The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-10-25
THE FASHIONS.
FALL AND WINTER MILLTN-
 FRY
Literally the CrowningGlory of n Cos
 tume--OddShapes and Trimmings.

ant Item or dress tnls COliiA6 90e"S0iA there can be no reasonable doubt. Also to judge from the number and variety of models on exhibition, there would seem to be no reasonable excuse TOT the appearance of an unhecomlng hat. However. that is largely q matter of taste and viewpoint, but al any rate, each of us ought to be able to please herself In the matter.
 The newest thing Is the Madame" an elongated turban with single long and very heavy plume over either side. The plumes, if they do not match exactly, at least must blend harmoniuosly with the color of the hat. Few striking contrasts are noted in exclusive millinery, even the metal buckles, of which a great number will be used, being toned to correspond.
 The Parislan manufacturers have given us some beautiful artificial triln- rnings in the way of aigrettes, wings, breats, etc., which really show deli cacy or richness of coloring and con- binations quite impossible with the real ones. These are made up of turkey wings, hens feathers, wild duck and goose qullls and the plumage of vari- ous other domestic birds, often five or six being utilized in the makeup of a single ornament.
 The perfectly round turban has re- turned, this time with the trimming, usually plume or some velvet ribbon loops, starting from the front under heath a rosette or buckle and extend- ing in arched fashion over the top and side, dropping down over the hair at the back.
 The Louis Seize shape species of exaggerated French sailor, is In vogue as dress hat The brim curves up- ward ever so slightly at the sides and wound with an ostrich feather, the tip of which falls over the brim at the side back, is extremely fetching worn by the tall young woman.
 Then there are the scooped hats. which strongly suggest the Salvation Army bonnets, except that they are not quite as flarlng. One model of this sort noticed recently had a crown of smoke-gray French felt, the trimmings consisting of folds of velvet shading from one tone to another, while under meath the brim was facing of plaited chiffon of the lightest possible gray tint and La France rose perched just at one side. These pokes, which have never proved popular since the season bf their introduction some years ago, fortunately have narrow ppturned brims at the. back, which preserves them from the usual ugliness
 When the first millinery notes were sent out 1t was announced that ostrich feathers, and especially the long. un- curled specimens, would be utterly out of the running this season, but, con- trary to this prophecy, fully nine-tenths of the models, b3th foreign and domes- tic are decorated with ostrich plumes, although 1t is true that the short feath- CTS and tips are less in evidence, per- haps than ever they were,
 The long plumes are very graceful and also they are expensive, for only a good one should be considered. The shaded plumes are marvels of beauty, and give a wonderfully pleas ing effect to a monochrome costume. At recent smart afternoon function a New York woman, noted for her fine taste in dress, was gowned all in smoke gray chiffon cloth of the lightest weight. The skirt was cut circular with three folds around 1t, each dip- ping slightly in front, and each piped with velvet of darker shade. The coat had skirt which extended about a foot below the waist line in back while the fronts were curved in blazer fashion, displaying vest of velvet At least 1t was plainly made so that later on the velvet vest might be put in evidence. On this occasion the yes was turned back to form wide revers and the vest was formed of cascade, of rare old lace, another of the olt styles returned.
 Long lines in back and shorter one in front seem to be the general ten dency in autumn modes, rather thar the unbroken lines of last season Skirts are almost invariably trimmed while coats and jackets grow more complicated in detail with every new design. Tailor-mades are elaborat affairs, quite belying their name, a originally conceived, and all attempt to revive their severity appear to hay been frultless. The trimmings for thes tailormodes are not, by any means, tn least item of expense The new sil braids interwoven with colors or wit gold and silver. threads, the beautifr silk and velvet passementeries, thos new metallic cords which are used edge folds or plainer braids the multi tude of fancy ornaments, and last. bu not least, the silk or crochet-covere buttons are all expensive, and all use in a lavish manner.
 Even the new English and Scotc weaves, which would ordinarily requlr little trimming. are loaded with garn lures of all. sorts, not forgetting somC where in their makeup the touch ( black or white which every costum this seson which is not of plain mate ials, receives.
 Very rich and elegant are some the new broadcloths which come in variety Bever before shown. BrowI and tsrracottas all of the dark shades .of green, and the dark gra! are to ,vbe noted among the mo fashionable colors. Blues are not r ceiving particular attention, therefor undoubtedly some of the most exclu