davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21
A ailored Skirt.

to you again for advice. have a tailormade skirt
like sample and would like your advice in regard to
material and making Of waist to wear with it. II
around the bottom, and is sweep length Do YOU
think it needs remodelingq I want this for church
wear. My measurements are Bust 35 inches, waist
"a inches, and hips SO inches height feet 5h inches
I have brown hair blue gray eyes with little brown
around the pupils, and fair complexion Would twenty
two inches around the top Of sleeve at widest point
inch cuff the material to be used is taetaq Thank
ing you in advance, t remain, Mrs H. 3. II.
Minnesota. !. @@..-. H. = .~-..
am glad to have been of assistance to you, and
in regard to the skirt do not see that it needs re-
modelling at ALL for the pleats about the bottom are
as popular as ever, and trimming much used this
bias folds the stitching of the hem and up the
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21

II, BUT I'm glad mother dearest, that you
gave me the list-habit Eleanor Roberts
keeps bag already packed for just such
little trips but should think she ID forget half the
time, to that things replenished. As for me,
when that blessed Margaret asks me down for those
perfectly splendid weekend houseparties Of hers,
just go to my desk, produce my list, and then I'm
quite sure not to 60 off without my shoehorn to
find myself stranded in evening gown with nothing
but heavy, dumping boots to wear with it, A list
Of the things you III need and last look over both it
and your bag, is wonderful stitch in time mother
mine. That's sense, if it ism It English.
sAnd I'm glad (isnt this admiration society grow
ing rather onesideda Please don't forget to say
nice things about when stop for bfeathD I'm glad
that YOU We always insisted that should have
suit perfect order-the old minute men weren It
bit more ready than 1 am.
edo you like my skirtF And don't you simply
adore these new circular models with the seam down
the 'front.' No. Of course you don 't-thats just my
extravagant speech, but your frugal soul ought to
rejoice wildly at the idea Of my having two skirts
plain and this piaid-to one jacket 1t really does
give lots more change. ~
And my tie-isn It it dear, if it is the tiniest
fourth hand you ever saws It's only an inch and
half wide, and was nightly tempted to lose that
extra half-inch. What a time had matching my
coat! But ia have gone bare-necked sooner than
have the color shade off .s ...-s'
tsAs you won It admire me, shall stop telling you
what model mother YOU are land the dearest chum
into the bargain) and talk of my charms, for
I've lost my heart to the particular shade of tan
that my gloves and shoes are[ regular SYM
phony Of browns!
ct tell you, I've come to the conclusion In my
long and checkered (dd you know it was that,
mother) that the whole secret Of being well dressed
lies in having something for every OCCASION and that
something ready to be put lin its place is,
on. And that the best time a whole lot better it
you feel fit AS for you, you always do look fit
(oh, DEAR I'm lapsing into admiration agan), from
the topnost tip Of your hat to the very soes Of
shoes, especially when you wear gray
ssNow FOR the train-isn't it comfort to have
your tickets ahead, and your checking done
fortably the day before you go9'
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21

Would not the velvet shoulder cape for one OF
the little bolero capesf These are SO handy for slip
ping the shoulders when coat is possibly little
on and let person slash from lower edge on the
upper part Of the nearly to arnahole then again
either side Of this slashing some distance away
the other sashings effect sleeves, with strappngs
until the little garment fits The sashing on the top
of the arm will remain open, when the sleeves will
around the neck down fronts is pretty finish,
you might use the gimp removed from the peau do
sole skirt for trimming oil edges freely For autumn
some afternoon lite s street toilet. Falling sbs should
make fancy muff and cover hat frame with the
velvet combining little fur. Patterns Of lnus may
be bought and are not at all difficult to follow.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21
L HINTS FOR HOME DRESSMAKERS
Elizabeth Lee Counsels with Many Anxiou. lnqurers
About What They Shall Wear and How Best to Make It.

