davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26

contend that the embroidered Jackets
in linen or muslin or lace are very
smart in the colored linens, and now
that laundering and cleaning is such a
serious question it is certainly mat
ter of moment to have an embroidered
jacket or coat that can be worn with
the plain skirts, while the embroidered
and lace separate jackets make SIM
pie muslin gown look very smart and
trim.
These are in the shape of boleros or
Elton coats-Etons, SO far as they are
short in back and long in front, and
do not come to the waist line in the
back and are made with the cape
sleeve. These can be bought ready
made and at a price less than half that
asked for them six months ago,
and they are worn not only over the
muslin and linen gowns, but also over
taffeta silk or India silk, and look ex-
tremely well. They are, of course.
ur1ined, for if lining We're put in it
would make them heavy and clumsy,
but all these. Jackets, are more or less
il the nature of trimmings to the
gowns, and do not afford any great
warmth, whereas the ordinary separate
jacket or wrap really does possess ad-
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26
Wood Carpets Must Look Old

much more to be regretted than any
baroness and plainness, whether of
wall, floor or what not.
In wood carpets showing designs
white mahogany is frequently used
with oak when a light effect is desired.
The white mahogany is not so hard as
the oak, however and is rarely used
alone for carpeting. Holly wood is also
very much used with the oak for max
Ing designed carpets. 1t is pure white
when properly treated, but this treat
ment requires the greatest skill and
time. 1t is frequently, therefore, seen
a little off color, in a grayish or cream
tint It is quite as pretty that way and
only the experts know that it doesn't
count for as good work as 1t should.
Holly is never used for whole floors, as
it is very expensive.
To make the dark combinations ma
hogany and cherry strips are used with
the oak. Walnut floors, once so popu-
lar, are now rarely used, as the walnut
wood has become rarer than mahogany.
Walnut is used, however, for bordering
and strips.
The oak floors are in several shades.
The pure oak is the natural color treat
ed only with oil. There is also the "old
English oak" new oak, of course,
which has been treated in an attempt
to make it look like venerable English
oak. The real old oak color is. how
ever. impossible of attainment by arti-
fetal means. The color obtained is
either too golden brown or too heavy
and dark a shade. There is something
satisfactorily rich and at the same time
quiet and harmonious about the real old
oak which has so far eluded all the ef-
forts at imitation. Occasionally a deal
er obtains a piece of old oak, and then
every inch of it is made use of. The
prices asked of rich customers for car
peting, doors or wainscoting made
from 1t are simply fabulous.
Besides this artificial darkening and
enrichment of the oak to make it re-
semble the old English wood there is a
process now in vogue for dulling the
pure light oak floors so as to do away
with the appearance of recent con-
struction. When this process is used a
floor which would otherwise be quite
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26
Ouaint Jlecvelc.Ss Jacket

match individual gowns, but can be
worn with any white gown, or if made
of black can be worn at any time.
There are also certain shades in the
changeable taffeta that are effective
with all light colored gowns and look
well also with black. The wearing of
a shawl or scarf in olden days was con-
sidered mark of good breeding and
girls were taught how to wear them,
and now that the fashion has come in
again it is amusing to notice how few
women there are who can wear them
gracefully; but then this is just a ques-
tion of time, and as these silk scarfs
are bound to be copied this winter in
fur it is just as well the lesson be
learned as soon as possible. Separate
wraps and coats of all kinds are
great addition to a complete wardrobe
and this year fashion has ordained that
there should be a great variety, but in
design and in color as well as in mate
riak There are the silk coats already
described, and then must needs be men
tened the lace and embroidered coats
and Jackets, which go so far toward
making the simplest gowns look very
smart and attractive. Many women
who, for instance. prefer plain skirts
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26

