davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-09
.Hdnd painted
Chiffon Gown

mented with many ruffles Of the fowered
fabric. A pale mauve with a pattern or
pale blue morning glories in painted bands
Is exquisite in coloring, very light and
dainty In biue chiffon, with the bands IN
pattern of pink roses. such d gown would.
be enchanting r-s -,s- sls'
Pale gray chiffon made up with Powered
chiffon and bands of lace is also a favorite
combination for a summer evening gown.
The gray should be a very light shade, and
beside the bands of lace there should be
numberless small ruff1es edged with mar
row Valenciennes lace. Like al thin TAB
RIGS, chiffon seems especially appropriate
for summer gown, and in spite OF the
countless seasons in which 1t has held sway
1t is as popular as ever, while fowered ana
figured effects are both new and charming.
Silk muslins that look marvelously ake
chiffon are being worn, and the lowered
patterns seen in this fabric are beautiful,
giving much the same effect as the dam
test chiffon, but with rather more body.
They are made up over colored silk Innings
to match the flowers in the design and are
trimmed with narrow lace. The different
varieties of fine muslins. plain and en-
broidered. are sold more for summer even
ing gowns, and some modefs are deliberately
trimmed with Powered silk or ribbon. one
fayorite model has bands of the silk that
form bretelles over the shoulders, crossing
in the back and finishing with long sash
ends The most delightful color combina-
tions are worked out in this style. A pale
gray chiffon or muslin, trimmed With gray
taffeta, flounced with pink or yellow, Is
prime favorite, while another design In pink
and blue is popular. Rather novel idea
this season, and one that is popular also. Is
to have a Powered muslin or chlnon gown
trimmed with lace entire deux and under the
entire deux a lining of chiffon the exact
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-09

tergreen leaves and sweet birch, is little
creeper of the messy woods and peat Dogs.
Its berries, as the name would Imply, are
snow white. Thoreau regarded IT'S oVate'
evergreen leaves as the best Of all the SUD-
stitutes for tea and wondered that stney
were not more gathered and sold In the
shops He and his Indian guide made daily
use of them to replace tea When Tdhpiis
in the Maine woods.
An amber-colored jelly Is sometimes MADE
from the berries Of this plant and has a
spicy, delicate favor. Indeed, IN places
where the berries are scarce 1t Is regarded
as a very great luxury and served for &C.
casions when the fatted calf is slain, LOT
where the snowberry grows sparlngly
whole day might be spent in gathering a
quart Of them.
The use of sweet fern as a substitute for
tea has been so general in times past as TO
win for 1t the secondary name OF noun
tain tea. Its growth is thick and generous
on sterile hillsideS and its aromatic proper
ties can be scented from considerable dis
lance It was one of the popular substi-
tutes for tea during the war Of the revoiu-
ton.
chance with those of the winterberry, Is
particularly pleasing to the taste ana slim
ulating when taken very hot. II mas re-
freshed many party when weary with WITH
camping out exertions or when tired ana
dusty from a long country walk.
The tea made from boneset has long since
been a famous drink among the country
people OF America IL ID not tdkeN' N.Y."
ever, as the friendly cup that cheers. but
rather for the purpose of doing distinct
good to the system tormented with chills
and fever or any DISAGREEMENT causing the
bones ito crack" The tea is drunk in am
pie quantity for their resetting, as it's name
Of boneset would imply. Boneset tea is not
a tasy drink. 1t Is one of the kind that Is
forced down the throat while the nose is
he'd closed. It's reputation, however. is
that of causing new vigor to flow quickly
through the system.
Happily for those who partake of this tea
the range of the plant is general all over
the country. It's small white flowers grow
closely packed together In fat punches
while its long-pointed leaves appearing
from opposite sides of the stem clasp about
it at their bases Throughout the summer
It grows Justify in waste soil and along
most roadside banks.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-09
Empire Rajah Coats.

