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The free lance. (Fredericksburg, Va.) 1885-1926, 1905-11-02
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The free lance. (Fredericksburg, Va.) 1885-1926, 1905-11-02
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The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04


Null and batiste negligees are to be
worn all winter. and if they are not
warm enough they will be lined with
slip of pale blue or pale pink china silk
made exactly as full and tackled into
place down the front under the ruff
filings Nothing can be daintier than
these sheer, soft materials, which come
out of the tub looking as fresh as when
they were new. A favorite model con-
sists of the empire style, belted in I'M
der the bust with a wide lace beading
through which pink or blue satin ribbon
is run. The sleeves are made of ruff
hes. They reach to the bend of the
arm. and one stunning model saw had
down the front of the arm slit which
was held together by two rows OF cream
satin ribbon. A great deal of inexpen-
sive German valenciennes is used to
trim these little negligees, and a bertha
or sailor collar of deep lace edging
and insertion improves them greatly.
In the shops they cost fabulous sums
but any clever woman can make one at
home for a third of the cost. The one
essential is that there should be plenty
of fuIlness and, if possible, from the
knees down a wide f1ounce, which is
much cut up with designs in insertion.
Now that the new bolster is with us
it is a wonder to me that any one clings
TO the Old fashioned pillow arrange
ment which is always topping down
and looking untidy.
The new bolster is made Of wood. The
light frame, being hollow, provides a
place for the pillows during the day
time. It is made to ut the bed, and
when the colored slip is placed over it
and the lace bolster cover over that the
whole presents a correct appearance
which cannot be rivaled.
And, speaking of bed spreads and boil
ster covers, by far the daintiest and the
most economical are those made of net,
with a lace border and a lace figure in
] the center. These may be obtained for
such a low price in any of the shops
that it is a waste of time to attempt
! their manufacture at home. They never
soil apparently, and when placed over
pale blue or pink sateen or silk they are
| very pretty.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

RO gain standing and recognf-
ton for women engaged in
the ancient and honorable oc-
cupation of their sex was part
OF the plan of Nine. Baker when four
years ago she founded the National As
ISOLATION of Dressmakers. How she
came to establish it is an interesting
story, interviewer as it is with the his
tory of her own life.
Nine. Baker was born in Elmira, n.
Y. There as a girl, Nellie Jones. she
went to school and lived till she accom-
panied her parents to Kansas. Then,
as happens to most girls, in due course
she was married. Next, as also in these
days happens frequently, misfortunes-
or was it good fortune made it nee
essary a little later for the young wife
to earn her living.
She had alwaysa been noted for her
skill and taste in planning and making
her own gowns. Beauty and originality
OF design, exquisite sewing and orna-
namental needIework had made Nellie
Jones' dresses famous among her wom-
en- acquaintance. Artistic gifts are
not bestowed on the wielder of the
brush and m0deler in clay alone. They
are given as well to the plier Of the lit
tie needle.
When she was obliged to earn money
the friends who had envied her talent
for beautiful costuming. said to her:
why don't you 60 to dressmaking?
There's your chance"
Sewing by the day in families first
presented itself Young Mrs. Baker
tried it for one day. She went home at
night so forlorn and discouraged that
she shrank in terror from future that
held in it only going out sewing by the
day Her brave, resourcefuI mind
quickly framed a future. She borrowed
some money and hired a small fat in
chicago and went to live there with her
little son. In the small apartment she
opened a modest dressmaking shop.
The young worker was and is a re-
fined gentlewoman, with good will tn
all and malice toward none. consider
tious to the last degree in her work.
prompt and careful in fulfilling her
promises. Good to look at is she as
well with her fair, gentle face and dark.
soft eyes. And then the beautiful cos
tunes that, because Of her artistic gift.
she turned outl
Work came in, piles and piles of it,
FAR more than she could do. soon the
small fiat was exchanged. for a LARGE
house. and the artistic dressmal<er was
at the head of an establishment which
numbered more than a hundred employ
ees on it's payroll. 1t shows what a.
grand field there is in America for the
dressmaker who knows her business.
Mrs. Baker in time made trips to the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

wholly undeveIoped in the matter of
artistic designing and color combina-
ton. The dainty, careful sewing which
chara cterizes French garments was
lacking on those of American make.
The French experiences with the needle
comes only by years of patient practice,
a practice American dressmakers either
could not or would not take time for.
Women from the United States who
have had gowns made in Paris have OBJ
served that it takes twice as long there
to have a garment completed as it does
in America, and the fact is really the
reverse of creditable to the costumer
this side of the water. It hints too
much of the slap dash. pitch together
style of work.
Mime. Bakers costume displays at her
shop became noted. One day a firm en-
gagged in manufacturing Innings, braids
and dressmakers' supplies of all kinds
called on her and asked her if for a con-
sideration she would permit their Gus
tomers-special ones whom they should
choose and send-to visit her place and
inspect the imported costumes. Nine.
Baker agreed. The first year 100 crafts
women, both from within and outside
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04
THE STRENU0SlTY
OF W0MAN'S WORK.

