Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-25

bronze, laid over deep raspberry pink, or
any old shade of blue, is too effective to be
lightly discarded; but on the whole it Is
only the spangled gowns that are made up
in some novel and striking way that are
really fashionable.
Brocade satin, satin-inished slk-any
texture, in fact, with soft, natural sheen
cannot fail this season to make a smart
evening costume. There are satins exqui-
stely simple and satins marvelously en-
brodered; brocades that are in themselves
so handsome that any added trimming
fapart from the lace bertha) would seem
veritable crime. Then brocade ball gown
will be seen that is beautiful because OF
the hand embroidery worked in between the
designs on the material, while interSperSed
with these truly gorgeous costumes one Will
pick out gown of silk trimmed only with
fine lace and dainty flowers that will be
perhaps the most attractive costume in the
room. All this goes to show the perfection
of the dressmaker's art today, for here Is
illustrated so that all can interpret the fact
that handsome materials do not necessarily
make the most effective costumes, nor cost
alone turn out the most attractive gowns.
However, it is worth while, whenever posi-
Bile, to put good material in a dress, and
especially with satin or brocade the result
seen in the finished gown more than Just1-
fies the original expenditure.
Many of the brocades this year are very
beautiful. The large rose or peony designs
are wonderfully effective, but for one of
slight, rather short figure small pattern
should be selected. White brocade, with a
design of gold or silver instead of flowers,
is seen among this winters novelties. Trim
med with cloths Of gold silver or with
lace picked out in gold or silver spangles,
gowns of this texture will be quite eff
fective as and much handsomer than the
spangled net robe. Then, too, there are a
number of brocades with simple garland
or flower design, the pattern being traced
out in gold steel paillettes, whichever
happen to accord best with the color of the
brocade. Louis XVI jackets of brocade
worn over a skirt and vest of white lace
ing models as we'll in the reception
dresses. The sleeves for this style of dress
may be either of the silk chiffon and
lace, generally lace puff falling from I'M
being preferred. For a dinner gown the
brocade coat and white lace skirt is a
favorite model. In spite Of It's having been
popular now for some seasons.
Whole gowns of cloth Of gold or cloth of
silver are not nearly SO effective as one
would imagine, for the material requires
considerable trimming and adornment to be
shown to advantage. and for some reason
few modistes seem to realize this fact and
persist in thinking that the material is in
Itself sufficiently handsome to make but
very little trimming necessary. Made up,
however, with spangled lace, and II the ma
terial itself has some heavy embroidery OF
silk or ribbon work upon it, then the de-
sired effect is brought out. Generally some
decided color is needed, and this can be
given by vivid pink yellow rose being
placed In the corsage with a hair ornament
to correspond. One gown made up In cloth
of silver was extremely pretty. The bodice
was made in the surplce effect the mate
rial being crossed in front and back over
chemisette of white lace. The sleeves under
the wide scarf formed by the cloth of silver
consisted of hanging drapery of white chif-
fon trimmed with bands of the silver and
lace, with an almost invisible undersleeye
or puff Of white chiffon and lace caught
into narrow, straight band of the silver
The long train skirt was trimmed with
narrow ruffes of lace caught up here and
there with little rosettes of the silver Just
In front in the corsage was a large musk
rose of faint pink.
Figured chiffons are in vogue once more