davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28

Pratt Alice Marquaud, Jane Hone Lewis.
Aimee Letiugwell. Louise NanderhOef and
Adelaide Baylis. made up handsome
group of girls. Indeed. the Juliet head
dresses would have been quite out Of place
on plain girls. Large bows of white tulle,
each having four ends partially supported
by butterfly wings in rather duh gold
gauze. formed the greater part OF each
headdress. the remaining portion being the
Juliet caps of-ciei blue beads quarter of
an inch through. to which these bows were
attached. These little caps were the shape
of the nets -Drn in the time of Juliet and
Romeo, but were almost solid circles of the
blue beads wound loosely circle after circle
until about six inches by seven in width
and length respectively.
Their gowns were cel blue chiffon cloth
and white she'll lace, and each carried
huge spray Of mauve orchids. The white
lace formed a stock and guimpe for each
gown; then came shirred puffs of chiffon
cloth. followed by bertha ruffies of shell
lace the ends of which crossed in surplice
fashion and tapered down in the center to
points. The sleeves had the lace ruffies eX
tending out over their tops. which were also
of the lace, gathered into short, full puffs,
followed by bands of the blue above mar
row lace frils. Then came the close founda-
ton of chiffon cloth. followed in turn by
white lace rutfles ending above the elbows.
The skirts were full, shirred at the tops
and finished at the bottom by three or four
very wide tucks their own width apart and
above the tuCkS narrow box ruChingS of the
chiffon ran up and down in Zgzag points.
The maid OF honor Miss May Taylor
Muuton. a brilliant brunette, was a marked
contrast to the blonde fairness of the bride
She was In white lace and white chiffon
There was an unlined lace yoke to the
gown and with round neck. The lower part
OF the yoke was outlined by band perhaps
two inches wide of white lace loose at the
lower edge. and from under this dropped a
bertha frill of white lace some six inches
broad. The band and frills separated in the
center front some six inches, and where the
band met at the top a diamond and pearl
spray was fastened
The sleeves were short puffS of white
lace followed by wide bands and two lace
rutfes ending a the elbows.
The skirt was a trailing white chiffon
with. say. five inch-wde tucks al the bot
tom. over this hung the white lace panels
attached 10 the lace bodice, a narrow white
satin band formed a dividing line These
panels came below the knees and were per
haps twelve inches wide. and were of lace
edged with narrow lace ruffles. the slashes
and rutfles extending nearly to the waist
line In her dark couture were three small
white ostrich tips nOdding toward the front
Like the bridesmaids she carried mauve
orchids
The bride. a tall, slight blonde OF ex-
IRENE fairness. and with n pale creamy
complexion. wore a trailing princess robe
Of especially lustrous white satin, entirely
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28

over here we are enthusiastically adopting.
1t resembles suede kid in that it has the
same dull. thick surface and the same
bloom. The color in this instance was
pearl gray with several rows of braid of
the same shade on the corselet skirt and
ceverly arranged scrolls of the braid on
the bolero jacket. The short blouse of
a coarse make of brussels net, toning ex-
actly with the cloth. The toque and stole
were of the gray net, and in the former
there were several white gardenias placed
we'll TO the front. Over the toque was
long veil of spotted and embroidered net In
a subdued shade of violet. Rather a start
ling costume for a young girl from
French viewpoint, but then you know
America is free, likewise its inhabitants.
A hat which caused much interest ana
amusement at the show was an exact model
o. motor car made in leather. 1t must
be confessed that this quaint hat was IL
Illustrative of Partisan ingenuity rather than
of the proverbial good taste of the race
InGeed, a headdresS dinner party would De
the only really suitable occasion for don
ming millinery which must attract more at
tention than admiration. These hats, or
course, were not intended to be taken Sc
riously or to be worn anywhere except IN
side the show as advertisement, but the
present mania for novelty might lead those
who will sacrifice everything for this quail
fty to adopt them. Let us trust that this
will not be the case, for it might end in
complete revolution in the millinery world
ana in Our demanding that we shall no
longer wear meaningless feathers and HOW
ers on our heads, but hats and toques
faithfully representing not only our motor
cars but our houses and public buildings
The sole consolation would be that the study
and practice of architectural millinery
would open new field for woman's super
huouS energy.
The latest toGue-and how trying 1t is
is the large velvet beret utterly innocent
of brim and more often than not loaded
with ostrich feathers At the Salon TAu-
tomobile, Martha Brandes. the chic Paris
ian actress, was wearing one of these try
ing shapes in lovely color known here as
eyeuue-purple-and with a flowing veil 10
match, but even on her exquisite head 1t
looked topheayy and altogether oyerpower-
ing It really seems as though the velvet
beret for demiseaSon chapeau would be
as much in vogue as the marabou set, but
I solemnly warn all women under five rect
nine inches against the former. picture
hat with a huge crown-ln the peef-eaief
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28
The way to Put Them On

