The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1906-04-07


While rumors that the mannish and Sc
we're type Of taiior-made-nnd that is al
ways construed to mean coats that shall
display a prim precision Of. cut and an
absence of fulness. and a skirt that is
the plainest and most practical substi-
fute for trousers that the engaging young
female can well wear-have been rife
and rampant for some little time. the
advance models that the best Of the
French tailors are sending over. as well
as the admirable gowns that home talent
produces. both go a long way to contra
dict those unpleasant ruDors.
OF course. there are always those to
whom the plain. and even mannish tailor
made appeals more than anything else,
ana they, Of course. welcome loudly any
thing that approaches even remotely their
favored style OF dress. Hence. pertains.
the rumors referred to. We have most
Of Us heard of the young lady who had
her portrait painted by a famous artist
one whose signature is exchanged only
FOR a cheque In five figures. Her coming
out gown was tried. several dinner and
dancing frOcks likewise; and her entire
family were shocked beyond measure
but seemingly not beyond expression
when she declared that a linen shirt
waist. stiff high choker collar and a
knotted 2ourin-hand cravat shouL. apo
down to posterity" as her favorfte cos
tune, for she declared, and doubtless
with more than a soupcon of truth In the
declaration, that she looked her ssverv
bestest best in this garb, and seemed
slmperlng ana inane In any other. A de-
cAsiOn IN which the artist evidently CON
CURED. for he has borrowed the nor
trait many times and oft for exhibition
purposes.
However. to get back to the tailors.
The French women have never yielded
gracefully to the domination Of the tailor
made, and even their plainest gowns ever
and always display some little touch of
atonement in the way Of a dressy touch
or fixing to relieve its severity. When
the plain and high linen collar is used
there viii be q wealth of hand embroiderv
10 white upon It. and 1t will serve to ton
a stir and plisse cravat of the finest
linen, with French knots and hemstitched
hens all around.
The trig and trim Elton, the more far
ing bolero and many clever compromises
tive those two models are what the
best shops are showing in the new mod
els, tapering skirts that display a de-
iightful amount Of fitness around the
feet.
OF course, this extra fulness from the
hip down means that all of the skirts
are and must be, longer; that the com
Portable little trOtteur has received. even
II IL has not acknowledged. its sentence of
Punishment from the haunts of fashion.
and that we shall go around this coming
season clutching several Yards Of fui
shirts IN a hand that grows cramnad
from its uncomfortable duty all too soon
Luckily, however, all of these same ma
terials are In the much-tO-be-desired chif-
ION weights and weaves: and so the case
Is not SO bad as presented. Added to
which, there never yet was a woman
tall or short. slender or stout. who ala
not realize to the full how extremely be-
coming 4 train Is to her appearance.
But the smart little pedestrienne suit
viii hold its place in the American ward
robe and affections for quite sometime
to come. More and more are we asserting
our declaration of independence In things
other than politics, and Of such fashion.
and our personal convenience therein. IS
the chief.
The Illustration upon this page depicts
delightfully."- the range OF styles that are
being shown for present and future wear.
Delicate colOrings prevail; and there is a
charming amount OF latitude both as 10
color and material where trimming is
concerned. Upon such sheer fabrics as
chinon mohair. batiste, henrietta and the
finer ~broadcloths, the present fancy is
all for bias bands and folds, tucks and
s~trappings Of the material itself. Some
times the clever tailor uses those bias
bands in just the very same way as he
would braids, and the results OF this
experiment are fetching indeed. Braids,
too. are In high esteem, and velvet rib
bons receive a dignIfed recognition, while
rs for those tight little pieatings In silk