davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16
PARIS FASHIONS
Special Correspondence OF The Star
PARIS. September l. 1909

Special Correspondence Of The Star
PARIS. September 1, 1905.
HE divine Sarah and her strug-
gle for bit Of red ribbon has
set all Paris by the ears. The
end Of the question Is not yet,
for 1t was discussed at q recent
meeting Of the cabinet at Rambouillet with
out finding solution. IA. BRAND In his
capacity as minister of public instruction
claims the right to confer the order, while
the council Of the Legion OF Honor holds
the privilege of veto, which 1t lately ex-
ereised against the great actress. Bern
hardt herself, who is at Belle He leading
the quiet, invigorating life she has ar
ranged for herself, only follows from afar
the phases Of the campaign fought by her
friends much more than by herself Clad
as a huntress from morning until night,
her legs incased in CATERS. her face ex-
posed to the bracing sea breeze, this wise
artist inhales the pure air and goes into
her fort" which Is transformed into de-
Hghtful summer home, only for meals and
to Sleep You will never find her lolling
In q rocking chair dreaming or reading.
Rather she Is to be found playing tennis or
on excursions, walking for hours together
to render her joints supple or to strengthen
her nerves. After such life Of overstrafn
and excitement as she leads one wonders
how it is she does not require absolute
rest. Edmund Rostand, who knows the
priceless value of such an interpreter for
his "Aiglon," wrote charming letter the
other day to the Figaro in which he says:
Sarah Bernhardt is not merely an actress;
she IL a genius. We owe to her that evo-
luton In our taste for the esthetic for dec
orations and for scenic adoption. She
brought 1t with her first appearance on
the stage. When we think OF it, we recog-
nize that We owe to her alone our evef-
growing love for the refinement of home,
our comprehension of the Incompatible re-
naissance and its revival In our dress and
in our literature. More than one painter
and writer has found his inspiration in
the teaching Of this extraordinary woman.
How many pure artistic joys we owe to
her! Shall not things like these cornt, and
can the obstinate hostility of the minister
of Des Beau Arts prevent recognition OF
them?' There seems to be but one hope
for the great actress and her frfends-that
Is to see some less narrow-minded man
seated in the chair of Des Beau Arts-one
who will understand that. although she has
no class Of pupils at the conservatoire, our
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16
Excellent Cough Candy.

An excellent cough candy is made of slip
perry elm. flaxseed and sugar. Soak a gill
of whole faxseed IN a cup Of boiling water.
In another cup put broken bits of slippery
elm bark until 1t Is full. Cover this also
with half pint Of boiling water and let
1t stand for two hours. Strain the daxseed
and slippery elm through a thin muslin
cloth and save the liquid. Add pound and
half of granulated sugar to 1t. Boil this
and boil until 1t forms candy. Test 1t from
time to time by dropping a little In
cold water. The moment 1t Is done pour
it ON white paper, spread on biscuit tins
and let 1t harden. AS soon as it begins to
cool before 1t hardens crease it with a Knife
so that 1t may easily be broken Into lozenge
shaped candies
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16
Voluntary Well-Doing.
From the Mothers Magazine.

From the Mothers Magazine.
Children do many things that they are not
told to do. and many Of such things are
worthy Of little notice. You cannot hope
to direct child in all his doings that are
purely free will" on his part. Many Of
them you will not see or know Of until
done. If your boy has been kind to a play
mate, has been able to sacrifice his own
wishes that some other boy may have his
way" it will help to form and maintain the
habit of regard for others IL You tell him
that his action is known to you and that
you approve 1t. 1t Is always right to recog-
nize his voluntary well-doing. 1t is not nee
essary to tell him that he is better than
other boys. In fact, he should never be told
that or given to understand that. But if his
action Is In conformity with what boy
ought to be, it will not hurt him to know
that you know and are glad because Of the
fact. Tell your boy that you are proud of
him, mother. and he will think that you are
the best mother In the world, and that's q
good thing for any boy to think.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16
(aR5 S&eI3a@5 B5@&@zd

