davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23
Oriental Carpets.
n Worlds Events Magazine

From Worlds Events Magazine.
There has of recent years been a very
noticeable decline in the importation of car
pets from Smyrna into the United States,
an eastern traveller recently said. This is
due in large part to the fad for the So
called antique goods class of rugs and
carpets manufactured in Persia and Mesopo-
tamia and sold in Constantinople. AS rule
they are antique only in name. Rugs of
such gardy colors that they would be I'M
salable are treated with acids. which tone
down the colors and give a superficial ap-
pearance of age. Most of them also con-
tain a good proportion Of cotton
''The Smyrna product is far more reliable.
The most primitive methods CT weaving are
still in use, looms almost invariably being
worked by women and girls 1t is not" I'M
usual to see girl under ten sitting by her
mothers SIDE helping to tie the knots. BY
womanhood they are so expert and rapid
that the eye cannot follow the movements
of their hands. Few ever earn more than
80 or 40 cents a day. however, and though
the crude looms entirely of wood. are not
expensive they are not always owned by
the operators. Sometimes a man will own
fifty or more -ioouls;. wing the sweavers so
murh yard or renting the loom at a fixed
price. 1870
J. ..Forty-five thousand.er would pay
for the present annual of Smyrna
! rugs and carpets into the tied States"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23
Newest OF Ties in
Plaids AMI Stripes

- RAVATS and ties are now exceedingly
chic and becoming. The most fash
~ ionable collar of the moment is the
high turnover Bat the newest fea-
ture is not so much the collar as the tie.
Ties in every shade and design OF plaids
and stripes are seen at all the fashionable
shops The ties are made to fit the collars
and to accord with their style to large
extent.
With an embroidered collar, high turn
over, were shown bows of accordion pleated
null and fine linen. These were plain
white or polka dotted in black and colors.
These bows were also made of three pieces
of lawn accordion pleated and trimmed with
lace, bound together by a knot in the CEN
ter.
The white embroidered collars in linen
are also worn with very large made-up
bows of Roman striped silk, with four-in-
hands of the Roman silk and Scotch plaids
and with quaint small bows of narrow
striped ribbon made with four loops, no
ends and two knots.
There are also pleated satin stocks of
white with the lower part of plaid or striped
silk ending in a four-in- hand or Windsor
tie. Other pleated white satin stocks have
the lower part of plaid silk ending in a
fat pair of crossed ends in front Again
the plaid silk is used for the upper part
of the stock and the lower part is-made up
of plain silk, with the crossed tabs or a
inland In front.
There are also bows made of brocaded
silk, with straight loops and butterfly ends.
These are medium size and quite stocky in
effect THE white satin stocks .have loops
OF narrow ribbon velvet through which the
sfour-in-hand tie is passed
Quaint new collars are the tUrr overs.
which have narrow fiutea border all
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23

sign Fortunately there are so many de-
Signs, that it is possible for everybody
taste to be satisfied and at the same tine
for a lot of originality to be displayed.
| The materials are of eveFyt hing that can
be imagined, in fact. there does not seem
| to be any 'cut and dried law as to what
| shall be used. There are silks and satins
| and velvets ard CLOTH and FUR ana lace
| and chiffon. and among them all are most
| wonderful coor:ngs and most beautiful de-
| signs and often three or four different ma
| terals are combined. Then there is a great
variety of shapes to choose from. There
| is long. half-fittng loose coat that is eX-
tremey smart and graceful with It's full
back and its wide hanging sleeves This IN
plain material of the richest description is
almost invariably becoming to the hgure,
while the handsomest of fur collars sets II
off to great advantage. Then. there is the
loose wide wrap, that is more of cloak
than a coat. bordered with embroidery or
fur or lined throughout with fur. 1t is
| like wide circular cape, one end OF which
can be thrown over the shoulders, and often
there is a hood attached to 1t. 1t Is de-
| cidedly picturesque and graceful, but eX-
| tremely difficult to make, and yet so becom-
| ing that it is not marvellous it is popu-
lar style.
More and more are fur garments Of every
description desired by the fashionable wom-
| an In this climate, in fact, in all climates
the winter season has many days when fur
| is a necessity to comfort, ana especlany
| in any wrap that is to be worn over an
evening gown. There is no hard and liked
rule as to whether the fur shall be ON the
inside or outside of the garment; that now
| is merely a matter of taste. An erm,ne
| coat of great value can be trimmed with
| the handsomest of lace and lined through
out with white velvet, matters may be
reversed, and a coat of white velvet may
be lined with ermine and have merely
jabot of lace.
The same rule applies to all kinds of fur;
it can be worn as a lining to cloth or vel
vet or lace or it can be put outside. While
the other materials will then serve as
| lining Again it is the individual taste that
decides the question. and if the garment
possesses the desired warmth and at the
same time looks smart, no fau!t can pc
found In this matter of being warmly
clothed the fashion has greatly changed
of late years. and it is now apparently
requisite to be warmly clad at all times:
II is now considered questionable as well
| as unbecom:ng to look cold-another proof
| that tie question of dress is becoming
| more of a science than ever.
The pointed bertha on the evening gown
Is again in style and the empire models
are oftener made in this design than in
the fat embroidery. The wide dropping
pieces. over the tops OF the sleeves can
be best attained by these fichus, Tor they
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23

