davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23
PARIS FASHIONS.
Special Correspondence of The Star.


PARIS, April s. 1905.
The peace commission which recently met
here in Paris was the subject of talk among
group of clever people at a noted salon
the other evening. They were compliment
Ing the French ambassador to England, NJ.
Cambon, upon the tactful manner in which
he had brought about this meeting in Paris.
From this specific case the conversation
drifted into a symposium of the tactful
person in general. We all know many for
tunate persons who are gifted with the ca
pacity of always saying and doing the right
thing at the right moment who are spoken
of as 'charmingly tactful" And, on the
other hand, equally well known, though
not as we'll appreciated, are those persons
who with the best intentions say and do
the wrong thing as to the manner born.
Training one member of the group in
sisted, lis the whole secret of success but
rhe general verdict was that the tactful
person is born, not made, and that original
aptitude would assert itself in one born and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23
Gowns and the Law.

The women in America who are permit.
ted to wear frocks with trains as long as
they like will be astonished to learn that in
Germany trailing gown Is tabooed. An
American lady was accosted in one or the
parks in a German city by policeman,
who babe her hold up her gown, inasmuch
as the trailing damaged the gravel and
also, he added, did the gown no good. She
demurred, pointing out that, in her opinion,
the damage to the gown was Of little conse-
auence At once the policeman produced
a formidable looking book in which in
equally formidable German it was stated
that 10 let dress drag on the pathway
was an offense against the law.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23
A Summer Toilet.

Delightfully."- cool and summary is this
gown of mauve wolfe. The becoming skirt
is laid in groups of small tucks about the
waist and hangs full to the knee, where
ii meets a deep ruffie. This fiounce is gath
cred several times and Joined to the upper
skirt with double bias heading gathered
very full.
The pointed girdle is of mauve ribbon
interlaced in front to form the dip. Above
this the material is laid around the figure
in plaits. From the shoulders are plated
bretelIes which cross the bodice just under
the bust. They are shirred over the shoul-
ders in several rows with deep heading.
The dainty little short sleeves finish with
lace above ruffies and puffs of the wolfe.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23
SOME DAINTY EASTER TRIPLES

brown shades The Rue de la Paix mil
liners are launching hats of a bright cerise,
almost geranium, color. Periwinke and
a paler shade of blue. bright and dark
navy, pink, mauve, brown, bronze, leaf
green and panama are shades that figure in
the hats of the season.
The so-called picture creation is non-eX-
istent, although there are exclusive mod
istes and wearers who love these beautiful
old lines which are in themselves always
good. But even here there is tendency to
turn up the brim in the back where there
is a good deal of width and fill in the open
ing with an abundance of feathers. The
fronts of these hats are almost devoid Of
trimming which for the most part consists
of small bow or several rosettes of rib
bon.
The veil is an important adjunct and does
much in the making or marring of per-
feet contour. With the small hats clear
yelling or one with Russian mesh is most
worn, the color matching when possible
that of the chapeau. The wells are modish-
ly worn just above the chin.
/ did not start to write about the ma jor
articles of dress, but of the minor sundrieS,
which include such pretty tritieS belts,
girdles, buckles and collar and cuff sets
Indeed, nothing so large a hat was to be
my subject, though the minute toques
have touched upon are small that they
might with a little stretch of imagination
come under this head.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23
To Get Rid of Mice.

Smoke the mouse trap before placing it.
for the mice are much more apt to enter it
when this precaution is taken. After the
cheese Is securely fastened to the hook hold
the trap over an open gas jet or lamp
until the cheese is well toasted. In this
way the odor of the cheese permeates the
wood and attracts the mice, and the smoked
trap proves very enticing. A tiny mouse
hole can be stuffed with soap, and this the
mice will not disturb. A large hole can be
stopped by crushing piece of newspaper
saturating it with turpentine and sprinkline
il with red pepper. Mouse holes stuffed In
this way have been left undisturbed for
wears
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

