The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-04-20

Hats.
 The street gown which seems to be taking better than any other model is the princess skirt and short belero jack ct. The princess skirt is the antithesis of the fashionable plaited skirt. It is tight-fitting. and reveals the lines of the figure over the hips. The boleros are the slightest little affairs. many of them hardly more than capes, and the effects are all loose and informal. The combination of tight skirt below and fluffy draperies above is supposed to create the illusion of a willowy waist. This is helped out by the practice, now quite general, of boning the tops of sleeves to increase the width of the shoulders. The sleeves of the boleros are practically all short, and many of them are draped. The blouses worn with these suits may be of taffeta or some other silk of a matching color, or thin white silk, linen or lawn. The lin gerie waist of lawn or handkerchief linen will doubtless be the favorite, the short sleeves giving chance for lace trimmed blouse sleeves to show to ad- vantage.
 Two other styles in street suits are available; the short, loose box coat and the redingote. There are also tight-fit- ting, three-quarter coats. It would seem as though all figures were provi- ded for.
 An old pink chiffon cloth gown had a skirt with a centre seam, on either side of which was an inverted plait. There was a double inverted plait in the back, and the rest of the skirt was plain and tight-fitting. Two flares" l or shaped fiounces. attached without any fullness, trimmtd the foot of the skirt. The short bolero had round koke, trimmed with bias bands of taf- feta the exact shade of the gown. The bolero proper was shirred slightly un- der the yoke and gathered into band of the taffeta, which began little to 1 the side of the plain front of the jacket. This marrow front had a band of black velvet, and the coat collar and revers were also of black velvet. The sleeves were short puffs, gathered into a cuff trimmed with taffeta bands and black velvet buttons. Below this was a small turned back cuff of black velvet. The | high-folded girdle of the cloth and taf- feta had double row of velvet buttons land simulated button-holes. A guimpe and high cuffs of lawn and lace were to
 be worn with the gogn.
 An example of the capelike beIeros l was seen in an almond-green voile,
 made with a princess skirt, pin-tucked | all around at the hips. Around the foot of the skirt were three tucks stitched with dozen rows of whie' thread. The | jacket was very short, and looked al-
 most as if it were a square piece of
 cloth with two points falling over the
 shoulders and two each in the back and Efront. It was worn over an exquisite
 waist of soft green and ite-checked silk, with a sffadoWy flower figure in lpastel tones. This was trimmed with 1 Eyaleneiennes and very narrow green I velvet ribbon. .<r 4.s | l Some of the boleros are cut SC intri- 4 cately as to baffie intelligible descrip-
 ton. How, for instance, is one to de-
 scribe a blue silk jacket which has a round yoke tucked ray fashion, with the
 lower part in at least six irregularly
 shaped gores? These gores were beau
 tifully rounded, and the lines of the
 stitched straps, which outlined them made a most graceful figure for the
 wearer. The skirt was full and the box I plaits were stitched over the hips tc
 give the close-fitting effect desired. There are many separate coats, bele- ros, box coats and redingotes. They
 have taken the place, to a large extent of the useful and simple covert coat (which is entirely too plain a garment to suit the elaborate sytles of the mo- nnent. These coats and boleros are made of almost any material, silk cloth, heavy lace and light woolen ma teriaIs. Some kind of a separate coai
 is a necessity, since the advent of the
 shirtwaist suit. What answers for 2
 shirtwaist suit this season is usually g
 rather ornate costume, almost .invaria. bly made with a square-cut bodice, ac'
 eompanied by a transparent guimpe
 The sleeves frequently call for thin un'
 dersleeves, and the costume for street '] wear needs a coat. The eminently jus
 criticisms which were provoked by tht ! transparent blouse of a season or two ago, appI to the transparent guimpe
 Thin clothes should not be worn on tht
 streets.
 Fl A pretty example of a shirtwaist suit
 was seen in a yellow and cream -coloret
 checked taffeta, with brown hail
 stripe through it.Tf1e waist was cut ir an oblong decollete, bias band outlin ing the opening. Under this there wert innumerable little tucks about two inches long, which "rayed" from tn, front and were parallel only on tht shoulders. Two straps of silk lik, braces extended from the shoulders tc the waist. The skirt was laid in bo, pleats, with tiny tucks between eacl plait. The high girdle was of blair brown taffeta, and the Guimpe O tucked Persian lawn, striped with nar , row lace.
 Many or the new shirtwaist suits are made of voile and light wool fabrics Very good, indeed, are the green ant blue plaids in these materials. The! are ideal for travelling, as they do no
 accumulate dust, and are readil.
 cleaned.
 A pretty model in green and blu,
 plaid was effectively trimmed witt