Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-27
SLEEVES AND HATS
FOR EARLY FALL WEAR

Special Dispatch to The Star
NEW YORK, October A.-Acting upon
the assumption that detailed description
of a few of the newest and prettiest au-
tumn hats is worth more than columns OF
general observation concerning the millin-
cry of the hour. let me award the prize for
elegance and pictorial effect to the Lam
bale model.
The hat In q way recalls the English
Dolly Warden shape, and is very simply
trimmed with a mass of plumage or flow
ers on the crown and at the back, with q
ribbon bow and hair-colored tulle. that
popular brown shade that does not appear
to falter as a fashionable millinery Access
sorry.
One such hat shown to me last week had
a brim of stretched taupe-colored satin and
a crown made of handsome ribbon covered
with a blurred pattern in fuchsia and rose.
while waving on high were the handsomest
ostrich feathers, each quite short and with
the tip curved down gracefully over the
brim.
With a fervent hope that the little
feathers used for the autumn plumage hat
are only those Of the barndoor fowl or
game birds, let me chronicle an absolute
furore for such millinery and In all shapes
One model has a crown of shaded green
plumage and a brim of wood-brown braid
straw. which Is, of course. much more SUBJ
Stantldl IMAM emp OF teSUOTll, anu mus
more autumnal. and another Is made OF all
the most delicate creams, browns and
dash of orange folded as IL 1t were velvet
as regards the crown and given rolled
brim
Ribbon and ,ngs are the two promi aent
adjuncts of the millinery world at present
with the exception of ostrich feathers.
which are always In fashion, and mara
bout. to be used this autumn in the form
of huge, soft pompons. Some OF the tur-
bans with their pointed fronts and draped
crowns need nothing more than a suffi-
cheney of ribbon to trim them.
Very piquant Is the appearance of such
hat when trimmed with sash of Excess
svely rich ribbon. as stiff In texture as the
old Coventry pieces were in the days when
book markers were in fashion as keep
sakes.
The question of the long or short sleeve
is Just now agitating the mind Of the
woman of fashion to an extent which seems
almost out of proportion to the Importance
of the subject. Where the dressy gown Is
concerned there is no doubt that the short
sleeve will have triumphant reign. and
no considerations of cold or OF economy in
the matter Of gloves will induce the woman
of fashion to abandon it for that of more
sensible length. The same applies to the
more elaborate description OF coat.
All the small coats of ornate charac-
ter, in fact. are to be furnished with sleeves
which. If not actually of elbow length. are
very rarely longer. The little more" is.
however very carefully measured out by
the fashionable tailor, as most of the COM
promises between the long and short sleeve |
have a tendency to spoil the whole APP
pearance of the gown, almost suggesting a |
garment which has been grown out Of
Even the fur models of an elaborate de- |
scription are all of them fashioned with |
short sleeves, some being made with deep |
cuff which car be turned up or down, ar !
swering either purpose equally well.
Where the severe tailor-made. however, |
which Will be greatly in evidence this sea-
son. is concerned. short sleeve is an incon-
gruity which no well-dressed woman will |
permit and in case Of this kind only a |
moderate fullness at the shoulder Is permit !
ted the cuff reaching to the wrist. One or |
two of the leading tailors are introducing |
the dropping shoulder effects or a couple Of |
years ago, but whether or not this will |
be adopted by many devotees OF fashion |
is still a moot point
Walstcoats of checked material with |
bolero of plain cloth will be interesting |
feature of the new autumn costumes. |
Thes. Waistcoats will be bordered with |
plain cloth to match, and supplemented |
with sleeves OF the checked material. the |
bolero which will be worn with them being |
made in many cases with short epaulette |
sleeves terminating half way between the |
shoulder and elbow. Most of the skirts |
are made with front panels which are mar
rover at the top, in many instances than |
they were last year, but graduate toward |
the hem. Box-pleated skirts are Also to |
the fore. and in cases where the cut of the |
jupe Is of tho most simple description they |
are often finished at the back with couple |
Of narrow x-pleats. |