Never get your corsets so large that the
two sections meet when you lace them.
They should always be at least two inches
apart-they'u be more comfortable that way
and better for you.
The new corssts really require attached
garters-those extreme In length having an
extra set-to hold them down firmly over
the hips.
Loosen the laces and hook your corsets
up. then fasten the garters and slip your
right hand down inside your corsets,
smoothing the flesh up and at the same
time hold your corsets down with your left
hand. When they are perfectly set, and
only then, draw up the laces. bring them
around to the front and tie under the big
hook that is sewed directly over one of the
steels.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28

styles all very well. but when It comes
to wearing the same crown without the
slightest shadow OF brim one ought TO
pause to reflect whether she can AFFORD to
run the beauty risk.
We are firing of the tiny acrobatic hats
that have become 50 whimsicaily fascinat-
ing and are returning to our old favortte.
the toque. which. after all Is said and done.
is the most universally chic piece of head
gear we have ever had. For the Riviera.
I have lately seen some delightful toques
composed entirely OF the smallest magma
Bile roeettes in crepe de chine with mar
row band OF velvet edging the upturned
brim- These rosettes are so beautifully
made and so fiat that they seem Ike
strangely tinted fur at short distance.
and in certain shades of violet they are
charming To wear with the toaues / have
just described there are long wells of point
d'esprit with tucked ends. and above the
tucks delicate traceries of silver or gold
thread
In theater hats there Is nothing quite so
smart as the small wreath OF crumpied
roses in compact mass sewed to a beret
of black velvet. covered with tplie and
long black or white paradise plume sweep
ing the hair on one side, but the secret OF
success lies in the heret at the back, which
IL of wire and gives the correct tilt.
Some one has wisely said that it Is the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28

yelled even to the train, with exquisite
point lace. In the front there was pointed
tablier effect of lace, and below this WIDE
lace flounce bordering the end OF the train
The top of the robe had lace stock and
unlined yoke, and narrow lace ruffie broke
the line between the unlined lace and the
lace of the lower part of the corsage me
veil formed n coronet effect back on top OF
the pompadour of the couture, being caught
with orange blossoms. She wore long
string of beautiful pearls wound three
times around her neck. hanging in loops
and also diamond and pearl ornament,
the gift of the bridegroom. She carried
very large bouquet of valley lilies from
which hung innumerable trails of narrow
white ribbon.
Mrs Arthur Moulton. mother of the bride,
was also in white lace. a coat and skirt
with appiiuues of black lace leaves and
flowers topped by a high toque of black
tulIe sparkling with small jet spangles and
having a black bird OF paradise plume.
The skirt of the gown trailed. band
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28
Muslin.

Today is essentially the reign of all kinds
of muslin. and there Is not one among US
who does not recognize its value in dress
or decoration. But how did muslin derive
it's manner
Muslin is so called from having first been
manufactured at Mosul, or Moussul, a town
in Turkish Asia. 1t was afterward made In
India and imported into England about 1870
About twenty years after II was manufac-
tured in France and England, and now. as
we are well aware. there are endless varie-#
ties of the original fabric. many OF which
rival in flneness the most beautiful kinds
hailing from India.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28

handsome and in good taste, but the woman
who puts on ermine to wear out in the
morning with plain walking gown betrays
her ignorance of sartorial propriety. It is
also a fur that should never be anything
but spotessly white. 1t should be cleaned
whenever any trace of dinginess appears,
and unless this can be done 1t should not be
purchased. Its chief beauty is Its inmacu-
late wrfteness MARIE WELDON.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28

vitality make you negligent of duty and
prevent you from making the best OF HE
as you go on. girl may have for a
favorite teacher a sort of alteration that is
morbid and foolish. or she may In secret
cherish a sort of devotion to somebody she
hardly knows. living a dream life that IN
fits her for either work or play. In friend
ship, dear girl, cultivate sense of pro-
portion.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28
Special Correspondence of The star.
NEW YORK January q

