davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-17
SLCe Serge wIAR Grey
EGooroLdGr9d No15lcca>s.

is, of course. that it shows the dust
more than the light cOiOrs. and the duse
seems to hurt il more, although all
these materials are not only rain but
dust proof. II might be thought OBJ
lection would be made on this score to
the velvet collar. but, strangely enough.
1t has not been, and the collar looks
very well Pongee color. or pongee in
it's natural color, is a. great favorite
this year, and the number of pongee
coats taaI are beng sold is surprising
They are lighter in weight 4than the
rubber. and in truth are too light for
anything but very warm weather. but
they are very smart and excellent as
dust coats and thsy wear forever. They
are made on the same lines as the silk
finished rubber ones. are trimmed in
the same way and have fancy buttons
more often than do the rubber coats.
Many of the pongees are made with
shoulder capes, two or three short ones
or one long one, and this cape is de-
tachabIe, so that in extremely hot
weather the coat can be worn without
it.
The pongee coats have often bright
contrasts of color in pipings Of red or
blue This, OF course. could not be used
to advantage on the rubber finished
silk ones, and. after all, while it is ef-
fective, does not seem to be so smart
as the plain coat, which challenges at
tention by its good cut and graceful
lines. and which somehow seems in
keeping with everything, Just as does
the severe lines OF the riding habit It
is contended that a pongee wrap OF this
sort is one of the most economical
garments that can be purchased, for it
can be worn on so many different occa-
sions and is perfectly possible for a
light summer evening wrap. so thar
when economy has to be consulted the
pongee coat is generally chosen. In
these days. when colored pongees are so
fashionable. there are many coIored
pongee coats of this style to be seen.
but while they are smart and becom-
ing. somehow they rather lack the gooa
points of the natural color, and cer-
tainly they do not wear so well.
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-17

brim, and the effort made to hold it in
place with the heavy veil simply added
to the discomfort of the wearer as well
as to the hideous appearance. In truth
it seemed absolutely impossible for a
woman to look smart or becomingly
gowned even If she were only to go d
short distance in what was then called
an automobile.
Now, when a party of people start
off on a trip, short or long, the women
look as smart and becomingly gowned
as though they were about to start off
for a drive in their own traps. and
while of course too elaborate style of
dress is not attractive, there is no
longer any reason why hideous gar
ments should be foisted upon the com
munity A small hat has been found
the most comfortable to wear, and
there are no end of small hats to be
had. 1t is best to have a shape over
which veil can be tied, and it is more
comfortable to have a shape that has
not wide brim at the back. But the
veil can now be put on in such fashion
as to cover the hat and head and yet
not be drawn down in thick folds and
tied under the chin. There are one or
two capital styles of veil that go over
the entire head, tie either at the back
or front, or are left hanging loose. In
these the goggles can be sewn, and the
material of the veil can be thick
enough really to protect the hat.
TAILORED STYLES FOR LONG TRIPS
There is special style of dress alb
solutely necessary in motoring, but of
course is long trip is to be taken any
sensible woman will choose carefully
some sensible. practical costume on the
tailor made order, such as will not
easily be injured by wind or dust, or
one of the long coats that are so be-
tremely attractive and bedoming In
taking long motor trip the fact must
be faced that there will be no end of
dust and dirt consequently such ma
terials as are not easily injured by the
dust are the best to choose. and the
| long coat should be made in such a way
as to leave no crevices for the dust tC
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-17
Striped Gey E.ogttsfo 5UitIFo9 -

