The San Francisco call., 1906-09-16

UMMER evening gowns always
seem 70 be more attractive than
winter ones, though they are
often composed OF exactly the
same materials. and show very little
contrast Just now there is little differ
ence IN the clothes that are designed
for winter and summer wear. and the
woman who goes about IN the fashion
able world requires very much the
same sort OF evening gowns in summer
that she does IN winter. Fashion de-
mands. however, that there be some
Distinguishing feature IN the gown in
tended for one or the other II these
seasons The term evening gown In
cludes gowns that are suitable for
dances and for dinners; that is. formal
dinners, not those given in restaurants
or public places where the high neck
waist is obligatory.
The fsvorite summer gown is essen
daily simple, although there is no limit
10 the expense that can be lavished
upon it Lace plays an important part
among trimmings this season, and all
kinds and varieties are used. Entire
lace gowns are as much in demand as
ever. Those made entirely OF one kind,
such as Cluny, Irish or Valenciennes,
are still IN high favor. while an un-
usual effect is gained by combining
two different kinds Of lace Of different
weave and pattern For instance.
Cluny or Irish lace can be combined
with Valenciennes or some one OF the
finer mesh laces. This makes more
variety and likewise more expense.
Then there are the so-cslled lace gowns
that are made OF lace entire deux com
bined with chiffon, fine null or lawn.
There IS, il must be admitted, far less
- . al IN crT0h
com bination,- and the material can be
either plain. embroidered or run in fine
hand tucks. One very charming effect
IS gained by the insertion OF lace two
and q half inches in width. bordered
on each side with z narrow edge OF
Vslencfennes lace put on rather full.
50 that Il stands up Cluny lace is
exquisite when made up with batiste
ia long lines. with q wide, circular
founce trimmed also with the lace in
sertion and finished with a rufie OF
the same.
Slips Must Fit Perfectly.
great deal depends upon how the
lining for q lace gown is made. With
q good fitting princess style OF slip
made Of silk il is possible TO have sew
<eral lace or muslin gowns TO wear
over IT, and al the same time II one
owns three or four Of these silk slips
OF different colors one may have quite
q variety Of gowns, with only one OF
all lace. Colored Innings are fashion
able while all white is more TO the
fore this summer than IL has been
for several seasons. One point to be
remembered about these silk slips is
that they should be trimmed around
the foot with one deep fiounce having
several small rufhes on the hounce.
These rufies may be OF either silk or
lace.
r7-f,oess and er,nsre dresses ara tba
favorite ones OF the moment, and IN
doubtediy they viii continue to reign
for some time TO come The most at
trsctive gowns made in this style are
generally modified in such way that
the eccentric features OF these very
pronounced styles are not too striking.
The best examples OF the princess
styles seen for some time are now be-
ing displayed They are not exagger-
sted and the severe lines are softened
in the upper part Of the waist by the
way the trimming is applied and by
p decided mare 10 the foot Of the skirt.
A princess gown that fits too closely
does not look well even on the very
slightest figure, as it has tendency
10 exaggerate any existing defects.
Empire styles. too, have undergone
1nodidcstions and are no longer &c
centric. especially when made in lace
and thin materials and worn over a
princess slip. In this way the gown
hangs loose from the lining, and really
indicates rather than follows the lines
Of the original design It is fashion
that permits Of the use OF such su-
perb embroidery and lace that at the
present moment, when there is such a
craze for embroideries OF all sorts. its
popularity is not to be wondered at
The broad band across the bust may
be OF velvet, silk or lace, and this forms
background for the finest French
work
Painted Chiffon IN Vogue.
Hand painted chiffon combined with
plain chiffon is much worn this sea-
son FOR evening, and there are some
unusual combinations Of colors seen. A
very faint shade OF tan chiffon is
trimmed with bands OF the lowered
effect put on IN long lines from should
er 10 hem The gown belongs TO the
princess variety, so that with these
bands the lines Of the figure are de-
hned most becomingly and a slender
waist made to look even more slender
Plain chiffon may be either made up
as il is or tucked. In either case the
foot OF the skirt should be Ornamented
with many rufies Of the 1owered ia
brio. A pale mauve with q pattern OF
pale blue morning glories in painted
bands is exquisite in coloring, very
light and dainty. In blue chiffon, with
the bands in pattern OF pink roses,
such gown would be enchanting.
Pale gray chiffon made up with flow
cred chiffon and bands OF lace is also
a favOrite combination for a summer
evening gown. The gray should be a
very light shade. and besides the bands
OF lace there should be -numberless
small ruf1es edged with narrow Valen-
ciennes lace. Like all thin fabrics.
chiffon seems especially appropriate
for sumner gown. and in spite OF
the countless searSns IN which IL has