Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1905-03-04

mating that one can hardly await the
time when they will be in order. The
charming and useful shirtwaist suit will
be so much in evidence all day and
everywhere, and in so many materials,
that hats suitable for these, and also
for the severer wooltex and other tailor
suits, are among the first important Of
ferings. These hats show new features;
as the costumes are more ornate, the
hats have acquired more elaboration in
shape and treatment; still, they are
simple, retaining the character which
has made them popular.
Among the many novelties is a new
"lingerie" or club" hat, which is
intended to wear with "tub" suits to
match. This is of English eyelet en-
broidered linen, chambray, or batiste, a
brim cut to shape, with scalloped edge,
the crown covered with fitted piece,
and the underbrim Of narrow ruffles of
valenciennes lace run on a fitted piece
of muslin, or washing net or chiffon run
on cords, which hold the piece in shape.
Such hats are easily taken apart,
laundered and put together again. OF
course, they can be worn with different
suits, the all white specially, as diff
ferent sets of trimmings can be used
for different suits. {,
1t will be great ribbon season
that is sure-not only for hat trim
mings, but for stocks and girdles to
match, shirred, tucked and draped over
natty feathepboned foundations. A
Every pretty mushroom shape is most
attractive. It is shown in "hngerie'
makeup, with crown of embroidered
lawn or linen and brim of lace ruftlles
with detachable ribbon trimmings.
These "mushroom" hats are also
seen in the lovely new straws and
wood silk braids, with fluffy under
brims that show up charmingly by rea-
son of the uplifting bandeau. Large
transparent hats of Neapolitan, in
white, black and colOrs, are bent into
the most wonderful arrangements
colonial, Napoleon, Corday, cavalier and
Victorian bonnets are seen, and many
another charming shape, without refer
ence to any particular period, only that
it shall enhance the loveliness of the
wearer.
Small hats are for the moment more
popular; therefore the large shapes are
bent and twisted until their size is
quantity reduced. But large shapes
will never quite lose favor. Nothing
is so picturesque, so suitable, with an
elegant toilet as large, fluffy, feath-
er trimmed hat.
The spring models are mostly in soft,
light colors; the materials employed
are soft silks and ribbons in shadings
of one color, shaded and pompadour
gauzes and nets and flowers. Ostrich
plumes and the dainty marabou feath-
ers trim dressy models, and on the
"tailor" hats quilts and wings in novel
arrangements are conspicuous.
I Everything is high in some wayl
either it is the entire effect, or it is
some trimming set on the left; but
with the hat worn tilted forward the
trimming is arranged differently, and a
cachepeigne or back trimming is nee
essary to cover the bandeau that holds
the hat in position.
Embroidery was never shown great
er favor, not only in millinery trim
ming, embroidered sets for entire hats,
etc, but in every species of garment.
Very beautiful are the new embroidered
. waists silk, niohair, silk and linen
, poplin and sheer materials. Some OF
these embroideries are in self-eolors,
others shaded, and again others in
contrasting eolors or rich Oriental ef'
fects, the design Of the waist, in way
made subservient TO the embroidery
For instance, in an Oriental design
the girdle, cuffs and other little touches
win be of silk in rich Oriental patterna
IL AIu iAbbAS NOoSAN" "-N~ -
of silk and lace stitches or inserts
while a waist embroidered in white
on a color will have accessories Of white
though in this case the girdle will be OF
the waist silk. A chemisette and stock
of lace or sheer null are essential fea
tures; these and the girdle, which II
also indispensable, must be snugly
draped over a carefully fitted feather
bOned foundation-this independently
! of the well-ftted lining.
Skirts are full and soft, with many
tueks, shirred and corded hounees, anc
circular AOunces set on, the fullness ne
cessitating a support in some invisible
way. This, as a rule, is given by
\ hand of Dliable Drincess haiTelOth IN