davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

smarter than the heavy ones, for women
must now be comfortable and must be
warmly clothed Fortunately, also. there
is no end of cheap furs in the market which
are perfectly possible for Innings, although
be it understood there is nothing that
marks the woman's social and hnancial
status more distinctly than the wearing OF
expensive furS. Il would tax the brain OF
most accomplished naturalist to name
some of the skins that are used but there
is no need of name, and If one is gwen
that is just bit Inappropriate 1t may De
said that the majority of the world at large
will not know that it is somewhat incon-
gruous.
Sable leads, as always. in the costly furs,
and every year now-in fact, every season
sees more beautiful skins of this kind of
fur brought to this country. The cost
might seem prohibitive, but it is not in the
majority of cases. and this exquisite tur Is
made up in what might be termed the most
casual way. Often one woman viii possess
a long coat, a short jacket and set or
muff and stole of this fur, each skin OF
which will be noted by the veriest amateur
for it's exquisite color and marking. Time
was, and not so long since, when 1t would
have been thought more Questionable to
wear a sable garment-this because the fur,
being SO long. made the wearer thereof look
bulky. In these days it has been proved
possible to make it up in such wise as to
not conceal the good lines of the figure and
to have the garments very smart and trim,
such a degree of excellence having been
reached in the working of the fur.
A long coat of sable is a superb garment.
The present style is made with the fur so
arranged that the marking thereof gives
the effect OF a bolero with a long coat
added This enables the coat to fit in more
closely at the sides and to flare toward the
foot. The sleeves are of medium size and
on the coat sleeve shape There is no trim
ming on the coat, which, of course, really
needs none, the beauty Of it being in the
markings and color. The model for this
coat is one of the most fashionable of the
season and is made up in chinchilla, baby
lamb and sealskin. While apparently sim
pie, 1t Is, like most simple fashions of the
day, quite too difficult to be attempted by
any one but professional at the work. In
fur as in all cloth, it is vastly easier for
amateurs to succeed when there Is good
deal of trimming allowed, as the trimming
covers up any defects of cut or style.
Short jackets of sable are without excep-
ton rather fanciful in effect. There are
just few on the Elton and bolero shape
made severely plain and untrimmed, but
the others are all more or less picturesque
with big sleeves or elbow sleeves or some
thing fantastic slashed to show lace or vel
vet or trimmed with braid. They are very
smart and are worn with gowns of all
kinds, and. although to conservative people
1t seems in bad taste to trim anything so
handsome as sable, on the other hand 1t is
possible to use poorer skins and at the
same time produce a very good effect.
There are long neck pieces of sable on the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

will live longest and that have done most
for the world have not been books which
paid their authors very much in coin OF
the realm.
But this Is a bit apart from the topic.
How shall We know an author who is still
living. and therefore whose biography has
not been published?
After a mans work is done, his memoirs
throw great illumination upon it, and no
reading is more profitable than that of
biography. The great statesman, the great
poet, the great commander. having finished
MS course and gone to the majority leaves
behind~ him footprints the sands of time
Some one then tells the story of his child
hood, his training. his adventures and his
methods OF work, and reading about him.
done and said. Many of US feel as well
acquainted with Iennyson and Browning
Carlyle. Ruskin and Stevenson. Emerson
Hawthorne and Longfellow, as II we had
sat at their tables or talked with them
beside our own fires. We may even know
them In a way that their contemporaries
did not, for the intimacies of domestic life
are too often laia bare in the letters and
memorials which appear when the dead can
no longer defend their privacy.
As for the living author. he may bar his
door and put up his shutters IL he chooses.
He cannot be invaded by interyiewers or
besieged by admirers against his WILL Still.
to seek to know something about an au-
thor's environment. his home life and the
impression he makes on his townspeopie.
To the latter, to his grocer. his butcher and
baker. he Is very much like anybody else.
They regard him with no especial Difference.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29
Getting Acquainted
With Authors
BY MARGARET Z. sANGsTER.
Copyright. 1908. BY Joseph B. Bowles)


