New-York tribune., 1906-12-16

Paris. December T.
The most remarkable thing about Paris fashions
at the moment is the fad for wearing short gowns
sn the afternoon. 1t must be looked on only as
fad for the greater part Of the women dressed
enjoying the comfort of their carriage or auto
mobile and therefore the short skirt is unneces-
sary The great middle class. who must walk
while shopping trips is still too conservative 70
wear anything save a skirt which would drag II
81 were not carefully held UP. Perhaps the idea
Will filter down 10 this class day. but, then,
nlasi it will no longer be fashion.
Nevertheless. for the moment the French tailors
are making afternoon costumes along these lines.
and furnish suggestions Of particular value 10
Americans who have long adopted-in fact, started
the fashion OF dresgy short skirt costumes: A
because II uses a delicate silk embroidery
eni because IL is neither fitted habit nor short
waisted veste. The material is broadcloth in dun
gray. The skirt clears the ground and is full at
.he hem but close about & the hips where some OF
fhe psaS about @ The hips are little % bias las pieces
stamps of good tailoring. There are two narrow
bias bands at the hem The jacket closes in
box front 70 about four inches below the waist.
der silk in a heavy arabesque design, and some Of
the embroidery is used the coat collar. This is
o dark S @ % has In Se back 5es fhs ooat fns Is
shorter than in the front and is siashed to above
q paletot. A coat cut in this fashion be
demands it. The changeable Paris winters make
the waistooat a most popular garment. There are
of ali are those OF fine suede or chamois.
PRETTY MODES FOR GIRLS.
The latest OF charnois leather is for petit
coats. These are not at all bulky. are warmer
than two or three ordinary pettcoats and are also
light in weight The leather is dyed any color, and
trimmed with taffeta founces TO correspond 1t
doesn't sound at all coquettish but by petticoat
now one really means the short drop skirt 10 the
dress.
a,eW
which have zen observed Of late is the increased
care given L the dressing Of girls in their
girl beyond her convent uniform and perhaps one
SUM gown generally clumsy in line and sombre
10 r9se beyond ihe glories Of pink tulle or white
in society is gowned with almost as much care,
one might say, as is her mother, and even school
girls have pretty gowns.
4 dressnaker who caters only to children and
OF fifteen or sixteer. The gown is Of pastel blue
cashmere cloth, and at the foot are four narrow
shapea n9HhcsS or cloth piped witn satin in the
same shade. The gown has straps over the shoul-
dseonetage II hangs straight, front and back,
curve OF the waist The "a underboTse 5lo Is nF some me
ecft stuF-mpusseline de sole or crepe-in the same
fashion for girls Ait little yoGnger 'T from ten to
thirteen; consists of gown . and nd long coat long @
soft soft pastel :, shades "a are generally used and the
Now thai every Vi one has ceased a to lax Of the
First Empire and the modes Of the periods of Louis
forical period must be called on to provide inspira
0n TO n he saDa sTana aOufgeTs 20 sen GGWns e ys
i, Ior ms class OF costume the renaissance idea
considerable variety and the features which seem
70 be called cut now are the long sleeves growing
shoulders; and perhaps the small square decolle-
S on eose s ene ats S eow aye been On mage @
inside OF the arm. but half concealing it when the
many gowns. and they are long and fun. falling
shoulders
and II some cases meeting ing under the arms These
THE "FLoU' A PROMINENT NOTE.
There IS an unusual amount of self-toned trim
ming used this A model which one sees re-
peated often IS velvet costume in taupe thistle
color both fashionable embroidered in fine braid
and chenille in the same tone bolero is rarely
a gown OF this sort and the best liked model
knees, or shorter, IL that be more becoming. There
sre Ds S y9Se anS Ss See set INTO the sieeyes
Ike corduroy which is much liked for costumes
rect form for visits are those composed OF velvet
p habits with skirt Of monssel:ne de sole or Greek
A96srsine and old and other Shades in these
Among the winter stufrs IS a cloth With mat
saIfane IKE @ flannel II has the advantage of not
20 be as handsome either satin faced or pastel
n ses a9 spe is ,les s in
chic IL not artistic in its arrangement of coIors
e red k cea1s eask he lines ON
and Is trimmed with pattern made Of bias bands
of the stuff and lines Of stitched black satin The
half-htted vests falls to the hips and has tiny
SsSt % black satin. ornarnented with small gold
passernenterie ornaments showing the three colors
found IN the stun. This model comes from one of
the really exclusive places the Rue de la Paix
and IN spte OF its bixzare appearance It as good
style the self trimmed velvet costumes Described
above Black trimming IS used a good deal this
season. more than IL has been since the fashion
from exaggeration fell into disrepute seasons
one OF the mort successful evening gowns this
winter Is tie princess. Of black velvet, trimme.
with waite tule or lace about the square decol-
By introducing long Renaissance sleeves OF white
ebout The aecolletase is draped with a large iet
ornament with hanging ends.
To be quite correct the two piece costume should
be ecconlaniec by blouse, unless IL be a morning
walking suit when q lingerie blouse or a white
cheuieette with linen collar Is correct For the
afternoon something more nearly a part the cos
tune is required The tinted laces come in well
hersi and sometimes white or cream lace Is en-
froloered with the oolors shown in the costume.
A1ythinx. slmost, except the all white blouse Is
eustabe The white note is good naturally near
poYessipe de sole the color Of the costume en-
broidsrsf with white end inset with white lace.
RNeY,thng .s On he princess line now-that is the
genera! scaecae OF The gown should continue from
f4s collar 70 tne hem OF the skirt
! For the coming months undoubtedly the '.fou''
lfe TO pc .he prominent note Everything will b.
1oosA biouse, skirt ana sleeves. without gSng back