davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun., 1905-08-20

as A bottom finish. fine dotted lawn
flounce. lace trimmed, " frequently found
upon plain lawn pettiooet, and modal
Iona, round. square or diamond ahaped
made Of finest tucked batistc or lawn, are
sct into hounccs with narrow yalencionnes
insertion.
The mcdlllons of sheer swiss or batiste
embroidered in fine floral design, which
give much tho same effect o. fine hand
embroidery. are greatly used IA the con
struction OF petticoat tlouncos and genuine
hand embroidery Of tho exquisite sort seen
upon baby clothes appears upon many
of the most costly skirts, in the form OF
gerlands, sprigs and trailing vines and
blossoms.
For the cheaper lingerie petticoats,
embroidery Is, perhaps, given preference
over lace and 1t certainly wears better,
though, If the embroidery is of good quality,
the founce of 1t costs more at first than
simple lace trimmed flounce.
Some women make hounces for their
own pettiooats, and by putting labor into
them achieve exquisite results at little
actual cost, save the value Of their time and
work. Such founcing, whether for petit
coats or drawers. makes dainty pickup
work, more practical than the average
fancy work, and it Is an easy matter to find
a seamstress who with the aid Of good
French pattern can make the foundation
skirt and drawers and attach the founoes
and frilla
The sun., 1905-08-20

have gone home to sit up studylng part
for rehearsal next day" Well might he cay
Those, were the days when an actor had to
work like the proverbial niger"
The late Wilson Barrett was blessed with
such a remarkable memory that he was letter
perfect in a part OF average length after
reading IL through twice; and to his last days.
it is said could repeat without prompting
any part he had ever. played. But, 80 far
of character. he would study the most in
significant impersonation. even a walking
part. with as much care as II he were about
to appear In a first performance OF Hamlet "
before London audience
Beerbohm Tree confesses that he has
bad memory. II never sit down to learn
bad mcmo-y, :hcuS.. |: has improved 0! late.
and my words just come to mo In the theater
rs read them. ] do no work away from
the thsateT. neithtr do ! think out thing,s
am unable to-" From which. statement II
is fair Inference that Mr.. Trees memory
is not such bad one. after all
George Grossmith's memory Is little short
OF phenomenal and yet on more than
one occasion it has failed him lamentably.
Some years ago ne was giving an entertain
ment before Queen Victoria at, Balmoral.
and at her Majcsty's request sang his popular
song, You should See Me Dance the Polka.
He sailed away smoothly until he came toward
the end Of the second verse. when. although
he came to a full and ignoIninious stop. He
continued playing in the hope that theewords
would come TO him. but not bit OF t-they
refused to come, and, to the Queens great
amusement he had to begin the. verse again
before ho could oUImoune tho obofA0
The sun., 1905-08-20

c me unit Of labor required to cut and polish
tkem for gems but enhances their useful
ness In engraving, glass cutting and other
pursuits. Wc now got fer 81 q carat bettor
bort tran formerly commanded g."
Tho total exports Of diamonds from the
CAPE of Good Hope at one time amounted
to nearly 4,OC0,0O0 carats In year. The
last year that the total amounted to o"cr
3,CcO ,0C0 carats. az official figures indicate,
was 1903. BY 1903 the Capc exports had
declined to 26S6,5s7 carats.
year or so ago an estimate was made
that the worlds demand for diamonds In
valuation was 25,GoO, 600 year and that the
De Beers mines made profit each year Of
s12,5OO,oOO. An official report Of the De
Beers mines for the year ended June 30,
1908, said that its output amounted in value
to s24, 1882 SEQ, and last year, Notwithstanding
advances In prices, this figure was barely
reached because production was less.
The usual estimates have credited the
De Beers mines with providing from 90
to s5 per cent. OF the gem diamonds Of the
world, and accordingito New York importers
the syndicate still holds this commanding
position, and will continue to do so until
greater supplies Of fine diamonds are re-
vealed in fields beyond the De Beers control
than are now in sight.
The sun., 1905-08-20
WOMAN PLASTIC FIGURE.
AS TIE FASHIONS CNiNGE, so
DOES TNE FEMININE FORM.
Trouble Made for the shirt waist Models
by This Seasons SHIFT From the Ions
straight Front TO tho Round Waist
Exercises That Change the Figure.

