davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03

are chosen for the hat itself the neces-
sary brilliance is given in the decor
alton.
Birds and Wings Popular
For garniture, birds and plumes of
all sorts, wings, breasts, single feath-
ers and aigrettes are in order. Never
did the Audubon society have such
need to bestir itself If the Paris fash
ions are to be followed in this country
our feathered tribes are in the greatest
danger, for not a single new Paris
creation but has secured it's greatest
ornament from the kingdom of the
feathered tribes.
The birds are of the most brilliant
hues and iridescent shades when they
appear on the new hats. To use cont
monplace expression, their own moth
ers wouldn't know them," in many in
stances No doubt many of the birds
seen irradiated their native forests by
the same brilliant hues which have now
secured them a resting place on the
very latest in Partisan turbans, but it
of a very large number of naturally
rather commonplace birds have been
changed at fashions order.
The trimming on the new hats is in
most of the models comparatively sim
pie. Restraint in the amount and
variety of the trimming used is very
necessary to obtain the rather angular,
very smart and trig look now in or
der. The least failure in setting in a
wing, fitting brim or in the selection
of additional trimmings may make hat
and wearer look most absurd in a sea-
son where the saving grace of SOFT full
trimming and universally becoming
shapes is sacrificed to the striking and
whimsical.
Besides the self-trimming of velvet
taffeta, glace silk, satin galloon and
pompadour silk are used as trimming.
Few of the fall hats thus far shown
are trimmed with lace or ostrich feath-
ers. ,
A turban shape which promises to
be popular, but which is only beconi-
ing when worn over full, curled hair,
has rolling brim which goes UP into
a point above the crown on the left-side
of the front The toque is of green vel
vet, put ON over the shape perfectly
smooth. A band of sky blue galloon,
edges the brim on the outside, and
inside the brinn, around the crown,
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03
Some Smart Gowns for Travelling

The general effect of a travelling
gown should be that of smartness and
trimness. 1t should afford no lodging
place for dust or train CRIME. 1t should
be neither so dark as to show dust nor
so light as to catch the least fieck Of
SCOT. And the inexperienced shopper
will do well to approach the salesman
at good shop with the simple state
ment that she wants to see some of the
best fabrics for travelling gowns. In
response to this request she will find a
field practically without limit.
For general use the favorite fabrics
seem to be mohair and it's near rela-
tive, sicilienne CLOTH both of which shed
dust as duck sheds water. The mo-
hair of the hour is light, silky and
lustrous, and the English mohairs come
in the smartest of patterns-checks, en-
broidered dots and water stripes.
The best plaids do not show two
definite colors, such as black and white
or green and white, but through a de-
cided design of white with darker
color such as black, run threads, of in
deinable red, green, brown or yellow,
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03
Vivid Velvets ON Autumn Hats Are Stylish

tooue at the right side so that the vel
vet came down on the hair in a soft
fold. The brim was covered entirely
with a bandeau of feathers. Two
wings forming the sole trimming of the
toque were placed at the left side of
the back, slanting outward.
OF frivolous and festive nature are
some new hats sent over from Paris
for the very early fall, which will prob
ably be greatly admired by young girls.
They are a combination of the ever
popular lingerie hat OF this summer
with the dominating velvet of the
autumn. Except that they are much
smaller than most of the lingerie hats,
they might almost give rise to the sus-
picion that the owners of lingerie hats
had simply covered the crowns over
with velvet.
These are the only hats thus far
seen which have any lace trimming.
They are full and soft in the crown and
have brims of gathered lace ruffles,
gathered taffeta or the plain velvet.
Their principal distinction, however, is
their very full soft crown and the mar
row curved brim, which make the hats
look like picturesque bonnets. They
are of all colored velvets, yellow, pink
and blue, and are trimmed with roses
in brilliant colors.
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03

so fine, indeed, that one must examine
the cloth very closely to determine the
actual coloring. These make excellent
fabrics for travelling gowns.
A new offering in a silk and wool
mixture, despite its up-to-date name,
is nothing more or less than the old
fashioned gloria, which, by the way, is
an economical investment. 1t shows
striking plaids. softened by hair lines,
and is very wide, cutting to excellent
advantage when the circular skirt Is
desired. Very few plain or one-tone
cloths are offered for travelling raiment
Mixed goods are infinitely more popular
and nearly everything is waterproofed.
from serges to mohair and silk.
The smartest serges show the SAINT,
plaids, described in the English mo-
hairs, and the English tweeds and suit
ings include loose-weave homespuns In
Scotch mixtures, which, though they
look very substantial, in reality are
light in weight and just the thing for
the loose coat suits that so many
slender girls prefer to the tight-ftting
bolero.
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03

