Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-03-18

IVY - HEN the Lenten season opens 1t
q ~ 4 is commonly understood that
EAF the social season Of the winter
WW is over. Dances are considered
most questionable, and under
such cfrci1r stances 81 might lie thought iIat
there was no pressing necessity for smart
evening gowns and yet the society woman
finds Just as much opportunity for the
wearing Of smart evening clothes as when
the season was at its height Balls are not
fashionable and there is certainly not the
same necessity for lot Of bail gowns. but
dinners card parties and mus!cales OF
goodly size requires that the guests be ef-
fectively gowued. In truth. the gown
shows to far greater advantage at the
smaller entertainment than in crowded
ball room.
There is Just a shade of difference in the
evening gowns worn now. They are not
made on precisely the same Ines, although,
perhaps 1t takes the eye of an expert to
detect the subtle difference. The waists
are cut just trihe less decollste, the
sleeves are a shade longer, no artificial
flowers are worn as trimming on either
waist or skirt and altogether there Is much
less elaboration. In days gone by it was
thought possible TO wear bail gowns ali
winter both before and during Lent, but
In this eXtravagant age it Is thought requi-
site TO have entirely new ones rather than
10 have the others renovated. Dinner
gowns that were designed for the winter
are, however, quite suitable for the present
moment and thought IN style for months 10
come. ..kS
Certainly It would seem almost criminal
to condemn such exquisite specimens OF
the dressmaker's art to utter oblivion, for
these gowns are so perfect in detail and
finish that even the most unlearned in mat
tiers of dress cannot fail to notice their
beauty. The embroidered silks and satins,
with the bands and figures in lace entire
deuK, are marvelously beautiful in color
and design. \ pale blue embroidered IN
pink roses and palest green leaves, ana
further embellished by inserted medallions
OF rare old lace, is as a color scheme most
charming and as a gown most artistic ana
effective. The trimming is around the
lower part OF the skirt, but the design OF
the embroidery runs up toward the belt
The waist is simple as regards outline, but
is elaborate from the embroidery. The
sleeves are small. but of graceful shape
and most becoming. This model can be
copied In princess style or be IN the sep
arate waist and skirt, but IN the latter
case the line where skirt and waist JON
must be Cleverely treated, so there Is no
break, and a long line effect be carried out
Plain silk or satin or MORE brocade can
be used to evolve this design. and any pale
color or white may be chosen.
Spangled gowns seem destined to remain
IN favor forever. and now again are we
shown white nets and laces, spangled or
Ietted. while browns, greens, blues, mauyes
and pinks. with iridescent spangles the
same color. are seen everywhere. Not seen
everywhere, but only at the smartest and
most expensive dressmaking establishments
are the most superb of gray tulle or net
gowns, with dull gray or iridescent span
giles sewed close together. The effect Is
certainly unusual and the coloring 1t Is
beautiful. These most elaborate gowns are,
however hardly in the Lenten atmosphere
being only included in the most extrava-
giant and fashionable outfits. The spangied
gown made up for present wear is far sim
pier. Net and lace are combined with
spangles. merely outlining the pattern or
the lace, or are sewed on In straight lines
from waist to hem. Black or silver on
white. gold. silver or Jet on black are the
favorite combinations of ma terial and trim
ming while the style of the gown Is al
ways most simple-a wide skirt but close
fitting around the hips, not below the hips,
and then fiaring. the fare gained partly by
the way in which the skirt is cut and part
" from the ruffies and fiounces of chiffon
and lace on the underskirt.
ri, eth