The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-07-22

70 matter how cleverly disguised
machine work may be il can
never take the place OF hand
tucking or embroidery, and al
though today it is often dificult even
for an expert TO recognize hand en-
broidery at first sight. stu hand work
will always hold its own and be alone
fashionable. Instead of decreasing the
value OF a handsomely embroidered
gown, where there is a quantity of
cheap machine work on the market,
the worth OF the genuine hand work is
only enhanced. This season is remark
able for the exquisite embroidery seen
on all the more deliberately fashioned
costumes. while many OF the simplest
frocks depend upon some little touch
OF hand work for their innate style. IT
IS quite the fad OF the moment for all
evening gowns and the llandsemer aft
ernoon dresses to be made entirely by
hand, so that even II there is no actual
embroidery. still the lace and whatever
tueking or trimming there may be are
always added by hand.
In the craze for an elaborate style
OF dress there was at one time distinct
danger OF the simple morning frock
disappearing altogether. but simplicity
IS fortunately once again returning to
popular favor. and many charmingly
pretty morning dresses are to be seen
made up literally with very little trim
ming. Some Of these are on the we'll
known shirt waist dress order-a plain
blouse and short full skirt The waist
is finished with collar, vest and cuffs
OF hand embroidered handkerchief
linen and there may also be a small
embroidered design on the front of
the bodice but this is not necessary, as
the gown is intended only for the
morning and is OF such material as
bingham or colored linen. There are,
OF course, the embroidered linen gowns
and these are. II possible, more effec-
tive and handsomer than ever. but they
are not at all in the same class as the
gown Just described.
For tennis and golf there is no style
OF dress so comfortable as a separate
white waist and skirt. Unfortunately.
the majority OF shirt waists are now
made Of such sheer materials and are
so deliberately and even fussily trimmed
as TO be quite inappropriate for the
purpose. For any violent exercise a
rather heavy linen waist and skirt are
best. The embroidered linen bodices
wear well and are not now expensive.
and they are an excellent style of waist
apart from being so serviceable. The
rev separate skirts have most Of them
some little embroidery. either a band
running about the skirt above the hem
or else a long design laid down beside
the seams. Linen belts are now pre-
ferred 70 either ribbon or leather. and
the wide embroidered linen girdles with
long metal buckles are extremely smart.
ore-inch belts of embroidered linen are
also in vogue at the moment, and by
many are preferred to the wider belts.
which are hard to keep from crushing
Into too narrow bands.
Whether the jackets are short or long
there must be not one but many linen
suits In the outfit First in Importance
is the white suit, and after that there
should be as many colors selected as
are becoming. There are various shades
o. pink. red and raspberry that are fas-
cinaungly pretty, and then there are
the blues and exquisite lavenders, while
for occasional trips to town a gray or
tan crash makes a most serviceable
costume. AS the linen coat and skirt
costume has been in fashion for so long,
and always the same general style has
been followed. this year the only way
Of altering the suit is by having it
handsomely embroidered. If a long
Jacket is chosen-and the long coats,
particularly for driving and travelling,
have by no means passed from favor
Il may be embroidered all over in some
open and effective design or simply re-
neved by an embroidered collar end
wrist bands. either worked directly
upon the material or separate, white II
on a color or OF some bright. becom-
ing shade * the costume is all white
With this coat the skirt is frequently
plain, but more often there is wide
strip OF embroidery above the hem.
Most attractive are short embroidered
bolero and Elton coats, which are so
fashionable at present. Some of these
little Jackets instead OF being covered
with allover embroidery are simply fin
ished all around-sleeves and aIl-with
scslioping and few rows of heavy en-
broidered dots or OF French knots. This
jacket, whether in white or any shade, |
may be worn with plain full skirt.
Taffeta batiste is material closely |
akin TO linen and is sufficiently heavy
90 stand masses Of embroidery especial |
~ well An attractive three-p!ece cos
tune in taffeta batiste was made with |
a lace guimpe, the dress itself having
no sleeves, but the embroidered shout |
der straps were a continuation of a |
wide band OF embroidery reaching all
around the bodice. connected with the
skirt By a wicker design in tiny straps
OF the material At each crossing OF
the straps were small pearl buttons. |
About the waist and hips the skirt was