davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1906-09-30
Sre~ AID blAck Mixed
NChe~i0

co1ors TO wear; 1t invariably cfzzzSes
IN shade and often the material 10
quite different from the trimming after
a few weeks wear, 50 that in choosing
trimmings and materials the greatest
care should be exercised. 1t is for
this reason, perhaps, or 1t may be on
account Of the fancy Of the moment
for sharp contrasts. that so much black
Is used with light colors. and also with
gray.
1t Is a very sharp contrast, black and
gray, and yet 1t is seen. A more satis-
factory combination Is black and blue,
and as a rule black trimmings on blue
gowns are preferred to the all blue.
that Is in the dark co1ors: black silk
and black satin look well on blue serge
or blue cheviot. and then the little line
OF white on the waistcoat. sons gold.
braid and some gold buttons. and
straizhtway a smart little gown is
turned out that invariably has look
OF style that makes IL extremely at
tractive. It is curious how these dark
blue serge and cheviot gowns continue
in fashion year after year. and at the
same time are never said to be fash
ionab1e: they are very useful for all
sorts of wear, and are so tremendously
serviceable, which IL probably one rea-
son for their great popularity
The medium length or rather short
box coat and a severely plain SHIRT look
we'll in such material. as does also the
plain color with the white or contrast
ing stripes. which has already been
spoken Of In brown there are good
combinations. and there Is brown
with hair stripe of lighter brown that
looks almost like yellow. while some
of the rough plain browns are very
attractive. Brown is a color that must
needs require careful choice; the right
shade is charming and the wrong shade
is appalling. so that the woman who
buys it must be sure she gets a shade
that is becoming to her own especial
coloring. This. too, can be Iightened
and made more becoming by a white
or black waistcoat, for black and brown
look well together; brown and green
are a strange combination, but very
smart at the moment, and once again
brown and blue are attempted This
seems very strange, but If the right
shades are put together the combina-
tion always is an effective one. Blue
serge with brown braid. for instance.
is rather a daring thing when it Ia
first talked of and yet an extremely
dark costume OF dark blue and braid
ing of blue and tiny lines OF brown
velvet is a model that wants commen-
dation from no one
The San Francisco call., 1906-09-30

Z" MONG blousss for the schoolboy
4 the EtoD style. made of white
galatea. is popular They are
made double breasted. with six
or eight pearl buttons on either side
the broad central panel. Ths collar Is
attached, and is low. turned down and
rounding The sleeves are taken IN at
the cuff with small vertical pleats- On
the front of the blouse there is usually
a chevron embroidered in colors. red.
blue or black being the favorites II
the emblem is large one and is done
on solid embroidery 1t is best to make
most of it in white. using the color
to supplement- or accentuate the deccra-
tion. This sort of blouse Is suitable
only for boys under 10 years OF age,
from to s years being the usual lini-
tations of the style
For older boys and for girls as well
there are most attractive b10uses OF
wash silk in colors. tan, blue, gray.
cream and white being among thu
shades used.
The San Francisco call., 1906-09-30

UsT as soon as the. nrst cold day
comes toward the end of summer
do the cloth costumes appear.
They may have been made up
some time before. but the well gowned
woman makes point of always having
them ready for this change of weather.
knowing that by so doing she viii
look much more smartly gowned than
any Of her less careful sisters. The
first cold days of autumn are the most
trying, almost, from becoming point
OF view. OF any in the year. The sum-
mer gown. which has looked very
smart and trim until now, suddenly
looks shabby, is unbecoming and has
completely lost any appearance of
style, While If the temperaturefall low
enough really TO in-ure cold day the
wearer Of said gown viii look any
thing but well. and it viii be hard
10 recognize in her the smartiy
gowned Individual whose clothes have
made her the envy of her sex
These first autumn cloth gowns that
are seen are not at all elaborate; by
rights they should be rather severe, on
the so-caIed tailor order. and should
owe their beauty and attractiveness
rather to the general cut and effect
than to any elaborate detail or to
much trimming OF course, there is
this difficulty present, that all fash
ions seem to call for a lot of trim
ming. silk bands are no longer put
on plain. but are tucked or pleated. or
gathered. or IL by chance left plain,
are ornamented with quantities of
French knots or have bits of lace in
serted in them or beads sewed on them
All this is not in keeping with the
really smart tailor gown. or with the
cloth gown that should make its ap-
pesrance at this time of year. How
ever. fashion has decreed that it is
all right, and consequently the woman
who has purchased such q costume
feels that she is attired as she should
be. while the woman who has made a
study OF clothes and her own special
style goes out triumphantly in Sc
verely plain cloth, serge or cheviot
costume, knowing that she never
looked better In her life.
The old war is raging in full force
sgain anent the question Of long or
short skirts It is absolutely silly to
have such material as cheviot, rough
cloth or serge. Intended for useful or
binary wear. made up with trained
skirt and yet from Paris come these
same long skirts sweeping on the
ground. touching all around. sides and
back quite impossible to hold up
gracefully--thst is. by any American
woman Even in Paris great effort is
Abeing made to have these same skirts
ut short and there are signs that this
fashion may be put through and that
women viii be sensible enough to have
q skirt intended for a walking skirt
mace short enough to clear the ground
absolutely. without any danger of its
touching The fashioning of a short
skirt 50 that IT hangs well and fits we'll
Is . difficult art. and - in for this rea-
The San Francisco call., 1906-09-30

