davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times., 1905-06-27
Ihe Button-lis Uses.

A recently imported princess dress is
trimmed with no less than fifty dozens
of buttons. The dress is of apricot
taffeta, and the buttons, which are
small, are covered with mardore vel
vet.
One new tailor rig, that was designed
in London, is of blue mixture. the
fared skirt buttoned down the center
front The Eton-like jacket is also
buttoned down the front In this in
stance the buttons are covered with
taffeta
There are, however, no cut-and-dried
rules to regulate the use of the button
Iiny ones are put on in rows anywhere
to acccntuate cores or trimmings, while
large ones are just the thing, either
single or in threes, TO appear to hold
down panels or any empiecements
And there's as much variety in the
buttons as in the way of using them
For cloth costumes they are covered
with velvet or silk, while for walking
suits leather may serve.
For afternoon and evening wear
there's no limit. There are hand-paint-
ed silk ones to represent Dresden china
and there are mary covered with lace
Or a tiny motif In real lace is applied
to button covered with silk.
Tnen there are the ieweIed buttons of
various sorts, some of them set in
gold rirns.-Philadelpti Record
The Washington times., 1905-06-27
VGits Are Short
In the front and Long in Back

Mourning wells are now being worn
short in front. the drapery extending
in the back to below the waist line.
Time was when all wells used for first
mourning reached below the knee in
hem of the gown. Time was. too, when
mourrin- wells held to the classic and
almost shapeless folds Of the drapery of
the ancients. but modern morning is
anything but doieful IN line, the color
being the only token that the wearer
Is clad in garments representing grief.
For Young Girls.
a half long IS worn as immediate mourn
ing. This veil is usually of silk nun 8
yelling. draped to below the chin in
front. but falls in folds behind the hat
After the first three months this veil
Is put aside for a short one of point
d'esprit or other net with a mourning
border
Hats for young girls to be worn with
smart and Jaunty little polo seems an
odd sort of mourning headgear. yet it
is shown in heavy peau de sole with duJl
Jet a1gretteS, aEG even the Somber ma
ture of its Trimming takes but little
from its cheerful aspect Then there
are numbers Of modified tricornes, mush-
room shapes with black silk roses. and
the little round duchesse bonnets look
ing like mothers" Of the smaller polo
shapes.
All these are SHOWN in peau de sole
black crepe and dull black straw, and
are meant to be worn with wells
Widows have large assortment of
hafs and bonnets from which to select
The Washington times., 1905-06-27
Drunkenness A
TERRIBLE DISEASE

In every large city the mission super
intendents are brought closely into con
tact with the terrible results OF drunk
enness, and realize what a fearful curse
1t is TO humanity. w. c. McMichaeI
superintendent of the Peoples Mission
in Washington, says: Il am superir-
tendent OF the Peoples Mission. a
recognized Christian organiza tor that
is doing a world of good. One of our
people who had been drinking a pint of
whfskey day for a great many years
was put on Orrine. and j am happv to
say that a cure was effected within ten
da''s from the time the first dose was
given. and he is now restored to perfect
sobriety. | have no way to thank YOU
for the valuable specific for this terrible
disease. drunkenness.
Orrine No. l is given secretly in anv
food or drink, while No. is for those
who are willing to be cured Either
form is 81 per package. Orrfne is a
guaranteed cure for the liquor habit
and is sold and recommended by
AFFLECK,S DRUG STORE. 1920 pa -.
SIMMS, 18th st. and N. Y Ave
WILLIAMS. 9t, and + Sts
WELLER S. 755 Sth st. s. e
DAYS. 18th and p SITS.
HENRY EVANS. 922-24 ST.
r. p. WELLER. Aqueduct Bridge Dr,,
Gtore
e. S. LEADBEATER & SONS. Alexandria
The Washington times., 1905-06-27
BEAD FRINGES
Pretty Summer WoIk-Easily Fashion
ed and Rather Decorative.

