The San Francisco call., 1906-10-28

gowned in the autumn, and delights all
the more when she. mas succeeded in
securing her costume some time in ad-
vance.
In spite of the new cloths being so
much lighter in weight and conse-
quently more possiblek to wear under
a coat, there are many women who
prefer a still lighter waist, and then
q fancy silk or satin. chiffon or chiffon
cloth is chosen. By fancy silk or satin
is not meant fiowered or figured de-
sign, but some of the countless new
weaves that are always being brought
forward. Louisine and a novelty silk
or satin called marquisette are both
popular and can be found in shades to
exactly match the cloth; then, with
trimmings of the cloth, the waist seems
quite as though part of the same ma
terial. Chiffon is a delightful material
to wear, and although a pleated chiffon
waist could scarcely be called a now
style ii is again to be seen in many
of the smartest costumes. Chiffon
cloth is another old favorite that ap
pears again, and while chiffon itself is
good wearing material the chiffon
CLOTH Just a little heavier. does not so
soon become tumbled or mussed. 1t is
a becoming fabric also-a point worthy
of consideration, for some most at
tractive materials are not becoming,
Cloth bands, bretelles in the new order
and the high bodice carry the material
of the skirt far enough in the waist
to make it all seem in keeping with
the skirt
Embroidered velvet bands are a
favorite trimming this winter, and
when cloth coat is trimmed with
them the same design is used on the
waist. but with an edge Of the cloth
-,.ct nt4fcf5n tho Wa1Uaf In
order to make the waist seem part Of
the skirt. Braiding on the skirt is
repeated on the waist in the same de-
sign, but in narrower bands-in fact,
every effort is made, as has been said,
to keep all on the same lines.
Lace on waists is so becoming that 1t
is not remarkable the fashion continues
popular All kinds of laces are used,
and often two or three are combined,
the thinner or more transparent for
yoke and stock collar, the heavier for
bolero, or straight bands of trimming.
The heaviest of laces are in great de-
mand and are often embroidered to
make them seem, if possible, more or
nate and expensive, but among the
great variety there are to choose from
it is quite possible for the simplest.
most conservative taste to select what
is desired. Jet beads and beads in all
colors are sewn into lace, giving a
spangled effect. Just a little touch of
this trimming is charming but If too
much is used ii is garish and vulgar.
Lingerie and lace waists to be worn
with coats and skirts are all in the
most elaborate designs, while the hand
work seems to be finer than ever. The
fashionable woman Of today, to whom
expense is no consideration, demands
the finest work Of all kinds. and there
is no end of rivalry over the hand em-
IL 4
aim and effort being to possess some
one that is finer and more expensive
than any one else has. Lace waists
are made over boned and fitted Innings
and look what they are--part of the
cloth 8stume. Most of the newer
fashions have a sleeveless or short
sleeve blouse effect. This necessities a
guimpe with sleeves, and 1t has been
tried and found essential to have this
same guimpe much like separate waist
complete in itself. Entre-deux of fine
hand embroidery and lace, or all lace