son that dressmakers are not so much
in favor of the short skirt as would be
expected. 1t is dif1icult unless q wo-
man has an uncommonly good figure
and holds herself remarkably well, TO
make a short skirt becoming, especial
ly If she be at all stout. The lines
must be carefully studied, the fullness
of the material must be placed right,
and the lines of trimming, if there be
any trimming, must needs be long and
at the same time follow the figure it
self. Dressmakers often get ahead of
this difficulty by putting on fat trim
mings of the material itself or of braid
that seem to be in direct contradiction
to the lines Of the skirt They may
not be so in reality. but at all events
they carry out the lines desired and the
effect is good.
At the moment fashion seems to be
rather more in favor of stripes than
fashionable for the last two or three
winters, and the new cheviot and tweed
gowns are extremely attractive made
in this design. There have been seen
all summer these costumes in the fan
nels. the white with q hair line of black
or blue, and, once again, attractive
dark grays with a hair line of lighter
gray or white. For the autumn the
dark colors are preferred The light
colors look somehow as though the
gowns were leftovers, and as the sea-
son advances they look too cold and
rather poor. as 1t were. The exception
is in favor of white. which for country
wear is possible until very late, or in
the shaggy. rough materials. The light
tans with the indefinite figures are
thought very smart. The blues with
line OF green are rather unusual and are
very attractive made In the many
gored skirts. with the effective short
&c fo ofC1,
Many of these gowns are now
made with a waist to match This
is not possible if material is too heavy,
but a great many of the woolen
materials, especially the most sexpen-
sive ones. are light, although warm,
and il is quite possible to have a
waist made of them, only suitable,
however, for very cold days. and as a
rule the separate waist still. holds
its popularity and is worn under the
coat, which invariably matches the
skirt 1t is possible, and also attract
i've in the figured materials, not to
have any trimming except the material
itself put on bias bands, which natur-
ally requires some cleverness to carry
out in such design as this. but the
fashions show that it is to be quite
the most popular idea of the autumn,
and when relieved by collar or cuffs of
heavy silk or velvet and few bright
buttons it must be confessed the whole
effect is most satisfactory.
The more elaborate cloth costumes
are extremely useful in spite of their
long skirts and look very warm and
comfortable at this time Of year. The
dark blue serges are made up again
fhis year and are most attractive,
whether simple or elaborate in design.
The elaborate trimmings are pleated
bands of taffeta or mohair braid with
a soft silk finish that is shiny and
sonebow gives GsS OF slabors tion
The San Francisco call., 1906-09-30

put snort sleeves III a rougn material
and gown that is intended only for
practical use. The more elaborate
sleeve can be used for the more elab-
crate gown, giving an air of fashion
that is very smart and becoming and
making the gown possible to wear on
more formal occasions.
Gray is at the moment fashionable
and will be fashionable color all
through the autumn and winter. In
the rough materials the mixed de-
signs are the most preferred, while
in the smoother fabrics the plain sur
face is the best The fad of the mo-
ment to trim these gowns or costumes
with taffeta silk of the same color is
a good one in so far as it is effective,
but when gray as color is chosen
it is not always very satisfactory
combination of the materials silk and
wool, for gray is one of the worst
The San Francisco call., 1906-09-30
bre,tded. blue Cloth Costume.