Rcadwork shades for candles and
lamps are one of the prettiest decora-
tions for summer cottages on the mar
ket, and they are practicable and most
attractive for hail and table lamps and
bedroom candles.
The CLINT from the tiny fringe of glass
globules as it catches the light makes
a pretty picture, and the effect is most
cheerful, whether the whole shade or
only the fringe Is made from, beads.
Nothing could be simpler than string
ing one bead after another on two and
one-half-inch lengths and then sewing
them to a round wire frame covered
with tape for foundation, which makes
the plain fringe. They may be in red,
blue or any color desired, and of any
size, large, small or graduated.
Beads that make the most attractive
shades, that have the most sparkle, are
the lined styles-clear glass with a touch
OF color at the top and bottom where
the head Is pierced.
The dtamond-shape fringe Is more
complicated, and can be made elaborate
with a variety of different colored beads
worked into the pattern
One way 20 make this design is to
start at the wire foundation with three
beads strung on one thread, each string
being separate piece at the beginning
Two needles must pass through fourth
bead of the same color, or q different
shade if a color design is to be worked
out Have the threads separate again,
three beads being caught on either
strand and both catching fourth one
together. Continue this until the pat
tern is the desired size.
To carry out the diamond shape in
the loose ends begin where the pointed
shape ends the row. Run q thread
through the last little bead and string
on enough to hang down to the longest
point Of the figure and end it by care
fully knotting over the last bead. The
with each little figure in the diamonq.
Another way, and, perhaps, en- easier
one, is to take one thread all the way
round the wire, stringing first three
beads and then one Of different color,
ter three again: and take stitch in
the foundation. Repeat until there Is a
zigzag row all the way around. Next
slip the needle through the bead that
comes to little point and begin an
other in the same way, leaving a long
thread hanging that is later to be
strung with beads for finishing the
fringe. AT equal intervals leave a
thread hanging at the end as at the be-
ginning, instead of going ali the way
around.
The third row is started In the first
point Of the second and the fourth done
in The same way, each one growing
shorter until the last is only a tiny
point. Thread the. ends and the fringe
is complete.
To make frames for the shades fine
wire should be used to make 1t light
and serviceable.
For the novice in bead making the
easiest plan is to string the beads on
single wire patterns and then put,them
together in a whole and sew on the
fringe
The Washington times., 1905-06-27
THE HOME ITS PROBLEMS 14ND ITS INTERESTS
COTTON COVERS FOR THE
FURNITURE IN THE SUMNER

Change is essential to every one. and
if they cannot get It in the warm season
by going out of town they should do all
that they can to have variety at home.
1t not only rests the mind, but it ac-
tually refreshes, and that is why any
effort put into fixing a city house of
apartment for the summer is more than
worth while
One of the most noticeable and peas
ant changes is gained through covering 6
the furniture with q figured cotton. and
the expense of this after the first season
is absolutely nothing at all The set
VIII require only one laundering a sea-
son, and If this is carefully done and the
material is a good quality, the colors
Will hold perfectly. A set should last
easily for three seasons, and sometimes
four
When money is no object the covers
may be made to order, and. indeed,
this is by no means expensive. Never
theless, there is a great saving in max
ing ones own, and contrary to the gen
eral idea the work is not hard. It is
all done on machine, and cutting the
pattern, which is the fussiest thing to
be done. is not hard for woman who
knows anything of sewing.
Cutting Pattern
The best way to do this is to take a
large piece of brown paper and, laying
it over the seat, cut that first. 1t is
easier to make the pattern the exact
size than to try to allow seams in the
paper. That can be done afterward in
the cloth, and care must be taken not
to forget it. After the seat pin another
piece of paper on the back OF the chair
and cut that to At. IF the chair is very
thick through the back another side
piece as it were. must be cut to iofn
them Otherwise the cover will be found
too small. as the thickness of the back
viii take up some. TWO back pieces
are required. one for the front and one
for he back II the chair has arms
cut those separate by simply laying a
piece of paper across in one long strip.
Great care should be taken that it is
wide enough to join TO the back cover
otherwise the gap will SPOIL the entire
effect.
When it comes to cutting the material
shrinking wren being washed must be
considered. Very wide seams must be
allowed, and 1t must not be forgotten
The Washington times., 1905-06-27

