The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1905-03-31
Am Elaborate Pale Blue Cloth Evening Coat
Copyright. 1905, by r. F. Ayers)


One might almost think that the
women OF fashion and snartness were
anticipating summer opera season by
the number Of very elaborate evening
coats that are being brought over from
Faris to be worn during the. mouths
Following the closing of this functions
season. The new evening coats are not
made OF such elaborate materials as
winter ones. and ermine has given way
to frills of lace and chiffon. But the
recently imported modes are quite as
lovely as feminine heart could desire.
Like the tailor costumes these wraps
display a liberal use OF braids. Fancy
and plain braids put on separately and
together; braids appliqued around lace
motifs. and all sorts of velvet. silk and
howered designs outlined with braided
strips, with sometimes a touch OF gilt.
Pale coiored broadcloths are liked for
the foundation upon which this elab-
crate trimming is disposed
In the drawing We have a three
quarter coat in pale blue cloth. 1t
hangs with modish looseness from
deep yoke upon which white braid Is
arranged in a series of scrolls and zig
gag connecting strips. Three roSettes
as large as full blown roses conceal the
front fastening of the coat from the
throat to the bust. These are made OF
the white braid shirred up with blue
cord and conferred with spiral twists OF
II. The slightly opened throat is fin
ished with a double ruche made OF n
wide piece OF the braid shirred through
the middle. The first one of the triple
rosettes comes just ar the opening.
Down the front Of the coat. and
around the bottom are two bands Of
the white braid in two widths. the mar
rover coming at the center of the
opening and at the top on the edge Of
the coat The bands of braid are put
on quite fiat, and then at regular in
tervals they are crossed with small
blue silk cords. giving a pretty combi-
nation of the blue and white, and at
the same time presenting a visible
means Of attachment. The front trim
ming reaches not only to the very edge
of the coat, but extends below in two
loops which are held in place with blue
cords.
There are several rows of corded
shirringS across the top Of the sleeve
that give ii the appearance of having
been made with a cap. This is, how
ever not separate from the rest, and
the fullness secured In this way is
gathered in again at the hand, where IL
is finished with a shaped and partly
circular cuff upon at the hand, where
1t is finished with a rosette placed on
the inner seam, where the cuff Is cut
away. Wide lace is fulled in here to
fall over the hand
There is no arbitrary rule for the lin
ing to be used in such a coat. 1t may
match the color of the cloth, or be
white, or ii may show a fancy Powered
design and still be in good taste. The
main point to bear in mind is to choose
thin lining, one that will sustain the
outer part properly and yet add no
appreciate weight.
There never was a time when so
many pretty lowered effects could be
had. They almost tempt one to buy a
garment for the sake of the dainty and
becoming inner side. This considera-
ton has its importance, too, in the Sc
lection of any part of a wardrobe. For
so often thrown back to expose the
lining that it is imperative to have one
that is most becoming.
Another pale blue cloth garment of
the same style and length had the yoke
hidden under handhome arrangement
of white silk and gold braid. There
was just touch of the gold here and
there. Down the front it's enhancing
CLEAN showed in the outlining of dia-
mond shaped pieces of turquoise vel
vet, which were applfqued on the fiat
very narrow gold braid alluded to.
Soft white twilled silk formed the lin
ing This coat was duplicated in a way
with pale mauve cloth for the outer
part and deep pansy colored diamonds