Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-21

wearing material. the chiffon cloth, just
little heavier. does not so soon become
tumbled or mussed. 1t Is a becoming fab
rc also-a point worthy of consideration,
for some most attractive materials are not
becoming, being too hard and crude, as 1t
were. Cloth bands. bretelles in the new
order and the high bodice carry the ma
terial of the skirt far enough in the waist
to make it all seem in keeping with the
skirt.
Embroidered velvet bands are favorite
trimming this winter, and when cloth
skirt Is trimmed with them the same de-
sign is used on the waist, but with an edge
of the cloth showing just outside the vel
vet in order to make the waist seem part
of the skirt. Braiding on the skirt is re-
peated on the waist in the same design,
but in narrower bands-in fact, every eff
fort is made. as has been said, to keep all
on the lines.
Lace on waists is so becoming that it is
not remarkable the fashion continues pop
ular. All kinds of laces are used, and often
two or three are combined, the thinner or
more transparent for yoke and stock col
lar; the heavier for bolero, or straight
bands of trimming. The heaviest of laces
broidered to make them seem, If possible,
more ornate and expensive but among the
great variety there are to choose from 1t
is quite possible for the simplest, most con-
sentative taste to select what Is desired.
Jet beads and beads in all colors are sewn
into lace, giving a spangled effect. Just
little touch of this trimming Is charming,
but II too much is used it is garish and
vulgar.
Lingerie and lace waists to be worn with
coats and skirts are all in the most elab-
crate designs, while the hand work seems
to be finer than ever. The fashionable
woman of today, to whom expense is no
consideration, demands the finest work of
all kinds. and there Is no end of rivalry
over the hand-embroidered lingerie blouses,
the great aim and effort being to possess
that ia finer and extensive.
than any one else has. Lace waists are
made over boned and fitted Innings and look
what they are-part Of the cloth costume.
Most of the newer fashions have a sleeve
less or short sleeve blouse effect. This ne
cessitates a CAMP with sleeves, and 1t has
been tried and found essential to have this
same CAMP puch like separate waist
complete in itself Entre-deux of fine hand
embroidery and lace. or all lace and of the
finest quality, is used in the construction
of these waists, which are most carefully
fashioned and fit to perfection. Chiffon
waists have lace straps or bolero, and it Is
remarkable how many different effects are
obtained with precisely the same materials.
Phariet chiffon and lace bolero are not
new combination surely, and yet they find
just much favor as ever.
The fad for the introduction Of some con-
trasting color finds here opportunity
also. and 1t is marvellous how effective just
embroidery is against the chiffon and lace.
Not too much. just the veriest trifie,
mite of color and contrast. is needed to
give required individuality.
To advocate any scheme of color to the
majority of women is almost a rash under
taking, or would have been a few years
ago when the science of clothes was not SO
we'll understood as now. but women in gen.
eral have learned more of colors and how
they should be combined. and the result
now is far different. Too garish and glar-
ing effects are not rashly attempted while
SO often embroideries can be bought in
which different colors are most charmingly
and artistically combined. The effect of
these can be tried on the background of
the material. and before the decision is
made the result can be studied.
A waist of cream chiffon, with bolero of
heavy lace of deeper shade. can have
| touch of brown and gold If the costume be
of brown cloth or velvet, and just an edge
of pink, blue or yellow can be introduced
in the front or collar. and the effect is
charming.
That the empire and princess styles are
In fashion there is no question, but 1t does
not follow that other styles as well are
not to be worn. In fact. there is quite
discussion to whether the skirt and
coat with fancy waist trimmed to match
If not of the same material are not every
bit fashionable as they ever were. Ger
tainly the great variety of styles in which
they can be made seems conclusive proof