The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-07-21

Ing more sdllSLdctOIS loE LlaNoiAlll5 wear.
 Khaki is another summer favorite, especially for the tailored or semi tailored effects, and these, too come in ready-made in really smart designs. One with the new Madeline skirt, which has a plaited front panel, the plaits stitched down to the top of the deep hem, was accompanied with a coatee having tiny revers, cuffs for the elhow sleeves and collar, all of mili- tary blue velvet embroidered in gold thread pricked out with black,
 The sun-ray frock instead of losing seems to have gained prestige with its second season, and where last year were only skirts now the pretty effect is carried out in entire froeks.
 The soft shadow plaids are especially effective made up in this manner. They are usually combined with plain material or with a heavy lace. For ex- ample, dull gray plaid, the skirt cut bias and sunplaited, has round waist, also plaited, simply brought into cir  concealed by a stitched band of plain silk matching the lightest shade in the plaid. The band laps in front and the outer end is cut in a rounded point. Similar bands just above the elbow finish the sleeves which are not pouch ed at all but all the gathers are brought straight down to the band. In lieu of a girdle this pretty costume has a narrow shirred belt of the goods cut straightwise.
 It is vastly important in these sun ray plaited skirts and frocks that all of the lines be absolutely correct as the slightest deviation is noticeable.
 Checks with pin dots scattered in profusion over their surfaces are also extremely attractive for sun-plaited models, and as these designs are sell dom seen except in the smooth and more expensive materials they come in the class of exclusives.
 Another variation of this style of frock which drew forth much favorable comment was fashioned out of black and white check taffeta with larger squares formed by hair-lines of black. Around the bottom of the skirt was inserted before the plating was done Q Greek border outlined in black satin ribbon one-haf inch wide. The same effect was carried out in the bodice, the Greek design forming the lower part, following the shape of the rather high glrdle.
 Lace insertions, fiat braids in any of the numberless new weaves. plaited ribbon, and motifs and medallions of various sorts are inserted in these sun But it must be remembered that the sun ray skirt like the princess is not for all women. Only very slender -proportioned figure may wear one with impunity, and even then those with the plain, snuggly-ftted hip-yoke are by far the more graceful
 The present style of sleeves, the new est design, which means gathered very full top and bottom, and drawn into the band with almost no pouching at all, is especially adaptable to knife accordion or run-ray plating
 Speaking of sleeves, there is as yet no indication of a return to long ones unless 1t be in the fact that there is still no hope of long gloves in sight, and If the salesmen are to be believed, not likely to be any until after next January, when the winter product is finished.
 It seems that the manufacturers not forseeing this rage for elbow gloves turned out no more than the usual quantity and proceeded to change the needles of the looms for whatever the machine which manufactures gloves is called, putting in the coarser ones used for the heavy winter articles, hence the inability of the local merchants to sup ply the demand.
 There are some wonderfully beautiful combs in Empire and Spanish design. One of the latter is high scroll pat tern, intricately done in black adn gold on an amberlike foundation and thick ly studded with vari-colored jewels. An odd comb well suited to the new Gretchen" coiffure is of a Chinese de- sign. Dull gold, with wonderful carv- ings of tiny birds and butterflies, touched up with glintings of color, rose and green gold. The eyes of the birds and the spots on the wings of the but terflies are designated by diamonds.
 A unique hat pin shows a tiny Hindu god on a pedestal, and another, a pea cock with tail feathers in tinted gold widespread, and having two little dla- mond eyes.
 The wedding of Princess Ena has brought many a pretty Spanish fancy into favor among them the gorgeously decorated fans. Some of these show ex. quisite embroideries others magnificent tapestry effects, rich hand-painted de- signs or the more ordinary ones oi daintily patterned silk, but all of then huge affairs which qute overshadow the pygmies which we are generally using over here. The wee fan, attached tC the long chain and allowed to danglt from the neck is seen everywhere ant with all sorts of toilettes. It is top con venient to be relegated to the back ground after one season, and Is given 2 place alongside the viniagrette and tn, vanity case.-New York Evening Post ---------
 LIBERTY COUNCIL, NO. 9.