The San Francisco call., 1906-10-14

rail. and II IS journey or wonderful
interest The distance is $40 miles and
the time about twenty-five hours.
The first feature of Cuban railway
travel TO attract our especial attention
are the ''ruraIes." or rural police. Two
of these soldiers ride on every train
that runs in Cuba; trim. weli-buiit
young fellows they are as a rule. dress Il
ed in uniforms OF khaki armed TO the
teeth. and ready to shoot at a mo-
ment's notice They are responsible II
for the preservation of law and order
throughout the great plantation dis
tricts which have been left desolats
and almost uninhabsted by the recent /
war for Cuban liberty. Nearly every
native we see along the way. whether
at the stations or on the trains. car
rieS a wicked-lOoking 'machete'' buck
led to his belt ready for any emergency.
From Havana to Matanzas the train
passes through some of the most mag
nificent agricultural garden spots that
the world nolds-wonderful planta-
tions of waving sugar-cane. cocoanut
groves, banana orchards and AL the
great wealth Of a tropical country
spreading away on every side to the
foothills or 70 the sea. The soil OF
this modern Eden is a marvel OF rich
ness. AS soon as one crop is har-
vested another is planted, and so rich
is the soil that from three TO four
crops in one year may be produced
on the same ground. The farming
operations are Of an exceeding gly prim-
tive character. the ordinary plOw Of
Cuba resembling that Of Egypt. being
merely a crooked stick with which the
surface OF the ground Is scratched
The ordinary home Of the country Gu
ban is a palm-thatched hut beneath
the broad leaves OF a cluster OF banana
trees. and one Of the most startling.
though common. sights OF this land OF
surprises is to come upon the childraD
numbers running about beneath the
palms clad only IN their smiles OF
childish innocence
Caves of Glittering Crystal.
Through the rich, deep verdurs OF
sequestered valleys we come at last
to the beautiful city OF Matanzas. with
its historic old castle. its splendid har-
Dor and its lovely plaza. In a curious
native two-wheeled carriage, called a
''volante" with a couple OF frisky
mules hitched tandem. we journey from
Matanzas over roads OF unbelievable
roughness to the wonderful Caves OF
Bellamar. which are immense grottoes
extending for several miles under the
ground. a veritable fairyland Of gilt
tering crystals. sparkling stalactites
pendent from every inch OF ceiling. and
equally beautiful stalagmites rising
from the bottom OF the caves to meet
them, while here and there we come
upon delicious little pools and rivu-
let's OF water. pure as crystal. Many
of these brilliant chambers are tinted
with rose and purple and other dainty
colors, and the forms into which these
gIittering stalactites have fashioned
themselves in the vast passages OF this
subterranean wonderland are simply
amazing; gorgeous thrones and altars.
ice-covered ships ans palaces burst
upon US from the darkness as IL by
magic as our dusky guide goes before
US with his fiaring torch OF cocoa fat
Through the old States OF Santa
Clara, Puerto Principe and Santiago we
revel In the delights OF a tropical
jungle wilderness which Is simply be-
wildering In its tangled glory OF feath-
cry bamboo. stately royal palms hung
with gigantic vines. mahogany. Hgnum-
vitae and ebony trees. and all ablaze
with tropical flowers. At Santiago de
Cuba, the oldest city on the Western
Hemisphere, we visit the scenes OF
newly made history. old MORO Castle
and the narrow channel where gallant
Hobson sank the Merrimac. the battle
field of Santiago and San Juan Hill Ths
tangled thickets are now filed with
the melody of mocking birds and night
fnga1es; and all these fields and hill
sides. once wet with brave blood. shed
in the cause OF Cuban liberty. are ra-
diant with lOveliest flowers. The mys-
tic charm OF the great moss-draped
expresses enthralls US, and amid the
weird beauty OF a tropical forest glow
ing with orchids we bid farewell 20
Cuba The air trembles with the
rapture Of bird song and all the world
seems filled with the incense OF this