Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-28

worn with a short plated walking skirt.
| There are many severely simple cloth coats
of any length desired and there are again
| most attractive models made up elabo-
| rately with corduroy or velvet and effec-
| lively braided. Braiding forms i'm
| portant part of the trimming this year, on
some models fine soutache cloth being used,
on others wide silk braid, while again
braids of all widths will be effectively COM
bined. 1t Is generally accepted that the
braid should be of the same color as the
cloth and black used only black.
The directoire style of suit is unlike any
thing that has been worn for some time
and possesses a certain individuality that Is
always desired. Nevertheless unless there
are many cloth gowns in the outfit the long
directoire coat Is not an advisable one.
While smart, the lines little too I'M
| graceful and the coat too long for a regular
| street dress. With directoire coat the
| skirt is generally plain, and to be really
| correct should be long. which is another
| objection to this style of jacket for walk
| ing suit.
There seems to be no limit to the fexi-
! bility of the empire model, for at one time
1t will be seen in a long, loose wrap and
| again in a short little jacket that is pretty
| we'll fitted in to the figure, and both are
| acknowledged to be pure types of the one
style. At any rate, the empire style of
dress has been so obstinately insisted upon
| by the leading modistes that suggestion
of its design is now to be recognized in
| large majority of coats, wraps, house
dresses and ball gowns. There is one style
| of empire that is quite popular for the
morning; this is a hip-length jacket fitted
| in tight in back, but above the waist line
so to give the regular empire effect, but
| brought down almost to the natural waist
| line in front Below the belt is a short
| double ruffle or skirt, which is fiaring rather
| than full over the hips. In front Is little
embroidered vest of velvet or satin, which,
ever is preferred, and the collar and cuffs
| are of the same embroidered material. A
| pretty vest may be made of light tan cloth
| with border of passementerie or Persian
| embroidery. With jacket of this style a
| plain circular skirt may be worn or some
plated design that Is If possible somewhat
| new, the average plated skirt has be-
| come decidedly monotonous, pretty and be-
! coming it may be.
| Corduroy and velvet trim many of the
new models and are often most attractive
made up together. One particularly pretty
dress was of plain colored cloth, the skirt
| trimmed with medallions of corduroy with
soutache braid. while the jacket was COM
| posed almost entirely Of corduroy, but re-
leved by wide panels of the cloth covered
| with an all-over design in soutache braid.
The jacket was a short empire model,
| falling only to the waist and semi fitted.
| In the center of the back was a wide
| braided cloth panel and in front the same
panel was arranged to fasten almost
over the fancy vest which was of palest
green velvet edged with cream colored
Vaenciennes. The skirt fitted fiat about
the hips with an inverted box plat down
the center, on each side Of which started
a founce which was added some inches
below the knees and was headed with a