davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1906-10-21
FANcIFUL TRIMMINGS ON NEW FURS

OF the three-quarter fur coats meant
for matrons have lace undersleeves-
These are full and gathered in at the
wrists. The fashion, though attractive
enough. is really ridiculous. for if a
fur jacket is needed at all nothing can
render its warmth giving qualities more
useless than an open sleeve with moth
ing more as a protection for the lower
arm than a lace puff.
Tt is noticed that in many OF this
jackets ermine Is used IN narrow strips
TO outline the embroidered waistcoat-
As a rule. even when the jacket reaches
to the hips. the waisteoat ends at the
waist.
Muffs are shown in many shapes and
no one need feel chagrined IL unable TO
purchase a new one The conservative
furriers declare that the new muffs ars
to be moderate in shape and size. They
are TO be round or moderately nat and
somewhat smaller in size than the large
ones OF last winter This sounds very
sensible but at the same time one Is
given a glimpse OF numbers oe new
muffs just arrived from Paris or Lon
don which certainly do not conform to
these modest forecastings. These nuffS.
however. we are told are novelties and
not intended as f0rerunners OF q gen
eral fashion. but simply as Individual
creations to please persons OF original
taste. The fact OF the matter Is. how
ever that nowadays women who pre-
tend to fashion must all be more or less
original in taste. So that perhaps it
would be as well to look at the novel
ties before settling down to the plain,
substantial varieties Among these
novelties one muff noticed was OF MORE
lamb, quite fiat and with loose piecs
of the fur caught up in RUNE on one
side and fastened there with a large,
fiat buckle OF gun metal.
Among the shoulder capes and wraps
the favorite new model seems to be
something in the shape OF a dolman
1t is like the silk mantles that have
been worn this last season. IT reaches
half way down to the waist. falls IN
dropping folds over the shoulders and
hangs down IN front in fiat, stole
like effect. In the thin furs. such az
moire lamb. etc. these manteis have
the furs gathered up IN soft folds ovsr
the shoulders and across the back
They are trimmed with quilted silx
and cord, which is arranged In festoons
and in appiqued ornaments. The cord
hangs down the front also in fringes
and loops.
These fur mantles ara perhaps the
newest feature OF this winters furs
The empire nlantels are also being
made up In furs. Chinchilla. sealskin
and mink viii all be- used for these
wraps.
The San Francisco call., 1906-10-21

7T DVANCED fashions In furs that
are now being shown at the
most exclusive modistes' as the
new London and Paris importa-
tions seem to make il quite certain
that the approaching winter Is to be
one of much betrimmed fur gar
ments. Elegant simplicity will. if all
signs come true. be very rare in the
new fur jackets and sets. The newest
models suggest very decidedly the furs
OF "the '60's' and again OF the sos
when braid and balls, cord and silk
piping figured very prominently on the
tippets, muffs and jackets. Those trim
mings, however. were usually OF the
same color as the furs. while the new
furs show an almost universal use
OF coIored trimmings. In black furs.
however. this is not so generally the
case, the trimmings OF the most stylish
black wrap being all in black. Among 9
the most elegant of these new black
trimmed with dull silk or satin pipings
and braids. with ornaments made OF
cord over molds in the shape of large
buttons. with cord fringe. etc.
The jackets in all the new modes
show a tendency to depart from the
bolero for the half-htting pony jackets.
The sleeves are comfortably loose on
some and on others rather tight-htting
that Is to say. the regular coat
sleeves ft Many OF the coats have
waistcoats and these are handsomely
embroidered in a variety of dull, rich
tones in Persian effects, etc. Waist
coats are also seen trimmed with ap-
plique of braid, velvet, silk. gold cord.
etc. The black coats have whistcoats
of silk heavily trimmed with shirrings.
pipings, cord. braid. jet. etc, working
out intricate designs.
One Of the most sought after furs OF
the winter will undoubtedly be seal
skin, which will Just as undoubtedly
be ore OF the most expensive. Sealskin
is never a very becoming fur to the
figure. but it is at its best in a plain
coat with nat sleeves semi-ftting, or in
an easy. close-fitting model. One very
handsome new sealskin fitting in tight
~ at the back and sides and semi
fitting in front had very narrow
waictcoat OF blue silk embroidered in
blue OF two shades. There were also
long ends OF the blue silk falling from
the neck straight down to the bottom
OF the coat. The blue was OF the old
beautiful shade once so fashionable in
poplins and very rarely seen nowadays.
Very little lace is seen on the new
fur street jackets. excepting that some
The San Francisco call., 1906-10-21

