New-York tribune., 1906-06-24


MeAlco- Ii this particular journey there has been
d oelaF OF about twelve hours at Trinidad, and a
glorious electric storm has broken over the place
ana passed av'ay. and the pilgrim has seen, with
uhSpeakable delight, great double arch of rain
oo"s spanning the vast mountain gorge and. upon
me sp.Te Of little church in the valley, a cross
O silver, cleaning white and with startling
Iaolanee against sky of ebony; and among the
aaFk woods. at evening, radiant festal building,
rs "loie outline defined with electric lights. At
fI4IoH there is still another thunderstorm with
o.oud effects of boundless uagnihceroe and 50 the
night desoeads
- oaFk and dreary morning follows this night of
tempest and. for time your !stcss gaze dscerns
only Nistas OF ntcrrainable prairie half ve!ed in
mist through which the naany-colo-ed cattle in
different 10 weather slowly stray along their past
-te ranges n bovine content As you approach
Las Vegas the sun breaks forth: the meadow larks
are singing the jackrabbits leap and frisk their
e1uoerant, uncomfortable JOY al being alive; the
-. IS delicious; the landscape smiles, and all the
world seems meant for happiness. Here the plains
are much diversified, with rocky ravlnes cluraps of
pine, and wooded hills AT Las Vegas famous for
us health giving hot springs there Is still another
ot uae magnificent railway station hotels, of old
spanish architecture that the Santa Fe is rearing
al intervals all along its line-buildings that much
enhance the beauty Of the course and. the
tiIne provide resting places, of not only comfort
out luxury, for Americans who would ascertain and
ENJOY the wonders of their native land As you
penetrate stll further into New Mexico you look
80 +-NN-S E-1SSS--lIl6 nuts that compose them
Ing made Of perpendicular logs covered with earth;
and these are inclosed in stockades made with
sta4s' for cattle. Looking northward and east
ward from the high lands near Fulton your vision
comprehends wonderful panorama Of hills and
valleys, tremendous in extent, opulert variety
OF shapes and colors. and rich suggcstiveness
OF mystery and romance. From Las Vegas TO Clio
ret'a II Is uphill all the way. The railroad winds
continually. and many splendid feat OF engineer
ing VIII arrest your notice and win your wondering
praise. Among these hills also there is a lovely
silence There are woods. thick and now
sparse The red earth shows through the scant
shruooery and there are light nists drifting
AeS1o- Far northEar0 mountain range is visible
scanned with snow and cleaning in the sun No
where else surely, could be found such a prodieious
extent Of scenery various and of such essential
loVeliness- There is other word to describe it.
Here one day, when the teeling soil is fully culti-
waited and the abounding mineral wealth Of the
country is developed. a great dominion whether
empire or republic. will itself TO amaze the
world with its opulence and grandeur At present
IN these tiny villages. the civilization seems prini-
tive The Church, Of course is present in this wild
region,-ever vigilant and active where man is 10
be helped and cheered. In one village your gaze
would lnger little adobe building with 4 cross
and belfry-and with ladder its roof, whereby,
apparently, the sexton ascend to ring the bell
In lonely dell, beyond GIorietta YOU would see a
cleaning cross, affixed upon the top of a tall stump
to mako rural altar for Christian worship Those
signs not without solemn meaning instinct at
once with pathcs and hope
The country now somewhat lacks foliage but II
Is diversified with hill slopes of a brown color and
II seems vacant and peaceful You are coming
near TO the rich and healthfu city Albuquerque;
one OF the most attractive residential places in the
West; gay and agreeable ar all seasons though
somewhat subject duststorms when the Gus
tomary spring rains have failed as fail sometimes
they will At this time of the year the skies of
Albuquerque are unusually blue and bright. bur
now. happily. they are gray and soft; and as leav-
iIg that city, you speed along through broad
| meadows, golden with wild flowers and among
bleak and lonely hills that scarce anywhere show a
Vestige OF human occupation, you indeed CRATE
| ful for this relief from glare and neat Now be-
gin the long lines Of gorgeous crag that make the
awful loneliness Of the prairie so romantic and
nnystertous-near at hand great heads OF giant
shouted rock protruding through the earth and far
away, an infinite variety of natural castle and
fortress with here and there scattered mounds of
fantastic shape that seem like Islands in an other
wise vacant sea. Some Of those strange rock for
nations seem ike figures Of Indian idols; heads of
| elephants: gigantic teeth Of n1astodons or Of
dragons that tore each other in the slime Of
the early world Not the less, among these prod
igies Of nature been reared at long intervals
| the peaceful abodes Of man. You will see the
aoobS huts of the Mexican inhabitants on little
| juttng rocks under huge overhangirg cliffs:
and sometimes exactly do those huts repeat the
| color Of the rocks the observer can scarce dis
| tinguish where the product Of nature ceases and
the handiwork of man begins At Laguna there
is IN particular 4 magnificent specimen of this
unique architecture-a avge rocky mount, thickly
| covered with adobe dwellings, of many shapes. all
seeming like the great castle Of Edinburgh, 10
grow out of the rock itso-f
The traveller who would visit the old city Of
Santa Fe place that was founded three hundred
years ago and still retains much Of its prrneval
simplicity must leave the main line at Lauy. and
make short railway trip northward. Later. If he
would view the Petrfed Forests Of Arizona he
must pause at either Adamana Holbrook, and
drive them. Still later if he would astonish his
vision and feed his imagination with the marves
and sperdors of the Grand Canyon Of the Colorado
the sight of all sights that no earthly wanderer
should missile must aHght at Williams. in Ari-
zona. and make q railway journey northward, of
about three hours. TO the hospitable haven of El
Tovar This. If he is wise, ne will do; and
he will have rich reward alike of magnificent
prospect and everlasting remembrance. The transit
from New Mexico 10 Arizona is made near Gallup.
In Arizona you whir!ed across dry, yellow!sh
plains and past range after range Of splendid
crags, and rich natural lawns, and through
magnificent groves, and often your vision is fas-
c.nated with curiously scuptured palisades of rock
Your pilgrim has written much of that delightful
land the stupendous canyon that is its chief
glory, and therefore he does not linger on IT here
From Arizona into California the passage I. made
when you cross the Colorado River, before reaching
the station OF Needles-by which name the earlier
settlers have designated group of mountain PIN
nacles. an embodied menace, grim and cruel in
aspect OF barren desolaton. keeping watch upon
the river bank Here you would perceive an abso-
!utely ideal position for medieval castle. North
ward stretches prairie, bounded, far OF, by
the lofty mountains Of Arizona, ana through II,
with resstess force the broad brown waters OF the
mysterious terrible river roll swiftly downward
toward the sea The edges of the mighty stream
are dense with foliage. In all directions the pros
peot Is spacious and superb. but chiefly it IS in
spring toward the north. where the copous foods