Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-21
NEW YORK, May 10.

NEW YORK, May 10. 1905.
Despite the fact that never in the his
tory of millinery have more outre. trying
and even ugly shapes and combinations of
coloring obtained than this season. it is still
possible to get conservative and becoming
chapeaus artistically trimmed, and such
hats are quite as smart the more I'M
usual modes from Paris.
One of the most important of all things
and an essential that the Partisan never
forgets-is to have the hair beautifully
coiffed Anything more distressing to the
eve than one of the new absurdly knocked
up Partisan chapeaus, trimmed with a
hodge-podge of colors. on top of stringy.
ill-kept mass of hair. with perhaps a few
stray locks dangling here and there can
not well be imagined The Paris;ans are
noted for their exquisite coiffures. Their
heads show no struggling locks. and their
hair is almost always Marcel waved; if
the hair has no natural gloss an artificial
one is given it, and artificial hair also
supplies any deficiencies in that line Mar
Gel waving is not so much the vogue, even
among faShionables. here as in Paris
which is perhaps best. for continued way
ing with hot irons is undoubtedly destruct-
i've. but any woman can have neatly dressed
hair. To have such hair, however, no mat
ter how luxuriant IL may be and how
healthy the scalp, the former must be care
fully brushed and the latter kept healthy
by friction, the occasional use of suitable
tonics and regular shampooing. Light hair
is seldom glossy, but the mixture known
TO every one and which hairdressers use
will give 1t a certain gloss that it will re-
tain several days. This preparation, how
ever, is not good for the hair if used con-
tinuously, and at it's best 1t renders the hair
a bit sticky, and therefore less cleanly. The
invisible nets made of hair that may be OBJ
tanned in any shade are invaluable in Keep
ing the hair in place, and they cannot be
detected two feet away, and are seldom
noticed even at the shortest range.
As the Frenchwoman almost invariably
wears her hair high, the Marcel waving
breaks up the ugly plain line usually pro-
duccd by this mode, and the knocked-up
hats tilted down over the nose are less try
ing Besides the Partisan is always hand
somely gowned and carries herself well.
and thus carries off these Chapeaus better.
At recent fashionable weddings in smart
restaurants and at the races many cha
peaus other than the pronounced shapes
mentioned have been worn by many of the
Eest-gowned and smartest women. The
small toque with simple wings or other
adornment Is still in as good taste and
fashion as ever. and the picturesque, wide
brimmed hat turned up in any becoming
way at the back and sides is worn by those
il suits on the proper occasions.
The polo hat. or Tommy Atkins cap, or
whatever one may call 1t. was doomed
from the first; it is a style that appealed to
the vulgar taste. and its cheapness and the
ability to get it in the cheapest forms and
To wear it with little no trimming has
rendered it suited to the poorest purse;
but indeed the writer does not ever recall
having seen this shape, even at its incep-
tion, on the head of even single fashion,
able woman. few young girls wore II
when the imported models were the only
ones seen.
Flowers and feathers are equally fash
ionable at the moment, and often seen
together, but this is never in good taste
a the use of one alone. While in former
days flowers were used under the brim and
tips above the reverse now obtains. and
many small tips are used under the brims,
while flowers are arranged on the top of
brim or crown. or on both.
a French hat in pale mauye. with its
crown encircled by white and mauve flow
ers is not tilted as to brim. but the whole
chapeau is tilted to one side by the shape
of the bandeau. On this bandeau are fas-
tened small poufs of mauve ostrich tips,
and white watered ribbon chous are also
used thereon.
Much of the artificial hair, in the way of
curls. is attached to the bandeaus of the
hats and French milliners keep a good
sortment of curls in all colorings TO show
their customers. for. owing to the eXtraor
binary tilt of many hats to the fore, even
the quantities OF feathers or flowers leave
awkward spaces, which these curis fill
The Parisians have selected the small hat
as the smartest possible for present wear;
these are lifted at the back by bandeaus
and filled in with enormous cashepeigneS,
being seldom turned up at the sides. The
larger hats are rolled or tilted at the sides.
One of the prettiest and most becoming
devices to avoid the turning up at the back
Is TO have the shape very deep at the back,
and this can be trimmed with ribbons, tips
or flowers
The box turban is fashionable and well
suited to street wear, to travelling and for
shopping. and is much worn by young wom-
en-. The younger matrons like toques for the
same use. The toques usually have oval
crowns and the turb1ns square, bell
shaped and wide crowns. Flowers are much
used on these. in small punches or clusters,
but feathers and wings are in better taste.