davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1905-10-22

1t would seem almost as though we
had gone back to the time when women
were so uncomfortable in the cloth
gown made without a wrap that could
only be worn for a short time in the
autumn or made with a wrap and which
was uncomfortable all winter long.
Another question that Is discussed a
great deal has to do with the silk drop
skirt. 1t is contended that in order to
gain the desired slimneSS around the
hip it is best not to line the dress skirt
with silk, even with Il drop skirt, but
to have a deep flounce of silk sewed
to the skirt and then have the drop
skirt and petticoat all in one, as 1t
were, thus doing away with one gar
ment Slight women like the drop
skirts. stout women are in favor of the
flounce and skirt, but just here let it
be known in that order to have a cloth
or velvet gown made on the models
of the season there must be a flaring
skirt so made that there is a deep
flounce or ruffie Of silk, for If a wide
skirt hangs in around the feet it is
very ugly and loses all style and
smartness.
Skirts fit close around the hips, flare
very wide, are most becoming when the
lines are long and when the trimming
is arranged also in long lines. There
are very few plain skirts seen, especial
ly in the more elaborate styles of
gowns, but the trimmings are all
around the lower part of the skirt. The
overskirt is more limited at and there
are some few models that show drap
ing that recalls the days of the draped
oVerskirt. The flounced skirts are by
no means out of style, but, in truth, to
particularize the skirt models of 1905-06
would be q weary task; in other words,
there are more designs than usual to
choose from and at the same time the
effect of them all is the same-while
fitting close around the hips they widen
out gradually and while apparently
fitting close there is sufficient width
to prevent a too scant appearance, for
a skirt that looks as though it were
made of too little material Is considered
shocklngly ugly and is unbecoming even
to the most slender of figures.
Rough cloths and fancy effects in
material are not very satisfactory for
the more elaborate styles Of reception
gowns. The smooth cloths and velvets
have always been for this style of
dress considered the best, and al
though from time to time there have
been some more or less eccentric eff
fects in velvet that have won approval,
the fashion has never remained pop
rlar for any time, and now the mixed
effects are only possible in the trim
mings,
Los Angeles herald., 1905-10-22

vet and the dark shades are coming In
more again, although the fancy for
| dressing in light, conspicuous colors
seems to be just as popular as ever,
in fact it is rather too popular for good
taste, as this style of conspicuous dress
ing requires that the wearer thereon
should go about in her own private
trap and not In the ordinary public
conveyance. However, there is an at
traction about velvet, fur and lace that
is too strong to be resisted by the fem
mime world at large, and the fact of
incongruity stands for very little In
view of the fact that woman looks
her best gowned in this fashion.
Fur Trimmed Velvet Gowns
Very smart and neat are the dark vel
vet costumes trimmed with fur and
braid and made elaborate by the waist
coats, which are on the most elaborate
order. These velvet costumes, dark In
color, are not so long or so elaborate as
those of light colors, and yet have an
air about them and a distinctive ap-
pearance that makes them popular
with conservative minded individuals.
Red, green, blue and so on through
all the colors are to be had in cloth of
the most exquisite texture and finish
that lends itself beautifully to the new
models that require such close, fitting
garments These same coats and prin-
cess gowns, that have already been al
luded to, require to be made of this
cloth, for it fits closely to the figure,
can be made by interlining warm
enough for the coldest weather without
adding perceptibly to the size of the
waist, and at the same time draped in
to those long folds that are so artistic
and becoming and also permits of the
enormously wide skirts that are so
much the fashion without giving such
a lot of weight to carry about.
Somewhat on the severe order, but
very effective all the same, are the elab
crate tailor made gowns, with the three
quarter length coats that are fitted to
the figure and that are elaborately
trimmed with velvet, either plain or
embroidered, and with the facings of
contrasting colors. There is a new
skirt, sixteen cores, with tremendous
flare around the foot which is possible
with much trimming, and there is a
circular skirt on which trimming also
shows to great advantage, All this
width of skirt, with the broad shoulders
in the coat, makes the waist look
smaller and consequently makes the
gown look like this years model.
The sleeves now stand out from the
shoulders instead of dropping at the
top. They are not exaggerated in size,
in fact, as a rule are rather on the me-
dunn sizey but in some Of the long coats
Los Angeles herald., 1905-10-22
New Ideas i'm Gowns for
Brides and Bridesmaids

