Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1905-06-15
new YORK FASHION LETTER
Lingerie Frock sim First Favoritc-
Modes for the Graduation Season.

New York. June 11.-This is the month
of the graduating frock and both fash
ionable dressmakers and humble seam
stresses are wrestling with the prob
lens of girlish modshncss. The trock
must bc simple, but there are many va
rietics OF simplicity.
The lingerie frock is still first favorite
for the purpose-inore so than ever this
difference. and. as rule. its simplicity is
in general effect and in the eye OF the be-
holder rather than in the details Of tho
frOck.
The possibilities OF the tuck in connec-
and though many tucks call for additional
material. they are less expensive than
any good separate trimming
The full skirt Of fine lawn, gored at the
top to 90 away with superfiuous stuff.
but loft full enough to be shirred into tho
waisthand or tucked vertically around
the hips. may be made charming by the
use of tucks as sole trimming. Gradu-
ated tucks, narrowing as they recede from
the hem toward the half skirt length line
where they end. are we'll liked, but groups
of tucks either uniform or made with q
fective. y deep fiounce. with many fine
tucks upon it's bottom and set on the skirt
either with heading or with a group of
tucks, is usually becoming and lessons the
difficulty of the cutting. since the hounce
gives ample fulness at the bottom Of tho
skirt, and all is not left to the cores.
a double or triple skirt the shaped
Hounccs set on bell-shaped sharply fiar-
:; oh hor nv ma u,
fine tucks. is pretty if we'll cut. and is
becoming to the girl with fair length Of
skirt line: but unless the overlapping
founces are we'll shaped or of superlative-
~ soft fine material. this model Is prone
to look bunglesome. An under petticoat
very clinging around the hips and very
faring and bouffant at the bottom. is al
ways needed to give this double or triple
skirt the correct silhouette.
With the tucked skirt, tucks in the
blouse are imperative. and the only other
trimming is introduced in the yoke or
guimpe and bertha and in the sleeve.
Another type OF lingerie frock. elaborate
in effect. yet less costly than tho intricate
~ trimmed CONNECTIONS of the fashionable
dressmaker. is the embroidery gown,
made from robe patterns OF embroidery.
Some OF the patterns. including plain
material. bouncing of two widths, lnser-
ton bands, and perhaps mcdalions, are
eXuuisitely dainty. and often the skirt is
already put together and so nearly finish
ed that any dressmaker can hang it and
put it on the band. These are not cheap,
when fine. but the embroidery is less cost
| ly than handwork.
1,,,t hA 10
used upon the graduating frocks, inset
in straight lines. vandykes. scallops,
| scrolls, Greek key designs, bowknots, etc
| 1t is used. too. to join seams, 10 frame en-
broidercd medallions. to form whole
guimpcs and long cuffs. Nalenciennes lac,
is employed not merely as edgng or frill-
| ing but also to be inset like the insertion
bands.
The prncessc graduating frock is n very
successful one of French batiste, tinel,
shirrcd to n deep Grdle form at the
guimpc and collar OF valenciennes nser-
ton and with valenciennes edging. Guimpt
and collar arc OF the valencicnncs and the
full skirt shows scrolls of inset valcn'
cicnncs above tho deeep founcc shirrcd il
many fine lines in the points of the scroll
Two narrow Nat founces. lace edged and
|
and the whole arrangement of skirt trim
ming Is most effective without being ex
cessively complicated.
The fine dotted and embroidered swisse.
make delightful graduating frocks. as wei
as the batistes. mulls and fine lawns. ant
there are new swisses this season. powder
cd closely with tiny dots and showing a
intervals a small embroidered design a.
we'll. that are finding favor with dress
makers.
Outside of the lingerie province, The
plain and figured nets. chiffon. sill
mousseline. silk gauze. Grape and all tn
very sheer silks are suitable for the grad
uating frock. Fine wolfe and solienn'
too. are used where expense and service
ability are vital considerations, and {
very simply made frock of sheer whit,
voile with no trimmings save nuns plait!
on the skirts and with some good lace IL
guimpe and sleeves. is not only Yer,
seviceable and inexpensive frock but
very girlish and pretty one as well.
Chiffon and mousseline de sole arc per