The Lee County journal. (Leesburg, Ga.) 1904-19??, 1906-12-28
HOW PERFUMES ARE MADE.
Countries That Produce the Most
Scents By Chemical Process.

SSCllS ny CuCfHtCaI PROCESS.
Scents are not what they seem, was
the moral of the address given yester-
day by John c. Umney before the
members of the Royal Horticultural
society," says the London Tribune.
Many of the perfumes known to the
public were compounded preparations,
explained Mr.. Umney. Sometimes a
blending Of several odors produced
the odor Of one particular flower. The
lily of the valley perfume. for instance,
was not made from the lily of the val
ley, and the same might be said Of the
wall flower, sweet pea and carnation
perfumes.
Specially interesting was the list of
perfumes made artifcially in the
chemical laboratory. They included
musk vanilla, made from sawdust;
conmarin or new mown hay; hello
tropin, which is an excellent repre-
sentation of heliotrope; Aubepin, or
hawthorn; inone, or violet, and the re-
Gently discovered neroli, which repre-
sents very exactly the scent of the
orange flower.
Maceration of the petals was the
only method of extracting perfume
used by the ancients, explained Mr..
Umney. A vegetable oil was extracted
from the petals, and this, after clari-
fication, resulted in a sweet smelling
pomade, but later, in 100 A. D., the
distillation process was introduced il
to Europe.
The volatile industry seemed to have
developed from very small beginnings
in the south Of France in the sixteenth
century, but the real perfumery in
dustry might be said to have its orig
in the preparation of Hungarian
water in the sixteenth century, a prep
aration made from rosemary.
The most delicate flowers, the tube
rose and the jasmine, still have their
perfume extracted by placing fats
ever their petals Lavender and at
tar of roses we're distilled Attempts
to induce the growth Of roses on the
Riviera where so many perfumes
were made. had not met with success,
and Kezanlik was still the home of the
altar of roses industry. The Bulgar-
ian government, Mr. Umney told his
listeners, were attempting to make
certain standards for altar of roses,
SO that this very expensive perfume
may not reach the English market
mixed with cheap geranium oil.
The perfume of yiolets was extract
ed by macerating the flowers in fat at
a high temperature, the compound be-
ing afterward placed i'll very powerful
hydraulic presses. IN the case of
oranges, lemons and bergamot fruit so
much used in the preparation of the
od-fashioned opoponax and ess bou-
Duet perfumes, the volatile oil is eX-
tracted from the peel, great care be-
ing taken not to damage the peel so
that it may still be used for sailing.
AS an instance of the highly concen-
trated state to which the essential oil
may be brought, the lecturer showed
phial of essence Of lemon, each drop
of which was equivalent to the juice
and peel of four lemons.
The perfumery industry on the
French Riviera is not merely a season
one. The perfumery calendar drawn
up by Mr.. Umney begins with March
and April, when violets and jonquils
are ready to be treated, and ends with
the cassis in late October and the
early days of November. In May and
June the rose and orange blossoms are
out and in July especially the orange
leaves, which yield the so-called petit
grain oil, are ready Jasmine, tube
rose and lavender all blossom in Au-
gust and September.
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