The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-11-11

Equally bad in style is the garment with
the three buttons and the long rolling
collar. As a dinner coat it might be pos
sible as to its general outline. For daily
wear it is inconceivable. Another defect
in it sufficient to put it altogether out OF the
category Of this years modes Is the breadth
of the shoulders. They are still padded
to the grotesque proportions invented
three winters ago.
Ii these are the freaks Of fashion to be
avoided by we'll dressed men, what are the
STYLES of sack that are to be commended?
Perhaps it is best to answer this question
by quoting a Fifth avenue tailor to whom
the inquiry was referred.
Il may have to be a little technical, per-
haps, in terms" he said, but it is worth
while taking that risk in an attempt to
separate the goats and sheep in this years
ia shions for men. Thu best London and
New York model this winter is a single
breasted sack fitting tighter than clothes
have for two years past. There has come
a revulsion against the extremely loose
coat of the past two years. The London
clothes imported here. in fact. are tighter
than we hould care to make up for our
customers. We intend to keepNon making
tftm tlkntcT, uDWcNCI, III Wy hVAb opiihS
or at the latest by next fall. we will he turning
out clothes as tight as those the London
tailors now make. This single breasted
sack is a little more than half fitting and it
has a centre seam down the back finished
with a vent Of not more than seven inches
long.
Il can indicate the length accurately only.
by saying tina | cut for a man five feet eight
t.uLz, All ant Sbtr&x--tryD innhaG long
This is somewhat shorter than the average
last winter. There should be no padding
of any kind in the shoulder, which are also
of natural width. Some tailors are, indeed,
cutting the coat so AS to make the shoulders
have a slight appearance of sloping. but
this seems to me an excess in nicely. There
should be no effect OF faring over the hips.
That never was good style and now IL IL
~inexcusable. The neck is of medium depth
and length and the lapels arc inconspicu-
ously peaked, less than two inches wide.
Three buttons close the coat, which is
cut away slightly at the bottom. The
hip pockets have flaps of moderate breadth
and the handkerchief pocket is welted.
The ticket pocket Is also provided with
a flap. 1t is permissible to nave this flap
button down. as that is a dressy detail of
the coat and not extravagant in design.
The edges of the coat are single stitched
and the seams are cord welted. The sleeves
are finished with a sewed on cuff effect and
with a vent of one button which does not
open. The collar Of the coat should he
rolled rather than tightly pressed down and
the waist coat must show over the top OF
the coat although to II much less extent
than was popular last year among the
minimizing dressers.
Waist coats. which are now almost in
variably Of a fancy material. should be for
the sack without collars, pointed at the
bottom and rather short In all, not more
thar five buttons being used. Trousers
ere extreme II they are more tina n nineteen
inches at the widest point and should run
down TO seventeen over the shoe. They
are side welted and made from one and 2
half to two and a half inches shorter than
they have been for some time. For the
double breasted sack there are few points
Of difference beyond the fact hat il should
he n inch longer. II is best in n solid
color. dark blue, gray or black. This style
Of Goa Is made up in mixtures but that
is not the best taste.
For the sack suit the ~favOrite materials
this year ar" worsted and wool suitings,
or silk and wool mixed worsted. The most
popular cOlOr IL once more brown. II ia
impossible 10 dislodg" Il from public favor
in spite of the long run IL had. The sack
coat made in a dark brown cas- simcre with
out a design Of any kind mnkea a beautiful
suit and N not l,kcly a. o too extensively
copied. since this material is too costly o.
become Common Other combinations usOi
in tho seek suit arc the srays. with an
almost indistingiishable check " red. blue
or green. The conservative men who cling
TO waistcoats Of the same material aS their
suits-snd am not certain hat they are
not the best dressed after all have collars
on their waistcoats.