Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-01

.ELC4 UC a 4A1LUh-mhUE.
measure. The coat will be ready for the
try-on next Tuesday
But no. she said. I want that coat
ITSELF
OF course they would not let her have It.
1t was model dscolored by the sun; It
would not fit her; she ought not to want IT.
When she insisted they grew angry-and
finally refused to take her order.
All right" she said at last. I'll now
give you five minutes just. to hand me
down that coat in return for my $15. Other
charge you with exposing goods with mark
ed prices and refusing to sell them"
Caught in Their Own Trap.
THAT was the end of the controversy"
said Nine. Klein They gave her the
coat for SIS. French law being very strict
upon the subject. They saw that they
were fairly caught for once"
Madame" said. what are to be the
new autumn styles?'
As she seemed perfectly unhesitating and
frank in her answer believe she gave me
the real tip. II you. in turn. can make
anything out of 1t. here it is:
I'VE are coming back to the short waist"
she said. But 1t must be a particular
short waist. difficult to explain. Tenez.
the gown must be SO formed that you will
see a loRg-waisted woman underneath it.
OF course, It is done by the cut Arriving
at q certain point 1t quits the waist"
"Next?" I said.
"Basques.' answered madame "Basques
and ballooned skirts trimmed (garne) al
most to the top"
Trimmed how?'
For example. with velvet cut in tresses
Also we are taking up the Medicis collar
ITO go with the silhouette Of this new
r,<n1a 10 -
we get them accepted? Can we impose
them on customers? Otherwise we must
find q silhouette Of a sleeve that will give
the effect of being short. yet is not short
For example, superposed volants."
Here 1 confess. 1 lost track for a mo-
ment.
"Basques. madame" found myself say
ing when l recovered consciousness, but
have they not had basques galore very
recently?"
Apart from the grande jaquette. which
is always current and of which il Is USE
less to speak, 1 will put the basque first in
Importance. but it will be short basque
A long basque, in truth. takes all the chic
out of fancy tailor gown. A woman who
wants serious costume, strictly tailor
made, may have a long basQue-because IL
makes costume by itself. 1t is the same
with the grande jaquette, which is eco
nomical and dresses many women well A
woman who has grande jaquette costume
for the winter has manteau In it. But
for all that is fancy tailor-the vast ma
short
with long basque you cannot trim
the skirt much" 1 said intelligently.
Ballooning Effect on Skirts.
Exactly" replied madame. pleased with
my quick perception. And, as I have
ssid, skirts are to be trimmed exceedingly.
AS to ampleur. they will have almost az
much in fropt and behind as at the sides
nd rvfno vhn
You may really call 1t a crinoline dis
guised."
"Hoops?" I inquired
''Oh, no. nothing of the kind. The bal
looming effect will be obtained only by the
quantity of material. Also, I may men
ton. We will try to lengthen those little
paletots. giving them a new cut; to make
the same silhouette that women had In
them this summer, only more comfortable.
And-garnir beaucoup!-trimmed lotsi-that
Is the watchword, monsieur! 1t will not be
a mode entirely natural to the Parisienne
of the day. but will please by novelty.
You can call 1t a Renaissance of 1850 cor
rected by modern taste"
"Of course, you know what you are going
to give, madame" said, coming back to
the old subject. But suppose the other
great houses give something just the con-
trary?'
"They WON'T said madame.
Then the mode is in some occul. way
endemic around the rue Royale?'
mo. the mode is not general. Each house
makes its mode"
Madame 1 said two years ago sleeves
swelled below. Suddenly-not gradually
they mounted, swelling at the shoulders.
Who did that?'
I'VE had a customer who dressed de-
ltcfously and did us much credit, but on
whom low sleeves went ill-she looked like
a weeping willow! So we made a little
short and high sleeve for her, and every
body liked it. Now they are coming down
again and short. IL we can make them ac-
ceptcd in winter"
But suppose the other houses are against
your new mode?" / asked for a last time.
1.-The public Of elegant women always de-
cides: and good house never exaggerates.
Short sleeves are for the young. They also
make woman look young But in gen.
eral, We cannot impose a thing a woman
will not have"
"And in conflicts Of new modes?"
Il repeat, the customers will compare
Then 1t Is the customers who really
make the new styles?'
No" laughed madame; at Is the tenn
perature! When sleeves are very long and
big they are not practical for winter. be-
cause of the difficulty of pulling jaquettes
and coats over them"
"But short sleoves ought to be cold in
winter" objected.
Think how well they go with muffsl
laughed madame. STERLING HEILIG.