Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-02-18

OF green ostrich feather curling TO her
waist. She was heard to remark that she
fancied she was more noticed with her hat
on than without #. And / think she was
right, but etiquette was satisfied and there
is nothing more to say.
But at the moment there Is more interest
taken in the vagaries OF the spring and
summer crowns and wraps than in hats.
Contrary to custom the autumn ushered
In the biggest sartorial events OF the year
and 1t merely remains for the spring to
bring about variations Of these themes.
The princess corSelet skirt VIII be the
dominant note in jupes for the spring
months, and it has everything 10 recon-
mend it-neatnesS chic and novelty. Much
of its success depends upon the height 10
which it is carried above the waist. and
this should be guided by the figure.
At the outset OF the season 1t was Il
question with the elect IN the couturiere
world whether the princess Corselet skirt
would outlive the early days OF spring.
Now that the verdict Is in It's favor too
much stress cannot be laid on the impor-
lance of an accentuated shoulder breadth,
perfectly proportional hips and a smart
flow OF skirts at the foot lacking which
essentials both the princess and the corse-
let are doomed to the speediest extinction,
hut there is small likelihood, after all, or
there being much resemblance between a
model perfectly cut and one that Is sup
ported by pins and fake .contrivances.
In the CONNECTIONS destined for the Riviera
there is remarkable emphasis laid on the
short semi-sacl coat that Is little more than
bolero fitted with epaulet capes over
the sleeves or-what is equally new-a stole
end effect. Epaulet sleeves have received
the best Partisan recognition. also the short
shoulder capes on coats and boleros. To
pass on to the subject OF sleeves a glSnt
curtailed to conclusion between elbow and
wrist is the manche that stands forth dis
tinctive from the ubiquitous elbow pun. To
attach an elaborate sleeve to an otherwise
severe garment is distinct anachronlsm.
and particularly dislike a model that
boasts a full puff at the top attached to a
lower half of embroidery or lace, to which
complete bewilderment are added upturned
cuffs of velvet or silk. II is we'll though. To
be quite clear about the inevitable elbow
sleeve For day wear the elbow joint Is
mercifuly covered. md for dinner dresses
and ultra smart afternoon toilets the elbow
is just escaped, although softened by a pie
thora of tiny friliS There Is no sign OF an
attempt at a dropping ruffie. and for quite
full dress the tendency Is to Indulge in very
diaphanous draIed affairs that leave the
top of the arm bare.
The advanced showing of tailormade ma
terials bears evidence that the spring cloths
will be of smooth surface. Charming gowns
are made up in gray and GAVIN mixtures IN
these smooth finished cloths. and for the
present the homespuns and rough fabrics
are decidedly out of it. Checks that are al
most invisible and In two tones are ma
nipulated into attractive travelling coat and
skirt suits. A particularly chfc model has
its double brea Sted little Jacket made with
a collar of black velvet edged with a ruff
ne of Valenciennes lace. The new striped
goods are very inconspicuous and pretty,
with their hair lines of self color or OF
contrasting stripe In some SoDher tone.
Then there are dainty effects in herring
bone stripes in black on a neutral back
ground. Panama cloth and smooth finished
serges either plain or In checks and stripes
are well liked for the spring frock. Noiles
and eoliennes, too, are away up in the win
ming class.
There is new foulard that Is the dalntl-