davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times., 1906-04-29
Little Things 10 Help.

As TO proceedings. IL would seem to
be- wise for the dreSsmaler 10 first cut
any straight knife pleated friIIs. tliat
viii not waste the material az all Which
The employer might be hemmInS or the
machine while the dressmal1er is doing
Tie cutting cut of the garment The
frillS 5-e now ready To be sent 10 the
pleaters. so that having them back in
time IS assured and the skirt prepared
for ba~tius and then trying on The
dressmaEer had better do the basting
II this. because sometimes she can give
a better ht by pulling or laciug the bias
edges OF the seams as she sees mt The
belt SHOULD be basted on and then the
skirt httcG. and il goes without SAVING
that the Wearer should stand perfectly
straight The hastings OF the belt viii
doubtless require shipping. pins being
substituted. The dTeSSrnak ker now hands
over tho skirt 10 be- stitched and turns
her attention 10 coat or bodice as tho
case may be. cutting and bastinE " hile
the seams of the skirt are being stitched
and pressed She VIII prefer to stitch
the belt herself but another person may
sew on hooks and eyes both there and
ct tho plaCkeJ- Possibly IL will ne
thought wiser 70 leave the skirt hanging
until the last thing before putting in the
hem or adding any trimming.
The Washington times., 1906-04-29
Take Time to Buy.

Ihe buying comes next. and for this
plenty OF tine should be allowed Il
viii pay in the end. and while cne
should not take anything unless per
fectly satisfied IL is just what they
want. il is unwise 10 refuse materials
That viii answer in the hope Of finding
the IDEAL OFTEN much time is wasted
-it llLls way. and the result disappOins-
-hS- Furnishing the work basket - a
l,tceSsltSs or course, and when buyinE
lot IhlS- money viii be saved II the
llemS are bought in quantity sewing
SIX by the ounce spool thread nv foe
oI dressma kers' s pins, bias tape by the
piece. feather bone by the dozen Yards
laHela binding and betting by the
epzeu. hooks and eyes by the gross in
dlnerent sizes. a roll Of tape. or more.
Tor catching down pieats inVfsfblv
SKIRT bindings. braid. shields twist All
may De bought at the same counter. and
II eacn necessity be written down as
Thought Of time viii be saved when on
the shopping expedition
Every lhinG IS now ready FER the
dressrnak ker: that is of course. the sew
ing machine has been well oiled and -
IN perfect running order. and in regard
10 sewing accommodations if there is
room available for that use exclusive
ly. Sd much the better
As soon as the dTcSSmaker arrives
work may be resumed at once instead
or going over the different designs. only
20 md perhaps when AT last one has
been decided upon that the material
furnished is insufficient 10 carry out
the model or the trimming viii not
answer and then comes a re-DeruSaI
lhe same thing all over again. with tfle
result that an hour of valuable morn
ing lime has been wasted
The Washington times., 1906-04-29

rms hat has low. round crown with
brim extremely narrow in front and
wider in the back. The straw turban
oT1m. or band. connects this little hat
with another brim that rests upon the
mead The turban band extends half an
inch above the upper brim of the hat
and is trimmed with a black velvet band
large white ostrich pompon is set
on the left side of the hat with a plume
dropping toward the back. Bunches of
light brown maIine cover the bandeau
under the back OF the hat. and under
It's right side a bunch of curls lends
fetching touch to the whole.
A woman might use some other trim
ming upon this hat without I'm the least
destroying its contour
Rough blue straw is the material used
for the hat in Figure c. 1t is one of
the many fancy weaves of straw TO be
seen this season and is decorative in it,
self Around the crown blue satin is
arranged in folds and twists. making
all the brim to be seen in front. and
this is lost under the combed up pom
padour. Blue wings on each side of the
front hold the sides of the brim against
the crown and extend considerably be-
ynnd the back of the hat whose crown
has the appearance of springing out
OF the pOmpadorr in front.
This Illustration is an example of the
manner in which the pOmpadour is
slightly separated to one side. the front
TO admit of the introduction of curIs
Satin folds pass through The turned-up
back of the hat brim and form A knot
above six wide. long loops Of the soft
liberty satin ribbon \ little twisted
fold of brown tulle over the bandeau
The Washington times., 1906-04-29

