The Washington times., 1906-05-20

~ Vlded into two classes, those for
n formal occasions and those for
informal occasions. The former
.are very elaborate affairs while the lat
zer are comparatively simple. The in
formal afternoon gown may be worn for
a variety Of purposes. which makes II
practical. especially as it may take the
place of the more elaborate gown for
formal functions If one has not a large
wardrobe.
While we are copying the French
quite closely this season in our chic
frocks we differ from them distinctly in
our mode Of dressing for the afternoon.
There IS 4 great difference in the out
line of day clothes for the two nations.
The Frenchwoman dresses in the morn
ing in gowns which are almost severely
simple, and makes a special toilette for
the afternoon, which is very handsome
and elaborate. The American woman, Sn
the contrary, likes 70 make one toilette
for the day. This custom has been the
means of Introducing among us an en-
Drely new style OF dress.
1t is a style simpler than the after
noon gown of the Frenchwoman and
more elaborate than her morning gowns
ever are. This gown is universally
American and, because It serves duty
III BOlA lHt llOIuAll6 6tAI aANNAAACpAis -
q favorite form Of dress. and quite
economy. too, for It saves the cost OF a
second dress for either morning or af-
Iernoon wear.
Our Informal afternoon gown is. there
fore, distinctly American, although its
lines are French.
'FShall My Gown Train or Not7"
The reason for this is simple enough.
she goes out in the morning she returns
home for luncheon, while the American
woman follows just the opposite course.
When she goes out IN the morning she
invariably lunches with a friend or al
restaurant The fact that she means TO
do this leads her to don a dress suffl-
GENTLY elaborate for a quiet luncheon
and yet plain enough not to be cOnspic-
uous upon an expedition to the shops.
The style of this informal afternoon
gown is Individual, and women often.
therefore. become confused as to its
proper length. Should my gown train
or not2" they ask me constantly.
Happily there is a choice I'm this re-
spect. GCwrs may be either trained for
afternoon wear or short. provided they
are not too short. The sensible really
short gowns which we wore two seasons
ago have given place to the so-called
short gown which escapes the ground all
around. bul which is of very little prac-
teal use in sloppy weather
In these gowns the tendency is to have
the tons of them very much trimmed
and the skirts quite plain. Indeed, the
simpler the skirts the better. since trim
ming breaks the graceful lines in which
the, are cut Only tall woman can
loo1 really we'll in a muCh-trimmed
skirt
The coats or bodices Of afternoon
gowns are embroidered or braided or
trimmed in some pretty fashion, but the
farcv OF the day is more for decorative
effects carried out in hand embroidery
or braided designs. Very often bodices
are almost entirely of lace or embroid-
cry, or the material of the dress COM
bined with lace There are, indeed, a
hundred ways OF making up smart and
attractive dresses for Informal afternoon
wear Every woman strives to have
sone touch of originality in the trim
ming of her bodice and brings this about
with braids, twists OF ribbons, folds,
lace, embroidery. and the application OF
the numerous forms of separate trim
mines which may he combined with the
other trimmings upon a garment All
sorts of combinations are permissible,
provided they are harmonious
The Vogue for Corselet Gowns.
There is a decided vogue for corselet
rovns-which gre skirts that begin just
below the bust and carry out long prin-
cess or Empire lines. These are worn
over lace bodices more often than with
bodices Of the material The lace boil
ices are touched with the dress material
about the sleeves and upper portion
and nave a belt that harmoniZes WITH
the skirt Frequently the lace is ar
ranged to drOop just over the top OF
the corselct skirt and conceal where II
begins, bur this must be done carefully
10 escape the haggy effect which none
of the new bodices should possess
The mai jority of the corselet skirts 1rt
made in the fitted princess style. Thi:
NAV be said OF most of the afternoon
gowns for il is evident that during thi:
season Empire gowns, unless much mod
flied. will not prevail American womeT
will not wear them The modified EN-
pire shows more OF the lines of the fig
ure than the French Empire gown pre-
tends to do. This modified Empire gowr
IS so difficult that ! would not adVisi
an amateur to attempt to make one. Tn.
regulation Empire gown for house, even
ing and negligce wear is easily made q
home by the unsl<ilied needlewonnal
with some idea of shaping a gown; bu
the par.lv fitted Empire. which Is use,
for day wear out of doors. is the mos
So 1eal with. Its lines are suggestion