davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01

a little less rolling as to brim. of plum
eolored velvet. Folds OF lavender satin
ribbon were twisted tightly around the
crown. and at the left side were caught
stiff wings. shading from plum TO lavender.
A Partisan creation. emphasizing the
fact that autumn is really with u.s. was a
ee-quarter coat with capes. and skirt
of golden brown broadcloth. The coat was
almost tight fitting at the waist line, but
fiared below. The coat was three-auar-
ter fitting, or. to be more exact. little
rfore than that. with the graceful incurve
at the waistline showing the wide swell,
the well-deyeloped hips. and curvfng out
above them over the fun figure. 1t was
single breasted and buttoned down the
center with crochet buttons of large size
exactly matching the color of the gown.
There was shawl collar of the cloth,
the inner half being of velvet of a light
shade set in, the cloth overlapping and
being stitched down on it. The two Shout
der capes are fiat, the lower having few
scant folds. The upper one comes just
over the shoulder seams and the other is
four inches deeper; both are stitched
twice around their edges. The sleeves
were very much like those described
above in the short sacque but were
longer and had two bias straps of the
cloth, each two and a half inches wide
and couple of inches apart at the bot
tom as a finish, the lower band turning
back like O. narrow cuff and the upper go
ing only three-fourtbs of the way around,
leaving the back and its. fullness to droop
a little. A crochet button was sewed to
each pointed tab of these upper bands.
The skirts of the coat had the double
or tunic effect now so often seen in the
jupe proper, for under the edge of the
coat another section six inches wide was
set on the silk lining: both edges Were
stitched to match the capes. The coat
nm he tlcl
and the upper ends of the center were ex-
tended to form six-inch tabs, tapering to
rounded points: these points were crossed
at the waistline and large crochet but
ton held each in place.
The skirt, the tep of which could not, of
course be SEEN was apparently tight over
the front and hips and had few plaits at
the back. 1t barely escaped the ground.
and it's decoration consisted of a bias
band of the material about the bottom
four inches wide; from this band at four
teen-inch intervals tabs matching those
on the coat back extended upon the skirt,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01

fit OF despair. declaring that she never
could understand II and that she had de-
cided 1t wasn't worth while any. longer to
try. l have seen a girl almost in tears
over her composition, affirming that she
hadn't thought in her head and wouldn't
know how to express 1t IL she had. l have
even known girls whose spelling was atrS-
cious, perfect disgrace. who calmly stated
that correct spelling was beyond them and
that their gifts lay in some other direction.
mention no names but every teacher has
names on her roll over which she frowns
and signs. knowing that they stand for pu-
pills who quite contented with second
best or third-best marks, and whose rating
Is away down at d when it ought to be at
A. Such girls simply fall down In a heap
before the studies they don't like or don't
entoy-the studies that for them mean
earnest work and perhaps a hard battle
and they are not ashamed merely to escape
failure and be pulled through rather len
lent examination at the close of the term.
Elizabeth would not do this as matter of
course, nor would Evelyn or Kathleen or
Dorothy. l hope. and indeed I know, that
you are far above such slip-shod methods
of study, but girls with names just as love-
ly are often enough deficient along these
lines.
1t happens In this way. We do not know
the real value of golden talents.
Suppose we divide our talents under three
heads. We may have golden talents, silver
talents and leaden talents. The golden tall
entS are those we most desire. but we do
not always get them by nature. A girl
with a leaden talent may change IL after
awhile, IL she Is faithful and painstaking
and Flooding. for a talent of silver. and a
girl whose talents originally were silver
may in the progress of her school years
have them transmitted to gold There is a
verse In the Bible which applies just here.
II Is. Take away the dross and leave a
cup for the refiner." Rough ore must go
through a good many severe processes be-
fore II can be changed into articles for
beautiful daily use
One girl in your class has tales.. which
almost amounts to genius for EI.S tsh lit
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01
" A11-Round"
Scholarships
BY MARGARET K. sANGsTER.
fTn,rrIght yQnZ nv Inzaph II Row 10,

