New-York tribune., 1905-11-19
No Medium Sized HATS i'm Paris
Chapesus Large Small-Few French Women Can
Wear Latter and Look Well.

Paris November 10.
Small tocues and round small brimmed walking
hats are immensely stylish and popular. but they
cannot be said to be universally becoming. srnah
hat needs small regular features. the type OF face
that is described mignonne. and framing IL
lot of exouisitelv coifured hair. Frenchwomen
have plenty hair, and, a rule IT Is perIectly
arranged but they rarely have small features; IN
fac1 the high and rather bony type OF race
is the acknowledged standard OF French arlsto-
cratic good looks This sort of face demands
more aggressive and decided framing than that
furnished by any sort Of small chapeau
The small hat viii probably not have long life
here and even now there plenty OF large hats
70 be seen The other afternoon at the Ritz, when
there was a particularly smaruy dressed crowd
quite half hats were very large, some OF
them turning up smartly on one side with iot Oh
small feathers The rest were for the most part
email and simply trimmed with some odd garnture
or chic arrangement of hat brim.
Judged by all external signs It might be mid
winter Carriages and motor cars are lined three
deep I'd and down the Rue de la Paix. and the
tables are so universally engaged ahead al the
Ritz that chance conner has little hope of securing
q place after 40. The weather. too, is SO
cold that furs. even fur coats. are necessary
great many velvet suits are worn with stoles OF
sable The new feature OF the stoles is that they
ere shaped a trihc in the back and trimmed with
clusters OF tails and often lined with some second
fur A fur coat that made sensation in a
fashionable tearoona the other day OF chin
chilla cut In Directoire fashion. Another coat was
On the same lines but shorter and made OF black
broadtan trimmed with embroidery Of gold
thread This sounds almost too theatrical for good
taste but the gold the dull kind and the en-
broidery done with exquisite niceness The
chinchila coat was accompanied by hat In which
the fur played q prominent part The soft crown
was of chinchilla and the brim was Of light blue
tulle turned up in the back with cache peigne
OF blue feathers
There has been so little change in the silhouette
of the figure that might imagine that velvet
Of his ull
winter but there sufficient changes in detail
TO differentiate the two styles. Then too. the
princess and corselet shapes are so prevalent that
in form they seem to be included In almost
every costume.
The small checked velvets exceedingly pretty.
but dressy plain surfaces. for the designs
are much like those shown in woods and cloths for
morning tailored suits. An example or a checked
gray wool in two shades has overskirt arrange
rnent that is novel. The underskirt is laid in
cluster of side peats in the back and the overskfrt
opens there. dropping on each side of the pleats
The overskirt covers the sides and front OF the
skirt although 1t sashed in front 1t is bordered
ali about with wide mohair braid.
A model that is repeated over and again is
the high corselet skirt. with some form of loose
boloro peerine top falling over the bust. A
novel form of this has also the suggestion of an
overskrt. The skirt is pleated and stitched to form
the corselet and for some distance over the hips
In loose box pleats and near the bot
OF the skirt these over like pressed
1abot and lost in the fulness of the skirt. This
model is carried out in smoke gray velvet. The
boero is inset with diamonds Of gray gupure and
the sides to show the lining Of gray satin
with q velvet design in relief
Another example of the double skirt is in cos
tune of wine coored cashmere trimmed with a
curious of wool embroidery and cords. The
tunic overskirt opens in front show the entire
front breadth of the skirt, and is slashed three
times each side. The slashings are held together
by cord ornaments which come from raised
broidery done in wool. the color of the cashmere.
e.
menter1e ornaments The bodice has a pelerine
like The skirt. The pelerine makes rather full
of gold lace, and there is little yoke and choker
OF gOld lace The lace is dun gold What brigh.
braidins serge tailored suits. On elaborate
Fur trimming promises to rage this winter. and
soIae Of the Best examples Of velvet costumes have
ohangeable gray and pale green velvet has a bolero
deep Collar but with G tabs faing 70 the waist st'f IN
e eu fSs RSF t f GGse d,a seeyss
g the elbows fashion that is returning to favor:
trimming save three deep tucks taken in the stuff
A white cloth gown has also an interesting. use
et fur The skirt II pieated ho Nth ma narrow taber
pleats being free from the waist: The tablier is
sinnre and Bands Of zibene The bodice has
eoIlar, short in the back put falling over The bust
made with a high. turnover collar Of zbene.
bordered WITH zi6eiine and are finished Out by an
underseeve OF heavy guipure large zibelne
Every department of dress is so elaborate this
wear that complicated and much decorated bIouses
are only to be expected The foundation for many
trimmed with straps Of cloth or with cut out APP
rications OF velvet. a dainty blouse Of white Irish
lace has square collar with loose tab sides OF the
hesyY raised lace. In this the pattern is en-
phasized by tiny ruffies of Liberty ribbon and & the
sides OF the blouse trimmed with double lines
of rosettes of the ribbon There is a. new
trimming that suggests the ladders that kinder
Earten children make with strips OF paper IL is
Gone in stitched bands Of satin and used as
rule 10 decorate blouses of thin wool.
Heavy fannels little used this season, and
morning shirts made of cashmere and
thin woods. often showing fancy weavings- The
summer fashion Of closing blouses In the back
teerns TO endure. simple blouse with the fasten-
Ing behind ls in white albatross cloth made with
vest OF horizontal tgcks and stitched bretees run
ming over the shoulders. The sleeve Is moderately
full. with 6 deep cuff the elbow.
Belts are fnconepicuouE, but the cannot be
said OF belt buckles. Some of the Empire buckles
IN ever gilt ere six TO eight inches across and
worn With the Empire skirts that end under the
bust As contrast 10 the short waists so gen.
orally seen. when the more usual waist line APP
pears * seems TO be ahnorrnaIly long The habit
cults and fitted b&sques be moulded
figures with exceptionally long slender waists
Corsets 10 be With costume of this sort sre
cifreren, IN line and shape from those worn with
n Directotrs COSTUME