The evening times. [volume] (Grand Forks, N.D.) 1906-1914, 1906-11-13
The New Tailored Suit.

AS Suto Sil0o VI year TUG uEoL COu.
sideration of every would-be we'll
gowned woman is the smart tailor
made walking suit. Just now this
costume receives more constant wear
than any other one in the outfit. and
naturally the dress that Is most fire.
quently seen should be most becoming
and be quite perfect in color and
design. A dress that must needs be
given an unusual amount of wear
should be Of some serviceable color
and one that Is not too conspicuous,
else the wearer will be wearied of 1t
very coon. It Is a mistake to think
that any old gown will do at this
time Of year, and it never pays to be
stability dressed. so that an attrac-
tive autumn street suit should be pur-
chased Immediately upon returning to
the city. 1t Is most short-sighted to
don q winter costume so early in the
season, for by the first of the year 1t
will surely have become shabby, but
II desired the autumn gown can be
made up with the intention of having
an extra interlining added somewhat
later on so that the dress can serve
for rainy weather or be worn under
a long fur coat.
Simple Cloth suits.
There Ia an evident desire for
simplicity this year many the short
cloth suits. in all probability the inten-
ton being to keep this dress quite dis
tinct from the more elaborate after
noon costumes, which will have a
long train skirt and jacket with short
sleeves. It. Is decreed that sleeves
shall remain short during the coming
winter, and all the model gowns have
accordinly attractive little fancifully-
trimmed sleeves of elbow or three
is astonishing how many exceedingly
smart tailor-made coats have long.
plain sleeves finished at the wrist
with a wide velvet or embroidered
cuff. Long sleeves. however, are only
seen on the really severely plain
jackets, the short coats being gener-
ally made up with sleeves good
three-quarters in length. With this
length Of sleeve brown and tan gloves
are permissible with almost every
color, but the gloves must be selected
carefully, for there are so many diff
ferent tones of brown. some Of which
are quite dreadful with a dark blue or
green suit, while others. again, are
decidedly smart.
There are so many, many styles and
lengths Of coats fashionable this year
that instead of rendering the selection
of the model easier the task Is, II any,
thing, doubly difficult, for 1t is so hard
to tell exactly which model is going
to prove most becoming and remain in
style longest. To choose from, there
are the long Directoire coat, the short
little Empire Jacket. the perfectly fit-
ting Louis XVI. coat, with its attrac-
tive vest of embroidered cloth and
satin, and then the numberless Eton,
blouse and bolero models, besides the
ever-fashionable plain-fitted or semi
fitted three-quarter length coat, quite
untrimmed, and worn with short
plated walking skirt. There are many
severely simple cloth coats of any
length desired, and there are again
most attractive models made up elabor-
ately with corduroy or velvet and eff
fectively braided. Braiding forms an
important part of the trimming this
year, on some models fine soutache
cloth being used. on others wide silk
braid, while again braids of all widths
will be effectively combined. 1t is
generally accepted that the braid
should be of the same color as the
cloth and black used only on black.
The Directoire style of suit is unlike
anything that has been worn for some
time and possesses a certain individ-
uality that is alawys desired. Never
the less unless there are many cloth
gowns in the outfit the long Directoire
coat Is not an advisable one. While
smart. the lines are a little too un-
graceful and the coat too long for a
regular street dress. With Directoire
coat the skirt Is generally plain, and
to be really correct should be long,
which is another objection to this style
of jacket for a walking suit.
There seems to be no limit to the
fexibility OF the Empire model, for at
one time 1t will be seen in long,
loose wrap and again In a short little
jacket that Is pretty we'll fitted in to
the figure and both are acknowledged
to be pure types of the one style. At
any rate, the Empire style of dress has
been SO Obstinately insisted upon by
the leading modistes that suggestion
of its design is now to be recognized
In u large majority of coats. wraps.
house dresses and ball gowns. There
is one style of Empire that is quite
popular for the morning: this is q hip
length jacket fitted in tight in back,
but above the waist line so as to give
the regular Empire effect, but brought
down almost to the natural waist line
in front. Below the belt is a short
double ruffle or skirt. which is flaring
rather than full over the hips. In
front is little embroidered vest of
velvet of satin, whichever Is pre-
ferred, and the collar and cuffs are of
the same embroidered material. A
pretty vest may be made of light tan
cloth with border of passementerie
Of Persian embroidery. With Jacket
of this style plain circular skirt may
be worn or some plated design that
is II possible somewhat new, as the
average plated skirt has become
decidedly monotonous, pretty and be-
coming as 1t may be.
Corduroy and velvet trim many of
the new models and are often most
attractive made up together One par
ticularly pretty dress was of plain
colored cloth. the skirt trimmed with
medallions of corduroy with soutache
braid, while the jacket was composed
almost entirely of corduroy, but re-
heved by wide panels of the cloth
covered with an all-over design in
soutache braid. The Jacket was b
short Empire model. falling only to the
waist and semi-fitted. In the center OF
the back was a wide braided cloth
panel and in front the same panel was
arranged so as to fasten almost over
the fancy vest, which was of palest