The Washington herald., 1906-12-16
Opening of Season Shows
Diversity in Costumes.
ALL ARE VERY ELABORATE
Mrs. Roosevelt Has nm Attractive
Toilet of Smoked-coIOred Chiffon
Velvet - baroness HengeImueIIer
Hns Two striking Dresses Made
Princess-GOssip of Fashions.

Edleds al SORTS OF gowns diS lNduS I've
their lucky owners. and so far no two
seem to be along the same model. The
latter fact assumes special interest IN
Washington. when it is remembered that
three prominent women met at a certain
luncheon garbed in idenucally the same
clothes, although coming from widely diff
ferent parts of the country, and each hav-
ing selected and paid for an exclusive inn
portation.
The same season two famous debu-
tantes. who are now Mrs. Nicholas Long
worth and Nine. Riano, respectively, sur
prised each other and their friends by ap-
pearing In beautiful white cloth and lace
gowns that differed In no particular what
ever except In buttons: while the young
wife Of a prominent Representative. the
daughter of a Senator and a young ma
tron Of resident society were continually
meeting each other in the same blue vel
vet visiting costumes, which each sup
posed TO have been made for her own par
tieular style and purse.
One feature this seasons gowns have In
common is that they are all mostly elabo-
rate. There are no plain gowns of any
description, from the short skirt and pony
jacket in much-braided cheviot, TO the
dinner and ball toilets of satin, silk, or
tulle. The nearest any one can come TO
the untrimmed skirt with its long grace
fui lines. once so popular for rich dinner
gowns. is IN velvet, which Is occasionally
seen Untrimmed IN that case the mate
rial must be Of the richest and heaviest
weave, and usually worn with handsome
jewels. while the lace used on the coTsage
and sleeves is often valuable enough TO
make this plain toilet more expensive
than the most elaborate creations of Paris
or Vienna.
Mrs. Roosevelt, although exempt from
visiting. has one of the newest and hand
soonest afternoon toilets of the year.
which she wears TO afternoon musicals
or for an occasional church ceremony.
This is a trained gown Of smoke-eolored
chiffon velvet, the skirt trimmed about
its lower edge with an inch-deep band OF
the velvet put on in long narrow curves.
the trimming being gathered on either
edge and appliqued. The bodice is close
fitting and plain in the back, with the
front IN jacket effect with narrow waist
coat Of heavy lace
With this Mrs. Roosevelt wears very
handsome large hat, also OF smoke-cOloTed
velvet, with crown and brim in severely
plain lines. the crown probably four inches
IN height. and the brim wider in front
than in back The hat Is conspicuous for
the three very handsome ostrich plumes
which, without being of the pronounced
weeping willow style introduced this sea-
son. are almost uncurled. and show sew
eral shades of gray and brown. The first
plume starts under a choue Of velvet al
most in the middle Of the front. and ex-
tends across the crown and back. while
two others fall so low on the neck as To
completely cover the back Of the head. A
sable stole and large muff are worn with
this. as we'll as with the several smart
cloth suits Mrs. Roosevelt uses for church
and afternoon walks.
Mrs. Nicholas LongwOrth IS wearing a
Ileather-colored broadcloth suit made with
short skirt laid in Dleats, and untrimmed,
save by self-cOlored braid put around
the skirt without curves or fancy motifs
! The pony jacket is quite deliberately
braided. however. and finished by a mar
row scarlet waistcoat. With this she
wears large soft-lined tOque Of rich
brown mink, turned up on the left side
with marabou feathers, which cover the
side Of the hat and fall almost to the neck
in the back. A large muff of the same
/ fur as the toque is used
/ At the reception in honor of the mem
1 bers of the Diplomatic Corps on Wednes-
i afternoon. Mrs Longworth wore a
vely girlish gown Of white point d'esprit
on a foundation Of pink taffeta The skirt
which touched the floor all around, but
/ had no train. was made with considerable
! fUIlness about the waist, and was covered
1 by three deep ruffies Of graduated depth
which went completely around. The
bodice was made with a becoming full
/ ness across the front, and finished by a
I deep transparent yoke and stock of lace
/ The sleeves were three-quarter length, Of
/ the point d'esprit and lace, without the
interlining Of pink.
| A dainty afternoon gown IN which the
! Baroness Hengelmulier received her
/ friends just before leaving for her visit
to New York, is a light green voIle, made
/ princess and absolutely close-ftting, the
upper part Of the gown losing itself in a
/ skirt of eleven cores, ending in a short
/ train. Each seam was strapped its en-
/ tire length by a narrow band of taffsta
/ OF the same shade. This taffeta decora-
/ ton also appeared on each gore in Il
series OF curves that formed a graceful,
/ but conventional design, extending flcm
three inches above the hem to the knees.
/ The top Of the gown was of all-over lace,
with straps Of taffeta coming across the
shoulders from the back, and ending in
tabs, which fell loose from the corsage
/ line In front. These tabs, which wideaed
/ gradually from one to two inches, were
/ finished in a point, and decorated for five
or six inches by lace appliques. The lace
sleeves were made Withi series Of three
pufs held by the narrow taffeta bands
which decorated the skirt, and ended in
/ deep rutfies OF Brussels point.
Another princess gown of the Baroness
Hengelmuller's is a street costume Of
/ lightweight dark blue broadcloth. the
/ garment being made in inch wide pleats
( from the shoulders, halfway down The
| skirt. The cloth is cut out on the under
| side, 50 adds very little, if any, to The
slender figure Of its weaTer. The bottom of
the skirt is trimmed with a single band
Of blue velvet four inches deep, which
/ goes straight around. A deep V of Irish
/ crochet lace finishes the top. the point of
/ the V coming nearly to the waist line in
( front, but in the back going of to a
straight collar three inches deep. The
gown opens in front and is closed by
three large, fiat, velvet-covered buttons,
the front being slightly diagonal, start
| ing from the left side of the lace V The
| HIGH stock cnIiar is of the Irish Incn