The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-10-01


 The separate wrap by which Dame Fashion means 1t to be understood that the wrap differs altogether in material and color from the gown 1t accompanies is one of the best features of the fashions listed for popularity during the late au- tumn and winter seasons.
 Long and loose are the lines that the nckle dame favors most for the wrap of dressy intent; and the longer and looser the affair Is the better 1t Is supposed to represent the mode. There are charming coats modelled upon an exaggerated sacque shape, one in which the back is cut wit either a bias seam or fold-the latter is far preferable-in the center of the back, the side seams fiaring widely, and the fastening effected in double-breasted style with handsome buttons down the front. This is a style that the tall and the short woman, the slender and the stouter sister alike will find most fatteringly becoming, provided--and there's the hitch-Ihat it be cut especially with her proportions in view.
 The so-calied Empire mode-and most of the present-day examples enlisted un- der this title are wofully misleading to the student of history-is among one of the most charming designs that have pre- seutsd themselves for quite some little time. This Is fashioned with charac- teristic short-body portion, which sets smoothly across the shoulders, extends for a greater or lesser length-usually the latter-under the arms, rounds up a trine on the bust, and has full and flowing skirts attached at this point. Any num- Der and variety of collars are presented in this connection; and the sleeves are perhaps as various as are the collars and neck fnishtngs
 One interesting model which Is, perhaps, truer to type than most of its associates in the exclusive couturieres' showcases dispiays a charmingly soft shade of gray satin faced broadcloth, the kind that Pa risians term drap satdne. This has the yoke or body part in chiffon velvet of the same tint of French gray, and braided in a soft satin soutache, in which glints of silver reveal themselves at close in- teryals. The coat skirts are circular in cut, and applied to this body portion with dart-shaped tucks This part is so cleverly shaped that 1t sinks into the figure at the waistline, and thus seems
  present day correcting when correctly carried out--so subtly emphasizes. The side seams are slashed almost to the waist-the garment itself comes to we'll below the knee-and revers of chiffon velvet, interlinec with a princess hair cloth, so that they shall not crease or crumple when the wearer is seated. are posed on either side of the slashed seam. The sleeve of this garment Is of full length, with a big faring cavalier cuff in velvet braided en suite with the yoke and revers.
 For the general utility coat, the garment that has to do duty with all sorts Of skirts, and for shirtwaist suits as well, the fitted design is the one that finds favor with fastidious dressers. This marks most effective contrast between the dressy and the utility wrap, the one with its long and loose lines to cover up. but not to crush the dainty gown of chiffon or crepe de chine, and the other to be worn over shirtwaists, and cling closely enough to the figure to define It's pretty outlines.
 Braids and braidlngs play a very im- portant part h the later wraps. Every thing from the narrowest soutache up to and including tressed braid that Is all of half a dozen inches or even more in width, they are in demand by tailor and dressmaker alike. They are posed fat. in diamond-shs ped designs, in intersecting circles, and are combined the one with the other after the most effective and fasci- hating patterns. Pull threads are inter woven in the pattern, so that the braid can be instantly made to assume de- sign. and this pull thread likewise holds the braid true to pattern when turning corners, fattening 1t for circles and the like.
 Delicately tinted soutaches are among