The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-03-16

a Directoire coat of blue cloth, which opened over a waistcoat of white pique very much decorated affair, showing pipings of black satin and touches of coral red Where the waistcoat joined in the middle, there were frills of Valenciennes lace. The coat itself | was severe in outline, and little trim
 med. The sleeves were elbow length, and were finished with cuffs of em- broidered batiste, edged with lace. The high collar was furnished with a turn
 over of the same batiste. Under the coat was worn a batiste waist, embroid- cred and lace trimmed.
 1 A style of waist is being made very attractive at one of the small exclusive shops in New York. These waists are called jumpers by having no opening except at the top. The fulness of three
 or four plaits on the shoulders explains
 the mode of getting into the waist. | These plaits button and unbutton, and when open turn the waist into a kind of bag. They are very becoming to slim figures and are good when used | on substitutes for shirt-waist suits.
 The guimpe and undersleeves may be plain or elaborate, linen, batiste, or real lace, as the gown demands. A
 pretty model which is being exhibited now is of soft white silk, the edges of the jumper scalloped and embroidered I in design of white honeysuckle. The neck is deeply pointed in front, and
 the sleeves are mere shoulder rufflles. l They are scalloped and embroidered to
 match the jumper. The skirt is cir- cular affair trimmed with several hand-run tucks A folded belt is fastened with buckle of dull gold. Some of the exquisite brocaded and! embroidered silks seen in the best shops have been made into very plain blouses to wear under tailored jackets
 They are necessarily simple, as the ] patterns of the brocades allow of no tucks or other elaboration. A heavy cream satin brocaded in large gold | flowers made a very handsome waist. There were a few fine tucks on the shoul- l ders to give the requisite fitness, but otherwise the waist was perfectly plain. At the collar and cuffs a little Duchess lace showed as a finish The
 gown was a severe purple broadcloth,
 made with a long coat
 The colors of the new silks and other gown materials are delightful. The coral shades, for example, are exquis-
 ite. There is a red without a sugges-
 ton of brilliancy, yet rich and satis- | tying Other beautiful shades are lilac.
 mauve, migonette, soft gray, and
 fiower-like pinks and yellows Rain
 bow silks are especially alluring, as
 are also the silks and chiffons with
 flower printed borders, The latter
 come in sixty-inch widths and the fin-
 est are $S a yard. They make the
 loveliest of evening and dancing gowns. A thin material known as gaze marquise, is another airy fabric
 which delights the eye Mousseline
 de soie and tulle chiffon in shaded eff
 fects with flower borders are also lovely These materials combine cxcellently
 with lace, and are the better for girdles
 and decorations of the gold and silver
 gauge ribbon so popular just now.
 Empire evening gowns in crepe de
 chine and chiffon are about the pret-
 tiest things seen for some time A ooral-
 colored crepe for young matron was
 made with very full skirt above the
 hem with three groups of fine tucks.
 These were widely separated, the up-
 per group being twelve inches above
 the lowest. There was very short
 little Empire jacket of chiffon velvet
 of tone slightly darker than the
 crepe. This was open in the front,
 and seemed to be lined with frilIs of
 white lace. The sleeves were very
 short, and were combination of vel
 vet, crepe, and lace. A little tucker
 of lace finished the decollete,-New
 York Evening Post