The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-11-01
THE FASHIONS

ClOeks.
 At a recent exhibition of Paris pat tern dresses it was interesting to ob- serve the trend of fashion. The first thing noticed was the great variety of styles with very little that was dis tinctly of any one period Very few Empire or even Princess, costumes were shown, but the influence of these two decided was everywhere felt. One could not fail to notice that most of the full skirts were cut with a seam down the centre of the front; that all the sleeves were short or medium length that overskirts are apparently coming in; that great deal of exquisite em- broidery and ingenious combinations of lace and embroidery in extrava- gantly beautiful designs are employed; that drapery effect are as yet sparingly used, but when employed are generally successful; that epaulets in a number of disguised shapes and materials are extensively employed to give the long shoulder effect
 A beautiful costume was made of a pale pastel green, not the tiresome eau de Nil, but 8 shade that just suggest ed the depth of the ocean seen through 8 thin mist--very faint, very delicate, very beautiful. The cloth was dull, with never a glint of sheen, and the skirt was cut with long pointed over skirt, sweeping into a demitrain in the back. IA narrow pointed yoke of lace was edged with an inch wide fold of naauve chiffon, which also ran around the top of the collar, giving dash of color to the gown The sleeves were quite short, of draped chiffon to match, and had bands of the renaissance lace.
 A charming evening dress was a pale blue chiffon with four folds of blue satin of the same shade around the skirt. Below the last straight laid-on fold, which was about a foot from the bottom of the skirt in front, was q fold put on in long scallops with crossed ends. Each of these points was finished with a small silk-covered button, en- broidered with a black motif The bodice had a yoke and vest of Princess lace, which was crossed by two narrow black satin straps, with buttons. The draped chiffon sleeves had turned back cuffs at the elbow of the lace, which was of a beautiful design. A wide folded girdle of satin finished this dainty confection.
 Another mousseline gown of palest gray was trimmed with bias bands of cloth in graduated widths from the top of the skirt to very near the bottom, which was finished with a fiounce of lace.
 The striped velvets and veloutina are very beautiful. An exquisite material of finest voile, with three-quarter- inch wide stripe of velvet, comes in several lovely shades; violet merging on plum, a bronze green taupe, fawn, and rich blue are some of the best colors
 A handsome brocade, quite rich enough to stand alone, was in a new shop window the other day. The de- sign was classical-a pattern of sheaf of lilies in gold on a cream background, and a gold Greek-key pattern formed a border. What a beautiful gown it would make for the typical Gibson girl with her classic form and facel
 Yet there is a great demand this winter for soft silks to carry out the draped and folded effects, Marguerite, silk voile,- satin-fnished crepe, messa lines with small figure, lovely bor- dered chiffons, and gauges. These all hang well in the artistic manner re- quired by present fashions.
 Evening coats and wraps are nearly all made with sleeves. There is no tremendous variety about them They are nearly all three-quarter length. either plaited or cut circular, so as to fall in ample folds, and almost always have a handsome lace or fur collar or yoke.
 A very striking cloak was of biscuit cloth with full elbow sleeve caught in to cuff of applique lace and a velvet gathered frill about two inches in width. The coat was very full, box plaited doubly in the back and falling into graceful folds A waistcoast of the cloth peeped betwen the two sides of wide fold of velvet, which went around the neck in scarf fashion and disappeared into slits in front about at the waist line. Large gilt cabuchon buttons stood sentinel at these sits, and at the top of the walstcoat, which was adorned with more applique and tassels. Around the bottom of the wraps were large, graceful bowknots applique in velvet.
 Another exquisite coat was of blue panne velvet, in delicate evening shade, trimmed from top to bottom with lad ders of blue satin, folded crosswise, and edged with twisted satin, puffed and folded. There were two of these stripes in front and two in the back. The cuffs were of the same trimming, and there was also a beautiful yoke of Irish crochet and white satin lining.
 handsome coat was in pale pink panne, with odd elbow sleeves. They were draped in folds, running up from the center, where they opened to show a lace undersleeve. The edges were bordered by a box-plaited velvet ruche about an inch and a half wide. There was the usual lace collar but of an un usual shape on this garment
 A simpler coat was in pale blue broad-cToth, with strapplngs of itself, and full collar of gray fox.
 It is said that more coats in black and white, tan and gray, will be worn than in pinlas and blues and coors, but as yet one sees a good many of these light -colored coats.
 A beauty in white chiffon had quanti- ties of priceless Irish crochet forming long collar, wide cuffs and waistcoat. The lining was of an exquisite brocade in white and ooId