should make It fairly full taking 1t into the waist
with gathers, then make group Of pleats above the
knees and another below, Inserting between these
band Of the red lace and the silk p1eating that ID Il
| rightly understand the trimming, band Of lace
edged with The pleating
Il regard to the waist fitted lining is necessary
at first On this is laid the yoke and also the deep
cuffs or the whole sleeves the may be- If these
are to be entirely Of the yoke material. NY idea
would be to have the yoke and sleeves Of the plaid
the low-cut bodice Of cashmere meeting il with
band Of the lace and peated silk the f1ness brought
into deep girde Of the plaid silk. Close the gifdle
with little black velvet bows drawn thru small gold
buckles and if liked, decorate the front Of the yoke
with ladder Of the same. The silk sleeves will be in
three-pu STYLE very full at the top and draped
these will be sleeves Of the cashmere, sashed the
top Of the arm and edged with the lace Draw the
drapery up to the armhole and hold there with
bow Of black velvet. These will be very picturesque
and very becoming to your slender form. Allow the
puffs to show thru the sashings freely and in fact
make the shoulder fluffy looking possible. The
all black hat will be entirely in good taste, and
broad, fat mushroom shape will be the most becoming
that you wear. They are, moreover, strictly up
to-date. ..T.. $50.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21
A Schoolgirls Questions.

Dear Miss Lee: am young girl, Is years old, s
feet inches tall; waist measure 20 inches I have
light complexion, light blue eyes, and hair Of reddish
tint. Gould wear plaid gown Of thin cloth for
school dress In California; IF 50, how should it be
madei How shall make black brilliantine skirt
for commons Will long coats be worn this winter,
and will gray be worn would some other color be
better9 .s -- -....s Schoolgirl.
You wear plaid IL you will choose it in green's
with dark invisible blue and dash OF pale yellow
about it, and will find it suitable If Of very light
weight for school wear in California. Have it made
with fourgored skirt, each gore suggesting double
box pleat, the bottom finished with q hem, and the
waist in Peter Pan style, with white collar and cuffs
and black tie and belt as finish. This suggests
smart frock and the black briiantne made in seven
gored style with box pleat down each stitched
TO well below the hips then pressed to the hem, is
thoroly practical model and one becoming to you:
Gray will be very much worn this season, while for
children and misses chinchilla is exceedingly fash
ionable. A lovely long coat-imported- box style
is Of heavy chincha in dove gray the collars and cuffs
of coat sleeves being Of the deepest richest cardinal
velvet.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21
Two Black Skirts.

Dear Miss Lee: May I ask bit Of your helpful
advce7 I have two black skirts, not worn but out
of-date. One is a voile like sample, plain
gored skirt laid in shallow paits the other is peau
de soie circular top with flare fonnce, trimmed hori
zontally with groups of folds headed with gimp all
the way up. When these ripped off, the rows Of
machine stitching and also chalk lines make serious
trouble. Can you suggest a way to combine the two
into good skirt9 I As years Of age height
feet inches waist 26 inches hips AZ inches. Also,
is there any use I could make of good black velvet
in shoulder cape7 Mrs g.
Ltchfeld, MIMI
1t seems to the easier and most effective way
would be to remove the folds from the SKIRT which
l take to be of the material the skirt, peau
de sole, and replace in the same way, but on the
wolfe skirt this time but not using the gimp again
Then, after removing the chalk marks with little
naptha gasoene, the skirt as it is for a drop
skirt for the wolfe, lining the hounce with stiff
lawn and cordng with featherbone around the bottom
setting the skirt we'll out around the feet. forgot
to say that should release the peats of the wolfe
skirt and SO give fuller effect then gather into the
belt This will be handsome, up-to-date skirt. If
however, you provided with drop skirt for the
gown there is the suggestion of making blouse or
jumper, from the skirt and SO completing whole
gown Perhaps you would like to think it over
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21
Colors and Styles.

Dear Miss Lee: have been planning getting
suit. Ny height is feet inches bust ~ inches,
waist SO inches hips 4s inches Ny hair is dark, my
eyes are dark grey. have considerable color in my
face. What colors I wear successfully and how
can have my suit madei A Reader.
Kenyon.
You can wear all shades Of gray, also light and
dark blue, pink golden brown, tan, yellow old rose
pepper and SALT salmon and coral pinks in pale Shades
cream lemon and ivory white Black, too, should be
becoming.
should choose navy blue smooth cloth, and have
it made with seven-gored skirt each gore showing
double box ple.t, inverted, let in at founce depth
and thoroy pressed. Each group headed with painted
tab Of the goods held down with small buttons brass
or smoked pearl, as fancy dictates.
The coat, short pony, just reaching the line Of the
hips made semfttng by Of inverted box pleats
from each shoulder back and front, these held down
at the waistne with the little tabs and buttons Have
collar and vest Of navy blue velvet of broadcoth
in pale green mode ivory trimming their outer
edge with few rows of black soutache, and little
gold also, if you like it, closing with buttons you
have chosen. The sleeves should be In conventional
box syle ending in cuffs matching the collar. As
fnish should like white felt hat trimmed with black
velvet and black wings, because know it would be
such becoming finish to your smart suit apparently
adding height, which you need, 30 please don It wear
dark hat anyway, unless you trim it with white or
light color. black and white hat, however, is always
useful 1t be with almost or quite every
pown.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21
A Confirmation Dress.

