The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1905-04-05

Copyright. 1905, by R. F. Ayers


III HERE are two delightful features
about the intricately made tea
gown sketched today. One is
the very unusual flowing sleeve and the
other is the princess effect of the front.
Fancy the combination of the negligee
comfort, which is the very foundation
Of such a house gown, and the long
unbroken lines of this one piece style
of dress. But the pleasantest alliance
mas been effected and every woman
who has let her eyes be drawn to this
pretty creation has uttered the most
lavish praises that could possibly be
bestowed upon feminine attire.
Instead of mousseline de sole, of
which the majority of tea gowns are
being made, the one under discussion
Is built of a soft clinging chiffon satin
which possesses a delightful sheen and
is specially attractive in the pale blue
tint selected in this instance. Looked
at casually, the model appears to be a
thing OF vertical tucks and alternating
entire deuX of rather wide white chan
tilly lace. From the bust to the feet
the gown presents no unbroken line; it
is fitted in at the sides, and the back
follows the sweep more characteristic
of a vatican style than empire. The
chantilly is not pure white, but a rich
and mellow ivory tint which looks well
bands are brought up from the bottom
where they are set wide. enough apart
to allow of wedge shaped insertion
of the tucked satin. Their conveyance
Is so gradual that they do not meet
until just about at the waist and then
the two pieces are Joined TO form
point at the bust. There are long strips
of graduated clusters of tucks run in
blue satin and placed at the sides of
these center strips of lace, and this ar
rangement is repeated in the rest of the
gown, except in the back. where the
chantilly is omitted and the satin is put
in full TO form graceful train.
While the back of the tea gown is
rather plain compared with the front.
it is decidedly negligee. The wide
lace collar or cape covers the head of
the vatican fullness and forms the top
of the princess front. This collar is
shaped like a bib in the center, then il
is cut up each side and makes the same
square pieces over the shoulders. The
allover lace is finished on the edge with
several folds of pale blue chiffon
shirred very close together.
Where the gown is brought into the
figure at the sides il is not quite tight
fitting, but follows thee curve of the
waist. Bands of the lace are inserted
vertically. and just in the center the
satin falls into a jabot much narrower
in .the middle and sloping from there
down to the sides. The necB has no
high finish or stock, but is simply trim
med with a tiny ruching of blue chif-
fon and then a weaving of baby ribbon
around that.
So many women dislike the long
pointed angel sleeves that to them par
tcularly is this model recommended.
1t has tie advantage of being loose.
flowing and graceful. but does not come
under the head of the angel variety.
From under the long dropping cape.
which falls far over the shoulder, n
glimpse of the tucked upper portion of
the blue satin sleeve is gained. The
tucks are run in merely to secure
enough fullneSs to give a graceful
roundness TO the elbow puff. Then
comes a straight band of the wide
chantilly lace, and on the edge of this
is very deep not too full flounce cut
square across the bottom, making the
whole sleeve the same length all round.
At the inside seam this fiounce section
is slashed up TO the band. which Is set
on the bottom of the puff and the chan
lilly is applied fiat here and across the
bottom.
When satin ribbon and lace insertion
the same width are built UP in alter
mating stripes to make an entire tea
gown, a very pretty effect is secured by
having the stripes run vertically in the
body part of tht gown. growing dag
onal as they reach the full empire back.
Then a heading of lace is set on eigh-
teen inches or so above the bottom
and upon this is arranged a shaped
fiounce of lace and ribbon strips put TOT
gether to give a bias effect. If the edge
is cut up in points, then a frill of lace
is added which, of course, follows this