Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-03
MANDARIN COATS.
Fashionable for Theater and Opera
Wear

Chinese mandarin coats We're first worn
as evening wraps in this country about two
years ago, and ever since then their popu-
larity has been steadily increasing Owing
to the handsome embroidery these coats
cannot well become ordinary. nor can they
be successfully initiated in machine work
The Chinese and japanese seem to under
stand effective color combination better
than any other nationality, and they seem
to obtain certain tones which with us only
make violently glaring contrasts that are
anything but attractive.
In the present craze for the antique even
the mandarin coat must be just as old as
possible. and certainly time does seem to
soften most charmingly the brilliant colds.
puppies, reds. blues and greens In which
the oriental makes ever takes delight. There
is nothing faded about the dull finish that
the silks and satins acquire with the wear
of half century. the color effect being only
enhanced.
The majority of the mandarin coats are
Of satin. almost completely covered with
rich oriental embroidery, the chrysanthe-
mum pattern being the one most frequently
seen. The flowers there are worked I'm
varied colors, often having huge gold CEN
tiers, and their shaded green stems and
leaves generally being in just the right note
of color.
Naturally the old coats have to be refined.
for even IL the thin China silk interlining
is not worn or soiled 1t never seems suf-
fciently handsome for the embroidered
satin coat. heavy satin of some dull
antique coloring is best, the shade accord
ing as nearly as possible with some one
part of the embroidery. If there is a sug-
gestion of deep pink or old rose in the flow
ers then this shade is an excellent one TO
be carried out in the lining. There are GER
tain shades of dull blue that are effective
and not too bright but perhaps the best
tones of all are found among the soft yell
lows and dull ivory white For WIN
ter warm interlining must be added if the
garment is desired for an opera or theater
cloak.
The very shape of the mandarin coat
makes it peculiarly well fitted for a loose
evening wrap The sleeves are a fashion
able shape. and while it is loose at the neck
1T be made to fasten up well at the
throat or else a soft feather or lace scarf
had in all the different sizes. and naturally
the cost depends largely upon the size. All
lengths are worn, and as every one seems
to like one special length of evening wrap
the length that's generally selected in the
ordinary theater cloak had best be selected
OF course the price is determined largely by
the amount of embroidery and the quality
of the satin Small coats are to be had
sometimes for about $50, and from there the
price ranges up almost indefinitely.
All mandarin cloaks are not real antiques
by any means, and lately, since they have
become so fashionable. the very newest
ones are imported. and 1t is said that many
are made in this country. BY many the
new coats are preferred, and naturally
there are advantages in that the newer ones
viii give better wear, but they are rarely
made of as good materials as were once
employed. as is shown by the way in which
the mandarins that are nearly a century
old are still in remarkable state of pres
ervation.
A mandarin or kimono wrap is too con-
spicuous to be worn constantly, but for a
dinner cloak or for a wrap to wear at the
play opera 1t would be hard to find any
thing more effective, and what is more. no
matter what the coloring is it viii be al
most certain to tone in with the most deli
cate brilliant dress, while with black
gown this coat will make a handsome the
atcr costume.