signs. The fine check is still a great
favorite. and is made up trimmed with
bands of cloth or ribbon or in some
instances with velvet ribbon around the
foot of the skirt and on the short
jacket. One good model has quite a
lot of braiding on the coat but no
braidiDg on the skirt. Another has the
skirt elaborately braided. while the
coat is almost plain excepting in the
front, the braid that is used being a
fancy mohair about an inch in width
outlined with a narrow soutache. AS a
rule the trimming is put on the jackets
not the skirts. but the present craze
for buttons has apparently been too
much for some tailors and dressms kers,
who use them on the skirts in a most
curious fashion that is effective if at
the same time rather foolish
SHORT SKIRT MUST HANG WELL.
Perfection of cut and fit and hang is
demanded of the short skirt 1t must
needs define the figure clearly around
the hips and yet have sufficient fullness
at the back and below the hips to give
a wide flare. The circular model is a
great favorite, in spite of its we'll
known tendency to sag a the sides. but
then il is claimed ii is not very difficult
to obviate this fault. or rather to rec
tify il, when the skirt has dropped or
become long and uneven. Two inverted
pleats in front. or two box pleats and
the same at tbs back, with circular
sides. make a good skirt. il is thought,
but il may be questioned if there ever
were mere becoming fashion than the
pleated circular skirt. 1t is odd to no
tice how few skirts there are that have
not pleats introduced into them some
where or other An absolutely plain
skirt is decided novelty, and requires
not only the most perfect execution but
that il shall be worn by a perfect fig
ure. Yelling costumes are almost pre-
cisely on the same lines as the mohair.
and the very thinnest quality is worn,
as well as the heavier textures. Among
ready made costumes In yelling there
are often great bargains TO be found,
for the material is not of necessity ex-
pensive and the modern fashions are
not always so complex as might be
thought.
Corselet skirts and princess gowns
are still to be seen, but it will be no
ticed that most of the short coats are
worn with the ordinary style of skirt
and that the empire, princess and cor
selet gown are made up either in most
elaborate fashion or under painful dis
advantages eff poor workmanship and
inpossibly bad Mt. There is something
about the little jacket fashionable now,
that is certainly unusually smart and
trim. There are a number Of design
that are quite loose. but in the rnajsr-
ity OF cases there is an evident return
to the close-fitted styles that were
fashionable two or three years ago, and
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-17

clothes it is always wisest, and espe
cially at the moment to see if among
all the hundreds of fashions exhibited
there cannot be found something that
| is smart and becoming without being
conspicuous either for its color or
| shape; and when trimming is used that
shall not be conspicuous, either, except
! for its beauty.
GOOD LINES NECESSARY.
| Even the most unframed taste in
clines toward good lines rather than
to yards and yards of gaudy trimming
on badly cut and badly hung skirt.
And with this button craze it is well
to choose carefully before covering the
| skirt of what otherwise would be a
smart but simple gown with SO many
buttons as to make the wearer look
] like an advertisement for that particu-
| lar style.
! AS a happy medium between the very
short coat and the long one there is one
style that never goes out of fashion
| the medium length three quarter coat
| of tweed, cheviot or serge, with pleated
or circular skirt made short enough to
clear the ground well. This is one of
| the most popular styles for country
wear and the most useful for long
| journeys, and from year to year stays
| in fashion.
| There is no telling as to whether it
is vanity or common sense that has in
duced womankind to rise in revolt
against the idea of being made hideous
| caricatures in order to go motoring, or
a-mot oring, as it is now called. When
| the sport was first introduced it was
apparently absolutely necessary to
comfort to start out enveloped in some
hideous garment whose only excuse
was that il shed the dust, while the
! head was completely covered with a
thick veil that was tied on in such
/ fashion as to make the most beautiful
woman in the world look hideous
! enough to pose as a freak in a dime
! museum. The hat chosen had never
| any reference to the wearer or to the
purpose for which it was worn, for as
a rule it was of large size, with wide
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-17

when fastened many of these packets
fit as closely rs does the waist of the
gown. Lingerie collars and cuffs seem
in keeping with ---e season and make
such materials as plain mohair, serge
or lightweight cloth seem very smart
and fashionable. They are not appro-
pirate or effective on the heavier fig
ured materials These look best with
pique collars and cuffs. The lingerie
work on batiste, lawn or lace, such as
has been described, makes a charming
variety, and now that ecru is coming
into favor again and odd bits of lace
are being brought out that have the
yellowish tone that only old lace has
there is great rivalry as to who
shall have the most effective lingerie
sets Even with the white blouse a
coat trimmed in this fashion looks well
and quite distinct from any style that
has been fashionable for some time.
IMPORTANCE or BUTTONS.
The important part which buttons
play in the details of a fashionable cos
tune can hardly be realized until the
subject of dress is thoroughly gone
/ into. The variety in size, shape and
4 color is practically endless, and it is as
tonlshing what charming contrasts of
color can be obtained and what effect
I've trimmings can be got up entirely
1 through buttons. There are enamel
/ buttons Incidentally great many
CHINA 0nes) bone buttons, smoked pearl
buttons, cloth covered buttons. gilt.
steel, rhinestone and jet buttons. and
4 in every conceivable size. Putting sew
el al buttons in clusters seems to be a
4 fad, and although it is rather an incon-
gruous fad. anything that is effective
/ passes muster, and certainly this as
has been said, is effective And vet
with ii all no gowns are made to but
ton; they all hook. and jackets also
hook. and in such fashion that the fast
ening does not show. On collars and
cuffs rows Of tiny buttons are used.
while both collars and cuffs are fast
ened with hooks and loops although
! the buttons have apparently loops for
/ themselves Even the simplest of these
street gowns ar ornamented, in many
/ instances by several dozen buttons
Conservative taste is rapidly becom-
ing very prevalent, however, and IL is
extremely interesting to note the grow
ing demand for extremely simple fash
ions of all kinds, especially when In
! tended for street wear. The chances
are by next winter there will be quite
revolution in many respects as re-
CARDS dress As example of Quick
hats alone. At the beginning of the
season they could not be small enough.
as the summer advances there is no
limit to the size, which grows apace un-
til we are threatened with an epidemic
or the most enormous monstrosities. So
IA choosing materials ar madaIs "a.
The San Francisco call., 1906-06-17
Black TafHese Suit With
WlDtec CLOtHWaLGco9>b

