New-York tribune., 1906-09-02
THE UPPER TEES.
Where SIR Waiter Scott ReT,eycd
and VelasQue='s Tcnus Silent.
Barnard Castle. August lf.

~ Barnard Castle bull, in The twelfth cen,urv
10y the Balliols on lands given Ia them 10y Will
lam iAuins AFTER the Conquest; and at the op-
iesiie end OF the Ezabeihan stone bridge there
Is a brisk little factory for making shoe thread
ara t~ine, with a brewery adjoining if History
nd literature centre in the medieval fortress
among the precipitous rocks. one Of the castle
i"'ns founded BalOi College and another was
i@'Sea 10 The Scottish throne in the place Of
h"h'ri Bruce. and when an alliance with
France against Edward L ended disastrousiy
The BalliOls lost their splendid estate which
passed into the possession OF the Bishops OF
Durham. the King Maker of warsick Richala
III and Elizabeth. until il besieged 10y in
surgent lords. dismantled and finally purchased
hE Sir Henry Nane. ancestor OF Lord Bar
nard Of Castle Rahy. Sir Walter Scott. fasci-
mated 10y the glamour Of border history. knew
every stone in the seven Of ruined eaIls
Where The BalliOls ~ere once supreme, and
viTidy described IN -'Rokeby' The prospect OF
moor and fell opening i'm the early morning
from The great watch tower. Where he once
sa~ from proud Barnard's bannerd walls the
silver mists deNing 'ihe woods with glittering
spray" the more prosaic visitor NOW glanoes At
the tail factory chimney and The MOrkaday
i1eNcry, and feels that old things have indeed
passed away.
There is the same fantastic contrast between
ancient and modern in the market town which
lies around the castle walls. The Old road
remain-Galgate. Newgate. Bridgegate
ana Thornsate- a varied assortment of
Ir,ieniiOus terraces and neW-fangled streets.
ana in the town hail the charters granted 10y the
E4l.iols 10 the burgosses are still preserved ana
while the octagonal market cross is only an
,.-hteeuth century construction. the parish
.hurch behind il has preserved through nu-
i,..rous restorations Of transepts. arcades ana
t,g,cr its identity with tho original chapel oi
,,.. castle The new. however is jostling the old
st~R-r nj
Painters from Turner TO Sir Ernest Naier'""
i..-- advertised the scenic beauties II this syl-
,...!, region. and the town has become summer
r,sorl with the label Apartments IN every
other window as one strolls from 'he station 10
th, market place There are TWO concert rooms
r., entertainment. and ther. is military band
that tlays in the evening in A spacious PARK
7.r.. ie g, ,,seftll If not picturesque Mechanics
Ins,i,ufion. with library. lecture room and read
i,.l hall and iher, Is "a large Northeastern couh-
IL school with broad playing fields 10 lake
away whatever reproach came from IN" asso-
...,rion oe this quarter If England with bolhe-
-i.a,s Hail As though the od castle town had
NOT le.n sufficiently modernzed with summer
loagings concert rooms. libraries. boarding
s.. hools brass bands and military uniforms
tf,,re is big French Renaissance art gallery.
with limitations Of the Louvre ana The hahfe
H5,,sl de VILE and enormous collections OF enahi-
els ra,rc.slain glass. ivory. bronzes meta WorH-
sculpture and paintings il
This strangely placed museum Is a nlonu-
71-ut TO III. futllty OF human interpretations
Of the gospel OF wealth Mr.. Bo--es. 0f Streat-
lam Castle and his wife. the Countess OF Mon
,allsa were aIt connoisseuTs, who fSrrnee the
design Of founding a museum in caiins anu
docking il with a magnificent collection lhey
stored their TREASURES in Paris. but aeciceo
agaias, Calais as a site on account OF the Ger
man invasion Of France and the excesses OF the
Commune. Barnard Castle vas preferred by 4
reason Of the historic connection OF The Howes
family with the Tees Valley. but under the
M0rrnain act the countess could not carry out
the museum project without conveying the site
20 ,rrsfees and surviving the Deed by al least
twelve months. she younger than her
husband and eKpected 10 outlise him. and she
wished 10 have a permanent residence In the
museum where she could personally supervise
The arrangement OF the collections special
act OF Parliament passed for her benefit;
Hhe site for a large park was purchased. and
The begun; but while IL Was sun
unfinished the countess died. bequca;hing her
/ husband pTocee-aed with the work at his own
expcnse partly completed the museum and en-
lareed the collections. but before his death ne
had married again and lost the bulk Of his