was of small white roses, nearly closed,
something like huge button roses. and these
rose little in the center and were sur
rounded irregularly by similar roses in pale
pink. These pink roses extended out on
the brim, and were close to the straw.
Green ferns were arranged fatty around the
edge of the roses, so that the latter looked
as though springing from q bit of greenery.
Under the brim loops of deeper pink rib.
bon that looked ike velvet were arranged.
These ribbon loops stood out from the hair,
edges of the loops showing. More pink rib
bon was inserted under the back brim. The
ribbon suggested La Roses in It's colorings
Miss Russells husband carried on his arm
a long. loose cloak of deep green broad
cloth. from which fell about the neck a
fiounce effect in green chiffon of the same
shade, and his long four-in-hand tie was
also green, almost matching the color OF
the coat
**
A very odd and quite fetching coat goes
with a. biscuit-colored broadcloth costume,
chiff0a broadcloth with high luster. The
skirt is circular in effect, Is Of round length
and plain. It fits like glove at the top.
the fuilness begins below the hips in the
graceful godet plait effect Of the circular
model The coat is rather close-fttng; that
Is, 1t clings into the figure without being
strictly tight-fitting. 1t has no collar, and
the neck opening extends In a narrow, elon-
SaCeQ v TO q point HILL way Dct"ceu Tic
bust Hne and the bet. Three wide tucks,
some two inches or Whereabouts wide, slant
from below the neck, the upper one or two
being above the bust line, down under the
arms. and across to the center Of the back,
where they join to form a deep V. Going
around the coat a little below the bust line
is narrow belt Of silk passementerie in
biscuit color and yeliows, and from this belt
flares at the side and slants down at the
back a little. set on faring section Of the
cloth, the lower edge of which comes to
the waist line. At the sides this little sec
ton Is held In a plat turning toward the
front by the coat bet or girdle. Where the
outer edge Of the plait folds begins the far
ing section lengthens out on each side into
q panel end much like those on the old style
directoire coat. These two panels, one on
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16

ter. parting and swinging loosely apart.
There is a seam some five inches from the
edge partially shaping the coat. and where
the coat rounds over the bust five or six
little tapering seams. like those used IN or
In making darts, slant In from the edge ana
where they end, about the center OF the
breast there Is an applique Of two crescent
shaped ornaments In shaded reds picked out
with silver, and at each end OF the crescent
are small. round medallions OF very dark
red velvet, and there IL a narrow. tapering
collar Of red velvet around the neck, ending
on a line little above the crescents, the
ends Of the collar slipping through. or rath-
er under. similar crescents. each ending in
a short. sashi.ke arrangement Of the velvet
The ends Of the velvet come a little below
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16

to match that city. 1t Is red serge. and the
skirt. Of walking length, Is laid in side
plaits that are loose. so far as their outer
edges go, from the hem to within very
few inches OF the waist line. OF course.
such skirt Is suited to tall thin figures
only, and this Is what its wearer Is. The
skirt Is perfectly plain.
The coat has pony back. bobbing up in
what would be ridiculously short-waisted
fashion on any but a TALL thin woman,
and even then, unless she possesses grace
and alas! that type seldom does. In this in
stance. however, the woman is slender
rather than thin. and has none of the
5erky. angular movements going with the
angular frame.
The coat fronts are quite new. They slant
down from the back and the underarm
seams. and then they round UP to the CEN
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16
THE FIRST FALL COSTUMES SEEN IN THE BOTS DE BoLoGNE

