New-York tribune., 1906-06-24
No .SIovisb Apine of Paris Modes.
Display Individuality in Dress-The New
Theatre Much Discussed.

waist Under the arms the bretelles were con-
nected by tucked pieces OF green muslin, reliev-
ing the childish suggestion OF most gowns of this
sort. The bretelles part Of the gown was of
silk. self embroidered. and the sides fell in stole
fashion at the bust separating a tri1e from the
rest Of the gown. and edged with fringe. There
were some handsome gowns in rather sombre
colors as for instance, voile Of stone gray over
white and a couple OF examples of brown NOUS
seline de sole made up in Empire fashion.
The discussion of the theatre bonnet which
was started by the action OF the Countess Gref-
fuhle some weeks ago seems to continue.
Whether women shall wear hats not at the
theatre in Paris has long been favorite subject
with masculine writers in the press; though up
to now women have decided that they prefer TO
wear the same style OF toilet 10 the theatre
they DO TO the restaurant-an elegant high
neck gown with a dressy hat Now that the
Countess Greffuhle has started new move
ment in favor of the theatre bonnet and that
leading mOdistes have adopted her suggestion.
a hat may soon become denode for the theatre.
However, it is doubtful if much will be gained
for the spectator by this change in fashion,
for the theatre bonnet, as il now stands, is
wonderfully high and perched elaborate
a head dress that a Gainsborough might less
ehtrecnveiy eh y ,S shut out the view Nevertheless
ion for the moment, and the only alternative is
some form Of head dress which should appro-
prlately accompany low neck gown.
THEATRE HATS
It has always been the rule at the Theatre
Francais that hat shall be worn in the or
chestra chairs. and IL is now rurnored that this
rule is TO be extended to the first balcony as
well. French women simply will not wesr
high neck gown without a hat outside Of their
own homes. They regard it an impossible
and inartistic combination. II hats are not
worn at the theatre the only solution of the ques-
ton is that women shall come in gowns more
or less decollete, as they do IN London. And
UP 10 the moment French women have pre-
Ierreo NOT 10 wear low neck gowns at the theatre
or restaurant But Paris has adopted so many
customs from London that il will not be sur
prlsing TO see one more in general use here.
mere are some smart race gowns selected at
random: A gown Of mouse color silk voile hang
ing IN Empire folds is partly covered by long
redingote of cloth in the shade. This
curves IN slightly at the waistline that the
lines are not rigidly Empire The cloth Is elab-
bolero and the garment closes on the chest with
sloplng sides connected by three passementerie
ornaments The undergown is cut three times
by bands OF open work paSsementerie. Another
Yoile gown is in champagne yellow a fitted
slip OF shot taffeta IN lavender and purple. 1t
is bretele Empire, and the upper part is of
lace the same color as the voile. Deep panels
OF lace are inserted in the skirt, and edged and
ornaInented with little straps and buttons Of the
changeable silk
Any number of white gowns are seen at the
races but few Of lingerie except those covered
or partly covered by long silk coats One gown
Of white silk toile end English embroidery was
pretty in points of detail The skirt was trimmed
with half inch tucks between waving pattern
done with broad band of English embroidery
edged with Cluny and finished with two deep
embroidered hounces. The bodice laid in