Albuquerque evening citizen. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1905-1907, 1905-11-25
.NEW YORK FASHION LETTER

New York, Nov. %. - This is to be
a season Of velvet and lace. The an.
nouncement makes the dressmaker
sigh over visions of counters flooded
with every manner of cheap Imita-
tion, over velvet dresses trimmed In
cheap lace and cheaper fur, dragged
through shops and trains until the
v~ell-dressed woman protests against
the tawdry fashion by discarding toe
fabric.
Velvet is the fabric above all others
for ceremonious occasions. Il needs
a good lining. DO not use poor silk
or satin. for they will not stand the
weight put upon them by the outside
material. Old silk that has done duty
in another gown is not wise economy
for the foundation OF a new velvet
gown.
A very beautiful model of petunia
colored velvet, made in the new two
pieced suit style, was on exhibition
last week in the parlors of one of our
best dressmakers. The skirt is or cir
cular cut. exceedingly full, although
tight fitting over the hips and touch
ing he floor with a sweeping fold.
The skirt is elongated up TO the bust.
a conventional princess frock. II VIII
be fitted in with darts or tiny tucks,
or close rows Of stirring. II is cut
slightly heart shaped back and front,
and above the bust is an elaborate ar
rangement of lace and chiffon. The
sleeves are puffed and ruffled to the
elbow. to match the yoke. There is
no belt, Of course, and usually no
trimming whatever on the skirt. Over
this goes a short bolero which reaches
only two or three inches below the
yoke. is tight fitting. with elaborate
shoulder trimming and loose elbow
sleeves.
The velvet costume in black is the
wise choice for the woman who can
have hut few frocks and wishes one
that will serve for many occasions.
This two-pieced model will be a wei
come change to the oma who is
tired Of the separate blouse suits,
even though the blouse matches her
suit in tone if not material.
Among other materials that are to
be popular this season are Crepe de
chine chiffon cloth, eolienne; but
broadcloth is the best follower of vel
vet. tor To get the best effects of the
short coat your material needs body
and the thin materials necessitates an
extra top wrap.
Speaking OF top coats. this edict
has gone forth from the best tailors.
THE extra tall woman shall wear her
coat TO the knees; the short m
needs to have it, touch the hem OF
her skirt. and a stout woman may
attempt an EtoS or bolero. The
woman who has little hip measure
$500 -E-..T 100 A - "a nRnF nnf
off them. for it accentunates her lack
of curve. The woman with large
hips should have her coat almost
straight under the arm. to flatten the
effect. A short woman needs just
enough flare to conform with the
fashion. while the thin woman a
stand the full di%rectoire sweep"
The ready made suits are built Oh
an entirely different model from the
ordered suits. The first is made by
what is called the "corset model"
the coat of which has many seams
covered with straps, while the skirt
is either a circular of four-piece
model. The ordered suit is quite diff
ferent. The skirt is a two-piece circu-
lar style. with seams down the front
and back. Ii clears the ground by
an inch and a half. Ihe coat has a
seam down the back from neck to
hip, and ends in a placket. BeloX
the waist the coat ripples. The fronts
are double breasted and fastened with
fancy buttons. The collar is a low
flat affair and the sleeves stand
straight up above the shoulders, be-
ing finished with a narrow cuff.
For dress occasions, waists of all
over lace are again very much the
thing. The rage for so-called baby
Irish crochet is at its height; and
waists in this lace, real and imitation,
are displayed prominently in all the
shops. The worst of Irish crochet is
that 1t is initiated so well. The ma
chine made lace does not wear very
well and it brushes out Of all beauty
after awhile. A form OF lace waist
that is seen a great deal is the bolero
made up over a chiffon underwaist.
A pretty model was in real irish
crochet in a short bolero trimmed
around with inch wide frills Of val
enciennes and ruffles of chiffon and
lace. The u~nderwaist was shirred in
up and down puffs.
Next to Irish, Cluny and oriental lace
are popular for waists. Point az