Morgan County democrat. (Versailles, Mo.) 1900-1906, 1905-08-18
powdered rotten stone and oil on q
soft wad of canton flannel.
Copyright. 1869

powdered rotten stone and oil on q
soft wad of canton flannel.
When polishing with rotten stone
the last or finishing polish is best pro-
duced by small circular strokes of the
polisher, and when the required polish
has been given to the surface, all re-
naming oil and rotten stone is wiped
off with a soft cloth, and the final polish
given with a piece of soft chamois skin,
continuing t. use the circular strokes
in preference to rubbing lengthwise or
in one direction.
When polishing with rotten stone.
linseed oil will produce a finer polish
than other oils. but it must be more
carefully wiped from all angles and
corners, where. if allowed to remain,
it will catch and retain dust.
Powdered pumice stone is sold in sew
eral grades of %fineness, and the finest
only should be used on varnish or shell
lac. The cost will be three or four cents
a pound.
PuiveriZed rotten stone of the best
quality will cost from five to eight cents
a pound. Both pumice and rotten stone
should be bought only where varnish
and other wood finishing materials are
sold, thus insuring a good article free
from dust and grit.
The art of finishing fne furniture,
pianos. etc, after they are made, as may
be inferred from the description and
instructions given regarding varnishes
and how to use them, is not only ON.
plicated, but requires years of expe-
rience and practice, and Is far in ad-
vance of the work of the varnisher or
painter who finishes the interior of our
houses.
Yet with these facts before him, the
beginner may with care and patience
in following these simple directions
produce a passably fair finish on ar
ticles made by himself, and bearing on
which we wish to emphasize the fol-
lowing points:
/. Water stain will dry in one hour;
oil stain requires "a to SO hours.
2. Filler must be rubbed of perfectly
clean from the surface and from all
angles and II 1t must then have
from "a to 4S hours to harden and dry.
3. Each coat of varnish or Of shellac
must be dry and hard before another
is applied.
A.. Each successive coat Except the
LAST must be %sandpapered smooth when
dry.
5. Each coat of shellac should have
about "a hours to dry and harden.
6. Each coat of copal furniture) var
nish must have from two to four days
to dry and harden.
Z. Shellac varnish does not resist
moisture, hence be sure to use oil, not
water, with the pumice stone.
s. Copal, being all oil varnish. ~resists
moisture. therefore may be rubbed with
pumice and water to produce an even
surface.
8. Pumice stone will cut much faster
when used with water than when used
with oil.
10. When copal is rubbed with pumice
and water the finished surface. although
even and smooth, will have no gloss.
II. II copal is rubbed with pumice
and oil Onstead of water). a beautiful
dead finish is produced. which many
persons prefer to q bright, glossy
polish.
IL. II a bright polish Is desired on
any kind Of varnish, it u be polished
with rotten stone and oil, after being
cut to an ever surface with pumice
stone.
Is. Never use a block or holder when
sandpapering shellac or varnish, Of any
kind. Use the hand only.
IA. Use a block when rubbing down
fiat surfaces with pumice and oil, or
water, only long enough to cut OF the
larger projections of the varnish. Then
use the hand alone to hold the rubber.
Is. Never sandpaper the last coat
use pum!ce stone, as directed.
Note.-Ail articles finished with copal
varnish can be cleaned and renewed
in appearance, after long use, In no way
SO we'll as to wash with a soft cloth and
tepid water, to which a little mild, fine
soap has been added. No injury vii,
result, provided they are at once wiped
dry with a soft cloth. To improve the
polish after the above, go over all sur.
faces with a small piece Of chamois
skin and a few drops Of olive oil. and
anally polish with q soft dry chamois