East Oregonian : E.O. (Pendleton, OR) 1888-current, 1906-01-03
PLEA FOR GOOD PIE
1T is A WHOLESOME FOOD IF IT IS
PROPERLY MADE.

The Crust Should lie of Wafer-lilxe
ThinneSs and Crisp and FlRly.
Five Rules to be Observed In the
Making of n Perfect Pie.
Although food theorists and food
cranks have varying opinions as to the
wholesomeness of certain foods, they
one and all agree in denounclng pie.
1t is the one dish most ardently con-
demned, and yet the one dish most
universally liked-at least by Amer
leans. Sill, Notwithstanding the bad
reputation pie enjoys, it is whole
some dish If properly made.
In making it the average housewife
rolls out heavy, sodden crust, and
then spreads 1t in n thick layer over
the bottom and sides of pie plate,
She forgets to rub this crust with the
white of egg and Immediately puts in
the filling of custard, fruit or mince
meat whose juices will later soak into
the crust, making it still more sodden,
She then covers the pie, perhaps, with
another layer of this thick pastry and
puts it in an oven that is not hot
enough. The oven should be so hot
that the pastry will brown before the
butter in it has barely chance to
melt. The crust will then be crisp.
Another reason why pies are so uni
versally disapproyed is that they are
nearly always made with lard, or half
lard and half butter. Lard should
never be used in Il pie or, in fact, in
any dish. An eminent physiologist In
a leading university says that lard is
the bane of American cookery and Is fit
for no stomach except pigs" A tiny
bit Of lard in batch of bread may be
excusable, but even then butter is bet
ter.
All pie crust, of course, should be Of
wafer-llke thlnness. Not only are prop
erly made crusts harmless, but some
popular Filings are exceedingly whole
some. What, for instance, could be
better than q custard or a pumpkin
filling? The latter is, as rule, only
custard rich In eggs, with an addi-
ton Of pumpkin and few spices,
which are aids to digestion.
Without doubt all pies should be
eaten in moderate portions, especially
by delicate persons, but this rule ap-
plies TO any dish. Even cream Is not
good for persons under certain condi,
tlons, yet no one but crank would
deny It to a person in good health
Many food faddists expect healthy
people to live daily on an invalid's diet
There are five rules to observe in the
making of a perfect pie. First, rut
the undercrust with the white Of an
egg before putting in the filling to pre-
vent II from soaking into the pastry
second, bake it in the hottest Of ovens
third. place it in the lower half Of the
oven at first against the bottom, later
removing 1t to the upper shelf; fourth
always place crust in the refrigerator
to become thoroughly chilled and hart
before filling and baking it; fifth
pound the pastry well until 1t is filled
with air spaces.
Volumes could be written on the cor
rect treatment of pastry. Any of thu
recipes in standard cookbooks will do
however, IL a few details are carried
out.
A marble board is an ideal arrange
ment for rolling pastry. A curren
household magazine suggests that th'
hideous marble tops Of old fashioned
tables might be fitted up for this pur
pose.
Smooth, even pie crust Is an abomina
ton, and yet many housekeepers thinl
that Is the proper way to have it, ant
sometimes they will even be heard t
complain when by accident their pi
crust is rough and almost breaking
into wafer-like flakes. This fakines
Is, however, the proper condition o
pastry.
Pies as q rule are better adapted t
winter than summer diet, becaus
of the butter, which makes them to
rich for warm weather fare. Frui
pies. however, are good at all seasons
and there are few things more attraC
tive than huckleberry and other frul
pies even in the hottest dog days. Ther
are also many good cold meat pie
which are welcome at picnics. Whe
preparing a chicken or meat pie 1t
always better to add little bakin
powder to the regular rule for ordinar
pie crust.
Add one cup Of butter to every tw
cups of -four Dastry -four. Then cho
together In a wooden bowl, with a
} ordinary old fashioned chopplng knif'
| until the mixture is broken into sma
bits the size of peas. Add half a Gu
= Of ice water. Mix with knife, the
beat and turn and beat and turn unit
the whole Is smooth, but full Of lgh
ness. This pounding and turning
' better II done upon a marble board
a cool storeroom or cellar Never touc
the pastry with spoon or the ham
but with knife; then put 1t where
3 will become ice cold and hard befol
rolling 1t out.
r There are several variations to tn
7 rule which can do no harm. If baki1
0 powder Is wanted, add a teaspoonf
r to this amount Of -four and butter.
uN,iI