davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20
DAME FASHIONS LAW.
Extravagant Buttons Are Now the
Thing.
Written for The Star.

Written for The Star.
With the change of frills and furbelows
from heavy silk and wool materials to the
sheerest and thinnest of summary fabrics,
the decorative button loses none of its win
ter popularity. 1t does, however, have the
appearance of being an integral part of
the lightweight frock which it adorns Most
of the fancy buttons come in three sizes,
from the two-nch button for the girdle to
the quarterback button for collar and cuffs.
Mother-of-pearl undoubtedly plays the
largest part in the foundation of the sum-
mer buttons. Unadorned. it serves as the
approved fastening for morning shirtwaists.
but for trimming more elaborate bodiceS IT
takes on endless embellishments and dec
orations. Extremely delicate is a button
with a gold filigree center and a quarter
inch mother-of-pearl rim overlaid with gold
fligree Another pearl button is ornament
ed with small gold crocus, the top of the
circle being cut out to form the upright
petals of the flower. For big coat buttons
the opalescent mother-of-pearl is covered
with sterling silver fligree of fiowery pat
tern. single button of this design selling
for So.
Rhinestones are as much a feature of
summers decorative buttons as they were
of the brilliant ornaments for winters
1rockS. Inc novelty button for nesting in
Shirrings and tuckings of soft materials is
an oval stone, which may be had to match
any of the seasons odd colors, surrounded
by a circle of tiny rhinestones. The but
ton gives the effect of a costly piece of
jewelry. In fact. some women have pins
fastened at the back of the buttons and
them for brooches Single rhinestone
imitation ruby. turquoise or emerald but
tons are used for studding heavy laces or
for finishing silk velvet rosettes
Very costly is French imported button
that has the appearance of Opaque glass.
circular latticework of liquid green compo-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20

sition has its center a star flower OF
paleSt salmon pink A tiny rhinestone at
the heart of the blossom looks like a dew
drop barely daring to rest Oh an almost
transparent petal. Peacock-eye buttons are
sun decidedly in evidence and the same
focusing eye is effected in a shaded coral
button.
Metal buttons are finished to look ex-
aCtly as though they were covered with
silk, and many of them are decorated win
a tiny hand-painted flower Buttons are
also finished in perfect imitation of Persian
trimmings, the rich old world coIoriuss Of
ferlng a stunning contrast when setting on
one of the numberless varieties of shenberd
checks. Shaded and chdngeable silks are
likewise Initiated in metal buttons q silky
finished button of porcelain blue fadins tn
baby blue, an old rose graduating to male
pink, or golden brown growing into tan
Brass buttons are extensively employed in
lines or groups for trimming tailored
frocks.
An elaboration of the metal button has
rim of gun metal or silver. with a center of
shaded chenille, chenille in contrasting
pastel shades. held firm IN the middle by a
tiny flower of cut steel. Leather in any
shade forms the center of buttons with
metal rims. These are employed for set
ting off mannish suitings Not infreuuently
a piece of the suiting itself covers the CEN
ter of the button.
When a button finishes the end of braid
bands or loops or straps it is covered with
braid TO match. Linen suits are trimmed
with linen-covered buttons and on an en-
broidered frock the buttons have embroid-
cred coverings done in the same design in
miniature.
This seems to be the year when the girl
who can do hand painting will be able 10
use her art as she never has before China
buttons. eNquisitely ornamented with ideal
heads or dainty howerets. are the coveted
possession of the summer girl of 1905.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20

The following advice is given by we'll
known fashionable milliner:
Il have one rule for most women. /
match the hat to the hair. The result is
always good. OF course, IL the woman is
old, with white hair 1t is not so satisfac-
tory. But the woman with brown hair
should wear a brown hat and the woman
with red hair should wear a hat in dark
red tones. and so on. If you are going to
buy a hat match your hair.
THE second best thing is to match the
hat to the eyes. The woman with big
brown eyes should wear big brown hat.
The girl with saucer blue eyes can wear a
blue hat, and the girl with hazel eyes ought
to cultivate hats that are hazel and light
brown and yellow brown.
That is a splendid rule for any woman
to remember. Match the hat to the hair
or the eyes. 1t is sure to be a success
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20