n NE of the pretty fashions that
London is sending us is new
~ bouquet which weighs only four
ounces. 1t will be a relief to brides
and bridesmaids who now totter up and
down the aisle at church weddings
under the weight of their bouquets.
Besides that the new arrangement of
flowers is far more artistic and beau
tlful than the old dumped flower bou-
uuet, which has been popular now for
so many seasons. People try to vary
the idea of flowers by having brides
maids carry parasols or muffs, while
the bride has a prayer book, but moth
ing ever seems to fill in the picture like
flowers.
At receptions hostesses will some
times carry flowers for a whole after
neon, and debutantes cling to an extra
heavy bouquet desperately, for 1t gives
them something to do with their hands,
Los Angeles herald., 1905-10-22
Old HaLOWe' en- Games
Among Scottish People

the underside a folded slip of paper
containing some prophecy regarding the
future, lay on pans and bake in an
oven with the underheat rather slack
that the papers may not be burned Or
instead of cookies bake a drop cake
mixture in patty pans, inserting in each
some tiny trinket such as a china doll.
The Halloween cake must be baked
in a large, round loaf and should be
made rather rich. like pound cake. In
the batter stir rinG, new penny, a
key and q thimble or button. In serv-
ing, the hostess first cuts the cake
into the proper number OF pieces with
out marring it's shape. 1t is then
passed round to the company. The
one in whose piece the ring is found
will be married within the year; the
penny indicates riches for its finder,
the key foretells the traveller. while the
unlucky one who secures the thinIble
or button is doomed to single life.
Los Angeles herald., 1905-10-22

| but there has been no effort to tighten
| the burden, and some of the great
| punches of violets or orchids weigh
more than a pound.
| The new idea comes from a fashion
| able florist, whose note paper pro-
claims him florist" by royal warrant
to his majesty King Edward.
Besides this he has list of American
customers who always patronize him
when they are in London or cable to
him from America when they wish
some floral remembrances sent to
friends in the English capital.
They have approved of the new bou-
quet and have carried it at drawing
rooms and at the smart weddings all
OF the season, for it is really an in
spiration in beauty as well as lightness.
It. marks the evolution of the bouquet
from the old fashioned bunch of stiff
flowers in a paper frill that our grand
mothers used to carry to the altar.
Then the queen has approved of it
and prefers 1t to the heavier ones, and
at the recent horticultural exhibition
it took a prize, and it deserved it. 1t
is called the "featherweight posy' and
has departed entirely from the usual
notion of a bouquet, for the florist has
arranged the flowers as a spray rather
than bunch.
1t is cleverly beautiful idea and
the erect is produced by the use OF
fragile looking but strong wire,
which is attached to the foliage and
flowers, but which is completely hidden
by being wound with branch green silk
tape that gives the effect of delicate
vibrating stem.
Instead of the heavy taffeta sash rib
bon, yards and yards Of which have
tied our recent bouquets, a very dainty
light silk gauze ribbon is used. The
effect is almost fairylike in it's delicacy,
the spray having an entirely natural
appearance, especially when one of the
many varieties of small orchids to be
found in London is used. Still the bou-
quet can be made up from nearly every
flower, although they do not all lend
themselves as pefectly to the idea as
the orchid, the valley lily and the rose.
For the queen this florist has chosen
a special orchid which he uses. 1t is
a delicate, pale tinted blossom, and he
has christened 1t the "Odontoglossum
Alevandrae" The queen has carried
it on several occasions at the palace.
Lilies of the valley are wonderfully
beautiful and especially dainty for de-
butantes when arranged in the new
cluster.
For brides lilies have been very fash
icnable and the newest idea has been
to carry them as a sheaf resting across
the arm, the branches unadorned by
any ribbon, this effect having been sug-
gested by one of Alma-Tadema's pic
lures at the Royal academy a few
seasons ago.
Los Angeles herald., 1905-10-22

