The San Francisco call., 1906-10-14

in shaded tones of the same color as
the dress, and If the cloth is white
ecru. then the embroidery should be
white, with perhaps just faint touch
of palest green. Whit cloth is still
more fashionable than any other for
house gowns, as the decided colors al
ways give a little the appearance of
a street dress worn in the house, now
that such light shades are considered
suitable for reception and theater dress,
while white cloth is about equally
smart for the house, reception and thea
ter dress.
Soft satin and satin finished silks
make most attractive reception gowns
that is, OF course, for the hostess.
There are many shades of gray that
are fashionable this year, but the pale
tones are most popular. For recep-
tion dress a delicate shade of gray
messaline, chiffon taffeta or some such
satin finished silk can be made up most
attractively with lace of the same
shade and the silk embroidered in
steel beading. White lace will make
the gown more youthful and is often
prettier than when the one shade is
adhered to too consistently. Among
the soft silks the debutante will find
many textures that are sure to make up
charmingly for her reception dress,
and, apart from being peculiarly be-
coming and appropriate, a white silk
gown will prove most serviceable for
all manner of occasions. The extreme
ly pretty model in cream white mes
saline was made with long train skirt
on which were stretched all the way to
within few inches OF the belt narrow
ruf1es of the silk; the ruffles were
scalloped with a buttonhole stitch, the
end of one overlapping the ruffie be-
low. The bodice was made with a
- -
the sleeves being formed of narrow lace
ruff1es; just at the elbow was narrow
turned-back cuff of The silk. The soft
silk belt was fastened in black beneath
long rhinestone buckle.
The lace gowns worn during the
summer were so very beautiful that il
would seem impossible to surpass them
for a winter costume, which must
naturally be handsomer than that de-
signed for any other time of year.
However, the lace gowns exhibited just
now are quite gorgeous enough to sat
isfy even the most exacting, nor can
they in any way be mistaken for a
summer gown that has chanced to
surpass the rayages of a severe sea-
son. Just now it is the Introduction
of black and white lace which. attracts
most attention. The finest OF black and
white laces are combined over a
groundwork of net or chiffon and
caught together, as it were. with little
straps of white or black satin and
velvet ribbon. The lace, too, is fire.
quently re-embroidered and picked out
in tiny rhinestones so as to be the
more effective, but at the same time
there is nothing so conspicuous to
be in bad form about these lace cos
tunes. Then there are the long lace
coats that are worn with silk skirt and
bodice. just as the brocade jacket is
made up, as contrast with a chiffon
dress. One exceptionally smart gown
was of black and white striped silk.
with vest of white net and lace. over
which was worn a three-quarter length
perfectly fitting black lace coat When
lace is worn at all only the finest and
most expensive qualities should be con-
sidered, for the poorer the quality the
less of it there should be to make the
gown noticeable. Just touch of real
lace will often make a simple gown
look very smart, while no amount of
poor imitation salenciennes or Irish
can make an attractive costume.