quite lifts the coat out of the region of
only being practical and useful.
The sleeves on the moro elaborate
style are short, just to the elbow or
"a little below. They stand out from
the shoulder and are trimmed. In the
pony coats and the more simple models
the sleeves are longer, and in truth
for a really correct tailor gown the
sleeves ought to be in coat shape and
long. 1t has been very curious that
conservative women have accepted
this last year this fashion of the
sleeves, quito incorrect for the style
of coat in which they are placed. but
they. have been accepted, apparently,
and are rather likely to continue so,
but be it remembered that the woman
who can buy but one gown. or at the
most two, mad better study very care
fully for what purpose she intends to
use her costume before she decides to
The San Francisco call., 1906-09-30

- HIS is to be a season of ribbons,
if all signs come true. Not for
a. long time have so many Of
the French froclSs been seen
with ribbon garnitu,e And the new
,fbbons themselves! What richness!
what gorgeous colors! What magnifi-
cent materials. They are embroidered,
brocaded, figured. striped and lowered.
And the plaid ribbons-Roman and
scotch and plain American. Then there
are the Persian mixtures with their
oriental harmonies of blues and dull
ninks. And the French designs in clear
blues and pinks and lavenders OF
course the Scotch plaids are In red
and black. blue and green and yellow
and black And the old Roman rib
hons have returned with their White
ground work crossed with pink and
gold bars, yellow and blue bands. etc.
TheSfibbons' are in silk SATIN velvet,
n1ush. and all the mixtures. They are
broad and medium width, but there are
few narrow ones. And as for their uses,
there are few feminine garments which.
if some of the new styles from Paris
hecome popular will escape without q
ribbon decoration somewhere about
them.
One of the ways in which brocaued
ribbon is being most attractively used
is shown on afternoon gowns of deli
cate material. such as yelling cashmere.
etc. This style is also possible in soft.
light weight broadcloths or 4ady'
cloths. The skirt is finished with
tucks around the bottom at consider
able intervals from one another The
ribbon is set under the edge of the
tucks, SO that it shows below and forms
what seems to be a scant little ruffie.
The ribbon decoration is also used in
paneling skirt or on either side of
decoration of lace insertion.
Another way in which the ribbon is
used is to run through q beading. which
beading is formed of the material of
fI,e frock cut into little hands button-
The San Francisco call., 1906-09-30

coats, or even the medium length ones;
they are sure to make their appearance
a little later. In the meantime there
is suspicion of waistcoat in many of
the more elaborate costumes. and GER
tainly it addsyvery much to the general
effect and even makes the coat more
white cloth, leather and
black satin all are used, and OCCASION
ally is seen what is known as fancy
ycsting. somewhat on the order of
the waistcoat that men wear, in which
is seen only just the edge or sufficient
to give a touch of contrast in color or
material that is extremely effective and
The San Francisco call., 1906-09-30

without making the gown look over
done. All braiding as well as braid is
fashionable, but as there are many
women of conservative taste to Judge
of this thing. there is very clever
scheme by which the collars and cuffs
can be braided; there can be a waist
coat braided and then there need be
nothing on the skirt.
The Jackets so far for this style of
costume are short and on the Eton.
pony or bolero order. with the addition
of a short box coat that is most be-
coming when becoming at all There
have not as yet appeared the long
Mexico Missouri message., 1906-12-06
A KANSAS FARM HAND TURNS
RoB5ER FOR A LITTLE
WHILE.
KILLED SELF IN BANK
Failing to Make Good az 3 Bank Rob-
her, He Put a Pistol Be.
hind His Ear and
Pulled Trigger.

Troy, Kas.-Realizing that he was
about to be captured in an unsuccess-
full attempt to rob the Beneda state
bank at Beneda, Kas., FIVE miles west
Of here. ]. w. Harris, farm hand,
aged 30, placed a pistol behind his
ear and pulled the trigger He died
three hours later.
Harris entered the bank at p. m.
Friday, when w. A. Gillen, the cash.
Ter, and Theo. Selb, a clerk, were pre-
pairing to close the bank for the day.
He covered both men with a pistol
and commanded them to throw up
their hands. He then ordered them to
come out from behind the counter,
pull down the window blinds and lock
the doors.
Selb went back behind the counter
again, ostensibly to pull down a WIN
dow curtain, but In reality to make
his escape through a door, which led
into a back room. AS Selb suddenly
opened the door, Harris fired one shot
at him, but without effect, and the
clerk escaped from the building.
Fearing capture, Harris calmly
Mexico Missouri message., 1906-12-06
THE PRESIDENT FEELS FINE
LANDS IN WASHINGTON FROM
his JOURNEY TO PANAMA.
The Canal viii Be the Subject Of =
Special Message to the
Congress.