magnificent Sarah has trained by her own
intelligent guidance more pupils and actors
than any woman professor at the con-
servatoire will do in lifetime.
**
But to talk Of the fall fashions! The Rue
de Ia Paix and Rue Royale are Frightening
up and many motor cars are to be seen
standing before the doors of famous dress
makers. Smart Parisians are back at their
chateaux outside Of Paris and drive in each
pleasant day to consult their special artist.
And such delightful CONNECTIONS they are
/. turning out for their patrons! To one on
the inside workings of things sartorial 1t
looks like there would be a three-cornered
battle in the color world for supremacy be-
tween brown, blue and gray. For elaborate
afternoon costumes there Is a shade of light
tan with suspicion of pinky brown tones
in it that promises to be very popular
Paris, though. rather leans toward the gray
nuances. and very new shade Is called
''verre funie, or, in other words, smoked
glass.
AS to materials, broadcloth, retains Its
place as first favorite for best frocks
but there are charming new Venetian and
rep effects that are smart for general wear.
Very desirable, too, are the checked fab
RIGS. A treatment of these designs that
is most attractive Is the Introduction of
dots of deeper shade than the ground
work. They are not evenly distributed, but
are grouped III ltlle set nSureSr winch give
the checks a. lot Of character. AS usual,
this fall plaids are pushed to the fore. only
to retire gracefully into oblivion later on
in the season. For very young girls,
though, there are stunning costumes boast
ing plaid skirts to be worn with Jackets
of plain cloth built along the lines of the
Norfolk model.
Skirts for the most part are of the plated
variety, and one may now see them in all
adaptations Of this vogue. We may thank
Dame Fashion for one sensible veto, that
Of the circular skirt. It played such
pfanks before high modes as made the cou-
rsNeep. For hang it ever SO carefully,
the first wearing was bound to reveal dog
cared marks at the sides. Thank the pow
ers. all this Is at an end. Frequently there
Is a combination Of the circular and plated
model, but even In these the circular gore
Is so small as to entirely eliminate the pos
sibility of sagging.
Jupes are not quite as full this fall as
they were last winter but they show the
same flare and help the coats. which in a
number OF Instances follow the figure
closely, to set better. These little hip-length
coats, by the way, are mighty natty with
their tiny vests and saucy godet basques
Elton effects and boIeros have by no means
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16
For Babies on Sleeping Cars.

frOm UOOu uouSeheepinS.
When travelling with a baby in a sleeping
car insure good nights rest for yourself
and the baby, not to mention your fellow
travellers. by putting him to sleep in the
little hammock which is to be found In the
berth. .
This procedure Is practicable for all in
fants under one year of age and Is the only
absolutely safe sleeping place for them.
Provide yourself in advance with a piece
of cotton rope two feet in length With this
one end of the hammock is to be made fast
to the lower end of the chain or cable by
which the upper berth is suspended; the
other end of the hammock Is left on the
hook from which 1t usually hangs.
The hammock Is thus suspended diago-
naIly across the berth; now put in two pill
lows end to end. These serve the double
purpose of spreader and bedding. If the
hammock Is strung tightly it will swing
clear of the person sleeping below. and the
rougher the road the more the hammock
swings and the sounder the baby sleeps.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16

each side meet in the center front just be-
low the girdle, and remain In a meeting line
till below the waist and then separate ever
SO slightly; at the bottom they are perhaps
an inch and half apart. These coat ends
terminate at the knees. Outlining the coats
neck the seton section and the panels are
inch-wide bands of tan-colored satin worked
in Greek key pattern in gold thread. and
edged with tiny lines of brown velvet like
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16

NEW YORK, September Is. 1906.
~IE French delight In small, smart
coats of various sorts. either
matching the costume or in silk
OF some other material that
makes crisp, fancy costumes.
Most of those worn in Paris up to date have
elbow-length sleeves-that Is, they come
5ust below the elbow-whle few end half
way between elbows and wrists. and a still
fewer number have sleeves extending as
Gar as the wrists.
Some OF these coats are wholly Voose
Others three-fourths fitting; some are half
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16

