Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-02-03
fussiness, or bristle with priceless needle-
work.
Latest Ideas.

At great dressmaking establishment.
which makes speciality of mourning in
all degrees of smartness, were gathered
some of the latest Partisan ideas for black.
Five gowns shown upon this page give three
dressy day effects and two evening toiiettes
in empire style.
The most useful of the day frocks is de-
cidedly the one at the right, which was de-
signed for second black Duil-finished serge
is the material of this, chiffon silk sliirred
over cords being used for the skirt border
and bolero trimming. The furs are OF lynx
and the hat of dull silk and mourning
feathers" with veil drapery at the back
of net edged with a fold of silk.
Mourning feathers are decidedly novelty
in the world of black. for though entire
birds have long been used the ostrich plume
has up 80 now been deharred. The mourn
ing touch is now given by pasting the stem
with Grape or dull silk. and adding fiecks OF
the same to the fringes The feathers are
not greatly in demand and are generally
made to order.
Another novel hat ornament is a huge
quill or perhaps pair made entirely OF
Grape. and put on the hat in stiff gun
ways.
Black Chiffon Cloth.
The second gown in point of usefulness
in this picture, is the one at the left. which
is of black chiffon cloth. Cloth puffings
trim the skirt in a way to effect the idea
of an overdress; and the high girdie and
dark line about the stock are of dull SILK.
The jaunty felt and ribbon chapeau with
this gown is lifted high at the back, where
from a huge bunch of black SILK chTySaH-
themums depends a net veil, hemmed ana
tucked. Chrysanthemums, by the way, are
the favorite mourning flowers here.
Chiffon cloth is also the material OF the
center frock which is a species of princess
with an empire body effect Ehe run shiIt
is tucked above the knees and gathered
with an under stirring slightly into the hg-
IT, Ern1H q
of dull jet and a ruffied collar of white
Swiss are becoming details of the bodice,
whose sleeves are elbow length and finished
with a double cuff and Swiss rutfie.
a bird of paradise plume decks the 1aunty
hat for this feathery plumage IS thought
very suitable to the smarter e%lsehcles Oh
black.
Finally these gowns are proper for either
morning or afternoon wear, but as smart
women never go out in Paris TIL after the
second breakfast they may safely be dupDed
toilettes d'apres midi with accessories
modified somewhat they are suited to
yonng widows even in the first nine months
of black.
Two Stylish Models.
The two evening frocks are copies of sec
ond mourning models supplied for recent
reception at one of the foreign embassies.
Both are of black lace and net magnlh-
Gently embroidered with duh jet and rib
bon Broad bands of the ribbon form the
borders of the skirts and bodice trimmings
and the long gloves are of glace kid
Gloves are very serious item with Well
kept-up mourning, for suede is entirely
used for deep black, and such gloves are
soon damaged. The elbow sleeves of all
the smart gowns also necessitate enormous
lengths ~one yard not being thought DIT
too long for the street glove. But the
careless wrinkling, which must show, takes
up much of this.
In the way Of accessories, a new thing In
turn-over collars is a little band of white
Swiss edged with hem of black Swiss
Cuffs often go with these, though the col
lar may often be worn without, and some
smart Tittle handkerchfefs are edged very
narrowly and cross barred with black.
Much jewelry is worn, though Tor nrst
mourning it Is all of the unburn1shed sort,
and takes chiefly the form of bangle brace
lets. which are worn outside the glove, ana
short bead chains, three kinds of when
may be twisted about the neck ,r--,rr
NINA FITCH.