davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1906-12-24
PUBLIC HAS RIGHTS.

Nauy of these strikes and lockouts
would not have occurred had the par
ties to the dispute been required to APP
pear before an unprejudiced body re-
presenting tire nation and, face to face,
state the reasons for their contention.
In most instances the dispute would
doubtless be found to be due to a mis-
understanding by each of the others
rights, aggravated by an unwillingness
of either party to accept as true the
statements of the other as to the justice
or injustice of the matters in dispute.
The exercise of judicial spirit by a
DISTINGUISHED body representing the Fed
eral Government. such as would be pro
vided by a commission on Cancellation
and arbitration would tend to create an
atmosphere of friendliness and concilia-
ton between contending parties; and tire
giving each side an equal opportunity to
present fully its case in the presence Of
the other would prevent many disputes
from developing into serious strikes or
lOckouts, and, in other cases, would en-
able the commission to persuade the OPP
posing parties to come to terms.
In this age of great corporate and
labor combinations, neither employers nor
employees should be left completely Mt
the mercy of the strong party to a dis
pute, regardless of thc Righteousness of
their respective claims Tire proposed
measure would he in the line of securing
recognition of the fact that in many
strikes the public has itself an interest
which can not wisely be disregarded; an
an interest not merely of general conve-
nionce for the question of a just and pro
per public policy must also he considered
In all legislation of this kind it is well
TO advance cautiously testing each steT
by the actual results; the step proposed
can surely be safely taken, for the de
cisions of the commission would not binC
the parties in legal fashion, and yet would
give chance for public opinion to cry
stalize and thus to exert its full force
for the right.
-QlAlHA<SAx1eAz.A14ASA
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1906-12-24
MAY BE A DISTRICT.

Secretary Metcalf of the Department
of Commerce and Labor in his annual
report has an item of Importance to
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1906-12-24
w. r. PATTERSON & co.

General Contracting and Jobbing.
Housepainting, Paperhanging, Grain.
ing, Kalsomlning, Brick, Cement and
Stone Work. Shop with W-hittle, the
sign painter, corner Hotel and Union
streets. Phone Main 361.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1906-12-24
Vienna Bakery

GOOT Bread, the only HOMEMADE
BREAD in town. All kinds of cakes
our speciality.
Phone Main 179. No. 1929 Fort St
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1906-12-24
g~@+@%@+@%8~>+s+0+.+@+~

Hawaii, which is that the lighthouse
board desires the establishment of
three additional districts-one to COM
prise Hawaii and the Pacific Islands
another Porto Rico and Guatanamo
and the third the Alaskan waters.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1906-12-24

increase in the cost of products and the
inconvenience and loss to the public.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

blue linen has inset on the short skirt
wide band OF Irish lace. Tho short straight
coat reaching tribe below the waist Is
made entirely Of this denteile. strapped
with stitched bands of blue linen.
Lace coats will again be worn with cere-
naonious linen gowns, and when one Is pos.
sessed OF valuable garment OF this kind
II is unnatural to treat them as a fashion
of few weeks duration.
Partisan women affecting beautiful
black costumes. though as a rule French
women are not partial 10 sable hues. The
revival of Jet has something to do with
the present choice. or to reverse matters.
this faifacy for black may have something
to do with the revival of jet But. how
ever II may be. fashions in black are beau
tifui this spring. wonderfully effective
froek for the Riviera Is carried out In
black crepe de chine princess. with
transparent yoke and long cuffs coming up
above the elbow of exdu,sitely fine Jet
Tire fchu effect Is edged with Jet and the
hem of the skirt is treated in the same way.
There are modistic straws that point to
the gradual wane OF the elbow sleeve at no
far of period. And what an important part.
to be sure sleeves play In the comedy of
iifei They date" more accurately than
any other part of the costume, and In the
lifetime of a smile they are old-fashioned
and impossible The woman OF limited
dress allowance VIII do well TO concentrate
attention on her sleeves.
To return to the vogue or Jet. a beautiful
white chiffon wolfe empire frock has three
graduated bands OF finely cut jet at the
feet and is worn with n Jet bolero over a
white net chemisstte and sleeves. Speaking
of net there is a fascinating fabric called
printed tulle. The mesh is not unlike
Brussels weave, with the surface almost
covered with blurred flower effects in sew
eral tones OF the same shade. In lavender
tints and pink this material is exquisite.
On a white organde frock seen the other
day the printed tulle was used as a foot
Ing on the myriads OF RULES that trimmed
the dress.
If you have n sun plated skirt attach IL
to short empire waist OF lace OF sorne
appropriate material, and with a few
clever touches you have a charming house
gown.
Just a word 3nent millinery 10 point out
the quiet but nevertheless insured encroach-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

