davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20
Bandeaux Necessity for the New Fall
Hat

From the August Millinery Trade Review.
The cachepeigne or bandeau is as neces-
sary to the building up of most of the new
models as 1t has been throughout the two
last seasons. but a very considerable change
has been wrought in the way in which it is
trimmed Moreover, the brim of the hat
retains more or less its normal position
turned up sharply. A forward or slightly
sideway inclination (more often the former)
is given to the shape by the presence OF n
high bandeau. which is not concealed under
a bulky mass of trimming confounding IL
with the hat itself. but has special scheme
of trimming of its own. Coquilles of velvet.
bows of ribbon with several loops fastened
/ fiImy against the bandeau by a buckle in
their centers. in some few cases Jabots OF
lace treated in the same way, small
wings or other arrangements of plumage,
and also small or quadruple rows OF fiat
loops of ribbon, are the decorations gener-
ally adopted.
Sometimes the decoration Is extended TO
the under side of the brim after the manner
of applique. radiating as-it were from
the base formed by the bandeau Wings
and sprays of fancy plumage are even In
crusted in this way. as well as loops of rio
bon and fiat bows and star-shaped rosettes.
1t is evident that the fashion of fitting
forward the hat shape over the brow is to
be persevered in, but it must be we'll I'M
derstood that the position 1t is to occupy
is not left to the fancy of the wearer when
she puts II on. or its stability to a few pins.
The whole chic of a hat may lie in it's exact
amount of tilt, and the maker of the hat
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20
Hats Of One Color Will Be Popular.

From the Millinery Trade Review.
There is decided fancy for hats of one
color only. though the color may be ex
hibited in two or more shades, the deepest
being usually adopted as the predominating
shade. This tendency has already made it
self felt in the latest of the hats provided
for present wear, many of which are entire
ly carried out in low-toned green's, mordore
browns. porcelain blues, dull violets and
even in ''moleskin''-a dark. brOwny drab
on which we must reckon, it appears, for
the coming season, altf Ough 1t does not
figure in the syndicate card.
In spite of all the care devoted to the
drawing up of this scheme it Is absolutely
impossible (seeing the date at which it is
published) that it should not need adding
to as time goes on. Therefore l have also
to say that another line of green's has also
ere pped out, yellowish moss greens of light
and medium depth. that promise exceeding
ly well. This particular shade was first
brought to the fore by the cloth manufac-
Lyons for velvets and ribbons Foremost
among the colors aelected for building up
one-colored hats stands all the deeper reds,
particularly Pourpre, Pantins. Jacquemi-
not, Tule and Betterave-to give them the
names by which the deepest shades are
designated on the card-the alligator green's
and those moss shades to which / have
just made allusiOn, and the Lophorine or
peacock blue.) Some of the elading mil
liners place special reliance on this line
OF blues giving them decided preference
over the porcelain shades, of which so much
has been seen latterly. Peacock and king
fisher bites are best suited for shading
off into greens, and the two are found hap
PLY blended in many of the wings, birds
and fancies made up of plumage, of which
there is such a large and varied assortment
this year. Bright dashes of yellow are also
conspicuous on plumage otherwise rather
dark
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20
A TRAV ELER'S IA D
COLLECTION OF SERVICE TRAYS
IN ODD AND NOVEL DESIGNS.

The latest fad of the woman tourist is
the collection OF odd service trays. Her
souvenir craze began some years ago when
she brought home individual coffee cups
from each town visited Another year
fancy was drinking stems, followed by
season when quantity shaped pitchers and
jugs were the coveted object for which she
was always hunting. During this sum
mer OF 1905 she has haunted antique shops
and novelty stores in search OF all sorts
of picturesque and unusual trays.
one vacation resort dealer has made a
speciality of the many kinds of wooden
trays Noteworthy among these is a
matched wood tray of oak. In which the
grain of the oak IS joined to show zigzag
figures A rim of brass encircles the cir
conference of circular shape. from
which rises on either side perpendicular
standards of brass six inches in height.
holding handles Of highly polished oak.
Oblong trays in similar matched wood
have a molding of ebony. around the edge.
and wooden handles that stand straight
out from the ends. Imitation Sheraton
and filigree brass rims also among
this stock. Very decorative also are trays
of burnt wood showing flower designs or
figures of girls under crystal and inclosed
in high nickel rims.
A distinctly new tray is one used for
serving cold meats or salads. 1t stands
up from the table like a cake dish and
Curving dishes for different kinds of cold
roasts fit together about the outer edge.
while shallow groove in the center holds
60 os chilli sauce or other meat relish.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20

