Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-26
Fashions Fads and Fol1ies.
.orn tho Haheriaaher

Society is now entering upon the cycle
of summer fundamentally affairs in the
main. occasional lawn parties and outdoor
dramatics. For, unlike the multitude
whose sojourn at the mountain or shore
resort is OF limited duration and generally
prescribed in respect to month or week, the
element of wealth and leisure defer their
country festivities until what is commonly
described as the vacation period Is drawing
to a close. Late June and July is a time
particularly favored for the tour OF the con-
tinent and social life at the smart watering
places has Jagged perceptibly in conse-.
quence. Yet the younger set are engaged
with wented energy in the healthful sports
on field and water, and what has thus far
transpired in the way of occasions" may,
we'll be accepted as indicating the trend of
things in relation to dress Many, doubt
less, have been led by the chronicles Of
events at Newport and Tuxedo to the con.
clusion that men of social position are rid
Ing rough shod over the fundamental prfn--
ciples OF the mode. We are informed by
the knights Of the keyhole and transom OF
ing dress garment in summer and a gen.
eral inclination toward the use Of the even
ing jacket and it's accessories for ceremoni-.
GUS affairs. The statement, iterated and
reiterated, would, If emanating from re-
liable source, mean disregard of the pro-
prieties quite Earring to our national claims
in matters sartorial. But the scribes have
erred, and of their observations at long
range, c'est rirc, to employ phrase bad
ly frayed from hard usage. Rather than
that you will find the distinction between
formal and informal wear as clearly drawn
in midsummer by men blessed with q
sense of fitness as In the height of the ur-
ban season. This fact I record with de-
gree of satisfaction, for 1t serves to empha-
size anew the due respect, not alone for
fashion, but for those social graces which
men of good breeding and refinement prac-
tice under any and all circumstances.
Concerning clothes for autumn, to which
I made allusion two months ago. the tend
ency has been SO well defined that one
could hardly go amiss, SO there is no par
ticular prophetic merit in having hit the
mark to a nicely. The ultra model of lounge
ipate no radical departures from its pattern
in the suit for winter. 1t will be observed
how closely the lines follow the current
English mode. The jacket Is trile short
with very little shaping at the waist. fits
snugly about the hips and Is fashioned
without vent. The lapel has the long roll
and is closely notched and the edge Is cut
rather sharply away from the lower button
with carved instead of the prevailing angu-
lar effect. Shoulders are squared and sleeves
narrower than heretofore. Pocket flaps
follow the curves Of the Jacket edge. Wide
stitching on collar lapel and edges is a dis
tir. ctive characteristic. The breast pocket
may be incorporated or not, according to
Individual preference.
Owing to the vogue Of the high-cut waist
Trousers are not SO wide, and will be cut
to extend scarcely below the ankle. We
may expect extremes in this regard, and
likewise lot of published statements Of
the return to ''high-waters," which will be
awry only If the tide rises too far. Then,
also, fad will be the turnups at the bot
tom. which. however. will not prevail be-
yond the calendar limits Of autumn, II, in
deed. biting weather does not compel It's
abandonment ere that date.
Within the past fortnight quite howdy-
do has been stirred up by dispatches telling
OF the adoption by London's west end tall
ors Of blue cloth and velvet collars for the
evening dress suit. This is rather belated
Juror, and I may add. quite uncalled for,
inasmuch as month ago considered this
subject from the standpoint Of the New
York tailors' purpose to test the same idea.
However, since the matter seems to interest
to the point OF excitement. more extended
views may be justified. The fad. for such
1t is. may be taken as further indicat ton
OF the desire to depart from the staid SIM
plicfty of modern ceremonious dress. Some
there are who believe we are on the thresh-
grafton in evening clothes. even to the use
OF gilt braid and buttons and possibly
'knickers, an era of elegance such as dis
tinguished the days Of our forefathers. OF
this feel convinced, that an evolution is
at hand, yet a revolution Is not to be ex-
pected. Moreover, dress changes come very
gradually and only the refined and tasteful
is essayed by men OF discernment and Gull
tfvated aesthetic sense. Then, too. the
reign of the black and white scheme with
out frflls or furbelows has been undss-
turbed through 30 many years that even
the suggestion of q change would be accept
ed by the multitude as welcome and long
awaited opportunity to array itself in dag
cling tinsel when on parade. For these
reasons conclude that only moderate in
novations are in prospect for the near
future. Indeed, the growing use Of figured
silk waistcoats and of pique and small self
figured patterns in shirts for formal wear
cannot be overlooked or minimized In the
light Of getting away from the extreme
simplicity which has characterized the GER
enormous forms during recent years.