Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-28
Beautiful Jewe1ry for
Those In Mourning

TT Is perhaps only the women that wear
mourning who fully realize the rigorous
change which must then be made in
their jewelry as well In the details Of
their gowning. Once, however. the atten-
ton is quickened toward mourning jew
elry, it is surprising how numerous and
beautiful the ornaments from which
selection may be made.
Invariably, with the present styles OF
dressing, a brooch is used for day time
wear. In the evening, however, it's place
perchance is taken by a pretty little dam
gler or locket of some sort.
The daintiest mourning brooches for
young women made in floral designs.
They are of gold, entirely covered with dull
black enamel, and are lghtened with tiny
chips of diamonds. The wild rose design is
particularly attractive when its petals are
turned over a little and outlined with dia-
monds, and the stamens and pistil of the
center are also tipped with sparkling chips.
Violets and pansies either with the rose
diamonds or entirely covered with dull
black enamel, are also appropriate to wear
during the first six months of deep mourn
ing. Without the stones, such brooches cost
from $I5 to $1s, while with the diamonds
they vary in prices from $50 upward, ac-
cordng to the number and quality of the
stones 1t Is quite possible, however, to
have stones that have formerly been used
in gay bits of jewelry set in the plain black
brooches. The cost of having this done in a
moderate way is about So.
A few women, even while wearing crepe,
choose double violet" brooch, enameled
with deep purple and showing as drop
of dew at its side one good-szed diamond.
Others adhere closely to the black enam-
eled double voets.
Lockets are again much worn by those in
mourning, taking fashionable precedence
over bangles. Usually they hang from an
almost imperceptible neck chain to about
fifteen inches below the collar. The black
enamel with which they are covered is
more often of glossy than dull finish and
it is regarded as smart to have the wear
ers initials marked on 1t with small dia-
monds. A late wrinkle, moreover, is to
have these lockets heart shaped in outline
and astonishingly large. Some are seen fully
three inches in diameter
Mourning jewelry perhaps more than any
other, is chosen with regard to sentiment.
These lockets, therefore, have been espe-
cially designed to hold photographs and
miniatures. Heavy black bracelets are in
favor with those wearing mourning. They
may be either enameled on gold or else of
cut onyx Sometimes wealthy women have
dangling from them on a short chain
single diamond of considerable size and
value. Often mysterious effect Is pro-
duced by the stone as its light flashes from
the depth of a black gowns folds. That 1t
is there Is a certainty but Its ralson etre
Diamonds set in platinum are quite In
good form for wearing in even the deepest
mourning. Sentiment and common sense,
however need not be lost sight of in dom
ming mourning jewelry. Women whose cos
tunes are indicative of grief should never
ornament themselves profusely.
The old and quaint idea of wearing the
hair of relative in a bit of jewelry IS
again in vogue. For doing the most
charming device is the crystal heart. 1t is
made of beveled crystal set in platinum
and surrounded with from thirteen to fif-
teen medium-sized diamonds On the I'M
derside of the crystal the initials or coat
of arms of the wearer should be done in
silver At the very back is placed the lock
of hair This is laid in loosely. 1t is never
braided woven, as in years gone by.
In imitation jewelry there is little that Is
truly attractive for those In mourning.
There are, however, many ways of wear
ing dull beads and jets. A novelty that IS
suitable for many occasions is composed
of three ropes of fine black beads. The
shortest of these ropes fits singly about the
base of the collar while the other two
fall lower on the chest. At the back of the
neck they are tied with small bow or
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