The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-09-02
FRESH CHARM IN THE WRAP.
AUTUMN COPIES or SUMMERS
GRACEFUL GARMENTS.

vesumfnOus Carriage and Evening CIOaLS
and Louis XVI. and Egyptian wraps
Materials Well suited 60 Their Purpose
The summers modes have developed
many extraordinarily graceful a pict-
ureAque wraps, and 1t IL q foregone con-
cluaion that the ideas embodied In these
artistic garments will tind further express
sion In carriage aud evening cloaks to be-
Worn during the coming winter.
Cloth, velvet and silk suitable for winter
wear are all now made In such Hoft and
supple guiSe that they will lend them
selvce readily TO drapery and ample folds,
and fur will but add richness TO the models.
For that matter, even the sheer materials
such a. crepe and moussellne and lace are
nowadays pressed into service for winter
evening coats, and almost any one OF the
exquisite summer cloaka, save those OF
linen, might very well be copied for winter
evening wear.
For daytime use the picturesque voiumi-
nous cloaks In which the chic PArisians
have revelled this summer appeal to but a
small class. They belong TO the woman
Of the luxurious carriages, OF the dainty
salons, Of the lnnumerable frocks and hats
and wraps, and they are appropriate only
In such a rich setting.
The h walks, who rides on
street cars, who climbs elevated road steps,
who has few costumes, need not concern
herself with Restoration n Louis XVI.
and Egyptian wraps in planning her day
time toilets, but even she may give her
self over to picturesquenese in the matter
Of an evening coat, and to-day any woman
who makes sven the smallest pretensions
10 being well dressed has her evening
oat.
Surely never were materials better
adapted to the purposes Of that same eve
ming coa than are the fabrics OF to-day.
The silks and velvets have lost their sti1-
ness while losing none Of their richness
and beauty and lend themselves readily
70 every trick Of drapery and graceful
lire. The erstwhile stiff and uncom-
promising broadcloth has become rs supple
As crepe, almost as lustrous.
And behind these heavier coat materials
Ia the host Of soft shimmering silken stuffs
Included In the list Of evening coa
materials. Surely the designer Of such
coats has his opportunity now, and q surely
be Is improving that opportunity.
AS nav DOru SuBkoGOoup AOulS ANAsp
Restoration and Egyptian ideas are the
favoritos with the cloak designers and this
condition OF things will probably endure
throughout the coming season. Chit IN
broadcloth Is the ideal material for all Of
the variations upon the Egyptian ideas
and even the simpler cloth models II skill
fully draped have a distinct elegance.
That proviso Of skilful draping however
IL likely TO mean costliness, for It takes q
master hand TO achieve the artistic in drap-
cry and limo, and master hands command
high prices. Still, even American manu-
facturers u out pretty dr1ped models in
fine cloth which are desirable, even though
they may not attain the charm Of detail
and the originality and grace Of certain
Partisan creations, and we rave seen adj
vance modes of ample capelike cloaks in
finest cloth Of delicate shades which are
pretty enough to please sven q fastidious
woman, Jet arc not extravagantly ex-
pensive.
Some Of those models have no trimmings
beyond q capuchon and scarf arrangement
Of lace or silk or silk mousssline. Others,
and these are In the majority, are simply
trimmed In nat silk braids matching the
cloth in color. Heavy laoes, soutache,
bands, ruches and transverse plating of
silk, embroidery, out work and applique
are all in order for the trimmings Of such
ooata, and velvet will also Be associated
with cloth.
Both OF the models selected for the
sketches printed here were carried out In the
and SIMPLEST Of cloth and these two
are fairly illustrative Of the class, though
they differ broadly. and innumerable other
differences In line and detail may be found
among the cloaks Of this general type.
In one Of these cloaks the enormous
falling In with the full folds Of tho
coat, Ii the striking feature and the trimming
Of bordering bands Of embroidery.
The other model 10 even more capelike In
but the fulness is set on a
deep rounded yoke which falls In closely
to the back half way to the waist line and
both yoke and arm opening are deliberately
in soutache matching the cloth.
A band Of velvet borders the neck and
Of velvet are set into the braid
ing design.
A beautiful cloth cloak In soft gray, with
interlacing, latticelike cut work borders
and embroidery Of gray chenille n rather
large steel beads, Ia one Of the early Fifth
AVcnuo mpOIJhJlOub ana Will mAho u CuhIW-
ing carriage cloak in connection with n
Of the all gray hats for which the milliners
foresee great success. The same importer
who sent over this gray cloak in advance
of his own return from Paris sent also an
other cloth model in the apple green which
has been 30 much worn in Paris.
This cloak, too, is draped in voluminOus
folds, but has no trimming save a very
smart scarf arrangement Of black panne
which finishes the neck, is caught by big
gold and enamel ornaments at either side
Of the front and falls in long ends finished
by deep knotted silk fringe.
Elaborate evening coats and wraps win
not be on view until later, when the theatre
and social season is fairly in motion, but
descriptions of coming models written
from Paris or given by returning buyers
and tourists promise delightful things.
An Opaque silver gauze has been used az
q foundation for some exquisite evening
cloaks in lace or other semi-transparent
fabrics, and handsome brocades are also
used under sheer materials. through which