BY AARGARET L. SANGS1kR.
Copyright. 1905. by Joseph b. Bowles.)
In this open letter to group of girls who
have confided In me l am going to put
some bits of practical advice for all the
school girls who make beautiful our streets
as they hurry on. to be in their places be-
fore o clock in the morning.
There are many thousands of you. dear
girls, who are the pride and joy of the
homes you come from. like to catch the
your sweet voices and to watch the light
ness of your feet as you fit along over the
country roads or village pavements. or the
thronged avenues of our great towns. In
some ways you girls are very much alike:
ia some others you are different. But there
Is not one OF you who can afford to pass
by my counsel that you snail become an all
around scholar.
Did I hear dark-eyed Dorothy saying:
II wonder what that means?' Let me ex-
plain:
If were you would put the accent. the
emphasis, OF all my school work on the
strong word Endeavor. / would endeayor
everywhere and at ali times to do my best.
brilliant than the best of some other girl,
but for that ] should not care. We are
never required TO use other peoples talents.
We are responsible only for the use We
make of our own. Faithful, diligent work
done over and over every day. IN the school
room, amounts to great deal more at the
end of the year than an occasional squirt
In which we make great advance End
after which we fall back into Incidence and
do almost nothing.
I have seen girl. and a very nice girl.
too. throw her algebra across a room in .
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01
Miss Roosevelt in Japan

From the New York Tribune.
Mrs. T. T.. THOMPSON, a Tribune Sunshine
Society member in Japan. has written an
,,+erast,ne account of the reception given
Miss Alice Roosevelt at Nagasaki in Au-
gust. She says:
II thou wouldst view fair Melrose Alright
Go visit 1t by the pale moonlight.
And If YOU would see Nagasaki at its best
uor Ynust come when she is en- fete for one
cause or another.
The fact that the daughter of the Presi-
dent of the United States was to spend
day In our little city was quite enough 10
rouse our Japanese friends to frenzy OF
rejoicing and hospitality
For a week we were sadly anxious about
the weather, which was behaving as paoiy
as the oft-quoted oldest inhabitant couid
remember. and everything depended upon
fine day; incipient typhoons and tan enos
~ storms from every quarter of the COM
nass visited US each day. until we quite de-
snatred of being able to show our guests
what Nagasaki could do in the way OF per-
lection of weather. air and scenery COM
hjnad IN rare summer day. In spite OF
omr fears however the gods were propi-
tons and the morning dawned sereneiy.
We were ALL for the day, the guests OF the
municipal authorities. and when the Japa-
neSe do a IHiiS tuSy VIZ ~ NiioAoNcA-AS
per example DISCRIMINATING an enemys
fieet)! Not detail Of preparation is too
small to be carefully planned and as re-
suit the fete given in Nagasaki was lovely
beyond words. The firing of five guns from
a prettily decorated launch announced at
O. clock that the Manchuria was steaming
up the bay, and at once Gov. Arakawa,
Mayor Yokoyama and Consul Harris sailed
out to welcome the distinguished guests
and to present to Miss Roosevelt fine
bouquet of lilies, sent by the municipal
board Soon five guns again announced
that the party were coming ashore, and
day fireworks were sent up in profusion.
until the sky above the harbor was peopled
by quaint figures. little men and women
carrying umbrellas or flags. or riding in
military fashion prancing steeds. and
flags american and Japanese) in every
sort OF combination, strings OF them sailing
across the sky, and anon developing into
one huge flag: long lines of them floating
away until they disappeared behind the
hills, the whole effect quite fairylike, and
exciting the same "Ohs!" and "Ahs!' from
the boys and girls of Dali Nippon do the
rockets and wheels In the homeland at
night on typical Fourth of July.
When the party reached the shore they
found 1t lined by countless numbers of the
native residents, waving fags, carrying
banners Of curious device and cheering
themselves hoarse with enthusiasm. The
morning was given over to an informal re-
ception at the American consulate. when
Nine. Arakawa presented to Miss Roosevelt
an exquisite shower bouquet of white
oleander and maidenhair fern in behalf Of
the Japanese ladies.
1.-THE international Clubs Cargely Japa-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01
Off 1sMolN@@5 gR5@3zQd

