davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-17
Styles in Autumn Hosiery.

Usually 1t is in summer that the girl who
has fondness for pretty hosiery has the
greatest choice to select from in the shops;
this year 1t is not so. The autumn and VIM
ter shoes, which show every imaginable
sort Of kid or cloth top, call forth an equal
ly varied assortment Of hosiery to match
them.
There Is the gray-topped. buttoned shoe
for street wear, which Is to be so popular
this season. and with 1t come many styles
and textures of gray silk and Isle hosiery.
Some Of the prettiest patterns to go with
the gray-topped boot are embroidered In
and with very little Of the embroidery down
on the tnsteD, where the shoe buttons over
closely.
Brown IL another favorite shade for heavy
walking boots, and there are bewildering
| arrays Of every shade of brown hosiery on
the counters. One importer Of fine hosiery
had window devoted to nothing but brown
samples arranged with suede and leather
boots and slippers In the same tones, and q
fascinating assortment of yellow carriers
with handsome rose-gold buckles set with
topaz. The window attracted much atten-
ton, especially among women who were
contemplating wearing brown suits or
frocks this season.
Shaded flowers done In silk on heavy silk
hosiery are favorites aiming the designs seen
on the new evening hosiery, and the work
equals that done on the finest Of center
pieces for the dinner table or that displayed
on the sheerest OF lawn blouses. They
COElo III every Sudue lIudSludDie aI1d tn6ro
is no flower which Is not reproduced on
miladys footwear.
Medallions of lace. both black and white,
are set into many samples and insets of en-
broidered chiffon run up and down the in
step of still other importations. The old
| and rather extreme fad Of having the initial
| embroidered on the instep is out now, even
among the girls who follow every fancy Of
the season. $500 '''''''t '-
Two-tone mixtures In the best Isle are
being shown in blacks and whites, grays,
dark greens and reds. This style of hose
comes In a heavier texture and makes q
more sensible sort for cold weather, though
1t is not for this last requisite that they are
worn. Women seldom are sensible when 1t
comes to dress.
Although few women seem to realize 1t, It
il not at all q difficult matter to embroider
hose. The plainest pair Of 35-cent black
stockings may be made to look like some Of
the prettiest imported pairs with little
time and ingenuity. It is the work of a
couple Of hours to embroider forget-me-nots
"a half dozen sprays on each stocking
and the effect Is well worth the while. It
seems a much more complicated undertake
ing than 1t really Is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-17
A Dainty Fad for Bed Rooms.

One of the very latest fads among women
who take pride in the daintiness of their
homes, especially their sleeping rooms, is
the fower-garden room. 1t is now flower
garden; 1t may not have single real bloom
in 1t. but 1t is none the less attractive for
that.
Suppose 1t is to be violet bed, the walls
are tinted in pale lavender and the curtains
former. with violet ribbons to hold them
back. The bed is covered with spread
made from figured lawn or other dainty ma
terial, the figures to be nothing more than
clusters of violets The bolster roll Is of
the same material, and at each end are tied
clusters Of artificial violets, with ribbon to
tone with them
The soft silk or silkoline coverlet, which is
rolled up at the foot of the bed, must be
made by the girl herself, for they cannot be
purchased 1t Is made from cotton sachet
and the silk, and 1t need not be very large.
In between the layers of cotton spread a
generous quantity Of violet sachet, being
careful to see that it is placed SO that It
won't sift through. Then catch the cotton
here and there before the covering Is put on.
Tuft the comforter with deeper shade Of
violet and bind it in violet satin ribbon.
On the dressing table there is a violet-col-
ored cover and hatpin holder made from a
test tube. and violet ribbon, with a tassel or
two to match A hairpin holder is made to
correspond; 1t consists of nothing but a
small glass jar, purchased at any depart
ment store. and covered with violet ribbon.
The handle Is loop Of ribbon. The
pin cushion and odds and ends, even to
the chamois skin for powder, are all In the
same color scheme. The latter Is q heart
shaped piece of chamois edged in beading
and a tiny bit of lace. A baby ribbon Ii
drawn through the beading.
The floor may be covered in mating to
match the other tints. and a rug in har-
monizing tone placed here and there.
When the girl enters the room she is not
only greeted by the sight Of the violets-
the whole pretty color scheme-but deli
smell. -...,.,
This same idea may be carried out with
carnations or roses In a red or pink room,
or with any other flower for which there Is
q sachet powder made.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-17
At THE SMART HOTELS
Toilets That May Be Seen
There Every Day.
FAMED FOR MAGNIFICENCE
Every Section of Country Shows Its
Own Fads.
SOME GORGEOUS MILLINERY
Lovely Furs and the Hundreds Of
Other Dress Up
Accessories.
SOME GORGEOUS MILLINERY
Special Correspondence of The Star.


