Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-18
HOW TO CUT SKIRTS
SUGGESTIONS TO ENABLE HOME
DREssMAKERs TO FIT.

The same care should be exercised when
purchasing a skirt pattern as when buying
for a waist, as, naturaliy-and I speak lit
erally-fgures vary quite as much below
the waist line as above. According to
standard rules. a woman should have hip
measure of about forty-four inches If her
waist measures twenty-six inches, but this
is so seldom the case that alterations are
almost always necessary If one would pro-
duce we'll fitting, well-hanging skirt II
the buyers proportions correspond. all well
and good, there will be no trouble whatever,
but under other conditions the hip measure
should be the guide. as alterations at the
waist line are by no means difficult, al
though 1t Is much easier when the hip
measure Is larger in proportion than the
together and the skirt tried on, when a sec
ond person will pin in each seam q little
deeper than the seam allowance calls for,
and the result will be generally satisfac-
tory.
Fitting Women With Large Hips.
IT, however, 1t is desired to fit a person
whose waist is large in proportion to the
hips, then it will be necessary to allow for
this before cutting, making an increase on
each seam from the line of the hip to the
waist. How much this increase will be de-
pcuuS upOu lie humber Oh cores ana the
additional inches required, not forgetting
the shape of the figure to be fitted because
while some women are round in form others
may be fiat both in front and at back. the
hips prominent, or, again, the abdomen
may be the prominent feature. the back
displaying a Corresponding fairness
In increasing for the round figure, all that
Is necessary will be to add very slight
increase to edges of all cores from the
hip line upward, any intelligent person be-
Ing able to calculate just how much by
finding the number Of inches necessary,
then dividing 1t by the number of cores
In the latter cases, the increase must of
course be distributed where needed and not
on each gore. For the woman of full alb
domen and fiat back, the front and side
cores must not only show an increase III
width, but should be cut longer, the front
gore the longest of all. The back gore, as
rule, Will require no alteration. Suppos
longer than the back. then it should be
slanted from the center front along the
top of the side cores until they fit the back
gore, the waist line being a sharp slant.
This will prevent the skirt from standing
out in point in the front around the feet
than which there is nothing more insight
ly. Then, OF course, it stands to reason
that in the case of the fiat figure with large
hips the Increase will come on those seams
directly over the hips.
To Change Skirt Lines.
Again, the standard length measure for
1t can be readily seen that this length will
not suit all, but that it will be necessary to
lengthen in some cases and shorten in
others. For the former each width should
be cut straight across eleven inches below
the waist line and the pieces taken apart as
many inches as is necessary-two inches
If the skirt is to be forty-four inches, and
so on In proportion. After cutting lay the
straight edges in a straight line, while If
both edges are bias then be guided by the
row of perforations.
To shorten the skirt lay a fold. downward
ike a tuck, at the same distance from the
waist line as that directed for frightening
purposes, making it as wide or as narrow
as suits the needs. 1t will be seen that
there Is a small space on the bias edge Of
the gore after the tuck is formed. which
should be filled out when cutting the ma
terlal, unless the wearer to be is quite
slight, when the paper may be slanted off
even.
Fitting a circular skirt after a pattern
is rather more difficult achievement, un-
less the figure answers the standard meas
ures, especially when the waist is large in
proportion to the hips If only a slight de-
crease Is necessary, then the cloth can be
gathered to fit, and the material shrunk
until 1t fits perfectly. If more than this Is
necessary, two or three tiny darts set in
lining first, then cutting the cloth, will re-
suit satisfactorily. =.
To Make Circular Skirt.
To make circular skirt fit we'll when
the waist measure is quite large in pro-
portion to the hips a whole lining will be
required. The pattern will be cut in lining
and pinned to the figure, being careful to
have the center front at exactly the right
point, then slashes are made from the
waist line downward to the edge Of the
hips in about the same places as gore
seams would come. Open these VS. and
pin the skirt to a tape placed around the
waist, then remove the skirt and insert
wedge-shaped pieces of lining in the slash
ings. When placed on the figure again, 1t
will be seen that the skirt hangs in ugly
ings Pin these folds down like a pleated
skirt until the set is good, and, if a stout
woman is to be fitted, pleat in the center
front may be necessary. Now lay on a
table nat. and cut the cloth. not removing