The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-10-07

Models for Next winter on Exhibition
-AstrAkan Coming 90 the4'rOnt -MIuc
Embroidery on the COats-IAce Used
ON ChInchIla -Ncckpicces apd Nuns.
IT, seems early for talk Of furs. but the
,usy season Of the furrisrs liz already under
nav and the importers are showing their
rne models 70 ths early birds among their
tatrons.
nluckily for the buyers who must
sconomize. buying good furs this season
means expanding more money than would
1ayd been demanded by a similar purchase
lat winter. Flint furs have been steadily
al ancing in price for years past. and this
year the advance has been a radical one.
Gable, sealskin, chinchilla, mink. broad
vi. in fact all furs Of that class are more
than ever costly Injuries; but despite
all that women are briskIy buying. In
the province Of the low grade firs indica-
tons are that the sales will be tremendous.
Astrakan. for instance, ia being forced
upon the notice Of women who annot afford
coats Of high class furs, and the shops
are full Of coats N this fur-very smart
coats too, many Of them. though 1t IL clear
that such garments will be worn to a dis
'ressing extent, and that fact repels the
fastidious woman.
The shaggy. shiny black fur il warm and
becoming and the coats are cut upon all
the modish lines. ranging from the long,
loose motor coat with collar Of contrasting
fur 10 the little square jacket which suggests
q Enlightened Eton and is very popular.
In pony coat length these astrakan coats
are perhaps at their BEST and for $50 one
can buy one Of these models. straight in
front. Semi-ftting OF quite loose in the back,
collarless, double breasted. perfectly plain
and we'll lined with white or brooaded satin.
With handsome big buttons for its only
relief, a coat like this has considerable
cachet, in spite Of its ~cheapness, and good
rcck furs and muff would lend it much
elegance
Many Of the models are braided in wide,
fat, black silk braid, and some Of these
braided coats have a military suggestion,
with hussar braiding, frogs, &C., but the
braided models are cheaper in general air
than the perfectly plain coats, though not
in reality lower in price.
More expensive, but still among the cheap
furs, are models similar to those lust de-
scribed, in Russian pony skin. There il
alwaysa hint Of the domestic animal slauRh-
tered to make a feminine holiday about this
skin. but the brown c~oloring is very soft and
lovely and the furriers have given the skin
surprising suppleness.
One French coat OF Russian pony which
We have seen was a remarkably well cut
little garment, a trifIe shorter than the tra-
ditional pony coat, and quite untrimmed
save for extremely handsome big buttons
Of amethyst set In dull gold. The satin
lining was Of q pale amethyst tint and at
SIPS the scat was eminently desirable.
Caracul, broadtail and all OF the Persian
lamb varieties have advanced in price,
but are more popular than ever and are made
up upon all the fashionable coat lines.
Fancy little coats Handsomely trimmed
have been included among the models from
all the good Paris houses, and excessively
chic examples Of the heightened Eton-the
model Of which we have already spoken
and which seems to have no specific name-
are many among these coats, s.
Francis has a particularly delightful
model Of this typo in b~reitschwanz, and
some Of the little coat are elaborated by
the most exquisite OF hand embroidered
wa~istcoats, showing only when the straight
fronts are thrown hack or showing merely
in a narrow line between straight single
breasted fronts
One sees embroidered collars and sleeve
finishing, too, on some Of the coats, and the
Indian head enbroideries and steel, let and
gold bead embroideries cut considerable
figure in the trimming Of some OF the fancy
breitschwanz models. Motifs Of embroid-
cred velvet are often set upon the fur in
c~paulet, girdle, or other forms, and oc.
casionally a coat shows pipings, buttons, |
&c. Of velvet, cloth or silk.
One Paris model in caracul wa of the
short paletot order and lines Of violet cloth
piping ran from shoulder to bottom and
around the bottom. Similar piping trimmed
tho sleeves and there were little simulated
button holes and tiny buttons Of the cloth
included in the trimming scheme.
The fronts fastened with square bows
or black liberty satin over Q marrow waist
coat Of violet cloth and the coat was ao-
companied by a skirt OF violet cloth trimmed
in a waving band Of the black caracul.
From the same Rue ROyale house came
an odds but chic coat whose upper part
was a bolero Of breitschw anz reaching
to a point Just below the bust. where il
rounded away gracefully in front and ran
up to a slight point in the middle back.
This fur bolero, almost as thin aad, supple
~ cloth and beautifully cut and moulded,
Ioned a black velvet lower part, or what
one might call long basques, of black velvet
committing at the waist and falling to three
quarter length.
The line o'.union between fur and velvet
WIS covered by an embroidery of black
and gold and the effect was semi-empire.
Black and gold embroidery bordered the
little collar IN the cuffs OF black and white
Pekin silk.
Handsome lace is used upon very dressy
fur street coats and upon fur evening coats
but is more especially associated with
"hinchilla than with any other one fur.
This soft gray fur has become 80 rare that
it, price is prohibitive for the average
wopan, but it will be much worn by those
who can afford it during this gray season,
and bands Of it appear upon many Of the
exquisite French frocks.
All sorts Of fanciful little cape and bolero
ELECTS are presented in this fur, as in many
others, and the chinchilla shoulder wrap
tketched here is fairly representative Of this
type Of wrap, though the variations are end
less.
Mink Of the fine, dark qualities is we'll
liked, and no lon0or re6ta under tho accusa-