NEW YORK, November Is, 1906
The handsomest toilets to be seen now
are those worn about smart hotels. Ameri-
cans are lovers of the public hosiery. and
surely hotel life, which has come to be
more and more the thing, affords much
distraction to the woman with nothing to
do. Then in visiting great city, where
one Is comparatively unknown-or has at
best few cquaintances-there seems to be
no other means of passing the time than
of dwelling, so to speak. with an inces-
SAINT round of fine clothes.
In New York especially. the costumes of
visiting women in the largest hotels are
famed for magnifcence. 1t is curious, too
to place types through this gorgeous mil
linery alone, for every quarter Of the
states has its own dress fads. Tall, beau
tifully formed women. with brilliant COM
plexions and gowns none too fiorid for their
dashiDg types. are at once spotted as west
ern- The fair southerner, paler, more
languorous In manner, Is known by her
picturesque and often sentimental effects;
while the genuine New Yorker. especially
II she lives at the hotel Is often demurely
subdued in toilets.
Balls. concerts. charity bazaars and pub
lie teas are features of stylish hotels in
New York, and every function Is celebrated
IN fine raiment
But magnificent" does not by any means
cover the subject of this caravansary fin
cry. Splendor Is something which anybody
may achieve Speaking from the big hotel
standpoint). So the best dressers strive for
effects which, while individual, never pass
the bounds OF good taste. To accomplish
this, then, the French costume Is neces-
cary, and however gay Its color, it goes
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-17
old.Fashioned Jewelrx.

One of the most striking features of the
moment in the realm Of jewelry is the sud
den revival Of the antique as regards both
the settings and the gems themselves. Old
fashioned and cumbersome brooches, mas
sive chains, heavy gold or enamel buckles.
and enormous lockets Of ponderous weight
are nowadays as much valued by the fash
ionable world as was the delicate italian
filigree work which was so mitch In yosf,e
q few years ago.
Stones whose names had almost been for
gotten and of whose existence no one ex-
eepting perhaps the stone-cutters them
selves were aware are once more assuming
an important place in the latest schemes.
and are responsible not only for letter
weights. trinket-boxes. and such personal
matters as umbrella tops and charms, but
are being turned to account as jewelry of a
definite character.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-17

| said; I'VE are IN our rooms SO much the
plants are company. Look across the
| were rivals all last spring. Her geraniums
climbed faster than mine, but my mignon-
cites were Towering a week before hers.
See that other window? And the other
further down? Sewing girls live in those
rooms, not servants"
We were seven stories high. with a view
of the Paris house tops. Far as eye could
reach 1t was desert of chimney pots. The
GASES were the Towering window gardens
of these brave girls.
II win one of those prizes" this one
| told me, I'll have long box for soil and
lay out every garden of this street"
| cheat? Won't they have their gowns and
hats made by the swell establishments?
(There have been laughing suggestions Of
this possibility made in the Paris papers.)
Can't Fool the Committee.
"They won't dare!' she answered anx-
iously. THE Friends of Mimi Pinson" IL
serious work. Each girl who completes
must bring her blls-where bought, how
much per yard, what width. and so on.
You can't foist of the committee any
SLIGO cheviot as 25-cent fancy drapery."
How much shall you pay for your stuff o.
at depends on the width. Four yards
of one meter twenty wide will do as much
as seven yards of seventy-five ,centimeters.
am hestating over little plaid of two
tones of gray at 80 sous. Six yards and
a half will do me amply"
why, that will give You the cloth ma
terial for francs rs ($1.95). Isn't that
very 1ow?' said.
eve got to have good lining to give it
body" she replied. six yards at 95 CEN
times will add francs 20 Id and make
the bill already Is francs 45 $500. with
out trimmings or the new hat"
I saw that she was leaning toward the
hat and trimmings. Scotch plaid taffetas
for the latter and probably enough of it to
in Paris can do much with the difference
between $500 and the S. limit Of the con-
test
"a small or thin girl will have an ad-
vantage" was her final observation. when
a girl is plump think the judges ought
not scrutinize the material. Some will go
as high as forty cents yard. / wish
knew how they Will rule upon the lining
Ill write and make sure. I have an old
skirt lining
Thus they calculate all over Paris at
their mansard window gardens.
II you ask why the contest will be such
an event OF the Paris winter / viii tell
you that there are 5000 girls already en-
tered! And five times that number will be
present, either as contestants or as public.
If these figures surprise you, learn that
there are $4,000 sewing girls alone In
Paris!
The present weekly rest-day law that has
stirred up the population does not touch
them. This fact has brought home to the
Parisians at the moment burly butcher boys
and bakermen and natty grocery clerks
were bowling for their Sunday rest
First Prize Furnished Villa
And when the Paris public learned that
these good. accomplishing girls are sure
of fair pay bat 800 days each year and in
dull seasons have to earn as low as 60 cents
per day, the Paris public grew enthusiastic
over Mimi Pinsin.
This explains how the girl who shall win
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-17

