davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-04

Of detachment Of German soldiers. There
were perhaps 10000 Of them, and among the
number few who were not inclined to be
souatty and bowlegged.
sIn America II IL different, although among
the immigrants one may Zee many bad
cases Of bowlegs in men, women and chill
dren. It L. not easy to overcome defects
Of early training. Sometimes young men
and women come here to take course Of
gymnasium training, expecting that one
Course to cure them Of weak spine or some
other aiment which has been brought ON
maybe by lack OF care when they were
Youngsters, but crooked legs are not Often
on the list OF their Ills
II have noticed one thing, that loose
lieaments, which sometimes mean Weas
ankles and again dropping OF the aron
of the foot, are more common among
women than men, but knockknees aho
Here Is a theater managers story, the
story Of q man who engages anywhere
from TOO to 1900 chorus girls for hlaw q
Erlanger every year and keeps his eyes
Wide open for knee lines:
~The girls we engage come from al
classes and represent many mathematics
although the majority are American born
When girl applies at this ONCE II
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-04

negligee. but little OF the better grade Of
imitation valenciennes will add more to the
beauty Of the negligee than many yards
OF coarser quality.
The Powered dimities, 50 exceptionally
good in design and coloring this season.
are exceedingly desirable for the simple
tub negligee and, like the embroidered
swisses, do not demand 30 much trimming
as do the plain materials. There are, too,
very pretty Powered lawns. and certain
lawns whose white grounds are barred OF
by woven stripes Of heavier white and over
whose latticelike surfaces are printed
huge sprawling flower designs in delicate
colors are chosen as the material for some
very artistic and summerlike boudoir
gowns, necessarily simple In line and
trimming.
The flowing gown, loose from shoulders
or from yoke, a glorified form Of the de-
spised mother hubbard, is seen more often
than any other model in the sheer wash
stuffs. and is both comfortable and easily
laundered: but for the women who like
something a little more trim are gowns
drawn in snugly at the waist with bands
of broad beading through which soft liberty
satin ribbon runs, tying In loose loops and
ends in 'front.'
Empire effects too. are numerous In tho
tub robes as we'll as In moro pretentious
robes Of silk and lace. and here again one
often sees the beading girdle though set
in, this time just below the bust and usually
curving up into point between the shout
ders In the back. Surplice, square and
round decolletages are all favored
with, perhaps. little emphasis upon the
square lines, and for wearers who do not
like to have their threats bare even upon
hot DAYS there are dainty little chemisettes
and Ruimpes OF lace to fill in the dfcol-
letage.
The flowing elbow sleeve or some form
OF the angel sleeve Is best for the tub neg
lioee. but full elbow puifs with close band
lust above the elbow and deep frill Of lace
are liked.
One Of the simplest lingerie boudoir
indescribably dainty and the sketch OF 1t
Riven here can afford no adequate idea OF 1t
since It's charm was In material rather than
line. The material was fancy white
swiss Of finest quality and ali over lacoiike
design.
Embroidered white dots were sprinkled
over this lacy surface The borders OF
the loose robe were all finished with nat
three inch bands Of openwork embroidery
insertion upon fine swiss. There was q
touch Of valenciennes at the throat, knots
Of narrow pink liberty satin ribbon orna-
mented yoke and fronts and loose under
robe Of delicate pink India silk, while not
essential, gave added charm.
In the same stock was summer negligee
OF white point d'esprit trimmed with many
6ne tucks and laos modallions and here.
too, there was an under robe Of pink wash
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-04
asmdress, good or bad, We have always

