davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07
A LIBRARY SCHEME
SUGGESTIONS IN COLOR AND
FURNISHINGS.
Written for The Star.

Written for The Star.
A library done in rich brown and soft
Sellows will harmonic with almost any
combination of colors in an apartment. and
In addition will be artistic II the tones
shading from deep brown to bright orange
and light canary are prettily blended.
As much depends upon the paper used on
the walls and upon the floor covering,
both should be carefully selected to cor
respond with each other as we'll as with
the furniture and hangings.
II light brown canvas or burlap put on
the walls in panels is too expensive. then
Iwo-toned cartridge paper will be an ex-
cellent substitute. and II the two shades
are sharply contrasted in either narrow or
broad stripes the effect will be most pleas
ing. The ceiling. to prevent the room from
being too dark. should be done In soft
yellow that Will tone to advantage with
the side walls.
AS basis for the furniture, and the real
foundation of the setting of the library
the floor covering must be In a shade and
or d quality OF material that blends with
every thing and yet Is not noticeable for
nothing VIII spoil the effect OF room as
much as rug or carpet that is of color
or pattern that 10 constantly obtruding
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07
Mock Turtle Soup.

Take one-haf head. scrape and clean.
then boil in water to cover until the meat
Is tender and the bones fall apart. Take
out the head and cut the meat from the
bone, laying aside the best pieces to use
later. Return the bones and rougher
pieces to the pot, together with three
quarts veal broth. Add two onions sliced,
bunch soup greens and a turtle spice
bag. This Is combination OF delicate sea-
sonings, put up in tiny bags ready to slip
in the soup pot. Cook an hour and half.
then strain and thicken with a tablespoon
full each Of -four and butter blended. Add
the pieces of meat that have been laid
aside and simmer twenty minutes. Just
before serving add a little lemon Juice,
grated rind Of lemon and egg balls. A
little sherry Is also deemed an improve
ment by many. When ready to serve have
the plates hot and slice of lemon floating
In each plate. A little minced parsley is
also often added.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07

NEW YORK, October 6. 1906
~sHE month of October opens up the
fashionable wedding season. and
from now on there will be many
of these, SO that suggestions Tor
wedding gowns are now interest
Ing to brides-to-be and their attendants
oven though not made use of.
The most fashionable Roman Cathoiic
wedding for some months in London was
that of Lord Gerard and Miss May Gosse-
lin, In Brompton Oratory.
The bridal gown was mousseline de sole
over satin. The court train was worn. The
mousseline was ivory white and the long
trained skirt was bordered with f1ounce OF
old rose point The satin was Of a deeper
shade than the mousseline. The veil was
Brussels point.
The gowns OF the attendants were exceed
ingly pretty, fashioned on the empire model.
q model admirably suited to the usually
angular figure of the young Englishwoman.
The empire draperies were of white chff-
fon. held in with empire girdles of mauve
orchd-colored satin ribbon. falling at the
back In long ends almost to the hem of the
frooks These chiffon empire robes were
plated and finished at the bottom with
plated muslin, as a protection to the chif
fon.
Empires wreathed In pale gold embroidery
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07

cred with velvet matching the cloth.
The back section OF the jacket is cut
similarly to the front, only shorter, and
the tassels finishing the ends extend per-
haps an inch below the waist line. The
center curve IL not nearly so sharp as the
front, but in a gentle curve only, and while
the back section as a whole Is shorter. 1t
covers more Of the lace blouse. This back
is picket pointed and button trimmed like
the front.
The sleeves are large puffs that at the
bottom have their fullness gathered as
tightly as possible in at the elbow, the
inner half being more like a coat sleeve.
and large button covered with velvet Is
set each side of this fullness: section
Of the cloth, perhaps seven inches deep,
extends down over the elbow. and some-
what further. like close coat sleeve. This
section has fold Of velvet near the top,
another at the bottom. and two large vel
vet buttons are set at each side of the out
side seam where the velvet ends meet. On
TALL slight figures. possessing, as these al
most always do. long waists. this model
looks very we'll. but let others beware. 1t
is not difficult to copy. but in order to look
at all well must be beautifully tailored.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07