NJ OF long ago 7 listened to an ad-
dress by P. Mammalian, a
learned oriental. He had never
been in America before and gave US
some of his impressions of the people
here. Among other things. he said:
Americans talk necessarily fourteen
hours a. day-rattle, rattle, rattle, from
morning till night"
Since the learned Hindoo during his
stay among US had been associated es-
pecially with women, the lecture-at-
tending half of the population in the
United States, really, I could not help
taking that observation as personal to
the feminine sex. Rattle, rattle, rat
tie, fourteen hours a dayi'' have been
meditating on it, taking notes and sum-
ming up conclusions. find, first, that
women are quite generally lacking in
nerve control; that far too few of them
have the power to remain calm, steady
and strong in trying situations. There
seems no reserve nerve force for them
to fall back on.
The second point arrived at from ac-
tual observation is that many women
use exactly four times as many words
as they need to do or should do in max
ing simple statement. For instance,
on the street the other day a mother
was taking her little three-year-old girl
out for an airing. The mother had
stopped to speak to an acquaintance
The child was attracted to something
on the sidewalk. Suddenly the mother
started up and screamed at the infant:
Come along. Lille! Hurry up right
away quick this minute. If you don't
run, I'll so off and leave you! Hurry
up, nowi"
The child was used to this sputtering
and spluttering, evidently, for she did
not quicken her pace by a hairs
breadth. The mother would have made
quite as strong an impression and con-
served all the nerve energy she wasted
in pronouncing twenty three words in
stead of three if she had said simply.
but calmly and distinctly, Come along,
Lille"
That is woman's way.
The next morning was passing along
a street leading to a park. It was Sun
day, and father was taking his little
girl, perhaps two and a half years old,
for a walk. The child stopped and sat
down upon a step. Her father looked
at her and said, Come along, baby"
and walked leisurely on. "Oh. no." said
the child, 81 goin' to stay here"
"Au right" answered papa. @stay
there, then" not stopping a moment
in his slow walk, not even looking back.
Baby saw it and got of the step at
once, calling, 81 comm, papa and hur-
ried her small feet to overtake her ia
Their.
That is mans way.
In the park I passed various women.
most of them talking as hard and as
fast as they could, pouring out their
precious nerve force in jerAy, super
abundant vocabuIation-
Il saws to him, I says, 4 don't believe
III go there today says, an he says.
why don't your he says, and he says,
You ought to- he says. and I says, I
don't think So =" and the last I heard
was that interminable he says and
says, and he says and says, and he
says flowing on like Tennyson's brook.
IF the ordinary woman in her CONVEX
sation would stop the reckless waste Of
1 energy expended even in that useless,
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

stick out in an embossed erect, which
embossed effect, by the way, adds ma
terially to the price per yard
Skirts and coats are enormously full
The Skinny" box coat is a thing of the
past The new article must ripple in
every direction, and that all means ex-
ira yards. As for skirts, they are made
of the most supple materials, so that
they viii stand much shirring and full
ness. 1t is true that an attempt is be-
ing made to introduce the circular skiHt,
but up to date it is seen on compare
lively few costumes. AIore's the pity,
for it is a graceful style and easy to
make at home. which is more than can
be said for the shirred models.
The empire coat has its vOtaries along
Fifth avenue principally; but, take my
word for it, it has not come to stay, for
the style is not one which is becoming
to the average American woman. It
never takes over here as it does on
the other side.
Oh. me. oh my, but the hats are gor-
geous. and the prices are gorgeous too!
Birds of paradise tails and the most
expensive gold and silver trimmings
are seen on every other chapeau.
Several women of my acquaintance
ing a class which meets twice a week at
the home of one of the members and
has a regular rnilliner as instructor.
The idea is not to go into the bust
ness, but to learn to make their own
everyday hats. And, indeed, it is time
for women to wake up to the possible
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04
DON'T NAG.

Constant dropping wears away a
stone might be altered to Constant
nagging wears away a saint" for one
sees some of the finest men in creation
belittled and made into morose, irrita-
BILE creatures by a small tyrant of
wife, for it is neary always the best
who give in.
The man or woman with a large, gen
erous nature, too good hearted to be al
ways quibbling and quarreling over
petty trifies. is the easiest sort of prey
for a household tyrant. A woman who
makes scenes" and uses her tears and
weakness as a weapon for tyranny can
often subject the strongest man to her
whims and caprices.
She pays a heavy price for her vic
tory. for he ceases to love her. She
rules because he is a gentleman and
rightly regards such matrimonial scenes
as vulgar. But his heart soon becomes
cold. He is her husband legally, but
her hold on his love is gone. For love
flies out at the window when tyranny
comes in at the door.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04
Everythina Must Matoh.

