davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1906-03-25

day even simple. snDrr-s4,lrt9d d walk x
gown. costume trotteur, costs $50 There
is consolation in the fact hat tie shops
keeping awfully goud-lookins suits n
moderate price.
The princess silhouette, which is indicated
in two-thirds of the skirts and COals rt the
moment, has made the Ceiltlirc of HttlC ac-
count Yet there are any number OF women
who pride themselves on their chic WHO &
terly refuse to part with the belt under any
consideration. Such women kno% -l.e value
of a weil-chosen belt as a !inish 10 thc rns-
tune, whether it be the simple SKIRT md
blouse arrangement which is Completed -
a smart patent leather or SUEDE belt OF the
gala toilet finished with aee9-Swd' Hed
Louis XVI corset ceiuture. And for these
devotees there are few coats that DO net
admit of belt being worn To hold he hg
ure at the back and sides. The belt rHd
the wearing of it are points Ia whtc1 one
must work ont ones own mOdisiic salvation
and be guided by instinct. If instinct tc.ls
us We look best when well Hel;ed II IS
right, depend upon II, iTrespectiv. cf The
promptings of fashion. At present we are
bent upon keeping the lines of the figure uH-
broken, and. given an trTeprodcLab.. cut
and good figure, 'tis a contamination de-
voUtly to be wished. Certain 3f the priu.
cess corselet skirts have upward lines ot
braiding or embroidery moldtag hips and
skirt, but the effect is not pleasing.
Rumor has gone forth that there ara
positively left in the land women who are
wise enough to admit themselves elderly
fashions suited to the phase. AS a matter
of fact, despite the disposition Of late years
to ignore advancing age, the years between
siXty-five and eighty can be rendered az
sartorially satisfactory, if met I'm a sym
pathetic spirit, as sweet seventeen. Tho
real art of making old lady's dress
success lies In having IL light as pos
s!ble. To avoid the weight of plaits at
tIactive trimming affected, with a tablie1-
carried out in simulated tucks.
It is very seldom that { figure lost 10 all
it's youthful proportions whether 1t be thin
or inclined to embonpoint, can carry OF
successfully a peri city plain bodice. There
should be broken lines, and the most et-
fective those brought about with hchu
effects that impart length TO the stout ana
breadth to the slim and shrunken. little
plcturesqueness goes O long way toward
Disgusting physical defects Another fatal
mistake frequently made Is leaving eX-
posed that telltale portion of the anatomy
the neck. The ordinary high collar is not
enough to soften the lines. What is needed
is a full ruche to hide natures unkindneSs.
This ruehe may be either of white chiffon.
net or lace plated very fine put on in a
double or single row according to fancy.
Then in connection with caps welcome
sign OF artistic sense is the return OF the
graceful lappet ends. The nhnlteslmai
Whisps of lace and ribbon hat have been
doing duty for these headdf esses have been
repaced by the mantilla o. soft old tinted
ace with the ends broue at forward over
tha shoulders. So graceful and becoming
Is this arrangement that II Will appeal 20
all right minded old ladies'
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star., 1906-03-25

charming costume of pompaaour white SILK
figured, and with back satin strips ept
as to form downward turning VS. On he
bodice and upward turned VS. ou the eea-
ter front. back and sisles OF the SKIRT. IL
was In d one piece effect with elbow sleeves
and was trimmed with six-inch lace -uffiss
galore Mrs. Benjamin. who IS big aud
blonde. looked extremely well In 4
Miss Jessica Thompson. who took the part
of the Chicago niece in the little playlet
six TO One, or. The Scapegrace" at this
amateur performance wore one of the
most effective frocks II was scarlet
chiffon cloth. with the bodice cut with a
Dutch neck. outlined with white lace. the
material being shirred around the square
neck opening. large puffs formed the elbow
sleeves. The skirt was a round length.
and made UP of three deep fiounces. the top
one being tucked or plated in TO the figure.
The girdfe was also scarlet
\ Miss Henrietta King who was the
French niece wore pale orEandy with
blue figures in duh shades. the general
tone being a faded or Watteau blue. Miss
King Is exceedingly slim, and the very
fun skirt was gathered once only at the
top, the bottom being tucked There was
a deep girdle of blue silk ribbon with
It's width all above the waist line, and
the bodice itself was gathered very full
with lace stock and yoke, loose V
shaped tab extensions of the yoke hang
ing over the bodice nearly 10 the top of
the gfrdle. The sleeves were full crisp
puffs of the organdy. finished with lace
bands and ruffles over long white gloves.
The hats and cistumes worn by the
Misses Virginia Duane and AEce Fellowes
in Dohsons Secrets of the Heart one
of his Proverbs in Porcelain We're
charming. They were of course old-tlme
effects with short skirts, panniers, and
wide-brimmed hats with strings. one had
a bodice. sleeves and jupe of mauVe silk
over petucoat and Y underbodice of white
and the other was in blue and pink. The
large fiat hats We're pushed back from
their forebeads; the mauve chapeau had
pfnkish mauve roses under the right brm,
and long mauve strings hung loose at the
sides, the ends being brought carelessly
across the front of the robe. The other
hat. not SO wide al the sides and there
fore projecting further over the front. was
in pale blue chip with pink roses under
the brim and its ends were brought around
under the chin and loosely knotted.
MARIE WELDON.
Evening star., 1906-03-25

