davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08

and even Paquin has made concessions In
his latest models.
a lower Broadway house, noted for the
number and quality OF the French frocks
which 1t imports each season, and very
generous toward the public in the matter
OF exhibiting imported models, has been
having an opening display that was dis
tinctly illuminating in regard to Partisan
dress ideas for the coming season. SO large
and interesting a collection of French frocks
as that shown at this opening has never
been brought together in any one American
house before, If the o inion Of experts is
to be trusted, and certainly we nave never
seen so many frocks Of uniformly high
merit in one group.
The Paquin gowns OF this collection arc
almost without exception examples Of the
Empire period of which we nave been speak
Ing, and of which Paquin is the chief in
terpreter; and one Of these modified EN-
pire gowns Is perhlos the most charming
model in the exhibit, although it does not
jump at the eyes as do some of its rivals.
This frock has ben Sketched for the central
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08

that, and the colors most used by the ia
nous makers are for the most part one
Of delicate and cool tints.
Certain rather vivid browns have come
to the front and will be worn throughout
the summer, although the color is essen
tally a w rm one, not as a rule becoming
to faces flushed, as faces arc likely to be
during dog days. The nut browns, and
more p~artiouldrly the wood browns, which
are compa ratiyely light and cool, have
enjoyed a tremendous vogue in Paris, but
for some reason or other these shades have
not been taken up here, and now, for the
first time, they are receiving serious atten-
ton from the patrons of the high class i'm
porters and dressmakers.
Several blues recalling the lighter bluet
shades. but known as hyacinth and bleu
milit1ire, the latter blue not suggesting
things military to American eyes, but
familiar to the French in the odd blue
Of the chasseurs d'Afrique. are favorite
relieving color notes, as are the coral and
rose pinks, various yellows Of the apricot
and ora ge tones and numerous soft greens.
Yellow ard rose in combination, a genuine
P~ompadour color scheme, are repeated
often in both frocks and millinery.
The ~Pomp7dour period still interests
many of the fnshion-makers and furnishes
the motive for a hest of costumes that are
~charmingly coqucttish and picturesque.
The Powered ccat Of truo Pomradour
design appears among the costumes Of
scverql Of the most noted makers this
spring and vas . prominent feature Of the
M.ute Crrlo model.
One of these models fer which Beer is
responsible and another cmanctilg from
Worth are in the New Yorl: exhirit, and the
Eeer frock is ]cmiNe1tiy successful, though
the Worth model lca vcs niue! to be desired
in point OF line. Both ccstumc. have the
fowcred coat with drared coat skirts which
is to he seen in pictures Of the Marquise,
but Beer has managed the handkerchief
drapery of his coat fronts and basques with
oonsummate art. and the c~oloring in his
model is blended with the same skill.
The sketch of this frook gives an excel
lent idea Of the coat back and Of the ar.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08

rangement Of the net and lace skirt. but the
design Of the silk-huge flower punches IN
rose and other delicate dull tints on a ground
of straw color and with wide plain border
Of straw color-is a vital feature OF the
frock's beauty. The double folds Of straw
color over rose, which cross the full net
under bodice in the back, producing a skele-
ton bodice effect. are a point in the coat
worth noting, and the drapery Of the lace
fchu is disposed with much o!everness.
A Du Barry gown, copied, with some
notifications, from an old portrait OF the
famous Du Barry, comes from f~avernier,
a maker comparatively new in Paris, but
for whom marked success is ~prophesied
by the knowing ones. This especial frook
has some resemblance to the Marquisate
costumes-"Marquisate" is, by the way.
the proper word for the %pompadour mode
this ~season-but has also distinct points
of difference.
1t is less imposing. more jaunty, less ex-
IRENE. more adapted to the average wearer.
With all respect to Tavemier, one may
add that his frock, charming az it is, Is no
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08