| TrOuDic MADE Tor the SHIRT waist Models
by This Seasons SHIFT From the Ions
straight Front TO tho Round Waist
Exercises That Change the Figure.
AWe had our troubles last year" said a
shirt waist model in fashionable shop
But this season we are indeed up against
It, The fashion has changed and we must
change our forms with It.
Il began as shirt waist model in the
days when the long straight front was
fashionable. am five feet eight inches
tall, which is just about right for mode l.,
in fine proportion throughout. And have
a small head and good face.
when ! started out as model every
body said: What an exquisite figure.
And then I would pull my waist down
longer and straighter in the front and
make myself more erect and longer in the
hip line. was the ideal Of two years ago.
"This season, however, the figure has
changed. The fashionable feminine figure
these days has little round waist. Women
wear the round girdle and the belt line is
distinctly marked. 1t Is a return to the
figure Of long ago, though the waist is not
laced as yet.
we models must change our shapes to
conform to the new lines. That can be
accomplished In from ten days to two
months..
ITO accomplish the change the mode
first gets a corset OF the exact kind she
needs. Then she presses her hips and her
waist with her hands all day long, in that
way gradually lowering her waist line. {.
Next she praotises deep breathing exercises
faithfully. These lower the waist line as
nothing else will.
-The model takes the flesh of her hips
by curious kind Of massa &c which is not
massage at all, correctly speaking. She
reduces her hips by pinching and shaking
them.
AT the beginning of this, season the
shirt waist models we're filed with con-
sternation. Most of them retired from
the field and became cloak models. But
the industrious ones remained. They were
willing to work hard in order to get the
new figure.
eight inches tall A girl can be little
taller if she 80 desires, but she must not
be much shorter. The taller the woman
the more becoming her shirtwaist Is to
1The ideal figure has SO inch bust. Say
what you please about the 80, the ideal
"The best models have hips Of IL or IS
inches. This may seem large, but it is only
just right for woman OF five feet eight or
nine inches. If her hips are smaller she
will look lanky. If larger, she must reduce
her weight.
MANY of the new waists are made with
out stocks and the model must have a
pretty throat as we'll as a thin one.
\ @Once upon time had thin throat
too thin-and it was sunbulned. noticed
that it was not popular. Every time I
put on a waist some one would say, I
The sun., 1905-08-20

don't like the neck
"One day I understood the trouble. And
for three weeks fagiened my throat and
massaged away the lines and tried to make
my neck plump and white.
"The result was soon apparent. As |
tried on The shirt waists the people would
exclaim, What pretty neck! How beauti-
fully the waist fl, d around he throat And
they would add,I think will buy the waist,
as il looks 30 nice around the neck
my home trea' ment was great success.
I sold the waifs.
aThen I had to take my hands in two
I soaked them and l scrubbed them. l
bathed them in an oatmeal preparation ,
and l rubbed item with bleaches, taking
of freckles. spots, rough places and every
thing that made them unsightly.
Not long afterward a woman putting
a short waist on me, said: That Is lovely
waist. It looks 30 pretty around the hands
The cuffs are so handsome and they set
of your white hands so daintily,' Nearly
bursting with pride, sold her the waist.
"The model these days must have an
accommodating waist line. When ! am
trying on a dip front, long waist, ! have
a waist measurement of "a inches. This is
with the straight front.
But when am putting on new round
waist, with the belt going straight around
me, can throw of nearly five inches. !
lace little and there you are. 1t is easy
when you know how, but you must be a ,
athlete and we'll up In physical culture to
know Whea and how 70 Do u. ~
The sun., 1905-08-20
GATHERING HERBS.
Maine Boasts An Abundance Of Old Fas1p
toned Homo Remedies.
From the Bangor Neus.