American women. on the contrary.
have far too little realization of the
relation of the coiffure to the hat and
its Importance in their appearance
Even the best dressed American wom-
en- do not pay enough attention to the
building up and out of their cOiffures.
The American woman has as great
a repugnance to wearing false hair
as she has TO making up her face
two customs that are universal among
French women-but the tiny hat of
this season is doing much TO break
down the barriers of American preiu-
dice and the use Of the build up" by
means of false hair. necessary to the
support Of fluffy pompadours and coro-
net braids.
Figure A illustrates smart little hat
OF black and white maline. a small
round frame is covered with high tufts
OF black maIine relieved In the back
by stu higher tufts of white. On the
left slide. near the front. two pink roses
give color TO the hat, while toward the
back two white plumes stand almost
upright with a backward droop upon
the hair. The hair is puffed around this
tiny hat and a cascade of curls hangs
across the back of the coiffure.
In order 10 make the hat harmonic
with a blue. mauve or yellow costume,
flowers of such colors would be used in
place of pink roses. while for evening
wear the hat would be lovely in coIored
tulle. A velvet bow might take the
place Of flowers, and either an aigrette
or ends of velvet might serve in place
OF Dlumcs.
Porto Rican straw composes the smart
little hat shown in Figure B.
The Washington times., 1906-04-29
Plan Beforehand.

II there are Owls 10 be made over.
The consultation should be held before
hand, so rs TO be IN readiness on tirae
whether ripped. washed or pressed. ana
the necessary trimmings and items pro-
Vided for them. If larger garments are
To be cut down for children get paper
patterns OF the new garments TO be made
and plan them out of the grown tp
clothing before the dresSmake comes in.
as this takes quite a long time. some
times, and lastly. although I knew. OF
course that house Is alwa-s upset
10 certain extent during the sewing
season. plan the night before n dainty
little lunch the coming day instead OF
the pickup arrangement we are some
times too glad TO put up with AZ such
busy times and just see how much eVet
this little attention viii help both en-
plOyer ana employe.
The Washington times., 1906-04-29

shapes should Always be manipulated
| 10 give them Individuality Sewing
wire around the brim or In places upon
II viii allow one 10 bend and twist
straw shapes into some attractive
form. The bandeaus. too. are import
ant because the tilt Of the hat depends
upon their size and the manner in
which they are sewcd into the crown
Every season witnesses some lad in
hat trimmings. This year the fad is
Tor aigrettes and. 10 some extent. for
peacock feathers. Ostrich feathers
plumes and pOmpOns are also very
popular. as well as very smart. and
are universally becoming. Flowers are
as fashionable as they always are al
this season Of the year. and there
Is quite a vogue FOR roses especially
Tor jack roses. which are combined
with almost any color OF hat trim
miRgs.
Ribbons for hat trimmings are in
Variably Of some soft quality. such as
liberty satin. soft -anetas. and Ger
tain other weaves of soft silk ribbon
Black velvet is popular. and touch
OF black velvet is frequently added 70
hats trimmed with other materials
Just as brown maline often appears
upon the bandeaus Of hats. quite ire
spective Of the color of the hat and its
decorations. Above all things in a hat.
assure its hecOmingDess TO the wearer-
Copyright. 1895. by " r HearstJ
The Washington times., 1906-04-29
he Couture Nust Be
BH1H Ab0ut The Hnt

HE ultra fashionable headgear for
the months 10 come will be tie
i tiny hat IT sounds insignificant,
but II isn't. The new tiny hat
can strike More prominent rote in
dress than mar " a hat more than twice
its size lt also requires more care in
the arrangement of the hair than any
other type OF hat.
indeed to talk about new hats and
omit new hairdressing would Dc prac-
ucally le;'.Ning off one of the most inn
pcrtant features of the nat, since The
halr * literally built around and some
times o'ser as well as under it.
Almo - any little hat is becoming if
tAe h2Ir is arranged becomingly 10 both
head and chapoau.
The new method of combiug he hair
5 - build il high upon the mead and
AT the sides The little hat 3 -ilted
forward ana rests upon a cascade Of
curls at the back. which often conceal
Il comb worn croSswise This method
Cf wearing the comb serves % keep UP
tho hair and provide support for the
hat
Some little hats have y bit of a front
brim buried i'm a fluffy pompadour
which is actually combed over them;
Others disclose a coquettish cluster Of
cUTlS .springinC from the side of he
pomT adour. which is parted for this
purpose. and again one sees a demure
bunch OF CuTls tucked under the side
al the nat toward the back II is
merely q matter OF personal taste and
Of the shape of ones hat. whether
curIs appear I'm the back. on the side, or
almost in front OF she cOiffure. In any
case. they are attractive and becoming
TO women of all ages and nearly every
type of face.
The wearing Of curls has almost dis
placed the wearing Of combs any more.
and has revived the fancy for deco
rating the hair with jeweled pins. The
ugly fashion or wearing combs length
wise is going out. even ih Paris. where
the fad had such a vogue. If worn at
all they are now i'm the hair crosswise
and are partially. and sometimes en-
tiTely. conCealed by Curls Side combs
are still worn. but even these are be
ginning TO give place TO the new modes
of hairdressing when jeweIed pins
serve TO keep refractory locks in order
and TO hold fast ringlets that seldom
grow upon the heads of their owners
These jeweled pins are made in very
simple styles and shapes. unless the
jewels arc very good. when the pins
may be much. more elaborate ANY
precious stones are used in these pins.
hut. Of course. these should be select
ed with view TO the color of the
hair
French women devote much atten-
ten To the arrangement of their hair
This is always dressed to make the
ne appear TO greatest advantage. and
al the false hair necessary 70 the at
talnment of this end is employed.
The Washington times., 1906-04-29

