The evening times. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1906-1914, 1906-03-17

made-and herein lies a marked diff
ference between the tailored shirt
waist as we knew it and it's represen-
tative of today-of the sheer stuffs
which, until this year, have been al
mos Invariably confined to blouses.
On course, there will be shirt waists
made to close, firm, rather heavy linen
"a promise of some made of corase
linen that resembles crash-but these
Will be the exceptions, the rule being
such materials as handkerchief linen,
wash mules, batistes, lawns, dimities
and the many other soft, pretty stuffs
which are ranged with these.
The use of thinner stuffs in tailored
waists. plenty of buttons and a dozen
pretty tricks got into the compare
lively plain sleeves are the three main
points upon which all shirt-waist
styles will hinge. But upon these
three points turn some stunning
waists.
Move of the new shirt waists have
short sleeves-that would be traves-
". Instead, they are long, few .,f
them made with puff which stops l.
the elbow to meet cuff which, with
Us scailoped edges, Stimulates the
deepest of the many versions of turn
back cuffs.
An occasional model is cut with
very wide shoulders-so wide, in fact
that they extend way over onto the
upper arm. On some of them the
wide shoulder line is got by the cleysr
cutting of little scalloped bits which
STICK out very much like epaulets. and
give little military touch to the shirt
waist, which is very pretty in the
sheer, soft stuff
A pretty variation of tucked STYLES
mas the tucks laid to initiate double
box picats all the way across the
front. Down each side of the center
box pleat run narrow, full ruffles re-
peated around cuffs and collar. The
cuffs are made for link buttons lin
spite OF the fact that they turn back)
and are wide enough to permit of
their closing easily over the buttons
without minding the sleeve. If you
use two sets of buttons for each emf.
let them be the kind which is made
OF two big pearl buttons, or make them
yourself by sewing two buttons to-
gether on long loop, and button
noilng the loop. For single pair of
Jeweled buttons space the buttonholes
about In the middle of the edge.
Scalloped turn-back cuffs, for that
matter, the receiving great favor in
Paris. upon some of her charming YER
sions of the eminently American shirt
waist. Instead of being separate af-
ralrs, put on the finished sleeve, the
sleeves are often cut just a little too
long, turned back scant inch, and
scalloped. In the case of the elbow
cun-the one that preteads to turn
back-scallops the accentuated by but
tons set in each scallop.
When these cuffs are used they are
often an echo of the same scalloDing
applied by way of trimming some
where else on the shirt waist. An at
tractive way is to cut the shirt waist
without any unnecessary fitness, lay
ing 1t IN two or three tucks, which are
stitched part way from waist to
collar, the top of each tuck being cut
into two or three scallops, each scallop
land those which finish the long
shoulder on top of the sleeve) set off
by a button.
The apricot tints that run into a
faint pink, all OF the rose and coral
shades, some pretty vivid sapphire
tints. all of the violet tones that really
begin with hydrangea blues and range
down to the orchid shades, if one is
to consult the current color card, are
to be seen in the plain colorings.
There are some charming model
gowns on view made up in some of
those, for which some of the raw sill,
weaves, pongees, henrietta and silk
wolfe have been employed.
Some of them are little coat and
skirt models, to be worn with lace
or lingerie blouse according to oc-
casion; but most of them are what the
saleswoman refers to as costum IS,
whereby she intends to convey the i'm
preston that waist and skirt are from
the same waterfall, and that a wrap
to accompany the gown must be of
the separate order.
In the coat and skirt idea there are
some little boleros that are, perhaps,
the most abbreviated ever seen, since
they terminate their short career
somewhere in the neighborhood of the
shoulder blades. The skirt may or
may not be built up in corselet fash
ion; but whether it is or not the fact
that it must measure some eight
yards at the least around the hem is
apparent at the first glance. Those
short and loose little garments that
are variously known as sacque and
caraco coats are highly favored, and
there are still others that present far
more of cape outline than any sug-
gestion of coat. The use of cape
sleeves assist in this impression, too,
and that they are just the thing for
summer and warm weather wear gen.
orally will go long way towards
making them popular.
Embroidered henriettas are being
taken up almost the moment they are
shown by the expensive dressmaking
houses, and all Of the robe patterns,
as they are termed, are meeting with
success that even their most en-
thusiastic admirer failed to anticipate
A leading importer has kept the cables
busy for several weeks trying to OBJ
tain repeat-order deliveries upon those
robes; but the manufacturers declare
that they cannot fill home orders,
much less export ones, SO extremely