Omaha daily bee., 1906-04-08
EASTERN STYLES FOR MEN
Some Changes in Out that Come with the
New Season.
GREY AND BLUE THE LEADING cOloRS
Coat Collars VIII BE shorter and
Broader, PADDING VIII Ne Less
and Vests VIII Have
Binding.

deep In March snow surveying the summer
muslin displayed in the department store
window, but down in his heart he acknowl-
edges that he, too, with spring days In
sight turns his thought to sartorial har-
bingers, and he SCOTS only from habit and
custom. The well dressed man prlnks even
as does the well dressed woman. She only
prinks more because she has more to prink
with. In these days one finds the man
lingering the fabrics on the tailors tables
or peFusing the style book OF the ready
to-wear house, for in clothes as in business
the prudent and successful man looks
ahead and takes sartorial time by the
collar.
Styles this season are to be many yet
diversified. The only taste that will not be
considered will be the bad taste. Over
coats evening dress, day dress, half dress
business wear, lounge or sporting hablll-
ments, all will show varying points OF style
to meet the varied wishes Of those who,
wear them Beauty and novelty will be
the distinguishing features in all lines
There will be three marked changes in
coats for the spring and summer Of 1906.
The chief of these changes will be shown
in the collar which will Re shorter and
broader opposite the end of the crease.
The 1906 shoulder will not only be slightly
narrower, but will follow more closely
than heretofore the curves of the human
shoulder. Some tailors are putting springs
in shoulders instead Of padding The
spring serves the same purpose as the
padding, but is not so uncomfortable in
warm weather, and though it gives to
pressure II keeps its shape. Following the
shoulder conformation Il will have the
effect Of giving the sleeves more decided
curve at the inside of the elbow than has
been apparent for many years.
The side seams of the double breasted
fTock coat will be much less curved than
last season and the peak of the lapels will
be more pronounced. The skirts will have
a decidedly liberal bell The cutaway
frocR will likewise have straighter side
seams and the skirts will slope away
more than heretofore. The skirts will
round into the bottom more strikingly and
in many patterns will close from one to
two inches lower.
Sack coats of all kinds will be markedly
shorter and will be fuller at the bottom
They will set closer to the waist also
Waistcoats will open lower and the long
cutaway points of the preceding year will
be chopped off a bit. The waistcoat, ex-
cept in departures from what is the APP
proved fashion, will not show above the
coat opening. more shapely leg is TO
be given to trousers and creases will not
be defined so sharply.
The Leading Fabrics.
Gray, which forged TO the front as the
leading color in the spring of 1905, still
retains its grip on the top round, but blue
will share in the most pronounced popular
ity this season and will in a measure re-
gain the laurels 1t lost last year. Those who
Affect the London fashions will select
browns and greens in soft tones.
Worsteds both in dressy and negligee
weaves, will be the favored suitings of the
season so far as materials go. Cheviots,
however, will have vogue for business
wear. travelling, outdoor life and lounging
and blue serges in plain twills and plain
or fancy weaves will be among the much
worn fabrics Fancy suitlngs will be made
up principally in plain mixtures, with en-
livening weaves to relieve the monotone.
Stripes, narrow and broad, will not be
amiss and heavy plaids, while they will be
less in evidence than heretofore, will still
! find favor with many well dressed men.
Small checks, the tailors expect, will grow
in favor. Flannels are going to be worn
for business I'm the heart Of midsummer
more than ever The days when they were
restricted to the tennis courts are over
Fancy waistcoats are still on the top
wave Of popularity and this seasons pat
terms and colorings win present an even
greater variety than last season.
The fabric field for overcoats viii be
greatly enlarged Not only the staple
overcoating fabrics will be used, but almost
every material used for suits will be drawn
on. Gray worsteds in plain. twills and
clearinghouse, small fancy weaves, worsted
cheviots and cheviots will be among the
most widely worn overcoating fabrics.
Styles In OvercOats.
For more than fifty years, save for two
or three intervals Of a season or two each,
the Chesterfield overcoat has been the lead
ing style for general wear, and this spring
finds it more firmly intrenched in favor
than ever The early spring models show
an inclination to return to the style of a
half century, when the fathers Of the
present generation were beaus in the close
fit at the waist and the amplitude OF the
skirt. The roll of this Chesterfield win be
long and wide, with either a peaked or
down slanted lapel. The collar will be
self covered. and the roll will be silk faced.
proper length will be eight Inches more
than half the wearer's height.
The covert coat in these days is hardly
distinguishable by the name that formerly
stood for such distinctive garment More
become an abbreviated Chesterfield. Its
roll. waist shape and finish will be like
those of the Chesterfield. Only in its
length will It differ materially from It's
more popular brother. It will be from
thirty-six to thirty-seven inches long.
The Newmarket and paletot will divide
the honors for dress occasions. Both will
be the same in the back as the dress frock
coat either without center seam or with
the skirt opening continuous with the
center seam. The Newmarket will have
peaked lapels, broad at the top and chest
and tapering to a finished width Of
two inches at the bottom. The front
will close with two buttons from five to
six inches apart, there being only one but
ton hole in each lapel above the closing.
The roll, very long one. will be self faced.
The collar may be Of self material or Of
velvet, and the hip pocket flaps may fall
either from the waist seam or be set below
IL diagonally or straight across, as the
fancy Of the wearer may dictate.
The paletot will be Of practically the same
cut. Both Newmarket and paletOt will
range from nineteen and One-fourth inches
In waist length and from forty-six to nifty
inches in fun length for a man OF average
height The materials may be any that
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