davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-04-22

In most cases the monogram stands alone
but where more ornateness is desired 1t is
surrounded with empire wreath. And IN
connection with the lingerie notions. ia
nous couturier here in Paris is exploiting
the use of heavy creanI-colored beading an
inch and a half wide as "a trimming on the
jackets of his light WOODEN suits. Through
the apertureS of this beading is run a line
of the cloth material. The effect is smart
and rather puzzling to the unaccustomed
eye at first glance. The usual accompan1-
ments to this novel adornment are en-
broidered lingerie collar and cuffs. You
viii understand that the beading only looks
well on light-celored fabrics, such as white
or pin-striped fiannels and cream and ecru
woolens.
The men too, are having attentions
showered upon their wardrobe by feminine
admirers In the shape of Qonograms or
initials worked on shirt sleeves just above
the cuffs. In colored shirts these initials
harmonic with the nuances in the ma
terial They are practical well orna-
mental, serving as they do for a laundry
mark.
So many years ago, in the days of my
youth, before the destinations of this gay
capital claimed me for their own, I have
dim and distant idea of leaning my sleepy
little head on wonderfully wrought GRO
cheted tides. How awful the very name
sounds! Well one fair American colonist
over here found among her slowed away
treasures one of these same tides Yankee
ingenuity not having forsaaken her, she
dissected this same tidy which, by the way,
was crocheted in small wheels, and applied
about dozen of them as medallions on
handkerchief linen blouse. The effect was
stunning, and the girl is now receiving
congratulations upon the beauty of her
handiwork. Go thou and do likewise.
Some of the spring wraps are too funny
fa,-. - ,,er atad of
many dates. Take for instance, one of
the early Victorian shawl wraps; On this
garment one often finds kiInono Sleeves and
gorgeous trimmings of the Louis XIV
period Shawl-lke effects in lace, lined
with chiffon for evening wear, though, are
really lovely, The Victorian modes have
brought about the use of fringe as a
trimming, and exquisite are some of the
modern examples But, to return to capes,
the nattiest of these wraps accompany
skirts of linen and are trimmed with lace
and hand embroidery. When worn en-
sembIe the skirt should he treated to de-
sign in lace matching that on the cape.
AS an extra wrap, those made of Burling
ham, linen or lace will prove a treasure
trove In the summer wardrobe. Lace
Jackets are in fashion once more If you
can persuade your mother to part with her
cherished coat of chantilly, reshape 1t and
wear the smart little renaissance garment
over sheer tub or mousseline gown the
effect will be stunning.
I want to tell you about Fragonard. 1t
is not painting by the famous FrenGp
artist of that name but cloak inspired by
the colorings In this masters wen known
canvases. 1t Is not unusual nowadays for
fashion to commit anachronsms. and when
the result is happy one We should not be
too critical. The cloak in question is COM
posed of a kind of bolero In pale blue cloth,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-04-22
window Boxes.

The use OF window boxes is not recon-
rnended extensively except In croWded
downtown districts, apartment houses ana
hotels. where they are effective IN reneV-
ing the monotony of otherwise bare WIN
dows and verandas. A window box Is usual
" eight inches TO foot In depth, ana the
same in width. the length varying IL
should never be less than six inches deep,
and should be made of -eighths-inch
lumber. conforming In shape to the window
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-04-22

broadcioth. ends six inches from the neck,
the top being rounded and edged with dull
gold braid. The vest is crossed six times
from side to side with bronze brown silk
and gold braid, and closes down the center
with line of small bronze buttons
The revers also of the yellow cloth, are
edged, as is the collar, with the bronze
and gold braid. At the top of each rever
and at the outer corner of each end of the
collar Is a small, conventional design done
IL heavy gold bullion embroidery. these
give an air of richness and distinction to
the costume that 1t would otherwise lack.
The sleeves are gathered full at the top
end half way between the elbows and the
wrists. being shaped In neioW the einoWs.
up to and above the elbow end in points
ar the top. There are turned-baek Guns
of the yellow cloth four inches deep tnat
fare, and the tops Of which are cut IN
modified star points five points to the cum.
These are also open at the back These
are edged at their tops with gold braid
in q narrow line near the top with the
gold bullion, and at the outer corner OF
each Is bullion design similar to that on
the collar and revers
stra W hat. trimmed with folds and fuffs of
brown tulle; brown and yellow alsrettes
rise from the side front and stand up ana
out toward the back
x
Some one has asked for a simple street
castume In black wolfe suitable for half
mourning. A gown just completed for
weIi-known woman is charming. The skirt
Is circular and just escapes the pavement.
II is trimmed with four strappings of black
taffata silk. each strapping an inch wide,
ana each half or threa-quarters OF an
inch from that next 1t. These come to a
little point above the knees and give a
Spanish founce effect The girdle Is deep.
pointed and made of taffeta folds The.
Elton coat extends ever the top OF the girdle,
but escapes the waist line by. say. five
inches. 1t has set Ia around the neck and.
down the front to within four inches OF
the bottom d little vest Of white linen eni-
broidered close to the edge In tiny vine
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-04-22

