davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star., 1905-11-05
LAS kND PINK FIpWERaED TNFfIEA NTH GOLD
RA1LTTEo

used. probably more than any other ma
teriaI.
AS elbow sleeves are worn altogether with
afternoon gowns made at all elaborately.
shorter sleeves are smarter for dinner
gowns. If a broad line across the shoul-
ders is becoming. large pun sleeves are
worn even in the dinner gown, but there
Is no fixed rule and some few OF the even
ing sleeves are very small indeed If pos
sible, the sleeves should be unlined. 1t
viii be far softer and prettier than when
too heavy. Trains are to be once more
long and graceful. but the pointed trains
have not yet reappeared. Round skirts are
smartest at present, and the material must
be full. long in front and on the sides,
sloping gradually toward the train In back.
The empire gown. with Watteau plait hang
ing from the shoulders, is seen among the
newest dinner models. This makes ef-
fective style of dress, and is quite unlike
any other of this years models, although
the picturesque is always fashionable If
becoming. and there are more women
every year who know how to be gowned
picturesquely and at the same time becom-
ingly.
This question of the picturesque Is bound
to be brought up again this year, for when
fanciful brocades are in fashion and fichus
appear on all styles of gowns-as at pres
ent-there is always the temptation to copy
the gowns portrayed in old miniatures and
family portraits. For the debutante espe-
cially the picturesque holds exceptional at
fractions, for the simple reason that to her
this style OF dress Is especially becoming.
The debutantes outfit is so very import
ant that 1t actually absorbs all the atten-
ton of the modistes at this time OF year.
AS small dinners are among the most popu-
lar forms of entertainment given In her
honor by the debutante's intimate friends,
her dinner gowns must be most carefully
selected Soft materials trimmed with ruff
f1es and ruchngs galore, are sure to prove
becoming, but heavier textures. silk. crepe
de chine and satin, will endure infinitely
more constant usage. Radium, soft SHIN
mering satin finished silk makes up charm
Ingly in any shade. while stiff taffetas are
worn again to an astounding extent. White
ts Of course the debutante color, but 1t is
a mistake not to have some pink and blue
gowns in the trousseau, as variety is neces-
sary White net trimmed with white lace
az tulle eIaborately spangled in gold, sill
ar or iridescent paillettes, is extremely
Evening star., 1905-11-05

terials a princess gown is particularly
pretty, and as chiffon and gauze are alike
extremely perishable, crepe de chine still
retains its place well up on fashions lad
der. Plain crepe cannot, of course, serve
save for the most informal sort of dinners
for home wear, but crepe shows up hand
embroidery even better than the other ma
terials unless the crepe he chine Is Of un-
usually heavy and fine a quality. Only
that with the satin finish should be
bought, although it is great temptation
to take advantage of the great reduction
sales In dull finish crepe. If the gown is
intended only for a simple house dress
then, and then only, the cheaper quality
will answer the purpose. For the tea
gowns embroidered crepe de chine is now,
Evening star., 1905-11-05

of treatment. f1neness. etc. They are now
all made trimmed with the finest French
embroidery, and most of them have lace
decoration as well. Very few bibs are
made without ruff1es. these being invaria-
bly, made of lace.
Real Valenciennes and baby Irish are
used for this purpose The embroidery must
be of the most delicate designs in hand
work and the bib itself of the finest hand
kerchief linen, batiste or nainsook. Most
Of the bibs made up In this way are oval,
rounding smoothly at the edges Very few
square bibs are shown. but there are some
pointed ones. These are, In fact, diamond
shaped. one point being cut out to allow
for the neck shape. They are not perfect
squares. the diamond being somewhat elon-
gated.
Evening star., 1905-11-05
Brocade and Velvet Book Covers.

