Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-06

have dashing travelling air. These are
loose or half-fttng. the skirts of some of
the more shapeless ones going out at the
bottom with an immense flare. Beaut1fu
coats and cape cloaks for evening wear are
In white, pale blue and rose colored cloth,
charming gowns, cut out slightly at the
neck Of soft pale silk going with these. as
well as fluffy feather sets and big hats
with fy-away ribbon bows, or else with
ostrich feathers Immensely long and rich.
Apropos Of feathers, the downy marabout
is immensely in favor. The oldest combi-
nations are made with the muffs and tip
pets. plumage in one color showing tinted
tips in another, and tufts tightening the
ends Of hat quilts or else manipulated in
some way to form an outstanding aigrette.
A pretty girl with a white marabout set,
and an evening coat trimmed with 1t, Is like
big bird-and the eye unaccustOmed to
such eegances stares with some Of the
wonder one showers on the rare feathered
creature. .
IN departments purely millinery quilts
have dashing place, and some are so long.
so wide that they slant in hats like swords.
For ordinary use sailor hats with these
deckings put On at the side with huge
ribbon velvet bows are much seen. Girls
with jauntier tastes affect side-tilted shapes
trimmed with wings, which. like the quilts,
reproduce effects never seen in nature. A
f1at-brim hat of woolly felt, garnished sole
ly with wide ribbon or velvet in elaborate
child way, is very usual headpiece for
the younger ages. AS to the sailor hats
they have grown in size, which is a happy
change, for the little bob-tailed English
sorts were by no means always becoming.
Especially upon young girls did they seem
foolish, for the masses of understanding
required more of couture than is per-
mitted the maiden.
Models Described.
Descriptions of cuts are as follows A
street gown for girl from sixteen to
eighteen is of deep green cloth with a white
vest and green and black braid on the
jacket This is one of the oldest and pref
test of the seasons Etons, a cross trim
ming at the bottom of the shoulder pleats
giving some of the full short-waisted look
now desired. The skirt. which has prin-
cess cut at the top, Is fastened with black
buttons down the left side. A deep tuck
in the faring bottom-for the top is cut to
fit the hips closely-simulates an overskirt.
A high linen collar Is worn with a black
satin bow cravat.
Another Eton dress for the same age is
Of blue diagonal wool with the stuff cut
bias and employed upon the loose-fronted
| white cloth set at the bust and held by
| blue and black buttons are smart features,
| to which square lace collar gives an eie-
| CANT touch. A wide girdle Of soft black
| liberty is the line Of union with the plain
skirt.
Pale sweetgum colored cloth, with narrow
| soutache and tiny silk-covered buttons in
| the same shade, is the material Of q smart
afternoon frock. This is made with a
| belted blouse Jacket fitted at the Shout
ders with Gibson pleats; the braid and but
| tons. which are put on the full skirt in
big, uneven block effect, trims 1t sparsely.
| narrow belt of ribbop betting In the same
| pale brown. fastened with an ornamental
buckle, girdles the waist.
The fourth gown In this picture, which Is
| the larger one Of the two, shows one of
| the phases of the French pony coat. Dull
| red cloth Is the material of this, scarf
Of soft black silk, falling at the front with
| a bow and tasseled ends threading through
| the slashed bottom of the coat in a novel
way The shoulder cut of the coat gives
| the long effect, which is again approved.
and the smaller collar is topped by pointed
skirt of white satin held with black but
| tons The pleated skirt Is fitted closely at
| the hips. with the flare approved beginning
above the knees. All the sleeves in these
cuts are described elsewhere, with trim
mings to accord in each individual case.
Dainty Dress-Ups.
In the smaller picture the daintiness of
batiste and white silk is exploited in ele-
CANT bodice trimmings. A gown of pale
gray wolfe shows the silk, which Is tucked
and puffed for the bodice yoke and under
sleeves The bodice, which Is gathered
full, has the effect of a low neck, stitched
band of the wolfe ana small gray silk but
tons outlining it. The cap sleeves are made
to cross at the outer arm, and are elaborate
with tuclls, stitched bands and buttons,
silk undersleeves. A modcum of lace is
used on the stock, at the front of. which
is a ladder of little bows Of narrow green
velvet. Bias green velvet girdles the waist,
and above plain hem effect the skirt Is
trimmed with a tucked puff. edged with
stitched bands of the gown material.
The second dress of this picture has one
Of the new quaint cape effects on the
bodice. novelty wool, in a dim green with
a silk thread is the material of this, with
very dark green velvet ribbon and French
mercerized lace for trimmings. On the
waist of the costume this forms yoke in
side the cape one Of the cloth, the velvet
outlining this and trimming the belt and
sleeves dainty detail Is a front frill
gathered at the center of the lace, run
ming down from the neck to the belt. The
three-quarter puff sleeves have turn-back
cuffs edged with the velvet.
The hats shown with all these draw
ings are the sophisticated sorts allowed
young girls this season. The most sensible
Of the collection is the sailor shape, which
= heavily trimmed at the back with wide
Dion. MARY DEAN.