Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-15

told US how many miles of pictures there
are. l forget whether 1t is twenty-four
twenty tx.
And not being a sprinter you were able
to see only about two and quarter miles
of art. Too bad. They should put a moving
sidewalk into the Louvre, or hire out bicy
cles, shouldn't they? Well have look at
the morgue, if you like"
A carriage is called. Be sure to address
the driver as ''cocher," not ''cochon" 1
am warned. The cocher is inclined TO be
jocose On being informed of our destina-
ton he remarks: You are not going to
leave me there, are you?' The cabman
was once a sort of reckless pirate who ter
rorized the world at will. He is celebrated
as such in all accepted chronicles of travel.
But he has been tanned. His spirit is bro
ken; his subsection is almost pitiful. How
they have equipped his vehicle with ma
chine called a taximeter, which records the
exact amount in francs and centimes due
him for trip has already been heralded to
the tourist world. There is no room for ar
gument. He may be brigand at heart,
but his power is gone and his pride laid
low.
The morgue is truly a bizarre experience.
1t is just beyond Notre Dame. which SO
wildly recalls the powerful romance of Vic
tor Hugo. Even this small stone house of
mystery and sorrow has its satire. Above
its portals are carved the words, liberty.
egalite fraternate" 1t is In this one place
that these three great ideals of French re-
publicanism are at last realized fully and
eternaliy. And gruesome as it seems. it re-
fleets the artistic sense of the nation, for
It's unidentified tenants. who await the rec
ognition of friends, are made up with
touches of color to look as much like life
as possible. AS they lie in the glass case.
which Is really a refrigerator, they seem TO
be not terrible; only unreal and waxen. The
orft fI-hn htC CHI In iy-ta
esting. He should be written about.
Il have written about him. says Heilig.
How oiten?'
But that was a professional secret.
Not far away is another place, far more
cheerful which the sightseer who follows
the usual programmed route is likely to
pass with only casual glimpse at It's outer
walls. The Place de la Concorde, the Opera,
the triumphal arches, the tomb of Ma
poleon, Versailles, st. Germafn st. Cloud
and dozens of other places cannot and
must not be overlooked But the Hotel and
Musee de Cluny form an unassertive corner
where only those who love old-fashioned
romances and quaint finger rings and out
landish bits of furnishing, "reminiscences of
Roman luxuries, kingly gallantries and mo-
nastic devotion will care to linger. Julian
the apostate was here proclaimed emperor
but all this and more is In the guide book.
The day wears swiftly on and the eyentful
hour of dinner brings new discoveries.
Gluttony IS surely the least of the seven
churches while sightseeing abroad. 1t is
demonstrated that the snail is capable of
being cultivated to gigantic size and pala-
table flavor, and that while lie homard is
Identical with the lobster provided from
the north Atlantic coast for America and
to some extent for European consumption,
la langouste Is as "a spiny and ciawless
creature of different flavor. The lam
gouste is taken from the coast of Spain
and is similar TO one of the Holsters
kinsmen thag is found In southern Ameri-
can waters The French prefer the lam
gouste. Many Americans do not.
A survey of the tables reveals the fact
that the crayfish becomes a giant of his
kind and has his place in the epicurean
fancy.
with mutton chop In expert kitchen
with proper repertory of sauces, and
there are Strawberries no bigger than the
end OF your little finger, each of which
with its expiring breath whispers of the
perfumed flowers that were once Its neigh
bors You may take your coffee alcoholi-
cally embellished II you choose outside on
the pavement, where chairs and tables are
abundantly provided. Here you may watch
the passing throng wonder at the hardi-
hood OF some OF the habitues who are pro-
longing "the green hour beyond it's pre-
scribed late afternoon limit. Absinthe Is
deiicately referred to In the restaurant an
nouncements as ''apera tif"
80
The postcard peddlers lay siege to the
easily recognized foreigner, first with offers
OF views of legitimate interest, and next
with satyr hints Of tho forbidden. Nesspa-
per vendors CRY their penny wares and
flower girls, all aged and unprepossessive.
OFFER nosegays ct fatrinusiy low prices. II
you do not Hike the hoWefs you do not Ike