The Pensacola journal. (Pensacola, Fla.) 1898-1985, 1906-10-11

on to the quill at close Intervals rnd
this note is repeated In the steep han.
deau at the side The brim Is narrow
In the back and would be very wide In
deed. In front were 1t not folded back
! upon itself. just for all the world "a
though the wearer had received a sl-o
In the face which spoiled the shape {.
the hat.
Since those uncuried pIumes demand
length and lu1uriousness Of flue TO make
them at all presentabie. IL Is not at all
hkeiy that they will become any too pop
ular just at present, their cost being con.
siderably In excess OF the curled kl7d.
The willow plume is being pushed Ton.
sideraoiy, and here the incurred rip does
not seem so forlorh and bedrnHgied
pretty effect Is oftentimes gained IN TIE
knotting on half way In its length Of
hue OF another color. For example.
long plume In black has cues of
brilliant royal blue knotted on: pale
blues show lavenders and liIacs knotted
through, aud white plumes are mated
with almost every color on the card.
Pipings are making q strong bid for
favor, and one sees them in all sorts Of
new and attractive connections. While il
Is hardly a piping In one sense Of the
"oro' very effective work is being done
with thick and heavy cable cords COW
cred with silk. The covering is not
shirred or wrinkled on as heretofore: It
Hes quite smooth and 1nt. and the cord.
III Is as thick as ones thumb In Ito
smaller presentations-ls twisted into all
sorts OF patterns and designs Watch
springs. coils, undulating ropes. Iattices,
ETC.. are so fashioned, and very effective
trimming they make at but small Ell.
penditure OF time or money.
Striped silks, cut on the bias and
piped with a little fentherbone cordlpy.
are being used 10 excellent results. To
peep forth either edge OF n nuns fold. TO
border strappings, to edge pleats. Trim
collars and cuffs, strap waistcoats, etc,
IRE some OF their missions. and when the
color contrast Is cieverly selected quite
an elaborate air can be achieved on
simple frock with such assistance.
The wherewithal that one shall cover
the arms Is bound to be a yexed question
In the determining OF the lines Of cos
tune this coming season. The dress
makers In Paris are advocating sleeve
less dresses. There are some that display
mar sleeve. and there are models on
view In which the sleeve is carried in m
exaggerated fashion down IN mItans
shape over the hand, the thumb being
sipped through a little loop provided
Tor Just this purpose. And between this
last and the sleeveless mode one can take
any choice.
1t would look rs though the sleeveless
mode we're to have quite q run, II one is
70 Judge from the preparations made In
nigh-ciass houses 10 meet Its require
ments. Lingerie sleeves, lace sleeves. and
even fussifled chiffon sleeves, are already
on view to favored customers. It is 10 10
noted In this connection that such
articles are all of French make: that
not stitch of machine work enters into
their making. and that there Is usually
rnther a scant pun at the top aud
reasonably close ct from there TO the
hand.
Where the separate sleeve is used there
Is usually a sleeve cap, an epaulette Or
some other shoulder elaboration IN the
dress, so that the mandate OF broad
shoulders. email waist and slender h.H
is not interfered with. The Sleeveless
style does cut more than a little from
ones natural shoulder breadth, unless
especial pains be taken to broaden
out, and so the natural balance Of the
ngure seems a triie askew.
Collars are much higher 10 the recent
Arrivals and there Is q tendency 10 hoae
them nrmiy under the ears at the b1cs
and with still another rod inserted "a
each side between these two polnu
When Il Is considered that upon me
shape. size and set Of the collar so mu'n
face and the chapeau eau
both be unpleasantly affected by bauy
boned or fitting collar-it seems odd iL.'
the average dressmaker pays 50 little
tention 10 this important point