Dear Miss Lee: Youas seem to help every one, SO
perhaps you could help me- / want confirmation
dress that could wear for both fall and winter and
do not know what to get nor how to make it. Would
you please make *, suggestionf How long shall wear
my dressesY What style and color is most becoming to
me? feet inches tall weight 119 pounds:
waist % inches bust, "a inches; hips So; have light
hair which wish you would tell how to arrange 50
it would be more becoming; blue eyes; very fair COM
plexion, with touch Of pink my cheeks; rather
round face; medium high forehead. II. o.
Avery fine white serge could be worn during tbs
winter that is about the best kind of material can
think Of it must be white, suppose. Have seven
gored skirt with box pleat,o each seam to below
hips stitching their edges with silk terminating in
graduated widths. Make the waist With d fiat rouni
yoke Of the SERGE covered with Of the braid add
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21
For MANY Occasions.

Dear Miss Lee: | am about to get goods for
fall and winter Dress and it is to be rich red Will
you read this description and help with sugges-
tions7 am 81, but do not look that old; light,
feet inches dark brown hair blue eyes, with fairly
good complexion, tho not much color; bust is
80 inches, waist about 90 inches, and hips 49, I am
not tall but extremely thin, and quite long WASTED.
Weigh about 100.
intend getting cashmere, with yoke Of pretty
plaid silk How could I use lace, same color
dress, and silk pleated waist and seeves9 Could
tuck the sleeves way with cuff Of silk with lace
frill and pleatsf Should long cuff be Of plaid of
goodsq Should the skirt be tucked hips and be
trimmed simply with three deep folds of the goods
distance apart should use the silk pleatng
way7 Should belt be of goods and girdle form9
Ny form will not admit Of princesse, tho like them
on those Of beautiful form.
This must be dress for many occasions, and /
want il Stylish but not too expensive. Should get
black hat for besta Ny long furlined coat is
black broadcloth. always wanted large black hat.
Would a broad one be most becoming, and nearly
straight-rnmeda Pardon my lengthy letter, and
thanking YOU in advance. "A Working Girl
Minneapolis
From your letter gather that you have excellent
taste, SO your toilet will be asuccess. The
red cashmere is good choice, but think if q were
YOU should make Jumper waist, else give d
jumper effect the waist Taking the skirt first,
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21
THE NEWEST KIND OF METEOR *:.
Evening copyrgh

sides Of the kick pleats, meeting In point at the
top of each.
- AS to a waist, should have pretty Scotch plaid
sk-these are just the rage in New York-cut on
the bias, and yoke formed of pin tucks in groups
You could choose just navy and white broken plaid
or any of the Scotch tartans just you prefer If
nice, coy waist, while briiantine is, every one
knows, most serviceable The ground may be navy
blue with figure or stripe Of white Again, if you
like the combination, there is the suggestion Of 4
nuns yelling in pale reseda. The model should not be
too elaborate just yoke Of small tucks or small box
pleats and bishop sleeves gathered into cuffs. neat
lace stock will be the fnish and tiny brass buttons
will be smart trimming either of the materials
mentioned IF you are to wear the waist having the
twenty woinch wide sleeve it will not be found to be
too full Us you quite slight; stouter figure might
find it less becoming. =
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21