set into the skirt in irregular lines and
gray silk is introduced between the lines of
lace. The sleeves are particularly good
in their combination of mousseline. silk
and lace but will be better understood from
the sketch than from description,
Side by side with this lovely model was
a second Paquin frock, also Empire il char
acter, but with a difference. This was a
street frock, or, rather, a coat ard skirt
costume for dress occasions, and was in
its own way very succetsful, though il had
not the quiet and exquisite distinction Of
the gray frock.
4 corn color chiffon h~roadcloth WIS the
chosen material ard the skir; was abso-
lutcly plain, hut hung i'll graceful folds that
spoke volumes for the skill of the maker
and meant more than any amoGnt of elabo-
rate trimming The coat. too, WIS in a vay
severe. 1t W. Of the cloth. but superb
Irish lace formed a little bolero laid over
the cloth ard holding the coat srugly to
the figure dow to a point just below the
Dust line.
Below that the coat fell freely TO a line
below the hip curve ard was untrimmed.
A plain collar of the cloth fell back over the
lace bolero, cloth cuffs were on tie sleeves
ard odd, ecarflike tabs Of the cloth hung
loose from bust TO the bottom of the coat
in the front.
B er has been les favorable to Empire
modes than his great rival, but has created
some delightful models in this genre ard
las shown col siderable leaIiug toward
DiTc.oir idcC-, which are confused in the
lay mird with the Empire period. A very
striking Dire G ORC Coz tuma from L or is
Displayed among the frocks under con-
sideration AID ATTRACTS mitch admiration,
although any model OF this type is rather
too radical TO be gel erally popular.
The lines Of the net skirt which reaches
to the bust, after the fashion of the period
and is inset with lace almost to the hip line.
are extraordinarily good; and che skirt,
in this day, is the crucial problem for a
dressmaker, the part of the modish costume
which is most often a failure. Only a true
artist can handle the c~orselet, princesse, or
Empire skirt. all variations upon the same
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08

manded enormous width at bottom.
Floppces and frills were much in evidence,
and most surprising of all the hats worn
With these Second Empire frocks were
Topping. Jeghorn flats, looking strangely
o,Itso place among the high crowned big
hats and the little tiptiltcd models.
There is no probability that this Monte
Carlo visioti vii! be repeated here this
summer. 1t liz not likely TO make its debut
eveh In Paris before August, but what has
been exploited on the Riviera by the elec.
few, who really play srar parts in the light
comedy Of fashion making will surely
have its innings in Paris before many
months and it will be interesting 10 see
how far the revolution will go.
Mean while the importers nra showing
models to whose lines one has gradually
become accustomed during the 'a,t seuson.
The Empire gown of which Americans have
heard much and seen little is much in evil
denee, but the successful Empire gown is
OF decidedly modified form. '''''
Paquin has fol-, some time past been push
ing the Empire modes, but even Paquin
has not succeeded In forcing radical En-
pips lines upon more than a few fashionable
women. The beautiful Madame ,Letelier.
q OF the leaders OF fashion in Pa ris. has
gone Tower with enthns iasm 10 Pao,lin's
idr4 and has worn most charminely En-.
ptrsSRowns and head dresses OF, tie roat.
proh"unced type, but she is an exception,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08

such work Of art as the model of Beer, who
is considered by many authorities the great
est creative dressmaking genius of Paris
to-day.
The Du Barry model is worked out in q
striped green and white silk; with a little
bow knot and floral spray design Of laven-
der and rose scattered over the striped
surface at rather wide intervals and in
delicate green mousseline de sole, match
ing the green of the silk. A broad band
of the striped silk on the bias trims the
skirt and is bordered by little ruches Of
mousseline, along whose centre cords runs
the tiniest Of floral bead passementerie
in the shades of the flower garland Of the
elk.
This bead trimming is so slight that one
hardly notices it, save as a line of color;
but the same bead trimming is introduced
in the form OF large fat buttons on the
coat. The coat is cut with short jacket
fronts and jaunty, short, full basque, slop-
ing away sharply from the front, Green
velvet borders the decolletege and the
edges OF the coat. and a particularly good
girdle OF draped mousseline holds the coat
closely to the figure in the back, but passes
under the jacket fronts, at the side seams.
Silk mousseline is, on the whole, the ma
terial dearest to the heart of the French
dressmaker this season; and though there
are innumerable other fabrics, modish and
popular, two out of three Of the dressy i'm
ported frocks are at least partly developed
in silk mousseline. There are, of course,
various weights of this mousseline, and the
heavier grades really wear well. though,
naturally, no stuff of this nature will be so
serviceable as one Of the heavier and
tougher fabrics.
silk grenadine is having much success in
Paris. and there are tissues galore Of all
grades of s~heerness. In fine stripes the
silk mousselines and tissues are greatly
liked by the French makers; and, in numer-
Gus models, the white and black and the
pink fads are combined by using a striped
white and black mousseline over pink silk
and chiffon. Exquisite mousselines with a
black printed design at wide intervals over a
white surface are used in the same way; and,
as a general thing, touches Of pink and black
are associated with lace in the trimming.
Knots of black tulle with brilliant centres
sometimes furnish the soupcon Of black;
and, again, black velvet is used.
The fancy for pink bids fair to be one OF
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08
Dress Allowanc OF Royal Daughters.

