Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06

This foundation skirt of the cloth shows
clear to the waist line in the center front.
forming a panel six inches wide at the top
and eight inches wide where the lower OF
the two upper skirts OVerlapS it.
These two upper sections are cut exactly
alike at the bottom, only that the upper one
some sixteen inches from the waist line is
cut out and down and sants from the panel
some six inches, showing the second sec
ton from there down. Both are cut almost
straight, but slant a little toward the back
and are rounded at the bottom. Both are
faced with silk of a slightly deeper hue up
to the point where they are stitched TO the
foundation skirt, which in the upper Sec
ton is at the top, where 1t slantS out to
show the second section, about an inch
from the edges, the loose stitched portion
growing wider until at the bottom the over
tapping and loose upper section is six inches
deep and continues that depth around the
skirt. The second section is stitched down
at its commencement from the point where
the slanting cut out of the upper section
begins that is, six inches from the edge,
and it widens to eight inches at the bottom
and continues that width around the skirt.
This upper section fits the figure like a
glove. Three tiny darts taken at the
top. each side of the front panel. and in
front of the hips and on the sides, and in
the back it is cut to fit by careful cutting.
The bolero coat fits so closely at the bot
tom over the bodice girdle that the latter
seemed to be joined to it. The fullness of
the bolero is shaped in to the figure by
and the rest is laid in tiny plats gathers,
and inserted under a shaped band of the
cloth that goes around the coat and turns
up each side of the center front. 1t is stitch
ed four times through the center, the edges
being doubled under and left loose, match
ing the straps on the girdle On each turn
ed-up point of this band is a fancy button
and loop of self cord. The finish of the
center section between these ends will be
described later on. ~
The bolero across the bust and the back
is plain. save for the few radiatng gathers,
but over the shoulders and coming down
to a point I'm the back, and in the front
ending under wide revers, are bias folds.
Each Is nearly two inches wide; these are
turned in at the top, and each is stitched
three times in its center to the foundation
or bolero, and the outer edges are left
! loose. The outer strip is put close to the
edges OF the shoulder at the top. and pro-
JectS out over the tops of the sleeves; the
inner one comes close to the collar, for
this unlike most boeros has sure
enough collar. This collar is two inches
deep in the back, and is cut round al the
outer edges and ends in sharp points at
the inside of the tops of the wide revers
1t Is finished on the outer edge with
fancy braid in gold and brown. and a sec
ton of golden brown velvet an inch wide
shaped like the collar and edged with the
same narrow braid the CLOTH forms the
inner section of this collar.
The revers are almost as wide as they
are deep, and extend clear across the
Jacket fronts, ending in sharp points They
have inner sections of velvet of the same
shape. but much smaller, and both velvet
and cloth are finished at the edges with
the shaded silk braid. The right rever
crosses the left. and its point runs clear
down to the belt or band around the bolero
and 1t Is its plain base that makes a little
panel between the two ends of this belt
Projecting below this central and rever
piece is tab of cloth with one of velvet
superlmposed on it. each edged with the
braid This projects like a tab for an inch
below the plain center
ne sleeves are quite full at the ton and
STAND out At the elbow they are gathered
out gathered at the back or outside onIv
ana terminate under a seven-inch cuff of
the cloth that flares trf1e at the ton is |
open at the outside and is trimmed with two
pas strips Of cloth The first strip two
inches broad, Is stitched four times thrnuob
the center.the edge matching the other
strips In being doubled under and left loose
from the coat. These strips curve to follow
the outside of the cuff, and end half yav
ooWn under a similar but narrower strn
tnat Is similarly stitched across the center
or the cum, and has button and n silk loon
at the outside The lower part of the cuff is
le1t plain so far as the cloth is concerned
ana mas inserted under it bias fold NJ
the velvet an inch wide trimmed with the
SILK braid These cuffs make the sIaa,,a
three-quarter-length affairs
MARIE WEI DON