davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05

| surely be seen again next summer and. al
though there may be new novelties to copy
IN skirts and waists, these same gowns are
made up In so liberal an allowance of ma
terial there will be no difficulty In having
them made over so as to be quite up to
date
Apparently the medium-length half-f1ttine
coat, neither short nor long. is to be IA
vorite this autumn and next year, and no
end of novelties in that design are to be
seen. 1t affords q capital opportunity for
the display of embroidery or for the COM
bining of lace entire deux and embroidery
on the material itself. This is, of course,
more effective in white, for the color eff
feet somehow seems smarter than when
colored embroidery and white lace are COM
bined. even when the embroidery is the
exact shade of the material, and partly on
that account the all-white coats with al
ternate lace and embroidery are considered
especially smart
Originality In the patterns Is largely
sought for and In consequence there is
great rivalry as to the designing. de-
sign effective in itself is not always so sat-
isfactory when the gown is made u. as 1t
appeared in the original sketch. and 1t Is
claimed for some of the snartest gowns
that the material has first been sewn to-
gether and then the pattern outlined upon
it Be that as 1t may, 1t Is certain that the
greatest skill and artistic talent find
full opportunity in this fad of fashion fol-
lowers, for even gowns for midwinter, of
which the favored few are vouchsafed
glimpse exhibit the most marvellous of en-
broidery and braiding.
Until this time of the year the prices de-
manded for the handsomest of the embroid-
cred costumes have been somewhat prohib-
itory to the larger number-the great ma
tority of the feminine worid-but this is the
time of year when the true bargain hunter
goes in search of rare game, and she finds
IL strange to say, in the embroidered
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05
Linen CostuneWth Eyelet En- broderu

gowns no less than in those of such matcs
rial and design as seem only adapted TO
the moment The embroidery Itself. so IT Is
commended may belt is safe to assert 10
will be-fashionable for several seasons:
| but 1t Is the style of the gown itself that
may change before next season. truly
smart embroidered gown may now be had
for third of the price originally asked for
II, simply because IL has been late in com.
Ing from the work room, because for
some inexplicable reason 1t was overlooked
when such number of gowns all the
same order were being shown. Now can ba
found charmin"iy dainty linen gowns IN
pale mauve blue or pink. sometimes rather
eccentric, but always smart; again rather
too plain were II not for the bands of en-
broidery around the collar and cuffs. This
embroidery is exceedingly fine and dainty,
OF course, among all the leftover gowns
there are many that have not found favor
on account of their being too eccentric, too
ugly or In some way impossible. These ara
not bargains even when covered with en-
broidery, for close inspection will reveal
that the embroidery Is coarse. although eff
fective, and the material is the same It 10
always a much better plan to choose q
gown with less embroidery and OF finer ma
terial. some of the smartest of all being. as
has been stated, quite plain save In the EN-
oroidery on cuffs or collar
The Jackets. diverse in shape and style,
often are deliberately braided on TIE back
and front. while on the skirt there is only
embroidery just around the hem. Again.
the skirt will have the most of the embroid-
cry and on the jacket there will be only the
sleeves and the collar with the embroidery
Altogether, 1t is decidedly puzzlng to tell
just which style is the most to be desired,
and the rule is that what is the most be-
coming and has the smartest effect should
be chosen rather than to let the fine worE
cast the deciding vote ALI the same, be II
remembered that too coarse material and
embroidery are not desirable purchases un-
less economy does not enter into the calcu-
lations at all and the number of gowns in
Guided in the summer outfit be practically
unlimited
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05
Aquatic Prophecies.