are cut that they form the top OF the
sleeve. leaving Only necessary a puff OF lace
or net. These fchUs finished at the
back either with three small bows and tiny
rhinestone buckles or with long streamers
of ribbon that fall to the hem OF the skirt
Often, too the r.bIon is put on to give the
empire line by being brought from the front
of the waist TO the back Of the shoulders.
Again the ribbon is most clevery adjusted
so that in front there are two widths that
are put together in folds ana fastened with
an effective rhinestone button. and then
the ribbon goes over the shoulders where
ii is caught together crossed and fast
ened with the same buttons or buckles.
Plain ribbons and those of satin velvet
the smarteSt. The flower designs are
more associated with summer gowns, and
although there is not such marked diff
ference between summer and winter styles
as there was few years ago, il is OBJ
Egatory that there should be some points
that dissmilar.
The spangled nets and laces are charm
ingly attractive this winter and have appar
entity taken a new lease of life, they are
In constant demand for ball gowns. They
are made up more deliberately than ever,
and the Innings often cost as much as the
gowns themselves. A face gown which has
only the border embroidered or spangied
will be made over 4 lining of spangled net
no pattern net, but simply the spangled eff
be made ever a lace skirt. and the pattern
of the lace blends IN ndescribably harmo-
NOUS effect with the net. The cloth of gold
or silver Things under the pale colored
chiffons give a sheen that is impossible to
describe or secure in material itself. Hand
painted nets and chiffoRs show off to great
est advantage against such n background,
attaining thereby depth of coloring that
the silk or satin could not possibly give.
Chiffon panne and mirror velvet are heav-
Ter fabrics than are generally associated
with TIE idea of ball gowns. but they are
none the less immensely fashionable at the
moment; the Colorings are charming and
apparently unlimited in variety, so that it
Is possible to have a wide choice The pale
shades of pink, blue, mauve and yellow
and the bertha of satin are embroidered in
flowers OF the same color or some direct
contrast There are two or three new
shades Of yellow that are popular this sea-
SON and that are most becoming, one rea-
son being the depth and warmth of tone;
this regularity is Shown to the best ad-
vantage in the velvet, neither satin nor silk
giving at all the same effect. The white
panne or chiffon yelyets also possess this
attra elton. for the material apparently at
tracts 10 itself strange lights and shadows
that are most artistic For the opera or
for any formal entertainment evening
gowns of the velvet are consequently most
effective
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23
Growth of the Cocoa Habit.

