davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30

for five dollars and less. Another hand
made hat is built of natural colored straw
ten-inch widths. like sash ribbon, edged
with satin straw. being folded and crushed
together to form a tip tilted toque with n
big bow OF the straw at the left side. Pale
blue aigrettes rise from this bow. Huge
buckles made OF straw are also stunning
additions to simple outing hats.
AS a last word TO the woman who pays
respect TO Dame Fashion as well as to a
good time on her summer vacation, remem-
Der to have silk lace or lingerie bolere
among your ether accessories. and II you
can't AFFORD one of those inimitable little
affairs made up from dainty bits of lace
braid and hand-embroidered n.edallions.
have regard to the latest advice from
Paris which says that a fancy plaid or
check silk bolero to wear with sheer sum-
mer frocks of all sorts and descriptions is
emphatically the latest and most approved
wrinkle
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30

ful confections seen entering or leaving
some one OF the various railway stations;
and 50 complete is the Partisan TRANSITIONAL
ton that nobody would recognize the wear
ers OF these as the same persons who ar
rived but a little while ago.
OF equal. perhaps more, Importance Is
TO have the entree of some first-class place
where these feats of cunning millinery are
turned out. In midsummer the best people
give almost their entire attention to them.
one well-known fatseur having achieved an
enyiable reputation here through travelling
toilettes alone. So to this artist of renown
the writer went yesterday, the great ma
ker who has the manner and appearance
OF any elegant man OF the world. begin
ming:
who are my best eustomersf Why
after Parisians Americans, of course.
Americans don't care what thing costs.
They have natural taste, besides-admira-
Bile taste-and, above everything. the slim
figures necessary for chic dress"
An Exact Science.
gentle tap at the Partisan here who
gets fat, alas too soon, and once more a
very amiable little sermon against the tot
lettes first worn by the stranger.
For dress u science, an education
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30
TRAVELLING COSTUMES
The "Artist" ModiSte Reveals
Many Secrets
ABOUT FASTiDI0Us ATTIRE
lie Says That Plaids Are Decidedly
':TLe Thing"
WASH HEATHER GLOVES
Coquettish Arrangement of Wells
is a Noticeable
Feature.
ABOUT FASTiDI0Us ATTIRE
spocla. Correspondence Of no star.

spocio. Correspondence Of I'm, Star.
PARIS. Jlne 81, 1906
Costumes de voyage are just now Occupy
ing she attention OF many of the great
makers
THE reason?" said one great maker.
We'll. it is because o. the enormous de-
mand Paris is fun OF travellers. and. ex-
cept for Americans, VINO have as a rule.
excellent taste. they AL arrive atrociously
dressed" French w.ttic.sms on this last
point are everywhere heard, and it must be
confessed that America does not always re-
ceive the bouquet. The train scarcely puffs
into the station ere the stranger IS spotted.
something odd, to French eyes, giving her
away. Eyebrows lift as a fair daughter OF
Britain goes by with ner Ions tread, and
comment is audible and not always beauti-
ful. "Regardez, Another tournure. still
another Bath bum"
This gets to be funny after while, for
directly the listener sees that England is
really a country Of enor5neus teurnures and
Bath buns Nine out OF every ten English
women go by with the ungaioiy hump at the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30

on the smart little morning hats and crea-
tons of the plafnerer the genteelerer"
style intended to accompany tailor-made
costumes Soft taffeta ribbon is perhaps
first favoritei one sees 1t in all the new
shades, in plaids, stripes and pompadour
effects. 1t is noticeable that though gen.
orally to be found on the hower-trimmed
hat. it is rarely mixed with flowers after
the manner of the ever-popular tulle Thus
peigne draped with ribbon, while on a hat
where the cache-peigne consists of bios
SONS and foliage massed together a ribbon
wreath formed of tiny loops closely gath
may be swathed or folded round the crown
and finished with a smart ribbon aigrette
at the side. Travelling hats are mostly
trimmed with ribbon only with the addition
Ola quill or neat buckle.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30

