The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1906-05-12
TIE FASHIONS.
PRINCES GOWNS ARE MADE
WITH TRAINS.
New Model for street GOwns-BOIercs
and PeIerines--sOme Attractive Eng
Iish Umbrellas.

| assn GAhhAGAAhSs
A new and decidedly pretty idea in
walking gowns has developed. The
princess skirt has taken such firm
hold that ingenuity has had to be exer-
cised to vary the model. The newest
princess skirt for informal wear IS
short, plated in one way or another,
has high, swathed girdle or corselet,
and a modish little coat of different
material. Thus a checked blue and
white foulard skirt was accompanied
by plain blue taffeta coat. The skirt
was laid in very small plaits, kept fiat
over the hips, and suggesting great
width of material at the hem The
corselet was high and unpointed at the
waist line to keep an empire effect,
and the short eton of taffeta was trim
med in tiny strips of the foulard and
small gilt buttons
Another gown was brown and White
shepherds plaid taffeta, with fancy
eton of brown satin faced cloth trimmed
with white braid and gilt buttons The
skirt was sun plated. These gowns
were worn over lingerie waists lace
trimmed and fflmy. With the brown
gown the blouse was cream-colored
batiste, and with the blue white linen,
! inset with crocheted lace in heavy mo-
tifs.
Some of these little separate Jackets
are not jackets at all, strictly speak
ing, but pelerines, "A suggestion Of the
old-fashioned cape is in these little
affairs, but they are extremely smart
and very becoming. AS accessories to
thin gowns they will be very fashion
able. All sorts of embroidered and
lace-trimmed muslin pelerlnes are
shown in the shops, to be worn with
cotton gowns. They will not furnish
much warmth, it is feared but they
are decorative enough to justify their
existence.
After looking at princess gowns in
elaborate models one wishes that some
other form of street gown could be en-
forced. The princess robe should al
ways be long to be really beautiful The
handsomest of the new silks crepe are
finished with long trains, which Of
course, puts them in what some one
calls the carriage class. There Ia moth
ing more ridiculous than to have to
hold up ones skirt, and besides, it
spoils the gowns, The trained princess
and Empire gowns are meant for the
house, as matter of fact, When
they are sldlfully built, even stout
women find them becoming. The diff
Guilty is to convince stout women that
their size is not Increased by a loosely
fitting garment The Empire gown
does cling snugly to the figure, but not
in the old skin-tight fashion. The
beauty of the gown is in the long, I'M
! broken, gently curving line from the
bust to the very foot OF the skirt It
| is wonderful what an effect Of slimness
is often obtained in these gowns.
Some Of the muslin princess gowns
| are fascinating in the extreme. One
seen this week was fine white null
| with fancy figure In black dots 1t
| had a deep yoke of Valenciennes lace
with fold Of black velvet at the top
Of the collar and another, pointed front
and back, about half way down the
yoke. The gown itself was little more
than corselet skirt, although the
corselet was high enough to pass for
waist. 1t had shoulder straps or bre-
telles outlined with velvet folds, and
the same folds trimmed the top of the
skirt, which had a deep, pointed scallop
in the front The seams of the skirt
were put together with inch-wide
valenciennes, and the hem was trimmed
with lace, Underneath was worn a
slip of maize-co1ored taffeta. The
sleeves of the gown were lace, trimmed
at the short cuff with velvet folds,
A charming muslin gown was white
with lose violets scattered over the
surface. The flowers were pale colored,
but beautifully designed. A yoke of
very fine, thin white lace was a part of
the gown and the same lace appeared
in the deep sleeve and in Empire motifs
which trimmed the skirt. The blouse
VISA simply shirred to the yoke with a
! little beading edged with the narrowest
] lace. The girdle of pale violet liberty
silk was in the form of draped sash
lstarting from the back, showing high
and wide under the arms and cross
ing in front the narrow ends tucking
under at the sides. The skirt was full
under the girdle, and very long 1t was
plain to point just above the knees,
where mEpire wreaths of lace were in
set in decoration which was carried
completely around the skirt. Under
this to the bottom of the skirt was a
wide, shaped fl0unce of muslin, showing
immense lunches Of violets somewhat
deeper in tone than those on the body
of the gown The effect of this differ
ent material was admirable
This combination of materials in one
cosgtume is a special feature Of this
springs fashion. Two or three kinds
of silk often enter into a composition,
and when skilfully managed are very
good indeed. AS for lace, all kinds are
combined, often with all-over Valen-
ciennes as foundation. Cluny, Irish
crochet, and guipure are the favorite
heavy laces
Parasols and umbrellas are begin
ming to interest shoppers. A group of
English coaching umbrellas attracted
attention in Broadway establishment
They were in colored taffetas, and had
long wooded handles original in design.
A green umbrella, for example had a
light colored wooden handle with a
; little green stain rubbed into it. The
handle curved at the end into the long
neck of swan, skilfuly carved, with
jewelled eyes and a scarlet bill. An