A FTERNOON calling and reception
"A costumes are this season even
more attractive than last al
though there are many things about
them that appear much the same. To
begin with, the fact that 1t Is now
more fashionable to accentuate the
lines of the figure gives the gown a
rather smarter and more trim look, and
then, if possible, the trimmings and ma
terials are more attractive than last
season-more costly, if possible, and
yet with rather more subdued effect as
though the fashion had been modified
and improved upon. All the color
schemes are certainly finer.
The princess style is one that never
goes out of fashion and yet that never
can become universally fashionable
the reason being that it requires, to
begin with, that the wearer of a prin-
cess gown must have a very good ng-
ure and the maker of the gown must
needs be an artist in her profession.
A most charming gown of this de-
cription is made up in pale blue
cloth trimmed with sable and with
bands of embroidered velvet of a very
much deeper shade. The sable Is used
merely as an edge, with the effect or
being very SOU against Ile eIilploluSlSu
velvet. A chemisette or yoke of heavy
lace, that shows just at the throat,
where the folds of the material are
crossed, is of shade of lace that is
the most becoming, the real old lace
color, and IL an old piece of lace can
be used so much the better. This same
model in gray velvet is very artistic
and becoming with the embroidered
velvet, a pale yellow, and the fur chin
chilla instead of sable, although II
sable is becoming the color contrast
is Just as good with the gray and yell
low as if chinchilla were used.
Fancy waistcoats and girdles are all
important in the smartest of the new
gowns. The waistcoats are of fur and
velvet. of cloth or satin or silk braided
or embroidered or plain, with the
rarest of buttons. The coats are col
larless. as a rule. and the finish around
the neck is the same as is used on the
waistcoat. 1t is in the waistcoats and
eirdle and not in the trimmings around
fbe neck and sleeves that the new
color effects and the new trimmings
show to the best advantage and afford
an opportunity for the exercise of in
dividual taste.
Velvet is to be immensely tash1onaDle
again this season, and for the style of
gown that is required for afternoon
wear it is especially suitable. Black vel.
Los Angeles herald., 1905-10-22
Flannel Jackets
for the Babies

r OUR pretty flannel Jackets for
r. babies are shown in the illustra-
tions. They are useful to pro-
tect the babies from draughts, which
occur even in the most carefully ar
ranged nurseries. OF course, they are
not warm enough to be used out OF
doors, except between seasons.
The sacaues are all made of the finest
| white French flannel and trimmed with
a little hand work in fancy stitchery
or embroidery. Flannel Is really the
daIntiest material for the little sacques
and the most durable, although some
are shown made of white silk and lined
with thin flannel. There are also shown
sacuues in pale blue and pale pink, but
these are not in the best taste. White
is considered the most correct thing,
although if a baby possesses large
wardrobe 1t Is not out of place to have
one or two pale colored sacques among
dozen the rest of which are white.
The most easily made sacque in the IL
Illustrations has no sleeves. but is prac-
tically merely a rounded piece of flan-
mel cut into five sections. One section
forms the back, two are the fronts and
two being tied under the arms become
substitutes for sleeves. This sacque is
of the usual depth. The sacque when
lald out nat is dDOuI lHISS tllllSo do
long as it is deep.
The most beautiful embroidery, al
though always that which is light in de-
sign and simple in effect Is used to
ornament some of the little fianne,
Jackets. The embroidery may be all
in white, but it is quite in good taste
to have pale blue or pale pink used.
The little yoke sacque has the tucks
which make the yoke covered with rows
5pfc and dainty OngitII1inal
vines. 1t has also full sleeves, which
are rather unusual but very pretty in a
baby's sacque The vines and dots are
in pale pink and are equally pretty in
pale blue. The other embroidered
sacque is trimmed with quite an elab-
crate rose pattern. AS a usual thing
when the embroidery is heavy it is done
in white, while if very light, especially
If it is fancy stitching rather than en-
broidery it may be done in pale tints.
A most useful little hooded cape for a
baby to own and one which serves the
same purposes as the little sacques in
that ii is primarily intended to be worn
indoors as a protection from draughts,
is shown in the illustration. 1t is made
of one piece of flannel, which is square.
One corner is taken for the hood round
ed to fit the face and head and gathered
on a cord about the neck. The other
three corners fall free, the middle one
of course being much the largest. The
hooded cape may be pinked or bound or
hemmed and briar stitched all around.
1t is tied with ribbons at the throat
and a long ended bow may be placed at
the back of the neck. The cloak may
also be trimmed with a pretty design
in ribbon work.
Crocheted sacques are also popular,
and are made all in white or embroi-
dered with pink or blue silk.
Los Angeles herald., 1905-10-22
Missed Ono Thlna

