The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-06-21
THE FASHIONS. PRESENT STYLES OFFER UNU-
 SUAL SCOPE
For originaIity-wapsr and FrOcks for Cool Days--New Modes of Trimming Hats, Gloves and Footwear.

IdSulO1lS, IL luuSI Uc aNAA4A"eNN ~ they do not lack originality In spite of the fact that almost every historical period is represented. each mode is given such quips and turns in adapting it to our own special re- quirements that it's primitive effect is virtually lost in a new design.
 It is whispered, ever so softly, that we are gradually to be led away from the Vaccinations of the Louis XIV. and Louis XVI and the Empire periods to find what attractions we may in the style of 1880.
 But as this prediction Is an annual occurrence like certain other epidemics which do not materialize there is hope that we may be able to stave off hoop skirts, boned bodices, and dropping shoulders for yet another season.
 Nevertheless. it is not wise to make up new and expensive dress too strict ly after the present fashion with the idea that it is going to be equally good in the fall, for there are bound to be one or two radical changes which will place the stamp of distinction between the old and the new.
 For one thing, dark colors will be the vogue, and for another long coats, long skirts, and long sleves Further than this it is too early to prophecy with accuracy.
 June, with all the fetes, outdor and Indoor, 1t brings in It's train, is always appropriated by Dame Fashion for her spring opening, and aided by the weather man she is doing herself proud this year.
 The alternately warm and cool days have brought out corresponding variety of light and heavy summer things which has added not little to the interest of the show.
 Usually May and June, when the summer wardrobe is being prepaired, are so very warm that one is apt to forget that there are sure to be cool days even in midsummer. and to pro ceed with only the idea of cooliness in view.
 This year, however, we have been blessed with varieties of weather that have shown us all manner of delight for little wraps-demiwr the French call them-long coats of light weight materials hitherto used only for frocks, scarf, and dresses made of heavy summer stuffs.
 We are growing accustomed to the | Al ion ynA on VI orr although we cling with the same per tinacity to the coat and skirt suit that we do to the shirt waist. A darker shade than the skirt and heavier material is most desirable for the short jackets, and next to these black or white. With black and white checked was recently seen a silver gary silk Eton, trimmed heavily with silk braid with riangular-shaped empice- ments of the checked silk set in tC carry out the motif. With this was worn a deep girdle of the skirt mater. ial The girdle by the way, plays ar important part with these odd coats 1t must reach well up under to coneea the blouse, to prevent a genral patchy appearance which the back of such z costume would otherwise take on, ant it must curve well in at the waist line Nothing is much uglier than an un shaped girdle. To obtain this effect thu celluloid strips are best as they ar, most pliable.
 Another jaunty coat, this time worl over black and white Swiss by one O the duennas at a commencement fete was of white taffeta overlaid with sill Renaissance braid and lined with whit satln The foundation was cut up a the back so that only the braid patterI preserved the curve of the lower edge and the whole coat was outlined with bias of black taffeta.
 Next to taffeta, linen makes up int the smartest coats, even for dressy oc casions and for wear with silk or fin muslin frocks. They are newer thai the lace coats. Because they are onl, linen it is not to be supposed they ar necessarily simple or inexpensive, Or the contrary none of the cost material allows of more elaboration than linen even as none is more adaptable t | IdllOI~Ildu6 GllSCI5s III lctSl u llictS d well be said that linen in It's variou weaves might easily form the sum an substance of an entire summer outfit
 English eyelit, which was so much i vogue last season for linen suits, is SC dom seen now except on house gowns and not at all on separate coat' French raised embroiders and appliqu ! 1ocorotfoy, iOcfnud
 Long coats of heavy linen, either 1
 white, natural tint, or colors are yer generally taking the place for the sun , mer of the silk automobile wraps. A unusually attractive garment of tn
 sort was cut with a little point at tn neck, back and front, from which it fe l with but little fulness to the hem Th seams were inturned and each strappe not through the centre, but on eitht
 side, with very narrow bias ban
 stitched twice. Two bands of the sam sort finished the three-inch cuff an also outlined the pointed neck. A French idea introduced this seaso is the wearing of a bright scarlet ( white pique vest inside ores coat, I 5 matter what the form, color, or textul , of the coat may be. Sometimes tn effect is obtained by shaped pieC sewed inside the coat and it may
 either plain or as elaborately embroi( cred as one chooses.
 Another distinctly French suggestio , is shown in the wearing of gay colore cloth coats, severely cut little affai : reaching just below the waist line, wit s checked or plaided skirts and also vii