davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21
RUMORS FROM PARIS
The Midsummer Hat Has
Stamp of Fall Styles.
SMART LITTLE CREATIONS
No Longer Show the Perilous
Tits.
HATS IN ODD SHAPES
We Three-Quarter Coat and Long
Sleeve Are Return
ing.
SMART LITTLE CREATIONS
SHAPES

Special Correspondence of The Star.
NEW YORK. July 90 1906
u seems singular that autumn styles
should be shown in July, yet the first fall
openings are always at this time. The
fashions now displayed are tentative. Of
course. and are rather TO supply a need
made by worn summer dnery than to ex-
press the final edict Of Nine lie Mode.
SO. naturally, some consideration is paid
TO the still hot weather, and such new
things as are seen, and which began to APP
pear with the middle of the month, are
happily suggestive Of both late summer
and autumn.
The gowns put forth are mostly of dur
able materials and are indicative Of the
toilet which the smart woman would need
for October travelling or mountain wear.
Many smart little hats on the turban order
are shown with these. and so numerous and
sensible are these styles that 1t is quite
safe 10 assume that the round close hat is
to be one of fashions favorites. In fact q
number of the smarter of these small hats
bear the Paris stamp and word comes
from the metropolis of fashion that turbans
are much worn there.
The set OF this smart headgear upon
the lavish COiffures worn Is rather surer
more like that OF sensible head cover
ing, than II has been for a long time. The
prevalent turban shape is rather biggish
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21

by suitable and enhancing attire would be
to acknowledge herself no longer true
member of the feminine branch Of the hui
man family.
Her costuming. therefore, for morning or
afternoon visits to the clubhouse Is mat
ter of study and of intricate detail In the
first place, the Immediately fresh and
spruce garment is positively essential.
Hence, If the game of golf or tennis takes
place before lunch, miladi dons a smart
waist and skirt that can withstand the
mussing effect Of violent exercise. AS after
noon teilettes alone appear on the porch
after the midday hours. the locker in the
lady's room of the clubhouse must contain
some kind of sporting attire. TO be put on
for the hour or more spent on the links
during the afternoon, or while indulging in
the various water sports which have such
a deadly effect on sheer dlaphanous frocks
and perishabIe hats.
Very charming for the simple negIige
costume of the morning Is the thin silk
waist illustrated. Built Of very soft silk
in a dark shade, relieved by pinhead dots
in a lighter tone, the shirt waist is peculiar
ly adapted to Withstand perspiration, and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21

than small and with a medium high crown
and stiff outstanding brim. IL sets the head
squarely, with some slight understanding
at sides and back To I'LL IN the inevitable
spaeeS
The new autumn touch comes In with
the Use OF solder straws than have APP
p,sared during the summer. showing a. glls-
tenfhg satiny sheen, with trimmings of
velvet ribbon, quilts, wings and even half
BIRDS These last decorations are made
Up OF the head aud wings or OF made
head OF some extraordinary nature, with a
floating tail of the same hybrid description
for the lift.
Peacock Ornament
One OF these wild and beautiful orna-
ulsrts consisted OF a peacock head with
VIVID red eyes and square spreading
tau OF paradise plume. IN which a few pea
cock feathers had been mingled. The eolors
IN ell this were the natural iridescent pea
cock green's. which the dyed paradise plume
matched exactly. The turban was OF fancy
black straw. with green velvet brim and
crown band.
9amecock and pheasant heads and tails
are put on In the same way at the left
side Or front of the hat. whose undartrlm-
ming balances whatever line these take.
Most beautiful are the fancy quilts seen
upon these hats and which are so wide and
artisttoally decorated as to be In some In
stances the chief trimming. One or two
OF the quilts are used in coniuncticri with
4 velvet or satin rosette, this placed s,nartly
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21
What Every Girl Can Do.

