Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-04-08

the Empress Josephine distinguished with
her beauty. French millinery artists may
induce their patrons to accept these shapes,
but YOU American mondaines will fight
shy of the empire chapeau unless It be
In a modified turban with straw brim and
crown of silk or satin. There is no cause
for alarm in these freakish things, as the
new millinery Is so varied and beautiful
that every want is filled. Most of the broad
brimmed large hats are in paille d'Italie
of the softest kind. The crowns are com
posed of pulled silk or lace surmounted by
plumes or flowers. This Is the favorite
Marie Antoinette shape while the drec-
toire hat has the addition of wide strings,
which prettily frame the face. Some of
the seasons best shapes have the brims
bent down on the hair at the back; others
are lifted by cachepeignes of flowers and
ribbons, while, again, quite as smart eff
fects are gained by q tilted bandeau of rib
bon flowers. A few of the new hats
show narrow brims like sailor with large
bullying crowns, a chou of flowers and tulle.
from which springs large ostrich plume,
curving over toward the back, forming the
trimming. But they not likely to find
general acceptance. High, bushy ruches
surround low crowns, while wreaths of
roses massed together or separated in
groups of three or four more used than
ever. The rose is indeed the flower par
excellence In millinery. but the vegetable
world has not been overlooked, brussels
sprouts made of soft green silk being
among the kitchen garden contributions.
The empire vogue has left its mark on
the choice Of spring colors Empire green,
which has pleasant faded air. old rose or,
20 be exact, bois de rose, and natter blue
are among the newest shades, but pearly
grays, pain brule and old lace tints and
the mauve and violets that lean toward a
pinky tone will be most worn. And. make
q note of It, all white, even in tub ma
terials. Is not smart unless 1t has a yellow
lsh cast of age like that seen In mellow old
lace. Lace to meet this fashionable de-
mand Is dipped in tea and all sorts of home
ly expedients are resorted to in order to
achieve the desired end. Linens are soft;
indeed, every summer fabric takes on this
charming characteristic, and the most
sought-for linens of the season are the
white unbleached effects. although the
range in colors Is perfectly stunning. The
Powered muslins are exquisite this spring.
and the gown in the cut is a lovely ex-
ample carried out in this material in pale
yellow, with blurred floral effects mingling
princess, and the waist fuliness is laid
in plaits. Panels formed of brown vel
vet bows trim the skirt at intervals
bat of broderie anglaise is held at the top
Of the decolletage with similar velvet bows.
The sleeves are short and puffed
guimpe of yellow pin tucked lawn trans
forms this evening frock into an afternoon
dress.
Shadow checks have been on the market
for some time, but lately there Is new
development in these materials which en-
ables the wearer to do the sartorial DR.
Jekyll and Mr.. Hyde act. If she turns in
one direction she is, to all intents and pur-
poses, gowned In a plain-toned frock, but
presto change, and her career becomes
checkered-loud enough, In fact to be heard
at quite a distance. This changeable stunt
Is not produced by color gradations, but is
| in the woof and warp of the material Itself
| One pays good price for this novelty
and much of the effect Is lost IL the right
lining Is not used under the wool shadow
| checks.
If you are wondering what your very
best gown will be made Of ask to be shown
some pieces of MORE chiffon taffeta. 1t is
| the correct choice-you may take my word
for tt-and, like so many of the longed-
for things. is expensive. The MORE has the
softest weave of taffeta with a watered
surface, sometimes white, but oftener
opaIescent. Easter brides are having their
wedding gowns fashioned from the white
variety. II Is a stately fabric for the
bridal gown and requires severe treatment
| in cut and little ornamentation, save hand
some lace. A tall Junolike bride will look
stunning in such a gown made en- princesse.
Then there Is net that resembles the
coarsest of the black and white dotted face
wells that will be used for summer frocks.
A lace with scaIIoped edge comes to
match the yard material. A frock of this
net Is airy ana dainty worn, as they all
viii be. over lingerie petticoats.
The war Of skirts goes merrily on, Paris
decreeing trailing lengths except for trot-
teur occasions. and American women lead
Ing the cotilion and shopping expedition
! In Jupes that escape the ground In
small German. town there Is league
against trailing skirts. with the mayor at
the head, that has aroused the more FASH
ionable women OF the town into forming
counter union OF liberty dress. 1t Is
to be hoped the municipal authorities IN
other places Will not take the question
seriously. The liberty Of the press would