davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1905-04-25

c. S. HOLLOWAY,
superintendent of Public Works.
Honolulu. T. H. April %. 1905. 70S5
The Pacific commercial advertiser. [volume] (Honolulu, Hawaiian Islands) 1885-1921, 1905-04-25

honolulu, Apr1I 10, IgUo.
120-ApriI Is, 20. %.
The Washington times., 1905-10-29

~ PANGLED gowns are just as much
In fashion for this coming winter
~ as ever. but only the handsomest
rOhas gre narr,nffted an,. otL,o-
The Washington times., 1905-10-29

cess gown The belt this year may be
any width that is most becoming.
White spangle robes, save the rides
cent paillettes. have rather given up
their place to more brilliant colorines
Even gold On white net ground will not
De seen. except where the dress is lit
orally mass of spangIes and then
placed over deep yellow chiffon and silk.
this last making most effective gown.
Black spangled evening frocks ALWAYS
show up astonishingly well among the
paler tints of the average ball gown.
and black will be very much worn this
year by those to whom IT is peculiarly
becoming A deep gulmpe of white tuIle
or lace, with n touch of white in the
sleeves. will often render an all black
evening gown doubly becoming and will
also make II rather more striking in
appearance. All evening gowns. and es-
pecially dresses of such material as net
and chiffon, must be built out well
about the feet with plated fiounces and
ruffies of silk on the underskirt, and of
net on the net and chiffon under slim.
4 fine wire may also be run through the
hem of the silk petticoat
Paris declares emphaticaIly that long
skirts are TO be worn on all occasions
this year and house gowns and dinner
dresses all have decided trains once
more. American women, however, are
extremely fond OF combining true com
fort with their styles and fashions. so
that their walking skirts stu clear the
ground, and among the wardrobes of
the younger women ball gowns are stfll
quite short, many escaping the floor
by n half inch or more. AS there is
nothing so becoming to the figure as the
graceful lines OF a medium length train
IL Is interesting just now to await de-
velopments and see which is going 10
conquer. desire for comfort or beauty
the short skirt or the long train.
The Washington times., 1905-10-29

a double box pleat. so Ii falls to the
waist or just above II. - -->-.-> tha
second mourning wells of one or two
t1lr-Sd meshes n yard and a half long
arS craped from tho SiSe OF the hal
brims so they fSl c.<i1y TO the chm
or about half an inca above it. Th,.
border Is of thin. narrow pieces OF r,ros-
grain ribbon put on straight. Follow
Ing this stage, white crepe wells In box
pieats are pinned To round hats of tht.
same material. and worn at afteruoor
receptions, etc.
Mourning for parents or children
worn by young or middle aged women
is of grenadine, Brussels net or In
Tosca net. edged with three crepe
braids. They should be eighteen inches
wide and tss) yards long They are
pinned to brim of the hats with small
pins. so the headgear is entirely COW
cred. and then gathered In folds in the
back, SO they drop TO the waist OF q
trifie below II.
Young women should wear grenadine
wells draped round their hats so they
fall in fo'ds in the back beneath the
shoulders.
The Washington times., 1905-10-29
Embroidery for Frocks.

