Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-11
MUSLIN NEGGEE

be draped the overdress. of whatever ma
terial is chosen. The material may hang
loose from the shoulders without being
belted in at the waist line. and yet the
figure will not be shapeless. for if the
gown be we'll cut the waist line Will be In
dicated but not defined, and yet there will
be none of that ugly, ungraceful appear
ance that perfectly straight fo,ds of ma
terial are very apt to give to woman VINO
is not tall and slender.
So-called classic lines are rather dif-
cult of accomplishment, and great many
people are led astray by them, for 1t ls
easy to use too much material or too lit
tle and there is really an art In disposing
of It. All this the fitted lining helps to &C
is fitted the outer garment is apt to fall In
ungraceful folds with the fullness just In
the wrong place. Any garment that Is
straight in front Is liable to this very ugly
fault, for no woman can look well with
too thick a waist line and with just the
same amount of fullness about the Shout
ders and around the hips Just as In
well-cut skirt the lines gradually flare out,
so must they do in the tea gown, and the
slanting line and bias seam are what ac-
complish 1t.
Brocaded and Powered silks are extremely
effective and useful in the tea gown of to-
day. They are not necessarily enormously
expensive and at the same time 1t is COM
effective and rich looking. More or less of
the princess effect can be given, especially
at the back in a brocaded tea gown, while
the front fitted at the darts. but hanging
loose from the shoulders. can be made to
wear open over a front of lace or net. A
touch of color in the revers or the facing,
with girdle showing in front, or, in fact.
around the waist If so desired, jabots OF
lace and an unlined yoke and collar with
lace sleeves form altogether most charm
| ing effect. The light colored brocades are
| of course. the most effective. but the darker
! ones are more useful. and this year there
are rare combinations Of coloring, which,
| with touch of velvet in the revers, make
| most attractive garments Black and white,
| the gown of black brocade with front OF
| white make really the most useful COM
bination of all, and 1t Is easily possible,
with the use Of considerable lace, and that
| of a good quality, to have such a gown as
| this just as effective as though 1t were
| made of the Hghtest materials. and at the
same time 1t will be far more serviceable
| From time immemorial the accepted idea
| of the tea gown has been a loose, flowing
garment, preferably of India silk or some
| such thin material. most deliberately
| trimmed with entredeux and ruffies of lace
| rather shapeless, II the truth were told,
but the shapelessness supposedly hidden by
| the elaborate trimming. In these days,
| however, such a garment Is considered
quite old fashioned and not at all to be
| classed with the modern tea gown, which
| is a most elaborate and picturesque gar
| ment At the same time such gowns must
needs be included in every complete ward
/ robe. but conservative taste now considers
| them too much on the negligee or matinee
order to be appropriate, excepting IN the
boudoir or bedroom. where they really are
! very charming and appropriate.
| Long lace coats have been utilized for the
| last year In many of the tea gowns. and the
| craze for lingerie and embroidery of all
| kinds has also been made use Of for this
| style of gown. Charmingly dainty, terribly
| expensive. but as rule becoming, are the
| tea gowns of lace and embroidery, and the
| lace coats are most cleverly adapted to
wear with the lace skirts that are either
| made in one long nounce or In several
! founces. Made over a color are these
| coats, either of fine or heavy lace, so fitted
| that they define the figure at the back and
sides, and either tight fitting or loose in
front.
They are so constructed they can be worn
! with a belt at the back and the belt passed
| through the Sits at the side and finished IN
front with buckle. Being slit through
the front gives the loose lines necessary to
| distinguish 1t as a tea gown, which, II the
coat were belted in all the way round the
| waist would not be possible. Such are a
few Of the details that have to be carefully
noted in the intricacies Of the fashions OF
| today Any color that is becoming is used
in the lining. and all white Is just as fasn-
| ionable as ever so that every taste can
certainly be carried out. This is the time
of year when 1t Is possible to find bargains
| In lace coats, and II may De noticeo mere
that the lace boleros are also used with
good effect on tea gowns, for they car
really carry out very charmingly the EN-
| pire STYLE which always seems much more
suitable for tea gown than for anything
else.
Combining two or more materials In a
| tea gown Is decidedly fashionable. A white
lace with blue brocade. a white lace with
mauve satin or chiffon velvet. white lace
with pale pink crepe de chine, are all
favorite effects. while in the embroideries
and the embroidered boleros there is OPP
portunity to introduce quite variety OF
colors. AS has been said. the lace boleros
can be used to good advantage on tea
gowns, but In these days of elaboration Il