ocption, but the few specimens that ara in
evidences have come TO us ON the wings Of
the wind which Is guiding fashions bark
TIE art nouveau jewellers are working
hard to create an interest In the classical
bandeaox and jeweIed ear tasseis that re-
call the days of Cleopatra. At reception
the oiher evening | saw a Wonderful cx-
ample of this art nouveau on the head OF a.
russian singer. II was a band of fligree
silver worn low down on the forehead Al
either side. just below the ears, were disks.
OF the same set with seed pearls Prom
these disks depended several chains of
pearls and three or four tassels finished of
with baroque pearls.
OF course this curious leeasfdress could
only be worn by special women. The fair
Russian proved ore of the chosen Her
reddish hair was dressed quite simply be-
ing drawn becomingly up to the top of Esr
head, with a bunch of curis Islling We'll
forward over the handeau BY the way,
this songstress from the czar's realm had u.
dehciously pure contralto voice and accom-
panied herself while standing at The piano.
This pose was a new departure but very
successful one The accompaniment was
very simple and very soft. something iikc a
ripple that holsters up a recitation. and her
hands seemed unconsci0usly 20 touch thu
notes. 1t is doubtful whether this rtEle of
accompaniment would suit ,Ev save thC
weirdly melancholy Sav sOESs hut in this
instance nothing more sustained vas re-
quired. The whole effect was unmist GS a 2. =
fascinating
Eressmakers and ,nitners. too. are -
lofty in their prices that even the wcutthlset 1
patrons have to think minute before l7ir-
/ chasing a longed-for article IN orl.r mot %
commit the folly Of CxtrlvlgarCa. u-tl
lately most women could manage ono euv n
a year at least from good make. Tl <
dress was copied and tmi,at n in y yaTtt y
of ways in other costumes and IN ms
manner was worth the 500 paii .cr ii To-
Evening star., 1906-03-25
America Holds the "areat Key"

From Everybody's Magazine
A Panama canal scandal crippled the
French nation and marked 1t with disgrace
of which the stain Will be visible for many
a generation. The possibility of such 8
scandal confronts the people Of the United.
States and will confront them for at least
a decade. Yet the United States mtfst build
the canal 1t is unthlnkabie that another
nation should dig it and control it, The
Germans, alert to move In, imperturbably
slow in moving out, sit in every South
American and Central American port. wait
ing, waiting. smilingly placid. The regenerat-
ed Japanese, having struck right hands
with the British. watch with cold, orr
entail eye for the moment when they may
reach out the left hand and wrest away
Ersglands grip on the commerce Of the
world. We hold the great key. 1t is not
well that we quarrel over 1t among our
selves
IF the big task is started with honestly
with well-eonsidered plan, and with a
fair economy of resources, the American
public should offer all It's help and encour-
agement. If mistakes are being made. the
correction of them should be set about so
bei-ly and earnestly. If there have been
bad faith and wrong-dealing, Il is just that
exposure should come swiftly.
Evening star., 1906-03-25
Special correspondence Of The. star.

