Evening journal., 1906-08-11

Fashions. after all. are made by, rather
than for. the fastidious 10 dress Il Is
just the desire 60 be dressed according 70
ones own Individuality thar brlugs to
light those charming little touches which
make for so much In the success of
gown. hat. little trimming effect;
ufts it out OF the ordinary and often
times starts q new fashion nroilng.
Some of MS are born With n talent for
dress; Others OF us achieve u, and u is
only the small minority that have II
thrust upon them-by a very clever dress
maker.
10 be gowned IN the very latest ex-
preston OF the mode 20 accord IN all
things with the reigning fashiou-and yet
10 be dressed differently from every other
woman 10 her set--thnt Is the task that
the average society woman sets her dress
maker. be she n Yankee or a Parlsienno-
Paradoxicnl enough, Il seems, and yet Il
Is TRUTH
The woman Of average purse and slender
means resigns herself as contentedU as
may be 70 see Implications Of most OF her
possessions upon the backs OF her neigh
bors or fellow town dwellers unless she
he gifted with the double talent, one for
designing her own clothes, and another
for making them after that design.
Once upon n time-and II Is not 40 very
long aro - the women upon this side
Of the ocean were content-yen, ana even
B anxious-to dress In what amounted al
most TO n uniform. Did Mrs. A. walk up
the avenue on Sunday after church with
Swiss pointed belt as part OF her COS
tune and all the other women OF that
set were anxious until they, too. could
narade and display n Swiss belt Mrs.
Bl,s feather boa and Miss C.'s sailor hat
must likewise be duplicated. Let any
woman Of taste or prominence wear any
thing that savored of novelty, ana az
once II was proclaimed the latest fashion,
and blindly followed according.
Nowadava however, quite the opposite
relrns Individuality and exclusiveness
are what Is demanded In even the most
modest costumes. Woe be 70 the dress
maker that turns out a duplicate OF even
the least expensive frock or blouse IN her
stock Tor any two customers within
hundred miles OF each other; each de-
mnnds something designed especially and
exclusively FOR her. and expects that her
limitations. as well as her good points.
be kept In clear view by the designer.
Lucky the woman who can put the
etnmn OF her own Individuality upon her
clothes. She Il IS whom the dressmakers
love 20 work for. and for whom they viii
tnke Infinite pains without grumhling. or
s'taking II out In the bin" as one clever
apprentice nsed 10 say after a particular
" trying seance With dihcult customer.
The rise OF the ready-mnde costume has
given an Impetus 70 the establishment OF
iust the same individuality In dress, con-
lrndfctorv though the statement may
seem al frst glance. One can find In the
shops today made-up gowns, cut by hrst-
class tailors. put together with skilled
workmanship. and price well under the
hftv-dollar mark, too
A delightful example OF the possibilities
OF developing SOME individuality IN one
Of these ready made costumes appeared
he other day. The woman--and she was
not so very young, elther-iust what the
French term past her nrst youth
found a tailor made costume Of a fine
French henrietta In one Of those new
amber brown shades that are 80 wonder.
fully becoming 90 the brown-eyed, nut.
brown maid. The coat was OF excellent
cut daintily lined, and the skirt displayed
equally correcr lines II was spoiled fOl
the fastidious however. by the presenc,
or large brass bullet buttons. cheaI
cuirp and stln cheaper lingerie collar ans
cufIs Nevertheless, the woman bought
Il. recognizing Its best points ut a glance
The fronts. originally double breasted
were cut away 10 roll back Ia revers. an,
q double breasted waistcont of whit
wblpcord was Inserted. The bullet but
tons disappeared as also did the chea
guimp. In their place were battons COY
cred with q soft brown ooze calf, wit
lnOlhu design III uit ntNtt nteNIuln
the center The same material make co
lar aud cuffs. and tine braid In one O
the radiun weaves applied TO the seam
and in an intricate pattern above the hei
OF the skirt altered its appearance con
pietely. The sleeves were cut OF just at th
bend Of the elbow, the skirt provide
with a little haircloth. thin and hexibh
In the hem, and, prestol the gown locke
rs though at least a check for twice i
cost had been written In payment. An
yet the woman had only the asslstnns
Of an Inexpensive seamstress 10 accon
piish the slight alterations that led
such happy results
Linen envelopes to ht the purse are n
latest fad at the fancy-wOrk shops. Yo
take the purse or bag there. the ciev,
designer at once takes the measurement
and cuts the pieces TO IT. They are the
ftamped with whatever design the own,
chooses and worked IN fine linen thread
white or colored, just as caprice dictare
For use with the white linen and linRer
.rocks Of the summertime those cove
Tor bags and portemonnaies are quite n
correct thing, and so far the ready y-ma,
and machine-wrOught article 10 this OF
item has yet TO appear upon the depar
ment-stOre counters. The little envelol
Idea has much 70 commend Il for SUNNI
use. For one thing, Il not only preserv
the smart bag or pccketbook from soil
hands that may be won't TO be too war;