The Birmingham age-herald., 1906-10-14

the boards in Paris, and hence the gowns displayed nightly by leading lights of the stage may we'll be taken as guides to the modes current and to come.
 Jacket bodices are making a strong bid for fayor and since they afford a charm ing chance for the most lavish elaboration the reason for their acceptance Is not Tar to seek nor hard to find. The best Of those present frivolous little basquines that are tackled on at almost any point below the bust, and that flare smartly out from the body Quite as often as not those little basquines are continued in the back and extended Into postilion effects. Where the gown is intended merely for afternoon wear those are left plain, merely being lined with some dainty silk of harmon lzlng tint, with perhaps piping along the edge. But when adapted to frock or formal Intent the postilion back Is cas- caded with psse chiffon, tulline, or lace. and appliques or embroideries of hand work are posed in their centers. Entirely dependent upon the height and carriage or the wearer is the length of the back Of those charming coats or jackets or bodices, or whatever one chooses to call them. They may reach quite to the hem Of the long trained skirt, or they may end at some quarter of yard below the waist line Just whatever will prove most be- coming Is correct.
 In the reaching out after extrayagant elaboration the designer of today makes use of wellnigh everything that may pos sibly be turned to dressy account Ostrich feathers and marabout appear In what might, formerly be considered queer con nections. For example, the decolletage of fluffy frock in white tulline Is defined with band of the palest blue marabout, this brought down in bias strap to end in the deep swathed ceinture of pale-blue satin. Each one Of the four fluffy founces on the skirt disclose a similar border, little spray that stands mp after the order of a hussar plume Is stuck In the coiffure, and the fluttering fan is altogether of pale blue ostrich and marabout combined. while Instead of sleeves there are merely three dropping blue ostrich tips on each shoul- der.
 Fur trimmings are scheduled to appear on both cloth and velvet gowns, and It Is no uncommon thing to run across models for evening wear in which white satin and sables. pale pink and beaver. brown spangles and mink are ceverly entrusted, the heavy fur making the gown, the wearer, the entire mise en scene in which IL Is worn take on an aspect or added luxury and extravagance.
 In the resurrection of the reyer as corsage accessory there opens up field for elaboration that the clever trimmer Is
  ming schemes are possible on those. whether they be used singy or in over tapping sets Embroideries encrustations, lace allovers. insertions. edgings and pip ings all find adequate application on the rever while as for the vest or waistcoat it may be as simply severe, or as elab- orately extravagant as the designer chooses to make 1t.
 Buttons and buckles form another item of expense that cannot well be avoided where tlfe later modes are followed. All sorts of extrayagances are possible here. from t,,'e plain horn button that decorates the tat r-made up to the elaborately cut and &leled disc that appears on the smart yAnner or bridge coat. The artist metal worker-and this is field of de- sign which many women have taken up and found exceedingly proftable-displays the most fetching effects. and where cost is not consideration some beautiful re suits can be achieved in their use on coat or gown. Beaded buttons displaying Ores den designs wrought out in natural color tugs and the tiniest beads are q smart fad of the moment, and they seem equally ap- propriate upon almost any fabric.