From the New York Press.
There is a new phase of dress for the
water girl. OF course, II Is quite right 10
wear smart clothes II on houseboat or
beautiful lawn: but for real aquatic pur-
poses. and for the genuine river girl, elabo-
ration in dress is not nearly SO suitable as
the more practical and simple style Of gar
uaents which used 10 be considered appro-
pirate But now that the cult of the tailor
made has become a power in the land we
see very expensive and beautifully made
frocks contributing to the gayness OF the
regattas-expensive by reason of much
studied negligence" and beautiful by rea-
son OF extreme simplicity Of effect.
A general survey OF fashions convinces
one that much of the river dressing has In
the past been OF far too elaborate an order.
and that II is the Frenchwoman nowadays
who knows how to choose the most eff
fective clothes for country pursuits; In this
department of dress she has made simple
ity real art. As a matter of fact, you can
combine utility with indulgence IN artistic
taste and this combination can be most adj
vantageously carried out by the wearing Of
large, shady hats on the river. For, de-
spite poetic illusions TO cool breezes or
rneandering streams, nothing can be hotter
than the water on crowded summer Sun
day when 1t Is hot, or anything more try
ing to skin and complexion than river
bree.es. IL there are any. combined with
river sun At the same time there are
many girls who look their best when punt
ing or rowing. Punting, by the way. is a
graceful exercise. and one that Is well call
culated to display figure and dress at their
best IL you know how to manage the pole
properly and 1t need not be, and II should
not be, of violent nature A suggestion
for q dress for the water Is a coarse linen
frock trimmed with black and white lacng.
This IS a corselet skirt. and Is short enough
TO be practical, and to keep dry even in
punting. 1t Is worn with a fascinating
open-work white embroidery blouse, the
skirt being connected by braces of the linen,
laced In black. Such a garment, while pre-
serving all ideas of neatness--that Is to say,
the skirf and hand are In onae-is NOT npiY
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05
The Black Note in Dress.
,om the Woman,s Homo Companion.

From the woman's Home Companion.
Il have to report said the girl whose
hair looked as II the sunshine had been
caught in its meshes, that my weekend
at Southampton has convinced me that we
ought to be up and doing in regard to the
black note that Is creeping into the FASH
ions. At the Casino dance ! specially no.
uced II, and 1t was used in the smartest
of ways. Therefore my frill. which I re-
spectfully submit to the club this morning,
Is a little ribbon velvet bolero all in black.
/ am making one for myself of black rib
bon velvet bands, alternating with narrow
er bands of black lace insertion. II has
full elbow sleeves, and I know when I wear
1t with my nght-colored summary clothes
1t Is going to look too smart for anything
There Is no denying that everything is
the little wrap just now, From the very
start have felt as though were contribut-
Ing more than my share to the fne-box
and some weeks ago just determined that
I would not pay for all the lunch In town,
and so wrote beseeching letter to a girl
know who's in Paris this summer" said
the secretary OF the club. she wrote me
an awfully funny letter, deploring the way
and told me slot of new little things about
the fashions. She, too, spoke OF the black
tendency, and said that big black-and-
white checked silk skirts were being worn
by the really, truly Parisienne. She said
that all the French women were wearing
natural flower or two somewhere OF. their
costume, and the rarer the flower the bet
ter they liked It.
'.She also added they often wear natural
flowers as hat trimming, changing them
two and three times day
'iShe said she had never dreamed of any
thinE like the hatpins. thai it was toss
up whether they reminded her more Of q
hens egg or a stocking darner. The ma
jarity OF them are made OF tortoise shell OF
amber, ard some are studded with little
gold nail heads. Others are of big pieces
OF pink coral. and even when they are OF
gold and Jewels they are bigger than any
hatpin that she had ever seen heforer
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05
New Shoes and Stockings.

: Pastel-tinted footwear is the latest word
from the summer girl. Not content with
having all the rest of her wardrobe wash
able, she has started out TO supply herself
with wash shoes. That is. they are made
of wash material although they cannot. Of
course, be washed. Pumps are now being
shown at the exclusive shops made OF
heavy madras, plain white figured white
material, white having black pin stripes and
white with pin stripes IN the palest of pas
tel lavender blue and pink.
To match. these delicacies of the toilet
are to be had white-figured and lace.
trimmed stockings. These are not of silk,
as that would not be suitable with the
wash shoes but of Isle thread They are
very delicately embroidered In the faintest
pastel shades. to match the color of th9
gown to be worn. Many, Of course, are
not embroidered In colors-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05
The Seasons in
Millinery Flowers

