davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-04-22
CALENDAR AND NOVELTIES.
OPTICIANS.

ALEXAN DER Optical Co. ANY lens 1u
pl'caTed. :30-1-2 Atlas block.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-04-22
PERSONAL.

DEBTS collected anywhere. no fee IN
less successful. Correspondence solicited
a2d answered promptly. Phoenix Law
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-04-22
Hat FACTORY.

HATS blocked and retrimmed by an ex-
pert Fred Taylor, "A E. LIST So Phone 1S7-x
UTAH Hat factory Practical hatters
Hats Of all kinds cleaned. blocked. pres
sed. PA So. Min. Ind. phone 1893
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-04-22
CARPET CLEANING.

FLUFF RUG works. 2S6 West Sout h
Temple. Edw Gaby. Propr. Phone Ind
1909; Bell. 1209-X
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-04-22
SEEDS! SEEDS! SEEDS,

ALL KINDS seeds at Bailey a So1-T
Seed Store, S. E. Cd So Phones 81.
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-04-22
CASH REGISTERS.

NATIONAL CASH REGISTERS Oecs
GrOshen sales agent <or Utah Expert
ash register epairinS No 81 Main s.
Seoo"d-har@ rn%is+erS aiWavs - stock
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-04-22
EDUCATIONAL.

GATRELL' Unique School OF Short
hsrd end Tvpewriting. Hooner bu'lGlng
The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-04-22
HOTELS.
HOUSE CLEANING.
DOGS.

THOROUGHBRED Cocker Spaniel
DuDS- Call at 65S E 1st South street
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-07-22

Then, too, OF course. the colored batiste
gowns embroidered in white are ex-
ceedingly pretty. Embroidered crepe
de chine Is every bit as fashionable as
ever, and the silk crepes are now en-
broidered in all colors. as well as in
black and white. Silver embroidery is
a favorite trimming this year. and
against soft white satin of in fact al
most any shade the silver shows UP
remarkably well.
Every year ii seems as though the
one time "charmingly simple" wedding
gown were growing more elaborate.
Certain 1t Is that the handsomest
models seen this spring and summer
that were not entirely of lace owed
their beauty to the quality and amount
of their embroidery. Some soft satin
or satin finished silk is used more to-
day than the heavier true satin. Lib
erty satin or finished crepe. en-
broidered deliberately in silver, makes
an exquisite gown. and involves
welcome departure from the conven-
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-07-22

tional princess white satin gown. II
the gown itself is not embroidered a
long court train. with a band or border
of silver thread worked IN some raised
pattern, makes, of course, a handsome
background of the dress. White satin
embroidered in white Is. il is needless
to state, extremely handsome and will
by many be considered more appropriate
for a wedding gown than the silver
embroidery. although the latter Is nat
urally the more effective OF the two.
Embroidery. then. of all kinds and
varieties. forms the groundwork for
the trimming OF this summers trous-
seau- In all departments OF dress. from
the shirt waist to the garden hat and
parasol. and from travelling dress to
a ball gown, effective embroidery Is
necessary to give the finishing note
of fashion to the costume. Beauty
counts for more than quantity in a
handsome design. and the finer the
work the less of it is necessary to
make handsome and a smart gown.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-07-22
Embroidered Grey Cloth Costume

