Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-01
Who MAKE THE STYLES
Interview on the Paris Fancy
TaiIor-GoWn.>
HOW IDEAS ARE OBTAINED
Inspirations in Designing Modes for
the Fair Sex.
INCIDENTS IN THE BUSINESS
A Real Tip From Headquarters on the
Coming Autumn Costumes
Waists, Basques and Skirts.
DW IDEAS ARE OBTAINED
INCIDENTS IN THE BUSINESS
Special Correspondence Of The Star.
PARIS. August IS, 1903.

Special Correspondence of The Star.
PARIS. August 49, 1905
"Who makes the styles?"
I asked the question of notable woman.
the head Of the famous Klein establishment
OF the Rue Royaqe. Madame Klein Is
young. round. rosy. very pretty-and stylish
beyond words. She probably changes her
frock seven times day. Indeed, some
times think that the. true object of the
great establishment is to supply madame
with new things. But it is not-it makes
styles.
WHO makes the styles?" repeated
madame. why, answer you. the streets of
Paris! Every one and no one. The styles
are an inspiration, an unconscious collabo-
ration. One Of my little work girls came in
this morning wearing very small hat, al
most hidden under an enormous Scotch
plaid ribbon. It was original and delight
full
Paris sewing girls originate the styles?'
In Berlin. monsieur. you find the trottin
very clean and neat. In Paris she is dirty
but her.-hair is beautifully done. We have
girls who make them Louis XIV and Louis
XVI coiffures. --~
They fix up for themselves costumes out
to watch them strolling in the Rue Royale
at the lunch hour-as tourist gentlemen SO
often do. Nor are they at their best at
the sortie in the evening, when they are
tired and depressed. You must see them
arriving in the morning! They come in de-
Hcious little blouses of their fancy. Their
skirts hang perfectly. Their hair is poem
Their hats make styles!'
You are making up your models now for
autumn ana winter, madame" / said. II
cannot imagine how trottin's summer
blouse. however temptingly ajouree In front
of originally tinted ribbons. is to help you
out!'
Pay for the Ideas
'They give ideas-I don't say more. We
take an idea and make 1t ours. of course.
sleeve inspiration Is a sleeve inspiration,
no matter in what material. When an idea
is directly traceable to one of the girls we
pay her for it. Often girls come to us from
the outside with a sleeve idea or a collar
idea to sell us. and 1 have no doubt that
our own girls at times go peddling their
ideas to other houses"
Perhaps they peddle your ideas as well?'
I suggested.
''It is thing that cannot be helped. Que
vouleZ-vous? What will you?" laughed
madame: such leaks help to fix Styles
doubtless!'
stand" said. You are making up your
autumn models-in secrecy, naturally. The
other establishments of the Rue Royale and
the Rue de la Pafx are doing the same. Sup
other houses stick to short sleeves? Who
has to change and follow the other?'
There must be some secret here, Tor
madame did not answer the question d.
rectly.
1--WE make up fifty models" she said
''yet perhaps only ten of them will take
There comes to be run on them. And
their essential ideas-not mere details
come to be used over and over again. We
ourselves go out into the world continually
to the races, the theaters and SO on. Our
cutters. do the same. We get Inspirations
observation-disclosures you must not think
that we depend upon our sewing girls Tor
styles. I only mentioned them to Illustrate
an idea. Thus the true mode changes
slowly in Partisan evolution. Should you
lock dozen of US up in separate rooms we
same styles for autumn"
Madame, you say we As styles can
not be kept secret long, what Is there to
nrevent the sensationally cheap-priced Paris
establishments from turning out pretty
much the same thing as you others of the
Rue Royale?"
''They do. they do" laughed madame:
''They send their wives and daughters and
their cousins and their aunts to buy models
from us. Then they copy them"
'.As low as $20!' said.
, Travesty the Real Model.
1.-THE material in them never costs 40
cents a yard! Good English cloth for tailor
gowns must cost 81 40 per yard, and often
est costs a great deal more. AS to their
lining, you may say 1t is nothing. AS to
fit, the least said the better. They travesty
our model. But. as they exact from one
third to one-half of the price in advance.
the customer is helpless. Tenez, will tell
you how recently made a nice girl a
present without 1t costing me anything but
an amusing quarter Of an houri
"As / passed In front of one Of those
concerns" said madame. II was struck
dumb BY the sight of a swell autumn coat
OF most stylish idea and cut and made OF
magnificent English material We of the
meter, monsieur, cannot be deceived That
coat had cost, to make. every bit Of $50.
and there It was marked retail their $15
mode1g
sAnd you made 1t a present?'
ST did, did," chirped madame. THAT
very evening said to this nice girl. who
is governess and not rich. Go to that
establishment and buy that coat? She
understood, monsieur.
:. Here II SIS for that coat she said
to the salesman.