New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1906-01-28
SIMPLICITY In LINE.
Dressmakers Sag 1t Is the Notable
Change in Year of Fashions.

Paris January 10.
When one OF the most famous dressmakers
was asked the other day what had been the
chief change I'm fashions during the last year
he said: Without doubt it is the simplifying or
lines-that is. although hardly say that
gowns are simple now, they are designed to give
the suggestion Of restfulness and harmony.
The fitted habits. which came in last winter,
and which fashionable women are still wisely
wearing taught us how charming the simple
silhouette could be- and this idea has been i'm
proved on by the introduction Of the princess
and Directoire robes TUNES and long over
skirts are having some vogue. to be sure but
the best examples OF these continue the folds Of
the dress and carry out the same lines. The
line is never roughly broken"
Another .couturier lays great stress on the har-
moniOus scheme OF color which. he claims, IL
characteristic Of the year just finished. Gowns
have never been more trimmed. nor so discreetly
trimmed" he said. The standard Of exquisite
fneness that lingerie work has set before us is
being regarded as a test OF all materials.
Cloths, silks and velvets demand as perfect
workmanship do the softest linens and silk
gauzes and they are tucked and shirred. self
embroidered and inset with lace in much the
same fashion. The use of one color or one tint
in the trimming has been all in the direction Of
good taste, although it is in danger Of becoming
mOnOtonOus However. the idea of the strong
color note had been carried too far. and a reac-
ton was necessary. The use Of tinted Iaces has
been very fortunate. and the patine gold and
silver tissues and laces have added much to the
elegance Of the winter modes without detract-
ing from their good taste"
Certainly the last year has been a period of
great luxury in every department of the feminine
toilet but it Will probably always be looked
baC tn n
chiffons Often one cannot realize the attrac-
uveness of a mode until ii is past and there
is no better method Of comparison than to ex-
anime old fashion plates. How much more sue
cessful from an aesthetic point Of view for
Instance the fashions Of fourteen years ago
than those which came in few years later or
to go back much further. how Infinitely more
graceful were the gowns Of the Third Empire
imam the 'puIlbackS" and exaggerated bustles
that followed.
There are many sins against good taste COM
united IN the name of Fashion, and so during
the year past many atrocities have come ont
under the term "Directoire." At the first OF the
season there was lot written about the true
Dlrectolre' and the modified Directoire," while
IN truth the best Paris dressmakers never sane
TONED anything save a modified DireCtoire AS
graceful as the historical costume was at its
time IL is quite unsuited to the modern woman
to her figure, her carriage and her MANY Dur-
suits. Everything good this year has been due
to reaction against the extremes Of the period
which preceded IT and has succeeded by the |
clever adapting OF the new ideas TO the old
Sto4utlItS' ne reaction was against the eXag-
gelated long waist and the too baggy blouse
and In great haste came about the CRY for little
tight, perted-up bOdices. Now one sees neither
the very full blouse the very close one but |
a graceful mean. modified to suit the individual
figure. And in regard to the changes that have
come about in the idea of decoration the rear- /
ton was against the daring splashes Of color |
OFTEN described as so effective and so French
and often applied without taste or judgment.
Perhaps the most daring flight of originality
this season has been in millinery. and the win
ter has brought sobriety in that respect for the
too-much tilted hats already q thing of the
past. The caCne peIgne still serves it's purpose
hut does not denote at what an extravagant |
angle hat may be poised.
Hints Of the spring modes are already In the
air, although 1t will be some weeks vet before
the new models are formally displayed BOlerO |
effects Will be prominent and longer than those
OF the winter Princess lines expected TO
continue, but not 10 the extent that they are |
seen now and more belts viii be worn Sleeves |
may be q little larger and more trimmed hut |
they Will continue short and moderately high
at the shoulders. Lingerie work and lace will |
be the best trimmings and lot OF e1IiDure win |
be used. TOile de Joey is to be a great standby
not only for waistcOats and depassements but |
used as bands and applications. A novel exam
pie OF this Is costume of red wool crepe |
trimmed with apphQued roses cut out of this !
material The manufacturers expect to have a
great call for red fabrics, and they prophesv |
that tan shades will be worn again
At a recent fashionable wedding most oF tba |
gowns We're Of velvet and the exhibition Of furs |
included the most beautiful that can be ir1s,7 |
med. The brides gown for the civil ceremony was
extremely pretty. 1t of silver gray craDe |
de chine, with embroidery in the same color
making garlandS on the skirt and r1IupfDo- m |
the front breadth. There were little uT5erHl |
sleeves and a front to the cOrsage Of fine lin
gerie work and tiny Nalenciennes ruf1es and |
a bunch Of orange blossoms was pinned among