Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-13
CrOft'S i Miik Cocoa

The fact that It is now relocated to its
strict sphere. and is never seen IN conjuno-
ton with fTock or morning coat except
where men know no better. Will no doubt
have helped 1t TO live on. All kinds of va
rtetles have been suggested In connection
with II. but the established shape, with
round corners and nearly perpendicular
fronts, holds II place with a fair success.
Shirts are not showing any change: the
small. round cum. with the link holes about
en- inch down. is stil the correct sleeve
finish. and q single stud for a dress rrori
is much more usual than TWO or than three
studs. Colored shirts are worn, but not OF
obligation, with A Jacket. and as fancy
waistcoats GO out. they will be more and
more fashiona BILE, because with a fancy
waistcoat there IL no need OF anything 20
give touchup to the sobriety OF suit.
that a white shirt is quite acceptable. The
double-cufred shirt may be regarded as OBJ
solete: and no man who cares for the rules
OF the mode wears colored shirt with a
full dress mean. Of course. day dress
OUTFIT. He would as soon put on one with
An evening suit. The notion that a colored
shirt must be worn when brown shoes are
worn is N error. as regards this country at
leas ST
Cravats have not moved I'm any respect
since last reported. and INhlnk that with
the fancy waistcoat on the down grade we
We are likely enough to have a revival OF
self-colored knots later on. though Just now
the death of the King OF Denmark has made
Il rather mark OF good form las IL Is Ger
tatnly one of delicate and suggestive good
taste) TO wear black. or black and white
Absence of Gray Frocks.
l never recollect a time when so few gray
frock coats have been seen as there are
now. or course. II has long. IL not always
been recognized that for fun dress-qulte
full dress-a black coat Is essential: but now
there does not seem to be any other kind OF
daytime tailed coat than a black one The
morning coat IS perhaps rather moro IN
vogue than 1t used to be-always black; but
the gray frock coat is not to be seen any
where. A gray frock coat. with trousers
to match and a light fancy waIstcoat
used to be worn month or two ago. and to
look very smart. but IL is for the moment
quite out Of date. The summer may see
change. but my impression is that the coat
with trousers TO match will not revive we
shall have coat and waistcoat matching and
trousers different. Very likely cashmere
stripes will come In again.
Evening Dress.
Evening dress is very much where Il was,
and with very slight variations that IS.
where It has been ever since 1 began to
write on the subject of mems clothes. and
that is more years ago than | am altogether
pleased to remember. If you took a suit of
any time these twelve years, provided that
it had not been made with any OF the within
sizes that faddists and fakirs and people
afraid or being mistaken for the butler are
always trying to introduce. and were Il In
London now Cor at any other part Of the pc
Rod specihedl. you would have created
neither then nor now the slightest remark
One season there will be roll collar to the
coat, covered with silk; another season the
lapels viii be all covered with silk, and al
yet another time there viii be an interval
between the silking and the border; but
none of these Is IN the least important, and
no one troubles greatly to follow any par
ticular vagary. In other words, evening
dress has a strong fundamental unity.
There was never a time when q white waist
coat was essential never had white dress
waistcoat in my life-aud never time when
IL was wrong. There may be braid down
the side OF the trousers, or none. nobody
cares: evening dress Is one and the same
plus ca change, plus c'est la meme chose
AS a matter OF fact. nine men out of ten.
and probably nine hundred and uinety-nine
out of a thousand. do not give any orders
at all about 4 dress suit; they leave IL to
the tailor. This year you do not commonly
see a new dress coat made with a six COL
lar, nor yet with the lapeis entirely silksd
the silk leaves about q half inch OF cloth
showing. and the collar Is OF cloth. The
waistcoat opening Is somewhat higher than
usual, and rather pointed than rounded off
and no one wears chain across the waist
coat. Braid is not much worn on the
trousers. and not ar all on the waIstcoat.