JUDGING from the dainty CONNECTIONS
which cover many women's heads this
j season II would seem that a point is
being made OF wearing artificial flowers in
tune with the season. Since the peneten-
tial season of Lent. when the violet was the
favorite artificial flower, a rapid succession
OF spring and summer blossoms has ap-
peared on smart hats. Many women have
become so alive to this idea of wearing ar
ttncial flowers peculiar to the season that
they strip of garniture of flowers as soon
as their natural season is past and replace
IL with another, even II II Is to be retained
but two or three weeks
HelIotrope and honeysuckle have been
perhaps more in vogue this summer than
any other artificial flowers. Both have
been exquisite in make and color. The
heliotrope has been considerably seen on
hats with yellow roses, and the couibina-
ton thus formed has few rivals In beauty.
Elaborate garnitures OF artificial cherries
and currants were popular In Paris earlier
In July, when the fashion met with rather
an amusing setback. A woman appeared
one night at the Coincide Francois wearing
with the utmost sang frold cream-colored
lace headdress trimmed with a huge bunch
OF cherries. inside each of the fruits there
was most cleverly contrived a little electric
light The next day In Paris nothing
was harder to find at a milliners OF good
standing than such headdress or such a
bunch OF cherries.
Already in Paris hats are being shown TO
American tourists for autumn. For these
chryssnthemums are In the highest favor.
Yellow ones. and those OF deep, rich red
ara seen on toques OF woolly looking Drown
and green felt, while velvety white chrys-
anthemums are held in reserve for the win
ter. These latter will sarnish black toQues.
Almost as conspicuous as ehrysanthemums
for autumn wear are the wonderful iniita-
tons of oak leaves and acorns which have
fallen on fashionable hats. Many OF the
acorns are bright green, as though In the
freshness of youth. while others are deep
brown or even black and appear to have
wrestled with all the storms. OF winter
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05
Little Notions
of the Moment

A UTOMOBILD fnery continues to
~ grow in perfection OF style with
every season The masculine auto
mobile toggery keeps up to the mark set by
women motorists, and In this department
of dress at least there are as many new
and expensive things for men as for wom-
en-. The pongee busters are now highly
popular with men, and indeed are much
more sensible than the linen ones as they
do not muss so quickly. The brown linen
busters have certain character and style,
especially for men. but they are not COM
Portable. being stiff and cumbersome The
rajah busters. though perhaps not quite so
attractive for masculine wear at first
glance, are very useful. They are shown In
tan, brown, gray and very dark. dull red,
almost brown. The bright mustard tones
which were so popular for motoring seem
to have gone out.
There are also the lightweight craven
cite busters and peculiar weave Of mo-
hair. very fine and Of dull finish and light
In weight 1t, comes In duh plaids. black
slate color and dark grayish brown and is
considered most desirable for masculine
motorists.
For the women the most attractive coIors
seem to be light tan. gray and peculiar
light red, something on the coral order. It
is not at all bright. although 1t II light In
tint, and seems to be generally becoming.
Motor gloves for men as well as women
are made of silk mesh, quite open. but
heavy in quality. The palms and under
side OF the fingers are OF leather or kid,
perforated. Quite bright tan or gray
men. Among the women's gloves q very
swagger style Ia In black and white. The
back Of the glove II OF black sick mesh and
the palm OF white kid, perforated.
Pongee caps to match the dust coats, hav-
ing visors and long curtains behind. are
among the most comfortable OF the men
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05

Toned crash or canvas. This Is heavily en-
broidered in the solid embroidery and Is
made up In the coat and skirt costumes.
The design of the embroidery is elaborate
quite covering the front breadth and the
fronts of the jacket and the sleeves, while
q narrow collar Of some light shade of vel
vet gives most. becoming color contrast
The only exception to the elaborate design
of embroidery Is seen in the model. which
has lines of narrow braid down each seam
and around the hem of the skirt, the braid
put far enough apart to allow of rows Of
French knots between. White is the best
color in this sort of linen material and
for some unknown reason looks far smarter
than the colored.
1t is extremely difficult to find a good
black in linen, and, consequently, even in
mourning white is worn In preference. 1t
was not formerly considered correct in first
mourning to wear white, but now that
fashion has ordained that all white is quite
In keeping with mourning, white linen cos
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05

