davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-12-09
CHING HILLA- WRAP Akr mvFT

what price the gown may have cost.
looks precisely like any other woman
who has chosen the same model, so
that it is not wise to entirely eliminate
the picturesque and individual touch.
At the moment the picturesque enters
largely into most conventionaIized
rendering. An evening gown in pale
blue or white satin. that is on the
picturesque order and yet IS decidedly
smart, looks like an old painting in it's
charmingly graceful lines. The skirt
is pleated at the sides or may be
pleated at the back, is not SO long as
the skirts of most of the modern even
ing gowns, and is very full. The waist
is draped rather than fitted, and sug-
gests rather than defines the bust, al
though the tendency to the high bust
effect is to be noticed. The sleeves
are elbow length and extremely grace
full, softened by rufies of lace, but
otherwise without trimming. There is.
in fact, no trimming on the gown
anywhere, the beautiful quality of the
material and the sheen on it being
considered quite sufficient ornamental
ton.
1t is indeed interesting to note that
there is satin in fascinating variety.
Broad shoulders and small hips are the
best adapted to the artistically pic
turesque styles, for the material can be
draped in long soft folds that fall in
unbroken lines. Cioaks and wraps, for
instance, that fit only across the shout
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-12-09
Valuable Materials

Beautiful materials command high
prices. Expensive trimmings cannot be
bought at small cost unless they are
hopelessly out OF date Rare laces havs
always an Intrinsic value. All OF these
things must be realized before en-
modern outfit. but there never has been
known q time In the history OF dress
when effective materials and equally
effective trimmings could be secured
for so small an outlay. while the mod
els provided TO copy from are endless
In variety
If woman be on the order known.
as picturesque it Is comparatively an
easy thing for her to have q decided
note OF originality in her dress. buc'
she can also have note Of originality
in all she wears II she elects to choose
the rather severe style and has both
her street and house gowns fashioned
after models of that type She can as
chew absolutely all trimmings and
trust to the perfection OF the cut and
fit of her gowns to command attention.
or she may elect to carry out the very
latest ideas and have her gowns efab-l
orately trimmed and fashioned and her
hats loaded down with all kinds OF
ornamentation- whichever style b88t|
suits the individual that style should
she choose and not depart therefrom.|
no matter how she may be urged to-
do so. The woman who looks her best
in plain. simple clothes should never'
be tempted by the many-plumed and
eccent-fcally fashioned skirts and
waists and soft, nuffy effects. She cam
follow the general outlines OF the new-|
est fashions. but must always stamp
upon them the evidences OF her own
personality The identical model OF q
gown can be so changed by trimmings.
and drapery that IL cannot be recog-|
nized except in a vague and general
way. and this Is the method by which
the individual. distinctive and pictur-.
escus note or modern fashion u en-
phasizsd
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-12-09

tape TO hold scissors. are then sewed
inside next to the silk. One end of the
bag 10 straight and the other Is pointed.
Ribbons are attached 20 the pointed
end. and the bag. after all its compart-
ments are filled, is rolled up with the
pointed end out. The ribbons are tied
around the bag. It Is small enough
to carry IN the pocket; Il IL very COM
plete and masculine looking, and every
college boy vino hasn't one IL sure to
be pleased with such q gift.
Bead photograph frames are really
charming bits OF handiwork which
will make pleasant gifts for either
men or women. These are more easily
done on canvas than on a bead loom.
They are in all the charming bead de-
signs and in many shapes-square.
rectangular. circular and shapes that
are fanciful and elaborate. Forget-me-
nots in blue beads on crystal ground
made charming frame for the face
of woman friend which almost any
man would appreciate. Rosebuds on
a dark red ground. golden love knots
on pink opaque bead ground, etc. are
all most charming frames. The frames
must be first cut In large squares or
rectangles OF the canvas and then
stamped with the outline OF the frame
shape desired. After the bead work
II all done the inner portion OF the
canvas 10 cut out and folded under to
make the shape. Before mounting the
beadwork on the frame this should be
interlined with felt or flannel.
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-12-09
BLUE -i4T~ TEA COWS

