Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-22
PARE5 TA5IION
SHOW HINTS or
AUTUMN ,SNLLS
III SUMNER FpOCKS
"a

- AME FASHION demands Of her
loyal followers this season such
Il attention to detail that the very
III simplest gown must be studied
over ard most carefully planned.
In order that there shall not be
even the mereat trihe OF trimming
or color that is not in accord. If the en-
pire or princess style is chosen. then-al-
though, OF course. there may be considera-
BILE modifying of the modeI-it must not be
In any manner changed. There may be con-
trasts Of color; II so. they must be most
carefully studied. so that there may be the
desired contrast but no clashing, and If the
one tone color scheme is chosen, then It.
too. must be most systematically carried
out through countless gradations of
shading.
Fortunately there are so many distinctly
novel fashions this year that. after a few
trials at securing the desired harmonious
effect, It is possible to gain the mastery
and the eye soon becomes trained In the
selection OF materials. styles and colors
that are all In keeping, and. In fact, the
majority Of women are far better dressed
than they have been for many years, show
ing that the study of dress is by no means
an ignoble pursuit.
The question OF belts, girdles and sashes
is a momentous one and, unfortunately,
many women who have a good eye for
color and who understand the art of being
well gowned do not always understand
their own figures in so far as choosing what
Is becoming in the way of belt, sash or
girdle and often the effect of a charmingly
attractive gown Is completely spoiled by
this fault Surely there never was time
when corset makers showed the skill they
now display, and such superhuman efforts
as are made and generally crowned with
success, TO do away with too much avoirdu-
pos or to add flesh when nature has de-
MED It. 1t Is nothing short of marvellous TO
notice how absolutely different in appear
ence two women will look whose weight is
precisely the same. One with tll-htting cor
set or gown badly made-although in itself
handsome-and belt that is either too
wide OF too narrow will look years older
and pounds heavier than a woman of exact
ly the same weight and age, simply be-
cause the latter has good-htting corset
her gown fits her and her belt is so adjust
ed 10 define the good lines OF her ngure or
20 conceal the bad ones.
~
Il the princess gown becoming to every
one? is a question. An artist of a dress
maker can work wonders every one knows
but with the waist and skirt the belt can 'oe
depended upon TO give more sharply de-
fined line that is more generally becoming.
AT the moment princess gowns are unques-
tIOuably extremely smart, out Lflere are
many more OF them now with belts and CIR
dies than were worn last season. and there
are constantly appearing new designs, all OF
which are novel and very smart also.
Whether the wide bodices and girdles
are generally becoming Is another much
discussed question To slender figures they
would seem always.to be, at least so thinks
the stout woman, but care has to be taken
that the bodice is not too high and too
even all around. for then all trace of figure
is lost as such belt is apt to be rather
shapeless II a stout woman essays SUCH a
belt, It can be made becoming II the lines
are well arranged. so that the belt is much
higher and wider at the back than in front,
and this without its being on the same old
pattern that so sharply defined the straight
front last season Taneta silk or satin on
the bias makes the most becoming belts.
and II can be drawn more tightly around
the waist. thus giving a smaller waist line.
II is becoming more fashionable all the
time-the round waist line rather than
pointed-so tbs said, and yet here again In
divldual taste may be exercised, for there
are any number OF very pointed belts to be
seen.
A clever way OF making the waist seem
smaller and the figure more slender is
shown In the newest shapes OF corsets and
waists. cut that there is as much curve
in as possible directly at the back and sides.
When this is successfully accomplished the
number Of inches required in the belt is not
so noticeable, and Just a round waist
looks much the smallest. so this curved-in
line at the back and sides breaks the line
OF the belt In more becoming fashion.
The corselet skirt worn with short bo-