The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1905-03-23
TIE FASHIONS.
THE HIGH GIRDLE POPU-
LAR.

: Demanded by Loose Draperies and
Quantity of Material Used-Princess
Gowns-More Millinery Openings
The New Sailor Hats.
The prevalence Of the very high CIR
die must have been noticed by every
shopper. Half the street gowns seem
to be furnished with a high belt, and
the dinner or evening gown which has
not such an arrangement is an ex-
ception. The explanation lies in the
fact that, the fashionable silhouette is
very trim WASTED, and the high belt is
necessary to preserve this effect.
Materials are so soft and are used in
such quantities that some means of
preserving the trim figure had to be de-
vised. The belts are well boned, and
are more like bodices than girdles. .
They are usually of the gown mater
ial, but many silk and satin ones are
seen, and separate girdles in chameleon
ribbon are to be had. Even the leath-
er belts are on girdle lines. They dip
in front and often are held in the back
with a large buckle.
The trim figure ideal is displayed
in the many princess gowns which are
being shown. This is a good model for
evening gowns, but is not particularly
good for tailor gowns. Some very at
tractive street. gowns in the princess
style have been seen, but they were
nearly all accompanied by short wraps
or boleros. which took away from the
tight-fitting, effect. Not one woman in
twenty can afford to wear princess
gown unless the lines are broken with
trimmings or yelled in some manner.
In the soft materials so popular at
present some very beautiful princess
robes have been made. One in pale
yellow chiffon had the upper part of
the waist in small puffs divided by mar
row Valenciennes bands. The puffs
outlined the corsage, and the two low
er puffs were carried under the arms,
Forming a bolero effect. The gown
under the puffs was laid in fine, close
plaits, which shaped it at the waist and
over the hips The skirt parted in
front just below the waist line, to show
a shirred petticoat of white chiffon.
Oblong motives Of Valenciennes lace
were sewed to the skirt, holding it
partly together over the petticoat.
Three inch-wide lacks finished the skirt
at the hem. The sleeves were two
puffs, divided by narrow lace banding
and pointed ruff1e lined with white
chiffon. 80
The draped and pointed bodice is an
other style better adapted to evening or
at least elaborate gowns, than to
cloth walking dresses There are ex-
ceptions to this, of course, especially
if the gown be very well built. In that
case the pointed bodice looks very we'll
in almost all materials. This style
Is often becoming to stout figures.
There are many new and beautiful
soft silks in the stores. Some of them
are almost as sheer and pliable as
chiffon. The colors are changing. One
of these silks, which resembles eolienne
somewhat, come in a variety OF lovely
pale shades, invisibly stripped or
checked. A gown of shell pink silk had
a shirred skirt trimmed with Va
1enciennes banding put on in large
diamond pattern, with the silk cut out
beneath. In the centre of each diamond
was an application of lace. A group of
tucks above the hem gave body to the
bottom Of the skirt. The waist was
rather too lavishly decorated with lace
to match the simple and beautiful skirt,
but the simple sleeves made up for this.
They were quite original in design. A
full shoulder puff extended about six
inches down the arm, and was divided
from the fiounce below by band of
lace insertion The f1ounce was cut in
diamonds all round, and these We're
edged with the insertion.
"A. very simple gown Of mignonette
green louisine, a very soft and clinging
fabric, had a skirt shirred in deep din
yoke, the shirring heavily corded
Three groups of corded shirring near
the foot of the skirt were divided by
narrow puffs. much fuller than the
skirt. The blouse was simply cut, and
had corded puff outlining the half
low corsage. A high girdle ac-
cempanied the gown. The sleeves were
corded and shirred in two puffs at the
top, and were ruff1ed below.
The millinery openings are at their
height just at present, and it is even
said in some shops that the choicest
hats have already been sold That
Southern exodus which has created a
fifth season has also created a demand
for very early spring hats and gowns.
Some very pretty simple toques and
turbans suitable for travelling have
been seen. The straw used for these
are mostly rough weaves, one very
coarse and loosely being a great-favor-
lite. A small turban in this straw was
in several shades of green, and had no
trimming except simulated wings of
the straw lined with green velvet
T. Another very effective little turban
was in rough gray straw, brilliantly
finished, with small disks of bright red