The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-05-25

ParasOIs and Hats.
 Walking up Fifth avenue on a sunny morning. or mingling with the shopping crowds on Broadway or Twenty-third Street, it is easy to note the real ten dencies of fashion, for fashions suffer a few changes after they filter through the designers and the dressmakers' hands. When woman is said to look like a fashion plate, it means that she wholly lacks originality, Individual taste counts for great deal in dress ing. Beyond certain point, the arbiters of fashion cannot force a style or suppress it. Talk of reviving crino- lines need not alarm. Even if a few women accepted that barbarous fashion, the majority would refuse to make themselves ridiculous, and the fashion, like that of false hair piled on to make artificial ohignons, would be confined to those who lack originality.
 Whatever eccentricities the spring fashions appeared at first to possess, the Altering process has turned them into beauty by this time. Aside from the pill-box turban, there are no absur- dities in the present modes. No glar- ing extremes of color or style offend the eye. Gowns and hats are in the best of taste, with even the tendency towards oveftrimming modified.
 The gown most frequently seen on the street is the coat and skirt suit, worn over the thinnest of lingerie blouses. Despite the warm weather, the coat is as often long as short Materials are silk, mohair, or yoile, as rule. Black and white checks, or some shade of gray, appear to be the favorite, as far as color is concerned Plenty of brown, blue, green and violet are seen, but the gray effect are coo numerous to claim prodominance.
 The black and white checks are not usually dressy, yet some extremly popular material. A beautiful after noon or visiting gown os black and white fine voile was seen in a Fifth Avenue parlor shop. The waist had a deep round yoke of white lace trimmed with small bows and applications of narrow black velvet ribbon. The collar had a top band of two folds of pale blue satin. Below the yoke was a flat, circular collar of black satin with applications of blue Chinese embroidery. The voile waist was shirred on this collar and was striped with many rows of the narroWest black velvet ribbon. The full skirt was striped with the velvet ribbon in groups of five, and more rows of velvet crossed the skirt at the foot. There was a girdle of black satin with applications of Chinese embroidery
 Another black and white voile was made with a plaited skirt having a plain panel front. There was plaited fiounce nearly half the length of the skirt, this being headed by a broad band of heavy black lace. Solidity was given the lace band by small folds of satin which outlined the lace on either side. The jacket was cape bolero tucked on the shoulder and out lined by a band of the lace and satin. The girdle was black satin.
 A black and white checked foulard had a large flower design overlaying the check, the principal color being pale blue. This was made with a. triple skirt. each bordered with five rows of marrow black velvet ribbon. The lace yoke and collar were likewise striped with velvet ribbon, and the silk bodice was shirred on heavy cords to the yoke. The upper shirt also is shirred, and there was girdle satin to finish the gown. *
 Oraa r,f tbot served this season was built of silver gray chiffon Voile, deliberately em- boidered in broderie. The waist was open in the front, showing a surplice vest entirely composed of narrow Valenciennes. edging invisibly joined. There was a collar and guimpse of all- over Valenciennes. A narrow silver braid edged with narrower black velvet outlined the voile and trimmed the top of the collar. The high girdle of gray satin was trimmed with little bows of the silver and velvet braid, and the same braid decorated the edges of the lace sleeves. The skirt was untrimmed save for the broderie Anglaise.
 The surplice waist is the waist of the season, and next to this in popularity comes the draped bodice. The draped sleeve. st,irred in the inner seam and sometimes in both seams is a great favorite. The soft and clinging fabrics which every one is wearing lend them selves well to draped effects. A flower ed in mauves tones was made with draped waist, plain in the back showing a bolero effect in front The. fronts of the waist were fulled in the under arm seam and brought together in the centre, where they were gathered into a jeweled buckle, dull silver and amethyst. There was no underwaist of white lace.
 Practically, all sleeves are short, either elbow-length or terminating several inches above the wrist. Many varieties of lawn and lace under-sleeves are sold to wear with these short sleeves, and one may be as extravagant as she chooses in the matter of these dainty accessories Some of the i'm ported guirnpe and undersleeve sets are incredibly expensive On the other hand, many pretty sets are to be had for very small sums. Clever women will not find the sets hard to get up at home. Bits of real lace may be utilized to good effect. The finest of tucked LAz .7