New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1906-01-07
Paris, December %.

One sometimes wonders TO what extent the
custom of taking afternoon tea in public res
+s,1rants will be carried. Many women are be
ginning TO declare that the publicity involved III
freuuenting these places at the Fashionable hour
,r ,nnIeasant and that the demand on Paris now
is for the afternoon tea room where everything
will be of the best but where one will not neces-
sarily be forced TO dress in formal array. 1t Is
= fact that the Paris papers which make a
feature of social items carefully record the
names and describe the costumes Of those seen
in these restaurants with much attention as
4bev would give in reporting a fashionable re-
ception or wedding
Certainly the tea hour in Paris can no longer
he looked upon as restful time. after hours
of weary shopping. but as the important event
of the afternoon, for which one must De care
fully curled, groomed and gowned Moreover
the custom is doing away with all social Hfe
in the late afternoon; it is useless TO call on d
friend. for she is sure to be taking tea at some
five o'clock and it is also useless to try 10
do much entertaining on ones own account
.,r.a ,,aonIe nrefer TO meet another down
town The defenders of the tea room fad say
that If is less expensive both in time and money
and far more pleasant than having an al hoihe
dav while those who oppose the custom lay
great stress on the fatigue and even NuISarlly
Of the dressing involved. Certainly, as 1t STANDS
present modes
There is no halt in the tendency toward prln-
ass lace and indeed one may expect this fash
ion to be carried into spring and summer gowns.
But Directoire lines. with the exception of the
high belt. appear to be growing demode, for
skirts are more voluminous and more elabo-
safely trimmed about the hem than has been the
case for some time.
The tailor who originated the fashion of trim
ming a Directoire gown with shaped shingles
from the knees to the hem is now showing an
other model built much the same lines. Inc
front of the skirt is left plain. which makes II
more becoming to the average figure, and only
the hack and side breadths are trimmed with
the SHAPED fiounces. This throwing out Of the
hem of the skirt calls for looser lines from the
shoulder and therefore small pelerines and loose
collars are having considerable vogue. If one
does not care for the dropping shoulder line
and there is every choice allowed one in this
,nat+er-a fashionable substitute for the Shout
der nelerine is a collar square behind. like
sailor collar with stole f1chu ends. This is
worn as second garment or as part of the cos
tune
The prettiest gowns seen in the afternoon are,
after all the simplest forms Of cloth princess
Gowns worn with short fur garments. The dyed
furs are In favor, and often form a part OF an
attractive "get-up' as, for example, costume
of mouse gray cloth with caracul bolero dyed
the same shade. The fur jacket has 4 vest of
male blue cloth with straps of the cloth lying
over a cream lace collar The short sleeve ends
with an extension cuff of the fur and depasse-
,nent of lace and cloth. The gown is trimmed
with considerable lace dyed the same shade.
The craze for velvet gowns does not prevent
1be success of a great many costumes in glace
silk This material seems to call for the more
>-olurainous skirts which. although made with
out set Wristbands, flow out stiffiy from the hips
The decoration takes the form Of festoons of
small T1Ifffes. or Of velvet or cloth bands
ranged in a Greek key pattern. Black taffeta
SILKS trimmed in this fashion and worn with
heavy black furs form interesting costumes.
GOWN worn at the Ritz yesterday was of French
green velvet the skirt by means full but
made in four etages. An original feature was
added TO the corsage by fiehu of Chantilly lace
Owed the same tone of green and trimmed with
-1,c1ings of black velvet. The guimpe left eX
.osed was of white lace slightly embroidered in
a,ack The hat small toQue of green
velvet trimmed with roses, and the furs con-
sisted of an immense boa and muf Of white fox
This, fur has become wonderfully popular and.
what is more, seems TO be almost universally
becoming.
Curious shades Of red are appearing among
sbe new model gowns, and IL is reported sthat
these colors VIII be popular in the spring. An
actress at the Athenee is wearing Paquin
gown of strawberry pink velvet with the IN
trimmed skirt hanging in loose folds from the
waist There is a high girdle. and above this
closed blouse shirred with the head Of the
sbirr,ng dropping slightly over the belt. Closing
This lust above the waist line. is a stiff bow
- gray satin and four gold buttons. The