The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-05-14

oorsst are all that they should be- it Is wiser
70 choose a blouse and skirt design, unless
one can put the making into the hands OF
. aiilful dressmaker.
The princesss frock pictured here was
q very successful one Of French batiste
finely shirrOd to a deep girdle form at the
waist and trimmed In inset valenoiennes
insertion and with valenciennes edging.
0uimps and collar were Of the valenciennes,
and the full skirt showed scrolls Of inset
valsnciennss above q deep founos shirred
IN many fine lines in the points OF the scroll.
Two narrow fat founces. lace edged
and inset. trimmed the bottom Of the deep
hounce, and the whole arrangement Of skirt
trimming was most effective without being
excessively complicated,
The fine dotted and embroidered swisses
make delightful graduating frooks, as
we'll a. the bRtistes, mulls and fine lawns,
and there are new swisses this season,
powdered closely with tiny dots and show
ing ct intervals a small embroidered de-
sign as well, that are finding favor with
dreasmakers.
Outside Of the lingerie province, the plain
and figured nets. chiffon. silk mousseline,
silk gauBe, Grape and all the very sheer
silks are suitable for the graduating frock.
Fine wolfe and eolienne, too, are used where
expense and serviceability are vital con-
alterations, and a very simply made frock
! Of sheer white wolfe with no trimming save
/ nuns plats on the skirts and with some good
/ lace in gliimpe and sleeves il not only a
| very serviceable and inexpensive frOck,
hut a very grlish and pretty one as well.
Chiffon and mousseline de sole are
peFishable and quite rs costly as the fine
lingerie frock which lie more fashionable
this season: but the sheer white silks and
gauzes and Grapes are durable things
All white Is, OF course the ideal thing for
the graduate, but a little model frock
shown by popular house has been copied
for q pretty graduate in one Of the New
York boarding schools.
It ia OF one Of the sheer silky stuffs toe
thin for silk, too heavy for gauze-a white
silk OF the radium or clair de lIme weight
and luster-and is made over white sill
lowered in blurred pink roses. Only the
merest hint Of color or design shows throufh
the white, and In some lights not even that
tint is seen, but there is a fascination in
the shifting. heeting suggestion OF shadowy
color and outline.
A guimpe set with frills Of narrow vslen.
cisnnes sdging, deep cuffs with similar
trimming and deep skirt fiounce trimmed
I'm valenosennes frills are features Of the
frock. and heading the skirt nomoe and
bordering the guimge is heavy scallop
embroidery applique.
For women folk outside the graduatin g
ranks. all sorts OF tempting materials
and models are displayed, but little that is
startlin ely new is put forward now. The
forecast Of months ago has been proved
correct, and while every day shows new
trimming details. combinations &c, the
lines that have achieved popularity are
those whose success was foretold.
The draped bodice with girdle or closely
fitted waist curves and bust line higher
than that Of last season is triumphant,
for the dressy frOck and makers are shown z
A decided partially for fulness laid IN fine
plaits at the shoulder allowed to fall AtfaiRht
10 the bust and then caught up D. httle
plaits down the center front. In VerY soft
goods this arran cement is most graceful,
and II Rives width to shoulder, chest aud
bust. vet defines the bust romdness and
admits Of a closely drawn waist line.
One Of the frocks shown among the small
outs illustrates this idea and has In adj
dition a very attractive skirt OF tunio sug-
eestion. The horizontally plated and
frilled taffeta trimming Of the bodice front
and sleeves is also a good note, and the
whole frook--which Is Of wolfe, tafietA
trimmed-aohieves extreme modishnsss in
a fashion comparatively simple.
Frocks Of tafieta and yelling In which
the whole lower part Of the pain, fun skirt
from the knees down is Of taffeta, the IT.
regular line OF joining 'twiXt wolfe and
silk being covered by some fat trimming,
are among the imported models, and with
the bodice and skirt, taiieta trimmed, there
IA usually short full coat or wrap Of taf-
feta trimmed only IN self frills and rucbes
and bands. Chiffon and silk mousseline
are also combined with tafieta in this same
fashion.
The ponRees are more m evidence a. the
season advances, and though they have
no such vogue as tAffeta, they are the ma
terial employed in a goodly number Of the
smart silk street frocNs. deep (cru
shantunE, with a dash Of amber In its tone.
made quite simply with revers Of the silk
embroidered In self tone and bordered by
stitcbed bands OF the silk, and with soft
.oaTfs Of the elk 10 fAsten the coat AZ the
bust IL one Of the frocks we have chosen
Tor illustration; and 10 the same sbop was
a most delightful soft dull blue shantung
made with a plain fun skirt plated on the
biua and a short loose bOlero, Whose collar
and pocket faps'showed glimpees OF orange
In their blue embroidery
Mohairs, too, come 10 the front with the