The San Francisco call., 1906-04-01

fastened with an immense bunch OF
vfoIets in which there were the tiniest
OF violet loops Of ribbon
Two Hats with Each Gown
Mrs. Grover Cleveland is a woman
who wears an Easter hat, for shF
comes out regularly in the spring with
a handsome light cloth dress and hat to
match Her gown this year is pale
gray lined with white. Her hat is
gray straw with gray quisIs. Quite a
Quakerish garb you would say were
it not for the fact that there seems to
be a flush of pink in the gray. a pecu-
liar tone. which makes 1t almost
mode color
with each gown this season We ara
making two hats. One is a picture hat,
a great spreading handsome thing with
a wind veil, with flowers and with lace.
with plumes maybe, and with beautiful
ornaments at the side. The other is q
neat little toque, little calling hat, or
a hat for the matinee. With these two
hats the costume is much more COM
plete than if there were only one hat
with it. Very often a change OF hats
quite changes the gown
I can specially recall case where
a change of hat did. indeed. change q
costume. 1t was at Newport, where
the Duchess of Marlborough was max
ing a series of visits from one house to
another. On one occasion the Duchess
wore a tan colored EtOn suit. with a
tiny little tan cOlored chiffon velves
toque trimmed with silver. with a silver
aigrette at the side. She wore silver
Jewelry and her bag was In silver, AZ
were all her other appointments. even
to her gray gloves.
a few days later her Grace wore
this same tan colored dress. But this
time she wore a coral pink picture hat
She wore pale coral three-Quartsr
gloves. her handbag was a dyed pink
leather and she wore coral Jewelrys h
coral shirt waist peeped out Of the
front OF the Eton Jacket No one would
have recognized the suit AZ the samA
1--WE milliners have Q hard row %
hoe in one way, namely, that We muse
make our hats becoming But. on TIE
other hand, We are rewarded by the
gratitude OF our customers Al one Of
our best patrons expressed Il. "A woman
is at the mercy OF her mfllinsr, and Ne
:.,erc!SuI millinsr II one who studies
her customers individually AZ wsli ~
collectively
The woman with not very much msnsY,
who Is trying to pick out hat that VIII
last her all the season. II safe b gsttin9
sailor. She can select ono oe the new
shapes and she can be sure that u wi1 -
sailor Is not a dressy hat. but X prset11Y
trimmed 10 will hold It's style for general
wear all the season. Trim the sailor vita
coral silk and coral quills and you VII
have something smart
The Little Flower Toque.
The woman who wants 4 hat for Al ths
season wear Is safe IN getting an all
flower hat. These hats are fashienabls
every spring and except for a slighe
variation in shape. they are Yade very
nearly the same year after year. This
season there is the violet toque. which -
rather pointed m the front. and many
OF these toques are trimmed with roses
at the side. making truly French COM
bination. An a1l-violet toque. with a
mass OF roses at one side. and perhaps
some heliotrope mixed In with the roses.
makes a beautiful hat for dress wear all
the year.
A shape that will hold It's own is the
round high crown. with the brim turned
up sharply atone side. This is youthful
and pretty. and through the brim there
can be thrust half dozen quills, or only
one. This hat should match the costume
and II can be so selected that it Will so
with half a dozen gowns.
The Countess of Castellane, who is q
woman OF beautiful taste in dress. went
to drive the other day in a handsome