nifies the size of stout figures, but many
stout women wear it, nevertheless. merely
choosing the model of the gown with extra
care Black and white. in many checks,
shape number of smart Bingham gowns
which look well on stout women. and a bit
of color about the neck and sleeves of the
coat is a relieving touch. Some charming
little black-and-white check gowns have a
delightfully."- French stamp, with their short
loose Etons and skimp pleated skirts Scar
let null forms the under blouse of one of
these, with white inside dickey and I'M
dersleeVeS.
With the thinner materials anything
which is frou-frou, furbelowed or i1ouncing
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20

guise double chins and swelling hips, and
skirts have come to such cunning cuts that
the abdomen has disappeared. Straight
front corsets, with their flattening garter
attachments. have. of course, much to do
with this, but the narrowneSs of skirt
aprons and the present pleating from the
hips are valuable additions. There are even
maternity gowns so disgusting that young
matrons mcy appear before the world for a
long time without embarrassment. One
such gown has a large box pleat extending
from the yoke of the bodice down the front
of the skirt. Another skirt is made full of
additional pleats let in at the hip section
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20


Many shirt waist frocks are seen In the
simpler wash textures for figures of all de-
grees of flesh and meagerness, but cos
tune with a little jacket is much more
kindly to the stout. In fact, except for
very ordinary wear, the shirt waist frock is
by no means as stylish as the jacket dress,
but the model is far too valuable to be set
aside altogether. Shirt waist dresses in
very pretty merceriZed chambrays and
haIdkerchiefs lines are displayed by all Of
the shops at astonshlngly low prices. And
app opos of shops and prices, the wash box
robe gowns were never cheaper or moro
charming. In these, just at this moment,
charming white embroidered muslin frocks
with fiounced skirts and generous breadths
for bodices may be had for 81 So
Quite a danger threatens the stout women
in the present styles in headgear. Many of
the new hats are SO small and perky as to
seem comical on big heads and above big
she ulders, and the hair needs to be coiffed
in full way to make up for deficiencies in
the headpiece. So more than one ridicu-
lousy tiny turban will seem to sit upon a
mountainous head and If the brim shape is
on the shepherdess order IT Is funnier still
For large faces hat should accord in size
and the gayer eccentricities of the new sea-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20

so that they can be removed on entering
the train and replaced when the traveller
reaches her destination. Anything white or
cream-coored must be immaculate if 1t is
to add and not detract from the traveller 5
raiment.
Petticoats of mohair and mercerized sat
are preferred to the lingerie skirt for
wear beneath the travelling gown. The
lightweight silk petticoat is. of course, the
most desirable garment OF all. but the mo-
hair is an admirable substitute.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20
For the Cook.

Four heaping tablespoonfuls make one
gill.
Eight heaplng tablespoonfuls make one
cupful.
-Four cupfuls of flour make one quart OF
pound.
Two cupfuls of solid butter make one
pound.
Two cupfuls of granulated sugar make
one pound.
Two and one-half cupfuls of powdered
sugar make one pound
ohe pint OF milk or water equals a pound.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20
A Gown of Green Pongee.

Nothing is prettier or cooler looking in
summer than a green gown. The dress
illustrated is of willow green pongec. made.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20

Careful Housewives always use Burnett 8
Vanilla because no state pure food commits
sion has ever questioned Its absolute purity.
ADVERTISEMENT
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20

save for the hand embroidery gracefully
arranged on skirt and waist, on extremely
simple lines. The colorlng in the blossoms
is particularly artistic. embracing various
tones of green. with dull pinks and a pecu-
liar shade of light brown. Very narrow
green silk braid trims the skirt.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20

is suited to slim types, which may likewise
wear the tunic styles, which are trying to
get a hold. Very slim figures will also
stand any degree of putting and shirring,
and emerge from such treatments seeming
as svelte and more graceful than ever. But
to the stout the rumplng up of materials
is disastrous, and such trimming as is used
needs to be fiat and straight, with a sug-
geston of discreet meagerness. Narrow
bias bands and pipings are garnitures for
these, or slight embroideries braidngs
which follow narrow band lines. Some very
excellent redingote effects shown in soft
linens, pongees, etc, recommend themselves
admirably TO stout figures.
Skirt trimmings for the stout are more
often up and down than running around,
and for large necks are shown collarless
waists or straight collar banos of modest
height.
High Stocks.
The immense high stock which scrapes
against the lobes of the ears is only becom-
ing to very thin throats Just the widest
girdles need to embrace the slimmest waist.
The narrow belt which once so daintily
rounded figures IS fortunately almost en-
tirely out of vogue. So, in choosing her
shaped belt. the stout woman needs to see
that the back is not too high nor Is too
much stiffening employed.
Numberless are the little tricks to dis
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20
When One is Stout.

and spreading out in a wide umbrella eff.
feet around the feet
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20
For Slimmest Figures.