NEW YORK. January %, 1906.
~W~ PHITE satin and point lace In
both wells and gowns marked
NAl the robes of Miss Bessie Moul-
'" ton and Miss Maoel Bacon.
Juliet caps and white ostrich
tins instead of hats were the novelties worn
by the formers attendants. and white
broadcloth instead of filmy fabrics was the
distinctive note of the costumes OF the lat
ter's maid Of honor and attendants.
Miss Moulton who is now Mrs. Lloyd AS
pinwai. certainly achieved one of the most
novel and at the same time artistic effects
possible in the headdresses o. her attend
ants while her own gown was marvel of
richness.
But first 10 the headdreSses. The at
tendants. who were the Misses Constance
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28

Easter Is In process OF manufacture. and
the writer has been allowed to examine
tho plates. It IL q Princess robe, with
surplice effects in the front The long.
square train ID formed OF underlying box
piafts that do not show until some SIX
teen inches below the waist Hire. The bot
tom and sides OF the skirt. all but the
train, are to be tffmmed with an eight
inch founce Of point applique. headed by
a Quadruple box ruching of not this ruch-
Ing at the sides where 1t ends curls around
toward the front and then in again. taper
ing to point at the end.
The top is cut round IN the back and
v in the front to show the high collar
and guimpe of finely tucked net over chif-
fon. An edght-inch fiounce of point ap-
plique, each edge being finished In points.
Is laid on to form nehu effect and ex-
tends out over the sleeves in epaulet eff
fects. The left side of the hounce crosses
over at the bust line and extends down
toward the left side 1t Is drawn In to a
point two inches in width at the waist
hne, and then fiaring out ends in single
scarf end at the top of the lace hounce
bordering the robe, the end being draped
up with orange blossoms to the left side
Trails of orange blossoms and buds eX-
tend the whole length of the ffchu and
sash effect on the bodice. they are put on
about two inches from the upper edge, but
down the Graped sash end they are caught
in the center.
The sleeves are long, the tops are high,
rather wide puffs of the satin, and from the
elbows down are almost tight. At the bot
tom are cuffs of point applique lace laid
over chiffon, and these, while close around
the wrists, flare at the top, 5everse Tuftie
effect being given The veil Will be OF net,
with a border of point applique, and there
will be held in place by chaplet of orange
blossoms,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28
SCHOOL GIRLS AND
FALSE VALUES
Copyright. 1906. by Joseph b. Bowles.)
BY MARGARET f. SANGsTER.

l hope you won't be frightened or fancy
that II isn't of Importance to school girls
when | ask you to talk with about
sense of proportion. Very few of US have
lust that right idea of the real value of
things that makes US keep our lives well
balanced
Most of US run to extremes. For in
stance. there is Annie who feels that moth
ing is so needful as to be always tidy and
well dressed; from her head to her feet
Annie is so trim and shining that it Is a
positive delight to look at her. She boasts
that she never wears the same white shirt
waist two days in succession, that her
frocks and her petticoats are always fresh
from the laundry and that she never mas
so much as hair ribbon out of place.
| hold rather rigid Views about neatness
myself and l think it inexcusable in girl
to have boots run down at the heels and
lacking buttons or to wear gloves that
should be mended, but When | remember
that Annie's mother keeps only one maid,
and that her father is a clerk on a small
salary, and there are four other children
in the family, / am driven to the conclusion
that the number of shirt waists in the wash
every week convicts Annie of extreme sell
ishness. She purchases her Immaculate
appearance at too great cost, since she is
far too busy with high school work to do
her own washing and ironing. When girl
exalts one good quality at the expense OF
self-denial of a. hard-worked mother, she
shows very plainly that she has no sense of
proportion.
/ could tell you of women, not school
girls, who having failed to secure true
feeling for harmony when they were
young have made life burden for every
body belonging to them ever since they
grew up. They have made fetish or sys-
TEN; having determined to have breakfast
at fixed hour, they have been wretched
themselves and made everybody else so, IL
a single person in the family came down a
few minutes after the clock had struck I
or 8, as the case might be. Their house,
wefk had to be done on certain days, at
any cost. There was no freedom or elas-
ticity in their regime; they lacked a sense
of proportion. System Is an excellent SER
want, but when 1t is made a master 1t be-
comes the worst of tyrants / want you
to do your work according to method. but
occasionally put the method aside IL the
interruption will tend to the general we'll
being of the day.
to a character whose name is Mrs. Jeiiyby.
This lady is very charitable and spends her
time In doing good works. She writes In
Vulnerable letters and sends them to the
ends of the earth. She carries on societies
that make flannel skirts for children in At
RIGA and sends leaflets in an unknown
tongue to people who cannot read. OF.
course. there is extravagance In this de-
scription, and yet there are women OF the
Jellyby type in the world. Their missionary
effort Is not practical nor sensible. They in-
trude into homes where they are not want
ed and ask impertinent questions of the
poor and hestow aims where ainsgiving -
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28

