New-York tribune., 1906-02-04
SHORT SPRING JACKETS.
Ne7C Garments To Be ON Lines OF
Covert Goats and CaracO.
Paris January %.

Paris January %.
Already women are discarding their long
wraps and habits in favor of shorter jackets
and tailored suits. The tailors say that during
the spring short separate jackets will be much
to the FORE and that many or them Will take on
the lines of the covert coats of several years
past while others will resemble the familiar
caraco loose with broad sleeves. The latter
garment lends itself to trimming. braiding and
depassement of embroidery or fancy stuff, While
the tailored coat calls for no ornamentatlon more
elaborate than buttons and velvet collar. Inc
boIero will be worn good deal as a part Oh
tailored costumes but ii will be longer than the
little bolero which now completes the princess
DirectOlre gowns.
There is a decided feeling in France that the
Directoire gown IS approaching the END OF It's
popularity and will nave little vogue in the
spring. Some say that it's decline Is due TO the
tact that IL is less suited 10 thin materials tlSl
to winter cloths and Velvets, but others mann
tain that people are tlring or II because II can
no longer lay claim TO excIuslveness- II may
possibly appear again next winter, Tor women
nave really only just begun TO wear these long,
Loose lines with grace and distinction.
Evening wraps represent an item of the garde-
robe that seems to grow more and more extraVa-
CANT and a woman hardly considers herself
we'll dressed these days without a number or
mantes There are any amount OF forms 1roIn
which to choose, the only points OF similarity
being that they all long and ample, easy
TO sip on and off and well furnished with pock-
cts The long, loose mantle with many capeS
IS good
is desired, but more elegant mantleS are or
lace or openwork embroidery over mousselfne
and satin foundation. Sometimes they are made
very frOu-frOu with a lot Of lace and mouSsel1ne
de sole ruffies and a painted design of flowers
with gold garandS. Naturally the form or the
garment and It's trimming bear some relation to
the costume worn beneath it, and this brings in
another item of extravaganza, a wrap for almost
every gown. Once was the time when two even
ing wraps, of cloth velvet for the theatre
and another more elaborate for balls and din
ners. were sufficient
There are many habits of loose, half-lons
coats of colored lace or heavy silk guipure,
sometimes the color of the gown and sometimes
of a shade that goes we'll with 1T. The distin-
guished ornamentation to these garments is
some border of cloth. velvet or fur or the bor-
der may be a band of different sort of lace
put on. SO that there, is no apparent line of
a tunic of ivory colored Irish lace bOrdered with
n three-inch wide mohar braid in a warm shade
of cream The lace is used again on the bottom
of the skirt in squares with the braid in the
sorm of a Greek key pattern
One of the many pretty trimmings used now
Is a lattice work of silk threads which may be
employed either IN the form of an entreteux or ,
on the edge OF tunic. On a gown OF elephant
gray mousseline de sole this trimming in the
Same shade is used with pleatings of taffeta to
make a bold and enlarged Greek key pattern
covering almost the entire skirt The bodice has
guinpe and sleeves Of silver lace; the suimpe
runs over the tops of the shoulders. giving the
dropping shoulder effect and the mousselne de
sole is then draped to form an oversleeve. The
silk trimming borders the mousseline de Sole
and there is girdle belt of taffeta The hat
with this dress IS one of the new capelines
with full mob crown of gray velvet and briu1
of silver lace. On one side is q sweeping gray
plume.
A spring costume Of cornfower blue cloth has
a nice of stitched bands These start with
an X cross and two small cloth covered buttons
just below the waistline I'm front and continue
down the skirt in two rows to end at the hem
under more buttons. About the hem Is COM
plicated pattern of crosses and lines with a
sparfng use OF buttons. The bodice has a peler-
inc decorated in much the same way with a Iit
vet nhrNF IL, -fI,-o
lovely gown worn by the mother of a recent
bride was of manve mousseline de soe trimmed
with velvet I'm a slightly deeper shade and en-
broidered with violet silk The velvet was put
on the skirt in two bands, going down each side
OF the front breadth and continuing about the
hem OF the skirt. On the bodice the bands went
over the shoulders, framing a vest of ivory
tinted point de Venise. The long lines OF the |
gown were broken by a modest draped heir OF |
violet silk, and the sleeves consisted of a sinsIe
puff with lace rufties at the elbows
handsome gown worn at recent wedding
was of gray satin. with an original trimmins nS |
satin bands. shrred slightly through the middle
and put on like scant jabots Two lines OF thesa
were used down the front of the skirt giving |
that erect or fulness which is supposed 10 hs |
so mOdish now. and the bodice the two hands
went over the shoulders and met low ON the
bust, framing a lace yoke. Satin is beCoD,iDo
very popular for ceremOnious daytime gowns
and this gown was most becoming 10 IT'S sIen.
der. youthful wearer
A model grown OF pale blue cloth a. +r,n,,o, /
with white ribbon and white cotton passemen- |
terie In a raised grape pattern. About the hot
~, vi sI,o shut 'ie rpbon Is arranged In gar
iahus WIN sti1t bow at intervals and lunches
or the grapes The bodice has a pIastron CON
slstlnS or low, fiat collar. meeting in n SORT
OF nreastplate and continuing as a corselet beIt
and this Is covered with the raised emhroiderv
an3 passementerie and worn over a blouse Cg
~ ~Mhlte Iace. A broad band OF black satin ribbon
passes ABOUT the bust, showing above the corsa |
let ana finishes In a stiff bow in front inst |
" w .t Iie piastron meets This touch OF black
u" the oiue ana white is most effective
An idea that the foremost dressynalsar. - |
taking UP Is the bretelle gown a sort or extSr |
SION or the princess corselet skirt One exap,- !
PIC Is OF pIack panne. with a corselet almost |
10 tne pust ana straight bretelles oyer the \
shoulders The straps and the front az the ,
gown are embroidered with black passementerie |
ana the underblouse is OF black mousselire IA \
sole and Chantilly lace The effect Is thot ns oN |
elegant and coquettish black costume
Another is gown OF ivory cOIored cloth r,aaa
with high corselet and broad bretelles vvhtch |
kurn In WIIINn