nately, since the edict went forth that
curls. pufrs and full side poinpadours
were fashionable many women have
apparently neglected to comb and brush
their hair sufflciently and the general
effact has been hopelessly ugly The
present style Of coimure requires most
careful attention and must invariably
be kept in most perfect condition, for,
as has been said, all the new hats dis
play so much of 1t.
II is, OF course, quite too early in the
season for fur hats. but they are to be
extremely fashionable this winter. and
already are to be seen among the ex-
elusive models in millinery. The toque
seen. but there are also more cutie
novel designs made on the same lines
as the felt or velvet. In sharp contrast
are the tulle and lace hats trimmed
with fur that are to be worn with
theater and reception gowns Only the
most expensive materials are used in
these lace and fur hats. so, as may well
The San Francisco call., 1906-10-21

hand work, extravagance IS to be par
done6. Linen of very fine quality costs
a great deal. but the money is well ex-
pended in this direction. Batiste. fine
nainsook and lawn. China silk, peau
de sole and satin are also USED
for babies caps II possible only real
lace should be employed. Or II imita-
tion Is used only little should be
employed and that shoula be nne in
quality and OF dainty design Very
handsome little caps are made entirely
OF real lace They are tight htting,
with only a. tiny ruche around the face
for trimming. and arc lined with SOFT
China silk. These may be of guipure.
o; baby Irish. of Irish point or. IN fact,
of almost any handsome lace that Is
not too heavy In texture Irish crochet
The San Francisco call., 1906-10-21

so popular for waist trimmings Is hard
~ handsome or fine enough for ths
baby's CAP.
Both French and Irish embroidery is
used on the caps. the fashionable Eng
lish eyelet embroidery not being so
good for the purpose The embroidery
is supplemented with insertions of Irish
lace or with guipure or Valeneiennes.
Very beautiful babies caps are also
made OF the all over Italian embroidery,
which is on heavier linen in small de-
signs partly OF openwork. partly OF
embossed embroidery
Net ruchings are usually used on
the caps made OF wash material and
liberty silk ruches for the silk cans.
Narrow ribbon is used to trim the sim
pier caps and French knots are most
successfully employed as a substituts
for the more elaborate embroldsrE.
The San Francisco call., 1906-10-21

be imagined, they cost considerable
money; but at all events they show
,-hat they are and the price demanded
- not merely for the individuality of
sh~re and style.
the felt and beaver used in the new
hats. Some closely resemble the cloth
of the costume. and in fact cloth Itself
is often used others are almost shaggy,
like fur. Satin, too is in fashion again,
while satin combined with velvet is
thought effective This combination. as
we'll as the plain satin came into style
last winter and was not universally
popular. but apparently has taken a
new lease of life. for certainly there
IRE many. extremely smart hats made in
this fashion and trimmed with flowers.
stiff aigrettes or ostrich feathers.
The San Francisco call., 1906-10-21
Popular Petunia Color.

While the all black hat is. ss has
been said. worn with any gown il is
considered almost essential with a
smart or elaborate costume to have
the hat match il in color and often in
material The style now so popular Of
trimming cloth with velvet the same
shade or rather darker and then to
have a narrow wsistcoat and the collar
and cuffs Of the Jacket of some con-
trasting color makes il easily possible
TO evolve a most attractive hat to cor
respond a gown Of the new petunia
red cloth trimmed with velvet just one
shade darker is charmingly trimmed
with facings OF pa-e green en-
broidered in black and white. A hat
OF the velvet to match exactly can then
be trimmed with ostrich plume or tips
according TO which IS the best suited
10 the shape that is chosen, while il
it is desired to introduce some lighter
color by way of contrast 1t can easily
be accomplished by having white rose
or gardenia with green leaves in the
folds Of tulle or half hidden under the
ostrich feathers.
Gray in the new shades would be
extremely trying were It not relieved
by some color contrast. so In the gray
costumes are trimmings in which is
introduced green, red, pink or yellow
The hat to match. of velvet or felt, with
It's big plume and stiff gray wings. Is
made charmingly becoming at once
with the color introduced by the fiow-
er Of aowers, and for those women
who complain that the all black hat is
too hard In its outlines the same meth
Cd may be employed of using some
flower that is becoming.
1t Is interesting this season to note
the great yarietyt and apparently often
DRAMATICALLY opposed styles that are
fashionable The demure and the dash
ing are so distinctly at variance that it
seems Impossible they can both be the
fashion at the same time, and yet in
the one outht Will be included those
styles already described, and the others
that have high crowns or at all events
high trimmings. and most dashing
appearance. but IN truth the day has
gone by when there, or at the most
The San Francisco call., 1906-10-21

