Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-30

blouse was of White liberty satin.
x
X
A beautiful lightweight velvet carriage
wrap for mourning wear was seen the other
day. 1t was cut out so much around the
neck as to leave not only the stock but
most of the black chiffon guirnpe of the
gown showing. there being kimono cut to
the top and sides. so that there was no col
lar and no marked point of closing. Hooks
and eyes were concealed under the edges of
the coat to close it when desired. The tops
of the sleeves extended up to the three
inch band of mingled chiffon, chenille and
soutache that formed the border. Some
three inches below the edge of the shoulder
there was similar band of the trimming
from which the sleeves proper fell in wide
effect, somewhat like modified kimono
sleeves. The inside of the sleeves hung
straight, but at the back under the trim
ming box plat was laid in the velvet and
the backs Sianted down and out, bordered
with three-inch trimming. At the bottom
of these outside seams-the sleeves being
open at the back from the band down
were dropping Vshaped points. the outer
edges being carried some six inches below
the wrist or straight across the portion of
the sleeves that ended at the hands. The
border extended around the points and up
across the straight part of the sleeves.
These sleeves We're full as to be prac-
tically closed in the back. The back of the
coat as we'll as the fronts hung straight
and boX-like to a point half way between
the knees and the floor. but was slashed
up to form battlements ten inches wide
and twenty-four inches deep, the velvet
being slashed almost to the waist line.
There were eight of these battlement sec
tons, each bordered with band of SOU
tache. chenille and chiffon. The chiffon and
chenille forms roses and le2~es and the SOU
tache outlines some of the designs and also
the edges of the bands. The wrap was lined
with black liberty satin, and was worn over
trailing carriage gown of black chiffon
cloth, topped by a large black hat draped
with a black Brussels veil.
An Irish crochet lace coat bodice, to be
worn with almost any handsome skirt and
one that can have its knots of ribbon
changed to match each skirt worn with it,
is practical for varying ones toilets. To
begin with, the coat is cut with a round
or Dutch neck, which may, if desired have
a stock and guimpe inserted. A flounce of
much finer lace is attached around the
neck, and forms a deep, pointed drapery
in both the front and the back the center
point extending in the front below the bust
line; on the shoulders the lace extends out
to, but not over, the sleeve tops. Folds of
white chiffon and tulle form a heading to
in the back, but little loose in the fronts
and ends under girdle made of folds of
liberty satin ribbon. This girdle. however,
is removable, and underneath-it is a sha ped
bias section of heavy white silk three
inches wide, that holds the coat tightly
around the waist line. The skirt Of the
coat is of Irish crochet some nine inches
deep, being set under this girdle on 70 the
inner belt, and forming a slightly futed
extension. Across the front of the coat,
midway between the bertha and the grdle
is twist of liberty satin ribbon each end
terminating under a chou to match The
cla ftItl 1jcyht iI- OF no Il
form large, slightly dropping puffs banded
in TO fit the arm just above the elbows and
finished by hounces of lace matching the
bertha. These founces are nine inches deep
at the outside and seven at the inside.
Twists of liberty satin, matching whatever
color is used for the girdle and bodice
decorations, are twisted around the sleeves
and cover the joining of the lace founces
who owns this original coat has just
brought from Paris a trunkful of chic
gowns and wraps One skirt to be worn
with this last coat is of rcse-pink chiffon
cloth that just escapes the floor all the way
around the bottom. 1t is sunray plated in
sections-that is there are three sections of
the skirt that overlap, and each is sunray
plated. The foundation slip of rose-col-
ored chiffon taffeta is finished below the
cord that holds it out from around the feet
with double ruffle of Valenciennes lace
that may be removed and Numbered and
this ruffle, six inches deep, serves as a pro-
a shade longer. A large, oval fiat hat of
pure white chip, with an almost straight
brim and a two-inch crown, has folds of
white tulle around the crown, and at the
front, bit to the left, where the brim
undulates a little to form a depression, a
single enormous shaded pink rose is fas-
tened. There is a low bandeau covered
with white tulle to raise the hat & trife
a veil of point applique lace is draped over
it, and there is also a long. accordion
plated scarf of rose-colored chiffon, to be
worn about the neck or draped over the
shoulders, when desired.
x X
One of the very latest touches in Paris
ian gowning is straight panel effect. I'M
broken at the waist line, from the guimpe
to the floor, the panel being formed of A
single piece of the gown material The
gown just arrived from road, on which this