and buttons, or, as in the coaching coat
pictured in the lining of the hood and cape
Tan pongee and crash coats of three-quar-
ter length are commended as being useful in
daytime and evening alike These in
their most irresistible guise bear a military
stamp in the double-breasted effect with
brass or black velvet buttons and gold en-
broidered collar.
Coats for motoring are In silk. and white
or toned shades of scarlet continue to be
fayorites. The white motoring hat too, is
everywhere affected by fashionable women
and the many little toques which come for
the purpose fill the bill to the very top of a
T. Small mushroom and vizor-cap shapes
In white or cream-colored straw not only
become the prettiest and the plainest faces
but they Mt so securely on the head that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30

back. and the round, smooth, net-covered
wad Of hair which 10 Partisan eyes. used
70 the cushioned and curled wonders of the
couture Il the moment, has no reason what
ever for being.
However, as far as the American woman
IS concerned, she is soon so Parisian!zed
that IL IS often difficult to separate her from
her French sisters. Then many travellers
who know The aHnuyanCes which arise in
Paris from too obvious strangerhood often
buy French travelling wraps in London, and
so make their entree into the beautiful city
without remark
with it all Paris is full Of Inconsistencies
in this Rli-impoUtant matter. Visitors from
the Proveuces, whose styles are renewed
only every ten years, pass unremarked,
while all the odd costumes Of costume coun-
tries are accepted as a matter OF course.
Thus ia Paris at once the most capricious
and most delightful city in the whole world.
The Real Thing.
To see travelling toilettes in their perfec-
ton 1t IS first OF all nece ssary 10 encounter
elegant travellers en- voyage. This Is diff
cult with the native Partisan, as the smart
class here IL very exclusive. and private
railway carriages and automobiles hide the
Taveler from common eyes.
Notwithstanding, there are some delight
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30
FOR VACATION WEAR
Models in Ready Made Frocks,
Waists and Hats.
THE POLKA DOT EFFECTS
Evening Gowns With Inserts of Polka
Dot Organize.
PONGEES ARE ALWAYS COOL
The Value Of Light Silk Coat for
All Around
9oNGEEs ARE ALWAYS COOL

Written for The Star by Katharine Anderson.
At this late day fashions are of vital In
terest to bat one class of women-those
who obliged either through lack of
time or of funds 60 buy their wardrobe at
the last moment. This class is not very
small one, though. and as a consequence
the midsummer offerings in the shops are
in many ways quite as tempting as those
which were eagerly snatched up earlier
in the season.
Everything now. however. is made up
ready to wear, and view Of the pretty
things spread out and to catch the fancy of
eleventh hour shoppers reveals not possi-
bilities in the way of fabrics. trimmings,
ETC.. but finished frocks, coats and head
gear. Most of these strike a note quite In
accord with the wrinkles of summers most
exclusive modes. and If a woman has kept
at all in touch with earlier fashions she
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30

they defy even q hurricane wind. Wings
applied In Alsatian effect directly either
In front, or ribbon rosettes gracing either
side OF the front. trim these hats very SIM
cap OF straw, set OF by fawn colored wings
branching from baby blue ribbon knots and
tied under the chin by fawn colored strings.
On q trinity coifurad head this hat gives
the jaunty effect Of navy officers cap.
For fast driving 1t ii protected by fawn
colored hood OF thinnest silk.
II the vacatIonist has need OF travelling
hat, the best investment she can make will
be q handmade toque of Neapolitan or
other supple straw, The imported tailored
models are now marked down to cost prices.
and the outing hat pictured Is smart IL
iustration Of Whist . shopper can pick mp
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30
Sleeves of the Passing Hour.

From the Tattler.
The cape sleeve is seen in a good many
of the later French models, some OF them
being built rather on the sloptng lines or
1880 instead of having the raised-shoulder
effect TO which we have grown accustomed.
Fashion is very disconcerting In this way.
but there is no sign as yet OF a general
move in this direction, and the popularity
ed. Very smart are the coatee sleeves
caught back halfway between shoulder and
elbow, forming a kind OF revers held in
place by ornamental buttons, beneath which
an under sleeve. generally or lace ana snort
to the elbow, is visible. Others. again, of
these halfway sleeves are not caught back
but edged with taffetas or embroidery. or
both, and show the pun of the blouse
sleeve underneath. Epaulettes, too. have
been Introduced in some of the corseiet
gowns and have very smart effect.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30
A Smart Frock.

