The San Francisco call., 1906-07-01

falls to the lot of any one woman is
still demanded for the fashionable hat.
and curls and braid and puns are all
TO be seen, and often all of them on
one head. This position of the quantity
of tulle under the brim of the hat Is
of wonderful avail in making a hat
becoming, and there is no rule as 20
what color you may put in there. II is
still fashionable to use the light brown
malines; black tulle is seen. but with
the Panama or LeghOrn hats tulle the
same color or a shade deeper is the
most becoming and effective
Almost without. exception the brinis
of the large hats are wired and then
bent into apparently natural. graceful
curves. Ii will be quite impossible for
any brim of the width seen on most
of these hats to fall into graceful
curves, and yet al the same time there
must not be any suspicion OF stiffness.
y very fashicnab BILE effect is one given
by two or three different kinds OF
straw used in the same hat The CEN
ter part of the brim. for instance, will
be transparent. while the brim and the
crown will be solid. This Is rather fol-
lowing the lines OF the satin crown hat
and in truth there are lot of summer
hats that still have the satin crowns
while the brims are of two kinds OF
straw. A twist of ribbon around the
crown. or folds OF ribbon with a large
bow toward the front and then the
ostrich plumes is the usual trimming
But there are charming leghorns in
/ tended TO wear with the batiste and
muslin gowns that are trimmed with a
wreath OF flowers around the crown.
with the colors Of the straw carri4d
throughout them or with simply thu
old style that is always popuiar--the
long ostrich plume around the crown.
or even the old-fashioned wreath OF
roses. There can be any colors chosen.
and black trimmings on white or yell
low hats are thought very smart
These black and yellow hats are worn
with gowns of any color. and In this
il shows that the time has come when
hats to match gowns are no longer
considered the only possible style.
I Colored hats are worn with white
black. or in fact, gowns OF any color
with which they look well. and 70 have
the hat and parasol match is rather a
/ fad. This is not saying that the hat
TO match the gown has gone out OF
style-sintply that IL is no longer a
necessity. The all black hat Is much
more fashionable than last year and is
considered smart 70 wear with any col
ored gown. 1t can be trimmed with
tulle and only a spray OF flowers. u
can be trimmed with velvet ribbon and
/ 1t can also be, and generally Is trim
med with ostrich plumes or. with
ostrich tips; in fact. the fashions OF
four or five years ago as regards black
hats are again repeated. The truth is
the style that calls for al-bIack hat
/ is so universally becoming that II is
economical. and while that is not sup
posed to be interesting the majority OF
women find il so and consequently are
only too thankful that Dame Fashion
has vOuchsafed them this favor.
There is a hint of the coal scuttls
bonnet in some OF the shapes so wide
are the brims. and when the brims are
turned up at the back they almost have
TO make a scoop effect over the face
A hat of this description made OF two
weaves OF straw. the thin and the
heavy, is trimmed entirely with bows
Of black malines. put close together
and covering the entire top Of the hat
Fastened on the brim quite far forward
is a spray of four different colored
roses. with just a few green leaves. At
the back. where the brim turns up
there are bows of tulle filing in entire
ly the space between the hat and the
head Quaint and picturesque Is this
model. and il also possesses the virtue
of being becoming. strange as il may
seem. and being at the same time de-
cidedly smart. OF course. il requires
to be worn by tall woman and one
who carries herself well.