Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-14

pushed into the background. favorite
model is most demure stiff black velvet,
| with low crown and turned-down brim.
Around the crown is a wreath of bright
roses yelled in black tulle. With this Is
| worn a lace veil and a quaint old-fash-
| toned effect is given. In sharp contrast
| is soft black velvet toque. with trimmings
of bright, fancy wings and bows at the
| back under the brim, and two red roses,
| also yelled by tulle-in fact, 1t Is a decided
fad to have all bright flowers yelled in this
fashion.
While the all-black hat is, as has been
said, worn with any gown, 1t is considered
almost essential with a smart or elaborate
costume to have the hat match 1t in color
and often In material. The style now so
popular of trimming cloth with velvet the
same shade, or rather darker, and then to
have narrow waistcoat and the collar
and cuffs of the jacket of some contrasting
color makes 1t easily possible to evolve
a most attractive hat to correspond. A
gown of the new petunia red cloth trimmed
with velvet just one shade darker Is
charmingy trimmed with facings of pale
green embroidered in black and white. A
hat of the velvet to match exactly can
then be trimmed with ostrich plumes or
tips, according to which is the best suited
to the shape that is chosen, while II 1t Is
desired to introduce some lighter color by
way of contrast 1t can easily be accom-
plished by having a white rose or gardenia
with green leaves in the folds of tulle or
half hidden under the ostrich feathers.
Gray in the new shades would be ex-
tremely trying were it not relieved by
some color contrast. SO in the gray cos
tunes trimmings in which is intro
duced green, red, pink or yellow. The hat
TO match. of velvet or felt, with it's big
plume and stiff gray wings, is made charm
ingly becoming at once with the color in
troduced by the flower flowers, and for
those women who complain that the all
black hat is too hard in its outlines the
same method may be employed of using
some flower that is becoming.
1t is interesting this season to note the
great variety and apparently often dia-
metrically opposed styles that are fash
ionable. The demure and the dashing are
so distinctly at variance that 1t seems inn
possible they can both be in fashion at the
same time, and yet in the one outfit will
be included those styles already described
and the others that have high crowns, or
at all events high trimmings, and a most
dashing appearance; but in truth the day
has gone by when three, or at the most
half a dozen, shapes were furnished the
general public with the pleasing Informal.
ton that these six, and these only, were
possible, and that to wear anything else
at once marked a woman as being hope
lessly behind the times. Now the number
of shapes Is practically without limit, and
denotes they are of this years design,
there is no cast-iron rule to be followed.
This was exemplfed when the absurdly
small hat came into fashion. 1t was style
impossible for the great majority, and con-
sequently the clever designers straightway
provided other models to choose from,
leaving the tiny shapes for those to whom
they were becoming.
All the hats now do possess one point in
common-they show the hair and conse-
Quently the couture must always be care
fully looked after. Unfortunately, since
the edict went forth that curls, puffs and
full side pompadours were fashionable
many women have apparently neglected to
comb and brush their hair sufficiently, and
the general effect has been hopelessly ugly.
The present style of couture requires most
careful attention, and must invariably be
kept in most perfect condition, for, as has
been said all the new hats display so
much of it.
1t is, of course, quite too early in the
season for fur hats, but they are to be
extremely fashionable this winter and al
ready are to be seen among the exclusive
models in millinery. The toque and turban
shapes are, as usual. to be seen, hut there
are also more quite novel designs made on
the same lines as the felt or velvet. In
sharp contrast are the tule and lace hats
theater and reception gowns Only the most
extensive materials are used in these lace
and fur hats, SO, may well be imagined,
they cost considerable money; but at all
events they show what they are, and the
price demanded is not merely for the indi-
viduality of shape and style.
There are many different qualities in the
felt and beaver used in the new hats. Some
closely resenlbed the cloth of the costume,
and in fact, cloth itself is often used;
| others are almost shaggy, like fur. Satin,
! too is in fashion again, while satin COM
| bined with velvet is thought effective. This
combination. as well as the plain satin,
| came into style last winter and was not
universally popular, but apparently has
taken a new lease of life. for certainly there
are many extremely smart hats made in
this fash. on and trimmed with flowers, stiff
| aigrettes or ostrich feathers.