thrust the bases of two made wings in all
shades OF red feathers. The red Is broken
between each succeeding shade or tone OF
red by row of black feathers.
A third odd hat is in marine blue velvet.
The brim is narrower at the front than
elsewhere, widening toward the sides. and
is the same width at the back as at the
sides. In front the brim scoops up the
merest bit. though the hat is tilted for
ward over the face by cachepeigne. At
the sides the brim curves down the least
bit and it stands straight out in the back.
A fold of MORE ribbon In pa!er blue Is
wound about the crown and forms the only
trimming showing at the front. AT the back
there is a big double bow spreading the
entire width of the hats brim at that point.
Above this are great clusters of the richest
blue, black and pale green grapes. with
dull green foliage. Under the brim there is
cachepeigne Of pale green tulie, matching
the color of the green grapes.
Writing of grapes recalls a beautiful
grape embroidered frock that Is to be worn
the coming season as dinner gown. This
robe is an almost tlght-ftting princess of
pale green panne velvet with a bit OF pale
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07

You wouldn't go for worlds? Oh, yes. you
will. Everybody does"
But, to talk of moro commonplace things
than ballooning, have you seen the new
furs OF the season? They are perfectly
alluring, and as 'forethought Is coin In the
pocket, quiet in the brain and content In
the heart have already selected the skins
for my winter ia cket.
The best furriers are now showing an at
tractive line of pelts and are advising their
patrons to place their orders early to avoid
And another advantage the early bird has
Is that he catches all the finest skins. Very
smart models are being shown of short
coats built Of broadtail and Persian lamb.
"
In these natty Jackets there are decided
evidences Of empire influences. And other
attractive models are built along the lines
of the close fitting short hip length coatee
with the basque tail cut into battlemented
squares. These squares are often trimmed
with black braid in which glnts a thread
of gold. The same trimming is used about
the neck and down the fronts of the coat
put on in fanoiful design. Again the
smart new fur coat boasts collar and cuffs
Of velvet ornamented with oriental en-
broidery and handsome large buttons. Lace
Of heavy variety also plays Its little part
in the adornment OF the up-to-date fur
wrap And, by the way, many Of the most
striking fur garments are of the old fash
toned shawl shape. Notably elegant are the
shawl wraps Of Russian sable lined with
brocades that stand alone and trimmed
with q congomeration of paws, tails and
heads that hang about In every direction,
and defying description.
There is a most attractive display of fur
lined theater coats Among them appears
the old time fur lined circular. Instead of
the erstwhile outer covering of black satin
or silk the revived circular Is OF cloth of
some dainty color such as pale blue, pink
or white deliberately embroidered and fin-
ished with a mink chinchilla collar. The
fur lining the wrap has no reference to the
sive pelt, either squirrel or moleskin which
are the prettiest skins for this purpose.
The debutante of the coming winter Will
revel In this circular cape as a protection
for her dainty ball costumes as well as for
other and less smart occasions.
Rumors are abroad that Medici collars
are to be again fashionable, but as yet there
have been no indications Of revival In this
direction. Except on strictly useful fur gar
ments such as motoring and sleighing coats,
when its presence Is perfectly justified, the
rumored return of the Medici has not come
to pass.
stoles and cravats still retain their de-
served popularity, and there Is certainly
nothing smarter as finish for a stunning
costume than one of these little neckpleces.
The shoulder throw" though, is a thing
Of the dead, dead past. and the swagger
way to manipulate the small cravat ends
is to loop them directly under the chin, al
lowing the lengths to fall to the waist line
These neckpieces are often trimmed with
several rows Of tails or are rounded in q
neat fashion.
MuTs are again to be large and fiat; IN
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07
(a67 A&6&IMag@5Z yR5@&1g9 }

