davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

neck cut away to describe a point in front
and a point lace stock and guimpe Were
inserted. The veil was very long and wide.
with a seni-point effect, and was full over
the couture. where it was caught with many
orange blossoms. 1t was of Brussels net
Will lace border. The elbow sleeves were
trimmed with several narrow chiffon ruff
fies. bound with white satin and four or
five chiffon rufes, each about five inches
wide. also bound with white satin and over
tapping each othcr-ali but the top one.
which had IA little standing ruche of the
chiffon topped with embarrassing the front
and sides Of the robe Miss Marian Fish.
the maid of honor. wore a trained robe of
white chiffon cloth trimmed with narrow,
bilowy quadruple ruchngs of white gauze,
one around the bottom, one AT The top OF
the foot HOunce and the third several
inches above this. The bodice and sleeves
were trimmed with netted and frnged white
silk passementerie. Her large white straw
hat was like those OF the bridesmaids, a
wide-brmned affair with modcra tely high
crown. the former raised a little at tie
right with pink roses under the brim. On
the outside quantities of pink roses and
foliage trimmed the hats, the roses being
of different shades
The bridesmaids, who were the Misses
Janet Fish. Anna RaynOr Bush. Louisne
Peters and Maria Moran, were in trained
robes Of white clifton, with insertions and
trailing fchus of lace. the gowns being
among the prettiest of the spring season
The bod:ces We're simple shirrcd ones. with
lace stocks and lace tichuS meeting in bre
tclle effect in the corner aud also in the
back. At the latter point they crossed,
and the ends went on down the back to
the hens Of the gowns. Two tiny knots
Of cloth OF silver caught the breteiles at
the waist line in the back. and in the front
there were three of the silver knots on
each side two above. TWO below and two
just at the waist line. The skirts were
sunray. plated between the four two-inch
lace insertions that outlined deep VS. on
the skirts and lace bordercd the bottom
of the skirts, where there were deep rutf!cd
effects. The elbow sleeves also had lace
rufties
Mrs Wells. the mother of the bride. wore
a beautiful figured white gauze over silk.
1t was striped with leaves outlined in deli
cate green. and every third leaf was fo.
lowed by Il pale pink flower. This gown
also had Il fichu effect. and long straight
lines despite its ti!mness. Her white straw
hat was trimmed with the most delicate Of
pink roses and Il touch OF violet chiffon
under the brim; the combination with her
white hair and youthful face was
fetching.
Mrs Peters mother of the bridegroom.
was in one of the new blues, with small
figures In another shade of blue. The
costume had a tight coat effect. and was
tonped by one of the French crea-
lions much ruftied up and much trimmed
with blue ostrich tips. the whole costume
being decidedly chic
MARIE WELDON
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28
Silks in Great Vogue,

Silk heads the list plain of surface and
plain of color for day wear of exceeding
richness for evening. No brocade how
ever ornate, is now out of date, and some
with lovely outstanding flowers in colored
velvet ale veritable works of art. With
these there the lovelest silk enbroid-
cries ever seen, generally blended with
broad banGs Of close set sequins. forming a
framework to many specially designed
fronts, or tightly strewed scrolls figure on
others. For less ornate morning wear
there are fine cloth and all the range Of
chiffon Cloths not diaphanous for this
does not meap the original stuff of our
first affections. but vevets, satin and chIf-
fon all "bechiffonized" if we may use
such "A word Soft rose pink and every tone
of violet pretty greens and other similar
hues carry all before them.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

coming fall and winter. Shadow plaids.
checks and also stripes are to be a feature
of the autumnal dress materials. These
made their first appearance in mohairs. and
since then they have been manufactured
abroad in melrose. in satin prunella ana
other goods.
Stripes are to be pushed this autumn. and
ought to find favor with the stout women at
least.
In colors for the coming autumn royal blue
is predicted as leader abroad. while in this
country the shade termed inauguration blue
is to be much-used color. Greens IN myr-
tie, reseda and other dark shades WIN pc
fashionable, while browns will fall behind
their run OF last year, while the dark shades
of plum, purple and kindred hues are neins
manufactured in quantities.
All these indica tons from manufacturers
show which way the wind will blow 1or
whatever fashion might wish to dictate sne
Is obliged to use the fabrics in the market
and these are always manufactured at least
six months ahead of their use. sometimes
year.
X \
Miss Natalie Wells, now Mrs. Harry 1.
Peters. wore one of the prettiest wells ana
the simplest gowns at her wedding. Inc
wedding robe, however, while simple in
cut. was rich in texture. and had an ex-
tremely long. square-cut train, severely
plain. 1t was a princess robe. with the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28
PARIS FASHIONS

