Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-09

the bandeau and was laid in plaits as
facing to the under brim; the wire under
the brims edge was covered with red vel
vet, the tulle extending out over it in
plated ruche effect.
A quaint gown ordered in Paris for a tail
New York matron of slight figure, and de-
scribed In a private letter from abroad. is
as follows: The guimpe and stock are of
pale green crepe embroidered In silver. and
the coat bodice top falls away from the
guimpe in bertha effect; the guimp is
yoke-shaped and the bertha effect of the
body Is produced by two rounded sections
OF silver gray broadcloth that are plain
where they Join the coat body. that IS
there are tucks, plaits or gathers. but
they are SO cut that the outer edges fall in
slight folds. The upper bertha section is
two inches narrower than the lower. This
lower one extends out over the shoulders
and the tops of the sleeves. Each section
is edged by narrow roll braid Of pale
green with dull silver threads showing
here and there.
The body of the coat is tight fitting, hav-
ing many seams and runs down in a deep,
sharp point in the back. and almost
equally long in the front, the tip of the
back point being nine inches from the
waist line. At the sides the bodice extends
two inches below the waist line. 1t is fin
ished with line of ball braid matching
that on the bertha, and is closed in front
by small silver buttons. The sleeves
rather close at the top, but not tight, 4
few gathers giving sufficient fullness. They
end at the elbow IN bias turned back cuffs
three inches wide, having at the top silver
and green braid, and also having a large
silver cabochon on each. Two deep, over
tapping founces of white lace the lower
one almost reaching the wrist and the
bodice being in two wide bias folds, much
like deep tucks of the Swiss; extending out
from under these, rounding in at the back
and front and extending out over the raised
punS OF the sleeves, are two knife-blade
plaitngs of the Swiss. each edged with an
inch-wide edging of the black lace the
outer plating being three inches wider
than that next the plat. These frills round
in under black velvet bows. as mentioned
above. The bodice has tight-ftting foun-
ola ton of white chiffon taffeta over which
the Swiss is drawn in soft scant folds that
run around the body: these folds start from
the under-arm seams and end in the CEN
ter seams down the back and the front; in
the front, where the one side laps over the
other, the Swiss forms a narrow double
ruching, edged with black lace. The bodice
has no girdle, but extends two inches below
the waist line all around, being perhaps
three inches deeper in the front, but show
ing no point. ., s..f,,
The ruched edge finished with black lace
extends not only down the bodice front
but also down the skirt to the trimming
at the bottom, as the skirt has a simulated
opening down the entire front Tiny black
Elm tiOCltl bullOHS IN groups or three each
extend from the bust line to the skirt ruch-
lngs inside the ruched line. The skirt is
gathered slightly around the top and is of
round length The decoration at the foot is
three rows of five-inch plaitings of Swiss.
with black lace on both edges. These ruches
are stitched through the center and their
upper edges are invisibly tackled to the
skirt A distance of perhaps two inches
is left between each plating.
The sleeves, of elbow length, form full
raised puffs at the top. the upper two-thirds
Its length form the sleeve finish.
Inc skirt, like the coat bodice is of silver
gray chiffon cloth with a square train and
Is Joined to the coat in full quill folds at
the back and sides, but with very small
nat pIaits at the front 1t opens in the
center front over a panel of green crepe
embroidered in silver. and under each edge
Is narrow 1ounce of duchesse lace match
Ing that in the sleeves. The lower part of
the panel has six graduated rows of box
plating in pale green tulle set across it,
each row its own width from the next