IE order TO know an author as one knows
a friend. or knows his trade or business,
something more is needful than the mere
hurried perusal of his book. One does not
know an author in any real sense unless
he gets hold of the personality behind the
work. In all the world nothing is more
vital than a book. IL ii be written by a man
who has put his soul into the page, whose
life has permeated the story and whose
purpose in work has been higher than Of
ferlng mere amusement. OF the hope of
making money. To amuse and entertain
the public Is a legitimate object, and We
cannot but send our grateful thanks to any
body whose gay good humor brings a smile
TO careworn people. An author, let us add
like any other day laborer. Is worthy OF his
hire, II his work be well done.
But the mirth- producing book is gener-
ally ephemeraI. and shoula be used rather
as DESSERT after a meal than as the meal
Itself And as for authorship, while oc-
casienaliy a successful writer makes a for
tune. It's emoiuments are not usually In
bank sseok 90 real estate. The books that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29
A Centerpiece for Halloween.

and coming together in the middle. should
throw their RIBBON or paper strips over the
right shoulder. Then the girls. all form
ing q circle, should dance toward this CEN
ter and encircle 1t several times. mean
while examining the shares into which the
ribbon has fallen.
When the head girl discovers a shape on
the floor that looks like her own initial
first or last, as has been decided upon, she
at once picks up the end of this ribbon that
is on the floor and the man holding the
other end is her partner. They at once
dance to the top of the room. and holding
on either end of the ribbon, await the
coming of the others. AS each couple
comes along they dance under the ribbon
of the other couples and go to the top.
The figure closes with two-step.
Nuts and apples should enter largely
into a Halloween luncheon or dinner and
II the Halloween tricks not TO be tried
afterward some the tricks may come In
between the courses. The servant may
bring in a tray of twigs candy sticks. of
different shapes, thicknesses and lengths.
and all the guests asked to select one. after
which they may be told that such stick
represents the relative height, breadth and
quality of future husband or wife, as tall
or short. fat or thin, sweet, sour, pep
perry, tough, etc.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

have harvested all you possibly can from
the author of your choice.
Not long ago professor OF English lit
erature in one of our colleges commented
severely on the slovenly fashion in which
many young people did their reading She
mad found in examining the papers of hun
dreds OF young women who had graduated
from preparatory schools that they could
not tell for instance, when Dante lived
that they had no knowledge of Shake
speare's period. that Milton was an un-
known quantity in their reading. that many
of them had never heard OF DR. johnson
and that later authors who star English
literature with CORY had scarcely dawned
upon their horizon. certain amount OF
mechanical work they had DONE but il had
left very little resulting knowledge in the
memory. To know an author as one ought
IL Is well 10 know something of the period
in which ne lived. whether it was Eliza
bethan or early Victorian, or whether IL is
the period of today.
If one read Charlotte Bronte or Jane Aus
ten or Mrs. Oliphant or Charles Lamb.
Dickens or Thackeray, William Black
Thomas Hardy, the scholarly way is to
discover what one can about the places and
people of whom they wrote. Unless one
does this. one cannot be said 20 know an
author
Do not be afraid of being man of one
book When the daylight hours of mans
life spent in his office. or behind a
counter. when business occupies him to the
exclusion of other interests during the
freshest part OF the day, he cannot be ex-
pected to read so widely one may who
can give his whole time and thought TO this
work. But there is profound culture to be
gained by the man who simply and whole
heartedly takes up single line or lnNesu-
CATION or a single author and studies that
author for the evenings of winter.
doubt however, whether culture ever
comes until reading has ceased to be a task
and has become n pleasure Ii tie feeling is
that of one who is driven to read because con-
science says he must, there Will be much
less accru!ng profit than IL the book Is read
hacausa reading is delight and rest and
comfort in sorrow and the greatest pleasure
In life
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

