New-York tribune., 1906-06-17


HOW curiously practical and even austere would
-, -,ser Cf "a few seasons ago appear now, Doll
lfl.. &c the term that describes the fashionaole
Parisienne to-day and, indeed never has TINS gen
Grafton worn costumes so frivolous OF so lraiiA1s
.,oras,ive Of the fact that gowning is TO please
me eve and not 10 serve any utiitarlan purpose
Fashion has been, perhaps. year or more ap
,ros-rny this point. and Paris at present is mad
on the point Il dress and everything that pertains
10 personal adornnent-
Never before was there such a wide range OF
s+xles or catholcity Of taste. The line, the Inc
= erp-7s Insisted on and his IS understood no" 10
mean long limbs and slender outline; bII oul9iue
Of this point. gowns may be made Of any faDrlc'
"a any form or trimmed in any tashlon SO Ioie
as II IS beautiful according 10 The Fashionable loea
of beauty ornate and original Everybody IS NUM-
5rr fo- .he original note. find il IN dlscaIo-
ing any apparent corset for The severity oL l-e
Greek Dc7luu,. and others by loading their Gus
-ur7es with trimming and building them on 'i'
most ariiacG lines AL cherished prejud!ces seen!
s--eu- away and inherited ideas Of the htness OF
things t1rres roasv-turvy. That thing shall be
decorative seems 10 be the only standard by which
IL shall be judged
There was q group of women chatting in the cor
-t5or Of one Of the smart hotels the other day al
the popular Tea hour whose costumes were all IL
1-,s-ra-i--e of the a-tifcalty of the moment. and
also OF the wide choice which the modes present
These women had apparently met by accident ana
may have come from different afternoon iuhcuohs'
races and rhIrd At some afternoon reception out
every afternoon costume now. no matter what us
use. is toilet
LOOSE PRINCESS GOWN.
PArbsrs the most striking Of the three costumes
vas loose princess gown. something on the lines
OF mantle OF soft supple, dark rose cloth ms
seemed 70 begin with yoke cut out loW apout LIE
neck and descending in front Ike an open vest
made OF a band o. hnely Deated cloth, and from
his The robe hung in big side pleats stitched for
re-rars eight or nine inches This reached TO
within few tu-hes ot the hem Of the flowing uh-
dersklrt. ans beneath The open yoke or gilet Was
house OF exquisite embroidery and drawn work
which showed again under the short loose cloth
s7aozes The sleeves were laid IN loose peats that
ercircled the arm and finished with turn-up cum
Of sre cloth nearlrg This sleeve was fairly large
and The under sleeve was like e big bag gathered
into close wristbaud. 4 single large pink rose.
natural rose. rucked into the belt Of the skirt
an5 the hat was OF black erin worn low over the
left eve and trimmed only with a scarf Of black
ChauriIly and a single long black ostrich plume.
The second woman had beautiful blond hair won
6erfullv puffsd and uudulated and crowned with a
hat of pale yellow erin trimmed with a Yellow and
orange bird of pa-sdize. These birds are in great
favor orce more and certainly in this the ef-
feet was startling. The gown was on the popular
bretelle order Of 1a-pe cloth. with raousseIine de
sole blouse 3u the same shade. The bretelles and
pastron uniting them We're heavily embroidered.
The young woman wore bur one ornament a long
purse chain ct gold links holding reticue OF gold
links
The thi~a gown vas of black and white Pekin,
The stripes arranged TO meet IN Ts II The back Of
the little Drec-otre jacket This had belt put on
about TWO inches above the natural waist line and
little Hartre coatJails about four inches long. The
skirt was trimmed only with bias bands Of the stuff
ru1 on l- three rows Of scalops. and the under
blouse was a frivolous mixture OF TWO three
delicate Iaces. The hat was a most extraordinary
expression In millinery; il was sort Of gigantic
sailor, with a crown about eight inches high and
brin q scant inch wide and II was SET a little OF
Tie side of -he head. l. was OF raspberry colored
straw and trimmed only with velvet in the same
shade. making band AID a big bow one side.
with loops and ends falling on the hair
Everybody is wearing suede gloves in the natural
tore and Wits closed wrists. It has become the
mode take -ea and sometimes luncheon without
removing tl-e gloves perhaps because gloves with
" the wrists entirely closed HARD 10 get of.
Even iC The case OF black white costumes the
suede gloves are often worn.
a FOUL.ARD GOWN
Co-selet skirts and Empire gowns seem made in
al materials a weu known 5ressrnaker is show
tng o mode. ot dotted t0uIard made Up on Empire
lines. Evidently tlular5 IS no longer reserved for
utility suits il spite OF -ae efforts 70 push souar5
other silks seem TO le preferred. Certainly the
tanetas are pretre-, and. when the question Of
scft. cool. comfortable materials comes up Il must
be admitted thar there ale many more now IN the
market than The 0-L days when foCIa-ds were SO
popular
For Usefll costumes Tie rnohairs and thin wcoIs
good choice, and little trimming makes
these materials most attractive. A pretty nohair
noted OF the street yesterday, ard representative