enter. There should be a band at the
throat that is fastened tight. also bands
at the wrist TO hold in the sleeves, for
it is most disa greeable to have the dust
work in between the coat and the
gown
Three-quarter length coats or wraps
are preferred by many women to the
very long ones, but a medium length is
generally the most practical and rather
the Smartest, while the long one does
away with the necessity for a dust
cover. long motor coat is indispen-
sable for general use. that is. for going
out on short trips or when the automo-
bile is used instead of the family car
riage, to do duty as an evening wrap.
Dame Fashion has recognized that this
especial state of affairs called for a
special lot of new fashions, and conse-
quently there are quite number of
different shapes to choose from. while
as for materials. they are6egion. The
silk finished coats are fascinating; the
eolors are so good, and the shapes are
excellent. At almost all the large de-
partment shops, as well as at private
establishments, these coats are to be
had in all the fashionable colors. and
while they are not supposed to fit to
perfection, they certainly have refer
ance to the individual wearer. Both the
Directoire and Empire styles are popu-
lar while the long coat with fitted yoke
over the shoulders, from which the ma
.terial hangs loose in double box pleats
at the back and in straight front is
/ the style most often seen. Most OF
these coats are double breasted. and
many of them have velvet collar and
cuffs. Others again have simply the
velvet collar and the turn backed silk
cuffs.
BRIGHT REDS AND BLUES.
The colors are, as has been said, of
every hue. Most fashionable al the mo-
ment seem to be red and blue, in bright
/ shades, with white or biscuit color.
1 There are a few green's, but these are
/ too conspicuous, and black is not espe-
cially popular, although rather smart.
/ )ne reason for 1t not being so popular
New-York tribune., 1906-07-08

1f4scorTE COTTAGE AND PARE. Hairss Fxlis
Al ~ N.-Au icaa4 fqIn11ar home Tor guests without
Se1sersn JACOB ROSS. Proprietor.
New-York tribune., 1906-07-08

A pvERTIsEmENTs AND SUBSCRIPTIONS for The
n Tribune received &c their Uptown O6ics No 1864
roadvsy between s6th and S7h sfs. until O'clock D
regular Office rates until oelock p ma viz; % sth
&3d St; 15S 9Th ave. lSth g East
Ish St.; 251 West s2d 81 betwssn 1sh and sth eves;
SO iO18 ga ave. 6lst 17oo list s8th
a. Isl East l25th 766 fremont ave- ESQ 81 ave-
rear 4Ist St.: $50 Sd 30 BleeckeE
New-York tribune., 1906-07-08
"NEW ST. NICHOLAS HOTEL, :"

rets xoh.gan y. 2. Open May lB no malaria, no
y-csSsifoee Eeat Cor booklet FRANK FRYE.
New-York tribune., 1906-07-08

nroCz rs1,4Nr. r The RHaniss-s-aB rsSes az
Is SEA: AZ hours from n. Z. via I. J. 3 g.; bOoE-
1ets ~ T. representative. TOWN AND COUNTRY
BUREAU, 2s9 4th ave-. city.
New-York tribune., 1906-07-08
EDGEWOOD INN,

EDGEWOOD PAFEH-
GREENWICH CoN THE SOUND. CONN
Beautifully located resor; hotel Select patronage $50
rooms en suite baths and ell mOderD appointments
arfi service in all departments Casino. Golf Tennis
walks ana drives. In picturesque
country. % minutes from Ne" HoEk Via New Haven
." D. SIMPSON. Manager,
Asst Mgr. Laurel EOuS7s Lakewood 81 J.
New-York tribune., 1906-07-08

A DvERTIsEMENTs AND SUBSCRIPTIONS fer Tas
~ Tribune Tsccivet their Uptown OFic1 So. 1854
BEoa6wHy. bctEe.n soth sta until o'cles ,
Advertisements received eooins cic-.
regular o1es Estss pns4 S'eees . "a vtzs zos -tn
ccf a. i3o CID Acrn a. o? East
l%th al 8l Nest s-t a., between I'm art sth
2oe West lats stt Sss 81 ave-. tetseer attn aod t.t9
lJlT
stl g3I leoih Eoe Av~. $50 81
Aiss r. ect - AsA4 ne 1lssahs -
New-York tribune., 1906-07-08
COuRtYB Board WQnted.