around the neck and trimmed the bottom
of the sleeves. 1t does not sound especially
fetching, but 1t was really one of the neat
est and best fitting costumes noted.
A simple and effective evening gown in
the trousseau OF one of the weeks brides
is of palest pink chiffon cloth over liberty
satin of even a slightly lighter blue The
bodice has the folds running around the
body arG extending some two inches be-
low the waist line all around, being fitted
to the figure and finished at the bottom by
a small cord covered with the satin and
then with the chiffon. The corsage top is
formed OF a wide, scant puff of pink ehif-
fon divided into three puffS by lines of the
tinieSt pink roses and buds OF different
shades and sizes. The large puff was seven
inches deep and extended partially over the
bust. The first row of roses went around
the corsage where the chiffon Joined the
satin, the top row was fastened an inch and
q half from the top, and the third was
midway between; all were brought UP in
the center front and fastened with q loose
spray of larger buds. The top was shirred
several times at the top, and a frill Of
pink tulle was inserted under the edge.
The sleeves were puffs OF chiffon ending
midway between the shoulders and the ell
bows. They were shtrred several times at
the bottom and were garlanded twice
around with the rosebuds and a frill,. crisp
fluff of tulle finished them
The skirt was gathered several times
around the top. and fell TO the floor in
folds. trailing a bit at the back and rest
ing on the floor all around. Starting almost
from the waist line were two trails OF tiny
pink chiffon roses that started from u
point at the top, until at the bottom they
were nine inches apart, and then went on
around the skirt in garlanded designs.
There were three OF these gsriands Of pink
roses around the skirt. A spray OF pink
roses accompanied the gown, to be worn
fiat against the coiffure.
TIT Is 19rranf from : a q
white hat of crlnoIine, with the wire under
the brim covered with pink satin. The low,
round crown was surrounded with deep,
full box-plaitings of white tulle, that stood
up so crisply and high that the crown
could barely be discerned through them,
and In the center front was single huge
white rose shadowing to pink in It's center,
surrounded by dull green leaves frosted
with silver. The cachepeigne was white
tulle plaitings and several sprays Of leaves
like those attached TO the rose.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04
Practice Makes Perfect.

From the New York Tribune.
The daughter OF Bret Harte with the aid
of a number of her fathers English friends,
has opened typewriting Office In London.
She is proficient typewriter. and an
American journalist. calling to have soms
copying done. complirnented her on her
skill
my skill. such as II Is. is due to prac-
tfce,'' said Miss Harte ut was acquired
very painfully. like the craftsmanship of
one of my fathers western friends.
MY father used to tell of a man called
Redwood James, character OF California
James, in bar one night, drew a revolver
and shot the ashes from the cigar OF a
friend on the other side of the room.
sThe friend laughed. and calmly drank
off the remainder of his cocktail. My father
said to Redwood James:
a. That must have required considerable
practice
Praeticer Redwood replied. Il should
say SO. young man. guess / spilled moren
three dozen Chiuamen a-learnfnP that there
trick"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

