The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-11-04
FEW CHANGES IN MEMS WEAR
TAILORS SEEKING NOW TO AVOID
EXTREMES IN STYLE.

The sack Coat Differs Little From That of
last season some Novelties In Heavy
weight FranneIs -One Notable Change
n. the shorter and Tighter Trousers.
Well dressed men in New York never a-
low themselves to be led into ordering what
the salesman will in many shops call the
very smartest things in mems fashions.
The man who allowed himself to be advised
in this way would one wear wear a short
coat cut in at the waist and iaring out at the
hips. The next year he would have on "a coab
that falls half way TO his knees, and would
And himself dressed only in blue, gray or
brown, according to the dictum Of the par-
ticuIar tailor with whom he happened to
deal.
In looking generally over the fashions Of
the coming season in New York as they are
turnei out by the best men, one realizes
how little change there is from season
RI season and how all change that docs
exist seems in the direction OF an lm-
movement. IL would be absurd TO say that
the sack coat OF this year or the cutaWayI
for that matter, Is the same a. that worn !ast
winter. The changes in II are 80 sllghti
however, that they cannot make a coac
several years old look distinctly unsniart.
One might srpue that this was poor business
on the mart of a tailor, but they do not lind
il 10.
aThat would be the worst thing "A SMART
taiIor could do" said one of them TO a SIN
reporter. "for men would never buy ~
many suits as they do IL they thought ID
was going TO be impossible to wear them
during a second year. | will tell You how
that happens. Men come 10 me and order
half a dozen sack suits thinking that thoss
suits ire going TO last them for two winters
or mavbe me re. They come back next
wear and there are nine chances out of
ton that they will order just az many moro
suits. intending that they shall last for a
long time. Now, IL u styles changed
pr~onouncedly from year to year no man
would buv more than M or two suitsp
however rich he was. On the other handg
we must have some little novelty every
wear 10 show the customers that the coats
thew are going 10 buy are not technically
the same as those they have already
Take the sack suit as an example OF tho
change from last year. There Is TO bs
observed the same length, which brings tbs
coat well below the hips. The shoulders
a re- not padded in the least unless a man ~
conspicuousIy narrow shouldered. Then
the effect of greater breadth Is secured
IN the way tina English cutters follow.
Padding il not put into the lirirgs, but the
coat IL cut broadly over the shoulders. Tho
sleeves are set on then at the extreme
edge of the shoulder and are not so mad5
thst they ha We to have the cloth cut out
The sack coat has a broad rolled collav
hat does not fold back but turns over IN a
loose roll. There may be two or three
buttons in the front Of the coat, and inc
sleeves are finished with a narrow turnover
cuff. This is lone especially in the tweed
sack coats. Those made in a more dreSsv
material usually have the three button
vent at the bottom Of the sleeve.
The coat must not be tight, n comes
together SO closely over the hips that inc
are longer this year than last. The neck
IL always cut so low that the waistcoat
shows for a depth Of two inches above inc
rolling collar.
material as the coat it is usually the best
form to have il made with a collar. When
IL Is Of a fancy material the waistcoat mas
no collar and is pointed in two peaks at
pockets, Of which two are provided with
hsps. The other, which is the upper hand
kefchief pocket, has no such finish;
A novelty in the material for sack coats
this year is the flannel which IL In design
similar to the patterns used IN sunmer.
Stripes in blue m white and IN green, IN
brown and red and checks of dark green
and black are Of the same looking material
but in winter weight. these nlaterhIS
allow greater variety in fashion. All coai>,
however, are made with but n vent IN
the back and that must not be too deep,
and is never buttoned.
One noticeable novelty in dress this year
is the shortened trousers. They will he
from one-half TO two inches shorter. This
for business wear. "fRey barely come TO
the instep and must be worn without uppers
of any kind. With a frock coat or one OF
called here, the trousers fall to the top of
the foot and cover the instep. For evening
wear they must be long enough to touch
the sock, as pumps, having no upper re-
another novelty about the cut of trousers
which will be a source OF delight to every
body weary OF the shapeless bags that have
been worn for several years. They are 10 bs
made at least an nch tighter, and that .
only the beginning OF a fashion that VIII.
before long take from two to three inches
out Of the maximum width at present.
The fall ~cutaway, which will 10 such 5
great extent replace the frock this wlnte'i
will in nearly every case be trimmed with
braid. 1t il TO be worn with gray or other
neutral tint OF striped trousers. There
are only two bIttons on this coat, which
the fancy waistcoat both at the TOP
and bottom. The broad roll collar Is cue
hcCDcE JudH Oh n NdCh BUN dlN NWD
coat docs not meet for a distance OF mors
four inches. The waistcoat is moder-
ately high in the neck and should be with
out q collar except when made of the sans
goods as the coat. These suits are made
up in tweeds. worsteds and cassimeres Of
gray. and brown. They are not intended
for dress. Only the black coats are con-
sidered IA a substitute for the frock in ~
less formal uses.
The frock coat has continued it's progress
toward less length and greater closcness
to the figure. IL has its collar somewhat
this year than ever before and shows
the waistcoat. h waistcoat must le
double breasted in this case.
The overcoat will again be the Chester
Held Tor those men who are obliged 10 lImt
the number OF their garments. 1t is loO-ej
suggesting rather than defining the out
lines OF the figure and fitting closest o~yerthe
shoulders. 1t is cut but little into the
curves OF the figure at the waist and hangs
in a straight drop, modified by a scarcely
p~erceptible flare at the bottom OF the -klrt.
mother popular but less dressy form Of Tho
Chesterfield has the tight ft only az the