Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1905-01-28

New Yok, Jan. 2ss--Either tho
vogue OF the long coat called cut the
Snahinon for plain or fatty trimmed
nkiTte or the vogue Of this sort OF a
skirt II responsible for the long coat.
AZ any rate. both have held sway in
high places throughout the season.
Winter materials naturally lend them
aclves less readily than summer fab.
Fies 20 ruhled and bofrilled effects, but
this season has seen the last degree
81 snpplcness reached In textures that,
by tradition, call for body. Velvcts
and silks long ago lost their rustic and
crispnesa, 20 say nothing Of "stand
alone" qualities But now al tho
WOODS partake 0f the "chinon" in
apiration. This tendency has led 60
tho adoption Of wcaves for elaborate
nscs which were never before recOg-
nized by the elect. Take cashmere,
for example, the material Of childhood
and wrappers, even II has been turned
By dFessmakera Of the 6rst-class this
winter into smart house gowns and
even afternoon reception aud visiting
costumes. At its best, cashmere this
season has been seen ia the skirt &C.
companying the velvet coat. Girls
with n knaek for making much out
~ little have graspcd the possibility,
and In the durable fabric have pro-
dneed white and tinted skirts which
they have worn for evening dress,
with silk and lace waists Of the same
tone. Often such bodicca are made in
= simplihed French coat form, which
means that bodice and basque are cut
IN one, the latter being shaped TO suit
the figure % the wearor. There is n
host Of these little coats, and two OF
them are never quite alike.
As 10 the skirt trimmings, fat bands
of fur OF velvet are more popular than |
rufies or little puRs, although with |
ihc scope given 20 dressmakers, they, |
GOO. trim fashionable toilets A pretty |
gown ~ pale blue cashmere is made in
q surplice princess shape, its long lines
emphasized by fur bands.
Around the hem Of figured light
fnfieta seen AZ the opera this week
was n wide, loose, Hat roll of velvet I
Anishcd ~ the foot with = roll Of the 4
silk. wide band of ermine headed 4
A. eighth inch laco frill az the foot Of
white velvet princess robe black 1
ietted net made over white had as All
skirt hniah at the bottom tcn.inch
bard ~ black velvet eat In shallow
hattlemeuts AZ the top
N.ahaped inserts 10 widen CORES at
the foot ~ the skirt are another con.
friyAneo that appears naturally with
Starring skirts. There is an example of .
this ia the sumptuous dinner gown
of hFooaded maize eolored silk. The 4
skirt hts az the top like a princess, /
and Il plain Tor half its length The In
hack side seams and the side seams ,
next the front breadth are left open, :
the back ones half the depth of the I
skirt the front ones Tor ~ inches.
These slashea are laced with supple a
satin ribbon endiag in deep loops aud /,
endil over fun under skirt hounce 81 h
rich lace.
The long skirt's vogue Is responsi n
be for tho double skirts which often \
rannat be told, with their accompany. Z
ING jackets, from a rodiugote. The q
appps sections ~ such skirts ~ the ,
hips carefully and full into folds as :
they lengtheu over tho widening 4
lkifls under them. lt
With the vclveteen costumes that =
arc plentiful among well dressed wo I.
men, gloves 81 the same color, more a
J reason, The vclvcteens shed their !.
solof. More than one woman with
ahite gloves and such costume has
prem dismayed 60 hnd her gloves as
loming the complexion ~ her dress.
Az the theatre recently smart green "
lelycteen suu worn with white gloves =
,na - lent its hue 20 the gloves that Al
Z The Wearer had only laid her hands, /,