The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-04-13

Models for YOunsG tLls.
 The milliners are apparently making an effort to force the tiny urban on American women. Whether they will succeed or not is question. In one of the large establishments it is admitted that out-of-town buyers refuse in many cases to take even a few models home with them. Some of the little hats are really absurd. One, in an exquisite quality of straw. dull yellow in color, was shaped exactly like short section of stovepipe. Around the stoyepipe was a wrinkled band of finely dressed kid, while large rosette of the kid, lined with white satin, trimmed the side. springing from the rosette and pointing backward something like a trail of smoke was a large large aig- rette.
 This was, of course, an extreme ex- ample, but dozens of new turbans are almost as ugly. A bonnet is a very dignified headgear, however small, and there is something undeniably pictur- esque in the closely fitting cap toques occasionally worn. But these aggres- sive turbans have nothing to recom- mend them. They are as cockney as the tiny, short-brimmed sailor hat af- fected by the lower orders in England, and, for that matter. some of the or ders not quite so low.
 Avoiding congregations in the way of too highly tilted brims-the spring hats are much bestter. The best milliners do not keep large number of made-up hats. They import their models and make up enough hats on model lines to make a showing, but they do not ex- pect to satisfy fastidious customers. These try on the model hats, perhaps buy one or two, but order the rest made after their own ideas. One may see the straw as well as the trimming before the hat is built. Sewing straw is one of the most important parts of the milliner's trade.
 For the black hat, which is an indis- pensable part of the wardrobe to many women, nothing is more satisfactory than fine horsehair braid. It is more substantial than tulle and quite as be- coming. Transparent black is better suited to most faces than solid black. A lovely model in a black hat was of this transparent and pliable braid. It was a big, sweeping shape, the brim turned up slightly on one side, and dip ping little in the front. It had dra- pery of tulle and lace around the crown, and a. large bird of paradise in gray, brown and pale yellow shades. The bird was placed almost in the front of the hat, and it's long tail extended to the back, where it dropped over the brinl. f.
 Very dashing are the black and col ored tulle hats on braid foundation The shapes approximate to the small, short-back sailor, and the tuile is put on in huge ruches and rosettes.
 A picture hat in black transparent braid had Tam o'Shanter crown and a wide, flexible brin1, for a wonder, not turned up anywhere, but allowed to I droop around the face like a childs hat The trimming was rose wreaths, blush pink and white, part of the wreath ap- bearing in the underbrin1, against the hair, and the rest encircling the crown A very large byack aigrette trimmed the front of the hat
 The new Charlotte Corday is very | picturesque when well developed. Its popularity during the winter has not caused people to tire of it, and young and old women are wearing it. Lace 1 tulle, embroidery and other light mate. 1rio Ie, o,n1 md i ribbons go into the decorations.
 l None of the new spring fabrics have
 made more of an impression than tht
 checked and figured voiles. These
 beautiful fabrics are being made III into street and house gowns in al I kinds of simple and elaborate models They are not made into shirtwaist suit:
 to any great extent, but show quite { l degree of elegance in their style.
 typical simple gown in a violet ant | white check was made with the usua l full skirt, the plaits stitched flat ovel l the hips. The waist was laid in bo1 plaits from the shoulders, two plaits tt
 a side. The front opened to show a low
 necked vest outlined with violet sill l bands and fastened with silk-covere(
 buttons. The wide girdle of violet sill
 was fastened with a large gilt buckle
 The sleeves were draped to the wrist and the open neck was filled irl witt
 8 lace and muslin guimpe.
 Very smart was a red and whit T checked yoile, the entire waist of whicl
 was shirred over heavy cords. Tn shirring gave the effect of up-and-dowl puffs, two fairly narrow puffs and on, wide one in the middle, forming tn
 front. The neck was cut out in mar
 row oblong half way to the belt, show
 ing a transparent gui1npe. There wa
 a hip yoke shirred in perpendicula lines like the waist. In fact the line
 of the waist were continued in tn yoke. Below, the skirt hung full an, 1 plain. There was a wide shirred girdl
 of red silk, the silk also furnishing pip ings to outline the corsage and tn
 suffa oi the sleeves.
 i These volies are extensively used fo
 childrens dresses, and some charming
 models have been seen. Voile, wl1il
 not as durable as mohair is far fror
 being fragile material indeed. : black and white checked voile for young girl had deep hip yoke sea
 loped irregularly at the foot, belo,
 which the skirt was plaited in group of three. The waist had the upper par Dlaited to match the skirt while a sor