From the Tdnrr.
People sometimes wonder what sum Il
put aside for dress by the daughters ~ re al
houses.
Before her marriage. I read the other DAY.
the Duchess Of Fife was said to have a snail
dress allowance, and the sum Of 81 500 4 wear
was mentioned. BESIDES Yachting and ever -
day dresses. and all the usual costumes if-
auired by a girl of the upper cIass. rove
primo esses have also Ia wear the costly arn
elaborate dresses which their rank dcmal7@
at the weddings of their near rolB ions
on the whole, il may be asserted mat &
frugal princess may spend As little as s ,r.
a year on her dress, while her more vcaI''
and eNtravagant sister may find her di"s'
bills amount TO ten times that sum,
The Empress of Russia. who more Than @.'
widest fancies, dresses with the grel'rs'
simplicity in the daytime mostly in 'a.o
mad coats and skirts. in the evening geu'rsj7
in the purest white.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08

nut Costumes Asgressively Second Empire
n, Character Have Appeared at Monte
Carlo. Foreshadowtns a re, olution
in Fash,ons-IdeaS Worked Out by
the Frcich Frockmakers-The Season
Likely to BE One or SOFT ColOrins
Many DreSsmakers Stin Maintain
interest in the Pompadour Period.
TbSsfatest advance fashion reports from
French sources are in; and now it remains
70 be seen what the women. who are, after
al, the final court of appeal, will do with
the ideas which the great .dressmakers nave
LAUNCHED.
A,ithing may be modish merely because
Paquin or some one Of his peers vouches
for i; but it does not follow that this thing
will, be popular or even that it will be &C.
oepted with enthusiasm by the fastidious
fevs The best lad plans Of French auto
UFatt are often upset by feminine caprice,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08

cut, but 10 sketch will give the harmonious
color scheme, which is one of the essential
beauties Of the model.
Despite the Empire lines there is abso-
lutely nothing bizarre nor conspicuous
about the frook. The perfect harmony
which produces an impression Of extreme
simplicity chara oterizes the model, and it is
only upon examination that one realizes
the exquisite detail that goes to produce
this effect.
SILK mousseline in a soft gray forms the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08
"IT's A BOSTON WAY" SHE SAID,
The Boston Woman Did. as She Drank Tea
Through Her Veil.

She hailed from the Hub and was doing
a New York tea. She was modishly dressed
and her manner showed the self possession
Of one accustomed to things as they
should be.
She lifted her cup to her lips without
raising her mesh veil. A hand Of protest
was hastily laid upon her arm by the woman
who poured tea.
Excuse me-your-your veil! YOU
you've forgotten to put it up cried the
woman who poured tea.
'Not-at-all," came the response in IN
dignant ticks. Il am perfectly aware thlt
Boston"
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08
THE SUN. SUNDAY. APRTL ). 19oe.

theme, as it SHOULD be handled, securing
the clinging body and hip lines in conneo-
ton with the graceful, spreading fulhess
of the lower skirt.
The opening Of the successful skirt OF
this class is also a difficult problem; for, in
the French models, tina method Of getting
into and out Of such a costume is shrouded
in mystery, while, in the less successful
model the opening line ia lamentably obvious.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08

gown from Paquin. there is only the most
delicate and quiet Of color harmony, the
originality, Of the frock being supplied by
the departure from conventional lines; and
in almost every case better success Is OBJ
tanned in the production of the period gown,
If this rule is observed
For that matter the season promises to
be of soft and refined coloring. Thu prom
thence Of black and white and gray insures
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08

extent tho curves OF the figure and doing
away with the extreme Empire line.
Girdle aud surplics bodice above 1t are
Of sheer soft silk, embroidered lavishly and
exquisitely in shades Of light blue tones,
hhrmonizing marveliously with the gray,
Lines of narrow blue velvet relieve the
cream lace OF the guimpe and run round
the top Of the girdle,
Lace dyed to match the mousseline is
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08

1t would pay any dressmaker to study
oonscientiously the details Of the many
corselet skirts included among the models
shown in this broadway collection.
To return to the Directoire costume.
A Directoire coat, recalling the lncroyable
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08

ideas, is associated with the skirt Of net
and lace; and the sketch given here will
indicate the clevcrness Of the coat tail back,
which is tho most artistic feature of the
costume.
The silk of theNeoat is a white and pinkish
lavender stripe, AID touches of velvet in a
lavender, slightly deeper, are introduced at
the top of the coat fails, on the ~Incroyable
revers and in the cuffs! Here as in the gray
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-04-08

or Iby some unexpected chance, and the
story efs seasons fashions is never told
until tie season ts ended. !.
Thu year. for example, there are sur
prRing possibilities lurking behind the
Obvious modes, and those who read the
Monte Carlo prophecies ~mtelligently are
expecting Developments in the late season
coacerning which the ubiquitous Empire
and Princesse models shown in the spring
openings give no hint. just at the end
OF the Riviera season several of the women
whose clothes r always authoritative
from q fashion point Of view appeared at
Mohte Carlo In costumes sggressively
Second Empire in character.
immediately a buzz Of comment arose.
Here was the unexpected happening in
defiance OF a general ruling.
these daring women wore frocks whose
skirts were shirred into the Wristbands as
full as possible, to compensate for the
absence Of the hoopskirt, and the flare de-
Bisbee daily review., 1906-01-11
THE STATEHOOD FIGHT.