the effect is of plain band. II is finished
either with a square kid buckle or one OF
rolled gold The newest belt is of leather
combined with MORE faille silk. The
silk is laid under the leather, which Is then
punched in eyelet work or strapped with
the leather. In some cases the leather
binds the silk belt top and bottom and
runs I'm narrow bands along its length. In
white this cut kid work is very stunning.
producing somewhat the effect of ivory
bas-relief.
Belts embroidered in Chinese designs are
handsome. Particularly attractive is a red
one. A yellow dragon belt is the coveted
possession of a modish girl and she is 60
ing to wear II with the swaggerest of her
white linen gowns which will also boast an
embroidered design of this historic mon
ster.
Since all shades of vio,et are so fashion,
able, the pretty mauve belt is in evidence,
made of alternate strips of leather and
silk. 1t is shaped in dip at the front
and fastens with a strap.
All of the more elaborate belts are nm
ished with gold or jeweled buckles, and IN
many instances the gems are the real
thing"
On most Of the linen belts are to be seen
oval buckles of mother-of-pearl. Goth OF
gold and silver are manipulated into
charming belts and girdles on evening
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23
The Common Road to Power.
81. G. Holland.

81. G. Holland
All who become men of power reach
their estate by the same self-mastery, the
same self adjustment to circumstances the
same voluntary exercise and discipline of
their faculties, and the same working of
their life up to and into their high ideals
OF life.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

Some of the little accessories are really
the most conspicuous features of the toilet
and make more toward smartness than any
other adjunct. Belts and girdles are per-
haps the leaders in this line. The old IA
vorites in crushed kid, leather of all colors
and embroidered linen come to us ag ain
this season. but the manufacturers have
improved upon the finish of the Old ma
terials, and the designers have surpassed
themselves in artistic decoration. A new
belt that appears in all the modish colors IS
made of glove kid. 1t is of the crush order
but wrinkles so closely to the form that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

ing cuff that finishes the sleeve is made en-
suite, These little chemisettes are always
transparent, and the collars are high under
the ears, the familiar little rods of feather
bone being used for support.
X
Elaborate in trimming while maintaining
a corset simplicity of outline are the latest
skirts. The best of them are either shirred
to the band, or else plated; in many cases,
the plaits are not stitched down-they are
not even pressed in many instances the
softness of the material adjusting the fit
over the hips and giving that clinging eff
feet that is much admired in the newest
models.
All of the trimming is spaced between
the knee and the hem; and ii is only for
the tall and very slender girl that the skirt
trimming is carried above the knee. Little
pinched and plated ruffles, quillings of
silk or ribbon. nuns tucks and folds, grad
uated rows of velvet ribbon of bias silk
or velvet folds, all of these are used for
trimmings; and in pretty nearly all in
stances, one is used to supplement the
other. For example a gown of one-seam
crepe de chine has "a skirt that measures
ten yards around the hem, and the entire
space from knee to hem is filled with an
intricate design in cut out velvet some
what after the familiar Trojan pattern.
Every edge of this is piped in black satin
and ruched with a black gauZe ribbon, the
effect of the black upon the vivid rose color
of the gown being particularly chic.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

The new rose shades, which are q cross
between American Beauty and cardinal red,
were employed on a very striking looking
hat, which could be worn by brunette
with clear complexion. The hat was
built of lace straw, fitted tightly to the
hair in the back. The upturned brim wa g
faced all the way round within an inch or
two of its edge with rose leaves in a soft
shade of green laid on in sheath fashion
Below this, close to the hair We're massed
roses shading from pale to deepest red but
always on the tone shown in the straw
This hat had no trimming on the crown
at all.
For wear with a lowered organdie gown
there comes hat that is veritable rain
bow of pastel shades. The crown is laid
in tiny folds of many-colored maline, show
Ing such pastel shades as blue, violet green,
yellow and pink, overlapping so that it
gives the same effect as an organdie frock
stamped with many pale-hued flowers. The
brim is completely buried in pastel-green
leaves interspersed with primroses In pastel
pink and blue.
The hat which shows a single flower in
its garnture is indeed rare, and a round
fiat sailor raised TO a coQuettsh angle in
the back is a fair type of the present-day
trimming. The crown was hidden by sprays
of wistaria in violet pink and yellowfsh
white, while the bandeau above the hair in
the back was banked with blush roses.
In the matter of suit hats, the Tyrolean
shape, with low, broad crown and charac-
teriStic upward sweep on the left SIDE is a
most popular medium-siZed hat AS a rule
these show, from straw to feather, a gentle
graduation of coloring that is almost self
tone.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23


