Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-12
PALE BLUE RAJAH.

sides, to straight belt. This yoke piece
and crossing straps are also worked to
match the sleeve or arm openings. The coat
has merely deep hem at the bottom.
a handsome black wolfe In gray and
of lengthwise narrow, shallow plaits, trim
med by four bias bands of the wolfe. rang
ing from five to two inches in width, go
ing around the skirt. one band being FIVE
inches from the bottom. These bias bands
are stitched on at the top but are held
down at the bottom by groups OF small.
fiat gray buttons, three-quarters of an inch
tons are in groups Of three, the members
of each group being an inch apart, and each
group five inches from the next The groups
of buttons are arranged to come directly In
line. that is. those of the top band are over
those on the last one. and also all between.
The pinafore bodice-the sleeves and
guimpe being of pale gray chifon-is plaft-
ed. and has It's opening at the top out
lined by a graduated section of pale gray
satin, having two rows of three buttons
each down the sides. Short pieces like
bretelles, but ending above the bust line,
OF deeper gray velvet ribbon join the upper
sides Of the gray satin Implement From
this velvet ribbon sleeve cap of the wolfe
lined with gray taffeta projects. These
caps are five inches deep in the center, but
taper to sharp points where they Join
the body just below the bust line, being.
OF course, Joined to the armhole section.
Down each side of the velvet ribbon clear
to the girdIe Is a line Of buttons an inch
apart. and another line of them follows the
outside of the sleeve caps three-fourths of
an inch from the edge.
Another Partisan idea Is the use Of inch
wide velvet ribbon in color either match
ing or sharply contrasting with the gown.
In loops over the bodice. sleeves and skirt.
For example, a white dotted Swiss has a
rIa tod nd N
panel effect is inch-wide black velvet ribbon
forming Ks. The ribbon begins-starting
from under the edges of the plaits and end
ing under other edges lower downright
Ks, each larger than the other as they go
| down the skirt Starting from fiat cravat
bow OF the ribbon at the base OF the short
I lace stock. similar ribbons are carried down
| and out across the tops of the sleeves. sim.
| liar pieces extending from the back and
| crossing the upper sleeves to form an x on
! each sleeve. At the under part of the arm
| they meet and go around the bottom OF
| the elbow sleeves in a straight band. From
| the center back ribbon velvet Is carried
| around under the arms, up across the
| front, where 1t forms an irregular X, with
the cross below the bust and the upper
| prongs much larger than the lower. These
| upward-going ends extend over the Shout
| ders and down the back to the center
| where they meet and are caught with a
| small buckle. from which twO-pointed ends
extend to the belt, formed also of velvea
| ribbon.
| The combination Of Gobeln blue and gray
| on chapeaus Is much seen just now in
| Paris. A pale gray chip, a round hat with
narrow brim and quite high crown, has
Gobelin blue tulie. combined with palest
| gray, folded about the crown. At the right
side. near the front. Is a large chou of pale
| gray and Gobelin blue liberty satin ribbon
| and from this two full Gobelin blue ostrich
| feathers slant toward the left side and
| back the ends curling around toward the
front. Pale blue tulle makes the cache
/ peigne.
| Another hat Is in pale blue chip. with 9
! wider brim than the one just described
| and q low crown Of white applique lace
| over pale GObelin blue velvet tulle. From
| the back. starting from q bow lace hall
| bow half chou of lace are two short ostrich
| plumes one in Gobelin blue and the otneI
| iE gray. The blue runs forward ending
| we'll toward the front. where 1t curls on
| the brim. the gray ends In the same way
| further back. Under the brim are tiny os-
| trich tips In different shades Of gray and q
! knot of Gobelin blue ribbon.
A small black Neapolitan hat with Q
cup-like crown and a brim pointed in the
! front has rising from the center OF the
crown q cluster of snowy ostrich tips
These curf over the sides and back. Black
tulle bands the crown and makes the
| cachepeigne.
A white Neapolitan has a round crown
and narrow brim. rolled up bit all tht
way around. but most so at the left side
crisp folds Of yellow tulle that dun ava,