that all the covers must pe made so that
they slip on easily to fastell with tapes
II they are tacked ed. on = they are not 81
Careful makers bind all the seams with
tape of a color contained in the design.
but this is quite fussy and ADDS q
triffe to the expense. An equally nice
finish is made by French scanning. max
ing the first run on the wrong side so
that the last seam comes on the right
side This makes a cordlike edge that,
washes well and holds the shape of the
cover All fasteninss to hold the dif-
ferent corners together should be made
with tapes. coIored rather than white
When cutting If the design is of a type
be taken that in all the pieces it is going
the same way, preferably up.
French Cretonne.
One of the most serviceable materials
for coverings is French cretonne The
imported material holds it's colors better
than the domestic and for that reason is
far more economical in the end. al
though 1t costs more at first There
are frequently sales when a 75-cent
quality may be had for 81 cents, or even
less. Denim is good and washes well.
Figured burlaps are too sleazy and
loosely woven either to wash or to hold
their shape.
The lowered effects are the prettiest
pale greens. as well as yeilows, are
cool in effect and pleasing to the eye
Whatever design is selected should be
used exclusively, for the designs are
very striking and more than one is dis
cordant. If any cushions are used it
is better to cover them in plain coIors
OF the same tones as those which ap-
pear in the design.
"A bachelor girl who spends her sum-
mers In town completely transforms her
rooms each season. The heavy mahog-
any chairs covered in dull red through
the winter are hidden under cretonne
coverings of cool figured blue and green
The window curtains are taken down
that every breath of air may enter
Heavy rugs are taken up and In their
place are others Of iute combining the
same colors that appear in the covers
corner window seat is draped with
cretonne, and all the cushions are done
over in the same. Two steamer chairs
offer comfort and GOODNESS to informal
visitors, and high on shelf Is an cleo
tic fan that sweeps the place with cool
ing breezes when the air outside fails.
This particular woman absolutely re-
fuses to go away in the summer.
get change enough right here, and
am too comfortable to move" she de-
clares.
The Washington times., 1905-06-27
LIST or ELIGIBLES
Last Sundays List of Puzzles Included
Only the Eigibles.

The list of names which was published
on Che Puzzle Page of the Washington
Sunday T:::oes last Sunday contained
only the names of those who are still
eligible Tor the Puzzle Contest. Those
names which have been dropped from
the card-fndex system. either because of
failure on the part of the contestant to
send in any answer to a r,lzzle, or be-
cause of actcal failure in the working of
a puzzle. were omitted from that list.
Should contestant lind that her
name was published on last Sundays
list of eligibles. in spite of the fact that
1t was published the week before, June
is. in the lisc Of the failures. she NAV
assume that her name vas incorrectI,
published on the List Of Failures. and
has therefore Keen reinstated and pub-
Hshed again In the list of those still
eligible.
The Washington Sunday Times will be
pleased 10 correct any errors possible,
but en- not reinstate any contestant who
falls to sign her name to her answer.
does not send in an answer, or neS|ects
&c mail her answer within the allotted
tine limit.
The Washington times., 1905-06-27

their early mourning headgear Touue
shapes of crepe can be worn from the
very first OF course. the veil Is worn
over the face for the first three months,
after which 1t is draped behind the bon
net or hat Bonnets are rarely worn
except by Older women. the exception
to this rule is an English style decree
ing. a small pointed bonnet usually
trimmed heavily with dull jet beads.
Tnis is worn after the first year of
mourning, with a veil of silk nuns veil
Ing draped in the back and falling to
below the waist White chiffon strings
tying beneath the chin in a soft bow.
are added TO this arrangement Of veil
and bonnet
Very smart is a rather wide toque of
crepe with Veil draped in a wide box
pieat. which may be worn over one
shoulder OF allowed to fall straight be-
is to be worn after six NOR chs or
year. The hem of the crepe veil Is not
less than foot in depth.
For Immediate Mourning.
Wells of bombazine having deep bor-
GERS of silk are also Shown for
widows immediate mourning These
are arranged to fall to the corsage iu
front and below the hip at either side
eseo.ed crepe worn during the second
year OF mourning This is Sometimes a
tricorne. and again a pointeS toque
shape, and tc match it there is ia face
border of the crepe This is worn with
black gown and is decidedly striking.
While crepe is still the fashionable
II Mourning material both fCr gowns.
'Veiis. and hats, -ponderous wells ere no
ienger seen, and all the effects are as
hgnt weight in appearance as possible.
even those to be used for immedia ate
mourning.
The Washington times., 1905-06-27
They NeUez Quarreled.