From the Cent Per. Cent Magazine.
1t doesn't seem long time since Ruther-
ford B. Hayes was President. and yet with
in that short range Of time the use of cocoa
In one form or another has increased In
the United States 1900 per cent, and the
consumption of cocoa and chocolate by
Americans has more than doubled in five
years.
Less than FIVE years ago the United States
held only fifth place as manufacturer OF
cocoa and chocolate, England Germany.
Holland and France taking precedence in
about the order named. Today we hold
first place. both as manufacturers and con-
sumers of cocoa and chocolate by COM
Portable margin. and are increasing our
lead SO rapidly that it is with the utmost
difficulty that the American manufacturers
are able to meet the demands upon them
In 1905 the United States consumed nearly
100000 bags OF cocoa, or about one-third
of the worlds crop.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23

different shade makes the petals, which are
large-sssd tdll
They are made of one piece of ribbon,
doubled over so as to make a succession of
pointed petals all around the pin cushion.
The effect is very charming. A most effec-
tive cushion of this sort had a brown satin
center and yellow satin petals. Another
cushion had pale blue petals and yellow
center. White petals are very pretty with
yellow centers. Bright red looks we'll with
brown cente-s or with another shade of red.
Pink looks well with red center.
Silk sewing bags, most elaborate and
handsome, are made of dark Powered silk
for the central portion of the bag, with
plain satin ends and velvet ribbon trim
mings. These bags are of the sort which
open at the top on rings. The rings are
bound with the plain satin. Another way
to make an attractive work bag Is to buy
one of the small embroidered caps which
are known in Chinese shops mandarin
caps. Then get a small! round basket which
will fit into the cap. This is for the bot
tom of the bag. The upper portion of the
bag is made of plain satin or of Chinese
silk TO accord with the design of the cap.
Gather it at the top with Chinese ribbons
This does not take long to make if one is
fortunate enough to be able to secure the
materials. But as this cannot be readily
done in mCst ci~eS ii can hardly be called
a last moment Eift.
A very easily made gift, however is a
pin case of lowered ribbon and eidcrdown.
The ribbon, If you wish to escape the task
OF scanning, should be about eight inches
wide and twelve long. Cut the elder cloth
to fit. The color should be white or if a
dark Powered silk is usel it may be of a
pale tint. Turn the ribbon in over the
eiderdown about quarter inch and cat
stitch. Cut the corners of the elder cloth
of and turn in the lowered silk in a point
and cat stitch. The pins should be of all
sizes and colors and placed in attractive
designs in the elder cloth. Narrow ribbons
are fastened to the case at one end SO that
it may be rolled up and tied.
A neat little sewing bag may be easily
made, preferably of aadark silk. foulard
India any soft silk. Cut a round paste
board for the bottom and cover on both
sides You may stitch the cover on the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23

about an inch in diameter. The ribbon
is gathered at the bottom of each tube and
orerhanded up the sides. AT the top it is
turned in and but; onholed. This makes a
case in which the tube fits snugly. The
three tubes. when they have been covered
with the ribbon. are fastened together at
the tCp by lacking the ribbon edges to-
gethe-. Narrow ribbons are attached for
hanging the hatpiH holders to the dressing
table.
Hairpin cushions are also in favor for
Christmas fancy work. These are made
either square or round and fairly good
sized square box of pasteboard is COW
cred over the top with open white canvas
having holes suitable for inserting the hair
pins. The net or canvas should be firm,
as the wear on such cushion would other
wise cause it to sag in. The sides are COW
ever with Powered silk. Four little TRAN
gular cushions made of the lowered 81
are attached to the sides of the cushion in
such Il manner as to make the top look as
II IL were diamond placed on a square.
The lcng side of the triangular cushions is
attached to the top of the box and the right
angle point hangs down. One of these cush-
ions is used for plain pins, one for fancy
large safety pins.
Boxes for the dressing table, for gloves
handkerchiefs, collars, etc, are all most
attractive when covered with handsome
silk. The bottom. sides and lid of the boxes
are covered with the silk put plain and
overhanded at the edges. The top of the
lid frequently has the silk gathered across
it, The sides of the boxes are overhanded
to the bottom and the corners are made by
lacing narrow plain colored ribbons through
eyelet holes. The lid is attached to the box
in tho same manner.
Charming flower pin cushions are among
the new fancfes and they are not difficult
nor do they require much time in the ma Il
ing. The center of the flower. which is in
the shape of n biack-eyed susan, is the pin
cushion. This is made very round and
hard and covered with satin. Satin of .
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23

around There are cuffs TO match these.
Some of them are all white but many have
a band of pale blue or pale pink all around
the edge of the hutirS.
There are also bows of lace accordion
pleated and having six ends and no loops.
There are other craVats, which. for want
of a better word, one must call tabs They
are Simply pieces Of pleated muslin, SILK
or what-not. narrow at the top, where they
fold in under the cellar and widening to-
ward the bottom. They fall straight from
the collar and are edged with lace.
An effective bow for wear with turn
over collar is made OF three shades of silk,
pieated and knottei in the middle. The
lightest shade is on top and the darkest
next the throat.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23

