Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-10-07


gown as is worn at the most
formal reception, and this
costume is considered one of
the most important in the outfit One large
reception or a series of lat homes is a nee
essary feature in the winter of every popu-
lar hostess, and even the debutante who Is
brought out at a ball or large theater
party must also undergo the rather doubt
full pleasure of afternoon tea-so 1t was
formerly called. The form of house gown
designed for the hostess or receiving guest
Is a most elaborate affair this season and
IS made up of the finest grade Of silk
chiffon or light cloths and is trimmed with
a quantity of hand embroidery and rich
lace-iu every way one of the most expen-
sive gowns in the outfit.
Among the new models for high neck
house dresses striped silks and chiffons OF
all grades and sorts are destined to be the
most fashionable throughout the coming |
winter. For the last few years checks. |
plads and figured silks have lately crowd |
ed out all striped effects, so that now on |
their return to vogue all stripes have at !
tained at once to widespread popularity. |
While the stripes are seen in satin, silk, |
and even ribbed velvet, still in chiffon, |
mOusseline de sole and in all gauze ma |
terials stripes have found most favor, and |
1t Is in these transparent textures that the |
empire style attains most satisfactory re- |
suits. Ribbon trimming is used a great |
deal with the striped silks and gauzes. II |
in black and white a ribbon can generally
be procured of the desired width. with
stripes just like those on the material, and
these ribbons can often be worked In clev-
erly with the material. II a slight con-
trast Is desired instead of striped satin
ribbon, plain satin velvet Of the width
of the stripe can be used attractively. OF
course. when. an irregular or varied stripe
is being made up, then the ribbon TRIM
ming may be OF any width that Will work
In we'll with the design,
y
Truly charming models have been chosen |
in the majority of striped chiffon and gauze |
gowns, and 1t Is difficult to decide as to |
whether the fine or one-inch stripe makes
up the more attractively. The narrow
stripe is, of course, the more youthful, and
as the debutante Is IN this age determined
to initiate closely all her mothers hand
soonest models she has the fine stripe all
to herself. Black and white is perhaps the
coloring most in demand. followed closely
by ell shades of gray combined with white.
Then there are. of course. all the varieties
of blue, green, red, mauve, pink and even
yellow and white, so that there 10 little
danger OF the black and white stripes being
worn so generally to grow tiresomely
commonplace. While the empire model
with all Its present-day notifications, 10
now fashioned 30 to be often singularly
becoming to one of tall and graceful figure,
the princess gown. or a wide grdle with a
two-piece dress, Is unquestionably more be-
coming to the average woman. There are
many ways OF folding the stripes over each
other about the waist line and hips that
are exceedingly pretty in princess model,
and even here a suggestion of the empire
may be given without any of its unbecom-
Ing lines by simply placing band of satin
ribbon high up on the waist line and fasten-
ing it back and front in a soft rosette or
by slipping the ends through handsome
buckle or ornament
Once again all house gowns are extremely
long, and after the fUll-barred shaped skirt,
just touching the floor all around this
change Is decided relief. Indeed, during
the last few months great revo ution has
been going on among all skirt models,
with the result that now instead of the full
skirt, which, while fitting about the waist
anc hips, flares out widely above the knees.
we have many models that are quite mar
row all the way down TO the knees. Just
above the feet a fare being given by num-
berless little ruffies and ruchings of silk
lace and chiffon.
While the tght-fttng skirt always runs
the risk of being a little exaggerated and
the least exaggerated IS extremely ugly,
still II carefully handled 1t can be most
graceful and will add welcome inches to
the height OF one who is perhaps too short
or, worse yet, too stout. AS a long train
leaves ample space for elaborate trimming,
many OF the skirts are now quite plain,
save just from a few inches above the floor,
where, as said above, ruchngs OF silk or
lace are added, and these are carried down
on the train. Naturally in the embroid-
cred silks and cloths the work Is not only
confined to the lower part of the skirt but
it must be put on In such wSy as to give
long lines whenever possible In thin ma
terials. as chiffons and all kinds of gauze
lace medallions are appliQued on to the
texture and apparently held together by
bands of satin or velvet ribbon. Ribbon
foulards and ribbon embroidery both play
an important role among the trimmings Of
the coming season.
AS ribbon is so fashionable at the mo-
ment 1t Is used in many cases to take the
place OF brocade and taffeta silk. Many Of
the long Louis XVI jackets, for example
are made OF wide fancy ribbon instead OF
the material itself, and. as 1t would be next
to impossible TO initiate in brocaded silk
some OF the handsomest patterns and color
ings to be found in ribbon. the idea can be
carried out with charming effect. Fitted
silk coats over skirts and vests Of lace and
chiffon make a style of dress that cannot
be surpassed for 1t is sure to be service
able and is always smart. Many Of tho