Fashion is so exacting of late it de-
mands that everything shall match, and
this means a tremendous outlay for the
woman who has to pay from SIS to S25
for a hat The materials, too, are a
great deal more common than those she
need employ if she makes her own cha
peaux. for it is well known that if milli-
ners do not make at least 100 per cent
profit they are not satisfied.
So my advice to you is make your own
hats, and you will have plenty of them.
I saw yesterday q creation made by
one of the millinery students I speak
of. and really it was very good First
she bought one of those buckram shapes
which may be obtained at almost any
dry goods store. She covered this
with pearl gray velvet and bound the
edge with a narrow silver ribbon folded
over. The underbrim was filed in with
ruchings Of paIest gray net, and a ruche
of this trimmed the top of the hat. In
to the latter there were sewed at inter-
walls silver leaves, and a large bird of
paradise in pale gray fastened at one
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04
New York.
soLp AGAIN.

It was 6 O'Clock p. m, and the street
cars were crowded. A tired looking wo-
man, with a bundle of familiar shape
under her cape, was vainly trying to
keep her balance in the aisle. a fat
man, who was also among those who
stood, looked at her compassiOnately.
There was a rustic under her cape.
keep still, dear; keep STILL" she said
sadly. The fat man could stand it no
longer. why don't one O. you young
chaps give up a seat to this lady with
baby?" he growled. Thus goaded, two
or three sheepish young men offered
their seats, and the tired woman sank
gratefully into one of them. Then it
was that a bald headed parrot poked its
beak from under the cape and screech-
ed, sold AGAIN.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

a best dress they
allow to hang in the closet until it gets
antiquated instead of getting some use
out of it. Then when they finally de-
eide to wear it it has gone out of style
and must be thrown away.
These people always remind me of
the old woman whose stock of potatoes
had spoiled in her damp cellar. A kind
hearted neighbor sent her a fine bag OF
potatoes to take their place, but when
the old lady saw them she was so inn
pressed that she decided it would be
shame to begin on them while any of
the others remained So she went on
eating rotten potatoes and saving the
new ones until one fine day, when it
was time to begin on the new bag, she
found that they, too, were rotten
So much for false economy. It is a
pet sin with many women.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04
CALLING GOWN OF CHIFFON GRAPE.

don't see any long sleeves on smart
gowns, Sc my advice to the girl with
homeIy arms is to start right in to do
as much homework as possible. Ger
tainly there is nothing that improves
the arms more. Fortunately pretty
arms are far easier to obtain than a
pretty neck.
If you still have the remains Of the
summers tan and freckles whitening
lotion or liquid powder may be obtained
at any drug store. If you apply this
evenly while it is wet it will not be de-
tected in the daytime, but don't use it
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04
A sensihIe suaaestion.


II you have view from one of your
windows which is not all that could be
desired, why don't you hang straight
inner curtain between the shades and
the lace curtain? This may be in
fieur- de-lis or any other pretty all over
pattern. This sort of figured net comes
by the yard and is very inexpensive
Make hem at the bottom and insert a
piece of brass rod to hold the curtain
straight. If you wish, you may also
sew a piece of lace edging on the lower
edge to make it more fancy.
The woman with a darling pet dog
must resign herself to having few
friends.
81 will be blessed if I ever go out
walking again with that woman and
that horrid little dog of hers!" I heard
one irate damsel exclaim. HE did Moth
ing but get US into trouble from first to
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

ungrammaticaI and tiresome repetition
of 'he says, and I says, and she says"
there would be an appreciate gain in
nerve power for the woman. And if the
sex generally would check themselves
up short in this ceaseless word sputter-
ing and spluttering, using henceforth
in their statements only a few express
sive, well chosen words, spoken quietly
and with calm decision, the gain to
them mentally, morally and physically
would be incaIculable. The most ex-
haustive labor of the feminine sex to-
day is their strenuosity in talk
TABITHA SOURGRAPES.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

on your face. It is only intended for
the neck and arms.
Hairdressing is going to be high this
season. and that calls for the much
MarcelIed back hair. which is done up
loosely and is held in place by a real or
imitation shell back comb. But, what
ever you do. don't use in the daytime a
jeweled or enameled comb. It is hope
lessly passe. Everything now is plain
in combs, and they are made to match
the hair as nearly as possible.
And while I am on this subject 7 want
to remark that many women with blond
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

head center of costume designing, Par
is, twice a year and brought back mod
el gowns to copy in modified form for
her own customers. But her open,
quick seeing eye took in everything in
her line of work, and her intensely ac-
tive mind brought back ideas far moro
valuable than even the splendid gowns
she imported. She began to compare
American dressmakers with those of
Paris. Here was plenty of native tai
ent. but crude and unframed. almost
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04
ma sILvER BRIDGE.

