Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-01-28
FOR M|LAOPS GOWN
Picturesque Fabrics to Wear
in Spring and Summer.
SELF-TRIMMED SILKS
THE MODIFIED POKE BONNET FOR
MISS 1905.
The Vogue of the Redingote' is IRE
mendous-Long, Draped Capes
Are Effective.

| Written iof Liz INehmS otaf ny AathSiihS Ah-
derson.
All things make for the quaint effect, and
unless there is decided change in fabrics
and modes the picturesque will still reign
in the spring and summer fashions. While
the costume de style is unQuestionably the
sartorial privilege of the rich woman, she
who has a more limited dress allowance
may avail herself of certain odd touches in
gown or accessories which will carry her
some distance from the tailor-made.
Among the high-priced fabrics which lend
themselves readily to these quaint effects
may be mentioned the fancy velvets' and
brocades, stiff enough to stand alone. Very
quaint and old-fashioned are the striped
yelvets, in which velvet and a corded silk
alternate. These are offered in all the pop
ular dahlia shades, and for the stately
dowager there comes the most beautiful
amethyst.
Brocades come in self-tone and the most
violent contrasts, including realistic flow
ers on white, cream or very pale tinted
ground. A variant Of the brocade is a
very wide silk, woven in Imitation of POM
padour ribbon. Plain silks continue to gain
In luster, but the old, stiff satins have given
place to more supple weave Faille,
which has not been seen on the market for
many years, is given in evidence, but in a
more soft and lustrous guise
For house wear cashmere Is again in
favor, and comes in all the faddish Shades
as we'll as the standard colorings For
tea gowns and house dresses of a more
elaborate character it is shown in delicate
tones for combination with Persian en-
broidery, lace and black velvet 1t is
prophesied that the Powered materials in
summer weaves, such as organdie, dimity,
mousseline and fine lawns, will go to one
of two extremes, showing either enormous,
splashing designs or the tiny sprig effects
hxTf, n thor
rical patterns will be used but little.
The effort early in the season to intro
duce fringe as a trimming has failed save
as it appears on the ends of scarfs and
sashes, but heavy braids woven into fur
ornaments and chenille appliques of all
sorts, together with bullion trimming, are
seen very generally.
Velvet and Braid.
An imported gown which shows many of
the features above mentioned is a combina-
ton of prune messaIine and velvet with
heavy braid trimming in self-tone The
skirt is built in panels. set off by tiny
hand-run tucks, each panel being edged
with a fine fold of the velvet and small vel
vet buttons. The little velvet bolero has a
V-shaped front crossing at the waist line
and defined by an applique of hand en-
brOidery in this same tone, and the little
garment is faced all the way around with
a tiny ruffle of silk lace. The sleeve is
overlaid with cape-like empiecement,
trimmed heavily with shirred cords to SIM
ulate braid. The blouse is of white silk
net, trimmed with many ruffies of Cham
lilly lace, and the V-shaped point in the
front is strapped with shirred cordings of
the satin With this costume is worn a
modification of the old-fashioned poke bon
net done in white mousseline and edged
with silk lace to match that used on the
bodice, and here IS tucked a white silk
rose. White plumes and ties of mousseline
caught with roses complete the picturesque
chapeau.
Great Width at Hem.
Pleats are laid upon pleats to secure pic
turesque effects and an immense sweep at
the foot of the gown. A Partisan frock Of
mouse-gray mousseline and velvet is pleated
in very thick and fiat at the waist line be-
meath a pointed bodice, and falls in the
directoire folds to the feet, lying on the
ground several inches all the way around
With this is worn an odd little Jacket
which hangs in similar pleats from the yoke
piece hidden by the reyers. heavily braided
with silver bullion.
OF all the street garments. nothing can
compare for picturesqueness with the velvet
redingote, which is worn with cloth. silk
and velvet skirts. It fits tightly to the
figure at the back and sides. full basque
being scanned on just where the waist ter
inmates, instead of over the hips, while the
sleeves are nearly always in the lego
mutton form. with big, turned-back gaunt-
let cuffs and, perhaps. tight silk UNDER
cuff deliberately embroidered The coat gem
orally opens over one of the new low waist
coats, on which, as often as not, are en-
broidercd. the most elaborate sprays OF
flowers in shaded silks or woods, or conven-
tional designs of all descriptions. while
binding Of old gold or silver braid or lace
makes q very effective finish. They are
reminiscent-these little embroidered vests
Woro the richest OF lace jahotS out OF the