Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-09-30

from the feet. This stiffening is feather
bone or something similar let into the lower
and bound edge of the silk foundation.
The upper skirt comes half way between
the knees and the floor. The plaits in the
simulated under jupe are stitched down
| from above the knees to little below, and
| the upper skirt Is slashed up the front sides
and back to the knees. 1t is finished at the
| edge by facing of blue silk cloth three
! quarters of an inch wide. This facing Is
! first stitched on. then turned over on the
under side and stitched bit from the edge
| on the right side with two rows of dark
| blue silk.
! On one side of the slashes Is a row Of
| six buttonholes and on the other as many
medum-siZed black silk crochet buttons.
| They could not. however, be buttoned I'M
der any circumstances. and the arrange
| ment is purely and quite evidently orna-
mental This upper jupe Is gored to fit
smoothly and has no plaits anywhere save
| the two underlying stitched down affairs at
| the center back.
| The girdle is narrow and of blue kid
| exactly the shade OF the serge. or as near
as kidd may be, and closes with small
kid-covered buckle.
The pony coat has the regulation coat
| collar. The revers of dark blue silk,
but the collar itself is Of scarlet cloth, with
edge, where, turning, it forms tiny picket
points. At the top inside next the neck
the braid goes straight over and down under
| the coddar section.
and armhole goes from each shoulder in
the front-the back has none-and termi-
mates just above the bust line. This seam
| has its edges turned in just enough to
show a lire Of dark blue silk. and the
! seams edges are stitched perhaps eighth
/ of an inch from their edges with blue silk.
| At the lower part of this seam or, more
properly, slash, two buttonholes are worked
| in dark blue silk and tiny black silk crochet
buttons are set on. The buttonholes slane
outwardly from the seam. Just below
! each slash a pocket is simulated by cross
wise slash outlined with two rows Of
| soutache braid forming three little Gully
cues at eah corner.
| On each side of the jacket fronts there
are also two more slashes running from
| just below the bust OF the pockets. These
are simulated slashes fromed by the appli-
cation Of very narrow and sharply tapered
pieces of blue silk that are perhaps third
! of an inch wide at the bottom with sharp
points at the top. Soutache braid outlines
| each one. -a~--s
The pockets have outside flaps. straight
across at the top and rounded at the bot
blue silk and outlined by two rows of SOU
tache two forming the outer row and max
| ing the crlycues at the top corners. The
wascoat ends just at the top of the
wide-that is all that shows of it, The
material is scarlet broadcloth, and black
soutache runs diagonally downward across
each section and over and under the edges.
there being no other finish. 1t closes with
a row of eight dull black crochet buttons.
The sleeves are quite large and full. COM
pared with many models. and are laid IN
tiny box plaits at the top. The eleeve proper
ends at the elbow and the deep cuff makes
up the rest of it. This cum Is faring,
stiffening affair Of blue serge. edged with
soutache braid having two lines at the
edge and another line an inch below. The
cuffs are cut in at the center top-at the
back or outer seam of sleeves In rounded
invented point. The lower half Of the cuff
Is of scarlet cloth crossed diagonally from
the inside to the out every quarter inch
as Is the waistcoat-with soutache
The hat to be worn with 1t Is rather
large. soft dark blue felt with unfinished
edge. The blue >satin-covered wire shaping
| 1t Is set around the brim near the crown,
and a second midway from that to the
brfm's edge. The soft. rather low crown
| Is had scarf Of blue panne velvet. At
the right front Is large breast and head.
with two long tails or wings-these made
things are sometimes indescribable. The
head II scarlet with . black beak and the