One Of the customs observed at a Boz
hemian marriage feast is that Of max
ing the bride cross a silver bridge. Tbs
brides father-in-Iaw lifts her on to the
table, where she walks on two rows Of
silver coins. at the end of which her
husband stands and receives her into
his arms. The silver bridge typifies the
wealth with which her bridegroom
hopes to smooth her path in life,
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

Of Calcutta, In the neighborhood OF
Calootolah, at the counting house Of
SiraJoodeen & Ilahdad, merchants. be
offered to and read by the happy light
Of my eyes, of virtuous manners and
beloved of the heart=Meean Shaikh
Inayut Ally, may his life be long. Writ
ten on the 10th Of the blessed Rumzans
Saturday, in the year 1856 Of the Hegira
of our Prophet, and dispatched at Bears
iugf'
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

last, and when he could not think Of
anything better to create a distraction
he would wind himself UP in his own
chain. I had to stay outside and hold
him when she went into one shop, and
a big dog came sailing up, and 1 thought
it was the end of little F'idO. I grabbed
him up in my arms naturally, and then
I don't know what happened except that
a couple of men pulled the big brute off.
When reached home spent an hour
trying to get F'ido's white hairs out of
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04
THE PERsIAN o. Ii.

The addresses in Persian upon letters
which go through the postofhce at Cal
cutta are often quaint and puzzIing. An
Indian paper recently translated one as
follows; IF the Almighty pleases-Ilet
this envelope having arrived at the city
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

Y AM afraid we are to have rather
an expensive winter season. In
the first place, only the finest ma
n terials viii be used for costumes,
the siIkiest Of broadcloths and the soft
est of velvets. one does not see any of
those serviceable rough goods which
formerly were our delight for everyday
wear. No; everything must be fine and
silky in texture.
Then a great deal Of lace viii be used
heavy lace, too with motifs that
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

side completed
the jaunty trim
ming. The ma
terials of this
truly chic hat
cost SO. Now
figure for your
self what she
would have been
charged for such
a creation in a
shop.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

ties of home millinery. The materials
themselves are inexpensive. Every shop
window offers models, SO there are lack
ing only the little technical skill and the
good taste almost every woman has.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

er to make, because there is little or no
attempt at a close fit. The skirts are
shirred around the hips. and the waists
are merely little loose jacket effects over
lace blouses. The undersleeves are
made of many frills. All the sleeves,
by the way, are short. You simply
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04
alse Economy.

aise Economy
I have come
to the cOnclu-
sion that there
is such a thing
as being too
saving. Some
women think It
a sin to wear
decent clothes
every day-just
the time when
everybody sees
them, by the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

hair use amber combs. which absolutely
kill the CLINT in the hair and make it
look faded and bleached. 1t is always
q mistake to get your combs of a more
brilliant hue than your hair.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04
Velvet Dresses.

Velvet Dresses.
A great many
velvet dresses
will be worn
this winter, and
nothing is pref
tier. They will
be comparative
ly easy for the
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

my best broad
cloth coat. No,
indeed; no more
of that darling
little dog for
mel"
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04

The elsse fitting pointed bodice has q
bolero outlined with bands of embroid-
cry. The short sleeves finish with frills
of gray chiffon. The chemisette and
choker are also of the gray chiffon.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-04
AFTERNOON COSTUME
OF PALE GRAY WOLFE.

The afternoon costume pictured is OF
pale gray wolfe. The plated skirt is
trimmed with two rows OF Greek KEY
design carried out in silk embroidery.
The Coconino sun., 1905-09-30
To Building Contractors.

Sealed proposals will be re- ceived at the office of K. Kidd, Sec'y of the building committee of the first NJ. E. church, Flag staff, Ariz., up to o'clock p. m. Monday, Oct. oth, for furnishing material and building/one church in Flagstaff, Arizona ,/on the north west corner of Aspen Ave, and Sitgreaves St, in atcordance with plans and specifications prepared by Messrs. Marshi& Russell, arch itects, which plans and specific l. tions may be sSen on and after Monday, September 25th, at the Citizens bank, Flagstaff, Ariz. Each proposal must be accom- panied by ai certified check for $500. The right is reserved to reject any or all proposals.
 w. E. BLAIR,
 E. s. GosNEy,
 R. ]. KIDD,
 MRS. A. M. CAMERON,
 s. T. ELLIOTT,
 D. w. WALLACE, Building Committee First M. E. Church, Flagstaff, A. T.
 The Ladies Aid society of the M. E. church will give an enter tainment some time next month.