At the railroad station, too, it is often i'm
possible to think. of a sensible or opportune
remark to make to a departing friend.
Conversation is too public to admit of con-
fidential talk and, having attended to the
baggage and supplied the traveller with lit
final departure is hailed with relief on both
sides. But how differently should feel
if we were supplied with brilliant epigrams
to pour forth at the eleventh hour for en-
vious fellow travellers to digest on the jour
ney!
The suggestion really seems a good one.
We are inundated with literature attempt
ing to regulate behavior upon different oc-
casions, but a handbook of useful sugges-
lions for specific times would meet a long
felt want.
Talking about social amenities brings one
around to the WORKOUT custom of donnlng
a new bonnet at Easter. This year the fes-
tival is so late in the season that even II
this idea was not as dead the dodo we
should have been wearing the spring cha
peau for at least a month. The selection
of hat is more difficult this year than
usual for, however much we may love the
vagaries and changes of fashion it will be
dame too blindly in the choice of headgear.
The Partisan designers have this season
distinctly ignored the laws of proportion IN
millinery, but later adaptations of these
extreme styles have been very successful.
The ultra hat is the smallest piece OF mead
covering imaginable and is really part OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

bred on a desert island. For the benefit of
tactless individuals and those less seriously
afflicted a bright member of the company
suggested the compilation of handbook of
short conversations suitable for occasions
when speech fails either through lack of
originality, excess of emotion or some other
paramount cause. For instance, what a
boon to the tactless would be a collection
of timely utterances brought together for
use during that bad quarter of an hour
when waiting for a late guest at a formal
dinner party!
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

For instance, model in reseda green
straw was encircled with pleated chiffon
disposed around the crown in a shell pat
tern, the chiffon being just a shade lighter
than the braid The underbrim was piped
with narrow fold of velvet the shade of
the chiffon, while the long feather which
swept over the left side of the brim down
to the hair in the back shaded from the
palest reseda green to the deepest.
This shape is also shown in the new
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

And now even the materials with which
one is accustomed to associate some idea
of body and weight are taking to them
selves all of the chiffon characteristics
that are so sought after-chiffon broad
CLOTH vicuna. mohair. henrietta. Sicilienne
and popin; and in the new guise they are
even more fascinating than they were in
their best days of old.
The silhouette of the fashionable figure
has changed much and subtiy in the last
few months: and the first warning note
anent the later fashions must take the cor
set into account. There is simply no use
whatsoever in trying TO make this Easter s
gown over last casters corset. The new
lines are far more tapering than the old
ones were; the waist is cleverly rounded and
Iengthened: and while the straight front
still maintains-may ii never go out of
styIet-the straight effect is confined to a
narrower area than before. There is a fas-
chatting little curve either side of the
front of the latest corset production that
was not there even a few short months
ago The American manufacturer now
keeps so closely up with the Partisan
STYLES and fashions that no sooner is a
new corset declared over there, and fash
ions built in accordance with it, than we
on this side of the Atlantic are put right
in touch with it.
The draped and closely fitted bodice is
the one that rules the hour. Closely and
almost tightly fitted is it; and yet the re-
suit must be one of a studied carelessness,
looseness that really does not exist The
lining is, of course. carefully boned and
fitted, and everything that can be done to
lengthen the waist line is called into play.
Then over this the drapery is arranged
and many of the leading couturieres expect
to arrange this on the customer herself,
and not trust il to a dummy figure. A
stitch here, "A pinch there, plait some
where else will make all the difference in
the world in the outline of the bodice, for
what will look pretty and chic one
figure will oftentimes look bulky and even
clumsy on another.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

