Waterbury evening Democrat., 1906-02-21

woman, that is not afraid of primitive living. yearns for untrodden paths and acquaintance with people of truly simple life," keenly enjoys the beauty of ice and water, will find him. self or herself rewarded by visit to Iceland, a short sojourn in this land way up on the northern edge of the temperate zone.
 Iceland lies up there quite by itself; far away from it's governing country, 500 miles from Norway and 250 miles distant from Greenland. It is a land of plateaus, of volcanic masses. The inhabitants dwell on the few low grounds, on the coasts and in narrow valleys. The Icelanders, of whom there are only about 10000. mostly live on isolated farms. A very large part of them live by horse. cattle. and sheep raising. Since the glacial period woods have not existed; turf is the principal fuel, though little coal is brought in. The Iceland seas are very stormy, but the Icelanders seem to have a contempt for danger, pay small heed to rough pillows, and 'possess quite a fleet of fishing smacks.
 The summers are quite pleasant, and portions of the northern land bloom with a wonderful carpet of flowers. The kindly summer allows the people to add very agreeably to their fish and mutton and sour-milk diet by the raising of cabbages. potatoes, rhubarb. berries and kind of currant. They are thrifty folk and lay in well for their winter store. When the sheep are in full milk, barrels of "skyr" are made and put away for the winter. Skyr is the national dish. and is noth- ing more than curdled sheep's milk. It is eaten with sugar, and after one gets used to it it Is not so bad. And that It is wholesome and satisfying there is no doubt.
 The intending tourist would best be provided with food of his own when he sets forth on a journey in this coun- try. and he must make up his mind to long miles of horse back riding. There are no trains or carriages, everybody rides for the distances be- tween rabitations are great. Tents and full tent equipment must be taken along, and 1t is advisable to allow two horses for each person in the party. the roads are so rough the animals soon tiring.
 There is much of natural beauty to be seen. and many wonders of nature: but on the whole Iceland is depressing. the people a sober. sad lot. The three months of midnight sun cannot make up for the long dark night of winter. and the people show. by their pallor and lack of yivacity. the need of light and joy. Existence there is hard. Ice lazd surely a somber land in which tc dwell for long.
 Infrequently one comes upon woman of a certain beauty. the beauty of masses of fair hair. clearer com plsxion than the average, fine features and fine eyes. But as q rule they are not comedy.
 If Iceland has no proud present nor hopeful future. she has a splendid past. Mrs. Alec Tveedie. author of "A Girls Ride in Iceland says: Iceland 500 years ago uas an intellectual light in . world Of darkness. and was teaching Europe by literature while the Moors rere teaching advanced scienees" Centuries ago the cream Of the Nor rssisn people settled In Iceland: this fact. taken together with the isolation of the people and their dependence on their ovn resources leading to the rondsr.ul development of story telling to the Iceland Edds
 ELLEN THAYER-