davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
Transparent Yokes and Collars.

transparent collar and some form of
transparent yoke are the rule. but the
sheer blouse is worn over an under
blouse of thin India or China silk, and
the peekaboo effect so dear to the comic
papers is avoided. The sleeves OF these
blouses are ordinarily of the modified
bishop type, fairly full at top, and with
a wrist band deeper than in other sea-
sons.
Certain exquisite little French Dlouses
in finest batiste or lawn are very simply
made, with tiny hand tucks as the only
trimming save for lace edging at throat
and wrists. and, embroidered just in the
middle front at the bust line, bunch
of fine flowers and foliage. Similar In
idea are the dainty little hand-tucked
blouses of white crepe, with transparent
lace collar and cuffs, and a bunch OF
yiolets in their natural colors embroi-
dered on the front, where 1t shows ef-
fectively when the coat falls open.
Heavy lace or batiste or swiss en-
broidery motifs are used in combina-
ton with Valenciennes upon many
of the fine lingerie blouses; but such ef
fects are more common upon the ornate
domestic models in the large shops, and
are not SO chic as those already de-
scribed.
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
SPRING NECK WEAR

The collar-in fact, neckwear of all
kinds-is a formidable consideration to
begin with. There is quite a fad for
the plain linen collar again. The smart
est is a high turnover shape, fastened
with jeweled links and made with but
tonholes large enough to slip through
them tulle or ribbon which is tied in a
bow just above the links
Another plain high linen collar, ac-
cording to Harper's Bazaar, has these
narrow straps in front fastened to the
collar with tiny pearl buttons, and
through these straps is pulled a sill (
neektie, which is left without being tied,
but which has all the effect of a wide
bowknot, as in front the bands make IL
look narrow, and then the ends flare
out wide
Lace stock collars with ends to match.
or with lace bows, are worn on all kinds
of waists, whether they match the skirts
or are quite separate
The yoke and collar in one, chem
isette. in fact, of lace or lingerie and
lace, or embroidery, Is very attractive
and Is intended to wear with all sorts
of summer gowns. Again the fashion
prevails Of the transparent collar and
yoke
Then there are cuffs to match. for
those who do not care for elbow sleeves
and most charming and becoming CT
feet is given to the plainest of waists
by this dainty finish
The Washington times., 1905-04-02

The French lingerie blouse has taken
precedence OF all others in the last year
and has been worn under heavy coats
even during the winter; but now, with
the spring in the offing, it blossoms out
more attractively than ever.
UnIuckily this blouse at its best is an
expensive luxury in this country. for IT
should be handmade, and hand work
comes high here.
The demand for blouses Of this char
acter has, however, brought out certain
machine made lingerie blouses, modelled
upon the same simple lines as the hand
made ones, and occasionally with
small amount of hand work to give them
cachet And these blouses, fine in quail
ity. carefully and daintily made. are
tremendous improvement on the coarse
or fuzzy Tachine-made lingerie blouses
OF which we have such a delLge Ba-
tiste or finest lawn is used, the very
beautiful qualities of imitation Valen-
ciennes are chosen for lace, and If there
is embroidery 1t is of the fine French
kind, suggestive of baby garments
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
By MARIAN MARTINEAU.


T He prettiest figure in the world
belongs to Miss Florence Lin
l gard.
Miss Lingard is a daughter of
the Empire State. And, if she had been
born a few years sooner, she might not
have been considered as ideal in build
as she is today, for art has changed.
The old-fashioned girl was shorter;
she was thinner; she was less robust in
weight; her hips were narrow and she
had a neck like pipe stem. That was
the ideal girl in the days when Sir
Joshua Reynolds painted girls, and she
was the ideal great deal later. Even
ten years ago, Is a wrath in figure,
delicate. almost ethereal, and wholly
passive in manner. The Beardsley girls
were almost spookish in figure.
But the girl of today is full and ro-
bust. You would almost call her heavy.
She weighs enough and she measures a
great deal. She Is a great, big girl. She
pIease-but she is certainly not a little
girl If one judges her by feet and inches,
by pounds and ounces.
There Is a new measurement for this
big girl; and she must be built in pro-
portion 1t will not do to have her a
big girl only. She must be very well
shaped big girl There are new proper
tions for her. and she must conform
to them or she will be grotesque.
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
One StGnOgrdpher'S Rather
Frank Opinion of Her Boss

