Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-09

able! One Of their latest means
II Of torture Is the introduction OF
the overskirt. A more unesthetic
style never AFFLICTED civilization. but that
will not prevent the garment from ICING adj
mired by the smart world. A brown crepe
de chine costume just received ION Paris
demonstrates the overskirt vogue. It Is
made with three bias ruff1es around the bot
tom of the full petticoat. Over this in thin
cloth of the same shade are draped two deep
points, one back and the other front, the
points falling to the bottom Of the skirt,
the drapery at one side going halfway to the
knees before 1t slopes away to the back
and front. 1t Is hoped that this overskirt
affection will wear itself out this season.
There is a demand for lightness in the
sartorial world, and airy gowns bought by
the ounce rather than by the yard are the
rule rather than the exception. Light set
tings. too, are being used in jewelry, and
the barbaric styles that were thought SO
smart last winter are taboo this year OF
grace. long chain recently made for
society woman Is Of fine gold wrought in
a delicate pattern and studded with precious
stones. first fine black pearl, next gleam-
ing fire opal, then fiery-hearted ruby with
here and there flashing diamond.
X
The smartest of winter raiment calls for
severely straight lines There is not
curve in the seams of the swagger hip
length Jackets Of tailored suits from abroad.
The long coats Of broadcloth do not ripple
in at the waist line, but follow an unyield-
ing perpendicular from the arms eye to
point where the fronts curve away severely
and precisely like a mans cutaway. 1t is
absolutely vulgar to have hips or waist
line, and there you are.
x
Many Of the most costly hats depend
almost wholly on their shape and material
for effect. Tulle is lavishly employed. but
it usually matches the general color tone,
so is unobtrusive The buckle and the bird
are oftener than not all the characterization
employed.
One of the new fads of the season, and
a pretty fad 1t Is, too, Is the combination
of coral and cameo in setting of dull
gold.
No doubt the craze for gay colors had
more or less to do with this decidedly I'M
usual fashion, and the pink and reddish
colors Of TIE stones are a feature of the
newest necklaces and combs.
"a
The hens Of many Of the seasons fluff
est ball gowns are to be weighted down
with trimming Of some kind, fur, marabou
and even swansdown being used. Another
form Of ornamentation is embroidery in
lightly woven metal ribbons. either silver,
lands Of flowers with fragile foliage and
petals Of gold or silver gauge are found
ready to apply. With a little taste the
most exquisite frock could be evolved
combining these and tulline, which Is q
new fabric somewhat heavier than tulle.
but with the same mesh and waterproof
finish. OF course there must be two layers
of the same tulhne yelling; the foundation
On, h. 49, l.
mand can only be gained in this manner.
In fur. ermine or miniver are the favorites,
even supplanting Russian sable, which was
formerly the most popular and fashion
able Of fur borderings.
-
Black spangles, and these are classed as
Jet, though not SO, properly speaking,
never quite drop from notice, some
statuesque beauty appearing almost every
season In glittering black robe which so
accentuates her good points that others
Immediately follow her example. But real
Jet has not come up for notice for some
thing like twenty years. It made a modest
appearance last winter. and spring found
many leading dressmakers advocating 1t to
their patrons.
~
The popular ribbon embroidery appears
even on slippers. Those Of pink, blue and
white kid have q pretty design done in
ribbon on the vamp. and some are further
embellished with cut steel beads and col
ored stone ornaments.
~
A smart evening wrap Is indispensable
and. In fact. two or more should be pro-
vided for the debutante. One should be
light in color and OF cloth or silk. and the
other which Ia for theater wear or for
any similar entertainment for which other
conveyance than carriage be used. to be Of
q mediumly dark, or even dark shade.
Gray or dark red are the two best for the
be in the most becoming Of the many ex-
collar should be provided that can be worn
with either IL the purse be long enough.
In getting fur for this purpose 1t Is well
to get the best possible. for detachable
collar comes In for many occasions. and
cheap or an imitation fur does not stand
even light wear for one season. and one
Of these collars should last long time
with good care. Hudson bay sable Is an
excellent choice. although white fox IL q
great temptation because of its fuf1ness
that seems Just meant to frame q young.
pretty face. Lace Is not as much used
on these wraps az formerly. but instead Is
lavfshed upon the various frocks for house
wear, especially on those worn for the
afternoon by the debutante daughter when
she has an informal gathering Of her
young friends.
4
Gloves must not only be long enough