NEW YORK March a. 1906.
WY FEDDINGS in Lent are rather
novelty and are almost always
AAt celebrated at the home of the
WV bride instead of q church,
concession to the spirit of Lent
In the avoidance of all pomp and ceremony.
This. however, does not mean that the
wedding gowns are not quite as rich and
beautiful as though they were TO be parad-
ED ,gp and down the aisle of a fashionable
church to delight the eyes of hundreds OF
.-ual acquaintances as well as intimate
friends
ON Tuesday last there was the wedding OF
Miss Evelyn SchIey daughter of MIR. ana
Mrs Grant b. Schley of Morristown and
New York. to Max Howell Behr. son OF
Nh and Mrs Herman Behr 1t took place
iu tue 5th avenue town house of the
S~hleys and the gowns. among the most
beautiful and artistic of their kind. We're
white and yellow the bride OF course. ard
her maid of honor being in white and the
bridesmaids in golden yellow
The bride, who is slight and petite, was in
ag empire robe of white tulle, covered par
TALLY with a flight Of butterflies. over
rfgHt-ftling slip of white liberty satin.
The stock and yoke We're of point an-
plfgue and claspng the bust. forming the
empire girdie in both the front and the
Evening star., 1906-03-25

effect of point lssse laid Ia surpifce effect
Al corolet OF white roses with stin ends OF
slanting out toward the back WAS the head
dress
4 Mrs Henry CietEs has several times were
= hair colfure decoration that has been
varionsiy and always Inaccurateiy de-
ecrfbed The effect is of tiny corones
bow of black velvet. from which a long
white aigrette starts little to the right of
to the left. following the outline of its shape
to the back. This plume lies quite near the
couture. and while odd, and perhaps not
as admirable as some of the coiHure orna-
ments Mrs. Ciews wears. Is still attractive
and in no way outre. One of her evening
robes is of velvet in pure light purple.
sometimes termed heiictrope. and with no
hint of pink, mauve or violet. Indeed. Its
shade is quite unusual and decidedly beau
tifui The top is cut square and hufs of
tulle are placed around the top. The sleeves
are slightly pointed. the points falling be-
low the elbows, and are of flimy chiffon.
Under them. little above the elbows. and
with the effect of an upward turned point
on each arm is rilching of chiffon. In
order to obtain this effect there Is prob
ably an almost tight-shaped arm shoul
der cap of tulle or chiffon to which this
ruching is attached, and the upper sleeves
fall over it. At a distance the skirt seemed
to be perfectly plain. There is princess
effect to the gown.
Mrs. Arthur Iselin, who was Miss Eleanor
Jay, a descendant in straight line from
the famous John Jay. wore at one of the
latest operatic performances at the Metro
politan fetching frock in pale blue.
The material was some sort of glsten-
ing silk. probably liberty satin. The sleeves
were a series of Elizabethan pufrs three to
each sleeve between shoulder curve and
elbow, and these stood ont from the arm
with distinct spaces between them, and
Evening star., 1906-03-25
corselet Gown of Black Panne Velvet.


with these tucks, but as l frankly detest
empire style for the street | find this trim
ming out OF place. Apropos OF walking,
the feminine pedestrians in the Bois are
doing, as you say in America. few
stunts In the trotting line. They move"
along In some mysterious way-it cannot be
called walking, and floating sayors of
the supernatural, but moving really de-
scribes the action most accurately.
A subdued note of black velvet Is mode
of the day after tomorrow. This very
chic note Is charmingiy carried out on a
gown of palest gray chiffon evolved in the
folded blouse of gray crepe de chine. and
the corselet skirt has at the back two long
straps of cloth which cross over the
shoulders and button down the front Of the
skirt Just below the waist line These
straps are about four inches wide and
edged on each side with narrow line of
black velvet. A tie of two-inch velvet is
draped from the shoulder seams of the
blouse and crosses In x effect at the
top of the cloth bodice. There are soft
puffs of gray chiffon from the shoulder to
elbow and beyond them extremely tight
.snitten sleeves which hang over the
wrists and fall in half moons over the
hands.
Sheath skirts are going to be with US
again this spring. Indeed. might with
truth go farther and say that the ..eelskin
dressS5s already within sight. On the stage
and at some of the ultra-fashionable en-
tertainments lately have appeared remark
able gowrs loaded with gltttering pafllettes.
These .jupes are skin-tight from the waist
to knees, at which point they flare ex-
travagantly TO the hem At the moment
froeks of this variety are the notable ex-
Evening star., 1906-03-25