II ASHION'S newest thought in trim
- mings is embroidery. Every
whore is this form of ornamen-
tatson seen. OF TO less import
ance than the embroidery fashions are
the revivals in fabrics suitable for this
trimming. 1t has been found that as
much depends on the material upon
which the design is wrought as upon the
execution of the embroidery in obtain
ing a perfect result. In the search for
the right fabric it has been determined
that henrietta is ideal for the purpose,
it works so easily and offers q perfect
vehicle for the skilled or unskilled en-
broiderer.
The texture. the color tone. and ths
weight are exactly right for this form
of decoration and manufacturers Of pat
tern robes are fast coming to a realiza-
ton of the desirability OF such effects
and are bringing out machine embroid-
cred pattern robes of henrietta.
An extremely good design, and one of
Japanese origin. is the wistaria bios-
SOM Beautiful opera coats, made Of
Oriental silks. evening gowns of Japan
eSe. crepe and separate waists. are be-
Ing shown with embroidery in this most
attractive design Another idea bor-
rowed from the Japanese is the use OF
cOlOred embrOiuerieS on black materials.
shades of blue being particularly desir-
able No more artistic or beautiful ef-
feet can be imagined than harmonious
assembling of the Oriental blues in en-
broiderY done upon a surface OF black.
which enhances and brings out in strong
relief the blue tones. These designs ara
not at all difficult to execute, and the
exact color tones needed can be found in
all the best brands of embroidery silks.
Splendid designs for embroidery can
be obtained from the old shaWlS of silk
and cashmere such as our grandmotherB
wore. 1t seems too great a Sacrilege to
cut up these beautiful things for use as
and the reproduction of the
designs, even though OF modern making,
7yill give inst as good results.
In all emDrOz----' ----N- :. viii be found
that the best results come from the
simplest motif repeated. 2aIka dots are
always :.ffa"Iive in embroidery; - IS tt.x
daisy patterns, and s.Ns Walls Of E-s
and Greek Key" patterns are classes
the best trimming designs ever used OF
exceptional merit is a black henrietta
gown trimmed with an embroidered de-
sign in a daisy pattern. the heads of the
flowers being arranged in close success
sion to form the outline OF the Walls
Of Troy design. At the bottom of the
skirt this design is at least four inches
deep. The embroidery is all done IN
black silk but the flowers are centered
with a few bright silver beads. Ths
same design in smaller size appears on
This embroidery, while giving a wonder
fully handsome effect. is the simplest
possible 10 execute 1t is from the se-
lection of just such designs that best
results viii be obtained in this new fad
Of embroidery.
The Washington times., 1905-10-29

into & double box pleat, with the hem
on .cr. The f0rty-tach one is fastened
in the center, z-c= The IfCnt OF the
toque SO the folds oror gracefully TO
the waist line. A Brussels net face
veil with a crepe border OF three
straight or scalloped lines Is also worn
it IL a yard and a half long and should
be pulled around the brim of the hat
and pinned so ii viii drop TO the end OF
the chin or just above IL. At the back
the fullness Is gathered and held in
place by dull black pins.
The young widow may also wear her
mourning In an entirely different way
A grenadine veil a yard and a half
square. fashioned into a double box
pleat. is attached to the left side of
crepe turban with mourning ornaments
so il falls over the shoulder and down
almost to the waist.
After the first six months a young
widow who wishes 10 lessen her mourn
ing wears a grenadine of Brussels net
veil that is a yard and a half long and
from eighteen TO twenty inches wide,
with a small ribbon or crepe border
1t is pinned to the back OF the hat in
The Washington times., 1905-10-29
Spangled Gowns Again in Fashion

~ PANGLED gowns are just as much
in fashion for this coming winter
~ as ever. but only the handsomest
robes are permitted. any other
style OF dress being preferred to net
but scantily covered with paillettes. In
new and unusual shades. these robe
gowns are particularly in demand
queer greens, sapphire and electric
blues and brilliant reds all making de-
Hghtfully effective costumes
There is nothing as deceptive as
spangled net to be displayed at what
on first glance seems an absurdly low
figure. Sad TO relate IL is merely throw
ing so much money away TO invest in
any one of the less expensive grades
no matter how handsome or elaborate
il may appear. for the net Is always of
the poorest and will tear like So much
tissue paper. In fact, many absolutely
new robes crack and wear through
without any possible reason of excuse
The handsomest of these gowns are now
made of rather heavy Brussels net or
else the paillettes are sewed direct upon
chiffon.
If a spangled gown is to be made
from a net or chiffon robe dress and the
princess effect is desired the waist and
skirt-which come in separate pieces
can easily be joined on the silk lining
by rows of shirring about the waist
and hips or by bands of steel or let
embroidery laid on with corselet effect.
Paillette embroidery can be secured ir,
almost any coloring. and If robe IS
not in itself sufficiently effective it can
be trimmed In some way with bands
of solid Jet or paillettes, which will
Immediately add greatly to the effect
and brilliancy. Wide satin gIrdles are
preferred by a great many to the prin-
The Washington times., 1905-10-29