81 any o,s as~sre-r vare roarz co-ETrv aan.
Il ire rural suTrCEltnss <1sSt s.alt.ry eonatonsS
slris E7cEsafAQ-i s<-1 .arzc1ArA
G. 2f3 West l-tl s.
a Dy-FspTIsENrssI- AID SUBSCRIPTIONS Tor rns
N grrbuns teceiSs1 trelg Uptown once l8s<
erf1 REE STt1 -1f .
SoilI&ns crr.s ae
r-xrlar O-s lEtu Cc,1ck n - Il \
aVs. ga q ta3 dtn ave. te-a se East
g4sh 20 N-ss ar g. e-.Ne-1 ia ard sta AseA
W., l-tth a. t31s 81 c-,~--n gs,s ard rTl.
50 SIS. l7c- fsta s4sA
q ic,to rtA \
500 = 81! Az Hlssohse =
New-York tribune., 1906-07-08
DuFFERIN AND COLUMBIA

DuFFERIN AND COLUMBIA,
DIGBY. NOVA SCOTIA.
with every convenience CGisins the
best write tOE fielder. G. A. JORDAN Mgr.
a pyERTIsRMENTs AND SUBSCRIPTIONS Ger IN.
N Tribune received thslF Uptown Once. no 1884
between 3oh Anc 9Th sts. until o'elOek
Advertisements received a. the following bEaneh oees
regular Cr-ce rates u-tN o'clock Viz- 2'S
ave. 2Se a. rs e,h ave. cor l2th s.. 1s
itsh 81; ~ West s55 =, between Itn snd sta ayss;
"a ave- slkt lTGs ave, ss,h
isz ave-.
eeas Ola s-l 6oA "a ayA1 no 6eacku =
The Richmond palladium. (Richmond, Ind.) 1906-1907, 1906-10-08
Games Played Yesterday
Were the Last in the Hard
Race for remnants.
NOW FOR CHAMPIONSHIP
HEAVY HlTTERS AND GENERAL
PLAY WHILE sox PIN FAITH IN
PITCHERS.

With the games yesterday the big
leagues baseball season came TO an
end. In the National League the re-
suit for the past month was never
in doubt, the Chicagos practically hav
ing the pennant cinched four weeks
before the season ended. On the 9TH
required the last week of play to de-
eide the winner. New York was a
close runner up to Chicago and for
time the Highlanders had a chance
to win the coveted flag. The White
Sox, however, by playing a strong
game, held the slight advantage they
had over New York, and by their vic
tory on Thursday won the premier
honors in that league.
All that now remains to be PLAYED
before the curtain is rung down on
the season for 1906 is the games for
the worlds championship, which will
begin on Tuesday. On paper this Sc
rieS between the two Chicago teams
will be hard fought. Both teams are
pretty evenly matched, the White Sox
If anything having a slight advantage
as far as pitchers are concerned.
This advantage, however, is more
than offset by the Colts in the batting
end of the game, as they are heavier
hitters among the Colts than among
the White Sox
AS the Giants placed their reliance
on Mathewson last year so also will
the two teams place their hopes for
the premier honors of the baseball
world in Walsh and Brown, who have
l.
their respective teams. They will prac
tically pitch most of the games in the
series and both are considered the
equal of New York's star twirler
What betting has been done favorS
the Colts winning out, but it is case
of even money and take your choice.
The Richmond palladium. (Richmond, Ind.) 1906-1907, 1906-10-08
i q me-.


WOO may talk as. you wish of the lad.
der. of efarfe
Il And speak of the men who are Ia
nous: e.
You may talk as. you will of time hon.
ored namet&
And preach : that no setback should
With money success, in the city is gagged.
And the dollar mark circles our brows,
But I'd rather in history's record be
AS the man with the prize winning
cows
Some men have earned fame with a pop
And some bt:s uniting trust.
And some have gr6wn famous by hook or
by crock
All men are not kindly and just.
But give me the fame and contentment he
Who needs. not the little word big"
But down through 1fe's valley so peace
fully goes
What need for this hustle and hustle of
life.
This struggle TO build up a name,
This city routine and perpetual strife,
This search for the bubble called fame?
Then give me the peace of the country I
pray.
The glories of town you may keep
And let II be said that I'm showing today
The blue RIBBON. prize winning sheep.
A farmer 4 Well. yes. If you'll have IL
that way,
A farmer i wish I could be,
a farmer who smiles on the birth of
day
AS friend it's pleasure to see;
Who rises at morn without hatred or
blame
At peace with the world and all men,
And contsntedly rests with the halo OF
fame
That IS his for q prize winning hen.
Detroit Free Press
The Richmond palladium. (Richmond, Ind.) 1906-1907, 1906-10-08
At THE THEATERS
"Behind the Mask"-Gennett.