Mr.. Smith, was held up and relieved
of all my valuables on the way home
from my lodge.
Captain of Police-What did the rob-
bers get?
Mr.. Smith-Everything except the
word.-Pittsburg Dispatch.
Los Angeles herald., 1905-10-22
Elk Easily Domestlcated

Elk are successfully domesticated in
the eastern states. In fact, they are the
only deer that can be easily reared in
captivity in practically any climate.
They will live without shelter and can
subsist on a hardy diet of bark and
twigs during the severe winter, when
the domestic animals would not sur
vive. They are prolific and their young
thrive. All this raises a question Of
considerable economic Importance.
The daily silver state. [volume] (Winnemucca, Nev.) 1903-1907, 1905-02-18

Fraternal societies of the United States
have organized for the purpose of erect
and Clark Exposition. Over $40, 900 has
been pledged toward the project and the
erection of a beautiful and appropriate
structure is assured.
The daily silver state. [volume] (Winnemucca, Nev.) 1903-1907, 1905-02-18

CALIFORNIA; building at the Lewis an
Clark Exposition will be four times a
large as the pavilion the State erected q
st. Louis.
The daily silver state. [volume] (Winnemucca, Nev.) 1903-1907, 1905-02-18
1TCH-R1NawoRM.

z. T. Lucas. Wingo, KY, writes. April
Is. 1902: For 10 to IL years I a been
afflicted with a malady known as tho
Itch The itching was most unbearab.e
/ had tried for years to find relief, having
tried all Lies I could hear of, besides
a number of doctors. wish to state
that one single application of Billiards.
Slow Liniment cured me completely and
permanently. Since then I have used e
liniment on two separate occasions for
ringworm and 1t cured completely. Csc,
Soc and $1.W. Sold by Brown Bros.
The daily silver state. [volume] (Winnemucca, Nev.) 1903-1907, 1905-02-18
800 REWARD. loo.

The readers Of this paper will be pleas
ed to learn that there Is at least one
dreaded disease that science has been
able to cure in all its stages, and that
is Catarrh. Halls Catarrh Cure is the
only positive cure now known to the med
ical fraternity. Catarrh being a consti-
tutional disease. requires a constitutional
treatment. Halls Catarrh Cure is taken
internally, acting directly upon the blood
and mucous surfaces of the system
thereby destroying the foundation of the
disease, and giving the patient strength
by building up the constitution and as
sisting nature in doing it's work. The
proprietors have so much faith In Its
urative powers that they offer One Hun
ored Dollars for any case that it fails to
cure. Send for list of testimonials.
Address F. J. CHENEY & CO., Toledo,
Ohio.
Sold by all Druggists, TIC.
Take Halls Family Pills for constipa-
ton.
CALIFORNIA; building at the Lewis and
Clark Exposition will be four times as
large as the pavilion the State erected at
st. Louis.
GROUP
Begins with the symptoms of q conn, or
cold: there Is chilliness, sneezins. sor
throat. hot skin, quick pulse. hoarsenesz
and impeded respiration. Give frequent
small doses of Rallaard's Horehound
Syrup (the child will cry for i) and al
the first sign of a croupy cough apply
frequently Billiards. Srow Liniment tc
the throat.
Mrs. A. vliet. New q stle. Colo. writes,
March 10. 1902: II Think Billiards. Hore-
hound Syrup a wonderful remedy and sc
pleasant to take"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28
A Pleasing Perfume.

