The times dispatch. [volume] (Richmond, Va.) 1903-1914, 1905-10-03
A Tribute to Southern G oolss.

transplhntcd TO England and anxious TO
I've comfortably after tho American
style, finds that In order to do SO she
,nust send for Virginia cook to pre-.
side over her kitchen. The New York
kIail tells the story and iii 30 doing takes
occasion to pay tribute& Ito southern
cooking: fS s8 S5
probably" says the Mall, she yenrns
for chicken a la Maryland, gtimbo Soup,
iprrapin and canvasbacks with the homo
touch To them nnd All occasional Sally
Lunn Even n real Virginia hoecuke
would undoubtedly taste good In the land
ot underdone roast beef and opulcnt plum
pudding. 85fS3
Then comes the Mails con fesslon OF
the superiority OF southern cookery and
i.s explanation. 4
Native southern cookery, in the
hands Of a real mistress Of the art Is
better than any other kind OF American
Cookery it remarksa This Gun be con-
tessed In the North without shame, for
ere is real reason for 1t. Southern
cookery has more traditions, more hstor-
lcul continuity, behind It than northern
cookery. Grinding want and Puritan abb
stemiousness combined to stamp out old.
fashioned English cookery In New Eng
land, putting nothing in It's place. and
the disappearance OF the Dutch them
selves as 4 distinctive people wrecked
The vlands OF Holland In, this State, pre-
venting the development Of anything
characteristic in the New York cuisine.
Presumably the Quakers, as contemners
Of the worlds weaknesses and appetites,
raid no particular attention. to cookery
ir pennsylvania. But in Virginia the
case was entirely different. The people
there continued TO eat we'll form the
start. They found abundance OF native
game. They cultivated the arts land
graces of hospitality. They had slaves,
and they taught such of those slaves as
they found tit for household service to
compound good dishes quite regardless
Of the cost OF the ingredients. They
cnErafted upon the cuisine ofa9the
Cavaliers certain indigenous preparations
y hich have stood the test Of time. These
are worthy to be transported back toSolEd
England
The New Orleans Times-Democrat is
sratided that so rank northern paper
rs the Mail should make this conces-
sion to the South, but Is resentful that
al, the cerdit should be accorded TO Viz
GINA. In so doing. says our southern
contemporary. the New York Mall has
rot done Justice to the other States of the
South, which have contributed to the
culinary cause. why should it overlook
what South Carolina has done with Its
jambalsyas in exploiting the virtue OF
rights?n asks the Tinles-Denocrat. and
Louisiana, it adds. lis altogether and
unjrst!y ignored, although one OF the
soutl1e:1 dishes The Mail praises-''sumoo
sap" as 1t calls it's disiinctively a
Louisiana, in :enlicn. III PTnba big the Mail
does not know that gurabo is not "a SOUP
hut q score or more of SOUPS Louisiana
can unquestionab!y claim some credit for
itself in many great gastronoIn!c dis
coyeries, in it's soups, salads. sauces and
its modes OF cooking fish. invented here,
aud in no way derived or borrowed from
virginia. THE table here has from
t7e earIies, days Of Louisiana received
The attention IL deserves; and what the
Mail said Of Virginia cooking can be
said with equal ruth otihe Creble cuisine.
4 has proved as attractive and pleasant
IT, strangers; and there Is scarcely a
visitor 10 New Orleans who has gone
away without singing the praise OF New
| Orleans cooking. That great English
gourmet. George Augustus Sala. gave
tle greater portion Of one OF the chap
iers in his autobiography 70 describing
| fis satisfaction over wfa, ne ate here
Speaking for Virginia We are very
| willing 10 give fun credit 10 the doInes
! tic science of our sister States in the
| South, but neither the Mall nor The
| THINGS Democra: has done full justice tt
| Virginia. we believe there IS ne
| ham In the world. for example, cqua
/ 10 the Virginia product, even as q raw
! material, and ~c feel cure that THU
/ .uxury Is cooked nowhere as delIc!ousl,
! Dis on It's native heath. There are vege
| tables also which have no flavor suci
aa IL impaired by the old time Vir
GINA cook When visiting abroad, "
rayc sometimes called for 'cymlins,
| ond we have been served with mushy
insip:d dish which no true virginia.
could tolerate II is to the old-fashlone
Virginia fried cym!n" az moonlight !
to sunlight, or as water Is TO wine, w
might prolong indefinitely the list 0
dellcacies, hut we conclude by slmpl
raining that dish OF all dishes which va
horn In Virginia. and Whicl, Is the prid
of every first class Virginia cook-i
rakcs ones mouth water to think Of IT.
Brunswick stew.
I'VE have sometimes thought that It wa
} this savory stew which the willy Jaco
used to tempt his brothers appetite an
lnat 1t was los, to the culinary art TO b
revived by Virginia cook. And whe
that thought has come to us VIC hay
lad great sympathy with Esau
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