The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-29

THE buttons were not visible even on the
false cuff. That was edged to what would
have been the depth Of a real cuff along
the sleeve. There was the same piping
across the top of the upper pocket.
That coat was by long odds the smart
est thing saw in London. 1t was not in
the least fiashy or sensational, but it did
re quire that a gentleman wear it. l will
a emit that on a vulgar looking man 1t
m light also AVE looked vulgar"
The enthusia site tailor's tout took an
other cigarette out of the gold case.
"Of course" he went on, as IL in
so nIoquy, such a coat must be super
latively well made. The mi ute you at
tempt anythi ng out of the ordinary in
dress only p erfection can make 1t accept
able.
THAT coat, which was free from padding,
fit ted closely over the shoulders, Then
it fell loosely, althou Oh the curves OF the
figure were plainly outlined. Such cutting
IA that is a triumph OF the tall4r,s art
THAT is what a few of the best of our
New York tailors also do; but there is
nothing more difficult in the %tailor's art
than to cut a coat which shall be loose in
effect and yet follow the lines OF the figure.
Zone OF the new things for evening dress
was ii III JdShCb "iNi ~
elaboration than any of our tailors has
ever dared to attempt. 1t was rather
long, cut so as to show the outlines OF the
figure and made Of a soft, rather rough,
material.
aThe lapels, the collar, the pocket flaps
and the sleeves were all edged in black
silk braid half an inch wide. The collar
was of cloth, and the silk on the lapels
stopped an inch away from the edge. -
The silk was a satin finish twill The
waistcoat was of black silk. There Is more
to be said about that.
This coat represented in the highest
degree the present tendency to, decorate
the dinner jacket. In spite of the excess
Of braid, the effect was not stiff.
For an informal dress garment, the
effect was not bad. 1t was certainly better
thar the last attempt to elaborate a dinner
coat that ] saw in London. -,
"The tailor who had don that put twill
silk cuffs on the sleeves, which turned back
at least two and a hail inches. Inc erect
was decidedly bad.
Next winter the braided dinner jacket
will be introduced here. 1t will be a sue
cess, too.
Now, as to that silk waistcoat. 1t was
black with an almost indistinguishable
alloyer pattern. The tie to wear with the
suit was made of the same material. 1t
seemed to me that carried matching ma
terials as far as / had ever seen it go.
at can go still further, however. The
tailor tOlQ me tndt ne Hdu Indue Il iluiilDcl
of these suits in which the material on the
lapel was the same as the waistcoat and
the tie. So, you see there can be still more
exact matches.
when this was done the pattern on the
silk used for the waistcoat, tie and lapels
was barely discernible. In some cases a
plain twill silk was used. II this fashion
ever becomes popular here it will be the
plain twill, and not the figured silk, that
will be used.
- - " ~
in London is suited only to young men.
Now the London tailors are pressing the
seams Of all coats in a way that makes
them stand out very distinctly.
Thus, in a frock coat the seams on the
side are so pressed that they are raised
about a quarter of an inch above the goods.
The same thing is Hone in the Gaze Of a
sack coat. These long, loose garments