The San Francisco call., 1906-04-01

of trimming a straw hat with a stralgns
fiat band Of velvet. which Is put around
the crown in sailor hat fashion AT Ine
side quill Is thrust through the veiVsl-
This makes a very neat trimming TOT tne
English walking shapes and very neat
decoration for many OF the other conVsn-
tional hats with rather round high crown
And 1t is trimming which IS not SO very
difficult to manage by ones self
Hats that are tilted forward are TO De
worn, and this is a style that is becoming
to most faces. 1t was Mrs: Corneilus
Vanderbilt who walked up Fifth avenue
the other afternoon with black straw
hat trimmed with white The shape was
a round one and the back was lifted high
The hat was bound with white chiffon
velvet and around the crowd there was
plain band of white. At the back there
were two curling white tips. while mass
of white silk and velvet ribbon loops lift
ed the hat well off the head This gave
the pretty tip-tilted appearance that Is so
much admired this season
The hat that is tipped forward Is one OF
the most becoming of the revivals. Few
faces can bear the test Of the hat that IS
tipped back from the face. and there are
few women who look well with the lifted
front brim. The hat that comes Forward
well over the face is by all odds more De-
coming to the majority OF women tnan
the one which is turned back from the
front, and which forces woman TO ao-
NIT every year of her age.
Little wreaths of roses will be worn this
year. They have been in vogue for some
time, but this season they are to be worn
more than ever. Not since the days or
the Empire were wreaths Of roses so
generally seen. Hats Of all shapes from
the stern English walking hat to the
jauntylittle sailor, are worn with WreatnS
of roses around the crown. And there
are dozens of other shapes that quite de-
pend upon them. Some OF the charming
little irregular hats are quite dependent
upon the little wreath Of roses ana the
bunch Of roses at the side.
The Coral Colored HATS.
Most of the shapes this year are
within the reach OF all. and IL Is q
blessed thing for the not-wealthy that
the prettiest hats are among the cheap
est. But when 1t comes to expensive
things one can go very high without
reaching the top
I'VE do not advise our customers 70
spend much money" said q fashionable
milliner, because we feel that va shall
give better satisfaction in the long run
if we go easily and work with what
might be called financial moderation.
And there is another reason for ad-
visIng moderation. Hats this season
are to be numerous. Women must have
two or three with each gown, and this
means, an immense number Of hats by
the time the season Is over.
Take the coral hats. They are to be
numerous as the sands upon tho
seashore, yet so prettily are they
planned that no two repeat themselves
We have just made coral hat for Miss
Gertrude Vanderbilt. and this hat Is one
which she will wear at Newport next
summer 1t is part of coral cloth cos
tune. The hat is white straw tipped
front and trimmed with a great many
coral choux.s The choux are made OF
chiffops OF silk and OF velvet. and they
are massed very high ut the back. The
general effect is of very tall hat. al
though the appearance Is almost en-
tirelya created by the manner in which
the trimming is applied, as the hat Is
not so very high.
I'VE made hat not so very long ago
for Mrs. Letter. 1t was. OF course, a
hat for a dowager, and It's colors were
black and white. But IL was smart
1t was in an Amazon shape. and we
trimmed 1t with black roses. black
choux and black vines. 1t was a hat
for any lady TO wear with a black cos
tune.
I'VE made a most charming hat for
Mrs. Elihu Root. who is one Of the