q. a. course. Z reaction from the self-right-
eouD AypocYtgy Of our ancestors. We are
rath9 proud nowadays Of our shortcomings.
. tr4ise worse than better than We really
are. Let - beware OF going to the other
axtreme and hanishin6 all ths pleasant
humbu8 without which daily life would be-
cono inssxpportab1e. caudor. like hypocrisy.
being only endurable when harmless.
To be candid about the modes of today
Is nuother uncomfortable proposition They
-pfay 50 TnHny tricks upon one that even the
fashion clronicier Is apt to be deceived.
II t. pleasant news to learn authorfta-
lively that velvet ribbon viii be used on
many of the spring and summer nocks.
Now IS the psychological moment TO pick
up bolts OF this ribbon before the craze is
at high water mark Here Is another tip
for the wise virgin whose sartorial ideas
are always kept trimmed and ournins
Make your dressy afternoon gown of chiffon
cloth In becoming pastel shade. It Is an
almost accepted fact that this cloth does
not wear weil-a most erroneous one, as
sure you, my dear madame, but experience
I'm this case. as in all others, Is the best
teacher. As an experiment give your mod
iste an order for costume or this genre.
and next summer. Ii the material Is extant,
you will duplicate 1t In some other modish
color The chiffon gown requires-indeed.
/ might say demands-a silk lining, but
taffeta may be purchased at bargain
price, thereby apprecianly reducing the cost
of the creation. A number of the silk iIni-
tations have been experimental with as a
foundation, but have, In all instances. been
found woefuily wanting. AS blouse ma
terial chiffon cloth Is ideal, and this SEEM
fngIy fragile fabric has been known to
outlast many a blouse fashioned from tar
feta, louisine and pongee-
The home dressmaker has begun her OPP
erations upon summer frocks, to be carried
out in dimity lawn and organdie, IN an
the delightful new effects. The possibilities
for dainty confeetions in this direction are
manifold 25-cent lawn or swiss frock
may become rival of the best French cou-
turiere's creation IL treated sympatheticaliy
Valenciennes lace is still the modiSh trim
ming of the summer gown, but coarse
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

derry the effect b charming. BY the way.
IN tho new enorofderfes there are intro
d1iced motives OF Val or baby Irish. the
embroidery framing the bits OF lace.
It IL comforting to know that the winter
vogue Of the plain skirt will run over the
summer jlpes. and one sees many OF the
prettiest froeks adorned with self tucks
An INFINITE amount OF variety may be
achieved In tho grouping OF the tocis. Al
ternate lines Of small and large ones are a
charming arrangement and In some cases
the tucks are edged with narrow rliffies
OF lace Still another variation which may
be rung upon this theme are groups OF
tucks placed between bands OF embroidery
or footing.
decision Of the dressmakers. to have decreed
that the circular skirt shall be favored for
tub frocks Such. however, Is the sad fact,
but to give affiiction grace there are
number of ways in which this dffhcuity
may be oyercome-noticeably by using a
Spanish founce with circular upper skirt.
o. the circular skirt cut straight at the
sides with a seam up the middle front and
the three-piece circular Joined in some
pretty fashion. An effective trimming for
these founees are two-inch tueks evenly
spaced. running the entire depth. Similar
tuck5 head the iounce and hide the joining
and above these Is third row. The blouse
accompanying a skirt of this kind viii he
simply tucked and further beautited with
a faneiful yoke or lace or embroidery
W here broad shoulder effect Is necessary
bertha surrounds the yoke. Because the
so-caIled plain skirt will zoe Immensely pop
uIar there are no lack OF deliberately trim
med jupes that in their intricate execution
battle description.
Another grievance of the couturiere VIII
be the princess tub" gown. The idea of
such q frock appearing In the washtubs
Is appalling. The corselet creation of linen
is more adaptable to the situation with a
bretelie bodice and lingerie waist
For tailored linens the short coat, either
in the guise of loose bolero or box af-
fair with semi-fltting back and loose fronts,
is equally smart. The long coats of last
year were very stunning. but they rumpled
so easily and looked so bedraggled after
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

ed and box-piaited at the top The bride
wore as ornaments wide collar OF nne
pearls, with diamond Sides and a superb
diamond necklace. This necklace was CON-
posed or ovais OF diamonds, from which
swung crescents OF diamonds, each end OF
the crescent being curved up to and Joining
the necklace between the ends OF the ovals.
These ovais had each a large diamond In
its center. around which was set row OF
smaller stones, and the crescent or semi
stones.
The little maid of honor-not 30 little.
after all. but young girl In short skirts
was Miss Leta Pell Wright, daughter OF
Mr.. and Mrs. Eben Wright, and niece OF
the bride.
Miss Wright wore a short slip of accor-
dion-pIaited white chiffon, the bodice hay-
ing a sheer lace-trimmed yoke finished by
a Marie Antoinette fichu OF chiffon having
lace rutffes This was knotted carelessly in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04
SPRING FASHIONS.