unquestionably useful in hot weather
for driving and even automobiling to
protect thin and perishabie lawn gowns
The majority of these longer wraps are
q good three-quarter in length, made
with just suggestion of fitting in a,
the belt, and in front are double-breast-
ed, with large pearl or fancy buttons.
The sleeves are full, some long, but
many three-quarter and elbow lengths.
A large open embroidered design is ef-
fective for the entire coat. but this often
makes thin lining necessary. so that
the heavier closed pattern is made prac-
1 ticable. Instead OF being embroidered
all over many are made OF the plain
linen. pique or tareta batiste, finished
only with a collar. cuffs and cape or
peleFln OF embroidery or embroidered
lingerie. White Is the color generally
preferred, but there are many colored
linen wraps that are remarkably at
tractive. The advantage OF this sort of
wrap over any other is that It can be
SO readily washed and can always be
kept in good order. Like the lingerie
waist, embroidered coats are already to
be found with the machine work, but
these are not so inexpensive, and 1t
were better to have the simplest design
in handwork than the most elaborate
pattern on waist or coat in the machine
embroidery.
Summer afternoon and evening gowns
described as embroidered lingerie
dresses are truly exquisite. These
yards OF lace. both Irish and Valen.
ciennes being used, although the latter,
being finer, seems the more appropriate
with the material Quite as pretty and
perhaps a trife newer than the en-
broidered handkerchief linen gowns are
the dresses formed OF alternate rows OF
yalenciennes lace and batIste enbroid-
cry. Both lace and embroidery are from
2 to 3 inches in width. The gown is, OF
course, made princesse, and the train
is Of but medium length. The model is
much the same whether cut high or low.
With decollete gown a deep bertha
may be added of lace. or the lace and
embroidery combined, bat this bertha
is not necessary unless greater breadth
across the shoulders is desired. There
are comparatively few fine dresses now
made with a girdle. The dress Is In
stead Joined at the waist with a strip OF
lace or embroidery. feather boning be-
ing added when necessary. Three or
four of the silk-covered feather bones
will serve nicely to keep this delicate
belt in place.
Embroidered batiste gowns in pale
shades of blue. pink mauve and green
are many Of them exceedingly pretty.
One model, in pale blue batiste. was
particularly attractive. This gown
was made with low Dutch collar, or
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-07-22

scneme OF princess stays, which insure
perfectly nodded contour and give
that coveted sheathiike appearance to
the wearers costume.
IL takes Partisan to think out such
clever solution of the dress problem,
and no one but a Partisan would have
the temerity TO suggest brocaded silk
petticoat and stays or a cobwebby lin
gerle connection made all In one piece
All the smart women at the European
watering places are wearing them, how
ever, and a few Americans who are
devoted to princess gowns have brought
a supply back in their trunks and have
arranged to send for more when those
on hand wear out or when new gowns
demand additional foundations of this
kind
AS yet the New York oorsetieres have
not attempted to copy these remarkable
models, but when one of the foremost
In her line was asked about the new
princess stays she sighed and replied
that she was counting on offering them
TO her fastidious customers in the fall
I'VE shall have to come to It," said
the corset-maker. with an air of seeing
trouble ahead, land these one-piece
garments are really the only thing to
wear with eprincess gown, especially
II woman is the least bit stout. You
know how 1t is with the wealthy wom-
an OF fashion. She insists on having
her costumes cut after the mode of the
moment, and If she is not built to suit
the style she has to be made over, in
stead of the fashion, being altered to
suit her.
Now, as everybody knows. princess
gown is the hardest one in the world to
wear we'll In fact, no one who doesn't
possess an absolutely perfect figure
should attempt 1t; but what Is the use
Of laying down such hard and fast
rules? Nobody pays any attention to
them. and we corset makers and the
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-07-22

choose to have them, and when they
are quite long it Is noticed that they
prevent that ugly break in the back
of gown that so often mars the
beauty of the princess model
Upon this body sheath there Is gath
cred a dainty petticoat which Is a
dream OF loneliness. Sometimes the
whole thing, corset and petticoat, is
made OF brocaded silk or figured tat
feta-that is, when IT is to be worn
with heavy gown. and then the
1ounee is usually OF wide valenciennes
lace set on the petticoat with a wide
beading through which Is run a broad
satin ribbon.
When the petticoat corset is destined
to be the foundation for a lingerie
gown thin nainsook or batiste IL used
for Its construction. and In order to
give body to the stays a Arm piece
Of the material is used for this part
One very dainty combination is OF
white batiste laced in the back and
supplied with two sets OF whalebones
running far down below the hips 40
that an absolutely symmetrical ana
continuous line Is given. which IL
achieved with remarkable skill The
petticoat itself has two narrow frills
OF batiste put on as a heading for a
wider one. and all are finished at the
bottom with narrow ruching OF white
taneta- Above the frtlls an embroid-
cry design decorates the petticoat In
vines that climb upward for about
eighteen inches.
II the gown fable is not too thin
then the extra slip lining IS done away
with entirely and a corset pettfcoat ia
substituted For instance. a rose-coi-
ored silk null costume was worn ovsr
a corset petticoat to match with a per-
lection OF Mt and such a decided de-
crease to the waist and hips thas h
was a source OF great Joy to the 60
man whom IL encased.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-07-22