From Vogue.
Rajah coats, long and short. are COM
Portable and popular to slip on when
leaving tennis courts. They afford the
right sort of protection after the game.
and answer as well, If long, to shield one
from the dust of motor driving homeward
bent. They are to be seen in all shapes
and styles. in the natural and dyed colors,
as we'll as in white. Besides the simple
styles Sd much in favor a very go ID
model has loose fronts, with half-f1tted
side pieces from shoulder to bottom IF
skirt. all In one. Plaits or gathers across
the wais. line, ending in full skirt, are
Joined to these side pieces, while the
space above the gathers or fine plaits con-
ssts Of tab inset also into the upper
portion CT the side pieces. In pale law
ender shade of blue, coat on this order
was trimmed with fine soutache braid
ing matching in color. A narrow rolling
collar with long front facings was braid :
ed in the same style. and so was the
lower part of each coat sleeve which was
cut into tab effect crossing the arm.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-09
Slavish Imitation.
From Vogue.


la femme elegante ne suit pas la mode
ellie la fuit," Madame de Girardin once said.
and this sums up very we'll the difference
between the French principle of esthetics
as applied to dress, and the American. The
Parisienne of the greatest elegance and best
breeding docs not follow the fashion-she
runs away from it," while the American
follows it so closely, neither getting ahead
nor falling behind, that each smart woman
resembles the other to a tiresome degree
hats, wells, cravats. belts. shoes. street
gowns, opera gowns. all SO identical save
in color, ma terial or detail, that one some
times wonders despairingly IL American
women have no taste of their own-are
ashamed to show any individuality In
fact, 1t is bad form to have individuality
in dress-you make yourself conspicuous.
you presume to criticise the taste of other
women in differentiating yourself from
them, you simply reveal your own vanity!
American little girls who are born with
taste for dressing up are quickly taught to
take every pain In the world to conceal
their own costume. and to walk demurely
in the path Of fashion, that they are to
tread even when old age shall bring
calm, meditative philosophy that should
then be properly expressed in their garb.
as the brides wardrobe properly expresses
springtime gayety and seductiveness. The
consequence Is the American woman is avn
fully smart, awfully we'll groomed, awfully
coldly, delightfully."- pretty, but her clothes
do not express the charm and wit that
lies revealed in every line and fold of the
costumes Of certain Parisienne grandes
DANES
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-09

most occasions. A beautiful satin skirt for
wear with black or gray and black dinner
frock Is shown in the illustration. 1t Is of
gray satin, having deep founce, over
which Is a flounce of gray chiffon. On this
is appliqued a decoration OF black Chantilly
which follows the shape Of the flounce in
design A row of circular motifs of black
Chantilly heads the top of the founce, and
around the feet are two shallow but very
full rufies of the gray chiffon edged with
narrow lace
Jet is somewhat used to accentuate the
design of black lace trimmings on such pet
ticoats.' On all back skirts OF in white sat
in skirts trimmed with black lace, which
are frequently worn with black dinner
frocks. band Of jet skillfully put on is a
distinct addition to the costume.
Although white satin brocade. peau de
sole and similar fabrics are chiefly used for
evening petticoats. many women prefer all
of their finer skirts to be of wash ma teriai.
and indeed nothing is really more Satisfac--
tory with a fine dress which has a silk DROP
skirt than the beautiful handmade batiste
and linen skirts which are the pride of
every woman's wardrobe. OF course, for
evening skirts the material must be so sheer
and fine as to make the garment almost as
delicate as chiffon. For this pu, pose both
batiste and handkerchief linen are used.
The skirt must be perfectly fitting, tremen-
dously full around the feet and every
stitch made by hand Quantities Of lace
and carbohydrates lace and hand en-
brodery of the most skillful sort-are also
necessary If this skirt is to be the ideal
garment of this sort. The batiste skirt
shown In the picture is one of the simplest
possible for this style of skirt. II is trim
med with squares of eyelet embroidery.
Valenciennes insertion and tiny pleated ruff
fies of the batiste. A ribbon tied on four
bows is run above the flOunce.
A more elaborate white petticoat is also
shown In the picture. 1t Is OF white satin
with tremendously wide founce, which
extends around the feet In a perfect swiri
81 vta1 hoo NJ
fiounce set with a number of little ruffies OF
pleated silk. and over the founce of satin
there is a chiffon fiounce trimmed with Val
enciennes and Irish lace application. The
Irish lace is put in wall Of Troy pattern
around the top and a wider band of it is
put straight around the bottom. In be-
tween, with space on both sides, the
Valenciennes trimming Is used.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-09