MERICAN milliners declare that
N the hats for the fall and winter
which will find favor in fashions
eye are to be small and turned up with
that peculiar tilt which appeared in
the spring and to which many Amer
lean women have as yet refused to sub
nit.
And yet here are the very latest
things from Paris in the way of models
and photographs of the new millinery.
They show large proportion of rather
big picture hats.
1t is true they are not the old picture
hats with the old, ever becoming grace
full, flowing lines which every woman
could wear and which sat we'll on every
style of hair dressing. The new hats,
even when large and stately in effect,
have trig, stiff air that distinctly
demonstrates their relationship to the
small, peeky little hats, which like
those of the last spring, sit well up and
well forward on the head.
The new hats, whether large or small,
will be set on the head at such an an
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03
How He Knew 1t Was Bargain Day

The passenger looked skeptical.
That's just a coincidence" he said.
Nevertheless he kept an eye on the
women of excessive avoirdupois and
found that all of them really did leave
the car at certain point and go plod-
ding across the street toward a de-
partment store. Presently he bor-
rowed newspaper from another pas
senger of slender proportions and
looked through the advertisements. At
the top Of an illustrated page he read
To-day only. Great reduction.
White lawn waists, sizes AZ to so. Be
coming styles for stout figures. Worth
So to $4 today soc to ST.
He read the paragraph aloud. The
conductor grinned.
Didn't 1 tell your he said. TITS
surer than the ground hog and the
goose bone"
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03
CHz1DW * .LACE CONN.,

outlined in front with a narrow fold of
rose pink velvet. There is a high
draped girdle with long sash ends in
back of ivory white satin. This same
model can be copied in black and in
pale shades, with lace dyed the color
of the voile, but as many people object
to dyed lace it has also been made up
with the lace in the ecru shade.
Lace coats are most attractive to
wear with thin or heavy gowns-that is,
comparatively heavy, They are unlined
or lined, as the case may be, but the
fad is to have them unlined. Both the
short bolero and the long coat are fash
ionable and the very long ones are used
as evening coats as well, but then, of
course, are lined with silk or satin.
Decidedly novel is the coat intended
to be worn over lightweight citron
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03

there is drapery of chenille glace silk.
brim of the toque curves very far
down, is a soft, puffy fancy feather OF
blue, from which rises a blue aigrette,
The aigrette points toward the back, as
do almost all this seasons feathers.
An exception to this rue is shown in
the illustration, which is that of an old
gold velvet hat trimmed with pompa-
dour ribbon. The ribbon is used in a
large bow, under the left side and to
the back of the brim. 1t is also Law
ishly used on top of the hat in a bow,
which goes across the left side, and
whose loops hang out over the back of
the hat. The ribbon is an exceedingly
handsome one, on a gold ground, with
raised velvet figures of pale blue, cream
and pink. At the very middle of the
back of the hat fancy black and blue
feather is placed, from which rises an
exceedingly large and handsome blue
aigrette.
A straight brimmed sailor shape, sit
ting we'll up off the head at the back
the brim, which is a trifle wider than
on the back, was made of tobacco col
ored velvet. Pleated taffeta trimming
of the same shade was laid fiat over
the brim and stitched down at intervals
in straight lines reaching from the
crown to within about three inches of
the edge of the brim. A large blue
and green bird with huge spreading
tail was fastened on the left side so
that it's tail extended over the back
brim and stood up far beyond the
crown. A satin rosette filled in the
space under the brim. An exquisite
picture hat of mole colored velvet had
a very large brim and soft draped
crown. The crown was high and rather
large, being much higher on the right
side. The brim, very wide and shaped
gracefully, was without trimming, the
velvet being put on plain. The only
trimming on the hat was a huge pink
bird at the left side Of the front, whose
head was fastened to the edge of the
brim and whose wings and tail stood
up over the left side of the crown.
An exceedingly attractive toque of
rather softer shape than most of those
seen this season was of cherry colored
velvet. The crown was made of soft
folds of the velvet. very full, and pulled
over the narrow rounded brim of the
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03