From the Bangor Ncus.
August is the month when our very GOOD
and very healthy and very long lived grand
mothers used to 60 forth to the stubble fields.
the swamps and the woods and pastures and
COLLECT various samples and approved herbs.
and having dried them in the shade. slowed
them away to be brought out and used u
sickness, 1t Ia hard to make complete list
there are so many Of them.
OF the herbs used for driving diseases.s
the commonest and most approved was
pennyrsyal, which Grows In open and nearly
bare spaces among old fields. and which can
be discovered by It's smell as well as BY tto
pungent taste and its small blue blossonnA.
Near tho brooks one can find spearmint n
nearly every country town, and In many places
there is peppermint as well. Catnip 10 harder
to discover, though II has escaped from cult1p
walton and grows wild about many old homeA.
Goldthread roots are dug from dry cradle.
knolls and dried for canker and sore throat
The broad leaves Of burdock are dried and
nut away for making foot plasters for such
"a have bad colds. Thoroug ghwort II oulled
from mucky swamps and dried. to be steepsd
later on and given to those who have bad
coughs.
Lobella, which is found among open p.s-
seedpods sna ts ssss
swollen limbs, .Wintersreen. which shovs
VIC woods, is collected TO bs steeped for oolds
pulled from the back yard aud saved 'tof
putting in hot water when one has his fess
soaked. The blossoms Of Mayweed, are
! taken as O. substitute for sahrop. and for
| raising rude blisters on affected Limbs or
chests. The leaves OF the checkerberry and
| lection for the making OF warming and sooth.
| ing teas. Great fat chokecherries are PICKED
| and placed In bottles with new rum, and keDt
And nearly ali these ussful and approved
EemedIes are found y best oopdition n Asins
The sun., 1905-08-20
DRIVEN AWAY BY PROPHECY.
Families Leave Marion Because Woman
Predicted Disaster.
From the 81. Loui. Globe Dem oc

From the 81. Louie Globe-De'n ocrdf.
Hundreds of families are leavin9 Marion.
Ind. on account OF a prediction by Mrs Viola
pownell that the city Is soon to be visited by a
disaster, the full extent o! which she does
not know or exactly In what form it Is to come.
Some time ago, however. she prophesied
that all evil places would be uprooted and
that much of the worst elemsn, Of the city
would be scattered since that time 90 : OF
been closed, and all gamblers have. been run
out of the place, The fulllllment Of this pre-
is Implicit reliance In what she says. and
many are fleeing from the wrath to come,
Il do not know in what form this .iudg..
abe said to-day, but I have seen the signs
in the heavens In the form OF stars that shone
like electric lights. and the day OF the vista
themsolvOa now.
The sun., 1905-08-20


exactly the same, whereas when one
was placed on top of the other the
under block was the heavier, for the reason
that gravitation decreases as objects re-
cede from the center of the earth. That
process represented delicacy in weighing
Of one part in hundred million, and in
order to show the difference represented by
moving the blocks as indicated it would be
necessary to weigh to about one ten
thousandth Of a grain.
"In our bureau of standards it is now
possible to measure temperature to mil
lionth Of degree. One OF the recent de-
terminations in measuring rays OF heat
takes as the unit the amount OF heat thrown
of by a candle. six miles distant. The
instrument used to record these radi-
ations Is an exceedingly simple affair, con-
sisting of a very light mica dis dohca;eiy
suspended in bulb from which most OF
the air has been exhausted. When the
radiations from the candle fall on this disk
they heat it su Efficiently to force 1t back.
"As rule, light lends itself very nicely
to extremely fine measu rements. 1t Is no
trick at all to calculate accurately the
thousandth part of the width Of human
hair, or even something that is almost in
visible to the naked eye. such as spider
thread. this being possible through the
interference Of waves of light. II we have
two systems Of waves which come together
so that the crests Of one system coincide
with the crests of the other the two svstems
are then in step, as we say. and help each
other. On the other hand. II for any reason
one OF them Is trifie behind they come
In out Of step and nsutraliss each othsr.'
The sun., 1905-08-20
DIAMOND SUPPLY SMALLER.
DEALERS REPORT A SCiRCITI
or FINE STONES.
Some Of The,n Believe That the output Of
the DE Beers Mines Is Diminishing
Expectations Said Not to Have Bcen
EIliiled by the New Prriuier Mine.