Every girl can do one thing we'll If she
will only take the trouble to find out what
that thing Is. The difficulty is that she Of
ten looks in the opposite direction; she
wants to do something great and snowy or
nothing at ali. But there are other talents
within her reach IL she will only look, and
these talents may be such comfort to her
IN her dark hours that they will make life
better and happier both for herself and
these about her.
1t is the girl who does things in this world
who is attractive both to men and to her
own sex. You may not be able to do great
things, TO paint great pictures or to sing
In grand opera, but you can learn to make
bright little things for yourself and your
friends, and perhaps to play the light,
ca tchy" airs of the day so that your
friends will enjoy them. and If you can't do
anything else, cultivate the art OF talking
brightly and of being sympathetic
The girl who puts her own griefs as much
as possible aside-who taxes wholesome
interest in dfe-is happier herself and
makes those about her happy.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21

Cloth. serge, chsyiot. and panama were
recognizable materials IN these with plain
surfaces or surfaces 50 highly notified as
TO look plain at distance outnumheriilg
patterned stuffs. Tiny checks, we are tod,
and large plaids cut bias will be worn but
the plain material viii be thought sniartest
with braid and stitching for ornament
Plain and Limp.
Effects of d trinity tailored sort are much
to the FORE the beautifully cut skirts OF
many of these being perfectly plain and
failing with limp. riding habit grace. Or
namental vests and collars, cuffs ana hip
pocket flaps are smart decorations for the
coat. whose sleeves. nine times out OF ten,
are very small Sometimes the skirt OF a
hip length or three-quarter coat Is slashed
to the waist, narrow stitched bands or
others OF velvet ribbon or braid forming a
ladder trimming across.
slack, hunters green, Imperial blue
smoke gray and the creamy brown mention
ed are the tolors most observed for first
pfacticsl wear. Headgear will accsrd In
color or else brilliantly contrast-red, blues
ana green's going with black and black be-
ing thought always suitable with color.
BLACK ana white, by the way ID likely to
De revived as smart combination for
many imported models show thxn scnanae,
great vogue. too, II predicted for silk
as GOWN material. and Some weayvN now
being exploited In superb trocks have much
OF the old heavy eplendor, whinh looks
IN II the sost cltnging textures @ l6esG en-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21

ployed are to give way to more stately
materials.
But one can only promise at this early
date, and however much fashion may pro-
pose it is woman who will dispose One
thing, at least, is certain, women have be-
come too sensible in matters of dress to
set aside becoming styles merely because
they are a season old, and SO improvements
and variations on old loneliness are more
calculated to be the thing in the near future
than the perfectly new and less becoming
thing.
Suit Costumes.
Suit costumes are likely to outnumber
all other toilets on first autumn days. The
complete suit is far smarter than the odd
coat and with change of hat and other
accessories 1t can be made very elegant
For evening wear the odd coat is indispensa-
BILE, and such sorts as are offered for this
use continue to be charmingly frivolous in
matter of material trimming and cut, the
iauntest little models of lace, silk, satin
and chenille and velvet-run net comprising
some of the exhibits.
These are mere trifies of coquetry, of
course but some degree of warmth Is OBJ
tanned from the thinnest model, as light
silk lining and chiffon interlinings are en-
ployed.
ravishing little coat for theater or
any other smart evening use Is more than
worthy of description. This was of wide
bronze velvet ribbon and insertion of Irish
with the lovely art of the Partisan maker,
. these materials shaped sort of little pony
jacket, mounted on bronze chiffon, and dis
played with an Irish lace gown in the ochre
tint. In the bodice of the ravishing lace
dress pure white chiffon was employed for
beoomingness frou-frou f1ounces of this
also showing under the wide sleeves.
Valenciennes and Cluny.
With another lace evening gown, white
ValencIennes and cluny comprising It. was
shown perfectly plain cape OF coral cloth
in cavalier shape. Capes of various
Iergths-manteaux cavalier-are much dis
cussed by the French writers, who speak
OF velvet and old satin (satln of the one
time board thickness) as being eminently
mod!sh.
AS for the princess cut for both gowns
and coats, 1t is not now likely that ii will
have the distinguished vogue 1t has for
tces a French Journal. ARE still much on
the tapis here, but the new coats show the
waist line where 1t belongs. In fact, there
is a faint danger of the low dropped girdle
again, so long-waisted seem some OF the
toilets by comparison with the under arm
waist styles? But who knows?
VINO knows anything, fer that matter, of
the vagaries Of Dame Fashion or the ca
prices Of womani The empire styles have
proven their impractlcability for the ma
jority of wearers, but the woman enhanced
by them Is not likely to give up a becom-
ing style without a struggle.
So for tea gown and house use they are
sure to remain still long while in favor.
In the pictures here given are shown new
gowns, hat and blouses put forth by good
makers. The blouses, which display a dis
tinctly tailor essence, are Of silk, cloth and
flannel They are fitting accompaniments
to the gowns and hats, both of which are
suited TO the first practical needs of au-
tumn. MARY DEAN.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21