worn by Mrs. Wilson Shannon Dunn, who
Miss Grace Atkins DobSon of Boston.
This has a sde-plaited skirt that clears the
ground well. and smart but very plain
Elton coat, and is topped by a dark-red
straw hat
dark-brown chiffon tafeta costume
composed of a round skirt and Zion coat
seen was quiet and plain enough to travel
In, and al the same time smart enough to
be worn anywhere while luncfing. The
skirt had six-inch hem. and two inches
above the hem was an inch wide tuck, Two
inches above This tuck came another an
inch and a half wide: these were the skirt :
sole decoration. At the top the skirt was
Shirred very closely and smoothly. and this
shrrinS formed the girdle and princess top.
being corselet, bot yet giving no fare or
spread over the hips that unduly increased
The size. The Eton coat came down below
the stirring and the fronts met but did not
revers, aSl were finished by an inch-wide
strappiug of the silk that extended OF
around the edges. and outside of the strap
ping was Il scant ruffie about an inch wide
of yellow lace. This lace extended around
the coat also. at the upper and not the
outer edge of the strapping. In the center
back the strappings up. each about
two inches from the center, and slaBting
cut, formed blunt points thai touched IL
the back-at least the lace ruifies outlining
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20
The Judgment of Komura.

From the New York World
Since Paris awarded the golded apple to
Aphrodte history has dinned the perIIs
threatening him who sits in Judgment be-
tween women. The world has waited long
for so safe and rational procedure as the
faithful Mr.. Sato OF the Japanese peace
embassy ascribes to Baron Komura They
held series Of contests on the Pacific liner
coming over. Three women tied for the prize
in one of these. 1t fell TO Baron Komura
to select the winner. Some timorous Amer
leans proposed to compromise by drawing
lots. But not so Komura. He has had
too thorough a training in the ways Of
Japan to leave anything to chance. In
his country. he said, age is held in the
highest respect. The prize must be given
to the oldest of the three women. BY his
decision 1t went to a fair contestant, who
claimed to be over sixty.
Our western women are hard to please in
the matter of years. They are eager to
reach a sufficing age, and then would loiter
not too far beyond 1t the rest of their lives,
in spite of paling cheeks and telltale crows
feet. Baron Komura offers a moral code
based on rewards and penalties. 1t makes
for truth-telling. 1t reverses the old rule
by handicapping youth and taking on
weight for age. 1t makes 1t easier to grow
old gracefully The Japanese plan adjusts
The differences OF skill on the golf links
and prowess in the ball room. Every wom-
an may see the advantages of it sooner or
later. Bet women must be frank. 1t
would be discourteous to have to go to the
birth records.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20
(sa6 S!&eN@a@5 85@hzd }
small black toque with white wings at

small black toque with white wings at
each side.
K
Mrs. Fitzgerald. who Is the wife of Gen.
Louis Fitzgerald. had ner daughter, Mrs.
Harold Fitzgerald. with her. The latter,
who has high color with dark-brown hair
and dark eyes. was in a dull blue linen of
fine texture, more OF a linen null in face,
although 1t had a good deal of body. The
tie, and to describe il accurately. it looked
like a linen yelling. The skirt cleared the.
ground by four inches. and its top was laid
10 depth OF some twenty -four inches from
the top in half-inch side plaits, each its
own width from the next. The top. or bod
ice, was rather odd in that it had regular
wide eibow-length Elton coat sleeves laid
in plaits to match the skirt three-fourths
their depth from armholes to elbows, re-
leased above the elbows TO form wide far
ing sections that came below the elbows
over full white underseeves. While the
body of the jacket was belted In under
wide fold of blue satin ribbon exactly
ma tching the color of the gown, it was
laid in sideplaits half an inch wide TO
match the skirt. There was a stock and
guimpe effect OF Irish crochet arranged On
the outside. The jacket or bolero closed in
visibiy.
The hat topping this was a French sailor.
blue on The top and white under the br M
with rim of blue showing under as well
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20
Shapes in the New Seasons Headwear.