yoke piece. ard taper down to an inch ana
q half under the arms This arrangement Of
paier coral red and black This blouse is
formed OF chiffon cloth uTdeTssp 70
whiehs Inef-deep krifa plaitings Of coral
red chiffon are attached these being alter
mated with irch-wide ruffies Of fine black
lace. lAbove the yoke piece. as previously
mentioned, there Is yoke OF point APP
plique over pale coral red chiffon.
The sleeves are full puffs of the chiffon
cloth covered with alternate plating of
chiffon and lace ruffies These puts end
three inches above the points of the elbows
and a tucked band of chiffon cloth four
four-inch ruffie OF black lace, the lower
edge projecting below the superimposed
three rufus. stitched to it. the two edge
ruffies being knife blade plaitingss of the
chiffon. with narrow black lace ruffie be-
tween. To wear with this costume when
used as an afternoon gown there Is black
nIohair straw hat, rather fiat In shape and
broad brfmmed. 1t has a bandeau and
cache2eigne of pale coral-coiored tulie. and
a crisp scarf of tulle laid in deep plaits
around the crown is tied at the back In q
large double knot Clusters of cherries, the
new large sort in shaded pinks, very light
in weight, are fastened at the back.
A white and black shepherds plaid wolfe
also In the wardrobe of one of the innurner
dDie SprllS DTl0eS-lS nlauS With q cOfstiet
or princess skirt with bolero The white
checks are outlined with hairlines of black.
The skirt portion escapes the ground by an
inch only, and has four tucks at the bottom.
the lowest four inches broad. the others
three, two and one inch, respectively. the
lower edge of each one escaping that next
it by eighth of an inch. These tueks
do not go all the way across the front, as
there Is panel effect down the center. the
skirt closing iTivisibly under one edge of it.
instead of in the back This panel is five
inches wide at the top. three at the waist
line and twelve inches broad at the bottom
The bolero jacket comes down over the
top of the skirt, and Is cut straight around
and to within six inches of the waist line.
1t is cut on the bias, and to the bottom of
the top sections are attached four bias
folds, with the edges overlapping These
folds form the lower half of the jacket. The
folds are of equal width, and are set onto
thin white silk lining. The bolero is closed
by large silver buttons OF which there is
one on each fold The back is Just like the
front barring the buttons. There is a lit
tie stand turnover collar at the back and
sides of the bolero. but not at the front.
This collar is of black silk-that is, the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-04-22

upper part is, and the lower half is covered
with a network of fine silver embroidered
or openwork passementerie or lace set
on over it. The top corners at the front of
the bolero are turned back, and form revers
as deep as they are broad or, In other
words, being the triangular shaped halves
of square These are of white satin edged
with a fold OF black; the white has the same
openwork silver design around its edges as
appears on the collar.
Il
The sleeves are quite full, are gathered
at the tops, and the cloth ends just below
the elbows under turned-back. slightly far
Ing cuffs, some three inches wide. of black
silk piped at the top with white These are
slashed at the back and show the silver
applique at the top and Sides Below these
come three narrow folds. bias, OF course.
OF the voille. The lower fold is an inch
wide. the upper one a quarter of an inch
and the middle one half an inch broad A
white batiste with elbow sleeves beautf-
fully embroidered and having high stock
Is to be worn under this.
An odd travelling gown in the wardrobe
of prospective bride Is in light brown
etamine. The skirt escapes the ground, is
circular at the top and has set in at the
bottom on each side four two-inch plaits.
The upper part of these plaits siants down
from the side toward the front, and straps
OF 1eaVy SILK pIdiu are laid over them,
each end being looped and fastened with
small buckle Of imitation shell. In the
center front are four scant plaits, turning
toward the center, that run from top to bot
tom and that are stitched in down to a
little above the knees.
The coat is almost tigft-fitting and has
plated skirts. The body Is cut like a
basque. slight pointed In the back ana the
front, and is outlined by a band Of the
heavy silk braid Under this the plated
skirts are attached. These plaits are pressed
invssibly. They are only ten inches deep.
The coat had q turned-down collar and
rGvers like mans coat. but the revers
extend to the waist line ana between them
lis vest. This vest, OK pale yellow chiffon
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-04-22
Neck Corsets.

