The evening times. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1906-1914, 1906-09-27

Striped silks, cut on the bias and
piped with little featherbone cord
ing, are being used to excellent results.
To peep forth either edge Of nuns
fold, to border strappings, to edge
pleats. trim collars and cuffs, strap
waistcOats, ETC., are some of their mis-
sions, and when the color contrast is
cleverly selected quite an elaborate air
can be achieved on simple frOck with
such assistance.
The wherewithal that one shall cover
the arms is bound to be vexed ques-
ton in the determining of the lines
of costume this coming season. The
dressmakers in Paris are advocating
sleeveless dresses. There are some
that display half sleeve, and there
are models on view in which the sleeve
is carried in an exaggerated fashion
down in mitaine shape over the hand,
the thumb being slipped through lit
tie loop provided for just this purpose.
And between this last and the sleeve
less mode one can take any choice.
1t would look as though the sleeve
less mode were to have quite run,
II one is to Judge from the preparations
made in high class houses to meet its
requirements. Lingerie sleeves, lace
sleeves, and even fussified chiffon
sleeves, are already on view to favored
customers. 1t is to be noted in this
connection that such articles are all
of French make; that not stitch
of machine work enters into their
making, and that there is usually
rather scant puff at the top and q
reasonably close fit from there to the
hand.
Where the separate sleeve is used
there is usually sleeve cap, an epau-
lette or some other shoulder elabor-
alton in the dress, so that the man.
date of broad shoulders, small waist
and slender hips is not interfered
with. The sleeveless style does cut
more than little from ones natural
shoulder breadth, unless especial pains
be taken to broaden it out, and so
the natural balance fthe figure seems
a trifle askew.
Collars are much higher in the re-
cent arrivals, and there is tendency
to bone them firmly nuder the ears at
the back and with still another rod
inserted on each side between these
two points. When it is considered that
upon the shape, size and set of the
collar SO much depends-the face and
the chapeau can both be unpleasantly
affected by a badly boned or fitting
collar-it seems odd that the average
dressmaker pays SO little attention to
this important point.
Since those uncurled plumes de-
mand a length and righteousness of
flue to make them at all presentable,
it is not at all likely that they will be-
come any too popular just at present,
their cost being considerably in ex-
cess of the curled kind. The willow
plume is being pushed considerably,
and here the uncurled tip does not
seem so forlorn and bedraggeld. A
pretty effect is oftentimes gained in
the knotting on half way in it's length
of a f1ue of another color. For ex-
ample, long plume in black has
flues of brilliant royal blue knotted
on; pale blues show lavenders and IL
laos knotted through, and white
plumes are mated with almost every
color on the card.
Pipings are making a strong bid for
favor, and one sees them in all sorts
OF new and attractive connections.
While it is hardly piping in one
sense of the word, very effective work
is being done with thick and heavy
cable cords covered with silk. The
covering is not shirred or wrinkled on
as heretofore; it lies quite smooth and
fiat. and the cord-it is as thick as
ones thumb in its smaller presenta-