She signed the letters, addressed them
TO the emigmatic box number mentioned
in the advertisement, and went to sleep
feeling that she would now vindicate
herself.
That was Saturday night. On Monday
morning she presented herself at the
office as usual, feeling that she was
hiding a secret in her bosom and con-
graduating herself on the surprise that
she had in store for the boss Pretty
soon he arrived, gave her casual nod.
and began opening his mail and arranS-
ing the letters carefully into separate
piles. Suddenly he sat up perfectly
straight. holding a sheet of note paper
before him. He looked at the paper an
though he could not believe his eyes.
Then ne broke into loud, rude, bolster
Gus laugh
Miss Smith, he called. will YOU
take dictation, please? Yes, over here.
Now take this: Miss Smith, Stem
ographer, No. p Blank street, Har-
lem Yes, that's right he assured
her as she glanced up at him in sur
prise.
''Bu-but you must be mistaken.
that's my
Take dictation. please. Now this:
We, too. have been thinking Of
making change, because our present
stenographer, while of good appear
ance, actually pretty. in fact, is so con-
scious of her own Importance that she
is inattentive to business When she
came TO US she was perfectly green.
She has been with us two months and,
at our expense, has learned her busi-
ness, gained some speed on the type
writer and acquired what facility In
her work she possesses Now. at the
end Of this time, she wants US to raise
her salary and is constantly trying to
impress upon us our good fortune in
having her here.
We regret that we, too, work in our
shirt sleeves and use the cuSpidor fre-
quently. but will say that We shall try
10 control the latter habit II you decide
to accept the position here and that we
shall certainly never fail TO smile when
we lock at you. Very sincerely yours
That will do, l think.
And now that they understand each
other perfectly, they are getting along
Eamously-
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
The Long Shoulder Effect.

The long shoulder effect. too, has had
its day, although some of the new mod
els have inset lace and embroidery yoke
designs which, of necessity, come well
down upon the shoulder point, and as
batiste and it's kindred materials will
not stand out stiffiy, and as shoulder
supports such as are put into sleeves of
heavier stuffs are out of question In the
sheer blouse. there is always more or
less of Il dropping effect to the shoulder
Of the French lingerie blouse
Little details such as the arrangement
of a cravat OF girdle will often give dis
tinction and originality to an otherwise
unimportant blouse, and the soft cravat
encircling the throat under a rundown
collar tied in front and drawn down nm
der buttoned tabs crossing the front. or
through big embroidered eyelets or rings
or under little straps buttoning at both
ends across a narrow, plain vest are
particularly attractive
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
Measure Your Finger Tips.

Ii you are right in all your proportions
your finger tips will tell you so. Meas
ure the length from tip 20 tip of your
fingers. Write down the figures II you
are five feet eight inches high you will
measure five feet eight inches from tin
to tip.
1t is a strange thing that you should
be as broad as you are long Yet this is
the case. You must measure from finger
tip to finger tip just as much as your
height The woman who is five feet tall
must be able to measure just five feet
with her finger tips. 1t is a test that is
considered an excellent one for a wo-
man.
The girl who has the best figure in the
world will tell you tllat she does not get
her figure without working for it. She
will tell you that she exercises, that she
walks, that she even diets And she will
assure You that she has plenty of what
is called physical culture
Each day she exercises with an exer-
ciser. To make one of these contriv-
ances is very easy. Drive into the wall
a large screw eye or hang up big
hook Now take a skipping rope and
throw it over the hook Take hold OF
the ends and see-saw. You will find
yourself in possession of one OF the very
best exercisers in the world.
To exercise as you should exercise take
the handles in the hands and pend side
ways as far as you can Be sure that
the rope iS well fastened to the wall,
and then throw ali your weight upon it.
Bend way backward with the handles in
your hands and sway sideways, each
way Bend forward and do the seesaw
motion with both hands. 1t is splendid
for you.
1t is best to have the rope rather short,
SO that the arms nave plenty of work
to do But the girl Who is too fat should
have two sets of shese exercisers, one
with a short rope and one with a long
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
Little KINKS, But Important