larity this summer. doubtless because of the
early and probable late fall craze for gray
skirts and coats, with which a gray sweater
looks so stunning on damp and chilly days.
And now a word as to the lovely frocks
in which lovelier damsels appear as soon
as the intense heat of the day is practi-
cally over-that is, OK clock and after. Chit
fon linen and muslins of most effective
pattern and make are foremost in favor
Polka dots are everywhere in evidence
while as modish trimming polka dot ma
terial shares honor with applications of
silk or ribbon.
Made in One Piece.
Take, for instance. q cream-colored linen
gown made in piece from shoulder to
hem. With the veriest caps for sleeves
and a circular low cut bodice the frock
is slipped on over deep yoke, which shows
elbow sleeves of oriental lace set off by
medallions. The unique part of the cos
tune Is, however. the shaped bands of
mountain-blue dotted cambria which encir-
Gle the upper part of the waist and caps
and finish the skirt in the form of deep
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21

hem. The same material on boned lining
swathes the waist and is saught at the side
IN long dog-ear ends that stand abruptly
up and down from~a fancy buckle.
Where ribbon or silk effects the trim
ming of the afternoon gown, It Is usually
as an edging for the many rufaes which
go to make up most of the seasons thin
frocks. Even when silk is used Il is applied
to give the effect of heavy bands of rib
bon. From an artists standpoint the rib
bon edging forms a dark outline which
gives character to very light transparent
fabrics. Bows to match are also employed
with delicate hand to apparently catch to-
gether the seams of apron skirts. and the
eoduette never fails to have them also at
the elbow of her puffed sleeves.
Linen Top Coat.
When The trip to the country club is made
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21

in carriage or automobile, the linen coat in
evitably accompanies a costume whether II
be IN the morning or afternoon : As
consequence, lovely creations-con Jinations
of embroidered linens and lace-are very
much in evidence on the club house porch.
One which bears especial description caused
marked comment from the feminine con-
tingent Of certain suburban country club
last Sunday 1t was built of medium weight
linen, which had the gray whiteness of
ancient weave, and was covered all over
with open ring dots of eyelet embroidery
Hanging loosely in box effect well below
the hip line 1t showed all the lines Of the
seasons smart coaching coat, the exquisite
material stamping 1t at the same time with
the refinement and elegance OF dressy
wrap.
Fashionable mammas, as well as the
younger sporting set, make the country club
their daily or semi-weekly rendezvous. and
their small children come in for no small
share of smart dressing themselves. The
prevalence of housekeeping hats and one
piece frocks starched to a turn Is notice
able among the little ones The latter in
variabIy show low-cut necks and short box
sleeves, with simple band trimmings OF
machine-like embroidery in bold design.
The wide brims of the white canvas or
straw hats are caught back at the side or
the front in nohby and careless fashion,
either by black velvet bows and quilts,
inyisibiy by thread and needle, leaving the
hat quite plain, save for the self-tone silk
binding and band.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21
SMART HAb|LIMENT
Up-to-Date Needs for Your
Country Club.
COSTUME REQUIREMENTS
Carefully Fitted Silk Shirt Waists for
Golfng.
ROUGH RIDER CANVAS HAT
Muslins and Chiffon-Linens Are in
Evidence on the Porch After
O'Clock.
ROUGH RIDER CANVAS HAT
Written for The Star by Katharine Anderson.

Written for The Star by Katharine Anderson.
Some part of every day in this summer
of 1906 is being spent by the fashionables
at their favorite country club, and the
question Of dress for this outdoor social
life has become one of vital interest II a
woman ever appears to good advantage It
Is when surrounded by natures softening
green, with the breath of summers soft
breezes tanning her delicate skin into a
pink and white glow, and to neglect the OPP
portunity of setting off these telling charms
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21
The Gardeners Victim.
n the Cleveland Plain Dealer.

