davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04
better taste; but this, Of course, neoessi'

better taste; but this, OF couree, necessi-
tates some trouble and labor.
A white serge bolero and circular skirt
costume pictured among the small cuts is
fairly representative OF q desirable type
of costumes numerous this season. The
skirt is untrimmed save for self bands, and
the bolero has only a little pale blue and
gold soutache in straight lines on the turn
down collar, and gold buttons for trimming.
The same model is made with no braiding
at all, but with rundown collar and turn
back cuffs Of hand embroidered batiste
edged by valenciennes frills.
Shantung, Birmingham and other heavy
silks are made up into severe street COS
tunes, and into elaborate frocks as we'll,
and these silks are exhibited this season in
a delightful line Of oolors, some Of the
blues and willow greens having especially
delightful possibilities.
The Birmingham model pictured hero Is
offered In q soft dull blue and In one Of
the raspberry shades that, promise to be
as modish as they are ~unbeooming. The
trimming Of heavy applique embroidered
batiste, forming tuoks below the waist
line OF the bodice front and running up
to constitute a girdle at sides and back, is an
idea that is effective while most simple.
Pongees Of all kinds in their natural
shades promise to lave much favor, and in
several Of the most exclusive shops are
shown imported frocks Of natural hued
pongee trimmed in black silk, satin or
velvet, and frightened only by creamy
lace at the collar and in the sleeves. One
sees, too, some particularly chic hats in
burnt straw Of shades much like those of
the pongees and natural toned linens.
trimmed in black satin or velvet and clusters
Of black ostrich tips; and, though this tan
and black combination is not particularly
becoming, 1t has much smartness when worn
by the right woman.
Voiles ave become perennial favorites,
and are out this spring in every imaginable
~form-s;riped, checked plaid, embroidered,
dotted. Some very attractive white voiles
are plaided in moderate lines, but the plaid
design is obtained by the weaving, not by
ooloring, alternating lines OF very ahser
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04

charm Of the white and black effects; but,
for all that, one is already slightly tired
Of the endless repetition, and II seems highly
probable that before spring is well advanced
the white and black check in all its phases
will have become distressingly monotonous.
II white and black the spring shopper
must have. It would be the part Of wisdom
TO choose something other than the at
tTactive cheek, and one Of the mixed grays
or modes would be even wiser a choice.
occasionally one runs across a material
that while subscribing, after a fashion,
20 prevailing tendencies has a decided in
dividuality.
One of the prettlest suitings In a Sixth
avenue shop noted for It's high class ma
terials was q broken check which con-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04

closely draped around the figure. A collar
was of violet velvet, and the waistooat
line, which the French call a depdssdnt, was
Of black satin.
Wide, fiat, white silk braid marked the
continuous princesse line on each side Of
the pam skirt front, the pointed ends Of
the braid bands boing finished with pointed
folds alternately violet and black. and this
same effect was introduced elsewhere upon
the frock.
A second frock Of the large picture was
nf hair line check, but this time only black
ard white were in the color scheme, and
black velvet gave the effective note Of
Individuality to tho model. Black velvet
bands were on the skirt bottom, and tho
belszo was fulled into a plain black velvet
harder trimmed in heavy Irish crochet.
White and black effects amount to q
mania In the early showing Of models and
fnhgics, and every possible variation upon
white and black checks, plaids, stripes,
dohA DO, Il wrought not only In woollens
hus also In silks and cottons. Some of
sna very prettest Of the new silks are in
lazerOus white messS,ine checked OF in
eAtfssr large squares Of, say, Q quarter
nd. By a clearlins Of black.
6nS -oan deny the refinement and.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04

mixed effects in delicate neutral tones, az
we'll az the ubiquitous checks
White serge or panama with a black
line stripe Is used for Some of the smartest
Palm Beach morning froCks Of tailor type,
which indicates that such costumes will
obtain favor during the coming summer.
A little black velvet, in collar, cuffs and
buttons 10 added to some Of there costumes,
but others nave absolutely no trimming,
save tailor stitching and bands
One very chic frook in striped white and
black serge made by a Now York dress
maker for a customer who went South in
February, had a plain circular skirt with
three stitched folds, and a short box coat
with big heavy pearl buttons. Not a hint OF
trimming appeared upon the coat, but the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04
I'm BLACK AND WHITE
One Popular Fancy for the
Spring Gown
CHECKS. PLAIDS, STRIPES,
Many Changes Rung OF the Two
Color Idea.