ton of chiffon and silk grenadine gowns.
These satin brocades are also advocated for
coat Innings.
Something very new in a silken fabric Is
plaid crepe 1t is shown in Pompadour pat
terms, white creepy backgrounds. with the
most fascinating of white silk stripes and
big flowers in pink, blue or yellow scat
tered carelessly over it. For the long
scarfs, which will continue to be fashion
able, this gauze-like fabric will be much
used, and It will also make exquisite gowns
and separate waists.
Another one of the new plaid crepes,
which is made without the Powered pattern,
initiates In its weaving expensive needle
work, such as shirring. etc. This is shown
in the loveiest shades of cfel blue, cham
payne and the faintest of coral-pink tnts.
Messalines. satin radums and the fine
satin-finished taffetas are all to continue in
vogue. A pronounced fashion fad is the
favor shown in black silks.
What is known grandmother silks are
to be all the vogue, especially in soft black
taffeta, showing a small brocaded black
figure.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-09
Manv silks Will Be Worn.
the Woman's Home Companion.

From the woman's Home Companion
For evening costumes and dressy day
gowns, and also for wraps. silk will be con-
sidered particularly smart In style. The
new silks are extremely soft and lustrous
and Of nature to drape artistically. But,
though silk is to be counted among the
fashion leaders of the coming season. yet
the tailor-made silk suit. consisting of skirt
and coat. which has been SO fashionable all
through the spring and summer. will be
considered the latest In style for early fall
wear On the other hand. though black
and-white striped silks have been fashion
able this summer, they will still continue to
be in high favor. Many of them will show
the stripe broken here and there by the
introduction of a printed Pompadour de-
sign, an empire wreath or some small con-
ventionalized pattern.
Exquisitely printed satin brocades scat
tered with large flowers. so beautifully
printed that they have the effect Of hand
painting, will be much used as the founda-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-09
Freshen Old Gowns
With Stitchery

I is through watching the details of new
gowns that women with nimble fingers
are o1ten abe to give to their old ones
the cachet of smartness. This season IL
would seem that any one with a taste for
fancy stitches might delight In the various
lattice works which can be so advantage
ously used In renovating old gowns Simply
slash them into new and desired shane
and put them together again wiki lattice
work instead of with uninteresting seams.
Lattice work, indeed, appears on gowns of
both light and heavy materials while Dou-
Get OF Paris shows a preference for their
being made of worsted instead of silk
thread of the stuff of the gown. Should a
founce of fancifuf shape be placed at the
bottom of the skirt its means of attaching
might well be the worsted lattice The flare
of the founce can also be accentualed by
slashing it at graduated intervals and using
the worsted lattice TO hold the cut cloth to-
gether. s.
The worsted used to make the lattice is
of the double zephyr sort. A slightly COM
pncated catstitch makes an attractive lat
tice work. while those of Louis XIV design
are made by simply tying the worsted
where the slanting lines cross each other
1t is not necessary, however. to copy any
exact design in making a lattice work on
some old gown One that is originated and
constructed with little labor will serve the
ungafnly sleeves may be made full and
modish. and belts, showing slashes and lat
tice work at their sides, appear as though
lately brought from Paris.
Crewel worsted work in fancy stitches is
seen on the most hairy of ali hairy cloths
Heavy lines of 1t are worked at the top Of
founces and on the sleeves and collars Of
small jackets. In such cases designs Of
leaves are popular. This crewel worsted
work Is broad and heavy, the stitches being
very long. Sometimes the outlining is done
with black and the filling in with. crewel
worsted toning with the color of the cloth.
Another effective detail of Paris gowns is
the CLEAN here and there of gold thread in
fancy stitches. On .black gowns especially
this is seen as a quite new and gay trim
ming. The sheaf of wheat pattern is one Of
the most attractive. 1t is, however. an elab-
crate design to undertake, and should be
stamped at some reliable shop before the
filling in with gold thread is begun. For ac-
centuating this design places are sometimes
left for tiny gilt buttons to be sewed on at
intervals.
Shadow work is the name of one style OF
fancy stitch which is considerably used on
blouses of sheer material. Chrysanthe-
NUNS, carnations and conventional designs
are most suitable for this style of work.
The outline Is dexterously followed by
cross-stitching on the wrong side OF the
goods, while the close working together OF
the threads shows later through the mate
rial as shadow flowers or leaves. A single
lesson in this work, which may be obtained
at almost any fancy shop for nifty cents.
will enable many women to make at nome
most charming blouses at much icss COST
than that which is asked for thom IN the
SHOES.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-09
A Useful Club.
From the Mothers Magazine.

