davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening journal., 1906-08-16
HAIL TO THE BRIDE!
The June Bride Takes Possession Of the Scene
Exquisite Bridal T'oiLetteS Softly Draping
Material and Real LGces the Thing.

The bride Of the merry month Of June
IS the center Of attraction, and her gifts,
her gowns. her bridesmaids aud her honey
moon plans form almost the sole topic
OF conversation wherever two or three of
her friends are gathered together.
Old-fashioned people used to declare that
woman's name should appear 10 the
public prints-as the phrase used to run
but three tlmes in her life, to wit, when
she was born, when she married and when
she died.
Today. In this day and era OF personal
Journalism. not 20 have ones name In the
papers Is TO declare ones self of no social
Importance whatsoever, and the prospective
bride and her plans are discussed as freely
in the columns of the newspapers as In
the bosom OF her family.
Like 80 many other traditions. the use
OF a stid white satin for the bridal gown
is now altogether passe. Occasionally one
hears Of some sentimental girl who orders
one such. usually 70 please an elderly rela-
tive one suspects. but by far the greater
number are made OF softly falling satins,
Of chi1ons silk. mulls, some OF the new
chiffon brocades or the exguisitely EN-
broidered Chinese crepes.
The princesse gown has long been IN high
estecm for wedding purposes, and Il must
be confessed that its recent popularity
offers no drawbacks 20 Its use In this con
neciion.
One thing, however. must he Impressed
upon the drcssmaker by the bride who can
see az sides Of the ceremony, aud that Is
that the fastening OF the g0wa must not
be down the center OF The back. Only too
often the fact Is lost sight OF that. Tor the
entire ceremony, the bride presents her
back TO the congregation assembled. and
no matter how thickly draped the veil OF
dlmy tulle or ~ rostly lace may b.. "a
Evening journal., 1906-08-16

prayerbook seems more suited to the bride
Of mature years. although many Of the
June weddings viii see the bride carrying
both.
The shower" bouquet has practically
displaced all others. and It ls assuredly
the prettiest thing imaginable-when It
is correctly carried ont. The exuberance
Of flowers and streamers that have been
used by some trends more than little to
over-display, and the slight restraint thar
good taste and q sense OF proportion i'm
pose are to be noted In what the best Of
New YorlS's florists are making up for
such occasions. The bouquet is carried on
the left arm IN the bend OF the elbow, and
the small prayerbook ciasped In the hand.
When the ceremony is about to commence
the maid OF honor takes the bouquet and
the bride holds the book IN both hands.
the glove having already been removed.
Many recent brides have gone TO the altar
without gloves, so that the pause IN the
ceremony necessitated by its removal for
the placing Of the ring Is thus avoided
and the hands are free for the signing Of
the registry In the vestry afterwards. To
some the bare hands In conjunction with
the elaborate gown seem to leave some
thing lacking. and here the long mitt OF
real lace comes in charmingiy. since II
covers the hands and arms aud still leaves
the fingers absolutely free.
Evening journal., 1906-08-16

evident fastening or lacing Of the gown
down the back detracts much from Its
success.
The perfectly plain princesse gown is
never turned out nowadays by any dress
maker with claims TO modishness. The
lining Is, OF course, plain and sheath
1tted. but over this the soft folds Of cnif-
fon. mousseline. brocade or what not that
makes the gown are cleverly draped.
Trimmings on and around the waistline
are IN the highest vogue, and this fact Is
taken advantage Of 10 simulate the prin-
cesse effect where the gown is really con-
structed in two pieces.
Some exquisite models IN real laces
have recently declared themselves. and
where expense Is no object -othing more
beautiful than one OF those robes can be
chosen. The tradition OF handing down
wedding gown as q family possession Is
enhanced when the bride Is lucky enough
10 be welded In one OF the real laces, all
handmade. and who knows what beautiful
thoughts what sentiment. and oftcntimes
a prayer are wrought into the threads OF
the design by the maker. as her bobbins
fy over the pillow upon which the pat
tern Is made.
These real lace productions are mounted
over chiffon, and the latest conccit has
this chiffon -pieated white liberty
satin Is the usual foundation. although
some OF the hest makers are using plain
white tanctas veiled with moussellne de
sole. Where the bride Is tall-and our
present generation OF girls scale goodly
few more Inches than their mothers and
grandmothers dld-some narrow rufles
are sometimes introduced as = foot trim
ming. but otherwise every effort Is direct
ed 20 securing length Of line and dignity
IN the bridal gown.
Recent importations in wedding gowns
Evening journal., 1906-08-16
A Suggestion for the
Travelling Gown.