at the back is scarcely observed Need
less to say this hat would be as smart
IN other colors and would be very at
tractiVe in Tuscan straw trimmed with
black wings and black velvet
II Is quite smart to edge the brims of
certain types of hats with wreaths of
small flowers. and the little hat shown
IN figure ID is good example of the
style of hat most effectively trimmed
IN that manner
The material is a fashionable lcghorn
straw. very small in size ard slightly
dented round the brim TIE bandcau
and upturned left side are covered with
folds OF maline. much the tint Of the
straw. which is a yellowish cream.
scarcely pronounced enough i'm hue TO
convey an effect of yellow. 1t * tilted
toward the front and over the right
side and little wreath entirely around
the edge of the brim. A charming color
effect is produced in the wreath by the
use of heliotropes, tiny roses and little
greenish-white flowers. mingled with
small green foliage. OF course such
wreath could be composed of flowers
all of one kind. but the pOmpadOur col
Oring is very charming und effective.
The trimming Of the hat should either
match the color of the dress with which
it is worn or that of the parasol
Where the parasoI matches a hat
some of the same color Is introduced
'h t-' trlmn,Is cf The dress I.rdIce
and usually repeated in the shoes.
AS an example of this a rosc-colored
parasol trimmed with a white design
IN embroidery and braiding IS carried
10 match the hat shown in figure r.
a new sort of fine black straw. some
thing Ike inc black Panama. is the ma,
The Washington times., 1906-04-29
JSEFUL NOVELTIES FOR
BRIDES NEW HOME

II rs the useful novelties that make
a brides new home so subtlv at
tractive and give il = smartnegs
= that the long established ones
lack. And this characteristic should be
particularly conspicuous this spring.
Tor there are a number of entirely
new designs that Will be most service
able IN bedrooms and living apart-
nents, and especially appropriate for
the young housewife. brcacSe thev are
MADE l. such dainty bright colored
chlntzes and cretonnes. IN addel aa-
vantage Is that most of them can he
made at home if .ac mistress ., IT,
genious in planning knickknaczs and
50 will cost but a comparatively small
sum- As most Of these new patterns
are made on lines that require a IfttIe
carpentry work, the delight in getting
them ready for use Will be two-fold If
the husbands put the frames together
while the young wives add the finish
ing touches by covering them With
pretty materials and decoratfns, Vie
lids with hand-painted flowers or scroll
designs
An absolutely new thing for use on
dressing table or bureau. and one
that is entirely practical is the comb
and brush box IL is made of light
weight wood, sand papered until it is
perfectly smooth. The sides are ioin-
ed together with small brads and the
top Is put on with little hinges II l..
then covered with one or two LAYERS q :
cotton batting and pretty piece o.
linen, in plain blue, tan or yellow. In
side 1T is lined with a figured mercer
ized material of a shade that harmon-|
ICES with the exterior. In the center
OF the lid a bunch of hand-painted
daisies make ii most attractive. N
should be about fourteen inches long
and nine inches wide 10 convenientIvi
hold both brush and combs.
While not new a glove box made and
nnlshed IN the same way, on q smaller
The Washington times., 1906-04-29