sleeve links of red and white stones-dia-
monds, garnets, carbuncles, rubies or
crystals may be used. The links are In
many different shapes, the distinctive fea-
ture being that one link will be all In red
and the other in white, or else one link will
be made of red stones with diamond In
the center and the other of diamonds with
red stone in the center. Other eobred
stones are also shown in this style, but the
red and white combination seems to be the
favorite one. And this is not only true of
the sleeve links. In brooches and brace
lets as well the red and white stones figure
largely.
Another odd pair of sleeve links for a per-
son Of sporting. prochvities had one link
ornamented with wild duck in enamel
and another with a bird dog The links
were oval and concave in shape. The fig
ures were in relief and covered with
ecrystal.
Another evidence of the popularity of
mixed color schemes in jewelry than that
afforded by the cuff links is shown in the
revived popularity of the little flower bas-
kets which were fashionable many years
ago. The baskets, of gold lattice work. are
filled with flowers made of various coiored
jewels. The ornament is used for brooch.
These brooches, when formerly used. were
usually OF French filigree and paste Jewels
and were exceedingly pretty although COM
paratively inexpensive. number OF them
were disposed OF at the sale of the effects
OF the late Mrs Gilbert, the well-known
actress. They went for mere song, al
though they Were In fact, prettier than the
new brooches of similar pattern. although
the new ones are made Of genuine stones
and are very expensive.
Pink and white stones are also fashion
able combination Among the most attrac-
tive bracelets at the jewelers. are those of
pink and white baroQue pearls linked to-
gether with a deeper pink amethyst.
Petticoats to be worn with summer frocks
are now very prettily made with embroid-
cred ruff1es. Nothing could be simpler than
this method. An embroidered founce as
wide as one wishes Is chosen. with some In
sertion in the same design. The insertion,
which should be on very thin material. Is
used as casing on a straight band above
the founces Ribbon the color Of the gown
to be worn Is then run through this casing.
completing most attractive skirt
Corset covers made of afl-over enbroid-
cred betiste are very, attractive. All the
trimming that Is necessary Is casing of
yalenciennes around the top OF the waist
for ribbon, little lace frill above it and
lace frills around the armhoie.
Most attractive are the new handker-
chiefs Of linen and embroidery. which are
now being shown in the French shops.
They are OF fine linen, but not OF the most
delicate grade Across an entire corner Is
embroidered q scattered flight OF swallows
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05

ders; in fact, they are made in a separate
piece and shaped like stole. This calls
Tor the heavy embroidery not the open
work. yet some of these stoles made of the
openwork and close embroidery combined
are extremely effective
band of. embroidery just around the
hem of the skirt Is always a charming fin
ish and is used in some of the most expen-
sive gowns, but in these days, when skirts
are so rich, 1t takes a lot of embroidery
and the consequent expense is so great that
often 1t is dispensed with. Embroidery on
the material Itself furnishes q splendid OBJ
portunity for the display of fine handwork
and graceful designs, and both on the coll
ored and white linen costumes lis greatly in
demand. Embroidered on linen sheeting,
probably originally intended for that pur-
pose, are some most effective patterns that
can be easily made up into becoming and
graceful costumes in princess, empire and
the coat and skirt styles.
graceful and effective design in con-
ventionalized daisies Is a favorite pattern,
for 1t combines both the heavy and light
embroidery and is especially well adapted
to the heavy linen. The openwork designs,
eyelet hole embroidery, with tracery OF
leaves and vines and insertions of Valen-
ciennes or Irish lace. are most charming in
the firm qualities of linen. or. to speak
more correctly, on the lighter weight. This
latter style Is more often seen on white
than colored material, and the linen or
muslin can be as sheer as a handkerchief
II SO desired. After all. though, these ex-
tremely sheer linens are not the ones to be
included under the term of embroidered
linens and really should be grouped with
lingerie and embroidered muslin gowns
There are flounced skirts in the heavy
linen that are charming, each fiounce with
pattern OF embroidery and finished with~a
scalloped border. smart model las
only the scalloped fiounce. and no other
embroidery, and the high girdle or bodice
has wide bretelles also finished with seal
Hoped edges To wear with this is smart
little jacket, scalloped and with turned
down collar, also scalloped. Made in pale
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05
An EntlreLi1l9erle Costume, Frock, Hat, and
sun Shade,