The simpler the summertime travelling
gown the better its style. There must De
no frills and 1ounces wherewlth to eaten
end hold the dust and grimc OF travel
and there must not be a hint OF super
nuous trimming 20 tempt the little gods
Of chance and accident TO Its undoing.
Not hovever. that the costume need be
M ali severe 10 Its outlines; IL Is merely
that the happy medium OF style ana
simpilcity combined mu be displayed
THE r-aterinl Of THE r 5de Is one of
those novel silk-fnlshed mohairs, In
anil porcelain blue check. the material
shedding dust and dirt 10 a miracle, aud
~ the same time retaining the soft prettf
ness which Is one OF Its charms. The III
tie coat follows the EtOn style. there be-
Ing n Dutch neck bOrdered with the palest
OF blue linens. and this touch being re-
peated in the Gun that peeps forth from
beneath the elbow sleeve. Strappings OF
dun porcelain blue hid are used effective
lv. and buckle slides In dull oxidlzed
ver simulate a fastening. The skirt is
one Of those gored affairs. With double
side pleats IN each gore, the pleats
stitched down for some inches over the
hips aud then left to nare to the deep
hem. The front gore Is defined witt kid
strappings, buckle fastened on either
side aud the hem Just barely touches the
ground all around; the velveteen binding
serving the double purpose OF protection
aud facing. The smart little chapeau Is
IN plain white erin. much enfolded, ana
with porcelain blue plumes tucked 10 at
one side TO match the gown.
Evening journal., 1906-08-16

show some innovations IN the matter OF
trim and construction. One Intended for
q bride who tops the groom to-be by
few inches Is made with an extremely
long train. The foundation OF white tat
fetas shows a succession Of overlapping
rufiies OF silk, each shrred over n feather
bone cording and the same sligh. stinening
run into the hem of each ruff" 10 lieu of
Of the usual pinking. Each ru1ie Is COW
cred with one Of plisse moussellne de sole.
put on with a shirred heading. and the
train Of soft white satin Is not caught to
the foundation at any point between the
side seams When the wearer moves the
train ehifts ever 80 slightly and discloses
those FUZZY rufies beneath, in which little
punches Of artificial orange blossoms and
lilles-of-the-valley are caught at intervals.
Evening weddings are altogether out Of
favor. In England the ceremony must be
performed before noon. else II Is not con
sidered legal On this side Of the water
the hour Of or IN the afternoon :,
come TO be considered the most fashion
able, us II is assuredly the most convent
ent. Being daylight function. a decolle-
tage and Jewels are decidedly out OF
place, but the top part of the gown Is
usually OF lace, mounted over chiffon. hut
otherwise left unllned. The vogue Of half
sleeves, too. adds to the pretty effect, and
such Jewels as are worn are usually just
a string OF pearls, and, pc laps, a star or
crescent wherewth to catch the coronal
OF orange blossoms that crown the long
veil.
The odtlme method OF draping the veil
over the face Is never observed any more
The later style calls for q coronal of the
tulle. with grunge blossoms interviewer,
on the top Of the couture, and long,
straight folds dependent from there clear
10 the hem OF the train. Shorter wells
were In use last season abroad. many OF
them coming no farther than the waist
line. but the effect was voted sklmpy and
altogether lacking in the graceful lines
that the full length veil affords.
Wells OF real lace are cherished heir
looms In some families and tn are being
brought out again to the light OF day
now that that draping over the face Is
omitted Where the lace Is light :. pat
tern they are delightfully."- effective; but.
nevertheless, the foamy aud hlmy folds
Of tuile are usually far more becoming TO
the youthful beauty OF the bride.
As for tue question or dowers. there Is
quite a discussion. Recent brides abroad,
some OF them members OF royal houses.
have preferred 10 carry prayer books
bound IN exQulsitely wrought covers.
Ivory, silver, brocade. vellum-nli clabor.
ated In the costllest fushion-have been
used for bindings, and the makers 10.
serted IN the place OF the ritual of pure
gold mounted upon Illuminated ribbons.
The sentiment OF the bridal bouquet
however. prevails still. aud IL Is surely
more In keeping with the ideal OF d
J girlish bride that she carry nowers. ID
Evening journal., 1906-08-16
The Latest and Correct
Bouquet.