From the Tattier.
new material have lately encountered
has narrow raised stripes-interwoven at
Interchangeable very fne pin tucks.
A model frock composed OF It was very
pretty gray lined with pale tan taffetas. the
effect OF this Color cleaning through the
semi-transparency OF the material being
charming. 1t seems indeed feature OF the
best gowns this year that they should not
be obvious. the soft haif-tones produced by
the blending Of several being aimed at 70
this end the shot foundation Ia a valuable
aid. The only trimming consisted OF folds
OF gray chine silk with gray lace picked
out with q fins tan cord with . single
thread OF gold entwinsd.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30

and madame comes TO Paris-assurement-
to learn The moral OF this Is obvieus-go
to Monsieur D. Immediately upon ar
rival To come to the toilettes them
observed, were this great artists hrst
choice.
'.Plaids in every conceivable texture you
see; cheviot homespun, laine, naohair, silk.
etc And observe nothing eclatant-knock-
ing. as you say in English-too obtrusive
too cheekerboard. All medium-sized with
soft uHdershadow ard bias effect Ihar
is essential. the bias-and Will you peheFe
Il? this graceful crossing is done In the
weaving. Then with plaid-blue, red,
brown, dove-gray or fume-a touch Of deep
err velvet for collar, cuffs. belt. etc. and a
white vest. But all of this for the coat
for there are no plaid gowns. Remember
that no plaid toiIettes du tout. though tiny
checks - ininitesinlal - may appear. Cha
peau, shoes. gloves, all must be IN Keeping
A travelling chapeau am exploiting has
vel of chiffon cloth This is good for dust,
hangs gracefully by moments, hides mad
ames WEAKNESS at others, and always en-
hanees her beauty.
No Buttons
Gloves? Biarritz are my giants. those
which slip over the hand very loosely
without buttons, and preferably of wash
leather. Then with costumes In almost
any color 1 advise laced boets-short tops.
of Russia leather, blucher fastenings, of
dull red or brown. For brown shoes cham
payne and dust are new shades"
AS to form for coats shown by this
maker, models were countless. A species
of half-fitting raglan with a cape-eover-
ing only the shoulder and back of the
coat-was one exclusive design. with
which, despite his furry against plaid toll
lettes, went a matching skirt. Monsieur
explained this readily: The under blouse,
you see, is plain brown silk, and this and
the white pique vest of the coat cut the
uginess all-plaid would make. Though,
he smiled deprecatingly, 1.-The skirt was my
customers choice"
with this stunning coat and skirt, the
blurred brown plaid of which had the de-
sired bias. went an equally effective hat.
The shape was species of French sailor,
very vice in brim, large and fiat in crown
of brown satin straw. which an immensely
long veil of white chiffon cloth trimmed
entirely. One end of this veil was tied in
a huge bow at the front of the hat, and
the other spreading out widely, fell in a
long square behind white Btarritz
gloves and brown shoes and brown uubrel-
Ia" said Monsieur in conclusion, should
accompany this very smart little plaid rag
Ian cape with a wide hood for a child
of seven"
81
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30

loops and the rosette Take little sailor
shape for instance OF pale-blue chip. Usa
Tor It's srisnming a delicate gray wing:
fasten the wing to the right side of fhs
crown with two fiat rosettes OF white
maine. edged with a narrow little plalt-
ing OF silver ribbon. The wing should be
caught between the rosettes. Now to
give the hat the character Il needs. add A
beauty touch of many loops of black velvet
ribbon at the back. Another smart com
olnaticn OF color to use In a hat Of this
sort is TO have the hat itself cream color
the wing white. and the rosette white
edged with little plating OF gold ribbon
Then instead Of using black velvet ribbon
Tor the cachepeigne have the velvet loops
In golden brown
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30
and to be strictly up to date q woman must
have at least one coin-spotted dress in her

and to be strictly up to date a woman must
have at least one cofn-spotted dress in her
wardrobe.
For everyday wear charming little waists
in tan or white linen dotted with large
black or blue moons are selling for song.
and these. In accordance with all smart and
practical negiige bodices, show low turn
over collars and short sleeves.
Satin Foulards.
Then, for afternoon use, there are the
polka dot foulards of satin and soft silk.
Black and white dots, dark blue with white
dots. cherry color with deeper dots, and
lemon color with orange dots. all range
themselves In the array Of simple accordion
pleated and shirt waist dresses. Dainty lin
gerie yokes. or In still later style. yokes
made from narrow stripes OF the silk fagot-
ed In renaissance effect. alone trim and
complete these useful and becoming frocks.
but q more trim and genuinely chic dress
than one of these no woman could wish to
possess, and they can be purchased any
where from $12 to $36.
When 1t comes to lawn and evening gowns
the limit has not yet been placed on the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30
Americans in London.
From the London Sketch.

