The Birmingham age-herald., 1906-10-18

The Plain Tailored Shirt Is Prom
 inent-Men's shirtings Much Tn
 Vogue-CIever Touches of Nov
 elty-Dressy Examples Become M More and More Extravagant-
 Fine Net BIouses With Colored
 Slips Beneath-stiH Collars and
 Cuffs Are Back Agnin-The Mat
 ter of Neck Dressings -- The
 Cefnturc Vexed Question. With the return of the severely plain tailor-made for autumn wear the equally plain and severe tailored shirtwaist-the smart dressers refer to it as short. and have 1t made by n masculine shrtmaker t--is thrustlng itself quite into the fore front of things It Is not so very different, this plain and severe shirtwaist, from what 1t has been in the past. Pretty much the same lines and the same materials appear, a- though the search for some welcome lit- tie novelty to introduce by way of relief goes on unabated.
 One sees the perfectly plain cut with mo more fitness to 1t than a mans shirt upon which it is modelled, presents. Others again, equally ''tailor-made" in appear .ance, present a number of pleats us a relief, and yokes are relied upon to break the monotony of the style.
 { Linen is in high favor for such pur- sposes, both the heavy German weave and the finer round thread linens of Irish manufacture. The old reliable standbys, the cotton cheviots-now there Is introduced a cotton serge as well-and the madras weayes, fine gnghams and the usual imported Scotch shlrtings, are all on view, as well as some of the daintiest Fdamasse effects in either white or deli cate tints, with a tiny figure in con- ,trasting color printed the surface at far intervals
 most favorable attention, in spite of their prfce-they are some $2 yard in the 3O-fnch widths. Orders have been given to one smart shlrtmaker-he makes for men chiefly, but does not scorn the orders of feminine patrons by any means-for half-dozens of these, In different tints, and the monogram of the owner to be wrought In cotton threads the color of the figure that appears in the design. For example, pale pink is damasse In a moire surface, and at far intervals there is q tiny f1eur-de-ls, s,conventionalized, of course, In a soft almond green. The monogram is worked on the little watch pocket in a green cotton the same tint ns the feur-de-lis. contrasting prettily with the delicate pink that makes the background With such shirts there are stocks and belts made up to match all though the use of white linen stocks and belts, embroidered en suite, Is counte- nanced by clever dressers for wear with the colored blouses that are undoubtedly giving the white waists a tussle for premier place in, fashionable ranks.
 Passing to the more elaborate style of blouse, where that much oyerworked word ''lingerie' is used descriptively, if not expressively, 1t is to be noted that recent lmportations In these are invariably fash toned with full-length sleeve and a most elaborate finish. that hangs far down over the hand, reaching we'll to the knuckles at least On this side we are .cinging to the comfortable if not al- ways slightly, elbow sleeve, and manufac- turers are going on gaily putting in this abbreviated arrl-covering in all but the plainest of shirtwaists. The moment that even a hint of lace or elaboration gets on a blouse the sleeve gets chopped off short, and 1t joins the procession of Iin- gerie waists.
 Just at this writing, in the lull that comes between the close of one season and the opening of the other, one can find exquisite examples of embroideries of nil sorts wherewith to manufacture charm ing little blouses. There are pattern waists, done on the finest of handkerchief linen, on both cotton and linen batiste and some on sheer nainsook. Technically they are known as French embroideries, but the most of them are of Irish origin, where the peasantry are skilled in needle work of more kinds than the tourist ever sees or the summer ''tripper" discovers.
 Just now these may be purchased for fraction of what was demanded for them a few short weeks ago, and with an illus traitor to work from even a seamstress of moderate skill can make them up In short order. Odd lengths, too, of em- broideries and laces are being offered at the most tempting prices. One woman whose taste Is as boundess as her purse Is slender takes her seamstress along when bound on bargain tour. The lit