Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-11-12
PARTISAN. FANCY FUR COATS

be effective, should be kept in several tones
of the same shade. For instance an after
noon cloth coat of this color will have
collars and cuffs of terra Gotta, and the
skirt and bodice viii be trimmed with eye
let embroidery of the cloth. The only re-
lievinge note is found in a chemisette and
collar of ecru lace. Net dresses for even.
ing functions are wonderfully swagger in
this shade when trimmed with innum-
cradle rows of velvet ribbon. The charm
of crushed raspberry gown is that one
does not meet 1t at every corner, so there
is an exclusiveness about 1t that is very
attractive. One sees a handsome costume
of it probably at swell restaurant during
the dinner hour and in the stall at the
theater.
The death the other day of Augustus
Person, the inventor of the hoop skirt. has
recalled this fashionable torture to our
minds. This notable octogenarian when
q young man was employed in a famous
dressmaking establishment in Paris during
the early days of the empire, and his 'tupe
a eerceauX" became the vogue, which 10
this day has not been forgotten by the sa-
tirists. Each season in Paris at the debut
of the winter there are rumors of the re-
turn of the crinoline, causing a curious
anticipation from those who watch for the
first flights of the eouturiere's genius. 1t
may be afely accepted as a fact that, ow-
ing 10 the energetic life women now lead,
they will never tolerate such an incon-
yenent style of dress. Quite as much
material is used for a gown now as when
the hoop skirt was fashionable, but the
fabrics are SO soft in texture that the
Clinsing draperes women love to wear are
not a drag upon them. A circle OF very
supple whalehone is used around the
bottom of evening gowns, which has
the effect of making the bottom fullness
stand out This is necessary for the frou
s t the hem of skirts that are close fitting
around the hips We did however have
a little crinoine scare not long ago when
the best couturiereS began putting in the
hens of their skirts fine canvas to hold
out the plain foot lines that are so smart
this winter. And in connection with skirts
many of the jupes have absolutely no trim
ming. with the possible exception of the
circular model, which is finished with an
-eight-inch fold of the material applied on
tie straight and stitched top and bottom.
These folds give weight to the skirt and
prevent in a measure the hopeless habit
this model has of sagging at the sides
Plaid circular skirts are exceedingly at
tractive when trimmed with rows of velvet
ribbon to the knees. And, by the way, this
pattern is an easy one for the plaid Jupe
as it obviates the awkward necessity OF
matching. The best models are still UNI
lined. but drop skirt is sometimes sewed
in at the waist with the outer material.
skirts with inverted box plaits two or
three inches wide and stitched five inches
from the belt have taken the place OF the
plated models of last year which, though
still TO be found in the shops, are not hrst
style.
There is a pretty skirt with circular
top having fan-shaped plaits let in at the
knees and headed with a fancy tab.
A Grecian skirt is a stunning design for
evening gowns, made with a circular foun-
dation usually cut very long. over this IS
a circular drapery lifted high on the left
side and sweeping out into train at the
back. The edge of this drapery mas
Greek key design in gold cord. The bodice
is a short-waisted. draped affair with
CATHERINE TALBOT.