Wauwatosa news. [volume] (Wauwatosa, Wis.) 1900-1948, 1906-01-27
HOW WE GET STYLES.
AS Americans Visit Paris Professionally
and Deceive the Very
Elect.

All American dressmaker, who comes
to Paris twice Il year FOR new styles, said
in a recent interview: Il sop ut one OF
the hotels where / am sure to find the
newest styles; | spend my days in the
logne, in the Champs Elysees aud on the
Grands Boulevards. and, with the great
est care and critical eye, notebook in
hand. | take the general lines. the style
and the color of every toilet | see passing
by worthy of notice. In the evening | 20
to the theater with my sketch book and
take note of all the dresses in the plays
III which new styles are an attraction. |
never miss a friend who is on her way to
buy gowns and nantes, and there
study the models which pass before me-
and in that way | go back to New York
with all the novelties in my head and in
my sketch book and note book Thus
together with the purchase of a few
models to put on exhibition, | am able to
give my customers all the creations of
Paris
In talking about this matter one of
the great couturiers of the Rue de n
IaiX said: Il wonder when we shall
have common protection from robbers of
styles. such as that American dress
maker. We risk getting nervous prostra-
ton inventlng new styles. spending sleep
less nights to find out something new
for our special paying customers, and
then in an hour to have it taken up by
q woman who has no Scruple about steal
ing possession which, for other novel
ties and inventions, is punisha BILE by the
law, IS: to say the least, very annoying"
We'll, what are you going to do
about it?"
THAT'S the trouble. We can't prevent
IT. 1t is not written on the nose of n
dressmaker that she is one. and your
dressmakers are generally SO chic that
we cannot tell the difference between
one and a Mrs. Astor or Vanderbilt.
There is always something about a
French premiere that betrayS her and
our saleSwomen are on the uui yiye and
do not show anything new when they
detect French dressmaker. Then our
French woman has not the audacity of
the American woman She sees a new
piece OF goods on chair and examines
1t all over. We are willing to sell mod
els to them, but we find no remedy for
their robbery. We would be only too
glad ii American dressmakers would ig-
more our new styles. invent some of
their own, set the fashion ct home. as
they understand it; but they never will.
because they know that no one will ever
wear their creations, and that we shall
always have the pick of the millionaire
women, WHO want Partisan clothes We
simply have to endure an evil which we
cannot remedy"
Ii is not forbidden to me, however. to
tell my readers what | saw in that won
dertul Rue de la PaiX, in the way of
autumn and winter novelties | shall be-
GIN by saying that all the goods. whether
Tor the street or for home use. lend
themselves to draperies, which do not
moe, but dlScreetly reveal the figure
and many Parisiennes, who are loath 70
part with the beautiful. soft, thin goods,
VIII wear them all winter, and on going
out will wrap themselves in long cloaks
amply trimmed with fur. You know
that is style which Sarah Bernahrdt
has adopted for years. Her gowns are
all lacy and thin. and she throws a fur
cloak over them. THAT will suit Amer
leans perfectly, they are so fond of thin
shirtwaists, and can stand thin goods
in their overheated homes" said cou-
turier to me- Will it or will ii not
take? French dressmakers are all in
clined to adopt the Empire style for
winter fashions. | would not vouch for
Partisan women taking to it. They
much prefer the long waist, and the long
skirt which hangs down on all sides.
StIll. there is 2 tendency toward the
short waist, the short skirt and puffed
sleeves about the shoulders. You know
about ten years ago there was an evo-
luton in fashions, the cause of which
was unknown, but all the women took
to the Empire styles, and nothing else
would do for ut least two seasons.
There may be another craze of that
kind this winter. The tendency shows
itself especially in garments and hats.
Long cloakS of supple cloth are made
short wasted, belted in almost under
the arm, with sleeves and folds reach
ing almost to the bottom of the skirt
The shawl pattern will be fashionable IN
the way of loose cloaks; the Garrick
cloak is cut shawl fashion. and hangs
gracefully in points back and down the
front. | recommend them for evening
and carriage wear Sleeves of both
gowns and cloaks will test the inventive
genius of the couturiers. No two pairs
of sleeves are made alike; they are
pufted, tucked. lie in folds, made ornate
with trimming of all kinds, and only
the tailor made, sleeve of the tailor
made jacket will be without lace orna-
mentation of some kind The elbow
sleeve will be worn altogether in the
house with the forearm bare. if a tight
fitting transparent lace sleeve does not
cover it. You cannot pay too much at
tention to the sleeves of your new
gowns and garments.
Now for the hats. Innumerable are
their shapes: there never was time
when n woman was allowed to have the
headgear she pleases. and yet be in fash
ion, as during this year VIII the poke
bonnet however, become popular enough
for a woman not to be eccentric when
she wears oneF | think the tendency
of fashion is to revive the poke bonnet
At any rate, the high round crown. with
broad brimmed hat. covered with feath-
ers. is or exhibition among all first-class
milliners. and they bid fair to come into
vogue. There is also a soft crowned
shaped hat, like beret. with broad
brim and a tuft of feathers, pinned to
one side, a la Henri H.. which is new.
Then. will the 1880 flats ever come
back? | think so; but we must not an
ticipate. for they may be reserved for
the mild season, when there is no wind
to blow them off ones head.
What Governs Price of Dogs.
The price paid for n dog seems to be
sro yarpa1 nor So lnuch nv Tho ~, l,a ~ ~ a,