Brush pie crust with cream to insure
rich brown color.
The milk in beef loaf or farci can be
replaced by tomato sauce or catsup, for
Il change.
Whip cream in pitcher. 1t Whips
more quickly than in an open bowl. with
less spatter
An artists palette knife or druggists s
spatula is a vast Improvement on the
vegetable or case knife in the kitchen.
for innumerable purposes.
A poor masticating apparatus should
not deprive one of eating nuts and
cheese, as both can be ground very fine
and fabricated with cream
Leftover oysters OF any kind can be
used to good advantage as a basis for
an oyster sauce, to be used with eggs.
fish, or poultry, or as a fayoring in a
stuft1ng for any of these. Oyster straws
too, are as delicious as cheese straws
and are made in the same way as the
latter.
Less scum rises on soup after the re-
ouisite amount of salt has been added
therefore arrange the skimming accord
ingly
A cup of cream added to a pint OF
beans the last hour while baking greatly
improves them.
Bread is not indispensable to make a
stuffing Potatoes, rice. fruits, and
chestnuts answer the purpose as WELL
Pumpkin and squash are better for
steaming than boiling.
A stoonful of water added before beat
ing an egg increases the amount of
froth; Il pinch Of salt hastens its COM
ing.
A small piece of Goldfish added to es-
calloped satisfy greatly improves the
Housekeeping.
The Washington times., 1905-04-02

She had been in the Office two months
and was beginning to feel aggrieved.
She had learned to take the normal
number of words per minute; had got
ten into the habit of arriving on time in
the morning, and had quite recovered
from any doubts she may have had Of
her own Importance at the start. She
even did her hair in a dip pompadour
and had bought a crocheted sweater;
and she thought she ought TO have her
salary raised She waited while Tor
this TO occur. and then she went TO the
boss with a calm, patient smile ana sus-
gested the thing to him. But he merely
we.lt on writing letters and VouchsaIeo
her only q mild g-unt.
She waited 4 week longer, during
whicn the dip in her pompadour grew
more pronounced and she acquired d
patr OF gold-rimmed glasses Iheh one
evening she bought newspaper, Went
over the advertisements ana sat GOWN
determinedly TO answer TWO Oh sheth-
Roth advertisers stated that they WANT
ed a stenographer of some experience,
intelligence, and capability, ana named
i, box number. This is what she wrote
to each of theTa:
..Dear Sir: In reply 10 your du'ei 'iSo
mont / would like to state that am
voung lady of refined manners ana gooo
annearance. Have been stenosrapher
for some time, and am now enploEeo III
the office of MIR. John Brown
az wish to change my position, as do
NOT feel that | am fairly treated where
T am having to work from s until o,
with no holidays and no possible chance
y; :, raise in pay. My employer seems to
mink that a stenographer is mere ma
chine with no feeling whatever He is a
mean man, and l can no longer stay
in such a place. Besides he does not
rasard the presence of ladies, sits around
In his coat sleeves and uses the cuspi-
dor very frequently. He is SO engrossed
with himself that he never addresses a
smile or Il kind word to anybody.
II have been working in this place two
months at n salary of S. q week, and
even now l can't get Il raise. So | am
going to make Il change, and If you have
anything better than this TO offer me l
would appreciate an ans"er."
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
Daughter of Empire State Whose Perfect
Figure and Graceful Proportions Rival
the Famous Image of Loves
Goddess
Goddess.

