The Birmingham age-herald., 1906-10-07

One of the prettlest designs that has appeared so far in the more practical class of autumn and winter wraps Is that which Is known as the Belmore. Com bining, as it cleverly does, the charms of the fitted and the semiftted modes, it is sure of an enthusiastic acceptance from the woman of taste. In the illustration it Is shown developed in one of those smart Irish tweeds, which fashion fayors so strenuously this season, the choice be- ing In strict accord to the vogue that Is so liberally accorded to all things Irish The ground is Il pretty pearl gray, one of the light tints that do not show dust readily, and this is plaided in open de- sign by hair lines in lavender and violet, presenting to n charm the combination of delicate eolors that Is really the key note of this seasons style. A hint of the preference for mannlsh modes that asserts itself strongly in imported mod els is seen in the cut, and is further en- phasized in the mannish collar and lapels, that are faced In a dull shade of violet cloth. The back and sides define the fig ure sharply, while the doublebreasted fronts are managed with dart that curves from the shoulderline down to the side seam below the waist and makes for q delightful effect of curved slender ness. Pockets are deftly tucked Into the cloth applique that covers this dart, be- low which the side seams flare sharply.
 IN ACCORDANCE WITH DRESSER DEMANDS.
 For those who still cling to the style of md Ctrt Int tR f,l tt, ha heaviest winter costumes, this smart model really separate coat but made up with an unllned skirt to match when so desired, will commend itself. One of the lighter-weight meltons Is used, bralds arc called upon to add their smart effects, and the touch of velvet at collar and cuff makes for the softening element that the mode demands.
 The back Is fashioned with a full com plement of seams, each with pleat deftly tucked in, that is pressed fiat and relea sed after the hip curve is passed. The side seams are treated after the same fashion, while the fronts accentuate that smart shoulder dart that in the newer mode is made to curve in the most fetch Ing manner. Braid trimmings are posed on each seam, calling attention to the perfection of cut and finish that the tailored work is expected to show up to perfection. The fronts present panel cleverly combined in the double-breasted fastening and pockets are ingeniously cut into the applique of cloth that finishes the line of the shoulder dart.
 Like all of the separate wraps that are la mode, the seven-eighths length Is fonowed. This really gives all the warmth and protection that full-length wrap affords in winter weather, while at the same time eliminating the extra weight of cloth entailed in the added inches displayed by the ful-length wrap. THE MODE OF THE MARCHIONESS.
 Copied from n most attractive stage wrap worn by the ''Marchioness" of the piece at the Theatre Gymnase, Paris, the design has been reproduced with the title of the Marchoness, thus recalling the trlumphs of the original wearer of the design. A model that will prove espe- cialy effective for well nigh every kind of figure, the professional designer, as well as the home dressmaker, will find many hints and possibilities for repro. duction. The fit over the shoulders is made with what is in truth a yoke, but so cleverly cut that one overlooks the fact that it is merely a square yoke. un-