teral ot this hat which has an owl
shaped. dented crown and brim rurne.g
/ up something like that OF a t,..l,ln and
/ narrowing TO one side of the front. Tbjs
! oFlm Is covered with black satin in
/ which Is wrought a very rich brocade OF
/ large roses. I'm dJlI rose color. with fol;-
age in soft shades OF green. White ana
gold daisies are mingled with tb. rosa-
( on the satin ribbon Where the brir,
narrows it is dented and the ribbon is
/ knotted IN the dent. and turned up ma
TWO sharp little points against the ouiu
OF two full ostrich pIumes Of rose colo1
Ihese slant up across the dent i'm "a.
crown. stand very high in the back. ana
croop downward over the bandeal nm
der the back. which gives "A forward
llt 10 tEe hat Close folds or brown
maline. over the bandeau which Is a
Llsh one and partly concealed by he
brim-
\ bunch of curls IS worn in one sid
OF the hair. and adds decided charm IL,
the general effect.
hats are not now made Of the san,a
color as the dress with which they sr.
worn but when the hat material Is cr
a contrasting color its trimmings mus
either match the dress or the color of
its TRAININGS ond accessories. A bat
IS never independent of a costume ex.
cept when that is gray. when fashion
DEGREES hat OF some contrasting color
'ueh as green, blue. mauve. red. and
the like White gowns too. are worn
With colorei hats. hut in this case shoes
farasol. and ribbons match the hat.
II Is TINS dainty arrangement of de-
tails which gives such cachet to a cos
tune. No matter how smart and exDen-
sive gown may be. the entire effect
Is either lost or rendered ridiculous bv
carelessness in the selection OF a hat and
those other accessories TO dress which
proclaim that a woman is either per
fectly accustomed to or hopelessly ig-
norant Of the art OF good dressing.
Parasols are this season SO much a
part Of the hat in color scheme that
they are nearly always purchased with
more relation 10 the hat than the dress
For instance. when I furnish a gown
that needs blue hat l also furnish
with the nat 4 blue parasol one of the
pretty fancies OF the season is to trim
a blue linen parasoI with some airy do
sign wrought in white cotton soutacbe
braid and embroidered white French
Knots In this case the long empire
handle would be OF blue enameIed WOOD
and a tuft of blue linen would trim the
ferrule
To the woman of small means I would
say. decorate your own parasols II is
an easy matter The longest wooden
handles and frames OF old parasols
might be taken 10 an umbrella maker
and covered at a triIing cost ANY
woman could then work some simple /
design in braid or enabroider-,- ,tr,o,, r. !
cover
Trimming hats is a different matter.
Homemade hats rarely. if ever. |
achieve the cachet necessary to make
a hat look the mode. But to the won-
an who wants TO trim her own hats let
me suggest that flowers and tuIIe and
feathers may be manipulated by un-
skiIlful fingers. but that the smart ad-
justment of bows and loops requires
the touch Of genius or years of prac- !
tice
The smart hat should have distinct |
shape of its own, and ready-made hat
The Washington times., 1906-04-29

- HE ultra fashionable headgear for
the months TO come will be tie
tiny hat. il sounds insipnifcaut.
The Washington times., 1906-04-29

A-SEIcyf Llttie
Hat cJ Black
and White
Maine.
B-N0zel Double
BriDi5Hed Sfy1zU
Hot Trimmed
WIN Veluel
and PlnU1eS.
C-ROugH BIue
S trGW H'ifh
WDlg Trim
ming aud
= { 0 m b z d-U p
PODlPGdOuy.
DIN 4ffy1rt;z,.
LeghorH With
WYeGth Edge.
E-A Charming
SfrGgU Hat ztIth
BTOcGdc Byiis
and PI4meG
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1906-07-17
Lava Caves of the Azores.

The formation of caves in a lava
stream is a curious process and one
which the explorer will be interested
to realize as his Investigations pro-
coed, and In the Azores it has some re-
markable and perfect illustrations. 1t
will be understood that the stream Of
molten matter proceeding ordinarily
from the volcano soon begips to cool
externally as it travels. but with a
great stream, say thirty or forty feet
thick, a long time passes before it be-
comes finally cooled and solid to its
center. A large body of melted lava
still remains liquid in it's interior,
forming as it were huge conduit or
tube full of the white hot matter. AS
this accumulates by the continued sup
ply from above the vast pressure of
the liquid On the lower end of the
stream increases. The effect may be
easily imagined. The solid crust at the
front of the flow breaks out, the melt
ed interior rusheS on again, and the
great tube is emptied of it's contents SO
far as they remain liquid, leaving be-
hind a hollow cavern which may AMI
occasionally does extend for an unin-
terrupted length Of several miles. In
the course Of centuries subsequent
eruptions may deposit new beds Ct
cinder or ash or new streams of lava
to any extent above it, but the cave SO
formed may remain intact. 4
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1906-07-17

