The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-10-12
THE FASHIONS.
4 GROUP OF LUXURIOUS VEL
 YET GOWNS.

styIish-Redingcte Suits FaVOFite
 ModeIs-The Hat PrOblem-A Few
 Simple Shapes.
 A group of unusually beautiful velvet costumes attracted attention this week. The fabric itself has been wonderfully improved, and the material from which these robes were fashioned was softer, more lustrous and more pliable than gowns was a shade of blue between the velvet of former years. One of the china blue and mauve, d sort of a hya- cinth tone. It was made with circu- lar skirt, round length, and had for sole trimming two very heavy cords above the hem. There was a yoke of fine lace, the collar of the same having 8 narrow band of the velvet at the top. The bodice below the yoke was trimmed with five large medallions of heavy Irish crochet. These were arranged one in front, two on the shoulders, and two in the back. The full elbow sleeves Of the gown were finished with elabo- rate frills of narrow lace like that of the yoke. There was a high, pointed LcLokCllGA HIlu ItllCC Illly SttI horseshoe buckles.
 Another gown was of old pink un- cut velvet. It had a stock and pointed yoke of ''baby" Irish, and little turn over collar of the same lovely lace. The waist was quaintly draped in a sort of a pointed fichu effect, the drapery edged on the sides with a tiny frilling of satin. The skirt was laid in large box plaits, and the lower part was trimmed with a knee-deep applied flounce, scalloped at the top and edged with the narrow satin frilling. The el- bow sleeve was finished with a cuff of lace edged on either side with frillings
 A truly royal costume was of pastel blue velvet embroidered in large silver flowers. The gown was a princess, all though a narrow girdle partly encircl- ed the waist. The entire front of the gown was left princess, and was em- broidered from top to bottom with the silver flowers. It had transparent yoke of silver spangled gauge, and just below the yoke was a touch of con- trasting color in a large orchid of fish scale spangles, shading into deep pink
 Even more beautiful was a gown of rich yellow velvet, combined with Irish crochet and a kindred lace dyed to match the velvet. The gown was princess, and was made with a sharply pointed yoke of the white Irish The entire costume was striped up and down with pointed panels of the dyed lace, which was further embellished with applied flowers of very soft silk VI t1,, oF a1 low lace around the foot of the skirt and a girdle of lace at the waist line The short sleeves were almost entirely of lace. This gown would be conspicu- ous for elegance and beauty among many others.
 Not only for evening gowns, but for street and home costumes, velvet is much in demand. Many handsome coat suits are being made up for autumn FiFssa esstf nd we shall undoubtedly see as many velvet as cloth gowns at the coming horse show. I dark blue vel vet gown was made with wide cir cular skirt, with an applied band at the foot. The band, which was about six inches wide, was of dark blue broadcloth, and was cut in square sseallops on either side. The jacket was 8 short box coat bordered all around with broadcloth, which in its turn was edged with a fancy black silk braid There was collar and short revers of old blue and white embroidery on white satin, a small cuff on the same finish ing the sleeve
 Another velvet gown, cloth trimmed, was plum color in one of the new soft shades The spirit was a princess or cefsetlet model with a very high fold ed girdle extending far up the figure. The skirt was laid in box plaits, very fine and close over the hips, and dis appearing in loose folds not far below. Three small folds of cloth-like tucks finished the hem. The short Eton jacket was plaited from the shoulders, { and was bordered all around with cloth. There was a fancy square collar of Irish crochet and g. trimming of cloth bands and enamel buttons. The, sleeves were vo1uminous and rather intricate. They were longer than elbow sleeves, but short enoguh to make long wrinkl- ed gloves necessity.
 gown of cloth and velvet in a warm shade of brown had princess skirt fitted smoothly over the waist and hips, and falling in wide folds about the feet. The upper part of the skirt was of cloth and the lower half of velvet, cut in fancy scallops at the top. The short jacket was of velvet trimmed with cloth. Cloth bands edged the jacket and the collar; revers and cuffs were cloth. All of these were edged with a fancy silver braid.
 The princess skirt and short bolero is being exploited in the fall walking gowns. They are very becoming to youthful figures, but should never be attempted by stout women. Almost any of the new materials, sofe, pliabIe fabrics, are used in these gowns, and there are several variations of the mode which are very pleasing. One has 3, sort of a corselet made by joining eight or nine shaped gores. The front gore is extended into panel which forms the entire front gore of the skirt The rest of the skirt is a circle at tached to the lower edge of the corselet Tn another model the entire skirt is plaited, corselet and all, the corselet of course, fitting the figure. High silk girdles often finish the skirt. The lit- tie jackets worn are very short, and are elaborately trimmed.