The San Francisco call., 1906-10-07

ly, for II has in IL the possibilities of
great vulgarity, but, treated by a clev-
er artist and worn by a graceful figure,
the fashion is so attractive that ii is
sure to be adopted. Surah rather than
taffeta is chosen for the Innings, and
In order that the gown shall hang al
ways with the folds in place there is
shot put in through the tucks. With
a lining that has an attached hounce,
as have most of the Innings now where
the founce is joined to the upper part
Of the skirt, there is a tuck and this
tuck is filed with shot; then around
the foot of the skirt again are placed
shot at regular intervals This holds
the folds OF the lining down into place,
and Of necessity the upper part, that
IS, the gown itself, follows the same
lines without having to be held down
itself. All these are tricks of the trade
that are not generally known. but
they are the details that make for so
much in the general appearance of any
fashion so pronounced as the empire.
The real empire gown has princess
lining with a great flare around the
foot and, as has been said, these
masses of shot to weigh 1T down.
The outer part, the gown itself, does
not fit as tightly as the lining, but
1t follows the lines precisely in front
and at the sides it fits almost as close
quite so close at the sides. In the back
there is more fullness and there is
more than a suspicion Of the old-time
Vatican pleat effect. This, when care
fully managed, is graceful, but if there
is too much Of the old-fashioned Wat
teau pleat effect it is extremely ugly.
For the evening the transparent ma
terials are all tremendously in demand
the spangle gowns, Jetted nets, hand
painted chiffon and tulle; all these lend
themselves to the best possible advan-
tage in carrying out the desired lines
In cloth-and there are many exquisite
gowns of cloth made in this model
the very softest and most pIiable
weaves should be used, because anv-
thing that is stiff or too heavy will en-
tirely obliterate any grace of line For
tunately in these days there are num-
berless weaves of cloth, some of them
exquisitely fine and all supple and
useful for just this sort of gown. The
pastelle shades will be worn again.
white is to be fashionable and there
are any number of most attractive
black gowns. These black gowns can
be enlivened easily by the embrofd-
cries. for an empire gown without
embroidery is really quite an irnpos-
sibility. The band across the bust or
the bolero Jacket, which is preferred
by many as being rather softer than
band around the skirt both afford ex-
cellent opportunities to display efrec-
tive embroideries, and 1T is now rather
a fad to use tne more elaborate color
ing, while gold and silver are tremen-
dously popular. Gold and silver braid
and thread have attained a finish OF
workmanship that makes them much
more useful than they were. They do
not tarnish so easily and consequently
people do not mind paying the large
prices that are asked.
The silver and gold thread of oIden
times that tarnished almost as quickly
as it was put on proved but sorry
investment, for it never was very
cheap and OF course now there are a
great many grades of silver and gold
thread and braid that are open to the
same condition, but 1t is quite possible
10 find them and at fairly reasonable
prices. and Of such good finish as to
make them quite durable enough One
strong objection urged against the en-
pire gown is on account of this ex-
pensive and noticeable embroidery as
well as the fact that the lines of the
gown are more or less conspicuous, in
other words, by next season the gown
will be marked. as it were-knpwn as
a last seasons model. That fact, how
ever, seems to carry little weight with