Evening star., 1906-03-25

low the point of the silver girdle The
overdress Is cut or built tc open u2 thet
way and is bordered b. 4 raffie of the net
embroidered in outline with small leaves
This fiounce goes lii The way around tie
overdress. and being cut to form n circular
section of net has sufficient fuiiness al It's
lower edge TO be graceful and not cum5er-
. some. In the back the girtte has a chou
of the silver gauze and tws shor. ro nted
ends. one twelve md the oshe@ ten inches
long; the girdle clos.s under this. but the
bodice closes in he FROM surp;ic", the
embroidered net giving the surrlice effect,
the plating of course, Is invisi5y joined
straight down the nlaits. To wear with
this there is necklace of cut Jet balls ami
coiffure combs to match,
Mrs James Speyer was at an afternoon
function in one of the new triple-founce
skirt effects in a rich shade of sapphire blue
chiffon tafreta, broeaded in border effects
in small blue velvet roses and foliage. with
lovers knots scattered here and there
among the roses. The costume was topped
by one of the French coats, with skirts in
the back only and these really draped sash
ends.
rhe coat had surpice effect in the back
and wide revers in the front, and all the
revers and hounces Were bordered at their
outer edges with plain blue velvet probably
ribbon set in under the brocaded roses,
forming the edges of the chiffon silk.
The skirt had three deep box-piaitcd
founces, the top of the skirt being close
fitting through shirrfn2; the ffounces over
tapping each other the lowest of course
being the widest. The tops of these fiounces
were of plain chiffon silk. and the lower
two-thirds were heavily brocaded with the
tiny blue roses and knots and under che
lower edge of each was laid plain blue vel
vet some three inches wide.
The coat had lace stock edged with
fold of blue velvet and the pattern of the
outlined dPltcatelV With gold
thread and embroidered in tiny, shaded for
get -me-nots. The coat fronts had wide.
pointed revers, the tops of which extended
almost to the sleeves. There was lace
jabot down the center front of the lace
waistcoat or vest. with forget-me-nots en-
broidered at the sides. From little below
the bust line to the waist in the center there
was a fiat section of the lace velvet
band went straight across the top OF this
and was caught with rhinestone cabaehons.
The sides of the coat extended over at the
Sides of course. and at the waist line blue
velvet ribbon formed girdle finish to TIE
waistcoat ending at each side or the exact
center line in points under cabochons
The back showed a small V at the top.
the folds of brocaded silk crossing In sur
plice style and forming large revers edged
at the outside with plain velvet, like those
of the front. few inches above the
straight girdle of velvet a band of blue
velvet ribbon was fastened on each side.
the ends fastened under the revers being
curved so that the ribbon slanted down,
passed under the arms, and came around
to the fronts ending each side little
above the girdle under cabochons. The
straight band girdle went straight across
the back with cabochons, or buckle, In the
center back.
THE skirt back was formed of two ends
of silk. perhaps sixteen inches long, having
plain silk centers, deep borders of brocade
roses these ends being finished at their
inner edges and bottoms only with an un-
DERIVING border of blue velvet. These two
ends were draped in plaits at the top,
parted a bit in the center, and were grace
full in effect. The sleeves ended just below
the elbows, and terminated in lace cults
edged with plain blue velvet and embfold-
cred at the lower edges with forget-me-
nots The tops of the sleeves were draped,
the upper part of each being made up or
two draped points, having plain centers,
edged with blue velvet. These were draped
to show between them at the outside and
center of the arms upward turning, v
shaped sections of the silk, ana below
these We're lace frills and bands OF Diue vel
vet and then the 1ace cuffs already men
toned.
The hat topping this costume was large
brown velvet chapeau, with a straight
brim and moderately high, round crown.
A fold of blue silk went around the crown,
and two pale-blue ostrich tips were at the
left. falling over the side and back. and the
bandeau and suggestion of cachepelgne
were of pale-brown tulle
An evening coat Mrs. Speyer wore to the
opera on several occasions was coral red
velvet lined with plated white chiffon over
plain satin, and trimmed with Venetian
point lace scarfs and sable.
The side fronts were faced with rich,
yelloWish Venetian lace, which showed at
| the neck, and the deep Capuchin hood was
| lined with the lace. bordered with sable,
| and in the back, near the top of the hood,
were too small fiat black velvet bows, each
taiI tn rNIoc faxr hrtp
| liants.
The coat was. of course, one of the huge,
| full affairs, with enormous sleeves me
| sleeves being laid in crosswise in plaits at
| the inside of the. arms above the wrists TO
| give the necessary fullness and pouching to
| the outside. These were finished with sable
| bands and deep 1ounces of Venetian point.
| In addition passementerie in coral red was
| used on the service, around the shoulders
| and fronts of the wrap.
"a
Mime. Rappold, who sang at the afternoon
| concert for the benefit of the Seamen' s
Benefit Society, was in rose pink topped by
a black hat. This hat had the high crown
| and narrow, round brim effect. with black
| ostrich aigrettes rising at the left side. The
ostrich plumes went from the left side
| across the back and dropped at the right
/ The gown was apparently chiffon cloth, a
| bright pink, and was princess In outlines,
|
| shallow of white lace finished with q
| narrow puff of rose color, and then an in
| sertion of white lace between 1t and the
| body of the robe. The robe was shirred
| and plated closely to the figure. The
| sleeves, formed of scant puffs. ended at the
| elbows.
Miss Catherine Leverich, who was large
| ly interested in arranging the concert, SHE
! being the president of one of the auxiiartes
| of the society, wore a coat and skirt Of
| green velvet, trimmed with black silk braid
| and gun-metal buttons. The skirt trailed 9
| little all around and was trimmed witt
/ black silk braid. going around the bottom
| and up the sides and back. and halY
! length, half-ftting, single-breasted coat. A
single line of the braid went up the center
| of the back. Other strips went up anc
! down several seams. There was a row o1
| braid on each side of the front, with row
| on each side of notwithstanding oyais o1
1 the braid, ending In gun-meta1 buttons
| The braid was not straight. but formed OF
| long small ovals. The sleeves We're long
1 trimmed with braid, and her hat WAS
/ rather large one in green, trimmed With
black ostrich plumes.
| Mrs. Charles B. Alexander, one of the pa
| tronesses, was present in black broad
| cloth skirt of walking length and halt
4 Iaroth oaaf WAS trim, med xyirh str afoJ,