The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-11-13
THE FASHIONS
COSTUMES FOR THE HORSE
 SHOW EXEMPLIFY COLD MODES
Odd Color Combinations Feature--A Touch of Plaid Very Popular.

CUL OL NAlC CIlGlONiC eIL AeAJ SL Lclllo cillh novelties which the modistes and mill liners originate each autumn, fashion always sets the seal of approval upon such as make their appearance at the Horse Show, so that, whatever is being designed now for wear upon that aus picious occasion, two weeks hence, should very naturally be of moment to every one who is interested in dress.
 Thus far the mild weather has kept the heavier cloths in the background, but as there area number of new weaves which are not only firm but weighty, and which are of exceeding beauty, it is very probable that the coming show will bring them con- spicuously into evidence
 Melton broadeloth has been chosen for one costume, a deep cream color, so deep that 1t has a broadish cast-and it is trimmed with heavy lace and golden brown velvet. The long sweep ing lines and rather severe cut of the empire model, upon which it is built, are peculiarly suited to the soft cling ing qualities of the melton cloth. The skirt has front panel finished at the bottom with three-inch circular foun- ces which have the appearance of tucks As the cloth is firm and thick the edges of the founces are not turned but cut nicely and each is curved where 1t meets the side of the panel, and given a row of machine stitching at the top, where it is sewed to the panel. The circular sides of the skirt are spread apart from the front panel to disclose three founces of Margot lace, tinted to match the gown ma terlal, and are given three founces around the bottom similar to those decorating the panel front with three others of the same width higher up.
 The upper part of the costume embodies the same idea. There is a panel front ending just below the bust in three narrow flounces, while the back and under-arms are similarly arranged Between the front and sides, and the back and sides, lace is let in to hang in 1abot effect to the hip lines, while each ot the tucks or flounces is decorated With two buttons of dull gilt. The neck is cut away ever so slightly in round effect over a collar and yoke of lace. The edges, like the edges of the hree-fold sleeves, are piped with brown velvet, and fine stitching is in- troduced wherever possible The cloth sleeves reach just above the elbow, but there are long, shaped undersleeves which nearly cover the hand, to supple ment their scanty length.
 These long cuffs are one of the most promising fads of the season, and will be made oftentimes of a material quite usually different from that of the gown but not always, of a lace net, or bro cade. They follow the line of the arm closely and fit snugly, and may be fastened either with row of tiny but tons or slipped on over the hand by means of narrow elastics stretched at intervals of an inch or two across the two edges of the underseam, which is first sewed and pressed open in the usual manner, the elastic bands put on, on the inside, of course, and then opened. While the bands are new, this is a satisfactory method; but great care must be taken that the edges do not spread apart, although fly should be sewed to the under side and held in place by a small hook
 While the empire and princess models with their various modificatons still hold sway certain exclusive French rodistes show a preference for the per- fectly round waist and the normal waistline. That the style is gaining ground here Is evidenced by the newest belts which are not shaped and with almost without exception, are just two inches in width. However, this is a season of infinite variety, and individ- ual taste is largely the criterion. So, one may designate the waistline at any point between the armpits and hips where 1t happens to best suit the general lines of the figure
 Most of the women with established regulations for faultless gowning have always appeared in the morning show in severely tailored costumes, and in- dications point that way this year.
 One young matron belonging to that | class has a creation in green under way, beautiful moss shade, showing the brown tints The skirt is circular except for a front panel with two paits | at either side, and there Is a three 1 quarter coat in blazer effect with | marvellous lines in it, and which fits l her perfect figure as though she had | been molded in it. Beginning at the | shoulders, where the pattern takes up | the entire space, the coat is braided in l a silk braid of its own color the design | narrowing to a point at the bottom. | There is velvet collar and velvet cuffs | each supplemented with others of | cloth braided, and the entire costume | is a choice example of elegent simpli- l city.
 In the matter of colors French in- | fluence is noticed in the strange com bination and in the increasing popular 1 dty of the more pronounced shades In l anticipation of the season, some of the | finest models proclaimed the neutral tlnts, but they seem to have given way before the influx of deep, rich colors | BofaeauX, Russian blue, Roman gold | umber, and multitude of green and | browns. Brunettes are revelling in the | return Of coral, and blenders in their l favorNe light blue, of which there is a 1 large range
 Every one sees the touch of plaid. It | Is to be regretted that t is so popular, Tor that presages for it an early death, | and It IS a pretty fad when kept with | in the bounds of good taste. A little