The Birmingham age-herald., 1906-02-09

out of fashion, remains prime favorite' the truth being that the fashion is a most becoming one and that there are number less different models of the one style wide pleats, narrow pleats side pleats, box pleats. are each and all popular.
 A good tailor or dressmaker-for no longer now is it obligatory to have tailor make a severe cloth skirt-realizes that skirts must be fitted and hung just as carefully as must the waist be fitted and draped, and this is the secret of why most of the fashionable women of today look so well in their short skirts. The width around the foot of the smart skirt today is still exaggerated and at the same time the skirt fits closely over the hips, any fitness of the pleats being cut away when 1t is not needed.
 The circular skirt Is becoming more and more fashionable all the time, both for the short and the long styles, and the many gored one is also among the new models. This last always has strapped seams, but no other trimming. while in the circular style the trimming may con sist only of hem turned up on the right side, of a succession of bias folds or rows of braid. It depends upon the use for which the skirt Is destined If for tramp ing over fields and for wearing only in bad weather the less trimming the bet ter, for there is always the possibility to be feared that braid and folds will when wet shrink differently from the material. All mixed effects in tweeds and cheviots If. tna business suits are excellent for this pur- pose, while a lighter weight fabric, but in the same patterns, is both useful and effective. Serges, cheviots and camePs hair mixtures in plain effects, and the materials so treated as to be waterproof are always useful and make I'D well in the severely plain models. The only trim ming consists of stitching and bone but tons.
 Ihen there are great many varieties or outside garments loose coats, capes and cloaks, absolutely impervious to rain O" snow, that can be worn over any gown. These are delightfully."- smart and this sea- son decidedly original as to their style. In spite of their being cut on quite masculine lines and made of shaggy, rough mate rial as a rule they are quite distinctly feminine In general appearance. All shades of gray and brown are used and a few in plain colors. The cape with a fitted front larger than the cape itself Ia distinctly foreign in treatment but smart and becoming The loose half length and long coats on the box order are always in fashion, and whether lined with fur or heavy wool mixture are most practical for winter weather, while for motoring they are fashionable all the year.
 There are the big, half fitted coats of lighter weight material. The cravenette garments, that arc now so much smarter than ever are made fitting In the back and with loose double breasted fronts The driving coat, with It's two or three shoulder capes, is also worn as a wet weather wrap, but it Is a trifie too heavy and cumbersome for real comfort, as when going about in bad weather wom- an does not want to be bothered with too heavy garments, and if extra warmth is desired it is far better to get it in the Innings than in the material itself.
 There is a continue discussion that goes on season after season, year after year, as to whether it is better to wear a long or a short coat in wet weather The allen veloping rain coat or ulster would seem to the mind of the lay reader to be the more practical garment, for certainly it must needs absolutely protect any gown worn underneath it. But 1t is urged on the contrary side of the question that long coat worn over a heavy gown is most uncomfortable. too heavy and too warm, and that no woman wishes to go out in the rain clad in light gown, even if 1t be covered with a big coat. Consequently there are advocates for the short skirt with coat to match made of material that is impervious to wet and can be made impervious to cold as well. So clad, a woman-ths Is the other side of the ques- tion-may feel she is most appropriately and smartly gowned. especially if the right sort of hat, boots and gloves be worn, for it is every whit as important that such details be correctly carried out as if it were a costume for reception.