Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-18

the bottom one and embroidered in similar
fashion. Like the undersleeves, they are
embroidered In od-fashi0ned designs and
edged with narrow Nalenciennes. Usually
they have no collar bands and are meant
70 wear with what is called a round-necked
waist. The prices for the sets are simply
enormous and It is quite worth any woman's
while TO make her own II she understands
embroidery and IS not too much rushed
for time. The sewing classes have many
of them employed instructors who can cut
the collars and sleeves In good designs and
with ScCG lines and style. 1t should be
carefully seen TO that the collar Is well
cut. because If it Is not the handsomest
embroidery will only serve to call atten-
zion 70 its bad fit or awkward lines The
undersleeves require equally careful atten-
ton as to fit and cut.
Many OF the collars are finished around
the top with scallop embroidery with
tiny frlll Of the Valenciennes. Other col
lars also have the Valenciennes set in in
squares. circles or other shapes that are
worked in to form harmonious decora-
ton with the embroidery. Some of the
collars also have Cluny or gu.puTe set III In
this fashion. and others again have the EN-
broidery interspersed with squares of open
work. But both in the collars and the I'M
dersleeves the close French embroidery
seems 10 be quite as beautiful as the de-
signs showing lace or openwork. and ii has
the advantage of n simplicity which the
use Of several styles OF sttchery on the
same piece destroys. Very little eyelet en-
broiGery is seen on this very fire linen, this
apparently being reserved for the very
heavy linens.
The most exquisite fichus of hand-em-
broidercd linen are also being made with
the idea of making them useful on summer
dresses. These are usually made I'D with
undersleeves. as they are TO be worn with
short-slceved frocks. The material OF these
1 tchus Is managed most ad,oitly. so that
without having actual fullness Ii lies in
easy, graceful lines over the waist. The
q ra n effect and
quite narrow. taperiHg decidedly toward
the end. But even at their widest part
across the back they are very narrow.
They are embroidered and the edges fni-
ished with embroidered scallops or some
times with Valencienues. The blind en-
broidry is also used for most of these
ichus, although. OF course, there is much
variety and Individual taste must Be con
suited
The deliciously attractive little hand-em
broidered linen boleros are also fit food for
Lenten needles. These, too, are made OF
the finest handkerchief linen in great
variety of shapes Some are very short all
around. with rounding fronts, that DO not
meet while others are shown very short
In the back but long in front and coming
together across the bust. They ali have
very short sleeves, which reach about mid
way 10 the elbow. The armholes are made
large aud the sleeves are put in rather
fat They are not gathered I'm a cuff but
fall perfectly free. the bottom being edged
with embroidered scallops The entire
sleeve or sleeve rufiie for IL is little more
| than that is deliberately embroidered as is
/ the whole boiero. These are TO be used
with thin white dresses or for house waists
| They are most exquisite in design and or
/ namentatiea.
! There ARD also the plastrons or bibs TO
/ be worn with the underseeves These are
| also of the linen embroidered. but It Is pos
slble TO make them OF figured or Powered
! net. These are made both In the plastrons
| and the undersleeves trimmed with bands
/ OF embroidered linen. The ioose-fitting
urderseeve of Powered net or all-oyer lace