From the Cleveland Plain Dealer.
William James Corners, the Buffalo news
paper proprietor and freight contractor, has
a beautiful home out the edge of the
city. His house Is surrounded by many
acres of lawn. A year or so ago his
gardener planted foliage plants on a slope
of the lawn in great letters that spelled
William James Corners" Dear men'
said one Of the social leaders of the town
as she was driving by, peerng through her
lorgnette, "the poor man must think he is
a railroad station
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21
Either High or Low.

room In the clubhouse locker. which is
never over spacious.
Either High or Low.
The collar for these china silk waists Is
either & high turnover. as In the case of the
one pictured. or Hike the popular linen
bodice for sporting purposes. It is cut low.
with wide sailor collar effect that may or
may not be filled In with a aickie The
latest wrinkle, by the way, for the tailored
white linen waist. with Its elbow sleeves.
designed especially for golf or tennis. is to
have 1t finished with turnback collar and
cuffs In deep Lavender, blue or red linen or
duck. and further adorned By long silk
or cotton tie to match.
As to skirts to accompany the sporting
shirt waist. tub materials are decidedly the
most popular. They are made unusually
short this season. and many girls who pur-
chased wash suits before this fashion was
inaugurated. have either had their skirts
shortened by dressmaker or. when occa-
sion demanded, they have themselves taken
an invisible tuck above the hem. All the
really ynodish skirts too, are trimmed with
buttons outlining a panel In front or con-
cealing blind opening where the front
seam Ia fastened together with snap hooks
and eyes. And here. too, the girl who would
be up to date can find suggestion for I'm
proving last years linen or duck skirt by
the addition OF large pearl button trim
mings.
Swagger Thing.
White canvas hats, with little or no trim
ming. are the swagger thing to protect del
fcate compiexions from the mornings beat
Ing sun, and the more careless and uncou-
yentionai their makeup the better do they
please the typical sporting girl. Shoes are
of canvas, matching the white or linen
shade OF the stockings ard skirt above
them.
For the cool day at the club each girl
has her knitted sweater tucked away In
her locker. The new model is loose and
jacket-iike, and built of very lightweight
yarn. Pearl and silver grays lead in popu-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21

at the left and the quilts emerging from IT.
4 French turban seen in new and hand
some brown-a shade with a soft unge or
cream-was evenly trimmed at the sides
of the front in automobile fashion, with
huge owl heads in notified brown, q
bristly knot of satin ribbon in the hat color
standing between them.
Satin ribbon OF stiff and rich quality
is much employed, and made into rosettes,
which are ornamental as roses, It may
form the entire trimming of some dapper
model for hand use. Black turbans OF this
sort, or others trimmed in a similar way
with velvet ribbon, are much sought af-
ter, such a hat has all the requirements
for autumn use and may appear upon the
hottest day without loss OF charm.
Big Ones, Too.
Along with these first small hats are
displayed some so big as to warrant the
belief that large chapeaux are again to be
revived. These have none of the periIous
tilt of The odd little hats which have had
such a vogue, though brims are bent in
many fantastic shapes to lift sharply At
the left side or back or undulate all round.
The pretty habit OF wearing a hat with
a low evening dress continues so as the
large hat is more suitable here than the
small one shapes are likely to become pic
turesque in the extreme. But for thea ter
use small hats and headdresses are dis
CuSsed by French authorities. Apropos of
one much discussed hat ornament a Paris
correspondent writes: The scandal of the
aigrette, the possession of which entails
both the death of the mother bird and
her young. must in time DO away with these
charming ornaments entirely
Already the really grande dame (great
LADY, refuses even the tniest one for nrr
ball or theater couture, So milliners are
compromising with imitation aigrettes
which are made of split ostrich with the
curl thinned and artifcial,y trimmed ard
the ornament cut in a square brush. Al
grettes of silver and gold wire are also
being seen, set in a jeweled cup, or emery
ing from q tiny bow OF silver or gold rib
bon.
Small Theater Hats.
The dimensions of the theater hat are
also said to be sharply prescribed in Paris.
The tiny toque of flowers or gilded tulle is
scarcely more than a hair ornament and
bandeauX of a very fragile and fairy sort
are stiIl further approved. These consist
of cIrclet OF gold silver, ribbon or velvet,
with side lift covering wreath of orlA-
ments. One theater bandeaux eIoquently
described was a crelet of gold, trimmed
with a wreath of jeweled dragon flies.
Wrea tbs of plain ivy and of gold and sill
yer leaves are also given as evening hair
ornaments in Paris
But to return to autumn things. and
come to the first street gown. 1t looks SIS
# the short loose coat so triumphant this
summer is to be largely replaced by the
three-quarter length, fitted paletot Some
smart street toilets of imported makes,
shown by a stylish maker, all displayed
close coats with skirts of varying length.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21
HOW, WHEN, WHERE
WARNINGS FOR THE GUEST AF
VACATION HosTELRY,

