Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-11
A STRENGTHENING NERvINE.

as fashion is adopted by the multitude,
It at once loses 1t distinctive character as
a fashion and becomes simply custom.
The tailor haberdasher and bootmaker
who serves the favorite few is therefore
jealous of his exclusive productions; for
after an innovation in cut. cloth or color
has been produced in low-class stuffs II
becomes quite impossible to him who must
at all hazards dress differently from the
crowd For my own part, favor in dress
the spice of the personality of the wearer.
His notions, preferences and taste should
be paramount and never subordinated TO
the dictates Of any tradesman, however
high he may stand in his craft. Without
this personality there cannot be that subtle
distinction which springs not so much from
good cloth and faultless tailoring as from
the individuality which clothes borrow
from the man who wears them. nave
always maintained that the truly we'll
dressed man does not derive distinction
from his clothes but lends IL to them. His
poise and air are important factors In con-
ferring upon the clothes the look of beng
part and parcel of the personality of the
Wearer. We all know men who patroniZe
high-cost tailors and yet who lack In their
dress the remotest distinction. This Is due
to the fact that they depend wholly upon
their tailors and do not themselves cult
vaGe any Of the attributes which make
clothes something more than a mere drap-
ing of the human figure.
Considering the colors of spring, gray and
blue loom most prominently. Among the
extreme novelties in gray fabrics are So
called shadow plaids checkerboard de-
signs, black and white checks and shep-
herds plaids. The last named are notably
smart and may only be had OF the high
cost tailors. It's plaids, again plaiis and
finally plaids. Next 10 gray comes blue in
self-stripes and with the blue silk threads
interviewer into the cloth. Similarly, the
fashionable gray stuffs show red silk
threads in the body. ''Worsted fannels,
that is, fabrics with worsted bodies and
flannel tops, are wholly new and very de-
sirahle. Not only in the materials for
lounge suits are shadow fabrics con-
spicuous, but equally in suitings for even
ing dress. l was the first to announce this
fact year ago, but then shadow stripes
were relatively scarce. This spring they
are omnipresent in both swallowtail and
Tuxedo stuffs and the effect is much more
pleasing than one would fancy. Certainly
1t lends dash of character that quiet ever
ing dress lacks and ii is besides something
distinctly new and therefore TO be well
coined as swerving from conventional
standards.
Spring Jackets are cut much the same as
winter jackets, being long. fitted TO the
waist and quite faring of skirt The lapels
are not pressed fiat. however, but are
ironed with a soft roll. which is more in
harmony with the present "lounginess''
that marks informal clothes. The Jacket
has either the narrow cuff finish or turn
back cuffs. A distinctly new cut of jacket
is derived from English sources. The edge
of the jacket IN front, instead of following
a straight line defects toward the bottom
and forms a swinging curve. As l nave
said this is typically English design and
whether 1t will take time must demon
strate There is to be said in Its favor
IL is wholly new and stamps the Jacket
with a character all its own Moreover, it
is sponsored by one OF the best tailors IN
New York, who serves picked clientele
The nimbleness with which the maker OF