Kingsbury County independent. (DeSmet, Kingsbury County, S.D.) 1894-1929, 1906-07-27


"You would like everything cold?"
said the head waiter. who seemed q lit
tie self conscious On account of his
white duck trousers. These he was
condemned to wear in the summer time
that he might look cool for the sake
might be. THAT Is very we'll for the
terrace. Most of the gentlemen and
ladies who dine on the terrace like ev-
erything cold"
There was a hot glare from the street
Just at that moment, and the dust lay
thick on the tired greens that hedged
the balcony. 1t seemed necessary to
do something to keep cool out there.
Clans" wrote the waiter as the
guest cast his y over the bill OF fare.
And what for a cold soup? Tired of
cold chicken gumbo? Yes. sir, n does
serve that a great deal. And a bouillon
gelde? Tired OF that, too2
We'll, let IL be a barStch froid. That
is the Polish bouillon made of beets,
and it is served cold In a cup. Moth
ing could be more delicious, sir, / as
sure you.
What shall the fish be? Brook trout
en- aspic or sea bass en- rayigote. Both
are delicious, although the bass is more
decorative as he lies on h table In his
pale green covering.
The trout en aspic we boil for you
Then 1t Is garnished with a few slices
of pimento. a trufiie or two put into the
aspic and then cooled almost to the
point of freezing. Very delicious he is,
with the aspic favored so family with
estragon that the delicate taste OF the
trout is not DESTROYED In the least.
1.-The sea bass is also boiled and then
his pale green coat of ravigote sauce is
laid over him so carefully that not
an outline of him Is destroyed. Raw
cote is a very strengthening u TO
the appetite. and is In consistency a
little thicker than a good stiff mayon-
naise.
ut has a little vinegar In the bouil-
lon, and after the cook has cut up
chives, chevril. burnet and tarragon to-
gether he throws them into the vinegar
n bouillon just as they boil. 1t goes
deliciously with cold sea bass. especial
ly when the fish and his pale green
are seen against a background
of dark, crisp romaine.
Yes. sir. I'm sure you'll like II. Or
/ might give o cold soft shell crabs,
not the clammy. lank kind with a thick
layer of corn meal all over them. The
cold crabs I shall give you will have
only the tips of their claws lightly
sprinkled with bread crumbs ground
from the driest toast. and over the
shells there will be a light sprinkling
OF the crumbs.
"Over them there will be chopped as
fine as heads of pins a green pepper.
And we will serve o these crabs with
a delicious mayonnaise.
You prefer the sea bass and the
sauce r~avigote? Yes. sir. 1t shall be
that"
There was a lock of hesitation on the
face Of the guest when the important
question OF the cold fish had been set
tied. He looked critically at the bill
of fare.
Il don't know about cold meat he
drawled. You know cold beef or lamb
is all right for lunch, but for dinner
with a lady-for dinner, i mean. a fell
low wants something different"
Leave that entirely with me, sir"
the waiter went on without the least
sympathy for the uncertainty OF his
customer. Our chef would have very
little imagination for a Gordon bleu II
he should offer you cold beef for a din
ner.
II was going to speak of a poussin en-
aspic. We give you all Of the little
chicken, sir, but his tiny bones. We
draw those out after he has been roast
ed, although you would never know 1t
from the solid. prim way he lies on his
back.
He is stuffed with trufaes and green
peas that have been boiled In cream
with half q scallion thrown into the
pot. Then, like the other little birds,
re Is laid in his cool tomb Of aspic with
yariands of estragon floating In the
amber jelly.
"Or a young duckling treated in just
The same way might suit you better.
We do the same to the duck except that
we do not give him peas and truffies
for a stuffing. He gets sliced cold po-
tatoes with the smallest OF the spring
onions, and he tastes very nice in con-
sequence Of them.F You prefer the
chicken.
"Ah, we have got to the salad. I
would not advise a cold roast. Either
meat or fowl is sufficient. With fish
one does not need both. With two cold
meats the element of monotony starts
to show itself In a summer dinner.
II am going to give you no vegetable
with the cold poussin and / should sug-
gest, therefore, that you take a salad
of cold asparagus with the dinner. IT
will be thick and cold, with a suspicion
OF chives In the French dressing-not
more than enough to bring out more
strongly the particular taste OF the as
HuA o6 10 n SO ~ - SSD~
the touch the asparagus needs.
IAN ice? A MOUSSE, of course, at this
ueaSon; and there is none so delicious
Just now as a strawberry mousse with
bits OF the fruit fiecking the blended
cream which the juice has shaded to
a deep rose.
And may I ask of you. sir, IL / dare,
ule great favor? DO no allow anybody
to persuade you to finish this idyllic
summer meal with hot coffee.
sc many of you gentlemen will Go
that. / have served the most delicious
cold dinner on the hottest OF all nights.
I have served with them. as / shall
serve you tonight, Rhine wine and
champagne during dinner, Up 20 that
point everything was perfect.
But they they ordered not coffee n
drank 1t until p~erspiration flowed down
their cheeks. They wiped their brows
as I stood by and thought that all
which la gone before was in vain.
The heat came with the last course.
"Let me give you cafe kirsch, that
vou may have no such fate, but keep
cool always"
The waiter had his way and the tenn
perature Of the meal was not disturbed.
Whether the fact that food is cold or
warm has any effect On the tempera-
ture OF those who cat IL is an unset
tied question. There is no doubt, how
ever, that New Workers have during
recent summers acquired an extraordi-
nary fondness for cold things during
hot weather.
This taste was 70 doubt created by
The French restaurant keepers, who be-
gan TO supply cold dishes in great