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Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1906-12-20
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 Chapter I'm an iHpeEetrabt London fog John Clileoto, q proai- nent and rapidly rising member Of the opposition in parliament, unoX- pectedly encounters John Lodcr, a poor writer, who is his exact dou- ble. At the moment the aggression of Russia in Persia is the all-en- crossing topic. 1I-Russia is re- ported to be supporting the rebels in their fight against the authority of the shah of Persia, thus distinct iy menacing England's influence in the east. III-Chileote, who is a slave to morphia, hears of novel in which two men exchanged iden- tities. " and V-Chilcote visits Loder in the latter's humble quar- ters and proposes that Loder shall tmpersonate him when Chi1cote is overcome by the craving for nor p11fa and wishes to get out of the world for the time being. VI--Lod CT accepts. VIT-~Loder is compell- ed to wear rings on one of his fin gers in order to conceal scar made in Italy by apet dog belonging to an Englishwoman whom he had net here and had become very friendly with. VIlI-~Loder, repre- senting Chilcote, goes to the lat ter's home. Chilcote's wife does not detect the deception Loder is greatly impressed by Mrs. Chilcote's beauty and manner. IX-Loder lunches with Fraide, the great lead CT of the opposition in parliament He seems to win the astute states nan completely Fraide, by the way, is the godfather of Mrs. Chill cote. X-Loder has tea with Mrs Chilcote. He receives telegram from Chilcote summoning him to return so that they may assume their proper stations in life. XI and XII-Chilcote's craving soon evercomes him, and once more Loder becomes Chilcote. XIII and x1V-Loder attends a "swelI' re- ception. XV and XVI-At the recep- tion Lady Astrupp is presiding at the fortune telling booth. Loder visits it, and she requires him to re- move his rings. She is startled up- on seeing the scar on his hand XVII, XVIII and XIX-Loder and Mrs. Chilcote have an interview of 9 very delicate nature. A great political crisis is reached in parila- Ment, and Loder makes a strong speech NX-Again Loder zoe. back to his old life Chilcote goes driving with Lady Astrupp and makes an appointment to dine with her few moments later. She seems suspicious XXI-Loder. again as Chilcote, asks Mrs Chilcote 70 aid him in his political career. XXIl
 -Loder keeps the appointment made some days before Ev Ct.ll ec.e, 10 dine with Lady Astrupp. Lady Astrupp accuses Loder of being the man who was bitten on tic finger in Italy by her pet dog ife will neither deny nor admit tta %cc..sa- ton.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1906-12-20


    
 
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 I.9.@1. -ss.a,.] h"#.#t Then lE uu.e= r.m ela caml.. I ier ta4ns "provc -ae to= h. vaoa = sine ~a5a Wfh fresh toa9h of excitaa.ea Fake fl NaH rttl@> and let me g.. yvEr iaut.'
 With d deliberate gesture lotier pm. his hand behind his tfack. T GpYrI gratify childish curiosity he said, with another smile.
 Again a flash of temper crossed her eyes Are you sure" she said that it $ quite wise 10 talk like that:
 Lodcr laughed again. lis that q threat:'
 Perhaps.
 'Then it's an empty one.'
 Why"
 Before replying he waited 4 moment. looking down at her
 Il conclude" lie began quietly, "that t probable story--to ask people to believe that John Chilcote, whom they see be- fore them, is not John Chilcote, but somebody else. Now. you'n find that q harder task than you imagine. This is a skeptical world. and people arc ab- surtlly fond of their own eyesight. We are all journalists nowadays-we all want facts. The first thing you will be asked for is your proof And what does your proof consist of? The circum- stance that John Chilcote, who has al ways dcspised iewelry, has lately taken to wearing riugs. Your own testimony, unattended by any witnesses, that with those rings off his finger bears scar belonging to another man. No; on close examination l scarcely imagine that vour case would hold.' He stop ped. fired by his own logic. The future might be Chilcotc'S. but the present was his, and this present. with it's i'm measurable possibilities, had been res, cucd from catastrophe. No, he said again. When you get yolir proof per haps we'll have another talk, but ii. then
 "Tll thon:" She looked up quickly, but almost at once her question died away.
 The door had opened. and the servant who had admitted I.oler stood in the opening.
 Dinner is served,' he announced in his defeTcntial voice.
Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1906-12-20
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Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1906-12-20

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Pine Bluff daily graphic., 1906-12-20