foundations. Many Of the brims are
turned down in the mushroom effect.
as it is called. but this is not to be
rashly recommended as the shape rs a
very trying one. II is still fashionable
TO have trimming beneath the brim and,
indeed, there are many hats which ap-
pear TO have more trimming undey-
meath the brim than on the hat itself.
masses of maline in which are half
hidden sprays and plumes fill in the
space between the hat and the hair
that even the fashionably fun coiffure
has failed to do. while often stin wings
or ostrich tips are placed at the side
and back under the brim
Plumes and Roses.
Ostrich feathers are more fashiona ble
than ever and there is no limit TO the
length that is used Placed around the
crown and dropping down to the
shoulders is not considered too exac-
gerated. and the fullest of feathers are
In great demand. There is again
note Of the picturesque in these feather
trimmed shapes. the dropping brim and
the long feather having more than
mere resemblance to old English prints
OF the demure maid and matron. while
the always becoming and popular
Gainsborough is also represented both
in the black and colored velvet or soft
beaver hats. The long black plume and
the pink and yellow rose half hidden
in the folds of maline, appeals ire
sistibly to almost every woman. and the
only danger is that the fashion will
become too popular. especially as it re-
quircs careful treatment and can easily
be caricatured.
All black hats. fortunately for the
economically minded, are to be i'm
mensely fashionable, and will be worn
with all sorts of gowns. With the light
tbeater gown the all black hat is once
again considered smart. and IL must he
admitted is often more becoming and
encctiEe than the colored. although the
pale pink. blue and yellow hats are
most charming and dainty. Black hats
with colored wings are very smart at
the moment. but it is not safe to count
on their being so for any length OF
time. Invariably in the early autumn
do these black hats with bright trim,
mings find favor. and almost invariably
as the season advances are they quietly
but firmly pushed into the Background
A favorite model is a most demure stiff
black velvet. with low crown and
turned down brim. Around the crown
is wreath OF bright roses veiled in
black tulle; with this is worn lace
veil and quaint old-fashiened effect
is given. In sharp contrast is a soft
black velvet toque with trimmings OF
bright. fancy wings. and bows at the
back under the brim, and two red roses
also veiled by tuIle--in fact 1t is a
decided fad to have all bright flowers
yelled in this fashion.
The San Francisco call., 1906-10-21
FeIt snd Reaver Had.

seft felt and beaver hats trimmed
with stir wings. ribbon or velvet bows
are ncst attractive this season and are
10 Re seen both in light and dark col
ors-colcr. by the way. playing an all
important part in this seasons milli-
nery. The stin, bright colored wings
might puzzle an ornitheloglst TO decide
what manner OF bird they belonged to.
but Dame Fashion does not hold to
the belief that nature unadorned is al
WAYS the. most desirable. and the aid
OF bright coiors furnished by the dyers
art often produces a more satisfactory
colored plumage than the original
There are not many hats with trim
mings OF the same color. twist OF
velvet IN some sharp contrast and a
large bow at the side, II bright wings
ere net used. being thought very smart
Both velvet and ribbon bows play an
al important part in trimmings. and IL
is marvellous how many different ef-
fects are secured by the clever arrange
uaent Of rosette. cockade or mass OF
stin bows piled one on top OF the
other and covering the entire side OF
the hat
The different angles at which the
hats are worn are most bewildering.
although now the back and front of
the hao are more clearly defined and it
is no longer possible, as It was last
spring. TO wear the front at the back.
All the smaller shapes are bent or fold
ed. and the shaggy felts and beavers
are more used than the stin ones. and
thie Notwithstanding that there are
many very attractive shapes with stiff.
unyislding crowns and bFims-
In larger shapes velvet hats are to
be seen made over both stin and soft
The San Francisco call., 1906-10-21