- RNAMENTAL book covers made or
II brocades, old velvets. embroidery.
etc, are beginning to be very much
y admired by women who love beau
tiful things made by hand. A tiny
bookstand holding about half a dozen OF
these volumes Is rich and beautiful as
well as an interesting. addition TO the fur-
nishing of a drawing room or pouooir.
Certainly no greater compliment can be
Maid by a woman to a friend than the CIV
ing of one of the hand made book covers
which incloses favorite volume OF the re-
Rare old fabrics are best for this purpose,
IL they can possibly be obtained. Bits of
faded velvet and brocade, antique embroid-
cries, old gold ornaments or braid, galioon,
et. sufficiently tarnished to show but a
CLINT of gold old satins and heavy old silks
are the really suitable materials. OF
course II these are not to be had-and they
require both money and time in the pursuit
new things will do, but If these are chosen
the greatest care should be taken to select
dark rich and heavy materials and those
whose design is suited to the shape in which
II will be used
In selecting a book to bind In this way
it is good plan to buy good second
hand book and as old an edition as can be
found within the price limits. A new book
seems somehow unsuited TO the purpose
Yellowed leaves. old illustrations and the
quaint lettering which seem to lend peculiar
grace to an old volume are particularly
worthy OF being set OF by the elaporate
hand made covers. The volume should
have originally been well made and hand
some one and the body of the book must.
of course. be in a good state of preserva-
ton. The cover does not matter. If 1t hap
pens to be in good condition the materials
for the new cover may be placed directly
over It. II the book is misshapen or the
side boards broken. 1t should be rebound
with plain boards by professional binder.
In selecting the book as to Its contents
we should. OF course Judge OF the taste of
the person who Is to receive it. But there
are some books, or rather some classes Of
hooks. which seem particularly suited to
this sort Of binding and others to which 1t
would be either an affront or misapplied
cornplimerrt One can fancy the sonHets of
shakespeare in such a binding, but hardly
1Macbeth" It would be an affront to MIL
ton. bat 1t would do admirably for Brown
inr Swinburne or Francois Villon. The
old English comedies would be particularly
well suited for such q beautiful binding,
which ss,xgests luxury. fine manners. ele-
CANT society and worldly good taste rather
than the seciusion OF deep study or the
ideality OF lofty thought. Old French and
italian books OF tales are also especially
well dressed in these fine fabrics. One
speaks here OF the old brocades. enbroid-
cries and silks. Tho new materials would
be used more nttinsly to dress some popular
light novel or book Of travel of the moment
Evening star., 1905-11-05

wide box plaits. If so severe a model
can be worn it will be becoming In any
shade, but only a master hand can keep
the lines from being hard and angular in
model so difficult to cope with.
~
All black, all white or black and white
combined are the only lace robes seen. A
black and white lace gown makes one of
these dresses which are so delightfully."- serv-
iceable, as they seem suitable to almost
any occasion. Black and white is always
effective and yet Is not SO conspicuous as
to be easily remembered. black and
white robe laid over a Spangled under
petticoat is infinitely more attractive than
when the spangles are sewed directly upon
the lace. The lace gown Is no longer left
to depend upon the material itself for ef-
feet, but is now trimmed with large jet
ornaments and jet passementerie. with fes-
toons of narrow velvet ribbon, or else the
lace itself is embroidered with either ribbon
or spangles tracing the design of the lace.
Such a gown Is, of course, exquisite and the
scintillating pailletes render the lace, whose
intrinsic value is seldom sufficiently ap-
parent doubly effective.
Chiffon velvet also must be severe in
style. and there again the rich collar
of Irish or point lace will come in to great
advantage. Velvet needs little trimming,
but what it has must be of the most rare
and expensive order. Velvet seems to re-
tain certain shadngs which are out of
reach of more ordinary materials. There
is deep shade of turquoise blue which is
beautiful, while some tones of rose pink
are exquisite Scarlet. flame color and
orange are all three handsomer in chiffon
velvet than in either silk. satin or chiffon,
and these are shades which are to be fash
ionable this year. but only in the very
complete trousseau. Iridescent spangles
are fascinating with velvet, as the soft
tones of both show up exquisitely, the one
against the other. Even II there are no
spangles upon the waist the velvet skirt
may be finished with a wide band OF pail
iette embroidery, woven in some attractive
design.
Chiffon and net are especially popular
this year for the ball room, but neverthe-
less are seen with long train and rather
high bodice for a dinner gown. The gowns
aaSOn are moro trimmed with Snan-
Evening star., 1905-11-05

