The morning Astorian. [volume] (Astoria, Oregon) 1899-1930, 1906-09-11
WILES OF THE CHEFS
BANQUET Tt0sITs ARE NOT ALWAYS
WHAT THEY SEEM.
81 Cod aud n Frcnch Cook Can Work
Miracles" - The Breast of One
isfy Twelve Kunary Diners,


isfy Twelve Hunary Diners,
1t has almost passed into a proverb
that many of the dishes served up In
cheap restaurants. where nothing Is
wasted. are. 10 put II mildly. mysteries.
But, on the other hand. most people
who patrouae fashionable and more
ambitious restaurants are generally
content to accept the menu for what II
Is said TO be- This blind trust Is some.
what abused, and the amount OF FAX.
ing which goes on today In some OF
the well to do establishments would
probably surprise those who are un-
initiated in the higher branches OF the
culinary art.
For instance, by the addition of veg
etable juice just before being dished
up cod outlets are. ut seasons when
salmon is very dear, set before Gus.
toners as salmon outlets and are,
needless 10 say, charged accordingly.
This deception according to an ex.
chef is wisely practced not only In
better clas restaurants, but also on
some Of the great liners.
Another rppuic- trick rs practiced
by the restau,,.,c,:r IN 70 serve veal
beef done up overnight In saltcd band
ages, while skillluI chef has very
little difficulty In palmiE1 or Catfish
for sole on cpcIres who pride them
selves on the soundncss Of their judg.
ment Of cooking.
On one occasion some time ago a
dinner for seventy-ive people was or
dered at a well known fashionable res.
taurant in the upper part Of New York.
A large consignment Of salmon had
been previously ordered but, to the
CONSERVATION Of the chef, the dinner
hour slowly approached and still no
salmon arrived.
In despair the chef, a Frenchman.
decided to take the bull By the horns"
and procure another fish to do duty for
the coveted salmon. Accordingly be
sat to work to turn cod cUtlets into salm-
on outlets, aud this rapid transforma.
ton was soon effected by an addition
of vegetable juice The walters. who
naturally were aware Of this whole
sale deception, were given express or
ders to report any complaints to the
chef at once. However to the Intense
delight Of the chef, all passed off well,
and on hearing that his subtcrfuge had
not been detected he geefully ex.
claimed, "Ah, cod and a French cook
can work miracles"
Green peas at certain seasons Of the
year are naturally luxury quite be-
yond the reach Of the man OF average
means, while even caterers for fashion
able hotels themselves frequently have
the greatest difficulty In getting a suf-
ficiently large quantity to meet the de-
mand. However to fake peas does not
offer any great difficulty in times Of
stress. and by adding vegetable color.
ing matter yellow peas are quite COM
monty served up as green peas along
with the duck and favorless new po.
tatoes, which more often than not
come from abroad.
Roast veal served with thick white
sauce makes, says well known chef,
a most satisfactory substitute for the
breast Of chicken. and therefore 1t does
not come altogether as surprise to
learn that the breast Of one chicken
has been known to satisfy twelve
hungry diners.
"The staff take good care of the
breast Of chicken" was the comment
Of a waiter who was being for the first
time 1nltiated into the mystery of how
to feed dozen people off one chicken.
Perhaps the cleyerest deception prac.
ticed by eminent chefs Is the art Of
manufacturing the lobster patty, SO
dear to the heart of the eplcure. This
apDetizing dainty would at first sight