Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-30

itself. does not fit as tightly as the lining.
but it follows the lines precisely in front,
and at the sides 1t fits almost as closely, say
as close in front and perhaps not quite so
| close at the sides. In the back there is
more fullness. and there is more than
| suspicion of the old-time Vatican pleat eff
| feet. This, when carefully managed, is
| graceful, but If there is too much of the old
| fashioned Vatican pleat effect 1t is ex-
| tremey ugly.
For the evening the transparent materials
are all tremendously in demand-the spangle
| gowns jetted nets, hand-painted chiffon
and tulle. All these lend themselves to the
best possible advantage in carrying out the
| desired lines. In cloth-and there are many
| exquisite gowns of cloth made in this model
| the very softest and most pliable weaves
| should be used. because anything that is
| stiff too heavy will entirely obliterate
| any grace of line. Fortunately, in these
! days there are numberless weaves of cloth,
some of them eXquisitely fine and all supple
and useful, for just this sort of gown. The
pastelle shades will be worn again, white is
to be fashionable and there are any number
of most attractive black gowns These black
gowns can be enivened so easily by the en-
broiderles, for an empire gown without en-
broidery is really quite an imposslbllity
The band across the bust or the bolero
jacket which is preferred by many as being
rather softer than the straight band, and
the embroidered band around the skirt both
afford excellent opportunities to display ef-
fectlve embroideries, and 1t is now rather
while gold and silver are tremendously pop
ular. Gold and silver braid and thread have
attained a finish of workmanship that
makes them much more useful than they
We're. They do not tarnish SO easily, and
consequently people do not mind paying
| the large prices that asked.
| The silver and gold thread of olden times
that tarnished almost as quickly as 1t was
put on proved but a sorry investment Tor
| il never was-very cheap. and of course now
there are a great many grades Of silver and
| gold thread and braid that open to the
| same condition, but it is quite possible to
| find them and at ia rly reasonable prices
| and of such good finish as to make them
! quite durable enough. One strong objection
| urged against the empire gown is on ac-
| count of this expensive and noticeable en-
J broidery as well as "a fact that the lines of
| the gown are more or less conspicuous In
| other words, by next season the gown will
| be marked, as it were-known as a last
! seasons model That fact however seems
| TO carry Little weight with the general pub
| lie. Women who do not have to stop to
! consider the cost of their clothes would just
| as soon have a conspicuous gown and not
| wear it after the first year. Women who
do have to count the cost consider 1t good
| Investment to buy noticeably smart gown,
and they contend that 1t would be quite
| possible to remodel it next year-that is,
when they stop to consider anything about 1t.
| There is an immense amount of detail to
| be considered about the empire style of
costume when intended for street or recep-
! fit well and hang Well The color must be
| becoming, effective and not too conspicu-
Gus; the embroideries and laces used must
be handsome: then must needs come in the
question of the wrap and the hat that is in
| keeping. Often an extremely smart gown
| is entirely spoiled by wearing with it a
| wrap that is not suitable and a hat that
| is quite contradictory in fashion, as 1t
were. The women who challenge admira.
| ton by wearing gowns of this style are
| those who have carefully studied the cor
rect style of wrap and hat, and at once
they are said to look well, and the world
at large says the fashion Is charming
one.
AS has been said, the. empire mantles
and scarfs add greatly to the finish of
costume but though beautiful as they are
themselves will not look well II worn with
a style of hat that is not in accord. There
fore II can be understood that the choice
of an empire costume for the winter will
involve considerable time and thought, not
satisfactorily. But there are charming
hats that are suitable. and it would seem
as though the majority of women would
! be able TO compass all that is required to
turn out very satisfactorily gowned. A
charming gown, for instance. following the
lines of this model be a purple cloth
with the wrap and trimmings of darker
purple velvet; then, with a dark purple
hat, a large picture hat in the empire
style with feathers in the two shades, 1t
can easily be understood that an excellent
result be obtained. Gray cloth. with
wrap of sable and just a touch of yellow in
the embroidery, is another charming color