Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1906-11-18

blouse 1t means more
work naturally, but it is work
that is repaid a thousandfold in
the satisfaction of sporting waist that is
Enthusiastically not picked-up on bargain
counter.
The furore for these embroidered blouses
shows not the slightest sign of abating-in
fact. it is. if anything, on the increase. A
oft of handwork-satin stitch. French laid
work Hedebo broderie Anglaise. or even
the easy outlines-will give air to the
simplest little costume
But alas, this air" If 1t must be pur-
chased, is Very costly luxury-a luxury to
be dreamed of but scarcely attained by the
woman whose allowance can by no posi-
bility be stretched to cover the extra frills
SO dear to the feminine heart.
Fortunately. many a girl-poor in this
worlds goods-has the blessed compensa-
tion of being "knacky able to do for her
self things that her Weather friends must
buy at round sum. For the woman who
Is good needewoman therefore, the num-
Der and variety of embroidered blouses in
her wardrobe only limited by the time
at her command-and possibly the strength
Of her eyes.
But even getting the material stamped
Is extra item of cost that must often
be considered. Just here we come to the
rescue with designs so unique and attrac-
tive that every woman seeing them is
sirsightway impelled to utilize them at
once.
The blouse pattern given today, for in
stance. is something quite out of the ordi-
nary. Graceful and effective. it yet is not
elaborate to make its completion
almost a lifework. This is the secret of
really good designing-to achieve the best
results at the least expenditure of time.
The combination of scallop. bow knots
and floral spray has been skillfully united
into a harmonious whole that lends itself
to the beautifying of many different ma
tes1als.
1t is equally good done in fine cottons on
the sheer lingerie blouses that are worn
AT every season, worked in silks. either
colored or white, on crepes and fine GAUGES.
or carried out in ribbon work on smooth,
lightweight cloths or silks.
The method of the embroidery may be
equally varied The scallop is, of course,
bRttOnholed This should be done as close
ID and smoothly as possible. the edges
being first heavily padded with a rather
thick. soft cotton. By the way. the quick
est way to pad q detached scallop like this.
where loose cording cannot be con-
veniently used is TO fill it in with sew
eral rows of rather large chain stitch.
The bow knots may be padded and worked
over and over in the plain satin stitch,
they may be heavily outlined and seeded
ikickly. This latter method is particularly
effective when colOrS are used, the edge
being either couched or outlined with
gold or silver thread and the inside filled
in with color
The flowers if intended for lingerie
waist may be treated in several ways.
Each petal may be embroidered in satin
stitch. with a pierced eyelet center. or the
Center may be in the raised embroidery and
the petals first around closely, the
center slashed and turned back and the
edges worked smoothly over and over as
for English cut work.
The leaves are prettiest done solidly but
may be outlined and seeded. or else worked
into a Slightly slanting stitch in a central
vein.
Do the stem in a twisted outline sketch
OF. II time is no object. and you really can
emhrotder we'll work them in the very fine
oyer-aud-Over stitch to be seen on the eX-
uuislte French lingerie.
IS
Color is so much used again this winter
that this design is specially good when
worked either in pastel shades in the nat
uraI tones of flower and foliage. with the
sc&Ilops and bow knot slightly deeper
tiHS than the flowers: carried out In self
tints of the fabric embroidered. For in
stance. pale gray crepe would be charm
Ing worked in one or two harmonizing tones
Of gray. little silver thread being intro
dured to brighten it.
An interesting feature of this design Is its
provision for the separate yoke now so
mseh in favor This is applied under the
scsilops, and may either be sewed in or
may lie fastened by the tniest hooks and
Loops. The hooks can easily be concealed
under the scallops. This will permit sew
erai different Jokes being used.
TIE Jokes are specially good this season
either in the Irish lace worked in braids
that so many women enjoy making or in an
aIlover Valenciennes. This latter Is given
an added touch of beauty by being en-
hresdered with heavy dots in different sizes
froN coin to pin dot.
Another charming yoke is made of mar
rox torchon embroidery joined either with
Tine Valenciennes beading or a tiny Swiss
insertion. very sheer and fine
la applying this pattern. place the ma
terni smoothly and right side up on large
board or old table. Cover with a sheet of
impression paper. shiny side down; put the
pattern on that being sure that the center
Of The yoke is exactly straight on the ma
terial and fasten with small thumb tacks
IN hold the goods perfectly firm Then
traee with hard pencil.
The dotted lines around the back have
no,hing to do with the design. only mark
Inc the division of the pattern. To trace It,
place the Impress IN paper face down. on
he right side of the material, and fold