From the Millinery Trade Review.
With the idea arrived at in reference to
shapes destined to appear in the headwear
projected by the mode for the autumn and
winter. in an inspection of frames accorded
a month ago. In the main confirmed in the
models placed on display In the first series
of expositions for the new season in the
wholesale millinery houses. variety seems
not only to have kept pace with what, in
this respect. has distinguished the outputs
of an indefinite number of previous seasons.
but to have exceeded former limits Dupli-
Gates in hats sent over to US by the French
modistes, seen only when. perchance. some
two Of our importers happen to select from
the same artist model of character pecu-
liarIy attractive, almost every model which
came under notice In the recent exhibits
presents points of difference more or less
observable.
The very large hats still continued to
some extent. Size considered, the hats
which came out in the late openings in
clude as it would seem in well-nigh equal
numbers, large. medium large and medium
small sizes. Distinctly small hats (and
these fashioned principally In toques and
turbans) were less frequently in evidence
than was promised for them In some things
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20

at the left. Those not quite so large are
merely rolled at the left edge and are only
slightly lifted at the right.
Marabout feathers are still to be worn
but not much as formerly Ostrich
plumes, of course. will be much seen-they
always are-and also bird of paradise feath-
ers. Aigrette piumes are less seen. but 1t
should be remembered that aigrette plumes
are most expensive and last but a short
time. whereas ostrich plumes make a much
greater showing for the money invested and
are comparatively durabl and even the
wealthy woman does not despise economy
The favorite side for the applications of
piumes and feathers. and also on palmer
hats of wings, is the left. although In GER
tain hats long plumes sweep from the back
over toward the front
In flowers for autumn hats many roses
are seen in their natural colorings Large
single roses are placed under and on the
brimS, while for the back smaller flowers In
the back to cover the bandeaux
MARIE WELDON.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20

an ordinary coat and skirt. The cut of this
gown. or costume however, was not ordi-
nary. The skirt was very short and very
tight-htting about the hips, and had prin-
cess top. close-titting to some six inches
above the belt line, but instead of the
bolero top coming down over 1t. several
narrow straps of the linen extended up and
were joined to the very short bolero. which
was cut I'm scallops all around the bottom,
and also around the quite low neck This
boero section was not over eight inches
deep. but formed perfect jacket top,
and was brought out OYER the arms to also
form sleeves that came nearly to the ell
bows. The straps were four or five in num-
Der in both the back and the front and
slanted in II manner suggestive of lattice
work.
This short bolero. with its low neck and
strappiugs and short sleeves. showed much
of fine white batiste blouse
with this Miss Crmmins wore black
chip tricorIe with a red rose or two at the
left side.
Another pretty dark-red linen costume is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20

over the brim 1t was rolled trifie at
the back and showed very pale pink roses
in a double row across the back. Around
the crown a double row of the same
roses, and at the left side full blue bow.
The autumn hats promise to be neither
very large. like those from Partisan work
shops for occasions requiring formal dress
ing for the summer, nor very small like
those of the spring. Some of the truly SUI
perb creations arriving here In late May
and early June and sent direct to moneyed
women by Partisan milliners were of great
size and suited only to tall women with
dignifed carriage. To be sure. there is
now and then a small woman who can don
Il large hat and look well in it. but this is
very seldom Mrs. w. X. Vanderbilt. jr.,
Is one of the few slight and petite women
who can successfully carry large cha
peau.
Many of the Partisan creations which are
quite the dernier cri for summer. project
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20

