Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-24

and bracelets in this silvery setting. How
ever, the really beautiful young woman at
the opera is often not jeweled at ALL
Flowers of some sentimental nature are
worn in the hair-camellias, gardentas or
roses: or maybe dark or fair head will be
spanned by a narrow bandeau OF pure
white, pale blue, silver or gold. The erect
of these fillets Is Christening, for something
of a haloed look is the result. One dark
beauty seen with hair parted a la Otero-
who Is much admired here-wore hllet OF
gold ribbon. Her gown was OF white chif-
fon, girdled with gold and held at the bust
by a gold camellia with green leaves. With
this classic loneliness went a long, narrow
scarf of mousse (moss gold, which chung
by moments like yellow frost oyer shout
ders almost thin, and then slipped down to
be worn rEspagnol over the arms. The
types of such picturesque dresses are some
times very melancholy; which is a great
relief after the tiers and tiers Of piQuant,
smiling faces.
Wonderful Structures.
But with talk of hair ornaments, a word
as to heads themselves. Surely never since
the days of wigs were such wonderful Golf
fures seen, and only to look at them gives
one the ache OF the hairdresser's chair.
Two hours sometimes It takes-two whole.
mortal hours to have the hair built into
the undulated temples and tea houses and
bird cages which now ornament the head
of woman. Then. If the coiffeur happens
to be q busy gentleman, 1t Is necessary
often to be coiffed for the opera at o'clock
in the morning.
Curls are much to the fore, and fat
Sort as unyieding to look at as country
sausages, are called empire or "chici curls.
These are tucked in every crevice. entirely
shaping broad Chignons at the back some
times, or lying beside classic bands or other
puffs at the top Of the head. To accomplish
the indelible wave seen-for there is sort
that lasts a year-the hair Is sometimes
baked in molds. Dressings which have a
rich metal glitter provide the sheen, and at
every spot where nature shows a vacuum
is applied a false bit fabricated for this
spot and no other.
At the sides the modish couture Is not
quite as wide as formerly, except, Of
course, with some special genre. A mar
row look Is being pushed to the 'front.' and
this forehead Anglaise as it Is called, may
also show at the sides Whisps Of the Eng
Msh fringe. With such opera coiffures go
tiaras, high combs, bands or jeweled stars
and waving aigrettes, for 1t Is the more
fatty and widely treated head which is
flower crowned.
To get all this, then. to the temple Of
song and fashion without rumpling is like
wise a matter considered so cloaks are
provided with hoods Of a most diaphanous
nature, or else the lightest scarf of chif-
fon, gauZe or lace will carefully muff1e the
structure
Cobweb Lace Coats.
Coats themselves are richly simple or else
feats TN airy textures which are 50 artfully
padded that one can never believe they
provide the least warmth. Exquisite ex-
amples in these were a pair of beauties,
made of lace cobweb fine, upon one Of
which great moth-looking insects had been
embroidered in silver tinsel. looking in
deed as If tangled in the SPIDERS web. Over
the lace the other coat-which showed
tremendous melange Of net tulle fine
there were tiny gold spangles cut out like
stars. These were put on scatteringly, but
at the bottom of the coat q gold embroid-
cry half a yard deep formed a massive and
bewtldering border.
The lighter furs, ermine and white cara
cal especially, often provide rich collars
and cuffs for velvet and silk brocade coats,
some of which are made with a dolman
looseness. But masses of lace. tui.e, tinsel
embroidery and artificial flowers are the
ingredients of the daintier wraps, all Of
which flavor deliciously of the fairy tale.
One radiant manteau seen - over q silk
lining wadded with marabout, by the way
of fine silk net with tulle ruches. was
hung with garlands of tiny rosebuds. On
an empire wrap Of SAKE blue velvet two
vast paste buckles were employed with rich
effect, one Of these showing at the back Of
the waist, the other straight In front.
Buckles of paste brilliants in square, round
and oval shapes are also seen upon the
SATIN SHOES worn, as Well as rOSett6S ana
tight knots of little artificial flowers But
the loveliest French shoe for evening wear
is of satin or silk, hand embroidered at the
toe These are made to order, at prices
which range from 100 francs upward Shoes
for gowns with tinsel deckings are Of gold
silver, the stockings going with them
perhaps showing embrOideries Of the same.
Full War Paint.
The stranger sojourning In Paris, and
without specially smart setting, is not like
Solomon In his glory at the Grand Opera.
Anything suitable is worn. but unless the
gown comes up to the box-opener's idea
Of the fitness Of things the ticket holder
may have to take, as the saying Is. back
seat, no matter how well she has paid for
some other. The French are very conserva-
tive in matters of evening dress. and so tho
stranger who cannot 60 to the opera in
full war paint must be content with some
inslorious place in the house. At the
smarter theaters 1t is the same thing, and
when a tourist ulster stands outside the
box office the ticket seller looks 1t over be-
fore appointing 1t to seat Wherefore
the usual stranger within the gates Of
Paris goes to the playhouse az a locker on,
as II were. But II one wants to see even
the tips Of the actorg or singers noses. 1t
IL well to consider French etiquette low
neck Dress pale colors. bare head etc. And
with this a liberal tip to the usher-who
matter of course, and expects bigger pour
poire when they arc brought back. The
nuvreuse, the woman usher, ID majesty
indeed To propitfat0. NINA FITCH