Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-25
GARNITURES AND STITCHING
Coiffures Continue Large and Done
With Rigorous Care.
TOQUES TILTED AND TRIMMED
Correct Partisan Toilets Seen on the
Boulevards Show Capacity for
Taking Infinite Pains.
Special Correspondence OF The Star.

Special Correspondence of The Star.
PARIS, August IS, 1906.
Somebody writes, please tell US of au-
tumn and winter trimmings; but the great
person to whom the question is put holds
up his hands: So
What a question-now! Garnitures?
Well madame. trimmings can be decided
only by cuts, and even models are not en-
tirely determined yet" Still monsieur con-
sents to talk a little. is willing to admit
after awhile that in the omnipresent bosom
OF the Paris maker all things are in
measure known. Pour commenser." says
Monsieur D., whose CONNECTIONS are much
sought after a rEstrange. trimmings de-
pend largely upon materials. Each indi-
vidual stuff requires its own treatment and
all succeeding modes influenced by
those which went Immediately before. Par
example, there is the robe empire, whose
royal children are very naturally cape
mantelets. and cape treatments of bodices.
These are likely to have enormous
vogue, all sorts Of little mantle arrange
ments being now much discussed by my
confreres.
These loosely falling wraps and garni-
lures. then, If they go with the public. can
not help but entirely replace the fancy
cut Is decided upon. all the trimming Of
the gown will be affected by it. In fact
SO much are new and individual models
now sought after that many costumes. es-
pecially those of tailor genre, are likely to
be made entirely by the cut
Behold says Monsieur D., here taking
costume of ashes of rose cloth from a
wardrobe, here is the robe empire as re-
incarnated by me. You see there is a
species of redingote properly short WASTED
with the shoulder covered by a small cape
The skirt of the redingote shows a shaped
hounce put on to effect a drapery look,
and under this at depth of six inches Is
seen the long plain bottom of the skirt.
What IS the trimming? The cut entirely
oui, enterement-for only stitching, in
handsome even rows shows besides"
Tailored gowns Monsieur D. went on to
declare, in pale subtly tinted cloths-some
In quaint old-time tints-were likely to
have much prestige for elegant winter
wear. With ashes of roses the old bride
gray" would be choice tint for these, the
toilets showing many styles Of close
and loosely fitting redingotes or corselet
shirts and elaborate little capes, which,
crossing at the front, would lie over lace
bodices. showing the ixy sleeves of these.
"A cloth toque-in the gown texture bien
sure, concluded monsieur. This is likely
10 be the smart headpece for such a
toilet Here ravishing little turban of
ashes OF roses cloth was shown by the man
milliner who then posed it upon the mar
velously coiffed head Of the beautiful model
who was showing off the gown.
Did madame see how delightfully."- such a
color became dark. pale wearer? And that
and as big as a dessert plate-how like the
apotheosis of coquetry. And then the
weight of this "couronne'' CROWN: a mere
feather, and the visitor lending a hand here
the charming bit OF millinery was indeed
found to possess the added virtue of ex-
trerne lightness. Reasons for this were
pointed out. First, the hat frame was OF
fns. uncovered wire. and next the crinklei
bit OF cloth used was of chiffon quality
and the merest scrap.
An Edpe of Eur
'Cloth toques to match cape costumes"
said monsieur, as a parting shot with his
adleu (Which came soon, for man mllliners
In Paris haven't too much time to talk)
will have In winter an edge of fur and
sometimes an animal head"
And smart muffs are to be much trim
med: the fat shapes largely to the fore and
decked at the outside with two or more
tails and heads. Quel fourure? Oh. mink
IL Russian sable can't be bought, for sable
you must know. will forever be the queen
OF furs.
But. apropos OF all this talk. nobodv
across the water can realize how difficult i
Is to get an audience at this moment with
any Paris maker of note The fashionable
season ending with the Grand Prix great
mlliners and dressmakers betake them
selves likewise to some summer resting
place. where new secrets are sought out
In charmed privacy. But the work In the
Paris atelier goes on. new things being re-
solved hurriedly for the birds Of passa ga
who at this moment crowd Paris to the
roofs. However. the shopping tourist Is not
so easily pleased as formerly and II some
times comes about that the big maker hi m
self must forego his summer vacation X he
wishes to trap elusive foreign coin.
AL aaeos the Rue de la Paix and st.