pale pink chiffon, while a broad collar,
deep cuffs and wide bands about the skirt
of sable give just the right note of deep
coloring. With dark and brilliant shades
sable is, of course, extremely handsome
but this fur also brings out charmingly
the colors otherwise faint and indefinite
delicate rose pink or vague yellow and buff.
Lace wraps are decidedly in favor this
| winter. but always deliberately fur
| trimmed. Ermine is lighter and hence more
| appropriate for an evening cloak than
sable, but even the severe errnine wrap, if
| 1t has not deep cape and wide cuffs of
| point lace, is finished with a high sable
| collar, the lace falling down in front with
| full jabot effect. Brocade of some decided
| pattern makes the most effective lining to
| the ermine or lace and ermine wrap. There
| may be sleeves to the fur cloak IL desired,
| but long, loose capes are unquestionabiy
| once again in vogue. Velvet opera cloaks
| are fashionable this winter. Velvet, how
| ever, is so heavy in itself as to allow of
| only little touch of fur in the trimming,
| lace giving more the desirable note of con-
| trast. A satin cloak depends upon fur at
| the throat and wrist quite as much as
| either lace or chiffon.
| Fur-lined evening wraps are delicously
| warm. This year 1t is rather the fad to
| line the cloak with some inexpensive fur,
| and then place over this tie regular silk
or satin lining This is rather a good plan
| for wornout Innings, but scarcely sensible
| with new goods. as flannel or chamois lin
| ing can be made almost as warm and moth
| ing like 50 heavy. With coat lined with
| fur the outside trimming need not be the
| same fur, handsome skin being frequently
| desired for collar and cuffs. Many lace
| and chiffon wraps are lined with ermine
| and also trimmed deliberately with 1t. When
| the cloak is thrown back the ermine shows
up handsomely.
| Furs and lace always appeal to the fem
| mime half of humanity, and the finer the
lace and the more costly the fur the surer
| they are to receive fashions approval Last
| winter it was thought that the limit of eX-
| travagance in 1urs had been reached. such
| tremendous sums having been lavished upon
furs in general, as well as furs in par
ticular, but apparently the appetite for lux
ury grows apace, and now the demand for
the most costly of skins goes on increas-
Ing, and ON every sort of gown, whether
intended for the street or the house, fur
| trimming is to be noticed
| The possession of fur coat has become
| almost necessity in these days of out
door sport, and especially in motoring SO
| that quite early in the autumn cloth coats
| lined with fur and also entire fur coats
make their appearance. These are of all
kinds and descriptions, from the inexpen-
sive to the very expensive, and while they
do not all look especially smart at all
events they possess the great charm of be-
ing delightfully."- warm and comfortable.
|
And the day, fortunately. is past when
thin coats and wraps are considered much
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

seldom at the title page, so that he might
finish story and lay book aside without
knowing who wrote 1t. or having the ghost
of an Idea as to its publisher. To treat an
teous as to walk into the house of a stran-
ger and seat yourself without ceremony
in the drawing room. 1t Is as discourteous
as to go to party and neither speak to
your host when you enter nor take leave
of him when you depart
The first thing to do when book comes
into your hand Is to ascertain who wrote
II and what house sends It forth II there
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

is a preface read that. In the preface an
author takes pains TO explain why he has
written his book and for whom 1t is In
tended Having read one book and having
found 1t profitable. the natural order of
procedure Is so soon as you can to procure
something else from the same pen.
There is no disadvantage intellectually
in becoming very familiar during a season
with single author. II the author be
thoughtful, scholarly and wise, read all his
books, so far you can. consecutively. and
do not dfssipate your energies by taking
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

one may find out by visiting the nearest
library and CHANGING into the latest edition
of Who's Who. II one loves an author very
much and has had great pleasure or help
In the family Is a household word, and one
would willingly take journey to clasp his
hand. write aim a letter; tell him the ex-
tent of the friendly debt, and ask child
might, whatever he Is willing, to reveal.
Such a letter will probably be gracious.y
received.
The careless reaaer of book concerns
himself with the book itself and looks very
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

II he is a good fellow. he is popular, and
IL he Is crusty and a curmudgeon, he Is
charitably supposed to be eccentric.
In our days few authors affect oddities of
dress or behavior. They look. act and talk
very much as other citizens do. Eccen-
tricity is not badge of genius, although
IL may be misfortune of genius
There are useful compilations which one
may consult If he have to write a paper
for a literary club. Whatever one needs
to know in terse. condensed form about
Edward Everett Hale John Burroughs,
Rudyard kipEng or Mrs. Humphrey Ward
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

IElTHER our modistes nor our NIL
III liners can find any trimming so eff
fective as rich and handsome fur
Fur shows up to advantage any ma
terial however ineffective, or any color no
matter how pale. and when combined either
with heavy plush or with most delicate lace
each seems only to Offset the other. Hap
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29
Fancy Braids in Partisan Headwear.

