Evening star., 1906-09-08
black satin string tie completes this. neat

| black satin string tie completes this neat
| get-up.
With Triple Basques.
The second gown shows fitted Jacket.
with the triple basques mentioned. This Is
| of black cloth, with narrow crossed vest
Of white unfinished linen madras. The
elbow puff sleeves are finished with turn
back cuffs to match the triple scheme of
| the coat. The skirt is full and entirely
plain and the hat Is made of a white
/ field disk laid in folds and ornamented with
black velvet ribbon and a black fancy
aigrette. linen and silk stock and scar
| let silk string tie are the neck finish for the
gown.
The third gown In this drawing Is In a
way the most splendid of all. A loose three
quarter coat and plain skirt comprise the
model, with checked gray and back Eng
| lish tweed for material. But this modest
texture is made fairly radiant by the vest,
which is of white suede embroidered with
black and touches of deep yellow. This vest
| Is also cut with the lowness Of a mans
waistcoat to show stiff front of white
! tucked linen, while the coat itself has short
puff sleeves and shawl revers. Black her
cules braid outlined with a narrow SOU
tache in deep yellow trims the collar, sleeve
cuffs and pockets of the coat, while the
skirt hangs without a vestige of ornament
panying headpfece with this smart gown
| may be specially remarked, for the helmet
shape is to be one of fashions winter fav-
| orites. Black silk beaver is its material.
with soft silk In black and deep yellow for
the side rosettes, and black ostrich plume
for the rear fall.
In the smaller picture two distinctly novel
skirts are given. The smarter gown of the
two Is of bronze green cloth with only a
heavy tailor stitching for additional orna-
| ment, for the four-tiered skirt of this is its
chief feature. A smart little cloth bolero
hung over biouse in rich plaids Of bronze
green and browns composes the bodice.
whose full silk sleeves have deep cuffs of
| the cloth, put on high above the elbows. A
| walking hat Of brown felt. with ribbon
loops in same color, and bronze green
paradise plume Is the headpiece.
In Autumn Weight.
Very sedate. indeed, Is the fifth little
| frock. which is Of deep blue cloth in au-
| tumn weight. The round skirt Is covered
| by down-running panels, stitched and seal
| loped at the bottom. A deep puritan cape Of
| the cloth composes almost the entire bodice,
| for this covers a blue silk waist whose
short sleeves are made entirely by heavy
| fails of blue and black lace. At the front
| the cape is crossed and there fastened with
blue gem buttons in black rims. and above
this rises a stiff white linen collar and lit
tie black bow tie.
large turban made OF the gown ma
terial, alternating with loops Of back vel
vet. is the headpiece. At the side black
quilts give stylish cachet to this.
Stiff high collars you will see here the
prevailing neck dressing, and with the neat
string and bow ties worn with them nothing
could be smarter for a stylish walking
dress. The majority of the French people,
In fact dwell tremendously upon this severe
style Of neckwear, and some very fussy lit
tie Paris frocks display such stern neck
treatments, though the high collars are
sometimes splendidly embroidered as to
lose the too hard contrast
To wear with all costumes Of taior-made
wash blouses are also leaning more toward
stiff tucked fronts of mems shirts. Which
Is as it should be, of course, with the Sc
we're band neck finish.
Never So Stylish.
AS to odd coats. as all Of us cannot afford
an entire street costume at the outset Of
autumn. these garments of lesser magnif1-
cence-for odd coats are never SO stylish as
the entire costume-need to be touched
upon. The pony shapes are still seen, and
trimmed prettily with braid with touches
of white at the neck and sleeves, these are
very smart when completed with suitable
skirt
They are shown in all colors-even deep
reds-and so ornamental and entirely sat
isfactory are some OF the models that the
,, look of very smart costume may be
achieved with one. For example, the black
coats go stunningly with checked skirts. in
black and white, which may also be bought
separately. For the red coats black skirt
is in keeping. and checked or plain skirts
may be had to match any of the ones in
other colors. Then since cloth and woolly
materials go hand in hand, and cloth may
top silk or silk top cloth. here Is still an
other field for adventuring upon an odd
pony coat. Along with them appears the
I.I fa~ 81 ,fe1,
| is always valuable and very wisely the
makers continue to turn out these in the
| loose box shapes long seen.
Watteau Coats for Winter.
In the department of smarter coats most
beautiful long loose shapes are seen in fine
satin-f1nished black cloth, which Is made
still further splendid with braid embroidery
and silk applications. Watteau coats some
of these models are called and as sleeves
are opera loose, and the coats themselves
hang from the iovelest yokes, such a coat
find is invaluable for all rough winter wear
Similar models are shown in white and
palely tinted cloths. and apropos Of these.
word of the dyer. All the world may
not know 1t, but many stunning coat or
gown this winter will be old loveliness re-
dyed. The fine cloths in white and pale
tints worn last winter, dyers affirm, take
to new hues like the duck to water. Many
reappear without sign of shrinking. all
this having been done in the first instance,
and with sleeves made over, and some new
touches, there is my lady so completely dis
guised her dearest friend would not know
her.
Black. brown. blue and smoke gray are
! some of the new tints the pale colors take
kindly to. while white may be turned into
anything. Lastly IL the cloth gown is not
sufficiently generous for new styles, its
skirt may always be matched into one of
the smart little capes which are the vogue:
or it may go to trim a silk frock dyed
white frock recently seen appeared masked
in pale coral, and as decking for a thick
voile in same toine Both had been dyed
in the same vat, and the evening pretti-
ness they turned out was really bewilder-
ing. 1t Is a good wrinkle for. the fat
pocketbook. as woman's finery is likely to
be dearer than ever,
s.,s., MARY DEAN