The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-07-21
JOURNAL AND COURIER


 which seem especially adapted for such trimmings, and they are not too expen- sive.
 Very stictly tailored garments are seen, even the long-coated linens such as occasionally appear having an out -of-date look. Not but that long-coat suits are in good style, but this years stamp on them is very distinctive. h. variably they show touch of embroid- cry, of velvet. or silk, and the coats are not as long as those of last season. Most suits of this sort are made up in fine material, smooth serges or satin faced goods, in silk or the fine linen weaves.
 The separate skirt, although 1t has been superseded by the skirt-suit, is nevertheless shown in a number of at tractive models, and it's popularity is not likely to expire with the summer.
 A smart design in shadow plaid, soft grays, is new. From the waist to the hips it is knife-plaited, and from there in some unaccountable manner, these plaits broaden and turn themselves into box-plaits the line formed by the turn | ing forming a yoke line. It is beauti- fully tailored, and as odd as it is effec- | tive. Another separate skirt. a long one for house wear, is of black de soie, in straight gored style, with a circular founce, graduated from a depth of inc inches in front to eighteen or twenty in the back. The hounce and two side strips extending from the waist line to the top of the flounce are made of satin broadcloth, and decorated with groups of velvet-covered buttons. It is an add combination, but has an lair" and a suggestive design for a made over.
 With this skirt was worn a dainty blouse of the sheerest of batiste, de- corated with shadow embroidery in an elaborate chrysanthemum pattern in- terwoven with bow-knots of very fine Valenciennes insertion, It was hand- made as are many of the most ex- quisite confections of this order. Shad- ow embroidery is being carried to the fine China silks, both for corset-covers and for waists and doubtless will retain it's popularity through the fall season, as, worn over colored slips, the shadow work shows up excellentlv
 Veils from important accessories to | the up-to-date toilet, and there are al- most as many varieties and as many ways of arranging them as there are people to wear them.
 1 For the warm weather one is infinite ly more comfortable minus the face veil unless ones hair blows about annoy ingly in which case the proper veil Is a single-mesh net for evening and 8 single-mesh net with a scattering of | tiny black or white dots for daytime wear. It is neither wise nor necessary l to buy expensive veils-face wells, that is--for they soil more easily than we are aware of, and 1t is better to have 1 fresh ones oftener Thirty-five and | fifty cents is a reasonable limit. In the matter of draped wells, one may be justified in allowing aones self more 1 leeway, for there are so many tempting designs, and all are more or less ex- lpensive. The chiffon varieties are warm, and tulle is to perishable, but one can now obtain yelling which is a cross between the two. and which is more satisfactory than either. We seem to have got away from the ag- gresive shades which first appeared, and We are confining ourselves to soft, quiet tones of pink, blue, gray, etc. There is a rose,white which is particu- Ilarly charming, and invariably be- coming; also a ''clel" blue, but this should be avoided by the dusky-skin- ned person, or in fact by any but those of the dearest, creamy complexions, as it is otherwise extremely trying
 So much for the wells themselves, but much more might be said and written of the way they are and should be worn. It is nothing less than a fine art to adjust veil properly, and, hav- ing adjusted it. to keep 1t in its place, especially with the present styles of headgear, which tipping up and down I at the most unexpected angles, are most inconveniently designed for hang ing veil
 Few valance wells are seen, but in stead they are fastened to the hair or hat, and allowed to hang loosely just below the chin. The square veil, too, seems to have given place to the wide scarf veil which is most difficult of ali to manage. It is only slightly longer than it's width. which Is often q yard or more, and is worn over the hat and tied under the chin, or else drawn from the back and tied A French fancy is to run a gathering string in a circle around the centre, the shape of the hat crown over which 1t is to be worn and leave the cord ends long enough to enable one to tie it down necurely. then 1t may be fastened in either of the l aforementioned ways.
 It is wise always, with face or motor veils. to run shlrr string at the top or bottom, or both for with one or two wearings otherwise they are stretched lbeyond further use. An untidy. ill4 arranged veil may spoil the effect of a perfect toilet, and on the other hand properly donned fresh, crisp veil adds materially to the tone ensemble.
 Although this is considered the duul season in shopland, the counters adn showcases are heaped with charming novelties tended to lure the shekels from the pures of the Southerners and other tourists who take this vacation season for visit to the Metropolis New York Evening Post.
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