rHE spring bonnet. dear 10 the
heart OF the professional joke
writer's. no longer occupies that
supreme position in the world OF
millinery that would justify its being
the subject OF prose and poetry. Four
times a year at least does the fash
ionabIe woman OF today consider # alb
soluteiy essential 10 her welfare and
happiness 70 sally forth in a new ere
alton OF the miIifner's art. and the
spring bonnet is merely included in
the general outfit OF the year.
Autumn and winter fashions are now
absorbing the attention OF the feminine
world. and those gifted beings who
have furnished the designs this season
have certainly evolved traps to ensnare
the most penurious. for surely never
before was there such a bewildering
display OF new shapes. new colors and
new materials in the way of headgear.
There are no end OF smart, rather &C.
centric. shapes that require a close
study OF the right angle 10 be becom-
ing. There are exsggerstedly large
shapes on the picture order, which de-
naan6 a coifture in keeping. while there
are also endless varieties in shapes
among the more reasonable medium
sizes. The prices asked for the So
called unique shapes are rather over
whelming. but while there are plenty
OF women who can afford 10 choose the
hats they like without stopping to ask
the price. there are many more who
must needs stop and consider care
fully the amount OF money they have
to spend These last VIII find this sea-
son that their lot in life is not so pa
thstic after all. for there never were
so many smart and becoming hats of
medium price TO be had as at the pres
ent time, and 10 wear an unbecoming g
hat is simply a proof OF lack Of taste
IA lack OF vanity rather than poverty.
when the question of expense does
not enter into the choice OF q winters
outfit there must needs be a hat to
match every gown. but It is quite pos
sible for a woman to get along and look
smart also with two hats-one on the
simple, rather severe order for every
Say wear, and one more elaborate for
afternoon Theater hats are another
proposition. it being considered obliga-
tory 70 wear hats, and those on the
picture order. II occupying box In
the ordinary orchestra or balcony seats
no hats are allowed. so the term thea
ter hat Is somewhat ambiguous. The
un-~a1Ie< fheafe~ bsf fe = roorf o1.h
crate affair and is in truth the same
that is worn for dining or supping at a
public restaurant.
The San Francisco call., 1906-10-21

avery garment OF a womans or enid 5
wardrobe. as well as almost every one
of her toilet desk or drawing-room
accessories calls aloud for like lux
ury, the cry OF one more handmade
necessity is little appalling
And yet Of all things in the world a
baby's cap is certainly the one on
which friends and relatives may afford
10 expend the best efforts OF their
needles.
The most beautiful of all babies caps
are OF exquisitely fine handkerchief lin
en-. Here again, as in the case OF the
The San Francisco call., 1906-10-21

half dozen Shapes. were Furnished
the general public with the pleasing
information that these six and these
only We're possible and that to wear
ANYTHING else at once marked a woman
as being hopelessIy behind the times
Now the number OF shapes Is practi-
cally without limit. and while there
must needs be something that denotes
they are OF this years design there is
no cast iron rule to be followed.
This was exemplified when the absurd
ly small hat came into fashion. 1t was
a style impossible for the great ma
jority, and consequently the clever de-
signers straishtway provided other
models to choose from. leaving the tiny
shapes for those to whom they were
becoming.
The Couture Important.
All the hats now do possess one point
in common-they show the hair, and
consequently the couture must always
be carefully looked after Unfortu-
The San Francisco call., 1906-10-21
INFANTs HANDMADE CAPS OF LINEN NANsook AND SIX

~ ABIES caps are OF course one
X of the articles which most de-
, serve and require the daintiness
of handlwork In this age. when
The San Francisco call., 1906-10-21

:.::s :: ::: =: ::;:: ~: : $: !. ): !: :
new London and Paris importa-
Montgomery County sentinel. [volume] (Rockville, Md.) 1855-1974, 1906-01-05
g. W. OFFUTT.
q. W. OFFUTT j. CLINTON TRIBBY.
SUBSTANTIAL SAVINGS
I'm Diamonds, Watches, Jcwelry, SiIveFware, Clocks.
buying in


isnewis
the supply for less than
n
Brooches, 81 .
relied precision
fancyc can
ARE both Plated and
ues.
WE'LL We
First Call when Jewelry Buying,
GOLD AND watches
I'd, solid Nl
- dgoldlo
Ladies'
beautifully carved -
Solid
JEWELRY AND FABLEW rchabr
military u
koG lsuoons half doz
81 pie knife 50 %; beautiful
CLOCKS WARRANTsc
fnean watha
Repringe
oErF.UTT Go TERI9BY.
with hit Front NJ .r..
gtOn o.
Montgomery County sentinel. [volume] (Rockville, Md.) 1855-1974, 1906-01-05

Onion thrips, which cause what is
sometimes known as white blast of on
ions, breed primarily on plants growing
on uncultivatef lands in and near onion
fields. For this reason fields adjoining
blocks Of onions should be kept cnltivat-
ed and as free as possible from plants
on which the pest breeds All culls,
tops and other refuse from onion fields
should be burned in the fall after the
the crop is gathered.
Montgomery County sentinel. [volume] (Rockville, Md.) 1855-1974, 1906-01-05
AarifAItnraI.
ALFALFA IN APPLE ORCHARDS.

