Willmar tribune., 1905-01-18
zLEATtiCF: USED IN DRESS,
The Fi11ely-1'ressed Skins Enter Very
Largely Into Composition Of
=. Ladies' Garments.

inent position assigned to feathers In
the most beautiful colors by few of
the exhibitors of the highest grades OF
skins. Are such, it was asked on many
hands. indicative Of gayer taste in foot
wear, or will luxurious bookbinding,
fancy bags, or upholstery claim them for
their most artistic embodiments? The
rea! reason of their presence Is that the
inner kinds of leather are likely ere long
to play very important part in fashion
able dress, and that it is we'll to show
that our leading English houses are pre-
pared to meet it, For the last two or
three years these exhibitions have been
increasingly visited by the more exclu-
sive ladies' tailors and modistes from
the West end, with view to noting how
and where they might obtain leather
suitable for use in shooting or sporting
costumes of any kind, as in Innings or
fac1ngs, and the present seacon has wit
messed = marked increase in their de-
mands. That such requirements are not
a passing fad it is significant that the
great wholesale. manufacturing houses
s~~> ~ A~A AA6 AAC" OAtCA<lttly LOT tue
: dresses of spring.
r ITO understand how it has come about
that leather should now be making sucn
eHectlve appeal with regard to dress
trimming, the explanation of a leading
expert threw full light upon the sub
ject The dominant leather for boots
ard shoes fulfilling the present demands
for lightness, flexibility and ease in
wear is real Kid skin taken frcm the
young goat, and SO extensively is it en-
ployed that calf kid is not used in any
thing like the proportion that it for
mer1y was. Such request for kid as there
Is at this moment has never been known
before, and the remotest villages OF Eu-
rope, India, South America, and
wherever goats are kept, ar visited by
1tinerant collectors to obtain them. The
skins are sun dried, made up into bales,
shipped to America or this country, and
20 through the usual processes of being
soaked, put into lime for unhairirg, and
finally tanned. Kid. as it was found
when submitted to chrome treatment
for Waterproof1ng or for glazing. gave
such satisfactory results that further
experiments in coloring and dyeing were
Instituted, and it is in these last stages
that such remarkable advances have
been made during the past two years
or So
"A special surface known technically
as matt finish is given to the kid, which
Is finding chief favor with the dress
makers. 1t is not SO smooth or bright
as that Of ordinary glace kid, and may
be said to resemble a dull satin, with
peach-like bloom upon it. The colors
include some CT the softest pastel shades,
Is we'll as the stronger and brighter
tones. and the reds, mauves, and cham
pagnes are particularly good. From the
wholesale manufacturers. as we'll as
from the ladies' tailors, the shades NEST
called for are subdued myrtle green,
navy blue, prune, golden. chocolate, and
hazel browns. and silver gray, which is
shown in some very delicate gradations,
while white is greatly favored. It is
used as vests with very smart gowns.
and appears on coats and skirts in
revers, Wristbands. strappings, pipings,
and buttons. For motor wear whole
blouses are made of it. In the darker
shades very workmanlike skirts arc
turned out, and underskirts have been
made in It for ladies who are anticipat-
ing shooting over rough country 1t is
even appearing upon millinery, and felt
hats for country or morning wear are
being trimmed with folded bands of 1t
fastened by quills or wings. Possibly
here the soft. velvet-like suede finish
may ultimately win chief acceptance
But there would seem to be no limits
to its possible uses as an accessory OF
dress, as it is pointed out that motifs
and appliques Of quite original effects
could easily be obtained from it, while
it lends itself we'll as the ground for
silk embroidery and jeweled work. 1t
is evident that the leather merchants
have firm belle in it as coming fea-
r. ture'in fashion. which is manifested at
1slington by the attention bestowed
upon it In tasteful and attractive dis
plays and the wide range of colors which
they are prepared to supply"
The direction fashion is taking in this
matter in England should give hint
to American: manufacturers and mer-
chants. They should be quick to fol-
low this lead. In the manufacture of
shoes and some other kinds of leather
goods America has taken the undisputed
lead in the markets of the world. 1t
ought to be able to excel in the produce
ton of the finer as well as in the coarser
grades of leather.
WALTER G. HAMM.