the tea gown or evening wrap order,
at present it is the fad to have this
style of garment whep it is becoming.
If it is not becoming then it is unfash-
ionable and the tight fitting coat must
needs be substituted.
Although lace gowns of all kinds are
immensely the fad at the moment, there
are so many pattern robes of lace Of
fered for sale at low price as to make
one rather doubt whether they will
continue fashionable for many months.
The white net gown with lace applique
are sold for the moment at surprisingly
low prices and are made UP both for af-
ternoon and evening wear. Very few
of these gowns that are bargains are
full enough to be becoming, and 1t is
necessary to have an underskirt OF
plated net or chiffon to make them look
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03
CZOZHGC1l7V W7ZE EACE conf

we'll. The most effective are made over
an accordion plated chiffon under
gown.
Renaissance, Cluny and guipure laces
are all very smart, while Valenciennes
was never more in favor than at the
present moment. Real Valenciennes lace
is always very expensive, whether in
flounces or in the allover net, but VAL
enciennes is a lace that can be imi-
tated very satisfactorily, and the imita-
tions are most effective. 1t is cool
looking lace and shows to exceptional
advantage when made up with lace OF
another kind. Irish point, so much
heavier than Valenciennes, is used in
bands of entire deux or in applique fig
ures and helps to make a gown look
very smart and becoming.
Flounced skirts, with which are worn
lace coats, are charming. The all-over
net on which the flounces are sewed, or
the plain net or the chiffon, as the case
may be, with two, three or four flounces
of lace, are very attractive. The net
coat worn with these comes down to
meet the upper flounce.
A very picturesque frock has a ruff
fled skirt-narrow ruffles of lace sewed
on net-and over this is worn three
quarter coat that is cut away at the
sides and shows the ruffled skirt to
great advantage. This coat hangs
loose from the shoulders in front and
at the same time outlines the figure.
1t has wide sleeves and underneath are
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03

a white lace coat with black skirt. A
bolero of white lace on black dress,
if a woman has good enough figure to
carry it off well, is always smart and
effective, but if the figure is not all
that may be desired, then it is just as
well to have the lace in black also, thus
eliminating the sharp contrast outlin-
ing the figure.
1t is astonishing how many of the half
fitting coats fit very well. They are all
more or less shaped in at the waist
line at the back and sides, and this
gives the smart effect that is infinitely
more becoming than when they hang
straight from the shoulders. On the
other hand, the long coat of lace that
hangs straight provided it is wide
enough around the lower part, is i'm
mensely smart, and although it is on
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03

colored cloth costume made in princesse
design. The coat is cut off like mans
cutaway coat, fits tight i'll the back and
at the sides, and is held together at the
bust with a rosette of black satin rib
bon. 1t is cut in low neck effect, filled
in with a guimpe of lace and lingerie,
and there is a wide collar of embroid-
cred satin outlining the guimpe. The
sleeves are shirred to the elbow, with a
turned back cuff of embroidered satin,
and with the frilled sleeve that is so
fashionable at present reaching just be-
low the elbow.
Black lace coats are to be very
smart next winter, and are also worn
now with black chiffon gowns. The
chiffon and lace combine extremely well
and often when it is desired to have
a sharp contrast the fashion is to wear
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03

gle as to require the most elaborate
hair dressing. No careless, flowing
locks should be in evidence under theil
stiff, piquantly curved brims. Neither
will a Quaker primness be in order
The locks of the fashionable damse
with not a hair out of place, while al
the same time an immense amount OF
curls, waves and complicated plaits
will be necessary to make the hats be-
by the odd tilt at which they will be
worn.
One of the most dashing of the new
shapes is perfectly round, having a
brim the same width on every side and
very small crown of a little more
than medium height. The brim is
slanted up on the left side, and the hat
is worn tilted slightly forward, al
though not as exaggeratedly so as was
the case with the spring and summer
hats. All the trimming on this hat is
under the left side and at the back, eX-
cept that there is a twist of velvet
around the crown, fastening at the left
side in a knot, in which is thrust a
bird of paradise wing. The hat Itself
is made of dark green moire velvet,
put on perfectly plain, and is trimmed
with the green velvet. The bird OF
paradise is in violet tulle. The whole
effect is exceedingly rich in color effect,
but severe in outline. This, as far as
can yet be determined, seems to be
the characteristic of the coming sea-
sons millinery.
Two things are evident. 1t is to be I,
season of velvets and it is to be a sea-
son of colors. The new hats fairly riot
in color, and among all those sent over
either in models or photographs,
whether they come from Paris, London
or Vienna, there is scarcely black one
to be found and there are none at all
without velvet for foundation or garni-
ture.
The most brilliant tones in the most
expensive of velvets of both plain and
fancy weave are shown in the latest
importations. Moire velvet, chiffon
velvet and the plain silk velvet are
equally popular. and the colors run the
gamut from wine color to palest pink,
from rose to gray and from cream to
deep gold. Among the more sober hues
are mole color tobacco brown and
green, but when these quieter shades
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03

