The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1906-01-28

think that black enamel is alone cor
rect for mourning.
Naturally, such evening dress is
worn only to mems dinners or TO small
dinners at which a few women are
present Persons in such deep mourn
ing do not go into society. A black
tie with a white waistcoat is a sar-
torial improperly that no pressure of
circumstances could excuse.
The dinner coat is an extremely use
full garment. The best test of the ap-
propriateness of the dinner coat is the
presence.of ladies. 1t might be safely
predicated as a rule that it is out of
place when ladies are to be present
where it is worn.
But there are exceptions to this rule.
Men who are in the habit of dressing
every night for dinner feel that the
dinner coat is formal enough for home
use; and they are right.
AS a result of this, they also believe
that they can wear dinner coat when
they go to the theatre with their wives.
This is, of course, less permissible, and
the best dressed man is he who goes
to the theatre with his wife in full
evening dress.
At informal evening gatherings for
bridge or other games men are likely
to take advantage of the greater COM
fort of the dinner coat. But this ten
dency does not prove that the style IS
correct. Whenever women are present
coat-tails and white ties should be
feature of evening dress.
The newest style in the Tuxedo or
dinner coat is made Of an undresse2
worsted, is close fitting and long
enough to fall well below the hips.
The seams in the back of the coat are
so curved as to produce moderately
bell shaped effect.
This novelty must not, however, be
exaggerated. The least excess in the
bell shape turns a smart shade of
fashion into vulgarity.
The coat may be made as tight fit
ting in the waist as the wearer wants.
1t is best to have the coat close fit
ting, but looser than a dress coat.
The shoulders are not padded, but of
natural width, and the lapels are long
and narrow, with two buttonholes,
which are, of course, not used. The
pockets of the dinner coat are made
without flaps and in some coats they
are vertical and not horizontal.
The waistcoat and trousers are fin
ished in braid, the waistcoat having
three buttons and being cut with rath-
err pointed effect in both the opening
and at the bottom. In plain cloth like
the rest of the suit, the waistcoat is
single breasted.
The plain waistcoats are so little
worn, however, that they no longer
come into notice. Gray and black SILK
waistcoats, which are almost in
variably double breasted, are made to
relieve the plainness of the dinner
coat. Whether or not they are good
form is a question that has little ef-
feet on their popularity.
There was no possibility of wearing
a white waistcoat with Tuxedo and
there was a revolt against the extreme
pIainness of the black waistcoat from
those men trying to convert the
Tuxedo into something it was never
intended to be. So the fancy waist |
coats have come to stay.
Black silk ties with a figure IN, satin |
or with a stripe are the appropriate |
neckwear, while the high turnover col |
lar is the most appropriate for this |
kind Of suit.
Worn to the theatre high buttoned |
patent leather shoes and a derby hat |
complete the costume in accordance |
with the requirements of the best |
style. A silk hat is as inappropriate |
to a dinner jacket as a brown derby;
yet both are sometimes seen, to the
Encouragement of good taste in dress
ng.-N, Y. Sun. Dec. 81.