had their noses put out Of Joint by a newer
style. Women know when mode Is kind
to them. and cling to It with faithfulness
worthy better cause. No. the bolero.
good luck to its modish little self. still APP
pears on the smart suits. and with II trot
In harness the three-quarter sleeve and
sweep-length skirt. At Drecolfs atelier the
other day I saw such a smart gown OF
navy blue chiffon broadcloth. The skirt was
long and plated In panels. At the bottom
appeared an effective trimming of white
opalescent braid, about two inches wide,
put on Greek key pattern. The bolero jack
ct was composed, save for the sleeves. of
rows Of the braid. A unique feature of the
costume was a deep girfle of striped green
and black silk cut on the bias and unlined.
which went around the waist and over the
position effect at the back In front this
girdle was adorned with an enormous de
sign, somewhat on the lines OF butterfly
with Its wings outstretched, and made of
dull silvery metal threads. 1t sounds BIZ
zarre and theatrical but I assure you IL
was a. smart and clever addition to the
costume. redeeming 1t from the sin OF conf
monplacenesS.
There are reflections of the empire styles
to be found In a number OF the handsomest
tailor mades. Notably the empire back af-
fected by shortening of the waist line OF
the coat rather than the use Of the empire
yoke. The fronts suggest more than they
outline the curves Oh tne DUST ana WalS-
line.
The question uppermost in the minds OF
most of us Is VIII sleeves be long or
short?" Knowing the unsettled state of the
dress market, l asked a noted dressmaker
here at the center of fashions to give me
a sure tip" Like many of these certain
ties, It's the dark horse that wins, but we
shall see what we shall see. The authority
quoted expects to witness three-quarter
sleeves on dressy toilets and long sleeves
on costumes where good. all-round service
is the chief requisite. As to sleeve styles
for house gowns. there is no reliable au-
thority in which a ghost OF prophecy may
be founded thus early In the game. Speak
Ing without the cards, one might venture
to predict that the short manche in three
quarter length will not be entirely out OF
the running.
We are assured that lingerie shirt waists
are to be as much worn as ever during the
coming ason. There is however, a de-
cided return to the dressy silk waist OF soft
taffeta The newest OF these bodices are
close-ftting, well boned and made with a
pointed effect in front. This latest wrinkle
the points sometimes brought about with
an added girdle. but the really swagger idea
Is to cut the waist itself into a deep, grace
full point directly in front
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16
Par1or Car Diversion.

From Puck.
Porter" said the fussy lady In the par
Tor car, CT wish you would open this win
dow"
!, The lady In the seat directly across the
car heard the request and drew a cloak
about her.
s'Porter II that window Is opened" she
snapped testify, 'T shall freeze to DEATH"
:. "And II the window. Is kept closed" re-
turned the other passenger. IT shall surely
suffocate."
Al The porter stood timidiy between the
two fires.
Porter" remarked the commercial tray
eler 'your duty Is very plain. Open the
window and freeze one lady. Then close II
and SURROGATE the other"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16
Curious Epidemic.

From lie Matfu.
Within one month 3.775 cases OF "suette
miliaire" were reported in the departments
Of the Deux Sevres Of the Charente, This
strange epidmeic Is characterized by ex-
cessive perspiration and eruptions in the
shape of millet seed. After each village
faiI there was a general recrudeseence of
the malady, the disease In some cases prov
ing fatal.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16

girl should be- taught to detest two
things thoroughly-idIeness and. aimless-
ness. These two enemies have given birth
to ennui. which is pain. II she be enild
of fortune instruct her, even more careful
ly than II she were poor. to work IA some
definite manner for pleasure'a OWN sake.
More than all, train her hands and stir her.
brain with the constant assurance that she
Will find her sweetest satisfaction in that
which she Is to accomplish in life.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16

ftting in the back and loose In the front.
and many partake of the nature of the
Oony coat.
A delightful little coat for long-waist-
I'D woman has arrived this side the water
Srom gay Paris in a color quite gay enough
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16
And Ha Did II.

From the. Baltimore. American.
"'Tis butt man." as the intelligent goat
remarked when he saw the lonely traveller
coming his way. III
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16

