Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-10
Beconingness is Last
Word of Fashion

Becomingness and not conventionalfty Is
the prominent feature Of the seasons MILL
merry. The up-to-date hat must not be COM
monplace either In shape or trimming. And
as an evidence Of the getting away from
old forms, trimming is now arranged on the
right as well as on the traditional left side
when better effect is to be gained in this
way. Then there Is less freakishness about
the new models-byims have not the exag-
gerated tilt they had last winter, but frame
the face In a soft. becoming fashion. Small
hats are worn in the morning trimmed
with wings, breasts and smart cartwheel
rosettes OF velvet or ribbon. but quilts are
rarely used except on Scotch caps and Peter
Pan toQues. Dressy afternoon creations are
adorned with magnificent ostrich plumes
often reaching down to the shoulders but
rather loosely curled. as are all the smart
feathers. Roses and punches of grapes also
add Their beauty to the dressy chapeau.
The hats illustrated are good examples of
the milliner's art. The russell brown beaver
is very chic with its scarf of ruby chiffon
and panache of shaded brown feathers
model with a brim Of corded taffeta and
shaded plumes. Charming. too Is the pic
ture hat with long white ostrich plume
dropping over the brim and chou Of pale
blue velvet resting on the hair.
Soft felt and beaver hats trimmed with
stiff wings. ribbon or velvet bows are most
attractive this season, and are to be seen
both in light and dark colors-color, by the
way, playing an all-important part in this
seasons millinery. The stiff, bright-col-
ored wings might puzzle an ornithologist
to decide to what manner of bird they be-
longed, but Dame Fashion does not hold to
the belief that nature unadorned Is always
the most desirable. and the aid of bright
colors furnished by the dyer's art often
produces more satisfactory colored plum
age than the original There are not many
hats with trimmings of the same color, a
twist of velvet in some sharp contrast and
a large bow at the side. if bright wings are
not used, being thought very smart. Both
velvet and ribbon bows play an all-impor-
tant part in trimmings, and 1t Is marvellous
how many different effects are secured by
the clever arrangement of rosette, cockade
or a mass of stiff bows piled one on top of
the other and covering the entire side OF
the hat.
In larger shapes velvet hats are to be
seen made over both stiff and soft founda-
lions. Many of the brims are turned down
in the mushroom effect, as it is called. but
this is not to be rashly recommended, as
the shape is a very trying one. 1t is still
fashionable to have trimming beneath the
brim, and. indeed. there are many hats
which appear to have more trimming I'M
derneath the brim than on the hat itself
Masses OF malines in which are half-hidden
sprays ard plumes fill In the space between
the hat and the hair that even the fash
ionably full couture has failed to do, while
often stiff wings or ostrich tips are placed
at the side and back under the brim.
Ostrich feathers are more fashionable
than ever. and there is no limit to the
length that is used. Placed around the
crown and dropping down to the shoulders
is not considered too exaggerated. and the
fullest OF feathers are in great demand.
There is again note Of the picturesque in
these feather-trimmed shapes the droop-
ing brim and the long feather having more
than a mere resemblance to old English
prints of the demure maid and matron,
while the always becoming and popular
Gainsborough is also represented both in
the black and colored velvet or soft beaver
hats The long black plume and the pink
and yellow rose, half hidden in the folds of
malines.. appeal frresistibly to almost every
woman, and the only danger is that the
style will become too popular. especially -