The longer coat gown will be found en-
HANGING for the slImmest figures, and the
model is one chic dressmakers are exploit
ing considerably just now.
feature of this coat is that the long
skirt is attached to the girdle like an over
dress. Braid and embroidery combine to
form magnificent trimming, which ex-
PLOTS itself most layishly upon the little
coat.
1t is generally considered that white mag
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20
SMART TUB FR0CKS
Up-tC- Date Models for Stout
and Lean.
WASH GOODS FOR BOTH
THE LOOSE EToN is FOR THE
WELL-RoUNDED FIGURE.
fhe Redingote Helps Out the Person
With the Slender
Figure.
WASH GOODS FOR BOTH
Special Co, dependence of The Star

NEW YORK, May Is, 1908.
The present styles for wash materials suit
both plump and lean figures. The dame or
damsel too stout may be as prettily attircd
as the one too thin if she chooses any of
the models peculiarly designed for her type.
And this IS saying great deal for till
very recently wash materials were rarely
considered by the woman of overweight
First. the pale colors and patterns increased
the look of size. and costumes needed to
be made large to allow for shrinking Now
linens piques ducks etc. are shrunk be-
fore making. and rich. solid colors replace
the neutral tints and disfguring patterns
of former seasons
For stout women lines are long and con-
ceal rather than reveal the figure; for a
close hitting garment always magnifeS big
ness. The skirts are made to hang rather
loosely from the hips. this being accom-
pllshed either by the cut or by a careful
and fiat pleating of the upper part. The
bodice for the stout figure-if in shirt waist
torm-on the other hand. is rather scant
hut II there is jacket it is inclined to be
short and loose. and rather skimp as TO
Tevers and sleeves. The long skirted coat
which fits into the figure is essentially the
privilege OF the slim, though both the large
and small may wear the looSe-haCk coats
with smallish tailor sleeves A number of
such coats still form part of the practical
ilbi Il4ilS suns III llit heavier WASH textures
pleated or gOred skirts going with them
The Elton jacket also is immensely in IA
vor but the loose varieties in this style,
hanging with A pretty shortness over soft
gathered bodices, are preferred to the close
models. Even the heaviest SuitingS are
made up in this loose, jaunty way, but the
costume is so carefully tailored that it
rarely gets out of shape with the washing
Two coat gowns, respectively in dark
blue butchers linen and white duck give
admirable designs for stout and lean fig
uUes. The blue linen which is trimmed with
a deeper shade, is shown by the stouter fig
ure. The short coat is shaped at the back
of the waist with cluster of tiny pleats
held by two large buttons. The pulled
sleeves are only elbow length and allow the
embroidered founces of the white null I'M
derbOuse to be seen. The coat waists
which stout women affect with those wash
frocks-such bodices as are to be covered by
jackets-should always be made of the soft
est materials. a texture which does not ad-
nit of starch.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20
Things to Consider.

AS to the general cut of the gown. the
prospective traveller must solve this prob
lem according to the nature OF her journey
and the length of her purse. The woman
who can afford the luxury of silk dust
coat will employ a long, all-enveloping coat
of this nature over a shirt waist suit Of
silk or mohair. But for the average purse,
the two-piece suit of rough cloth or mo-
hair with harmonious shirt waist. will
give best value in present and future wear.
The short Jacket, with perhaps the pos
tilion back, is the ideal travelling coat. as
redingotes long-tailed jackets of any
sort crease, while the boiero can be hung on
a hook or even folded on the rack overhead
with less danger to its freshness and good
lines.
The travelling skirt clears the ground all
the way round, and it comes in infinite
variety of styles. For the girl who carries
herself well and has a faculty for keeping
her gowns fresh and smart-loling, the skirt
of the moment is the two-piece circular
pattern, with a seam directly down the
front. This is considered particularly de-
sirable when evolved from small, indefin-
able checks and plaids, but it is question
whether it is a skirt which meets the needs
of an economical girl, as it is more apt to
get out of shape than the pleated skirt.
Unless cut by an expert IT is apt also to
hang in points, sagging here or there in
most trying fashion, and If it is bought
ready-made, its seams. and particularly the
piece-out of the gore. must be regarded
with suspicion. Here is where the sasgfng
will be noticed first if the grain of the skirt
is not preserved in the junction.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-20
Pleated Skirts.