A wonderful collar corset which Nine
Bernhaxdt has recently invented furnishes
a remarkable illustration of how the ia
nous actress neglects no opportunity of
improving her appearance. The corset Is
made of fine silk strong enough TO stand
the pressure and strain of constant move
menf and yet transparent too The collar
looks well and holds the saggtng neck to.
gether better than any other device. o,
course II is noticeable. but II is also orna
mental and therefore more than merel.
useful
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-04-22

falling In points over tafreta os the same
shade embroidered in large lowers. The
bolero gives a distinct empire touch. where
as the floral pattern is particularly Louis
XIV. The points are edged with the tiniest
of lace ruches. The collar. revers and
sleeve trimmings are done in Spangled POM
padour embroidery. This sensational Fra
gonard Is signed by a celebrated house In
the Rne Scribe. In spite OF earning the
opprobrium albeit of historic origin of
"damnable iteration I would like to say
just a word or two about the spring dress
fabrics. / am only too confident that the
subject has been worked overtime, but the
manufacturers are constantly tempting Us
with new materials that fairly demand at
tention. The real note of novelty is struck
by the return of crepons in wool and silk
of every smart shade. Crepon Is a useful
fabric for summer gowns, the cool weather
frock that one cannot in these days OF ex-
IRENE climatic changes well get on without
*&
Pongee and mohair will make the smart
travelling gowns of the season. trimmed
either with radium braid or folds OF tina
material. 1t is a relief from the overelab-
Grafton of the winter to see 50 many OF the
best spring suits trimmed with these folds.
which appear on jackets as well as on
skirts and In number of cases form the
entire sleeves.
There are exquisite mousselines de sole
that shade from a dark to a light tone
v
floral border Oriental silks are revived
and the new nuances are charming. But
prettiest, perhaps, of all the silks is a soft,
lustrous variety called mirage. IL has a
rather rough surface and is changeable.
shmmery shade in one light and a high
light In another. In all these silks rasp-
berry Is a favorite color. with soft green
running IL a close second. In the general
wear class of novelties should be mentioned
Egyptian CLOTH a loosely woven. soft ma
terial in a deep ecru. The newest voiles are
striped and checked. The latter design is
no longer square this year, but rectangu-
lara happy and effective relief. The cot
ton materials are of thinner texture than
and muslins. They are chiffoned whenever
and wherever ii is possible.
The Parisienne OF the moment is very
particular to match the Jewels she wears
with the spots in her eyes. A gray orbed
beauty explains: at isn't an easy matter
to match my spots, but wear a grayish
green turquoise brooch and some kind OF
blush gray metal chain Then I string
few beads of the same color. Oh, no.
l don't look like Chinese idol. Where
did get the ideal? From French spe-
cialist. It's beauty trick
The smart set" girl is a hard-worked
creature To her other accomplishments
she must add that of ordering a luncheon.
for you know NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. affairs
are the last fad of the elect. And to Sc
.lect menu up TO fashionable requirements
is an art to be learned only with careful
study Quaint and unusual restaurants are
searched for an excuse for hospitality,
but wherever the luncheon is served &c
must not exceed four courses. And, by the
way, let me add that the Partisan cup
of O'Clock tea is made with a mara
schino cherry as fiavoring.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-04-22