MONG wood carpetings those
N known as the pure oak are at
N present considered most desira-
bic, although there is great lati-
tude Of choice even among persons in
clined 70 follow the fashions in house
furnishings. The oak carpetings are
especially popular in the strip or block
designs. A herringbone pattern is
shown at the best shop as very fash
iouable, but its lines would appear to
be a little too much inclined to tax the
eve Perhaps the block pattern is as
attractive as any. Certainly 1T fur
uishes a most desirable background for
rugs, and when rugs are not used It
furnishes better than the strip Of her
ringbone patterns.
Some firms Of house decorators have
sought to create feeling against
borders. declaring them to be inartistic.
Bur these are chiefly the firms who are
going in for the new art movement In
house furnishing, a movement not al
avs attended with the best results in
ordinary houses, where the aim is TO
create comfortable and attractive in
teriors rather than to conform pain
fully to rigid artistic ideals. OF course,
there are many rooms where borders
are not desirable, very small rooms or
tihge in which certain rugs having pat
tens not harmonious with borders are
Ia be used There are, in fact, many
rugs with which borders are undesira-
bic. But again there are rooms Wnlcn
sre greatly improved by borders Good
Taste must determine whether or not q
border is to be used in each particular
spsrtment. The anti-borderites have,
however, this much on their side-that
the use OF a border in an apartment
which should have a plain floor is much
mere 10 be oeplored than the absence
az a border in any apartment could be.
in iother words, as In the case Of all
decorations, the absence of ornamental
ton may constitute a lack, but cannot
constitute an obtrusion-which is so
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26
Loose Coat Of hffeta end Lace

IT LTHOUGH it is supposed to be
more fashionable at the moment
n to have skirts and waists of the
same material rather than to
have coats and skirts with separate
waists, yet there never was a time
when. so much attention was paid to
separate coats and Jackets OF all shapes
and sizes, and this without reference to
the attractive coat and skirt costumes
without which no woman can possibly
get along and be comfortable
The smartest of summer gowns have
all separate coats or wraps that seem
10 Sive a finish to them that summer
gcwhs have always lacked hitherto.
and the taffeta coat or wrap is one Of
the luxuries of the season. They are
made in a great variety of designs and
look even more like capes than coats.
They are not bright in color and some
times have wide belts and sashes to
match. They have no sleeves or they
have wide flowing sleeves that reach
the elbow. AS a rule they are trimmed
with the same material and without
any lace, and at the same time there
are the most adorable little ones that
have insertion and medallions of lace
n have quite as much lace as material
itself
Then there are the coats intended to
be worn over the most elaborate gowns
or silk, net or Of lace. When these are
worn the gown itself is trimmed with
the folds Of taffeta and the coats are
also Of taffeta Of the same shade. These
are rather more conventional in style
and are often rather on the plan of the
cloth yelling or linen coats that are
rather loose fitting and at the same
time are so cut as to quite indicate the
lines Of the figure. They are very sim
pie and are trimmed with braiding or
with fine plaitings of lace. A most
cberrine gown that is made of polka
dotted pink net or chiffon or silk mus
LIZ. &c trimmed with two bands Of
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26

yellow and bright is made to look dim
and gray. Not much, If any, polish is
used. While the color attained is not
so particularly desirable at first glance
it has the advantage of harmonizing
with other fittings much more gener-
ally than does the bright new oak floor
Dark mahogany is not used for floors
entirely, but carpetings are made up of
the dark and light mahogany in block
patterns. Oddly enough, when one con-
siders the richness of its coloring, ma
hogany throughout does not make a
very beautiful floor. Teakwood is used
by the dealers with other woods for
carpetings and makes very attractive
floor. For bedrooms and the upper part
of the house generally hard yellow pine
is much used.
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26

