Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-17

a simple mourning gown, and looks well
also with the linen costumes that SO
extremely popular.
1t is a question whether flowers or feath-
ers are the most fashionable at the moment
With the outcry against the wearing of
aigrettes they will undoubtedly go out of
fashion; in fact, they will have to, but
ostrich feathers and marabout apparently
do not c)me under the same rigid law. and
in the meantime it will be perfectly safe to
go on wearing them and simply not buy
any more. The lght-coored hats trimmed
with tulle and ostrich plunes and made of
erin or very fine straw are charming with
the light and dainty summer frocks, and
the small hats with hard lines are made
much more becoming when tulle and soft
feathers are used than when velvet and
flowers alone are chosen The woman who
can wear velvet against her face and to
whom stiff effects not unbecoming can
this season appear unusually distinctive and
original in her dress, but when such styles
are not becoming 1t is far better to choose
the trimmings that are softer and which
lend their Stiffness 10 the lines of ones
features. The very fine, old-fashionei chip
and Neapolitan straw very attractive
made up in some of the small hats. There
IS one shape that is especially good, ap-
parently between a toque and turban-
1t is of medium size, or what might be
called practical size. 1t has a low, round
crown, around which is a wreath of flow
erS pleatingS of tulle At the left side
is a bunch of ostrich tips, four in number
that fall the crown and also on to
the hair at the back. This can be made in
any color, but Is especially good in black
and pale gray or white.
And now come big hats In size there
bids fair to be exaggeration, for although
at the beginning OF any such fashion the
shapes and sizes seem just right as time
goes on they are bound to increase and
very soon become so exaggerated as to be
like caricatures of the original designs. At
present they are charming-m graceful
in outline-and, while on the picture order,
have at the same time much smarter ef-
fects than picture hats often possess for
the great trouble with picture hat, like
the picture gown. is that it misses some
thing, and consequently can only be at
tempted by the limited few. There is a
hint of the Gainsborough in many of the
new shapes-a decided crown, a wide brim
that turns up at the side, while the feath-
ers, or rather, plumes. that fall forward
are all on the same order, and the masses
of tulle inside the brim soften the face
immensely and take the place of the masses
of hair that had to be worn with the small
hats. Be 1t understood, however that
more hair than generally falls to the lot
of any one woman is still demanded for
the fashionable hat. and curls and braid and
puffs are all to be seen, and often all of them
on one head. This position OF the quantity
of tulle under the brim of the hat is of
wonderful avail In making hat becoming
and there is no rule as to what color you
may put in there. 1t is still fashionable to
use the light-brown malines; block tuIle
is seen, but with the Panama or Leghorn
hats tulle the same color or a shade deeper
lis the most becoming and effective.
Almost without exception the brims of
the large hats wired and then bent into
apparently natural graceful curves. 1t
will be quite impossible for any brim of the
width seen on most of these hats to fall
into graceful curves, and yet at the same
time there must not be any suspicion Of
stiffness. A very fashionable effect is one
given by two or three different kinds of
straw used in the same hat. The center
part of the brim. for instance, will be trans
parent, while the brim and the crown will
be solid. This Is rather following the
lines of the satin crown hat, and in truth
there are a lot of summer hats that still
have the satin crowns, while the brims
of two kinds of straw. A twist of ribbon
around the crown or folds of ribbon with
a large bow toward the front and then
the ostrich plumes is the usual trimming.
But there charming leghorns intended
to wear with the batiste anA muslin gowns
that are trimmed with a wreath of flowers
around the crown. with the colors of the
straw carried throughout them or with SIM
ply the old style that is always popular
the long ostrich plume around the crown
or even the old-fashioned wreath of roses.
There can be any colors chosen, and black
trimmings white yellow hats are
thought very smart. These black and yell