Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1906-05-30
SACK COAT FOR SUMNER.
NewYork sun


New York sun.
Mems dress has not, since the early
eighties, been so pronounced IN style
as 1t is to-day and 10 does not seem
likely that there will be any imme-
diate reaction against this tendency
Mems clothes are going TO he more
conspicuous before they are quieter.
A chart Of summer styles issued by
firm Of London designers has just
reached New York. All the men wear
ing the marvellous clothes IL shows are
young. IL would not, Of course, be
expected that older men would ever
follow such decided fashions.
Most Of these new suits are in
hannela for summer wear. One is
double breasted with the coat cut
rather high in the collar. There are
a breast and two side pockets put on a
slight angle, for the coat. The sleeves
have deep set on cuff and the four
buttons may really he undone, so care
ful is the making.
10 is the cut Of this cont which
makes it 30 unusual. OF ordinary
breadth over the shoulders. made with
out atitfening or padding Of any kind,
the coat is cut to fit in to the figure as
closely as If 10 we're made for n woman.
As 10 is worn SO close about the waist,
IL is proportionately full over the hips.
Curves not natural TO the male figure
are supplied by the skill Of the cutter.
The coat is 30 long as 20 fall we'll be-
tween the waist and the knee. This
particular garment was made up in "a
dark blue flannel relieved with q
white stripe at intervals Of an inch.
Like all flannel suits, IL was not sup
piled with a waistcoat
The loose trousers, worn with a belt,
are rather broad and long enough to
he turned up with a deep roll.
Nothing 80 pronounced in style as
this sack coat has been seen here this
spring. 70 is fair TO say, however,
that June or July will bring them out
and Newport and the late summer
will undoubtedly see specimens made
by New York tailors.
IL Is the sack coat which seems this
year to invite the improvements of
the designers. Equally out of the or
| dinary was the new tweed sack suit
shown on the English chart. II was
cut TO a point below the hips, supplied
with a breast and two side pockets.
put on at an angle and has narrow set
on cuffs of the material None Of
these summer suits has regular turned
back cuffs, as tho material is too thin
to wear for more than very short
time. This particular coat had three
buttons at the sleeve.
IL was the collar, however, that was
its most distinguishing feature. Prac-
tically there was only one button on
the front Of the coat, whore under or.
dinary circumstances there should
have been three. The single button
used was at the bottom Of tho coat.
The sides of the coat were so turned
back from this button as to form a roll
collar OF the kind used on dinner lack.
cts. The lapels were not pressed al
any point. They we're simply turned
back from the collar and fell away In
o loose roll down TO the single button.
There were no other button holes on
the long roll collar II was simpl,
intended to be caught at the bottom
and thrown back on each side.
The coat front, below the single
button, fell straight with rounded
edges. With this coat was a high cut.
single breasted waistcoat OF the same
material. II was cut so high as tr
leave but a small place for the tie.
1t is this style which has made tho
narrow ties so much the mode TODAY.
These waistcoats are always finished
with a small collar.
This style Of pulling back a cola,
from the last button Of the coat is.
Of course, the final result of the ten
dency TO roll the collar back until !
part Of the waistcoat can be seen.
None Of the New York tailors has .,
far carried the tendency TO this Lon.
don extent. Already there are Fiftl
avenue tailors making coats with onl,
one button, both In hannels ane
lighter tweeds. They have not tn,
courage of the London tailors in NUT
ting this solitary button at the bot
, tom of the coat front. They beg tb,
question by putting it in the middle
Ot the two fashions there is mucl
more smartness in the out and ou
London roll of a depth equal nearly {,
the length Of the coat than there IS il
the New York compromise.
All these liberties with the sack Goa
have tended TO make it a carmen
almost as variable in shape as the din
, ner jacket which tailors have beer
changing and altering at their pleas
ure Tor years past. Now the staid sacl
, coat, which was always regarded "a
more or less fixed boy the contentious
IS greatly heightened or shortened n
the tailors decide what the fashion
shall be. Now the sack has been shorl
by the designers of all but one button
Most Of these changes came from Lon
don, whore the sack coat is locke
, upon as such an informal carmen
that anything may be done to IL.
As a specimen of summer informaiit
which avoiss on one side the Londoi
eXaggeratedness Of style yet shows Ia
! proper defefence TO the advance h