The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-11-10
CHANGES IN MEMS WEAR.
TAILORS SEEKING TO AVOID
 EXTREMES IN STYLE.

Change is the Shorter and Tighter TroUse<s. Well dressed men in New York never allow themselves to be led into order ing what the salesmen will in many shops call the very smartest things in mems fashions. The man who allowed himself to be advised in this way would one year wear short coat cut in at the waist and flaring out at the hips. The next year he would have on coat that falls half way to his knees, and would find himself dressed only in blue, gray or brown, according to the dictum of the particular tailor with whom he happened to deal.
 In looking generally over the fash Ions of the coming season in New York as they are turned out by the best men, one realizes how little change there is from season to season and how all the change that does exist seems in the direction of an improvement. It would be absurd to say that the sack coat of matter, is the same as that worn last | however, that they cannot make coat several years old look distinctly un- smart. One might argue that this was poor business on the part of tailor, but they do not find 1t so
 That would be the worst thing a smart tailor could do," said one of them to a Sun reporter, flor men would never buy as many suits as they do if they thought it was going to be impossible to wear theem during sec- ond year. will tell you how that happens. Men come to me and order half dozen sack suits, thinking that those suits are going to last them for two winters or maybe more. They come chances out of ten that they will order just as many more suits intending that they shall last for a long time. Now, If our styles changed pronounced ay from year to year no man would buy more than one or two suits, how ever rich he was. On the other hand, we must have some little novelty every year to show the customers that the coats they are going to buy are not adentically the same as those they have already"
 Take the sack suit as an example of the change from last year There is to be observed the same length, which brings the coat well below the hips The shoulders are not padded in the least unless a man Is conspicuously narrow shouldered. Then the effect of greater breadth is secured in way that English cutters follow. Padding is not put into the Things, but the coat is cut broadly over the shoulders. The sleeves are set on then at the extreme i edge of the shoulder and are not so made that they have to have the cloth cut out.
 The sack coat has broad rolled col- lar that does not fold back but turns over in a loose rool. There may be two or three buttons in the front of the coat, and the sleeves are finished with narrow turnover cuff. This is done especially in the tweed sack coats. Those made in more dressy material usually have the three button vent at the bottom of the cleeve.
 The coat must not be tight, but comes together so closely over the hips that the waistcoat cannot be seen al- though they are longer this year than last. The neck is always cut s0 low that the waistcoat shows for a depth of two inches above the rolling collar,
 When the waistcoat is made of the same material as the coat 1t is usually the best form to have it made with a collar. When it is of fancy material the waistcoat has no collar and is pointed in two peaks at the bottom. There are three outside pockets, of which two are provided with flaps. The other, which is the upper handkerchief pocket, has nosuch finish.
 A novelty in the material for sack coats this year is the flannel which is tn design similar to the patterns used in summer. Stripes in blue and white and in green, in brown and red and checks of dark green and black are of the same looking material but in win ter weight. These materials allow greater variety in fashion. All coats, however, are made with but one vent in the back and that must not be too deep, and Is never buttoned.
 One noticeable novelty in dress this year is the shortened trousers. They will be from one-half to two inches shorter. This extreme shortness ap- plies only to those for business wear. They barely cJme to the instep and must be worn without uppers of any kind. With frock coat or one of the morning or cutaway oJats, as they are called here, the trousers fall to the tor of the foot and cover the instep, For evening wear they must be lung enough to touch the sock, as pumps having nc uppers, require much longer trousers There is another novelty about the cut of trousers which will be a source ot delight to everybody weary of the shapeless bags that have been worn for several years. They are to be made al least an inch tighter, and that is only the beginning of fashion that vii before long take from two to three inches out of the maximum width al present
 The fall cutaway, which will to such @ great extent replace the fr}ck this winter, will in nearly every case bC trimmed with braid. It is to be worn with gray or other neutral tint oi striped trousers. There are only two buttons on this coat, which shows the fancy waistcoat both at the top and l,ot+o,,, I,rnnd roll oO1Ior fo o,,i