The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-22
LONG CURLS AND HIGH COMBS.
COIFFURES OF THE '60S ARE
HERE AGAIN.
Grandmothers as Well rs Frivolous Young
Women Have Their Hair Done I'm the
Latest FashiOns-The Newest Hair
Models Not so Dimcult as They Seem.

Ohti AaN AbNAh AhS"
Latest Fashions-The Newest Hair
Women with a moderate supply OF hair
and a still more moderate supply OF pocket
money will very likely feel discourage
ment when they examine the latest hair
dressing models which show a PROPULSION
Of hair covering the front, back and sides
Of the head. From forehead to nape OF
neck and from ear TO ear are twists, braids,
puffs, curls, ~pompadours.
Nevertheless, to the initiated the newest
coifures are easier to manage than some
more compactly arranged structures like
the braided coil or Dutch braid design, for
example. Broad and high and long al
they are, the most fashionable hair models
are light. They do not require piles Of
hair at all.
The owner OF a moderate quantity Of
hair can manage admirably provided she
has skilful fingers e~nough-there's the
rub-to separate, curl and twist her hair
into up to date designs. Lacking this
talent, it is really cheaper to buy a few
extra puffs, curls, and rats than to run to
the hair dresser every day, for the newer hair
models don't last over night. They can't
be slept In as were their more compact
predecessors, and look none the worse
for it.
ITO have her head look well taken care
Of, a woman must have every puff, cur
and twist gone over every day, said a hair
dresser Of great experience and some note.
"A distinctive feature Of this seasons hair
dressing Is lightness, a~iriness, to secure
which two things are absolutely necessary
cleanliness and daily combing and brush
ing. To look their best puffs and curls
whether, growing on the head or pinned on,
must be rerolled and recurled every few
hours.
THE reign of the curl which has just
set in is destined, we hair dressers think.
to last a long time. The demand for long
and short, thick and thin curls, curls single
and in punches OF three o r four is enor-
nous.
The long curl, hanging from the side
below the ear and brought forward to droop
overthes shoulder in front, which has scarcely
been seen since the early SOS, has como in
again. Formerly these curls were nearly
always natural; now they are nearly always
false; not because good heads of hair are
not as plentiful now as ever, but because
society women are now far more particular
about how their hair is dressed than their
grandmothers were.
Formerly when long curls were In vogue
they we're allowed to hang almost any
way, and when a woman got to be 40,
or even less, she banished them altogether
and took to a cap. In those days a hair
dresser was called in only on state occa-
sions, once or twice a year.
Nowadays nearly every New York
woman of means has the hairdresser habit,
every night. and the older she grove the
more elaborate her couture gets to be.
Long curls to droop over the shoulder
will be worn not alone by young girls this
summer. I have customers who are grand
mothers, but who don't look it. whose hair
l am matching to curls long and short,
and we sell curls made of gray hair
The very latest styles in hairdressing
are low. The high couture is the exception
not the rule. The low couture may
be divided into two classes, the low and
the very low, and with either is worn the
long curl.
Short ourls, punches Of them. are oftener
worn with the low than with the very low
o~oiffure, and a soft. fluffy pompadour,
built over a very small cushion. is included
in both.
~Pompadours are NJ longer monumental.
They incline rather to f~iatness, and the
style known technically as the Gilbert
wave. which is parted in he middle and built
the ears, is favored much in conjunction
with the very low couture which covers
almost entirely the back Of the neck and is
marcelled or accordion pleated, as one
woman described it TO the limit.
In the other style Of ~pompadour the cush-
ion is less thick at the sides and 1t crosses the
front.
For the benefit OF women who can't afford
the services Of a hairdresser, a few plain
direct ions to aid in home building these
coiffures were obtained from an employee
Of a leading hair dressing concern. Here
they are.
To make a pompsdour parted or upright
part the hair across the head about three
|. inches back of the forehead and continuing
down the sides to a point just back OF the
way.
Divide the remaining back hair again
horizontally on, a line with the top OF the
ear and roll tn. upper half up in a tight wad
away from the lower half, which is left hang
ing, To make the most, OF the latter it
ordinary crimping iron II a waver is too
hard to manage.
Then if the couture is to be very low
fasfen a round hair cushion about four
inches In diameter at the back Of the head
lust below the lower rart ing or so as to let
the lower edge reach the nape of the neck
and turn the crimped hair up over it and
fasten firmly at the top Of the cushion.
According to the e myth Of the hair there
will be a longer or a shorter end of hair left
hanging and this must be carefully drawn
to one side for future use, not tucked away:
The rolled up wad OF hair must 10Y be
let down until the pompadour is built, after
which it is divided and rolled up into two
or three or more pufs arranged to fill the
gap between pompadour and bun, as the
lower cushioned arrangement is called.
and the ends Of which are at this stage Of
the hair dressing formed into ar additional
puff.
The ends of the front hair after the pom.
padour is built are often turned into q
couple OF small curls which project coquet'
tishly from one side Of the puffs..
All this. the hairdresser said. could bt
dore with an ordinar ily thick head OF hair
adding that if thin all the back hair must b
used to cover tee cushion and that the
space between it and the pompadour should
be filled with a pinned or twist or puffs.
For a moderately low couture, reaching