ins and vslvets are not so satisfactory,
for they have such depth OF coloring
in their own weaves that they do not
look any better when shaded than
whom plain. A nlauve or. an ivory vel
vet or satin will have a sheen and
depth that artists admire and that in
its simple elegance is most attractive.
These are the materials and fashions
that are delightfully."- picturesque and
stay in fashion much longer than the
more ordinary models. An artistic sat
in evening gown, for instance, such as
looks best in a portrait. will. IL not too
extreme. be in fashion for several sea-
sons. while the more ordinary style
made in accordance with the prevailing
fashion OF the moment will look old
fashioned the second winter.
In view OF the apparently reckless
expenditure in modern dress 1t seems
rather absurd to advocate any one style
as advisable because it may be fash
ionabie for more than one season, but
IL a gown proves especially becoming
the most extravagant woman likes to
keep Ii over till the next season rather
than to attempt an entirely different
model that may not turn out we'll Con-
seuuently these satin gowns in the
modern colors and OF the exquisite
weaves that are now to be had claim
first attention in the choice OF winter
outfits, and old pictures are consulted.
as we'll as the latest fashion plates, by
the modistes who furnish for their ia
vored customers the very newest styles
These same artistic and picturesque
fashions require a great deal OF ma
teria1 to be well carried out. The
width around the foot OF the skirt
measures many yards, while there is
no possibility Of economy Of material
II a satisfactory effect Is to be gained
satisfactory in so far that the gown
be becoming. which it never can
be II there IL even a hint Of economy
as to the number OF yards required.
In truth, those men and women who
stand at the head OF their profession
as dressmzkers and tailors have ap-
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-12-09

parently a supreme contempt FOR Brcn
small detail as tho quantity OF tbs
material that must be used. and Gus
and slash with almost criminal reck~
lessness the most costly fabrics In
order to secure the draped effects chas
they require. The end 1usttdeg the
means" Is. however, the consensus OF
opinion Of the women who order ths
most expensive clothes and who rec
oguize that modern dress Is but an
exponent OF high art.,and as such CON-
mands it's price. There Is. however.
some satisfaction in paying high
prices for satisfactory results. Beau
tifuI materials and becoming COS
tunes do not seem so wickediy ex-
trava CANT as do the expensive clothes
which are expensive apparently for
the mere caprice OF the moment that
calls for what Is conspicuous and &C.
centric 4ather than for what is fntrin-
sically beautiful
For the benefit OF the great majority
OF women to whom. alas. the cost OF
clothes is serious consideration, ie
must needs be recorded that while. an
has been said, the most costly or
costly clothes are fashionable, it IS
perfectly possible In this age or the
world for a woman OF lnoderats
means to be fashi0nabIy and snartly
gownsd without entering into the realms
OF such luxury In dress. II Is also quits
possible TO have clothes that look dis
tinctive and Outlines. too. with a
touch OF the picturesque about them.
for Dame Fashion has most kindly
furnished this year an unusual number
OF most possible models-possfble In so
far that they can be copied at COM
paratively small cost
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-12-09


~ again for two or three years,
and now crochet work. too. is
coming to the front among
the most popular of the revived handi-
work for woman. Among those that at
first glance seem old fashioned, but
which will f. fact be among the most
up to date of handmade Christmas
gifts. are crocheted bed Jackets. They
are really very pretty made in a ribbed
design of alternating shells and plain
bands. Such a jacket in white and pale
blue wool had all the shells stitched
with a tracery OF blue silk, also a fash
ion Of fifteen or twenty years back
The jacket was finished with ruffie of
the crocheted wool around the neck,
down the front and at the bottom OF
the sleeves, which were quite down TO
the wrists. This ruffie was in the
plain crochet stitch. and was finished
with a plain crocheted band, the shells
not being used at all on the ruffie. The
Jacket is extremely warm and may be
washed.
A most useful and comfortable
Christmas gift which may be made by
skillful knitter for a woman friend
Is the motor scarf of Shetland wool,
now so popular. The scarfs, made in
thin wool and with an open mesh, give
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-12-09

