The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1906-03-11
.R|CHMONDERs ON
THE GRAND TOUR.
Well-Known Merchant Tells Of
Experiences On Meditcrran-
ian Trip.
THE ISLAND OF MADEIRA
Graphic Sketches of Enchanting
Scenes ola Land of Plant and
Flowers and Beggars.
THE ISLAND OF MADEIRA
fyyrltten for The Tlmes.Dispatch.)

written for The -Dispntch)
FUNCfIAL, MADERfA. February H.
Thinking that some of your readers
might like to hear from our party OH
the Mediterranean trip. v. Perlcy, OF
Charlottesville, va; Dr. II. II. Fortune,
OF Damascus. va: j. E. Parkinson,
OF Danviile, Va; Harry r. Moore and
the writer, OF Richmond, Wave beg to
state that SO far VIC have had Il very
pleasant trip.
On the morning Of q. the 10th, on going ping on y,
horizon what seemed dark and heavy
cloud, but on nearer approach there
doomed up n massive rock rising from
the very depths OF old oceans bed, pro-
jecting boldly into the circnmambient
waters.
At n distance It looked like n rugged
and barren waste. but upon closer In
spect!on It proved to be the beautiful
Island Of MADEIRA. which has been de de-
towering In a glistening haze like some
realm OF enchantment." on still nearer
approach our ship was surrounded by
numerous native boats laden with willow
filed with. diving boys, stripped to the
waist who amused the passengers
crowded on deck by leaping over the
boat as soon as a coin Is cast into the
water.
INFLATED VALUES.
Previous to the invasion of this island
by the American tourist n penny was n
sufficient Involvement tn make them go
overheard. but now II requires the SHIN
mer OF silver or the CLINT of gold to make
them leap into the chilling waters of the
ocean
There Is tradition that the anc1ents
regarded this shadowy mass of rocks in
the west as the mouth OF he'll and
avoided 1t accordingly hence 1t was UNI
inhabited for many years after the lands
had been occupied.
The Madertas were known 10 the no
mans. Phing refers to them as the
purple Islands, II was settled By Por-
tuguese In 14is and still remains under
her government. MADEIRA has very
truthfully been described as "a neglected
paradise" for it's climatic conditions. it's
rich soil and balmy breezes renders It
capable of being converted into second
Garden of Eden.
Inbfanua, In fruit and cane 1t is unsur-
passed :. Plants and vegetation flourish in
Oriental exuberance, and abundance.
We sailed along Its coast for about
twenty-five miles and We never witnessed
a more lovely panaroma than Its grad
| ualIy unfolding beauties Lofty noun
tains. snow-capped n the background.
| magnificent precipices overlooking the
sea- some over two thousand feet high.
The highest peak on the island is over
six thousand feet The brilliant verdue
inviting appearance. Coasting along the
shores the rugged mountains and yawn-
ing ravines in the, distance look like
mighty te sfTy S sFd F haSe ba1.lemen's
F'unchal. the chief city, was our land
ing place. It hasa population OF about
5000 and. strange To say. besides the con-
sui. only two American residents. We
Cor ,i,'caros...' as they are called by the
nat!vesJ which carry three or four per-
sons and go at rate OF about three
miles an hour. The teamsters go OH foot
and prod the patient OK with n sharp
pointed stick. whilst his assistant occa-
sIonally places a cloth, saturated with
oil. under the runners to make them run
smoothly, which renders the rocks SO
slick that walking Is very difficult
After the teamster handles the CLOTH
as above indicated. he uses the bullock's
tail as towel. A ride in this unique
vehicle Is both pleasant and picturesque
As@drive in one down Franklin street
would create quite sensation in Rich
nTond. 1t would stand no show besides
an automobile.
Another method of locomotion is the
"rede,'.' or hammock, carried by two
me. on their shoulders. Very few horses
or carriages are seen: the ascents and
declivites are so acute 1t Is dangerous to
use them. How they manage when a
fire breaks out is a conundrum we can
not solve. ,A
A ride to the top of Mount Carmel on
the incline railway, opens beautiful
view OF the ocean. which lies before you
like sheet of molten silver shimmering
In the sunshine and dotted with many
sails
AS you ascend you pass orange and
lemon. groves; sugar cane and banana
nheSaf Gloom ana Ear psnnF ads s
ed with lovely and fragrant flowers.
roses in rich profusion. honeysuckle
hellotropes. fuchias-and this in mid
winter.
most picturesque landscape OF varia-
gated scenery. past deep gorges and
gaping prccipices. tcrraced mountain
sides and cultivated slopes. all bathed In
mountain on toboggan. distance OF
two miles in about, ten minutes. 1t is
easy going down. but when one sees the
poor devils with their toboggans on their
breath, persplr,tion pouring down their
faces, lit reminds one of Virgil when he
says. 'Faclis descensus averni. sed non
LAND OF BEGGARs.
This is a land of beggars. The children
can speak but a few words In English
and their shibboleth is Give me q
penny. Merely this and nothing more"
place of the Now lay mo down to
sleep, ~ taught by the American mother.
They are the fnost flsistent and persis-
tent set we have ever struck up with:
worse than flies and more annoying than
icas.
Through the center OF the town runs an
immense ravine, which is public lava
tory and laundry. upon whose ragged
sides the washed linen of the inhabitants
appears, held down with small stones:
but not wlthstanding we know of no more
delightful place for summer vacation
s''ti' $50 j. sTAUNToN MOORE.
CAROLINA FARMS.