The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-11-03

probably do. Tinkle, tinkle and an awkard heave and bump electric tram car comes sizzling along.
 Some Moslems are facing the east, fancying they look toward Mecca, which they do not, and are perform ing their devotions in the street. Mos COW merchants are in an adjoining cafe, and a gramophone blares T wouldn't leave my little wooden hut for you"
 There is the constant click of the abacus- beads on wires, on which we learned to count as children, and with out which the Russian, inheriting it's use fro Tatar ancestors, cannot reck- on how many two and three total. A playbill on the side of a rickety kiosk announces a performance-in Russian, of course-of the "The Gerisha." No where have I seen such a jostling of East and West
 One likes to think Nijni Novgorod fair is Oriental. It is customary to as- sociate the Orient with the dazzling. But there is nothing dazzling about the fair. The Eastern practice is fol- lowed of having all the shops selling particular wares in one district. looked for old silver and found cart loads of crude Austrian electroplate I sought antique rugs and got head ache looking at the vile, highly colored and grotesquely patterned mats manu- factured in German Poland. The only embroideries were imitation rubbish from Switzerland
 l In a dirty cafe I did come across some melancholy Persians who had turquois and opal stones to sell, and we spent rainy afternoon in haggling.
 Yet there is facination in the null titude of articles. At times one can imagine that all the manufacturers of shoddy articles have dumped their things on Volga-side Try to picture a third of mile of tombstones for sale though, Hibernian like, most of the stones are of wood Here the merchant from the far interior may acquire a really striking monument which will make him the envy of his neighbors who have never been to the fair A whole street is devoted to the sale of ikons pictures of saints set out in l Byzantine style in flaming gilt, and to be found in every Russian house In the right hand corner at the upper end of the room
 There are streets sacred to the sale of Russian boots-there must be mill l ,F ,1x xG I,J en with raisins block one thoroughfare; another road is a maze of bales of wood A row of shop is given up to the sale of umbrellas, and there is merrlment watching the astonished countenance of a simple peasant woman having an Umbrella opened in her face for the first time. Miles upon miles of cotton goods are here, with no nonsenslcal half shades about them, but strong and unmistakable reds and greens and blues and yellows. Half a street Is given up to cheap German toys.
 In the centre of the fair Is large red brick arcade, with shops selling the usual tinsel and expensive things. with the usual band playing in the after noon and the usual row of wooder faced individuals sitting on benches and stoidly enjoying the music. There is the usual pestering by importanatt dealers. And there are literally billions of postcards.
 Last evening at sundown I climbed the hill of the quaint walled fortress which guards Nijni Novgorod. The failing sun was burnishing the domes of innumerable church, hundred sweet toned bells, beaten with wooden hammers, made the evening melodiouf There was the heavy tramp of full kit ted Russian soldiers mounting the hill to the fortress; there was the distant babel of a city doing business at the top of it's voice; down below on the Volga was the scurrying of tugboats mammoth cattle boats and snakelikt rafts into place and the constant shri warning hoots of the sirens; away eastward, siberiaward, stretched a flat and unbroken land to the very horizon with a lowering purple sky deadening ta black.