davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06
Sandwiches for the Picnic

Tomato Sandwiches Peel some fire ton,a-
toes, remove the seeds nress ont ~
water, season the pulp with pepper salt
oil. vinegar and lastly little freshly gr.tad
Parmesan cheese. Spread this mixture on
a slice of buttered brown bread, cover with
another slice and cut into small SQUARES
Eoie Gras Sandwiches.-Run n very thin
layer of aspic jelly into shallow II, srob
as the lid of a biscuit box, and on tbis
spread the foie gras. Cover this again with
a thin layer of jelly. and when quite set
turn it out. put it between thin slices of
bread and butter and trim into shane
wen. HaVored Gotted meat may be substi-
tuted for the foe gras.
Salmon Sandwiches.-Flake Some cold
salmon. put it in a mortar and pound with
butter and seasoning of salt and penner
Pour over 1t a little thick mayonn,ise ard
some chopped capers.- Spread between thin
slices OF bread pressed together and cut in
diamonds.
Egg Sandwiches. - Boil three eggs for
twenty minutes. then plunge them into
cold water. When cold remove the shells.
Pound the yolks and whites in mortar
adding salt and pepper to taste, one ounce
of butter and dessertspoonful Of cream
Keep on pounding the eggs while these in
gradients are being mixed in. Spread be-
tween thin squares of buttered bread
Shrimp Sandwlches.-Pick the shrimps.
Wash and dry some watercress and flavor
tablespoonful of thick cream with little
anchovy sauce. Cut thin slices of brown
bread. cover half the slices with cress, mix
the shrimps with the favored cream and
put thin layer over the cress. Cover with
another slice of bread and cut into small
squares
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06
Secret of Harmony in Color.

Martha Cutler IN iarpers Bazaar.
All the colors have certain definite quail
ties. They are not only light or dark in
themselves, but some colors reflect more
light than others. and are thus capable of
changing the light in a room. They are
classified according to their luminosity in
this orier-yellow, orange, green, red. blue
tints and shades will bring sunshine and
warmth into a dark room. Green and red
with their tints and shades, I'm ess they
are too dark, have little effect in changing
the light. while blue and purple may be
used in very bright rooms. The classical
ton according to warmth and GOODNESS is
quite similar The warm colors are yelIows.
red-brownS reds and olive green's; the cod
colors blue-green, blue, purple and the
neutral tones of the warm colorS. The
character and atmosphere of a room-its
coziness. or its formalty-are dependent
upon this decided characteristic of colors.
room with dark-red walls and rich
hangings suggests the coZinesS of an open
fire on a winters evening" green room
the cool, reStful shade of the forest on a
warm summers day, while warm golden
yellow suggests sunshine itself. The cod
colors recede from and hence form good
backgrounds and make a small room APP
pear larger. The warm colors advance,
make good bits of contrasting color against
the colder tones and make room appear
smaller. The darker shades of all the
colors draw the walls of a room together
make an entire house appear large and
airy. Ceilings may be made to appear
higher with light retiring colors. and lower
with the advancing and dark colors.
A room with blue walls will appear much
larger than room with red walls, while
one with light green walls wi appear
much larger than one with dark green or
with light yellow.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06
,s,.ss .,.s..a,...ssss
PARIS FASHIONS

Special Correspondence Of The Star.

