The San Francisco call., 1906-06-17

able than last year. Ane SAOt
skirt IS essential TO the happiness OF
e,-erv woman. To 60 about in the
morning or to come into town for the
Fav's shopping or for travelling. yacht
ire or any out-of-door sport. the short
skirt is far smarter than the long one.
This sounds like a very sweeping state
naent but none the less II Is 1act
that late in the season as II Is 10 nave
costumes made up, still at this moment
there are no end OF exceedingly smart
costumes being turned out and all with
the short skirt BE il understood that
these are not the elaborate gowns that
are worn for afternoon or for evening.
but are intended for practical use. The
majority of women realize that for
travelling in and out of town on trains
there is no sense in the long sweeping
skirt. and after all il IS what is suit
able in these days that is pre-eminently
fashionable
All sorts and kind Of material go
into the construction OF the short cos
TUNES. No longer is il necessary to
choose with great care a material that
viii prove equally serviceable for coat
and skirt SO much has the art Of
dressmaking and tailoring advanced
that it is taken for granted that any
fabric chosen must, of course, be made
up to look well The heavyweight
cloth is not to be thought of for hot
weather. and neither is the heavy
weight serge comfortable to wear. but
there are many weights Of cloth and
serge that would seem especially well
adapted for cool days in summer, and
they are consequently included in the
list Homespun is q faVorite material
also. and although il looks warm il Is
ia reality-thst is. the quality that is
fashionable nova delightful summer
material for the mesh is open so that
the air can pass through, and even for
The hottest DAYS a coat and skirt of
homespun seem to come into play.
WHITE wOOLEN GOWNS.
Cheviots and tweeds are too heavy
FOR most summer weather, but in these
materials as in all others there are
many different grades of weight, and
these gowns are not so impossible as
might be imagined. The most eXpen-
siVe qualities are the coolest. although
they are 50 light in weight as TO be
rather deceptive, as they possess more
warmth than a material that appar-
entity is twice as thick. When the
serges are used the rather finer cords
are preferred this year, because the
heavier ones have been more assOciat ted
with winter wear. Plain cheviots. that
is. plain color. are used for yachting
gowns and for such purposes generally.
while the serges are made up into
travelling gowns or into the everyday
rune bout suits, SO 20 speak, that have
the smart little coats. with colored
waistcoats having fancy buttons. White
serge and white homespun are in great
demand. for il is as much a fad as ever
TO have several white costumes and
simply 20 cary the model or the trim
ming.
Mohair. plain and figured. yelling and
taffeta silk all are immensely fashion
able and are used for the short cos
tunes whether plain or elaborately
fashioned and are made up on pre-
cisely the same lines. There was a
time when mohair was not used for
coats or waists. but any difficulties in
manufacturing * Of soft enough fin
ish TO make il possible for either pur-
pose have quite been done away with,
and indeed il is one of the most fash
iOnable materials OF the mome. Z Veil
ings Of ali kinds and descriptions are
also used for coats and skirts TO be
worn with separate waists or with
waists of the same-by separate waists
being understood the elaborate lingerie
o blouses that are so essential in the
wardrobe Of every woman.
SHORT JACKETS STILL POPULAR.
As the season advances it might be
thought that the reign of short jackets
would come TO an end and that once
again long coats would make their ap-
pearsnce, but as yet the line is sharply
drawn between the long coat that is
now Indispensable 10 wear over the
smart gown and the same little Jacket
that can be fas fanciful as the heart
OF dressmaker can possibly devise.
There is. indeed, an endless variety in
the packets to be worn with the mod
arm
called. Etons and boleros, but have
very little likeness to the fashions that
We're originally known by those names.
The elbow sleeves are omniprssent and
although many of the newest coats are
made up with long sleeves, there has
not as yet any shape made its appear
ance that has proved attractive enough
10 send the short sleeves ont of fashion.
IT seems a pity that any style of this
sort should be sent broadcast over the
country when it is certain to come to
an untimely end at any moment. but
Tor the time il il most popular and
possesses one advantage, that il is de-
hghtfully cOOl-sO cool. in fact. that
ther is no excuse for a woman going
about without a coat OF some kind. for
with coat lined with India silk worn
over lingerie blouse only the most
tropical OF weather could make il good
style for woman to be seen in shirt
sleeves.
An attractive fashion this season in
these short costumes is seen in the col
ored waistcoats or fancy fronts that
are in marked contrast TO the color or
the material Of the coat The emb-sid-
cry on these fronts is sftea most ex-
quisite in design and color and adds
Immensely 10 the beauty OF the cos
tune, while again the fashion of white
Waistcoats or fronts is to be noted as
being extremely becoming and attract
I've. These waistcoats transform a sim
pie costume into quite an elaborate
one For instance. a blue mshair or
serge that is simply made can, by the
addition Of a fancy wafstcoat look like
much more. elaborate gown than if
the waistcoat were omitted
White cloth fronts, without any trim
ming and showing just at the edge of
the coat, are, as a rule. very becoming.
as are also those made OF white silk
ana moire, trimed with rufnes of psr-
row yellow lace put on very fat II a
strong contrast in color is desired. then
the Persian embroidery can be used or
some selid colsr, such as a deep rose
or yelleW- This. with fancy buttons
completely transforms the Jacket II
VIII be noticed that this style is useS
on All materials. whsther they be heavy
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