Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-19

1t cannot be said that the cooking is in itself
of being well presented and wonderfully well carved
But there is lack of SAVIOR and of salt that would
drive Frenchman to despair There are few
of Importance, and little butter seems to be
the rule in the cooking of vegetables No vegetable,
and of no butter is served through the fashion
able dinner, except as an impressionistic accom-
paniment to the meats, and the meal becomes some
what dry and tasteless as it proceeds.
But Londoners like to eat-it matters not what
and in few hours after big dinner with interim
they again at it-a five-courSe supper which is
above all substantial There none of our giddy
lobster broils preceded by oysters, frzzing
rarebits; but again joints, game, and sweets
Restaurants are numerous along the Strand,
Regent-st. and the various roads leading toward
the suburban districts. They are usually well filled;
for the real hungry people indulge in "snacks,
they call them, on their way; not even the
shortest journey. being undertaken without
luncheon tea basket filled with cold meat and
fowl and other SubStantialS.
Even at the theater the English public does not
stop eating Between the acts, girls pass up and
down the ais1es selling tea coffee, and chocolate,
cakes, and ices. They well patronzed, and
there is odor of food the air. rather than
and sachet Yet the oldest thing is that the Eng
thin; the women almost scrawny, but with COM
plexions creamy and pink as though they Aved on
rose leaves and dew.
London Fond of Food Talks
T ONDON loves to talk about what it eats. 1t even
- jokes about it at the theater@it is passion like
the FrenCh1nanS art m1CrODe and the Americans
money instinct. But the American looks in
wonder, missing the piquancy of oysters, the
splendor of steaks. well the wonder of
our English chops, which cannot get here at
all for all chops are English here just all poodles
are French in Paris.
Both vegetables and fruit are rare in comparison
with the abundance of our American markets.
Strawberries are mammoth in size, and a pineapple
or peach luxury. In place of these there the
substantial desserts, and when these taken
away there is queer little thing they call savory,
an anchovied toast broiled minced kipper.
London takes its time to eat and it is rush when
dinner is through under couple of hours. There
fads in food, and one of them is for brown eggs
in preference to the ighter-colored varieties. So
extreme is this fad that the dealers selling the
London merchants eggs that have been tinted art-
fciay. France sends brown eggs to London by
the thousand, and they sold as newly laid.
The chic French hen seems to understand that
the English hen is, like everything else hampered
by the moist climate, and the pale eggs bring Six
pence less a Dozen
Flowers eggs, which at the French restaurants in
New York bring dollar each and even more, are
served in London with the ordinary before-dinner
relishes. The shell is blue like
a ducks egg, and the contents IS
J. !: i
somewhat similar 1t may be 1900
coincidence that the French hens ~
1ayso many brown eggs, and that "
the practice of tinting the shells ~
also began there. Canada seems q ~"
to have adopted the same farm W yNN@
ing methods, and sends out an g. DST
egg with brown SHE'LL