"VENING gowns differ to so marked
IL degree this season, according to
the purposes for which they are de-
- signed. that the outfit must OF ne
cessity be unusually large for the
opera, effect Is the first consideration. and
all the trimming. as well as the material
itself. must be chosen with this end in view.
More detail is apparent In the ball gowns,
and the cut and fit must be perfect. but
this dress is quite little shorter than the
dinner or opera gown, although all trains
are longer than those of last winter A
dinner gown Is supposedly of a simpler
model than the other evening costumes,
but of late the over-elaborate has crept into
every department OF dress, and at a formal
dinner the costume must surely be as hand
some in both detail and whole effect as the
reception dress, on which is now expended
no end of thought and labor.
Satin and brocade are pre-eminently fash
ionable for the dinner gown. These tex
lures need little adornment and are hard
soonest when long and rather severe lines
are preserved, so that simplicity can more
or less be maintained in contrast to the
elaborate detail of the hand work the
average ball gown and opera costume.
There are various striped silks and satins
TO be seen this year which make UP charm
ingly, while for informal dinners flowered
silks and taffetas are astonishingly effec-
tive, even in the small, rather indefinite
patterns. In silk of vague uncertain COL
oring decided tone or a sharp note of con-
trast introduced in the trimming Will at
once give the desired character to the dress.
The simpler a brocade of large pattern is
made up the more effective will 1t be. With
French rose or poppy design the gown
hl " a hCn l11r N rlrf1
relieved only by deep bertha collar OF
real lace. and for dinner dress no hand
somer model could be found. Satin, too, is
most effective made up without any attempt
at ornamentatlon. but a plain totally un-
trimmed model must ht to perfection and,
needless TO state is only becoming to ex-
ceptionally good figures. A smart dinner
gown of black satin was cut in deep "
shaped decollete. sloped slightly off the
shoulders. The bodice was draped across
the bust and in the back and fastened
down the side. the neck being softened only
by loose folds OF black tulle The skirt
was untrimmed, the long train falling in
Evening star., 1905-11-05

with lavender is one Of the happiest COM
binations, but apple green and blue Or lilac
and pink and a dozen other contrasts are
all perhaps equally attractive. The over
skirt of chiffon should be accordion plated
or else extremely full. while the silk lining
must have plenty Of flare and stiffness.
The princess Is as much In vogue this
winter as the first year 1t was introduced
both the severely plain and the rather
elaborately tucked, plated and shirred
princess are seen and the different models
vie only with one another in popularity.
In crepe de chimes and all such soft ma
Evening star., 1905-11-05

which the school does not teach and can
not impart. Your angles have been rub
bed Off in the conflicts and the frictlons
which come socially and in business to
grown-up men and women. You have hao
experience. She Is hard teacher. but her
lessons are Immensely valuable. You know
tnstinctiyely what line Of conduct to take
in emergencies which battle those who are
unskilled in meeting new situations. A
knowledge of men Is often worth more
than mere technical discipline. and this Is
why we must always discount the bril-
liant graduate, who has only academic hon.
ors and has not yet been tried in the school
Of practical life.
There are ways Of keeping pace with the
Juniors that are well worth trying. have
received not once, but times without NUM-
Der, letters from mothers who felt that they
must hide their diminished heads In the
presence of the cultivated sons and daugh-
ters who had brought home from col
lege and university sheaves of learning
which the mothers could never hope to
touch.
About all am good for" wrote a mother
one day. '.is to dust Amy's books and make
her clothes. and keep her friends outside
her door while she is writing poetry" Poor
little motherl The sentimental girl who
would sit writing verses which she fondly
fancied poetical, while her mother continued
to drudge for her, was not worth her salt.
No honest father or mother should enter
tain a feeling OF awe because their sons
and daughters have bright weapons while
their own have grown rusty. In the last
metic is ali that remains for most Of us
after long courses Of advanced mathe-
maticSs and ~ for Greek and Latin, Il ~
Evening star., 1905-11-05

THE fashion of using hand en-
broidery and Valenciennes lace IN
one garment Is most happily
made use of for the decoration of
babies frocks. The very tiny
baby who will go into short frocks at about
six months has before that time, while it is
still in long frocks a rather limited field
for lnery. All that Is possible is pure white
in the finest OF linen. batiste. nainsook. etc.
Therefore the very finest French embroid-
cry and narrow Valenciennes lace have
an opportunity to display all their beauties
on the very lktle baby's wardrobe. as they
are not overshadowed by heavier trimming
Little besides ValencienneS and embroidery
IS row seen on any of the baby garments,
Evening star., 1905-11-05