iaumdress, good or bad, We have always
with US.
The lingerie matinee and petticoat has
TO great extent supplanted the one piece
boudoir negligee In the affections OF the
summer woman. and bewildering supply
Of these negligees en- suite and Of the sepa-
rate matinees ia on view In shops OF the
better GLASS.
They range in price from modest sums
to appalling ones, and the height OF the
mode In this line is the matinee Of finest
lawn, nainsook or batiste, hand en- broidered
and trimmed lightly in valenciennes lace
and coquettish ribbon knots and ends.
A majority OF the models are short and
loose or slightly shaped by cleverly man.
ipulated tucls, but there are, too, matinees
held closely at the waist line by soft girdles
Of ribbon or by corded shirrings.
Loose little sacks with scalloped and but
tonholed edges, under which are set frills OF
narrow valenciennes, and With delicate
trailing garlands embroidered by hand
down tho fronts and on yoke and sleeves,
are costly tribes for all their misleading
cir Of dainty simplicity, but they are ex-
quisite, and host Of women seem to have
money enough to buy them. The popular
open work or eyelet embroidery is also much
In evidence, and often ono sees heavy
bold, blind embroidery combined with open
work or With delicate garlands.
The fine embroidery houncings and all
ovsrs are pressed into service for charm
ing uaatinees that are, Of course, much less
expensive than the hand embroidered
models, and here again the English open
work embroidery comes to the front.
The daintiest Of little sacks are fashioned
from deep founcing Of such embroidery
on hne batiste or lawn, with medallions or
insertion bands to match, and little
vaienciennes to soften the effect, and, fire.
quently these open work embroidery
matinees are made over Innings Of wash
silk in delicate color.
Tho loose lining Is caught to the outside
only at the neck and armholes, so that 1t
may be readily removed before Tubing,
and especially in pink or creamy yellow
the under color gives a delightful tone to
the matinee without detracting from It's
airy freshness and coolness
Little matin4es, without hand embroidery
or by the yard embroidery, but trimmed
moro or less lavishly In fine tucking and
lace. are offered in many attractive FORMS
and there are most lovable matinees very
sparinely trimmed and owing their effective
ness chiefly to their lines and to the fine
ness and charm Of their materials.
The fine embroidered swisses are par
tioularly desirable for sacks OF this type
and never before have there been such va
rety and beauty in these materials. Tiny
sprays, sprigs, single flowers, losenges,
dots, circles and innumerable other small
designs have been woven into the nne
swissss and are SO decorative that very
little soit lace In combination with such
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-04

wonderfully.
And If wherever possible roof garden
should be arranged with flowers, porch
furniture, screens &C., it would prove a
boon to those who must remain at home
during the summer. Women don't think
up to $1,000 on gown. but they seem to
begrudge few dollars spent in some such
way as this when the expenditure would
repay them a hundred fold. The public
wouldn't get the benefit OF 1t. to be sure,
but it might mean the salvation OF the in
dividual or the happiness Of home
A New York girl on q visit to Boston
writes of her difficulties In getting board
ing place among the blue stockings of the
Hub because OF their morbid desire that
their boardeH shall all have pedigrees.
MRS. - is a dccayed gentlewoman,
she writes, "and she started In at once to
get my pedigree. was told that she was a
Bowker and that her sister married Gram
ford and died. felt l was expected to be
impressed, but found my emotions letharglc.
Ihave trotted out several Of my ancestors,
and have one Lieutenant Governor of my
ancestry in reserve, and il worse comes to
worst l shall have to inform her that great
Aunt Maria Harris's son married q daugh-
ter OF Commodore Vanderbilt. Should
there be any trouble, then l shall simply
DC ODllgeu 10 PICK up my OuOb ana 70 nOilc,
for I've no more celebrities to trot out.
One OF the most practical things in the
shops for babies this summer is little
hammock swung from light wood frame
and arranged with a mosquito netting over
1t, which protects the baby from the annoy
apce OF flies and mosquitoes. The whole
affair can't weigh more than FIVE pounds
at the most and takes up about Ave feet
Of space in length and considerably less
than that in width, and the best OF 1t all is
that the entire outfit costs only s..
Another detail-this for the women OF
the family-to make ones living room
cooler ard more comfortable Is the ore-
tonne FELLOWSHIP that can be bought ready
made to fit any pillow. It is made in the
shape Of . laundry bag with drawstring.
Without the string drawn up the slip Is
oblong, but IL desired, for q square divan
J pillow the top IL shirred up, making the
cover fit snug!y and leaving the frill at one
end as finish.
BY the use Of these ready made pillow
slips the regular covering can be preserved
intact, the cretonne only being used during
the hot weather.
Children in the vicinity Of the site OF the
now Pennsylvania station. are having
the time Of their lives playing in the sand
piles, which have been heaped UP along
Seventh avenue. Kindergartens with their
eand boxes aren't In Il with the hundreds
OF loads Of sand which have been dumped
along the oar trackA to be used in building
the Big railroad structure.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-04
THE PARTISAN pE1T!C0AT
Ana the Part 1t Plays in the Ceremony .
Crossing tho street.

