The Birmingham age-herald., 1906-10-07
BY. J. FRANCIS KELLEY.

Effective ideas are shown in man tail
 ored broadcloth; the Prince Chap in fancy mixtures in Oxford and medium | grays; Pony coat suits of dark green cloth with brown velvet trimmings cloth
 suits In plum colored Venetian with velvet garniture; shirt waist suits in tan colored, hard twisted serge, also in silk; stylish and hobby separate skirts in heavy blue cheviot serge skirts made of mems suit. ing in invisible check; a general line ot plaids and checks; golden tan cloth, with embroidery in green, orange and black, as well as coffee brown chiffon velveteen. ! This list comprises very, very small | part of the novelties and ideas shown, , but are the more notable features. i The imported idea in an Empire Jacket | Is extremely popular and bids fair to i reign supreme. Thus, in the acceptance
 of this Empire style, Is the claim that f the short jacket is going out, refuted Not the summer styles that have been | popular for skirts, but the ever-beloved l and becoming plaited model will be the ! one in favor for autumn. If this will not i have altogether accordion effect, 1t | will nevertheless. have lines made fine enough to remind one of the knlfe-plait- | ings once so admired for narrow rufflings | These plaits, laid In clusters. will appear ] in all kinds of fabrics from the most | diaphanous to the heavy wools used for ! | will be more often seen than others, l few gored models will be followed, es- | pecially for velvet.
 | No lady's wardrobe is complete without a long coat or wrap It may be the elaborate one, intended. of course. for | evening wear, or 1t may be the ordinary street coat adapted to general wear The showings in the various stores along l this line are exquisite.
 Fundamentally, economy Is one of the characteristics of the long coat. Although the gown may be a veteran in service, a lady enveloped in becoming cloak or wrap, of new design. may feel, to | degree, that she Is a fashion plate. i Apropos of this, the long. all enveloping coat will be in great demand this win ter. While of course 1t Is a trifie early 1 for a complete showing of coats. etc., | the woman wishing to be In advance will find plenty of ideas to select from. 1 Some natty ideas are shown in rajah silk, empire style: serge or broadcloth, trimmed with pompadour ribbon with collar of panne velvet; gray moussellne f and velvet, made up over white lining, with an old lace collar or yoke.
 Models are shown of velvet and silk also chiffon, with dainty rosettes.
 Plain, decidedly business-like street l coats, on the raincoat lines. are also shown. While they are very neat, it Is 1 hardly to be expected that they will an- l swer the purpose of an evening cloak.
 In separate coats, the prevailing style | Is in three-quarter or full length. Less ] than that In length will not be much in i evidence.
 For suits. jackets are all lengths and shapes. fire m Norfolk coats to fancy short boleros in either loose or half fitted double breasted or open. with waistcoats, ! adaptable of course to fancy and figure.
 In all gowns, cloaks. etc. even the rlain street ones. will be noticed a sus- picion of the Empire idea
 While the Empire or Prinoesse models ! are ad apted to the youthful figures, the lorg Empire and Directoire coat can be attractvey fitted to an older woman.
 Waists.
 No seascn has presented wider lati- tude than the present one in the selection of materials for waists. Fashion sweeps l to the extreme of hannels and heavy silks | to sheer silks and the finest lingerie l effects showing elaborate lace and em- / broidery trimming.
 Plaid silk waists are always neat and | serviceable and are strongly favored this 1 season for wear with tailored suits These | can be had in a variety of combinations to harmopize with any shade of suit. The shops are displaying all sorts of plaid ! silks in heavy and light weight effects for | waists or entire gowns. Some are silk 1 and satin stripe combinations. and when
 made on the bias with stripes joined to
 match these have an ultra fashionable air exceedingly charming.
 i A pretty outfit for short jaunt in the country. either in an automobile or train,
 is a plaid silk gown covered with iong 1 silk coas matching in tone the predomin-
 ant shade in the plaid or relieving the | effect. for instance, of a red and green l plaid dress with a dark green silk coat. l This Is a serViceable outfit and can do duty for many morning or afternoon oc-
 casions.
 The allcver lace waist still maintains its l favor, despite the fact that it has been 1 strongly in evidence for several seasons. i These are almost invariably lined with 1 silk, and while there is a wide difference
 in value and weight of these Things. 1t is
 always more airy and 1ressy to have n | light weight quality with a suggestion of | transparency. fer the arms and shoulders to gleam through.
 One attractive model Is a foundation of
 Let elaborately trimmed with motifs and
 festoons of narrow lace. This shows q
 yoke effect outlined with rows of Val
 lace put on in scalloped designs, lace
 medallions are inserted alternately over
 the scallofs, leaving one urtrimmcd and
 ono decorated Lace medallons are seat tered o7er the short, rather full sleeves
 and adorn the Val lace collar as well. | Despite the continued loose appearance, | shirt or dress waists have. the inclina-
 tion is to adopt the French way of having
 them made 6or the coming season at least) on Things. This gives to the Waists
 a trim and natty look they otherwise ! would not have. Even the empire models
 are so constructed as to quite clearly de-
 fine the lines of the figure.
 Owing to plaid skirt and plain jacket
 combinations, the one tone idea has been | relegated to the past.
 Despite all talk to the contrary, en- | broidered waists will be Just as popular i this season they ever were. Fine em- | brodery like fine lace, is always valu-
 able as long as 1t holds together. The designs, etc, this season are broad, and offer a great field for the ingenious
 needle worker.
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