Special Correspondence Of The Star
PARIS, July -, 1905.
The last Fashionable gathering of the sea-
son was held at the Polo Club yesterday
afternoon. The company was an unusually
distinguished one for this time of the year.
Conspicuous in the crowd of beautifully
gowned women was the Comtesse Matthew
lie Noaiiles, who was looking particularly
graceful and attractive in costume IF
soft silk in pale lilac. with CLEANS of silver
about the sleeves and collar. A large
cravat of plated lawn and valenciennes
lace gave her coat a charming directo;se
air. The hat that crowned the masses of
her dark hair was of silverish white crno-
line, laden with lilac blossoms. This dainty
little comtesSe was receiving congratulate
lions on all sides upon the success of her
latest book LA Domino ton" a volume
full of delightful impressions and much
original keenness of perception. But amid
her books and study she does not overlook
the charm and coquetry of the toilet In
deed ii is no longer fashionable not to be
well read and well informed The trivial
gossip of a limited circle. the lack of an alb
sorblng interest except in dress and domes-
Tie matters dates back to some years ago.
Even the young girls one meets in society
now are far better schooled in the worlds
progress than the older women who have
willfully allowed themselves to be left be-
hind through mental laziness The modern
girl, to be sure, has bad manners, and she
is proverbally self-seeking, but she does
realize that brains are necessary to get her
or in the world and that il is part of her
business in life 10 have a hobby of some
Kind. Many of the mothers of today gave
up their lessons when they left school, but
their daughters of eighteen know that If
they are to succeed and hold their own
study is necessary The French converts
are adopting more modern curriculumS and
up-to-date instruction is given A girl
brought up in the modern fashion IS less
of bore to other people and does not think
of clipping with the Coachman or chauffeur
as did the romantic young lady of yore.
But to get down to the business of clothes
At the present moment there are two in
fictitious diseases abroad-the midsummer
sales and bridge. The strong minded may
risk losing their money at bridge but not
on the bargain counter. The great trouble
is that these fantastic sales follow too
closely on the heels of the eXtravagapt
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06

bodice, the latter being a swathed affair
insertions OF old Brussels point were used
on the bodice and the guimpe. also V
shaped. and the sleeves and veil were all
Of Brussels.
The alleged travelling" dress gowns of
these brides seem bit outre for that pur
pose to American taste.
Mrs Bells travelling gown was an en-
brOidrred white muslin topped by pic
ture hat Of Irish lace with pink roses at the
side.
Mrs Haig's travelling gown was white
mOuSSeline taffeta, trimmed with bands of
silk embroidery arranged in festoons and
caught. The festoons were fastened with
raised tafeta roses. There was a wide
Nnun sash edged with narrow plaitings of
chiffon edged with valencienneS lace. the
sloping collar of the bodice was applqued
with empire wreaths in lace and Ninon
crepe. Her white directoire hat had Os-
prey feathers at the front and pale pink
roses at the back
Both brides were presented by the king
and queen with diamond and pearl tiaras
and by the Prince and Princess Of Wales
with gold muf chains, with plumes in dia-
monds.
Mrs. Philip a. Clark Miss Greta Pom
eroyD, July Newport bride. was In New
ork with her husband a few days since 70
see her mother. Mrs. Pomeroy. and ner
younger sister, Miss Mary Pomeroy, off
for Europe
Mrs. Clark was in white. a slightly trail
ing skirt and simple blouse. The former
had appliques In fine white braid of small
geometrical designs and insertions of mar
row lace. The lace insertions in the body
outlined yoke. The sleeves. wrist lens H..
had oval medaIlions OF embroidery edged
with lace a little below the shoulders The
lower part of the sleeves showed lace in
serdons. These sleeves were quite small
and without much fulness anywhere.
The skirt was Of fine linen. was bordered
on the extreme edge with Renaissance lace
that extended up the skirt in irregular in
Gen;a'ions. Further up the skirt were in
scrtions OF small mcdallions. and there were
also small appliques. AT the top the skirt
had few gathers. \ white linen belt was
worn.
Mrs. CIarKs hat was white straw piped
with black velvet and having fine black
laccs stretched over the top. II had a low
hrim, and was moderately wide. with the
left side turned up to the crown. Masses
OF small white flowers were set on in three
clusters against the upturned side and back.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06

