The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-01-15

Ing ends the material should he cut from
the under side of tho plaii=, TO remove we
extra cloth over the hips. In irngth the
skirt should be at least two inches from
the ground. and the plaits VA give so inucn
fuuess at the bottom that the feet are
not too much in evidence, an objection
usually made 10 q skirt Of this length.
4 successful model which is always good
though not espe cially now, l. me box
plniied skirt with the pla!ts stitched half
way down to the knees from shallow
yoke that comes just below the hip line
In tho front tho piaitS form fairy
wide box pait and A. the back are very
deep inverted plaIt7 which give sufficient
fulneS- for the skirt To stand ont IN ne
manner 80 necessary for properly hung
skirt.
This give. no suggestion Of a fun back
II made right, though II IS one 81 the things
that test the skill Of even the most eN,
perienoed dressmakers and tailors-s and
in tho hands of an un7killed person ~ gen
orally a failure. Some figures are 80 con-
structed that to get this effect II Is neoe4-
sary TO wear small fiat hustle under the
petticoat.
Horizontal lines should never he worn by
the stout woman IN any part OF her cos
tune and even straight lines that are 80
prominent as To- catch the eye should be
avoided The loss tho surface Is broken
the less the appearance OF size.
Combinations IN colOrs should ba avoided
a. much ~ pON-lDl', anu even "ll'h piuch
and white are used together. the white
should bo confined to the collar and vest,
and the black be unbrQkcn nv any intro
duot!ou of the white IN sleeves or skirt.
Checks, except of TIE tiniest, must be Ia
booed polka dots likewise, with the one
exception of very small dot on da:K
blue background.
Fine stripes, really hair lines on blue
or black, II properly made W are becoming
IA d rltle. iitit Il 100 much trimmed are quite
a. undesirable A. piaids. Cool coiorng IN
soft dull shades even though light. make
the most desirable evening gowns for the
stout woman. though huny, soft black Is
pretty, too. hut satin, aPangied nets or
sun black silks are worse than unsuitable;
they are painful 20 look upon.
la sleeves IL ~ wen "a adhere 10 those Of
moderate size. ~ they are without ques
ton far moro becoming than The large
ones and may ha made sufficiently In the
prevailing mode without partakug %! its
exaggerated features. II the shoulders
are very marrow an effect OF width may oe
obtained by lcnGthening me shoulder oil
the waist ont over the arm 10y means OF
curved piece oi canvas sci into tho arm
hole at the ton Of the sleeve.
AID bagRiness of the waist must be
avoided. both back ana front and vet care
must be- exercised 20 prevent an appear
ancc OF tishtness.
In coats II is well to have closely fitting
backs with half or. at any rate. slightly loose
fitting fronts IN waists marrow vests and
collars with very shallow yokes are becom-
ing. but a deep yoke On large woman Is
never anything but hdeous.
For house and evening wear trained
gown gives distinction and grace though
the present style is for rather long skirt
all around that becomes gradually longer
in the back instead Of the long narrow
train that used 10 be so much worn
II Is wonder that some clever dress
maker doesn't coufne herself exclusively
10 the gowniug Of stout women, as 30 many
do To making clothes for children. for
surely there. could h.. no greater test - her
skill in designing The field Is large aud
the lnborrr4 are few. and. IL what most
-ay is true. IL is much les
difficult % GO womnn Of too much avoir-
dupois than one Of too little