The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-09-13

pretty. Plaided skirts Will De worn with waists or jackets of plain material and vice versa plain skirts will be top ped with jaunty little coats of plaid or check.
 There are three very striking charac- teristics brought out in the new skirts' tkey fit more closely than ever ever the hips; they are long all around with a decided train on those designed for flaring, and very much betrimmed around the bottom. Nearly all of the designs will be built on Directoire lines. with the extreme of this mode carried out of evening gowns. By way of illus tration, one of the choicest models in a collection sent over for one of the opening displays of this month Is handsome tulle skirt over a teunaatlon of pompadour taffeta topped with plain silk bodice, with lace vest which forms an unbroken panel from bust to the hem of the skirt. This podlce, which really is a little coat, has a pep ium in circular effect.
 The wearing of thin gauzy materials over figured stuffs is a charming idea, and one which lends itself very adapt ably to the less expensive materials, organdies, light silks, mulls, etc. Panel effects will play an important part in tailor-made skirts, a smart fashion be- ing the arrangement of perpendicular straps, mitred, and sect on between the hips and knees. A tWo-piece skirt has a dozen inverted plaits on either side of a plain panel, back and front; and another design or similar order shows a triple skirt effect meeting a plain graduated front panel Each skirt is turned back where it meets the panel, and finished with three large buttons of smoked pearl.
 Flounces of the same or contrasting materials, frills and rufilings of all sorts, and all manner of band trim mings are to be used for garnitures. The bodice may not necessarily be of the skirt material, but it must show its relationship in some way, if only in the method of decoration. Ruffies of lace, silk, or velvet, bias folds slightly skirred, and ruchings are a few of the varied made trimmings that will be used this fall. There are some exqul, site passementeries, and these are most effectively utilized when the colors in the gown are carried out in them, which is not by any means as difficult a matter as it would once have seemed, the passementeries being especially de- signed for the purpose, Colored lace will be seen, but usually in combination with some other trimming; and black and white lace, the heavier kinds, will be more than ever popular
 Sleeves are always a matter of more or less moment, and will lose none of their importance this season. In even- ing frocks they are crawling up, while in less dressy creations it is a question only of preference. The latest model in the elbow length, a Paquin invention is moulded on the lines of the mandolin sleeve of a few seasons back and has a number of tiny gathers at the top with none whatever at the elbow or just below, where 1t is simply faced and opened for three inches directly on top with small buttons and button- holes set close together Undoubtedly this sleeve will prove the accepted one, and lend itself to the usual number of variations in the way of frils, under sleeves, bands and cuffs, long and short,
 Blouses have actually taken a new lease of life instead of expiring. as we have been expecting them to do for the last three years, and this fall they are bobbing up serenely, more secure in their popularity than ever. Those of net come first, dotted, spanged, lace trimmed, and embroidered They sometimes have little jacket effects, not like the erstwhile bolero, but regu- lar little jackets with two or three-lnch skirts. and they are very fetching when worn by trim, trig figure. To put on a blouse properly is an art, and judging from the majority of examples, as seen on the street, wellnigh a lost one, and to this fact, perhaps, may be attributed the attempted annihilation of the shirtwaist It is not enough that it be nice and straight and taut in the back and front, but the gathers should be carefully distributed so that they take on correct lines to the waist band and the waist pulled down smoothly under the arms. It is a capi- tai idea to arrange the waist properly with safety pins if hooks are tabooed. before drawing the skirt band over it, tEen there is no possibility of disar- no matter how much one moves about.-New York Evening Post.