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New-York tribune., 1906-04-01

three intervals OF season two each, the
Chesterfield Overcoat has been the leading style
for general wear. and this spring finds it more
firmly intrenched in favor than ever. The early
spring models show inclination TO return 10
the style OF a half century ago. when the fathers
Of the present generation were beaus In tne
close ft at the waist and the amplitude OF the
skirt. The roll OF this Chesterfield Will be lohg
and wide, with either a peaked or down slahteu
lapel. The collar will be self covered. ana tns
roll will be silk faced A proper length VIII Do
eight inches more than half the wearers helgnI
The covert coat IN these days is hardly us
tinguishabIe by the that formerly sIood
for such a distinctive garment More tilaH ever
this season the covert coat has become an azure
waited Chesterfield. It's roll, waist shape anu
finish will be like those Of the Chesterheld On!y
in It's length viii It differ materially from Us
more popular brother. IL Will be from 90 10 81
inches long. -
The Newmarket and paletot Will divide the
honors for dress occasions Both VIII be the
same In the back as the dress frock coat, either
without a centre seam or with the skirt opening
continuous with the centre seam The New
market will have peaked lapels broad at the top
and chest and tapering to a finished width OF
tu5o inches at the bottom. The front win close
with two buttons from five 70 six inches apart,
there being only buttonhole in each lapel
above the closing. The roll very long one,
Will be self faced. The collar may be Of self
New-York tribune., 1906-04-01

lot. neat worsted or some other dressy fabric
and cut conservative lines.
The staple for business and lounge wear the
sack suit. will have a large range OF styles. and
in these garments more than any Of the others
will each tailor In a way have style Of his
own. The average length Of the single breasted
sack for the man Of average height will be
from 30 to 80 inches The double breasted coat
Will be a bit longer. The side fulness at the
bottom in both styles will be marked. The
double breasted sack will, for the most part.
close with three buttons. the lapels will be wide
and considerably peaked. and the collar Will
be one-half as wide the lapels.
The three button cUtaway will be the leading
style in the single breasted sack. The fronts will
be cut away nearly half way 20 the centre OF
the leg, and Will turn into the bottom with a
round ranging from blunted point almost to a
sweep. The lapels will be down slanted. as a
rule, and oftentlmes win be either squared or
slightly peaked.
The four button cutaway-Iaore becoming TO
tall men-wiH be finished like The three button.
The waistcoat for any sack suit must be with
out a collar. II may be single or double breast
or Of fancy fabrics. The trousers for sack suits
will be a bit wider than those for half dress.
The blouse coat viii be worn for business as
we'll as lounge wear 10 greater extent than
ever this season. One style viii have yOkes
shaped on each side at the bottom, TO lie
over and button 90 perpendicular plaits two in
front and two in back, under which the belt
passes.
New-York tribune., 1906-04-01

below which it Will be underplaited and through
which viii be the opening to the hip pocket
that will extend to the level of the back seam,
patched on the inside. The length will be from
forty-eight to fifty inches for a man Of average
height.
The Oversack Will be long and nearly
straight hanging box, with a long centre rent
The roll Will be a medium long and heavy
peaked lapel. with collar tab, patched on, and
tapped hip pockets and sleeves with weather
straps.
EVENING DRESS.
Evening dress, to ali intents and purposes, is
as it last fall In coats. the peaked lapel
style will be the best form. The one piece In
front will remain in favor. While a double
breasted waistcoat will not violate the canons OF
good taste. the single breasted style will con-
tinue as Of late. TO be worn almost by every one.
In trousers there will be a slight tendency to-
ward narrower legs.
For negiigee dress dinner coat, the peaked
lapel all silk roll Tuxedo Will be the prevailing
fashion. The shawl roll will be worn trihe
more than ii was last season. however. The
waistcoat may be made from the silk used for
facing the coat, or from the material of the coat
iself and will be Of the same style as the full
dress waistcoat- The trousers win be like the
full dress trousers. that they VIII frequently
be more elaborately braided
The coat for formal day dress against
New-York tribune., 1906-04-01

