The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-10-09
THE FASHIONS
ANOTHER SERSOY OF BOLEROS
 AND ETONS
Darker Shades and Softer Fabrics or Frocks-White BrOadelOth Trimming for Tailor Froeks-More Hats Seen at Recent Openings.

Hats Seen at Recent Openings.
 There is something eminently satisfy ing in the first appearance of the tailor made gown in contrast to the end-of-the season costumes. Perhaps more than a critical glance is admissible, for its strong and weak points are to be deter mined. Such details are generally in- teresting to women, but particularly So | at this season, when the school days necessitate warmer clothing,
 It is a relief to note among those tailor-made gowns seen, no startling lnnovations-the general design being a modified or slightly accentuated form of the same styles worn for several sea- sons. There is more that is quiet and and restful in the weave and color ot the new fall fabrics than is usually mo- ! ticed at the beginning of a season. Soft shades and public weaves, sug- 1 gestive of harmony, are in marked con- trast to last seasons discordant colors, which seemed to scream at one from | the shop windows. There are variety of every gay plaids, similar to those which come and go from time to time, i but we all know that their colors are extremely dark, one of the most popu- lar being a blue, almost blue-black, in 1 appearance. The wine shades are dark CT this year; there are half-dozen or so shades of plum, rich in effect, and numberless grays, from soft smoke color to pale pearl, which are used for ] the dressier tailor frocks. Poplins, French cashmeres. Henriettas, and l broadcloths are appropriate for house i gowns and afternoon frocks. i On some very smart gowns, white broadcloth is effectively used for trim ming. This is frequently hand em- broiGeYed, or combined with applied bands, giving a somewhat similar. fin- ish. Narrow black soutache braid, sew ed on in rows, makes a satisfactory | trimming for white broadcloth vests and waistcoats, which, by the way, are worn as much, if not more, this sea- son than during the previous fall and winter.
 Among the number of gowns and suits recently seen in a shop which handles all that is best in fashionable
 
 boleros and Eton coats as Empire and long mannish cuts. These short jack cts have the advantage of illimitable changes in the way of blouses and chemisettes with which they are worn. Early fall however, Is the season when such gowns are seen to the best ad- vantage, for after a wrap becomes nec- essary, their distinctive features are hidden, and only the untrimmed skirts 1 are to be seen.s9 On the other hand, with most of the long coat suits, an additional golf vest worn underneath, gives sufficient protection for moderate weather, and as rule the short jack ct suit, is more becoming to the aver- age woman.
 An imported blue homespun demon strated the uses to which white broad cloth as trimming may be put, The suit was dressy tailor-made gown, the skirt having a double box plait down the centre of the back and front the fulness of the side widths being formed of tiny tucks extending a few tinches below the waistline. The bot tom of the skirt was formed of a wide box-plaited flounce, finished at the tor with flatly stitched bands. The short jacket terminated a trife above the waistline, a seperate girdle of blue ipanne velvet, corresponding with the gown in color, showing beneath. The outer collar of the jacket was we'll rounded in the back, extending down the front on either side in the form of a rever, The inner portion of the col lar was made of white broadcloth, upon which rows of narrow black soutache braid were applied crosswise. Where the collar ended on either side in front was a wide, turned-back flap of vel
 vet, the pointed end of which was held in place by a smart gun~metal button, bullet-shaped, with a silver centre. The jacket was fastened with loops, a double row of buttons giving it a l double breasted effect when closed. The two back seams of the jacket were | covered with wide-stitched bands, each finished at the bottom with a velvet strap fastened in the centre with two | gun-metal buttons. The top of the 1 sleeve was quite full, and similar to the regulation lego mutton, the fitness tapering into a turned-back cuff, by means of four small stitched tucks,
 A lightweight English serge suit was 1 also in good taste. The skirt was made with circular sides, fitted at the top into a well-made side yoke with flat front panel, The back of the skirt fas- tened under a double box-plait, under which three wide bias bands which | formed the bottom trimming, terminat- ed. The coat of this suit was short Eton, finished with a narrow vest of the serge with a still narrower inner vest of black panne velvet, fastened with double row of round buttons of Dresden design. A round white broad cloth collar was stitched on the inside | of a wider collar of velvet, the white being relieved by rows of narrow black braid. At the bustline on either side, and on the top of the sleeve near the centre, was an entirely new trimming formed of three stitched openings closely grouped, through which black satin was visible Each opening was ' fastened in the centre with a button corresponding with those which trim l med the vest.
 Very attractive this season are the ' rin Iodae of tho Iipbfn1@ oOIoyse