Italians can get at home for their mon
ey that they can't get here, is it any
wonder they want to go back? have
had two room furnished suit, bed.
room and for my sitting room a fine
old marble salon sixty feet long and
sixteen feet high, in the very best To-
cation in Florence, for $12 a month
the price Of hall bedroom on Man.
haitian. OF course the type of Ameri-
can who could settle happily over there
would have to have bit of the cos
mOpOlitan about him, with an interest
in the art and history of the country
and the language. The language Is
the most important. With that he can
soon form social ties. America Is a
great place to make and earn money.
but it's a very bad place to try to live
on a fixed income. To earn 'da AmSs-
icano' and to spend 'da ItalianO'
that's the Italians ideal."-New York
Press
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1906-07-17

We owe our immunity to our atmos-
phere, which serves as bullet proof
cuirass for the world. When a meteor
enters the atmosphere the friction pro-
duced by it's gigantic speed makes 1t
flash up like the arrow of Acestes, only
more so. The heat thus produced, just
as brake showers sparks from a car
riage wheel or a lucifer match lights
on the box, is sufficient to consume the
meteor as if it were suddenly cast into
a furnace heated to three or four mil
lion degrees. Obviously the smaller
meteors are utterly consumed before
they have penetrated far into the at
mOsphere, which their fate has shown
to rise to a height of about 120 miles.
Only very large one can descend to
within twenty miles of the earth be-
fore being burst by the expansion due
to heat and by the resistance Of the
air. The fact that fragments do occa-
sionally reach the earth is the best
proof of the great size of some of the
meteOrs that we encounter. If it were
not for the blessed air. the explosion
Of them all, with the accompanying
fervent heat, would take place in our
midst. 1t is safe to say that such
state of things would render our great
towns uninhabitable.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1906-07-17
SOME PECULIAR PIES.


A Dwarf Was Served Up In One For
Charles I.
One of the most curious pies ever pre-
pared was that which the Duke of
Buckingham placed before Charles l.
and his queen when they visited him
at Burleigh-on-the-Hill On that occa-
sion Jeffrey Hudson, the dwarf, who
was so enraged by a gentleman whom
he had challenged to duel appearing
on the field armed with syringe, was
served up in a cold pie.
Pies were always a strong point of
mayoralty banquets, and the recipe of
a city of London pie has been handed
down to posterity from the sixteenth
century. The recipe runs as follows:
Take eight marrow bones, eighteen
sparrows, pound potatoes, one-quar-
ter pound eringoes, two ounces lettuce
stalks, forty chestnuts. one-half pound
dates, a peck of oysters, One-quarter
pound preserved citron, three artl-
chOkes. twelve eggs, two sliced lemons,
a handful of picked barberries, one
quarter ounce whole pepper, One-half
ounce sliced nutmeg, One-half ounce
whole cinnamon, One-quarter ounce
whole Glove, One-half ounce mace and
One-quarter pound currants. Liquor,
when it is baked, with white wine, but
ter and sugar"
1t looks very much as if the cata-
logue of ingredients Of this wonderful
pie had only been concluded through
the inventor forgetting any other arti-
cles of diet that he could put in.
Rich as the last mentioned pie
sounds, it was not so rich as the SIM
pie bran pie that an eccentric old gen.
tleman placed before his tenants at the
annual luncheon he gave them, for, be-
sides the homely bran, golden coins of
the realm were included In the cOncOc-
ton, which made it peculiarly savory.
Late in the eighteenth century the
Newcastle Chronicle had the following
item of news:
Monday last was brought from HO-
wick to Berwick to be shipped for Lon
don for Sir Henry Grey, Bart, pic,
the contents whereof are as follows,
viz: Two bushels of -four, 20 pounds
of butter, geese, 2 turkeys, 2 rabbits,
wild ducks. 2 woodssscks, 6 snipe and
4 cartridges, meats tongues, 2 cur
lews, blackbirds and 6 pigeons; 1t
is near 8 feet In circumference at
bottom, weighs about IL stone, will
take 2 men to carry it to table; 1t Is
neatly fitted with a case and small
wheels to facilitate it's use to every
guest that inclines to partake Of it's
contents at table."-LOndOn Tit-Bits.
The Evening statesman. [volume] (Walla Walla, Wash.) 1903-1910, 1906-07-17
Did You Notice 1t?

The Astoria & Columbia Railroad
Co.'S latest souvenir Post Book, con-
tanning II half-tone views of ClatsoI
Beach and other points Of interest
along it's line between Portland and
Seaside is making the hit of the sea-
son. Everybody wants it, and you VIII
have to place your order early to avoio
the rush. Mailed free upon appllca-
ton to ]. C. Mayo, G. P. A., Astoria
Or. or c. A Stewart, Agent, 24S Alder
ST., Portland, Ore.