The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-11-04

Wear Over Them-AutOmObile Coats 1
 of Fur and Leather-Petticoats of the
 Season.
 The fashionable redingote has been renamed the princess coat, under which title it is increasing in favor on this side Of the water as well as in Paris, several great houses are making a spec ialty of these coats, varying them 10 suit the taste of their respective ellen tele. One well-known house is turning out 8 number of long princess coats of velvet or cloth to be worn as separate coats over silk skirts. Some of these are made. without Innings to the skirts, so that the supple material may cling the closer to the figure. Another house makes lace and silk coats, trimming many of them with costly fur. The empire waist is added to many gar ments, the waist brought into wide draped belts, or into shaped narrow belts of the coat material The object is'to mold the figure from throat to hip curves in graceful, flowing lines.
 The princess skirt is another device for outlining the figure without inter- ruption of a waist line. The cloth suit with cOrselet or princess skirt and short bolero has been described at length in former articles. A new style with the same skirt has a short, loose jacket, like the sacque, reaching a liI- tie below the waist line. Perhaps this does not sound attractive In reality some of the costumes thus made are most charming, especially when the sacque is of lace with an open front or short waistcoat. Everything depends on the style and the skill with which the sacque is built. As 8 rule, great deal of trimming is called for. It is predicted that this model will be popular one in the early spring.
 Meantime the corselet skirt with bre- telles or shoulder straps and no jack ct at all is being worn a great deal for at-home gowns. Light material, voile, cashmere, henrietta, eolienne, and sim liar fabrics are used. The greatest bar gains in these thin materials may be picked up and the prettiest of house gowns contrived for next to nothing Waists of silk, albatross, henrietta, and uyS0 LSASC ct4S NOIil W1Ltl LuGElis
 This is great year for the separate coat. The Empire style has the lead. and it should be pointed out that many coat called Directoire are really Elm pire models. One sees a great many white, biscuit, and champagne colored coats for evening and carriage wear, while green, brown, claret, plum, and purple are favorites for day ordinary uses. A new green called Empire, a shade between leaf and emerald, ap- pears in several new carriage coats.
 The coats called Directoire are some- times furnished with a series of capes which give a certain variation to the Empire style. The waists of these are high. and the lines long and clinging. The CarricS coat is less modish, but, having a good-sized cape attached. is warm and comfortable.
 A charming Directoire- Empire coat in deep claret red had a fitted waist end ing under the arms in a, stitched belt, which dipped in the front. There was a shaped collar of velvet extending to the waist line, and the jacket had row of large buttons on either side of the opening. There was only room for three buttons on a side, and one of those was attached to the belt. The skirt of the coat was laid in large, loose plaits running towards the back, where an inverted plait formed suffi- cient fulness. The coat was lined with lovely shade of rose satin. which ex- actly blended into the warm red of the cloth.
 A charming Empire coat of light brown cloth had the waist outlined with band of the cloth tucked in very fine tucks pressed flat and inset in the cloth of the coat. The bands crossed in a surplice, and were extended around the back of the waist. The same bands trimmed the sleeves above the wide, flaring cuff.
 A genuine Directoire style was seen l in a biscuit-colored coat combined with a slightly darker shade of heavy satin. ] The coat was tight fitting from should CTS to hips, and very full in the skirt. The collar. revers, and lining were of | the satin, and there was a very rutf1y waistcoat and stock of white Brussels net. The revers on the waist and the turned-iback lining of the skirt were fastened with large brown velvet but tons. The sleeves were tight, and were
 slit up the back to the elbows. the iin- ing turned back in revers and buttoned
 with the velvet disks. Ruffles of net
 were also seen in the sleeves.
 For steamer wear and for rough use good serviceahle coats of tweed ana
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