The evening times. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1906-1914, 1906-03-13

o. 81.
them made with pun which stops It
the elbow to meet a cuff which, with
It's scalloped edges, Stimulates the
s deepest Of the many versions of turn
back cuffs.
An occasional model is cut with
very wide shoulders-so wide, in fact,
that they extend way over onto the
upper arm. On some of them the
wide shoulder line Is got by the clever
cutting Of little scalloped bits which
stick out very much like epaulets, and
give little military touch to the shirt
waist, which is very pretty in the
sheer, soft stuff.
A pretty variation of tucked styles
has the tucks. laid to initiate double
box pleats all the way across the
front. Down each side of the center
box pleat run narrow, full ruffles re-
.peated around cuffs and collar. The
cuffs are made for link buttons Gin
spite of the fact that they turn back)
and are wide enough to permit of
their closing easily over the buttons
without minding the sleeve. If you
use two sets of buttons for each cuff,
let them be the kind which is made
of two big pearl buttons, or make them
yourself by sewing two buttons to-
gether on a long loop, and button
holing the loop. For single pair of
jeweled buttons space the buttonholes
about in the middle of the edge.
Scalloped turn-back cuffs, for that
matter, the receiving great favor in
Paris, upon some of her charming YER
sions of the eminently American shirt
waist. Instead Of being separate af-
fairs, put on the finished sleeve, the
sleeves are often cut just little too
long, turned back a scant inch, and
scalloped. In the case of the elbow
cuff-the one that pretends to turn
back-scallops the accumulated by but
tons set in each scallop.
When these cuffs are used they are
often an echo of the same scalloping
applied by way Of trimming some
where else on the shirt waist An at
tractive way is to cut the shirt waist
without any unnecessary fulness, lay
ing it in two or three tucks, which are
stitched part way from waist to
collar, the top of each tuck being cut
into two or three scallops, each scallop
(and those which finish the long
shoulder on top of the sleeve) set off
by button.
Sometimes the scallops are cut in
the material, the front of the> waist
really being cut In several pieces, the
seams hidden by the seeming tucks.
And the scallops are occasionally
rounded and stitched like the rest,
instead of being buttonholed. in the
more usual way.
Front and Jokes cut in one furnish
another one of the many tailored ideas,
which is carried out still further by
buttons set on in paris. But that shirt
waist may be changed utterly If, in
stead of buttons, the plain front be
embroidered, or the edge of the yoke
be scalloped,
AS to collars, they were never so
fascinating, nor were SO many styles
possible for use with the palmer sort
of shirt waists, now that we have
got away from the unattractive habit,
which prevailed couple of years ago
of pinning separate stocks upon any
and every sort of shirt waist or blouse
regardless of its type. View eseparate
stocks with us still, but the fad has
died out and left a sensible, pretty
fashion in Its stead, of stocks which
are in keeping with the character Of
the waist they are to be worn with
and, best of all, of the separate turn
down linen collars.
Nearly every woman who can wear
a '.stiff" collar (for they still go by
that name) is busily at it, making up
a supply of them. Every sort of coll IT
that is just one removed from the old
plain mannish kind is popular, from
those just finished with hemstitching,
with French knots. perhaps, trimming
the hem, to those embroidered in big,
effective eyelets all the way round,
with hundred pretty conceits in be-
tween. OF collars edged with scallops,
with a wee ruffle of the material
springing out under the edge and
softening the assumed severity of the
style. Some Of the prettieSD of them
are embroidered with color-those
French blues, which remind you, with
curious Sirrelevance, of Dutch china,
and a dull red or black being the fay-
orfte colors for the work.
AS to blouses, the prettiest things
really belonging more to their first
cousins, the shirt-waist family-a.e
madebf handkerchief linen, or of that
soft, pretty MULE which is SO easy to
work with, and does up so we'll.
OF course, with regard to blouses,
there are new, beautiful things hap
pening all the while-new ways of
setting in lace Tor more lace) or uf
tanglfng lace and embroidery up into
the daintiest, most picturesque confu-
sion imaginable. And on 80 blouses
out of 100 elbow sleeves are seen, the
sleeves trimmed as much as the
blouse itself.
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