The ever-growlng popularity of summer
hotel life has simpnhed some problems or
existence, but, on the other hand Il has
complicated matters IN a way truly bewilder-
ing to the truly inexperienced person ,aklng
up residence for the first time in a fashion
able summer hosiery The What to do
upon all occasions IS the frantic question
asked by the unlnltated. who, like true
Americans have a horror OF appearing at
a disadvantage. The only way to get an
answer to this question is by hong expert
ence. or. as few Of US have time 10 acquire
that by being told. 1t Is hoped that these
paragraphs viii save many a social brutse
and embarra ssIng moment
II you are going to a hotel In the height
Of the season do not ask for reduced rates.
You will be laughed at for your expecta-
tons Rather select q hotel whose rates
come well within your purse without
stretching the strings too tightly for your
hotel bills viii be only part OF your ex-
penses. Never make the mistake Of going
to q hotel without money sufficient TO re-.
all the servants who serve
The question OF fees is the most trying
one 10 the ambitious sojourner at hotel.
The main point TO remember Is: when in
doubt. tip. The people who serve you hold
It in their power to make your stay happy
or miserable. so dispense coins from The
head waiter dawn to buttons" If you are
staying by the week, fee weekly; If by the
day, fee as you go. The size of the tip de-
ponds upon the hotel. If you are not GER
tain about this matter ask in a very quiet
way an approachable person what Is the cor
rect thing in this particular hotel. At the
usual hrst-class hostelry a dollar a week
to the waiter who serves two of you is
sufficient, twenty-five cents each dinner.
This may be left under your plate holding
the finger howl
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21

room In the clubhouse locker. which is
never over spacious
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-21

When The trip to the country club is mat
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1906-01-12
LEW|SOHNS To
FORM COMPANY.
From New York the Story Comes
That They are to Take Over
Tennessee Copper.
MERGER SCHEME PLANNED.


According TO New York paper OF
recent date the Lewisohns Brothers
nre figuring ON the formation Of a
company into which nl their mining
interests are to be- merged
There Is local Interest In this item for
the reason that the Lewisohns are own
ers OF property In this state. They are
extensive shareholders IN Bingham
mines and, besides have other possess
sions, notably the old copper plant IN
North Salt Lake and a copper property
IN Boxeder county upou which has
been expended good many thou
sands Of dollars IN development.
or the proposed company the New
York paper says:
Through the Organization In New
Jersey on Friday of the Lewisohn EX-
plnratlon e Mining Co.. with a nOm-
inal capital OF 5000. Information came
10 light yesterday concerning the plans
Of the LeWisohn Brothers FOR the for
nation Of new S50,0000oO mining COM
pany. The capital Of the lewisohn Ex-
ploration " Mining CO.. Wil shortly be
Increased to about this amount. and un-
der this t,le win be merged various
copper and other mining companies in
which the Lewisohns are Interested
The general scheme, II ls learned. is
similar Ia that Of the Guggenhcim EN-
pIoration Co, which has attained prom
inenco because OF It's successful opera
lions IN mining property.
Associated with the IeWisohn Bro
theirs M this new enterprise are import
mt conner interests In R0gtgn closely