TSHE season at summer resorts is
now in fun swing and many and
various are the gowns that must
needs be worn by the woman
who wishes to be cons dered
well gowned. The days routine at any of
the fashionable watering places calls for
an endless change Of dress. and now can
be understood the amount OF time and
thought that for weeks have been expended
In order to gather together the full, COM
plete and up-to-date wardrobes required by
the fashionable woman. There Is no sea-
son of the year when one gown is sufficient
for the entire day. but now there must
needs be more than the usual number to
meet all the different requirements of fash
ion. The morning gown demands first at
tention. Under this head must needs be in
Guided many different model. Perhaps
the smartest and most popular are the en-
broidered linens and muslins which, in
stead of losing In popularity as time goes
on become more In demand. Most charm
ing and attractive they are in their differ
ent designs and colorings. and 1t Is aston
ishing how unlike they all are while yet on
the same order.
Colored linens are especially smart this
season, and II Is not to be wondered at
that they have received Fashions seal of
approval. for the colors in themselves are
SO charming, and. Furthermore, even the
less expensive qualities do not fade or
change color either from laundering or
from exposure to the sun. There are many
different models. Some costumes skirt and
coat. are quite plain and almost severe in
effect. the only embroidery being on the
collars and cuffs or in straight panels that
are somewhat on the order OF stole coli
lar. as they hang straight from the shout
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05
Hdnerchlef Linen Efod- With Irish and Vlencaem1eS

tunes are added to the list of those that
can be worn. even during the frst six
months, but embroidery is not thought
proper, and so there is no end Of very SIM
pie white linen costumes made on just the
same lines as the embroidered cnes. but
without even the scalloped bands. 1t Is as
tonishing none the less, to see how ex-
tremely smart these absolutely plain gowns
can look, for they are made of the finest
material and always well cut and carefully
fitted
Princess gowns afford a good opportunity
for the display of fine embroidery, and the
bands of embroidered linen are most eff
fective Then, too, the corselet shirt, with
bands or breteles over the shoulders, and
the smart short jackets can be mass of
embroidery. These have all been described
before but late In the season as 1t may
seem, there are many new models that are
well worth copying, both for wear now and
for the next season, for it may safely be
taken for granted that such gowns win
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05
silks Of the Season.

Pompadonr silks are used for some Of
the prettiest afternoon gowns of the sea-
son.. and foulards are in a mild way REIN
stated to favor.
In the rough silks mirage, sofG iustrous
newcomer in the fashionable ranks, - att
tracing much attention. Raspberry red Is
at its loveliest in Birmingham and ra1ah
silks, coming out as 1t does. in a shade
that Is at once rich and soft
4 The shops are also showing exquisite
shaded mousselines de soies with floral
borders and delightful grapes and GAUGES
patterned with velvet roses. Oriental silks
are with u In several new weaver
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05

find woman in New York under fifty who
doesn't wear one At the beginning of the
seaso nthey sold for as high as Sc in silk
and 81 in linen. and there were no cheap
ones, but now they are advertised every
where for 40 cents
Fortunately for the woman who paid a
high price to get in line two months ago,
the Accent Peter Pans looks like the
traditional thirty. ]. NJ. Barrie would be
gratifed at the immense popularity of his
little semi-fairy boys waist" Half the
people who buy them don't know why they
are given that peculiar name.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05

becoming to the figure but Is perfectly
practical. and the blouse Is cool and COM
Portable. and though wells may interfere
with practical punting. they are one of the
most becoming accessories of the toilet in
vented by the modern milliner and worn
by the modern woman If securely held
by number of pins. they need only float
becomingly In the breeze and will more or
less preserve the symmetry of your Golf
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-05
UndeAled English.

From Country Lie
The speaking of simple. pure English q
the very rarest accomplishment even among
cultivated people. The slang OF the street,
the catchword OF the music hall. the gay,
br.ght-coIored expression OF the wastefiil
and gangrel man are much more quickly
assimilated than are the accents of Chaus
Ger or of Shakespeare.