The Montgomery advertiser., 1906-01-15

cation up to the time he entered, these clements of knowledge should be made the starting point of his school work.
 More About the Hdme Orchard. Prof. A. B, Mckay, in Southern Farm
 Gazette.
 In my last article. suggestions were offered as to how to make a selection of varieties where to obtain trees the manner of preparing soil, and the time to begin planting.
 The following list contains a good assortment of varieties. named about in the order of ripening:
 Peaches: Sneed, Japan Blood, Alex ander, Triumph. Mamie Ross, Carman. Mt. Rose, Yellow St. John, Amelia. Fos- ter. Thurber, Crawford's Early, Family Favorite. George Bell, Elberta. Emma, Chinese, Cling, Wheatly. Gen. Lee, Crawford's Late. old Nixon Free, Globe, Lemon Cling. Orange, Heath Cling, Picquett's Late.
 Plums: Red June or Red Nagatefl Milton, Gonzales. Climax, Abundance or Sweet Botan, Wild Goose, Burbank, America, Cabot.
 Apples: Yellow Transparent, Early Harvest, Red Astrachan, Red June, Carolina Watson. Day. Horse, Carter's Blue, Bunccmbe. Buckingham, Roxbury, Russet, Arkansas Black, Black Twig, Yates.
 Pears: Garber, Bartlett, Duchess dAngouleme, Seekle, Keiffer.
 Quinces: Orange or Apple, Champion, Meechs Prolific.
 Figs: Brown Turkey. Celestial Lem- on, Brunswick.
 Possibly not all of the varieties men, toned may be found in any one nur- sery catalogue. Very likely the orch ardists may not wish so many kinds; but. Tn case he should, his nursery men can generally substitute other good varieties.
 With the inexperienced, the notion prevails that the older the tree is when transplanted to the orchard. the quicker it will grow. off and the soon- CT it will bear paying crops of fruit. Of the two extremes. choose the small CT and younger. rather than the larg- CT and older, tree. With peaches and plums, trees three to four feet high. with smooth. straight bodies and but few side branches, are best. If from seed never order the two-year tree, if the one-year-old can be had. If bud ded troes (with but few exceptions budded trees are wanted), order the three to four foot June bud. or what is termed the one-year budded tree, three to four feet high. With apples and pears, secure two-year trees if well grown one-year trees cannot be had, Well rooted fig and quince trees eith- CT one or two years old will answer.
 If the soil is not in condition for planting upon the arrival of the trees. trench or bury the roots in loamy soil at once, taking care to pack the earth and to cover a little deeper than trees stood in nursery row.
 As indicated two weeks ago. 1t is better to set fruit trees shortly after the leaves have fallen, than to defer planting until mid-winter or until early spring. The sooner now the better. Planted during November and early December. the soil can be put in the finest condition; there Is no danger of having trees hurt in transit by cold weather: the soil settles nicely around the roots with the first winer rains; he work of planting is all over before the busy spring season; root growth begins at once and, in consequence, good root system Is developed and ready for business before the foliage starts in spring. An early spring drouth is hard on newly set trees Fall and early winter settings are comparatively much better able to en- dure an extended dry spell.
 The distance between trees will vary with the soil and with the kind plant ed. On soil that will produce some- thing like three-quarters of bale of cotton, peach trees should be placed at least twenty feet apart each way; plums and dwarf pears. about eighteen feet each way; apples and standard year trees. twenty-five to thirty feet between trees. Soil of medium fertil- itv is considered best for peaches and plums. The richest soil may be given 10 apples. pears, quinces and figs. Fig and auince trees are usually planted about the yard or garden. the fig trees usually being given sunny exposures in positions sheltered from the cold winds.
 Air drainage is about as important as soil drainage for fruit trees; hence, an elevated location is to be desired for the orchard.
 Having thoroughly prepared the soil, make openings with the blow or spade sufficiently large to receive the roots without bending or twisting them out of their natural position. Just before i planting each tree, carefully examine the larger roots for borers; then with | sharp knife, shorten the roots to not more than five or six inches in length, | taking care to make smooth cuts and to leave no bruised or mangled root ends. Having thus pruned the roots, 1 stand the tree in the opening and with the handwork in among the roots finely pulverized top soil. When the roots are well covered, add more soil and pack we'll over the roots and about l rhe base of the tree. When planted, | the tree should stand a little deeper 1 in tho soil than 1t did m the nursery row and on a slighly elevated ridge or 1 bed,
 Pasturing Wheat.
 Results of experiments at the Okla homa A. & NJ. station in winter pas turing of wheat leads to the follow | ing conclusions:
 | The differences in the yields obtained | from the different treatments are some what unusual in some cases ana not cxrIainable In general, the results 1 .......ra ,,.ith thnse obtained in the tWn