grin o' ~ IN the spring Of 1905, still retains it's
:" uhe top round but blue will ebs-a IN
go -. pronounced popularity this season
- "-4' II a measure regain the Ia1IreIs II lost
60 ;S, SgSr. Those who affect the Iondon fash
w. 49, se1ect browns and greens in soft tones
,,,ill - 80 ooth IN dressy and negligee Ueaves
far o me tIIe favored suitings Of the season so
ba,,a = ,f aleflaIs go Cheviots, however will
5IeS e sue Tor business wear travelling ont
I'LL, NJ anu iounging and blue serges in plain
+ha ~ -t GU pam or fancy weaves viii be among
- -i-uDH NoIn Fabrics. Fancy suitings will he
ii5 iIS Up principally in plain mixtures with en-
s e---IIs Ees 10 relieve the monotone Stripes
y" anu proad, viii not be amiss and heavy
p-aIos Whlle they Will be less in evidence than
LeIeIoIore' VIII still find favor with MANY well
uLSsseo men small checks the taflors expecr
VII sLo" IN IaVor. Flannels are going 10 he
worn Ior business in the heart Of mtdsumrner
more man ever The days when they were re-
stTlcted 10 the tennis court are over
fancy WalStcoats are still on the TOD wave Of
popularity and this seasons patterns and color
ngs VIII present an even greater variety than
last season.
The fabric field for overcoats will be greatly
enlarged. Not only the staple overcoating fab
rlcs VIII be used, but almost every material used
for suits viii be drawn on. Gray worsteds in
plain, twils and herringbones small fancy
weaves wOrsted cheviOts and cheviots will be
among the most widely worn overcoating fab
rics.
STYLES IN OvERCOATS
For more than fifty years. save for two or
New-York tribune., 1906-04-01

Cray which forged to the front as the lead
New-York tribune., 1906-04-01
THE CLOTHES STANDARD.
Ready-to-WeGr Garments Equal td
the Merchant TmIOr's. ,

In every line OF human effort there Is a standard.
To attain this standard to surpass IS the chia9
aim OF the various activities OF the social ana tn
dustr1al world In the making OF clothes the
standard has been and Is the work of the merchants
tailor. The ready-to-wear clothes for a time had
standard Of their own. and did not essay 70 reacn
the excellence achieved BY the merchant tailor
Fifty years ago. however. the house OF Brokavs
raised its ready-to-wear clothes 10 the standard
OF the merchant tailor. and since then has kepz
them there always bressting the tape with tha
merchant tailor.
The reason why the merchant taihor's work ID
set as a standard Is because he makes gar
nent az time for one person There ara thoss
who VIII maintain that the ready-to-wear house, In
saying that It's garments equal those OF the hrS7
class taiOrs. is belittiing its product and adj
vertisirg the merchant tailOrs. Such persons
evade what they know to be the truth, that tbs
merchant taiOr's work always has been. IS and
always Will be the standard The house OF Brokaw
does not our clothes are better than the mer@
chant tailor s. 1t does say 70 its customers
We pay our styles designer much thd
highest class merchant tailors pay theirs. There
is a fundamental basis OF style which all clothes>
makers observe. 1t is in the little ornAEnentationss
New-York tribune., 1906-04-01

The long. close fitting. side creased. side vent
ed. hared bottom sack coat, with single
breasted waistcOat pear shaped breeches ana
leggins. is the proper garb for horseback riding
In the morning. In the afternoon the cUtawsy
frock, with breecheS and boots. is the right garn
FANCY wAISTCOATINGS.
Never before has there been season when
the dilettante in fancy waistcoats could gladden.
his eyes and heart such a beauteous variety
OF patterns For morning and afternoon wear
washable uerceriZed fabrics and dannels, sim
liar 10 the flannel used fifteen years ago for
tennis trousers in plain effects, stripes and
plaids will meet the principal demand Many
Waistcoats will be fiat braided CSshmeres IN
soft cOlors. in which gray will pFedoninate, viii
meet with much favor. For evening wear SILK
will be the thing IN waistcOats- Grays In SOFT
colors striped and dotted effects will be fash
iOnabe, while whites. faint yellow and figured
patterns in delicate blue. green. pink and hello
trope are being chosen by those seeking aftsr
novelties.
Afohair suits VIII be popular in midsummer
for those who put comfort first while they are
forced TO forego the seashore and mountains.
The suits viii be made in two piece skeleton
suits quarter lined The fabric Is so light that
when II is held up the light can be seen through
It. but nevertheless the material hangs we'll and
As less cIinging than alpaca a hot day. Mo
hair tai0rs win point out, needs scarcely any
pressing. does not collect dirt and keeps its
lustre-
New-York tribune., 1906-04-01

