Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-28
CUSTOMS At OXFORD
Most of the Ancient Practices
Have Been Given Up.
GIVING NEEDLE AND THREAD
Liveries That Were Formerly Worn by
the Students.
COMMENCEMENT DAY EXERCISES
Ceremony Picturesque and the For
mula Amusing in Many Respects
Undergraduate Buffooneries.
BY WILLIAM E. CURTIS.
Special Correspondence of The Star and the Chicago
Record Herald.

University are observed with scrupulous
fidelity. but unfortunately, most of them
nave become obsolete or have been aban-
doned during centuries of changing fashion.
The disadvantage of this fact is being
realized by those who are in power and
Also by the students of today. And it in
sreases their reverence for the customs
hat have been retained.
For example, at Queens College, which
las preserved more than some of the others
zach student receives a needle with a silk
thread of the color of his faculty Chico
ogians black, lawyers blue, ordinary stu
tents red), and is soemnlys admonished to
Use this and be thrifty" This ceremony
occurs at dinner given annually on New
Year day, and dates from the year 1910,
when students and fellows were compelled
70 mend their own hoods and gowns
The cap and gown date back to that
Tune. mere stlll remains among the regu-
latlons OF the university statute passed
In 1432 setting forth the manner in which
they should be worn. Among other curious
conditions is one which allows under
graduate sons of peers and members of
parliament to wear the robes and hoods of
masters of arts. The hood in those days
was not a mere adornment, or badge, but it
lad practical use as an article of dress to
cover the head. In the summer, from
Easter to All Saints day, the students were
allowed to wear Siken hoods During the
winter they wore hoods lined with lambs
wool or rabbit fur. In 1889 it was ordained
that:
Whereas, the B. A. in the different fac
ulties, careless of the safety of their own
souls, who were wearing hoods insufficiently
lined with fud, were allowed a fortnight to
have them repaired"
The danger to their souls was incurred
by the sin of perjury involved in their
neglect of regulation which they had
taken a solemn cath to obey This regula-
n a mo hnr of no l,,,i, arcftx
to wear the dress proper for their de-
grees.
In order to protect the students against
their tailors a regulation was passed in
1853 giving the length of the gown and
fixing the price. If any tailor violated
the regulation he was to be fined and i'm
prisoned, and for the second offense was to
Ne banished from the city.
The Student "Liveries"
Some of the founders of colleges described
explicitly what livery the students should
wear For example Robert Egglesfield
prescribed that the fellows of Queens Col
iege should always dine in purple cloaks,
color Ito suit the dignity of their position
md to be like the blood of Our Lord
The mortar-board cap was not adopted
until after the reformat ton, and 1 have not
been able to ascertain how why it was
originally introduced. A writer named
Gascoigne in 1856 tells us that the beretta,
or round cap, was worn by doctors of divin-
ity and canon law ever since the days of
King Alfred, and was prescribed by God
himself to His ministers.
The familiar word "tuft-hunting" which
means TO seek the society of distinguished
people. used frequently by >fhackeray in
his Book of Snobs," originated among the
students at Oxford where an ancient GUS
tom allows the sons of noblemen to wear
tufts or gold taSSelS their caps. There
are frequent references to this custom in
those Incompatible stories of student life,
at nvfo r1p ov,I w. lo,>
Green"
The custom of wearing scholastic livery"
Is In decadence. / am afraid, If one may
Judge from present appearances. 1 have
seen many learned dons. fellows and other
members Of the faculties since have been
here and every blessed one Of them has
worn tweed knlckerbockers. Norfolk
jacket and a bicycle cap
Comforting the Degrees.
Degrees at Oxford are conferred upon
days appointed by the vice chancellor of
which notice is given by the tolling of the
bell of st. Marys Church on High street.
where the beautiful Amy Robsart, the
heroine Of Sir Walter SCOTS 'Kenil-
worth" is buried. Notice Is also given
In the newspapers and In the calendar of
events for the college year. The date is
as fixed as that of the commencement ex-
ercises in any Of our institutions, never
for an hour the morning of the day.
In 1919 candidate for a degree from
Worcester College, who failed to appear In
time made the excuse that he was not
able to hear the bell because the wind
blew in the other direction.
st. Mary's. which is the university chapel,
must not be confused with st. Mary's Hall,
Familiarity known among the undergrad
yates as "Skimmery.'
The names of all candidates tor degrees
must be posted ten days in advance outside
the door of the Sheldonian Theater to
enable tradesmen-to collect their bills be-
fore their customers leave the uniyer-
sity.
The ceremony Is picturesque and the
formula, amusing in many respects and
full of significance. is only a partial sur
vival of centuries. The most interesting
features have been dropped. however. Only
a few have been retained. The cere-
monies occur in the Sheldonian Theater,
one of the greatest works of that emf
nent architect. Sir Christopher Wren,
erected at the expense Of Archbishop Shell
don. who was too conscientious to permit
the buffooneries of the students to be
carried on in a building consecrated to the
worship of God. 1t was Wrens first great
work, and many consider it one of his
best. He designed it when he was only
thirty years of age. and the writers of
the time describe him. as "a miracle Of a
youth and "a prodigious young scholar"
Archbishop Sheldon a very wise man,
and in this benefaction set an example
which should be followed by all men who
erect buildings for education. charity and
other benevolent purposes. He left fund
of $4,000 invested in lands real estate in
the city of Oxford. the revenues from
which perpetually devoted to keeping
the building in repair.
Student Buffooneries.
The ''buffooneries'' INDUCED in by the un-
dergraduates every year ON commemoratton
days, as they are called, are officially recog-
nized as part of the program. as much
as the solemn acts performed by the vice
chancellor, but they would not be toll
Grated In any American institution. In
1876 the university authorities attempted
to secure moderation by seating ladies
among the undergraduates in the gallery,
but the disorder was worse than ever and
sad to relate. it was encouraged by the
feminine visitors. 1t is said that the most
impressive scene that ever occurred in
the Sheldonian the installation of the
Duke of Wellington as chancellor of the
university in 1893. The most stormy scene
in it's history was provoked by a discus
sion upon vivisection In the university lab
oratory, and perhaps the next most famous
event was the performance Of Handers
oratorio. "Athalah," especially written for
the occasion and conducted by the author.
Handel declined the degree of doctor Of