The Birmingham age-herald., 1906-05-13
Real Laces of Goodly Cost
 Adorn Lingerie Possess iions- Me Priincesse Gown Tn Fact and Effect = Em- broidered Parasols and Fascinating Little Boleros.

That this Is an era of extravagance In dress not even the most modestly minded devotee of fashion can deny.
 Extravagance marks the mode in It's every phase and manifestation; and, where a few years ago 1t was possible to procure little cotton frock for modest sum, today those possessions have at tained to the rank of luxuries, and must be paid for accordingly.
 Not however: that they are any more extravagant than the gowns that our grandmothers wore, all things considered, for their price today Is but little higher proportionately than what those same dear old ladies paid for their embroidered muslins, Chinese crepes. their real lace coats and spencers, their handwrought parasols and all the other costly Items that marked the garb of the lady of 1'den time.
 But 1t is in the so-called lingerie mode that this extravagance finds at once Its most delightful and its most costly ex pression. The French, incidentally, would be rather puzzled to know jrst what is meant by lingerie gown, the term lin- gerie over there. where 1t really origi- mated, being confined to the designation of garments of the most intimate char acter. Ones underwear may be of lin- gerte character ones gowns and blouses, according to the Parisienne, never! How ever, the word has come to have an &C., ceptance on this side of the water which makes the Parisienne acceptaton seem like distinction without any material difference.
 Of course, these charming possessions are all of them fashioned, fundamentally; that is, of the accepted lingerie materials. hence the adjective. The finest and sheer est of handkerchief linen-the kind that the trade designate as 30000, meaning that there are some 30,000 threads to the square inch of fabric-is In such demand that the supply Is sold way ahead.' Linen batiste, too, shares in this vogue, and the sheerest of nainsook, cotton chif- ions and eolennes, Persian lawns and all novelty weaves in cotton find due appre- ciation q. the hands of the makers of these exquisite creations.
 There Is one great comfort ir all of thls extravagant fashion. however, and that is that the girl with nothing year to dress upon-or next door to 1t, can, if she be skilled with her needle and pos sess that patic ce and perseverance which the old proverb declares will find even a wife for a priest, she can duplicate the most costly possessions of her dearest friend or enemy, and for a fraction of what they have paid for the privilege of owning such.
 Extreme simplicity of outline marks ali of the new creations in this mode, but to the initiated theresis a marked differ- ence-just those subtle little touches that serve to fence of the latest arrivals from their predecessors.
 For one thing, the shoulder line Is conspicuously broadened. There is either a very high but transparent collar. or else the neck Is cut down In a slight V, after the St. Cecilia style; but no com promise whatsoever Is to be attempted between these two extremes. Sleeves are just a trifie larger, much more elabo. rately trimmed, and the best makers are employing little loops of collar bone, somewhat in the shape of croquet arch, and sewing those into the armsize 50 that they support the sleeve at the shout. der line and assist In the broadening ef- feet. Anything and everything that will broaden the shoulder, and SO, by force VI CoutTdbt, IHdhe tue WuiSt nuoro bicuurE, is the goal toward which the French de- signer directs his best efforts
 One oftentimes is moved to wonder how It Is that these Irish peasants who make that marvellous crochet can tell so far ahead of time just what lines fashion Is going to follow. Those gowns are all of them made without seam, the design Of the lace being planned to follow the lines of the gown. and when 1t is con- sidered that a year, or even two years. are oftentimes consumed In their mak- ing, the fact that they accord In every particular with the very latest Ideas. the dernier cri of fashion, at the moment Of their appearance, seems like witchery or some other form of magic
 In both the lingerie and the real mce designs there is sharp competition be- Tween that class of princesse gown that Is fashioned all In ono piece and its sim nlation, which Is really two garments, cleverly joined at the waistline, or some where In that vicinity. The latter is, of course, by far the more easy of con- struction, and when the joining belt or urdle is made to carry out some idea [ q elabora ton even the simplest design fan be carried to degree of success khat seems hardly warranted at the start. I Lace must be purchased, one might say, I hg the mile rather than by the yard for