Washington--Com a ramark.
able trip TO Panama, during which
he travelled several thousand miles by
sea, aud visited not only the isthmus,
but Porto Rico as well, and voicing his
thorough enjoyment of the entire voy-
age. President Roosevelt returned to
washington at 1912 o'clock Monday
night. The trip up the Potomac on
the converted yacht Mayhower, to
which he and his party were trans
ferred from the Louisiana at Piney
Point, was made without special incl
dent. AS the Mayfiower pulled into
the dock at the rear Of the office OF
the commandant at the navy yard,
Miss Ethel Roosevelt, the presidents
daughter, and Miss Hagner, Mrs.
Roosevelt's secretary, were awaiting
to greet the party.
Miss Roosevelt Immediately rushed
on board, as soon as the gangplank
was laid. and affectionately greeted
her father and mother There was also
at the dock to welcome the president,
Capt Mccoy, U. s. A., and Lieut.. Com
mander Key, of the marine corps, the
presidents aids and the commandant
and other officials of the navy yard,
and the Uruguay charge d'affaires. The
president landed within ten minutes
after the arrival of the Mayfower. To
those who met him he stated that he
had had delightful trip and that he
was feeling fine. The president and
Mrs. Roosevelt Immediately proceeded
to the White House, which they
reached shortly after II o'clock. Soon
after the president alighted from his
carriage, he shook hands with all the
attaches and others waiting on the
portico.
Speaking of his trip, the president
sadi:
1--WE had very pleasant, very en-
joyable time, and l am deeply i'm.
pressed with the United States navy,
with Panama and with Porto Rico"
The Panama canal, it was stated by
the president, will be a subject of a
special message, and consequently on
that subject the president will say
nothing at this time.
Pedro Roquena Bermudez, charge
d'affaires of Uruguay, was the only
member of the diplomatic corps who
greeted the president upon his ar
rival
At the front entrance % the navy
yard Senior Bermudez was delayed by
the marine guard, who refused to adj
NIT him without the consent of the
commandant. After being delayed for
20 minutes, he was admitted, and
when the president appeared on the
deck of the Mayflower, the diplomat
was the first to rush up the gangplank.
He protested to the president against
the manner in which he had been
treated by the marine guard.
Mexico Missouri message., 1906-12-06
FootbaII g 20 nrutaI.

Chicago Eleven dead and 104 SO,
verely injured is the record OF the foot
bali season Of 1906, according to the
resume Of the seasons accidents, In
the Tribune These figures are COM
pared with the casualties Of 1905, when
is players were killed and l59 severely
Injured, and according TO the Tribune
shows that .debrutalized" football has
accomplished IN a large degree the OBJ
ject aimed at, in rendering the game
less dangerous to life and limb. De-
crease Is especially marged among
high school PLAYERS.
Mexico Missouri message., 1906-12-06
d carefulIY Watohed.

London-ln the house OF commons.
replying TO a question as to what steps
the government intended to take in
order to checkmate the trust scheme
under the name OF the Southern Cot
ton Co. the president OF the board Of
Trade, Mr.. Lloyd-George, said he had
seen reports that a scheme was being
organized in United States to regulate
price OF cotton by means OF storage
and gradual sale The developments
OF course would be carefully watched.
but board Of trade did not understand
that the cotton trade was alarmed.
Mexico Missouri message., 1906-12-06
Wan More TarIff Enperta.

Westinghouse appearing before
the house committee on appropria-
lions, to answer questions concerning
the financial needs Of the state depart
ment for the next fiscal year, Seere-
tary Root took occasion to Impress
upon the committee the Importance Of
liberal appropriations for the employ
ment OF tariff experts. saying that the
department is preparing TO make eY,
cry possible effort to extend the ma
tionai commerce. He made especial
reference to the commission TO Ger
many.
Mexico Missouri message., 1906-12-06
$4,000 FOR A FRANCHISE
A RAILROAD PRESIDENT AND A
COUNCILMAN ARRESTED.
slNty-NIne councllmen, Il Is Alleged,
Were to Have Received $4,000,
While $4,000 Was for Three
counellmen Agents.

