The evening times. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1906-1914, 1906-03-26

| iouhu tnelf COST seems out OF proper
ton to their cut and finish. They can
be more economically comprised in
the work-room at home, or by low
priced but efficient dressmaker.
The rules to follow in the cutting
and making of the shirt waist suits are
few but imperative. The skirt must
be circular. clearing the ground an
inch and half at least, two inches
| Is better perhaps, but not an eighth
shorter. If desired one can make the
skirt with a hip yoke to which the rest
of the skirt Is attached. Tucks and
plaits can be used as the taste or ma
terial decide. The fit and the hang and
the length are the really important
parts. The waist belonging with this
Skirt is guided in its pattern by
either tucks, plaits or ganthers are
the motif of the skirt
If tucked the tucks extend from
shoulder to belt line and quite across
the front from arm to arm. Some
times yoke of plain cloth is used
and the tucks or gathers spring from
this just over the bust. The bishop
sleeve with the deep cuff is the only
style suitable for this costume, and a
standing collar is the proper finish for
the neck
Next to the shirt waist for useful
ness Is the afternoon home dress, or
luncheon gown. When one wants to
drop the useful but not put on the
elaborate dress. For these pretty
costumes the circular skirt is again in
demand, but it is cut longer than for
the shirt waist suit and is finished
around the bottom with tucks or ruff
f1oC ~ c0Y,1nf{vonu I 6o, =
fiounce fastened to a yoke, or it may
be accordian plated.
These home gowns are usually of
nuns Yelling, albatross and soft woods
OF whatever name. The waist and
sleeves match the skirt, that is, the
foundation does. They usually are cut
away to show more or less elaborate
chemisettes, and the sleeves reach
only to the elbow, finishing in dressy
undersleeves.
1t must be noticed that the two
costumes just described call for two
distinct varieties of skirt and they
must differ in cut and hang to be in
keeping with their purpose. while the
same pattern may be used for both.
The afternoon skirt is circular like
the walking skirt, but if to be used
for afternoon it must be demi-train
and dressy-if for evening wear it
must be very long, graceful and
fluffy. The walking skirt as described
escape the ground.
In choosing and planning a skirt
please keep in mind that the person
to wear it must be studied more than
the skirt itself-selecting for the stout
person the long vertical lines and for
the tall woman yokes and flounces to
make dividing lines and to give
breadth.
The colors shown this season in
ribbons, silks, woods and velvets are
enchanting and must prove Invariably
becoming. Old rose, raspberry red
and shades of pink are very popular.
Even broadcloth suits are being worn
in these prevailing soft, pinkish tones.
There have been many predictions
of a pure white" summer, and of
course there will always be plenty
of white frocks worn, but the beauti-
full and becoming colors which are a
feature of the Spring goods can be no
means be passed by. Some of these
exquisite, shades are in material suit
able for evening wraps, and one lead
ing New York house has wonderful
display of colored suits and evening
wraps. These were shades of green and
gray, dainty coral color, and the popu-
lar Alice blue. The only drawback to
this feast of color is the danger of
the wrong shade being donned by the
wrong coloring. The pale dull skin
can safely choose the reseda and dull
reds, and the rosy full face must be
set above greys and greens.
A charming blue suit was particu-
larly noticeable at this opening, tho
all were SO lovely it was hard to select
any one particular. 1t was of soft
and silky but firm cloth, cut with plain
circular skirt touching the floor.
Three wide bands of blue velvet of
exactly the same shade as the dress
were laid in folds Stimulating tucks
around the bottom of the skirt, one
fold close to the floor, the others
tOld's width apart. The waist white
taffeta, showing but little, however,
under the blue bolero jacket, which
had q blue velvet revere collar, narrow
and rolling. The Jacket was fastened
by bands of the cloth and dull gold
buttons The sleeves were full and
to the elbow, where they were met by
the long-wristed white gloves. The
girdle of the dress was of the blue
cloth fastened by the same dull gold
buttons as the bolero. Two of these
buttons were on each sleeve holding
back a little velvet cuff. The hat was
gray felt trimmed with blue chiffon
and a blue and white wing. The
costume was exceedingly attractive,
being stylish as we'll as graceful. 1t
could be used as a.model for any color