The San Francisco call., 1906-07-29
DARLS TASTIION9
SHOW HINTS OF
AUTUMN >SNXS
ii SUMNER FWCkS
~. NO. ..-.... IT, @

va her loyal followers this sea-
~ son such attention to de-
tail that the very simplest
gown must be studied over and most
carefully planned. in order that there
shall not be even the merest trine of
trimming or color that is not ia ac-
cord. If the empire or princess style
Is chosen, then-5lIhough, OF course,
there may be considerable mod flying
OF the model-it must not be in any
manner changed. There may be CON
trasts OF color. l. SO. they must be
most carefully studied. so that there
may be tie desired contrast but no
clashngi and II the one tone color
scheme is chosen. then it. too. must be
most Systematically carried out through
countless 2GGt-ols Of shading.
Fortunately. Jacre are 50 many dis
tinctly no 81 fashions this yea that.
after a few trails ~ scoring the de-
sired harm 5a-oCs effect Il IS possible TO
gain the mastery and the eye soon l3-
comes trained in tne selection OF .lla-
terials STYLES ard colors that are all in
keeping. in fact. tae maj jor'ty OF women
are faT better dressed tlan they have
been for many years. showing that the
study of dress is by no means an ig
noble pursuit.
The question Of belts. girdles and
sashes is aomcntOus one and. for
tUn2tely. many women who have q
soOd eye for color and who understand
the art OF being we'll gowned do not
always understand their own figures in
so Tar as choosing what is becoming in
the way OF belt, sash or girdle. ana
otten the effect OF 2 charmingly at
tractive gown is completely spoiled by
this fault Surely there never was q
time when corset makers showed the
Is
pecnunan efforts as are made. and gen
orally crowned with success, to do
away with too much aVoirduppis. or TO
add flesh when nature has denied IL. 1t
Is nothing short OF marvellous to notice
how absolutely different in appearance
TWO women viii look whose weight is
precisely the same. One with ill-ft-
ting corset or gown badly made-al-
though in itself handsome-and a belt
that is either too wide or too narrow
VIII look years older and pounds heav-
ler than woman of exactly the same
weight and age. simply because the lat
ter has q good fitting corset. her gown
nts her and her belt is so adjusted TO
define the good lines Of her figure or
10 conceal the bad ones
TIL NEIDE. CfRDLE.
Is the princess gown becoming TO
every one2 is a question. An artist OF
d dressmaker can work wonders, every
one knows. but with the waist and
skirt the belt can be depended upon TO
give more sharply defined line that
IS more generally becoming At the
moment princess gowns are unques-
tionabiY extremely smart, but there are
many more Z them now with belts and
girdles theE were worn last season.
and there we constantly appearing new
design sJi OF which are novel and very
smart also
Whether the wide bodices and S8rdles
are generally becoming is another much
discussed question To slender figures
they would seem always 10 be. at least
SO thinks the stout woman. but care
has 10 be taken that the bodice is not
too high and TOO even all around, for
then all trace of figure is lost. as such
belt is apt 10 be rather shapeless. If
a stout woman essays such a belt, it
can be made becoming II the lines are
well arranged. so that the belt is much
higher and wider at the back than in
front and this without its being on the
same old pattern that so sharply de-
fined the straight front last season.
Taffeta silk or satin on the bias makes
the most becoming belts, and IL can be
drawn more tightly around the waist
thus giving a smaller waist line 1t is
becoming more fashionable all the
time-the round waist line. rather than
pointed-so tits said. and yet here again
Individual taste may be exercised, for