Every evening, Wilmington daily commercial., 1906-04-13
FASHIONS IN SPRING COATS.
,.r YORK sun.

a,coat this year is the closeness with /
oL;.b il follows the lines of the figure. /
VIZ chesterfield. which is the form most /
aanrlar partly because it is suited to |
Pf,rpost every kind OF wear, adds another /
sa,.eltv in fashion This is the plat /
nnb;cb the side seams form in the back OF !
,be coat. These plaits are usually tackled |
al the bottom.
This stvle, it must be said has already /
.rovn so common as to pail on persons |
sbo use striking modes II is in the ready |
made garments. however, that it is most /
a,erdone. Skiliul tailors are able to make /
wen this kind of fashion sufficiently /
unobtrusive.
The Chesterfield coats of the best kind |
6ll a few inches below the knee They |
are made up generally in gray OF black /
ror.ted. In spite Of its excessive vogue |
last wear gray is as popular as ever for
rnr;ng coats. Worsted it the material |
most frequently used, but any dressy |
s,nf whether il be intended for overcoat- |
ipg or suiting will serve.
The object Of the plaits on the side is to
make the coat flare at the bottom and ac-
centuate the curve in the waist There
b kfrequently third plat at the bottom OF
,be ,eam in the middle of the back of the
eoat The coat is so cut as to outline the
Vsist distinctly. Tho shoulders are cut
Moderately broad, but good tailors are
careful TO avoid any of the old time ex-
sggcrated square shoulder effect
The collars OF these coats are cut mod
srsey low and the roll which is between
eight and nine inches long, is faced with
slk This should not be pressed but
merely rolled back. The lapel is about
Two inches wide. Some Of these coats have
breast pocket which is matter OF
sboice. There are always two hip pockets.
The lapels are well peakedland the sleeve
a finished with a two button vent. This
a regarded as much better form than a
hlrnback cuff in the case of a coat which
ike Chesterfield, may be worn for dress.
The single breasted overcoat shown in
the cut is a much more sporty garment
than a Chesterfield, and It's uses are pro-
portionately restricted. II could never
he recommended as "A good investment for
sman who has only one garment. II fits
the figure very tightly and Is made usually
in gray worsted. The coat falls below
the knee and has the two plaits so indis-
psn,able to the new style. There is plenty
Of fulness at the bottom and the hip |
pockets are supplied with lapels
The collar is usually OF gray velvet |
decidedly peaked and in a shade that |
matches the gray cloth The coat has an |
outside breast pocket although that de- /
tail is not indispensable. The pocket flaps ]
are lined with cloth and sometimes in gray /
velvet the same as the collar. The large 1
gray buttons which are not concealed by |
flap match the shade of the velvet. Ia |
coat Of this kind it is best TO have a ma
tenal marked by a decided diagonal or a
stripe OF the same color.
The difference between a Chesterfield |
and q single breasted overcoat is chiefly
amatter of utility. The Chesterfield, exen
i made up in gray material serves as
well for evening dress as for business wear.
With silk hat it may be worn in the even
ing with perfect propriety and Is also
adapted to business and the Sunday mou-
Ing parade after church. The other coat,
however, is hardly dignihed enough to
serve these varied purposes.
10 would be the part OF prudence for the /
purchaser Of one overcoat TO have that OF
black rather than gray worsted. 1t may 4
not look so well, in the sense that II is not /
so new, for daytime wear but It will |
look better at night 1t will keep IN /
better condition, moreover, and one Is /
never so likely to tire of black. The but |
ton through undercoat being a garment |
that is unusual in itself, has every detail |
that can be added 10 it. Thus it is sup
Piled with turnback cuffs Of the material |
piped with velvet
There are always men who are uncom- !
Portable unless a coat has long tails, even
though they expect to wear it only in mild |
weather. There is paletot for them this |
spring which is built on the familiar lines |
Of the Newmarket The buttons are |
covered with a hy The materials used |
are any wool faced worsted or other ma |
terial sufficiently fine to be suited to such a
garment. It is essentially for dress. Nothing
could be more Inappropriate for business
or general wear than one OF these long
coats with a black velvet collar and broad
silk roll collar with decided peaks. The
side pockets are covered with a flap and
the breast pocket is finished with a heavy
seam. The narrow tuned-Dack cuff is
piped with velvet and closes with button
The coat is cut well into the figure at the
waist. but the fulness comes in the bottom
OF the tails and not in the bell shaped cut.
The full at the bottom OF the skirt is really
the decisive element in the new coat. The
shoulders in this coat are of moderate
width and are natural, which Is the
tailor way of saying that they should
not be excessively padded and stitiened.
The fact that it is single breasted Is the
only feature of this garment that makes 1t
suited TO summer wear. Such mode IS
Inappropriate TO summer, and only the
taste for a long tail coat at all times makes
them possible in such a season. As
matter Of fact, with their lightweight ma
tora and lining they are not warm. Their
use is so restricted that only the man with
a considerable number OF coats can afford
the luxury
The undisguisedly rough wear there are
the ulster. the covert coat and the loose
knockabout coat. which has not even the
pretentiousness Of the ulster. These over
sacks, as they are called, fall loosely IN
straight lines from the shoulders and are
different from all the other modes OF the
season in that they ignore the lines OF the
hgure Il is only in part that the shoulders
fit we'll
They are of medium width and entirely
free from padding. As these oversacks
are for hard usage they are usually OF
mothproof cloth in inconsplcuous pat
terms They have only skeleton lining.
Sometimes they are made with "A flap, but
often with the buttons coming through.
The cuffs are long enough to turn over
IN case OF rain and are intended as really
useful adjunct Of the coat, not merely as
an ornament. There are only the two out
side hip pockets and "A change pocket.
These are applied TO the outside of the coat
with strapped seams. The seams in the
coat are also strapped
Similar 10 these overcoats and serving
almost the same purpose are the tourist
ulsters, which are somewhat more elaho-