sci of three and tiny one in each point.
The blouse to go with this costume is OF
very fine linen. and has sleeves that pun
out above and at the elbows, and are tuck
ed into bands of bradwork matching that
on the coat. These sleeves end little be-
low the elbows. The stock and square yoke
are of the braid work. and the body OF the
blouse and of the sleeves are of fine linen.
X
Miss Annie Best was in town from New
port recently in a white linen, one of the
princess skirts-she is partial to princess
gowns, which show off her full figure Won
dcrfully well-and short Elton or bolero
jacket to match The skirt was moderately
short, say, three inches from the floor. and
the seams We're outlined with embroidery
o. fine braid where they extended from the
top down over the hips. The bolero was
also finished around the edges with fine
braid or embroidery: it had elbow length,
faring sleeves. Her large hat was draped
with a wide white chiffon veil that hung
off the sides at the back.
pink linen skirt and Elton coat have
fine fern leaves in openwork. English en-
broidery in white. The skirt IS gored to fit,
and has four underlying plaits in the back.
1t escapes the ground four inches and
flares at the bottom. Eight inches from the
set on to the jupe, Is a two-inch band of
the linen stitched on. At the lower edge
OF the circular f1ounce are two half-inch
bias strappings of the linen an inch apart
and the lower an inch from the hem An
inch above this two-inch band heading the
fiOunCe the OpenWork fern leaves begin;
they are arranged so that the curving tops
for they twist like curling feathers-half
come at the bottom and the others at the
upper part, the top of each curling in under
the base of the next. This section of en-
brodery is eight inches wide. and above it
is an inch-wde strapping and then a six
inch section of the embroidery is exactly
like the other. save that the design is
smaller. This section is headed by an inch
wide strapping.
The girdle is formed of three-inch- wide
strappings stitched to a shaped foundation
that points a little below the waist band in
both the back and the front and at both
top and bottom.
The jacket comes to the belt and swings
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06

summer rousseau. The providcnt manager
will doubtless says: 'All the more reason
to make hay while the sun Shines" Still
another objection is found in the woman
who goes bargaining" with you who often
makes herself odious before the end of the
trip. She invariably captures the treas
ures you have carelessly overlooked, and
unconsciously you let her in for a length
of something you are pining for. At least
this has been my experience over and over
again. from which | have now drawn the
moral, Always go bargaining alone"
Plaids in shadow effects are to be found
al the sales. and later on will make at
tractive little gowns In the autumn there
is always the cry of wolf anent plaids.
but it looks as though the danger signal
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06

the back and semi-ftting in front. The
mannish collar and narrow turned-ba backed
cuffs of black velvet. The sleeves are
rather close-fitted coat affairs.
Smart travelling skirts and coats in Gin
namon brown rajah silk are finished with
neat velvet collars and cuffs The coats
reach about two inches below the waist and
are either single or double breasted. with
outside Tapped seams and sleeves of small
dimensions squared on the shoulders and
reaching to the wrist. where they finish
with a braided cuff The small notched col
lar is also braided. The skirts clear the
ground and are either box-plaited or made
with a double flounce. which design is a
faVorite with the couturier The new
French travelling dust coats are cut on the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06

sorts of fancies to the wearing of their
jeWeled chains. 1t is not considered chic to
wear a rope of pearls around the neck. The
pearls must be arranged in more original
fashion about the bodice Have you ever
thought how strange it is that the pearl 80
lustrous 2G0 years ago will be just as bril-
liant 200 years hence?
The diamond that glitters today will shed
its light as temptingly at the opera a thou
sand years hence, if they indulge in the
amusement then, unless this planet in the
meanwhile is annihilated by some of the
catastrophes which scientists declare pOssi-
BILE This is a dismal subject and a dull
one to contemplate, but 50 are the mid
season 5 fashions.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06

being worn with a coat or channels lining
underneath. This coat may be made at
nome without difficulty, if a good pattern be
mad Cravenette is best for waterproof
purposes while homespun a good serge
Is also appropriate. The styles for these
garments are in two modes. the straight
hanging coat, which possesses a real style
and is seen in SO many of the new import
ed models for older people and the one
having side or box pleats hanging from the
shoulder and belted at the waist
CHRISTINE CORDIZ
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06

and above these is a four-inch straight
band of the heavy braid work
The Elton coat has sleeves that end above
the elbows, and each has a large wheel
surrounded by the braid work in it's top.
In the outer middle sections the sleeves
are cut up in small inverted battlements
Five rows of fine white braid of fancy
weave are stitched on closa together around
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06

near one another and were the best Of
friends but the first envied the second her
cook. She actually went TO see that cook
one morning and offered her more money
than she was then getting. But the loyal
cook declined to change her place.
Two or three days later the two women
met at dinner party, and the second cut
the first dead
Why, Mrs. Jones' said the hostess
you know Mrs. Brown. don't your
Mrs. Jones, with sniff, replied:
" L believe not. She sometimes calls on
my cook | understand ."
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06

