The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-22

NeglIEe shirts-Leather Lined Seams.
London tailors say that green ia = be-
the modish color for men this oar. 1t iP
especially In demand for f~annels. and
probably to this extent the fashion Will he
adopted in New York.
In other respects 1t Is likely to be limited
to details Of dress. There may be green
shirts and green ties, but green suits will be
few.
In London black or black and white four
INLAND ties are worn with green suits In
New York the suit will be black and white
or gray, while the neckwear will be green.
Thus 1t will be another green and gray
summer for men. That was foreshadowed
by the tweeds sent here from Scotland,
which are of gray cloth in the most modish
patterns crossed with checks of light green.
There Is scarcely q gray tweed to be seen
this year without its green in one shade or
another somewhere in the pattern.
/. rs better to look we'll than to be in the
style, so the men with light hair to whom
green and gray are not becoming may wear
dark blue and be happy.
Some of the suits sent over this spring
by the London tailors are shy on pockets.
Some Of the sack coats have one pocket on
the inside and none outside. Others have
one pocket on the outside, and this contains
a small change pocket. Only flaps are
where the pockets should be. This abolition
| Of the pockets was primarily intended for
men inclined to be stout.
There has alec been a decrease in the
number Of trousers pockets. A tailor on
Fifth avenue said the other day that few
of his customers cared for the so-called
pistol or hip pocket in their trousers and
that the small change pocket was used by
few of his customers. Fancy waistcoats
also are less literally supplied with pockets
than they used to be-. There seem to be
lust as many, but half of them are dummy
pockets. One new waistcoat has no pock-
cts at all, but it is a freak garment.
1t won't matter much what your ncc'itte
is like this summer so long as it is narrow
enough. Two inches is the slnartest width.
The tie is arranged with tight knot, which
Of course narrows it still more.
The s,nartest London ties are a knit silk,
which are now sent herein stripes as we'll az
solid colors. Once a man wore one OF these
ties every day from October to April and
it was as presentahlo then as the day he
put it on.
These ties are prettiest in the solid colors.
They are expansive, costing 81; but their
price docs not seem excessive when one
thinks that some Of the Fifth avenue haber-
dashers charge $3.50 for a winter four-in-
hand.
long as the high turnover collars are worn.
There Is an attempt on the part o. some Of
the manufacturers to return to the FORMER
style Of turnover collar, which did not have
what is called the barlock that closes the
collar in front, but merely met like an or
dinary collar. In this case, OF course, the
collar opens, showing q slit down the front,
Whatever the necktie may be, 1t Is settled
that the stock is no longer a possibility
with a we'll dressed a except under Ger
tain very particular circumstances; Hunt:
ing dress requires a stock, which is' OF
course, white.
For riding a stock is also %spprogrtate.
Stocks are always best in white, With
them a racing plate. a gold safety PHI or a
horseshoe pin should be worn: The Eng
scenes give them color and are very we'll
suited to the stock. Pearls or ic"siied
pins ara out Of place with this kind Of tie,
az they are with any clothes intended FOR
sporting wear.
! will have much to do with the popularity OF
the mohair suit, which tailors have been
irving hard to introduce here for the Last
| two ummer These suits are very popu-
lar in Europe and have long boon worn IN
tropical countries.
Several Spaniartls OF wealth who we're
here last summer managed to look cool or
the warmest days beca.se they wore these
suits. The first firm to order these goods
for the United States has its headquarters
in a Southern CITY. Northern and Eastern
firms have followed it's example.
The best Of this silk mohair il so thin
that one can see the light through it. T. ia
said to be moisture proof and is not unlike
alpa ca, although it has more body.
The material Is said to be the coolest
that can be worn. 1t is so much Of a novelty
still that New Workers. ave been slow to
take it up:
It is not to be denied that the trousers need
frequent pressing. The colors most fire.
uuehtly worn are black and dark. gray.
The lighter shades Of gray which have a
metallic, silvery tinge are not likely ever
to be popular for wear in New York, al
though they might do for the country.
Here the suits have been made up in
only two pieces with a skeleton lining. In
Europe they are more deliberately finished,
with a high waistcoat and a silk lining. 4
waistooat seems an unnecessary accom-
papiment to O suit intended only for warm
weather use.
To make neglige shirts a little more
costly than they would otherwise be and
makers are adding a TIN line Of embroidery
to the middle pleat. The color Of the en-
broidery must harmonic with the rest
of the shirt.
There Is also a thin line Of embroidery
about the stiff turned back cuff, coming
just at the central point. This Ornamental
tion adds at least So to the cost of a shirt,
although it cannot be said to increase it's
beauty to a corresponding extent.
Such shirts belong. to the fresh class,
which also includes the new leather lined
seams that some Of the English tailors ara
sending over here. These are said to
strengthen greatly any wearing apparel
to which they are applied.
The advantage Of covering seams on
the inside with leather does not appear al
the first glance. American made clothes
rarely wear out In that way. For poorly
sewed English clothes some such pro-
lection might be necessary, though.