There is a decided difference OF opinion
ns to the bridal bouquet. Many brides
have omitted II Of late and carried instead
handsome prsyer-book, bound In ivory,
silver, white kid or vellum. But there Is
q certain amount OF sentiment attached
20 the brides bouquet which viii make
the great majority OF June brides adhere
to the old custom and carry an armful OF
simple dowors. indicative Of simplicity
and purity.
The exquisite shower bouquet pictured
Is devised by Joseph Fleischmann. the
accepted authority IN New York upon all
things floral and flower trimmed. Lilies
of-the-valley are used. and IL will be no.
ticed that their arrangement Is soft and
loose. there being no stiN massing OF the
blossoms. The broad white ribbon sash
that Is tied around the stems Is Of quite
moderate proportions. and the shower
part Is Just enough 10 fall prettily with
out the effect OF OVERRIDING the thing.
which has appeared all too frequently of
late. As In the table decorations for the
brides table, Flc Imam may always be
depended upon. 10 produce something that
will appeal 70 the most fastiiious tastc.
avoiding any suggestion OF lavishness or
display. and at the samc time conforming
IN every detail 10 the canons NJ ec0d form
and correct STYLE The chancel decora-
tions 10 the ceremony picture are likewise
by this artist IN decorations
Evening journal., 1906-08-16
Wedding Superstifions

The old rhyme that had 70 do with the
days OF the week still holds considerable
power IN the choice OF the wedding day
In some districts. In Scotland one sell
dom hears OF n Saturday wedding. while
IN both France and Ireland Sunday Is
the favorite day. The Romans consid-
cred Wednesday the luckiest of the
week, and the old rhyme referred to
carries out the same idea. II runs:
Monday for health,
Tuesday for wealth,
Wednesday the best day OF ell;
Thursday for crosses,
Friday for losses,
And Saturday no lnck at allr'
Just what luck followed Sundays
bride tradition sayeth not.
A January bride will be a good house
keeper. good tempered and thrifty.
February bride will prove an az
fectionate wife and o good mother
A March bride will turn out frivolous
chatterbox. given TO misunderstanding and
quarrelng.
An April bride will be inconstant; not
very intelligent hut fairly good-ooking.
A May bride IL handsome. amiable aud
likely 10 make others happy.
June bride will be suuny-tempereds
impetuous and generous.
July bride Is likely TO prove quick.
tempered. though ready to forgive and
forget.
An August bride Is usually practical
clever and a good housekeeper.
A September bride Is said to be affable.
discreet and well liked by ALL
An October bride will be pretty, Co
quettlsh, loving. but intensely Jealous.
A November bride Is liberal and kind.
but Of a wild disposition.
4 December bride Is extravagant FOND
OF novelty and entertaining.
The old superstitions nnent the we'd
ding gown have been rhymed 70 suit at
most every country and every class OK
wearer. The rhyme announces:
married IN white. you've chosen all
right
Married 10 blue. you will be true.
Married 10 yellow. ashamed OF the fei-
low.
Married In green. ashamed to be seen
Married In gray, you'll live far away.
Married in brown. you'll live In the
town.
Married in red. you'll wish yourself
dead.
Married in black. for iuek you'u lack"
Evening journal., 1906-08-16
FelOer Bridesmaids the Fashion FTlp1y Frocks
and Dainty Accessories Variety in
Counting the Latest idea Hats
and Headdress.
and HeGddress.

