Richmond planet. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1883-1938, 1906-02-03

water and sand poured IN. then packed
down hard around the root The
white mark shows how far into the
ground they were set. These trees did
not receive the care they should have
had. and they grew slowly at first
have dug up quite a number OF them
TO zee what they were doing. and in
every case thus far they have started
like those in the picture. Their first
effort seems 90 De a series Of tap-rooGs,
which dig straight down into the
ground. The bottom OF the root IN
der favorable conditions forms a cal
lus and then sends out roots Just
about like currant cutting. As will
be seen IN the picture these roots go
down. / have traced them until I
feel sure they reached nearly or quite
90 the water level ! take 10 that
the chief object OF this deep-rooted
system is TO supply water 20 the tree
That seems 20 explain why such trees
are better able 20 stand drought or
lack OF cultivation than trees with
most OF the roots close % the surface
/ am led by the appearance OF these
trees 20 argue that II a man expects
90 succeed with sod or mulch culture,
he should start with root-pruned
trees, and. II possible. get this tap
rooted system.
have dug up a good many trees and
have spent much time In orchards
where dead trees are being pulled out
These trees were all planted in
large holes. with long roots left on
them. and some pains taken 10 spread
these roots out without cramping them.
IN such orchards I have never yet
found a tree rooted as mine are. with
the large hole and long roots I rarely
nnd a tree with any useful roots much
below two feet from the surface. On
my root-pruned trees the tap-roots are
often six feet or more under ground.
OF course We all understand that the
best feeding roots OF the tree are in
the upper foot OF is inches. The fact
that under this system these upper
feeding roots are slow 70 start seems
to account for the slow growth OF
these trees for the hrst year or two.
Later, after the tap or what I call
water roots" are well fixed, the
small feeding roots come out from be-
low the crown OF the tree, and growth
comes rapidly.
This is the result OF planting In q
crowbar hole. ! do not practice II
now, but make a large hole. and leave
on more side root
Why? II this is a good thing why
give it up?
DO not give up the principle. but
modify IL. The crowbar hole is so
small that you can never be sure that
the air is kept away from the lower
end OF the root. IL is absolutely neces-
sary TO have this part OF the hole
packed tight-Otherwise the root will
not form a callus and will rot or dry
out Again, where no side roots are
left, the tree IS IL forms a head and
stops the wind will whirl about in the
hole. form a large opening at the top,
and often fall over. IL is possible
70 stake the little tree and hold it firm
Iy, but l think it better to leave
short stubs at the side OF the roots.
pruning them from the under side. We
thea dig a hole just large enough 70
hold the roots without cramping, and
pound and pack the ear-h solidIy
around the roots. In THIS way we DO
not get just the root growth shown In
the picture, bat we do get. thus far
at lest, a much deeper start than
where the tree is planted in a large
hole with long roots left on H. Thus
far I am unable to see any advantage
An making a great hole and leaving on
the roots, and every orchard / see Dig
out stiffers my faith in the root-prun-
ing method. / think any man who
knows much about trees will say that
such roots as have pictured are
more likely to ering water In time OF
drought than the surface roots which
ere found on most trees. This viii
explain why I compare a root-pruned
tree to clover. and a long-rooted tree
OF timothy. Observe the way these
est IN o dry time"