The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-11
NEW THINGS IN MEMS SHIRTS
STRIKING PATTERNS SHOWN FOR
WEAR THIS SUMNER.
Checks Popular With Some Makers-Tho
Soft u Has DlsappeaPed-Flannel
Shirts for outdoor wear Sold at High
Priees-Hints on Correct StarchinK.

Priees Hints ON Correct Starching.
The most notable change In the new mems
shirts shown for spring and summer wear
Is the disappearance Of the turnover,
unstarohed cuff. This years cuff for the
summer neglige shirt is not more than
three inches deep, IL curved at the corners
and starched like an ordinary cuff. Some
excus for the probable popularity Of this
new style will be found in the fact that the
ouff 10 starched. The soft turnover cuffs
are smart, but they canno be worn by
busy men, or at least by men too busy to
change their shirts more than once a day
II necessary. The unstarohed turnover
cuff wears only q short time In summer.
Then the soft Guns did not wear well.
They lasted only q short time when the
laundresses were very careful. One starch
ing put them out Of business. az the linen
broke in the attempt to turn the cuff back.
In spite Of this drawback one Of the large
manufacturers put on the market a large
supply Of shirts with these turnover cuffs
intended to be starohed. As two washings
destroyed them entirely It may he under
stood that they we're not a success.
Another reason for the Introduction Of
the narrow sti1ened Gun this season ia
found In the patterns most popular for the
summer shirts. They are largely in stripes
and checks Of color on a white ground.
It was al indispensable feature of the soft
cuffs that they be made in a solid color.
Even when the solid white cuffs we're used
on goods with a pattern the effect was not
nearly 30 good as when the bosom and the
cuffs were OF the same material.
Some Of the patterns shown in the shops
are striking, although as a whole the ma
terials are lesshighly colored tina they have
been for several years. The smartest de-
signs in ono Fifth avenue shop are con-
sidered to be the materials with a white
ground and checks in crimson, blue and
brown. These checks are formed by thin
lines Of color. In every corner are balls Of
| the color about a quarter Of an inch in
diamet er.
In another shop there are backgrounds
OF blue, yellow. green and gray, ornamented
with groups Of very narrow stripes marked
in various shades Of the color on the baok-
ground. In spite OF The number Of these
stripes the groups are not half an inch in
width. On Il coffee colored ground Of the
shade 80 popular last winter there are
stripes in varied shades Of brown, alternat.
ing with white and black.
Mauve has almost disappeared from the
spring shirts after having been very much
overworked for some time. Blue in a shade
that 10 almost birds egg, although not
metallic, seems to be more popular than
any other shade, although green materials
come in a large variety OF shades and pat
terms. There are also several attractive
patterns with a gray background and differ
ent shades Of gray, black and white in the
stripes. There are always men who prefer
solid c olofs, and they are by no means men
who are behind the styles. They are, on the
contrary, the men who prefer to decide for
themsel Ives what good dressing ia. Plain
| colors are abundant now. as usual, and come
In many beautiful shades Of blue, pink and
mauve.
Men who use these materials believe
that the fancy part OF q shirt had better be
In the making than in the pattern. All
the shirts are made this year with pleats
Of one kind or another. depending in q
measure on the pattern in the goods. The
temporary taste for the plain bosoms did
not survive more than one summer. Plain
madras or linen is made up with broad
boz pleats. They should be 30 broad that
three on each side of the opening are enough.
These pleats run the length Of the bosom
and should be plain. To stitch them down
the centre and on the sides. as some Of the
shirt ma kers like to do, is to rob them Of all
smartness. The shirtmakers like to do
this because It makes the pleats set well
whether or not they are properly put on.
One excuse they give Is that the Plea6s
As q matter Of fact, the pleats, II properly
made, need no such aid.
Striped materials are better when made
up in what the shirtmakers call side pleats.
They arc narrow, and with no intervening
smart bosom for a shirt that Ia likely to
be literally displayed. The checks, on the
other hand, are to be made up only with
the broad box pleats. The narrow pleats
cut them In two in a way hat rob them OF
The body Of the shirt is usually made Of
the same material as the bosom In this
country, although the. French makers
still use crepe or some similar material for
the fancy material. When these shirts
first came from Paris they found little
favor here, because Americans wear their
outing shirts in summer for athletic use.
The effect Of this piabald garment when one
was playing tennis or golf was not beau
ttfll. Only in the white materials are the
bodies made OF a different material: The
pleated bosoms may be ornamented with
different designs III white. but the bodies
are MADE OF pam g0oub'
1t ia interesting to observe the absolute
subaervience Of Americana to the neglige
shirt in summer. None Of the shops shows
any stiff bosomed oolored shirts and the
only ones to be seen with stiff white bosoms
are intended for the most formal wear.
These neglige summer shirts are most
in the mode when they are done up without
starch. Only the cuff should be starched
in the least. The collar band ia better with
| out 1t, and the shirts wear better when the
band is not starched. 1t is the stiff collar
band which causes 30 many shirts with
pleats to split at the neck.
Flannel shirts are made this spring In
better variety than ever before and all have
the standing collar that was brought over
here from London last fall. They combine
very attractive colors. Blue grounds have
a narrow stripe of white, gray is striped
with bright purple and there are eve such
dainty blends as pale pink and pale green.
These shirts come in such light textures
OF flannel that they might be used for any
but the hottest summer weather.
Naturally they are worn with the narrow
tie pulled so tightly az to hold the collar
up. 1t is probably this popularity OF the
style that will prevent them from gaining
anv yn o11a for ditv war amOnn we'll draaRSd