panel, it's only decoration being two sec
tons of the Greek key design in velvet an
inch wide matching the cloth. and a row
of small cabochons or large buttons on each
side of this decoration, the latter being GRO
Chef touched with chenille embroidery. The
side and back sections of the skirt are
trimmed with bands OF silk braid the color
of the skirt; these bands are ten in num-
Der and vary from an inch and a half to a
half inch in width, each band being the
width of the one beneath 1t from the one
above next above. Just below the knees a
narrow band of the fur encircles all but the
front panel; three inches above this is a
second band, and after another three inch
es of space there comes a third band.
The sleeves end at the elbows in fur
bands, each having two little brown tails
at the back. and lace frills hang down
from under the fur. The top is cut away
to show fancy lace embroidered stock and
guimpe, and the fur edges this opening and
ends at the bust line on each side in two of
the little tails.
A small hat of beaver several shades
lighter than the gown has a crown of a
darker shade of velvet. and about the base
of the crown there is a band of the fur and
a cluster of three ostrich tips matching the
gown trail of the left and back.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28

Another gown illustrating the effective
use of fur Is black broadcloth trimmed
with ermine. The top of the little bolero
bodice is cut in to show circular yoke Of
Irish crochet and the cloth is bordered by
an inch wide band of ermine. with the tails
so inserted that their ends extend out a
mere trife over the pointed band of the
lace inserted under the edge of the fur. The
sleeves, ending bit below the elbows. are
also finished with ermine bands, and some
two inches from the hem of the gown an
inch-wide band OF the fur goes around 1t.
The hat to wear with 1t has Its supper brim
of ermine, and a large fiat, ermlne muff is
to be carried.
A third gown trimmed with fur is a black
velvet trimmed with black caracul The
skirt trails and Is plain, but the long, al
most tight coat is bordered at the bottom
with a three-inch band. The side seams
are also left open up to nearly the widest
part of the hips-the coat comes to within
eight inches of the fioor-and three-inen
bands of the fur extend up each side CT
the seams, tapering TO a meeting point
where they close.
The fronts show two-inch bands of the
fur up each side of the neck. and TINS
also forms a military collar. The coat
closes with large crochet cabochons ar
each side, loops of cord crossing the fur
and looping over the cabochons. Inc
sleeves are large and full at the top. and
below the elbow are laid in deep pIaits
SO that a cuff effect Is obtained four
inch bands of the caracuI forming Close
almost tight, cuffs.
Another example in fur In recent trous-
seau is dark green velvet trimmed with
chinchtlla. There Is a four-inch band of
chinchtlla two inches from the bottom of
the robe. and the coat has chinchflia coll
lar and cuffs. A long wide stole and huge
mum and small teale, all of the fur. COM
plete 1t.
Another wedding gown to be worn at
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28
PARIS FASHIONS.
Special Correspondence Of The Star.
PARIS. January ID.