Pittsburg-with the arrest Of G. 8.
Cameron, president Of the Tube City
railroad, and Common Councilman viii
liam A. Bartin, on a charge of conspir-
acy to defraud the railroad out of So.
900, this time the police authorities
being the prosecutors, and their sub
sequent release in $4,000 bail each,
the alleged councilmanic bribery scan
dial is to be thoroughly and publicly
ventilated.
Mayor George w. Guthrie reiterates
cmphatically that every person found
10 be implicated, either councilmen or
railroad officials, in the distribution OF
the $4,000 graft money, will be arrest
ed and prosecuted.
Forty-seven members of select coun-
ellis and 25 members of common coun-
ellis are said to be implicated in the
conspiracy.
According to the evidence, said to
have been gathered by the police, and
now in the possession of Mayor Guth-
RE, the councilmen were to act favor
ably on the ordinances desired passed
by the Tube City railroad. The rail-
road was to distribute $4,000. OF this
sum, $4,000 was to have been distrib-
uted among SO councllmen, while the
remainder was to have been given to
three other councilmen who acted as
agents in the deal.
The position taken by G. R. Richard
son, who entered the first suit against
Cameron and Martin for conspiracy,
was that of a broker. Richardson has
made a statement TO the police alleg-
ing he loaned Cameron $4,000 at the
legal rate of interest. Cameron was to
Mexico Missouri message., 1906-12-06
ofaclal Voc 81 IIllnni.

Springfield, Ill-The official canvas
of the vote OF Illinois is as follows:
Stale treasurer, smulskl. republican,
417,544; Piatrowski. democrat, 27i 1854
Allin, prohibition, $500; McDermitt,
socialist 42,0OB; Francis sociallabor,
3,757 State superintendent Of public
instruction. Blair, republican, 436, s25
Grote, democrat. 299,218; Whitcomb,
prohibition, 2s,4SS; Simmons socialist,
40,023; Veal, social-labor 1903. This
gives the republicans a plurality over
the democrats Of l45.5GO, or e majority
over all Of about 10000 on governor.
Mexico Missouri message., 1906-12-06
FUNERAL OF SAMUEL SPENCER.
Interment of Late Southern Railway
President at Washington.

Washington-The funeral of Presi-
dent Samuel Spencer of the Southern
railway, who lost his life in the rail
road collision at Lawyers, Va, took
place at st. Johns church, in this city.
The burial services were private. For
five minutes during the funeral hour
every train and all machinery of the
entire Southern railway system was at
standstill, as mark of respect to
the late president.
The active pallbearers consisted Of
ten of the oldest negro porters in the
service of the Southern. The honor
airy pallbearers included the vice pres
idents and officials Of the road, ]. Pier
pont Morgan and other prominent
financiers of New York
Mexico Missouri message., 1906-12-06
The Rockefeller Foundation.

New York--Annopncement is made
that at a meeting of the general edu-
cation board, which has charge of the
John d. Rockefeller foundation for
higher education, the following APP
preparations were made: Lawrence
university, Appleton, Wis, $4,000;
Drury college, Springfield, Mo-, $780,
600; Richmond college, Richmond, Va,
$3.50, 900; Washington and Lee unlver-
sity, Lexington, Va, $4,000; Iowa col
lege, Grinnell, Ia, 100000. This
makes total of S667 500 contributed
from income of the Rockefeller foun-
dalton since the gift was received.
Mexico Missouri message., 1906-12-06
Indiana Railroad Commission
Makes It's First Report
lMAAM MGlMMAEAGN NNNNA NNANA NATURALIZATION

Indianapolis, Ind, Nov. 27.-The
watering" of railroad stocks, or over
capitalization by the large transpor-
tatiop lines, is commented upon by
the state railroad commission in it's
first report, which will be made to the
governor of Indiana in the next few
days. The report is the first the com.
mission will have filed since it's crea-
ton by the last general assembly, two
years ago.
The report shows that 43 roads re-
porting to the commission state the
value of the road and equipment, and
gives the value of each per mile.
Along with this report is also shown
the amount of stock issued. In the
Mexico Missouri message., 1906-12-06
CONSTITUTIONAL PROHIBITION.
Friends Of the Liquor Interest Uneasy
In Oklahoma,

Guthrie. Okla.--In the constitutional
convention, President Murray submit
ted his forty-six committees. The OPP
ponents of the proposition. were dis
turbed over the appointment of a pro
hibitionist. X. j. Kurl. of Bartlesville,
as chairman of the liquor committee.
The statehood enabling act places the
Indian territory portion OF the new
state under prohibition for a period
of 81 years, and it is believed that
ar effort is being made by the In
dian territory delegates to bring about
constitutional prohibition over the en-
tire state