from the LONDON Sketch.
At Westminster Abbey the other day I
overheard visitor. at the head OF a party
of Americans who were doing London in
q day, ask one of the vergers. Say. we
have not ten minutes to do the Abbey and
get to the Guiidhau. VIII you kindly point
out where Cardinal Vaughn Ia buried p
The verger drew himself UP and with an
austere look said, II suppose. sir, you mean
Thomas q Beckett That's So" was
the reply. and bystander who had listen
ed with great interest to the inquiry helped
out the situation by directing the party to
Westminster Cathedral. As the American
ambassador has not been asked to intervene
1t is supposed that the visitors found out
the trifiing error and did not go to West
minister Cathedral
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30
In tho Poultry Yard
rom the Outing Magazine,

From the Outing Magaalne.
The ideal site for poultry yard is dry.
rather high piece of ground, having slope
to the south or east. Natural drainage
should be good. A yard located on a nat,
UNFRAMED surface viii never give satisfac-
ton. A light soil Is vastly superior to
heavy one-if sandy. SO much the better.
Clay land is objectionable because hens
cannot scratch to advantage IN IT, and un-
less hens can scratch and pulyerize the soil
into dust they viii not do wen. Poultry
grounds should be protected on the north
and west by buildings. a. high. tight board
fence or a thick hedge of evergreens-
something that viii break the force OF the
prevailing winds.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30

Delightful things are seen in travelling I'M
derwear. which is rarely white here. Black
or dust colors for travelling these exploited
in soft silk. pongee and batiste of sublime
softness 1t seems strange to see this SOM
berly hued underwear. but every thing Is so
exquisitely made 50 dafntily ueedleworked,
that nue. Is no detriment. Then, when the
uncertainties of unknown iaundries come to
be considered. IL Is easily understood why
travelling lingerie is not white.
Fine Laundry Work.
In Paris alone the careful and gifted
blanchisseuse is q tradition. The best iaun-
dries do up things exquisiteiy. but tinted
handkerchief borders and delicate textiles
are soon a thing OF the past. Hard water
and harder soaps are responsible for this.
but so complete Is the cleaning method that
the traveller may laugh at even bottles Of
ink, hair dye or what-not spilled over every
thing.
There Is word upon the carpet that some
OF the travelling coats and gowns now be-
ing made presage autumn styles. Some
are plainly notifications OF spring effects.
for when French makers have found /
charming style they wisely continue It -
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30

has no alternative but to choose smart gar
ments. What is more, they will be reason
able In cost, for dealers seldom venture to
ask other than rock bottom prices when
the season will so soon be at an end.
A very striking feature of the light
ready-to-wear frocks Is the predominance
of polka dots, large and medium size both
In the materials themselves and in the fab
RIGS which trim them. To be sure, there
has not been a summer for many a year
when disc designs have not made their ap-
pearance, but the polka dot rules this sea-
son as it has never before In its history,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30
Little Theater Hats.

Paris is exceedingly busy asking herself
whether the large matinee hat should be
allowed in the theater or not. The Count
sss de Greffuehe has so far interested her
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30

