The sun., 1905-10-01

vith yetlrwlsh rpss tha, toned IN u..'
hsrruoulo,isiy with the dulRt rrlpf
Thla f,sndor SMOKE gtav and ihr Ia'
afay are very tfufninrnt IN the inilirru
color nst ~ they are among drrss '0t.
tcrisis, ard they have q certain dis'lnr'IUn
though thcy are not universally hccomrg
An of thu violet. run ie and dahlia shade.
arc iltru fnahionabir end wcndcrf thr.,
are done IN shading ~ thesr diiI'cit culHft
things possible only 90 tho trrc ar'If
for ~ lao nosc would he di~astrc-a, and or'y
n remarkable color sense ran achieve I"r.
feet harmony In minElipg these pun h-h
rods and pinka.
Greens are successful IN millinery, arl
green and brown or green and hhc co"-
b5iiHus;io1is are frequent Onn Isrticulaf'Y
pretty green turtan had its top formed
os q soft drared felt whose edges turned
down over the close fitting brm mad" 4
folds n deeper green velvet. On each
side of the turhan was act a wing who's
point turned hack aud downward over
the hair, and whose color shaded through
many soft green's into An odd hrowni-h
salmon pink at the tirs.
The coloring Of the wings and breasts
and made birds transcends anything ever
seen In that line and makes possible the
most beautiful of color schemes in the
street hats. Descrir tion Of these color
shadings IL impossible. Ono must see
to understand.
Tho wings OF all shapes and sizes ard
often eyaggeratedly large, run wonderful
color gamu ts in the violet a1d naive shades
the red and pink shades, the soft greens,
and browns or green's and blues mixed,
the gray and lilac aud violet harmonies,
the queer ripe apricot and oran ges and
brown tones, and the breasts and birds
repeat the stories, although the greatest
triumphs In this color field are this season
won by the wings.
Peacock and turquoise blues are fire.
quent notes in these wings, usually In com
binstion with sTays. browns. greens, dark
blues, or black-and turquoise blue and
gray winga were trimming OF the severe
hat with jam pot crown and straight brm,
which is reproduced among the cuts
A big rectan gular buckle Of steel, through
which asses wide land Of velvet, is also
q feature Of this ST art mode! and cal
attention to the fact that, with the hsh
crowns and folded bands. buckles have
come back to their own. Furnished STEEL
plain dull gold, copper and amber are used
for the plain large buckles considered 50
chic upon the walking hat of somewhat
tailored genre, and the amber buckle
is particularly good with many Of the sea-
SON browns and green's.
The Amazon shape, with square top off
derby top crown and ourled brim, is one oi
the most noticeable and numerous SHAPES Oh
the season. and is sure to be worn by man!
women to whom 1t is most un coming
When becoming and well worn it has a GER
tain trig smartness, and ParlslahS nave
taken it up with enthusiasm
A cluster Of tips, ooque Ilumes, nasseu
loops Of shaded ribbon OF wings are the ac-
cepted trimming for this shape, and among
the sketches are good suggestions tor sue"
trimming ,u;,s
holds over to the winter millinery, ana lho
idea produces some graceful and recon-
ing models, but it lends itself so readily TO
cheap caricature that it Is douht!' "t'lnel
such dnperies retain their prestige. save
perhaps in lace 30 Handsome thatit i' Ju,.
tification for itself and stands rnmistaNG'F
apart from all cheap limitations
fur hats are elready appearing ana hle
to be very modsh, but there Will Le tine
for discussion Of them later. one ItIi
round turban OF black oaracr and g II
gauze with an egret in white we rave ! IT,
tured because of its severe coquettshneS',
The tricorne' has lost taste. yet - shown
in some particularly fetching modd' 81
soft felt turned up sharl ly and tIctcd IL
| the back. Such lat in white felt l7 a'Ao' 4
the cuts and was {. loctalle creation, wln
trimming Of deep parna. viCl,t htimt
and violsts, a brim facing OF viti; chfi,.H
! lace and white velvet asters massed against
| the bandeau.
The filing in of the hat backs ' an ar,
| this season and is accom- l!Shcd IN many
wavs-with tulle, with flowers. with oeitl!
tied and masssd lows and loors OF sheer'St
satin ribbon, with plumes, with iE loo'e
| bows of velvet silk or satin, with Gui l'cG or
70 ,stte lace, with chiffon knots and scarf
| ends. II =,
Whatever is uscl, the hat, for all Us
saucy tilt and high luck must fit wel oT',
the hair and make with hair nno h'aa n
! harmonious outline, II it Goes ho' -
caohet Is G 1ne. ,..,l u.,l
Do not Iuy a hat unless it is fitted W.
to your head and the ugly anF'es ana n"., ,og.
lows are filed out by trimming. me-
| vou intend to make your hair supply 'ne
| deficisncies and are willing to spend mN'"
| time IN hair dressing.