The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1906-05-31

Many Tones of Color Useu IN OH0
Costume-Harmony the Keynote Of
the Seasons styles.
Not since the days of wigs and patch
as has there been a season when the
"sn1ar belongings of dress were OF
such paramount Importance as they are
now.
No matter how expensive the frock'
nor how beautiful, its effect is maze or
narred by the accessories which ac-
company it; and, needless to say these
same accessories are not by any means
the smallest items in the expense &C
count.
The fact that just about anything
and everything is more or less IN good
style this year makes it rather more
difficult than otherwise for the woman
of moderate means to chose wisely from
the riotous display of novelties offered
In very department Of the shops.
There is, however, one hard and fast
rule which should impress itself upon
every one of US as a criterion in plan
ming the seasons wardrobe, and that
is that the entire costume, hat, gloves,
shoes hosiery, every retail down to the
minutest, must be in perfect harmony,
violent contrast being tabooed,
This suggestion conscientiously fol-
lowed will preclude the possibility of
any very serious depression from the
correct path while, at the same time
it offers a splendid opportunity for the
display of ingenuity and Individuality
This rage for the monochrome IN
dress has brought out innumerable new
tints and shades for every color ana
made permissible the use of almost as
many different materials in combina-
ton.
Some of the most fecthing creations
are those in which silk, velvet, cloth'
ribbon, and perhaps even chiffon, lace
and mousseline in different shades are
blended cleverly. But there Is the
point! They must be cleyely BLENDED,
else a crazy-quilt effect is produced,
and for that reson the home dress
maker should wisely select some other
style upon which to try her proves
SOME very artistic effects in these
varitoned costumes are seen even
among the ready-made ones, and as in
most cases the. designs are exclusive
thas is, only one or two of a kind, one
is quite safe to invest in ready-nade
of this ordN,
For example, charming mousselfne
of a rich golden brown shade made over
slip Of cream colored silk has the
skirt closely shlrred around the hips,
falling in graceful folds to the foot,
where there are three two-inch tucks,
the lower one covering the hem and
each one bordered with a bias band of
silk a trifle darker than the other. The
same effect is carried out in the point
ed Elton, where, also, butter-colored
lace laid over deep brown velvet, is
used to form triangular-sh empice-
ments. At either side are three large
buttons of dull gold. An unusual but
most effective combination,
With this costume is worn a cream
colored hat Of soft straw, caught up
abruptly at one side with masses of
shaded maine, over which drops two
heavy ostrich plumes of the exact gown
color, held in place by dull gold buck
lie.
The suede ties, the gloves, neck ruche,
and sunshade all are of light brown
with trimmings of a draker shade, thus
giving an airy appearance to the other
wise sombre effect; while the long
chain, the purse and brooch, the comb
and stick pins are of dull gold.
These latter points strongly illustrate
the case in hand-the Importance of the
accessories, since one can easily
imagine that the general effect would
be seriously marred were these latter
trifles of silver or gun metal.
The separate guimpe, the chemisette
and the undersleeves are necessary adj
juncts Of this seasons frocks, and
very satisfactory ones (are to be had
ready made in the exclusive at almost
any price one is willing to pay. For
wear with the inexpensive linens and
muslins there are pretty sets fashioned
out of finely tucked null overlaid with
an applique embroidery, which in spite
of the fact that it is machine made, is
very effective. For the dressy gowns
there are exquisite lace sets, either
in real or imitation, and among these
the Irish crochet has assumed first
rank.
The Orientalists have often given us
some beautiful bits along these lines.
One set noticed at one of their
establishments consisted of a front
piece with stock attached which was
so finished that it might be worn inside
the blouse as a chemisette or outside
as a plastron, and two straight bands
for the sleeves. These were of linen in
natural color, intricately wrought with
dull blues and gold and occasional
touches of black.
The return of the fichu and Spanish
scarf for which the Princess Ena is ac-
countable Is hailed with joy by the
woman who aims at the picturesque
in her dress, but it must be admitted
that the average American women has
not the knack of wearing either Of these
gracefully. The fichu makes her look
dowdy, and the scarf, unless DON
ned for a head covering in the evening,
gives her a stacy appearance.
One fashionable woman is a shining
exception. She manages to adjust the
scarf-she is said to possess two and a
half dozen of them, each of priceless