Few communities are entirely free
from the type of men portrayed by
Edmund Day in his newest play, Be
hind the Mask, which will be pre-
scented at the Gennett tomorrow
night. The social mask is called up
on to cover many of the indiscret-
ions of youth, both farcical and trag-
ic. In John Gresham, Mr.. Day pre-
sents a character that in some degree
has it's counterpart in the great ma
jority of men, for who is there in
whose life there has not been that
which were forgotten.
Vaudeville at the Phillips.
Beginning this afternoon sparkl-
ing new bill will be presented in
vaudeville at the New Phillips and
with the return of cooler weather it
it expected the patronage will be ey-
en- more liberal than it has been, al
though it held up remarkably well
through the entire summer season.
1t is expected that Gaylor and Graft.
comedy boomers in THE Tramp's
Mistake will prove one of the high
places on the program, as they come
HSIdIueu DIS enter tdlueIS VI L1tlCu dD-
ility. Harland and Rollison, original
musical grotesques, also are spoken
of as among the best in this line on
the vaudeville circuits. In addition
there will be comedy acrobatic
sketch, upside-down dancing, illustra-
ted songs and motion pictures.
little Johnny Jones"-Gennett.
Little Johnny Jones', the Ameri-
can jockey will play return engage
ment at the Gennett Wednesday
night. Geo. NJ Cohan, its author. has
written many successful plays, but
it is doubtful if any of them equal
Little Johnny Jones" as to bright
dialogue and fascinating musical
numbers. The same supporting COM
pany that has assisted in the success
of Little Johnny Jones' since its in
ception will be in evidence.
"A Desperate chance"-Gennett.
1t is said that never has greater
success attended any theatrical pro-
duction than that which has been ac-
corded "A Desperate Chance" the
attraction to be at the Gennett Fri.
day night While telling the story
of the Biddle Brothers and their es-
cape by the aid of the Jail warden's
wife from the Pittsburg prison, the
play embraces a great moral lesson
alike. It is a melo drama that ap-
peals to all, irrespective of age and
class.
The Richmond palladium. (Richmond, Ind.) 1906-1907, 1906-10-08
Trust to Nature.

Il great many Americans, both men
and women, are thin, pale and puny, VIII
poor circulation, because they nave M
treated their stomachs by hastyAeating
or too much eating, by consuming alco-
holic beverages, or by too close conflne-
ment TO home, office or factory. and IN
in natural way before they can rectify
their earlier mistakes. The muscles IN
many such people, in fact in every weary,
thin and thin looded person. do their
work with great difficulty AS result
fatigue comes early, is extreme and lasts
long. The demand for Dutritive AID Is
ahead of the supply To insure perfect
health every tissue. bone. nerve ana
tain materials and return to it certain
others II is necessary to prepare the
stomach for the work of taking up from
the food what is necessary TO make good,
for the remedy. There were certain
roots known to the Indians of this
country before the advent OF sshe whites
which later came to the knowledge OF
rapidly in professional flavor for the cure
of obstinate stomach<and liver troubles
These are found toFbe safe and yet Ger
tain in their cleansing and lnvlgoratlng
These are: Golden Seal root. Queens
root. Stone root. Bieodroot. Mandrake
root Then there is Black Cherryb bark.
The medicinal principles residing in these
native TOOLS WQtn tAIEdCttu with Ely
crime as a solvent make the most reliable
and efficient stoIhach tonic and liver in
vigorater, when lcombined in just the
right proportions, as in Dr; Pierce,s
Golden Medical discovery. Where there
is bankrupt vit4lity such as nervous
exhaustion, bad nutrition and thin
blood, the body acquires vigor and the
nerves, blood arS4 all the tissues feel the
favorable effect Of this sovereign remedy.
Although some physicians have been
aware of the high medicinal value of the
above mentioned plants, yet few have
used pure glycerine as a solvent and
usually the doctors prescriptions called
for the ingredients in varying amounts,
tCfth alcohol.
The Golden Medical Discovery is
scientific preparation compounded of the
glyceric extracts of the above mentioned
vegetable ingredients and contains no
alcohol or harmful habit-forming drugs.