Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-14


folds of yellow chiffon. Yellow velvet
bows from which fall double frills OF point
applique are set on the ends Of the ap-
pliqued folds. The blouse has little
shawl collar of irish crochet, and from
the tapered ends of this collar folds of
the chiffon turn back from little vest OF
finely tucked yellow liberty satin edged at
the top by folds of apricot-colored yellow
tule. The sleeves show the velvet bows
and falls of applique lace and the girdle
is CT apricot-colored velvet ribbon with an
oval gold buckle.
The al-over valenciennes blouse for a
young girl has Its tucked yoke of fine
linen mule, and there are insertions of
crossing bands of white satin ribbon work
ed with pale-blue French knots.
The little gray crepe silk blouse has 1T
tie rings of dark red scattered all over 1t,
and the imitation baby Irish crochet yoke
and stock are trimmed with rows of mar
row red velvet the color of the dots. The
sleeves are finished with lengthwise ruch-
ed tucks, and each has three little circular
rufties of the silk bound with red velvet
ribbon, and an inner ruftie of valenciennes
lace.
A novel frock in jour work and plain
cloth appears in the wardrobe of a New
York woman just returned from abroad.
This gown has the double jupe, never let
us call it ''overskirt' effect.
The skirt proper just clears the ground.
1t is really plated fiounce set on just
above the knee-lne to a silk founda ton
The tunic comes in the front to within
eight inches of the edge of the under sec
tCn, and is perhaps an inch shorter in the
back, but at each side it is sixteen inches
from the edge. The lower eight inches of
this upper jupe is done in cut work or a
jour after the stereotyped eyeet-Work de-
sign of the open English embroidery. The
top of the skirt is laid in half-inch tucks
from the waist line to well below the hips.
The tucks or plaits are deepest in the front,
extend inches
low those at the hips; in the back they do
not run as deep as the side tucks, but in
the back they are released-although all are
pressed in from where the stitching termi-
mates nearly to the jour work. The tuck
ing forms tight corselet effect.
The top of the gown has a tight-fitting
body of the cloth, apparently attached to
the skirt section, and over this is worn a
little sleeveless coatee entirely of the jour
work cloth. The material, by the way,
is much like chiffon broadcloth, and is a
beautiful shade of soft brown bordering on
castor color. This little coat slips on over
the head. and is open far enough down the
center to permit this, the opening being
concealed by the clever adjustment of a
bow with ends of darker colored ribbon
velvet having heavily embroidered ends.
Tie standing collar is also of jour work,
finished at the top with scallops. and hav-
ing laid under the edge a band of the vel
vet ribbon like the bow and ends at the
front.
This coatee covers the front and back,
and a the shoulders or armhOles it projects
out an inch or more over the sleeves. Be-
low the waist line il forms a little fiaring
position in the back, and in the front ex-
tends to the same length, but is nearly fiat
A sha ped belt of brown velvet is attached
to the two sections in the back it is sewn
on. and in the front and at the sides it
hooks invisibly, it holds the coat in
place Down the center front are three
graduated whorl-shaped designs, the larg
est being a. the top.
The sleeves are large plated puffs of the
plain cloth banded in above the elbows by
folds of brown velvet, showing bows and
short ends at the back, the ends being
longer than the loops of the bows and en-
broidered at their ends in bullion, so they
are heavy and hang well, matching also
is a sharped cuff of jour work, the lower
edges of which scalloped.
sensible yet handsome three-quarter-
length coat in black chiffon velvet has the
back three-quarters fitted, while the front
hangs loose. 1t closes in the center front
with three immense cabochonS in pale blue
enamel and silver, and with three silk cord
loops. The revers very short and wide;
the tops meeting at the center seam in the
back. and therefore forming the collar as
we'll. They are of white cloth. nearly COW
cred at the edges with black silk soutache
braid The centers are gold lilies, done in
gold bullion on pale blue velvet
The sleeves come to the wrists and are
very large They are plated into the arms
eyes and also at the bottom into faring,
turned-back cuffs. four inches wide. of blue
velvet embroidered in lilies and done in
gold bullion. At the inner seam of each
cuff is single blue and silver cabochon,
and lines of silver also appear in the leaves
arranged around the dull gold bullion in