chants, corporations. politicians, artists,
writer's, clubmen and society women, ana
the idea has SO taken hold of Paris that
this unique dressing contest will become
the picturesque event OF the late winter
season.
1t Is a scheme to make the girls help
themselves and educate each other-they
must have gown apiece, 1t Is fixed ex-
pense Of the winter, thus no money will be
thrown away-and when girls of less OPP
portunities and taste see what smart girls
can do with rs francs, light and sweetness
will dawn on them.
It is a scheme to give largely to girls
without wounding natural independence
prizes will be wonderfully numerous and
valuable, and, as you will see, the division
of half the gate money alone is bound to
reimburse perhaps, thousand or more
girls all their expenses while they naturally
keep the gowns.
Paid for Showing Off,"
In this way the working girls, say sewing
girls, of Paris will snow themselves of in
their new winter suits and be paid for it.
In the bargain they will have q swell after
noon and evening amid lights, music, ad-
miration and flirting, because they will not
be ranged on platforms like museum Curl
osties. but will mingle with the mighty
concourse Of Parisians in a gorgeous prone
made concert.
So Jenny at her attic window is becoming
a parsonage. Mimi in her mansard dreams
of public triumphs. You must not mix
Mimi with the girl friend OF f., Musetts IN
sets Mimi Pinson. who can be an old maid
If she will, it is her right she always has
her needle! And 1t is Jenny rOuvriere,
soul shine in the old Porte St Martin
drama, whose interpolated song only re-
mains to give to very Partisan kind
window garden:
"Cest lie jardin de Jenny rouvriere,
Au occur content. content de pu.
&c qui iui Went de Dieu!F
cTts the garden Of Jenny rOuvriere.
content Of heart content to live. She might
be rich, but doth prefer what God shall
give!D What God gives Jenny the work.
ing girl in the case of her garden Is pot
Of mignonettes on the sill and box OF
climbing convoIvulus.
Mimi Pinson has one gown sings AL
fred de Musset. Should she buy it ready
made at the on-Marche, or the Samari-
tame, the tailor variety would cost her at
the lowest catalogue prices this present
season forty-f1ve francs, or 50.
1t would give her q mighty light weight,
little complete Of cloth whose price per
yard no one may know. unie. or corkscrew.
of one shade; plain skirt and loose pale
tot or sack. both ornamented with pills,
the collar and sleeves garnished with a
remarkably small quantity Of Scotch plaid
taffetas.
A dressmaker gown, in one-shade cork
screw lainage-cal 1t woolen-with some
depassants and bits Of velvet. a few but
tons and a suspicion of lace at the elbows
can be had, by girls thin enough to get
into them ready made. as low as $3.50.
Must Watch for Bargains.
Below these prices they must pounce on
what the big shops call occasions, slightly
miscut. frayed or otherwise ready-made
bargains. When girl finds one to At her.
she may take 1t for 81 80. and some fiimsy
tailor suits as low as $3.50; but as to quail
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-17