beauty of the material. and the lines
seem to show all the more clearly for
being unbroken. The materials that
are now fashionable are marvellous In
their beauty OF texture and color, vel
vets, satins and cloths all possessing
wonderful sheen that reflects light. No
trimming is used, for the co1ors show or
the beauty of the material Shaded
chiffons for tea gowns and wraps are
in great demand. On account OF this
very love for color effects shaded sat
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-12-09

popular feeling against the overelabo-
ration that has been such a marked
feature of the fashions lately.
There are certainly many extremely
smart and effective gowns this winter
that are remarkable for the beauty and
perfection of their trimmings. and the
way in which elaborate trimmings
are arranged adds greatly to the beau
ty of the costume, but at the same
time the absolutely plain models are
most striking and noticeable for the
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-12-09

ders and have the lines unmarried by
passementerie binding or embroidery
invariably challenge attention, al
though it must be admitted that the
yoke OF heavy embroidery and bands
of the same embroidery down the front
are. marked and distinctive in effect.
The tea gown affords us a most ex-
ceilent opportunity for the long lines
that show to the best advantage in the
eostliest offabrics. Velvet, satin, chif-
fon and lace require a revulsion of
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-12-09

sequentiy the individual and
distinctive note is more notice
able than when all women fol-
lowed bIfndly any law Of fashion that
was given out Fashions dictates are
obeyed, to be sure, but there is no
style brought before the public that
does not have to receive most careful
attention before IL is approved or con-
demned by the majority. while the mi
nority take the style, as 1t were, tenta-
lively and then give to it the distinc-
tive or individual note that marks the
erartIy gowned woman. This season
there are several rather dificult prob
TENS TO be solved-there are three
or four very marked styles. and SO
marked and distinctive are they that in
order 20 have them satisfactorily car
Red ont II is generally necessary to
follow closely their lines and detail.
The empire gowns are now accepted
by every one, and young and old, stout
and slender alike. have fallen victim
20 the craze. The fashion at its best
IS charming, most becoming and enec-
tive: at its worst-and. alas, that is
what as a rule is seen--the fashion
makes the wearer a most impossible
caricature. To suggest the lines Of the
figure without sharply defining them
IS an art that requires most Skilled
rendering, and unless an amateur be
a genius at dressmaking she would bet
ter avoid the pitfalls that await her
when she starts out to compass a
real empire gown"
The Falsely Picturesque
Picturesque effects are extremely
fashionable, and when well handled are
extremely becoming also, but nothing
IS more fatal than, in the average
woman, to be told she is picturesque
and should gown herself accordingly
The word picturesque covers a multi
tude of sins and incidentally is respon-
sibIe for many against good taste. The
shabbiest Of frocks, badly made and
draped, not fitted, and large hats
perched at right angles to the heads
on which they are placed, are often
termed picturesque simply because the
lines bear some faint resemblance to
some picture. The picturesque robe
that is effective is simply the conven-
tionalized rendering OF artistic lines
and effects modified in accordance with
the prevailing fashion Of the day and
into becoming effects. A gown or hat
Is not becoming simply because it IS
ricturesoue: on the contrary, it is
often unbecoming in consequence.
on the other hand. too stanch fol-
lowing OF the cut and dried rules OF
the conventional fashions OF the mo-
ment- Is never satisfactory, for then
every particle of individuality is lost.
the wearer OF the gown no matter
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-12-09