the adornmsnts OF the main structure, as n wxra
the designer and iInpart those characteristics q
the clothes IhIs we nav nave m ne za< SS5lShS ~ t3 -
the merchant tailor Where the merchant ta4lo4
Whole TH OUTPUT Of a mil NsturslIy that msans
big saving in the cost OF material We do al
5aoP dSea oes 9H %0Th h on % SgF & hs cut Of @
rnents and the patterns IN which they are made ~
IN keeping with mans age ana form Ihe mer~
chant tailor can DO no more We do not put pae-
8a Fem ~ sasn sSF rs2an y2Hh on before Il s osS QUE = o
store Is fitted 10 the wearer. Just as II Is IN ina
Very we'll. saws the eriria 'you have only suo-
ceeded IN confirming me IN the belief mat t4s osss
you can do is what the merchant tailor nave
ask 6 aaagsa as asH'9 asH .6 OF s63ss
suits 70 the merchant tailor,s one we sell ssss ss
what you have been getting from your tailor. Can
you beat that? we equal the standard az half ths
standards price. One way your money draws IN
you want Individuality. with conformity to what
are admittedly the best STYLES and the best work
give you. There is fact thar speaks for Itself
Arm wear Brokaw clothes. The majority OF ths
members OF other Teady-to-~eaT clothing HrTnS 90
they admit that they do not reach the standard n
The spring garments OF the house OF Brokaw
show. they have season after season indivtdu-
atty that attracts instant attention This point
IS marked in the moderate shoulders lapeIs and
general shaping or coats as well as in the skin
that. while both stand ont by themselves. they
merge into a harmonious whole. Thus the younger
set. seeking novelty, and the older men, desiring
sartOrial conservatism, are able 20 crafty their
wishes. The newest BrOkaw garment is a medium
fitting sack the coat showing the outline OF the
figure enough TO give grace and distinction. ana
evadug the corsetlke extreme. which eXcites Onlv
ridicule. The newest BrOkaW overcoat Is the or
monde, a seu-htting sack OF graceful lines Wfthai
II Is most practical garment, suite1 20 business
or day dress wear. IL has very deep centre vent
and two side peats. and. while shapeiy. IS without
a too pronounced fare.
In al other garments or recognized style for
business. day dress seni-dress and evening dress
the BrOkaW clothes show the individuality OF the
designer and the acme OF excellence IN stvla and
sartOrial beauty
FOr half century the house OF ErOkaW has ulada
liveries for indoor and outdoor servants and the
hallmark OF the Br0kaw handiW0rk Is stamped az
indelibly the mans clothes it is on the mas
ter's.
The house has ready for its patrons a superbly
illustrated brochure, containing advice which II
followed. viii transform a mule driver into a
fashion plate The book Is Handsomely got uu
geographically. II also has for its customers a
brochure on hveries and uniforms in which as IN
the other. the drawings Of costumes are from Ife
No store IN New York City Is more easily reached
than Brokaw's Subway, elevated and sllrface oars
drop one at the door AZ Astor Place
New-York tribune., 1906-04-01
SPRING STYLES IN MEMS FASH50YS
THEY ARE
MANY BUT DIVERSIFIED ,SFFK1Nn
BEAUTY AND NOVFTTY

Man laughs at woman as she stands ankle
deep II March snow surveying with giistening
eve ire summer muslin displayed in the de-
psrtment store window, but down in his heart
bs acknowledges that he too. with spring days
3, SIGHT turns his thoughts 10 sartorisl har-
Ringers and he SCOTS only from habit and Gus
ro-a. The well dressed man prinks even as
soes the well dressed woman. She only prinks
mora because she has more 10 prink with. In
these days one finds the man lingering the fab
vi,s o.. the tsAors tables or perusing the style
hook Of the ready-to-wear house, for in clothes
as sn business the prudent and successful man
looks ahead and takes sartorial time by the
collar.
s-v1es this season are 70 be many yet diver
SIZED. The only taste that viii not be con-
eidersd viii be bad taste. Overcoats, evening
dress. day dress half dress, business wear.
lounge OF sporting habilinents al viii show
varying points OF style 70 met the varied
wishes o. those who wear them. Beauty and
novelty VIII be the Distinguishing features in all
lines There viii be three marked changes in
coats 1or the spring and summer OF 1906 The
chief Of these changes viii be shown in the
collar, which VIII be shorter ana broader op-
posits the end Of the crease. The 1906 shoulder
VIII not only be slightly narrower. but viii fol-
New-York tribune., 1906-04-01