Boston has the only Fathers and Moth
ers' Club In the country 1t has more than
100 members. and while the fathers can
not very well attend the afternoon meet
ings of the club, they attend in very salts
, factory numbers when meetings are held
in the evening. All sorts of questions af-
fecting the interests of the home and the
children are discussed. During the past
winter such questions as the teaching of
ethics in the public schools and other ques-
tons affecting the school interests Of chill
dren were discussed. An evening was given
to the child labor question, and one meet
ing was devoted to the subject of kindness
to animals. when representatives from the
Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to
Animals. from the Animal Rescue League
and from the Audubon Society spoke. An
evening was given to the prevention of
cruelty to children. This meeting was
largely attended and one of the speakers
from the Boston Society for the Proven
ton of Cruelty to Children gave a stere-
opticon lecture showing some of the con-
ditions in Boston. The club has a farm
to which it sends poor children all through
the summer months. 1t has trained nurse
in the public schools of the north end.
which is the slurn end of Boston. 1t does
great deal of practical philanthropic
work. and Is far from being an "all talk
club
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-09
Si1ken Petticoats That
Look Like Flowers

" RULY Partisan In their crispness and
coquettish style are some of the
new silk skirts which have just ar
rived from the French capital. The petit
coats are exceedingly elaborate but at the
same time the distinguishing feature is the
definite quality of their design.
For wear with tailor-made clothes the
plaid silk skirts are very popular finished
with self-trimming. For a more elaborate
style of street gowns the plaid skirts are
also used. but are frequently trimmed with
plain silk. lace band work and embroidery
A most charming petticoat of this kind,
made to wear with dull pink cloth frock.
is shown in one of the Illustrations. 1t is
of hollyhock pink taffeta, deep In tone and
plated with black satin cross lines. The
silk is used bias. A flounce is made of tat
feta OF the same shade with ruche at the
top and a button-holed scalloped edge done
in black silk Beneath this Is set on an adj
ditional iounce, on which Is hung the dis
tinctive feature of the skirt. This is Sc
ries of rufties, SO arranged as to simulate
two rows of boayhock. These ruffies of the
plain pink silk are very full and put on the
foundation so as to form nearly the entire
flower. the ruffie then being carried down
again to form another flounce. The effect
of this trimming is charmngly chic, while
at the same time, as 1t is of taffeta, II has
certain body that makes II admirable for
ClOth IuOkils VI AdCt
Their used to decorate the skirt. A straight
row of them is used around the plain upper
fiounce and two rows placed at intervals
are used on the skirt Itself.
The taffeta skirt on which eyelet embroid-
cry is used Is also admirable for wear with
afternoon frocks, whether of cloth or silk.
1t Is exceedingly attractive to have the
skirt made without any trimming of lace.
the entire ornamentation being wrought in
the silk itself. very attractive skirt OF
this sort is shown In the Illustration.
Solid embroidery is. of course. used for
this purpose. but the open eyelet embroid-
cry is by far the most effective. Which
ever sort OF embroidery is used, II is now
color-that of the skirt in contrasting
color or in several shades. White taffeta
skirts in eyelet embroidery are very at
tractive done In rather vivid shade OF
blue. pink. or. in fact, in any of the colors,
Again. a mingling of the pastel tlnts on q
white embroidered petticoat Is most cham
Ing. pale gray or cream petticoat Is most
effective wrought In lavender, pink. blue
and yellow all of pastel tints. Into the dec
Grafton OF these petticoats also there some
times enters touch OF gold and silver. A
gown Is most attractive embroidered In the
colors of the costume and silver or gold. A
coral petticoat for wear with a frock of the
same shade Is beautiful with the embroid-
cry In coral and black with a thread OF
gold.
Satin and peau de sole skirts are largely
used for wear with dinner costumes, their
soft fiounces being more attractive under
the crepes, chiffons. &c, than the taffeta
skirts. Skirts of India and China silk are
also used. but are a little too fiimsy for
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-09
Beautiful Earrings.
From the Taller.

