Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-14

TTHE spring bonnet, dear to the
heart of the professional joke
writer's no longer occupies that
II supreme position in the world of
millinery that would justify its
being the subject of prose and poetry.
Four times a year at least does the fash
ionable woman of today consider it abso-
lutely essential to her welfare and happi-
ness to sally forth in a new creation OF
the milliner's art. and the spring bonnet
Is merely included in the general outfit of
the year.
Autumn and winter fashions are now
absorbing the attention of the feminine
world and those gifted beings who have
furnished the des gns this season have GER
tainly evolved traps to ensnare the most
penurious. for surely never before was
there such a bewildering display of new
shapes. new colors and new materials in
the way of headgear. There are no end of
smart. rather eccentric. shapes that re-
quire close study of the right angle to
be becoming. There are exaggeratedly
large shapes on the picture order which
demand a couture in keeping, while there
are also endless varieties in shapes among
the more reasonable medium sizes. The
prices asked for the so-called unique shapes
are rather overwhelming. but, while there
are plenty of women whs can afford to
choose the hats they like without stopping
TO ask the price there are many more who
must needs stop and consider carefully the
amount of money they have to spend.
These last will find this season that their
lot in life is not pathetic after all, for
there never were SO many smart and be-
coming hats of medium price to be had as
at the present time, and to wear an unbe-
coming hat is simply proof of lack OF
taste-a lack of vanity rather than poverty.
When the question of expense does not
enter into the choice of winters outfit
hr hat Drnh
gown, but it is quite possible for a woman
to get along and look smart also with two
hats-one on the simple, rather severe, or
der for everyday wear. and one more elab-
crate for afternoon. Theater hats are an
other proposition, it being considered obli-
gatory to wear hats, and those on the pic
ture order, if occupying box. In the or
binary orchestra or balcony seats no hats
are allowed, so the term theater hat is
somewhat ambiguous. The so-called thea
ter hat is most elaborate affair, and is,
in truth, the same that is worn Tor dining
or supping at public restaurant.
X
Soft felt and beaver hats trimmed with
stiff wings ribbon or velvet bows are most
attractive this season and are to be seen
both in light and dark colors-color, by the
way, playing an all-important part in this
seasons millinery. The stiff, bright-col-
ored wings might puzzle an ornithologst
longed. but Dame Fashion does not hold to
the belief that nature unadorned is always
the most desirable, and the aid of bright
colors furnished by the dyer's art often
produces a more satisfactory colored plu-
mage than the original There are not
many hats with trimmings of the same
color. n twist OF velvet in some sharp con-
trast and large bow at the side, If bright
wings are not used being thought very
smart. Both velvet and ribbon bows play
an all-important part in trimmings and
it is marvellous how many different effects
are secured by the clever arrangement or
rosette cockade or mass of stiff bows
piled one on top of the other and covering
the entire side of the hat.
The different angles at which the hats
are worn most bewildering, although
now the back and front of the hat are
more clearly defined and it is no longer
possible as it was last spring, to wear the
front at the back. All the smaller shapes
are bent folded. and the shaggy felts
and beavers are more used than the stiff
ones and this notwithstanding that there
are many very attractive shapes with sun,
unyieding crowns and brims.
In larger shapes velvet hats are to be
seen made over both stiff and soft founda-
lions Many of the brimS are turned down
in the mushroom effect. as it is called but
this is not to be rashly recommended. as the
shape is a very trying one. 1t is still fash
ionabe to have trimming beneath the brinl.
and indeed. there are many hats which
appear to have more trimming underneath
the brim than on the hat itself, masses of
maline in which half hidden sprays
md plumes fill in the space between the
hat and the hair that even the fashionably
full couture has failed to do, while often
stiff wings or ostrich tips are placed at the
vide and back under the brim
-
Ostrich feathers are more fashionable
than ever. and there is no limit to the
length that is used. Placed around the
crown and dropping down to the shoulders
is not considered too exaggerated. and
the fullest of feathers are in great demand.
There is again a note of the picturesque in
these feather-trimmed shapes. the dropping
brim and the long feather having more
than mere resemblance to old English
prints OF demure maid and maiden,
while the always becoming and popular
Gainsborough is also represented both in
the black and colored velvet or soft beaver
hats The long black plume and the pink
and yellow rose. half hidden in the folds
Of maline appeals irresistibly to almost
the fashion will become too popular, espe-
cially as it requires careful treatment and
can easily be caricatured.
All black hats, fortunately for the eco
nomically minded to be immensely
fashionable and will be worn with all sorts
of gowns. With the light theater gown
the all-black hat is once again cons. dered
smart and it must be admitted, is often
more becoming and effective than the col
ored although the pale pink, blue and
yellow hats are most charming and dainty.
black hats with colored wings very
smart at the moment, but il is not safe to
count on their being so for any length of
time. Invariably in the early autumn do
these black hats with bright trimmings
erd favor and almost invariably as the