Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-30

VERY effort is being made to intro
duce the empire styles, and GER
tainly there is no reason, judging
IL from the successful attempts that
so far have been made, to doubt
that eventually they will become generally
popular. There is much to recommend
them, for the lines are so graceful they
afford an opportunity for the use of the
most beautiful materials and there can also
be great individuality of costume; but the
model has many pitfalls for the unwary
and is not one to be generally recommended,
for in the hands of incompetent dress
maker or worn by q woman whose figure is
hopeessly bad there is no fashion more
calculated to make a woman look like a
caricature-in other words. 1t can be glar-
ingly conspicuous, and conspicuous in q bad
style.
In the meantime, however. the leading
dressmakers are turning out day after day
the most charming and fashionable models
in these same empire STYLES. For afternoon
reception gowns or for the evening they are
certainly most attractive, very smart and
extremely becoming. They are made almost
without exception of most expensive mate
rials, and the trimmings are handsomer
even than any that have been seen for
long time, which is saying a good deal,
when it is considered how many superb
embroideries have been used within the last
two or three years since the craze for en-
bro.dery Of all kinds first began.
X X
Rather dashing, good old English word
which expresses a whole lot. are the newest
models. and with much that is original
about them, not only in the gowns them
selves, but in all the accessories thereto.
The scarf and nantes. for instance, in
tended to be worn with the gown are SO
unique in shape and decoration that they
would he fascinating themselves even If
they were not an addition 20 a very smart
costume The old empire lines are carried
out as much possible, and even if
woman be not naturally graceful somehow
1t seems possible to drape these scarfs or
mantlcs in a graceful way. They do not
always have a great deal of warmth about
them, but they have sufficient to serve as
a wrap, and certainly are great addition,
because the lines of the empire gown are
rather hard and stiff. and for the street
would look quite too eccentric and conspic-
uous. as il Were, even If the wearer were
in her own carriage, whereas this light
drapery or additional outer garment gives
finish that is requisite.
The scarfs and nantes are not heavy
weight The long scarfs are made of taffeta.
can be double or single and trimmed with
taffeta itself in ruchings and rutfles across
the ends, with a large rOsette just at the
back, or the ends are embroidered in gold
or silver. They are made also OF cloth or
of any material that will drape well. They
not good in anything like wolfe a
fabric thin enough TO require a lining in
order TO give an appearance. Later on they
will be seen in fur of the most costly de-
scription. well as the most inexpensive
furs, but without exception they are i'm
mensely smart and will be fashionable for
months to come.
The skirts OF these gowns are all very
clingng, the fad OF the moment being APP
parently to outline the figure much as
possible. This is a very dangerous style to
recommend generally, for il has in it the
possibilities OF great vugarity. but, treated
by clever artist and worn by a graceful
figure, the fashion is so attractive that II
is sure to be adopted. Surah rather than
taffeta is chosen for the Innings and in
order that the gown shall hang always
with the folds in place there is shot put In
through the tucks. With a lining that has
an attached ffounce. as have most of the
Innings now where the fiounce is Joined &c
the upper part OF the skirt. there IL a tuck
and this tuck is filled with shot; then around
the foot of the skirt again are placed sho,
at regular intervals. This holds the folds
OF the lining down into place, and of neces-
sity the upper part-that is, the gown itself
follows the same lines without having to loe
held down itself All these are tricks of the
trade that are not generally known, but they
are the details that make for much In
the general appearance of any fashion sc
pronounced as the empire
The real empire gown has a princess lin.
ing with a great flare around the foot, and
as has been said these masses of shot tC
weight it down. The outer part, the gown