4 this time of the year. when the
iss.'" r '"s dances Rs .o sss' sas
Il y well started, there is more de-
mand if possible, than at any
other time of year for new models in even
Ing gowns while opera wraps are a ne
cessity. 1t would seem as though there
could not be any very marked change In
style In the evening gowns for winter or
summer as any member of the smart set
we'll understands To begin with, unless
for a season at Newport, summer evening
gowns are not so elaborate in detail as
those intended for the winter, when enter
tainments are of more formal order, and
when the opera. dinners and private dance
afford an excellent opportunity for the dis
play of superb gowns, when rich laces and
brocades and the handsomsst of jewels are
required and shown off at the greatest pos
sible advantage.
There has been a great deal of discussion
as to whether the empire style would be
adopted. one two of the leading houses
in Paris have most consistently continued
to bring forward gowns made after this
model insisting that in time the public
would be educated to the beauties of it.
1t has been hard struggle to convince the
general public, but nevertheless the strug-
gle has not been in vain. for more and
more is this marked style of dress becom-
ing popular, and now it is no longer so
modified. although it never has been and
never Will be adopted in its perfection
that is, in exact copy of the gowns that
were worn at the time of the first empire.
There are few women who are so formed
that they look we'll N the unadu!terated
empire style. and consequently there
must needs be the mobilization in lines
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23

are more or less original not stiff and con-
sentative, but more the Powered order.
There are superb trimmings of passemen-
tere or jeweled or beaded nets and laces.
These trim satins effectively, but are quite
as expensive the embroidery on the
satin, and somehow do not seem to be SO
smart, although of course this is merely
a matter of choice, and certainly to find
any fault with such trimmings as are now
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23

machine to save time. The upper portion
of the bag is made double half way up, the
half portion being on the inside. From
the bottom to the top of this half lining
the bag is stitched up at regular spaces,
thus forming a lot of little pockets on the
inside. These pockets are neatly hemmed
around the top and when drawing rubber
is put in around the top the bag is complete.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23

to be had would be nothing short of carp
ing criticism.
The combination of coloring carried
out in trimmings and materials, is this year
smost effective and generally most attrac-
tive. The soft clnging nets, chiffons or
gauzes that are finished at the hem with
down the back, afford an opportunity for
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23

a most harmonious blending of colors, as
the embroideries on the velvet are in the
same tone the material of the gown,
only a shade or two darker. This detail
adds immensely to the beauty of the gown,
and ii care is taken that becoming color
is chosen it is difficult to imagine anything
whole thing.
Opera wraps this year are varied in de-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23

and trimmings to make the style becoming
and smart, but, as has been seen, the
dressmakers have conquered the first DIFF
fculties and now the model is an extremely
smart and attractive one. 1t is made up
in all materials-in satin, soft finished silks,
chiffon velvet and all the hundred and one
thin materials as WELL Occasionally the
idea is carried out by the trimming instead
of in the material Long streamers of rib
bon velvet tulle starting from the
shoulders and falling to the hem of the
gown give the same lines. provided that the
gown itself is cut correctly at the side and
back. No longer is it considered requisite
to have the heavy band Of embroidery
across the bust with frills or lace, but
there are berthas and f1chus of net and tulle
that are put on, just as though the waists
were the same as when the skirt and waists
We're the fashion, instead of the empire or
princess, which has the skirt and waist in
one.
Satin is a favorite material this winter
for evening gowns, both for young girls
and for older women. 1t is vastly more
practical for dancing gown than are the
thinner materials that SO soon become torn
and bedraggled. satin gown will last far
longer than one of net or tulle or even of
chiffon, that much-enduring material Skirts
are not trimmed, but are plain, as a rule,
excepting for the way in which they are
made This sounds rather complicated in
the description, but there are many cores
panels let in or there bands of the
same put on in folds or curved lines, or
in such fashion as to form a trimming of
the material itself.
The heavier satins are often richly en-
broidered with paillettes of silver gold or
iridescent beads. Embroidery is worked
on the satin Itself, and the designs
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23

