Evening star., 1905-11-05
X n

shops, for while simple gowns
may be worn when one is shopping only,
yet day In town at this season necessi-
tates a luncheon at some one of the res
taurants where one meets ones friends
or ones enemies-and frocks suitably smart
are a necessity.
AS yet the short skirt leads, but with
the Partisan modistes pushing the skirt
that touches or more than touches for
street wear there are many who will soon
adopt the latter and less sensible mode.
OF course, the long skirt is more universally
becoming than the short-there Is no aues-
tion at to that-but its unsuitability for
street wear, and the discomfort attending
II are sufficient reasons for its not being
adopted here. where walking is fashionable
Last WINTER some or the nandSomest and
most costly reception gowns were cut to
clear the floor by an inch or more but this
coming season they will more than to1cb
street costumes and those for Informal
cdiIihe' ana dancing gowns % young girls
alohe VIII be OF the length demanded by
common sense and cleanliness for walking
purposes.
Almost every material In the cloth line
ana velvets Is used for the various street
ana GAZING costumes. and one of the dis
tinguishng features in the various trim
mings, whether of braids or emhroideries
is touch of gold silver. or both On
elegant gowns there are touches ONLY of
gold, and the gold Is of good quality. The
cheaper trimmings showing gold will not
show it long, for it is the sort that tar
nlSheS very soon.
OF course where the materials Of tba
gown are handsome and it is we'll cut and
fashionable the touch of gold is not only
permissible but often adds greatly to the
erect. On cheap costumes. however with
trimmings of inferior grade nothing Is
more conducive to a vulgar effect than gold
In any form; it emphasizes the cheapness
OF its setting, and being of cheap grade
y.rfth har
trimmings. detract Father than add to their
beauty.
The use of gold and silver galloons on
hats Is timely in connection with cos
tunes showing metallic CLEANS here and
there. but the same remark anent cheap
ness applies even more strongly to hats
and gowns.
Many of the new hats show tiny fat
bows of gold or silver ribbon with flowers
in shadow effects in coors. Great care
should be exercised by even first-class mil
liners in using these. and In any event
they will not be used long. for the guam
titles OF cheap trimmings on the market
embodying these metallic threads will result
In the ten-doIlar as wei the fifty-dol-
lar chapeaus being trimmed with them.
These galloons show not only the change
able shadow effects, but brocaded designs
in rich colors, many in deep shades, and
the galloons are not only used for mil
Hnery only, but also on gowns.
These handsome trimmings are used on
the coats only when trimming two-pece
costumes, for as yet skirts almost en-
tirely plain at the most braid and strap
pings are used on them, but as a rule even
with very handsome costumes the plait-
ings in the skirts are their only decora-
ton, IL decoration they may be called.
Returning to the subject of gold and sill
yer. tissues and cloths in these metals are
shown, and largely used for the deep
girdles used with handsome velvet and
other costumes when bolero effects are
sought. Lace. chiffon and other filmy ma
terials are often draped over these metal
girdles. that the latter merely geam
through
Fringes. cords. tassels anu other orna-
ments in gold, silver and steel are shown
in the smart shops. and are also being used
on handsome evening wraps.
Some of the metallic tissues show tiny
spangles in gold or silver; these are sewed
Another novelty-and most expensive
all-is jetted flowers applied to hold chif-
fon and other filmy draperies in place
bodces or the fronts of skirts, and also
on certain hats for ceremonious occasions.
Braids for trimming gowns were never
handsomer than now, nor the prices higher.
for s. a yard for really handsome braids,
handwrought, with applique Teliefs and lace
or metallic motifs set to foundations
formed Of narrow braids. is a not uncom-
mon price. Beautiful heavy white silk
braids are themselves braided or embroi-
dered with gold or silver soutache. and
gold lace Is combined with the braids.
There is little prospect of the Indian
beadwork-or rather the imitation of this
work done in beads-becoming fashionable
1t is shown, however, In both narrow and