Special Correspondence of The Star.
PARIS May IL. 1905
The long promised production of "Armide."
Gluck's masterpiece, has at last been made
at the Grand Opera House here. Although
so much had been anticipated for this new
work. the actual performance came as a
revelation. with its melodies, its breath, its
simplicity. and. above ALL it's wonderful
logic. One does not, as rule. apply the
word logic to an opera score. but the ex-
quisite music of "Armide" is full of charm
ing logic.
An old and enthusiastic musician, ca rried
away with the beauty of the composition,
turned to a young virtuoso sitting next to
him and earnestly remarked. Young COM
posers ought to look to Gluck for the way
in which he expresses his thoughts-al-
ways clear. always flowing, with no striv-
ing after effect. showing a thorough knowl-
edge of the singers capacity" The famous
NJ Gaillard mounted the opera in beaut-
full and effective manner.
The house was full of elegantly dressed
women. The prettiest gowns were of white
lace, white muslin. white liberty satin and
white crepe de chine with just touch Of
color added by way of a pink rose fastened
beneath the drapery at the bust line or a
little gold galloon introduced as shoulder
straps. this trimming continuing around
the decolletage.
Somebody the other day described the
Partisan of the hour arrayed in creamy
foaminess This chronicler must have been
Il man with little technical knowledge of
his subject, for the sole aim in modistic
Paris is to create garments that cling and
swirl about the figure Reutlinger, the
great photogra pher here who may without
prejudice be called the greatest artist of
his day and practically the only one who
can portray fashionable clothing as it is
fashonably worn, reveals clearly this trend.
Indeed, have heard from sitters who have
visited him recently that he frankly asks
his posers to remove their petticoats. after
which his inspired drapery of the gown is
the matter of a moment AS a victim apty
describes the process, He takes his subject
running either way from him or to him, y
which at once accounts for the life eX-
pressed in his studies.
How to Pose.
How to pose for picture is, l know an
interesting subject of discourse to the
feminine world, but / quite sure it will
be even more interesting in the smart new
suspender gowns Parisians are wearing.
Several of these gowns made their appear
ance last summer, but were not received
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

with acclaim on account of their undis-
guisedly mannish style In the new sus-
pender frOck the men will not recognize
their ''gailuses." and women who would not
have accepted this mode last year are Civ
ing it their heartiest approval this sum-
mer The great advantage of the suspen-
der frock is that even when made of the
darkest shade of silk 1t is light and cool
in appearance. Besides, with goodly
supply of dainty lingerie shirt waists. the
freshness of the costume is assured SO
attractive have these strap dresses become
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

