The Washington times., 1906-12-09

ODD NeaNess WHICH also -hou 70 IAcii
novelty.
II houaces are not desired at the bot
tom. trim the gown here with any form
or embroidery or braid or folds desired
only take care TO repeat the skirt trim
ming upon the bodice.
An extremely simple yet distinctly
novel gown Is shown IN figure e. This.
! TOO. comedies a little To Empire lines
In the very shOrt-Waisted front The
Jacket. however, thinks better OF SIS
Empire intentions and slopes sharply
down into a rounded coattail which
reaches below. the hips In the back. 4
novel effect IS given the jacket by means
OF the shawl eject around its top. The
jacket II or dark green velvet with a
turned-bsck shawl collar OF fur This
is never wide at any point and comes
IL a deep rounded point In front The
fur continues around the Jacket In a
naFrow edge.
How to Build Ones Skirt.
Three decorated cloth buttons fasten
! the front OF ehe Jacket over a vest
which Is really part Of the garment.
II is OF q lighter shade OF cloth than
the velvet and may be Ia contrast
ing color II the gown will bear contrast.
II IS embroidered In raised embroidery
and terminates ga a rounded girdIe Il
feet below the coat In front.
Odd short sleges are even more sug-
, gestivs OF the Empire than the coat
They 1T loosely 90 the arm and have
wide turned-up FUR border above a
cum or embroidered cloth
The skirt IS q gored circular A more
practical style Of skirt than the rrg1I-
aaT rsnnarn aH= -. .H-.E-
, at The sides ard is. therefore, not prac-
teal for gowns or walking length.
This skirt is il FTomenace length and
is made with perfect simplicity. save
for the line OF fur down each edge OF
lthe front gore and for the little straps
cut out from the sides OF the gore and
Fastened with a button IN the point of
each 20 the sides OF the skirt
Still another quaint and fashionable
modification OF the Empire gown is IL
lustrated IN figure y. The simplicity OF
Its make IS apparent for al It's elabo-
ration. and the home -dFessmak-r -eed
not be afraid Of Il If she thinks she
can drape the little coat properly. This
is a distinct feature. OF tho gown.
This style Of bolero jacket Is. per
haps. newer than any other. and IL Is
at once practical and quaint in effect.
In this case the material OF which the
coat is built Is striped velvet trimmed
with plate velvet folds and ribbons
The coat is .iR two shades OF blue vel
vet with satin stripe, giving the light
effect TO the shadow lines Of the velvet.
It comes high around me neck at the
back and IS cut IN an open square IN
front. The border OF the neck is slit at
intervals and buttonhOled in the slits.
through which broad black velvet ribbon
is passed. This ribbon passes under
the top edges Of the coat and crosses
in an X IN front, passing I'm a downward
slant through Sits worked underneath
box plests on the front and sides OF the
coat. These pleats are only held down
where the ribbons form a sort OF slant
ing belt effect. which continues ih a
straight line through the Sits IN the
back. The two velvet rosettes, with
teweled centers. trim each side Of the
coat fronts where the ribbons pass
through the material. ana similar ros-
cites decorate the sleeves. The sleeves
are gathered and box pleated just above
the elbow. Here velvet ribbon Is passed
under the box pleats. and velvet fold
edges the ruffle formed by releasing the
fullness Of the sleeve below the ribbon.
A lace cum finishes this dainty little gar
rnent. A rosette may trim the center OF
the back on the bottom of the coat II
one pleases,
The boIero opens to show an en-
brnidsred vest of cloth above a modified
Empire skirt The skirt is of the same
cloth as that which forms the vest and
cuffs 1t is soft and rather full and is
richly embroidered around the lower
portion with a heavY, raised design
worked in coarse embroidery silk, che
Mile and gilt threads. The gilt threads
are re Ieated in the design worked on the
bodice.
tbs model is charming for any sort
of SILK or satin or soft wool dress as
well as for velvets.
The combination Of cloth and velvet is
continually seen this season and women
Of small means take advantage of this
TO iengthen sleeves by the addition OF
deep cloth or velvet cuffs: to add length
and change of design 10 skirts by panels
and plain nounCes ana folds OF the same,
and 20 give high bolero effects to bOdices
by means of sirdles and pinafore pieces
OF either cloth or velvet upon a gown OF
the opposite character.
Copyright. 1906. by ". r. Hearst)
EYpT AMIN