OF the making of pleated skirts there Is
practically no end. and quite frequently the
Jackets are built from pleats to match in
| size and arrangement of those employed for
the skirts. A noticeable feature of the very
full pleated skirts Is the double or triple
line of stitching which outlines the waist
and hips on a good curve and Stimulates a
yoke These pleated skirts are particularly
effective on a slender girl, who may also
venture on the full-pleated bolero or blouse
jacket to match. If they are adopted by a
stout woman, the pleats must be stitched
very fiat and the yoke line must be clearly
defined.
A skirt which Will be found most effective
on stout woman is new tailored design
which shows a yoke. boX-pleated in the
front, and smaller box pleats running down
from either hip and in the center of the
back. making four box pleats in all. Be
tween these the skirt is laid in fine side
pleats. Another skirt shows a plain panel
down the front, with side pleats turning in
toward the panel at intervals all the way
round, and these pleatS, just at the knee,
are held in place by flaps of the cloth fin
ished off with buttons. Still third skirt
shows five box pleats, the largest outlining
| the center of the skirt in front. Between
these are panels finished at the bottom with
V-shaped point. under which are stitched
| four side pleats. which, with the box pleats.
give a delightful flare around the foot OF
| the skirt.
For Shirt Waists.
In the matter of blouses. gun metal black
silk. sober shades of pongee and mohair,
plain and figured. with collar and cuff sets
| in tucked lawn or broiderie Anglais, are
preferred generally to wash shirt waists.
| Many of the boleros for travelling show
pieces of linen outlining the front. in ex-
actly the fashion displayed in the white
edgings for mems vests. White and cream
colored vests and chemisettes and dickies
are also combined with heavy cloth In
! travelling gowns, and these are detachable.
Sistersville daily review. [volume] (Sistersville, W. Va.) 1905-1907, 1905-05-16

the "habit," for at the time he
was writing some of his famous
articles he was gambling in
wheat, thus showing that even
such a prejudice as his is not snf-
ficent to cure the "habit. -
The "habit" is the inevitable
result of experimenting with
stocks and grain markets, and
from this great evil come the mi
nor evils. The president of one of
the great Western banks confess
ed to the crime of embezzelling a
million and half dollars of the
banks funds a few days ago,
stating that the entire sum, to-
gether with several thousands of
his own money, had been lost
through his speculations in wheat.
Thus we see that the same furry
in the wheat market which made
Lawson a million and a half has
caused heavy losses for the men
who rehabilitated the Milwaukee
bank, and this because they had
trusted a man who had the habit.
We once knew a young man
who possessed an excellent educa-
ton. FIe held some very desira-
BILE positions with good chances
for advancement and eventually
became the cashier of a bank in
an Indiana city, when he fell. He
had stolen several thousand dol
lars of the banks funds and had
lost it in the grain market.
Though ruined by his habit, he
chung to it until he died, at which
time he was drawing but a small
salary, and was almost pauper.
This great evil, the "habit, y
may be acquired by experiment.
ing with grain. or any other class
of speculation. and the result is
usually ruin.
Sistersville daily review. [volume] (Sistersville, W. Va.) 1905-1907, 1905-05-16
A GREAT EVIL.

Since learning of the fact that
Thomas w. Lawson OF "frenzled
finance" fame made a million ana
a half dollars in the recent
squall in the wheat market IN
Chicago, we have been wondering
where to look for the greatest
evil that comes from our present
methods of fnanciering, and after
carefully considering the matter
we have come to the conclusion
that the greatest evil that we can
get from "frenzied finance" is
habit. Even though Thomas w;
Lawson has become preJudlceo
to such an extent as to give the
inside details of Amalgamated
Copper to the world, he still has
Sistersville daily review. [volume] (Sistersville, W. Va.) 1905-1907, 1905-05-16
ADMINISTRATOR NOTICE.

