Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-04

ing business In the curious wine town o.
Bercy close by. walled town within Paris.
Being perfect connoisseurs. they are the
true stimuiators OF The house. Such men
are the backbone OF France. and they
would laugh to have Dish named after
them.
eign residents OF Paris for whom Frederic
names his dishes There Is the lobster
Aiexander. the John osy zegroart veal. the
Dr Pendergast puilet. the fsh voi-au-yent
Stanhope and Dowther. Rathbone. Tuck, j.
w. Mackey and Gen. Williams eggs,
Probably there are thirty English and
Americans convinced that Frederic In per
fecting his already celebrated duck. gave
II their name. and doubtless he can show
on pages of his book. both Belt and Bennett
variations But the duck type was really
settled years ago and every duck is num-
bered.
All the Ducks Are Numbered.
Yours is the 81. 65ath duck of the house"
says Frederic to the hattered customer
You get card certificate to that effect.
This duck 1 once heard solemn idiot
declare to rapt audience Of young la
dies. is a young female duck that has
never laid an egg 1t Is strangied. that
not drop of its blood escape. II is roast
ed to the juiciest polnt-and brought TO me
to look at,.'
Obi said the young ladies'
Then Frederic jumps II into a chafinx
dish, slices of the best parts and serves
them to me in the sauce he concocts under
my own eyes. For this the carcass Is put
into steel press and reduced TO brickbat
while the generous juices gushi To these
are added the chopped liver and the cook
ing juices, a little port wine and just the
right quantity of burning brandy
No great Paris restaurant Is able to resist
this naming OF dishes after specially good
customers. The Rejane whiting lies on a
bed OF Dreaded mashed potatoes, being
stuffed with oysters, shrimps and sliced
truffies. The Sarah (BernhardO barbet Is
poached, garnished with chopped trufies
and celery with a Venetian sauce. Rosslni
did himself invent the eggs-on-toast on
slices OF foie-gras and truffies IN Madeira
sauce that still bear his name: but do you
imagine Boni invented the Casteiane po-
tato or that Jimmy" invented the James
Hyde peach?
You get the peach at Durands. First 1t
Is poached. You poach a peach as you
would poach an egg and pour kirsch over
II, which you ignite. This completes the
cooking of the peach. and the burnt kirsch
forms very delicate sauce.
I But II was in reality Invented at PAIL
lard's thirty years ago, to please that mon
umentai old gourmet, Prince Galitzne-
Frederic was formerly a Paillard chef. as
was the late Joseph Charles, who owns the
Cafe de Paris and the Pavilion dArmenon-
vile. and Henry, who entertains Americans
at the Cafe Gallon. Thirty years ago. at
Paillard's, they stuck the peach full of al
mondS ana poured over IL q RASPBERRY
syrup Today you will get 1t at Voisin's,
called after the Grand Duke Alexis-with
the raspberry sauce, and at the last mo-
ment wet with kirsch and mariscnino. light
ed and flaming. And the Melba poached
peach is the same with kirsch and maris-
chino unburned and covered with a vanilla
ice In circle of raspberry PURGE.
Boni de Castellane Potato.
1t is quite possible that Bonl de Castel-
lane invented the potato bearing his name.
1t is baked potato in its Jacket. They
cut out it's centre till 1T Is something of a
shell. but with some good plain potato still
round it's inside you understand? Into 1t
there is stuffed q farce of crayish, the
mashed yolks and chopped whites OF hard
boiled eggs, and cream and seasoning. Then
the hole is closed, the potato is put back
into the oven and they serve it-as a sur
prise.
The Marquis de Massa says he ate 1t as
the ''Pome Georgette' in the days of the
second empire; and when such a double
barreied gastronomic expert speaks up;
such young beginner gourmets as Marcal
FouQuier, the Due de Morny, Boni de cas-
telIane James Hyde and Santos Dumont
listen with humility. Even the theatrical
gallery of restaurant stars-Coquelin, de
Feraudy, Bernheim, Brasseur, Capus, Max.
Guitry. Feydaun Mounet-Sully and Maui
rice Donnay-stop showing of. The Mar
uuis de Massa really invents dishes. Re-
Gently he gave the world the piquant dish
of quaiis that he has wished to bear the
name Of Capus. The quails are poched
In a saucepan completely cooked at slow
ebullition) together with a good quantity
of not-quite-ripe Muscatel grapes. When
nearly done pour in little Madeira wine.
All me- what fascination!