Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-06-18
se.her a. tn. wsls. line, ana then only /.

gether at the waist line. ana then only
very narrow belt is needed
With the tea gown thai has the long
prfncesse effect at the back and the fronts
die Ia an addition. slipped through the side
seams and brought we'll down In 'front.' so
that the ends hang down TO the very hem
OF the front breadths. Combining chiffon
and crepe de chine Is an effective fashion
for this style of gown. and 1t 10 extraor-
binary how attractive the combination is
the underskirt or petticoat which shows In
front being made of the chiffon. while the
body OF the gown Is of the crepe de chine
On the chiffon can be en.redsux OF lace.
border either Of Persian hand work or en-
broidery on the material itself The waist,
cut open at the neck and having elbow
sleeves showing, II so desired. undersleeves
of lace. Is extremely becoming; and there
1 can be note of the picturesque intro
duced IL that also Is becoming to the
wearer.
| In other words while a general outline of
style is demanded In all such gowns the
becoming must not be lost sight OF and the
! lines of the figure must be consulted. for
on stout woman too much material and
too much accordion plating does not look
graceful, whereas slender woman looks
especially well In the gown OF the same
design.
Among the luxuries of this season are
the house gowns of lace and muslin-lin-
gerie gowns so called-that have made
their appearance in such quantities this
year. Dotted swiss, embroidery batiste,
English open work embroidery. and allover
lace form the basis of these gowns. which
are most exquisite in appearance and ex-
tremely costly. The lace entredeux Is used
on all the different materials while the
rows of. hemstitching taken in connection
with the lace give light and airy appear
ance that looks very summertime and at
tractive. The batiste in Its natural color
which is a paler tint than pongee, but Of
the same hue-seems especially IN demand.
1t is trimmed with lace, either white or of
the same coloring. and then ribbons of
some becoming color are seen in the girdle
or sash; for sashes are much In fashion
and both plain and figured ribbons are
used.
Such gowns require further expense on
account of the petticoats to be worn with
them. These must needs be made UP with
falls and ruffles of embroidery and lace,
and yet the whole effect Is so satisfactory
and the gown so useful that most women
think II best TO economic in some other
direction and to have this gown the prin-
cipai one of the wardrobe.
Tea gowns are ndescrbabIy attractive,
and while those intended for winter can
be made of heavier fabric and more elab-
orately trimmed they are not more ex-
summer. Again, lace and embroidery must
needs be used, and the amount that can
be used is almost incalculable A long loose
coat fitted in at the back and with straight
front is the effect given at first glance at
many of the newest models. The gown
itself is made of fiounces and rufiies of
lace or muslin. as the case may be. so that
the coat opens over front OF the lace.
Chiffon draped over the waist in front in
soft folds and chiffon 1ounces on the skirt
showing under the coat of lace or
-broidery, preferably the lace, is a favorite
fashion. While for those who prefer en-
broidery to- lace, the skirt of embroidered
founces, one deep, one or three of medium
width and then the long back made entirely
of the allover embroidery. Is both smart
and effective.
The embroidered muslins and chiffons.
simply the embroidered polka dot. make
up charmingly both in white and colors,
and marvelously good effects can be OBJ
tanned with the dotted muslins made up
over colored lining at comparatively small
expense, remembering, however, that there
must be a lot of lace used to have the
gown look as the latest fashion demands.
There Is, fortunately, great variety In i'm
itatton lace. and 1t Is not necessary in order
to secure an attractive design to have 1t
too expensive.
AccordIon-plaited tea gowns are always
In fashion for summer. They are made OF
the thinnest possible materials, but the
new weaves of silk are not thought inn
possible. so that In India silk, for instance.
there are more made up than usual at this
season. The figured and plain silk pongees
are not considered too thin and fragile and
they stand much harder wear than would
be thought possible. The striped effects are
not smart the plain, but there are
some designs combining the two that are
most charming and in which the extremely
light colors are singularly attractive. 1t
is a mistake, as a rule. to try the dark or
too bright colors for gowns of this descrip-
ton, especially in summer wardrobe and
indeed, the all white ones are this season
taking the lead in popular favor when ex-
pense does not have to be considered. 1t
must be admitted that the all white need
cleaning more often. but then the cleaning
is sure to be satisfactory, and there Is no
danger of the color fading.