The Saint Paul globe., 1905-03-28
BROWN WALKING COSTUME
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Jauntiness characterizes the new
walking costume. That is, the motif
air to be observed in every model eX-
cept the redingote, which gains consid-
cradle dignity by reason of it's length.
But in the other extreme of outdoor
apparel where the bolero is introduced,
sprightliness is depicted in every line.
Ii is difficult to recall a time when
designs for gowns to be used for the
selfsame occasions presented such strik-
ing contrasts in general effect as they
do at present, but the condition is not
without special advantages. 1t enables
one to own delightful variety of
street gowns, if both the jaunty and
dlgnited are becoming, and in the
other case it offers a rare opportunity
TO all to secure becoming modes.
Braids. are figuring prominently on
all cloth costumes, and not only are the
bra1dS to match used, but black, white,
gold and scarlet are combined eff
fectively with somber colors. Boleros
are SO thickly covered with braided
bands and fancy patterns that they re-
semble the historical Turkish garment
which, as everybody knows, is a thing
of solid braid One interesting point
emphasized by the newest boleros is
shortness. This seaon they are ex-
ceedingly abbreviated, and the smartest
are cut off sharply just below the bust
line and some are slashed up the front
Others are provided with a deep corse-
let which is securely attached to the
sides of the jacket, while a few models
depend upon the blouse girdle for waist
definition.
There seems to be no radical changes
in walking skirts. They are smartest
when made rather full at the bottom
but the uEner mart NAV he Dlpatad in
almost any arrangement that individ-
ual taste prompts. The design of the
accompanying cloth skirt shows a
grouping of graduated box pleats sep
arated by wide plain space. There
are three pleats on the front. two at
each side and three again at the back.
Those in the front are trimmed with
stitching to a distance Of Is inches or
so from the belt, and here the stitch
ing ends in a wedge. The other pleats
are uDStitched but are pressed fat so
that they cling to the figure until they
get beyond the curve of the hips, at
which point they begin to flare smart
ly. The plain sections Of the skirt
have band trimming across the bot
tom not over an inch and half wide
and set this distance above the edge.
A bit of oriental embroidery is in
troduced on the jacket. This Is minus
a collar and opens down the front,
background of the vest is white cloth.
At the throat it begins to curve in a
semi-circle at each side of the center,
and then narrows into a tiny strip
continuing the remainder of the dis
tance. The jacket forms a straight line
across the bottom, and on each side of
the front it is slashed up in a inch
point. touch of oriental embroidery
is to be seen here and there and the
entire irregular design is outlined with
brown satin cord put on to form mill
tary looking loops.
From the under arm seams a deep
pointed corset comes toward the front
to hook up the center very snugly. The
top is finished with stitching, and two
more rows ornament the lower edge.
A full sleeve is held in at the shoulders
by means of tiny pleats, and the full
ness is again brought in below the
elbow by means of the same kind of
folds, which form cuff. These pleats
are stitched fiat vertically and then
crossed with stitching. A narrow band
of the cloth is stitched at the wrist
For a short Jacket costume in which
the popular basque is featured a smart
style has bolero rounding away from
the front and supplemented with a
vest forming two sharp points at the
bottom. The neck Of the bolero is cut
in and trimmed with a wide
band of fancy gold braid, which ends
at the bust in medallions fastening
jabots of ecru lace. Similar bands of
gold braid curve over the shoulders to
end at the point of the arm under disc
like ornaments. Where the rippled
basque is attached to the bolero there
is another braided trimming, and the
medallions on this are fastened each
side of the vest The trimming motif
is repeated on the sleeve. The skirt is