The short sleeve is another fascinating,
but an expensive feature Of the Easter
models. calling it does for very long
gloves as the correct accompaniment. Even
on the latest coats the sleeves are not ex-
pected to run to full length-although this
must not be taken to indicate that the
regulation coat sleeve of the usual length
has been banished altogether But in the
DRESSER lines that prevail this season any
thing and everything that will take away
from the usual aspect of garment is APP
proved.
For the late spring and the early summer
days there are some of the most charming
effects in the new materials. these intended
to be worn without wraps; just a boa a
tour de cou or some little shoulder piece
being added at the last moment. these
rather as the finishing touch to the toilette
than for any warmth or protection that
they might afford
The coat bodice IS what the clever Paris
ienne selects often for this type of gown.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

gowns, but for smart tailored dresses the
most approved arrangement is to have the
gown material shaped into narrow belt
and fastened with leather buckle the
shade of the gown fabric. Gray suede belts
studded with steel nail heads, fastening
with Il butterfly buckle, are new and eff
fectve.
In lingerie neckwear the choice is almost
unlimited. ranging all the way from dainty
confectionS OF lace and embroidery to
coarse canvas worked in oriental effects,
Even kid is pressed into this service and
forms yoke around the neck of dainty
femninity. Sets of lawn and embroidery
are extremely pretty made with single
piece of rat her wide Swiss insertion trim
lawn and deep plated ruffe of the same
material at the bottom. The cuffs are car
ried out in the same way, with the order
of the plating reversed, the wide rufe be-
ing al the top and the narrow one a the
wrist. Another similar effect is g lined
with single lace-trimmed. plated rue at
the base of an anglaise broderie turnover
collar. The deep cuffs of anglaise are
adorned with the plating, which runs down
the sides, giving a smart finish to the
sleeves.
A stock of lawn resembling the old time
neckwear of the gentlemen of the old
school, is carried out in sheerest null and
ties in front with double bow with lace
trimmed. plated ends Very effective and
smart are sets of hemstitched collars and
cuffs finished with frilled lace. Irish point
makes attractive sets" which are per-
fectly straight bands depending upon the
exquisite pattern of the dentelle for their
beauty.
The fans of the season require a separate
letter, but the handsomest wind walters
are rather small. Those for evening use
covered with spangles in attractive de-
signs of lace embro dered with Louis
patterns and empire wreaths.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

as sheer and supple, as ''slinky' as one
small girl put it, they can possibly be
This of itself, is the explanation of the
marvellous increase in amount of material
needed; for. with the sheer voiles eoliennes,
crepes de Chine chiffon taffetas and the
like. six to ten yards at the hem OF the
skirt does not look any more than a four
ward width would do in those goods that
have more body and stiffness TO them.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

the coiffur,,. which the Partisan woman ar
ranges in the most attractive of Marcel
waves. tip-tilted plate tart of me-
dunn size is the contour OF the favorite hat.
/ cannot write about the spring chapeaux
with clear conscience. They are smart.
and here l have to stop. / might say o
great deal more. but know I'd better not.
The fashion chronicler is torn between
what she considers her duty, which is to
admire every new mode simply because it
is new and the dictates of her Judgment.
which asks her why she is such slave to
conventionality.
The polo hat is favorite of the tart
order. When it really suits woman it is
very smart, but if not her meter let her
shun this modish toque like the plague.
My chief objection to the polo is that il is
much prettier seen from the front than
when side or back view is caught But
nothing is perfect in this life, and the polo
does look pretty. very pretty, seen from
the front One note to make Is that all
these small round hats are common looking
II they the least overturned.
The choice of color in millinery is wide
one. Black is nearly always both becom-
ing and smart, and there are many attrac-
tive mixtures in black and white and in
shot straws taking in olive green and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23