the armhole toward the belt A rather
wide sleeve is made full length, the top
arranged in narrow tucks for several
inches below tho armhole. the same
style of tucks holding .n the fullness
above the cuff. This Is of braided cloth,
with a dropping band of cloth across
the top, edged with a velvet fold fringed
with silk ball buttons. A wide stitched
belt completes the trim little jacket.
The skirt has a narrower belt of stitch
ed cloth fastened to the waistband in the
back The fuuness of the skirt is laid
in narrow cores. like box pleats. shaped
at the top. widening toward the bottom
and stitched along the edges from belt
10 hip A wide hem. with two rows of
stitching at the top. finishes the skirt.
which just escapes the ground all
around.
The skirt of the evening gown shown
in figure d is a perfectly plain circular,
so that no illustration is necessary. 1t
forms a perfect setting for the elaborate
little jacket bodice shown in both a bach
and a front view.
The little pointed coat fronts have
their fullness pleate6 in three rather
deep pleats under the waistband. From
the top down and around the points is
a border design of small shaded blue
flowers and foliage wrought in trans
parent and semi-opaque blue beads out
lined with tiny silver beads. A double
row of beads finishes the edges. The
same bead decoration appears on the
collar effect and points below the de-
colletage. running up in sprays upon the
lace which finishes the top of the bodice.
The coat fronts open upon a vest OF
close, full chiffon pieats. covered at the
top by a bow and long loop of lace with
silver gauze rosebuds arranged upon 1t.
This vest is confined by a belt Of silver
gauZe in folds
A small pufred sleeve has three gath
cred tucks running from the armhole TO
the cuff. The latter is an upward-turn
ing affair OF lace, slightly gathered, and
with a band of gold under the edge
straight band OF lace below II is edged
with two overlapping ruffles OF lace.
Rhinestone buckles are set on each
side the fronts where they are caught
to the belt.
The bead-embroidered coat-tails in
the back are also decorated with rhine
stone buckles. set in small silk loops, on
the belt. The coat back is stretched to
At at the top and pleated under the
belt at the bottom. The whole effect of
the little garment is delightful.
Copyright. W. r. Hearst. 1862
The Washington times., 1905-10-29
A Bewitching Little Trick in Economy

/ think. however, that a simple and
attractive house gown of crepe-de-
chine, or some nice material suitable
for the house, would prove q much bet
ter investment. 1t could be made so
as TO take the place of a theater as
well as a house gown and would be
less expensive than a regular calling
gown and so leave money for n smart
blouse to be worn in the afternoon
with the morning skirt. OF course. the
blouse should be white and just as
dainty as fine materials and needle
work can make II.
For evening wear I think a black net
the most serviceable material Of which
TO make n gown An evening gown OF
black net could be maze with a round
bodice or a draped one, or i'm some var
iation of the princess dress. It's making
10 so simple that ones own taste should
be guide In the matter. An evening
gown of new and very original style
is shown in the illustrations for those
who want a silk or satin gown made up
very modishly.
The morning gown shown I'm Figure A
would be particularly pretty made OF
henrietta or yelling In cloth the lace
insertings on the bodice could be omit
ted
On each side Of the front Of the blouse,
The Washington times., 1905-10-29
Etiquette Governing Wearing
Of Mourning Wells Outlined

II TIQUETTE governing the wearing
r OF mourning wells is definitely
outlined for this year. and those
who wish to conform 10 conven-
tional usage will have no difficulty in
Choosing the material for them, the way
they are 10 be worn or how they should
be draped. Even the age of the wearer
is Indicated By these wells, as well as
the stage of her mourning. whether it
be the first six months or the three fol-.
lowing, when the deepest kind Is laid
aside for less heavy black Women who
are correct in this will have them the
proper length and width and will be par
ticuiar as to the size of the hem in
back and front.
For an elderly widow a long veil of
crepe. bombaZine, or grenadine should
be worn. IT should fall far below the
waist line. and the size should be de-
termined by the height OF the wearer
A tall woman should have a veil sixty
by ninety inches. for one of medium
height forty-two by ninety. while for
a sman ~o--can forty-two by seventy
TWO inches I-ili be sufficiently long.
These wells are worn very simoly
either in gathers or box pleats. and are
arranged TO cover the entire bonnet OF
crepe They are fr-tencd to the crown
with dull jet pins ne narrower nine
inch hem falls -, over the face for
the first few weeks. The other or long
end of the veil, having an eleven-inch
heIn, drops In two box pleats or in folds
from the back of the small bonnet
where IL is held in place by mourning
pins. Neils OF this description are fire.
quently worn for years by elderly wo-
men who do not care TO lessen the
mourning. or If they wish to tighten the
crepe a white ruching is placed inside
the bonnet
Young widows may wear the same If
they wish, but equally deep mourning
Is short crepe veil worn with a tur-
ban. 1t Is from one yard and three
quarters to two yards long, and forty
inches wide. The hem in the back is
nine inches, and that overlapping four
Inches wide. At the funeral II Is worn
over the face, but afterward IL is made
The Washington times., 1905-10-29
To Create a Modish Gown Cheaplv.