All persons having claims
against the estate of Ella Nox,
deceased, will present them to me
for payment, properly proven.
All persons knowing themselves
indebted to said estate will please
settle promptly.
II. B. SHRIVER,
Sheriff Tyler County.
Sistersville daily review. [volume] (Sistersville, W. Va.) 1905-1907, 1905-05-16
Young BeIIaire Boy
Drowned Yesterday

Myanzo Baylis, aged II years,
son of Mrs. Josephine Daugherty,
who resides on Franklin Grove,
Gravel Hill, Bellaire, was drown
ed while bathing in the Ohio river
yesterday afternoon about 4
O clock just opposite the north
end of Boggs' Island.
The boys body was recovered
about an hour after the drowning,
and the city authorities notified.
Sistersville daily review. [volume] (Sistersville, W. Va.) 1905-1907, 1905-05-16
The First Open
Transatlantic Race
Ever. Sailed
to Daily Review.

Special to Daily Review.
Navesink, Highland, May 10
The kaiser's cup contest, the first
open transatlantic race ever
sailed, is scheduled to start from
Sandy Hook ightship at 2:15 this
afternoon. Eleven contestants are
in perfect trim, and conditions
are perfect, excepting the wind
and weather. At noon dense fog
arose. and there is now little like
lihood of there being a start to-
day.
Sistersville daily review. [volume] (Sistersville, W. Va.) 1905-1907, 1905-05-16

A. M. Nedd Of Florida, is reg
istered at the Hotel Wells. Mr..
Nedd's mission here is to look af-
ter the oil interests of a Mr..
Brown of Florida, who is interest
ed in the new oil well recently
drilled in on the West land at
Grandview, O. Mr.. Nedd will
make this city his headquarters.
Sistersville daily review. [volume] (Sistersville, W. Va.) 1905-1907, 1905-05-16

ing at least few transforms for
next August or September, when
they may come handy. A little
sunshine is the proper prescrip-
ton for this juncture.
Sistersville daily review. [volume] (Sistersville, W. Va.) 1905-1907, 1905-05-16
RUSSIA'S HUMILIATION.

RuSsia'S present Illuminating
position under other cricumstan-
ces and if Russia were not what
she is. would evoke the sympathy
of the civilized world. 1t would
he natural for the people OF the
United States or Britain, to SYM
pathize with a nation OF white
people in a conflict with people
of another color, or with a NOM
inally Christian nation engaged IN
war with any pagan or non-Chrls-
tan people. But Russia in her sore
humiliation and trouble gets little
or no sympathy, except what
IS extended to her suffering SOL
diers. The reason is not far to
seek Russian arrogance, side by
side with the most amazing IN
capacity, furnished the explana-
ton in part.
Further explanation of the lack
of sympathy for Russia among
the free peoples of the earth is
found in the fact that the present
war is a war of the autocracy'
which refuses to recognize the
ordinary rights of man; when
denies and prohibits free speecn'
which holds the press in letters
and proscribes the right OF petl-
ton; has from the beginning pur-
sued a course of aggression with
out any justification of morals or +
necessity. Thousands and tens OF
thousands of the Russian people
desire that Japan may prove VIC
torious in the war, because they
hone that such result may hasten
tho coming of some semblance OF
froodom at home. Why, then
should not we desire to see Russia
soundly whipped?
Napoleon and Bismarck were
DULLES, it has been said, but they
were DULLES of brains. And 1or
the brainy bully, who by some
thing more than mere brute force
beats down and vanquishes MS
antagonist. we may have certain
resnect. But the Russian govern
ment in this conflict has shown IT.
self a great, hulking bralnleSs
tvrant, which Expresses its own
subjects at home with the lasil
and the sword, while ABROAD IL 10
whipped in every little battle on
land and sea by an antagonist one
third it's size. Japan IS a Tree
country compared with Russia
Her people and government are
wholly united in carrying on the
war. She has been neither AFRO
CANT nor boastful. She had just
cause to draw the sword, and she
has in battle and siege on land
and sea made good her clam 10
all that she is fighting Tor. Sucn
are some of the intelligent reasons
why enlightened free people III
every land extend their sympa'
thy and approval to Japan ano
-o+ 70 Russia
Sistersville daily review. [volume] (Sistersville, W. Va.) 1905-1907, 1905-05-16

1t might be well to suggest to
the weather man for him to con-
slider wisely the matter of reserv-