The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-07-29
MORE COLOR IN MEMS DRESS.
HOT WEATHER GAVE ONE NEW
YORKER hrs CHANCE
TO Parade Fifth Avenue I'm POngee BLK
Under q yellow n Green sunshade
and Not Cause o Stampede --British
Blamed for Modern Clumsy Male Attire.

Blamed for Modern Clumsy Male Attire.
This summer In New York has served to
show how strong tho note Of individuality
has become In mems views Of dress. One
day last week when the weather was hottest
and the midday sun had cleared the avenue
Of everything but lamp posts and cops, n
we'll known member OF half o dozen clubs
started to saunter from one In Thirty
second street to another at Fifty-frst
street, where he expected to take lunch.
He ignored the demands OF the hanson
drivers on the street and astonished the
persons In vehicles who know him by sight
by protecting himself from the glare Of the
sun by a yellow pongee umbrella lined with
green.
, He wore q light silk pongee suit OF the
customary champagne hue. II was OF the
kind made up by the London tailor to send
to their customers in India. These suits are
usually made with q waistooat, but the
New Yorker had left that on. The trousers
were worn with q belt and the sack coat
followed the outlines Of the figure closely.
The sleeves were finished with three small
white ivory buttons. The trousers were not
Gu, to be turned up at the bottom. Inc
white silk shirt which was visible at the top
OF the low cut coat was pleated, and the
soft cuffs were turned back. A very low
collar and blue knit tie, little more than an
inch wide, worn with a very low turned
down collar, were other details OF this
striking costume. White cotton gloves
which seemed supererogatory in such heat,
low tan shoes and white silk stockings
helped to retain the light color scheme OF
his attire.
Such dress makes, Of course little or no
difference to prevailing modes, although
the New Yorker who had 1t on 10 very care
full in matters Of attire and represents to
many persons the best taste. This Is at
other seasons Of the year, however. He
was coura geous enough In summer to dress
as he wanted to, and although the result was
q getup quite out Of the ordinary, 1t was
perfect in its way. The silk pongee suit
came from one Of London's best tailors.
His shoes had the St. James street tag
and the birthmark Of the diaphanous silk
shirt was the label OF q Paris maker whose
products carry his fame to all quarters of
the world. In other details he had been
as particular. The three studs in his shirt
were turquoise trimmed with gold and
larger stones OF the same kind were in his
unstarched cuffs. A tiny turquoise was
in his cravat.
That this apparition did not create a
stampede is evidence Of the extent to which
men may now dress as they please. 1t is
this possibility Of dressing as men want
20 without making themselves ridiculous
that will have an important effect on mems
dress In the future. Men will soon be able
70 indulge. moro than they do now the taste
which is constantly expressing itself in
protests against sobemess Of mems dress.
They will be able in a short time to revel
In all the color they desire II the use Of 30
many vivid shades continues to increase.
They have been discussing In Paris the
extent to which a we'll dressed man may
tastefully indulge in oolors. To the Anglo
IA yon mind the Gallo taste in dress Is
bizarre. 1t is a surprise, therefore, to find
how conventional the views are when that
popular French institution. a symposium.
VAS started in order to discuss the opinions
on the subject.
Albert Lambert. OF course, gave his views
first. He Is the adored jeune premier Of
the Comedie Franqaise and occupies In
the French theatre q place analogous to
that Of John Drew in this country. He
Ia saidto be the best dressed actor In France,
although Judged by London or New York
standards he Is hopelessly unsmart.
Although Albert Lambert has always
been considered In. France q bit Of anAnglo-
maniac, he blames perfdious Albion for
the olumsy3 sombre dress to which men
are nowadays condemned. He sees no
way OF improving the present situation,
and especially disapproves OF any attempt
to adopt ancient styles TO every day uses.
He believes hat the men Of France would
all be wearing ideal toys to-day II mems
dress had been allowed to develop from
the time OF Charles X. In the direction
fashion was taking. At that psychological
moment English models In mems clothes
conquered Europe, and the day OF ohivalry
In dress was gone forever.
Antonio de la Gandara, the painter, thinks
our dress exactly suited to the age We live
In and believes that every period creates
the kind Of costume suited to Its pursuits
and character, He thinks that musketeers'
hats, flying cloaks, satin brooches and lace
ruffs are irreconoilable with the time in
which we live, This authority could afford
to express such satisfaction with the pres
emit styles, az he usually wears costumes
Of dark blue OF olaret velvet.
From london there comes frequently
the same protest against the monotony
Of mems dressi with emphasis on the de-
nunoiations Of the dress coat. London
makers are said to be preparing dark blue
dress coats for evening wear, with velvet
collars for all kinds Of evening dress. The
velvet collars have been seen here and
never became popular. The blue suits
which are expected TO arrive next fall will
be entirely new.
1t Is not difficult to foresee their fate.
Well dressed men In New York have been
loyal to black and white as the only shades
permissible for evening veal, and they
have roasted all temptation to depart from
the usual form. More than q decade age
several young men Of wealth ven to the
large balls and the opera In short black
satin brooches. Nobody ever showed
any disposition to follow their example
and they soon returned to the simplicity
OF their earlier fashions. Such will be the
probable fate Of all attempts to reform
evening dress in New York. The ruffied
and pleated shirts which were worm by
James Haten Hyde found no imitators,
AVIAN AMONG his fallow d~ireotora Mt the oDara