Fergus County argus. [volume] (Lewistown, Mont.) 1886-1946, 1906-02-09
in KITCHEN
OF THE CAR
FIVE THOUSAND DOLLARS A DAY
Is WHAT IT COSTS TO MAIN
TAIN IT.

Five thousand dollars a day for
kitchen expenses sounds a bit extrav-
agant, even when one considers that
it is the kitchen of the car of all the
Russias. Eight hundred people whose
sole business in life is to prepare and
serve the food-not the drink, for it
requires another army to look after
the wine cellars-of one man, one
! woman and three little girls! Humph.
Think how they might complicate tine
servant question if they took it into
their heads to get Independent like
the American servant girl, says the
Chicago Chronicle.
| Well, fortunately they don't. But the
picture of life in the cars kitchens
as it is painted by Victor Hirtzler,
now chef in one of the big San Fran.
cisco hotels, but formerly one of the
chefs of the palace of st. Petersburg,
is an interesting one. According to his
account none of the royal housekeep-
ings of Europe-and royalty does not
generally bother it's head about petty
household econOmics-can compare in
extravaganza with the housekeeping
of the car of Russia. For pure, unal-
loyed, needless prodigality the series
of kitchens and sub-kitchens that ca
ter to the palate of Nicholas of Rus
STA lead the world.
The little father has the most aris-
tocratic stomach of all Europe. Ev-
cry palace, shooting box, yacht and
summer home belonging to the most
high of Russia has its distinct and sep
arate corps of retainers, chefs, cellar
men. underchefs and dishwashers, not
to mention the lesser gifts of the
culinary world. Although there are
dozens of royal estates that the car
and mis- family never see. each and ev-
full retinue always ready with full
larder awaiting the possibility of a
visit from the man who is master of
! all.
Cooks Are Born.
| Mr.. Hirtzlei comes of a long line
of professional Alsation cooks. He
has his diploma from university of
cookery. He says that the cooks who
fill high places in the kitchens of roy.
atty are specially educated for the pc.
sitiOn. He insists that cooks. like
kings and poets. are born, not made
Having, however. established the
point beyond peradventure he goes
on to tell just how they are made
after having been born-as almost ev.
cry chef de cuisine connected with
royalty was born of a family that for
generations has been producing ia.
nous cooks. They are thoroughly ed.
ucated in the first place. They must
study the sciences, chemistry, physi
ology, physics, before they can hope
to acquire the gentle art of catering
to and soothing the royal stomach
For the slightest indisposition after
meals on the part of royalty is likely
10 give rise to sinister rumors of poi
soning, which reflect sadly on the hon
or and reputation of the chef.
At Straasburg there is a regular
university of culinary arts. In its
many departments are taught the in
tricacies of different kinds of cooking
For instance, if you wish to become
an expert in French cookery matricu
late with the stated desire to become
a B. A. in that line. If German, like
wise. substituting German for the
French. One never attempts to mix
the compromising of pate de foie gras
with the making of superior sauer
kraut. Pates are pates and kraut is
kraut.
Most of the chefs in the royal kitch
ems of Europe are graduates of this
university Mr. Hirtzler is a grad
uate of the department of French cook
cry. Having acquired his diploma, he
applied to friend who had some pull
with the head chef at St. Petersburg
for a position in the kitchen there
Now, cooks being plenteous and royal
houses scarce. Mr.. Hirtzler realized
that it was as we'll not to sit down
and wait for the mountain to come tt
Mohammed. but to bestir himself or
voluntaire duty
First Round Of the Ladder.
Every student who graduates from
the university is compelled to become
"voluntaire" for some kitchen for q
term of months until he is able to say
that experience, practical as we'll as
theoretical, is his much as students
in medicine are compelled to do in
: terne duty before becoming full fledg
; ed doctors. Mr.. Hirtzler, therefore
= became an inferno to the chef of one
of the lesser duchies of Germany
placing his foot in the first round Of
| 'iIC lAdt leu W d CucluOIl u
his own. Here he stayed for some
4, months without pay until the call t.
st. Petersburg sounded in his waitin,
ears.
Now, Nicholas is careful of some O
his expenses and never pays passage
either to or from his residence to an,
= one. Mr.. Hirtzler. therefore, answer
ed the summons at what might be call
I ed owners risk He entered tn,
Russian kitchen in the French depart
e ment under the guidance of Eugene
+ krantz. that famous chef of the Rus
3 sian palace whose fame has become
. worldwide
: Every attendant in the kitchens O
: the car serves there two years Thel
4 the underlings. at least, move on TO
I cooks. Cooks. according to Mr.. Hirtz
Ter, like every one else, lose ambition
and knowledge if they stay too lon,
: IN one place. The experience is goos
e and the pay is better, but not every
thing is to be learned in the kitchen
e of the car AS soon as one leave
there are dozen ready and willin,
: to fill the vacancy. The czarina i
, never put to the extremity of search
}, ing the intelligence office. She is
\ mark for all the cooks of Europe. Be
4 ing car and czarina has some few
4 compensations
: Nicholas Likes Soup.
f1o fpyr ~,