The mirror. (Stillwater, Minn.) 1894-1925, 1906-02-08
THE RESTAURANTS OF NEW YORK.
In Two Parts.
Part |. American (?) Restaurants.
In Two Parts.


~
(?) Restaurants.
after meals. Champagne is easily OBJ
tainable right in New York, where all
the best producers are represented by
agents. 1t is different with say
Chateau Laitte, Margeaux, La Rose,
St. Julien Cabarus, Steinberger Cabinet,
Hochheimer Domdechant, etc. To
obtain the genuine article of these
brands requires great expertness, and
much trouble. The custom of using
wines at the meals is now almost uni
versal among the wealthy of Gotham;
not only in all first-class hotels, clubs
and restaurants, but also in the homes
of "society"-of the four hundred and
their imitators. It is almost a necessity;
for many of the rich visnds, sauces
and meat pastries, which have made
some chefs famous, cannot be digested
easily, unless washed down with rich
wines.
The main kitchen, of the Waldorf
Astoria, on busy days and hours, pre-
sents spectacle we'll worth describing.
In the middle of the large room, before
a small desk covered with pads, stands
the great chef, pencil in hand, marking
down the orders and, in special cases,
his extra instructions for their prep
aration. From there he seldom moves;
never goes near the ranges; seldom
talks to his subordinates-there are
five chefs and one pastry cook, each
with host of assistants, under him,
who have been instructed beforehand
and appears to give orders by ges-
ticulation only. The under-chefs each
have their own department. One
superintends the cooking of the meats;
another tends to the fish; third to the
salads; the fourth to the soups and
sauces gravy and the fifth to the
gernishing and decorating Of the
dishes. The best kind of poultry and
roasted in an oven; but Is turned on a
silver-plated rod before an open char.
coal fire. Under the birds is large
pan, into which drops first the blood
then the grease and juice. OF this the
sauces are prepared. When the bird il
properly done-in about forty-five
minutes-it is placed in plated dish
covered with a clean napkin, anC
Immediately deposited in one of thu
warming closets, of which there ar,
six rooms full in this hotel, and KEEP
there till ready for serving. An equa
care is taken of all other dishes.
Nothing but French is spoken in th'
kitchen. Even the walters shout theil
orders in that language; otherwise n,
attention would be paid to them
How important the position of chef is
may be determined by the salary the.
receive. There are said to be abou
twenty-five chefs in New York, partl,
in hotels, restaurants and clubs, an,
J partly in private families, who receiv
; an annual salary of $4,000, an,
, over. At the present time there ar
only two managing editors in tn
, United States who receive a salary o
J $15, 900, which goes far to prove tina
| journalism is cheaper" than gas
| tronomy.
, The chefs seldom take their meal
J where they are employed, and bu
: rarely taste the viands-that is done b
} the under-chefs. Some years ag'
, when the writer wished to obtain som
8 information of one of these might
0 personages, he found the great man 6
Q his home, relishing himself on a slic
: of boiled beef with horseradish sauC
q and beer.
q The average New Yorker is spen,
thrift. While, of course, the high-prit
s restaurants are largely patronized
b the wealthy, even people of moderat
s income, second-class artists, merchant
8 students, journalists, and even clerk
j. go there occasionally; alone as well {
d with ladies. For the latter these plac
b are an Eldorado; better than the hor
b show or grand opera-in the matter
I; showing off their clothes, jewelr
70 conversational powers and table ma
!" ners. A single person can obtain