Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-29

If they were taken up in the gown mate
rial The fronts of little jackets, collars
and cuffs show splendid embroideries, and
when the jacket itself is removed there Is
a ngerie blouse, every stitch of which has
been made by patient fingers.
Sweetgum Brown.
A pale shade of brown Of the old sweet
gum tinge was the color of one travelling
dress seen. Empire blue velvet was the
jacket decking. this showing in shawl re-
vers and deep upturned cuffs for the Wrin-
killed. three-quarter sleeves. Deep cream net.
quilted finely. formed a charming edge for
this trimming: and the hat was jaunty
side-tilted shape with blue velvet bow and
a tinted paradise feather. This costume is
shown in the smaller of the weeks draw
ings.
A princess promenade costume in Vesuvi-
us-smoke gray cloth is depicted beside it,
Chiffon in the same shade trims the skirt
of this, put on front robe piece. Bodice
and skirt are made in one. jacket enect
of gray and white guipure, chiffon and
cloth delicately covering 1t.
The hat with this toilet Is one OF the sea-
sons newest shapes 1t is Of gray felt with
trimming Of green ivy leaves made OF
velvet and satin and bows Of gray metal
tissue. At the right side big rosette OF
white tulle, from which energies a long.
white paradise plume. gives the bride touch,
for since weddings began gray and white
have been bride combinations.
Another lovely dress in a late trousseau
was of empire blue cloth. with q decora-
ribbon. Here and there an all-velvet frock
is seen, splendid with magnificent lace;
and with the most foolish OF little jackets
to give jauntiness to this rather too regal
no
the little jacket has established itself on
too firm basis to be in danger Of. with
drawal. Becoming to almost every inquire
in its prettiest phase. 1t is the most Co
scarcely a street gown can be complete
without one. Whether simulated or real.
it is there, and though the shoulder cape
effects are running 1t hard for place they
cannot down 1t. With gowns for practical
purposes the coat Is often of pony shape
but fussy short sleeves, the daintiest vests
and an irreproachable At now redeem these
somewhat hard styles.
Long and Loose Coats.
Brides travelling coats are long and loose,
braids satin bands and contrasting velvet
this generally only for collars and cuffs
trimming the satiny cloths used. Yet one
dazzling wrap had chiefly raw-edged bands
Of It's own cloth for ornaments, tiny
fragment of black taffetas showing on re-
vers and cuffs. With the deep cream Of
the coat this sharp contrast was very
stylish.
The fruit Of the vine, the grape, is again
to the fore, and one sees 1t symboliZed
in every possible way. Grape embroideries
show on gowns-sometimes in the natural
puppies and yellow withstand huge clus-
tiers of the fruit, looking melting enough
to eat ornament big chapeaux in profusion.
Many trousseau hats display them. the
shapes themselves big woolly felts or else
silk covered, and the wide brim OF the hat
dropping about the face as if heavy with
it's burden. Nothing could be more charm
ing for the autumn bride than this imita-
ton fruit, which seems to express the very
essence of buoyant prosperity.
Beauty and exquisite fineness are under
stood qualities for bride lingerie, but good
taste expresses itself more In a display OF
quantity than In the business once thought
to be the brides supreme right. White
linens, batistes and lawns. with fine laces
or embroideries delicately used, are the sign
manual of the exacting times, petticoats
showing billowy fullnesses at the bot
tom and chemlses the simplest bertha fall.
or else a dainty frill edge drawn In with
ribbon. Apropos of petticoats which are
all important with empire styles, and all
French journal gives some interesting in
formation.
Lingerie Hints.
I'm order to produce the graceful slimness
required by fashion, new petticoats are
being made to button on to the corsets. At
the top, where all fullness is cut away for
elegant wear, they are in the thinnest ma
terials. silk, stockinette lawn or wash silk.
The bottoms which are flounced elaborate
ly stand out in the frou-frou ways desired,
and made of crisp taffetas or a softer killed
silk these bouffant founces may be soften
ed by lingerie founces buttoned on for
washing purposes" And now comes the
whole gist of the subject. When such a
petticoat is put on it Is carefully nodded to
smoothed out a stocking is smoothed.
Patent buttons, fiat discs of paper,
fasten the skirt to the corset" word on
these last follows, and surely detail is
more important to the bride trousseau than
the corset.
The straight corset Is still worn, but the
modern type presents none of the ugly and
version, which found to be detrimental
to both health and beauty. The present
styles conform to the needs of the figure,
choice corsets being in rather short than
long hipped models, with lace or ribbon
uppers for the bust support. The material
which gives by far the most comfort Is thin
French batiste with silk laces and lace and
ribbon trimmings"
Yet further on bride corset is described
as being of white satin, with all-over
embroidery of rosebuds. But then brides
are privileged beings, and 1t Is assumed
that the bodice will be loose enough to pre-
vent the raised rosebuds showing through.
For brides of very slim figures American
shops show tiny girdles of white satin rib
These are delightful little coquetries.
MARY DEAN