The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-11
MACARONI IN MANY FORMS.
sixty Kinds From Naples-The Clean Kind
From Genoa.

About A,o00,o 900 boxes OF Neapolitan
macaroni will be imported into the United
States this year. This is the mAcaroni most
used by both native Americans and Italians
residents, not because it is the best, but
because IL is the cheapest imported and be-
cause 1t comes In the greatest variety OF
forms.
There are fully sixty forms Of Neapolitan
macaroni. Native Americans know andu use
only afew Of these, italian residents most OF
the three score. The niceties of macaroni
eating are really q sealed mystery to most
Americans.
The Italian residents use in winter and
spring the pdstina or small paste. In forms
suitable for mixing with soup. In hot
weather they use more commonly the pasta
lunpd. All the year round they use the
forms known as spaghetti, macaroncelli and
perciateM.
The soup pastes are not only in the IA
miliar alphabetic form, but in a dozen
others, as anchors. stars, little seeds and
| the like. The retailer has but to indicate his
wish to the factory and supply the per-
forated plate in order to get any new or
strange form made. The shell like soup
paste called chiolie is made by hand in Italy.
but 1t sells for very little more than the
machine made forms.
Neapolitan macaroni Ia dried in the sun.
as any one knows who has seen 1t hanging
in the dust of busy streets in Italy and even
in New York. Now, the Genovese paste is
driedupon shallow shelves in big airy rooms.
This accounts in part for the higher price
of the Genov ese macaroni.
Most we'll to do Italians prefer the Geno-
vese to the Neapolitan paste, but the mass
ever Of northern Italians prefer the Nea-
p~olitian. The total importation of Genovese
macaroni is hardly one-twentieth of the
Neapolitan importation.
There are perhaps forty different forms
Of Genovese paste, but it is best known
as white, yellow (Which is colored and
slightly favored with e%affron), and the
P gsStS VIII The st Chief forms are like those
best known among the Neapolitan forms,
but there is a thin, almost hair like paste
made in Genoa which differs from any
Neapolitan paste.
is used mainly by native Americans save
in regions where there is a large Siciliar
colony. 1t comes mostly in paper pack
ages, and In the forms known specifically a.
spaghetti and macaroni, though there are
many forms like those Of the Neapolitan,
Sicilian paste is not so cheap as the Neapoli
tan and not 30 good as the Genovese.
Tuscan paste is little known to native
Americans, though it has a great reputation
in Italy for special purposes and is the mos
expensive made. 1t is mostly small paste
like that used in soups. Tuscan paste fol
the sick is put up in packages of from nine
ounces to two pounds.
That made from the best wheat O.
northern Italy is held to be more delicate
and nourishing than that made in othel
parts Of Italy. Gluten paste is a Tuscan
product made specially for persons OF veal
digestion or deficient nourishment.
There is also a double gluten Tuscan
paste much used by dyspeptics and con
sumptives, and there is a special shell-lkt
form that ia priced much above the chigli'
of Naples. The best Tuscan paste retails il
this country at fully 10 cents a pound; |
ia o~ftenest used with soup, though 1t j
used also dry with sauce.
American macaroni most often initiates
the forms Of the Genovese. An expert IL
macaroni SAYS that the best In this countr,
is made in Texas from Nebraska winteI
wheat. There are scores and perhap
hundreds OF small macaroni factories II
the Italian quarters Of American cities, an
there are besides a few large ~factorie
where m~acaroni ia made commercially on
large scale.
There are three such In and near Ne1
York, there Is one at Pittsburg and Their
are a few scattered throughout the West
In spite Of their activity the American fac
tories are quite unable to supply the do
s.a,t;o rlat