Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-15

with ernline and ntted Win an oulSiuo
pocket which serves as a hiding place for
such indispensables as handkerchief ana
powder puff Long wraps this season are
not made of fur. The sedate fur-Hned
pelisse of last season has vanished and to-
day fur in It's newest and most frivolous
role hirts with lace and cloth as garni-
ture for the simplest models, thus giorffy-
ing a plain bolero into dressy garment:
The long stole of chinchilla Or sable wound
twice around the neck worn with moder-
ate-sized muff is the fur adjunct OF the trot-
teur suit
But the height of pelt luxury is reached
in a scarfiike stole of ermine reaching to
the hem of the gown, where the ends spread
out fanshape and are trimmed with three
rows of ermine tails arranged in tiers one
above the other. Fancy braid ornaments
are new touches on a number of short fur
coats and boleros, while tiny plaitings or
taffeta silk find themselves making smart
the cuffs and collars of other models. Just
before Langtry sailed for America this sea-
son a famous Partisan furrier made her
wrap of sable that was work of art. The
coat, jaunty affair in hip length, was reg
ular enough as to cut, but over the shoul-
ders there was cape of sable that seemed
to outextravagance extravaganza itself.
The three-quarter sleeves were startling
with their deep cuffs Of coarse brown net
lined with brown silk.
and evening gowns, but the straight Dor
dering is no longer seen, the Grecian key
pattern having taken its place. Festoons
and rosette devices incrusted with medal
lions of lace and painted muslin are en-
ployed with exquisite effect. Caracul IN
cream and black is a favorite fur this WIN
ter. Indeed, one wonders where all the
skins come from and one almost fears the
determination of the rarer species. To be
sure, skins and parts of skins that were
never used before are now turned to very
good account But to come back to cream
caracul, q dear of a short coat was worn
at tea room the other afternoon by
pretty girl of the blond type A note OF
color was introduced by way of discreet
touches Of sapphire velvet, white braid and
a few jeweled buttons.
This mixture sounds alarming, but the
effect was charming. for the values were
well balanced. as they are in every real
1msy affair, was braid trimmed. the ends
of each row being drawn through diminu-
tive paste buckles.
The cape effect is becoming quite mania
in Paris. even for evening dresses, and the
popular sleeve Of the moment is mae In one
piece, SO far as the upper part is concerned,
with the bodice. A great many elegantes
are appearing In toilets showing the new
long shoulder line. This effect, one
might suppose, Is not that OF 1880, but
rather suggests VI beautifully
gowned women wearing dainty shoulder
capes.
If 1t be true that coming events cast their
shadows before, then the return Of the long
sleeve is almost within sight. The advent
of artistic long diaphanous draperies for
evening wear we may take as the thin en-
tering wedge.
X
No one Is ever sure just what will hap
pen in the realm of fashion. The Duchess
of Devonshire thought she put the hoop
skirt out of commission forever, but 1t has
bobbed up serenely several times since her
day. Likewise Americans thought that
their influence against the long skirt for
street wear could kill 1t, but they, too, have
failed. The sweep jupe is with us this year.
afternoon reception or the theater in a
walking length skirt. And what an I'M
mense flare or swish these skirts have at
the bottom! There is no hint of stiffness
at the foot line, for there Is nothing to hold
the skirt out except the quantity OF mate
rial that goes into its making
In connection with long skirts two friends
of mine recently had an audience with the
pope. who, noticing that they wore train
dresses, commented On them. "They are
not hygienic," said he, for in the street
for myself, when I am obliged to add
train to my cassock it is q bother to me,
though there are four prelates to hold 1t
up"
when we go into the street." said one of
the visitors.
THAT must be exceedingly inconvenient."