The evening times. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1906-1914, 1906-06-16
Estelle's Fashion Letter.

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Estelle's Fashion Letter.
New York. June 16.-As the ankle
ties and duties of the home dress
maker are practically over. for the
present at least. l am going to devote
this letter largely to an account of
what I saw in the shops this week in
the way of ready-to-wear apparel.
The display was fascinating because
of the loyeliness Of design and beauty
of material. and 1t was also perfectly
satisfactory in regard to workman
ship. One is almost tempted to ad-
wise all women, whenever possible,
to avoid the wear and tear Of home
dress-making entirely and to choose
the seasons outfits as needed at the
ready-to-wear establishments.
If the expense seems too great,
figure again and see If coat or frock
less will not equalize matters. OF
course the made-over garments must
be done at home OF under personal
supervision. but even here the ready
tO-wear costumes are invaluable in
the way of ideas and suggestions.
And. after all. the cash sums required
to purchase coats and frocks ready
to-wear though they may take
pretty slice out Of ones wardrobe al
lowance. yet 1t has proved over and
over that the actual cost Is less in the
end. for it is quite possible to get
real tailor-made, ready-to-wear, at
one-half the cost of an ordered gown.
The styles shown in many of the
moderate priced garments are equal
to the exclusive costumes turned out
by the most fashionable dressmaker
Also, though l am not yet ready to
admit that there is any designer or
maker of gowns superior to French
modiste. have lived too long in this
country not to appreciate its remark
able versatility.
There are in New York several
Irish-American so-cahed "madames,"
who act as designers for the large
dry goods houses and their work in
many ways cannot be surpassed. I
saw great deal of it this week dur
ing a day spent among the ready-to-
wear shops, and made numerous notes
for present and future use.
Among the garments shown me
there were several attempts to revive
the long sleeve, but this cannot be
accomplished during the warm wealth
er. To be sure Nine. Bernhardt is
lending her aid, having ordered for
all her costumes long lace under
sleeves coming we'll over the hands.
but the majority of gowns and cos
tunes on exhibition were made with
elbow lengths.
However, one charming street gown
exhibited has solved the sleeve prob
lem by making its bolero jacket with
sleeves of three-Quarters length. They
had double turn back cuffs, the outer
cuff being of pique. The skirt had
two double box-plaits both front and
back, and near the hem there was a
wide stitched band which gave it. the
desired and necessary dare. The
deep wide girdle extended we'll up on
the waist where it met the cunning
little bolero. The edges of the
coat were trimmed with bias folds of
cloth and fancy buttons. A long silk
.cravat passed through the front fas-
Jennings and tied in a inland.
The material of this practical street
gown was of mixed worsted and was
very safe investment for the woman
with moderate income.
There is something new in check
material, which was used successful
ly in street costumes. 1t is called
shadow check and is mixture of silk
and wool. In some lights its effect Is
of the ordinary simple check, in other
lights 1t has pronounced checker
board appearance. This effect is OBJ
tanned bv the weave of the fabric and
not by color combination, The ma
terial is SO new and uncommon that
it is some higher in price than the
average dress stuff 1t will attain and
keep for the present at least certain
supremacy, as it cannot be found in
cheap goods. Some of the thin veil
ings are made in shadow check. but
these must be carefully used In CO.'S
tunes as the effect is greatly enhanced
or married by the lining used. or the
foundation material selected.
For instance, light gray shadow
check yelling was elegantly COM
bined with an underslip of gun metal
silk. Another dress of the same light
gray was exquisite over shrimp pink.
A navy blue had q lining of light blue.
an apple green had ivy green beneath.
The trimmings blend In color with the
foundation material. Although the
prevailing mode all spring was grays
in all manner of design and weave,
quite suddenly they are set aside in
favor Of tans and browns. However,
the woman fortunate enough to have q
discard It, for 1t is color always
In good form and invariably becoming.
Many OF the new browns require the
most faultless complexion, and nm
usual care must be used In adopting
any 5of the light tones. l saw some
very smart walking costumes In light
browns. tanS and lawns. but q dress
on Q wax figure and against q wax
complexion j not always successful
{ " transferred to the ordinary, every
day woman.
Notwithstanding the vogue Of the
princess and empire fashions. which
would Seem to do away with need for
belts and belt buckles. the shops show
great quantities and any number Of
new styles both In belts and In separ-
ate buckles TO Be worn with ribbon
belts or those made q the material
OF ~ gown. Broad girdles are shown
made q the most elaborats combina-
don Of linen. lowered SILK. embroidery