Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-07-29

own houses by seamstress who charges
modest sum per day Tor ner iaoors-
xx
A simple little tussore costume has
round length slcirt with six side piaits Ia
the eenter front. three turning from each
side toward the center. These are released
at the knee line The sides cut cireu-
lar. and In the back are four overlapping
side plaits. two on each side turning to-
ward the center and Invisible save from
underneath. The six-inch hem has two
rows of machine stitching half inch apart
in self color around the top.
The little coat il made almost tight. and
is a cutaway with skirts The side fronts
do not meet, even when pulled toward each
other. The collar Is simple coat af-
fair in velvet a darker shade Of blue than
the silk. Underarm seams at the coat
there and on each side of the fronts. Just
above, at and below the waistline. are large
cabochons covered with the blue silk ana
embroidered in blue.
The sleeves are moderately large coat
sleeves, at least they are built on coat
sleeve lines. but end just below the elbows
with turned-back faTing cuffs OF velvet.
Each sleeve shows six half-inch tucks at
the inside seam between elbows and shout
der seams. and these extend TO the side
center. giving fullness at the back
A hat to be worn with this is white chip
with the crown entirely of lilies OF the
valley and their foliage. and having two
long. sharp black quilts thrust through the
left side. the ends projecting out as lar as
the front brim and those at the back slant
ing upward. A simple embroidered white
batiste blouse with elbow sleeves goes with
1t, and long white glace gloves
simple muslin, rather heavier than or
candle and having a pale green ground
strewn isparingly with black designs the
size and shape of robins eggs, has skirt
with a gathered top, gored to hang full at
the bottom, where 1t touches the floor,
and trimmed with ruffies OF the material
edged with narrow yalenciennes lace.
At the bottom of the skirt there is
straight rufie eight inches wide with an
inch-wide heading. The ruffie is shirred
twice at the top half inch apart. An men
wide valenciennes edging finishes the bot
tom, and a half-inch edging the top. AT
the knees there are four bias ruies, each
an inch and half wide. each edged with
half-inch edging and each ruffie an inch
from the one next It. These ruffies formed
curving lines around the skirt.
The bodice Is suTplee in both back
and front and is tight under the arms
Valeneiennes edges the opening around the
top and extends down the overlapping SIDE
of each surplice, forming a ruffie effect A
guirnpe of Vaienciennes with medallions or
Irish crochet. fills In the top. The sleeves
are full single pufYs below the elbows, ana
from each elbow depends slx-inch circu-
lar rufffe of the muslin, edged with a tiny
ruffle of Valenciennes; on this circular
ruffle is set two one-inch bias ruffies or the
muslin, edged with quarterback Valen-
ciennes. One of these is set back half
inch from the edge and the other Is an
Inch above It. The girdle is white liberty
satin ribbon, with long ends down the
back.
A heavy white linen frock has circular
top that extends to the knee line. and to
this is joined another circular section by
a band of heavy white wash lace an inch
and a half wide. At intervals OF twenty
inches along the upper line Of this lower
circular piece three-cornered insertions of
Irish crochet are let in, one edge joining
the insertion. There is a deep hem at the
bottom. s.she coat is very odd. 1t has a
back made Of one straight piece, but just
below the shoulders in the back its full
ness is gathered in, and two shallow in
ward turning plaNs go to the end OF the
coat skirt, and each plat is held down by
a dozen or more white buttons. Where 1t
Is gathered there Is large chow or rosette
of white faille ribbon Each front Is also
of one straight section, and these Joint the
back extension under the arms. At the
waist line the sections separate and both the
back and the front are cut back to show
an ineh-wide cross section at the top,
and this psidens to several inches below the
waist line. This narrow. inverted battle
ment effect Is emphasized by an inch-wide
insertion of heavy lace matching that IN
the jupe. This insertions goes all the way
around the coat. up the slashed sides. and
across the battlemelt top. In each corner
of these coat skirts there is also a TRAN
guar shaped piece of lace like those in the
tupe. only smaller. and set in in the same
way, with. however, the bottom instead of
the top edges joining the insertion.
The coat has collar. The lace inser-
ton Is set back an inch and q half from
the edge. which Is finished by facing
reaching the insertion The fronts hang
straight. the upper edges being slightly
rounded ct the top.
The sleeves end at the elbow and are IN
full. circular skirt effect smooth at the top
and fiaring very much to the elbows where
they terminate. These sleeves are slashed
twice in the same way that the coat skirts
are and form three sections The inner
Insertion is used across the ends and up
the sla she's. These sleeves are tackled in
visibly to white muslin undersleeves or lin
ings shaped like the sleeves and having
two-inch ruffies of valenciennes attached to