is the ideal bust measure, so shirt waist
makers viii tell you Thirty-six is
rather slight and forty is much too
large. But thirty-eight strikes the hap
Ply medium. There Is q small thirty
eight waist which should just fit the
woman of perfect measurement.
This ideal young woman works as
model in a large wholesale establish
ment. Her mission is to try on the
ready-made clothing, the gowns, the
coats, and other articles which are Of
fered for sale to the retailers. She puts
on the coats and the buyers inspect
them 1t Is a very ladylike piece of
work. and this young woman, who has
an ideal figure. thoroughly enjoys it.
Il could work all day and all the even
ing, she says. 1T Is very nice work
Tor gtrl-if she has the figure"
A 3S-inch bust measurement may seem
rather large for the Ideal figure, but the
new Venus de Milo, If she were carved
in marble and placed upon a pedestal.
'. ould measure just that number of
inches. She would be full in the chest
and her shoulders would be broad. There
Is 10 place in the canons of art for the
slender shouldered girl of today.
If the Venus de Milo were to be carved
over again, out Of solid marble, by the
81 eatest sculptor of 1905, she would stand
very tall: she would be wide In the
shoulders; her waist would be big, and
her hips would be full There has
been a great change in IDEALS said an
artist, "and no one recognizes this bet
ter than the artists"
The girl with the most perfect figure
IN the world has waist which measures
almost twenty-four inches. This may
seem very large, but to tell the truth,
there Is little admiration for the wasp
waist today. Twenty -four inches is not
too much, and, indeed. 1t is not quite
enough If the artists are to be consult
ed. for they admire a big waist
I'm measuring q woman's waist" said
an artist, land in measuring the waist
of this young woman who has the most
perfect figure in the world, you must
make some allowance for fashion.
STYLE" said he, demands that a
wcmans waist be pointed. Her waist
must dip little in the front. that Is.
at her belt line. And this adds inches
and inches to her waist measurement
The girl who can lace her zone into
rineteen inches will measure twenty-five
when that same wa1st has been pulled
down into a dip point
Then there Is another thing to be
considered said he, land that is the
style of the corset OF today. The straight
front makes the dgure beautiful. but it
makes the waist a great deal larger.
There is no getting around this point
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
Do You Want a Good Figure?

If you are too thin to conform to the
new ideal you must plump out little.
and the girl who wants to plump out
must be careful not TO exercise too
strenuously. She must take her exercise
gingerly. II she is too strenuous sne
will irjure herself by working of her fat
instead Of putting it on.
The stout woman. on the other hand.
can hardly take TOO much exercise. Hard
work Is good for her and the harder
she works the better. She must exer-
else and exercise, trusting to l.iek and
hard work 20 get off ner fat.
The girl with the best figure in the
world is TO be congratulated But there
is some consolation for the girl yhoss
figure Is not so good If she is willing
To take the beauty stunts and the physl-
cal culture diet she can do a great deal
for her figure. She can. for one thing
make herself in perfect proportion; and
If good figure be in good proportion
there is great victory gained.
Even though you be Only five feet two
inches in height. you can look pretty.
Don't think that the short girl cannot be-
attractive IN figure This is what an
artist has 10 say in favor of the sh1st
girl:
The woman who is understood is just
as effective" says he, IF she is built
in proportion The Venus de Milo is a
very short woman. But she is so wen
built. so perfectly proportioned that she
looks like a tall girl And so with any
little woman.
Let the little woman take off her
supertiuauS pounds Let her get her
belt lire down just right: let her work
with her arms until they are rounding:
let her get = little fat on her hands: let
her make her shoulders broad. and,
above all, let her be full in the bust.
If the little woman viii go to the
trouble of making her figure nice it viii
be very easy for her to become ideal.
Indeed, she has a better chance than
the tall woman. for she can be more
chic. dainty. more feminine
The female figure is always ideal,
providing it is in proportion
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
HEALTH HINTS.

Rise early and never sit up late
Wash the whole body every morn,ne
by means of a large sponge. and ruh
dry with a rough towel
Drink water.
Avoid spirits and fermented lfouors og
every kind.
Keep the head cool and sleep in an
airy department.
Eat no more than enough and LET the
food be plain.
Let your supper be light
Rapid eating is slow suicide.
Happy children are almost inyarjab bly
healthy children.
Sleeping in a cold room you should
establish a habit of breathing throueb
the nose; never with the mouth open.
A severe paroxysm of coughing NAV
be arrested by tablespoonful of gIy
cerine in n wineglass of hot milk.
Cold water is the salvation of the COM
plexion 1t strengthens the skin bv
stimulating the circulation and renders
1t almost proof against chaps and er,,p-
tions. When the skin needs cleaning
warm water is absolutely necessary.
Don't wear vertically striped material
If you are tall.
Don't expect great bargains to turn
out great savings.
Don't wear big sleeves and big hats
if you are short.
Don't jump into your clothes and ex-
pect TO looked dressed.
Don't put cost before cut. Corded silk
won't cover n poor fit
Don't forget that dress was made for
woman, not woman for dress
Don't put all your allowance outside
A shabby petticoat kills the smartest
gown.
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
The New Ideal Is Tall.