This does not mean that no long skirts
viii be worn upon the street; Paris
has sent over a number of such models.
but they are not practical
Don't have a pleated skirt made Many
people will wear them, but they are
not the newest cut of skirt, and. for
one whose gowns must last a long time
they are to be avoided. The circular
skirt is newer and. as II takes less ma
terial than the pleated variety. is mere
economical as well.
The almost seamless circular made up
in long skirts is less practical with more
seams. The former cut says on the sides
and necessitates a constant taking IN
of the skirt. which is annoying and
not always practicable. In a long skirt.
which drags on the floor all around.
this sagging is rather graceful than 9TH
erwise. and never apparent. Where the
skirt only reaches the ankles, or Just
passes them. II should be exactly even
all around the edge.
The morning street gown of the
woman of small means should embrace
a coat and skirt instead of one of the
bodice-like coats now in vogue
Whether the coat be long or short,
tight or lose. II is practical because 1t
may be worn with equal suitability in
the afternoon and will not change its
lines as soon as a bodice will.
If an afternoon gown can be afford
ed, velveteen is the best material to
procure. and. IL that proves too heavy,
crepe-de-chine should be the choice
1t goes without saying that the former
fabric will outlast the latter and give
better service. II is more practical for
the purpose and perhaps as effective as
crepe-de-chine for afternoon wear.
The Washington times., 1905-10-29

7 WANT to say a word to my read
ers on the subject of expense In
ones dressing for 1t is a subject
which touches us all very nearly
and dearly Ten years ago $50 for a
gown was considered a large price, and
several gowns could usually be procured
for that sum- Today $3.50 Is not at all
an unusual price to pay for practically
the same gown There has been and
is steady increase in the cost of
dress Women pay over sl.oe0 for some
OF their gowns and the price, $3.50,
which l have just mentioned, is con-
sidered really a modest one for some
modish costumes. The cost of dress
has just doubled In Paris and has enor-
mously increased all over Europe. Prices
there are keeping pace with prices here
The sum of this little talk is that a
woman Will be Obliged to limit her win
Ter OUTFIT, If she hungers to be strictly
q Ia mode, 20 just a few gowns, and
those to almost one color scheme That
Should be black. as being the least con-
spicucus of colors; always smart In
erect and color easy TO make over
and alter to suit the whim of STYLES
and circumstances. Black cloth is in
Nariably the smartesf thing of which To
make a dress for morning wear when
shopping or walking. / suggest the
omission of an afternoon gown, and that
a smart blouse he planned for after
noon service TO be worn with the morn
ing suit. Black cloth well made will
look very suitable for afternoon wear.
put II VIII be. OF course, more simply
made than a gown intended for after
noon wear only.
"here ones gowns are limited in num-
Der J would suggest the short skirt
wherever practicable The short skirt
can be worn with certain amount of
proprioty for all occasions, while a long
skirt is only suitable for house or car
rage wear The short skirt always
looks smart IL we'll cut and hung. but
The long skirt for walking purposes
never loks anything but unlovely and
out OF place.
The Washington times., 1905-10-29

below a round collar of embroidery, are
three groups of three tucks each, and
two insertings of lace. Two long tabs
of embroidery down each side the front
terminate a little above the belt and
are decorated in the top with oblong
inserted medallions of lace A deep
stock merges into a small round woke
formed OF rows of narrow Valenciennes
iace The embroidered collar IS stitched
nat and forms one piece with the shoul-
DER straps Medium full sleeves arc
shirred TO the armhole and gathered to
an embroidered hand at the elbow
which forms cufr above one of lace.
narrow rows of lace form a small cuff.
Which is gathered along the rront seam
ana nnisned with quilting OF lace The
pieats or the skirt turn forward upon a
very narrow front panel. The bottom OF
,iiS skirt Is trimmed with wide folo,
stltched above piping so as TO give the
appearance OF a double piping on ,he
edge. The plsats are stitched down az
the top 10 the hips.
circular skirt may be made In ex-
actiy the same fashion, only thar tbs
scant fullness at the top should he
gathered in double or triple rows 90
gathers or else fitted to the hips w,,b
pin tucks
very effective model of an after
noon gown in crepe de chine is shown
IN figure b. IT is In a popular shade
or peach color and the bodice Is made
with yoke much deeper in the front
than in the back and pointed at both
places. This is bordered with a fold
of peach-colored velvet, in a deeper
shade. which Is wider on the shoulders
and narrows where the ends cross in
the front and back. The bodice Is dram
ed over fitted lining. with the folds
OF the drapery turned upward. The
crepe is put on full in the armhole and
along the underarn seam, and the
folds AZ the bottom are finished in the
back with n girdle piece A three
quarter sleeve OF chiffon Is draped owe:
with nct and with fiounces OF repousse
lace headed by little net frills. Both
stock and woke are covered with re-
pousse lace. which is put on in three
little ruffies across the bottom OF the
yoke front.
The Washington times., 1905-10-29
Note the Attractive, Trim Little Coat.