From the Millinery Trade Review.
Chenille and other fancy braid will GER
tainly be used this winter, but more for
making toques than hats. Chenille tissue
is also utilized to cover small hats and
toques and to make soft beret crowns.
A very pretty small hat has one of these
crowns built of crimson chenille tissue and
velvet brfm to match and for trimming
some very large velvet anemones. In other
models the chenille tissue is used for the
entire shape interviewer with ribbons.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29
SA5L E. M1ANT1 r,

PLY, this winter fur trimming Is very
much In vogue, and not only one, but two
adjoining an opera cloak or an afternoon
costume of cloth or velvet. Ball gowns,
too, are trimmed in the same way, although
rather sparingly and only with sable
ermine, but theater wraps and opera cloaks
both depend chiefly upon lace and fur COM
bined for their trimming. The handsomest
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

reception dresses are this year worth their
weight in gold, or, rather, fur, because of
their elaborate sable and ermine trimming.
For an opera coat ermine is very beauti-
full, whether the wrap itself be of the fur
trimmed with lace, or vice versa, the real
lace cloak being finished with deep bands
of ermine. Sable with lace is exquisite. A
more than ordinarily effective evening wrap
seen this year was of point lace laid over
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

Tho craze for trimming can be noticed in
these fur coats in the braiding that is used,
for, while here again the conservative
minded will not have the beauty of the fur
marred by any trimming, on the other hand
both the plain and fancy braids are now
used on everything. and fur as well as
cloth must needs come into the category.
There is quite a discussion going on as to
whether the high storm collar or the col
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29
T69RUbATXTofA PERSIAN LAMB


VIII.
They say the Stole and Pillow Muff will keep
The same Styles as last Winter, broad and
deep:
And though great Bargain Hunters, with
Wild Eyes,
Try to beat down, they cannot make them
cheap.
Heaven but the Vision of a new Fur Coat,
And He'll the Old One, made think, of Goat,
Cast in the Rag Bag, unto which ourselves.
Though lately purchased, They so soon shall
Tote.
And when the Lady said l didn't Fit.
Although the Tailor would no fault admit.
There came an Angel Shape and tried me
And, sure enough. l wasn't right a Bit!
What, out of Russian Sable to evoke
A Sailor Collar or a sort of Yoke!
IT'S unpermitted on this Style of Wrap
Though it might answer for an Evening
Cloak.
Would you attend that Fearful Bargain Jam
Whose Furs are Imitation and a Sham?
The Hair perhaps denotes the False or
True:
Thus may you know Nearfur and Amilamb,
The Hair perhaps denotes the False or True;
Yes, and single Test May be the Clew.
Could you discover If tbs dyed or bleaehed-
(This, peradventure Of the Buyer tooD
XIV.
And since the Coat they make, the seam
they press.
End In what All begins and ends in-yes;
Think of your price Today! What Yester-
You were! Tomorrow you shall be marked
less!
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

Mating should be washed with salt and
water, but not with soap. Rub the way OF
the straw, not across II, and then wipe
dry. The salt in the water prevents the
mating from turning yellow.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29
Improving Starch.

