Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-03-11

terial must be made up over a slip of
sheer white silk.
incidentally it may be mentioned that
the smart Parisienne employs these silk
slip waists under all of her lingerie blouses
She does not countenance the display of
hand-embroidered, lace-trimmed, ribbon
run corset covers which show so distinctly
through the transparent waist. Sometimes
she employs colored silk slips of palest
blue, pink or yellow.
In Smaller Sizes.
Nets have by no means lost their vogue,
and the discs employed so generally last
summer as a pattern are seen again, but
in less exaggerated sizes. Brussels net
trimmed with Valenciennes lace is a ia
vorite combination, and if dash of color
is desired, Brussels net stamped with
big splashing flower designs will give sat
isfactory results. Lawns are more sheer
than ever, and nothing pays better than
real linen lawn trimmed with a dainty
pattern of FalencienneS lace For this ma
terial, tucking and accordion pleatings are
the favorite modes of trimming. In fact,
accordion pleating has never appeared SO
generally in the composition of wash
waists. 1t will add to the trials of the
laundress, and will probably enrich the
Golfers of the dry cleaner.
The lingerie blouse is not to be confound-
ed IN any way with the shirt waist, simple
or elaborate for the summer blouse fol-
evening waist. Tuck or guimpe effects,
deep berthas and shawl collars finish off
the top of these garments. Sleeves are
works of art, while highly built, fancifully
finished girdles replace the crush belts that
were once the joy of the summer girl.
The three-quarter sleeves will unques-
tionably reach the flood tide of popularity
in the first warm days, and for earlier wear
the general tendency of the separate blouse
sleeve is to give three-quarter effect.
That is. the full part of the sleeve extends
from the shoulder to a point just below the
elbow, and there joins snqg-fitting cuff.
In India Linen.
A notable instance of this tendency is
shown in a blouse of India linen, composed
of clusters of tucks, lace insertion and
bands of embroidery showing a design in
small dots. The bands run around the arm,
and where the upper part of the sleeve
swels out from the deep cuff there are
square scallops inset with flounce of the
lace. A blouse of chiffon cloth has deep
cuffs fiaring upward toward the elbow
made from fagoting and tiny ruchings Of
rose-colored ribbon. Near the elbow it
meets an enormous puffed upper sleeve
shirred snugly into the shoulder seam and
falling from the elbow in the effect of dou-
BILE fiounces. The yoke of this blouse might
be described as star-shaped, showing deep
points of the fagoting and ribbon ruching.
A batiste blouse shows a clever adapta-
ton of both the surplice and fichu effect.
The waist and sleeves are made compare
lively plain and the feature of the garment
is its shallow yoke of fine lace alternating
with fagoting finished with an accordion
pleated ruffie, lace inserted and edged. On
the right side this deep-collar effect runs
down TO the waist line. tapering to a point,
and with its pretty V-shaped neck it makes
an ideal garment for warm weather.
Another Model.
For the slender girl a dainty blouse to be
worn with a lightweight wool skirt is of
supple silk combined with lace The yoke
shows tiny ruchings, alternating with lace
insertion and finished with a deep bertha of
lace to match. The lower part of the blouse,
from yoke line to the top of the high
girdle and the elbow-length sleeves are
built from double ruching trde wider
run through the center with an extremely
fine ruching of soft silk ribbon. A high
crush girdle and d graduated fiounce from
the elbow complete the design. BY remov-
ing the yoke this can be turned into most
effective evening blouse, and would be a
most useful garment for informal dances.
The most eXtravagant lingerie waists are
those which show a very sheer material in
combination with real Valenciennes lace,
and for the girl who has a graceful neck
this combination is most effective when cut
either in the Dutch style or with slight
V-shape, back and front. The yoke, which
shows alternate clusters OF tucks with lace
insertion, then comes to deep point back