The evening times. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1906-1914, 1906-04-16
INGENIOUS COOKERY FRAUDS.
Cod Becomes Salmon and Beef Veal.
Substitute for Breast Of Chicken:

SuUSutulo lOF BREAST OF chicken.
1t has almost passed into a proverb
that many of the dishes served up in
cheap restaurants where nothing ia
wasted are, to put 1t mildly. mysteries.
But. on the other hand. says London
Tid-Bits, most people who patronize
fashionable and more ambitious res
taurants are generally content to ac-
cept the menu for what it is said to
be. This blind trust is. however. in
many such restaurants somewhat
abused, and the amount of taking"
which goes on today in some of the
well-to-do establishments would prob
ably surprise those who are uninitiat-
ed in the higher branches of the Gull
mary art.
For instance, by the addition of
vegetable juice Just before being dish
ed up, cod outlets are. as seasons
when salmon Is very dear. set before
customers as salmon outlets. and~are,
needless to say, charged accordingly.
This deception" according to an ex-
chef of one of Lopdens leading res
taurants. is widely practiced not only
In better class restaurants. but also
on some of the great liners.
Another popular trick as practiced
by the restauranteur is to serve as
veal beef we'll done up overnight in
sailed bandages. while skillful chef
has very little difficulty in palming of
whiting for sole ON epicures who pride
themselves on the soundness of their
judgment of cooking.
A few weeks ago q dinner for IS
people was ordered at q well-known
fashionable restaurant. A large con-
Segment of salmon had been pre-
viOusly ordered. but to the consterna-
ton of the chef the dinner hour Slow
ly approached and still no salmon ar
rived.
In despair the chef-a Frenchman-
decided to take the bull by the horns'
and procure another fish to do duty
for the coveted salmon. Accordingly,
he setrto work to turn cod outlets in
to salmon outlets, and this rapid
transformation was soon effected by
an addition of vegetable juice. The
walters, who naturally were aware of
this wholesale deception. were given
express orders to report any COM
plants to the chef at once. However,
to the intense delight of the chef, all
passed off we'll. and ON hearing that
his subterfuge had not been detected
he gleefully exclaimed, "Ah, a cod and
French cook scan work miracles"
Green peas at certain seasons of
the year are naturally a luxury quite
beyond the reach of the man of aver
age means, while even caterers for
fashionable hotels themselves fire.
quently have the greatest difficulty in
getting sufficiently large quantity
to meet the demand. However. to
fake peas Sdoes not offer any great
difficulty in times of stress. and by
adding vegetable coloring matter yell
low peas are quite commoner served
up as green peas along with the duck
and favorless new potato. which more
often than not comes from abroad.
Roast veal served with thick white
sauce makes, says well-known chef,
most satisfactory substitute for the
breast of chicken. and therefore it
does not come altogether as sur
prise to learn that the breast of one
chicken" has been known to satisfy
IL hungry diners.
"The staff take good care of the
breast of chicken" was the COM
ment of a waiter who was being for
the first time initiated into the nys-
terry of how to feed dozen people off
one chicken
ferudpS Tie CleVeFeSL ueCepLlOn
practiced by eminent chefs is the art
of manufacturing the lobster patty, SO
dear to the heart of the epicure. This
appetizing dainty would at first sight
seem to defy even the most ingeni-
! Gus cookery faker. However. here
again the artful chef has overcome
apparently insuperable difficulties and
many toothsome-looking lobster pat
ties are thus not always quite what
they are said to be.
The deception is worked in this
way: A common crustacean is boiled
and the meat carefully chopped off
and put into mortar, while after
ward part of the shell is added. The
mixture is then vigorously pounded
as fine as possible and on the addi-
ton of flavoring it would tax the
powers of the most critical connois-
seur to detect any difference between
this gastronomic mixture and the gen.
uine lobster patty.
"The various receptions have told
you Of" remarked a famous chef to
the writer, ARE naturally not prac-
ticed every day, but are only utilized
in times of emergency, and those
emergency moments arrive more fire.
quently than the trustful customer
would like did he but know"