Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-24
THE RH|GN|NG MODES
Princess Cut Has Captured
Popular Fancy.
WHITE SATIN BRIDAL ROBE
Using Shawls in Handsome Tea
Gowns.
FEW ODD COATS NOW SEEN
Gowns Of Thin Materials, Having
Jackets Of Their
Ew ODD COATS NOW SEEN
,ciaI Correspondence of The star


would look as IL there are to be more mar
riages than usual. while recent grand we'd
dings have set pace for splendor such as
has never before been equaled In sartorial
annals.
In the majority OF the trousseaux there is
tendency to exploit CONNECTIONS favored
by the most ta1ked-of bride of the season.
Mrs. Nicholas Longworth (nee RoosevelD
The princess model chosen for this much
envied woman's bridal gown has become
the popular cut for the inevitable white
satin wedding robe. The plain satin used
for corselet, sleeves and bodice is, as al
ways, Of the most precious quality, and IL
There 10 much old lace in the brides family
1t Is frequently used in some way at the
front OF the Jupe as well as upon the cor
sage.
The prevailing cut for the neck of the
princess bodice suggests a round or square
decohetage which, however, Is always Hlied
In with a lace guimpe of super1ative beauty,
In point Of sleeves there are also depar-
lures from old traditions, for until very re-
Gently only long-sleeved cuts were possible
for the altar frock, but now sleeves may
be the shortest shoulder puff, though elbow
lengths are more frequent. The prodigious-
Iy long gloves which cover the lower arm
must show unnrunbered wrinkles. Some
recent brides have shown q preference for
ally worn, these permitting an effect of
more fullness to the too thin arms.
Most Popular Of All.
Lastly. the bridal veil. that sweetest Of
all touches to the altar get-up. has like
wise changed. Plain tulle, raw-edged or
hemmed. Is perhaps the most popular veil
material. and. since 1t is the most youthful.
is by far the most enhancing. But many
lace wells are worn of the finest Brussels
net with handsome borders or else all of
lace; though in the latter instance, as the
pattern is dtsdguring, the veil cannot be
WORE over the face.
The arrangement of the veil on the head
is entirely a millinery feat, which ts done
at the last moment by experienced hands.
Whether worn over the face or not, it Is
generally attached to q small wreath or
coronet OF orange blossoms, the tuIle veil
falling much longer than the lace one,
which in the more splendid Instances Is
quite short. A veil of dazzling loneliness
chronfcled by French fashion writers is of
tulle with a Greek border OF silver embroid-
cry.
A Grand Occasion.
A grand European wedding which re-
ceived very nearly as much notice as did
Miss Roosevelt's was that of the Donna
Arietta Doria, daughter OF the Princess
Doria, and granddaughter of the Duchess
of Newcastle. According to the aristocratic
custom in Rome. where this splendid mar
riage was celebrated, the church was hung
with fine old tapestries worked with the
armorial bearings of the two families The
church in question was Sainte-Agnes, which
Is situated as a sort of chapel beside the
magnificent Doria Pamphile Palace, so the
wedding had all the glamour Of an almost
royal function. The beauty OF the bride
was reported as having been set off in re-
splendent fashion by her lovely dress of sill
yer tissue. This was yelled In mousseline de
sole, worked at the bottom Of the skirt TO
considerable depth with the most fragile
silver embroidery. Her veil was of Genoese
point lace, with a tiny thread of silver run
ming delicately along the pattern. The
bouquet carried was Of white Roman roses.
loosely arranged and tied with silver rib
bon. White satin shoes, also worked with
silver completed this dazzling toilet.
A Royal Wedding.
Still another wedding in aristocratio cir
cles Is apt to turn the tide to other prefer
ences-that of the Princess Bna of Bat
tenberg to King Alfonso of Spain. The
Princess Ena is reported by all biographers
to have been very simply brought UP, and
1t is said that though she can look very
regal on occasions, she can also appear the
most unpretentious English maid. The best
Fart OF her trousseau will come from Paris,
and g. number Of the gowns are already
infinitely described, TWO in particular show
the bride colors favored for the moment,
pale gray and blue celeste. which is only
more charming name for baby blue. The
gray dress Is of China crepe and the blue
one of Indian satin, with the lace incrusta-
lions embroidered In blue
In point of color for the travelling gown,
blue is by all Odds for the instant, the ia
vorite choice Mrs Longworth starting the
ball rolling with her blue ciel frock. Cloth
is more frequently used than any other ma
terial for these pale blue creations, which
run largely in model TO corselet skirts, and
very jaunty little Jackets, infinitesimal in
length and bristling with dainty trimmings
of matching braids, silk and velvet quiIlings
and rich embroideries.
In direct contrast TO this jacket fussiness,
the majority of the skirts, which are cir
cular In cut, are trimmed only with bands
of tho cloth put on in ornamental ways.
Tea Gown Effects.
A number of Mrs. Longworth's fancies
have been seized upon. her use of the splen-
did shawIs sent by the Empress of China
giving ideas for similar tea gown effects In
less precious materials. Chinese shawls In
all degrees of beauty and splendor are not
seen on every hand and no mediums could
lend themselves to more graceful effects
than do these radiantly embroidered and
silk fringed squares. One employed in the
Roosevelt trousseau as part of tea gown
was of yellow crepe embroidered magnin-
dragons This was used as sort OF Greek
psplin drapery for dress of yellow China
silk, the head slipping through an opening
IN the center of the shawl, which was
shaped over the shoulders in most grace
full way. Another shawl was reported as
moking pink tea gown In kmono style, an
embroidery of black and white storks mag
nificentiy decking this.
But to return to the more important part
of the brides trousseau. the altar frook
itself and gowns for various occasions with
appropriate hats etc. To quote all the love-
~ things seen and heard of would be i'm
possible, but the pictures shown upon this
page display some OF the most representa-
tive styles.
In the smaller picture a charming altar
frock and negligs from smart Easter
rousseau are shown. The princess bridal
frock il OF yalenciennes all-over lace, with
skirt border and bodice yoke of applied
Irish. The satin princess under the loosely
falling, fimy outside ats the figure closely
and buttons at the back. Hemmed tulle
forms the veil. and orange sprays compose
the flowers used on the corsage and sleeves
This gown is shown without the court train,
which Ii generally made separately and may
be OF entirely different material from the
dress itself
Corn yellow crepe de chine and white lace
are the materials of the very effective neg
iige alongside tfis gown.
Four gowns for as many different uses
ALL