The Republican journal. [volume] (Belfast, Me.) 1829-current, 1905-12-14
at present. AS irrigation progresses
through these arid regions, its produc-
ti0u will ra ntdlv iporo0co

ton will rapidly increase.
Our last stopping place was Snow
flake, the most thriving settlement OF
them all, little village of about 600
inhabitants. They have damned up
the small river it is on, forming reser-
voir above from which to draw as need
ed for irrigating. l spent a pleasant
day there in needed rest and in stroll
ing over the town. Every inch of land
is utilized; everywhere it is green and
thriving; every back yard is filled with
fine thoroughbred fowls; the streets are
lined on both sides with immense shade
trees growing in the edge of the mar
row threads of irrigating bitches which
cross and recross the little village in
every direction. There are stores, a
church, a hall, a fine academy, and
numerous nice residences. Several of
the wealthy old residents still persist
in clinging to the beloved and time
hOnOred customs of their religion, in
spite of the recent revised laws of the
United States, and continue to con-
duct their several households, having
from to wives and families in as
many establishments. In fact, one
most prominent citizen has d fine flat
house, with one of his families on each
floor, and l was told "they all get along
together just lovely, "a statement
very hard for me to believe. But if
there is any ''hairpulling' it is care
fully concealed from the inquisltiye
ness of outsiders. | understand the
letter of the law is complied with, mas
much as no man now takes more than
one wife, but those who already had
more refuse to relinquish them, law
Notwithstanding. l attended a dance
in the evening and the hall was
thronged with young and old, everyone
dancing furiouSly, from little tots of 5
and years to the ''oldest inhabitants.
The dance was opened and closed with
prayer Deacon Flake of the 3-t1at
household staiked majestically up, sur
rounded by a bevy OF ladies, and intro
duced them in turn, "this is Mrs. Flake,
Mrs. Flake, Mrs. Flake" A delight
full situation, surely. 1t is one of the
foundation principles of their religion,
and that of their forefathers, to rear
large families, to build up that religion,
it is firmly and honestly believed in by
all.
The next morning l started across
the desert to Holbrook. A portion of
this way named the dashboard in my
first trip over the trail to Fort Apache.
1t is most peculiar formation of ledge,
which can be described only as driving
over the ridges of huge washboard.
Most of the desert is sandy, covered
with stunted cactus and mesquite, and
the prairie dogs are so numerous and
SO tame that | saw dozens of the cum
ming little fellows sitting on their
launches by the sides of the trail, eye
ing us as we passed. They make such
interesting pets, but are difficult to
capture, as on approach they vanish
into their holes; these holes or passages
extending for miles, crossing and re-
crossing each other through all prairie
dogtown. There being no water for
30 and 40 miles the tiny inhabitants of
these towns must of necessity 90 deep
into the earth for underground springs.
The long, dusty drive came to an end
and the black smoke of the train just
pulling out of Holbrook looked and
smelled good to me, the first train
had seen for nearly two years. After
resin g a day at the Apache House, Il
coy, home-llke little hotel | took the
Santa Fe train at I o'clock the next
morning, arriving at Williams the next
afternoon, but missing connection with
the Grand Canyon train | mad few
hours in which to look about the little,
breezy stirring western town. Plenty
of MeXicanS and Indians in evidence,
and the stores hold wonderful col
lectionS of curioS and Mexican drawn
work which would make the eyes of
eastern ladies glisten. Those who have
made the handkerchiefs and small
doihes know how dainty and intricate
the work is. and the patience and in
" of tbacn Navionnc
wonderful when we look at the tea
cloths, pillow shams, sideboard scarfs
and such large pieces with but small
center of plain linen, the rest being
solid draWnwork of the most elaborate
patterns, which it would seem must
take months of close application. This
work sells very reasonably. | purchas-
ed four pieces of the most beautiful
designs on best quality linen, prices
ranging from $500. to 5000. The piece
for which paid 5000 we would consider
worth $500 had we to make it. Their
silver tiligree work, of which | have
some specimens, shows the finest art
of the sllverSmith, and is done by them
with the crudeSt of instruments.
At six | was on the Canyon branch
train, and very nearly had the expert
ence, that night, of being in a ''wash-
out" 1t having rained hard in the
mountains for couple of hours previ-
ously, swelling the creek, which flooded
the roadbed in places, so our train
crept slowly forward inch by inch, and
as we looked from the windows we
could see the water glistening on both
sides. At II we pulled in and went di-
rectly to a hotel and to bed, very tired
with the long days journey and the ex
element attendant on the latter part
of it.
In the morning | arose early, eager
for my first glimpse of the wonderful
Grand Canyon of the Colorado. Step
ping on to the broad veranda | looked
cut into grove ofimmense pines, with
glimpses of blue sky between, and a
second and third hotel stretching out
at each side, with white tents glimmer-
ing here and there. Walking slowly
forward hundred yards, something
picture-began to take form through
the thinning trees, and then, all at
once, without any warning the earth
opened before me. | stood upon the
brink of what seemed to me to be a
bottomless pit. The suddenness, the
surprise, the revelation rooted me to
the spot. With gasp raised my eyes
and the whole magniticence of the
Grand Canyon burst upon me, or l
burst upon that; no one could be pre-