The Birmingham age-herald., 1906-10-14
Fashion and the
 Furricr.
Costly Russian Stables.

The all-saving art of the furrier that lets no scrap of costly fur go to waste makes A modish use of the full sable skins. as depicted In the illustration. Here there are six full skins of this little animal cleverly mounted to flat scarf shape, the skins not being tlat-split, but employed In their natural roundness. It requires six full skins to make this design, and when one considers that q thousand dollars TOT a single fine skin is not by any means q record price, the value of smart set in sables can readily be reckoned. The little heads and tails are used complete and even the little paws with their curved claws like q kittens hang either side of the head and tail The huff is of the fat pouch shape. narrow Ut the top to widen somewhat toward the bottom, where fringe of alternate tails and paws makes for an effective finish.
 The accompanying chapeau depicts one of the broad -brimmed styles of the Di- rectoire period The high crown Is en- swathed In soft chiffon moire silk, and the brim curves up artistically at the side with n wealth of white plumes nodding over the edge. Just a mere suspicion of q bandeau is used at the left side. and the shape conforms more to the size of the head than many recent ones have done.
 In Royal Ermine.
 Last season 1t was the snowy white ermlne that was demanded of the fur riers. but so skifully was that Initiated in the cheapest kind of pelts that nowa- days Dame Fashion demands the ermne that shows slightly yellowish cast throughout, thus making virtue of what was formerly considered blemish. A rf,rht Ia hot ,fat,t ,.a1h hara atxvfth The long stole Is narrowed at the neck portion. so that 1t sets well around the throat without any clumsiness or undue thickness. and below that point 1t broad ems gradually to the waistline, where whole skins are applied flat and trimmed with fringe of little paws and tails. It really would seem as though the ermine might be likened to the cat o'-nine tails for there certainly does seem to be an undue allowance oG those effective little tails that start yellow at the base and deepen into black at the tip. One tall to one ermine seems to be all too little for fashion purposes, but since the fur rier assures us that they are all genuine ermine tails there Is nothing to do but agree with him. The mnff shows that smart turnover effect that Is one of the later novelties, paws and tails being al ternated In proportion to their natural occurrence.
 In velveteen and Ostrich.
 A clever blending of styles Is effected in this delightful costume, in which a mor,lore or rather q marron. brown vel veteen Is contrasted with ccru broadcloth and somewhat deeper shade of satin. The skirt Is built up in simulated princesse style to the bust line, where it meets Il yoke of elaborate Cluny lace. fancy stitches and chiffon. Over this Is posed a short-waisted little bolero that stands well out from the figure and by its fuipess emphasizes the slenderness of the walstne that it barely discloses. The fit at thr waist and above and below 1t is effected in the use of pleats. the material being folded OH itself to achieve the right curve and then cut away be- heath. so that there is neither bulk nor