friils of lace or chiffon falling over the ell
bows. These sleeves, to keep the shape
and stiffness of their puffs. must either be
wired or stiffened, otherwise they would be
ridiculously limp.
The bodice had bolero effect In chiffon
and lace coming from the under-arm seams
and running up to the top of the corsage in
It's center, the parting between the bolero
sizes IN the center being an inverted or up
ward turning point that showed the eorsage
proper OF tight fitting satin that described
deep point on the full skirt The outline
around the neck was rounded square. In
Her colIure was a wreath OF iyy-shaped
metal and jeweled leaves in green and Sill
yer Mrs. Iselin has gained in beauty since
her marriage
"A handsome evening gown made by a
new York modiste for Palm Beach din
Iiers and dances Is an apricot-colored chif-
ION cloth The corsage is cut square
ana not very low. 1t Is outlined by three
cora shirrings. the cords being quite large
anu an men and quarter apart. The ma
terial or the shirred top is cream net with
lace bouncing, the top part being plain net
ana the lower two-thirds of Lace forming a
bertha fiounce that falls straight across
the top to the top of the girdle and goes
over the shoulders forming caps to the
chifron sleeves. The net of the sleeves
mas Two cords running through it just
above the heavy part of the lace, and this
latter forms the sleeve fiounces to the ell
bows The undersleeves are simple puffs
OF the chiffon cloth that fill out the net
puff
The bodice proper is shirred at the top
under the lace. and again at the gtrdIe
line to a tight-fitting lining. The girdle
Is moderately deep-shaped affair Of the
chiffon cloth, embroidered In the dull
green leaf design mentioned the leaves
rising to the top and descending to the
lower edge on the deep point of the front
The skirt has a petticoat effect in front,
where the full length fiounce of the lace
having a net top as far as the knees and
the lower half In lace pattern. forms a.
wide panel or petticoat. This section Is
twelve inches wide at the top and widens
to twenty at the bottom. 1t is shirred in
fine shirs a half inch apart for some seven
or eight inches below the waist line. The
lace and leaves of the lower half are
brought out in the greens and apricot
shades already mentioned, and under the
lace Is plain panel of white silk with
an accordion plated chiffon ruffie at the
bottom. The sides of the oyerdress or
jupe extend over this panel and are fastened
to 1t six inches back from the extreme
edges of the overlapping Sides This jupe
Is of apricot chiffon. shrred several times
at the top and having around Its lower
and outer edge a seven-inch fiounce OF the
lace headed by box ruching of apricot
pink liberty satin ribbon. The sides over
tapping the panel are embroidered on the
outside in green leaves and are faced with
pale apricot colored liberty satin matching
the plating on the skirt This could be
easily carried out In chiffon cloth or fig
ured organdie and Lferre lace with plain
satin accessories.
Evening star., 1906-03-25

xXE HAT with the exhibition or
Nv paintings in the fashionable
NAE clubs and at the well-known
wv picture dealers, such as Durand-
Ruel and Georges Petit. with
dinners. the theater and the opera. our
week book has been pretty well filled up
and the day no longer suffices for all We
want to do Yet we are barely in March.
What will it be later on when everybody is
In town, when neither the Riviera nor AL
.iers attracts US. and we have not the
Cuse of Lent as a pretext for refusing inVl-
tations? 1t will probably be nervous pros
tration lurking behind every door we open
or shut. And the Inevitable solution will be
the rest cure in June. with long hours of
enforced silence spent lying on a couch
looking out on some fine mountain view IN
Switzerland. The eXpiation Is not dreadful
enough to deter any of us from amusing
ourselves now and we certainly do manage
to get good time out of the present.
After a morning spent in some congenial
occupation small lnncheons begin our day.
1t is the correct thing for the young matron
to drive with her children. accompanied by
a German or English governess. in her
motor car toward IL o'clock. 1t is almost
the only time in the day when these society
mothers see their children or have an OPP
portunity of listening to their delightful
prattle, for they must be home at half
past H. dress and be ready for a luncheon
party OF SIX or eignt covers at Ia lubcneoH
which 1t is now the custom to serve a
lAnglaise, a few dishes served rapidly
Pretty cloth dresses bordered with fur and
worn with short richly embroidered boleros
are the proper things for such occasions
although sometimes an empire robe in soft.
fine light colored cloth is an exception, but
the really elegant woman refuses to wear
these loose garments during the day. The
jupe princess is. however, a fayorite. made
high like a corselet reaching just above the
bust over this is the short bolero which
hangs quite loose as a smart contrast to the
tight-itting skirt. The effect Is stunning
and sets off the figure to great advantage
4 smart gown of the corselet genre worn
recently by a very swagger woman was o.
black paune with braces and girdle of silver
and chenille embroidery over a blouse of
Irish lace
On nine out of ten of the smart walking
skirts one finds wide tucks or bias folds
arranged to look like tucks. Often they
reach from waist to hem and of uni
form width-four or five inches have
seen several empire walking gowns made
Evening star., 1906-03-25

