New-York tribune., 1906-08-26
BEPPINA' SRECIPES
italian Dishes That Capfivatsd On
american House1vifs

-h"'eftCo" HOtssl>Tss
opened the door Of tha eos1 $50.
kitchen and asked Beppina II rnlzhr
AEntTi pure" sha exclaimed. lifting the r,,ss - =.
ket basket piled high with salad fruit .-q -
scented herbs from chair. I took An = 49,,
picture OK several rows OF copper pets txi,.u-~
Wasn eieanLness-tor BepDina scorus susys..o-s
OF hygienic aluminium or enamel wsrs-a,4 81,
cracking charcoal burning In three hoIss - -
stone shelf that serves as stove IN Italian ho.z
holds. IL was pretty picture. and Bs1ui-a i- -
sDotless white apron. with her curly hsf- sxss,-
from under her cap, and her brown eyes suarxIr.
IN the sunlight. added very materially 70 ir
Beppina,' said, ''fOr the benefit OF fhs s-,.-
can public, who is not aware OF It's existence ~
Is therefore missing one Of tae greatest t,ss,, -
desserts that know OF. want you. to r,ax, ~
some Monte BianeO before my eyes"
Nrov{ 2ssous nov Is y possible not 20 k1vOs
Il explained that every Oue'f Rs, hor,~4.t S-
s9 ssStzeEand on the north and the Msatsrraae4n
NJ At least. they know what chestnRts areF' sra
y admitted that they were known, hut r.ore us
luxury than a necessity.
..HSo9ato ..W9at DO the poor people eat thsreT'
Not half as good" she remarked. eaklzs fv.o.
punging them into 6oiiins water afiss rs5,v M
the outside husk There they bubblsd ssr s-ys-s
Maria told me this morning that ySl dtu',
have any herbs in America Is that sog' asxss
''fes-or not many. Our grsadmOths-s us.a 20
nave gardens OF them. but " you tried o bug ccsn
Nor garlic. either3'
LIP made de face at this eouldI.s tel h.r ssas
ana nd extremely distastefuI to the Ang.0-Sax0n
VERY little garlic" replied
90, Madonna mia! What does your roast beef tast.
Beppina, whose idea q roast bssf IS tsat 1. Is
only the raw material on which 10 exert hsr c.!-
losue Of delicious herbs that are sila1Iy ur.-as-
latable, silently meditated for few r1ornarts
.And you like it that way?' she asked repI1acs-
fully
went UP again tn BeDDina's estimation.
The chestnUts were cleaned by this time az,
milk with sugar and little vanilla added
bepplna went on with her catechism Of AI1e-.ssa
MARIA says good cook can get rs Iizs rno-,h
N AInerlea- Can sheE' Evidently MsEsa's s-z..-
ToboTation from headquarters. ' '''''- "''''--
pay BepDina S. month, and have the SaiisssC-
has right 70 four fiascos Of crude red vine sssy
month as well. for which expend % cents
remembering certain pecuIations OF Beppinas e the
omelet line Besides, no one speaks Italian thsrs
g months effort at English had resulted only u
"a. Tan kew and the hTm conviction J.a.
cellar door," The idea Of America and fortune
a fat fowl. nothing short OF miracle in I,lly'
where the chickens literally have to scratch f1r
living. was slowly turning over ana over On a SIT
on the second fire. and some delicious squash b1s-
SONS were sizzling in butter on the third BepDin2
pOked the chestnuts with a fork to see II they 1es
soft enough. the milk being quite absorbed and the
guFes dry. She put them aside 70 COOL and. tasns
down bowl with green lining that would have
sent an artist into ecstacy proceeded 70 beat u9
the cream with three pTOnged wooden fOrz, sit
dish. she rubbed the chesJnuts through until thsv
fell in fine. light fakes, like snow A few DER
touches here and then. then the cream 1ut INTO j.
ready for the table.
While We are stin in the kitchen viii get Bsg-
PIMA TO make another dessert for the one Ieie--.-
member of our family who does not like ehesais-
~ y, any FORM or disguise ZabaIon IS very Leli-ss
though its only unusual element is a glass 2.
Sup' tuueT taoISspoOrIul or sugar anu go e-,sts
Two together until the yOlk almost Nlt',
poured IN slowly while Beppna beat Inc ~. IN-s ~
waS turned into saucepan and put on Iie - ~
process until II came the boiling point ~
the anti-cheStnUt member was forced 70 besn -
fare luncheon backward for thar day. -o-i
It Is strange how &c iird nlicalS,,
really palatably cooked outside OF Italy. Ge1eleS
milk and dosed with American cheese. Let L Pc
said right here that ParmigianO is the only Snss ~
tnat agrees with maCarOni and II Is W0rtl ~
SIcrt to get il in order To the Hlarveloas, ~.
many delicious ways Beppina has OF servilS y;
put tt down IN its entity. though know tle, ", -
basil and ParmiSiano viii prove stumbHns oloe@s
in the way OF success in America.
TAKE one pound OF tOn1aJOes-"dOse' Tor - sAge-v
sons, as Beppina puts it-and cut them into s9ls ~
pieces Put them into a stew pan adding ear =.
onion chopped hne. little parsley, a sIlaA 49,
spoonful Of olive oil and tablespoonful Of butte;
When this is well cooked and dissolved. 80
through sieve and place or the stove asaia D"-'
The macaron should be boiled IN salsed wa,s.; wa.s,
and plenty OF il, Take from the fire oStotts otts-s--
than Americans dO-drain WELL and after poe.t.,,
the sauce over it. cover with grated taflils.a..s
cheese. I may add that neVec, never does a -.
Italian cut MS ms'car0ni untlef any cfcul.s.s-~s
y may wind around his fork until u asssr-
the proportions OF football. or it may 81. S..s 4
away from it Ike telegraph wires. hut eit.e. r
preferable 80 the unpavdOnable sin Of ChOppins
Up IN small pieces to NJ his mouth -
The fowl is done TO turn a piece OF Co.'s t'oIs
dish "a fresh grape leaf waiting its course aT
table. Green ana purple hgs are piled h-l z
broken tiny twigs from the lemon yervainS S-e =. ~
kitchen window and dropped them into the 49,,
bowls. Only one moro thing needs to be done -
that really a little later. but 1 must deserve
When BePpina first came dreaded onc ins ines.
pacity more than all others-the inability " t9.-ss- s-
tiOnal culinary sin. since country is nee -
IT, determined TO make no suggestions oVS S-,,rs
gently but drmly show her the error or ne- av,st-
and try 20 teach her how 20 make taiIiy s., Gi-
able brew az least She got out the little -
arated from the lower BY the bottom. studded s. a. q
holes. There Just three OF VINO me :,
the forbidden drink on every possible. ana S,Tss Ss
out three large tablespOOnfulS OF niatelts55 S,s
dropped Z into the upper division sasp,S 80 Tos
with boiling water. and. after enipyyilS ISsS ~ 10
e close 60 the charcoal hTe-nOt close euoes,-
have L BY any chance boil but TO keep < SS.r NJ
brsNly. Liftlng the top OF the uppe- story @ ~
cOfIeepOt she poured On q small amount 9. ssSl 49,
aud replaced The cover This prOcess = 1870 t-'scr
the boiling point. The result such 9, - go IN
eoiotea, tTa-rant decoctiOl that eIst.sc 5s \.
Iaxity IN the .dus1iug department that eau -
ready obsers cd.