me Materials for Spring Dresses Partlcu-
larIy Vernal This Year--smart walking
Costumes OF stverest TsilOr Finish
Made I'm Checks or Piaids-The Light
Cloths Onered in Novel and Pleasing
Colorings-Heavy silks Used for Street
>FrOcks-POnsees Promise 70 Have
Much FavOr-VOIles Perennial FavOrite.
When %wildhowers are blooming and
bees and butterflies are on the wing In
February, spring arrives in fact as we'll
as 10 tradition with the advent of March,
and spring frocks are, like all things be-
longing to the season, coming to the front
early this year.
OF course, blossoms and butterflies and
frocks may all be nipped by killing frosts
before May, but all three have been taking
chances, and it seems probable that Easter
will actually show a spring fashion exhibit
this season instead'of being given over to
shabby winter frocks and felt hats and
furS. 20
Never were materials for the first spring
costume more truly Vernal than they are
this year. The white and black and light
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04

models made fussy with intricate braiding
and demonstration having much less oachet
than the simpler tailored models. In fact
this ruling holds good throughout most Of
the province of domestic ready made street
costumes.
New YORK pain tailor work has no SUI
perior. Even the Partisan manufacturers
admit that, but in the matter Of color sense
and trimming detail manufacturers here
leave much to be desired, and a ready made
street frock excellent in line and workman
ship is often spoiled by some tawdry bit
Of trimming. Many clever women buy
such a costume for the sake OF its material
and cut. remove the Objectionable braided
or machine embroidered collars, cuffs, &C.,
and substitute something palmer and in
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04

and Of heavier weave producing the desired
effect. The Same idea IL also developed
in the light grays and mode colors; and
sometimes over the one tone plaid surface
will run a two or three inch check marked
of in the finest hairline Of some delicate
pastel color
Grcys Of all tones are common among
silks as we'll az suitings, grey and white
stripes or checks Of infinitesimal smallness
with dots or circles Of delicate color
sprinkled over the surface being among the
moro youthful of the grey messalineS,
tafretas and radiums.
A lustrous striped single tone silk woven
alternately transparently sheer and quite
opaque is called radia and Is m Of the
prettiest Of the novelties, giving somewhat
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04
Men Make Eccl esIastical Embr o,der,s.

FROM ne 81. Lous Globe Democrat,
OF white brocaded satin, embroider Grad
with gold, the vestment measured sbout
throe feet by FIVE,
at is $500" the dealer said. 1T is 200
years old"
He to uched the heavy and bright embroId.
cry
fot, it is, worked with Holland gold thread "
q, thread Of silver, gold plated. such as only
the Dutch can make. '
with, these stln threads Of silver plated
With gold only strong men can embroIder
The task IL beyond the strength Of woman.
All sqod ecclesiastical embroidery 10 men q
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04
Japanese Girl Mountaineers.

FTOW ING UupuW IIUW,
A little girl named Yasuko. aged 10. daugh-
ter Of Admiral Kabayama. accompanied by a
girl student Of the Toxic Jogakkan named
Kiyoko. aged is. daughter of Consul-G General
Arakawa. and n maid. began to climb
Fujiyama on the 18th instant. and intended
to spend a night at the seventh station. hut
they were compelled TO stay there for two
nights because Of the stormy weather.
reaching the summit and returned home
safely on the 18th: Miss Yasuko kept an in
t~eresting diary Of her trip for her father. So
women " assembled Full. but Iatterly tho
idea has been popular among girl students.
Miss Yssnko' the her2lne Of the present
to have been inspired 10 the effort BY daiiv
contemplation Of the big mountain an seen
from her father garden. VIVA
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04

