The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1905-04-13

costume Is eXemplified in the above
sketch, which is developed in a French
blue broadcloth. The front of the skirt
olscloses double box plat reaching
down its entire length and widening
gracefully from belt to hem. Over the
hips and around the back the material
is arranged in small plaits. which are
carefully stitched down for a distance
or eight or ten inches. Below this
point the skirt appears to be very full
II is cut the usual walking length.
AND four or fiye inches above the ex-
treme edge comes an elaborate braid
ing done by hand. The trimming be-
gins and ends al the fold of the double
oox plated front panel. and il con-
tinues on round the back without in
terruption. For the main part IN is
composed of three pieces of very hand
some black silk fancy braid, not less
than three-quarters of an inch wide
dhese are put on in a slightly waved
line and are broken at regular inter-
walls by wider design, in which the
horizontal bands form scrolls Inter
twlDed with the braids are stitched
straps of the cloth the same width "a
The other applied trimming, and where
the design is broadest and most intrf-
cate there Is sunburst embroidery of
BLACK silk with the rays tipped with
tiny trimming buttons. Altogether this
decoration on the skirt occupies not
less than ten inches Of the skirt length
The boiero is smart and is Just what
one would expect TO find completing
the costume. There is a good deal OF
the fancy braid. and Bit of contrast
ing trimming relieves the somber COM
oination Of blue and black. The short
coat is collarless and fastens down the
center 10 the front Each side is
trimmed with a very narrow bit of
oriental embroidery, in which there are
touches OF green and eastern blue This
trimming curves round the neck. and
appears also at the wrist
From the shoulder seam three pieces
OF the fancy black silk trimming braid
start on downward course. the outer
one ending in a scroll toward the arm
mole, the middle one coming a trife
lower on the coat. and the third curry
ing low over the bust and then sween-
ing suddenly over the vest to continue
on IN straight line each side to the
Sotloin OF the oolero; then il makes a
turn toward the side seam. Just back
of the oriental vest black soutacbe
braid is put on. to form very shallow
scahops. and inside OF these are tiny
rows Of black silk buttons following the
curved edge
This chic bolero ends in a slight point
In front, and from just a little forward
OF the unoerarm seam il begins To
ali 6dAGEIc- Inc ClOln
Is ntted in such way that III turns
under, but shows no fuliness whatever
The back Of the coat fits as smoothlv
as though II We're a tight one. buf n
has distinctive blouse The sleeve
which goes with this modish garment
Is none too full. and yet il is not SO
severe as coat sleeve. There is some
fullness AT the top. which IS held in
below the elbow by several vertical
tucks or plaits stitched fiat. These az
tend TO the wrist. and have over Them
braid design reproducing in a small
way the trimming motif The touch of
color is seen on the edge of the cuff.
A girdle made OF folds of black satin
Is attached 10 the bOlero and serves 10
give the blouse good contour.
An 1ndistinct tan checked material
made with a box plated skirt had an
elaborate brown braid trimming set on
the bottom like the above sketch
There was more Of the same braid nut
on IN fancy pattern on the bloused
coat, and the front was even more
trimmed than the one just described.
Instead Of an oriental vest this tan cos
tune showed one of cream white
coarsely woven linen. hand embroi-
dered in delicate pastel shades. The
sleeve ended abruptly at the elbow
with "A cuff. which was wide around.
but not very deep. Upon this was
more Of the braid and a bit OF pastel
SILK worked in here and there