The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-09-26

| New Blouse bShceA'S C"AAA"Au' A
 Materials-OnIy Two Distinctive | styles i'm the Autumn Headgear.
 Lightweight silks that is, the soft taffetas, Chimes, and Oriental weaves, are enjoying a vogue of unusual popu- larity this fall, every second or third woman one meets on the street being thus attired.
 They are very pretty, too, these silk en gowns and for all their numbers, cannot become common, for each is made with some little touch of smart ness that distinguishes it from the others.
 Tn spite of the protests from Paris we are glad to note that these and all other gowns except for the most august occasions are made walking length, l and although the hems may be let down later on when the frocks are worn exclusively in the house or under heavy coats, it is pretty clearly demon- strated that the round or walking skirt will share honors equally with its sweeping sister,
 As for the silk gowns just mentioned they are excellent investments since, like muslin, they are "in'' and one may not have too many, Even if a trifle out of date shrr or bit of braid, a jabot or frill, any one of thousand | touches, and presto! a gown of the period. The newest craze is the pima fore, an exact duplicate of that worn by children and donned usually over Ia lace or lingerie blouse. Like all other l designs it permits of infinite variation, and depends upon original tatse for in- l dividuality The neck may be cut out | in a simple round effect, it may show
 a wide-spreading V-shape or again it | may take unto itself more elaborate lines. One exceptionally chic model of moss green peau de cygne is cut away in a straight line at the shoulders, ab- ruptly turning into a curve in front. lStraps of quarter-inch velvet ribbon
 attached by tiny gold buckles to hold | the pinafore over the shoulders, and three similar straps are stretched horizontally across the sleeve. Each
 strap has a straight little bow in it's centre. There are clusters of minute tucks across the front following the lines of the yoke, and more velvet straps are laid across these, the centre group being some two inches below those at the sides. The same effect is
 carried out in the back. Very little lother than self-trimming is necessary with these light silks, and generally
 speaking they lend themselves very adaptably to any of the designs for mulls or other soft materials. The
 bias band of varying widths is the
 favorite skirt trimming buttons velvet,
 silk covered or metal and narrow vel
 vet idea to be considered is the fit,
 which must be perfectly smooth over
 nc matter how many or manifold the
 gathers and frills or plaits. Almost in
 variably the girdle is fashioned of the
 gown material, not more than two or
 three inches wide of soft folds of silk and curved to the waist line In the
 house these dainty little gowns are go- l HE lO llB ul6 6AltIlolNOly all Nltlltl, anu
 it will be a matter of pure economy to
 purchase from among the bargains
 now being offered Even remnant of
 say ten yards, will answer for one of the pinafore effects, and any woman at
 all given to fashioninG her own gowns
 should be able to turn out something original, and really smart by having
 some one merely to cut and fit for her. The petticoat is an important item in connection with these soft silk gowns,
 and for the most part, a dainty, frilly while one is preferred to the silk one, Or at least, Is worn atop the silk , skirt. This is a point of rejoicing for : the silk skirt never was and never could be as fascinating as a pretty
 petticoat of sheer white lawn and lace or course the latter is more expensive
 on account of laundry bills since it
 must never be worn the least bit soiled
 but those who can afford it are barring the silk skirt altogether and those who cannot afford the luxury of the ex-
 quisite French underwear have hit up- on a very satisfactory substitute They purchase at one of the sales a reason ) ably fine skirt at two or three dollars, , a bolt of lace and ribbon, and add some furbishing to suit. themselves. A ; smashing big bow of wide satin in front is being effected, also choux of
 knotted bebe ribbon with knotted ends Rosettes of lace with ribbon centreq are pretty, and festoons and garlands } of soft, pliable ribbons are used over the 1ounees.
 It is decreed that the separate blouse shall not leave us for yet another sea
 son at least, and designers have been at their wits end to gives us some thing new and original. So. as a result
 we have two decided innovations; the combination of silk and lingerie and oi plain and fancy silk, neither of which is as charming as the blouse of one
 material However we must have
 change, the new modes will no doubt find their need of praise. Plain Japa
 nese silk and embroidered null mad up of these models recently noticed
 The plain silk formed the bodice popel and the embroidered null yoke, GU
 straight at the side midway between . teh shoulders ath, in a simple conven D tiapa1 dasipn al thp 1owar adoa Ale,