Chiffon and net are especially popular
this year for the ball room, but neverthe-
less are seen with long train and rather
high bodice for a dinner gown. The gowns
this season are more trimmed with SPAN
Evening star., 1905-11-05

book covers made of
brocades, old velvets. embroidery,
ETC., are beginning to be very much
admired by women who love beau
tiful things made by hand. A tiny
Evening star., 1905-11-05

OVENING gowns differ to so marked
\ a degree this season, according to
the purposes for which they are de-
signed, that the outfit must OF ne
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1905-02-27
We Paid 100000

For the American rights to Liquo-
zone We did this after testing the
product for two years, through physi-
slams and hospitals, after proving, in
thousands of different cases, that
Liquozone destroys the cause Of any
germ disease
Liquozone has, for more than 20
years, been the constant subject of
scientific and chemical research It Is
not made by compromising drugs, nor
with alcohol. Its virtues are derived
solely from gas-largely oxygen gas
by process requiring immense appa-
ratus and IA days time The result is
Liquid that does what oxygen does
1t is nerve food and blood food-the
most helpful thing in the world to you.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1905-02-27
{. Petersburg offices, and consequent

st. Petersburg Offices and consequent
w., Notwithstanding all his despotlc
power he was doomed to defeat by
sheer force of numbers.
when, however, the inevitable VIC
tory of the zemstvo is finally won, When
it's united forces succeed in obtaining
some form of constitutional govern
ment, or zemsky sober, we may expect
a transformation of the political strug-
gle such as few foresee.
The Zemstvo's Main Point.
"rhe main point in this zemstvo
program is national participation in
self-government. This will give the
peasant a preponderant vote and at
once give rise to an agrarian move
ment; the peasant seeking to increase
his holdings from the land belonging
to other classes and to the state. Ot
course this can be settled by means OF
gradual appropriations but it is DIM
cult to expect such peaceful ADJUST
ment This interesting social question
is destined to assume unexpected
forms in Russia.
I'm concluding this review of the
zemstvos role in the political develop
ment of Russia l think it of interest
to give a few facts regarding it's or
ganization. The zemstvo institution
exists in thirty-four provinces or gov
ernments of European Russia. The
members of the provincial zemstvos
are elected by the members OF the dis
trict zemstvos which number BIS; the
members of the district bodies are
elected by direct vote in the electoral
colleges of each class of the conlmun-
ity. The contingent of members re-
turned by the peasans is strictly linn
tied and as the number of peasants
electoral colleges is in excess of this
contingent the governor makes a Sc
lection. The ullase of December 20.
1904. provides for the creation of small
zemstvo units which will represent
the villages and bear the same relation
to the district Zemstvo that the latter
now bears to the provincial body.
"'rhere also exists a secret organl-
zation which virtually unites the thlr-
ty-four zemstvos in clandestine nat
ional assembly. Quite recently this or
eanziation was treated as illegal and
subjected to persecution by the gov
eminent, but now, it is not directly
interfered with, altho still unrecog-
nized by law
Besides building and endowing
schools the Russian zemstvo has de-
veloped and organized a number of
other public enterprises, including
statistical, veterinary and, most i'm
portant of all, national medical SER
vices One of the reproaches constant
ly brought by the government against
the zemstvo is that it employs out
siders-clerks. statisticians. teachers,
physicians and other representatives
of the liberal professions who form an
imposing army of revolutionary work.
ers. Altho unenfranchised they none
the less acquire the character of MEM
bers of the zemstvo and exercise great
influence among the people. In JUS
tice it must be said that these men
the third estate as they are called
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1905-02-27
Startling But 7rue.

People the world over We're Mortified
on learning of the burning of Chi
cago theater in which nearly six hum
dred people lost their lives, yet more
than five times this number, or over
5000 people died from pneumonia i'll
Chicago during the same ,ear, with
scarcely a passing notice. Every one
of these cases of pneumonia resulted
from a cold and could have been pre-
vented by the timely use of Chamber
lain's Cough Remedy. A great many
who had every reason to fear pneumo-
mia have warded it off by the prompt
use Of this remedy. The following is
an instance of this sort: TOO much
cannot be said in favor of Chamber
lain's Cough Remedy, and especially
for colds and influenza. I know that
it cured my daughter, Laura, of Sc
we're cold, and I believed saved her life
when she was threatened with pneu-
monia." w. d. Wilcox, Logan, New
York. Sold by all druggists.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1905-02-27
TOOK A STRAW VOTE.
Interesting Experiment in Restaur

