The San Francisco call., 1906-07-01
Black straw With Rose and ForQet-MeNot
Wreath.

Ito have so much trimming, and yet
is sin ngularly attractive.
The once popular sailor is back again
in favor, and in so mucn favor that the
danger is that it will be short lived. At
the moment it is worn quite plain,
made of rough straw. with medium
sized crown and wide brim. such as
has been fashionable as a riding hat
for the last two or three seasons.
Then there is one kind of sailor hat
trimmed with band of ribbon around
the crown and a large ribbon rosette at
the side, through which are stuck two
quills This is so easy of imitation
that the style is sure to be done TO
death in short time: but the lines
are good, IL is generally becoming, and
after all il is far more worthy of imi-
tation than the terribly conspicuous
! and eccentric shapes that have over
whelmed the country. At the moment
there is another style C sailor making
its appearance. of closely woven straw
with quite wide brim, a small. rather
high crown and large rosette of rib
bon with colored wings. soft pompon OF
feathers or a spray of flowers II is
attractive with a short waist gown or
with simple morning gown. and
looks well also with the linen costumes
that are so extremely popular.
3 1t is a question whether flowers or
/
the moment. With the outcry against
the wearing of aigrcttes they will un-
doubtedly go out of fashion; in fact,
| they viii have to, but ostrich feathers
and marabout apparently do not come
under the same rigid law and in the
meantime il will be perfectly safe to
go on wearing them and simply not
buy any more. The light colored hats
trimmed with tulle and ostrich plumes
/ and made of chip or very fine straw
are charming with the light and dainty
summer frocks. and the small hats with
| hard lines are made much more becom-
| ing when tulle and soft feathers are
alone are chosen. The woman who can
wear velvet against her face. and to
whom stiff effects are not unbecoming
can this season appear unusually dis
| tinctive and original in her dress: but
| when such styles are not becoming IL
is far better TO choose the trimmings
that are softer and which lend their
softness 10 the lines of ones features
| The very fine. oid-fashioned chip and
! Neapolitan straws are very attractive
made up in some of the small hats.
There is one shape that Is especially
good, apparently between a toque and
turban-it is of medium size, or what
might be called practical size. II has
low. round crown. around which is
wreath. of flowers or pleatings of
tulTe AZ the left side is bunch Of
ostrich tips. four in number. that fall
on the crown and also on the hair
at the back. This can be made in any
color. but is especially good in black
and pale gray or white.
And now come big hats, In size
there promises to be exaggeration. for
although at the beginning of any such
fashion the shapes and sizes seem just
right. as time goes on they are bound
| to increase and very soon become so
exaggerated as to be like caricatures
| of the original designs. At present
| they are charming-most graceful in
outline. and, while on the picture or
| der, they have at the same time much
smarter effects than picture hats often
possess. for the great trouble with a
| picture hat like the picture gown, Is
that it lacks style. and consequently
can only be attempted by the limited
| few. There is a hint of the Gainsbor-
/ ough in many of the new shapes-a de-
cided crown. wide brim that turns up
at the side, while the feathers. or.
rather. pIumes. that fall forward are
ell on the same order, and the masses
| of tulle inside the brim soften the
! face immensely and take the place Of
the masses OF hair that had to be worn
with the small hats. Be ii understood
/ however, that more hair than generally