Some women are very fond of perfumins
their clothes so that they may wait de-
lightful aroma about wherever they go.
Violet saches or powders are the smart
est. and, indeed, there are people who say
any other perfume is vulgar. But Il
scented lotion may be liked and found use
full for the pertaining of gloves and slip
pers which should be sponged inside with
it, Take of extract of ambergris two
drops only and of spirits of wine one ounce.
or. to make more plentiful supply. pro-
coed in this proportion. and the result will
be found to be decidedly refreshing and
lasting aroma
y fragrant perfume for putting up into
little bags TO lay among linen DIRE. ses
Is made by taking one ounce each of ..oves,
caraway seeds, nutmeg. mace, cinnamon
and tonquin beans and adding as much
f'lorentine orris root as will equal all the
other ingredients put together Grind the
Whole to a fine powder. and put it into
muslin bags.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28
COLORED NECKWEAR.
Some of the Fads and Fancies Recently
Shown.

What shall buy to set off these heauti-
full embroidered collars uncle has just sent
me from Europe?" asked fortunate girl
who had just received a box of the stiff
turnover collars now considered so smart
for wear with tailored shirt waists. Many
another girl, who having no kindly uncle,
must buy her neckwear. is asking herself
almost this same question: what shall
wear with my straight and faring linen col
'ars?''
The girl who spends a goodly portion of
her weekly allowance on just such little
iiXings will find her answer in the season 5
fascinating assortment of Windsor ties,
somewhat larger than her young brothers S.
and in most unique designs, while the girl
who fashions her own neckwear will resort
to pompadour ribbon, surah silk and crepe
de chine, with ends of the finest of hand
made lace and embroidery.
Most approved of all neckwear for morn
Ing use is the Windsor tie in the brightest
and most striking of Scotch plaids and in
plain coiors set off by Roman stripes Par
ticularly summary are the lemon-coiored
surah ties, crossed diagonally at intervals
with old world blues and browns and reus
in the familiar variegated Roman stripe.
Windsor ties whcn utilized as fourth
hands have wide-farng ends. and are much
larger in every way than the tie in it's
usual size Many of these are stamped In
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

gaudy design of marvellous eoloring. Huge
peonies in red have the petals separated to
show white between. giving a Spanish
mackerel effect and surrounded by
deep, winding blue border. Blue ties show
two-inch discs of green, edged with white,
Sprinkled their surface. One cool
looking white tie is bordered with narrow
Nile green stripes the green discs appearing
in the center.
Accordion pleating is the foundation of
all handmade ties this summer, and the
deft-hngered girl has suggestion of 1t
somewhere each of her stocks and ties.
A charming tie fashioned in one home circle
was evolved from two pieces of wide pom
padour ribbon The pink center of the rib
bon was laid in side pleats, leaving the
plain border of pink and white prlmroseS
on each side. The two pieces We're then
fastened into a tight knot of pink ribbon
at the top. and the ends We're hemmed up
in a point The most radiant of shaded
ribbons can also be picked up for making
ties of this design
Four-in- hands of crepe de chine in pastel
blues and pinks and lavenders have their
ends embroidered with single blossoms in a
contrasting shade of silk A pale pink tie
shows a small blue rosebud near the point
of one of its ends, blue tie is embroid
cred with simple marguerite in white
silk. Other long ties have their diamond
shaped ends overlaid edged with broderic
Anglais on white lawn silk of the
same shade as the tie. These eyelet-work
embroderies make wonderfully effective
finish for serviceable ties of dark blue or
brown or red. Four-in-hands of figured
silk occasionally show fringed ends.
Chic little bows to set off straight stocks