Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1905-05-19
NEW YORK FASHIONS


New York, May 1.-THE fingers Of
Oriental embroiders must be flying to
keep pace with the demand for their
wares. The vogue for all kinds of Ori-
entail embroideries is in no way lessen.
ing, and so strenuous has it become
that even the upholstery departments
are sacked of tapestries that in motive
and color and glitter resemble eastern
stiteheries. Only bit may be needed
at time, but bits tell when multitudes
are after them.
Girls are doing their own embroidery,
often in Oriental fashion, as they have
not done it before in an age Needle
work departments are we'll aware Of
the craze and are stocked with ready.
to-wear waists, belts, stocks, collars,
VS. and what not Colored embroidery
on white linen touches up tailormades
wonderfully. II is most prevalent in
collar and cuff sets prepared either for
bodies or coats. ut the individual touch
is always desirable.
Elbow sleeves are all but universal
in all costumes intended for formal oc.
casions-in everything, in fact, but ac.
tual walking suits The walking skirt
is emphatically short-two, three or
four inches, according to becomingness,
from the floor. No remnant of bal.
loon Offset is left, but width, little cur
tailed, falls into soft folds. Elaborate
tailormades have skirts that touch the
ground or more all around, length that
entails a shutting gait unless one would
break ones neck, or worse, disgrace
oneself by awkward tripping
Persons who read the dissertations on
the return Of mantlos, which filed the
fashion journals a little while ago, and
who say the brave showing Of opening
displays where mantillas and all their
kin were back in brave numbers, are
wondering where all the voluminous
sleeve wraps, rufled and puffed, have
gone. They are not gone, as fact, but
only carriage folks seem to take to
them.
For the woman who walks, or the
carriage woman when she walks, there
is nothing so winsome as the bolero and
Eton. These little jackets of modest
lineage and proportion have quite put
into the background, for all but car.
riage use, the assertive long wraps Of
distinguished memory.
As the season wakes, the little silk
wraps finished with ruches and puffs,
will be more seen. They fall in line
beautifully with the soft folds Of full
skirts. The only argument against them
is their matronly air, which women of
the present day object very much TO
assuming
Not only the dressmaker and her
staff. but the home sewer as well, is
putting in a multitude Of stitches these
days. The return Of puffs, rufIles and
frills Of all sorts and kinds multiplies
the work on a gown. Not for many a
year have biases and straight bands
been reeled Off by mothers and daugh.
ters az the rate Of this year, as their
edges have been "blind hemmed" and
bound and shirred. There are things
the sewing machine will never do and
the finish Of silk and wool rufiles and
folds is among them.
Such host Of faneiful bretelles and
girdles and sashes are nsed, and the
work they entail is exorbitant. But
when II comes to finishing their edges
with double ruffles the woman who has
no gold mine' at her feet must do the
work herself or meet a dressmaker's
bill that is too high for her purse. No
the dressmaker's bills have
gone up. Take the ming silk and wool
suits, and even the linen ones, this
spring The woman who has had no ex-
perienee in such details gasps at the