The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1905-04-21
THE BEAUTIES OF m0UssElUME MHN0M

linen will have the skirt trimmed entire
deux of novelty Valenciennes lace and
the yoke of the bodice to match. Then
over the gown Will be worn a paletot.
or possibly short loose jacket, made
entirely of this beautiful Irish lace.
The fronts of the coat are spread far
enough apart to disclose much of the
pretty gown underneath, and usually
the straight wide coat sleeves are
discontinued at the elbow, showing the
tight lace cuff of the bodice.
These handsome lace wraps will take
the place of silk ones for smart func-
tons. for driving and visiting. and it is
needless to point out that they con-
vert even plain gown into an expuis-
lite toilet Harmony must be observed
most carefully with these expensive
novelty wraps. 1t would be inartistic
TO don one with any but the daintiest
of summer gowns.
Besides whole coats made of this
handwrought lace. yokes and dress
trimmings of il are liked with any of
the sheer summer materials. In the
case of the above illustra ton there is a
smart. slightly rounded yoke of Irish
crochet. with a plain stock to match.
and nowhere else on the dress does this
trimming appear. The rest of the cos
tune is carried out i'm dainty mousse
line niDon- The material is filed to the
usual way. Instead of plaits or
gathers the mousseline is treated TO
a process known only TO the skilled
French dreSsmaker. whereby an accor-
dion effect is given with each press
ed fold. waved ever so slightly. Then
the plaits are pulled out so that there
is really less fullness than the ar
rangement appears to provide
The bodice is drawn into a wide
crushed silken girdle. The tops of the
sleeves are plated i'm the same unique
fashion. and the fuliness is gathered
below the elbow and finished with three
overlapping flounces of mousseline
ninon. which have fagoted hems At
the back OF the girdie concealing the
closing are three prim little rosettes of
silk and mousseline.
The skirt is in four sections of vary
ing depths. At the waist the mousse
line is shirred with ample fullness. and
as an odd feature of the gown upon
this section is set graduated fiounce
plated In the way previously describ-
ed There is a tiny outstanding frill
heading the fiounce. Then comes an
other section a bit wider than the one
Just above, but plated and headed in
the same way. This IS in turn COM
pleted by a still wider section and
then on the bottom the skirt appears
to be made with a much wider gradual
W II vi the WIFI a
mousseline frill about three inches
wide.
There seems to be a remarkable re-
vival of point d'esprit for gowns of the
DRESSER order. These are made up I'm
new and decidedly interesting fashion,
with the use of taffeta trimmings
sometimes in spiral designs and again
In rather straighter effects. One in
mind had the bouffant long skirt trim
med with a bias band OF rose taffeta
fulled ever so little and sewed straight
round the bottom about five inches up.
Between this band and one similar the
point desprit was gathered like a puff,
but the second band of taffeta separat-
ed in the center. and the two ends
were finished each with a rose ribbon
rosette. Above came a third taffeta
band, also gathered a trihe, the two
ends leaving several inches between the
finishing rosettes. A fourth taffeta
band increased the opening in the
front. and from the rosette two strips
of the silk were brought up to form a
cross over the upper part of the skirt
front, and the ends were confined I'M
der similar ribbon trimmings.
The bodice girdle was carried out in
rose taffeta. and the gathered lace was
brought over in surplice fashion. with
the edges of the fronts trimmed with
silk. The pulled sleeve had elbow frills
of lace and taffeta, with an effective ar
rangement of graduated roSettes ex-
tending up the inner arm seam.