New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1906-08-26
THE YORKSHIRE COAST.
1 Hosday Walk across the MOOrs
to UVMtby.
Whitby, August 20.

Whitby, August 20.
-. Yorkshire coast has the wild. breezy.
:. noors behind it and gIarious views Of
= ca eastward From the low sand dunes
,,incoynshire il rises beyond the Humber to
: -,;,,aring white cliffs Of Marlborough Head
!. riley there is a broad ribbon Of sand where
,,nv reef OF rock cuts its way into the sea,
ar Scarborough there is ruined castle high
-. tbe sweep of curving beach and the maze
:, boiaav shops and luxurious hotels. With
,-nsfing streaks Of gray and red the cliffs
-,,nt higher from Bayburn Wyke 20 the Peak
"a bsvond that noble headland is the tranquil
n NJ Robin Hoods Bay, with a road steep as
s5ser sIanting up from the beach into top
,rturyvdom Of gray houses and red tiled roofs
p,baDs this oldtime smuggleFs village is less
..ir. and picturesque than il was before il
v,s uoaernized for the convenience OF tourists;
,sraipIy II is less like Dutch VOlendam than
s,arhes with its tumble-dOwn novels. its short
.Ertea fshwives and its precipitOus rock faces.
vbsre a Diapers boy heard the waves calling
n him and ran away to sea TO make name
rsDtain Cook Between Staithes and Robin
g.oj's town there is a range of lofty cliffs, and
guong them with ruined abbey and a stone
surch high on the inner wall is ancient Whit
~ with the Esk losing its way westward in
angle OF E7ind-swept moorland. Happy is the
ID fashioned traveller who has faith in his legs
md follows patiently the trail among the rocks,
:sls and Eilds mile after mile. with the breath
d the sea on the high moors around him!
long way off he sees the landmarks OF the
East Cliff. St Mary's Tower and the crumbling
alvey while the glints of red and blue under
nsath are Whitby. There is a point OF view
disappointing from without, Is tranfgured into
asteIness and loveliness from within, with the
green turf in place Of the tessellated pavement
and Bith masses of ivy sOftening with verdure
he cold gray lines OF the matchless arcades-
Namesbury triumphs gloriously over time. de-
az and patchwork restoration when the majes-
tic south porch is closely approached. The time
EOTn tower Of Fountains Abbey must be seen
abruptly at the turning Of the road through the
park. or its sombre beauty, isolated majesty and
aO0fness from the workaday world win not be
appreciated. Whitby Abbey lacks neither charm
Of color nor refinement OF decoration, but it's
lustere simplicity needs long lines OF perspec-
i've. When it looms up far aield on the crest
q the cliff it seems in perfect accord with its
nEiTOnment There IS the solemn silence Of
he Eild moorIand: there IS the loneliness of the
c44A IleI0 - Cle Decisive EleAdf1ChOiy or tho
thirteenth century ruin, with its splendid west
szeen, its shattered aisles and transepts and its
=umbing choir It fits in with its scenic setting
p7ecisely the Escorial seems 20 have sprung
ut Of The mountain dehles, because the spirit
q The stern. rockgirt barrens is In IL 1t mat
as not who St Hilda was, or what was done
n The stored abbey when il was harried by
lanes OF Norsemen, or when the tower fell and
he ruinous nave was left desolate. The SID
hOuette Of the medieval temple high among the
Ocks between the moors and the sea is complete
Its sombre grandeur. On closer approach
he rOugh-hewn steps OF a Via Dolorosa Will be
Ounted. architectural details revealed, ancient
mo modern wayside crosse. discovered and a
zGteenth century manor house forced into
commence; and then il Will be knOBA that the
nbtle fascination Of the gray abbey is an en-
aantnent Of dreamy ranges Of distance.
So also Is Il with ne low stone tower OF the
A-ish church When il IS seen across the
0oEs IL has a primitive dignity. and. juttinz