The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-10-14
SEPARATE BLOUSE REVIVED
I'M SILK, CLOTH AND VELVET
FOR WINTER USE.

skirt TrOtthn1 Costumes -Hta0 Mfika
Extensively Exploited TrAnspaRent
and Heavy Goods Combined I'm Models.
Not In any recent winter season have
A. separate blouSes been a. many and -
sftrnctivo as they arc now. The fine lin
,.r,e blouse has. Of course, had q spOCtacu-
ar career and many women win continue
40 wear the handmade cobwebby things
under warm coats throughout the winter.
ht the designers and manufacturers have
evidently oonspired to bring womankind
Rack 70 allegiance to silken blouse ma
A.rIals and lovely models are shown In
everything from chiffon and net to ban
ealine and velvet.
on the exquisite white blouses In chiffon,
lace, net, sheer silk. crepe, 40, We Ill talk
At another time. They are as dainty, as
lively in detail as the finest OF the lingerie
houses. Like the latter they are, IL not
mtirdly made by hand, at least adorned
nv | '. h hand work-tiny tucls, shirrings,
Mai a. Openv DIRK ~stitohery, inset lace
and, above all, embroidery.
There are, too, many models. moro simple
vet still admirable. One little handmade
French blouse gives an impression Of ex-
E5VuN hthAN hiOc yOS IN " OAO ~ uupT9-
tentious design-a very sheer iustrous
white silk Of the radium type with Q shallow
yoke Of very fine hand tucks and no
trimming save finely plated frills OF good
yalenciennes lace down each side Of a front
box plat and in the elbow sleeve, and a
line Of insertion and frill Of lace on the
close fitting ollar
Blouses of crepe or silk resembling in a
general way the hand embroidered and
lace trimmed French lingerie blouses are
liked by the Partisan for wear under her
winter coat on the street, but there are
eufy, frilly models galore for more dressy
use.
However, it is in the serviceabie blouse
for use with coat and skirt trotting costume
that one finds new spirit this season. We
have never given up the delicate white
blouses, but the separate blouse OF more
perviceable allure has endured an eclipse
and has been obtainable in smart Ruise
only by having it made as an integral part
Of q costume.
This fall, however, il should be a COM
paratively easy matter to find a chic blouse
for almost any tailored coat and skirt cos
tune, for the merchants are showing de-
u4Otlul luONCAS Al AlAhCbb al WIG oGd6Ou b
colorngs.
The plaid waist silks so extensively ex-
plotted have their uses, and some OF them
are very beautiful in coloring and design,
but the tendency to one tone effects or effect
approximating the monotone makes itself
felt in the province Of the blouse, as it does
elsewhere. For some time past il has been
considered more chic to wear a blouse
matching the cloth costume in color, but of
contrasting material. than to wear a blouse
Of plaid or contrasting color, and this idea
still obtains among the fastidious, though
there are many charming blouses in the
plaid silks,
One tone blouses Of net, chiffon cloth,
silk and crepe are offered in the popular
trays and green's and browns and reds,
TO-, and are ornamented by embroideries
and other trimm ngs in self color, a re-
leving note Of cream or white being used
only next the face and as a finish to the
elbow or three-Quarter sleeves.
An idea particularly popular with the
most successful designers is the use Of a
transparent or semi-transparent material
for the blouse. with applique bands, motifs,
10, in silk velvet or cloth Of the same
buuc, hilA OlDCh AAAA OhA tAOAA q 10 II bIO-
duced upon the heavier, applied material;
Or, perhaps, soutache matching the mater
hl is used for the elaboration.
A silk net with ring dot, in the Excess
Evely modish souvis tmouse) gray was
te mate-ial Of one pretty French blouse.
The net boiy and sleeves Of the blouse
were tucked horizont lily in two inch
tucks, and over this body was a sort Of
skeleton blouse Of sou is silk forming a
wide band running around the neck below
o tiny guimpe Of cream lace, extending
down the shoulder lines like epauIets and
from the shoulder points running to meet
the girdle.
Bands Of the silk ran down the middle
mont and middle back, there was a silk
girdle, and silk bands trimmed the net
sleeves. Upon the silk was applied a
scroll design in fine gray silk soutache.
Several Of the blouses sketched here
Illustrate the same use Of semi-trans-
parent and heavy material in one model.
One In Jacqueminot red, for example, was
o. red chiffon oloth-the heavier silk chif-
fOn-trimmed in red taffeta and soutache
10 match. A touch Of originality was given
BY making up the chiffon ove a silk Of
ANAL red and white plaid which showed
dimly through the chiffon, and narrow
bias folds Of the plaid silk were used upon
the finely licked cuffs and guimpe Of cream
net.
Another blouse Of this class was Of that
creamy biscuit tone which appears fire.
quently among the seasons broadcloths,
cloths and other materials. The heavy
chiffon was again the chosen material and
bands and motifs Of silk to match were set
into the chiffon with open stitchery Of heavy
six floss, instead Of being applied to the
chiffon as is usually the case.
The chiffon was made up over a black
and white plaid silk and the effect was ex-
remely smart. Lines Of black velvet fin
hhed the guimpe Of cream net and lace.
These diminutive guimpes. v shaped,