The San Francisco call., 1906-07-15

OF the town season ending with the
Grand Prix are past. smart Parish
enness" realize that they must get
ready for their sojourn in the country
Some argue, very wisely, that social
life is such fatigue that one feels a
natural desire for rest After all the
strain Of the past months, pure coun-
try air, the soothing calmness of
shaded park, cannot but be beneficial
10 their general health, and, as a con-
sequence, TO their beauty.
Others, the coquettes, less prudent
and less rational. resume their ordi-
nary method OF life, simply changing
their field OF action. and whether on
the ''planches" or in the casinos of
Trouville, Dinard. Biarritz or Aix-Ies-
Bains, begin anew to attract attention
by their smart and appropriate dress
ing
On the whole. however. both the rea-
sonabie and the unreasonable woman.
when leaving for their new residences.
feel the necessity of replenishing their
yardrobes. The innumerable trunks
. hring a frown TO the face Of the good
natured husband, who though proud
and happy TO see his wife a queen of
elegance wherever she goes. cannot
help wondering what are the contents
OF 50 many boxes; and the wife, for an
instant regrets the luck Of her Ameri-
can sisters, who, with their large Sara
toga trunks, seem TO carry much less
baggage.
With what then are these mysterious
trunks filed? With many, many beau
tiful things which differ according 10
their various uses Women who wish
70 rest and recuperate necessarily take
simple dresses in linen and lawn
soberly trimmed. and some tailor-nade
costumes which can be beautiful by the
addition Of light-cOlOred blouses, which
make them more dressy.
A charming toilette seen a few days
ago was in white "etamine," strewn
with embroidered dots Of a very bright
shade Of tan. The entire trimming
consisted Of very large openwork
stitching made with thick cotton cord
ing These 'iOurs" formed a yoke
giving a sight of the shoulders. and
were worked in a Greek pattern on the
blousing OF the waist The skirt in
fun gathers. was trimmed at the bot
tom with TWO rows OF the same open-
work, and the dress, very simple but
distinguee, was frightened up by a
wide fat belt OF white linen. embroid-
cred with rich designs in empire green.
A pretty toilette Of tussOre silk dis
a played by one Of the most fashionable
Y 0f Paris tailOrs would be most appro-
pirate TO both sets Of fashionable
women. The skirt was "corselet'
shape The short -Waisted Jacket
reached no further than the middle of
the back and was kept down by two
gold buttons, and opened in front on
a waistcOat Of white pique. which was
trimmed with small whlte-dotted red
foulard; collar and cuffs to match. and
butteSly bow at the upper opening Of
the WaistcOat This combination
looked very chic
Speaking Of the unexpected. must
refer TO such an agreeable surprise as
friends dropping in on a visit a possi-
hility which is likely to become more
and more frequent owing to the vogue
% automobilism. To receive them in
e becoming way some stylish desha-
billes are necessary, and these no
woman really mindful Of her looks will
forget
What costumes can be more graceful
than these beautifully frilled marvels
giving such a stylish touch TO the inti-
macy OF ones homer The most varied
forms and trimmings are employed. but
here are two pretty models.
One consists Of a narrow dress of
pale blue moUsselfne de sole, widening
considerably at the bottom. which is
large and fluffy It is trimmed pro-
fusely half way up with fat tucks
pills 8 Ia religieuse," separated by in
sertions Of Valenciennes lace and puffs
On this dress falls a loose sleeveless
mantle Of ver-threaded gauze, opened
heart-shaped on lace at the neck
Around the large armholes run thick
frillings Of lace, as also all around the
~ urh a 10 fe 7f
at the waist by a good buckle and
black velvet bow.
Another "deshabille" that was shown
20 me seemed 10 me still more lovely
and delightful II is empire style. ia
pink rnousselfne de sole trimmed at the
bottom with ~quiiles" of embroidered
muslin. around which runs a garland
well defined Of Louis XIV bows in satin
ribbon. gathered on one side only The
woke Is formed Of lace and embroidery
and passing through II is pink satin
drapcrv which terminates in the front
By two bows and long ends Under the
yoke is some fine tucking covered by a
garland recalling the one At the bottom
OF the dress; the same trimming is on
the sleeves. finished off with two
hounces Of lace. At the bottom Of this
elegant creation two narrow lace
hounces are kept down by tiny wreaths
OF ribbon. The work OF this dress is
fairylike and ideal.
II IS delightful TO walk out on clear
moonlight nights. but one must not
run the risk OF catching one Of those
horrid colds. so trying TO nerves and
beauty.
The tulle neck ruches are so delicate !
that the night air would be their de-
struction. To avoid this SILK scarfs I
are used, gracefully enveloping the fig i
ure feather boas. easily recurled and 4
renovated. and especially one Of those 4
long oloaks. The large cloth capes with /
their many folds bring back with them
"reminiscences Of the draperies of an /
tiQuity.
Now ] must speak OF q class Of
women who, though frail and delicate 4
in appearance, possess marvellous /
power of endurance which many of
the stronger sex might envy, who have /
no time TO be tired, whose greatest /
pleasure is to change their dress three
or four times q day. just as in Paris /
or at Monte Carlo. At this time Of the I
year they look a little paler, complain /
OF curious nervous troubles and think /
that the best place 10 recruit is a /