The Globe-republican., 1906-05-10
FRAUDS IN COOKERY.
MIRACLES PERFORMED By TILE
INGENIOUS CHEZ.
Goldfish Speedily Becomes Salmon
and Beef Is Turned Into Veal,
Which in Turn Becomes
Fowl.

1t has almost passed into a proverb
that many Of the dishes served up in
cheap restaurants where nothing Is
wasted are, to put it mildly, mysteries.
But, on the other hand, most people who
patronize fashionable and more am
bilious restaurants are generally con-
tent to accept the menu for what it is
said to be. This blind trust is, however,
in many such restaurants somewhat
abused, and the amount of taking"
which goes on to-day in some Of the
well-to-do establishments would prob
ably surprise those who are uninitiated
in the higher branches of the culinary
art
For instance, by the addition Of vege-
table juice just before being dished up,
cod outlets are, at seasons when salmon
is very dear, set before customers as
salmon outlets, and are, needless to say,
charged accordingly. This deception
according to an ex-chef of one of Lou
don's leading restaurants, is widely
practiced not only in better class res
taurants, but also on some of the great
liners
Another popular trick as practiced by
the restaurateur is to serve as veal beef
done up overnight in sailed bandages,
while skillful chef has very little diff
Guilty in palming off whiting for sole on
epicures who pride themselves on the
soundness of their judgment of cooking.
A few weeks ago a dinner for IS peo
pie was ordered at well-known fash
ionable restaurant. A large consign-
ment of salmon had been previously or
dered, but to the CONSERVATION of the
chef the dinner hour slowly approached
and still no salmon arrived.
In despair the chef-a Frenchman-
decided to take the bull by the horns"
and procure another fish to do duty for
the coveted salmon. Accordingly, he
set to work to turn cod outlets into salm-
on outlets, and this rapid transforms
ton was soon effected by an addition
of vegetable juice. The walters, who
naturally were aware of this wholesale
deception, were given express orders to
report any complaints to the chef at
once. However, to the intense delight
of the chef, all passed off well, and on
hearing that his subterfuge had not
been detected he gleefully exclaimed: 4
"Ah, a cod and French cook can work
miracles"
Green peas at certain seasons of the
year are naturally luxury quite be-
yond the reach of the man of average
means, while even caterers for fashion
able hotels themselves frequently have
the greatest difficulty in getting suffl-
GENTLY large quantity to meet the de-
mand. However, to fake peas does not
offer any great difficulty in times of
stress, and'by adding vegetable coloring
matter yellow peas are quite commonly
served up as green peas along with the
duck and flavorless new potato, which
more often than not comes from abroad.
Roast veal served with thick white
sauce makes, says a well-known chef,
most satisfactory substitute for the
breast of chicken, and therefore 1t does
not come altogether as surprise to
learn that the breast Of one Chicken"
has been known to satisfy IL hungry
diners.
".The staff take good care Of the breast
OF chicken" was the comment of
waiter who was being for the first time
initiated into the mystery Of how to
feed dozen people off one chicken.
Perhaps the cleverest deception prac-
ticed by eminent chefs is the art Of
manufacturing the lobster patty, so dear
to the heart Of the epicure. This ap-
petizing dainty would at first sight
seem to defy even the most ingenious
cookery faker. However, here again
the artful chef has overcome apparently
insuperable difiiculties, and many tooth
some looking lobster patties are thus
not always quite what they are said
to be.