the other hand, there is hardly any other
type OF gown that shows up each touch
OF elaboration 20 such perfection Plain
white frocks with sashes, shoulder knots
those a recent adoption and other trim
mings IN delicate color. are Ia vogue for
country weddings; and Marie Antonette
baskets filled with country blossoms carry
out the idea Of simplicity that Is sup
posed TO attend the country wedding
The element OF the picturesque Is sup
posed 20 enter into the gownlug OF the
bridesmaids since convention has done 80
much TO limit the opportunities OF the
bride herself IN this direction. The com.
Ing vogue Of Louis and Directolre coats
topping skirts Of SILK or lace or chiffon
affords delightful chance FOR picturesque
gowniug the coats being usually In Dres-
den printed SILK. moirc or one Of the new
Peku stripes; ana the skirt I'm n solid
color, unrelleved by stripe OF pattern.
Hats are usually OF the picturesque or
der although more thnu one June bride
will have her attendants wear smart knots
Of tulle aud ribbon, with an outstanding
ostrich tip az the side.
Neck ruches OF malinctte-that novel
malines that Is absolutely damp and
shower proof. and for whica we have
waited so long-with tiny little flowers
and loops of ribbon tucked into their
folds. make charming appearance with
a summery toilette; and there are some
charming parasols berushed aud beruded
with this hlmy material-which looks the
height Of extravaganza, so perlshable does
Il appear-which will be hailed with Joy
by their lucky possessors.
Indeed, even for the brides wear the
dresemnkers are advocating this novel
fabric; for n the atmosphere be at all
damp or humid the usual malincs Is wont
20 assume a limp and bedraggled appear
ance, although Its lrst appearance may
be but few minutes previous.
Evening journal., 1906-08-16
The Bride and Her Attendants.

While there is evident IN some quarters
recently return 20 the stin white satin
ana hrocades Of former days, with GUAM
Titles Of real lnces for trimming, the
more girlish brides nre emphaticaliy DE-
claring their preference for the soft chlf-
fous. crepes do chine, embroidered silk
null and other himy materials TINT har.
monize 50 well with their slender and
youthful appearance The su0 white
saun Is much too trying 10 be lightly
chosen for the one moment IN an OF her
life when the necessity OF looking her
very best Is imperative. The bride In the
picture Is most becomlngly gowned in
one Of those soft chiffon satlns that fan
into such alluring godets and folds: and
on which the exeulsitely nne Irish GRO.
chet shows up 10 the utmost advantage.
The gown follows the favored princesse
mode-ever fancy Of brides-tbe pliahle
material taking kindly to the folds. which
narrow upon the cOrSGge, spread out On
the skirt TO fan pleats OF goodly size The
chemisette Is OF finest Venetian rose point.
backed with sheer chiffon and the deem
ceinture Of Irish crochet is cleveriy raised
IN a deep upward point 10 the back,
sloped considerably TO the front, 70 be
carried down the center 10 an unbroken
line, widening out most becomlngly al
the foot The veil is arranged In a Marie
Antoinette bow on the top OF the coifure.
caught with q cOronet OF orange blossoms
and allowed to fall ia full ana free folds
clear 10 the hem % the train thus add
Ing both height and dignity to the CEN
tral figure OF the ceremony.
The bridesmaids are gowned, respective
ly, Ia the palcst yellow Tor the maid OF
honor, and in' rose pink for the other
attendant. Both gowns are made OF the
beautiful chiffon yelling, an silk. as sheer
1T. nHIH IfI ~
nre robe" patterns. With embroidery for
the blouse bolero sleeve and lounciugs
for the skirts. Lace hl,uses are worn be-
meath, the lace showing through the
slashes Of the yelling blouse. aud on the
sleeve, while the chapeaux are OF white
/ erin, pfetiiiy. uudulated rs TO hrim and
trimmed with ostrich plumos 10 accord
] With rhe frocks-
Evening journal., 1906-08-16

For summer wear NJ the resorts. with
the white linen shirts ma short skirts
low rundown collars win be worn. with.
bow ties OF pink. nyeudar or paie blue
silk. the belt aud hosiery matching the
color Of the tie. white pumps or oxfOrds
being the correct f0otgear With such
costume
Evening journal., 1906-08-16

RATHER GLOOMY PROSPECT.
How is your nephew getting on. Mary
Anny'
Hes purity bad. Hiss. so yesterday
they TUX him 10 the hospital 70 perform
81 autopsy on him."
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-07-08

durability. 1t wears extremely we'll, shakes
Oh the dust as readily as pongee, and par
tioularly 10 the yellow biscuit and cafe au
lait tones is distinctly attractive.
Plain coats Of good design and we'll tai
lored In this material may be had at prices as
low as SO, now that the season Of marked
down summer wraps Is here; and, for SIS a
charming gloria ooat may be bought. tn
clear butter color or cafe au lait color Of
which we have spoken Is especially well set
OF by q touch Of black and the most success
full Of the gloria models show this color
scheme.
Pongee coats in this same coloring are
offered, but the pongee coats usually run
the gamut of the shades we have learned to
accept as natural pongee shades These
tones range from very light to medium dark,
and vary considerably as to the amount Of
brown and yellow in them; but all the color
ings are practical and cool looking, and
though pongee wrinkles ~shockingly 1t is
q desirable dust BOAT material because OF
it's light weight, dust shedding surface and
neutral coloring.
A good quality Of the silk should be
chosen and there 10 great variety In the
weave, weight, TO-. Of the many silks all
classed carelessly under the head Of pongee.
A very good quality Of domestic pongee Ia
now on the market and 10 used by the coat
makers with very good results.
Buckingham and similar rough surface
silks Of the pongee family make modish
travelling and motor coats, but 1t must DO
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-07-08

