The evening times. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1906-1914, 1906-02-24
o o o o o 900 o o o o d o o
o NEW YORK FASHION LETTER. o


designed for her slender sister. The
prevailing fashion Is certainly Empire
princess, and the newest two-piece
suits are shown with jaunty coats not
becoming to all figures. 1t is, how
ever, the wise woman who adapts the
mode rather than follows it blindly,
and a clever dressmaker knows how
to make the princess dress suit Ill
styles and Sizes 1t need not be neces-
sarily In one piece from head to foot,
but waist and skirt SO fitted that when
worn 1t has the effect of a long waist
ed princess. If stout women could
once rid themselves of the idea that
they must be pinched to the gasping
point to be elegant they would appear
better dressed.
There is French saying that lone
must suffer to be admired" but this is
not true. The Vatican effect is in
variably becoming to stout figures,
giving length at the back and avoiding
emphasis of the belt size in front. But.
as l have said often before, let the
stout woman avoid rigidly and strictly
the light waist and dark skirt She can
wear all white, all dark or al med
'ium; or even that uncertain color
called "skyblue pink, but never con-
trasting colors.
In this respect of plain colors
Fashion is on the stout woman's> side
this season, for the spring colors are
all cool and quiet in tone, grays, maui
yes. soft greens and blues. There
Is an exception in favor of hair line
stripes and pinhead checks that are
attractive for travellers use. But for
travelling nothing can surpass the pro-
duct of the American silk mills. They
are both durable and beautiful and
every well-filled wardrobe should have
one or more American silk dresses.
They are not limitations of imported
goods. but have quality of their own
and are as popular abroad as they
are getting to be here. They are
woven with very little gloss and the
rougher weaves are particularly desir-
able for skirt and coat suits.
But to return to the subject Of
princess dresses, let me describe one
designed for evening wear just receiv-
ed. 1t is of radium silk of pale rasp-
berry color. The skirt is very full,
shirred to fit the figure, the shirring
sharply pointed in front, girdle fash
ion. The foot of the skirt was fin
ished with three very narrow ruffles,
headed by a narrow box plated frill-
ing. The whole trimming did not reach
above six inches. The neck was cut
low, finished with inch-wide bands Of
black velvet above bertha of white
point lace, with little vest of the lace
showing beneath. The sleeves were
small, being tiny puffs of the silk fin
ished with two narrow rufies with a
deeper rufflle of the lace falling over
the arms and fashioned with narrow
bands and bows of black velvet ribbon.
These ribbons and bowsaere very
much in evidence on aN evening
gowns, as the Empire and Vatican
styles SO much in favor must have
black velvet touches to be in perfect
Keeping. Sometimes these little bows
are wired to keep them in shape, again
they are made over linen crash. Little
rhinestone buckles often form the
center.
There are various little frivolities
of fashion this spring. For instance
it is the thing now to have sets of
hat pins all alike. Four is the usual
number and they should be of pat
tern to suit the hat or costume. For
street wear silver filigree, gilt balls or
mother-of-pearl are shown. For dress
hats brilliants, crystal and rhinestones
are favorites. Colored stones to blend
with the shade worn, or enamel in
quaint design also are attractive.
Scarfs of all widths and lengths are
much in favor. If of flimsy chiffon
they are thrown around the neck in :.
twist that encircles the throat with
one end hanging straight in front and
the other floating over the left shoulder.
A scarf of lace, however, is worn more
demurely, crossed in front and spread
to show the pattern. This latter fash
ion is especially becoming to an erect
and perfect figure.
Wells of all kinds are shown for the
spring hats, from the costly hand EN-.
broidered net for the elderly and
middle-aged to the floating tulles and
chiffons for the younger set. Great
care is needed to keep these wells in
shape, and we'll ordered dresser has
its veil drawer with little perfumed
satin cushions on which to wind these
frail things and keep them in shape.
A desirable veil holder is made of a
small wooden rolling-pin covered with
perfumed cotton wadding, the handles
gilded and tied with robbons. This
makes pretty gift and useful one. I
Among the utility suggestions is
one from Paris relating to the
long street dress This is for ruffles
or bands of leather matching the cos
tune in color and sewed firmly around
the inside of the bottom of the skirt
to protect it from tibet dust and dirt Of
the thoroughfare. Some of these are
separate from the skirt and can be
fastened in temporarily by buttons
and loops and removed from the skirt
when 1t is worn in the house. These
have the advantage of being easily
cleaned when removed. They really
protect the gown In a wonderful way,
and make 1t unnecessary for the wear
er to be constantly on her guard every
time she steps into the street.
Another OF the useful fancies is the
one for pretty aprons. They are called
sewing aprons. but are useful for all
the many times the home-maker must
fit from one thing to another-in the
house. Some of these aprons are of
embroidered linen, some of silk with