The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-10-25
THE FASHIONS
4 COSTUME OF ROSE CLOTH
 WITH TRIPLE SKIRT.
The Princess Gown Is Too Common to Last--An Odd Little Shoulder Cape.

A PcIty CoSCuHe OL rose clOtn was seen in Fifth Avenue hotel the other day The triple skirt had it's scant founces cut into a point In front and straight round in the back, except for deml-train, and was in flatly stitched plaits, The short, square Eton was cut in overlapping shaped capes, four in number, which were slightly above the g1rdle, and terminated with a silk tassel' It was cut square In the neck, and had six small gilt buttons down the centre. The very short puffed sleeves were finished with widestitched cuffs, matching the skirt and coat, whose charm was in the quality of the material and the cut rather than in wealth of detail in trimming accessor- les. The only touches of trimming be- yong the stitching were the tassels and two oval motifs in the material cut out and appliqued on the back of the jacket.
 At the same place were seen two other beautiful costumes more dresses of occasion" and one Bearing the un- mistakable mark of Paris. This was a princess gown of the palest pearl gray chiffon cloth. Just glimpse of this disclosed that both back and front were panelled down the middle with a plain vest narrow at the waist and wider at the bottom of the skirt run ming from the top to the bottom, except for the lace yoke in the front. These panels were bordered on each side by row of gray buttons, crochet or silk covered. The bodice was draped across the bust, and the lace yoke and elbow sleeves were almost concealed by a wide white feather boa. The beauty of this exquisite frock was in the long sweeping lines of the panels worn on slender, rounded igure-and the artisticaly draped folds of it's upper half. A large black picture hat, in simple, dropping style, with long pale gray plume, completed most satis- flying costume.
 The other dress was of navy blue grenadine of woolly texture, It was also cut en princesse, and the skirt was trimmed with four or five stitched folds of satin of graduated. A very deep yoke of numerous ruffies of mar TOW Valenciennes edging surrounded by a fold of the satin. Below the yoke the front of the bodice in three large ducks in square Eton effect. The short sleeves of this gown were open down the outside of the arm, crossed with marrow straps of satin through which the fluffy lace sleeve peeked, and below which it also puffed out in a f1aring It. tie frill to the elbow. IA very tasteful and well-built costume was this.
 Some of the skirts are shired at the top, but the Paris style of shirring all round is not likely to be strong fa- vorite in this country. One still sees the princess skirt, but it has been so much copied and in such villainous colors and materials, badly imagined and worse executed, that it is probable that this vulgarizaton of one of the most difficult and yet, when success fully carried out, beautiful skirts will soon cause it to be relegated to the background and something less done to death will take its place.
 Beautiful box dresses in white and colored Swiss muslins are shown, with pictures of the fashion in which they can be made up to utilize the designs. One striking robe had a skirt and bodice of white dotted muslin. with embroidered sheafs of wheat-much onalized-bordering the deep hem of pale pink muslin A border of pink was also supplied for the waist and sleeves. There are also pretty pat terms in blue and maize color. and as there is decided whisper of return to light oolors instead of the hitherto ubiquitous white, some of these will doubtless be worn by smart women later in the season.
 The patterned lace dresses are pret- tier than ever, too A lace dress is ex- ceptionally useful, but it above all others should be sent to first-cass dressmaker, as there is little that is smart about the semi-ready robes that one buys in the shops, and a well-ftted lining and skillfully hung skirt are es- sential
 And speaking of evening dresses, one cannot tell all the charm and daintiness of the crepe de chine, silk and chiffon ore-piece dresses that are now on view in certain shops. They are most ela- borately trimmed, tucked, inserted, and sbirred, but without a trace of over NAAl4iiAlAtAS WI LIlS IluhIiSllGsSS tue IO lOD- often broken lines. In cut they are simple in the extreme-all one piece, usually with a round yoke and deep tucked skirt. They are variously trimmed with Irish, guipure. Valen- ciennes, and German Valencinnes lace ribbon, net and innumerable tucks, shirrlngs and and narrow rIching. To be appreciated, they must be seen, and when one considers the work upon them the price asked for them is not high. A pretty China silk with inser- tions of Germen Valenciennes, was priced as low as $29 but the more at tractive ones ran to rather more than twice as much.
 It is to be regretted that in New York and this whole country the be- coming fashion of full evening-dress is growing less and less countenanced by the leaders of society, except in private entertainments. In no other dress ever invented does a woman look so we'll unless she is a veritable fright. Lon don still preserves the pretty old cus- tom. but Paris is falling behind-or is 1t going ahead ?--so New York is only following the custom of the French capital in this.
 An odd little shoulder cape seems to- point out a new idea in an autumn costume. Of the same shade as the dress, which was of a silky old rose henrietta cloth, the rounded cape of taffeta fell apparently from the lace yoke, small and round of the bodice. It 1,