Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-28

showed a peplum drapery at the back.
which was most graceful This was OF
ecru cluny garnished with motifs or
cluny en- relief, In conjunction with
UNIQUE characterization of linden green rib
bon A coat drapery of linden-green linen
covered the lace bodice this forming q
little tipple shoulder cape slashed sleeve
caps and the long peplum tails This skel-
eton coat which was delicately embroid-
cred In the same color. had remarkable
cachet, and suited Mademoiselle Sorel. who
is famed for her exquisite little waist, to
perfection. Short lace sleeves hung under
the linen caps, square bow of black satin
was worn at the bust and large hat OF
fine black straw with green feathers
crowned the whole The three gowns de-
scribed are shown in the larger drawing.
Two other gowns worn at the Varieties
by artists less renowned are given in the
smaller picture. The day toilet was of
trimmed knee-high with scalloped yolants.
edged with a ruching of white net A
crossed bolero and high ceintuTe, orna-
mented with pleated bands Of chiffon
taffetas decked the bodice, whose unlined
yoke was of white cretin lace. A little
mantle of the same lace embroidered with
ecru covered the shoulders, and the hat
was an odd Corday shape of cream leg
horn, with crown band and roses in old
pink.
Affects the Empire Style.
The second gown was an evening affair
of rose leaf mousseline. with a double skirt
edged with volants of Yalenciennes, with
embroideries and ribbon borders in deeper
rose. For the corsage this lace was posed
upon a blouse of silver gauze, the decoi-
letage square and the short puff sleeves
finished with bands. The high girdle was
of silver gauze, and a silver aigrette and
rose were delightful couture ornaments.
A magnificent toilet worn by Henriette
Rogers at the Renaissance In la Griffe'
defed illustration. This gown, which was
in empire style. began with plain skirt
of gold gauze, drapped at the bottom with
gold lace held by wide ribbon knots in
bright rose. over this was an entire prin-
cess robe of "prism-red" tulle, embroidered
with silver and gray silk. The under
blouse of the short WASTED little bodice
was a transparent of white lace, against
which the splendid silver embroideries OF
the outer robe showed off magnihcently.
A wide belt OF rose satin, finished with fill
gree gold buttons and a bust rosette of the
same satin, were bodice details for this be-
wildering costume. whose subtle combina-
lions and studied splendor defied the most
ambitious imitator.
In the ranks of the younger actresses
who have yet to win the crown OF possible
Immortality Mile. Lanielme of the Theater
Royal Is youthful beauty whose graceful
ingenue schemes are much admired. Pos
sessed of a round and perfect figure and
a wealth of magnificent hair, which is Of
ten WreatneQ ana threaded IN 6dccnanliC
way with fruits and flowers Mile. Lanielme
is adored by the Jeunes gems about town.
Her muslin toilets, many OF which initiate
precious ancient weaves, are covered with
beautiful laces and embroiderieS and some
times show touches of dark fur. A decora-
ton recently worn in her hair, with one
of these ravishing muslin frocks, consisted
OF a bandeau Of green velvet, with side
knots of little apples mingled with wild
roses, field grasses and miniature ears of
corn.
Costumes Like Gems.
There is no doubt but that the stage
toilet holds an important place here,
and makers affirm that the very need for
stage perfection makes every detail already
a matter of the greatest Importance. In
fact, the world must look for still greater
exaction in this matter, for toilets under
discussion for autumn use are to be gems
OF careful study. Which means that the
price of Ia toilette is not to lower, for the
lace makers, embroiderers and fine sewers
of the world will be even more in demand.
Returning to stage gowns-what becomes
of these precious chiffons when the curtain
is rung down for the last time? They are
Immediately sold as matter OF course,
sometimes at the Hotel Drouot auctions,
sometimes to artists of the minor theaters,
sometimes to provincial managers who
know the artistic value of the thing which
is not make believe. Again, il the toilet
is very frippe (worn) the trimming may
be ripped of and sold separately, en-
broideries cut out, or the whole garment
picked to pieces to be used again as a
pattern by some quite pretenttous maker.
In this way one sometimes encounters,
even In the shops, toilets called after
favorite actresses whose types and charac-
teristics are delightfully."- suggested.
AS to things departed, the old Paris resi-
dent recalls delightful memories OF worn
stage finery. In the palny days of the
Temple market. famous for old clothes and
Marie Antoinette, many a garment which
still remained precious to artists and dress
makers, could be picked up for song
Police requirements exacted the cleaning of
every garment before entering 1t. and at
the door, guarded with a blue-coated gen.
darme. two cents entrance fee was demand
ed of the visitor. Here in the old days
came the cast-off raiment of many cele-
brated artists The gorgeous Sardou finery
OF Bernhard, the poetic toilets OF lovely
Bartet, whose Adrienne was adored. Reich
emberg's maidenly muslins and ribbon
belts. Even Mounet-Sully. who was the
very glass of fashion in those times con-
tributed his quota, artists on the ssBoui
Miche.n and elsewhere buying up his more
romantic finery for model use.