| some OF Tnein bClleNe That the output Ol
the DE Beers Mines Is Diinlnlshlna 4
. Expectations Said Not to Have Bcen
Fulflled by the New Prainier Mine
Diamond importers returning to New
York from the European market tell stories
Of increasing difficulties in getting stones
In the sizes and grades suitable for the
American market. Those who buy directly
from the LEndon syndi cate which controls
the trade say that, notwithstanding the
development of new mines, the output
Of the crystals in quality up to the standard
Of gems Is diminishing.
Importers who deal with the syndicate
larger quantities Of diamonds then they
are getting. The importers pay cash before
they get the stones and the syndicate fixes
it's own prices. 1t is argued, therefore, that
the corporation would certainly release
more gems II it had them.
Not infrequently an importer Is disap-
pointed by not receiving consignment Of
gems when he expects them. The ex-
PLANTATION, coming from the ether side, is
that the supplies at Cape Colony and Natal
have not been sufficiently large to make
the regular weekly shipments as formerly,
80 that there nave been arrivals OF Ola mondS
only every other week.
At first glance this scarcity Of fine dia-
monds seems inconsistent with the statistics
given out by the customs authorities at New
York, showing. month after month, in
creases in the valuation Of precious stones
and pearls imported to this city. While
the Appraiser OF the Port does not In his
statistics separate the diamonds from other
precious stones and from pearls, yet it is
known that diamonds are the really large
item in the total.
For the fiscal year ended June 80 the
aggregate was upward Of $4,000. 900. this
being gain Of about $e, ,OO0, 900 for the year.
Since then the July figures have been made
public, showing continuation Of the enor-
nous importation. breaking all previous
records.
Show these figures to an importer for the
purpose Of convincing him that people are
getting more diamonds than formerly, and
he will shake his head. He will tell you
that the valuation is higher, but not the
number Of carats.
Diamonds Of the size and quality which
The sun., 1905-08-20
FINEST or MEASUREMENTS.
Wonderful Work Done by the Government
bureau or Standards.

1t seems rather a remarkable thing that
whereas the Governments Of England
France and Germany have for years pro-
yided extensive laboratories for the pur-
pose of maintaining correct standard OF
weights, measurements, force, purity. DO,
1t is only recently that similar Office has
been establishd in Washington. This 1Bu-
reau of Standards" as it is called, is now
very perfect and complete, however, says
Tit Bits, and may be made Use OF by all
who desire information on any scientific
point coming under the head Of weights
and measures.
II you desire, for instance, to know in
what degree the heat Of your body expands
the works OF your watch all you have
to do is to write to Washin gton and the
officials there will have great pleasure In
relieving your anxiety on the point, though
pied in working out the knotty problem.
In a lecture delivered some time ago
Prof. William Hallock OF Columbia Uni
of Standards, gave some interesting par
ticulars relative to the advantages and
value OF, the new institution. Should you
be a purchaser of scientific Instruments,
incandescent lamps, hydraulic machinery,
6c., and wish to know whether they con-
lOT1n 10 U06 btdHudAo lOCoStAAASu Al oOucA
parts OF the world, you may send them to
"asiin ston and receive all the informa-
ain 1873 said Prof. Hallock, in his re-
cent address, "there was established in
Paris, through the cooperation Of several
countries, including the United States,
what was known as the International
Metric Commission, whose business 1t was was
to manufacture copies OF the standard
meter and the standard kilogram. But the
meter and the kilogram were defined long
before that by the French Academy. the
standard meter being one ten-millionth OF
the distance of the earth's surface from
the pole to the equator and now .
represented by the distance be-
tween two lines on a metallic rod
preserved in the archives Of the In
ternational Metric Commission. Two
Of these meter bars and two OF the
kilometer bars were turned over to
the United States for permanent
retention, and are now In safe
keeping in Washington. To illus
trate the delicacy Of the processes
employed by the commission I will
The sun., 1905-08-20

according to the report Of DR.. A. G. Young.
decreed in Maine 948 divorces, or one divorce
for every GO marriages solemnized.
Some Of the causes for which divorces
were granted are: Adultery, l0s, or 1919
per cent of the whole number; extreme
cruelty, o, or l per cent. desertion, $50.
or 26.4 per cent; intoxication, 1875, or
1872 per cent; cruel and abusive treatment,
3el, or H.3 p r cent; failure to support.
"a, or 2.5 per cent. The other divorces
were granted for multiple or associated
causes.
The wife was libellant in es4 cases and the
husband in 202
Five divorces were granted before the
married life had lasted six months, fifteen
before one year, 255 af.er from one to five
years, PSI after five to ten years, 2s6 after ten
to twenty years, 1Ol after twenty to thirty
years, twenty-nine after more than thirty
years Of married life, while in four cases
it was not stated how long they had been
In an address to the law students Of the
| University Of Maine on divorce Robert
| Treat Whitehouse gave some interesting
statistics on the subject. In Maine from
1892 to 1902 there e. were 7osa divorces; aa IN IN
1
these sol the wife was libellant in $50, the
husband in 2l2 OF in other words over 10
per cent. of the divorces granted were upon
! the wife's petition.
! 1t Is interesting to note further that there
! were four divorces before the married
| life had lasted six months and twenty six
before one year. The largest number of
divorces granted was after twenty and thirty
years Of married life. Ninety-five were
| divorced after from twenty to thirty years
| -.1L nd tun
| more than thirty years.
| The ratio of one divorce to every seven
marriages is among the highest in the Union,
where the ratio nowhere exceeds one to
seven. Cruel and abusive treatment is
the ground on which most OF the divorces
He gives the following recommendations
| for a partial cure Of the growing laxity
of the divorce laws:
i. The passage OF careful and uniform
requiring licenses, dec arations OF intention
and prohibiting marriages hefore certain
age when physically defective.
3. The provision made for preliminary
hearing in every case for the purpose OF
] effectiny q reconciliation.
, 8. That absolute divorce with the right
to remarry be al owed for the cause OF
| adultery, and whenever the Court or jury
shall Re satisfied beyond reasonable
doubt that the parties can no longer llve
interests and those of society. that they
should be divorced, and that the jurisdic-
tion in divorce matters be given to the
4 That these causes Of divorce, together
with one year bona fide residence clause,
be made uniform throughout all the States,
either by Federal law made possible by. a
statutory amendment or by like laws in
each State, providing IN the latter latter &C. case
shall be valid in the State in question.
The sun., 1905-08-20