Speaking of sailors, there is new one
on the market named in honor of the
famous Flatiron building in New York city.
Doubtless its designers claim that it will
stick on in any sort Of breeze 1t is
raised at the back with a high bandeau, on
which ribbons or flowers are banked At
recent opening F'latron sailor of pastel
blue straw, i'll very compact but SATIN
like pattern, showed a crown encircled very
simply with a band of violet and pastel
blue velvet ribbon. Underneath the brim
at the back was mass of flowers, which
looked as If it might have been lifted from
dollhouse or a country garden, for violets
and pale forget-me-nots were snuggled in
among blush roses, Camellias are also used
to mask the back of these hats but a
lighter effect is attained if small flowers are
mixed with large ones
Marvellous shaded effects are secured by
employing different tints of the same flow
ers. toque particularly becoming to a
falr-haired girl who dresses her hair in
rather fluffy fashion is built entirely from
hyaclnths. The foundation is pale lavender
maine Brim and crown are overlaid with
hyaclnths shading from palest to deepes I
lavender. On the brim the white starts
next TO the hair and the edge is the deep
shade. On the crown the white is in the
center, and the flowers deepen as the size
OF the circles increase. On either side of
the hat close to the hair and extending well
up above the brim are fiat rosettes of soft
ribbon in the three tints shown in the
flowers, and in the hearts of each rosette
are two delicate blush roses with pastel
green foliage.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23
HINTS FOR BUYERS.

If you are determined to be in the very
height of fashion at any sacrifice, you will
perch upon your carefully coiffed head a
dinky little toque, such as your grand
mother wore during the civil war days. If
you do not a rap about Fashions de-
crees, you will resurrect your last sum-
mer's shepherdess, or buy a dropping flop
ping fiat to shield your complexion and
shade your eyes.
If you are sensible and conservative, you
will strike a medium between the very
large hat and the very small, and feel emf
nently respectable and satisfied with your
millinery purchase. Either extreme, the
absurd little toque or the immense picture
hat, is for the special occasion, not for
general wear. 1t is the privilege of the
woman of many hats and not her sister,
who is limited to a Sunday hat and an ev-
ery-day piece of millinery.
The suit hat is a purchase to be avoided
by the woman of two hats only, and a
more neutral selection should be made for
the hat which is to be worn with num-
Der of summer frocks All white hats in
chip, Milan and leghorn, to say nothing of
horse hair and fancy satin straws, go well
with the new summer silks voileS and
wash goods, trimmed with non-committal
wreath of flowers, such as blush roses, pale
wistaria, hops. hyacnths jonquils. ETC.
Such a hat can be worn with almost any
frock of dressy nature. But the minute
one goes into Towering geranums or Amer
lean Beauty roses in combination with vivid
greens the hat is SO striking that 1t will
harmonic with only small proportion OF
the summer gowns
There are beautiful combina tons of pastel
shades. and If positive green gown is not
counted among the summer possessions a
hat in soft pastel green, with harmonious
and delicate colorngs for trimming, is also
a good purchase.
Unwary buyers should view with suspi-
cion all bargains now offered in feathers
Ostrich plumes are distinctly extravagant
for summer wear, for dust and moisture do
their worst to a hat trimmed in this fash
ion. Moreover, this is distinctly flower
season, and blossoms are being introduced
to the most eccentric styles of trimming
Solid brims are built from them, also solid
crowns and great quilts formed from leaves
or tiny flowers have replaced those of the
fea Their variety
On the other hand the woman who can
afford costume hat to match one of her
best gowns will find feathers a most har-
monious trimming. This woman has enough
hats so that she need not bring forth her
feather raiment when the wea Their is not
propitious. In fact, she does not wear even
flowers, unless the sun shines, but has in
reserve a smart sailor-shape, trimmed with
ribbons tied in stiff tailored bows