Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-15
}GBSqI6&E6 90 81

burn up. Where one thread has both cot
ton and wool 1t Is tested by the strength
OF the thread. II it pulls apart easily and
readily 1t is wool and If it is hard to pull
1t Is cotton. So the combination OF cotton
and wool Is the better wearing material.
but not so soft looking, and fades, as the
cotton does not take the dye SO well as
the wool. Then sthe girls are told about
the tests for silk If 1t is hard some fiber
is mixed In. Or, again. If 1t tears readily
It Is not good. If II Is all silk and of coed
finish it will not burn readily, but If 1t is
finished with some chemical it Is inflamma-
bic. To see whether the threads will sepa-
rate, take corner of the silk between
thumb and forefnger and pull through the
bias. If In doing this the threads separate
they will do the same in the seams. and 1t
IS therefore not profitable piece of silk.
They are instructed in shades and kind of
materials. and by experience the sense of
touch is quickened. When new silks come
out they, without troubling any one or TAX
Ing anothers word. are able to tell if they
Will be good wearing silks.
To shop inteliigently one must know
about the fibers. They must know that
round thread, and especially in linen, is a
better wearing thread and much prettier
ma terial For instance, so many of the
linen suits this season have been a failure.
Had people selected the round thread linen
the suits would not crush so easily and
look soiled when they really are not and
the round thread Will make q much hand
somer suit Some dealers will say there is
no round thread
In these little turnover collars and cuffs
1T does not matter whether they are cotton
or linen, especially If they are made out
of linen lawn that has the round thread
1t costs just about half and is just as eff
fective and pretty. In the fine material
the round thread may be told by the crisp
ness.
In shopping educate the fingers as we'll
as the eyes and use common sense and
Judgment
n .+n
they are going to wear the dress for which
they are buying the material, and so they
get something totally inappropriate to
color and style.
know about the fiber and why it shrinks
That the fiber is composed of little scales.
and when it is dampened these little scales
or knobs keep knitting together closer and
closer. When it is all wool, the finer the
wool is and the closer together these little
Joints are the less 1t will shrink. 1t is not
the quality that makes broadcloths so ex
pensive. but the elaborateness of the pro-
cess of their development.
These are some of the things the daugh-
ter of the house should learn, unless she
is able to pay some one of shopping sense
to act for her and even then she would
find 1t a practical knowledge worth having
Il suppose you find a great difference in
the, ways women Shop?' was asked a girl
at the lace counter. Her smile told of in
stances too numerous to mention. You see
that woma that Just left? I've had time
with her. Her mind knew but she was not
clever enough to describe what she wanted.
She asked for braid. | directed her to
the braid department That was not 1t.
Surely ought to know what she meant.
It had little curlycues that went round
some way or other, she had forgotten just
how. Well. what she wanted was an APP
pliqued lace"
Garnitures-
Form a most important part Of the shop
ping tour this season. They are to be used
extensively with all gowns, street costumes,
reception frocks and evening gowns.
The shops are showing an aesthetic dis
play and OF course the elaborate ones are
exceedingly expensive, but skiIIful needle
woman may copy them successfully at a
fairly reasonable expenditure, and two or
three sets will give her the appearance Of
many times that number Of changes.
Chiffon raised roses in delicate shades are
in vine form and sell by the yard at 81 95.
This the clever needlewoman can purchase
and applique on to some suitable fabric In
white and adorn an evening broadcloth.
Something really smart has been con-
ceived for an added touch to the clever
plaid suit, and that Is the trimmings of
leather that fashion has decreed for 1t, and
she seems to have been unusually alert In
this. for it gives stunning, yet modest eff
feet. These leather skins are made into
berthas, belts, collars and cuffs. "A navy
blue plaid, combining tones of red and yell
low, would seek red leather,
Another popular fancy for the tailored
modes this season employs three or four
different widths of braid as a trimming.
The French styles regulate the vests.
which, by the way, are exceedingly clever
and quite the thing. They are much ex-
aggerated in length and pointed, and
great display may be seen in white broad
cloth, embroidered In elaborate designs.
These are, of course, for evening and car
rage use Here again imitation may be
INDUCED in and these Vestings bought al
small cost in all colors and designs Broad
cloth bought, and little skillful needle
work does the rest
One of these garnitures Is all the trim
ming needed.
English eyelet embroidery as well as the
real Persian embroidery finds favor
Little gold Milan drops are effective. and
also the colored rings which they put upon
laces.
Peter Thompson sets are pretty and run
in most all colors