sear of an April bride is in pale shade
of blue. The skirt trails a little. 1t is
a circular skirt. and around the bottom
soutache braid is applied. This braid is
laid up and down the skirt eighth
OF an inch apart and in strips of ten inches
long, the lower edges come just three inches
from the edge of Abe skirt. Each end is
doubled under and forms a little quarter
inch loop. Otherwise the skirt Is perfectly
plain. The coat Is three-quarter length
and cutaway as TO skirts. The coat skirts
are absolutely plain.
at the sides, above and below the waist
line, the skirt Is laid in tiny, tapering tucks
that shape 1t In to the figure; this requires
considerable skill. as the coat Is tight-iit-
ting. The coat skirts meet at the waist line
in the center front, and from that point
separate. until at the bottom they are six
teen inches apart. Starting from the point
ut the waist line and eurving up the sides.
outlining the top and sides of the tucked
section, and then curying down toward the
center back. Is an inch-wide strapping or
pale blue panne velvet. This Is crossed at
half-ineh intervals by silk soutache braid.
Above this line of velvet strapping there is
an insertion OF heavy ecru lace, much Ike
point de Venise, this is tapered to point
IN the front and the center back and above
Il Is a second line of the velvet and SOU
tache braid. This last stripping fomes to
the arTnhole under the fGm This upper
ssrappfng outlines deep, t-shaped section
of the cloth that forms the front of the
bodice that has one single large cabochon
il steel silver. set with blue rhinesgones, at
the bottom and above this there are two
rows Of the buttons, the top OF the coat
being double breasted The coat has double
| revers finishing the top and the neck. The
| FIRST set are of the cloth. embroidered in
| forget -ne-nots and edged with the velvet,
partially covered with soutaehe braid, 70
| match the other strappings. The turned
/ down collar also forms revers at its ends,
and Is OF q darker shade of blue panne vel
vet, edged with a half-inch band OF fancy
blue silk braid the velvet collar being
| crossed by alternate strips OF this braid and
| OF soataehe, the brads being laid quarter
| of an inch apart
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-04-22

the bride. was in a Gream-colored crepe de
chine over white satin. This was also
princess or One-Diece robe. and the plain
trailing skirt had around the Bottom very
fuli rose ruching. The bodice had yoke
OF point applique, and the elbow sleeves had
hOunces OF the lace dropping over puffs of
the crepe. The gown was topped by a white
hat trimmed with white flowers and lace.
~
Miss Alice c. Adenaw, who on Thursday
married Martin Phillips Parks. son OF the
Rev. J. Lewis Parks. rector of Calvary
Church, New York, and nephew of the
Rev. DIR. Leighton Parks. rector of st.
Bartholomew also deviated from the
tine-honorer satin gown and wore a white
radium silk frock trimmed with exquisite
Mechlin lace. This silk has particularly
brilliant lustre suggestive of silver. and Is
also very soft and piable. The gown was
a shlrred princess with a deep gradu-
ated SpanIsh lounces forming the lower pa rt
OF the skirt and also the train portion.
The shirring was above below and at the
waist line. making a eorslet effect, broken
in the front or rather yelled by the upper
part or the Mechlin lace panel.
q.
The yoke OF the gown was of point lace
and was a deep affair, edged with scant.
nerrow-frill effect. also OF point lace. The
Mechlin lace scarf used as the panel for
the center front was about twelve inches
wide at the bottom, and was shirred in the
waist line to about three inches. the upper
end being arranged in a soft knot and cas-
cade effect at the bust line. A spray OF
Orangc blossoms was fastened careiessly
against this knot.
The Spanish founee did not cross the cen
ter front panel section of the skirt; al
the top the blouse began just at or above
the knees. and in the back formed the train.
The sleeves, OF elbow length were OF tho
sllk and had point-lSee effects.
The bridal veil was "a long scarf of old
point lace arranged to show the front and
sides of the couture. and was caught with
natural orange blossoms. Instead OF flow
ers the bride carried an ivory prayer book
The maid OF honor, Miss Alice Grant
Smith OF Phiiadeiphia. was frocked much
N;-F e Bridesmaids. but, her frock was
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-04-22

