The San Francisco call., 1906-05-20

the bolero model, also furnish opportuni-
ties for the finest OF lace and embroidery
TO be used, and often the cost OF these
Jackets is far in advance of the cost of
the whole gown, making and all. But
II must be remembered that these jackets
can be worn with more than one gown,
and are in themselves most attractive lit
tile garments that exhibit the beautiful
work and fine lace
1t is fashionable not only to combine
lace and embroidery, but several kinds of
lace in the one gown. A princess gown
may have bands of Irish lace, a bolero
trimmed with a collar of lingerie and an
tioue lace and a chemisette and high col
lar of lingerie and Valenciennes. OF
course there are conservative people, es-
pecially among lace lovers, to whom COM
bining these different laces seems most
improper proceeding; but the woman of
today. she who is gowned according to
fashions latest Dictates has little to do
with conservatism of any kind and pays
no attention whatever to the old time
traditions so far as regards clothes.
EXQUISITE EMBROIDERY.
Heavy linen, embroidered most elab-
orately, is an expensive material. and yet
is made UP for morning gowns this sea-
son; that is, morning gowns intended for
wear at fashionable summer resorts.
Combined with Cluny or real Irish lace
these same linen gowns are thought elab-
crate enough for afternoon wear. while
there would seem TO be a wild race in
the supremacy of lace or embroidery
that is, of which the largest amount is
70 be used. The thinner fabrics such
organdy. lawn, Swiss muslins and
batiste are used more often for afternoon
and for morning, and, in fact, are the
most elaborate costumes that a woman
can possess this year. Hand embroidery
and real lace are naturally considered the
smartest combination possible. but there
is plenty of machine work which requires
the eye of an expert to distinguish from
the real. Oddly enough, it is often COM
bined with real lace. while ON the other
hand imitation lace is used with hand
embroidery. Everything, in short, would
seem to be more than usually contradic-
tory IN the dress question this year, for
while 1t is requisite to look out for every
detail, at the same time it is a general
effect rather than the minute detail that
is the most satisfactory, or. perhaps, the
most noticeable
The Empire style of gown furnishes an
excellent opportunity for all thin, trans
parent embroidered materials, for the ma
terial itself hangs in such long, straight
lines and does not require to be broken by
any bands of founces. An embroidered
material, therefore, shows. to good advan-
tage, and then there is also chance to
display beautiful work or material in the
embroidery across the upper part OF the
waist, and also around the foot OF the
skirt The princess gown affords the ope
portunity for the embroidery on the ma
teria1 itself, but always more on the lines
of the figure, and, with the trimming
around the foot Of the skirt one, two or
three fiounces. And then, also. the short
Jacket that can be worn with either style
comes into play For evening and for the
more elaborate style of afternoon gown
either Of these models is generally chosen
this year, and many Of the embroidered
designs in the most original patterns are
designed for just these models.
To read about OF to look at the models
for this style of afternoon gown is more
than a little depressing when the question
Of ways and means has to be considered
And yet these are not such bad times to
live in, even for .he most forced to be
economical women. as in all the shops
there are TO be found such marvellous bar
gains in the separate Jackets, in the bands
of embroidery, and in the embroidered
robe gowns, while ii is also possible to
utilize old lace and en1breideries that
have done service for many a year. Old
lace and embroidery, like antique furni-
ture, possess an individual charm that is
most fashionable, although. like antique
furniture. old lace and embroideries re-
quire often more careful handling than
the modern limitations. There is an indi-