L. H Knapp, Of Syracuse, N. Y, has
q l4-yearold apple orchard in alfalfa.
The trees are models of Thrift and bust
ness-like shape-in fact, this orchard is
noted throughout Central New York,
says Rural New Yorker. II may well
be q model orchard, for Mr.. Knapp has
watched and tended it with more care
than many farmers give to their chill
dren. The branches are trained up
with spreading habit, which opens the
tree to the air and sun. Many Of the
trees were partly girdled by mice, and
Mr., Knapp has shown great skill in
bridge grating. The most remarkable
feature Of the orchard is the thick Sod
Of alfalfa, which is cut three times dur
ing the season and hauled to the barn
for hay. The manure resulting from
feeding it is hauled back and spread
around the trees, and under this system
the orchard has made q wonderful
growth. It must not be thought that
the alfalfa was seeded when the trees
we're planted. For 8 or 10 years the
orchard was plowed and planted to crops
like corn, beans or potatoes, which re-
quire thorough cultivation. 1t was then
seeded to alfalfa, and since then the
practice has been to remove the alfalfa
hay, feed it and bring back the manure.
Mr.. Knapp considers this, for him, a
more reasonable plan than the Hitch
ings method of leaving all grass to rot
on the ground. The chances are that
If the alfalfa we're seeded when the young
trees we're planted the latter would be
stunted and fail. The older trees stand
it because their roots are deeper, and
the manure gives them both mulch and
food. Thera is large barn on Mr.
Knapp's farm. We thought at first that
it was relic of old days when sheep or
cattle we're fed on the place. On some
fruit farms in Central New York these
great barns are to be seen-empty.
Years ago these farms kept q large
number Of live stock. Now, having been
given up to fruit, the barns stand idle.
This was not the case with Mr.. Knapp's
barn, for it was built to hold the alfalfa
which is cut in the apple orchard. We
never before heard Of case where the
hay crop from an apple orchard has
forced farmer to build barn. Mr..
Knapp was quite emphatic in saying
that many failures with alfalfa we're due
to lack of bacteria in the soil. He
believes that it will pay well to inocu-
late by adding soil from field where
alfalfa succeeds.
Montgomery County sentinel. [volume] (Rockville, Md.) 1855-1974, 1906-01-05

Fall planting of fruit trees is every
where considered safe and advisable for
good soils, according to Country Gen
tleman. Poor trees poorly planted in
wet soils and exposed to severe eli
mate are almost sure to suffer winter
injury. when all conditions are good fall
planting has distinct advantage. In
good soils strees will make some root
growth in late fall. which in very early
spring is the first to start 10 advance of
the spring planted trees. It is probably
not wise to place too great emphasis on
the value of fall planting, but at any
rate it is worth considering.
Montgomery County sentinel. [volume] (Rockville, Md.) 1855-1974, 1906-01-05
FARMS FOR SALE.

ONE of 400 ACRES, MORE OR LESS,
OOne of 225 % q
situated within mile OF Boyd's, in Mont
gomery county, Maryland. Another farm Of
about 800 acres, situated in Poolesyille dis
trict, in said county and State.
Apply to HORACE D. WATERS.
AUD 12-f Germantown, Md
Montgomery County sentinel. [volume] (Rockville, Md.) 1855-1974, 1906-01-05
SCHOOL SUPPLIES.

INVITE the attention Of Teachers, SchoI-
Il ars, and the general public, to 9 full line
Of fresh goods.
TABLETS, for Pen and Pencil, in variety;
Copy, Composition aud Exercise Books:
Lead, Slate and Colored Crayon Pencils;
Inks, In all sizes and colors;
Wards, Writings, Cranes and Hurd's
hne Correspondence Paper aud Envelopes;
Legal, Foolscap and Bill Paper;
Blank Books in variety,
At WILSON'S DRUG STORE.
Opposite the Court House,
sep S7-H Rockville. Nd.
Montgomery County sentinel. [volume] (Rockville, Md.) 1855-1974, 1906-01-05
FERTILIZERS:
TIMOTHY SEED.

full car load of Western TIMOTHY SEED has ms
been received Also GLOVER, RED TOP and ORCHARD
GRASS AAD