TX fascinating to make, and for
those having a large circle of
acquaintances a gift for one
newly arrived mortal or another is
usually in order. Now it is almost
obligatory that gifts for young Infants
from feminine friends of it's parents
should be charming hand made addi-
tions to its wardrobe, cradle furnish
ings or bassinet outfit. The gifts Of
silver and ivory are more or less re-
served for masculine admirers of the
infant wonder.
number of wraps for use indoors
or protection from draughts are
always necessary. Among them should
be long wrappers, short sacques and
two or thre kimonos. The long wrap
pers, heavier than the kimonos, are
frequently quilted. Kimonos, both
short and long, are needed 1t is now
quite a fad to make the short ones
with the sleeve pieces open, so that
they may tie under the arms, as shown
in one of the illustrations.
Mummy cloth wrappers are used
without other trimming than a couple
of rows Of narrow and fine Valen-
ciennes edging all around. In pink
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26

chiffon gowns. They have not yet been
made public In sufficient numbers to-
tell whether the style would be popu-
lar or not, but IN the meantime the
woman who is possessed of one may
consider herself decidedly clever IN be-
ing rather ahead of the times. In light
taffeta silk or in black silk, with very
handsome embroidery on collar and
cuffs and with lace ruf11es, they are
certainly extremely smart and effec-
tive, and look especially well with the
new hats trimmed with the long
plumes, and which also are on the
picturesque order.
Norfolk Coats III Style.
The medium length and long silk
coats that are now seen are not so
smart as they were. The long motor
coats in silk seem rather to have put
them to one side and they lack the
approval OF popular fancy. However.
they are In style. and In some instances.
are attractive. The elderly woman re-
joices in them, and in black taffeta orl
heavy black silk for elderly women
they are very attractive. In the mean
time the Smarter coats are OF cloth
in light colors and on the simple lines
that have been described, and there Isl
also a most charming fashion of a long
cape, or rather medium length cape.
the sleeves Of which are in shawl
shape, that is used as a wrap on all
occasions and that IS tremendously
popular. It Is rather interesting to
notice that all the new gowns that
are being made up now for travelling
and for general hard wear are made
in the Norfolk style. so that it would
seem as though the Eton coat. that has
been so extremely popular. would not
be revived again this winter. These.
however can be used as SeDarate coats
which the Eton could not be, so that
may be one reason that for the moment
they are more IN demand than the
other.
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26

fits close to the figure, but if any
longer, especially if below the waist, it
must needs be loose.
Fanciful Silk Wraps.
1t is difficult to describe4the scrt of
silk wraps that combines jacket and
cape. 1t is really on the lines of the
old-fashioned cape. with long ends
crossed in front and then at the back
falling like a long sash to the hem of
the skirt. These are made in all colors;.
the newest are in changeable silk The
newest of all are the bright scarfs of
taffeta with rosettes at the back, which
are intended to be worn like the old
fashioned scarf and tied in front with
the ends hanging to the end of the
skirt. These are made of changeable
taffeta or of black and have no trim
ming at either side, but across the ends
are ruchings or pufiings of taffeta with
a finish of a,narrow ruff1e.
The smartest of these are, as has
been said, quite plain and without any
trimming save the taffeta, but already
the style has been improved upon 90
and is trimmed with lace. both in bands
of insertion and, in ruffies. These
scarfs, like the wraps, are supposed to
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26
Embroidered Jackets.

The embroidered and braided Jackets
are works of art and there would seem
to be no limit to the amount of en-
broidery that is put on them or to the
price asked for them. Fortunately, for
once there would seem to be some rea-
sor for the cost, as the work is so
elaborate and so beautifully done A
yelling gown of dark blue would in
this be extremely simple were it not
for the elaborate little jacket worn
with it. The skirt is in plaits Around
the hem are two rows of silk soutache
braid and one wider band of braid, but
the little jacket is entirely covered
with the braiding and is a most attrac-
tive little affair, the sleeves hanging
loose like capes that reach to the
body of the jacket are covered with the
braiding, not sewed as ii were, so that
it stands UP and looks richer in conse-
qUence.
The veilings and pongee gowns were
the first to be made with these sepa
rate jackets, and be it understood the
gowns are complete in themselves
without the jackets. but made in either
princess effect, with the corselet skirt
or with the two piece effect of skirt
and waist. The jacket was loose, yet
was an exact counterpart of the waist.
over which 1t was worn and fitted tight
This year an effort is made to have
it seem loose, while in reality It, as
has been said, indicates the lines Of the
figure. When il is a short bolero 1t
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26
SOME DAINTY INDOOR w

