Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-11

Nermicelu.
Broiled White Fish with Anchovy Sauce,
ENTREE.
Tongue OF Beef with Sauce Piquante.
VEGETABLE.
PURGE of Spinach.
ROAST
Turkey Stuffed with Chestnuts.
SALAD.
Escaroe.
CHEESE
Port de Salut.
Eating in France is a very serious func,
tion and the people who are not rich enough
to afford good quality Of ailments will do
without the luxuries Of the table rather
than have them Of an inferior quality. II
they have only bread to eat. II must be
good. and when they can afford a chicken
they want the best II they have a beef
steak from the round 1t is not tender as
the tenderloin. but 1t is of a good quality
Of meat. l will not say that there are no
exceptions to this rule, but they are Ger
tainly very few.
Freshly killed meat is better for making
good bouillon; it has kept all its juice and
flavor. Such pieces as the low and top
round. the neck. the shin and the shoulder
are very juicy and make good bouillon, but
they are dry and not very good for eating
after boiling four or five hours. COM
btnation of the lower round for a juicy
piece OF meat for the Improvement OF the
bouillon and the plate-piece for a delicious
morsel Of meat for the table is very good.
II you do not care for the meat and wish
more gelatinous bouillon shin is the best
piece. 1t Is important to have an iron pot,
porcelain lined or timed inside, which is
reserved for exclusive use In making the
pot-au-feu. 1t Is a very delicate dish and
Is very apt to lose Its own flavor IL cooked
In receptacle where. for instance ham or
fish has been cooked before.
The practice of washing meat is very det-
rimental to its quality. In some cases II is
necessary. especially In summer, but If, by
scraping the outside and cutting off a piece
here and there. you can avoid the washing,
do 1t.
make a good pot-au-feu:
Two pounds Of lean beef plate. one pound
of the lower round of beef. a knuckle bone.
three quarts Of water, four good-sized leeks.
three medum-sized carrots. two medium
sized white turnips. a leaf of celery, a few
sprigs Of parsley, one medium-szed onion.
five cloves. one small teaspoonful of Kitch-
en-bouQuet, no pepper, two tablespoonfuls
salt.
The carrots should be scraped and cut in
two and the turnips. when peeled divided
also. The leeks must be cut where the
white part ends and the green part begins:
when washed. the white part Is tied up in
| a small bundle and the green part tied to-
gether with the parsley and celery. Peel
the onion and insert the cloves In It, Put
the meat in the pot with cold water cover
and set on the fire. Watch closely, and
when the scum begins to rise TO the surface
remove 1t with the skinner. Do not allow
| 1t to boil before IT Is well skinned; this is
very necessary precaution for the clear
ness of the bouillon. II it boils too quickly.
the scum sinks to the bottom and the
bouillon will be muddy. When it boils put
| In the salt. the onion and the cloves. the
| bundle of parsley celery and the green
| part of the leeks. the carrots and turnips.
Cover and let boil slowly. that is simmer
| ing. for three hours. Then add the white
part of the leeks and let boil one hour
longer. Five minutes before dishing put in
the Kitchen-bouauet. In all. let it simmer
| for four hours and ii Is done.
| An economical way of making good
| bouillon is to use everything left over in
| the way Of meat that is useless for the
| table, provided 1t is still fresh and good
| The bones coming from the roasted meat
| and the gfblets and scarcasses of poultry
may be utilized In this manner. The glib
| lets include not only the liver and gizzard.
but the neck, the last joint OF the wings,
the heads-which can be skinned and
| washed-also the feet of chickens and tur-
| keys (the feet and heads of ducks and
geese are not good). which are cleaned by
soaking them first In boiling water for two
| or three minutes and scraping the skin
| which covers them and cutting off the end
of the claws. They are very gelatinous and
| add a great deal to the quality of the
| bouillon. After collecting all you can util-
| lie. weigh 1t and add to 1t a quart of wa
ter for each pound. Proceed exactly as
| described above for pot-au-feu. Sometimes
vegetables will give the bouillon a nice
| flavor. But 1t will not keep well. as the
cabbage causes 1t to sour very quickly.
vermiceln Soup.-Crush lightly a small
1 ho, II nf md ffr In,
quart of boiling ibouillon: cover and let boil
slowly for twenty minutes and serve.
Broiled White Fish with Anchovy Sauce
A gridiron should be kept for fish alone.
| Wash and dry the fish in a cloth and rub
| 1t with -four. Grease the gridiron with a
! little butter-this will keep the fish from
| sticking to it while cooking.
Freshen some sailed anchovies and pound
them In a mortar. then mix with them
| double their weight of butter and some
pepper. Put the sauce on a hot platter and
let 1t melt. lay your fish on 1t, haste and
| serve
Tongue of Beef with Sauce Piauante.-
Wash the tongue and steep II in boiling
| water long enough to allow the skin to be-
come loose and be scraped off easily. When
| scraped and freed from gristle, put 1t In
| boiling water with salt. pepper, one good
| sized carrot. two onions. two bay leaves.
! two cloves of garlic and two shallots. Boil
four hours When done. split it in two.
broil on q good coal fire and serve with
| the following:
! Sauce Piquante.-Melt a piece OF butter
| the size of an egg in saucepan and stir In
| q small tablespoonful of -four; let it brown.
| continually stirring. When Drowned, stir
| in q half-pint Of boullon; put In salt, pep
| per- one Glove Of garlic. one shallot chopped
| fine and few sprigs of parsley tied into
| a bunch with one bay leaf. Let boil slowly
| for twenty minutes: then put In three or
! four sliced picked gherkins.
PURGE of Spinach.-Pick and wash a half
| peck of spinach. Put 1t to cook in salted
water. Boil fifteen or twenty minutes.
drain the water of and press through the
| sieve Put a half-cupful of butter in a
I saucepan. When melted. stir in the spin
ach; when well mixed. scatter over it a
large tablespoonful of flour. Stir again and
add one-third of cup of cream. Stir well,
let it come to the boiling point and serve.
The cream could be replaced by the yolks
of two eggs stirred in after the dish is
taken of the fire. just before serving.
Turkey Stuffed with Chestnuts.-Cold-
storage turkeys naturally share all the de-
fects of other poultry treated in this bar
| barous fashion. But at most times, and
especially at Thanksgiving and Christmas.
| 1t is easier to find dry picked turkey free
from cold storage than chicken
For a twelve-pound turkey boil until ter
- Toll CHI