Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-01

while they are medium size above the ell
bow. A novel effect, and most becoming
one. is given by very narrow collar or
some bright colored velvet, a deep shade or
coral pink or bright blue being thought es-
pecially smart. There need not be any
other color anywhere on the gown or In the
hat but just this little touch in the coat
cellar seems to give an individuality that
Is with reason extremely popular. The
newest taffeta coats to wear with skirts
to match are made in this pony shape, ex-
aggeratedly short, and the great trouble is
that 1t is trying fashion to almost all fig
ures. A woman in truth should be tail ana
slender to look well in coat of this de-
scription However, there are a great many
women who are neither tall nor slender.
and who wish to be dressed In the height of
fashion and to whom this especial style
seems to appeal more strongly than any
other SO that dressmakers and tailors must
needs evolve some solution of the problem,
which they often do with remarkable de-
gree of success. But 1t Is not fashion
to be entered into lightly or unadviSedly.
There rumors to the effect that fash
ION has decreed that within twelve months
there shall be a complete change of style
in 30 far that the tremendous amount OF
embroidery and trimming that Is used will
no longer be required in order to be
gowned after the latest models, but Tor
the present moment 1t would seem as
though this were merely a word OF hope
that was held out for the suffering public,
for very rarely is to be seen any gown of
any material on which there Is not any
amount of lace or embroidery, and the
wraps and Jackets afford especially good
Instances OF this fact. 1t might be thought
that lace in itself or embroidery In itself Is
al. sufficient, but now it is absolutely nee
essary to combine the two-to insert lace
into embroidery to applique embroidered
mecallions on to lace. This really requires
fine work, and hand work at that, although
wonderful results are certainly obtained
BY machine work. The intricacfes of mod
a
present time, as evidenced in this conlbin-
Ing of lace and embroidery.
The fitted silk coats are all more or less
picturesque. They are said to be copied
after different periods of fashion, but It
would be difficult to say what period, and
really they are a combination of several.
The empire fashion of course cannot be
thought of in anything but short, loose
Jacket and even then the straight front
corsets which women still cling to have
little to do with any empire style of dress,
ANY fitted coat or wrap would be too glar-
ing an nconsruity, however, and so the
fitted coats with the long wasted appear
ance must be relegated 10 an entirely diff
ferent style of gown. The directoire coat
is more generally becoming than any other
and is of the few picturesque styles
that seems to be suitable to any age. SO 1t
is not marvellous that II Is seen even in
these days when apparently every possible
effort Ia being made TO introduce the other
style The loose fitting garments, so-called
Jackets or wraps have a tendency to be
rather shapeless but If care be taken to
have the lines follow the lines of the figure
giving IL always more slenderness than 1t
possesses, an extraordinary degree of style
will be obtained that otherwise would be
completely lacking. The Powered silk jack
cts and coats are almost always on the
fitted order. but there have appeared lately
somasvery fascinating little garments made
| after no stated style, but which. composed
OF the Powered silk, seem to be exactly
right to wear with the smartest kind of
| ba tiste or lace frock and which are per-
| haps more on the lines of the fichu or peler-
| inc than of either coat or wrap
| This is the time OF year when the clever