Ana the Part 1t Plays in the Ceremony Of
Crossing tho Stfeet.
The New York woman has been called
the best groomed in the world, but in the
matter Of petticoats she let's the Partisan
surpass her.
Tho American woman's petticoat may be
a handsome affair Of rich silk or filmy lace
or embroidery, but 1t ia merely incidental
to her gown. Usually 1t is Of harmonious
tone rather than q contrast to her gown,
and for q street costume she generally pre-
fers q subdued shade.
Not 30 her French sister, and few things
In Paris are more interesting than the
pettiooats. There the gown Ia incidental
to the skirt.
Walking along Partisan boulevard you
see ahead Of you trim, round figure. not
always slender, but always dressed with
an air Of finality. often in plain black, with
merely a neat white linen DOLLAR and per-
chance a sailor hat. Presently smSdemoi-
selle or madame is about to cross the street,
and then there is burst Of splendor, ltke
the sudden blossoming OF rose. \
Comes into view mass Of shimmsring$
tropical, gorgeous silken frills, that II.
illuminate the landscape. They are golden,
thew are oerise, they are turquoise, mauve,
emerald. scarlet or rose, but they are i'm
maculate, dainty, fetching, bewitching, and
be you man or woman you are grateful to
mademoiselle or madame for making Q
picture Of herself.
The French woman always makes an
event Of crossing the street, anyway It
is never done In the careless. matter OF
course fashion of the American woman.
On the curb the Partisan pauses i'm:
before taking fight. Her very attitude Is
call to attention, though she looks neither
to right nor to left. but il there Is man
With in sight she knows 1t and he knows that
she knows 1t.
With one hand, in graceful sweep, she
lifts her gown only, no less than foot.
This Is the apotheoeis of the petticoat.
A full revelation bursts on the gaze Ct the
She advances one foot with the elaborate
DOSE Of a minuet, and there is NO haste.
She is crossing the street, and all the gods
may need time to observe the spectacle
I, 1t Is for this they are supposed 70 exist.
were the only woman in the world and
with certainty Of touch that makes what
ever costume she may be wearing at tho
moment the only perfect thing here below.
She Is daring because she knows exactly
how.
To be sure, the cleanliness Of Paris streets
lends itself 10 this gorgeousness o. petu.
coats, but who shall say that II the New
York woman would be equally daring and
tired humanity the Street Cleaning Depart
ment might not find its work as we'll worth
doing thoroughly as that Of the gardener
who causes many flowers to blossom?
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-04

she is not positively ugly in appearance or
notioeably deformed, she is sent into
the next room to have her voice tried.
If she passes that ordeal successfully
the sta &c business and the score Of what
she is to sing, and not till then does the
dress parade, as we call it, take place. Up
to that time / have given no particular
thought to the girls form.
-On the occasion Of dress parade the
girls put on tights and walk slowly across
the stage single file for my inspection, l
sitting in an orchestra seat. In many
cases it is the first time a girl has worn
tights. and. naturally, she y more or less
awkwardness of figure are two different
propositions, though. The one can be cured.
the other never can; apd it is my business
to inguish between the two and weed
out the candidates with unshapely knee
lines;
thin women among the women at this dress
parade, and yet, stran &c to say, if that
physical culture teacher Is correct / am
never obliged to turn down more than 3
per cent. Of the lot. For instance, there
we're more than ESQ girls in II, the The 'HumPty
! turned away just seven after the trial
dress parade. and in every instance it was
not a case Of crooked legs.
"One or two girls, remember. were en-
tirely too stout. Another had lines which
sSs sssTsnee of RsgD Inclined to
think that the M Nv York woman haSreason
to be proud OF or knee lines when com
pared with thosk Of men, 1t would be
good idea, Ithink. to ask Mrs. .Fenner, who
attends to ooetuming the girls. what she
thinks about their knee lines. She knows
more about them than do.
Mrs Fenner almost fell backward when
confronted with the statement that there
are more bowlegged and knockkneed
women than men.
1T Ia exactly the other way" she ex-
claimed. AIN the course OF my work !
have come in contact with thousands OF
women. and the proportion who have not
hardly worth mentioning.
Il don't mean that they all have shapely
legs. Far from it. Many must wear SYM
metricals, which Ia layer Of padding;
others must pad in spots, but the main
line Of the leg Ia straight and graceful.
the principals, who needed no padding
at all, whereas inever knew male principal
who wore Tights but was. obliged to pad
lot. Moet OF them, in fact, would have
queer looking legs II they did not pad.
1t seems to me that a good way to find
out which has the better knee lines-man
or woman-is to 10 to populo,s seashore
or Asbury Park In midsummer and watch
the crowd az it comes out of the surf. At
any OF thes, places the bathers represent
almost all classes and almost everything
in the way Of a leg.
Every now and then when at Atlantic
knee lines were by no means perfection,
but such women were scarce. On the other
hand. the beach seemed to he overrun with
knockkneed, bowlegged men,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-04

