The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-08-18

"smaIl BelOngings.'
 One does not expect any startling change in the trend of fashion at this particular season of midsummer, but Madame Modes votaries always manage about this time to give her ideas some little twist or turn of theiI one that forestalls any possibility of monotony.
 The White and gold fad, for example originated with a tall, yellow-haired girl from the South, who is enjoying hugely her first season at Newport. She appeared one night at a dinner dance ill a f1lmy, cream white mousseline de soie much betrimmed with narrow lace and set off with a deep, draped girdle of web gold stuff, which also formed a shield in the neck. It was as fine an example of elegant simplicity as one could hope to see,, and took wonder fully.
 Now, if you would be quite commecil faut, you will have touch of gold, CT at least yellow, about even your simp- lest white frock-which, if you happen to be of the blonde type, you will find peculiarly becoming.
 Another quip of the original young woman of fashion is the flower broch, the wearing of single flower, prefer ably q rose-although a flower of any other name would do as well-at the throat, in place of the brooch. Of course, this blossom is treated to some sort of a solution-grumarabic believe to keep 1t fresh during an evening; and when it forms the only note of color about a costume the effect is striking ly pretty.
 After the rage for white comes the lad or cool contrasts, and oftentimes a costume will combine three or four or even six or seven different colors, all So cleveriy blended as to form the conn- pletest harmony. Such a. one has just arrived in large order from Berlin. A very deep cream -colored net dotted, is cut in seven gores, very narrow at the top, so that the skirt fits perfectly over the hips, and very wide and far ing at the bottom, where 1t is finished with scallops and given serpentine heading to simulate flounce Each seam Is covered with lace applique, in which several shades of yellow and brown thread are shown, and at each point of the flounce there is a chou made of pink and green bebe-velvet rib bon. The foundation skirt is of ecru silk, just a trifle darker than the nf oot oy11 tLtc io three-inch ruffles bordered by, the low CT green, and the upper a soft brown frill of satin, over which the points of the over-dress spread in the most grace full manner.
 All of these colors and shades are car ried out in the bodice, which, strange as 1t may seem, fastens in front under a mass of lace and half-hidden knots of velvet. It all sounds very elaborate and very complicated, but clever mind delft fingers, and a soupcon of patience might evolve the design from a last seasons gown aided by the piece-bag.
 Scarcely anything but members of the linen family, or at least, wash materials are being worn for street and morning gowns and the heavy skirt and lingerie waist seems to have fallen beneath the hammer of the artist-writer, whose sen- sitive soul was jared by it's unfltness.
 In foreign watering places, however. this separate waist Is still extremely well-liked although the skirt with which it is worn usually shows very strong note of harmony even if it is not of its own color.
 Very smart are the smooth brown linen skirts cut en princesse, topped with round waists of net made simply with a yoke of insertion bands and with an embroidered linen girdle or per- haps one of dull blue silk to finish 1t. OOftener than not the skirts have saunty boleros, mantles ar pony coats to go with them, for it is rumored that we are to wear our lovely summer toggery later on in the sason this year than Is customary, and in an- ticipation the fractious Lady Mode has invented all manner of odd little wraps to be thrown over them on cool septem- Der days
 Just at first these wraps will be fash toned of cotton and linen stuffs, with an occasional silk, but later on they will be duplicated in taffetas, broad- cloths, and, in fact, almost any mater ial will lend itself very adaptably to one or another of the different modes.
 Smartest of all are the little topcoats, very short over the hips, trife longe In the back and trifle longer in the back and a trife longer still in the front. They have double revers, the under one of velvet or silk, short sleeves with three-inch turned-back cuffs and either brass or smoked pearl buttons of quite magnificent size.
 The old-fashioned dolman has been revived and is here In all it's pristine glory, as shapeless and ungraceful as ever. Suited they might have been to the Turkish men with whom they orlgi- mated, but not at all to the well-formed. woman of good carriage with no defects to conceal.
 Also, we have the pelerine, fringe and all. Made up in pretty colored silks or fin black or white, with gayly colored borders, as many of them are, they sug- gest the most delightful cobing jackets.
 Seriously, 1t does seem rather a pity that our straight, flne-figured woman who can tramp all day over an eighteen hole golf course and dance till the "wee sma' hours" without fatigue, should wrap herself in one of these shapeles pieces of material But perhaps when the new wears off we shall look upon