The sun., 1906-02-04

in linen. that is, TO cut skirt and slrdie IN
one. but here again the ravages and dis
tortions caused by laundering mu be
taken into account and the stitched shaped
girdle Of the linen filing in the space left
between skirt and short bolero, Is nicer
device.
With some OF the delightful boleros and
skirts in white, string color and biscuit
linen wide grdes Of old fashioned ere
tonne or chiatz in dull soft colors are used.
This idea was introduced in Paris last year,
and treasure trunks were ranslcked for
veritable antique bits of such stuff which
were used for waistcoats, for girdes, col
lars cuffs or for cut out applique designs
The dull faded tones, whether true antique
or imitation, harmoniae delightfully."- with
neutral tints.
4 trimming employed upon one Of the
loose bolero linen models sketched for the
large picture is decidedly pleasing, as
combination of tailored simplicity and
effective openwork. 1t consists of a
narrow banding Of heavily crochet rings,
or rather rings covered with linen thread,
and may bl. used as an inset insertion or
border. In the model this trimming bor-
ders bolero, sleeves and skirt OF e linen
exactly the same biscuit color as the trim
ming, and is moreover inset in the skirt
Coarse crochet insertions of the oluny
order are used even upon very sheer mate
rails and often in narrow widths produce
the effect of handstitctery dore with
coarse linen thread upon the material itself
United with this coarse veinng OF crochet
may be the very finest and most delicate of
hand embroidcries and valencicnncs lace.
Valenciennes is to be as popular as ever
but embroideries are well to the fore, and
the most characteristic feature Of the new
embroderies is, az we have Indicated, the
introduction of lace motifs, usually valen-
ciennes or baby Irish into the design
the embroidery, whether very fine or very
heavy, being made to frame effectively the
bits of lace.
Now is the time to obtain tho choice
designs in valencienncs lace and in en-
broideries and the woman who waits is
foolish, for each sea son there is the same
experience of a picked over stock and
small choice.
Fortunately for those who cannot afford
to put great amount Of money into lace
and embroideries for trimmir the thin
wash frocks, Of which one needs plentiful
sary that such frock should have applied
trimming upon the skirt. AS matter Of
course, many models have skirts elaborately
trimmed with inset lace bands. medallions,
embroideries, &C., but, on the other hand,
the tendency toward plainness of skirt OBJ
served in the winter frocks is running over
into the coming season and one sees some
of the very prcttiest new voiles, silks,
cottons, DC, trimmed only in self tucks
A surprising variety is brought about
by the grouping Of these tucks. There is
the deep Spanish founce with two inch
or three inch hem and tucks OF the same
width spaced regularly ovei the whole
depth Of the hounce. similar tuck drops
over the head Of the founce and three Others
are set on the skirt above the rufIle 80 that
the effect is that Of skirt tucked at regular
intervals half way to the waist line.
Another skirt alternates de.p single
tucks with groups of three small tucks and
In some cases the deep tucks OF this model
are ordered by frils Of narrow valen-
ciennes. Flat trimming Of groups of tucks
alternating with bands of embroidery or
lace are numerous.
A simply tucked blouse with trimming
oflGce or embroidery, or both in some form
on yoke and collar and upon tho short
sleeves is the usual accompaniment Of the
tucked skirt, and sometimes a deep collar
or berthe arrangement is used. One es-
pecially good trimming OF this latter type
was a feature Of very successful frocs
Of pink null and lace which is pictured
among the cuts and which might easily
be copied, even by the home dressmaker.
ThN princesse frock has received due