Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-11-25
FROM ACROSS THE SEA
THE NEWEST FOREIGN MODES IN
MEMS DRESS.
What is Being Worn and What Will
Be in Good Taste in the En-
glish Capital
London Cor. the Haberdasher.

LOnuOH Cor tne 1aberuasuer.
Whenever the very general vogue OF
brown in suitings wears itself out, 1t is
pretty easy to perceive that the next fash
ion will be for good class of worsteds IN
deep indigo blue, with a line pattern, not
very pronounced, in white. The lines viii
be so fine as to give an effect of a lighter
blue yarn having been employed. l do no.
think that silk adnlixture will play any part
in this class of cloths. There has been a
good deal of mercerized cotton used in the
cheap grades posing as silk-mixed cloth,
and this has tended to act against the
vogue of real silk mixtures; but these cot
ton blendings seen at their worst when
the thread is white, and even when real
silk is used, the most favorable effects were
those obtained by a color. In the brown
tweeds, the silk was generally yellow or
red. 1t is very likely that silk admixtures
in woollen cloth will get revival when
cashmere follows worsted in the spring, and
I think that then the white patterned, quiet
blue suit will give place to one of the same
color with somewhat boloer pattern IN
red. The whites will be all very haZy in
design and the pattern. such as it is, Will
all run one way; butt when red lines are
presently used they will be holder, though
still fine but will form large square,
perhaps an inch and half wide.
Blue for Cravats.
One effect of the fashion for blue which
I see reason to anticipate will be in the de-
partment of cravats. 1t must be distinctly
understood that when 1 refer to blue suit
ngs 1t is entirely of the future that write
This fashion has not yet actually made its
appearance; I am only telling you what L
expect. If 1 am highland only the future
cal bear me out or dscredit my Judgment
there will be marked revival of the taste
for colored cravats in plain self styles AT
present the tendency is all the other way,
and during the next few months bold de-
sign silk will be rather prevalent, as IN
deed they already are. But the blue suit
will go best with a plain colored cravat,
not necessarily red, though red Will be
the most prevalent choice. / think that 1t
will be full, wine red, not scarlet. Then,
presently, when red-patterned blue suits
come in (as 1 feel quite convinced that they
Wild these red ties will all go by the board,
and probably design patterns in bars, and
in light colors will succeed. All this is a
long way ahead and the vogue of brown is
still so strong that the immediate modtfica-
tions of 1t are quite easy to report. The
plain, self-herringbone style has gone out
of fashion. Earlier it was much the most
stylish thing Bold and not inconspicuous
patterns are now being worn, and there is
considerable admixture of green in most OF
Them homespun styles adapted to cheviots
being employed. The long run of Harris
tweeds exercised an influence on patterns
long after the revival of the Australian
wool industry gave all nOneSpunS a set
back, and now the same influence Is, in the
oldest manner, reasserting ITSELF and is
decidedly to be reckoned with just now.
Evening Dress.
Evening dress styles will not. as I think,
undergo much change this winter The use
of braid down the trousers will certainly
not become more general, and indeed 1
think that it is every year becoming less
correct. In the spring, dinner jackets were
rather frequently made with a step-collar,
but they will now go back to the plain roll
collar like a. smoking jacket. The reason
generally assigned for this change Is that
it affords agreeable contrast with the
dress coat. But as no one wears a dress
coat and dinner jacket at the same time,
it is not easy to see why a contrast should
be found here; you cannot contrast one
thing with another unless they are both
present. The real reason why the smart
set is going to revert to the plain collared
dinner jacket, is that the entirely undress
character of that garment was felt to need
marking The smoking-jacket effect of the
roll collar naturally accentuates this point,
and that is why the change has been de-
creed by the men whose Instructions to
their tailors determine, in matters like this,
the trend of the mode. The kind of collar
for the dress coat is the close-stepped or
peak pattern, and silk facings are carried
to the edge, not merely to the button hole.
OF course, only the lapels are faced; the
aGtuaI collar Is OF pain clOIn. Dress waist
coats will be sngle-breasted, whether
white or black, and cut rather wide open,
with however, a distinct point at the mid
die. The last button will be nearer the bot
tom of the waistcoat than 1t was last year
and the corners will be cut very snugly
and unobtrusively.
Still the fashion in dress wafstcoats Is
standard and therefore stationary. The odd
tiles introduced from time to time are
merely fugitive variations of the mode.
nothing else.
Frock overcoats, so far as I can see, are
not at all likely to be increasing In favor
this season. The beaver Chesterfield will
not tolerate a rival, and its many conye-
nient characteristics make 1t highly unuec-
essary that it should. A Chesterfield can
be worn with bowler hat on occasion;
the frock overcoat looks abominable with
out a silk hat. The Chesterfield Is good
for night and day alike, and for all occa-
sions. The possessor of frock overcoat
may sometimes find it necessary to HE him
home and change 1t. I think that frock
overcoats will very likely continue to be
made for smart racing wear in chilly wealth.
err but do not believe that they will have
much vogue as a society garment Fashion
of muffier Is often the most generally used
but no one looks very odd in different
sort. Exclusive Charvet, who now has
shop on Bond street Gas / told you when
he opened it is a great man on mufflers,
and extremely heavy Lyons silk, in rich,
heavy designs are what he favors; but there
seems to be this year q tendency to go In
for wraps that are ample Instead of heavy
attaining warmth by supcrfmposed thick
ncsses-in bandanna patterns. However
these will not be universal, because as
have said, no kind of muller ever does or
really can become universal
Hats, Collars and Ties.
Alpine hats in a sort OF greenisI gray are
rather prominent. The brown bowler {derby)
is decidedly .'off. !" and so are all hats in
which the riband and binding form any