The Guthrie daily leader. [volume] (Guthrie, Okla.) 1893-1996, 1906-01-20

New York, Jan. 2o.-The thrifty ays-
tematic woman, whether her duties are
entirely in social Ines or IN the retire.
ment Of home life is now giving a grcat
deal Of time and sh0ught to the planning
and making OF the spring and summer
wardrobe. Winter costumes are siii IN
evidence. but my lady VIII not be
caught mapping. we moy rest assured.
and the mild sunny. icugthening days OF
spring viii open many crysaiis and re-
veal a Kaleidoscope 81 grace and beauty.
Blues. yellows ana green's. but espcciai-
iy blue. wi be seen IN an saades and
materials
The famous English novelist. Mrs
Craieie. Is now In New York. and at n
reception given by her 10 , favored few
she appeared IN an accordion plated
gown Of pale blue nuns yelling with hat
OF the same shade the only triminK
magnificent ostrich plumb Of the same
blue.
w'o md this especial blue offered in
the musiins and linens for summer wear.
Blown tones are not offered az all unless
It be in coppery and sulphur shades,
which but very few woper can wear
successfully.
Tho question arises az TO the pattern,
or rather the style In the making Of
these Spring and Summer weaves. There
Is the ever prominent shirt waist. OF
course for the linens. but Paris does not
tai kindly and never has 70 the genu
inc shirt waist, which ls known there as
the American waist" when It comes
from the hands Of the French modiste Il
has many a dainty feminine touch that
removes Il very far from the tailormade
untrimmed. close-htting waist OF Ion-
don and New YORK In the shops which
cater especially 10 the American trade
one finds nothing In color IN the way Of
shir, waists, aud on nlmsy materials.
An are made in dead white. the favorite
material bcius course linen. n trimcd
at All they are heavily embroidered.
The belts shown 90 wear with these
waists arc sometimes Ia soft. duil-coi-
ored leather which wrinkles 10 az the
form, There are other elegant models
In dun white, heavy gros grain silk with
a square and handsome buckle in silver
or gilt
AS have said before the French mod
istes do not take kindly 10 the skirt and
waist Of different material or color. and
true to their convictions they are send
ing out Spring models from neck 10 hem
one unbroken line. Yielding a point to
popular fancy they cali these creations
shirt waist suits But let me describe a
dark blue taffeta. and decide for your
self as to the propriety OF the title.
The skirt was circular Of course. but
tucked 10 at the hips closely, naring
below the 1necs The waist was laid in
,lose piaits at the shoulder, looseuing or
easy over the bust and 70 the waist i1e.
= In
small revcrs and faced with white silk,
forming V which was filed by a
guimpe with high collar Of white cm-
broidercd Ind.a SILK. The blue affec,
sleeves were plated into the shoulder.
but reached only TO the elbow whre they
were gathered into tiny turnover cum
Of the taffeta faced to match the revers
at tn, neck. From elbow to wrist was q
tight-atung sleeve Of the same embroid-
) cred silk as the guimpe finished at the
wrist with just a lne Of blue in lighter
shade. there beine similar line az tho
? edge Of the high collar coming wen up to
the chin,
The hat TO wear with this costume
] was "a rough black straw with two white
{ roses under the brim ana green leaves
and buds ON the outside.
Tho hats shown for Spring wear, as
well as some mnfSed for Summer use
are generally wide Of brm but without
; the large and ungracefu crown OF o
E season ago The crowns are now nigh
er and nearer the size ofthe head.
Two Of several hats ordered by lads
noted for her elegant ana tasteful toll
cites were OF wide brimmed icghou
dressed IN tulle One was trimmed n
canary color with pink roses at tho front
; and streamers 10 hang loosely or 20 bS
: Knotted lightly across the breast. Th'
other was entirely in white tulle viii
rosettcs made TO loo6 like whito roses
which were fastened 20 the hat with tiny
crystal pins baving the effect Of dew
drops A third hat ordered by the sam'
person was OF rough straw Tor country
or seaside wear II was a mass Of vers
natural wild flowers OF every color As
a rule the ultra fashionable DO not take
kindly to flowers but the beautiful roses
introduced by the milners last season
could not be resisted. 10th to ielinqalst
the queen OF flowers. the same effect d
being tried for by the many petaled ano
compact dihlia. The result is greal
style ana smartness. but no grace. The
dahlia viii doubtless win It's way foi
street coustoms. but viii not appear with
evening toiiettes except when unusually
handsome and costly.
After the first OF February which
means stock-iaking, It win be easy "a
tell the fun story OF the coming seasons
styles ana materials. II one may judge
by the early exhibit, next Summers fny-
orite materials are 10 echo last SUM
mer's ideas but with additional touches
of beauty. The charm OF the silk and
cotton mixtures. which was one Of the
features Of last se8son Is intensified this
year and many Of these shimmcring,
silky stuHs are sold al prices higher
than those asked Tor the average an silk
material
one objection may be urged against
these spans They 40 muas and cfumple
with distressing readiaess but they may
be pressed out and frcshened. and, from
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