derland. There are huge elephants, enor-
nous donkeys, swans, peacocks and hosts
OF other wooden animals. They all have
very expressive eyes. but their bodies are
apt to be lacking in sinuosity.
Among the other new toys that will ap
pear in Mr.. Santa's pack are the most re-
markable milk delivery wagons and the
most complete and astounding circus
arenas, with performing acrobats, tum-
bling clowns, trick donkeys and ringmas-
terS
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23
Nevelfst.a Inspiration.

From the zyieasa 44se,osist,ciie -B.setttr.
Maxim 9ecly, wac Is writing a book at
Naples: ssvesuvis,s Is the best inspiration
for painting <Ac ftassiaa eruption.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23
Some Easily Made
Last-Moment GIFTS

WI It'll only day more between US and
w Christmas there doesn't seem much
time for making gifts, and yet there
are some friends to whom it Is impossible
TO give any but handmade gifts, so that
one is often grateful for last moment sug-
gestion of something desirable and yet
easily and quickly made
Most attractive Christmas gifts for wo-
men are being made Of Powered silk. In
deed, the lowered and plaid ribbons and
silks are this year irresistib.y attractive
TO women who are doing Christmas fancy
work.
A very attractive little gift that takes all
most no time in the making is 10Th useful
and ornamental 1t is hair receiver or
small catch-all, made to hang at the side
of the dressing table. 1t is simply a small
glass bowl rounding in at the top covered
with Powered ribbon. The bowl should be
perfectly round So. that the silk will set
prettily. ribbon is chosen wide enough
TO cover the bowl entirely and come above
the top about two inches. the ribbon put
around the bowl and gathered in at the
bottom II should not be made too full
A gathering string is run around the top
of the bowl so as TO make the ribbon fall
In a pretty ruffle above 1t. Narrow rib
bons are sewed at the sides and finished in
loops and ends for hanging the bowl from
the dressing table.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23

Ribbons having a decoration of tiny flow
ers In stripes down the center are effec-
q lively used for covering hatpin holders.
The holders are made of three glass tubes.
closed at one end. The ribbons should be
wide enough to cover the glass tubes, which
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-12-23

T this time OF the year, when the
season for dances begins, and, in
fact, when the social season Is
. well started, there is more de-
The free lance. (Fredericksburg, Va.) 1885-1926, 1906-10-25
STRANGER FOUND UNCONSCIOUS
SAWS Ne Is Son Of Col. Mansfield Of the U. S.
Infantry.

Monday afternoon about seven q
Young man was found wandering about
Hanover street. near the residence oil MT.
AZ II Hurkamp. After trying to give
acme account OF himself he lapsed into
Inconsistencies and was conveyed to
the hospital by Drs. Chewing and Bar
new. who had been lastily summoned.
After restoratives had been applied, he
stated that his name was j. u. Mans
field. from Pinehurst, n. c., and that he
was returningfr from Princeton University,
where he had failed in entrance examlna-
tons. He had letter OF Introduction
To the Rev. DR.. Forsyth, OF St Paufs
church, Richmond, from the son OF the
last named gentleman, and stated that
he had been a sailor on the u. 5. Gun
boat Bennington when the latter was
blown up at San Diego, Cal, July u,
1908, and had alarge section of his skull
removed; as the result, being subject to
fits of uncOnsciOusness. Hisfriends have
been informed, and he is resting comfort
ably at the hospital.
He says he is son OF Col. +. W. Mans
6eld. commander of the 42nd u. s. In
fantry. now on duty in the Philippines;
chat he stopped over here to meet an old
college friend, Harold Harding, who he
was told resided here, and that his
r,other and sisters are now in Pinehurst,
N n Sergeant Chichester telegraphed
70 Robert Forsyth and received a reply,
stating that Mansfield had money in
watch pocket and ticket to Richmond.
There was not the least indication oil his
having been under the influence OF liquor.