The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-18

astio over these needlework triumphs OF
our dsy as women rave been Of late over
the ANTIQUE embroideries hat have played
~s5important a part in Paris fashion.
The loose little bolero, the fichu, the fiat
COLLAR and the yoke and standing collar in
one-the last often finished with berthe
and sleeves and designed to cover almost
the entire bodice OF the frock with which it
L. worn-are the forms usually taken by
these embroidered and lace trimmed lin
perie accessories, but there is infinite variety
within these lines.
The bolero may nave loose flowing elbow
sleeves, broad sleeve caps or no sleeves at
all. It may combine two or three kinds
of lace with hand embroidery, may be all
of lace with inset motifs Of embroidered
batiste or handkerchief linen or heavy
Irish linen, may be wonderfully embroid-
cred and show no lace at all save in border
ing frills, may be round or pointed, short
on long, semi-ftting or full and loose.
As for that most feminine Of things.
the fchu, 1t comes in every imaginable
form, short and long, plain and frilled,
narrow and wide, ornate and simple. In
it's plaincst, though not its least expensive
phase, il is a wide lingerie scarf, shaped
10 TIC 6IDOOlllly dIOuIlu tlC LOCh diu ohOuiN
ers and made with long tapering ends which
may be knotted at the bust and fall loosely
to below the waist line. The edges are
ecalloped and have a narrow or deep Dor
der Of hand embroidery.
A deeper kerchief shaped fiohu with mar
row lace edged frills bordering it and en-
,broidery or inset lace above the fril is
DELIGHTFULLY."- graceful but even in sheer
soft null or kerchief linen it is slightly
more bulky and not 80 becoming to some
women as the fatter scarf fichu.
There are fat collar shaped arrangements
covered by embroidery and bordered by
null and lace frills. the whole making a
cape or pelerine shaped shoulder drapery
and fastening on the bust, with a ruoh
and long scarf ends, and there are veritable
little p~elerine capes Of lingerie and lace
and embroidery whose fronts run in a point
to the waist line and are supplemented
there by long scarf ends Of embroidered or
lace edged null, or OF wide very soft rib
bon. Sometimes as in one Of the capes
sketched here, an embroidered collar and
revers or collar and revers Of lace turn back
upon the cape fronts.
Other draped models In lingerie or ALE
over lace and embroidery are cut to lie fat
over the shoulder and to form little frilly
bhoulder caps or, rather, sleeve caps. Just
In front Of the shoulders the material is
caught up under q motif OF heavy en-
broidery on Irish crochet, and from that
point the fulness Is draped softly to the
waistline, below which 1t hangs in loose
ends.
A number Of these ample lingerie draper
les or fchus have the V shaped opening
which they leave at the throat, filed In with
a plastron Of fine valenciennes, hand stitch
cry, TO-, 90 that the fichu will form q COM
,plete waist trimming and would make Of
even o very simple skirt and plain blouse
In prett , cotton stuff an extremely dainty
and elaborate frock.
TuF ths woma TO whom fichu drapery
h not becoming are bodies trimmings such
as are represented In two Of the sketches
smooth fitting Jokes made in one with stand
ing collars and running out over the shoul-
ders to farm sleeve caps, and down in a point
to the wastiine. These two will give
cachet to the simplest bodice, and though,
as has been said, such things at their finest
are all expensive, it will rot cost as much
to buy one Of them ready made as to nave
such an idea carried out in a gown made to
order by a dressmaker capable Of achieving
the desired result.
Narrow embroidered collars OF fine lingerie
material. such as were fashionable upon
the bolero coats last summer. are here again
in great quantities, and the hand made
specimens are often exquisitely beautiful.
Turn back cuffs for elbow coat sleeves are
offered en- suite with some Of these collars,
but the sleeve finish is such an uncertain