The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-07-16

who must remodel her old frocirs instsas
OF buying new onos.
The prestige Of the long close fitting Goa
Is great, and, since 1t 10 ut its best In cloth
II will undoubtedly be o feature OF autupAr
modes. Waistcoat and collar details ane
originality OF cut give variety to these
coats, and recent model, pictured among
the small cuts, shows q most effective
| Direct oire collar and rabat arrangement
Of lingerie bordersd by velvet upon long
| coat otherwise severe.
The touch Of velvet 10 ono OF tho con-
spicuous notes In the latest summer con-
feotions, and there is no denying Ito charm
In connection with the summer stufls. Often
the velvet falls In with the mon otone scheme
Of the frock or wrap, but as often the
velvet used Is black or OF dark or brilliant
tone, contrasting audaoiously yet bar.
moniously with the color Of tho material.
Velvet Of the deep beetroot reds upon
the light pink shades OF the Same color limo,
deep amethyst upon a delicate tint OF the
same color, dark glowing copper brown
upon the pale warm serge tints with q
CLINT Of copper that are known 40 noidorS
these are some OF tho combinations Of two
shades OF one color most often seen; and
the emerald and moss green's, tangerine
and coz dc roche and strawberry and
oerise shades In velvet are chosen to relieve
many colors belonging TO entirely different
garments and all the tones Of white.
A daring but chic use OF black velvet
was one OF the striking features OF . par
tioularly lovely gown In tho lightest and
most supple cloth OF a soft banana yellow
tone. Save for the velvet straps on the
gracefully draped bodice and on the short
pulled sleeve and the lace guimpe. the
gown was all in one tone, . cloth collar,
cloth sleeve fall and the skirt bottom up
to point we'll above tho lmees being heav-
lily and boldly embroidered In chenille
matching the cloth
Upon all the banana. apricot, sulfur and
canary yellows black velvet is especially
effective. Rose velvet also is liked upon
the pale yellows OF the maize or straw
tints, this color combination being ono OF
the. Louis XVI. fancies.
Mention Of Louis modes brings ono around
to the silk coats and sheer skirts. which,
though appearing In many modern guises,
are prone to take on eighteenth century
aspects. They are an old tale now, yet
original changes are still rung upon them,
and few Of the summer modes arc prettier
or moro practical.
Two Of the costumes sketched In tho CEN
trail group belong to this class, and ono Of
the two offers possibilities Of smart and
ooquettish frook at cost by no means
great. The original model turned out by
a famous dressmaker, was Of course an
expensive one, but its caohet lies in the idea
developed rather than In complicated detail,
and any clever dressmaker should be able
to copy the quaint tafeta coat with it's
crossed backs and fronts and long tabs In
the back.
Handsome brilliant or enamel buttons
the cuffs Of the big turned back elbow sleeves
The skirt, Of mousseline, finely tucked and |
INSET with valencisnnes almost to the hip |
line, and the mousseine blouse to match |
are not difficult OF achievement, and a
sheer skirt less elaborate In detail might be
substituted.
In lowered moussellne and plain tafieta,
100, the model would work out well-a silk
or chiffon with shaded apricot
design on a white ground, with . coat Of
apricot taffeta, or a combination IN shaded
rose and white.
Skirts OF eyelet worked lawn or linen.
tailorlike In make and worn
with long fitted coats Of cloth. are among
the novelties. The open work lingerie
skirt may match the cloth in color or may
be in white made over foundation In the
color Of the coat.
Wolfe skirts with smart little coats OF
tafreta, usually Of the bolero or short sack
type, are numerous and serviceable, and
loose, jaunty little sacks or boleros OF
taffeta in the light oolors arc donned over
airy lingerie frooks in white or delicate
color.
The loose sack reaching Just below tho
waist line has been very successful and Is
seen not only in tafreta, but also in laoe
in embroidery and in linen. cloth or other
material almost hidden under Irish lace or