The mirror. (Stillwater, Minn.) 1894-1925, 1906-02-08

Part |. American
~
IT'S RATHER prosaic to write about
eating. And when such writing is
perpetrated by man in prison, the
culprit makes of himself martyr,
and of his fellow prisoners victims of
suffering and craving for the unattain-
able. But eating is part of the science
of sociology, and for it's sake we make
the sacrifice.
The great city on the Hudson has
long ago disrobed herself of the cloak
of fAmericanism. She has become ultra
cosmopolitan. While she contains in
her limits all that many people prize
highest in the matter of American
wealth, commerce, literature, art,
amusements-and the scream" of our
famous money aristocracy-s has
also become the sewer into which
Europe unloads her surplus of poverty,
misery, and political and social discon-
tention. Fortunately for our country,
the imported refuse quickly sheds the
clothes, manners and views with which
it entered on our hospitable shores, and
gradually develops into a thing of
cleanliness, usefulness and prosperity.
While it becomes Americanized in one
sense of the word, it frequently retains
for generations the peculiarities and
habits of its native country; at least in
such parts of the great city, as have
been settled predominantly by distinct
nationalities and races.
The places in which New York eats
outside of the homes-convey an OBJ
ject lesson in regard to the mode of
living, customs and preferences of
Americans and foreigners, that is as
interesting as it is instructive.
In respect to New York's famous
and exclusive culinary establishments
of which the St. Regis, the Astor
Sherry, Delmonico, the Waldorf.
Astoria, and few others, are the best
known representatives, fair insight
may be attained by visit to the
realms of the steward and of the chef
People to whom money is no object
make excessive demands; and it is in
the first place the steward, whose prin'
cipal business it is to cater to such de-
mands. These demands are for tht
best there is in America-in the world
The steward of one of New York'l
principal establishments employs thret
expert buyers in Europe. These hav'
to see to it that the pates de fois graz
are furnished by the most renowned
producers in Strassburg; that the truf
fles come from the woods of Perichon
the sardines and olive oil from Nantes
the caviar from Astrachan, etc., etc
This does not refer solely to high
priced delicacies, but to everything
The table linen comes from Silesla AM
Ireland; china and cut-glass iron
Sevres, Meissen and Bohemia. Thi
steward imports every year 1900 barrel
of small potatoes from Germany, jus
because these make the best potat
salad. So it is in everything. The bes
asparagus comes from Brunswick; th
best sprouts from Brussels; the ham
(for raw serving) from Holstein an
Westphalia; and for orders for frie
bacon the excellent 'razor back" ham
of Smlthfield, Va, are used. Thi
steward has made twenty years Col
tract with the man in Vermont wh
received the first prize for maple syru
at the Chicago Worlds Fair. 1t
only maple syrup, but it proves tt
stewards intention to give only tt
very best. These are but few exam
pies, but they will suffice to convey q
idea Of the pains that are being take
in such establishments.
The procurement of good wines
much more difficult. The Englil
custom of using heavy wines, such
Port, Sherry and Madeira with Dime
and suppers, has long since been di
continued in New York. The demar
is now for Rhine and Moselle wi
fish; for Bordeaux and Burgundy wi
meats; for Champagne with dessel
and for Cognsc or green Chartreu
with aune petite tasse de cafe moi
al sfssls NJ ss &