ORE ana more attention Is paid
to dress IN these days. and con-
sequentiy the individual and
The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-12-09
CHARMING CHRISTMAS GIFTS TO BE NJ

y UNITING has been fashionable
\ again for two or three years,
and now crochet work, too. is
Coming to the front among
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1906-06-23
why Home Happines. Is MARRIED.

why Home Happiness Is MARRIED.
There is not that sympathy and com
radeship existing between women and
their husbands that there should be.
Most of the foolish persons who, with
out attempting to put matters right In
their own homes, bewail their misfor-
tunes or endeavor to show others the
paths of happiness are miserable
solely because of their selfishness
People to-day think only of themselves
the husband Of his dinners, his sport
his pleasure; the wife of her dress, her
shopping, her idleness. One does not
consider the needs and desires and am
billions of the other. The man looks
upon 1t as his function to earn money /;
his wife to spend 1t as soon as earned.
Home soon loses its significance when
this stage Is reached.
Man usually tolls to secure a home !;
It Is the woman's duty to make that
home more than q mere storehouse of
furniture. He provides the materials,
and 1t devolves upon her to use those
materials to the best advantage, to
make sure that their home shall be
In truth a home, haven Of rest and
peace after the rush and toll Of mans
daily work.
1t Is undoubtedly the part Of good
wife to interest herself heartily in all
that concerns her husband, to give him
full and intelligent sympathy always
and In everything, and to believe In
him. The woman who looks well to
the ways of her household has her full
work cut out for her. She must be
able to realize responsibility, and bear
It fifty; not one who considers 1t the
chief object of her existence to enjoy
herself. She should be able to hold
her own and take her place In society
without yielding herself willing slave
to Its capricious dictates.
A woman may be thoroughly prac-
teal and domesticated, yet never be
In danger Of degenerating into domes-
tic drudge whose whole soul Is OBJ
sorbed in her dustbin and saucepans
But to be a comrade one must be able
to do more than merely minister to the
needs Of the body; there must be men,
tai sympathy, understanding and re-
sponslveness.
The woman who makes the heart Of
her husband to rejoice will not only
order the affairs Of her household WISE
~, she will also keep in touch with
the broad issues of life and pay proper
attention to the outside interests which
appeal to him.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1906-06-23

One Of the fads of the Princess OF
Wales is to impress upon every one In
Great Britain the Importance of learn.
Ing to swim.
The first public statue of Queen AL.
exandra has just been commissioned
George w. Wade will execute it and
the destination Of the work is Hong
Kong.
The Countess Of Jersey Is described
as being a clever, cultivated woman
who reads and thinks and who has
been one Of the most energetic of SO.
ciety globe trotters.
Mile. de Rosen, daughter of the Rus
sian ambassador, when she makes her
debut In society will receive from the
Czarlna the badge and title of Titulal
Maid of Honor to Her Majesty.
The women of the Minerva Club OF
New York are working to have hazing
abolished In the colleges. They have
obtained Endorsements from almost ev
cry president Of all the prominent uni
verslties and are now framing a bill
making hazing a crime.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1906-06-23

to see her prettily dressed. But now
all that Is changed. He comes home,
takes his tea, reads his newspaper and
rarely says a word.
And the housewife, who has worked
hard to make things look nice and pre-
pare something special for tea, Is sad
and disheartened. mo use my trying
to please John. He never takes no.
tice" And so she frets and pines for
the little word of commentator or en-
enlargement which would mean 30
much to her. 'Trifes," some people
might say, but, then, such trifles mean
much to woman, and surely a word
or two Of praise would not be very
much out of place.
Oftentlmes it Is pure thoughtlessness
on the part of the husband this lack
of recognition Of his wife's efforts.
Live and Let Live" and IL he only
knew the difference 1t would make to
her he would often pass some pleasant
remark about her work in the home, or,
perhaps, praise her new dress. Then,
the wife likes to have some say In the
running Of things, and, given the op-
portunity, she will probably run them
more successfully than her husband. If
the thoughtless husband would only
trust his wife as he used to do before
he was married he would be surprised
at the difference 1t would make in the
home life.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1906-06-23

