The Saint Paul globe., 1905-04-24

: Copyright, 1905, by R. F. Ayers

tCOpyrlSnI, 1JO5, Dy II. r AyeiS}
NHERE is one more evidence of the
tnI high esteem in which mixed ma
terials are held for street wear.
In truth, we resigned ourselves long
since to the acceptance of all sorts of
checks and invisible plaids, to dull
mixtures and soft, bright stripes. Re-
signed is used adyisedly, for the reason
that the art of producing plain weaves
had reached it's highest point and man.
ufacturers were turning out stunning
cfOths which lent themselves to fash
ionable adornment better than mix
lures do.
However, we must have variety, so
the sartorial world finds a desirable
change in all sorts of mixed materials.
In today'S sketch the fabric seems to be
a-Scotch cloth; both in weave and col
oring leading one to that conclusion.
The shades are soft heather gray and
white which make an excellent back
ground for the simple trimming of
black and white seen on the natty coat
The usual street skirt made to clear
the ground is laid in fiat pleats which
are stitched part way from the waist
and the bottom is turned up in a broad
hem and machine stitched twice. AS
the pleatS turn toward the back this
arrangement leaves a box pleat down
panel.
A short coat with basques attached
completes the very simple and smart
little walking costume. The front
blouses Slightly into a narrow belt, and
below comes a shallow basque which
rounds away from the opening and
forms into several overlapping plaits in
the back, where 1t is cut square across
the bottom. Here the narrow stitched
belt droops and the ends form a cross
following the idea carried out i'm the
similarly stitched trimming at the neck
of the coat which has the pointed ends
crossing over each other.
On the cuffs of the moderately large
leg O mutton sleeves the same trim
ming is disposed in a cross band. In
order to produce some contrast and to
relieve the monotony of the soft gray
and white mixtures these trimming
bands are made of white cloth edged
with small black and white braid. The
arrangement by no means detractS
from the severe simplicity of the gown;
on the contrary, 1t enhances its tailory
look. The front must not be neglected.
Instead of the pointed effect one would
naturally expect to find, the sides OF
the blouse fronts are finished with the
bands of white ending at the waist in a
point decorated with a trimming but
ton. These come just a trifle above
the upper edge of the belt, which like
wise is discontinued here after the
same fashion.
Occasionally there comes over a
model costume for the street which is
so finely blended in tones that the first
impression is of plain material. This
Is the case with charming periwinlxle
blue street gown handsomely orna-
mented with embroidery. The skirt is
decidedly novel. From the waist it
appears to be made with smooth fit
ting yoke over the hips and a plain
front. AT intervals, however, the main
part is folded into clusters of tiny
tuckS, which are stitched down for
three or four inches from the bottom of
the yoke. Between each cluster of
tucks comes a plain space of the goods
and across the top of these stitched
folds is a strap of periwinkle blue
mirror velvet.
Even the blouse is exceedingly odd
1t has a fat untrimmed yoke upon
which the blouse is simply gathered
with tiny outstanding frill and two
rows of shirring. Then it pouches ever
SO little into a broad crushed ceinture
of blue velvet, defining the wearer's
trim waist. A broad collar having the
outer edge cut in points extends all
the way down the coat, growing mar
ROVER toward the waist This is a
lighter shade of blue silk appliqued
with infinitesimal velvet designs and
touched with black and white en-
broidery. A double row of buttons
trims the vest part of the collar
One of the very latest designs for a