The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1906-01-20
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FASHIONS FOR MEN

FASHIONS
THE Baron" writing to Tho uaber.
dusher from London says:
American fashions differ from those OF
London In fow respects but, unless in
certain divngations OF what YOU nppear
TO call club dress (evening) and associate
with that mysterious word, 'gruxedo.,,
n resident OF tho United state, even ,f
not affected by the decided tendency to
Brldcism which I obsetve, whenever
am there, in your wealthy class would
not be very conspicuously different In
his outfit from tho rest OF the English
community, though to Il close observer
he would no doubt present certain small
variations from the regular type. For
example. when we make a wing collar.
we do not commence the fold so fur
back as you do. This does not necessarily
mean that the wings themselves. on an
English collar, arc smaller than on nr
American one, though az matter OF
fact they arc somewhat smaller than
the latter just now. What 1t does imply
in that the London-mnde wing collar has
not 10 generous space In the middle.
Consequently It is not nearly so COM
Portable We still wear round points to
When wing collars were used with Jacket
or tweed morning coats. some time ago.
there was n well-defined rule that
rounded corners on the collar Indicated
full dress, both at night and In the
day time. whereas sharp corners went
with packet or sporting coat. Now
there are no sharp-cornered wing collars
ut all: with Il Jacket suit double col
| lar Is again universal, In tho day time,
while at night the same collar Is worn
| with full as with club dress, viz. n
| rounded point wing. We have nothing
but round points to our fold collars. and
we do not wear these in the evening ut
| all, as you appear to do. do yol call
| them Tuxedo collars in that case0
| Moreover. we do not use such wide and
| conspicuous stitchings as you do on coll
| lars. The very best style does not show
stitching at all. This Is q very conspicu-
GUS difference between your style md
ours. Also. we do not use shaped muflers
with evening Tor any dress; we use a
plain silk square. Those quilted silk con-
| trivances. so handsomely and so often adj
vertised by various manufacturers In the
interesting advertising section OF The
Haberdasher. should never BIO brought to
England. where the irreverent call them
| liver-pads. and only rather ostentatious
| COURSE. this does not mean that an Amer
lean would be harshly criticised for using
| such n contrivnnce. az one of our own
| people would be; we should simply assume
that he had imported something from his
own country that Is not usually employed
| by well dressed persons in London-for
we like your people and enjoy cheir visits.
their racy talk and the fine independence
| OF their manners. which never trnnsgress
| tho limits OF good breeding. and yet are
| not rendered flat by conventionaiity. One
very useful invention OF yours does not
| seem to DO at all In favor here-perhaps
because no one has had tho enterprise to
| advertise II. I mean the cont shirt.
| You would think that the evident convent
| ence OF being able TO put ones shirt on
like a Jacket, instead OF climbing labori-
ously through 1t head-frst would insure
| this Inventions making its way across the
I Atlantic Ocean into an instant acclama-
ton of popularity. II Is not SO. There
arc no coat shirts to be had here at any
| OF our shops.
Singlc-stud dress shirt fronts are like
ly to be the rule again this season. but
| two-stld shirts are also quite wearable.
| Military officers like three. Full day
| dress for the winter consists OF black
| frock coat, made of good West-of- Eng
land cloth. apparently plain. but really
| owing some OF the richness OF its tone
| to a concealed plaid or square pattern.
| You can see nothing OF the pattern by
| looking closely into the cloth, but by
| looking across 1t at the light you per-
| ceive the different reflections OF the
| yarns. The waistcoat to wear with this
Is either one that matches the coat. or a
1 dark gray flannel ono with very sub
/ dued but large. pattern. The neck Of
| tho waistcont opens fairly high. and Is
| visible when the coat is buttoned.. The
/ waistcoat is single breastcd. and has no
| collar. There are four pockets in It,
/ with no faps-fiaps only 70 with bold
| sporting waistcoat-and the distance be-
| tween the last button and the edge Is
| considerable. the corners being well cut
away 50 that there is no necessity to
! adopt the hideous custom regarded in
| America as so distinctively English. of
| leaving the bottom button undone. as
| though the wearer had eaten too much
| and couldn't fasten 1t. This used to be
| regarded as an Elton fashion, and our
weighty comic newspaper, Punch. had
| n picture OF a man In a railroad car
rage who wore his waistcoat arranged
! in the Objectionable manner Just refer
\ red to. A man opposite pointed TO II
saving .Eton?" No" replied the other
man, who was decidedly stout. no.
| drlnkin'." The real object OF leaving
the button undone was, no doubt. 20
prevent the corners from curling Dut
waistcoats are now cut to opViate .ne
necessity for such device ana u ii's
| lived its short day.
Frock coats are made with the lape els
| not ironed to a tight crease put i,e .n'
| are they lrolled,to wear unhuttoncd Ihey
Tn,tton to about. the height of the Sc
,crd wa,stcoat button, which they Just
conceal The lapel facings are either
OF plain, duh silk. or OF very me
| Ia sket weave, like a microscope
barathea The waist is cut fairly snug
and the coat is we'll SHAPED INTO tne
hins Int the chest Is not made tight
al, The correct length is Just to the
,,ana 80 the knee The trousers are
oeNN - . no nl1la hut