mixed grays, which lead in the new suit
ings, strike a clear and delicate color note,
and the innumerable variations upon these
ideas are the most noteworthy thing about
the new street frocks.
Smooth finished wocllens in soft mixed
colorings of light tone seem to have elbowsd
the rougher tweeds and, homespuns aside,
and of check and bar and plaid patterns
there is no end. A majority of the latter
show a White ON delicate neutral ground,
crossed of by h~airlines of black or of black
and blue, black and violet, &c. In some
cases there is no black line 1t all, and the
checks are worked by lines of color, but the
materials in which black and colored lines
are combined nave rather more character
and distinction.
One Of the models OF the central sketch
was a particularly good illustration Of this
point, the material having a white surface
barred into checks by fine lines of black
and Parma violet. The touch of violet
gave to the fabric a certain delicate spring
like bloom, without making it in any degree
bright or striking, and the makers of the
frock introduced both black and violet
into the trimming scheme with excellent
effect.
The princcsse skirt and bolero idea,
more popular than ever and better under
stood by the makers than at first, was
the basis of this model, but only the front
was plain princesse, the sides OF the skirt
being full above the waist line, though
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04

dots In groups Of varying sizes and In
several shades Of apricot further oomplicate
the design.
Exquisite shot Powered silks Of blurred
design covering the whole surface and COM
bining soft neutral and pastel tones, rather
than white and color, are being used for
little coats with skirts Of pastel tint, q In
the case Of one Of the models included In
the large sketch, where skirt and waistooat
were of pearl grey %broadoloth while the little
bolero was Of shot grey and white silk
lowered in grey and dull American beauty
tones.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04

fronts when left open revealed a mannish
waistcoat Of pastel blue broadoloth fasten-
ing with pearl buttons smaller thai those
upon the coat
white aud black striped serge illustrated
here was a successful model. The circular
skirt was cut with a bias front seam and
straight sides, and trimmed in fat white
fbre silk braid. The loose bolero also
had a trimming of white braid, but collar
and cuffs were ornamented by lines Of fine
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04
THE RICHEST SCROOLMA,AM.
Sister OF John FarsOn, Banker. Teaches in
Chicago Schools.

SIBItF Ut JUTN F2TBOHI HuIIktEp KCACubS IN
Chicago Schools.
Miss Elizabeth Farson, whose private in
come is said to be $40 a day, and whose
brother ia the banker, John Farson, is a
Chioago school teacher at a salary Of $40 a
week.
She has been teaching Chicago children
for almost thirty years, and keeps on doing
30 simply because she loves the work and
sees in it a chance to mould for good the
future citizens OF the big town. She says
hat IL she had a million dollars a year she
still would be a teacher. At present she Is
principal of a school attended by 1900
pupils.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04

scheme Of the Partisan; and among the
messalines there are some most attractive
cerise and white combinations. The pin
point dots Of white scattered thickly on a
cleaning cerise surface and the fine lines
Of white set closely together On a csrise
ground give perhaps the daintiest and cool
est effects among these cerise and white
combinations, and a pretty silk is OF the
finest possible black and white oheok
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04

the same impression as a silk gauze, finely
striped with satin. There are also many
silk fabrics of similar type but with wider
stripes and printed all over the surface in
Persian design.
Cerise, though vivid for hot weather is
always included in the summer toilette
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-04

white soutache and black soutsche, and the
fronts were finished by tiny black satin
revers set with small gold buttons.
TlGin white serge and white panama
costumes Of simple design are more numer-
Gus than usual in all the best shopn, and the
palmer these costumes are, provided their
lines are good, the more chic their effect,
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-02-11

consider his demand for concessions,
and Moran, knowing his game, waited
until the ''reformers'' got in before he
pushed the matter to its limit.
The new city engineer discreetly
says nothing, but it may be inferred
that he is giving out the pabulum with
which to prepare the public mind for
this latest and heaviest dose of re
form" 1t is. of course, only an Incl
dent that Moran, the contractor, was
one of the contributors to the Amer
lean" party campaign fund and has
been one of the party's warmest sup
porters on the quiet.
Whether the Salt Lake public is
willing to sit by and see the city adj
ministration hand out another $3.50, 900
to Moran remains to be seen. but just
now it is evident that the money will
be spent if City Engineer Kelsey, the
Black committee and Moran can carry
out their plans.
Great are the patriots and great
is their reform
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-02-11
BRIGHT WESTERN BOYS.