Special Corresposdencs Of 1Ae star
PARIS, February II, 1p00
HE sensational Castellane divorce
scandal reminds one that the
much discussed and eytdent1y
fascinating Count Boni II one OF
the most discriminating amateur
art conoisseurs in France. Perhaps the
similarity in tastes accounts for the bond
OF sympathy that 10 said to exist between
the artistic Duchess d'Uxes and the hus-1
band OF the American countess. The mag
nihcent Castellane hotel. modelled after the
Petite Trianon and built with q generous
share of the Gould millions. Is splendid
example of what art allied to great wealth
can accomplish. This fact Is doubiy inter-
esting at the present day, when the love OF
antique objects is form OF snobbery at
the vile luninere 1t is particularly vfru-
lent among the nouveau richie, who COM
mand antiques even IL the dealers have
them not. That the supply can be made
equal to the demand Is evident when one
sees these chance favorites of fortune pur-
chase naively and trustngly faxed wood
work or stuffs which cause admirers of the
ANTIQUE to smile For instance, rare and
valuable English engravings that are now
almost unobtainable are sold wholesale for
a few francs at a shop in the Bots. 1t Is
all great pity, for although we are not
obliged to furnish according to fake"
notions. Ii Is nevertheless shock TO CONS
across these poor mans antiquities
Some Partisan artists, among them the
divine Sarah, do not affect the antique in
furnishings. Caring only for what is genu-
inc and realizing how difficult these treas
ures are to find, they have created sur
roundngs for themselves which belong to
them alone. One sees at their apartments
q door cut and carved for the host after
his own drawings and plans a piece of
tapestry woven according to the personal
tastes and ideas of the artist a frieze
made of Asiatic screens arranged in such
a novel manner that the most fastidious
eye rests upon it enraptured
This is not modern art; it is personal art.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

ment of a large, picturesque mushroom
shape. One scarcely knows how where
to place the apparition which has crept
upon us Ike a thief in the night. There is
a Romney suggestiveness in its appearance
minus the strings, but number OF slightly
curled feathers lend an added grace and at
Effectiveness. AS a carriage chapeau this
model has all the virtues and since 1t is
an expensive affair and the shape only in
the hands OF few exclusive milliners, It IS
bound to be taken up by the elegantes.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

folds or heavy white satin forming the
bodice were drawn in surplice fashion,
these folds also forming the finish of the
bodice, there being no girdIe. The sleeves
were short puns OF lace, with frils similar,
there being also satin in the sleeve puffs.
The skirt had a deep accordion-plaited
fiounce of chiffon rising very high in the
center front and slantlng down at the sides
until II was quite narrow at the sides or
the train This nounce was set with q
ruched heading, and box of rose ruchfng
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

The great Sarah, whose genius is part of
the artistic pride Of France. has nothing in
her house but what she herself has orig
mated and had executed. These examples
show one the means of opposing this snob-
berry, these troublesome artistic pIeten-
tons which get a f1rmer hold of peoples
minds day by day.
This aesthetic attitude Is amusing, coming
as it does IN connection with the change
in our morals. for you must know that 1t Is
no longer fashionable to be a hypocrite.
Today we are seized with a frantic desire
to be ourselves. This modern frankness
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

the center front, the ends extending to the
waist line. The gtrdle was white satin.
The sleeves were loose accordion plated
puffs of the chiffon banded with white satin
and finished at the elbows with lace ruff
fies. The bodice was accordion plated be-
low the yoke. Around the bottom of the
accordion-pIaited skirt were three narrow
bands of white satin couple of inches
apart, the lowest one perhaps three inches
from the skirts edge.
Her hat was a large, round, broad-brimnaed
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04
Special Correspondence OF The Star.
NLcNN YORK March z 1.Nlo

NEW YORK, March z, 1906
- FRS. FRANCIS CUNNINGHAM
IN ~ BISHOP. who was Miss Ger
N trude Pell, ana whose marriage
TO MIR. Bishop. z son or the late
Heper X. Bishop-whose won
derful collection of jades was presented to
the Metropolitan Museum Of Art-wore
remarkably handsome bridal robe. 1t was
of white satin, founeed with chiffon caught
with sprays OF orange blossoms, and the
top was old point lace, the veil also being
long one of old point, an heirloom belonging
10 the brides mother, Mrs. walden Pell
The veil was so arranged as to show the
soft. low pompadour and the sides OF the
couture. The top or the gown was a deep
yoke OF old point lace over which the full
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