to wrist with buttons matching those on
the skirt and bodice, A turnover collar Of
hardinger embroidery and a belt of white
kid complete the smart little costume
From an economical well as artistic
standpoint white is the best investment for
summer, no matter what the material or
for what style of gown. White always
looks cool and comfortable. and added To
this is the fact that ii will Withstand the
toughest treatment bestowed by the angel
who presdes over the washtubs. The white
frOck may be worn any number Of times
with a change of girdle and little touches
Of color without the inquisitve world
membering the fact OF its persistent re
appearance. But whatever the white dress
may be. never allow it 10 walk abroad IN
the trappings OF coarse lace or embroidery.
If good imitation laces and fine embroider-
les are beyond the dress allowance content
yourself with hand run tucks, which are
chic and truly beloved of the fastidious
Partisan. Should the tucks be hemstitched
by hand the acme of elegance is reached
Scalloped Ruffles.
Another exclusive trimming is hand
worked scalloping applied to ruties and to
the fronts of surpiced waists Should
hand work on the entire frock be con
sidered too laborious elaborate little
chemisettes and pun undersleeves of real
Valenciennes lace set together with hand
stitchery will give up-to-date cachet
Bands of embroidery a single Wide
strip placed above n deep hem on a lawn
or organize skirt are extremely effective
edged with tiny rufiies of lace top and
bottom and introduced on the waist In like
manner.
Elowered organizes and mousselines are
most alluring al this time of the year, but
one has to have more gowns OF this sort
than when white alone is worn \ stun
ming organdie with pale yellow ground
Powered with shaded yellow roses and
foliage has its jupe made with alternating
groups of three deep tucks and three rows
of tiny ruffies of organdie cut on the bias.
This trimming extends almost TO the waist.
The full baby bodice is vertically tucked,
the neck cut in Dutch fashion and trimmed
with three of the bias ruffles. yoke OF
Val insertion and strips of plain yellow
lawn make the becoming neck finish. The
eirdle is of three shades of yellow and three
of light green silk, toning in tremendously.
A slip of dull finished banana yellow SILK
gives the CONNECTION a luscious glow.
Shaded Girdles.
This mingling of colors in the girdle is
fad of the summer. Delicious pastel shad-
ings. American Beauty red. duh pinks and
banana yellows are chosen most frequently
for the purposes. and 1t is smart to have
the hat carry out in some way this touch
of gown coloring.
There is u stage whisper in the modistic
play of the summer that the bellies OF the
season are to wear half hose with the new
pumps for the street. but ! may definitely
state that the white hosiery dear to the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

of the way. The entire skirt was sheath
fitting The tight coat had moderately full
sleeves to below the elbows and rather deep
cuffs of the cloth. trimmed with two-inch
bands Of fine plaitngs of the cloth. with
fine cord or braid of soutache width exactly
matching the hue of the cloth. quarter
of an inch from the edge of the plaitings.
The coat closed at one side of the front
under bretelle extension of the cloth. and
in the center were medallion effects in cloth
and cord The coat extended some six
inches below the waist line, with the side
seams slashed up to the waist line. and
similar opening in the center front. each OF
the three openings showing V-shaped sec
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

heart of our grandmothers has come into
its again. II will be worn with white,
low shoes and slippers
This VIII be summer of great glove
Importance because of the short sleeves.
The woman who sets the seal of fashion
will let glove history repeat itself be
content to have as innovation a coored
strap of kid about the wrist of her NOUS
quetaire glove. But CANT tops inset with
lace and other bizarre ideas she leaves for
the women who welcome any novelty.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28
These princess gowns

bottom of the skirt. These princess gowns
clear the ground.
Fine lawns are being used for frocks,
hats and parasols. all being trimmed with
lace, and the parasols being lined with
some soft silk.
In ribbons narrow velvets in both black
and colors are much used, while for the
shirred and bow-knot designs narrow. lus-
trcus silk ribbons we'll as the soft lib
critics are used. Ombre and Dresden. as
well as chine and other varieties. are all
smart.
Mrs. Harry Lehr. who has just returned
from a trip abroad and the purchase OF
many frocks in Paris, 1unched the other day
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28
Special Correspondence of The star

NEW YORK, May %. 1905.
The princess skirt with bolero or Elton
coat is among the smartcst of the short
costumes. and in no other is perfection OF
fit so essential In this particular skirt the
east fault is exaggerated. and none but
drst-class tailors can turn out such cos
tunes and have them a success. This
tlone will prevent the princess skirt from
becoming common.
In Vienna there has originated the lat
rst thing in skirts. u draped effect on the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

A pretty suggestion for a linen frock
has a panel front heavily stitched and
strapped in scallops just below the waist
line and held in place with pearl buttons.
The same effect is carried out the front
of the blouse, and the unique sleeves are
of the bishop variety fastened from elbow
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

