Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-08-19

may De USED Tor trimming the
X
One of the most important sensations in
the realm of headgear is undoubtedly the
huge empire hat. which IS carrying all be-
fore it. For weddings and smart functions
where touch of the picturesque Is permits
sibIe a hat Of this kind, with a crown of
lace or muslin and wide mushroom brim OF
fine straw, has enjoyed an unparalleled sue
cess and many women have drawn upon
their ancestress' portraits for their ideas
in the realm of headgear, only .modlfylng
them sufficiently to suit the less extreme
taste Of today. Full soft crowns represent
by far the most popular style, but In some
cases the hats are entirely composed OF
Powered muslin, drawn and gauged ana
trimmed with little ruches of Valenciennes
lace, and these bear quaint resempiahce
to large lampshades of an ornate deScrlp-
ton. A hat OF this kind is usually trimmed
with one immense plume, caught with
mammoth rose or chou OF sort riDpon' wills
in some cases old-fashioned RIBBON pat
termed with tiny detached moss rosebuds or
sprays Of flowers Is twisted round the
crown and tied in a bow on one side.
cluster of feather tips being introduced I'M
der the brim.
most popular, crinoline hats In lovely
powder tones Of brown and cinnamon
being trimmed with three or four large
shaded mauve ostrich feathers. while
full crown Of brown tulle. and Is wreatneo
with mauve convolvuli, the cache-peigne be-
ing composed of brown tulle and loops
of brown velvet ribbon.
Pale grey and cerise Is another very at
tractiye combination in the realm of MILL
merry and q pretty example of headgear is
represented by "cloche' hat of drawn
smoke-gray chiffon trimmed with a large
plume of shaded gray and white marabout,
caught in the center of the front with a
butterfly bow of cerise velvet, the velvet
being repeated very effectively on the ban
deau at the back. For the palmer hats Of
the moment the curious brims which are
very wide on either side and very narrow
In front and at the back still rule the
taste of the modern elegante, but these
are by no means becoming to the majority
of women. while the amount of shade
they afford to the eyes Is so inadequate
that their reign Is hardly likely to be
a very extended one. A somewhat tenta-
tive revival Of the popularity Of the Pan
ANA hat for women has taken place, the
hats In question being trimmed with spot
ted scarves In japanese or oriental de-
signs
for yachting costumes. the bolero being
high in favor. Sailor collars are no long
er much worn, but are seen In some cases.
The most popular fashion is that of the roll
vers, the open coat revealing a glimpse Of
a neat waistcoat underneath. With blue
serge. scarlet and white trimmings are
most frequently employed. while the combi-
nation OF narrow gold and black braid
makes a very effective finish
Another popular form OF coat is the
short semi-empire jacket. the tiny basque
OF which reaches to the waistline. This
is carried out in rough navy serge. the coat
being arranged in pleats back and front
and caught with stitched straps.
Yachting headgear is of more varied
description this year than last. Burnt and
sulphur straws are much to be seen, while
white wings as trimming are ubiquitous
Linen hats are likewise In vogue. and the
familiar yachting cap has by no means
abdicated its place.
A high black or black and white demi-
toilette is invaluable for sojourn on a
yacht A supply of ribbons, fchus. flowers
and two or three different colored centuries
can be made to transform the costume
sufficiently SO that 1t Is scarcely recognf-
Fable The same expedients are recon-
mendable In the case of the all-white gown
or blouse, to which the addition OF a little
lace bolero will prove invaluable.