sleeves of pleated chiffon, which fali
back when the arm is lifted.
With all these gowns it is the fashion
to have touch of color in the belt or
in the rosettes, where the coat is fas-
tened in front. Rosettes and sash ends
add greatly to the beauty of any of the
costumes, and either the palest OF
colors or black velvet is thought the
smartest combination.
The princess gowns of lace when well
made are very becoming, but If badly
made are most unbecoming. Expensive
qualities of lace should really be used
for this style, as Of course such gown
must needs be extremity costly. A
charming model, although not especial
ly new, is of heavy lace in the princess
style, finished with fiounce of rather
| lighter lace and with a yoke and un-
dersleeves of the lighter lace also.
Across the front of this gown the lace
is draped giving it much softer look
than when a tight fitting princess is
chosen.
A tight fitting princess gown is
very trying model for any one who has
not an absolutely faultless figure, but
the softening Of the lines by the drap-
ing of the lace makes a wonderful i'm
provement. Among the new designs Is
a princess gown with a deep yoke of
another sort of lace. This again is
trying model, and yet is to be fashiona-
BILE and so must needs be mentioned.
In order to make the cost of these
gowns even greater than when only real
lace is used it is thought smart to have
embroidery on the lace-the pattern of
the lace outlined around the foot Of the
skirt, down the front and around the
yoke. 1t adds to the expense and. of
course, adds to the effect, but to all
real lace lovers the beauty of the mate
rial appeals so strongly that it seems
a mistake to add anything else to 1t
and by so doing destroy the original
work.
Lace on Cloth
| Lace as trimming Is not going to be
questionable for many long month
| to come. 1t VIII be seen again this
winter on cloth gowns. it will be used
on satin and silk and, of course on all
thinner materials. The newest cloth
gowns that are brought out show an
immense amount of network, which is
initiated in the heavier laces as well.
These have very much the same effect
and are dyed the precise shade of the
cloth.
White and black gowns will be very
fashionable, but for time-at all
events until into the winter-will be
much more used for the house than for
the street Black gowns with white lace
and white gowns with black lace are
in the nature of comparative novelties,
for we have had long season of the
all one color scheme that by this time
is, of course, getting on. 1t does not
do for any one fashion to stay in more
than a certain length of time.
Los Angeles herald., 1905-09-03

/lT WONDER which it is today"
said the conductor. "Corsets or
shirt waists?"
wonder which is what?" murmured
the platform passenger, confusedly.
"The bargains" was the reply.
There's a big sale of women's gar
ments, extra large size. advertised at
rock bottom prices at some store to-
day.
Il can tell by the number of fat
women aboard. There are sixteen of
them. 1 counted the last time I came
through the car. That's a sign that
you can always bank on. Just as sure
as you see squad of fat women
hustling down town at this time of the
morning just so surely you will find
in the daily papers an advertisement
to the effect that 1000 No. As shirt
waists or somethiag like that will be
sold below manlfaeturers cost
The Fairmont West Virginian. (Fairmont, W. Va.) 1904-1914, 1905-02-22
Mr.. GRuNskY ALSO
GOT $3.50 TN FEES
Canal Commissioner First Refused
and Then Accepted Payments s
From Panama Railroad.

