The San Francisco call., 1906-06-10

and if a touch of different color Is
needed il can very easily be obtained
in the ruche or boa or in the introduc-
tion of color in the waist rather than
by having it glaringly conspicuous as
the trimmings For women who make
style of their own and wear always
white and black, or white. black and
some other color, the question of these
ruches and boas is a most interesting
one
The hand made frock of sheer lin
gerie materials-of which handker-
chief linen, linen batiste and the ex-
tremely sheer cotton goods that rule
this season are chiefs considered
suitable for weH-nigh any occasion.
For general morning wear. for lun-
cheons for afternoon calls and garden
parties, there is hardly a daylight
function to which il does not wend it's
charming way The Partisan model
affords many suggestions to the clever
needlewoman, and. in spite of elaborate
appearance. calls for patience rather
than skill for it's reproduction.
Blouses and skirts are fashioned sepa-
rately and Joined into the belt that en-
circles the waist Most effective use
is made of strips of shirred linen,
alternating with lace entre-deux. those
being arranged in pointed festoOns
that intersect upon both waist and
skirt, the triangular spaces being
filled in with lengthwise tuckings.
The requisite fullness below the knee
IS achieved by means OF a sectional
nounce in which narrow strips of the
linen are shirred TO the lace entre-
deux, and the whole finished with a
rune OF lace at the extreme edge.
Little festOon appliques of coarse gui-
pure simulate round yoke effect ON
supported with the regulation little
rods of featherbone. and the three
quarter sleeve. is elaborated with the
oouilonne feStOOn pattern
Inere is simply no end TO the fetch
ing little conceits displayed bv i'm
porters under the guise of Separate
ooleros- They come in all sorts and
Shapes. In several materials and sizes,
ana each one seems even more fascinat-
ing than the one before. For early
season wear they are perhaps more
often worn with double chifron lin
ing. or even with taffetas. the xlace
SILK being veiled with layer Of chiffon
or mousseline de sole. OF course. there
is no warmth or protection from the
weather TO those smart little affairs
they are worn merely as a finishing
touch to the toilette. and amply do
they NIL this office. They are readily
possible to the woman who can use =
i
large and rather coarse motifs thar
are quickly made. and which make ex-
cellent pickup work Or the same
ideas can be carried out in lace braids.
and the crochet needle employed to fll
in the brides or connecting stitches
pattern together.
The two examples OF hand-ena-
broidered. and elaborated parasols are
IN keeping with the march of extrava-
gance that is the keynote OF current
styles. Each well defines the trend Of
styles. one Tor the, simple effect and
the other boldly declaring an acme Of
elaboration which is well expressed in
both material and design. The simnler
one is OF a somewhat heavy handker-
chief linen-that is. 1t is a heavy weave
for handkerchiefs. On this a design
or tnree-Iear clover is wrought in
heavy satin stitch. somewhat after a
conventional motif. The edge is simply
buttonholed scallOp. The other
makes use of far sheerer linen ara
combines a duchess lace with hand en-
/ broideries after a most extravaeapt
fashion In this instance the whole
cover is worked before being mounted
| and the design arranged TO suit the
ruffie of Brussels applique which sur
/ rounds the edge. Under this there 10
a RUNE of the sheer handkerchief linen
with several rows Of tiny pinched tucks
above the hemstitched hem. and a
whipping of narrow real Valenciennes
on the edge.
The embroidered parasoI top can ex-
press any degree OF extravagance thar
may be desired For morning us.s
there are ine linen ones. wrought with
heavy raised blindwork and the edges
buttonholed and scalloped For after
Moons and carriage wear the acme 81
elaboration is observed. and even
choice real laces of the Honfton
duchess and Bruges school are deftf-,
employed to supplement- the charm Of
the embroideries that are In such hfrh
/ vogue. Handles to these are ex-
tremely long and slender, and a big
hufry rosetts rather than a bow Of
ribbon about half way down the shai.
Is the correct finish.