dressmakers are held responsible for
any discrepancy Of outline, and upon us
falls the work of moIding a figure In
clined to embonpoint into a slender
Looking creature. and a willowy: syiph-
like form must have all it's good poihts
emphasized and curves brought out
where originally curves were lacking.
This Is harder problem than 1t was
when the straight front was in vogue.
for then a woman with q large bust
could get rid of it--at least, she could
reduce its apparent size by increasing
her waist--but this season you must
have a small, round waist and so what
are you going to do with large hips
and bust? We simply have to get rid
Of every ounce of superf1uous under
clothing, and hence the new petticoat
corset will be welcomed with open arms
by the average woman.
LAS matter of fact the smart woman
this summer wears nothing underneath
but princess or one-piece garments.
She first puts on a very thin silk COM
bination, the upper part cut low and
the drawers part without any frills or
trimming. There are some women who
do not like this plain style of under
wear, even though it does away with
a lot of material which Is superfiueus
when one Is seeking the minimum OF
underclothing. Such women substitute
for the combination f1fmsy nainsook
or batiste chemise and pair of draw
ers to match, and then they are ready
to don the petticoat stays. When the
combinations are worn there Is no
break whatever at the waist and the
stays can be pulled in tighter with less
discomfort to the wearer. 1t is true,
though from hygienic point of view 1t
Is sad to admit, that women are starting
on the road that leads to tight lacing.
They may not go very far before
fashion turns them back by giving
them some other style OF dress to wear,
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-07-22

but where a woman had a waist meas
urement OF twenty-six or twenty
eight under the regime of the straight
front she now gets her measure down
to twenty-four or twenty-seven. She
wears her belts from one to two inches
smaller than she did"
The new princess petticoat corsets
are marvels OF beauty and elegance.
though in some cases the elegance
might be classed with simplicity. The
main idea seems to be to get something
that will be as thin as possible. partly
for comfort during the summer months
and partly for the sake OF taking up
very little space From the arms to
the knees these creations it the figure
like sheath and below the knees they
billow in 1ounces of delicate embroid-
cry, lace or silk ruchings. Most OF the
corsets built upon this model lace in
the back, and the front is cut down In
the center, giving a heart-shaped out
line to the bust. This is finished with
a bit OF eyelet embroidery or band OF
vaienciennes applied very Hat. Upon
the bottom OF the corset-that Is, what
would be the bottom OF the ordinary
corset-a deep sort OF yoke Is attached
and made a part OF the stays. 1t Is cut
In a long, slender point in front and at
the sides, sometimes the front one ex-
tending from four to six inches below
the knees.
There are no bones or steels reach
ing lower In front than the usual
length where the corset does not
fasten here. but the sides are stiffened
with real whalebone. nearly the whole
length of the bone being put In so thai
from under the arms to midway OF the
knees there Is an unbrokep curve
which even the movement of the body
cannot wholly destroy. The same idea
is followed out in the back OF the
petticoat corset, the whalebone extend
Ing to any depth the wearer may
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-07-22

rather yoke, of Irish lace, below which
the material bloused softly, but was
nevertheless made princesse, with the
corselet effect formed by horizontal
rows of Vaienciennes lace between
tucked bands of the material. The en-
tire gown was embroidered in little
forget-me-not design worked in white
linen thread. There was no other
trimming on the skirt save two wide
tucks above the hem. The sleeves were
full at the shoulder, with wide cuff
formed OF Valenciennes insertion and
medallions of Irish lace The same
style of gown is to be seen in white,
with some small open embroidered hg-
ure. When worn over a faint color the
effect is charming.
Not satisfied with real lace just as 1t
stands, Dame Fashion now DEGREES that
finest Valenciennes shall be en-
broidered so that the design may show
up the more effectively. On fine en-
broidered gowns trimmed with wide
insertion of Valenciennes lace the add
ed handwork unauestionably does make
the lace more strikingly handsome, but
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-07-22


