and individually in
spired affair, simple in effect. but wrought
under eXtravagantly clever auspices. Fore
most in materials comes ring-spotted net,
the silk variety taking the lead This net
is fashioned into the daintieSt kinds or
gowns, with charming frou frouey effects.
A skirt with mass of little frilis at the
hem, each one finished with baby ribbon
slightly gathered on, is very pretty. Some
times on these jupes the frills are made to
| undulate slightly by way of variety, and
the movement is duplicated on the waist,
which Is mounted with high draped cein-
ture Boosting long sash ends. 1t may be
personal prejudice, but given a gown with
such a decidedly girlish tendency l must
confess to a penchant for sashes bod
ice adornment. Wide sash ribbons are 50
attractive this winter, especially those OF
the chine quality, and give such a cachet
to the simplest creation. Both the empire
and directoire vogues lend themselves to
these adornments, the latter in the form of
long coat tails.
Apropos of empire fashion, Partisan
debutante will make her low to society in a
delightful costume OF that period, evolved
from ring white net, mounted over a prin-
cess slip of white satin. The hem melts
into a flounce of fine French lace sur
mounted by draped wreaths of chiffon roses