or late the earring has become one of the
most important details of the toilet and
as no ornament is more subservient to the
changes and chances of fashion none needs
to be SO frequently renewed. The barbaric
gypsy circlet has for the moment given
place to the long pendant ornaments con-
sisting of three single stones or clusters
of graduated size set tandem SO to speak
The Partisan Diamond Company, which is
always a reliable authority on matters of
fashion, is showing some delightful earrings
in this stye, beautiful pair composed OF
three magnificent diamonds completed by
lustrous pearl drops being most artistic as
Wen as becoming. The company has, too,
some pretty ones with pear-shdped anne
thyst drops as finish.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-09
Fragrant Tea Made
From Native Plants
THE astringent property possessed by
tea leaves and their quick power to
inyigorate the system have been per-

"HE astringent property possessed by
tea leaves and their quick power to
invigorate the system have been per-
haps the main causes in making tea pop
ular beverage the world over. The tannin
the leaves contain is the principal quality
on which the invigorating properties depend.
Yet in the ordinary woods there are plants
whose leaves possess these same properties
which in many instances have been used as
substitutes for tea. The wonder, indeed, is
not that they have been of such service in
the past but that they are not more gener-
ally used at all times.
The most noted of these wild tea plants
is the so-called New Jersey tea or red root,
which appears as low growing bush
through many woodlands. In June and
July it bears its delicate white blossoms in
great abundance. They grow densely in
fat-topped clusters. while the leaves of the
plant are oblong with three distinct lines
running through them. Underneath they
are slightly downy. An infusion of these
leaves turns water to bright amber col
or. highly attractive to look upon. The
taste of the brew, however, while astrin-
gent is not as pleasing as that of conven-
tional tea.
During the revolution, when owing to po-
Utica: difficulties the drinking of imported
was everywhere sought for and used as a
substitute. Thrifty housewives had bags
full OF Its dried leaves hung In their gar
rets- and sometimes blended with it the
leaves OF mint or other wild herbs to height
en- its flavor.
Even recently in commercial circles there
has been an effort made to revive the use
of this pant as a substitute for tea. Its
leaves are credited with possessing about
10 per cent of tannin. The name Of red
root, also borne by the plant. is owing to
the reddish brown dye that is yielded by
the bark of its root. 1t has as well use in
medicine.
The leaves of the arbor vitae and those
of the hemlock have both been used as sub
stitutes for tea. These trees, especially the
arbor vitae, are frequent In the northern
woods. while in the Alleghanies the hem
lock is an inspiring sight as it casts Its fine
foliage over some deep ravine or sways 1t
back and forth In feathery masses along
the mountain ridges. Here the mountain
GERS and lumbermen brew these leaves as
tea claiming besides that the drink greatly
invigorates the system.
One OF the best-known tea substitutes Is
the little wintergreen plant, bearing thick.
glossy feaves and bright red berries about
the size of peas. Growing close to the
ground, these leaves carpet many a north
ern woodland and are a familiar sight to
visitors throughout the summer months
They are very aromatic, and people like to
pick them and nibble on them, besides add
ing q dash of them to ordinary tea to In
crease its spiciness. 1t is said that tea
made from the wintergreen berries IL most
beneficial to those suffering from rheuma-
tism.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-09

embroidery work TO do representing labor
the equivalent of the value of the orna-
mental jar-a lesson she was not likely to
forget.
royal home the empress brought them to
the sewing room, a place in which her
daughter, her nieces and poor girls to
whom she gives ASA lance work so many
hours each day. Nearly all of the useful
dress articles o. the royal family are
made in thi., room. which is fitted with
machines, working tables and measuring
apparatuses
1--WE Germans" said the empress, with
a pleasant smile. TRY to avoid having idle
little girls or women"