The San Francisco call. [volume] (San Francisco [Calif.]) 1895-1913, 1906-12-02

Figured ch.Roas are IN vogue once
more. but the chirons this year are
FAR Handsome than any seen hitherto
Some have large ailover designs in
many cOlored flowers, all on the soft
est. most delicate tints. with a wide
border OF black and white stripes. over
which the flowers climb in treilis effect
Then there are many chiions that have
only a wide figured border. which II
used for the end OF the skirt. and IS
wide enough 10 make the. low waist
and TO fall in cape effect over a lace
sleeve Often for the evening this
chiffon is made up oyer a pale shade OF
pink. blue. mauye: yellow or green but.
any shade no matter how faint. -
sure 20 take away 2 tribe from design
1t is better to bring Out some one OF
the colors more distinctly by satin
girdle and ribbon trimming or bow
knots placed on both skirt and waist.
while a little band OF the coIored
satin ribbon may. be used 10 finish or
, the sleeve above the lace rufie or
ruche- In pink, blue and pale green
OF some such soft colorings an. exquis-
lite gown may be had OF this new chif-
fOn but in less youthful cOlortngs-
deep purple and mauve with a decided
black and white bOrder-the material
Is equally charming
Occasionally there is TO be seen some
color combination with two shades OF
chiffon. the one laid on over the other.
with a lining OF. still another shade.
but this scheme Of contrast belongs 70
last year. and when contrast is now
desired it is looked for in the trim
frfnxs and ernbrofderies on the dress
Shaded silks and ehifrons are also
worn. but do not seem so much in IA
vor, just now as either the plain or
figured effects Powered silks and
plain .ta-ssta are both 70 a certain ex-
e - HI hut ..
plain satin finished materials are for
tha moment most in favor For dinner
gowns lowered silks are rather
smart but for ball gowns they ara
zusts outciasssd bJ the richer bro
eades. Everything should have satin
arisi this year. even satin crepe de
Cline being preferred to dull tat
fets Many OF the embroidered crepes
are most attractive more especially
tire so-calIed Japanese and Oriental j
goods. although II is 20 be Questioned
whether the majority OF these mate
rails were ever seen IN the Orient
This winter only the longest evening
gowns viii be smart, and even the
debutantes cannot have short dresses.
Whistler OF tulle o. satin, the train
must be Just as io7g as her figure
can stand and fortunately there are
few women TO whom long and gracs-
fi.l train is rot particularly becoming
on the sides the material must hang
quite long. 50 as 20 merge gracefully
into the long sweep OF train The
princess ard empire gowns have 20 a
certain extent done away temporarily
with the girdle. but when belt II
worn or when q gown IL made with
two waists for one skirt, then II may
be OF whatever width Is most becom-
ling. One costume OF allovsr lace had
a decoliete waist Of heavy satin
trimmed with q s1rpIice o. the lace.
and this bodice needed no belt The
satin came well do~~n over the skirt
in a rounded peak IN front and IN ths
back was finished on with large
pearl bead ornament
While quality ranks far ahead OF
quantity in the relative Importance in
the outfit still a certain number OF
evening gowns are necessary and must
be allowed for. Il IS we'll 70 keep the
dinner dresses and ball gowns distinct.
II possible. although there IS very little
rorlccable difference among the models
In the average dinner gown the sleeves
are Just a tribe longer, the decoiletags
somewhat higher and the train nor
cutie SO lorg as FOR a hall gown. but
when necessary the same modal can
serve for either purpose and naturally
give the appearance OF greater variety.