The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-03-25
WINES AT THE MODISH DINNER.
OFTEN ONLY ONE rs SERVED;
FIVE THE LIMIT.
Decanting OF still wines Advised-The
Proper Temperature and h Glasses
Order OF Serving Wines-ChOice OF
Two or Three COrdiaIs With the COHee.

apparent in the manner Of serving and Sc
Letting wines as they are anywhere else.
Tastes change gastronomically as well as
artistically.
At most informal dinners only one or two
wines are served and at many formal
ones it is not to serve but three,
sherry, claret and champagne. Claret is
very often served at the same time as the
champagne, as many people drink nothing
but this light wine.
When only O single wine Ia served 1t should
be the best obtainable, such as Chateau
Ia Rose IL a claret is used and Chateau
Youem IL a sauterne. In that case also 1t Is
A good plan to nave a cordial with the cof-
fee.
All still wines should be decanted before
using. say good authorities. While 1t Is a
simple enough thing to do 1t Is too often
rarelessly done, with results unsatisfactory
anl Notifying to a hostess.
Before ~decanting, the bottle Of wine
should stand upright for not less than
twenty-four hours, the cork having first
been loosened. Then about an hour be-
fore using the cork should be drawn en-
tirely out, so carefully that 40 disturbance
Of the precipitation is possible. The bottle
should be held against a light, either day
light or a candle, and the instant the sedi-
ment begins to stir the pouring from bottle
70 decanter should cease. This careful
handling of the wine will insure its being
clear and bright when served.
1t is a fad with some people to pour old
wines directly from the bottle, 90 that
guests will appreciate what they are drink
Ing, but this Is not advisable; wines old In
bottle will always form q great deal Of de-
post and this when shaken up will injure
not only the appearance but the taste Of
the wine as well. If a hosts wine will not
stand d~ecanting he would better not serve
II at all.
Neither claret nor Burgundy contains
sufficient alcohol to keep it's flavor much
longer. than twenty-four hours after de-
canting. They both become sour, and
what is left in the decanter should be thro wn
away or put into the vinegar jug. Fortified
wines such as sherry, port, Madeira and
Tokay will keep indefinitely. but it 10 far
better to decant only about the quantity
TO be used Of the lighter wines, those whose
percentage Of alcohol is not great enough
10 insure the retention Of their flavor after
exposure to the air.
Claret and Burgundy should be served
at q temperature from IS to 10 degrees,
which temperature Is obtained by keeping
the bottle in q room a little warmer for
six or eight hours before serving. some
people make II a rule to set the wine on the
sideboard for a few hours before dinner
time, but as all dining rooms should be
Thoroughly cooled before dinner is served,
this 10 not a good plan; wine will not stand
sudden changes Of temperature.
All wines keep better when stored In an
eyen temperature. Champagnes and white
wines must be kept in a coolor place than
others; IL too warm they are apt TO ferrnent.
Madeira, sherry, DO, are better the warmer
they are kept; their flavor is enriched
Much depends upon the treatment a
wine receives before serving. Often a
really good wine does not taste 90 well az
Of Improper treatment before 1t is served.
Port should be served not colder than
90 degrees, unless served with crushed
ice, which in summer Is a delicious drink
and a rare treat. Sherry Is best at a tenn
p~erature OF 40 degrees, obtained by cooling
it in the ice box for an hour before using;
II kept too cold both port and sherry will
cloud.
Madeira and Tokay should be served at
about a temperature OF % degrees at leasi'
Brut champagne must be thoroughly chilled,
but not at too low a temperature. or 1T
will be acid and harsh to the taste. Frozen,
it 10 u~ndrinkable; whereas the sweet brands
OF champagne are'more delicious the nearer
70 freezing they are. asa
All champagne requires chilling before
the cork is drawn, no matter for what pur-
pose it is to be used. 1t makes all the diff
ference in the world in its taste, even in
punch. Sauternes and all white wines
should be cooled to between 40 degrees and
IS degrees, but not chilled,
If but one wine is considered sufficient
for a dinner and it is to be a champagne,
let it be dry, as the sweet brands are not
alone. The wine is poured just after the
fish is served, and continues through the
entire dinner, including desserts.
The selection of a champagne glass is
largely a matter of taste, though the most
attractive shape, in no matter what stvle
Of glass or decoration, is the saucer shape
with the hollow stem. The wine con-
stantly bubbling up from the stem not only
makes a pretty effect, but is kept more lively
by the efervescence and does not become
fat if it stands a while.
The champaign tumbler Is entirely a thing
Of the past, though there have been some
strenuous efforts Of late to revive ls use.
1t is decidedly not a graceful glass; nor so
dainty in effect as the saucer.
II olaret Ia the one wine at dinner, it is
served with the course next after the flsh,
whatever it may be. Claret is too acid to
go well with sea food Of any description.
wine at a dinner have departed along With
the time when men felt they, offered their
host an insult if they we're ablet to maintain
the perpendicular when saying good night
after having dlned with MIN, put ideHon
to-day, nevertheless, places her seal OF
approval upon as many as five wines.
Fortunately for the sobriety OF the COM
pany, it is no longer good form to serve a
cocktail before dinner if there are to be
more wines than one during IL.
All OF the wine glasses to be used at Inner.
exclusive Of the liqueur glasses. should be
arranged in order when the table is set,
and II possible should match, or at least
be similar in general character and style.
For instance, II cut glass is used, all the
glasses should be Of cut glass, not neces-
sarily Of the same pattern, but OF the same
type.
At an elaborate dinner with several wines
the order followed In smart houses is as
follows: White wine, such as Rhine, Mo-
selle, sauterne or white Burgundy, with
oysters, OF whatever the first course may
be. These wines are to be served in a glass
about the size Of a olaret glass. A claret
glass will do, though it is better TO have
some distinction, such as a delicate color
ing or a difference in shape.
Either sherry or Madeira is served with
soup, sherry in a glass that has a lily
shaped bowl, slender stem n round base.
The sherry should be light and cool. IL
Madeira is used instead OF sherry it should
be very fine and served in a glass like a
claret glass in shape but smaller.
Nh n do ne lar ~ ~ 0rA 10 nrNgn NTH