The San Francisco call., 1906-10-07

VERY effort is being made to In
troduce the empire styles, and
certainly there is no reason, judg-
ing from the successful attempts
that so far have been made, to doubt
that eventually they will become gen
orally popular. There is much TO
recommend them, for the lines are
so graceful they afford an oppor-
tunity for the use of the most beau
tStul materials, and there can also
~ great individuality OF costume; but
the model has many pitfalls for the
unwary and is not one to be generally
recommended, for in the hands Of an
incompetent dressmaker or worn by a
woman whose figure is hopelessly bad
there is no fashion more calculated TO
make a woman look like q caricature-
in other words. it can be glaringly
conspicuous. and conspicuous in a bad
style.
In the meantime. however. the lead
ing dressmakers are turning out day
after day the most charming and fas-
cinating models IN these same empire
styles. For afternoon reception gowns
or for the evening they are certainly
most attractive. very smart and ex-
tremeIy becoming. They are made al
most without exception Of most ex-
pensive materials, and the trimmings
are handsouer even than any that have
been seen for a long time, which is
saying a good deal, when il is consid-
cred how many superb embroideries
have been used within the last two or
three years since the craze for en-
broidery Of all kinds first began.
Empire Scarfs of Fur.
Rather dashing, a good old English
word which expresses a whole lot, are
the newest models. and with much that
Is original about them. not only in the
gowns themselves, but in all the ac-
cessories thereto. The scarf and man
ties, for instance, intended to be worn
with the gown are 50 unique in shape
and decoration that they would be fas-
chatting themselves even IL they were
not an addition TO a very smart cos
tune. The old empire lines are carried
out as much as possible, and even il a
woman be not naturally graceful some
how IL seems possible TO drape these
ecsrfs or msntles In a graceful way.
They do not always have a great deal
OF warmth about them, but they have
sufficient to serve as a wrap, and GER
tainly are a great addition, because
the lines Of the empire gown are rath-
er hard and stiff. and for the street
would look quite too eccentric and con-
spicuous as II were. even IL the wearer
were IN her own carriage. whereas
this light drapery or additional outer
garment gives a finish that is requisite.
The scarfs and mantles are not heavy
weight. The long scarfs are made OF
tadeta, can be double or single, and
trimmed with taffeta itself in ruchings
and ruffles across the ends, with a
large rosette just at the back. or the
ends are embroidered in gold and sill
YER. They are made also OF cloth or
OF any material that will drape we'll
They are not good in anything like
voile or a fabric thin enough TO re-
quire lining in order to give an ap-
pearance. Later on they VIII be seen
fur OF the most costly description,
q well as the most inexpensive furs,
fout without exception they are i'm
mensely smart and will be fashionable
for months to come
The skirts Of these gowns are all
very clinging, the fad OF the moment
being apparently to outline the figure
es much as possible. This is a very
dangerous style to recommend general