your gloves and belt brown and your waist thin
French flannel in creams and browns plainly tailored
This is for best wear. The gray brantine dress and
coat for second, then you WIN want couple of school
frocks and hat, the plaid coat completing the toilet
# you could brighten up che gray frock with pretty
pink OF lowered belt ana add pretty lace collar per-
haps piped with pink, It should come in we'll for after
noon and visiting. *.E-2
Fur school, one Of the thin, lightweight shadow
pllaids may be bought and made up into peated
skirt and Peter Pan waist with collar, cuffs and
pocket flap Of velvet, the preaoinating color il the
paid the second frock Of bite serge in conventional
sailor style, with white flannel shield and dark red tie
and belt Both dresses will be smart in good taste,
and up-todate.5 A navy blue felt hat trimmed with
navy blue ribbon, would be good choice for school
hat and would well with almost any color frock OF
coat s.... z- :
If you want party dress, have wolfe or
nun yelling made in princesse style, the material
gathered to tit the waistine and the skirt decorated
with groups of tucks finished with hem the top Of
the gown supported by yoke IF aover lace and tied
to the shoulders with pale blue velvet ribbons Tie
puff sleeves to the arms with velvet the same shade
and finish with blue hair ribbon. Pale pink velvet
OF lowered ribbon may be substituted if preferred to
the blue. White stockings, slippers and gloves.
4ou will not need more garments as you will be
growing now, and too many clothes are a mistake
when they are likely to become outgrown.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21
A Lou lisiana Reader.

~ AR MISS LE3G I would like your advice as
4 " to how 7 shalt dress. Ia years old, 5 feet
- Inches tall, waist 20 inches, hips 80 inches.
have auburn hair grayblue eyes, fair complexion,
except for few fire. ckles. How would you advise
to have winter suit for school made7 And what
colors should I wear How should fix my hair for
thin faces PLEASE give length Of dresses should
wear. Thanking yo'l in advance, Kathleen.
49, Shreveport, La.
You will become the princess styles in frocks also
sailor and Russian modes, empire and pony coats and
medium sized hats, In regard to colors your most
successful greens and navy blues. Gray will be-
come you and viii the puppies, dull army blue dull
black, milk white, ve,y pale lemon, dark brown, cream
attempted Wear your dresses almost to your shoe
tops and fluff your hair widely possible around
the face taking it no the back and tying there with
a broad ribbon. The invisible check, stripes and
paids tn In the plain materials for winter
SUITS and you may Moose Of the mentioned colors
For school thu mixtures servceabe
than the plain clotl IS, which show every soil. The
mixed material will require no trimming plain goods
being finished with 8, couple of self folds, with
rows Of braid. A waist of French flannel or nuns
yelling will complete the dress. The coat can be Of
the same material he skirt or in the event of
mixture being bought then coat Of solid color
the prevailing shade in the mixture may be preferred
A box style made quite long, with two capes
the shoulders in the ba e developing into long stole
ends in the 'front.' to the edge Of the coat
be piped or be trimmed their edges with narrow
trimming. The coat closes doublebreasted invisibly
and has a mans collar and small revers Of velvet.
The sleeves are roomy ccat shape ending in velvet
cuffs and the commodio,ls pockets show flap of the
velvet ALSO Brass buttons trim cuffs and pocket flap.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21
The Angelic Hello Girl.

II YOU want to be a hello girl you must:
Be over II years old.
Be under 27.
Be in perfect health.
Be neat in appearance and dress.
Be of good character.
Be earnest, industrious and studious.
Have clear head and active brain.
Have an accurate and quick eye.
L Have acute hearing
Have clear voice and perfect articulation.
Have nimble fingers that never tire.
Have pleasing manners and infinite patience
Have education equal to that of the public sehosa
eighth grade.
Have no foreign accent.
Have many Of the other qualifications supposed .
be possessed only by the angels.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21

ing full lower portion box peated to match skirt for
few inches and bring into pretty belt Of white kid
or silk closed with d mother-of-pearl buckle. Tho
sleeves should be full puffs ending In deep cuffs
the result should be pretty practical and girlish
frock. You can black, white, purple, mauve,
green dark and light blues pale pink, crimson, brown
and heotrope.
Part your hair and draw 1t back softly at the Sides
rolling you do SOL then braid and tie with ribbon N
the nape of the neck. r.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21
A Rer1odeled Silk.