SPecnAi CoffesPonoenee or The star.
PARIS. January Ii. 1906
Y LII Paris IL dtsportlng itself at the
~ automobile show and from morn
- ing until night one hears nothing
but petrol prattiing.' This Is
the latest auto phrase invented by
q clever young writer. and does it not rep
resent tome In nutshell? OF course to
the lay mind 1t is meaningless. but then
automobile jargon to the uninitiated is
even as hieroglyphics on an Egyptian
mummy case. Every day the Grand Paiais
is crowded to overlooking. but Friday is
the fashionable afternoon when Hitra-faris-
iaas appear in their most fetching toilets.
1t Is the correct thing to breakfast at
Emile Aoust.s before going TO the salon,
and Friday morning saw at the Ermitage
two or three of the stunnfngest gowns 1t Is
possible to imagine. One worn by an
American girl who has been making rather
a sensation lately by reason of her beauty
and audacity. was of the new cloth that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28

superfuous. Very likely all the time they
are neglecting home duties. Doe ye next
thyng' is good motto for most of u.s. The
Jellyby children were falling down stairs
and crying for bread, their father and their
eldest sister were at their wits end while
Mrs. Jellyby remained absorbed in her sew
eral schemes of benevolence.
She was a person who had no sense OF
proportion.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28

One cant go far aniss in the choice of
trimmings for gowns TO be worn the rest OF
the season Lace embroideries and ap-
pliques for house gowns, and braids, velvet,
fur and strappings for street and carriage
wear are all smart. 1t should always be
borne in mind by the woman who wishes
to be gowned in good taste that she should,
if the number of her gowns be limited,
avoid gay coors and conspicuous patterns
or styles The writer can usually place a
woman as to the part of the city in which
she lives by the color and cut of her gown
while shopping, walking at informal af-
fairs.
The fashionable woman who dresses
smartiy wears subdued or rich dark colors,
plain as to trimming and severe as to model,
when shopping or walking. although 1t Is
possible for her to be seen in u shop on a
flying call to order something in a gown
that is handsome and also conspicuous
The brilliant reds and blues, and almost
equally vivid mauves, are reserved for very
young. girls for street wear. Dark green's,
blues. browns plums, grays and black are
always worn and always look well, and
when a woman is compelled to wear the
with a view to securing a costume that will
not he conspicuous in its latter days
A word may again be said about ermine.
This fur is essentially a dress fur and is not
in good taste when worn wit. walking cos
tune For carriage robes ana in the after
noon and for evening wear 1t is decidedly
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-01-28

automobile show and from morn
ing until night one hears nothing
but petrol prattling." This Is
The Eureka sentinel. [volume] (Eureka, Nev.) 1902-current, 1906-09-22
ACCUSED MAN DEFIES SHERIFF
Charged With Murder, He Demands
Proof Be Shown

Newton Crumley. q business man Of
Tonopah, has demanded that Sheriff
Thomas Mcmahon either produce proof
that Crumley killed Ste Sart Burney
aud Tom keenan,, who were murdered
recently ON the outskirts Of the camp.
or else retract his statements to the
effect that Crumley is guilty Of the
crime.
"For some time McMahon has been
openly charging me with this crime"
said Crumley. 'In the presence of
responsible witnesses he says that he
possesses evidence that will convict me.
but that out of sympathy for me
aud my family he does not wish to act.
l have $500 which I will pay over to
Mcmahon when he produces this proof
or obtains my conviction. AS an officer
he should act. II am guilty I should
suffer"
Crumley SCOTS at the alleged state
ments of the Sheriff, and says that he
is innocent of the remotest part in the
crime.
The Eureka sentinel. [volume] (Eureka, Nev.) 1902-current, 1906-09-22
Sues McMahon for $50, 600

Suit has been filed in the Nye County
District Court by Newton Crumley
against Thomas Mcmahon, the Sheriff
of the county. demanding $50. 900 dam
ages. The damages are demanded a.
the result of the showing Of q letter. Sc
it is alleged. by Mcmahon to several
people, the letter stating that the an.
thor had information and was willing
to make affidavit hat Crumley was the
man that murdered Stewart Burnie
and Smith. Crumley demanded to
know the author of the letter and also a
public retraction. but instead, SO it is
alleged. the official Published an ar
ticle in a local paper stating that he had
an affidavit, etc., from a citizen as to
Crumley's alleged connection with the
murder.