The Washington times., 1906-08-05

Except for the short shoulder seam the
entire back is outlined by a band of
handmade crochet, Of the simnle old
fashioned kind. over an inch in width
A decorative design. over four inches IN
width is worked of thick linen crochet
tEread-almost like coTG-and is in a
very open pattern. Above the bottom
row OF crochet trimming the little linen
fronts are tucked IN pin tucSs up 10
nearly an inch above the crochet band.
This gives shape as well as effectiveness
10 the Jacket fronts Below the wide
crochet band is sewed deep shawl point
with a border OF six pin tucss, headed
by hemstitchlng and edged with a wide
border OF open crochet lace finished with
little crochet roses and balls covered
with tucked linen.
Above the shawl points the fronts
are bUrdered inside the lace edges by a
linen band. formed Of alternate hem
stitched tabs, pointed on the edges. and
puffed squares OF tucked linen.
In the back is a wide square collar Of
crochet, and in the front lspels of linen
that extend from the shoulder 10 the
point of the Y in front. These l-pels
are bOrdered with tabs and paffed
squares, rs along the front, Where the
collar meets the front edges II IS bOr-
deTed with nve lengthwiSe pin tucks
At the bottom Of the back the border
OF tabs and pum@ is repeated. while the
entire coat, including its armholeS and
collar. is edged with crochet roses and
balls covered with tucked linen. This
combination Of crochet roses and linen
balls makes very effective edging and
novel fringe.
The coat is without lining. except un-
der the wide crochet in the fronts.
where chiffon is seWed in 10 keep the
crochet i'm place.
, While this style Of coat is very smart.
expensive and all handmade. it may
readily be seen how a woman who can
make simple crochet can get up such
! coat at a very trihing cost by n aking
fl herself.
A Little Coat in Irish Linen.
a chic little coat of Irish linen is IL
Illustrated in figure c. tt has a square
collar across the back that follows the
outline OF the neck only half way
around the front. at which point it ex-
tends down the side. conceaIing a seam
and terminating in fancy point at the
bottom. This collar and the panel form
ed down the fronts are bordered by
rows of narrow embroidery in straight
and wavy lines. The rest is embroider-
ed in large floral patterns in raised and
( q. embroidery. The panels are crossed
I over their upper portions and above the
1 fancy points. by narrow embroidered
straps held in place by buttons. Small
geometrical patterns are outlined all
over the coat by embroidered cord ef-
fects, some of them made by the apDli-
cation Of an embroidered cord. which
comes like sOutache braid in width, and
which may be applied so as 10 look like
hand work.
The little gcOmetTiCal patterns are dec.
GRATED with chainstitChinE which twists
Ia tiny circles all along the chain. The
larger patterns are crossed by parallel
bars of linen lutestring or very narrow
tape. held down by thick stitches OF
merceriZed embroidery cotton. like tiny
crossing straps. This effect is wonder.
fully new and attractive. The neck is
cut quite deep in front with an almost
square effect in two points on each side.
The armhole extends from shoulder TO
waist line, where the sides of the front
and back are cut in pieces not three
inches In width. These are pointed at
the ends and cross like straps.
While this side arrangement Is newer
and smarter than the underarm piece
with which we are familiar. the coat
may be brought up to the usual height
under the arm and sleeves be inserted
If desired.
Rheumatic people would find the
Jacket best for them with a sleeve. In
this casa the sleeve would be decorated