When making boiled starch add to IT a
small quantity of gum arabic previously
dlssolved) and salt. Clothes starched with
this will not stick to the iron.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29


Come fill your Purse and go a. Bargaining:
Away your Shabby Winter garment fling;
The Persian Lamb has but a little way
To fiutter-and the Lamb is on the Spring.
From me the Coat of Fashion do they sew,
OF mine own Skin make Wrap or Paletot;
And this is all the Harvest that we Reap
We come like Lambkins and like Goats we
go.
Myself when young did eagerly frequent
. Department Stores, and heard great argu-
ment
About it and about Yet customers
Came out with newer Fur than in they went.
w.
(Following the Train of Thought of c..
Khayyam)-
That many a Redingote the Ladies wear
Grew on the Back of some once lovely
Lamb.
All. My Beloved. vandaIs they. and Goths
Who use the Skins of Lambs instead of
Tomorrow-why, Tomorrow may be
Myself with Yesterdays Seven Thousand
Moths.
Yet, ah. that Spring should Danish all such
Clothes,
And that Ill-scented Tar Balls must repose
Among the Coats laid in the Cedar Chest.
All, whence and whittier worn again, who
knewsi
Indeed, indeed. Chinchilla oft before
They wore-but were They Stylish when
They wore?
And then the Furriers came-and Shears
in Hand,
Broadtail and Astrakhan they used Galore.
The Hawaiian gazette., 1905-11-07


marine companies outside and that big
to
eff the local people their they
the boat locally; they could their goods There
many which money which islands
could be retained here.
81 believe that Mr. McCandess will
Coast in determining whether procured
this project In addition he is practical engineer
eral and this will aid him greatly The
will all from here, and understand money
ready demand Over 100000 told already
scribed
Il believe it would be better have
but coming here three weeks would lose the
vantage that could be room
for boats.
when San Francisco understood
booked through passenger
c Some of is for Honolulu There enough
vessels service everybody When the
the Pacific Mail and the Oceanic Companies built
pected they would be able supply all demands But traffic
the Pacific has beyond all antcpaons
to grow and Honolulu is going to reap the benefit
Take San Francisco for instance That city growing
rapidly that their begin take the traffic
The Market line keep enough going
demands The city will shortly have traffic problem which
solve have other cities The feryboats
be increased number for the bay cities growing rapidly
There no boom there is steady growth The overflow is
find its way down here but
them travel that's certain"
Manager Gray Alexander Young
there will be large Honolulu this winter He
ceving letters mail from mananders stating that they
have booked for this port
Much of the booking the steamers said Gray
intending here But there be
bookings for couple of months Everything about taken up
~ Mullen assistant of the Palace Hotel who with
his wife, has been visiting the islands for weeks
yesterday the Knau from the Volcano again registered
the Young Hotel He enthusiastic volcano trip
has enjoyed his the islands, and has visited about every
of tourist attraction He has taken the island trip largely
for the purpose of becoming acquainted with the attractions
that he may give ready information patrons of the Palace Hotel
who may wish to take the Honolulu trip
The Hawaiian gazette., 1905-11-07
HALEAKALA TRAIL
NOW COMPLETED

1t will be of general interest to the
people of the islands to learn that the
Haleakala trail is now completed to
the top of the crater. And what has
hitherto been somewhat difficult trip
is now made easy to anyone who can
ride horseback. From any part of CEN
trial or West Maui one may drive to
Olinda, which is but eight and one-half
miles from the top of the crater. Even
a stranger may now ride to the Cath
Ollie church at Makawao and from that
as a land mark follow the finger posts
to the top and not be under the neces-
Isity of taking guide.
Contractor j. Duggan of Honolulu
had the contract to open the trail. He
cleared out the loose stones and cut
and cleared away the bush to a width
of twenty feet. The finger boards are
set one-fifth Of mile apart and give
the distance on each.
And in between every two finger
board posts Is a plain guide post so
that anyone should find his way with
out difficulty.
S. r. Dowdle is collecting funds for
the repair of the stone house built at
the top of Haleakala by Hon. II. p.
Baldwin and 1t is predicted that he will
meet with no difficulty securing the re-
quired funds and soon have the house
in good repair. Little Flea Cave, how
ever, is near the top and provides am
pie shelter for all who may wish to
make the trip.
No trip to the islands is complete
without including Haleakala, as 1t has
the largest crater on earth, being about
thirty miles in circumference and two
thousand feet deep, while the top of
the crater is over ten thousand feet
high.
AS one stands on the summit and
views the surrounding horizon one
seems to be standing in the center of
an immense bowl and the ocean seems
to be many feet above entirely en-
circling the island.
Come one, come all. and view this
the grandest sight of Maui.-Maui
News.