skirt was made in two sections. an over
tapping founce effect. The sections were
the same width and each was embroidered
IN pointed scallops in white and also was
embroidered above this point
The Elton coat ended at Tie waist lire.
showing glimpse of the belt matching the
costume. This jacket was loose across the
back, swinging out from the figure. and had
sleeves of little more than elbow length
widening from the shoulders. The fronts OF
the jacket did not meet. The neck was cut
round. Bordering the neck ard all the
edges of the Jacket and the bottom of the
skirt.
From Paris comes the statement that
winter hats in brown will not b. fashion,
able. while mouse gray is % be much the
mode. Grays In nearly all shades. includ-
ing blue grays. mauve grays and steels. will
be worn. Gray is a trying color to many
and to coorless people especially. The
woman with pale eyes and hair and no
color would better wear almost any other
color under the sun than gray.
A very handsome costume that came over
last week In the wardrobe of IL pronine mt
New York woman is made of rather heavy
white linen and is trimmed with large and
heavy wheels in woven designs, and rise
much above the linen. These are inserted
in groups. The front of the skirt has a mar
row straight panel that is of equal width at
the waist line and knees. Ths panel IS
tucked and IS outlined on each side by Il
two-inch insertion of heavy open braid lace
At the bottom one of the smaller wheels
sets up on it and extends across the tucked
panel. which is only six inches broad Each
SIDE of this, but half its width below, are
two more wheels joined to the first. Then
comes a large wheel ten inches across sur
rounded by a two-inch frame of the heavy
lace. Similar panels show at the sides. and
In the back there is another group Of
wheels, but comprising seven instead of
four and the back of the skirt is tucked
from waist line to the hem. Around the
bottom of the skirt are five half-inch tucks
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06
(,dE1' 1y&6AMn@5 Z8M&@t J

that go around and over it. This top is
circular, and is cut that the sides come
within four inches OF meeting at the top
From this point the sides are cut away in
inv erted semi-circles, and at the terminal
ton of these semi-crcles the Jacket fronts
come within three inches of meeting. At
the bottom the fronts slightly pointed,
extending below the sides. Three small
wheels appear each side of the front
near the top, with large one below each
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06
Her Retort Courteous.

From the New York Tribune.
at is very wrong for one woman to try
to get another woman's servants AWAY
from her." said the Rev. Anna Shaw of the
American Woman's Suffrage Association.
st is very wrong. and it creates good
deal of bad feeling.
Two women of my acquaintance lived
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06

the battlement and bottom of each sleeve.
The jacket has three small wheels down
the center back and two at each side. with
braid work between, the border being about
ali the linen there is and this * nearly con-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06
No Deadbeats Wanted.

From the Chicago News.
Il want some live beets.'' said the youn.
housewife.
Live beets!" echoed the grocery.nan
yes she replied my husband says he
has no use for dead ones"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06
This veil hung Off the back nearly to her

This veil hung of the back nearly to her
shoulders.
One of the costumes brought from Paris
by social leader just arrived from abroad
is pale yellow-for it has too much color to
be called tan-chiffon broadcloth for au-
tumn wear 1t has novel touches. 1t is for
carriage wear only. and the skirt touches
in front and more than touches elsewhere.
and a semi-coat effect Is given by the way
in which the top of the skirt and the bot
tom of the bodice are finished.
The skirt Is apparently in three sections
the upper one giving the coat-skirted APP
pearance.
The foundation section is circular, ana
therefore full at the bottom and skin tight
at the top. at least the upper section Is.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06
srcclnl Correspondence of The Star.