green chiffon at the top, and 1t Is trimmed
with serrated bands of grape embroidery.
These bands are of darker shade of SILK
and shaded green grapes. and with some or
darker colors-black, I believe-the writer
is describing this second hand, as the owner
of the creation Is not yet in town. In the
lower points the grapes lie as a cluster, and
in the top points Of serrated band they
droop downward. Between the punches are
tendrils and a few leaves. The grapes are
done in velvet and the rest In finest
chenille and silk. The embroidery Is done
by hand, and no two punches are exactly
alike or arranged In exactly the same man
ner.
An empire effect IL given to the top by q
little bolero, made entirely Of the grape
embroidered silk, and which Is to be slipped
on after the robe is donned. This little
bolero might be copied in heavy velvet rib
bon. There are wide bands going over the
shoulders and these dip down in single
point over the top of each chiffon sleeve.
These shoulder bands are merely an extern
sion of the empire girdle effect. This latter
forms a dip point in the center front and
one in the back, with corresponding down.
ward turning>V at the top. Under the arms
are other VS., but no points on the lower
edge. The. serrated hand effect Of the robe
trimming Is carried out as much as posi-
BILE In this little bolero. which fits so closely
that 1t does not seem separate piece when
once on. Above this bolero effect the grapes
are differently arranged on this bolero.
There is a huge cluster in the center points,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07
PARIS FASHIONS
cial Correspondence Of The Star.

Special Correspondence Of The Star.
PARIS, September %. 1906
Afraid! NonsenseI OF course. I'm not.
Will be delighted to go-think It's the jol-
lest thing out. Where did you say we
would make the ascent7 You will motor
out there at tomorrow afternoonf AL
right Count me in. Goodbye"
Coming suddenly into the charming little
apartment OF smart Russian friend of
mine the other day. I overheard the above
talk over the phone. Where on earth are
you going now. Nina?" I exclaimed. Go
ing dear! Why. I'm not going anywhere on
earth. I'm going up in the air." Seeing my
mystifed expression. she added: You
sedate old dear, don't think l ought to in
habit an asylum, for I'm only going up in
balloon under the most careful chaperon-
age. Don't you know" she continued,
that this Is the latest sensation In out Of
door sports here in Paris? OF course, you
must take your nerve with you. as the
slangy American says, and 'twixt you and
me, I'm bit shaky, but all the same
shall make the trip If die with fright: All
the smart Parisiennes are ballooning. Why,
1t will be glorious, the sensation Of flying
through the air. Motoring must be slow
going compared with this new fad What
1
are becoming interested. Let me tuck this
pillow at your back, so. and I'll tell you.
~
"Of course, as you can imagine, light
weight clothing is a necessity, for the bal
loon must carry as little weight as possible.
Then short skirt Of walking length Is
worn for various reasons. One Of these Is
that it is more convenient in the car, an
other that 1t Is easier to get in and out of
the basket in short dress, and, again,
should the car alght on top of a tree, as
one Of the balloons did the other day, the
short skirt will be convenient for the descent
Then, you know. the place at which a bal
loon descends cannot always be controlled
and a walk may be in prospect at the end
of the trip. So 1 will wear pair of stout
shoes. AS to headgear, l am going to wear
that smart little Virot toque l bought the
other afternoon the green and blue crea-
ton, you remember, that is SO fetching
No, you don't have to put pair of I'M
becoming goggles, because there Is no wind
to contend with, and you don't wear veil,
for there is no dust and no grit as on
motoring expedition l am going to take
an extra wrap In case 1t should be cold
Just my regular three-Quarters length auto
coat.
Now, then. when some one invites you
to go up in balloon one Of these lovely
autumn days you will Immediately rush
into duplicates Of the toys l have described
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07