employed should be narrow and of
dainty rather than snowy patterns.
valencfennes, torchon, guipure and
baby Irish are all used on the silk
wrappers and kimonos. They should.
however, be applied sparingly ii the
best effect is to be produced.
The guipure or baby Irish insertion
may be used in a single band for a
border all around the garment. The
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26

lighter laces, If very narrow, may be
used in entredeux, several rows being
employed, or they may be used as
edging only. All the silk wraps seem
to look best in white throughout.
When color is desired it is best
to use it as lining under the silk in
flannel or cloth rather than in the
silk itself. 1t then may be tufted
through on the silk with baby ribbon
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26

they are especially pretty. They are
tied with white wash ribbons. Wrap
pers, kimonos and sacques of China or
Japanese wash silk are made all in
white. lined with thin flannel or unlined
and trimmed with Valenciennes. The
embroidery is not SO effective in these
as it is on the flannel, unless embroid-
cry of a quality too heavy for chill
dren's clothes is used. All the lace
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26

tsffeta. The waist is a mixture OF lace
and net and taffeta, and the short little
coat is entirely of the taffeta with
plaitings just inside the coat that are
made of the lace. 1t is extremely
dainty, and although the original
model was in pale pink it has been
copied in white and black as well as
in other dark colors, and always with
satisfactory results.
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26

ABIES' clothes are always most
fascinating to make, and for
those having large circle of
acquaintance a gift for one
The San Francisco call., 1906-08-26

fits close to the figure, but If any
longer, especially if below the waist, it
must needs be loose.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1906-05-01

All my trust on Thee is stayed, all my
help from Thee l bring.
Cover my defeuseless head with the shad-
ow of thy wing.
Sunday, for the first time in nearly
200 years, the church bells did not call
the people to worship. Most of the
churches had been converted into rub.
bish heaps by earthquake and fire. The
few still standing were flied with
homeless, sick and injured. Rut there
were religious services services in the
parks and open spaces where the home,
less We're camping in tents and under
services of thankfulneSS that 50
many were saved where so many were
in peril and of gratitude for the gener-
osity of a nation which responded SO
nobly and so promptly to avert fam
inc.
No better description can be given to
the once beautiful city than that of a
vast ash heap. Desolatioa AND ruin
greet the eye from every direction,
viewing the scene from the center of
the business district. Golden Gate
Park and the Preside are great camps
I'm which over 100000 men, women and
children are patiently waiting until
they can say they have homes of their
own. They are living under martial
rule with an accomplishing resigna-
ton. enduring hardships which they
never dreamed of, yet without a muir.
MIR
All day the sight is presented of
thousands standing In line before the
food supply depots, waiting for their
daily allotment of rationS The man
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1906-05-01

plete, and the material upon which to
base identification in the future is woe
fully lacking.
In the district south of Market
street was the Chinese quarter, and
the cheap lodging houses, small hotels,
boarding houses and tiIe rendezvous for
sporting men and the fiotsam and Jet
sam of humanity. 1t is the belief that
few of the inmates of these buildings
had the slightest opportunity to escape
With their lives. Many of the struc-
lures were frail or old or poorly built
and at the first seismic disturbance
when the ground rolled up in pillows,
these wood shells were tossed and
wrenched into Snlinters. and most, if
not all. of the 9oeHpants were buried
in the debris. In Chinatown the fatali-
ties must have been heavy In little
while after the earthquake officers, DO
lice and military, discovered charred
remains. and for sanitary reasons in
tered them along the water front. Of
course, no official report concerning
such hasty buralS has come in.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1906-05-01
SENATORIAL Corruptlon.