my experience goes Che woman moQel WITH
good knee lines Is common enough.
Speaking in general way from obser-
walton and not at all to define an average,
which am sure am not qualified to do,
I would say there are more bowlegged
men than women, more knockkneed women
than men.
"You see," and here the artist exhibited
a small bronze female figure, "the feminine
hip is as q rule larger than the masculine
therefore the corresponding larger swell
Of the leg below the hip, tapering some
what suddenly from that point, ia apt to
give her knees the appearance OF going
closer together than the male knees do.
Examine any OF the model statues OF female
beauty and It will be noticed that the pose
brings the models knees close together,
or with ono knee perhaps overlapping the
other.
Needless to say, this Is not considered
defect, and the models for those statues
would hardly have been called knock
kneed."
Edgar Ward, who has taught life classes
at the National Academy Of Design for the
last twenty years and is teaching two
classes there at the present time, and who
probably has studied a. many models and
would-be models in the course Of h is work
as any artist in New York, said when con-
fronted with the proposition that the av-
erage woman Is not so straight OF leg as
the average man:
Il don't believe It. In art circles. OF
course, it Is almost impossible to make a
comparison worth anything, for the reason
that models are always we'll formed.
AS between men and women models,
in my experience there is little choice whom
it comes to a question Of knee lines. One
is as perfect as the other.
Outside Of the studios, though. would
say at a venture there are many more men
than women with crooked legs, but can't
prove it,
At a physical culture institute, where
naturally some verification for the state
ments put forth at the convention might
be looked for, the observations OF Henry
Savage left the question almost as far
from being settled as the artists had.
"Anatomically, woman Is constructed
80 that her knees naturally 60 closer to-
gether than q mans, and that Ia probably
what the New Haven teacher had reference
to in his address, explained Mr.. Savage.
Would she be called knockkneed, then
he was asked.
Not at all. KnocRknes Is almost q
mahormation, as when the knees have a
tendency to rub.
I'm gymnasium work have noticed very
few women with deformed knee lines. and
speaking generally ! think women have
Just as straight legs as men. In my travels,
however, have SEEN far more bowlegged
men than women.
sIn Germany and Holland. for instance.
where, among the palmer people, small
which they drink from q nursing bottle a.
a substitute for milk, bowlegged children,
especially bowlsgged boys. are uncom-
moply pieut!ful, and the defect b due to the
lack Of lime aalts In their food.
u tool particular notice on one occasion
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-04

The usual number OF accordion plated
China or India silk robes and matinees,
in white or color, trimmed profusely in
lace, is to be seen and some OF the robes
whose lace Is comparatively fine are very
attractive. A majority OF these robes
hang straight from yoke, but afew dainty
new models have slightly bloused accordion
plated bodies drawn into a waist band,
to which the skirt is also attached A
ribbon girdle covers the band and ties
loosely in front, and the lines Of the robe
are very good.
The challies OF the season are unusually
lovely, az are all figured materials this
year, and for the serviceable and mex
pensive summer negligee, triAe warmer
than cotton stuff, 1t Is hard to find any
thing better than challie. Albatross, too,
is used for pretty negligees not too heavy
for warm weather.
Grape, sheer silks, heavy chiffon, &C.,
are all we'll represented among summer
matinees and robes, but as rule they
belong to the more elaborate class Of negli-
gees intricately made and trimmed. Ger
tain simple little robes Of Grape trimmed in
batiste embroidery, which showed on a
cream ground embroidery in the tint OF
the Grape, are on view in one shop noted
for it's negligee garments, and here Is q
sketch Of one Of the gowns in delicate
tea leaf green with exquisite by-the-yard
batiste founcing embroidered in exactly
the same soft green.
In the same shop is an odd, but grace
full robe In very lightweight supple pink
cloth draped In Greek fashion across the
front and falling in the back, as Is shown
In one Of the cuts.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-04
WOMAN'S KNEE LINRALLRIGH
EXPERTS SPEAK IN DEFENSE or
NEW YORk'S DAUGHTERS.

