The Minneapolis journal., 1906-08-05

quite stout She has rather ford complexion black
hair, and gray eyes with hazel in them. She is very
undshouldered. How can her clothes be made
that this will not show much7 Also what kind Of
suit should she get for summerf -E. B. F.
Minneapolis
You can successfully pale, turquoise and navy
blue, purple, white, black, crimson cerise, mauve,
dark brown blue gray, green and pink in their very
palest and darkest shades and cream.
pretty, light summer silk would be quite ap-
propriate for your wear 1t should be preferably Of
the radium or rajah order rather than the tafetas
or peau de soies, which would fancy, be rather old
for girl OF l8 In regard to color, you may choose
either pink, Alice blue tan the two latter shades
being perhaps the useful Pink will be the better
choice for evening, Alice blue for day and evening
both, and tan for day only. So there you
Golden brown velvet would effectively trim gown
of either shade. The princess corselet skirt will be-
but seeing that you TALL it will be necessary
I think, to cut up the skirt, it were, fully
than be done with the three Of velvet. What
! should like would be group of tucks above and
below the knee and again above the hem, each group
divided into two by band of white lace. good
quality of cotton cluny will answer admirably the
pongees or rajahs, and lace somewhat finer if the
radium has been chosen. Outline with row Of
velvet, the widest the lace above the hem, tho
others proportionately Cut away the silk
underneath, and the result will be very pretty fluffy
skirt Then the blouse could be of the lace and alter
nate strips Of the silk arranged horizontally and the
skirt supported by shoulder straps Of golden brown
on the pink silk to the brown tones by all use it.
The sleeves will be puffs made exactly like the
blouse, and will end in cuffs made from the insertion
tied in with the velvet This would be lovely frock,
no matter what shade were chosen, and hat which
would give the best results at the price, would be
wire frame covered with rufles Of Val Lace and
trimmed with pink and knots of brown velvet.
Both hat and gown could be made at home, when the
total cost should certainly not $685. would
include the cost of the daily dressmaker.
Your mother can wear cream, ivory white, yellow,
a ad Sofh alma hror,
tan, gray, fawn, coral pink and old rose An ideal
summer gown for stout woman Of so will be fine
black French voe silk batiste, the skirt made in
seven cores, showing group Of tucks down each
seam less than onequarter inch wide, met by gradu
ated founce, pintucked for few inches vertically
on its upper edge and connected to the skirt by black
chantlly lace banding, having very irregular edges
The bottom Of the hounce will be trimmed with a
three-inch self ruffle, and coming from this will be
long lace motifs running up the lounce half way, at
intervals arranged to come between the groups Of
pintucks.
The bodice will show a round yoke of ivory baby
Irish lace, the lower portion being of the material
the back and at sides slightly blousing in front
to narrow black satin ribbon belt ending in loops
and ends falling over the back of the skirt. The yoke
will be outlined with chanty lace motifs half over
laying the yoke the other the waist part, the lace
running down the center front to the belt. The
sleeves will be pus the top part pintucked vertically
divided by band of the lace, then gathered into
narrow band of lace at three-q length.
Now as to the round-shouldered effect. Often.
times "a stout round-shouldered figure will be quite
short or narrowshouldered but be very full under
meath the arms and around the bust, giving an i'm
preston of peg top, supposing very plain, tight
fitting untrimmed waist is worn, the shoulders and
bust forming almost perfect round. Now, if this
round line is broken the effect is of course entirely
changed. To do this have light fluffy lace capes or
lappets arranged lightly the top of each sleeve
ending irregularly about midway between armhole
and elbow, and made quite full and caught down
rather fiat to the sleeve but fluffy looking when
viewed from the back and slightly fluffy from the
front. want the lace to fill in the hollow in the back
from the shoulder blades to the armhole. Don't be
afraid of making the wearer appear too broad
shouldered because she is naturally broad shoudered
the lace can be taken inward inch two at the
shoulder seams instead of coming directly the
hole seams, and don't expect to get perfect results
at once the lace will probably require arranging again
and again. Perseverance will however insure happy
results in the end.