The design and the name Of thia
new design are both original, yet the
mode escapes eccentric lines, which
would probably prevent it's becoming a
fashionable favorite. Shaded green
French straw is used, the darkest tones
being woven into the ridged brim, while
the crown Is almost white. A fold Of
white silk ribbon sandwiched between
two of green encircles the crown, end
ing in large rosette, pierced with gilt
quilts. Loops Of velvet ribbon are
massed under the brim at the back.
A note Of marked simplicity Is struck
In the trimming of number Of the
daintiest spring hats. The shapes are
so decorative and unique In themselves
that they are easily spoiled by over
decoration. The bands of two colors
Of ribbon draped around the crown Is a
popular and effective idea. There Is
always very pale tint-frequently
white-in combination with a color
dark enough for decided contrast. The
hat sketched here Is very smart In
black and white straw, with black quilts
and black and white ribbon. the black
being in satin and the white In taffeta,
The high-crowned hats, while in every
instance becoming to tall women, must
be chosen with care by women of short
stature, else they will only tend to en-
phasize her deficiency in this direction.
Artistically trimmed, though, they can
be affected with much success.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1906-06-23
Water and Solid. in Milk,

When the cream or fat Is removed
every 100 pounds of skim milk contain
about 90 per cent of water and 10 per
cent of solids. The solids contain
about 3.5 per cent Of casein and As per
cent Of milk sugar, with small proper
tons Of fat and albumen as the fat
cannot be entirely removed. The milk
sugar remains in the whey when 1t sep
arates and the casein in the curds or
cheesy matter, though both contain
small percentages Of fat, albumen, etc.
The whey will promote the formation
of fat, while the curds supply the ele-
ments for growth and muscle. 1t will
be an advantage to feed the two sub
stances together, adding bran and sea-
son lightly with salt If the skim milk
becomes very sour and begins to fer
ment it should not be used at ALL The
proper plan Is to use the skim milk
when fresh or but slightly sour.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1906-06-23
The OId-Fashioned Wife.

A pretty young married woman said
to a friend the other day, MARY Is
such an old-fashioned wife. She has
such queer notions about her duty to
her husband and home. Why, she de-
clines all invitations unless he Is In
cluded, and never under any circum-
stances Is away from home when he
returns at night.
Then she always gets up to break.
fast with him, and even goes so far as
to prepare certain favorite dishes for
him instead Of leaving such business to
the cook. She does not go away In the
summer until he Is able to go, too, and
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1906-06-23

To whiten the hands rub them first
with lemon juice and afterward with
dry salt
Ingrowing toenails should be scraped
thin in the center Of the nall and then
cut there and at the corners.
Don't fill your bedroom with knick-
knacks and draperies. Have 1t as plain,
clean and dust free as possible.
Soft soap is acknowledgement jelly,
made with olive oil and caustic potash.
Hard soaps are made with soda, not
potash.
Sleep Is one Of the strongest founda-
ton boards of health and magic aid
to beauty and happiness, and little
attention to the pros and cons will
prove well worth while.
The Caldwell tribune. [volume] (Caldwell, Idaho Territory [Idaho]) 1883-1928, 1906-06-23

ors to sit on the west verandas of the
hotel and watch the hundreds Of sea
lions and seals which congregate on a
large rock about 200 feet from the
mainland. In stormy weather the
waves frequently swept over the top
of the building.
One hundred yards north of the Cllff
hotel are situated the famous Sutro
baths, which were built into the rocky
bluff. The baths are constructed Of
steel and glass and are said to be
among the finest in the world. They
were built at cost of about 100000
by the late Adolph Sutro, who before
his death gave them to the city of San
Francisco. The great structure ls
about 600x30O feet and the top is prob
ably 200 feet above the ocean. Here
on Sundays and holidays thousands Of
girls and boys gather to swim both
winter and summer.