The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-10-09


 whole forming a pleasing border ef- feet. On either side of the jacket was TOW of brilliant buttons matching the gown on the outer rim, with darker shades and a round black spot in the centre, very much resembling eyes. 1 With this gown was worn an extremely effective girdle of many folds of satin the shade of the gown. The girdle was very wide, the folds interlacing down the centre of the back, giving beeom- l ing curve to the waistline.
 The three-quarter-length coat Of black broadclOth gown was also made with a round fiat collar, about which there was a touch of French blue panne velvet outlining tiny vest of white 1 broadcloth, heavily embroidered in three shades of blue. The sleeves were. full at the top and plaited into wide i turned-back cuff, upon which the vel vet was correspondingly used. The skirt was gored and entirely un- 1 trimmed save for five small box-plaits 1 set quite far apart, unconfined and far | ing at the bottom. Around the inch and a half wide hem were five rows of stitching.
 A French steamer which arrived from Havre last week numbered among 1 it's cabin passengers some thirty dress makers and milliners, bringing with them two hundred or more immense 1 trunks containing the result of their Paris shopping. It required the undi- ! vided attention of twenty-five customs inspectors to look after this luggage alone. Several small French shops and a few department stores were await ing these purchases before announcing the date of the openings. Many Of them now have their imported milli- nery on exhibition The handsomest of these hats seen were entirely of white, to be worn with the still popular all 1 white gowns and wraps for evening. One of these was a white moire silk sailor with a rather broad brim. Around the crown was a simple rouche trim ming of white and silver tulle. Cover ing the high bandeau in the back was a dainty arrangement of tulle and sil- yer bow-knots. To be worn with this I hat there was a fuli tulle boa with sil- yer streamers at the throat and charming little huff to match
 A smart turban was so entirely en- veIoped in one long ostrich feather that but little else was to be seen. The crown, however, was made of white uncut velvet, around which the feather was wound, falling off the brin1 and over the hair on one side. To give height near the front, was very beau- tiful black and white aigrette. Among the less perishable colored hats was titled round shape of deep violet velvet, with wreath around the crown of single velvet clematis in vio- let, orchid, and lavender shades. This hat was raised extremely high in the back, the. bandeau being covered with 4 violet tulle, exactly matching the hat, a bow of violet velvet ribbon with long and short loops holding the tulle in place.
 I A very beautiful gold brown felt with velvet facing was entirely covered with a, superb brown bird. The slender head of the bird rested over the hair in front, with the wings fiatly outspread and the tail dropping over the back of the hair Concealing the bandeau were loops of brown velvet ribbon in three distinct -rosettes, with one long and short loeS made of velvet cut on the I bias ina soft shade of old blue grouped with the brown loops on one side. 1 On some of the more practical hats were displayed wings, breasts and tails so fearfully and wonderfully made that no bird, whether foreign or domestic, would recognize them as a part of the bird anatomy. Nevertheless, large wings carry with them a certain stiff style, in spite of their unnatural color and construction.
 Little chemisettes," the Delineator says, tucked or lace-trimmed, and sometimes embroidered, are more in vogue than fuckers, and almost every gown, whether for morning or evening wear, is fashioned to accommodate this dainty feminine fancy. Close-ftting, i long cuffs of lower sleeve portions are frequently made to match the chemi- sette.
 "Scarfs of soft materials are the in- evitable accompaniment of the evening coat. and add much to the charms of fonininity. The Spanish mantilla, or more properly toquilla, is prominent among these dainty trifles, and the plain and figured chiffons, tulles and nets, point d'esprit, and Oriental wov- en fabrics, fringed, frilled or plainly l hemn1ed, are Squally favored.
 Among the accessories that make or mar the costume, there are girdles, sashes, and neck fixings of all sorts. Everything is essentially dainty, and handwork distinguishes almost every pretty trife. '-New York Evening Post.