Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-15
AUTUMN ACCESSORIES
First Suits Show No FREEDOM
mating Style.
MATERIALS OF STOUT WOOL
Fine-Stitched Bands Form the Latest
Trimming.
ECCENTRICITY THE PASSWORD
Diaphanous Toilets With Chic jack
cts and Capes to Be Carried Far
Into Cold Winter.
MATERIALS OF STOUT WOOL
ECCENTRICITY THE PASSWORD
Special Correspondence of The Star.

NEW YORK, September 10, 1906.
- varied are the first autumn styles
that 1t is impossible to tell which
special one is to the fore. Coats of
every sort form part of costumes
the long coat, the coat of medium
length and the one so short that 1t Is
called by courtesy "coatee."
The newest of the longer ones strive for
close or half fits. but the shorter these gar
ments are the loosen they are apt to be. In
fact graceful. easy drop from the shout
ders is the only thing for Jacket that
strikes the waist line or falls far short of
st, and with such dresslness go elbow
sleeves of incalculable smartness. The me-
dunn length and three-quarter fitted coats
are displayed generally by gowns in stout
materials for practical wear Sleeves of
these are for the most part sensible. in the
form generally Of medium-sized three
quarter bishop or in long gigots of tailor
smallness.
Sometimes a daring cut crosses the skirt
OF the coat at the hips. with heavy strap
seam, which effects a smartly slim look on
the right figure. With such a gown. as the
raised seams are highly ornamental. there
Is only touch of velvet on the coat.
Herringbone, serge, cloth. flannel cheviot,
tweed and other stout wool stuffS Of I'M
namable nature are the materials of these
frocks whose skirts are generally plain
ana run 10 a imp Iall. II there ID d
trimming ON other tailor gowns it is of the
plainest description, fat stitched bands,
braids or a Vandyke decking at the seams.
Altogether. the smart walking frock Is,
"a usual, a very simple garment, and 1t VIII
take the expert to differentiate some Of It's
expressions from former styles. A tiny
change in the cut here, little more smart
ness in the way of vests. and there is the
mannish frock of two seasons ago in its
new autumn guise.
~ ii 1,k -
The hats which accompany them. are
smarter than formerly, few of the austere.
ready-to-wear description being seen Still.
there is look of tailor compactness here,
too. for velvet. birds. wings. quilts. etc, are
put on with that measured primness which
might be called tailorfied. But elaborate
and unusual shapes are seen, and since all
good hats are milliner-made nowadays the
headpiece for a simple gown Is often an ex-
pensiye trifie. .
brims folded up. thus looping. tying and
bending, from chic turbans and jaunty tri-
cornes or odd models, which can have no
title other than the modiste chooses TO give.
For 1t Is the individual head which must
be worked upon IN all cases. and however
smart a chapeau 1t has no reason deter II
IL II does not seem part OF the mead IL
crowns. Perhaps of all others the smallish
jaunty folded hat Is the one par excellence
for the tailor costume.
To return to these, in the smarter styles
are observed many species of vests, some
OF which take to lovely embroideries with
@ touch of sparkling tinsel These may be-
gay the most somber materials-thick stuns
In black, brown. gray or what not. The
vest needlework is In Turkish, Indian or
Chinese genre, with bold denominations of
black. and touches OF brilliant color. New
hues for gowns include some rich deep
blues. among which are army and Gobelin
blue. Soft novel shades of brown are also
seen, every change imaginable is rung on
gray, and shade of purple hinges on the
Swallowed darkness of Concord grapes. This
last color Is much exploited by one French
maker of note. who sends over several be-
wildering toiletes in this tint.
Coat Gown Of Concord.
One coat gown of drap Francois In the
deep purple. which might. by the way, be
called Concord, displayed trimmings Of
white silk embroidered In purple and sill
yer. These formed a novel empiecement
for the yoke of the little box-plaited coat
the yoke running down to form a narrow
vest.
There were also deep. upturned cuffs Of
the purple and silver embroidery for very
short sleeves In single pun Topped high
at the inside seam The high belt was
made of silver tissue and purple velvet
while the long skirt which hung In compii-
Gated pleats was otherwise untrimmed.
A gown OF white cloth showed a mag
nihcent embroidery of purple grapes in
color as well az q most cunning mingling
with violet cloth On the skirt this formed
o deep foot border. which was Joined to
the white portion with Q sprawling band