Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-06-18


phce effects are the fancies OF the
~ moment. and. indeed, promise to be
worn all summer Black GOWNS in
particular. in thin materials. with ,hnse lace
or lingerie accessories, are seen on numbers
OF smart dressers.
The white guimpes are not only soften
ing setting for almost any face out they
possess the merit of being removable, SO
that they may be Numbered as do also the
separate undersleeves, and as it Is around
the neck and the wrists that summer gowns
are usually soiled, several sets of these
lingerie accessories enable one TO have prac-
dcally fresh frock every day
Freshly cleaned or Numbered niulls, laces
and linens appeal 10 every woman of refine
ment far more than richer materials and
accessories that cannot be cleaned and so
il is more than probable that the present
reign of lingerie accessories for runabout,
shopping, travelling and gowns for other
than ceremonious or evening wear viii con-
tnde.
Short skirts-and they seem to grow short
er every Week-With Short EtonS having
elbow sleeves and cut away around the
neck to show a N-shaped section of the
white under blouse. or else bodices gathered
INTO belt and with elbow sleeve and deep
VS. designed to meet the guinpe and
underSleeYeS fad are seen on many fashion,
able women. Sometimes these guimpes and
sleeves are of Irish crochet over some thin
material In this case the undersieeves
arc tight cuffs from the elbows 70 the
wrists, and the stock attached to the
guimpe is high and is feather-boned One
such gown was the other day on a
slim but well-formed woman with dark hair
and eyes, with huge single pearls in her
ears.
The gown itself was a thin black silk.
The skirt was laid in side plaits stitched
down fiat nearly to the knees, and the
bodice was tight-fitting surplice the ends
crossing in both the back and the front and
ending under narrow belt of silk folds.
The VS. in both the back and the front ex-
tended TO within four inches of the waist
line, but were not very wide. The sleeves
were single. moderately full puffs that
ended just below the elbows in silk folds
running around the arms The long under
sleeves were tight cuffs of Irish crochet
over white China silk and the VS. in the
bodice were the same with a high-shaped
stock attached; the stock was also silk
lined. A small oval toque in black crinoline,
with white roses at one side and trimmed
with tulle, topped it. and black suede gloves,
one-button affairs, were worn with it.
Another frock also in black and white,
and an example of the guimpe and sleeves
mentioned above, was recently seen. This
gown was fine black pongee.
The skirt was shirred tightly around the
hips to depth of eight inches. 1t was, of
course. quite full and 1t escaped the floor
by two inches Three tucks, each four
inches wide and each four inches above the
hem, were its decoration.
The bodice had bretelle sections that
formed much OF the waist. \ stock and
very deep vest of fine white net with large,
plain polka dots formed the deep VS. and
the stock. The SleeyeS-elbow sleeves, or,
rather. they ended just above the elbows
were apparently gathered slightly at both
the inner and outer seams and were nm
ished at the bottom with a bias strip per-
han incl wild 10 n @ az
sides by three-quarter-lnch ruftie of dot
ted lace. From under these sleeves dropped
& four-nch section covered with narrow
.nch-wide ruffies of the dotted lace, just
overlapping each other; these lace-trimmed
undersleeves covered the elbows and ex-
tended over the tops of the elbow-length
black glace gloves.
The bodice itself, as indicated, had deep
V in the back well as the front The
sides of the bodice were shirred over slight
ly at the shoulder seams, and the shirred
sections were brought together in surplice
effect. but did not cross, and at the bottom
the front sections were shirred into a width
of three inches; the ends fell below the
waist line over the skirt: these bretelle ends
were oval in shape and some seven or eight
inches long by five wide. They were edged
with inch-wide lace ruff1es matching the
lace used elsewhere, and these ruffieS ran
up, two on each edge, half inch apart.
ran up over edge of the bretelles and down
the back where similar bretelles ends ap-
ice were of the silk and were plain. A round
black crinoline turban with white ostrich
tips topped it.
Pale blue pongee or rajai silk is being
much worn. 1t looks cooler than the ecru
or other and cleans just as we'll Mrs.
Stuyvesant Fish had an afternoon gown of
the material. distinguished by its deep
shaped girdle or corselet with sections that
extend down the front from the girdle sec
ton to the floor.
The skirt more than touches the ground.
1t Is laid in pressed-in box plaits at the
top to below the hips. and then the plaits
being released, fall in full folds, broken only
by two or three very wide tucks, say three
or four inches deep. These tucks do not
band the skirt like hoops, but are broken
each section of the skirt being SO tucked