1t is an Englishman speaking IN the
interest OF woman suffrage who tells
the following story to show his appre-
ciation OF the good qualities of women.
minister. in an address to the mem
hers of his congregation, asked all the
women who had never quarreled with
their husbands to rise. Every woman
in the house remained seated.
Now" said the minister, "'let all the
men who have never quarrelled with
their wives stand" Thereupon ten
men. each wearing an expression of
conscious righteousness, n look say
ing plainly, 1T is Eve who has caused
all my troubles" stood to receive the
minister's blessing.
But, contrary to their expectations. a
stern expression stole over his face,
and. raising his eyes upward. he prayed
soiemnly:
20, Lord. have mercy upon these ten
liars
The Washington times., 1905-06-27
PLAIN AND FANCY STOCKS
So WORN WITH DIFFERENT GOWNS

very marked point right in the center
of the front Her sister with the long
and slender type of features should, on
the contrary, select the plain round
band, and the thinner the face the
higher and better setting the colla;
must be, if she is to make the most
of whatever measure OF good looks may
be hers. Some leaders of the mode on
the other side ef the Atlantic who are
OF this latter type are reviving that
little lift to the collar right under the
ears and finishing the back with the
perkiest of outstanding ends. With the
style, needless to say, the hair would
better be dressed high, or If worn low,
a net must be deftly pinned around the
low knot on the neck.
The Washington times., 1905-06-27

The matter of neck dressings is a very
Important one in these days, and never
has there been time when taste viii
and ingenuity were at such Il premium
for the production OF novelties where
with to deck the summer girls throat
It has become quite u reshiona bic fad
to make ones own neck dressings iii
these days, and the most modish piazza
work for the summer resort viii doubt
less be the fashioning of dainty collars
and stocks and cravats in all sorts of
materials and with all the fancy
stitches, lace stitches, drawn wcrk
Mexican and Madeira work, with as
many more as can be iearred or copied
for their better adornnent
With the plainly tailored shirt waist
that accompanies the snart tailor made
skirt Or suit the collar and crayat Of
linen. more or less decorated with plain
or fancy stitches. is the correct thing
The shape and the fit IS all in all In
these. ard one must find out by careful
experiment just exactly what form Of
collar best suits the face and the type
Of features, and stick determinedly to
this.
Stiff Linen in Paris.
The Parisiennes are indulging in an
and cuffs. and they are wearing them
with all but the dressiest of frocks But
with their characteristic touch they are
making even the plainest and stifest IT
these take on some air of elaboration
The sets are finished with hemstitched
hens instead of machine stitching
kranch knots. embroidered polka dots
little sprays Of flowers done in raised
blind work, as we!l as the excessively
popular broderie anglaise. or English
eyeiet embroidery. are ali called upon
to mitigate the severe piainness of this
style
There arc two very distinct styles
TO the summer neckwear. There are the
stocks. finished with either rabat or a
bow. which demand some little starch in
their laundering to preserve the stiff
finish, and there are the bands that it
In better with the prevailing mode
souple. and which must rely upon those
little rods of featlherbone for their stay
Ing In shape.
Featherbone Foundations Useful
Those featherbone foundations, that
are really shaped collars of soft and
sheer featIaerbone, and which one can
purchase at any notion counter in a de-
lightful variety of shapes, are boon To
the girl who desires to have large
number of different neck dressings with
out the labor of sewing the sustaining
little rods into every one of them. At
the best shops, of course, all of the
stocks and collars are SO supplied in the
making, but where one fashions ones
own the ready made foundation will
prove quite an acquisition.
And here the need Of finding the right |
shape can readily be flied, for one can
try and determine just what shape is /,
the most becoming. Then the collars |
can be adjusted to this with any num- |
Der of those dainty little fancy pins |
that are such rage at present. and |,
one can have the comforting conscious
ness that the neck dressing Is ever IN |
order and the most becoming that could |
possibly be desired
Consider the Contour of the Face.
One might say something anent the |
style and fit of the fashionable Collars
and their wearers. The girl with the |
round and plump face would better
select the foundation collar that has a
The Washington times., 1905-06-27

The
o
rolled
yellow
lined inside with
he
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1905-11-24
CUNHA'S
BOUGAINVILLEA
REASONS THAT HE HAD
FOR TRIMMING TREE WHICH Is
PRIDE OF MERCHANT STREET.