Ny Dear Miss Lee: You have given such helpful
advice to SO many would you please help met have
black silk dress, like sample that should like to
remodel The skirt is seven-gored with three tucks
down the front to founce depth and three folds
at the bottom I know 1T do much with 1t, as il
shows where it has been sewed, but the skirt is
long that will have to trim off little and the lower
fold is worn the edge Shall I put the two folds
back or what can I trim it withf The waist il
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21

from being ugly. Hair always darkens as one grows
washing. You are dressing it ii coronet style. You
can wear blush and pale rose pink, also dark red,
green mauve Alice and navy blue, old rose, blue
croam. No pale blues, fawns or pale tans. Certainly
you have not asked too much. Your questions were
pleasure tr@-E
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21

mace WITH a round yoke
Of the same, covered
with black allover lace,
and a round bertha; the
sleeves are plain shirt
waist, full at the bot
tom, with a narrow
cuff, and they are SO
tight at the top that
they tore. I suppose I
will have to get more
goods FOR new sleeves,
or would I just have to
get new for the puff and
use the old sleeves for a
wide cuff What can I
do with the yoke, and
could 7 put anything
around it In the place Of
the berthas What kind
Of a belt should I wear
with it9 I am 20 years,
height s feet 6 inches,
bust SO, waist 26; hips
AZ. Also what colors can
I wearf My hair is like
sample, eyes are gray
ish-blue, quite rosy
cheeks. Please answer
as soon as possible and
greatly oblige.
M. B.
Renville, MINI.
+
The sample Of silk Is
so handsome that, I
should feel inclined to
spend a little time and
money both on it's re-
modelling. Having short
ened and repaired the
skirt, the folds being
removed, I should retrim
with two bands of black
lace banding, rather
heavy, and about two
inches wide, cutting the
folds in two and then
using them as narrow
folds to outline the
bands of lace. If you
can get enough from
the three folds, edge tho
bands with tiny frills
instead of straight flat
folds, cutting the folds
in two exactly the same
way, hemming one edge
and gathering the other.
In regard to the waist,
rip the sleeves emit rely
first. Line the black
lace yoke with pale
green silk and outline
with a bias band of the
black silk edged with
little frills of pale green
ribbon and bring into a
wide pale green belt.
Have full lace sleeves
three-quarter length,
lined with green and
finished in cuffs match
Ing the outline to yoke.
sleeves make slashed ca
the lace puffs without
ing these suggestions, tn
to-date gown. White or
the green if liked bette
being chosen, then a be
be better than the white.
cream, pale pink, pale a
green, mauve, blue gray,
warm gray, old rose ant
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21

~ -
hips, weight SO pounds;
have blue-gray eyes,
light brown hair, red
lips and cheeks and very
clear complexion. I do
not know what to have
for best wear this fall.
I have yards Of inclosed
sample that I don't
know Whist to make Of.
Will you please help met
Will you also tell me
how many waists and
dresses I need, also col
or and materials To be-
gin with, the only thing
I have that could be
pressed INTO service is. a
gray brilliantine shirt
waist suit with a seven
gored box-pleated skirt
and q box-pleated waist
to match, and a long,
loose coat Of FRAY and
black plaid. Please ad.:
wise also as to hat;
gloves and belt to wear,
and when / could wear
the shirtwaist suit.
Ruth s.
i.
The sample OF pretty
woodbloom serge will
make up into q smart
walking suit. Have q
five-gored skirt with a
box pleat on each seam
and trim the bottom
with two rows Of fat
brown braid running up
in tabs when they reach
the front width. Point
the ends and hold down
with velvet buttons.
Make the coat in pony
style, with seams from
the shoulders covered
with braid, then strap
in a fiat collar and mar
row vest with the braid
also. For this, use
brown velvet or white
broadcloth, and II the
former, decorate the
vest with small, bright,
fat brass buttons. IF
the latter, use small
brown velvet buttons
and add a 4. couple Of
rows Of brown soutache
braid to the outer edge
of collar and vest. The
sleeves will be coat
shaped, ending in cuffs
matching the collar, and
your hat should be white
felt trimmed with
brown velvet and brown
tips or handsome brown
and cream plaid ribbon
set off with a brown,
jaunty looking quill ;
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21
Becoming Colors.

Dear Miss Lee: Will you please tell me what colors
can wearf am IA years old, feet Ia inches tall,
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1906-10-21
A WEEKEND VISIT

~ II, BUT I'm glad, mother dearest, that you
gave me the ist-habiti Eleanor Roberts
keeps bag already packed for just such