The San Francisco call., 1906-04-15

hand-embroidered waists. Many go still
higher. for there is no limit to the vari-
ETY. possible with them The embroidery
is done by hand and it is customary 10
refer to them as handmade blouses. even
though the seams are machine stitched.
All Of the decoration is done by hand and
this makes a waist which is gorgeously
distinctive and beautiful
Fashions in waists seem to change from
week TO week, and well they may, for the
waists are so delicate that they need d
constant replenishing
The immediate fashion is for waist CT
blue embroidered in gray and in violet, all
the soft harmonious tones being repre-
sented.
A lovely waist Of pale blue was embroid-
cred in public and white wistaria, with a
great many blue and gray lights worked
into the embroidery. The waist buttoned
in the back and the embroidery had an
unbroken sweep in the front The whole
waist was a mass of it and the great pui,-
plish punches fairly reveled in their
caprice over the bust and front The
leaves reached right down to the belt line.
Embroidering Your Waist Front.
She who would have a nice waist may
purchase something handsome in the silk
waist line A good selection would be
shell pink peau de sole The waist should
be carefully fitted-in case it does not ex-
actly 1T when bought-and the utmost
attention should be paid to the neck and
sleeves, which should fit perfectly Now
for the embroidery.
In all the fancy work establishments
they mark shirt waist front for en-
broidery and the up-to-date shops show
some handsome patterns with great
flowers outlined by big green leaves.
The larger the pattern the better. And
in most cases the flowers are made life
size and worked in the natural colors.
Upon a shell-pink peau de cygne waist
or waist of pink satin. or one of peau
de sole, the favorite flower would be the
chrysanthemum, which should be marked
life-size and worked with the utmost
care. Three or four of the medium sized
flowers viii nearly cover the front of the
waist while the big trailing green leaves
and the long stems chase each other, so
TO speak, over the waist and then down
to the belt The back is tucked but not
embroidered.
Another favorite pattern is the Ameri-
can beauty rose which is embroidered in
a brilliant pink, or a deep red, upon the
front of the blue shirt waist and the
waist of dark red, also upon the white
and the black waist. A great latitude is
allowed by those who desire contrast
The waist is handsomely finished with a
shirred silk girdIe to match the tone of
the chrysanthemum flowers, or the
flowers can be in sharply contrasting
colors.
Other flowers, much used in the en-
broidery of the silk blouses of the sum-
mer, are the forget-me-nots, also the tiny
white conventional flowers Of the en-
broiderer, for which no one seems to have
a name, and there are countless gerani.
ums, violets, pansies and other small but
familiar flowers. The main idea is to
make the flowers life-size and to choose
as large flower as good taste Will allow.
The best pattern for the shirt waist is
that which is full in the front and open
in the back. This is the almost universal
style OF the lingerie blouse. The most de-
sirable of the imported models are very
full across the bust. though open in the
back. while the front is embroidered or
elaborately trimmed with lace and needle
work. embroidery and insertion.
The Empire Styles.
The waist that opens down the back