A French wedding gown, of which a
drawing has been sent to one of the pros
pective Easter brides, outlines the following
robe:
There is to be high stock and shallow
pointed guimpe or vest effect in cross-wise
tucked white chiffon, an edge of point lace
finishing the top of the collar and having
bands of tulle between the lace and the
neck.
princess, perfectly smooth and fiat in the
back. the skirt portion being gored to give
fullness until a line below the hips is
reached, and then begin the underlying
double boxpiaits, widening out into the long,
rounded train.
From the underarm seams the fronts of
the bodice portion are laid in surpliced
folds the right side extending over the
left the folds at the waist line being
tackled firmly to the foundation. A seven
inch ffounce of rose point starts ON the left
side of the bodice, under the overlapping
right side, extends up along the side of the
chiffon vest, across the back and down the
right side to the waist line, where 1t is
caught In plaits that reduce its width to
three inches; then being released, 1t con-
tinues on down the left side of the front
Under this lace the robe closes invisibly
Two inches from the upper edge of the
founce, which is not straight. but scalloped
on both edges, single long line of arti-
fetal orange blossoms is fastened
Around the bottom of the gown, extend
ing to the sides Of the train and then
curving UP and over toward the 'front.' there
Is sketched a ten-inch founce of point APP
plique over a wider accordion plated
fiounce or chiffon. The head OF this point
applique founce Is headed by wide box
ruching Of white chiffon and here and
there tiny sprigs of orange blossoms are
to be fastened.
The sleeves viii be a novelty here, but
not In Paris, where young girl brides are
prfmly robed, have quite large puffs at
their tops. over which the bertha dounce
OF rose point will extend In epaulet effect.
From the elbows down the sleeves are to
be tight-ftting and are to extend over
the tops Of the short-wristed gloves. Deep
cuffs OF rose point half the depth of the
tight section of the sleeves finish them as
cuffs
The suggestion for the veil is that point
applique be used, the Brussels net center
to be left plain, and the border very deep.
but showing light and fragile appliques
only. 1t is to be q long scarf. the end at
the back extending to within eighteen
ir ches Of the floor, and the other end COM
ing over the face ard hanging half way
between waist line and knees. This Is to
be 80 draped under q small round wreath
OF orange blooms that after the ceremony
1t can be drawn around to one side and Will
hang straight down over the longer section
at the back.
Miss Teresa Holmes. who married George
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

OF the chiffon finished tho lower edge. At
intervals up the sides OF the graduated
ffounce. and caught at the top that they
dropped, also sIantingIy toward the back,
were single sprays or orange blossoms
seven or eight inches in length.
The veil, long ana narrow, and extended
well down the train. the latter being round
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

affair of white lace trimmed with ehous
OF liberty satin ribbon, and had a white
ostrich plume or two falling Off the left
and back. She carried a basket filled with
lilies of the valley.
The bridesmaids were the Misses Leila
Burnett of Boston, one of the handsomest
of the Hubs debutantes of l90a-05. blonde
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

crochet insertions OF cluny are newer If
less airy looking. When employed in con-
nection with Valenciennes or hand embroi-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

fon and lace. aHnl at each side OF the
skirt graduatedSpanei of duchesse lace
was let In.
The bodice had a stock OF point lace and
a deep shirred yoke of chiffon with inser-
ticns of lace. This yoke ran very far down
the 'front.' almost to the waist line and q
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04

line with the insertion border of the cross
wise center one.
section In the top of each sleeve matching
those on the yoke, that is, pointed at the
bottom only. The sleeves are gathered just
below the elbow into straight bands of the
lace finished by a four-inch ruffie of the
null, with an edging of the insertion fin
ished in turn by ruffle of the edging.
The bottom of the waist, by the way, is
gathered In at the waist line. and folded
girdle of pale blue liberty satin with wide
bow and two short pointed ends is placed
at one side of the front. The latter is bit
of an innovation just now, when the ends
and the chous or bow are almost invariably
at the back.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-04
GOWNS OF LINEN AND LACE.

one sat down In them that all smartness
was lost.
An attractive coat and suit costume of