ries are attached that they may be re-
moved and laundered and others attached.
TO wear with this there is a simple blouse
of heavy but fine white linen, with plain
back and elbow sleeves ending In inch-wide
embroidered bands and two-inch ruffies of
yalencieuneS lace. The stock Is composed
OF alternate bands of lace and embroidery,
with lace rufiie at the top, and the blouse
closes down the center front under an Inch
wide band of embroidered line, from which
a two-inch rutfie of the valenciennes lace
forms a cascade jabot from top to bottom.
Each of the side fronts of this blouse is
laid In quarter-inch hand tucks slauting
downward from the side seams and arm
holes.
A round sailor hat in white chip to go
with this costume, has plain crown band,
a six-loOp bow at the left back of blue Vet-
vet ribbon and a bandeau covered with
yellow tule rosettes.
The passing of the opera season means
the passing also OF the greatest sartorlai
pageant OF the winter for the general pub
lie for while the crowds at the Metro
politan Opera House were drawn thither
for the music many women have frankly
admitted that the spectacle or the parterre
boxes filled with gorgeousiy goWned ana
jeweled women afforded them no small
amount OF enjoyment and proved great
attraction.
one OF the women most often seen in the
parterre boxes and who was always well
gowned, although by no means always
guyiy, was Mrs. Lawrence Townsend. who
has spent the winter In New York, but who
will soon return to London, as MI Town
send has held for several years a diplo-
matte position abroad
Mrs Henry Clews is another of the women
who are always tastefully costumed. Mrs.
Pembroke Jones and Mrs. Stuyvesant Fish
have appeared in some superb creations.
the former once in princess robe of gold
brocade of unusual richness yet simplicity
OF line.
I Mrs John Jacob Astor's evening frocks
are beautiful. She looks especially well In
black velvet and in pale gray tulle. Now
and then. in fact nearly every evening,
some one or two OF the young girls or
matrons would brighten the parterre boxes
with scarlet. turauois or vivid green
robe. Mrs. James w. Gerard wore one Of
the latter shade In velvet that was ex-
auisite Miss Elizabeth Cutting and Miss
anita Peabody were among those In scar
let while the brilliant blues We're worn by
Mrs Cornelius Vanderbilt. Miss Mills. Miss
Trsyor and others. This list is most incom-
;2lete and merely Includes the names that
occur at the moment. A number of the
debutantes were faithful TO pure white, and
Miss Sadie Jones was one of these. her
frocks and hairdressing being one of the
best possible examples OF what the French
deem appropriate to the teune file
Evening star., 1906-03-25
Similarly Situated.
From pnek.

FFflm PUCK.
Perhaps | am not warranted la saying II.
being as am only an innocent bystander.
a mere passer-by, who has no part in the
row" grimly observed the Grizzled Baehe-
ought to tell what the bridegroom ate for
breakfast, the same as they do wnen Q
man is hanged
Evening star., 1906-03-25

Miss Anna Leary. who was given the title
of countess by the pope. in recognition OF
her work among the poor, was seen at a
recent evening function in white satin. The
sleeves of the gown were arranged In three
full puffs that stood out quite stiffiy from
the arms. and which were rather flat, meas
ured lengthwise from shoulder to arm. The
bodice had a lace stock and waisteoat