ity. the latter will be marked quite hon
estly as "draperie fantastic" or fancy
drapery" All of which will begin to indi
cate the elements of Jenny's problem and
of MINIS prize scheming.
If the lowest counter price of an undam-
aged present season stylish gown is forty
five francs. deduct a dollar for the big
store. dollar for the sweater and dol
lar for the working bands who made it
roughly. fifteen francs from forty-five
leaves thirty francs. or So.
Probably the actual cost Of new gown
OF smart today material Is lower still.
est occasions, say IS.
Wen. to win prize in this great contest,
mimi must arrange to get herself q new hat
In the bargain.
There are Minis and Jennys living on the
mansard or top floor off my apartment
house and most Of its nefghbors. I think
It q kindly Paris practice; racial, Of course.
not individual, because the motive is Just
both families and house owners to rent
out to working girls these unused servant1
rooms. The kindness consists In the lack
Of prejudice. for Jenny often has the right
to use the big front stairway. Thus she has
q good address. In clean house, and min
giles with good people-on the stairway.
You ought, however. to see the poor girls
room.
II am lucky here" she said to me- Il
have fireplace and q closet"
On the Mansard Floor.
Every mansard floor OF Paris being cut
up into as many servants rooms as pos
sible, they frequently lack fireplaces and
regularly have no closets. They are little
boxes Just room for bed. trunk and table.
', nen. as most often happens, they are but
the sleeping rooms of servants Of the we'll
heated spacious apartments of the floors
below, there Is less hardship; but the sew
ing girls who live in them are crampd.
Let me see your garden" said.
Jenny opened wide her mansard window.
Outside 1t was almost framed with climb
ing ivy-geraniums on one side and hardy
woodbine on the other. Where were the
roots7
''Ssshhhi In that big box" she answer
ed. Il got the rich, black soil from tho
Bois It clogs up the rain gutter, but the
tanitor don't know it,
'.An Of us have window gardens" she
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-17
first prize will get a furnished villa in the
CEYLON AND INDIA TEA


suburb of Suresnes.
Among the prizes are three autos, two
dozen sets of bed room furniture, thousands
Of yards Of jacket and dress material, one
hundred postal savings bank books with S.
credit started In each, some 800 carpets. 100
stoves, twenty arm chairs, ten gold watches
and a dwindling lot of prizes-valuable all
that run into the hundreds offered by big
hearted merchants who desire the advertise
ment of 1t for their business.
Quite as important will be the sum total
Of the cash admissions to the Grand
Palais.
There have been days at the automobile
salon when the ground floor of the Palais
contained at given hour one hundred
thousand persons In spite of the enormous
space necessarily taken up by the exhibit
tors stands.
A hundred thousand franc admissions to
the oontest-caIl 1t the promenade concert
Of good giris-will produce $4,000. In one
afternoon and evening this sum may be
realized as profit. Half will go to The
Friends of Mimi Pinson" for their general
work, sick benefits. sick visiting and so on.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-17

gown Is of cloth 1t Is often elf-trimmed,
with novel system of cutting which will
display ornamental seams. These are strap
ped or stitched each side, and when the
coat Is thrown aside plaid silk waist in
the gown colors may be seen. For outdoor
wear these silk waists are coming much to
the fore. They are warmer than the lin.
gerie ones so much worn, and a look Of
great elegance Is given them by lace or ba-
tiste yokes and trimmings of narrow velvet
and steel buckles. But the silk bodice al
ways harmonizes with the gown texture
the background or barring of the material
creating at once the look of a costume. For
example, a dashing little frock Of mole
colored cloth had an under blouse Of mole
silk plaided with white. and black. blue
observation-disclosures serge this-with violet
and green embroidery, at the Jacket front.
sported plaid blouse in these colors.
Sometimes, with very smart frocks, the
silk Is yelled with chiffon, which effects an
elusiveness much more charming and dressy
than when the plaid Is openly shown.
Only Jacket Trimmed.
Only the jacket Of the trottoir dress Is
trimmed, but upon this will be lavished
many charming touches, in the way of
vests, neck and sleeve trimmings, etc. Two
huge buttons Of a very ornamental nature
set in rims of braid or gathered silk or
velvet-are smart features Of some OF
these jacket fronts. The rather skinny
skirts fall in side or box pleats.'
But it Is the gown for afternoon and even
ing wear that gets the greater part Of public
attention, for these admit of the luxurious
effects synonymous with hotel life Cloth
of silken fneness is much employed, and
gray-white and greenish canary-yellow are
the latest fads. For evening use the white
cloth may be combined with chiffon, or
rather the gown is practically of chiffon,
with cloth trimmings. Oddly shaped cloth
fiounces will be cut out and applied to the
diaphanous background, superb embroid-
cries of fossy white silk blending the two
materials at the lines of the join. With
one canary-yellow dress went a long coat,
that and the trailing skirt showing an In
crustation OF delicate braid and embroidery
which was almost like jewelry. The under
bodice of this was of gold tissue with a
white chiffon and lace CAMP, a deep girdle
of the gold meeting under a bar of tiny
roses made of the tissue.
Apropos of the rose, 1t Is everywhere seen.
Trails of little stiff ones, made in materials
which often seem like wax, drape over
bodices and border lace festoons on evening
skirts. These may be In blue, magenta or
a deep unnatural pink, but there are stiff,
funny little leaves and stems Of green to
initiate nature. Like the tinsel flowers,
these strangely poetic creations in gold and
silver and marvellous color are the aristo-
Gratis in fashions dollhouse. Some big,
homely widespread roses. such as grow at
the farm between rows of cabbages, are
SEEM however, for hats. They are put
singly or in pairs upon huge shapes of
felt, stretched silk. drawn net or
lace tulle, fur or anything the millner may
fancy, combining with them.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-17
THOUSANDS IN THE CONTEST
Gown and Hat MIST Cost Less Than
Five Dollars.
GAY CAPITAL MUCH INTERESTED
Furnished villa Will Be Given to
Winner Of First Prize-Picturesqus
Event Of Late Winter Season.

