The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-04-12
THE FASHIONS.
Wash Gowns of Beauty-Mercsrlzing Process Perfected-Too Many Bo- lerO suits-EarIy Shoppers.

lero Suits-EarIy Shoppers.
 This year all wash fabrics are soft in finish and mucn less satiny in lustre than last years cottons and linens. The, mercerizing process has been brought to a high degree of perfection, and the best of the thin material are mer- cerized. They have soft chiffon finish which is charming, and are well adapted to the full, clinging styles so popular at present. A number of pret- ty models nave been made with ac- cordion and sun-plaited skirts. Of course, this takes them out of the class of tub gowns, but as far as that detail Is concerned, few elaborate cottons or linens are ever rubbed. The cleaners renew delicate gowns better than the most expert laundress can and the cost of dry cleaning is not excessive. With care, thin gown can be worn a number of times without soiling.
 With thin gowns, a foundation Is very necessary, and a new lingerie piece has come into being. This is the princess underslip in lawn, taffeta, and China silk Pink, blue, yellow mauve, and white slips are to be had, well made and ready to wear The tafteta slips are most desirable and most ex- pensive, from $2O to $So and even more being asked for them. Of course, all the details of these garments are per- feet, even the button flap having a beading of fine French embroidery or lace. Some of the slips are high necked and long-sleeved and are finish ed with a beading and narrow ribbon. Others are low-necked and sleeveless. The China silk slips cost $10 and are rather soft and foppy. Many women prefer them, in spite of their lack of body.
 Most of the model gowns in wash materials are difficult to describe than to say that they have princess skirts, circular or plaited, and are elaborately trimmed with lace. Waists are draped, or else are covered with lace and em- broidery boleros High girdles are all most the rule. However, these descrip- tions are not very satisfactory. A very Individual gown of rose-color and white checked voile was made with full shirred skirt. Two groups of inch wide tucks trimmed the skirts the first group of three tucks appearing above the knee and the second group of five above the hem. The blouse was shlrred below a shallow yoke of Ger man Valenciennes which was bordered with a round bertha collar of Irish crochet. A second bertha collar Of Irish crochet was inset in ttle middle of the blouse, crossing 1t and dis appearing under the sleeves. The sleeves themselves were short puffs shirred at the ends and showing ruffies of inch-wide Valenciennes.
 A very simple gown linen, very thir and sheer, was also tucked The skift was circular and was trimmed with two groups of narrow tucks, between which groups was running design ol shadow embroidery and Danistl HebedC embroidery worked in heavy white thread. The waist was tucked across the middle the sleeve tucks exactly matching those of the waist, and the same white embroidery was used ir the decoration. More embroidery trim. med the front of the waist above ant below the tucks, and line of em broidery outlined the square decollete N under which was worn a lace and em broidefed muslin guimpe. The sleeves were wide and short and had little un dersleeves to the elbow of the guimp material This gown might wasl beautifully.
 ! Not so a gown of pale blue mer cerized chiffon trimmed with multi tude of ribbon ruches. The skirt wa a princess corselet and was very long The ruches were put on in a festool design and there were nine of them The blouse was of handkerchief liner and lace, and charming boler principally Irish crochet, with blacl velvet ribbons to bind it together Tn sleeves of blue chiffon were finishe, with lingerie ruffies.
 A mercerized white material as fin as null and as lustrous, and chiffol made a lovely gown for young girl The skirt was laid in fine tucks owe the hips, and was trimmed at the foo with three very full ruffies. Above tn highest ruff1es was line of narroy Irish lace insertion. The waist was
 surplice effect, two full ruffles heade by Irish lace insertion, forming tn surplice. The ruffles were wider owe the shoulders, and became quite mar row where they crossed at the wais line The heart-shaped opening wa filled in with phffed guimpe, the puff joined by strips of lace insertion. Tn draped girdle, which was wide an pointed in front, was of taffeta.
 Another checked cotton voile, brow and white, is worth describing, sine these Voies are sure to be the yer height of fashion. This one was mad with princess skirt, the corselet par draped from under the arms in som mysterious manner. The skirt wa snug-fitting over the hips and yer full at the hem The lower part of tn skirt was trimmed with three rows C inch wide brown velvet ribbon put O in large scallops. Where each pointe upward small round medallion ( deep yellow guipure was set. Ther was brettle arrangement made wit three rows of the velvet ribbon, joine in several places by two of tRle sma lace medallions. The blouse worn UT derneath was of tinted null trimme with tiny tucks and many insects ( Valenciennes.
 One grows tired of the tight-fittin princess skirt and short bolero stree