Another sacque and skirt to match were
recently seen on distinguished looking
woman. In this instance The material was
plum-colored serge. The coat skirt siTnll-
lated double skirt, the foundation being
round length of the plain material, over
which came the skirt proper, cut circular at
the top and forming fun folds atsthe bot
tom, where it ended some eight inches from
the edge of the foundation. This fouilda-
ton, by the way, was set on soft taffeta
silk of the same color, and extended up not
more than six inches under the circular Sec
tion-the falling back of the upper section
as the wearer sat down revealing this fact
Where the serge Tapped on the silk it was
stitched around several times, and the eff
feet was ornamental
4
At each side the circular section WAS
sieshed, and the front breadth was rounded
up to a depth of twelve or fourteen inches
and Tapped over the sides, the abundant
folds rendering this easy. This circular
part was stitched four times eighth OF
an inch apart around the bottom, and where
the fronts were carried up the sides and
Tapped over three large .diamond-shaped
nolds covered with plum colored velvet
were placed. each mold showing lines Of
line lavender silk cord that traced cross
or each button. One of these buttons was
placed at the top of the slash near The
lower part, where II Tapped over, and the
third midway between.
The sacque came only little below the
waist line. The Empire yoke was very
deep, nearly half the depth of the entlrs
jacket, and was cut in four points in both
the back and the front. the four at the
back being wider than in the 'front.' The
woke formed the side extensions down the
front. The body was laid In six shallow
box plaits and two side plaits, the latter
being formed by the front extensions OF
the yoke the plaits tapping toward the
sides.
There were two shallow box plaits on
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01

erature. She pursues that with ardor and
Is at the top of the class. but she has no
special turn for mathematical study and
has to be dragged through 1t by main force.
Another girl has passion for figures. finds
them absorbing and easy. and without much
effort carries off all the honors- As for
geography, botany, rhetoric and physics.
she Is quite resigned to mediocre stand
ard In them. and, though successful in
spots. she. like her friend, is anything but
an all-around scholar.
~
The fact is Dorothy-and ! want every
one of my girls to listen--the object of your
school life is preparation for tomorrow. The
knowledge you gain today is by way of a
foundation for tomorrow's building. Only
little while from now you girls will be
in the doorway of bright and charming
future. with all sorts OF opportunities press
ing upon you. Your tomorrow viii be
bright and glad. full of duties. full of pleas
ures and full of responsibility.
School life Is your time for getting ready
so that when you enter on a more independ-
portance. The ali-arolnd scholar OF the
present will one day be the all-around wo-
man in business. In a profession. in society.
or, best of all. in the household. Nowhere
else can an all-around girl be SO useful and
SO iovable as In her home. wish that the
girls write for and to whom am talking
might every one be the sweetest home
daughters in the wide world.
One of the essentials Of happy and sue
cessfui womanhood Is that women should
be interesting. A duh, commonplace. >un-
responsive woman may have pretty face
and a good figure, but Notwithstanding her
beauty people will soon grow tired OF her
and seek other company. One cannot be
interesting unless she has both sympathy
and information.
A girl who has made herself familiar with
several feds OF learning and who has a
weis-disciplined mind may not always be
able to talk brightly, but she will know
how to listen inteliigently. Better still, she
will know when to keep still. an Invaluable
bit OF knowledge for woman.
Old people will find this girl charming and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01

cular. affair and was finished at the bottom
by six-inch tuck-if tuck 1t may be called
of the goods some six inches from the ex-
treme lower edge; this gave double-skirt
effect
The sacque had an empire yoke cut in
modified scallops at it's lower edge, these
points being stitched down over the body,
which had plalts in both the back and the
front. The sleeves ended little above the
wrists in turned-back cuffs. and were mod
erately full. The garment came few
inches below the waist line; in fact, just be-
low the hips.
Mrs. Astor's chapeau was a dun green
crinolne rolled at both sides, very narrow.
and having dull greenish wings crossing
through or on the crown and pointing out
in slanting line from the left toward the
back to the right near the front.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01
Sun Parlor for Baby.
,m the Philadelphia Record.