Special Correspondence Of The Star.
PARIS, November 3, 1908.
The young working girls of Paris are
preparing to surprise the world by ingenuity
and taste in dress while winning valuable
prizes.
Thousands of them in new hats and gowns
VIII show themselves of at a monster
promenade concert, under the eyes of all
classes Of Parisians. And each costume
hat and gown-must have cost less than rs
francs, or s5i
The affairs importance is shown by its
place, the Grand Palais, beneath its giant
dome, exactly like the annual salon.
It Is contest organized around the work
that has for name The Friends of Mind
Pinson," but the prizes come from mer-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-17

.-, -. , II. $780,.
and innumeraTIe i,tfIe Jacket, have the
waist 40 hi9h that the wearer looks truly
as Ia she had outrrovvn her. cIothes.s The
to length, and Infinitely fussy as to treat
ment, and one new sort much observed for
wraps has the arm covering cut with the
shoulder so that the effect Ia Quita kiapno-
like. This Is also sometimes used for low
bodices whatever trimming emnloTed over
the bust shaping the sleeves without sign Of
seam, A wide band Of blue and gray -tinsel
embroidery used upon q gray-blue dress Of
chiffon velvet Accomplished the kiznono
sleeves in one instance.
Such fine gowns as are supplied with
matching coats are often worn indoors at
the hotel, for the coats aresvefy HIGHT and
designed with this ornamental end. Not
fur Jacket is seen. such pelts as are used
being always white Or fHncy c0l6red. The
less precious skins In these. are cut up ruth
lessly into all sorts OF 0rnamentatfon; and
with Its short sleeves. Its fat neck Arrange
ment, its laces, bows and splendid but
tons the fur coat Is. ct once theZ@ ball
like fixing.
n.,,- us4 sss4ss~s-sS-~
Ane A4e
Accompanying tho richer Ag0Wnsssa and
those in dfaphanous taxtures hafa To uuote
tho ,n,ilfner prord are ssci,c ne fseo,r-
-
ming with vast, daring shapes the head
piece Is burdened with rich feathers-un-
curled like willow branches sometimes-and
With tho 1o,a ond .,,,ar-u,ortad t,lIa
ttnsa, anraS 90 h,,cSias fraouan4Iv nina
;nnIas ione W Uu sitti,,s at,out the .eorris
aors or IN the nar,ors the e1eeanf vision
uears No Glove. mi. &c RI sbov ripua of
sah,f,,a n1.nIc nI,aS 80 nno+ahad hv
i . spisnooL, WHICH ale uoeoou ~
diamond ana pearl necklaces, worn over
hn hirrh 1tvHa n
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-17

Some of the prettiest frocks seen about
thesa places are the short-skirted costumes
S-cst) Dir worn In the morning for shopping,
the promenade. etc These display we'll
dressed feet to the utmost advantage. and
the Jaunty sack Jackets OF many give almost
all figures surprisingly girlish appearance.
Trim toQues or smallish sailor hats are ac-
comDanying headgear, and even upon
mild day huge muff is often carried.
Again, a feather set may be worn, of coque,
maybe mixed with ostrich marabout, the
the wearer's patent leather shoes. II the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-17

dash a checked chiffon velvet In the same
tone. The check seemed to be only stamped.
and In the folds 1t showed coppery shad.
fngs, though except for a novel skirt border
and some slight touches Of 1t on the bodice
little of the vlvet was used. Gold tissue
with copper red roses Of raised embroidery
formed the corsage, the fall of whose
short sleeves was made by a plain cream
net outlined with gilt thread.
Much gilt Is observed on the dressier of
the evening frocks. one gown of white Japa-
nese gauze showing an all-over embroidery
OF gold butterflies put on seatteringly.
As to the Waist Line.
AS to model. more bodices with the usual
waist line are seen than those with empire
leaning. Still tremendous number of toll