to the cleverness of their dress
makers. but more especially accord
ing to the foundation upon which
this fashionable gown model is built
To the woman who has crossed the
border of girlish slightness Of figure
this foundation is everything. A
crease or q wrinkle or a fold in her
lingerie means just that much added
to her size, and possibly by 1t the
spelling of an effect which might other
wise cause her to be styled a Venus
or a Juno.
With princess gown the figure is
the thing, and if woman does not pos
sess one naturally she must study to
make the very best of the few good
points she does possess. There was
time when all that was necessary to
be worn with a princess gown in ad-
dition to ones usual lingerie was a
well-boned one-piece slip, usually
made OF thick silk or taffeta. This did
away with the extra material around
the waist. where q petticoat fastened
and made a ridge. however smoothly
1t might be fitted and made But with
the new summer gowns, which are cut
in this one-piece style and made of the
sheerest materials that looms can pos
sibly weave, even the silk slip leaves
much to be desired in the struggle for
unbroken lines. and so q clever Pari-
Sian corset maker has hit upon the
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-07-22

more opportunity to lead because of
the loose, graceful folds in which the
material falls; and another. more
striking effects are attempted and ap-
proved than are considered suitable in
any other style of dress. The lighter
tea gowns, OF course, are mostly in
white batiste and lace sometimes made
up over a colored silk foundation.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-07-22
Ivory ClothGoWnA WITH Cameo
Embronder

then real lace in itself always seems SO
beautiful that it is a pity to attempt
to improve upon it.
or embroidered costumes the tea
gowns must take first rank this year.
whether of chiffon, satin batiste or
crepe de chine. there seems to be more
pains taken to make the embroidery
enective, the reason being that it has
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-07-22
advent Of the PetticOat Corset

yERYwHERE you turn you
see women in princess Gre
, atoms of more or less sym
metry as to outline, according
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1906-07-03
TOP OF CAR
PLAN FOR SHIPPING CATTLE.

In shipping by freight, it is generally
necessary for some man to accom-
pany the stock as an attendant, and
then feed, bedding, etc, is supplied for
the trip, and the attendant is expected
to care for. feed and water the stock.
The animals can be placed in stalls
that are made in the car, or in stan
chions which run the length of the
car. These are made by taking two
four or fiye-inch pieces at top and two
more at bottom, and at regular inter.
walls place an upright which is securely
fastened to these pieces, and also to
the floor and roof of the car: then in
between these pieces or uprights,
place piece that reaches from floor
Just to the top of the frame. being
pinned at the base so that it will move
enough at the top to allow the ami
mails head to enter the space, then
close the space and put in another pin
at the top to hold it there firmly. The
diagram shows this stanchion The
animals, of course, stand sideways in
the car, and unless exceptionally large
will have ample room in the ordinary
eight-foot-wide car, and leave a space
in front of the stanchion for feeding
Hay in small bales can be carried over
the animals by building a sort of a
floor over them. Water can be carried
in barrels near the doorways to be
used in case of necessity or haste
Where only one of two animals are to
be shipped by freight. suggests the Ru-
raj New Yorker, they can be tied in
the end Of the car, or a cheap stall
made. Almost all railways require
the presence of an attendant. and gen.
orally give free fare. at least one way,
and sometimes both ways.
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1906-07-03
RAILS AND WIRE FENCING.
old Style Fencing Giving Way Slowly
But Surely to the More Mod
ern Method.

