Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-03
TAILoR-MADE TERRoRS.
Fearful and Wonderful Clothing of
the Gilded Youth.

1.-THE longcoated, broad shouldered. bal
loon-trousered, fierce-colored Maitland gild>
ed youth Of today Is an article that gives
US old beaus of a generation back the
creeps when we meet him. said one of the
latter species Of the genus SWELL with evil
dent nervousness and apprehension, to q
Star man.
THE jump from the short to the long
sack coat was as sudden as 1t was star
Ting. Usually this graduation Of the length
up and down in the styles is gradual, the
tailors being content with couple of
inches or so season. enough to make che
modification apparent but this summer they
have gone the limit, and not only in length.
but In breadth and fullnees, while the width
of shoulder that some of the narrow chested
young blades can show, thanks to an un-
limited allowance of cotton batting and
hair cloth, puts pugilistic widths and angles
to the blush.
1T is upon the short youth that we old
'uns gaze with admiration and awe. Tho
prevailing styles call for coats which are
two sizes too large and trousers six times
as wide as formerly, with cuff at the bot
tom. When one of these little shorties,
who was sawed off at an early age and
never afterward spliced out. ambles along
with his soft hat turned up in front a la
broncho buster and pulled way down over
his collar in the back after the mode of the
ancient mariner, with his coat cut down to
an inch above the knee. his balloon pants
rolled four inches above his threatening
low quarter Shoes displaying rainbow hued
half hose fills Us with alarm lest the fire
department turns out, we old chaps feel like
taking to the woods and giving the palm
to the young sprout of the day without pro-
test as to past generations.
"On tall, thin men, however, the prevail
ing loose effect is an Improvement Tailors
will tell you that as a rule thin men do not
have their clothes made ample enough, and
that where they are made slightly full the
angularity of the figure is concealed. 1t is
best not to try to fit the form in thin men,
but to give a little artificial fullness. al
lowing the clothes to hang a bit 1t is the
differentiation on this important point In
mems apparel that marks the really we'll
dressed man over the other fellow, yet very
few realize it.
'On the other hand, the stout man will
go in for 'skin-tight fit hoping to reduce
his bulk, and here Is where he makes his
great mistake, though 1t is quite useless to
argue with the plump gentleman on this
point as 1t Is wasted time to tell the fat
lady that she looks third larger in white
than in black and twice as broad in plaids
and squares in plain material or In
stripes. Tight clothes stout man ac-
centuate his avoirdupois and bring the
convex portions of his rotund form into
greater evidence than were he to wear the
easy fit that the man of average weight
seems to have the good sense to adopt by
instinct.
There is consolation about the sack
coat of today, however, and that Is that
the extremists can't make 1t any longer I'M
less it drags on the ground. 1t will have
it's day with this fall. with It's absurd little
presSed-out creaSeS at the side vents which
never had the least bit of reason for ex
listing, and perhaps happier medium will
take its place.