The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-29

Is likely to look demoralized after an hours
wear, and for travelling, sports and general
hard usa ge, the dainty thing ia, according TO
all canons of good taste, out Of place.
Gradually this point of view has been
forced upon womankind and now that the
first fine careless rapture Of enthusiasm
over the embroidered lingerie blouse has
subsidized, the want of more substantial
waists for some purpose is making itself
felt. As a result, there is a brisker sale for
the tailored shirt waist this season than
there has been at any time within the last
three or four years, and the shops that
cater to women's needs in the line of waists,
stocks, belts, &c. are showing many new
shirt waist models in response TO the de-
mand.
Linen is prominently the modlsh ma
terial for these waists, but good linen ia
expensive and for the woman who cannot
afford to pay high prices for her waists
there are models in madras and in the SER
viceable English piqu6.
The most conspicuous novelty in the
province of the tailored shirt waist is the
short sleeved waist of linen, with collar
either of the high fiat rundown type or
with a low collar turning away from the
throat. The latter is c~harmingly youth
ful. but, though it looks temptingly COM
Portable for hot weather, few women past
their first youth can wear IL well.
With the higher collar, however, the
; waist ccomes practical for any one who
can wear a shirt waist at all, and. though
the idea of a short sleeved tailored waist
strikes one at first hearing as |incongruous
the actual thing is really very attractive.
With the short sleeved coats that are a
feature Of so many spring costumes. a long
shirt sleeve is an awkward thing, for the
glove cannot be drawn up over the stitf
cuff as il can over the close long sleeve OF
the long sleeved lingerie blouse. when oc-
casion demands. In order to get around
this difficulty, the shirt makers have de-
yised the linen waist with a sleeve ending
at the elbow and finished by a turntack
cuff, aaring slightly and held by cuh links
which do not, however, pass through the
turnback portion of the cuff.
Waists Of this class are as a rule made
without plaits on the shoulder, the fronts
being plain, save for the central box plat
and for a pocket on the left side. A plain
waist Of this cha a cter must be very well
cut and fitted if it is to look well, and many
. women cannot wear such a model at all,
but, for a good figure, the plain front and
o plain French back are excellent, and 1t
Il pleasant to see some devia ton from
the plated waist, originally launched as
the Gibson, which has stayed in fashion
so long and which is still shown among
the med is vouched for by the fashionable
shirt waist makers.
The pocket, which. is a feature of the
plain front waist, may be u tailored slit
pocket, like that in a mans waistcoat, or
may be an applied pocket, and in the latter
J event an embroidered monogram some
times decorates it. Ready made waists
of this same general design arc offered
IN all the shops, but are usually In cheap
linen or lawn, and if the pocket is en-
broidered the embroidery is done by ma
chine AMI only an initial is supplied.
1t IL the fate of any new n simple mode
TO be copied and done to death, but the
difference between the well made waist
Of. good linen with hand embroidered
, monogram and the cheap imitation Jumps
at the eyes and one need not hesitate TO
wear the genuine thing because of the
imitation.
Plated waists with the short sleeves
and rundown collars Of the model just
described are very pretty and more becom-
ing 10 some figures than he plain front,
\ but for the woman willing to assist nature
In the matter Of figure much can be done to