The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08

the conspicuous things about the summers
modes; and this color is used in all the deli
cate shades, Gs well as in deeper French rosa
tones and warm coral tints. Green. too.
in the cooler shades, finds much favor;
and all white will be more popular than
ever, thanks to the mania for lingeris
frocls.
A large number of lingerie models from
Corne, the head and front of such art in
Paris, are shown with the other fro cks -
which mention has been made, but desCrlp-
ton of a lingerie frock is waste Of words. \
Corn6 model must be studied carefully II
one wishes TO obtain any idea OF its con-
struction, for the charm of the creation ia
not 40 much in line as in the marvellou,
detail, the wealth of tiny hand tlcks and
hand embroidery, the intricate insctting -
lace, the minute shirrings and cordings &c.
The c~ostliest frocL simplicity on record
is attained in these lingerie frocks. and not
only Corne but every other great drossmaher
is trying his hand at such models. Maurice
Mayer, noted as the originator of the COM
bination laces and past master of the art q
combining embroidery and laces Of many
kinds in one harmonious whole, is designing
some Of the handsomest all white models Of
the season.
White mousseline de sole is his ~favorlta
fabric, though he does not confine his
choice to that material, and one Of the
most striking features of his new models,
as illustrated at the Broadway exhibit, ia
the elaborate and effectively bold raised
embroidery in coarse white silk floss, which
is used in profusion on the sheerest Of
materials and often in connection with
the finest of laoes. although both heavy
and fine lace is ordinarily included in the
designs of this artist.
Apropos Of bold embroideries, handsome
silk and chenille embroideries in the color
Of the materials upon which they are used
adorn some of the smartest frocks in wolfe,
grenadine, sheer silk, &c. Silk Coral de-
signs made by applying full petals,
foliage and tendrils of soft silk upon the
frock material are more than ever in Use.
but the embroidery ia most often in the
tone'of the foundation material.
This one tone idea is noticeable in a
large majority of the best imported models,
contrasting colors BEING introduced in very
slight touches, merely by way of relief.
It is in this matter of putting exactly the
right bit of color in exactly the right spot
that the wonderful color sense of the French
asserts itself, and that our own dressmake~
usually lack INSPIRATION ana oTlRlnlilty,
and it would be a good thing for any dress
maker to take to heart the color hints
given by a large display of Paris models.
Returning for n moment to the topic Of
the high relief appliqus embroideries,
there is a Beer evening frock that deserves
mention and illustrates the possibilities
Of this embroidery in gold and silver gau2e.
White mousseline de sole is once more the
r,atnrio1 sn1a1tal nrl a., live. =, .;r,
pllicity itself, but the frock gets great
individuality from a bold design of poin.
settia, executed in gold and silver gaule
upon the bottom of the skirt and in one
large spray among the soft laces on the
bust.
In any other coloring or with any further
elaboration, this idea would nave been
barbaric rather than chic, but as it is, the
model is as dainty as it is original, and even
the conservative woman would not find
it too conspicuous or extreme.