WASHINGTON, D. e., Feb. 22.-s
Members Of the House Committee
on Interstate and Foreign Commerce
were surprised to learn from further
testimony that c. E. Grunsky, Of the
Panama Canal Commission, a director
of the Panama Railroad did, after5ai
accept fess from the ROAD tor attend
ing meetings Of the board. 1 3
A statement byaEs Al Dfake, Vice
president of the railroad, placeddMr.
Grunsky in the same position as 9th.
er members OF the commission TAX
ing the fees. This statement showed
that Rear Admiral Walker, MI. Grrtunsj
sky anaEMr. HarrodH had each 3receiysi
ed s2sos ffof4attehatng ten meetings;
Of the b5ard-Mt. Harrow SIPS for!
five meetings and MI. Parsons, Who
is a member Of the executive COM
mitteesRsso5s for seven board meet:
ings and ten committee meetings.
Chairman Hepburn last Saturday.
received Sletter from Mi: Grunskys,,ss
which was read to the committee. ItS
inclosed without comment a copy of
q letter written to Mr.. Drake on Sep
TENDER IS, 1904, returning the fee
paid him for attending the directors,
meeting of July g. This letter to-
Mr. Drake contained the following
statement: 3aF iB@ S
THE Presidents letter makes our
services on the board Of directors az
part Of our official duties, for which
We are otherwise compensated
cannot constitute the attendance fee as
other than compensation, and there
fore must decline to accept such fee
for attendance at meetings.
The Fairmont West Virginian. (Fairmont, W. Va.) 1904-1914, 1905-02-22

Mrs. Montella Smith is very iii al
this writing.
Miss Delphia Faucet is on tho sicl,
list.
We are glad to learn that N. IS. vii,
son Is able to be out again!
Anna, the little daughter Of Mr..
and Mrs. Thomas SatterHeld, is nj
with grippe at this writing.
Another house has been bought in
Bellylew by Mr., William Prickett.
MI. James Mason and wife Mere
called to Wadestown recently on ac.
count Of the illness Of one! Of Mr.. Ma.
sons cousins.
Miss Ella Patman, the Barnstown
school teacher, and her sister and
mother have moved into Beilvlew.
Mr.. I: s. Merriaeld is improving
slowly.
We are glad TO learn that Mr.. T. F.
Wilson, who has been on the sick
list fer some time, will soon be able
to return to work again.
We are glad to. say that the En-.
worth Leagne at Barnstown is pro.
crossing nicely under the manage.
ment Of Mr.. Q. F. Nease.
MI. Glen Satterfeld was calling on
friends near Rivesvi!le Monday.
MIS-. Phil King Is very sick at this
writing.
MI and Mrs. William Delaney and
i''oe daughter, Of Wades:own, were
calling on their daughter, Mrs. Clara
Smith, recently
The Fairmont West Virginian. (Fairmont, W. Va.) 1904-1914, 1905-02-22

aasiisss mems lunch at Murphy's
1astaurant frcms11sA.. n to 1 P. NJ.
The Fairmont West Virginian. (Fairmont, W. Va.) 1904-1914, 1905-02-22
The Nations Problems.

The Nations Problems.
The men who founded this nation
had to deal with theories of govern.
ment and the fundamental principles
Of free institutions. We are now
concerned with a different set Of
questions, for the Republic has been
firmly established, Its principles thor
oughly tested and fully approved. To
merely political issues have succeed
ed those Of grave social and econom.
ic Importance, the solution Of which
demands the best efforts OF the best
men. We have a right TO expect that
a wise and leading part in the effort
to attain this solution will be taken
by those who have been exceptional.
ly blessed in the matter of obtaining
an education. That a COLLECT graduate
is but a poor creature who does not
feel when he has left college that he
has received something for which
he owes a return. What he thus owes
he can as a rule only pay by the way
he bears himself throughout life. 1t
is but occasionally that q college grad.
uate can do much outright for his al.
ma mater; he can best repay her by
giving a life that will reflect credit
upon her. by SO carrying himself as a
citizen that men shall see that the
years spent in training him have not
been wasted. The educated man is
entitled to no special privilege, save
the inestlmable privilege Of trying to
show that his education enables him
to take the lead in striving to guide
Ills fellows Alright in the difficult task
which is set to us Of the twentieth
century. The problems before us to-
day are very complex, and are widely
different from those which the men
OF Washington's generation had to
face; but we can overcome them only,
If We approach them in the spirit
which Washington and Washington's
great supporters brought to bear up,
on the problems of their day-the
spirit of sanity and courage, the spirit
which combines hard common sense
with the loftiest ldealism.