Ominous stories are said by New
York newspaper to be afioat in the
Senate, that a clique of big Senators,
who will know what the final vote OH
the railroad rate bill will be, are to
have "a good thing" in the stock mar
ket. 1t can be done in a very effec-
tive way by enough Republicans stand
ing together either against or for the
proposed legislation. If this is true
these Republican Senator's will find
they are playing with fire. for the
voters are in no mood to be trifled with.
TO make sure of a square deal in the
future the greatest care must be exer-
cised in electing members of the State
Legislatures, in those States where
Senators are to be elected. BY voting
for tried and true Democrats, who are
pledged to vote for candidate for
Senator who is not stock gambler or
in league with corrupt corporations and
whose character makes it certain that
such combinations will be impossible
if the voters elect a Democratic ma.
iority
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1906-05-01

Amongst the witnesses before the
committee of the House on merchant
marine and fisheries were several who
claimed to be members of organized
labor These witnesses were evidently
brought forward, and probably paid to
appear, by those interests who are try
ing to get a favorable report from the
committee on the ship-subsidy bill, for
they gave evidence in favor of the
measure But now comes President
Gompers of the American Federation
of Labor and declares that these wit
nesses did not represent any labor
organization He opposed the bill as
it required American lahsl 20 be con-
scripted into the navy in order to get
employment
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1906-05-01

In the reckoning up of the extent of
the disaster conservative minds hest
tated. The nearest approach to the ag-
gregate destruction of life and property
is estimated as follows: Number of
lives lost. $500; property destroyed
S400,o00,000. The boundaries of the
fire-swept district include at least three
fourths of the city's area.
Ruin of Business Complete.
Downtown wholesale and retail dis
tricts are complete ruins, few buildings
in these districts standing. The greater
part of the residence section also is
ruined and the fire swept through sec
tions where homes of Weather class
resided.
Temporary business houses have
been opened at Oakland, across the
bay, and every preparation possible is
being made for reopening business
houses in San Francisco itself As fast
as ruins can be cleared away temporary
structures will replace destroyed bust
ness houses
Just q week after the shock of earth
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1906-05-01

who counted his wealth by thousands
is not above standing elbow to elbow
with the man who was in the humblest
circumstances four days before the dis
aster. The woman who rode in an au-
tomobile and commanded an army of
servants receives her bread after the
poor washerwoman has been supplied,
and SHOWS n2 sign of pride,
Hope Rises Anew.
When the reign of terror was over
in the stricken city, reason returned to
its throne. Public confidence in the fu-
ture of San Francisco-tht belief that
the worst had happened aid that the
day had passed for grieying made
manifest Saturday by a return flow of
refugees who fed from the city while
it was rocking on its foundations and
whitening beneath the flames.
Wausau pilot. [volume] (Wausau, Wis.) 1896-1940, 1906-05-01
CLEARING AWAY RUINS.
Work of Removing the Debris L
Progressing Actively.

Work OF Removing the Debris Is
Progressing Actively.
The lapse Of week from the earth
quake found tens of thousands home
less ana hopeless in san Francisco.
The general condition could be best de
scribed by the term sherman applied
to war. 1t is and repeat. And it
will be that for some time to come,
What is left of the population is still
camped in streets. public squares,
Golden Gate Park. at the Preside and
around Fort Mason.
After all the carnage and the heart
rending tragedies OF the Civil War.
however, when the smoke of battle had
cleared away, reconstruction came
With the ruins still smoldering. with
the dead lying under smoking ruins for
many miles, where half-starved dogs
have been found eating them, San Fran
cisco has passed through the active
stage of the calamity and has entered
on a period of reconstruction. Gangs of
men are working here and there. a dis
patch of Wednesday says. clearing
away the debris preparatory to the
erection of new buildings on the sites
of the old-nrw and better buildings
for the spirit in the air is to make San
Francisco greater and more beautiful
than ever before.
Business rlen of all classes IRE unit
ing in this spirit, and the same senti-
ment is expressed by all. Along Market
street and elsewhere The deep booming
of dynamite is heard at intervals, as
dangerous walls are torn from their
foundations and toppled to the earth,
making room for the new walls that