The San Francisco call., 1906-04-08

feathers. high in the heel, with tops of
navy blue, embroidered in the self-same
color.
The Pretty Spring Coats.
Mrs. Longworth who came back from
her tour looking very charming, wore
the other day little shopping suit
which quite mirrors the new spring
style for the contrasting coat and skirt.
The skirt was a pavement gray, rather
deeper than the usual tone of pavement,
and the coat was a pale gray, one of
those little separate coats which are so
pretty always, and which make the
figure so youthful This little separate
coat can best be described as natty,
for it makes the figure look neat around
the waist and jaunty, and it has the
merit of always suiting the occasion.
1t can be worn with almost anything.
The little spring coats are divided
into three separate styles, all equally
smart The most popular is the little
pony coat, which is short and straight
in the front The back is close-fitting
and there are sometimes neat little side
pockets, but the pony is generally cut
without pockets and is made with the
straight front effect, unbroken by cross
lines.
The pony coat is a little English coat
and its trimming usually consists of
braid put on in English fashion, run
ming straight up and down. Its lines
are unbroken and the effect is that of
making one taller. The most particular
thing about the pony coat, from Dame
Fashions point of view, is the length,
which must be exact. The coat must
be just the right depth over the hips
or the effect is spoiled If too short
it looks bobby; if too long, it is dowdy.
To get 1t just right requires the prac-
ticed eye of an expert tailor. Just
over the hips" is the rule.
A very popular little coat is the sum-
mer blazer. The blazer comes out new
this year. This season it is made with
out a collar and with a fiat band ap-
piled to the neck, extending down the
front in rever fashion. The coat is
short, scarcely hip length, and it is cut
away in the front so that it has no
fastenings at all, being merely a little
open front coat with sides flying. STILL
in spite of its careless appearance, IL
is smart little coat and one that has
the respect Of those who aim to dress
well.
Gertrude Vanderbilts Gowns.
Miss Gertrude Vanderbilt, who is the
leading debutante of the year, as well
as societys richest girl wears little
peach colored cloth blazer coat lined
with pale pink silk. At the front there
is a glimpse of lingerie shirt waist
in the most delicate lawn worn over a
pink lining. Her skirt is a dark cloth
one, a pretty little English tailored
skirt-just the thing for trotting and
for all street occasions. The material
is very smooth as are all cloth models
of spring.
The Eton coat is one that must not
be forgotten, for it is here TO stay an
other season at least, and many of the
new suits-in fact the majority of them
ARE cut in Eton fashion with the Eton
more or less trimmed and the girdle
matching the eton. This suit is almost
necessary to the woman who dresses
well, for it fills up gap in her ward
robe and supplies her with gown
which can be put on when there is
nothing else in view.
Three little summer coats must be in
every wardrobe and their colors and
materials should be about the same.
The material should be smooth and the
shade should be light. Otherwise the
choice is left to the wearer. And the
coats should be in Eton cut, or in pony
shape, or in the popular blazer effect.
The best shades are peach, butter color,