Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-22

otherwise. Of heavy black satin cloth or
serge. while a stiff helmet hat with scarf
trimming and cocks plume is one very
dashing headpiece. The white linen shirt
for such a get-up is on the mannish order,
even to the stiff linen collar and string tie;
and shoes of black patent leather>have up
pers to match the coat. Lastly coat bou-
quet of violets or roses or gardenias is in
keeping, and when so accoutered the Paris
ienne starts forth she affects the American
stride. The whole get-up, in fact, is sup
posed to be copied from la belle Ameri-
caine, but the chic French woman who at
fects it has none of the strong-minded
look. For doubtless some American maid
of Amazonian and Independent tendencies
started it. But to see the Parsienne at her
best is to see her in the CONNECTIONS for
which her city Is famous. For some rea-
son or other these perfect toilets are gen.
orally of an elaborate nature, something
for the gay places where people go to see
and be seen. Rarely is a simple walking
gown numbered among them, though when
it is it is something indeed to pull the
heart strings with its daintiness. In the
foyerS of the theaters, about the grand
hotels, in the elegant cafes. everywhere
one goes for idle hour, trail gowns of a
marvellous beauty and perfection of detail.
To quote an authority on the subject. "elab-
Grafton, with appearance of chic SIM
plicity, is the order of things; and so de-
ceptive is it all that fashions which seem
the most modest are often the most costly
in detail"
Virgin Simplicity.
Metallic gauzes. shot with silk in shades
of rose, cerise, sky blue, are among the
| materials of these splendors so daintily dis
| guised. These have a rosy, golden radi-
ance. and with a mastery touch Paris
turns them into toilettes almost originally
| simple for satin or taffeta ribbons are the
trimmings used. Again a skirt of some
| splendid lace or other is topped by sort Of
peplum overgarment of pale silk with a
delicate border in embroidery or silver or
gold braid. This overdress. coat, polonaise
or whatever you choose to call 1t is cata-
logued under Greek effects, but anything
more Partisan could not be imagined.
There Is a tendency everywhere to con-
tinue the wide empire belt. which is compile
ment to both bodices and coats; and often
| they oddly adorn long coats. showing only
| at the back and front. An old notion re-
vived for skirts is the two-tiered jupe.
| which is displayed in both street and
evening styles. double falls Of rich lace
often forming them in the last case. Sleeves
| have reached point which all but defes
description. for no two pairs are alike, and
| those in the smarter frocks are veritable
| freaks of millinery. Especially are the
| sleeves Of certain little odd jackets and
| long cape-like wraps charming, for here
| the materials seem only to take a drop
over the shoulders, in some fantastic shape
or other, and under this graceful cap fall
| pillows of lace in prim frills. This cape
| like arrangement for sleeves Is likely to be
a marked feature OF the winter loose
| smart coats of a fantastic nature.
Dressy Hats.
In the headgear which tops this evening
elegance is observed more extravaganza
than ever for IL 1t is the modish thing to
look simple in costume the dressy hat
| must simply swim with luxury. Magnifi-
cent ostrich feathers, long, misty paradise
plumes and immense agrettes contribute to
this look Of opulence. which touches of
gold and silver emphasize. Lace and drawn
net and tulle and a mixture of erin lace
and satin straw shape these first evening
hats. High jam-pot crowns and broad
brims, which may be lifted slightly at the
| left with an under trimming, are also fea-
lures
The accompanying drawings display the
furs, gowns and hats now exploited by
Paris makers. NINA FITCH.