The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-12-12
THE FASHIONS
SOME VERY CHARMING HOUSE
 GOWNS.
and Mntinees-Rich Ma-
 terials and Elaborate Trimmings the
Shore Line.

Shore Line.
 The term house-gown, once signify Ing the long, .shapeless wrapper, has been expanded to include any frock in- ] tended for home wear, and very smart and artistic are the confections turned out by the modistes this season.
 For afternoons, the lightweight cloths, peau de crepe, peau de Paris eolienne, and the very finest of the broadcloths are generally preferred to silks, although in this connection silk is never really out. Henrietta and cashmere have been revived, as also nuns yelling and albatross, out of which some of the most exuuisite cos ] tunes have been created, Drap d'ete is another old standby, which however often 1t is relegated supposedly to ob- livion, bobs up serenely every now and again. to take it's place among the popular materials,
 But, after all, 1t Is not the material that counts this season in any sort of a gown, but it's style and trimmings, for especially in the ease of the gown intended for wear at home, few really simple frocks are noted, although the general effect may be that of sim- plicity.
 The question of skirts seems to be agitatlng one just at present, because we are confronted with such contra dictions about the matter. The fash ion plates, almost without exception, show several inches of surplus cloth swirllng around the feet of their models and the modistes emphatically advocate the fashion, and yet one sees comparatively few examples in real evidence. There Is little doubt hut that the typical street skirt will re- main at the length in vogue for the past season, clearing the floor by a couple of inches. but, for any othr oc- casion it must be admitted that how- ever comfortable, the bobbed-off skirt Is never graceful. And SO, as the matter seems to be somewhat in abeyance, one may please one's self and still consider one's self in fashion,
 At a recent informal "afternoon" the hostess was gowned In smart little gown of old blue crepe, the skirt gathered at the waist, hanging in folds 10 the bottom. where 1t was bordered with a three-inch band of velvet. a trife darker than the gown color
 Except for this velvet fold the skirt was untrimmed, and this reminds us 1 that the very plain, even severe, skirt, I topped with bodice as elaborately | trimmed as possible is feature of the newest styles Tn this inseance the waist consisted of surplice folds of cloth fulled on to a yoke of blue crepe lisse, which Is tucked and embroi- ed. Bias folds of velvet were put on i in a fanciful conventional design, and furnished with tiny velvet-covered buttons, while the girdle was found by three folds similar to those bordering ! the yoke, coming from the under-arm seam, diagonally across to the front and the waist line, where the auds were turned upward and dotted each with a button. In the back other bands formed the same design invert- ed, thus giving the desired high waist ed effect.
 Another costume of a distinctly l different order shows silk voile. a beautiful soft rose color, with trim mings of dull green and gold passe- menterie. which although rich and arr tlstic to a degree, second not inappro- priate for afternoon wear, The skirt, a gathered empire, had double box plait in back. The waist was entire- ! ly of net, with duchesse applique, over which was worn a harness fashioned of wide bands cut in scroll designs One of these over either shoulders ended at the waist line and formed a something of an eton effect, while l two bands across the front joining the two scrolls gave 1t more the semblance of a blouse. One long scroll having 1 two curved ends trimmed the skirt finish to the sleeves, the whole making up costume as unique as 1t was at- 1 tractlve.
 Slowly but surely the teagown Is coming back to it's own, and, perhaps, even before the season is over we shall see them as of yore In the drawing room at four o'clock Properly, they belong to the boudoir, and the ultra fastidious women, no matter what fashion may license, will disport here tea-=own only to friends as are ad- mitted to the privacy of her own sit ting room. But the returning gowns are exquisite things, and one may be forgiven for an over-degree of pride in them.
 Of the prineesse and Empire styles, both of which are worn, the Empire is rather in the lead, and the sur pllce and shirred waists seem to have the preference. A gown of dove gray albatross, which was recently turned out by an exclusive workroom, gives good idea of what the new creations are like. It is made in two pieces, the skirt gathered to the Empire waist and finished with a Grecian border five inches deep around the bottom, while the bodice, which reaches only just below the bust, is shirred at the shoulder and under-arm seams, with the fronts brought down into a gold slide. This gives an open neck V- shape, which may be filled in with lace yoke or a chemisette effect, if de- sired.
 The sleeves are. primarily, Greek. straight and flowing, but caught up