The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1906-07-01

results for less money taan they do in
buying ready made blouses: but. the
ready made models of the finer type
are lovely enough this season to please
even the most fastidious, and whether
or not there is a slight difference In
the cost of the pattern made at home
and the hand made blouse bought ready
made. the latter certainly saves much
trouble and often has delightful little
touches which are lacking on the pat
tern blouse made up by an ordinary
seamstress.
One blouse suggested is certainly
beautiful. 1t is formed of bands OF
the lace running from collar TO the
waist line. forming cross bands at the
yoke. the sleeves trimmed with the set
bands of valenciennes and finished be-
low TIE elbow with double frill of lace,
When embroidery is the principal
feature of the orEamentatiOn valencfen-
mes is often the only lace associated
with il, or, perhaps Cluny is the one
lace chosen Elbow sleeves are upon
nine-tenths of the aress blOuses. but
usually come below the elbow, ending
i'm a close fitting band or little frills,
and if they end above the point of the
elbow. deeper frills cover the elbow.
| The blouse even at its best is only in
| formal or demi-tOilette, and sleeves Tor
such wear so say the French authorl-
| ties. should cover the elbow point. Very
| little blouse effect is allowed to the
modish separate waist, though the name
blouse is retained for convenience sake,
but a comfortable looseness must be
| preserved above the girdle which con-
! fines the blouse where ii once fell loose
! ly over a narrow waist band. Have the
| girdle we'll fitting and snug but do not
make the mistake made by many Wo-
men who, reading that the blouse is
out, have drawn their separate bodies
| into tight and unbecoming lines.
The folded girdle Of silk or satin or
GOLD or silver tissue is as popular as
| ever, and girdles of lace, deep-pOinted
and perfectly fitting, appear upon some
| of the sheer blouses, the lace matching
that used elsewhere in the trimming
of the blouse. In such cases the girdies
is of course. perfectly fitted. boned and
made in thin silk, and the lace ap-
pliqued on and shaped, as one shapes a
lace guimpe and collar.
The Importance of Cluny lace in the
field of the lingerie frOCks and blouses
is one of the distinctive notes of the
new season and mos effective results
are obtained by using this heavy lace
in its fine quality upon the
and mulls, as well as upon
heavier linens. The narrow Cluny in
sertions. some of them looking like
heavy crochet handwOrk, joining seams
and used in place of yelling, are par
ticularly favored, and such narrow
Cluny lines set together all the seams
of some bouses which have Cluny mo-
tits insert or heavy embroidered de-
signs for other trimmings.
Another idea is worth a passing
thought. The bodice and sleeves were
made of Cluny-bodlce-fOrme bolerO
effect-and was held snugly to the fig
ure by bands of taffeta ribbon tied in a
bow in front The vest and under
sleeves were of Valenciennes lace. The
fine Swiss and batiste embroideries in
fiOuncing, insertion and motifs, for ap-
| plique or inset use, are employed by
the blouse makers, but the hand en-
broidery upon the blouse itself has TO
a great extent, elboWed the by-the-yard
embroidery aside. English open work
embroideries still retain a hold upon
the popular fOVar but as a rule upon
smartest frocks and blouses. this eye
let work is subordinated to blind en-
brode~y and merely entered into the
| general design in small quantity in
| stead of being as ii was last summer.
the most important item. Heavy motifs
of Irish crochet lace are also introduced
into the trimming of very sheer blouses,
being softened by combinations with
| ValencienneS.
One blouse Is of fine linen medallions
or motifs of fine Irish crochet lace,
strung together with bands of ValeS-
ciennes forming the yoke. Handkerchief
linen of very good quality is the most
durable and satisfactory material for
any sheer blouse, but is, of course, ex-
pensive, and If one wants such fabric
in an expensive blouse one must dis
pense with ornate trimmings. Null OF
| excellent quality is even softer than
linen, and while II will not wash quite
so well, it launders satisfactorily and
gives fair service.