The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-07-07

worn NlIh IMCUt--H uSulOu When we first adopted the word ''lin- gerie" among our fashion terms it ap- piled exclusively to underwear, and that only of the finest of French make, such as showed unmistakably its origin in some dainty conoeit of evcuisite lneedlework.
 Later on we grew bolder and classed the more presumptpous pieces of do- mestic manufacture with these foreign
 articles, and, finally, as another eVi- dence of our American desire to "go one better" we have made of it very expansive term using 1t familiarly to designate not only fine underclothing,
 but dresses and suits made of any of
 the lighter weight cotton or linen ma- terials, Now we do not know, when
 one speaks of a lingerie gown, whether its composition is null, linen, percale; whether it is green, blue, black, or
 white, as it used to be.
 Only one thing-we knonw always that it Is attractive; at least it suggests
 Q creation of peculiar attraction. At all of the June weddings com mencements, and other fetes lingerie
 frocks have been conspieuously in evil dence.
 One in creamy linen batiste, trimmed oh so profusely, with the white valen-
 ciennes lace, was charming. It was worn by apretty girl of the tall, willowy type, who knew just how to carry off
 all It's frills and frou-frous and preserve it from any suggestion of fussiness.
 The skirt swept the floor al around
 and was gathered not too closely at the
 top. It was cut in eleven gores each, with a goodly flare, and around the
 bottom were three groups of three nar- row ruffles each edged with double frill of half-inch lace, which curved up to each seam in littue scroll effect, in the centre of which was set a lace medallion. The bodice was gathered at the waist and set onto yoke that curved to points over the shoulders and deep in front and back, and the sleeves were merely three lace-trimmed ruffles of the batiste. Lace bands of
 scarfs, which were about four inches
 In the narrowest part widening toward
 the ends, reached from point just
 above the ruffles in the front up over the shoulders to an opposite point in the back, and over the hips. Joining the two sides of the scarf were bars of pink velvet ribbon, with long loops and
 ends hanging from them. There was a high pink velvet girdle which contrast ed rather strangely, but still effective | ly with the filmy texture Of the gown material
 A cream-colored Milan picture hat, trimmed with black ostrich feathers and pink roses topped the costume, and long black silk gloves completed It's | effectiveness.
 Another lingerie creation, worn at
 this same wedding, belonged to ma- 1 tron, and was black chiffon null with
 trimmings Of silk finely polka-dotted with white.
 There was an underskirt hanging very full from the waist, and finished around the bottom with half-dozen narrow untrimmed ruff1es of the null.
 The overskirt-really there was cut
 circular, fitting smoothly around the
 hips, and also cut in at either side in
 overskirt being edged with bias fold
 of polka dot silk, which, being held loosely, took on a slightly fulled ap- pearance.
 The bodice was simply gathered in
 at the waist and out V-shape at the neck, the V bordered with a fold of the dotted silk which graduated in width from half-inch at the point in front and back to two inches at shoulders.
 The sleeves werea high puffs, with a
 deep, graduated ruffie falling from un- derneath a silk band
 For girls of sixteen or seventeen theer
 are many pretty designs of more appro-
 priate simplicity A handkerchief linen
 has the skirt made in seven gores each overlapping the other and finished with trimming braid The fitness at the bottom is effected by many plaits
 set in at knee depth, and a large pearl button conceals the joining of these plaits with the gore seams. The waist is surplice, and drawn down in such a manner that girdle effect is produced and no separate one needed This is done by cutting one side of the surplice long enough to reach around the waist to the centre of the back, where the jointure is defined by means of three
 pearl buttons like those on the skirt
 Three more buttons, one below the other, trim either shoulder. The chen1i- sette and stock and also the sleeves are braided in a conventional pattern with
 narrow cotton braid.
 Many of the thin gowns are made with separate yokes or guimpes, the necks finished so that they may do ser
 vice for evening frocks both now and later on, for except in mid-winter there
 is nothing prettier and certainly noth
 ing more comfortable than smart muslin.
 Some of the finer linen suits have
 panels of embroidery inserted between
 rows of insertion, and especially in the
 princess model these are very effective One such was creating no end of politelytioned comment among the me- 1 bers of a country-house party and il
 deserved all the compliments it re- | ceived. The material of which the frock was fashioned was the incest oi
 handkerchief linen. It was made with
 seven gores, one of the linen with two inturned plaits in the centre, alter hating with one of some exquisite en-
 broidered goods which had evidently
 been expressly designed for it as the
 lilac leaves and clusters which formed the pattern were so perfectly adapted 1 The front panel was made of the em-