Seven of the first twenty-five mem
bers Of the Annapolis graduating class
come from far western states. Two of
the seven come from Salt Lake City
and two from Idaho. The others are
distributed among Wyoming, Montana
and New Mexico. Il strikes us that this
is a remarkably creditable showing.
Three western states and one territory
furnish not far from one-third of the
honor men. Some day those fasteners
will sit up and take notice of the fact
that some mighty bright young men
come out of the great west.
The Herald particularly congratu-
lates Midshipmen Barker and Wallace
Of Salt Lake. Barker was in the first
seven and Wallace wasn't very much
farther down. Had it not been for an
attack of illness there is no doubt but
that Wallace, as well as Barker, would
have been in the first seven. These
young men won their high places as the
result of merit. They had no influences
other than their determination to sue
coed, and they thoroughly deserve the
honors that have come to them.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-02-11
AN ABSURD PROPOSAL.

The Statist, a London financial paper,
evidently labors under a misapprehen-
sion. 1t seems to believe that the Unit
ed States hasn't enough troubles of it's
own. The Statist calmly invites Presi-
dent Roosevelt to undertake the po-
Icing of Morocco in order to prevent a
conflict between France and Germany.
That surely. is a. fine business PROPOSE
tiOn-fOr France, Germany and Eng
land. In return for the trouble and ex-
pense to which this. nation would be
put, it would receive the cordial esteem
Of the powers interested. as long as it
suited them to put up with our polio
ing.
of course President Roosevelt should
accede to the proposition instantly. He
should take his big stick in his hand
and go right over to Morocco to tell
the natives that if they were not good
to France and Germany he would beat
them up a bit. What fine thing that
would be- 1t might even furnish the
excuse for another term for Roosevelt
on the plea that he should be given
plenty of time in which to get Morocco
pOliced to his satisfaction
In the meanwhile, though, a view of
the situation shows that we have Just a
few troubles that belong to us exclu-
siYely. The odOriferous Panama canal,
for example, the Philippines, Porto
Rico, SantO Domingo and a few little
things like that are entertaining us
somewhat. Then we may have to hold
Castro before long while France chas-
tises him. That ought to leave us a lot
Of time in which to police Morocco.
Yes, seriously, great many people
would be perfectly willing for the Unit
ed States to undertake the job if Mr..
Roosevelt would lead the American
forces in person. The job positively
must not be sub-let to prospective Son
in-law LOngworth
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-02-11
Bubble and Squeak P By B:: T.,l.,

for anything. Nothing rejected that is
decipherable.
The Baptist Union, Chicago, does not
pay for stories about actresses or base
ball players.
Town Topics, New York. requests its
correspondents to be little more care
full until further notice.
The Woman's Home Companion, New
York, wants really funny Jokes" They
must be perfectly safe and well-aged.
The Century does not care for articles
on timely topics unless they are well
written.
Harper's Bazaar will pay good prices
for bright, snarpy dress patterns that
have strong human interest and end
happily.
Can journalism be taught? Experts
have disagreed. At the time Mr.. Pu-
litzer's College of Journalism was pro-
posed. opinions as to it's value were
sharply divergent. Journalism was
held to be a mysterious calling, no
more to be taught than clairvoyance or
second sight. Now, literature is as
much more mysterious and reconcile
tha1 journalism as Freemasonry is
more mysterious and reconcile than,
say, the Union League club, and its ap-
peal to popular interest is proportion
ately greater, as is attested by the col
umnS of notes about authors in the
daily newspapers. Without Venturing
upon the argument, can literature be
taught? it will be our pleasant task
from time to time, to lay bare the mys-
teri5s Of literature, and readers are
assured that nothing could possibly be
more interesting. A complete expose
is promised. We shall probably begin
with the Author Chaser, one of the
most interesting figures in modern lit
erature. B. L. T.
fConYright 1an6 hv Insenh 2 Rnuzles \
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-02-11
Saving THE CITY.

