Spirit of the age. [volume] (Woodstock, Vt.) 1845-1913, 1905-12-23

l.
Victor Hlrtzler, chef de cuisine OF the
ST. Francis Hotel and he tells an IN
teresting story Of how cooks are e'lu-
Gated to I'LL the high places in the XII
chens of royalty, says the San fran
cisco BulletiT.
Mr. Hirtzler entered the Russian
kitchen in the French department UNI
der the guidance of Eugene hratz'
that famous chef of the Russian palace
whose fame has become world VIDE
The head chef of the palace holds
very important position in the Russian
world. He has control of every kltcheh
in Russia and every two months
makes his rounds of the different de-
partments of his kingdom. HIS rank
is that of a general in the Russian
army. and he commands every person
serving In any capacity under him IN
the different cuisines. His salary
amounts to over $4,000 per year more
than that of the President of the Unlt-
ed States.
His duties are more of the head than
of the hands. If his Highness, Memo.
las. becomes weary Of the delights OF
the table constantly on hand ana
wishes something new, the head chet
must besir himself aid create some
thing never heard Of by mortal ears
before. This is the only time In when
he comes into intimate contact with
the pots, kettles and pans, though ev-
ery one is an intimate friend OF his
watchful eye.
With his small quantities of mater
ials he closes himself in his private
kitchen and SINNERS and stews, COM
binlng the most daring things until
the compound that comes forth is as
ambrosia. Then he tastes 1t, ana MS
under chefs taste 1t, and the under
under chefs taste it. A major OF the
army is called in, and he tastes IT,
too. Then they all wait, and IL rea-
sonable times expires, bringing no
fatal results to my one of the honored
ones. Nicholas eats, and is delighted
with n hash that was invented Ior
him.
Nicholas is a big, healthy and hearty
eater. His appetite is by 10 means
royal. He eats and delights IN con-
glomeration that would put John ID.
Rockefeller in his grave. Every meal
served in the palace is a banquet only
when it is a dinner Of state the add
ton of different entrees strings 1t out
indefinitely. Every morning a major
of the army, selected by the Emperor
himself and always in the Kitchen, is
called into the royal presence ana
given the menu for the day by the
Car himself. The Czarina never Or
ders a meal.
The major goes to the kitchen and
gives the menu to the chef, who posts
it I'm n conspicuous place. Every I'M
der chef reads, selects the dish that
comes in his department, and proceeds
TO cook. From to IL and from II
TO . the kitchen is scene of hustling
activity, and the three hundred men
under the head chef are enveloped IN
delicious vapors.
At In the morn lg the breakfast is
served. This meal is merely breakfast,
being simple repast cf eggs. tea cof-
fee. chocolate and fruits. Caviar is
never absent from the table OF the
Gar, nor is the pate de foie gras that
he loves.
Then comes the luncheon at IL,
with salads, soups and cold meats, ices
and desserts. This but forerunner
of the 5 o'clock meal, that takes
good days work TO prepare. At
quarter to 5 everything is dished up in
the kitchen as it is to be served. III
the Czar's presence. The major on
duty comes and partakes of every
dish that is on the menu. Then the
head chef is obliged to sample the
dishes, and small space of time
elapses, sufficient to insure against the
possibility of poisoning. Then the
food is placed in the eleva tor having
a closed shaft, the major also enters
the car with the food, is locked In, and
the lift goes directly to the dining
room into the presence of the Gar.
Here again the major eats under the
strictest surveillance of his royal mas
ter, and, nothing happening to him,
the family sits down to dinner. No
dish that is served on the table of the
Car is ever permitted to go to the
dining room except through the eleva'
tor shaft. 1t never enters corridor,
so that the only possibility of poison
being mixed with the food lies in the
hand of the major, who would die
first after tasting, without harming
the Gar.
The dining room in which the regu-
lar meals of the family are served Is
a remarkable affair. 1t is built EN-
tirely of castiron and sealed between
meals like a great bank vault. 1t is
not very large, but is perfectly bomb
proof. 1t is plainly seen that Nicholas
is careful of his life.
But to go back to the dinner The
Gear is an eplcure and a gourmet.
After several appetizers he partakes
of what is called "borch," or cold
soup, typically Russian dish, hot and
cold meats, four or five entrees Of all
nationallties, hot and cold poultry, hot
and cold vegetables, hot and cold pud-
dings, ices and cold cakes, wine and
hot tea o: "yodke," the drink eXclu-
sively Russian. The Car eats
through the whole menu and never
misses a trick He is fondest Of the
cold soups, and frequently has sever
al kinds served at meal.
The end of the feast is a delight and
surprise to the children Of the fam
lily as well as to their father. 1t is
one of variety of pieces montees, a
dainty bit of confectionery or fancy
sugar made by the court candy maker
in divers and sundry forms. One
night it is a double headed eagle, the
coat-of-arms of Russia, another time
the likeness of some celebrity, at an
other flower or a fruit. This always
delights the royal gentleman, who, af
ter admiring It, breaks 1t up and de-
yours the toy of a moment The num-
hor - ,.nYpcae 60 oIxuovc tho coma M