Much of the old rail fence is still
in use in many sections. Though not
so neat and attractive as the wire or
board fence, 1t has some points OF ad-
vantage over other kinds. The rail
fence can be easily opened to pass
through from field to field with binder
or other machinery. Also rails make
handy cross fences or hog lot fences,
being easily taken down and put up
again, so as to change size OF, or
subdiyide lots or fields. About the
first rails made were split out of
white oak and many of these, after
40 OF so years use, are yet sound. The
same may be said of chestnut rails,
but those made of black oak are not
so lasting. Stock, especially horses,
are seldom hurt by rail fences, yet
many are ruined or blemished for life
by barbed wire cuts.
The barbed or woven wire fence is
a necessity in places where little other
material is to be had, and eventually,
when the wooden fances have all rot
ted down, we must use the wire, which
is neat, looks we'll, takes up little room
and fewer posts than the rail fence. 1t
will stand up longer and better against
wind and proves an effective barrier
to passage of farm stock or some wild
animals.
AS fast as needed supplant rails with
woven wire about 81 inches high of
nine strands. Two inches above it
stretch a barbed wire. This will turn
horses, cattle, hogs and sheep, but
another wire eight inches higher
makes 1t safer for horses or unruly
stock, says the Farm and Home. Posts
should be placed about eight feet apart
and alternate ones need only reach to
top of woven wire, and these might be
OF old rails cut five feet long. Long
posts should be of heavy white oak
and six and one-half to seven feet
long, inserted two to two and one-half
feet in ground. Stretch all wires tight
ly and anchor end or corner posts well
with heavy braces. Such fence with
two barbed wires will be about 48
inches high and cost for wire and posts
from 30 to 35 cents per rod.
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1906-07-03
TIMELY BEE TALK.
Various Helpful sugc ,stions for the
Man Who Has Bees for Pleas
ure or Profit.

When nectar is abundant in the
fields, and your bees hesitate about
starting work in the sections but crowd
the brood nest with it, try the follow
ing plan:
When the combs are sealed at the
top in the brood chambers, mash these
cells at the top OF the brood frames
with table fork; shut up the hive,
put the sections on, and then rap on
the hive. Do this just before dusk, and
you viii find the bees nicely at work
there the next morning
1t is not difficult to persuade any col
ony OF bees, OF proper strength, to
work in the section; but do it by rap
ping on the hive and driving them up.
They fill themselves with honey and
go up there and work. You have per-
haps scariied enough cells so that they
will have no cells except those to put
the honey in. The honey will have to
be taken out by the bees. II is forcing
process, as you might say, but it Sc
cures the result
A colony with abundant entrance for
air is less inclined to swarm than It
otherwise would be. Raising the hive
by putting an inch block under each
corner. and leaving the hive open all
around, is an excellent method for Civ
ing plenty of air. But do not expect
that the plan Of giving plenty of air
will entirely suffice to keep bees from
swarming.
l have used various methods OF
transferring, but have given the fol-
lowing the preference. These direc-
tons viii be applicable only to those
who have bees in frame hives.
If the bees TO be transferred are in
a common box, and the combs have not
been built down to the bottom, cut
down the box to the depth of the
comb, turn the bottom side up, and
put spacing sticks between the combs
TO prevent contact with each other.
Then place one of the standard hive
bodies on top, closing up all surplus
openings on the sides or ends Now
90 to colony of bees and remove a
frame of honey, and containing eggs
and larvae; place this in the vacant
body over the box, and fill up with
drawn comb or foundation. In a few
days, If you keep watch, you will find
the queen in the upper story; then
you quietly slip a queen excluder be-
tween this part and the old box. In
Fl days you can remove the lower part
and dispose of the comb as you see fit
Probably nothing is better than a
solar wax extractor, and for a small
quantity very cheap affair can be
gotten up, says Farm Journal box
covered with pane of glass, inside of
this an old dripping pan to catch the
melted wax that runs on, and you nave
a solar wax extractor. OF course the
dripping pan must be placed in cor
ner. 1t may be used as a wax extract
or at any time when the sun is not
shining. Place it in the oven of a
cook stove, leaving the oven door open.
with the split corner projecting out,
and a dish set on the kitchen floor to
catch the melted wax.
The silver messenger. (Challis, Idaho) 1890-1912, 1906-07-03
STOCK NOTES.

Pigs from young and immature
sows are likely to be weak. Do not
be afraid to use an old boar or an old
SOW.
Before the well-known hame-staple
breaks, you had better replace it with
a new one, or it may cause you to
lose a half day in a busy time.
Unless a man has some love for
cows, and some idea of what to do for
their comfort, he will never make a
success of dairying.-Farm Journal.
If you would get the best returns
from your investment in your horse,
treat him right, and be sure to clip
him in the early spring.-Horse Re
view.
Ground oats are much more val
liable as food for stock, fowls, etc,
than is wheat bran. Equal parts OF
ground oats. bran and Indian meal
make an ideal. ration.-Farm Journal.