The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-06-24
Snort SLEEVE STILL REIGNS
cONsgCURSTGV THE LON0 SLOVE
WESTON ~ sffIs ACUFH.

4IMN " Y NV " 'NF W ~ wv
moish ting eiovsa ~ nepa iha demand
oslope alk gloves sapecialiy thefr has h~ef
.d.sfh A. various times, and n would take
"A ssr~r' accountant Ia asyFs 10 the mum
be, n long black eilk and long whita pilh
doves .that have been cold In Nsw York
alone.
Long Nd gloves are too ~expsnavs q luz.
vy for the ordinary YEA II the aveFaes
vonan. and evsn the woman who could
sRotd 70 wear them often prefers the sIls
bsAuse she linda them more comfortable,
bu, sven the long dlk gloves Of good quality
are not Inexpensive and glove bills have
sarrd amazingly this season.
'one NJ our customers came m here the
ether day, said o rfth avenue glove mer-
chant, 'and ordered her gloves for the sum
nsr season. She was going away and laid
IN q supply TO last until fall. What do you
think her bill for the one order was1 Just
n tnfe over $500. I'd like To subscribe
20 a monument fund for the dressmaker
who launched the short ~sleeve.'
Though the abort sleeve has brought
new eItrava ganoc In It's train. Ito popularity
shows no sign Of passing. There are, per-
hape, more long sleeved blouse models Of
the fine grades than there were earlier In the
season and, too. there are moro tailored
coats, whlch naturally have long coat
sleeves; but the sleeve reaching only to the
elbow or to three-quarter length is still the
prevailing model.
There is, however, a slight change Creep
Ing into the lines Of this short sleeve, a
change not perceptible In the average
model, but striking the eye In many Of the
latest creations and authoritative Paris
ian sources, and the fashion world Is won.
denng how far the movement will 20. The
extending Of the shoulder line by the little
caplke arrangements running out over
the sleeve tops and cut in one with the
bodice or coa was tho first straw that
Indicated the setting Of tho current, and
gradually this idea has brought about
variations. The pelerine and the scarf
dive long sloping shoulder lines, and II
they find general acceptance, as many
authorities believe they will The frock sleeve
will naturally conform to their lines.
All this, however, is for the future. At
present the sleeves most frequently seen
are the small puff reaching half way TO the
elbow, with an undersleeve or fall of lace,
the puff sleeve reaching almost to the elbow
point, with q little frill Of lace or an under
sleeve Of lace to hide the elbow point, and
the three-quarter sleeve reaching below
the elbow and finished there with q close
cuff. Innumerable variations are rung
upon these general ideas. and draping of
many sdlful kinds adds to the grace Of
the modish little sleeves.
Numerous models open up the outside to
show an undersleeve Of lingerie or lace or
q jabot fall Of lace frilling. In some OF
these sleeves the change Of line which
We have already mentioned Is disoerni-
bic, the outer sleeve being set into the
shoulder with very little fulness and fitting
the shoulders smoothly, but widening in
pagoda fashion below.
One Of the sleeves pictured here gives a
good idea Of these lines. a wide fril on the
under sleeve marking the widest part OF
the sleeve just above the elbow, a ribbon
tying In the under sleeve at the elbow and
two narrow frills Of lace falling below.
The gradual tendency is certainly toward
this pear shape, close at top and widest
jnst above the cuff; but the high shouldered
and balloon shape short sleeve is by no
means elbowed aside, and will at least last
through the summer. It is perhaps not
quite so full at the top as it was earlier in
the season. nor does it set out 30 squarely
at the shoulder, but it is not radically
changed.
Short sleeves formed Of several deep
tills or Of many little frills set ona modified
balloon foundation are much worn and are
particularly pretty with the popular sleeve
less coats. Other frilled models have
several frills Of mousseline or lace set at
the top Of the sleeve and falling like a cap
over a balloon sleeve which finishes at the
elbow In lace frills or a lace ruche. Still
another arrangement Of puff and frill has a
soft short puff at the top reaching not more
than half way to the elbow. and below that
snumber Of lace frills set on a closely fitted
sleeve OF net or chiffon and falling close to
the arm, as illustrated in one Of the sketches.
This very short puff, with comparatively
close lines below, is repeated many times
among the late models, and often deep
close cuffs Of embroidery and lace, tuoking
or other trimming are deeper than the puff
above the cuffs.
For the sheer summer frock the short
balloon sleeve, with a close cuff Of wide
beading. through which ribbon may be
run, and several little frills OF narrow lace
ttopandhottom Of thisb beading, lie a simple
and attractive model; and very pretty
balloon sleeves for sheer frooks have a
double frll Of three or four inch valen-
ciennes running in ruche or double jabot
fashion down the outside Of the sleeve from
shoulder to cuff and then separating to
nun around the sleeve bottom in single
irll.
Fine transverse plating bordered at each
edge by little plaitings or frills makes a
good cuff and many Of the French sleeves
are merely little puffs tied in with ribbon
we'll above the elbow and falling in a little
lnll below the ribbon, over a close little
undersleeve or puff Of lingerie or lace,
covering the elbow point.
Long sleeves follow modified mutton leg
INES, and il the sleeve is formed by a pulled
OF draped upper part combined with a
close mitten cuff Of lace or other sheer stuff,
isis often the case, the puff pust not droop
over the cuff, but be so joined to it that the
gradual gigot curve will be attained.
Long sleeves for sheer tub materials often
nave the long cuff composed entirely OF
'e ontest tucks running around the arm
ana with only q little lace or embroidery
inset Tor a finish at the wrist. Blouses Of