peciaIly for garments which are to be worn
at the beginning OF season, before entirely
new modes may be launched. Conspicuous
among the novelties OF the moment are
some closely fitting coats with almost tight
sleeves, and hip and three-quarter lengths.
These are predicted FOR tailor gowns whose
skirts are likely to be short enough to es-
cape the ground all round, and with
godet fuilness. One little frcek OF this sort
worn by a wax manikin at smart place
had a military trimming of black braid.
gilt buttons and. scarlet cloth
Braid Trimmings.
The vogue of all the silky handsome
braids OF the summer continues undated,
and gowns shown for first autumn use al
most invariably display them. Very narrow
vests in some sharply contrasting color also
distinguish a number of these frocks, es-
pecially those with coarse, manHish coats
Accompanying these dapper frocks. Whfch
are shown in coarsefy ribbed serges. cloth.
cheyiot etc, are some little turbanS OF
close build, with bird breasts and wing
trimmings. These sit upon the coiffures
which are daily becoming more elaborate,
with a conlica1 snallness; but the hat Is
only complement to the hair arrangement
nowadays and so prevailing is this exac-
ton that the woman with much hat and lit
tie hair is quite an eecentricity.
Many costumes for autumn brides are In
Guided among the travelling things, some
of these showing skirts and long loose coats
in pale brown. lava gray or Vesuyius red
cloth. These last titles, as may be fancied,
have been Inspired by the Italian tragedy.
San Francisco contributing the name OF
earthquake to a tremulous color, very
nearly opalescent, employed by one maker
for chiffons. Paris is full of fancies. and
the greatest tragedy gives inspiration for
flights. The delicate shades of earthquake
sands thrown up in Italy and California are
all copied by late colors, and the most mod
ish travelling umbrellas have handles or
carved lava.
Spanish Styles.
More charming inspiration is gained from
Princess Ena's marriage this important
event giving rise to a tremendous revival
In Spanish shawls and ornaments of all
sorts These shawls, which have long
fringes and magnificent embrolderies, are
already worn by Parisiennes for evening
wraps with immense chic. The shawl is
carried tightly across the bust and beld in
place by the left arm. This disposal is
eminently Spanish, showing off slim fig
ure, besides, to perfection. The long scarfs
are worn in the same way; or after being
drawn tight over the arms, the ends are al
lowed to hang at each side
The huge Spanish combs though unsuited
to the present styles of coiffures, are also
everywhere shown, while the newest fans
are immensely big and Spanish in decora-
ton.
Returning to travelling toilets, three of
those here pictured have been described.
The two remaining costumes, ordered for
October brides, are of cloth, In rouge We
suve and lava gray. Appropriate hats. the
abundance OF whose feathers predicts con-
tinuance for these handsome ornaments
accompany them. NINA FITCH.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30
The Reign of Ribbon.
From the Tattler.

From the TattIer.
In the matter of millinery, ribbon is of
supreme Importance just now, especially
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30
For Rough Wear.

And now as to ready-to-wear wraps. For
general purposes the coat of the spring
and summer suit is all the average woman
requires, but the vaeationist who is look
ing forward to any kind of jolly. outdoor
life during the next few months must have
some sort of a surtout for driving motor
ing tramping. Stylish tailored affairs at
reduced prices show, all of them. con-
trasting note or color in the revers CUTS
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30

polka dot craze, and while the effect pro-
duced by the eofn-spots Is unique rather
than striking because of the delicate color
ings in which they appear. In pink or blue
or lavender fints. they give extreme dis
tinctioh TO whatever they adorn They
are employed in most novel way on some
OF the ready-to-wear froclss by serving as
trimming for exquisite nlrny creations of
organdie and lace
Eight Inch Inserts.
One such gown which did not fail to
draw the attention of every woman who
passed a certain fashionable modiste's win
dow where it was on display showed vide
enlpiecements of white organdie stamped
with coin-spots in the faintest blush of
cherry color. These insertions eight inches
wide, encircied the small pulled sleeves ard
the full bodice just at the waist line. while
two empecements twelve inches in width
and edged with the tiniest Valenciennes
frills carried out the color scheme In the
sweeping diaphanOus skirt
To return to practical apparel, word
must be vouehsafed to the pongee freck in
natural coloring. Somehow. as the summer
days grow hotter. these unobtrusive yet
cool little dresses stand out they never
do at any other time of the year There
fore If you are considering a sensible, all
round satisfactory garment. do look at what
is offered in this linen-colored silk. for the
woman of moderate income cannot help but
find II all she could wish.
Cut on princess lines, the pongee dress
is unusually charming. and let me- say
right here if the shopper would have hers
exceptionally swagger she should choose
one which is in some way set off by black.
The pongee with black polka dots. the pom
gee which is put together by black spiders
and fagotings of black silk. or the pongee
which shows merely girdle of supple black
satin at the head of the corselet skirt. end
ing In wide bow In front-al express that
indefnable yet exclusive modshness which
emanates first, last and always from the
dressmakers of Paris.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-06-30
A Hading Model.

Another maker, renowned for riding