The Washington times., 1906-05-06

matches or contrasts with the gown |
with which it is worn.
One of the most striking ways OF /
wearing the silk coat is with A lingerie |
or yelling gown. when there is not only |
a contrast of color but of material as
well Pongee is a favorite silk for sep
arate coats to be worn with yelling /
gowns and. as in the case of taffeta |
coats. when the gown is white or cream /
colored the coat is blue, pink, mauve
or some other dainty and effective color. |
a wonderful touch of color and smart |
ness is impaired 10 a white lingerie |
gown by n glowing light pink coat with |
a further repetition of the same color |
in hat and shoes. 1t is not. however. |
necessary to have the coat matched by |
anything else 1t is intended to strike |
a note Of color in a costume or to blend
prettily with il. affording contract only
in the material.
Besides contrasting coIors and ma
terials silk coats are invariably made
of the material Of the gown when that
is Of silk. and there are an infinite
variety of summer silks this season.
from the most unpra cticaI 20 the most
practical varieties.
Invariably all the smart silk coats
are short and made quite simply. with
short sleeves and Eton, bolero or cape
effects.
1t seems to be an unwritten law that
ponCee coats should be worn in prefer
ence TO tafreta with yelling gowns.
They may be Of the same color or may
contrast II the gown is white or cream
color. Besides silk little coats of lin
Eerie lace and embroidered lines or
pique are also worn with linen. pique
or lingerie gowns. and the lace coat is
-F~r. al
most anything and everything.
Simple linen skirts are invariably
worn with short embroidered linen
coats or those of linen and lace cOmbin-
ed and made so as to show the dainty
lingerie blouse peeping through
4 novel form of the separate silk coat
is shown in figure A It Is longer than
the usual length because II is worn with
an empire gown and really forms part
of the costume. The gown may be OF
chiffon. crepe. chiffon cloth. yelling. soft
silk. or lingerie. when worn with a coat
Of this sort
The Jacket is made with three stitched
pleats down each side the front termi-
mating in curved pieces at the waist over
loose pleated short coat skirts, called
by many a peplum. The material is
one of the many forms Of pOngee, and
a vest OF two strips Of contrasting ma
terials elaborates the front The outer
edge of the vest may be entirely Of
trimming or embroidery, while buttons
trim the inner strip of material bow
and buckle finish the vest, which shows
a little lace vest and stock above it.
A sleeve gathered TO the armhole has,
az the elbow; an upturning cuff Of curv-
ed pieces that carry out the plan OF
curved pieces at the waist with the
- Tt,
wear with a corselet skirt or princess
gown. this coat should be made quite
short. without skirts. and with the curv-
ed ends of the pleats making a finish
to the fronts.
Figure B illustrated one of the very
newest methods of making a silk wrap
tFat isn't a coat and yet comes under
the head of short wraps. Three wide
folds of silk are stitched on their upper
edges and narrow toward the front.
Above these is wide band of shirred
or puffed silk attached to a wider one
of velvet that outlines the neck, coming
down in quite a deep point in front. A
wide stock and jabot of lace finish {.
neck. and their little cape-like wrap is
particularly effective, worn over prin-
cess gown, although It may be adjusted
TO an empire gown or some other form
Of dress. It comes well over the tops OF
the sleeves and when made of the same
material as the gown, or in the same
color, proves novel and fetching finish
to the top Of the dress. Above IL the
band may be Of embroidery in contrast
ing colors and materials, and the point
IN front is susceptible Of many pretty
finishes in rosettes. bows. and buckles
The top of the costume worn with this
little cape coat is prettiest when quite
full Immediately beneath the cape. a,
the lines fall more softly and gradually
from the bouffant shoulders 10 the slen-
der waist The sleeve, too, is purely
Of the empire period; long, fitted and
slightly mousquetaire at the top.
In figure { the little jacket is more
upon conventional lines, although cut
and made in a manner as original as 4
Is charming The fronts of the JACKIE
have buttoned back upon them. wild,
square reveres. These are part of unde,
fronts to the coat. which show in points
below each side and in pointed folds II
front where the reveres turn back a
the neck and bottom The jacket has ;
rounded shape on the shoulder and ir
regular squares as fronts. with eIon
gated points at the corners and bordere,
with silk braid Heavy embroidery OF
silk folds might also be used as border
The coat is covered with a large de
sign in heavy raised embroidery done Il
different colors but with one tint dom
mating the whole. This dominating col
or, or something very pale, is repeate
in the reveres and under coat fronts a
well as in the pointed pieces which form
the sides Of the upper sleeve. Thes
open and disclose an embroidered pane
between them. while a short sleeve G
sheer material. 10 match that Of whic
the vest is made. falls from beneath tn
elaborate silk sleeve cap. The unde
sleeve is gathered along the inside scar
ard terminates az the elbow. It ma
be either of lace or fine null or chiffon
out' in any case. it should form part Q