Yes" said Father Cunha as he
superintendent operations while a num-
Der of men hacked at his bouganvillea
tree on Merchant street this morning.
"fire-wood is getting so dear that I'm
killing three birds with one stone. I'm
getting in the winters supply of wood
and I'm trimming the tree so that it
will be more beautiful than ever when
it grows out. Then there's another
reason. There are a lot of pretty girls
in the printing Office upstairs and the
boughs of the tree prevented the young
men from seeing them. When l was a
young man 1 liked to look at pretty
girls but that's years and years ago
However, I'm not mean and l want to
see everyone enjoying themselves
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1905-11-24
REYER BEGAN
DISCHARGING TODAY
FRENCH CAPTAIN EVIDENTLY
GOT TIRED OF WAITING FOR
CLAIMS TO BE COMPROMISED.

The French ship Ernest Reyer began
discharging- coal this morning. She
has been idle i'm port since October "a
so Captain Dieulangard decided that
he would not waste any more time
waiting for a compromise of the sal
wage claims against his vessel.
1t was at first thought when she be-
gan to discharge that the salvage
claims had been adjusted but such
does not prove to be the case. The
claims of the tug Fearless and the
Inter-Island Company are still unset
tied. 1t is probable that the people
representing those interests will slap
libels on the ship, now that the cargo
is being discharged. 1t is not unlike
ly that this method of bringing the
matter into the courts may have been
taken by the master of the French YES
sell
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1905-11-24
BAD FOR SENATOR sMooT.

WASHINGTON, November 7.-Evi-
dence said to be very damaging to the
case of Senator Reed Smoot of Utah is
to be given to the Senate Committee
on Privileges and Elections as soon as
Congress opens. 1t will be presented
in face of the fact that both sides to
the controversy declared that all the
testimony they had to offer had been
given and that the members of the
committee believed they could consider
1t and turn in report prior to the
Christmas recess.
Interests inimical to the Smoot cause
have been making Investigations dur
fng the summer and as a result the al
ready long drawn-out case will see n
renewal of committee activities before
the waiting Senate gets a chance to
tell the Utah man to go or to stay.
Senator Julius Caesar Burrows of
Michigan, chairman of the COMMITTEES
which has the Mormon Senator's case
in hearing, has returned TO Washing
ton and it is known that he expects to
ask his fellow-committee members to
listen to more testimony, which. if the
report is not erroneous, will be more
highly spiced than any of the ingre-
dents of the evidence set before the
members last winter.
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1905-11-24
Two More
HatteFS
Are Here
SLEUTHS OF THE PINKERTON
VARIETY ARE NOW WORKING
IN HONOLULU ALONG CERTAIN
LINES.
Hist
LINES.

Hist!
Place your fingers on your lips and
walk on your tip-toes!
There are two more Hatters in town
from the Pinkerton agency and they
are detecting things-Perhaps.
The memory of Halter the famous
Pinkerton man who was employed by
a Parsonage is still fragrant in the
memory of Honolulu. He came down,
all unannounced of course, and while
in the pay of the Parsonage, did sneak
work round Honolulu. He submitted a
report, which, for some reason or 9TH
er, has ever been suppressed, and as a
result of his very expensive stay, one
unfortunate Chinaman was convicted.
Each and every other of his cases fell
fiat and the accused were acquitted by
jury.
But now we have two new Hatters.
Their name is not Halter but the one
who wears a German looking yachting
cap might appropriately be named
Capper and just for the sake of keep
ing in line, the other who was wear
ing a somewhat loud pair of trousers,
the sporty kind of trousers, last even
ing could be known as Painter
The hawkshaw of the yachting cap
was down in the Eva end of the town
last evening spending money like a
drunken sailor and making himself
solid with a crowd of natives of the
lower type. He will be able to get evil
dence of any sort he dictates when he
has them right. The other detective
was about this morning, but apparent
ly he was taking a rest from the
sleuth business.
The developments will be watched
with interest but it is to be hoped thai
they will not by any chance run across
any of those gambling games known
as bridge or of any called poker which
are played by some of our most re.
spected citizens.