Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-16

chiffon mousseline with girdle and trim
mings of pale pink chiffon taffetas. This
was made all over with tuck shirrings.
The two little frocks illustra ted, however,
will give the idea of what the usual girl
will wear, for tbs grander effects must nee
essarily be limited to the few
The first gown Is of white embroidered
swiss over pink silk, the girdle and fchu
and sleeve bands being of pink chiffon
taffetas.
Chameleon silk mousseline forms the
second dress, with trimmings of plain
white net and Valenciennes. The yoke is
made of fancy lace net, and the ribbon
furnishings and edges on the sleeve fr1lls
of green velvet. Most Of the frockS pro-
vided for young girls smart evening wear
concert, theater and school dance-show
ribbon trimmings, which in the lowered
sorts are productive of most beautiful re
suits Some entirely new ribbons used for
sashes have only the borders patterned,
and this above deep fringes In the SASH
color Naturally tinted wreaths OF sradu-
ating roses form a loop upon PLAIN Wnlte,
pale blue or pink grounds, the effect of the
garlauded blooms being one of exceeding
distinction especially when the sash ana
gown are white.
Separate Bodices.
In the matter of separate bodices the
shirt waist and the blouse are more than
ever far apart in style, for the shirt waist
is more mannishly plain than ever and
the blouse more extravagantly dressy.
Misses bodices are necessarily restrained
to some extent in point of lavlshness, but
upon the grown-up blouse Is nung every
thing which can be flung with reason Be
ginning with a plain net, fancy blouse
may show sections of lace net, colored RIB
bon embroideries, and applications or irish
or fancy lace.
With the shirt waist proper there Is a
tendency to go oack to the stiff linen collar
with a narrow tie in the shirt material
A new and very smart stock for black silk
or plain color waists, is made of colored SILK
handkerchiefs in the fiamboyant hues and
patterns of the southern mammys head
han cher" The big mouchoirs are cut bias,
the folded neck part being very narrow
and the floating ends very wide. They are
crossed four-in-hand fashion, and held
down by a fancy stick PIN
Misses separate coats run to a great de-
gree to three-quarter and thigh lengths, and
upon the thinner cloths strapping of the
same are often employed with admirable
effect. A few of. the longer models are cut
to tit almost closely, and are without any
break at the waist line; but looser coats
are more generally admired, and the very
latest effects almost invariably show a
back and side betting even If the front Is
loose. A shaped double box pleat fitted TO
a yoke and extending from the bust is one
very smart front finish for dashing three
quarter coats in covert and rain materials.
Fine and Gay.
In the hat world materials and colors are
line ana gay. A Ger tam Sliip4iIiIS VI iiiio
also marks the up-to-date model. Hats are
smaller even than during the summer. and
all those for dressy Wear display a perky
tilt of the side or back. and fluctuations at
new points The little feather hats, which
are generally the first autumn models to
put in an appearance are seen in the usual
colorS, but in new shapes of remarkable
hecomingness The turbans IN these nave
high rims lifting highest at the left the
crown and all the upper portion OF the nat
being in paler feathers than those en-
ployed upon the brim.
A good feather hat in a brilliant color
may be worn entirely without trimming.
but sometimes bird or a pair of wings
added at the left front increases the good
effect.
The oiseauX now seen in Dame Fashions
aYiary are wonderfully made by man, but
the very fairy artihciality of them adds
TO their attraction. Entire birds and wings
of the oldest description are more seen on
misses hats than ostrich feathers, but
when the gown is very fine the ostrich
plume is invariably used. With practical
hats, when the sitter ready-to-wear sorts
are not becoming. there is sometimes a
single panache two of cock s plumeS,
placed at the side or back. with a velvet
crown band.
The under trimming OF misses millinery
depends upon the coiffures elaborateness'
for of course the extravagantly high hair
bands are not for girls who still wear their
hair in simple brads at the nape of the
neck. Still. almost all hats require the
hair to be fussily fixed, and the really IN
fortunate girl is she of Indian straight
locks, which sort can never be arranged
other than fatty. The fluffy. curly, bouffant
head Is Fashions darling, and when the
palmer one attempts to wear its headgear
fairness must be eked out everywhere with
fussy hair bows.
In fact much of stylish appearance
depends upon a careful and elaborate Golf
fure, SO it comes about often that even very
young heads thinly matched, must take
to the false piece This, however, is TO be
deplored, as false hair, no matter how light
ly made. is heating. Bows of lightweight
black taffeta are far more to be desired,
even If prejudice were not against the false
piece.
Among the little things in dress some
handkerchiefs in fine cross-barred linen are
charming and late novelties. The cross
barring is all over and the hem very mar
row. They are seen in all the delicate col
ors as well as white. MARY DEAN.