Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-23

| if she Wills that II should, or NAV be-
| made of very supple colored cloth, among
| which pale masts, hamingo delicate blue
| and pearl gray provide an excellent choice
Pointed ends in front give a quaint and
| pretty air, and band posed above the belt
invests the figure with the shOrt-waisted air
that is now all the mode. Trim the little
wrap with bordering of coarse lace, either
colored or cream, or with the very pleasant
| mingling provided by empiecements of tat
| fetas OVERLAND with lace and silk.
Much impressed am | by the possibilities
of velvet ribbon threaded through a ma
terlal. The gown should be of very fine
cashmere the color puce. and there is
little delicate embroidery around the
bolero where it Is followed out beneath
the throat to show an embroidered batiste
guimpe The embroidery develops a scheme
of clematfs, In the natural purple colorings,
and the velvet ribbon that is used is of
dainty shade of purple that harmonizes
well with the material and the embroidery.
Where the velvet is passed through the
material the eyelet holes are worked over
substantially with gold tissue, which pro-
vides the whole toilet with brilliant note
Of color
During autumn there is a growing desire
for simple millinery. II Is always at this
season of the year that the hatters place
great faith upon the beauty of the straws
they sell and restrain their whilom ardor
for extravaganza in the use of flowers and
plumage in favor of a few well-chosen bios
SONS The roses they are using now look
sadly as If the first frosts of autumn had
touched them; are always far IN ad-
vance in our millinery garden of natures
parterre.
One idea is hat of mastic-colored straw
the strands of which are separated by che
mile cords Round the crown is posed a
sash of very vivid burnt orange velvet
held in place in front beneath frost bitten
damask roses.
1t is at Marienbad and other resorts of
renown that the first fruits of the dress
makers arts in autumn wraps are seen,
and their millinery, too, fourishes at such
places and sets the fashion in md-season
modes.
also being worn there, and at the smart
watering places and other centers of fash
ionable life the latest ideas in Ornamental
ton are displayed. l must now describe q
form of embroidery which is uncommon as
well as extremely handsome, which was
noticed on two dresses of late. One of
them was a natter blue taffetas chiffon tot
let for the evening made purposely with a
"reminiscences of the old French monarchy
days, when powdered hair was worn, which.
by the way, must have looked exquisite
with this particular shade of blue.
There was a draped corsage ending In a
point below the waist, which threw into re-
lief the gathered skirt, which upon the hips
was extensively padded, perhaps little
Round the hem of the skirt the embroidery
In very broad band appeared Made Of
gauze and shaded taffetas, and showing
fuchsias and green leaves executed in soft
splendid.
Upon the decolletage of the bodice more
embroidery appeared in the form of stom-
acher, and with the band upon the skirt
was mingled silver gauze also twisted to
look like blossoms hanging away from the
background
In the second the robe was purely
directoire, and was made of purple tulle
with embroideries Introducing crimson gold
and antique pink. The gold took the form
of wired Louis bows and ribbon ends half
fixed to the background. half allowed to
fall away from 1t, while the rest of the en-
broidery was done in chenille and floss silk,
aided by old gold tissue.
Though the effect is almost quiet when
compared with other designs, an infinite
amount of patient work must be expended
to produce perfect effect when a dress of
white satin sash ribbon and lace is implied.
The ribbon is incrusted with medallons of
Cluny, each one covered with fine traceries
of tiny sequins and diamond chips The
ribbon is afterward mounted upon back
ground of sunset tulle, many layers of
which in gradations of color compose the
skirt. Lightly stitched down here and there
so that they do not fall from their respect
i've places. the satin ribbon is yet left to all
appearances loose. and herein lies its chief
charm. SOPHIA GEANERET.