probably take a greater hold as winter adj
vances, but at present the single-breasted
fiy-front, the one that stops short on
either side the front and shows pretty
vest has come to the fore. The vest,
however. may be either double single
breasted and be equally stylish. At pres
ent 1t is impossible to say to what extent
fur coats will be worn the coming winter,
for no matter what Is predicted IL will all
depend on the weather.
Pleated skirts have quite superseded the
circular skirts and home dressmakers are
correspondingly grateful, for 1t is a phys
ical impossibility to cut circular skirt SO
as to prevent its sagging. With the pres
ent vogue of plaIds and pleated skirts We
have another difficulty confronting us, but
one that with careful planning can be over
come; that is, the matching OF the plaids.
1t may not always be possible to exactly
match them, but they can be arranged so
as to bring them even on both sides, which,
for all practical purposes, is the same.
However we have a choice OF plain mate
rails which are equally stylish.
AS was once the case. the advent OF fall
and winter does not Danish white goods.
Batistes are being shown in great variety,
plain, fancy and merceriZed. The embroid-
cries in pale tints and white designs In mer-
CeTlZcU cOllOHS anu III DOLu anu OpfU-
work designs are charming: apricot. mauve,
rose and light and dark blue are included
In the color range.
Braids of all descriptions will be used
lavishly by mothers for trimming little
coats and dresses: broad. fiat braids will
be seen on the heavier cloths, such as
broadcloth coats. and for the lighter weight
wooden material used for dresses narrow
cord braids are shown.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07

both back and front, and large leaf on
each side.
The robe showing above this bolero is of
chiffon shirred or gagged. and has v
in the center front and back, not a very low
one. as at the sides only about two inches
Of the shoulders between the base OF the
neck and the arms shows. A millner's fold
Of green panne velvet finishes the under
edge and folds OF white tulle are arranged
under this to go next the skin. Green chif-
fon forms the full. short, single puff
sleeves, and also shows around the arm
holes where the little bolero does not quite
cover the bodice section. This chiffon is
also gagged.
The sleeves end well above the elbows
and form just above the elbows to a point
just below them Unlined gagged chiffon
forms a part OF mousquetaire top to meet
the long gloves.
An odd and not especially attractive gar
ment on the average figure il a pinafore
coat. matching. of course. the skirt Of
new style costume just out in Paris. This
pinafore or jumper Jacket carries out the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07
GIRLS TAILoR-MADE FRoCK.

At least one tailor suit should be included
in the young girls wardrobe. whether she
be in the country city. for there are &C.
casions when nothing else will take its
place One that Is neither too light nor to
heavy will give best service. and on the
same principle choose a material which Is
neither too dark nor too light in color. The
mixed suitings offer an excellent choice Of
both color and weight. and, by the way.
a wooden which has a tight twist and rath-
er stiff. sprlngy feeling when crushed in
the hand will wear better and shed dust,
while the softer weaves are perfect dust
collectors.
For the design shown five and half
yards of material forty-two inches wide will
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07
Smart Paris Hints.
Special Cablegram to The Star.

special taDleRram TO Inc Star.
PARIS. Oct. 6.-For the last month or
two speculation has been rife as to what
will be leading modes in millinery, and one
idea after another has been taken upon and
rejected. In the inner sanctums of fashion.
however, the modes have been decided for
some time past, and some very important
innovations may be said to have taken
place One of the most striking of these is
the popularity of braid as applied to the
new hats, some Of the shapes being entirely
covered with rows of braid.
very smart model. which the leading
modistes in Paris have decided shall repre-
sent the favorite hat of tomorrow. is
carried out in the Louis XVI shape with
a crown of taffetas cut in the form OF a
sailors cap. only somewhat fuller, while
the brim is entirely covered with narrow
silk braid to match. the only trimming be-
ing a large bird OF paradise falling almost
to the shoulder An admirable substitute
for this can. however, be found in the coq's
pIumes, and the stand which has been made
against the slaughter of the beautiful bird
of paradise for this purpose will do much
to popularize the former. The skill with
which these clusters of coq's pumes
arranged nowadays. and the wonderful
shades which they are dyed, make them
equal to some of the most gorgeous tropi-
cal plumage In the estimation Of the modern
elegante'
felt which can be maneuvred into any shape
is cause of much satisfaction to women In
general, and hats of this description are in
variably used for morning wear, and sre
usually quite small, the brim. which is mar
row and curled up little at the edges. be-
ing almost hidden under a ruche of velvet.
The vogue for pasted shades in this connec-
ton is growing daily, the hats being TRIM
med with ruches of velvet to match and
long coQs plumes. Many of the felts for
autumn wear are carried out In the new
soft tones such pearl or alabaster and
adorned with copper colored. green or sap.
phre velvet and dyed wings.
NINE. HYDORNM
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07