baby ribbon or velvet cord. Where the coat
girdie ends meet in the center front there
is a fiat four-looped bow without ends or
the satin, velvet and gold thread strips.
The elbow sleeves are rather close at the
top and flare at the elbow to show lining
of cream colored satin. They have bands
of the Greek key embroidery as finish.
X
Another little coat, forming a part of a
golden rown cloth costume, Is trimmed
with bands Of a far much darker shade OF
brown velvet ribbon. In three different
widths, an inch. inch and half and two
inches respectively, being the width of the
bands. This little coat is a cross between
a. semifitting box and a pony. and has a
smart little Waistcoat effect in pale green
broadcioth decorated with appliques Of
darker green, and having attached to 1t
about the waist line broad belt of brown
velvet The wastcoat effect is obtained by
projecting strips two inches wide of the
green cloth running from the neck TO the
bottom of the coat, with loops Of green silk
cord on the one edge and row of ball but
tons in brown crochet on the other.
Around the edge of the jacket itself runs
a band of the inch-and-a-half wide velvet,
but near the top in the front this band
turns back in straight line to the edge
Of the arm hole, and crossing over the
shoulders drops down, and then 1t con-
tinues in straight line across the back till
II comes within q quarter OF an inch OF
meeting the one coming from the other
side, when both turn. and. forming sharp
corners. they go down the center back, still
quarter OF an inch apart. to within four
inches of the bottom. Here the bands again
turn, and going around the coat meet the
front pieces of the same strips. The top
Of this band is about an inch above the
waist line; two inches above this another
velvet band an inch and. a half wide goes
to back. Starting two inches above this
upper strip are three strips Of inch-wide
velvet, the tops Of which are shirred in
whorl effect. The strips then run under
the two crossing bands and down to within
an inch of the lower edge of the jacket
when they turn obliQuely toward the front,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16

out Of sight beside some Of the tables them
selves, such. for instance, as those just i'm
ported that are covered with plush and
ornamented all over with the finest china
wreaths and tracings. The table top Is
fan shape, with a drawer across which
Cupid disports him in a golden world OF
roses. The tall mirror In heart shape has
a wide plush frame similarly bedight. Can
delabra in form of roses spring out either
side. The china legs end in golden claw
feet. The color scheme varies. Dull blue
china; red that has terra Gotta lights is
finished with light blue and gold.
A low seat something Ike a piano stool
goes with each table, and is as gorgeous.
So much by way of satisfying madameS
taste for the fine. For her use she will be
much better pleased with pretty table OF
solid mahogany or rosewood, or even OF
white wood, that has an oval mirror over
the center, with a smaller oval on each
side of it. Standing fiat, three in a row.
the mirrors are wonderfully decorated, but
beauty Is secondary to use. The smaller
set at any angle to show my lady if her
Psyche knot Is becoming or how the new
waves and tufts soften the lines that time
has drawn athwart her face.
Some of the larger tables have double
drawers on either hand and one especially
locker. whose carved doors are fitted with
fancy wrought iron keys.
An odd table had a fan mirror framed In
plush. and looking down upon gilt and onyx
boxes. 1t had novelty and costliness to
recommend It, but not much else-certainly
nothing to attract beauty-ioving eye.
The dearest little table of ali was of
curled. maple. fashioned to stand In a
corner. and SO neat and dainty as to sug-
gest New England women. .-.-.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16
TABLES AND TOILETS
ACCESSORIES CONSTANTLY MORE
ELABORATE AND COSTLY.

Away back in the time OF Addison and
the Spectator grand DANES both sides OF
the channel made their toilet almost In
public-not. of course. the first stages. The
bath was strictly private, and no eye but
her tire woman's beheld the sacred mys-
teries of inner garmenting. But when the
satin corset was In place and duly laced,
the Powered. frilled petticoat sweeping the
tiny hfgh-heeIed satin slippers, and madame
sat wrapped In her silk and lace peignoir,
slipping her chocolate and glancing through
her letters. or else examining the latest
puppet new-come from France to show
foreign DANES the latest styles of high
fashion-then all the Utmost modish world
came In to see and gossip with her. while
the hairdresser built her head, that was
maybe two feet high. AS the process took
hours, madame doubtless required all the
consolation of friendship.
Even so late as Lady Blessington's day
her blue and silver dressing room was the
center of social and half-political infiu-
ence.
However that may be, the toilet table,
especially IL its model is Partisan, grows
steadily in grace In costliness and in lux
urious appointments. Silver brushes, boxes.
trays and SO on, while not exactly bad
form, are no longer distinctly "swagger,"
that Is. unless they are enriched with gid
ing or the jewel-like Russian enamel. Chine
and burnt ivory sets are far and away
more chic.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-16

to call 1t. These ruchings extend half way
across the tops of the sleeves, or as far as
the plaits are stitched in. The coat IS lined
with white silk.