The patriots" are saving the city
as fast as a complacent council and
an elastic treasury will permit. This
time it is the city recorder who is to
be given another deputy at SIS a
month The health officer has secured
his additional salary for an assistant.
the city auditor has been given a
''bookkeeper" to do the auditors work,
with a salary, and naturally the city
recorder sees no good reason why his
Office should not get in line for the
good things-and an additional name
on the payroll. The city treasurer. the
street department, the waterworks de-
partment and the dog catcher are vet
to be heard from, but doubtless they
have their plans made and viii come
TO the trough in good time.
In this connection it is interesting to
note the discovery of the patriots,
that the Big Cottonwood conduit will
have to have about $4,000 of loot
spent on it TO make it water-tight and
agreeable to Pat Moran, the contract
or. The conduit was designed bv ana
OF the best engineers in the west; it
would pass inspection under any test
that could be applied to ft-except the
inspection Of a council committee
headed by Black and educated by Mo-
ran. There is no more need of adding
to itsseost than there would be for re-
building the temple as a. measure Of
safety
The fact is that Moran took the con-
tract at an exceedingly low figure. and
the ink on his signature to the con-
tract had scarcely dried before he be-
gan figuring on extras" for profit
The=Morris administration refused to
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-02-11
THE ARMoRY CASE.

Colonel Joseph Geoghegan, acting
adjutant general and inspector general
OF the Utah National Guard. is ex-
actly right in rendering his resignation
because the governor and secretary of
state have overruled him and granted
the use of the armory for a political
meeting next Monday night. Colonel
Geoghegan's reason as given is his IN
willingness to stay in office after he
has been discredited, but he might
have given a still better cause for his
action.
In the case of Lewis VS.. Bateman,
known as the school house case, the
supreme court of the state of Utah
held that the use Of a building erected
by public funds for anything but pub
lie. purposes is illegal. Not only that,
but the court specifically held that the
use of such a building for political or
religious purposes is clearly illegal, an
indirect misuse of trust funds, and not
to be permitted. In this particular
case the statute enacted uncOnstitu-
tionally by the legislature permitted
the school trustees to allow dances and
arnusements in the public school build
ings under proper conditions; in the
armory. case, there was no statute Civ
ing a shadow of right to devote the
guards Quarters to a political gather
ing. so -the offenders have not a leg to
stand on.
1t is plain the decision OF the court
applies not only to buildings owned by
the state, but to any premises con-
trOlled by the public and dedicated to
public use, wheeler owned or rented
Clearly the use of the armory for a
Republican banquet is a defiance of
the decision of the supreme court of
the state OF Utah, and the intention to
prevent the use of the armory for such
purpose is the more remarkable in
that the banquet is TO have a Justice of
the same supreme court, D. y. Straup.
as its presiding officer and POSTMASTER.
1t would be manifestly unfair to as
sumo that so brilliant a lawyer. one
so well versed in the important de-
cisinns of his own COURTS unfamiliar
with the case Of Lewis VS.. Bateman.
and still one hesitates to believe that
Justice Straup. knowing of this case,
would willingly be identified with a de-
hberate misuse of public building as
defined by his own court.
1t viii be seen that not only is an
explanation of some sort due from the
governor and secretary Of state, who
are primarily responsible for this dill
emma, but that Justice Straup owes it
to the people and his associates on the
bench TO tell how he came to be party
TO so remarkable a case of contempt
of court. .--...-.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-02-11

He-Dearie, / viii buy you a parrot
to talk to when 1 am busy.
She-Perhaps it would say something
witty, and that would be nice
change.
If a maxim maker endeavored to live
according to his own maxims, he would
be even d greater contradiction than
most men who live without any phil
osophy at all.
The saying that it is better to be an
old mans darling than young man S
slave was never written by medical
man, for such a man would know that
a man who is worn out physically
doesn't want a darling, but a nurse. A
young woman would more likely be an
old mans slave. A young man is often
a young wOman's slave, too; and there
is happiness in a state of reciprocal
bondage.
There is this to be said for medioc-
rity: 1t provides for those dependent
upon it, while genius sacrifices all for
an idea.
He-A modest man is an abomination
to a woman in love.
Shea great anxiety and suspense,
rather.
When a woman is reduced to talking
only common sense to her male &C.
quaintances, she is either reconciled to
being clasSed as passe, or is badly dis
illusioned with life
Wealth often accentuateS a man S
vulgarity; poverty somewhat excuses it.
A friendly interest" is often a
euphemism for an impudent curiosity.
WALTER BLACKBURN HARTE.