Interesting Experiment in a Restaur-
An advertising agent. representing
q prominent New York magazine,
while. on recent western trip, was
dining one evening in a PittSburg res
taura.nt.
While waiting for his order he
glanced over his newspaper and not
iced the advertisement of a we'll known
dyspepsia preparation, Stuarts Dys-
pepsia Tablets. AS he himself was
regular user of the tablets, he began
specializing as to how many of the
other travelling men in the dining room
were also friends of the popular rem
edy for Indigestion.
He says: I counted twenty-th three
men at the tables and in the hotel OF
flee took the trouble to interview
them and was surprised to learn that
nine of the twenty-three made prac'
tice of taking one or two of Stuart S
Dyspepsia Tablets after each meal.
One of them told me he had suf-
ferei SO much from stomach trouble
that at one time he had been Obliged
to Quit the road, but since using Stu
arts Dyspepsia Tablets had been en-
tirely free from Indigestion, but he
continued their use. especially while
travelling, on account of irregularity OF
meals and because like all travelling
mer he was often obliged to eat VIII u
he could get and not always what he
wanted.
Another, who looked the picture of
health said he never ate meal With
out taking Stuart Tablet afterWard
because he could eat what he pleased
and when he pleased without fear of
sleepness night or any other trouble.
Still another used them because he
was subject to gas on stomach, caus-
ing pressure on heart and lungs, short
ness of breath and distress in chest.
which he no longer experienced since
using the tablets regularly.
Another claimed that Stuart's Dys-
persia Tablets was the only safe rem
edy he had ever found for sour stom-
act and acidity. He had formerly used
cornmon soda to relieve the trouble,
but the tablets were much better and
safer to use.
After smoking, drinking or other ex-
gans, nothing restores the stomach to
healthy, wholesome condition so
effectually as Stuarts Tablets.
sstuart's Dyspepsia Tablets contain
the. natural digestives, pepsin, diastase,
which every weak stomach lacks. as
we'll as nux, hydrastin and yellow par
lila, and can be safely relied on as a
radical cure for every form of poor
digestion. Sold by druggists every
where.
Evening times-Republican. [volume] (Marshalltown, Iowa) 1890-1923, 1905-02-27
Times 92rpubira, 9llarsraln 1nma Fphruarp H. 1905

are the INSTRUMENTATION Of all chat is
strong, energetic and busness-like III
Russia And the failure of the govern
ment to bring these men to its SIDE
is Il great mistake
Judging by results, and ignorant OIL
the causes, bureaucracy resorted TO
EVERY means of olfense and defense,
among these being an attempt to offset
parochial against village schools.
This has nothing in common with the
conflict between religion and state
education in France, for instance. Lay
schools in Russia are all compelled by
the established programme TO devote
considerable time to religious instruc-
ton. and. moreover. the Russian people
are so devout that school without re-
lieiou would be foredoomed to failure.
So the government had To resort TO
purely religious schools in its fight
against schools that We're thre -fourlhs
religious. This strange idea would be
inexplicable if we did not remember
that it germed within the bureaucracy
of st Petersburg, which is totally UNI
acquainted with the people or their
lives. and draws its conclusions from
official reports.
The government hoped to find IN
the mobiles Il conservative element
which should relieve it of all APP
prehensions from the elective institu-
ton But the reformed ZemstVo ala
not display the slightest change of pol
icy. and the late Minister Plehve found
to his establishment that the sophisti-
Gated body was just as resolute an OPP
ponent as its predecessor. III may
even be confidently asserted that had
Plehve done the very reverse, had he
increased the proportion of peasants ne
would have done much more to achieve
the desired result For The peas 'nts
would have even gone the length OF
seeking to apply Henry Georges
NATURALIZATION of land, but they
would certainly have remained indlfter-
ent to POLITICAL rights. If we are to
Judge by the rapidty with which the
large land-holdings of the mobiles are
passing into the hands of the peasants
it may be presuend that this transfer
would have materially facilitated IL
normal evolution, unattended by any
catastrophe. The fact is. however,
that our government fears nothing so
much as AN agrarian movement. Ev-
erything is sacrificed to this self-im-
posed boyle, the people are sedulously