The daily morning journal and courier., 1906-08-09

DresSes--YOIxes and Other Neck Fin
 ishlngs-The Rage for Bands and
 Folds.
 Tn the matter of dress, August de- mands more of those who make any sort of pretence of following the trail of fashion than any other month of the twelve, and the experienced woman, no matter what her resources always reserves her choicest Yrocks and her most fetching fads and fancies for this particular month, when. with the sum- rner at its height, there will be tho greatest number to witness her tri- umph.
 In spite of all the pleadings for more simplicity, the most recent importations show leaning to elaboration quite be- yond anything we have yet had. The f1lnay fabrics tended in themselves to suggest coolness and comfort, are often so berufied and betrimmed as to make them appear warm and heavy. And yet these strne gowns are very lovely, combining as they do. the best ideas of the entire spring and summer; and, if sometimes inconsistencies strike us with more than usual force, we must remember that inconsistency is not necessarily in harmony, at least, not in dress.
 One noticeable point about the Au- gust dresses is that their materials, even in the musins, are of better qual- ity than in past summers. The twilled delalnes. barred muslins, picot, weaves, and others of that class are seldom seen, probably, because of the popular ity of plain colors which should be used only in the better quality of goods.
 Mousseline de soie, first in cream, ecru, and butter colorti and then in the numberless pastel shades, is proving a favorite. but, in this, as in the others of the muslin family, the cheper of the to be avoided. ANsoft. silky mousseline two grades usually shown, Is distinctly of the deepest ecru tint was made with a. deep hounce, headed with bow knot pattern of white valencinnes lace. That Is, the insertion was put on in the lace made up the border and the howknot motiw was carried out in the bodice. The skirt was closely shirred around the hips and the shoulder seams in the waist were gathered un- whose ends were concealed by three small bows of golden brown velvet ribbon. The very high girdle was also of brown velvet, with three bows, one above the other, over the fastening at the back and herein is demonstrated another of the seasons foibles; namely, the wearing of velvet and other heavy gfrdles and belts with the thinnest gowns. If the dress is of plain mate rial. the girdle is elaborate. It may be of preceded, figured, or even spangled veievt, in which case 1t Is fade up as plainly as possible finished with plain metal buckle; or it may be of orna- n1ents, slides, and a jeweled buckle for trimmings if the dress with which 1t Is 10 be worn Is of figured material. or even If it Is plain and worn over a color. The girdle is always one of the most important adiuncts of the dress, a trim waiste" sounding the keynote to the whole costume.
 A handsome belt recently worn with an embroidered batiste was of velvet in one of the dull green shades, beauti- fully wrought with gold and black thread, and finished with a square buckle of tinted gold set with dull blue stones. Another, a girdle effect this time, but equally fetching, consis- ted of five shades of red velvet ribbon in ha1f-inch widths, the two dark ones k,r ,Ir;, 41, which formed a foundation for a very high and well shaped girdle. Instead of buckles, there were two long slides of silver, very narrow and beautifully wrought. which held the ends of rib- bons in front and furnished a menas of fastening and a single bar. shaped to the figure, in the back One thing is evidenced by these newest of belt ar- arrangements and that is that the waist line of the fall gowns is to be more clearly defined and the belts or girdles more shapely than we have had them for some time, and It isl not at $1l inn probable that this will lead to boning. As for that, though, certain of the Paris, modists and at least two of the leading fashion lights in New York have never left off boning, and one of the first two mentioned Is sending out the early fall coats with five bones in them, the longest ones in back and front being not more than nine inches. They are put in on a canvas girdle the bones extending above and below the waist line This, these authorities con- tend, is the most satisfactory method of preserving the French curves and the perfect smoothness which is as desira- ble in an outside garment as in dress.
 One of the most troublesome features and at the same time one of the most important to the making and wearing of very thin materials is the foundation slip. which this season Is become in- 1 dispensable. With. the preponderance | of frills, rufles, and general fufflness, a | perfect fitting underskirt and waiste are necessary to the preservation of the l long flowing lines of the skirt and the 1 graceful curves of the bodice and for | this reason the foundation should be mode expressly for the gown with | which 1t is to be worn. This slip may be made of any materials, null mus lins, heavy or light weight silks. but 1t l must fit perfectly and, needless to add, | be built upon the lines of the outside The idea of wearing one plain color ! over another Is a very pretty one, and i will prevail with evening frocks for the ! coming season Franboise over annie |