Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-10
STYLES IN MEMS WEAR
STRAIGHT BACK TO SUPERSEDE
THE sEMI-MILITARY.


From the Haberdasher.
Fashion, the word, is capable of dual
| Interpretation. Rather. let me say, to the
| keen student as against the casual OBJ
| server, fashion possesses, and may be
! judged from, a twofold standard. Note the
conception which influences and sways the
multitude. For brief periods, and even oc-
casionally through an entire season. it
takes positive form. Broad adherence to
| it's ordinances is accepted by the crowd as
conforming to all essential requirements
1t is mode never noticeably exacting, yet
sufficiently well defined to supply for
mula by which men who move in the most
numerous strata of society may be guided
in their ways To all such fashion con-
sists in a certain apparent movement whose
sole pronounced characteristic is swerv-
ing in this direction or that, regardless of
the absurd extremes to which 1t frequently
leads. The popular conception of fash
ion is not to be decried so long it's prop
er status in the existing order of things is
appreciated, nor can it be effaced. Upon
analysis it is revealed as bald imitation
betimes a pitiful specimen at that-of the
supreme standard whose distinguishing
mark is exclusiveness. The line is sharply
drawn between the two, even though the
generality of ScribeS are quite blind to its
presence. To this differentiation is attrib-
utable the conflict of opinion which SEEM
ingly-though not in reality-exists in re-
gard to the leaning of the mode. 1t Is well
to bear the fact in mind, and not be misled
by the assertions of those who would pre-
tend that the smattering of secondary
knowledge they impart provides the key to
unfasten the gateway to the realm of dress
distinction. The custom maker of class is
aware OF the avidfty with which his ideas
are appropriated, but he realizes also that
his emulator is In no sense a rival. Like
wise the popular" fashion is today, and
will continue to be, merely an adaptation.
after the lapse of time, of those deviations,
whether slight radical, which have
gained the appreciation of men discerning
in matters sartorial, and. their day being
the new. Thus. while 1t may be truly said
that fashion, in the generic sense may
have a two-fold Interpretation, the fact re-
mains beyond cavii that the mode which
has its origin in considerations of excIu-
siveness. utility and a cultivated esthetic
sense. stands pre-emnent as counsellor of
the latter-day gentleman.
Autumn Clothes.
A. word or two anent clothes for autumn
The military model of Jacket and coat ran
it's course, reaching the absurd state in
the realm of the ready made, and was sue
ceeded by the semi military cut. which now
In turn is to undergo at least partial
eclipse. 1 do not mean that its kneH has
sounded and that we shall have no re-
minders of its present vogue In garments
for the new season, for change in fashion
comes only by gradual process. My point
is that fall Jackets viii conform less to the
outlines of the figure. The curve In the
side seams will scarcely be apparent. Yet
sufficient amplitude win remain to permit
of freedom Of movement. without the re-
tention of the pronounced outward flare
Equally notable will be the high buttoned
effect of both jacket and waistcoat, an
English idea already adopted to some ex-
tent by the custom makers OF class. AS to
lesser details. the jacket will be single
breasted, closing with three or two but
tons. with rounded bottom edge and hav-
ing necessarily the narrow lapel. Shout
ders will be of natural width and the gar
ment will be ventless. measuring thirty-one
inches for the man of average height No
change deserving of special comment will
affect the cut of trousers. Gray pfaids Of
the undemonstrative sort will continue In
favor. shade or two lighter than at pres
.ent. Waistcoats win be made without the
collar. closing with five buttons. and with
less angular lower points, in order to con-
form to the Jacket effect
In oveFcoRts foresee no marked depart
ures, with the single exception Of q more
generous flare to the skirt and the aban-
dOnment of the pressed side seam Be
cause OF the descent OF the extenuated
model to the ready made. the length
coat will be preferred. having collar to