This week will probably witness the beginning of the battle in Con gross over the proposed statehood bill which has for its purpose the joining of Arizona and New Mexico intosene state. ... !. Dupring the past two weeks there has been a more determined opposi- tion manifested to this iniquitous measure in Arizona than ever before At conference held in Phoenix at the close of the territorial fair more than one hundred of the best repre- sentative men of the territory, EeEe resenting the sentiment of nearly every county, were present. At this' meeting it was determined that Ari- zons should send number of her representative citizens to Washing ton for the purpose of laying before the Congressmen and Senators the conditions prevailing in New Mexico and Arizona and the reason why the people of Arizona are so unanimously and bitterly opposed to the proposed jointure; the advance guard of these Arizona citizens are now in Washing ton; others should follow them dur ing the present week or before the end of the month.
 As has been stated before in this paper, not less than 90 per cent of the people of Arizona are opposed to the joint statehood bill and desire that Arizona shall remain a territory in definitely rather than to consent to the loss of its political autonomy There are many reasons for this po- sition.
 Arizona is opposed to the joint state hood bill for the same reason that would cause the people of Arkansas to oppose 8 bill for joining that state with Tennessee under one govern ment, or the people of Kansas to ob-
Bisbee daily review., 1906-01-11

have protested to Congress and to the president. Not single represen- tative organization in any part of the territory has been found to en- dorse joint statehood, though there are very few individuals who have tried to deceive the president and Congress by sending out the false statement that there are many in the territory who favor the jointure with New Mexico. Fortunate for Arizona, there was number of Congressmen who came here during the fall of last year and they can bear testimony to the practically unanimous sentiment in the territory against the joint state hood bill.
 Arizona is not now asking for any kind of statehood. and it is to be hoped that there are enough fair mind. ed men in Congress to prevent our people from being forced into the ob, jectionable kind of statehood proyid- ed by the Hamilton bill.
 Word coming from friends in Wash ington is of such a nature as to en. courage the hope that Hamilotn and Beveridge will be baked in their at tempt to commit the proposed joint statehood outrage
Bisbee daily review., 1906-01-11

view amendments. means saving to
 water consumers over present rates. and means the building of a municip- al sewer, with a more sanitary condi- |tion for the community, an additional encouragement to present property owners to improve their property, and an invitation to the outside investor to come in.
 With the streets paved. a sewer sys-
 tem installed, and an energetic admin listration of city affairs. conditions Iwould be more inviting by fifty per cent The property owners who will pass upon this question are all vitally Interested An exodus from Bisbee lon account of the continuance of the pi esent unfavorable conditions means la depreciation in property values. not |orly to business men. but to the small
 householder The municipal sewer system Is for the common good of the community. It is badly needed, and lit devolves upon us to help ourselves.
 In connection with the franchise. it should be borne in mird always that you are giving to. the Bisbee-Eaco Water Company nothing that you can not give to the very next water compa- ny that comes on the ground with suf- ficient money to put in plant. You are making saving in your present water bills, and in addition you are insuring your community against dis54 case.
 Bisbee must have a sewer system, and the time is at hand. What ex- ouse is there to offer for longer delay ing this most necessary municipal i'm
 prcyement? These questions of vital
 importance to the health and prosper ity of Bisbee must be met fairly, with
 nc disposition to dodge or procrasu nate.
 In order that the question may go Ito the people unsurTounded by any ob-. iectionable features. the Councii should at this time insist or a revision |of the ordinance incorporating a nun |icipal clause and eliminating the twen- lty-fve year contract feature, and the Water Company, acting in good faith with the people of Bisbee, should con lsent to the amendments.
Bisbee daily review., 1906-01-11

Company will spend s75.ooO in this i'm provement.
 The Titcomb gas company will in stall their gas enterprise and supply the city with gas during the year, which will call for an expenditure of ss0,oo0.
 W. H. Brophy of Bisbee expects to build large business block at the corner of Eleventh street and c ave nue, This building will have a 100- foot front on c avenue It has not yet been definitely planned. but it will likely be two stories high.
 The new city hall on Tenth street is now in the hands of the contrac-
Bisbee daily review., 1906-01-11
tors. and will cost s7ooo complete.

tors. and will cost s7000 complete.
 The Presbyterian church building has been contracted for. This will be the largest church building in the city and will cost about s12,ooo con- plete and furnished.
 The Catholics will. during the pres ent year, begin the erection of $10.000 church building on their lots on Tenth street.
 These are few ofsthe important improvements already assured for Douglas this year. Besides there are now many residences going up in every quarter of the city.