Figure c shows a very good model of
n gown for afternoon wear. 1t is not
too dressy for the morning and quite
dressy enough for calling purposes. Il
is OF plum-colored cloth made with a
short coat. This is cut somewhat on
the Eton style, with loose fronts and
fitted back attached TO a stitched belt.
A rather deep round collar Is braided
with narrow silk soutache. and comes
to a point in front. The neck. edge and
bottom OF the fronts are finished with
a velvet fold that runs to n point at the
bottom corners. SILK ball buttons trim
the inner edges of the velvet folds, and
between these and inner folds OF velvet
are set bands of braided cloth.
The back is In one piece with fold
on each side, narrowing as IL runs from
The Washington times., 1905-10-29

"A Good Model for a Morning
Dress for the Street.
B-The House and Theatre Gown of
Crepc-de-Chine.
ca Charming Af.crnoon Gown Of
Plum -Colored Cloth.
D-My Little Jacket Bodice for a
Dinner Gown.
The Washington times., 1905-10-29

. TIQUETTE governing the wearing
r of mourning wells IS definitely
outlined for this year, and those
who wish 70 CON form 70 cnn,-or,
The Washington times., 1905-10-29

Copyright. W. r. Hearst. 1862
The Washington times., 1905-10-29

II ASHION'S newest thought in trim
- mings is embroidery. Every
where is this form of ornamen-
tatson seen OF 10 less inport-
Sistersville daily oil review. [volume] (Sistersville, W. Va.) 1902-1905, 1905-04-11
"Hoity Toity."

"Hoity jToity" is said to be en-
tertaining, magnifcently staged,
beautifully costumed and capably
played, which is not surprising
when it is known that Weber &
Fields are responsible for it.
Those of our theater- goers who
have not had the pleasure OF an
evening with Weber & Fields in
their coy little New York thea
ter viii no doubt rejoice that these
managers have decided to yield
to the clamor throughout the
country for road production OF
"Hoity Toity," the greatest mus
ical comedy success New York
has seen in many a year, and that
Manager Doyle has had the en-
terprise to secure this exception
ally high class entertainment fol-
an engagement at the Auditorium
on next Monday evening, which
is all the more commendable in
view of the fact that a guarantee
was required.
Sistersville daily oil review. [volume] (Sistersville, W. Va.) 1902-1905, 1905-04-11
A Night Attack.

Last night the little daughter
of Mrs. Brown, as she sweetly and
peacefully slept in her little bed
near the window, was attacked by
death-dealing demon known as
Group Whooping Cough, and but
for the timely use of Kennedy's
Laxative Honey and Tar, which
she always keeps handy, the life
of the little one might not have
been saved. Kenndey's Laxative
Honey and Tar is different from
all Of the old-time cough syrups
and is best for children because
It acts on the bowels, is harmless
safe and certain. Contains no
opiates. Sold by Opera House
Drug store.
Sistersville daily oil review. [volume] (Sistersville, W. Va.) 1902-1905, 1905-04-11
About Rheumatism.

There are few diseases that in.
fict more torture than rheuma,
tism, and there is propably no
disease for which such a varied
and useless lot of remedies have
been suggested. To say that il
can be cured is, therefore, bold
statement to make, but Chamber
lain's Pain Balm, which enjoys
an extensive sale, has met with
great success in the treatment of
this disease. One application of
Pain Balm will relieve the pain,
and hundreds of sufferers have
testified to permanent cures by
it's use. Why suffer when Pain
Balm affords such quick relief
and costs but a trif1e? For sale
by Hill Bros.