The San Francisco call., 1906-05-27

all. it is the modifying Of any marked
style that makes it possible for most
women.
At first the thin. gauzy nets and laces
and oil such fabrics were considered the
most desirable. but now all materials that
are soft and drape well are used. Crepe
de Chine and soft silk make up most
charmingly and are most popular one Of
the smartest models being a pale gray
crepe de chine fitting to perfection. 1t is
Empire in so far that there is no belt
back the train begins at the shoulders
under wide band of embroidery worked
on the material itself.
The Empire style as may be seen fur
nishes an exceptional opportunity for ths
display Of fine passementeries and en-
brolderies, and any number OF different
effects can be obtained simply by using
the different styles. 1t is thought more in
keeping with the fashion to have the
embroidery around the hem of the skirt
and IT the top Of the waist than in de-
signs. but. II so desired the embroidery
can be continued all over the gown. only
having it heavier across the waist and
around the hem.
/ When the Empire style first made it's
appearance it relegated almost ex-
cIusively to tea gowns. and it must be
] admitted that it does seem rather more
appropriate for that sort of gown than
for any other FOR it is decidedly on what
used to be considered the negligee order.
such as was best suited for home wear
But with the growth of it's popularity as
tssl gown and its graduation from a
bedroom wrapper to an Informal dinner
gown, the Empire style at once seemed
possible for many occasions on which
formerly IL would have been considered
quite impossible. At the present moment
/ IT. is used, as has been said, for smart
reception gowns. for dinner gowns. and.
Of course, always for tea gowns but as
the last il certainly is still the most con-
seryative choice. The figured nets and
laces are most charmingIy appropriate
| sor this model for the spring and sum-
me1, and in the Introduction of some
color In the Innings, trimmings and in the
soft folds across the bust that can be
made of velvet or silk there is CHARGE
to use some very becoming shade. over
pale pink or blue lining the pattern
of the lase net shows TO greatest ad-
I vantage, while the color in the folds
can either match the lining be several
shades deeper, whichever is the more
/ becoming. There has been an attempt
| made to introduce black velvet ribbon
with these light gowns. and in some
instances the effect has been very good,
and yet IL is not so smart and never
| so becoming as the color to match the
lining.
Economically minded people who begin
to count the cost after they have ordered
five or six gowns at the expense of no
less than $500 apiece are cOntending that
the c0lored Innings are very economical
and make il possible to have quite vari-
ETY. in ones wardrobe. This is accom-
plissed by having the overdress entirely
separate from the under. and a queer.
shapeless garment it is In those circum-
stances when viewed alone: but it is
rather odd TO see how entirely different
it looks with the different colOred lin
ings and the trimmings TO correspond.
Black lace or net or the black spangled
robes can be made up on this same plan
quite irrespective of the lining. and can
then be worn over black white or some
color that is the most becoming or effec-
4 tive.
1 The unlined princess gown of lingerie
and lace. that is now to be found every
where ready made and in every grade Of
material and workmanship. is in danger
of losing it's popularity in favor of the
Empire style made in the same way. that
| is, without lining. But the time has not
/ yet come for the latter fashion to take
precedence of the former. generally
speaking, and fortunately for the world
at large as the princess style is far bet
/ ter suited for most occasions. while the
/ Empire requires the most careful treat
/ ment not to look almost like a caricature.