Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-01

and affects velvet or silk Elton or bolero,
then / think 1t will not be wise to attempt
1t at home, but to give 1t into the hands Of
a tailor.
A covert coat, for instance, could only be
made by professional, and the same may
be said Of the three-quarter tight-fitting
jackets. There Is no reason, however, why
the Norfolk, the Russian blouse, Etons,
boleros, box, long and short, and the tour
list coats should be a failure if one is care
full to follow Instructions and not to lose
patience. 1t will be sorely tried I know
In cutting goods, first being assured that
the cloth is shrunk, supposing that pro-
cess to be necessary, find the nap, then
lay all the pieces Of the pattern the same
perforations call for. This is imperative
or the coat will surely twist and draw
when worn.
Another secret Of the successful coat Is
the amount OF hastings and the careful
pressing II has received at each stage In
addition to the outer material and the lin
Ing. two kinds Of canvas are required, the
French and the tailors', an interlining
sometimes and possibly a little hair CLOTH
Tailors' canvas is used for the fronts and
Is cut exactly as the material except that
beginning three inches below the armhole
seam. the canvas is slanted off to the waist
line. stopping within three inches, or a lit
tie less, of the front edges and then con-
tinuing in straight line to the edge Of
the coat. Thus the coat has the canvas
down the front edges the whole way but
above and below the waist line it is cut
away gradually, because if left there 1t
would crack possibly and SO produce wrin-
kles; the curves. too would not follow
the figure so well either. French canvas
Is used for shaded pieces, about three
inches wide: to be used on the back Of
the coat at the armholes and also at the
neck The coats having the seam from
the shoulders should have the canvas cut
exactly the same shape as the portion Of
front that makes the closing the slanted
piece coming on the second portion Of the
front. Canvas and cloth should not be
taken In one seam, but should be stitched
separately or. rather, the cloth stitched and
| the canvas laid one edge over the other
| and caught down.
To give round shape over the bust
hair cloth Is added. This is cut about two
| inches smaller everywhere than the can
vas, and should end in point about three
inches above the waist line. When in place
| the curve about the waist line take out
| an inverted ". then draw the raw edges
together. and the result will be q rounded
/ bust.
| around and lightly hemmed down to the
| canvas on the edge, padding stitches In
| side This will improve the set Of the coat
undoubtedly. but II It is considered be-
yond the skill of the would-be tailor. 1t
will be better to- omit 1t entirely and de-
pend upon the canvas for stay and effect
| Collars and lapels are difficult to master
Those who can accomplish them will, not
benefited by anything that can say on
he subject and to those who cannot, writ
| .en instructions are worthless so 1t is better
! TO pass on to those details that the anna
teur may accomplish by little helpful
| advice. The nat collarless effect Is not
! tinlcult once canvas is fitted nicely about
the neck neither IL q straight, natty-look-
ing little vest. SO well are the front edges
prepared for 1t. A Tuxedo collar is not
beyond a skillful amateur. and IL a double
breasted closing is desired. this kind OF
finish or a aft band will pc much easier
to accomplish than the mans collar and
look better. too. surely.
The front edges of coats have a way OF
falling back instead Of holding themselves
should do. and to remedy this cut little
slashings inward on the canvas at bust
and overlay the edges until the fronts
cling closely to the figure. as they should
do even when unbuttoned; then gather the
front edges OF the cloth and shrink and
press well. A little padding, II found neces-
sary, may be attempted. Just layers OF
waddiag, thinning on at the edges, beine
placed on the parts needing filling out
II an interlining Is used 1t Is not cut witt
seams as the lining or outer material, bui
one piece Is fitted in the back and one or
each front. and should end three inches OF
so above the waist line. If this lining pull.
| at all Just slash II. connecting the edge.
with basting. The set of the coat depends
| q good deal upon this interlning, and as Il
will not show do not> be spSring of the
slashings.
Other details connected with coat max
ing hope to speak about next time, space
preventing me from finishing the subject
entirely at present