out at great length at the rear. and are
comparatively short at the front style
both trying to the wearer and somewhat
outre in itself
that those Of medium size will prevail.
although. of course, large hats are always
worn for certain occasions. The winter
modes. in chapeaus will. of course. show
many large hats.
Hats of one color, though often OF differ
ent shades. will be much worn this au-
tumn.= Greens of different shades will be
fashionable in both velvet and felt hats.
and green for the woman with color and
who has not blue eyes Is usually n desirable
hue. The combination of green around the
face with blue eyes is, however. almost al
ways a most unfortunate one. Gray-eyed
women need not fear green, provided their
compilations are of the proper sort, and
there is no blue mixed with the gray. Green
goes best. however. with brown and hazel
eyes. especially the latter
In reds, many handsome dark shades will
appear IN autumnal millinery.
Peacock blue is promised in the fashion
able shades of blue and it is said that the
porcelain or Alice blues will take second
place
The leading mode for wearing hats will
continue to be over the face. Those having
the tilt from the back Will be as fashionable
this fall as during the summer.
Sailors appear in the new felts. and many
of these are trimmed with plumes
IN toques. modified torpedo shapes are
seen: others have wide crowns and narrow
brims.
In crowns the wide effects are usually fiat;
the narrow ones high.
In brims the widest diversity in twisting
and turning appears. There is no indenta-
ton too extraordinary or ordinarily unbe-
coming to be found.
In the hats of extreme size most of the
brims quite simple, are depressed at the
right side and widen out and curve up high
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20
Special Correspondence of The Star.
NEW YORK August Is |!

NEW YORK. August Is, 1906.
While the elaborate gowns of the fash
ionable fair are now to he seen only at the
smart resorts. town is the place to note
travelling gowns and simple frocks suitable
for short journeys and those donned for
informal luncheons and dinners in the mod
ish restaurants The dinners are often the
result Of chance meetings in the shops.
railway trains. or stations. and In conse-
quence there is often an amusing hodge
podge as to dress, for one woman VIII prob
ably have on "A short linen costume and the
one dining with her a trailing dinner robe.
This sort of thing adds much to the in
formal gayety of these occasions. and these
affairs are much more enjoyed than the
more ccremonious dinners of the winter
The women who are comparatively near
New York wear some very pretty cos
tunes simple of course) when they come
in for a days shopping for the innumerablc
small things that women always need, and
the younger girls especially appear in some
fetching frocks
Miss Mercedes Crimmns. one of the
daughters of John u. Crimm.ns. came in
one day during the week from NOroton-on-
the-SOund. where the Crimmins country
house is in a particularly smart dark red
linen. This color is so seldom seen in linen
that X alone won. -'ye distinction to even
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20
Return of the Eton Coat.

The return of the Elton coat Will be hailed
by most women with JOY. 1t is very near
relation of the bolero. but 1t is usually
characterized by coatlike collar and tiny
revers, also pointed fronts and plain coat
sleeves. popular everyday costume of
the summer is the plated skirt and the
Elton to match. 1t is a style which Is even
more useful than the old coat and skirt we
have loved so long and so wisely and
which even now we shall not entirely part
from. though the coats are longer and the
skirts more deliberately made.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20

These trays are especially convenient for
lunch and Sunday night tea service.
The pride of one woman's collection is
a tray of lockwood in cake-dish shape,
bearing salad dishes in the form of green
beech leaves. with pink porcelain. peach
shaped bowl for cheese in the central
groove.
Most artistic in these collections of trays
is the German tile ware mounted in bright
nickel. Wonderful flower designs in rich
and exquisitely blended colorings deco
rate the cream white porcelain thing. y
large purple orchid looping over tail green
leaves adorns medium-siZed circular tray
This has an inch wide rim of nickel fill
gree and very high nickel handles by which
to lift it.
For carrying lemonade glasses there
comes a basket-shaped tray with porce-
lain bottom and two long, deep troughs
formed by nickel filigree. The present
vogue of serving fruit on thing trays IN
stead of in fruit dishes has brought out
no end of graceful shapes in this ware.
A choice example which one collector has
brought home from a weekend Jaunt Is
a long ellipse of thing showing different
fruits in natural colorings. A wide edging
of lace design in nickel surrounds the TIL
ing which is carried by straight handles
extending out horizontally at each end of
the ellipse.
Another collector has made a specially
of copper and brass trays. These are
hammered to show grapes or wild flowers,
standing out most realistically. Both brass
and nickel trays for serving planked fish
have deep sides to conceal the sides of
the plank.
Pretty Dutch figures in colored porce-
lain are covered with crystal and form
the bottom of fancy trays, while some OF
the trays are merely heavy sheets of plate
glass or crystal set in brass mount,ngs
with high handles
After-dinner coffee trays of metal are
at least three and half feet long and
not over eight inches wide; that Is, wide
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20