OF all the big girls in New York and
of ali the big girls in the world Miss
Lingard is considered the best in shape.
She is n pretty girl, and that is still
more in her favor, for good looks go
a great way in the race for popularity.
But II IS her figure that is her principal
beauty. She is perfect in every meas
urement Artists seeing her say She
is the new Venus de Milo" Even her
flesh is marble.
Miss Lingard might be a Gibson girl
II she were inclined to pose for the
famous creator of these girls; and she
might be a Wenzell girl She is of the
type which these artists affect and love
TO depict And she might even be a
Burne-Jones girl, though she is almost
too heavy for the Burne-Jones type
The measurements of the new Venus
de Milo are these. Get out your tape
measure, stand against the wall, mark
off your feet and inches and see how
nearly you approach the ideal
Her height is just five feet. eight
inches. That is the height Of the new
woman. It is as tall as a man, and
she measures shoulder to shoulder with
the average man.
Her weight Is ABOUT I1o POUNDS. Inc
new woman can vary in weight from
l35 pounds to $50. There is difference
in mortals. in the texture of the bone
and muscle, the sinew and the hardness
of the flesh. which will account for the
difference in weight of different persons
of the same size. There are girls who
look apparently the same weight, yet
who weigh vastly different. But 1t is
safe to say that 140 pounds is about
right for a woman of five feet eight
inches.
The bust measurement of this new
ideal woman Is thirtyeight inches. This
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
The New Venus De Milo.

But. take it all in all. the new Venus
de Milo can afford to add few more
inches to htr belt line. for 1t makes her
50 much more beautiful
The hip measurement OF the new We
rus Is about <orty-threa inches This
may seem large, but 1t is not too much
" hen you consider that the bust IS
trirty-eignt inches. Large hips are con-
dered beauty, Judged from the recent
pictures OF handsome women, and the
girl with full hips may be thankful. The
fun hipped girl is In style today
So here are the measurements of the
girl with the most perfect figure In the
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
Embroidered Linen Still Popular.

The embroidered linen blouse and the
shirt waist of linen, cheviot, madras,
etc, show no strikingly new phases.
MerceriZed cottons are still fancied. but
there is less demand for the very heavy
mercerized shirt waist materials than
there was a season or two ago.
The shirt sleeve is Il trifie fuller at the
armhole, and the plaits and tucks run
ming down from the armhoie have dis
appeared, in accordance with fashions
general law that sleeves shall, for this
year, be largest at the top. Upon the
regulation shirt waists the shirt cuff.
The Washington times., 1905-04-02

off your height. You can do it with a
bit of chalk. Now extend your arms
and mark off the length from finger tip
to finger tip. Make a chalk mark at
the ends of your fingers where they
ccme upon the wall
Now step away from the wall and
measure your waist line. Pull down the
tape and see if it Is twenty-four inches
A little less, perhaps. Well, so good.
Now take the tape around your bust, an
The Washington times., 1905-04-02

world, of the girl who could pose as a
model for the new Venus de Milo.
Height. 5 feet inches.
Weight, 40 pounds.
Bust measurement, 3S inches
Hip measurement, 43 to IA inches.
Waist about "A inches, maybe 23
And, in addition to this. the new Venus
must have full round figure. She must
be plump. not fat, but well rounded and
full OF curves. The texture of her flesh
The Washington times., 1905-04-02

must be good. and size must have fine
high colcr. The new Venus is the robust
Venus. She is very much removed from
the delicate type which fiourished In
spite of her delicacy a few years ago.
And she must not be Of the supine.
lackadaisical sort, the girl $40 had no
ambition and less appetite.
II you are tall and of full figure and
want TO measure yourself try this meth
od. Stand against the wall and mark
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
The Dainty French Lingerie
Blouse Preferred TO Diners

with link buttons, will according to pres
ent indications be more otter. in evil
dence than it was last year. and when
the wristband cuff is used it is ordinari-
ly wider than 1t was in the days when
the sleeves pagged over it.
The Washington times., 1905-04-02
How a Woman Who Does Not Measure Up
to the Standard May Develop Her
Form and Attain a Symmetry
So Much Coveted.

inch under the arms and across the
broadest part Of your back Let it lie
lax 1t should he thirty-eight inches
without stretching.
Then put the tape measure around
your hips Pull it we'll Forty-tfree in
ches 1t should record. All right so far.
Oh are the ideal Venus. But you have
no. quite finished.
The Washington times., 1905-04-02

rope She can exercise with one and
with the other They ocing different sets
of muscles into play