The Washington times., 1906-11-04

Brown henrietta is the material Of
which the gown IN flgure 9 is built. It's
stock collar and tucker are OF chiffon
in pink tueks. with a rufne Of lace on
each side. band Of pin tuoks down the
front.
Heavy lace borders this tucker on
each side. A fitted bodice IS draped
over by 4 deep bertha or front and
shield-shaped back. which forms dis
tinctive feature Of the dress. In front
the bertha drapery is cut out at the top
In d deep curve. but in the back IL
comes quite high and forms a Y at the
neck. Next TO the chemisette OF tucker
| II is bordered by two velvet bands
braided with soutache and separating
IN front to show cream white molre be-
tween them.
The drapery passes over the shoulders
In two folds and has almost the full
ness of a ruffe In front, where IL hangs
square and apparently loose. although
1t Is tackled 10 the bodice uHderpeath-
-Four large fancy buttons trim tnc vel
! vet folds in front
AS the folds Of the draped piece pass
over the shoulder In the back they have
a lifted center. with two folds down
each side. like pleats. hanging SO as 70
give an almost square effect 10 the
back. pretty feature Of the back Is
the turning up OF each side the back
OF the glrdIe OF the corners Of these
pleats, each corner being held down by
row OF small buttons
A broad. draped glrdle OF henrietta
has two rows Of velvet around the bot
tom These are braided with soutache
and open In front TO show the cream
colored moire between them
Two narrow, crescent-shaped ruffles
stand upward across the outside OF the
sleeve pun. and inside the elbow are
Two inserted pieces of white moire.
Back or the elbow a cum arrangement
is finished With scallops. a button fast
ening down each scallOp. Heavy lace
forms a border 10 this cuff. below
which Is a deep cum OF chiffon and net
Inserting, put on fun and finished at
the bottom with a ruffle of transparent
lace over cne OF a heavy variety.
4 plain skirt is trained and has mar
row panel down the front outlined by
three narrow pleats on each side. These
are stitched at the top 10 make the
skirt set wei over the hips. and from
there they fall loose, mingling with the
folds or g fun skirt.
Bias folds are 50 popular and so much
used IN various styles OF trimmings that
one is always safe In employing them
whstheT TO frame panels, put on IN
fancy designs OF TO use IN the simple
parallel lines of trimming with which
we are ali so familiar. The bias fold
saves many a trimming problem for the
woman OF small means. since she is
thus enabled 10 save quite good deal
upon the trimmings Of her gowns.
Diaphanous gowns, too, solve the trim
ming problem by admitting hOunees,
which may be further embellished with
ruchings and little frlIls as well as with
knife plearings. a form OF trimming OF
which ore sees n good deal
Flounces are not In good form on
gowns Of heavier materials except when
used ungathered TO carry out some plan
Of cTaPery or when put on in the novel
style Of sections in the front and back
on separate lines from each other. This
IS one OF the freaks IN dress which the
season has brought out and which looks
well on certain persons. but II tx not
style which I would unTeservedly com
mend.