wrists. then comes a turned hack cuff of
blue velvet In a shade matching the collar.
These are edged with the fancy silk braid
and are crossed lengthwise by sontache
braid an eighth of an inch apart. These
cuffs fare little. are five inches deep at
the outside by three and half at the inner
seams The under blouse is of pale-blue
chiffon cloth trimmed with insertions OF
lace to match that In the coat; Is trimmed
with the fancy silk braid and Is deliberately
tucked. 1t has elbow sleeves. ard lace cuffs
half way to the wrists and stock of the
same lace.
A simple and practical coat for travelling
or for general wear when a more elaborate
garment is not required Is of blush gray
cloth. having smooth finish. 1t is cut to
come below the knees. ana has immense
cape sleeves, The tops of the sleeve sec
tons extend half way from the top of the
arms to the neck, and are laid in half-iach
tucks each side of the shoulder seam, so
that they are smooth on the shoulders; from
the edge Of the shoulders they hang Ia folds
at the outside. When the arms drop at the
sides these cape sleeves extend in the CEN
ter to The tips of the fingers. From this
point, however. they round up in circular
fashion to the body. so that they are really
side arm capes instead of closed sleeves.
Like the coat they are lined with much
paler shade of gray silk
The garment has round neck finished
at the edge by three rows of soutaehe braid
of the same color. 4 four-inch shaped band
of dark-gray velvet is cut to tit the neck
and extends from each shoulder seam down
some five inches on the front, each end be-
ing cut to form a V, the V, however, being
outlined on the cloth instead of being of
the velvet. In each of these outlined VS.
there Is large fiat velvet button. Inserted
down the front of the coat to little below
the bust line Is a vest some five inches
wide of extremely pale-gray velvet embroid-
cred in fine dark gray silk cord in grapes
and the outline of grape leaves. This vest
is pointed at the bottom and closes lnyisfbly
by hooks. Twelve rows of soutache braid
In two groups. the groups two inches apart
and the lines of braid an eighth of an inch
apart. cross the fronts of the coat just
above and at the bust line. This garment is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-04-22

The fliii coat sleeves are gathered at the
top. and at the outside; the elbows are lsis
in QuarEer-inch tucks half way 70 the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-04-22

The coat had turned-dow Collar and
revers like mans coat. but the revers
extend TO the waist line. ana between them
IL a vest This vest, OF pale yellow chiffon
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1906-02-16
He Knew Lincoln.

81 'spose," said the old man on the rear
platform OF the street ear-"I 'spose I'm
; the only man around here who knew Abe
Lincoln during his lifetime, and the fact
! II one feel proud Of.
; Where did you know him7" asked a fat
man, who looked like a man who'd spoil
a good story whenever he could.
'+Out In Michigan"
But he naver lived in, Michigan"
We'll, knew him when be was In
the lumber business. Come TO- think OF
IT. guess he WIS living in Wisconsin"
But he was never In the lamber busi-
ness. and never lived In Wisconsin,
Then It was when he was a doctor in
Minnesota"
"He was never doctor, and never lived
, In Minnesota"
''DO you mean to tell me-" demanded
the old man, as he bTistled up, that
Abe Lfncola and me- didp't draw sawiOgs
to the same mill in IpwsT'
Il do. he never lived IN Iowa
And that we didn't husk corn to-
Eether in DhkOtaT'
Dakota had ne Germ to husk in bis
tine" was the steady reply.
''Thep I'm a HaF, am -IT'
Yes. SIR, That Is, you, have perhaps
got Lincoln and Jones mixed up. lust
think it over for a minute
The old man scfatehed his head and
The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1906-02-16
BIRD Freak. For Uncle Sam.

Twelve OF New Zealand's most inter.
estlng birds and four lizards, represent.
ing the only creatures Of their age re-
naming in the world, have been pre-
scented by New Zealand TO the United
States and are now on the steamship
Sierra on their way TO the government
zoo at Washington, says a San Fran.
cisco dispatch to the Chicago Tribune
New Zesland's gift includes four HIVES
four Maori hens, four kea parrots and
four tenatara lizards. The kiwe is q
winglesS and taiTless bird whose feath-
ers are used IN making nantes worn
by Maori chiefs. The kea parrot is a
bird weighing five pounds and is such
a pest in its native country that re-
ward is offered by the government 70
induce its extinction. The tenatara liz
ara is about thirty inches long and is
the oaly known survival OF its race in
he world.