provides for this beforehand 1t will be
seen, therefore what an important part the
bandeau. which keeps 1t firmly In a given
position, is called upon to play.
Velvet coverings for hat brims, so far as
L have ascertained, as yet. are invariably
cut to form and mounted without any
pleats or other fullness. and when the
crown is Of the lighter kind this Is also
covered fiat and encircled round its base
by folds or by draperies drawn rather light.
But good many are to be seen with bere;
crowns, generally fulled star-fashion from
the center.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20

enough TO hold single cup and saucer
and a miniature coffee pot
No less decorative than the rest. though
perhaps less unique. are mountings of sill
yer or nickel holding beveled mirror bot
tom on which to carry delicate glassware.
A collection is not considered complete
without one of these brilliant trays.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20
STYLES While You Wait.

Mrs. Style-I want a hat, but 1t must be
in the latest style.
Shopman-Kindly take a chair, madam.
and wait a few minutes; the fashion is
just changing.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20


touring. and while on this subject there
comes from reliable quarter hint as to
the return to favor of the soft felt HON.
burg. This shape has never gone out entire
ly. but is, according to the revolutions of
fashions wheels. scheduled for a general
temperance.
Talking about hats, L heard funny con-
versation In a hotel corridor. The pretty
girl, evidently wife of the good-looking man
accompanying her, inquired solicitously: is
nay hat on straight"
Yes; hurry or we'll be late" came the
comforting reply.
Are you sure it's on perfectly straight 90
Yes. l tell you it couldn't be on straight
err"
Then, Harry. dear, I'm awfully sorry.
but III have to go upstairs and fix it. You
know it isn't stylish to wear this kind of
hat straight"
Mans patience will not he so tried If the
perfectly round felt turbans promised for
fall wear materialiZe Rumor has IL they
are to be trimmed with ostrich feathers
starting almost directly at the back and
coiIlnS over on the hair or quite round to
the opposite side. Black shapes with col
ored feather or cOlored feltS with black
plumes are contrasts assured of the best
millinery recognition The chic of these
toques rests on their studied planness ex-
cept for the feather adornment.
The charming romance of Miss Wiuans,
one of your American beauties from a
southern state which eliminated in her
marriage last week to the Prince de Rearn
here, was pretty ceremony. The young
bridegroom was an attache of the French
legation at Washington, and he and his
bride spent last summer at Newport where
the romance is said to have begun The
girlish bridal gown was of soft white sat
the skirt ornamented with a Greek key de-
sign carried out in lace and tiny rufhes of
satin. The simple bodice had lace yoke
and pulled bretelles Of satin. edged with
lace. The crossed ends We're finished with
a small bunch of orange blossoms
The princess gown is always a fayorfte
model for wedding costumes, and, when the
bodice is draped, it is particularly becom-
ing to slight figures. No trimming is neces-
sary on the skirt of a silk or satin we'd
ding gown, and a dainty lace yoke trimmed
with cobwebby ruffies Is sufficient for the
bodice The plain style that relies upon
the beauty of the material and graceful
draplng Is smartest and often most effec-
! tive. A decidedly unique idea for wedding
| wells Is being carried out by a French girl
self a drapery Of chiffon With ts5 c,v
sprays of orange blossoms that give the
! effect of border. but really in de-
! tached punches. The painting is done in
| white, and the effect is stunning.
There is an odd superstition in NJ. Worth s
| workroom. When wedding gown is being
made there is rush among the sewing
girls to thread the first needle with a hair
| from their own head and pass it through
| the material. Whoever is first In this race
| will be the first to marry.
| CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-20

The evening gown illustrated Is OF light
green Grape A Vatican effect is carried
out in the trimming. On the skirt between
festoons and bands of lace are circular
motifs surrounding large pink chiffon roses.
A similar adornment is arranged on the
slightly decollete bodice The girdle Is OF
shirred Grape and gives princess effect
that Is very becoming to a slight figure.