which no carping finger OF criticism be
pointed is the double breasted frock This coat
will be lighter In effect than last fall. The
waist length will be inch and three-quarters
more than One-quarter the wearer's height, and
the full length from six to seven inches more
than one-half his height. The lapels will show
considerable peak and the width will be liberal
except al the bottom, where il will be two
inches or a little less. The fronts will close
moderately low, with two or three buttons. The
roll will be silk faced to the buttonholes. Dress
worsteds. cheviOts and vicunas will be the
proper materials.
The waistcoat may be single or double breast
ed as desire may dictate and with or without a
collar. The single breasted. no collar style Will
be worn the most, however The single breast
ed waistcoat should average twenty-six inches
In length. close with five buttons. and should
have moderately long cutaway points. The
double breasted style will have q pointed bot
tom ongrowing lapes If there is no collar
If there is a collar the lapels will be generally
sewed on and the roll will be Of the one piece,
peaked lapel style.
The trousers following the general pattern of
all the seasons, will not be distinctly creased
will suggest the outward curves Of the legs
and Will be moderately close at the hips. From
is to 1872 at the knee and from Is to 1914 at
New-York tribune., 1906-04-01

Nv more closely than heretofore the curves OF
Ele human shoulder. Some tailors are putting
springs n shoulders instead OF padding. The
spring serves the same purpose as the padding
but is not 50 uncomfortable IN warm weather
and though Il gives 10 pressure II keeps its
shape. Following the shoulder conformation
II VIII have the effect OF giving the sleeves
more decided curve al the inside elbow than has
been apparent for many years.
TIE side seams Of the double breasted frock
coat VIII be much less curved than last season
and tie peak Of the lapels will be more pro-
Louucec- The skirts VIII have q decidedly lib
era- bell. The curaWay frock will likewise have
stralgnter Size seams and the skirts will slope
away more than heretofore. The skirts viii
round into the bottom more strihngly and in
many patterns viii close from one 10 two inches
lower.
Sack coats Of al kinds viii be markedly
Shorter and VIII be fuller az the bottom. They
VIII SET closer 10 the waist also. Waistcoats
Will open lower and the long cutaway points Of
the preceding year VIII be chopped off a bit
The HaistcOat. except ia departures from what
is l-e approved fashion, will not show above
The coat opening more shapely leg is 10 be
given 10 trousers. and creases VIII not be de-
fined sharply.
THE LEADING FABRICS.
Cray. which forged TO the front as the lead
New-York tribune., 1906-04-01

the bottom will be the average widths OF trou-
sers The side seams will be cord wited. While
in material the tendency TO fancy wOrsteds pre-
dominates. cheviots are permissible. both IN
modest stripes
Tbe cutawav frock made from the same ma
teriaIs as the double breasted frock is the
leading half dress garment The cutaway fToek
for the coming season is fashioned In the same
waist length as the double breasted frock- II
will be from three 10 four inches longer than
one-half the wearer's height. There will be
two distinct styles tn this garment. the more
novel having peaked lapels fiat braided edges
and imitation cuffs The other style which,
being more conservative, will meet with more
general favor will have the usual down slanted
Ia pei tops stitched edges and vented cuffs The
wastcoat and trousers will be the same as for
daU
New-York tribune., 1906-04-01
BUSINESS AND LoUNG1NG.

The business cutaway frock, which so often
masquerades under the guise of its day semi
dress brother, the cutaway frOck is a little
longer in the waist than its half-brother. the
cutaway frOck, but the full length will be the
same The skirts will be less cut away and
the edge and seam stitching wider. So long as
the cutaway frock has hip pocket flaps. it can
never pass muster for semi-dress. even though
II be made Of the materials allotted to the latter
garb. Nevertheless, many well dressed men
are making the business cutaway serve the pur~
pose Of the semi-dress cutaway by having the
coat and trousers made from diagonal chew
New-York tribune., 1906-04-01

material or of velvet and the hip pocket flaps
may fall either from the waist seam or be set
below II diagonally or straight across, as the
fancy of the wearer may dictate
The paletot will be of practically the same cut
Both Newmarket and paletot win range from
nineteen and one-fourth inches in waist length
and from forty-six to fifty inches In full length
for a man of average height. The material may
be any that is proper 20 wear with day dress.
TRAVELLING OVERCOATS.
The tourists ulster and the tourists oversack
are prominent among the overcoats suited for
travelling abroad at home. The ulster will
be fly front, three seam oversack, about one
third shaped to the waist where it will be
strapped from side seam to side seam, and below
which the seams Will be underplaited. The side
seams will extend to the shoulder seams, reach
ing them about two inches from the armhole,
where they will be met with a full front seam