Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-23

-usT as soon as the first cold day
comes toward the end of summer
do the cloth costumes appear IheS
may have been made up some Tune
before but the well-gowned woman
makes n point always OF having 'hti'
ready for this change of weather. Kho"
ing that by so doing she Will look much
more smartly gowned than any OF mex
less careful sisters. The first colo DAYS
of autumn are the most trying, almost,
from a becoming point of view, OF any
In the year The summer gown, whlfh
has looked very smart and trim uhsH
now suddenly looks shabby, Is uhpeconh-
Ing and has completely lost any appedr-
ance of style while If the temperature
fall low enough really to insure cold
dav the wearer of said gown Will LOON
ANYTHING but well, and it Will be nara
20 recognize in her the smartly go"reu
individual whose clothes have mace her
the envy of her sex.
These first autumn cloth gowns that
are seen are not at all eiapoldte' ~
rights they should be rather severe. OF,
the so-cailed tailor order, and shoulu
QUE their beauty and attracuVeneS3
rather to the general cut and erect thdn
10 any elaborate detail or to much tr,
ring OF course, there Is this dlncultE
present that all fashions seem TO call lot
q Iot of trimming and a most elaborate
.tyle of trimming. SIX bands are no longer
put on plain. but are tucked or piea.eu oa
sntbered or II by chance left plain are
Srnamented with quantities OF french KNOTS
or have bits of lace inserted In theia oI
heads sewed on them. All this is not III
Ieeninp with the really smart tallor gown
~ witb the cloth gown that should make
Its appearance at this time or year I1oM
ever fashion has decreed that IL is an
right and consequently the woman WY ~ nc &c
nnrchased such a costume feels that she Is
ppt,irad as she should be. while the woman
Who has made study OF clothes ahu mel
own special style goes out triumphan.S II
. severely plain cioth; seIee VI ,ooSsd bette
fuue. knowing that she never lookeo pe''e
rhe old war is raging In full force agali
snent the question of long or shon. sri sri !
7, :. absolutely silly to have such materiai
&C cheyiot rough cloth or serge. ihtehue
for useful ordinary wear, mace up VIZ US
Grained skirt, and yet from Parls CONT - my ?
same long skirts, sweeping on the sroui t
touching all around sides and BACK; qul.
impossible to hold up graeefuilyItha. y
by any American woman: Even III 80
great effort is being made 10 nav s 90
same skirts cut short, ana theLe aie sc e.
that this fashion may be put through an
that women will be sensible enough 10 Ia az y
a skirt intended for a walking sklrt hiau
abort enough to clear the ground apsolutei.
Sitbon, any danger of its touching. III
fashioning Of a short skirt so that IL hahe
well and fits well is a difficult art, ana II
for this reason that dressmaker , are no, no,,I
much in favor OF the short skirt as "ou
be expected. 1t is difficult, unless d wins nI,
have an uncommonly good inquire anu n ,n
herself remarkably well. to make sho
skirt becoming especially If she De at q
stout The lines must be carefully stuoie
the fullness of the material must oe piac,
right and the lines of trimming. If there
any trimming. must needs be long and
the same time follow the figure Use
Dressmakers often get ahead OF TINS oii
c,,ltv of putting on fiat trimmings of q
material itself or OF braid that seem 10
in direct contradiction to the lines or I
skirt. They may not be so in reaiity,
at all events they carry out the lines q
sired and the effect is good.
AT the moment fashion seems to be rain
more in favor of stripes than of the chec
and plaids that have been fashionaoie
chey,ot and tweed gowns are extremely
fractive made In this design. There ha
been seen all summer these costumes In !
0annels, the white with hair line OF pia