The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-02-17

Prof. c. H. Young of Columbia Uni versity gave talk on Some Practi- cal Hints on Greek Dressmaking to the Classical Club of the New York Normal College, recently, and he gave such clear directions that any girl in New York, after listening, could make herself a brand-new himation, tribon, or chiton, with bib or full-blouse front and girdle, and look the picture of Greek goddess if she was careful with her garb at windy corners. Prof. Young, who has made study of the subject, went into many details. He showed fully that the Eton packet is one of the most ancient garments worn by the women of whom Homer wrote and whose portraits were done upon vases and friezes instead of in minia- lures and eanvases. Skirts changed from curve-discovering, clinging gar ments-the early chiton in the days of DemOsthenes-tO handsome, full-kilt petticoats, always however, attached to the upper part of the garment; then became fuller again, hanging in deep folds. The wives in those days, as in these, slipped, in case of emergency, in- to their husbands automobile coats, then called himations, and when Kan tippe refused to wear any garment but her own. Sophoeies said she was a vain thing and only wanted to have people gaze at her.
 Men are all alike!'' sighed a pink checked blonde, who did not look more than 16, as Prof. Young gave this bit of ancient history.
 The early Greek woman wore a chi ton, narrow and clinging, a sole gar ment at first, and later added the Eton jacket. This reached what was prob ably the waist line of the corsetless Greek lady by whom it was worn, fit ted trimly and was in material show ing crosses a little smaller than those on the chiton skirt.
 Tt is just like my last spring coat" whispered another Normal School girl, ''only I should think the lady would be cold as to her arms"
 These sleeves said the professor, pointing to a pretty pair which might figure on any summer afternoon gown. were not separate pieces of cloth set in, but were shaped from the cloth of the garment, fitted with box plaits.
 '"The Greeks had an advantage over 'us," he continued, flor they had their materials woven in single pieces, while we have seams. They used at first linen, then woolen, and silk and cotton came later, and were worn by the rich CT classes. l tried my model first in cotton crepori, then in woolen Henriet- ta cloth, which hangs in beautiful folds and the outside garment or himation made of large square of ladies cloth.
 You see, that one of these garments is nothing but big bolster case fold- ed over at the top, The picture on the screen showed models head with the big bolster case held before her and extended as far as her arms could stretch.
 1T tell the model in putting it on. to make herself as comfortable as possible before anything else,'' the professor continued T was very successful with my first model, who was intelli- gent and took an interest In the work. The second was fortunate, carrying her head forward and looking like a tortoise and she had an artificial waist. She was round-shouldered, too, but you see that she looks very we'll in the costume, which shows what can be done on classic lines. ss
 "A charming little model made some beautiful poses and I had foot 91-2 inch model for the Henrietta cloth cos tune. For her that was 124 inches around and 20 long. She was pecu- liar woman, with the figure of wo- man of feet from the waist down and of a woman feet from the waist up. But she looks well in the costume, which shows that all the women of an- cient Greece did not necessarily have perfect figures. Another model, of 5 feet 5, wore this same costume, and ex- cept that the bib is a trifle long she looks very well in it.
 That's another beauty of the clas- sic costume" said a plump, short girl. Burnett's Vanilla Extract has outliv- aa eritinism Ii is the finest and pureSt