NEW YORK, August 1, 1908.
RS. WILLIAM X. VANDERBILT
kI7 jr-, seldom appears In mauve. but
E she has at least one notably sim
II pie and pretty mauve froCli made
or worn over white slip. The ma
teral is the finest French organ
die or chiffon, 1t may be either, for the
writer was not near enough to decide. AS
1t was worn at midday in town to public
restaurant, the presumption is that it was
organdie.
The bodice is one of the close. pointed
ones with the material shirred around the
figure in scant gathers. 1t of course mas
no girdle. being pointed. The elbow sleeves
are also shirred around the arm, rather
the sleeves are shirred In little ruche eff
feCts at the outside of the arm from the
shoulders to the elbows, and the organdie
lies in scant gathers around the arms The
stock is of lace
The slightly trailing sklrt-Mrs- Wander
bilt wears either trailing frocks or cX-
tremely short skirts-is gathered slightly
around the waist and around the bottom.
Each rUffle IS some three inches from the
next, and there are five of them, all very
narrow rufiles. These are side plated and
are not over an inch and a half wide one
IS set on the extreme edge of the skirt.
The bridal gown of the Dorothy Vivian.
who married Major Gen. Douglas Haig,
a brother of Mrs Ogtvy Haigs husband.
a white satin princess robe with a
round tram. At the left side of the skirt
were tall Madonna lilies embroidered in
chenille. brlliants and crystal heads. and
at the left side of the bodice was a single
smaller lily. The sleeves and V-shaped
guimpe were of old Brussels lace, and 50
was the veil.
The Hon. Mary Dyke. another of the
queens maids of honor, who married Capt.
Bell. and who was married at the same
time as the Hon. Dorothy Vivian. was also
In white satin made with a long train. Deep
Indian embroidery in silver thread bOrdered
the skirt, which was separated from the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06

this time will have to be needed. Then
there are dainty lace and muslin sleeveless
galore. the oid-fashioned ones great
gTeat-grandmothers made with such inf
mite pains OF yellowed book muslin. For
the benefit of the home fashioner of sleeve
lets and fuckers l would say that to get
exactly the right touch the muslin il dipped
i'm weak solution of coffee. One. though,
must be sure to get the old-fashioned book
/. usln foundation. Then the making
of 1t into attractive little accessories &C
complished by puffings and tucks inserted
with lace. is a labor of love-
At the exquisite reception given recently
by the new American ambassador to
France. Mr.. Mccormick, at his charming
home on the Quai de Billy. a young Amer
lean girl held all eyes by the quaintness of
her costume, The gown was of lowered
silk null. made with full plain skirt and
short wasted bodice adorned with muslin
tucker cut low in the neck. Around her
firm round throat she wore a pearl locket
suspended on a piece of haif-irch black
velvet ribbon. This ribbon. tied in small
bows. appeared bracelets around her
shapely. white wrists. She certainly pre-
scented a picture of we olden time that
was most alluring.
We are to be RECALLED this fall with a
rev couture style brought about by the
exigencies of the Watteau hat. This Pa
IISlin ciapedu mas never Dttu Il idNpllit
with American women, and the small,
fiat plateau effect tilted over the eyes at
angle of forty-fve degrees and raised TO
an eXaggerate ted height on bandeau in the
back will not appear in the new felts this
fall, but the hair arrangement VIII be much
in evidence. 1t Is done by first Marching
the locks at the back and sides Of the head
in waves. This accomplished. the hair is
drawn softly up to the crown of the head
and there twisted into 4 small knot, which
in turn in covered with a cluster of false
curls. The pompadour falls in soft undula-
tions almost to the eyebrows, but is low
and fiat directly over the forehead Soften
ing the outline tiny tendrils of hair be
comingly scattered under the p0mp1Gour.
In combs the ornate affairs studded with
briliants, precious metals and jewels are
not considered good form nowadays In
their place have been introduced only a
sufficient number of amber or tortoise shell
ornaments TO keep the hair in position as
desired.
We are all just now interested in tray
cling gowns and awfully smart utility
frock IS made of gray tuSsore silk. The
skirt is cut in nine cores and has at the
bottom deep hem headed with two bands
OF the tuSsOre cut on the bias. The double
breasted coat reaches about quarter of a
yard below the waist line and is tight in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06

Mrs Charles Chllds. shopping. wore a
linen gown. a deep mauve in color. The
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06

The gills frock illustrated is of peach
pink organdie The full skirt IS trimmed
with knife plaitings of plain pink organdie
and rows of Valeucennes insertion. The
bloused bodice is inset with rows of the
insertion. and the pulled vest is Of plain
pink adorned with lace.
The deep collar is tucked and trimmed
with plating and round lace motifs three
of which are placed on each side of the
front of the blouse. The short pun sleeves
finish with a plated ruff1e The sash is of
pink Louisine ribbon.