The San Francisco call., 1906-05-20
By A. T. AsEMoRE.

PARIS, May s. 19o6.-It would seem as
though the world Of womankind had
fairly gone mad this year on the subject
Of embroidery. and the amount of il that
is used on every sort and kind of ma
terial is almost inconceivable, especially
when il is realized that .-4e greater part
OF it is real hand work and the cost Of it,
in consequence, very great Nothing, in
truth, shows better how much money
there is in circulation than this present
lad, for no woman who is up to date is
content with only one embroidered gown,
but must have an unlimited number at
practically unlimited cost
All cloths, silks. crepe de chine gauze,
batiste. linen and all wash materials fur
nlsh an opportunity I most elabora te
braiding and embroidery and for the dis
play OF exquisite taste and originality in
The designs The Greek pattern seen on
many Of the more severe styles of gowns
is not. Of course, an unusual one, but
there are added TO IL so many modifca-
tons and Celebrations. as IL were, that
often the original lines are almost hid
den Then there are the Lower designs
IN which the flower is apparently lost
sight Of. and which are idealized and mod
ernized TO form exquisiteIy graceful
curved lines and odd figures, which, al
though a botanist at first glance would
decide they were not intended for any
flowers that could be classified as such.
meet with genral approval and can be
Identified by any one al all up in that
neomentous estion-6ress and the ap-
q polntments thereof. Linens for the mo
nent are the principal wash materials
chosen 70 display the art of the en-
hroiderer. but on SIX and cloth there is
also an excellent opportunity 10 show off
beautiful work and fine designs.
The afternoon gown Is very elaborate
one this season, and whether made UP for
spring or summer wear is on much the
same lines. For the spring lightweight
cloth, silk or some one OF the hundred ma
terials in the nature OF voile, but which
This year have many strange names. are
rlOrein style, but for the summer the
thinner so-called wash fabrics Will be
worn. Silk and pongee viii do duty for
both seasons. and, IN fact some OF the
very handsomest emba oideries of the year
have been worked on these two materials.
Everything in the way of embroidery,
where there is any amount of il used, is
il one color. or rather, in one tone, and the
effect is extremely satisfactory. Il might
be thought that there would be some mo-
Dotony in consequence of using only one
color. but the difference between the ef-
feet given by the silk braid or embroidery
and the material itself furnishes a variety
Of effect that is most satisfactory.
ROBE GOWNS ATTRACTIVE.
Embroidered robe gowns" as they are
called. are very attractive. and the most
expensive ones make UP well. although
care must be taken. Just as much as when
buying the cheaper ones. that there is
sufficient material 70 make the skirt wide
enough and long enough, and to have 1t
50 arranged-that is. the pattern-that
the skirt can be made TO hang well.
There is no apparent reason why these
robe gowns should not be easily put to-
gether, provided they can be hung or
fitted; but they are not so easy TO make
up as they seem TO be and require what
is known as careful treatment in order
10 gain the desired style.
II may be questioned II there ever was
2 time in the annals Of dress when there
were more beautiful clothes than there
are at present and although as is well
known, the cost of clothes is very great,
Al all events women can now feel that
they are getting the worth Of their money
when they invest IN the beautiful en-
brofderies and 1aces with which the smart
costumes Of today are so deliberately
trimmed The princess gown and En-
pire gown as well afford a capital op-
portunity for the display OF fine en-
broidery, and the wide hounces, so ex-
tremely popular, enable the pattern of
The embroidery 10 be seen at glance.
The short jackets, both in the Elton and