The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-04-05
THE FASHIONS
Spring Openings i'm All the shops- Models of Elaborate Gowns-New Hats in Great Demand.

hats In Great Demand.
 Spring opening in all the shops caused show windows to blossom like the rose during this week It is hard 70 know where to begin to describe the many beautiful models in gowns waists, hats and chiffons. Nowadays there is so little difference between winter and summer clothes, except as Tar as street and wraps are concerned fhat shopping goes on all the year round, and there are always plenty of purchasers as soon as new gowns and hats are offered Already one sees as many straw hats and roses on the streets as velvet and feathers In the shops so many women are buying light gowns that shopping is 8 matter of great patience. While waiting to be served one has an opportunity to study the changes which have taken place in the world of fashion since the last openings.
 In a general way these have been de- scribed before in these columns The princess mode, Directoire and Empire lies are still the height of fashion Street gowns, afternoon and reception gowns, evening gowns, long coats, wraps, all give one impressions; long graceful lines from above the waist to the hem; short sleeves and indistinct waist-lne. Colors are exquisite, posi- tive without being vivid.
 Looking at display of elaborate costumes one was fascinated with a crepe de chine gown in a deep rasp- berry pink shade. The long skirt was sun plaited and was quite untrimmed The bodice had a collar and shallow pointed guimpe of white baby Irish lace and a shaped yoke of guipure lace dyed to match the gown color This yoke was series of large dia- mond-shaped pieces fitted together and trimmed with narrow ruches, Below 1t the waist was draped very full from under the arms and pointed in deep girdle in front, The sleeves were large elbow puffs trimmed with ribbon ruches put on in a wreath design.
 Another lovely gown was a pastal green chiffon, voile combined with cream-colored net. The long full skirt had double box plaited panel down the front and back the rest of the skirt was trimmed with two groups of hand-run inch wide tucks the upper group high on the skirt. Between them was inset a wide insertion of cream colored net covered with fancy design of green, outlined with small black silk French knots. The boero showed a guimpe of cream lace, and was held in double box plait down the front. The plait was trimmed with small gilt buttons, and the same ap- peared as a decoration on the high princess girdle The bolereo was trimmed with tucks and a narrow in sertion of the net with the flower de- sign in crepe.
 This use of net and lace in combina- ton with more substantial gown materials is favorite fashion. One sees taffeta gowns solid skirts and net boleros overlaid with bands of the silk. Even cloth afternoon gowns are so treated. A chiffon broad-cloth in one of the deep wine shade bordering on purple was made with tight fitting princess skirt and bolero which was sHcru lace edged with a double border of composed of diamond shaped pieces of inch wide velvet ribbon, with strip of the broadcloth between the rows. The points of two diamonds met in the centre and were apparently fastened by a bow and long ends of the velvet ribbon. Above the bolero was deep yoke of the ecru lace, with velvet lines sllowing in the collar. The skirt had row of The lace and velvet above the deep hem.
 Lace dresses grow more and more luxurious and more and more beautiful. In these too are seen many ingenious X and unexpected combinations of mater ial. One handsome gown shown this week had a foundation of figured net (which was almosa lost in the wealth of decoration lavished upon 1t, Down the front and back of the long skirt was carried a wide penel of heavy appli- qued lace and from the front panel ran two shaped founce of exquisite batiste embroidery. There was blouse of the all over lace, which was worn under bolero of the heavy lace and batiste embroidery.
 Gowns of Cluny or Irish in which the lace appears as a sort of a tunic or overdress to satin or crepe founda- tion are admirable. One of these was of baby Irish lace over amber yellow satin. The lace overdress reached to the knees in front and was mucRa longer in the back The edge was made in square scallops all ground. A very wide bodice girdle of satin ap- peared under the short lace bolero, and collarless guimpe of Valencienne ruffies and narrow beading finished the gown at the throat. The sleeves were of Irish lace, trimmed with narrow rufi1es of Valenciennes.
 Those women who are able to stand the somewhat trying short jacket or shorter bolero, may take comfort in the reflection that they will appear in the height of fashion. A prncess or corselet skirt and fancy bolero over handmade lingerie waist, will be the most inodish form of street gown as seen as warm weather comes. Some of / the boleros are excessively trimmed and decorated, even when the skirt is quite plain. A dark red cloth model had a circular skirt with an inverted plait down the front and no trimming at all The skirt was laid in the tiniest of pin tucks over the hips, and there was very high 1raped girdle or corse- let with q narrow crushed belt fas- tened witfs an old buckle. The bolero