to-day bring 176 English shillings
carat in the rough sold seven years ago
for 70 shillings. In the last year the
syndicate made several advances, s per
cent. on each occasion, besides adding
to the cvst by new rules affecting tho
size and quality Of the precious min +
erals.
It may be supposed that the inn
porters look for relief to the new Pre-.
mier mine in the Transvaal, the only
diamond mine Of any Importance that
ia not controlled by the De Beers
Consolidated Mines. Ltd. When the out
put OF this independent mine, upon which
work began in 1903. jumped early last year
above 10000 carats a month, the attention
Of the world was attracted.
The discovery Of the SO32 carat Cullinan
diamond, few months ago, added to the
interest. Promises Of lots Of diamonds
were made and are still being made, yet
the men In New York who import most OF
the stones that come here say that thus
far the Premier has had no practical effect
on the gem business in the United States.
Reasons why the new Premier has not
as yet exerted the slightest influence in
staying the upward trend OF prices were
given by Henry Fera one Of the oldest Of
the New York importers. He said:
-The total output OF the Premier mine is
now 75, 900 to 1900 carats a month. The
average value Of all the diamonds imported
into New York is $37.5 carat. Not more
than 9 per cent. OF the Premier stones are
up to this average; while 32 per cent have
an average value Of sl2.5o carat and 90
per cent are Of an average value Of 81. 90
a carat
when Premier stone is Of fine quality
the price Is fully as high as that Of a syndi-
cate gem. and naturally 80, as the new mine
pays 90 per cent. Of the value Of the stones
to the Government.
1The chief effect thus far Of the Premier
stones is In reducing the price OF bort. which
Is used for mechanical purposes. These
diamonds from the new mine arc particu-
laTly hard, . quality which increases the
The sun., 1905-08-20
A CLIMAX IN PETTICOATS.
GHE FINEST MADE or LINGERIE
AND or SILKS.

Zone OF Them 40 IIiEhIS Decorated rs Not
TO Deserve to Iic Hidden Away SuE.
grstiOns OF the Crinuiinc gnii Adjustable
FlOnnccs In nVariety-Iawns and Iacrs.
A thousand and one nights tales could
not do justice to the pet,icoats which my
lady Of the many extravagances wears
under her pretty frocks nowadays. The
lingerie petticoat has surely reached it's
climax so far az daintiness ard beauty
are cor-scrned.
Though for the moment the lingerie
retticoat Is supreme. there are also ex-
auisite petticoat models in silk enriched
with lace and ruchngs and ribbons and
embroidery and chiffon, until it seems
maddest folly to hide them away under
frock skirts. Fancy for example. a petit
coat of soft straw colored taffeta whose
deep shaped flounce is marked into panels
by lines of inset lace and trimmed in frothy
frills Of lace.A
The sun., 1905-08-20
DIVORCE IN MAINE.

One Marriage in Seven = Failure In tho
Pine Tree state.
BANGOR, Me-, Aug. l9.-In Maine divorce
is almost as easily secured as in South Da-
kota, and every year the number Of appli-
cants for the legal sundering Of marriage
ties increases. In the year ended June 80,