braided in black, though the plain block
details are really more chic.
Cloth is often used for collars, cuffs, &c.,
in place Of silk or leather, though it has the
disadvantage of catching the dust moro
easily thar silk. The same objection may
be urged against the cloth bands which
trim some very pretty dust coats In pongee
or taffeta.
Cloth and silk are Of the same color: and
collar, cuffs and pocket flaps are Of the
cloth used for the stitched bands. The
cloth gives frmness and weight to the silk
and admits Of clever tailoring effeots.
In gray and in the ecru and mode c~olorinRs
this idea works out very effectively, but
the cloth does soil much more quickly than
the sllk.
Mohair dust coats are more serviceable
than modish, but it would be hard to hnc
a material better adapted in point Of utility
for such purposes. A fine, lustrous chiffon
mohair is a very different thing from ths
old time stiff, wiry mohair, but it retains
the traditional wearing qualities, is cool
and shakes of dust az well as any material
made.
The most attractive Of the mohair dust
coats are In the rather light soft grays Of
fine quality, well tailored and with no re-
lieving note save big white pearl buttons.
We have seen such coats out with great
cleverness and with much originality Of
%strapping, stitching. pocket arrangement,
&c., and they were eminently smart as well
as eminently useful. .
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-07-08

quently introduced in the pongee models,
and bright red il a populer relieving note
upon the natural lined pongee, though, OF
course, the brilliant color must be used skill
fully and not too lavishly. A chic French
ooat pictured among the sketches was a
very successful illustration Of this color
scheme.
1t was trimmed in bands Of the pongee
piped in red and a short wasted Empire
effect was suggested by a loose belt Of such
bands set q little above the natural waist
line, the two ends crossing in the back
and running up a little way on each side
Of the point Of a red lined Capuchin hood.
Another natural tor pongee coat had a
draped hood fned with bright red satin
finish silk dotted with white, and three
small oooordes Of this bright dotted silk
were set on zach side Of the front in place
Of buttons.
Dark blue. Wedgwood and Gobelin
blues, grays, browns and several rpol
gray greens are represented among the
pongee dust coats, and some Of these
oolorings give delightful effects; but, on
the whole, the cool natural tones are the
most servioeable and attractive.
Going pack for o moment to the dust
coat Of linen, one must make mention Of
certain chic II somewhat absurd models
In natural tone linen embroidered all over
insmall design Of English eyelet embroidery.
These coats are made very loose and flowing
and not quite 90 long as the average dtht
coat, and have collars and cuffs Of broAn
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1906-07-08

coats and is absolutely without other trim
ming than the stitching and strapping,
but the lines of the model are 30 good, the
details OF seam, pockets, collar, do.. 30
admirable that the coat has more decided
caohet than the more pretentious models
shown beside 1t.
Two big square pockets with button flaps
are set on the side fronts, and on the sleeve
at the cuff line Is set q small pocket with
flap buttoning down, as do the flaps OF the
larger pocket. The coat back suggests
the tourist coat. with'a belt holding loosely
the extreme fulness.
This coat is perhaps most attractive in
soft, heavy dull finish linen Of that shade
Just of the white and not creamy enough
for eoru or biscuit, which used to be called
string, though various other names are
now applied to it. In this tone. with dark
tortoise shell buttons, 1t Is as cool and chic
as a garment Of the kind could we'll be,
and 1t is good. too, in q lovely shade OF soft,
dull pink linen with white pearl buttons,
though the pink Is not for use with all hats
and parasols. as lie the neutral tint. -.
For the woman who docs not like the very
sever smartnees Of such models ther o are
other linen coats, still simple in line and
without the fussiness that would make them
unsuitable for their purpose but orna-
mented by complicated soutaohe breidings
in the color Of the linen and with or without
a touch OF black or Of contrasting color in
the collar and cuffs.
A very handsome coat Of this type In