From the Philadelphia Record.
Summing the baby Is the, latest thing in
baby culture. No household Is too poor to
possess one of these patent adjustable sun
pariors
They are made of some kind of hard wood
and built by the carpenter to extend beyond
the window. The top and sides of the little
platform are covered with glass, and strips
of carpet are laid on the floor to stop up
any cracks there may be. No matter how
fiercely the winds may blow or how low
the thermometer may sink the sun parlor
is always ready for the baby.
A pillow Is placed on the carpeted floor,
then the baby Is warmly dressed and well
covered for its morning or afternoon nap.
Mothers who have tried this method OF
summing the baby are boaSting of the gain
In weight and health and have the proud
satisfaction of knowing they are strictly up
to date.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01

NEW YORK. September 20. 1903.
The Duchess of Marlborough Miss Con-
suelo VanderbiIt) has been frequently seen
in town with her mother. Mrs. Oliver IL r
Belmont, during the past few days. She Is
as svelte and as youthful in face as VIXEN
here two years ago, and looks twenty
rather than twenty-seven, and the mother
Of a boy of ten Her beauty is of the ethe-
real type and the soft, fluffy. but ehnging'
trailing gowns in which she is usually SEEM
are the sort best suited to her
one of these frocks, worn at smart ''ta
avenue restaurant at the luncheon hour'
showed the soft, pale shades of blue, PINK,
and also white and black
The frock was topped by fiat. round
hat of blush gray chip. trimmed with PINK
roses. autumnal-hued rose leaves and pale
blue ribbon
Resrolycd into its clements the gown was
conposed of white chiffon cloth, having
tiny hollow rings of black sprinkled over
its surface. The chiffon cloth was ar
ranged over slip of pale blue silk OF SOFT
clinging quality. and there was girdle and
sash. with long ends of the same shade of
blue i'm liberty satin.
The skirt of the gown trailed slightly in
the back and touched elsewhere; the lower
half or nearly half it, was formed OF scan
4ily gathered ruffies of the chiffon ABOUT
five inches wide each edged with an inch
wide ruffie of white lace. Forming mead
ing to the lace on each rutfie was a pale
pink liberty satin ribbon between an eighth
and a quarter of an inch in width. Al me
knee line above these seven or so rufiies
there came seven-inch ruff1e of white lace,
dividing the lower ruffies from the upper
The upper ruffies extended from about the
hip line to the lace ruffie, and were mar
hplO
skirt was slightly gathered at the waist
zine and the rather narrow-shaped girdle
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01

of blue satin had ITS long ends falling d.
rectly in the back.
The gathered bodice had narrow ruffles
finished with ribbon and silk to match
those on the skirt. and these ruffies formed
a fichu effect up the back. over the Shout
ders and down the front The V-shaped
sections in both the back and front had very
fat ruffles or slightly gathered bands of the
chiffon. with the lace and ribbon going
across the figure instead of up and down
like the fichu. The stock was transparent
one OF the white lace.
The sleeves were formed of ruffies match
ing those on the bodice and Were ar
ranged as to give the sleeves puff effect.
They ended the elbows above the long white
gloves.
The hat worn by her grace was a large.
round, French sailor of very pale. blush
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01

pointing to one side. and from under each
OF these another and similar tab running
the other way appeared. The tabs first
mentioned were cut with the band and
the others evidently must necessarily
have been inserted Each of these cross
Ing tabs were caught with crochet but
ton and both tabs and band were stitched
twice on all edges.
A light tan smooth felt hat with quite
q high crown and wide brim rolling lit
tie at the right and quite high at the left
was worn. 1t was pitched only slightly
over the brow and was trimmed by a fold
of dark velvet. matching the gown in
color, and a sweeping bird of paradise
plume, with head. in rich yellows and
browns, was seen fastened at the left
near the front Light tan glace gloves
were worn MARIE WELDON.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01

each side and three wider ones IN the
back Both the yoke and the body were
stitched four times around their lower
edges The fronts were stitched at the
edges and closed with three large button
molds matching those on the skirt. A small
collar shaped like those on mems coats
finished the neck, and was of plum-colored
velvet with a strapped edge of the cloth
stitched four times.
The sleeves were decidedly full quite
the fullest seen In some time coat, and
were laid In box plaits at the top and 10
small side plaits at the bottom. They end
ed half way from hands to elbows, and had
cuffs seven inches deep in the points of the
fiaring, star-pointed sort, stitched at the
upper edges to match the body.
The hat topping this costume was on the
English walking hat order but wider and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01

considerate Busy men will feel rested In
her presence. and as for her father and
mother they will be repaid in her sweet.
bright and useful girfhood for the sacri-
fees they made when she was in the school
room Many parents have to deny them
selves far more than their children dream
that the children may be educated. They
are always repaid In full by the children
who are developed In an all-around fashion.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01
The Luster d. opaIs.

