Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-21
Hints From Paris.
Special Cablegram to The Star.

special CaDleSram TO Inc Star.
PARIS. October 2O.-Autumn fashions are
now full upon US. indeed. we may say that
the pioneer winter modes are already
cisive step that fashion usually takes is in
the department millinery, and this season
presents no departure from the general
| rule. AS was to be expected. the greatest
alterations lie in this direction Hats,
toques and even bonnets display remark
able and unique features, sometimes beauti-
full, but often quite the reverse. The best
milliners provide US with plenty of styles
to choose from.
The general tendency is to increase the
width; last spring, it will be remembered,
the inclination was in the direction of ex-
aggerated narrowness. The picturesque is
represented by the eighteenth century hat
and the small form OF Gainsborough or
Reynolds, both Of which are equally lovely
in black or glorious-colored velvets.
On the other hand, dress, that Is to say,
ordinary. walking dress, has not altered
very much. but it is an undoubted fact
that the sleeves Of the reception dress and
Of the fur garment de luxe are bigger.
Not aggressively so as yet but a larger
below the elbow. There is squareness
on the shoulder in most cases. though here
and there we find picturesque 1880 gar
ment with sloping flchu effect, the sleeve
and shoulder cut in one.
Skirts are still worn long. tight on the
| hips and flowing at the feet. They are.
| for the most part. extremely graceful. and
Wristbands are all pulled down in the front
and up at the back-a becoming line. which
| the Wise woman will not easily forego.
| As for Jackets and coats every length Is
worn. Fascinating little empire coats.
| iuted just above the waist In fur. both in
cloth and velvet are to be seen. as well as
| sac jackets, from the very short to the
very long. The tight-ftting redingotes
mostly reach to the ankles.
The tabernacle does not vary very much,
| and it's sleeves are cut for the most part
| to moderate dimensions. Plain, tight
fitting, double-breasted coats with velvet
collars and smart little braided sacs are
| worn with equal tmpartialtty.
| In evening dress again, except for q
wonderful array of coloring, there Is very
little change, and, Of course, there always
are new colors in the autumn.
| Greens and browns in every possible shade
predominant. but perhaps the most ex-
quisite color is dark wine or claret. some
| times melting into mulberry. Peacock-biue
Just a little crude and unbecomtng, Is also
| struggling hard for a place on fashion
list.
/ 1t is a season Of magniflcence in stuffs
and colors. The embroideries for some OF
the evening dresses are hand-done in gold
and silver. Wonderful colored stones are
worked therein, and although they are a
Joy in themselves, they fill the woman
with a moderate purse with sense OF
despair.
| AS have said, the greatest change Is in
millinery. The coiffure is still built up by
curls and pins to the hat, but the hair is
! not greatly waved; it has a certain SIM
plicity which is charming, especially with
the smaller and more piquant hat, an ex
ample of which may be mentioned. It Is
I of crinkled, wine-oolored felt, with a band
| of velvet in deeper tone, with clusters OF
shaded natural and wine-colored coq's
plumes extending over the crown and
springing out from a cache-peigne of shaded
| tulle.
| The picturesque hat of the day has q
fluted brim and L. In pale shade Of gray.
lined with peacock-blue velvet-a favorite
Partisan mixture-and a beautiful shaded
ostrich plume right across the crown
| sweeps in graceful lines on to the coiffure
| behind.