idea Of the pinafore frock Of the summer,
but In chiffon broadcloth.
The skirt trails In the back, lies on the
about the feet In the front IN apparently
the most distressing fashion. although q
stiffened edge to the foundation skirt usu-
ally keeps these fioppy frocks from inter-
fering to a dangerous extent with ones
walking in them.
The skirt is gored to At. has narrow
front panel over which the side cores lap.
the latter being neld in place by a row OF
large buttons OF any desired material down
each edge, an inch from the extreme edge.
A blouse Of lace or other desired ma
terial in white or cream is the foundation
over which the pinafore coat Is slipped.
This has large circular opening at tho
top. finished by shaped band OF the clotn
embroidered in some handsome design IN
self or contrasting colors. and there are
two large cabochons in both the front and
the back The body of the coat Is laid in
plaits away from the center front. The.
center front itself is a wide. shallow box
plat. The plaits are pressed in and then
tackled invisbly, and at each side the ends
run down the front to a point five inches
below the waist line. sharpening into
points, each having sewed on it at Its end
large, heavy tassel in silk and chenille to
hold 1t down. Between these two points
the front of the coat is cut up to the center
in a deep curve, SO that whereas the side
ends hang in points several inches below
the waist line, in the center front the curve
extends almost to the bust line, showing
q generous section Of the fancy lace blouse
Under the arms this front piece is cut to
1oin the back. These front and back sec
lions Join each other perhaps an inch be-
low the arms eye, and the Joining extends
down about four inches, then they sep
arate. The edges Of both are finished by
the cloth being cut in little picket points
inch and a quarter long Dy
two-thirds that in width and near the point
of each there Is a small button mold COW
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07

and vases other pottery In the yellow
arts and crafts style the ornamentation
will not only be in keeping with the char
acter of the apartment but decidedly
effective.
The furniture for this room must be in
brown, and in a medium-sized fiat or apart
ment heavy leather or large frame and
upholstered pieces are really out Of place.
SO that for harmony wicker or willow
lounging chairs and deep. wide seated ones
that are comfortable for reading may be
secured for reasonable prices in the natural
color and then stained at home to cor
respond with the surroundings. A table
In dark oak or In the Flemish mission
finish should mark the center Of the room,
and If convenient it should be Of an OBJ
long shape.
couch or divan in library is always
desirable, and IL cover In soft brown
velour is used. with pillows Of bright old
orange. deep gold and the varying shades
of brown piled on in confusion, 1t will
be an artistic addition to the room. The
pillows, many Of which should be put on
pieces OF denim. canvas and burlap, any
one of which comes in tones Of yellow and
brown that will be effective. Just for con-
trast one or two handsome cushions
should be used in the pile. A striking one
OF golden silk, with deep brown ruffie, or
attractive. would be also lemon-colored
silk pillow with a touch Of old orange at
the corners.
At the doors portieres of yellow or brown
jute or arras cloth simply made, with the
hens turned outward in the popular mis-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07
be required for girl sixteen years of age

Vests have taken US by storm, and they
are shown in the best models, rivaling each
other In shape and materials, being shown in
velvet, silk, cloth and even fur. Some of the
cloth and velvet ones are deliberately hand
embroidered, with touches of gold and Sill
yer. The plain cloths are braided. A new
gown, a French model, recently Shown, had
a plaid cloth vest, the dark color of the
plaid matching exactly the color of the ma
terial Of the coat. The Greek key design
is much employed in oTnamenting these
vests, whether 1t be OF braid or hand en-
broidery Appliqued trimmings are also
extensively employed, and they are shown
in beautiful designs and exquisite rich col
orings
Coats are any length. but for young girls
the short or extremely long are considered
more chic The double-breasted coats will