Many gems. often without any apparent
cause. suddenly become cracked or scanned,
the damage being beyond repair. Opals,
known as the unluckiest stones. are SO
sensitive that their beauty is frequently
destroyed by their wearer's proximity to
an open fire. The luster of this stone is
caused by the presence OF myriads Of Httie
assures which defect the light into the
characteristic prismatic color of the gem
The tiniest of these assures Is likely at
any moment to destroy the stone.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01

gray chip, raised at the back and having
two folds of wide ana pale blue satin ribbon
brought from the crown cut over the back
brim and then under it, where they formed
a large fiat bow that faced the under back
of the brim. Satin ribbon arranged in close
loops over the bandeau filled up the space
between the hat and the soft, wayy brown
hair A wreath of pale pink rosebuds and
half-blown roses was set around the crown
fat on the brin, and around them, or.
rather, forming mat, were sprays OF rose
foliage in reddish brown autumnal tones.
Mrs. Belmont who was with her daugh-
ter was in black, as she is in mourning for
her sister, the Baroness Fonteniliat. There
were many black lace ruffles forming her
sleeves and small black toque topped her
dark hair.
Mrs Pierre Lorllard has a wonderful
evening coat of mandarin gauze and chiffon.
Mandarin gauze IS doubtless not the tech
meal name for the material. but it describes
the material well. The cloak is shaped like
a mandarns robe and the material is SINH
lar to that used in some of those coats In
its dragons and other designs done in, ex-
quisite colorings, dull in tone and largely
blue. This material Is not heavy ike the
rich satins. however, but the brocade seems
to be on a sort of gauze firm OF course
The coat closes on the side and mas sec
tions of plain dull blue chiffon down the
front at the sides. and about the bottom.
1t was worn the other evening at smart
9TH avenue restaurant over a pale blue chlI-
fon robe, sparingly pailleted in silver.
trailing princess robe with the neck cut
out a bit and squared.
:. X
The short sacque. 1t is now termed, is
being worn in Paris, and Mrs. John Jacob
Astor wore one in town one damp cool day.
1t was a dark green cloth and topped
slightly trailing skirt of green and white
shepherd plaid, the plaid or check being
bit larger than usual The skirt was cir
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01

Plated skirts are pushed to the wall, but
the tupe that fits closely about the hips and
flares out abundantly at the feet is receIv-
ing all the smiles of fortune Walking
suits have their skirts quite three inches
from the ground, but long jupes are in
fashion for everything except street frocks.
AS to colors, green in all shades Is favor
lite, with a new strong shade of blue as a
rival, and black, which has been out for
some time, and rich shade of plum color
are popular. This plum shade will be used
sparingiy. as it is becoming only to women
With perfect compilations and light colorng.
We have gone daft over empire effects
and in coats this vogue is indicated mostly
by yoke more like deep belt than any,
thing else. The other parts of the garment
follow fitted lines Not all women how
ever, can wear the empire styles. Indeed,
all the winter modes suggest the advisable
ity of studying your bad points and the
good ones in this wise will be added unto
you. If you have a bad back that doesn't
curve and take pretty lines. shun the prin-
cess gown as you would the plague. and If
you are short WASTED and-perish the
thought-dumpy, let Josephine and her en-
pire modes severely alone. Many of the en-
pire coats have their bodices trimmed with
fancy braid. A charming example Is of dark
green broadcloth ornamented with a wide
| open-meshed black braid put where the
skirt of the coat joins the short-waisted
bodice, and about the neck outside rolled
collar of dark fur. The sleeves have a few
| at the wrists. A double of large dull
! silver buttons fastens the jacket.
Very stunning Is a long empire coat
| made with stitched plaits from the Shout
derS and severely tailored In every respect.
Just under the bust Is stitched cloth strap
and faStens in front with large buttons.
Another attractive model of the same era