The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-03-24

uons leading restaurants, is widely practiced, not only in better class res-. taurants, but also on some of the great liners.
 Another popular trick as practiced by the restaurateur is to serve as veal beef done up overnight in salted bandages, while skilful chef has very little diff f1culty in palming off whiting for sole on epicures who pride themselves on the soundness of their judgment of cooking.
 A few weeks ago a dinner for seven ty-f1ve people was ordered at a we'll known fashionable restaurant. A large consignment of salmon had been previ- ously ordered, but to the consternation of the chef the dinner hour slowly ap- preached and still no salmon arrived. In despair the chef-a Frenchman-- decided to take the bull by the horns" and procure another fish to do duty for the coveted salmon. Accordingly, he set to work to turn cod outlets into sal- mon outlets, and this rapid transforma- tion was soon effected by an addition OI NG5GldDlS JuASE' 4nC Wd1lGISt WAO naturally were aware of this wholesale l deception, were given express orders to report any complaints to the chef at once. However, to the intense delight of the chef, all passed off well, and on hearing that his subterfuge had not been detected he gleefully exclaimed: 'Ah, a cod and French cook can work miracles"
 1 Green peas at certain seasons of the year are naturally a luxury quite be- yond the reach of the man of average means, while even caterers for>fashion- able hotels themselves frequently have the greatest difficulty in getting suffi- ciently large quantity to meet the de- mand. However, to fake peas does not offer any great difficulty in times of stress, and by adding vegetable ooloring matter yellow peas are quite commonly | served up as green peas along with the duck and flavorless new potato, which more often than not comes from abroad.
 Roast veal served with thick white sauce makes, says well-known chef most satisfactory substitute for the breast of chicken, and therefore it does not come altogether as a surprise to learn that the breast of one chicken" has been known to satisfy twelve hun gry diners.
 "The staff take good care of the breast of chicken" was the com- ment of waiter who was being for the ] first time initiated into the mystery of how to feed dozen people off one chicken.
 Perhaps the cleverest deception prac- ticed by eminent chefs is the art of manufacturing the lobster patty, so dear to the heart of the epicure This appetizing dainty would at first sight seem to defy even the most ingenious cookery fakir. However, here again the artful chef has overcome apparent ly insuperable difficulties, and many toothsome looking lobster patties are thus not always quite what they are said to be.
 The deception is worked In this way: A common crustacean is boiled and the meat carefully chopped off and put into mortar, while afterward part of the shell is added. The mixture is then vigorously pounded as fine as possible, and on the addition of flavoring it would tax the powers of the most crit teal connoisseur to detect any differ enoe between this gastronomic mixture and the genuine lobster patty.
 "The various deceptions have told you of," remarked a famous chef to the writer, "are naturally not practiced every day, but are only utilized in times of emergency and those emergency moments arrive more frequently than the trustful customer would like did he but know"