The Birmingham age-herald., 1906-10-28

tive with a fur coat today-it Is really quite a pretty and becoming affair for the small girl, without encountering an un- due cost either
 When one comes to consider the realm of the tallor-made, the infinite variety of styles that the tailor presents begins to be a bit bewiderlng. There is abso- lutely no one model, or class of models, that may be said to reign. One sees short etons, both loose and fitted There are the smart little pony jackets that are ca pablo of infinite variation. Short coats of Empire persuasion, too, are evident; while as for the long coats, one sees them of all shapes and sizes and lengths, fit ted, semifitted and loose. and everything in this line, from n redingote that dis plays the figure accurately to burnous that envelopes 1t fin soft and mysteriously disguising folds.
 The vogue that attends the plain cloth coat topping plalded skirt seems bound to continue, if one is to judge by the number that are to be displayed during the coming weeks. All sorts of pretty though sober shades in broadcloth or In velyeteen are employed for the coat. and the skirt plaid repeats the coat color In It's dominant note.
 Some of the fitted coats are really trife suggestive of horse and habit use. Charming cutaways, with most elabor- ate waistcoat inserted to take away the slight reproach of mascullnity, are af- fected by some of the cleverest and most fastidious dressers. They reproduce much of the effect of the masculine cutaway. bur the glossy cloth the smart waistcoat, and the use of elaborate trimmings make 1t an essentially feminine production.
 The chiffon yelveteens, and even cordu- roys, are view In some charming shades. For the younger generation they are vastly liked In sensible colorings: braided with several widths of tressed strands, from a soutache up to four-lnch width. Plaid brads find favor here. and in the darker colored costumes they show up to delightful advantage
 Luncheon is quite an important func- ton during the horse week, and as an adjournment to the Garden Is always en rege afterwards, the gownlng for the midday meal is important The more elaborate styles prevail In the afternoons. Carriage cloaks and toilettes are much to be seen, and the charming extrava- RunCeS ludl cHdTHcterlHt lHe CurrenI uOue disclose themselves here to projection.
 Chiffon velvet, In delicate shades and colorings, appears to an added advantage when associated with picturesque chap eau and dainty ostrich or marabout boa. The nun en sulGe Is usually carried, too; not for warmth, but rather for appear ances. The greater part or these dainty little muffs-only the best of them are In fashfnnnd p,fuua bn al down lining, so that they are really quite suitable for present as well as for future use.
 In strong contradistlnction to the gowns of the morning sessions, those of the afternoon are fashioned with the skirts en traine, and there Is usually a more or less transparent top 10 the cor sage. Lace Is abundantly used on the later styles in corsages, and hand em- broideries in bold and we'll defined pat terms decorate both bodice and skirt
 Several novel materials-that Is they are novel this year-are being pushed by many. One is poplin. which we have had several times before, but 1t always comes back with some new feature to commend il. The late ones, however, are seen mostly In sober, if not sombre color ings; and velvet is usually the garniture selected for this colleen poplin when fashioned for the elder members of so- ciety. Chenille embrolderies, too, appear on this favored fabric, and a touch or two of Irish crochet is quite appropriate.
 The short sleeve and the long glove still maintain for dressy purposes; but in morning gowns they are being replaced by the more sensible and suitable full length arm covering. Transparent half sleeves that match the yoke or corsage top in materials and make display them selves on some of the pretty afternoon gowns, especially on those of crepe de chine-which is now offered in what are known as tailor welghts-ottoman, mar veilleux-another silk that Is resurrectei from oblivion-and messaine.
 Some of the restaurants for workmen In Paris are conducted strictly on hy- gienic principles. Even the napkins are not put into rings and allowed to touch, but are put Into marked pigeon holes, and each laborer gets his own on enter ing.