Omaha daily bee., 1906-09-30
CLIMBING MOUNT MKINLEY
Loftiest Peak of North America
BaIlks the Efforts of Ex-
pIOrerA.

DR.. Herschel c. Parker, of Columbia uni |
versity, who was DR.. Cooks companion |
during large part of the summer, tells an !
interesting story about their explorations |
in Alaska. 1t forcibly illustrates the re- !
semblance between such an undertaking |
as trying to reach the summit Of Mount |
Mckinley and military campaign. |
Neither can well succeed until there have
been extensive reconnoissances. No gen.
eral hopes for victory unless he has in
formed himself as fully as possible regard
ing the strong and weak points Of his
enemys position, the various routes Of APP
proach, and the possibilities of subsistence
for man and beast along the way. A con-
siderable amount of information about the
chief mountain range of Alaska and the
surrounding wilderness has been acquired
within the last five years, but according
to Dr. Parker neither he nor DIR. Cook had
any intention of attempting the ascent of
Mount Mckinley this season. They de-
voted themselves exclusively to studying
| the ground and DIR. Cook was still so en-
ployed when his companion left him few
weeks ago Much that they have learned
is discouraging. but 1t will enable them TO
direct their efforts more wisely in the fu-
ture than has been possible In the past.
DR.. Alfred II. Books. who was sent to the.
region by the United States Geological sur
! vey in 1902. studied its topography prl-
/ marily In the interest OF the government,
1ut he offered a number of suggestions
which were designed to help explorers who
should try to reach the summit OF Mount
Mckinley. When DIR. Cook went to Alaska
the following year he made a long and tor
tuous journey to the northwestern base of
| the peak, but made no direct assault from
| that quarter. The western face was ap-
parently impregnable, as IL presented pre-
cipitous granite cliff several thousand feet
high. After many delays an attempt was
made on what appeared to be a ridge sep
| arated by a glacier from the mountain
proper BY detour DIR. Cook was able TO
reach the surface Of the glacier itself, and
there he was confronted with another ver-
tical wall of granite. Abandoning the
southwestern side as hopeless. the explorer
made hasty circuit around by the north
to the east OF the range His scrutiny
there satisfied him that It would be a waste
Of time and strength to make trial from
that side, and then he hurried to the coast
before cold weather should make him a
prisoner.
This years work included a fresh inspec-
tion OF the southwestern face of Mount
Mckinley and a study OF the mountain
from the south and southeast observa-
| tions were made from the tops OF adjacent
mountains. which afforded exceptional ia
cilities for such surveys. and the result
was to convince DIR. Cook and DR.. Parker
Of the hopelessness OF further effort in the
region to which they gave their chief at
tention. The only remaining chance is now
| believed TO be afforded on the northwestern
side OF the mountain. This chance is con-
sidered small, but is not to be rejected
without fuller investigation, and II will
furnish the incentive and guide TO next
seasons operations. DIR. Cook remarked
three years ago that in inaccessibility,
arctic environment and steepness combined
Mount Mckinley was without an equal
anywhere in the world. II grows increas
ingly doubtful every year If man will ever
set foot on its summit unless he uses
flying machine. but at least one more effort
will be made to get there by old-fashioned
methods.
Although both Dr. Cook ana his associate
have had much experience In mountain