In New Haven BOwlegs and kncckknees
May he Common, but Not Here Say
Artists, Physical Culture Teachers And
stage Managers-DiRerent With Men.
The average woman has unattractive
knee lines, was the statement made at the
recent convention Of physical instructors
In New York. A teacher from New Haven
drew q comparison between the knee lines
Of man and OF woman unhattering to the
latter and limited that 1t was wise pro-
vision that woman should wear skirts and
thereby cover up lines not in accord with
the rules Of beauty.
especially to New Haven women. 1t seems
certain that the lecturer would find it hard
to make out case Of crooked legs against
the average New York woman. Indeed, 1t
would appear that II there is one point more
than another concerning the New York
woman's anatomy which IL deserving Of
special commentator 1t 10 her knee lines.
Painters, sculptors, physical instructors
and stage managers seem to agree on that.
"A good leg Is perhaps the easiest Of all
attributes to secure in q model said Her.
bert Adams, the sculptor. when seen at
his studio in West Eleventh street. But
! have never given any consideration to the
relative beauty Of mans and woman's
leg, therefore cannot speak authori
tatively on the subject.
Naturally the men .and women that
artists come In contact with In their study Of
the nude are we'll formed. II they were
crooked they would not present themselves
In q studio.
1T is not always easy to get perfectly
proportioned model or q model who per-
sonifes elegance and grace, but 80 far as
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-04
PRLLLIBST OF NEGLIGEES.
WONANS TEMPTING LOUNGING
ROBES FOR SUMNER.

Como All Lace and neutrality-suspicious.
Capable Of Being Tubbed-B0udOir
Gowns. Loose Attlo Sacks and Matt.
peos-Comfort in Hot weather Dress.
Tho weather has not. 90 far, been OF
sort to Psuse enthusiasm concerning hot
weatha~ Aegligees, yet the display OF these
garments In tho shops Is tempting enough
to promote feminine extravaganza even
during shivery days, and pretty materials
for summer lomging robes, matin ees, tea
gowns, &o., are legion.
The tea gowns, properly 80 called, de-
serve a story all their own, and among
their group one dnds the most delightful
confections In lace, chiffon, silk mousseline
and sheer shimmering silks, as we'll as
lin geris gowns that are triumphs OF needle
work and flneness; but the negligee Of the
simpler type Ia worthy of consideration,
in It's own way, and ntnety-nine women
are Interested In 1t where one considers the
elaborate tea gown essential to her outfit.
Some Of the boudoir gowns are far from
inexpensive, but they all retain a certain
simplicity OF outline and general effect,
and 1t is quite possible to find dainty
lo,m ging robe, adapted to hot days and
with nothing about it to forbid Its being
put into the tub when rumpled and soiled.
After all, it u in these washable negligees
that one finds solid comfort during the mid
summer months, and however alluring the
accordion plated silks and crepes and
lowered chiFons may be, woman would
better pass them by unless she can afford
pretty and serviceable negligees In addition
to these highly decorative robes and sacks.
Dry cleansing has reached such per-
lection that any gowns may be quickly
and cleverly cleaned, but one cannot send
boudoir gowns to the cleanser's often
enough to keep them fresh and. moreover,
during summer outings. a cleansing estab-
nshment Is seldom close at hand, while the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-04

silk. The fashion In which the medallions
we're set In bands down the fronts. sides and
back OF the robe was worthy Of notice and
the deep hounce with It's Vandyke points
at top fled in with many lines of shirring
is also good detail.
Robes Of finest lawn, null or batiste In
white inset with valenciennes lace and
made up over lowered lawn are In some
cases exceedingly pretty, and the same
idea IL carried out In more elaborate robes
OF sheer white silk made over lowered
silk that shows through In soft blurred
coloring and design.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-04
THE MODERN WOMAN.

III American women would only appre-
ciate the value OF window box decoration
as the English do, remarked q young woman
florist, "the summer would be productive
Of as much happiness as 1t Is Of mhappiness
to the masculine members Of the family
now.
4 don't mean merely porch or window
ledge boxes, but wherever there is a
projection Of any kind, or fat roof which
can be utilized, boxes Of flowers, plants and
green things would enhance the effect