Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-20

fancy velvets are beginning to figure
Soft tan crowned turbans trimmed with
feathers show their use to fine advantage
in the crowns and shirred br1ms.
Speaking of plaids, Scotland certainly
rules fashion so far this season, and the
only thing that seems lacking are Dag
pipes and bare knees. Marie stuart caps
are to be worn by older women, Whiie
the narrow, pointed highlander cap in
felt, clan silk and fur. trimmed with n
rosette and one long quill, is to De pop
ular model for everyday wear. 10 con
tinue the story of plaids. one or the au :
tumn novelties Is the tailored suit OF
plaid flannel. A smart example Is puilt OF
plaid having cross lines of dark green's
and puppies with touch or req. me
skirt is plated and the jacket. long,
the knees. 1t is lined with dark purple
silk-satin being no longer considered
correct-and worn over "aistcoae %
pearl gray canvas. embroidered on the
pockets and down the fronts in fne de-
sign This combination of dull purple ana
pale gray Is ore OF the newest IDEAS ana
it gives delightful results. especially Wnen
the hat is Of deeper shade of gray than
the dress.
4
Everything here at the gay capital that
makes for costume smartness Is now Ia
beled "English'-we are so enamored OF
our British cousins-and l saw at Pa
GUMS an odd combination bearing this
magic sign. 1t was a plaid tweed morn
ing gown worn with corduroy shooting
Jacket. This jacket was fashioned along
the lines Of Norfolk coat with YOKE
back and front from which the material
hung in outward turning plalts. Ihero
was no fuIlness. no dropping at the oeit'
and by the way, this latter was or mar
row patent leather fastened with mar
ness buckle The sleeves were plated
and had turned-over cuffs. Altogether II
was a natty coat for rather stout wom-
an if there are any such ABOUT nova
days You know the edict has gone IoTtn
this fall. NO hips" so slender we are st
all costs. And 1t doesn't matter IN the
least If your physician tells you "asp
waist and malnutrition go hand In hand
the waist you must nave, TOT IL 81 III
don't you know.
An important fashion feature Is tne
change fn-sleeves, which has come on so
gradually that 1t has hardly been OH
served except by the initiated. The new
effect is chiefly noticeable in tailored gar
ments where the sleeves are put in plain
like a mans only little squarer on the
shoulders They reach little below
three-duarter length, though not quite 10
the wrist.
Without doubt long sleeves will make
their appearance later on In the season,
and in their efforts to revive anclent
fashions it is to be hoped couturieres Will
not be tempted to emulate the sleeves 81
the twelfth century. which were so long
that they had to be tied In knots.
There are rumors that we are 10 say
rood-bye to back-buttoning bodices. This
Is certainly good news for husbands VINO
supply the places of ladies' maids. Hfgn
collars are also to depart which Is a
pleasant piece of information for the girl
with a plump neck but how about she OF
the scrawny type? In the meanwhile we
are reveling in high. straight, transparent
collars which are well boned and nj the
neck perfectly. These collars are edged
with velvet When l say edsng l mean
that the edging is made of wide piping
or band. And the lightest of colors are
used. Pale blue, cerise. lemon yellow, the
highest of almond green and the deepest
capucine are chosen-anything to make
the skin look fairer.
II is just these tiny reversions from the
summer types that mark the new styles
For instance one noted dressmaker Is IN
Producing the shoulder epaulet on both
corsaee and jacket. Another couturiere, In
direct contradiction. is insisting upon
sloping shoulders, which idea is more In
Keeping with the new pelerine effects that
are so smart. The bolero, too, SO much
admired by la Parislenne and which re-
ceives favor from almost every well dress
ed woman in the world. has been con-
demned by another house, which has re-
fused to make the bolero on any new MOD
els. This goes to prove that variety Is
certain, but just what style will receive the
most attention is a question for the future.
CATHARINE TALBOT.