Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-26

NEW YORK, August "a, 1906
A TTENTION now begins 10 turn
~ to costumes for the fall, though
"A 1t Is with some degree OF re-
II ~ luctance that the eyes are with
drawn from the elaborate and
beautiful gowns which the warm days OF
the summer brings out at the horse shows
and tournaments at the resorts. Newport.
at present tennis mad, has been particularly
gay, and in spite of the rather threaten
ing character Of the weather conspicuous
at the recent opening Of the tournament
for It's elaborate gowns. ,s..-
Embroidered linen and Irish lace made
up the greater number Of the dresses, but
null and organdie assisted in making the
show more distinctly soft and summary.
An empire robe In sunray plated chiffon
of pale blue over deeper toned undersilp
of mauve chiffon taffeta trimmed with fne
plaitin6s of mauve and blue tulle and
bands of embroidered liberty satin has been
ordered in Paris, by letter, by New York
woman noted for her taste IN gowns. The
model sent her shows the sunray plating
beginning at the empire top and continuing
to the bottom OF the robe, which sweeps the
floor. The chiffon will be so thin and the
plating so Scant tndt the TlduNe HSHtS VI
the lustrous silk underneath will shine
through, giving an -indescribably beautiful
effect that no other combination of colors
save mauve. and blue seem to give
At the bottom of the robe. protected by
lace underruffie Is to be knife plating OF
pale blue and mauve tulle, the one above
the other, the blue being at the edge. Five
inches from this Is to be another double
row of the plaitings turning upward. and be-
tween the two will be placed band OF pale
blue liberty satin worked on Its scalloped
edges In button-hole stitch In mauve and
having. mauve orchids embroidered here and
there through it's center. Ten inches above
this band OF embroidery and plaitings will
come a second one somewhat narrower. The
Inch in width to three-fourths of an inch.
The top of the robe Is to have fchu
effect of the chiffon over silk edged with
knifeblade plaitings Of tulle. the ehinon
smaller size than those on the skirts. This
fchu Is to be made of two bands, each
three inches wide. To begin with, there will
be long scarf ten inches wide Of the silk
covered with the chiffon. and the inner edge
will be Tapped over some three inches back
on the wider section, leaving the whole
thing six inches wide. Both the lower part
of the six-inch section, and the center of
the three-inch section are to be adorned
with the orchids. and then attached to the
outer edge Of each section there Is to be
knife plating of mauve tu!le. the outer one
two inches wide, the inner an inch and
half. This scarf will be crossed In the back,
forming a big X. and coming over the
shoulders leaves an open V In the front,
the ends being tapered and arranged to
meet just above the bust line, and are to be
fastened under a chou on mauve liberty
satin ribbon, each loop different shade of
mauve to match the orchids, and each en-
broidered with tiny orchid. The open neck
is filed in with a stock and yoke of real
Cluny and Irish point.
Il
The sleeves will end above the elbow,
but the chiffon will droop In sagging puffs
over the elbows. and six-inch f1ounces of
mauve chiffon showing medallions Of Cluny
embroidered in orchids will droop over the
arms. The sleeves themselves are to be
puffs of mauve taffeta covered with clouds
of pale blue tulle, the whole being plated
into the armholes.
A hat to go with the above robe when
used as visiting gown is to be of pale
mauve velvet, the shape of the sailor
order with straight round brlm. 1t is to
be faced with plaitings of pale blue tulle
that are to project perhaps a quarter OF
an inch beyond the brim- Pale mauve
and pale blue tulle are to be twisted in
clouds around the crown and from the
center front. rising toward the left side,
there IS to be large bird of paradise
plume in shaded blue and mauve. The
hat is to be lifted at the left side and
back by bandeau covered with the tulle
in two colors, and cachepeigne of mauve
violets Is also to be used.
graceful little coat and skirt in palest
tan broadcloth, relieved with touches on
the coat only OF tawny brown velvet and
almost orange hued soutache braid. will,
weather permitting. for broadcloth is not
cool material. be seen at the Newport horse
show. The skirt is a partially circular,