The Washington herald., 1906-11-25


only bring back TO town the last OF the
summer loiterers at country homes or
abroad. but VIII show grand array OF
rev clothes. many Of them right from
Paris. and all teeming with hints for the
wise women in search Of ideas as 20 what
is what In the way of really smart dress
ing.
The weddings Of the coming week, the
several important afternoon receptions,
with the never-failing dinner parties will
bring out some OF the newest and prettiest
possessions in the way OF millinery of the
average fashionable maid and matron.
The baroness Hengelmuller. wife OF the
Ambassador from AusTia-Hungary, and
the handsOmest woman of the diplomatic
ccrps, long noted as one Of the best
gowned women in America, Is wearing an
extremely smart costume Of tobacco
brown broadcloth and round hat Of brown
French felt, tripqmed IN the same shade
Of velvet, lightened by a touch OF yellow
The latter color appears in narrow 'el-
vet band edging the fold of the brown Vel-
vet about the crown. and in the TWO
handsome brown wings placed well TO the
left of the ehapeau The broWn skirt
cloth is mtrimmed, and. except for four
very shallow box pleats, is perfectly PLAIN
The pleats are alike back and front. ana
slightly narrower at each side, the eHect
being straight rather than circular as re-
CARDS the grain Of the cloth-
The coat is a combination Of pony
Jacket and bolerO, the back ending IN
four-inch pleating Of cloth, headed oy q
eurved band of brown silk braid an inch
wide. The braid is carried up the body
of the coat in two curved lines. which
end in tiny bows, held by small gold
buckles. lust under the shoulders. The
front is treated in the same brown oraad'
extending well up the shoulder ana Iast-
ened by large metal buttons, showing
bronze and gold colors. 4 collar Of white
cloth about three inches in depth. ex-
ouisitelv embroidered in brown tones, fin
ishes the neck, and ends in narrow
curve 1T the bust
The sleeves. are Of the approved seven
eIghths length. made with only slight
fullness and pleated into narrow Gun
Of cloth and braid. The blouse worn with
this is Of cream lace. with sleeves slight
~ shorter than those Of the jacket and
of white or a brown exactly matching
the broadclOth.
For evening wear, Baroness Hengelmui-
Ter is very partial 10 white, an infinite
variety being given her wardrobe by the
selection of different materials, ranging
from the most delicate laces to the heay-
lest of brOcades At present she is wear
ing a white satin recently imported from
Paris which has as its most distinct
note six bows Of moss green velvet
The skirt, which is made with long,
round train. gets its proper fare from a
single very deep pleat at each side Of the
narrow front breadth, the only trimming
being the bows, which are OF velvet rib
bon less than two inches IN width and
made with long loops and no ends. They
are graduated in size, the largest beins
placed four inches frcm the bottom of
The skirt. with each one slightly smaller
the upper one coming Just below the
knees. Each bow is fastened BY rhine
stone buckle.
The bodice is pointed in front and
rounded at the waist line in the back
where il fastens under a soft fold OF the
satin. No seams are visible IN the bodice
the satin being dTaped on a perfectly
fitted foundation and worn without gir-
die. II is. Of course, decOlleje, edged
by narrow band of the velvet studded
with rhinestOnes. The shoulders are COW
cred by three tiny straps of chiffon and
rhinestones, and the sleeves, which fall
from the shoulders to the elbow, are
composed of three full ruffies Of lace and
chiffon.
Lady Alan Johnstone. who was Miss
Antoinette Pinchot, Of New York, prior
TO her marriage to the Hon. Alan John
stone, of the British diplomatic service
now King Edwards Minister TO Den
mark. Is at present one Of the mos
strikingly distinguished women In Wash
ingtoa. She IS wearing a skirt and jacket
OF black-and-white check which shows
some novel features The skirt. in thC
first place, is without any pleats Ol
tGcl5s, being cut in just three pieces, and
perfectly close-ftting about the hips, with
the necessary fare at the bottom pro-
duced by the circular sides, which come
together in a bias seam in the back
The front breadth Is comparatively mar
row, made the straight way Of the goods
The only trimming consists of two bias
bands. IL inches in width, which cross the
bottom OF the skirt IN the back, but at the
side seams turn sharply and go half way
sharp point.
The jacket IS close-ftting and single
breasted, with a shallow turn-back cloth
collar. lined with dark gray silk, the
foundation Of the skirt also being silk OF
the same color. A blouse of white en-
brojdered French mOUsseline is worn with
this. and down the front of the blouse
are set tiny pink ribbon bows, Just one
and one-half inches apart. from neck "a
belt, the latter being Of dull brown
leather, with leather-covered buckle
The hat is a large soft French felt
with rolling brim turned I'd at the left
side, a soft, loose fold Of chiffon velvet
the color Of the felt, which Is between a
brown and a gray, goes about the crown
which Is further beauuded with a won.
derful plume Of long cOque feathers il
castor and black.
dinner gown worn by Lady Johnstone
last week is a regal creation Of black vel
vet, made princess with a full square train
fully three yards in length from waist line
10 hem. The low corsage IS finished in q
network Of cut jet following the lines OF
the figure to a depth Of six inches. anC
ending in two long strands of Jet falling
TO the knees The short sleeves OF elbow
length are composed entirely Of ruffies OF
cream lace, which same lace edges tht
neck. The latter trimming is a double
ruffie two inches deep. a dog collar OF
diamonds. with spray of the same jewel!
worn IN the hair, completes this toilet.
The smartest Of Baroness Won Stern
burg's visiting toilets. which is also hei
favorite gown for weddings or ceremo
nious IuncheOns. is OF a smoke-gray vel
vet. new and. 20 a less faultless com