The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-12-02
PAYING FOR THE NAME TAG.
FAMOUS LABELS ADD MUCH TO
THE COST OF CLOTHES.
chic IN ects In Hats Cheap save to the Cuss
Omer An Insight Into the Pronts 0f
Jew oilers Range of Prices fer Re-
setting Gems In Rings from $40 20 90.

WV
A famous Paris gown builder rave notice
recently that he had changed the color OF
the belt tag inserted in all garments that
came ron his establishment. as rival des lers
had initiated the tag. wishing TO give prestige
to their wares.
There is no doubt about the Importance
Of the name tag. For many years solne
women a w made IL "a practice to rip the
name stamped Inning from a cheap hat or
ooat and substitute an old lining from some
we'll wn shop, 30 that their friends might
not discover that they dealt at low priced
shops.
how much buyers really gain when they
soorn the cheaper shop and 60 to u great
establishment in a Fashionable part OF town
u a question nowadays. There h no doubt
that they pay we'll for the tag, and secure a
certain prest ice aIrong those Who observe
that they get their clothes from the test
dealers in town.
But this kind Of reputation used to mean
. great deal more than il does to-day, when
factory made garments are turned out by
the thousand fully equalling many hand
made pruduots and when competition has
forced ssnsll dealers TO put the test they can
ohoE Oh the COuUteItt low TtLts cttutlLh&
them to dispense with heavy Profits.
There ia comparatively little Of the shoddy
clothing on the market to-day that used
TO be sold and the gaudy imitation wares
Of a quarter Of a century z find no market
10 II a buyer has the courage to 60 10 a small
chop for certain lines Of goods he is likely
70 he rewarded by getting the same quality
he would pay double for in "A fine street.
The extent to which people pay for he
smart label on many If the articles classed
as ~luxuries IL nev ertheless appreciated.
OF course there are a great many people
who prefer to pay he additional price and
to trade at the big shop. They % rather
pay rs cents for an orange in some Of the
iruit stores on Broadway and Fifth avenue
than five cents at a corner stand.
II used TO be tho idea that the best known
place was always the cheapest in the end,
even though the prices asked were higher.
but things have changed in recent years.
Women discovered this first in regard to
the severely plain two piece tailor gowns.
for the making OF which they paid as much
as $50 IA few years ago.
Prices have grown less for these gowns
even At the smart tailoTs'. for they we're
forced down by the department stores.
where better values were offered and fire.
quently the very same workmanship. In
addition skilled workmen Of the tailors,
realizing the situation. set up small shops
and solicited orders from the very Gus
toners they had served on Fifth avenue.
They were able to supply the same gowns
at prices far below those charged 10y their
former employers.
In the same manner tremendous prices
are asked and obtained for hats at famous
establishments. Women suppose they are
paying not for the value offered In silk or
straw or feathers but for the chic arrange
ment Of the rOse,te bows, the droop u the
lace and the general originality Of the hat.
This originality and this style come from
n week or less produces the effects that make
madame famous.
OF course in some wares much depends
on the integrity Of the dealer. Furs and
jewelry are two articles tina most people
are extremely cautious about purchasing,
and in no other line If manufactures per-
hape do people pay so much for the name
tag. Yet the furs and the jewels come in
many instances from small establishments
where there is no show and no label.
jewellers Of reputation are able to charge
great prices. as they handle articles 81
enormous value for sale. repairs and for
storage. Women especially are nervous
about letting gems go into the hands Of any
firm not well known. fearing substitution
and injury 60 their jewels
Awoma who recently made a tour Of the
welry shops to obtain estimates Of the
cost OF resetting the gems in somo old fash
toned rings gathered a fund of information
ss to the prices that are paid for name tags
IN this line Of work. az all events.
Passing a very fashionable shop she saw
in the window a collection az art aoUrerW
rings. The designs were odd enough to he
ugly In many cases. They show ch lizards,
frogs and snakes Of gold with gemned eyeo
. nc bodies, the body part being carried
about the finger, forming the ring.
There were mermaids and Venuses. devils
and death heads. cupids and fairies, the en-
tire ring being utilized to show the design,
and diamonds being used in odd combina-
tions with other gems. The rings might
20 most persons seem suited rather tor a GU
rio cabinet than tor personal " ear.
Entering the shop she asked TO see the
rings. and then inquired about the cost Of
having her jew els reset in some Of these de-
signs. She rather liked a dragon ring with
a single diamond in his mouth and q sphinx
with one upon her brow both made OF gold.
co!ored to look like bronze.
Tho salesman said that the best thing 10 do
was for the customer to bring the gems. and
the artist Of the establishment would submit
sketches Of designs in which they could be
used. AZ TO price everything was vague,
shadowy and magnificent. In those thing
90 much had to be left with the artist. APP
parently. you were to give him your gems
and then let him go to the limit OF his ex-
travsgant fancy.
Being pinned down to figures. the clerk
admitted that the dragon ring, for instance.
at very low est estimate would be from SEQ
70 500. as It was a carved ring and called for
the finest workmanship. The mermaids
were $50, and the sphinx would be about the
same.
The woman went down the street TO an
other famous place, and then frankly ex-
planned that the prices asked at the first
shop ere too high to suit her. and sire asked
II the work could not be lone less cxren-
sively.
Here the clerk took ont n trov TL.ra