| that they now initiated in the smartest
afternoon and high evening gowns. These
frocks are made up in all the new silks.
including taffeta. plain shot and Powered
chiffon faile chiffon MORE. messaline in all
its wide range of coloring and weight:
surah, handspun silks and pongees as well
as In wolfe. mohair and linen.
In Pastel Blue.
In the afternoon class of suspender
gowns pastel blue chiffon taffeta model
made for fair American stands out promi-
nently. The skirt is sweep length and
made with deep tuck at the bottom above
a hem of the same depth. In the front. on
the sides and in the back of the skirt is
laid in triple box plaits intersected with
gathered panels hung from deep yoke A
braid of pastel blue on which Is Greek
key pattern of silver conceals the Joining
of gathers to yoke. The waist suggest
ing a dainty little harness. is evolved from
the silk and fits perfectly over the bust
Straps of silver and blue braid over the
shoulders hold in place a similar little
bodice of silk across the back. The little
harness bodice is trimmed about with braid
and ruff1e OF Valenciennes lace. The
sleeves are small. high puffs ending In a
series of lace ruffles above the elbow. A
smart ceinture of silk is fastened in front
with a large square dull silver buckle. The
blouse of Irish lace is plain at the top and
fulls slightly over the ceinture back and
front.
A palmer example of the suspender gown
is made of a pretty new blurred green and
blue checked silk. The skirt, which is
rather difficult to describe. is formed of
groups of side plaits each side of the
front panel, which is plain to the end of the
corset From this point are panels of plaits
held to the other group of plaits with two
silk straps This effect is repeated all
around the skirt The little bodice, modcr-
ately full and "blousy," Is cut very low in
CHI hack md front Two SrISDenIArS
of bias silk hold up this apology for a
hole embroidery.
Has Possibilities.
possibilities of the suspender gown. All
notifications make for youthful effects and
| are. therefore not TO be worn when the age
| limit has been reached.
| Colored linen and pique frocks made with
| straps half covering the delicate lawn or
! lace waist are among the seasons novel
| ties for morning wear The suspenders on
rose blue mauye and yellow linen dresses
are fascinating when covered with a braid
ed design done in white, the belt carrying
out the same scheme. Linen gowns made
perfectly plain. with stitched strapping, are
wonderfully smart and cool when the shirt
| waist is cut low to admit of little chemis-
| cite of lace or embroidery, and the sleeves
are fashioned with undercuffs of the same
| lace or embroidery These undersleeves are
| very attractive but the economical and
practical women will object to them on
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

are built i'm butterfly shape. The newest
models are lined with white an under but
terhy bow having the white side out while
the top bow has the dark side uppermost.
Two very stiff bows, an inch and \ half
long. are also employed to cover up the
fastening of white linen collars.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28
Chiffon Evening Dresses.

Chiffon dresses for evening continue pre-
eminently attractive when trimmed with
ribbons tucks and floral garlands. but the
more economical will consider favorabiy
evening dresses made of pompadour taffe;as
with lace berthas and high belts of some
Main color. -
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

Mrs George Gould was in town the other
day and lunched at a smart 9TH avenue
restaurant in brilliant rose pink cloth
gown. a round-length skirt. and tight
fitting, skirted coat. topped by rather
small toque. The skirt of the costume was
laid in groups of lengtkwise side plaits.
each plat quite wide. ANA all OF them
pressed in. Forming a pair of stairs a.
each side. of TIE skirt from tie side fronts
up. several plaits to the back were cross
wise bar effects. outlined with fine red cord
below the knees and pressed III the rest
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28
A Buttoned Panel.

lis the score of the laundry bill and will sub
us stitute linen.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28


Mrs Francis Stevens on the same d'S
and at the same place wore an oda snort
costume with a white lingerie blouse The
skirt was instep length and of fine black
material. laid in plaits from belt to hem
Around the top the plaits were pressed and
stitched in to lie fiat to the figure, while De
low they Haired The cloth cop consisted oil
a sleeveless. collarless section of the cloth.
or rather two sections joined on the shout
dcrs and with wide armholes Around the
armholes and across the top. which was
slightly heart-shaped in both the back and
the front were bands of embroidery, or
ra Their embroidery on the material in de
sign between wheels and roses in shape.
The two scctCns-front and back-were
just alike. and the bands of the embroidery
outlining the armholes continued over the
shoulders and held this bodice portion IN
place. The white under blouse was elab-
crate and had elbow sleeves with shirred
sections \ small turban with ecru crown
and black velvet wound around the box
brim showed one of the new style clusters
| of feathers-betwccn the cogue and tine
| aigrette in shape and size-in black and
white the white being over the black AMI
the bunch being put on lensthwise from
front TO back.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

No one need fear 10 invest in plaided or
checked costume, even though II be desired
II continue its use next autumn. for manu-
facturers are now weaving and getting
ready TO weave plaids OF al sorts Tor the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

In handbags the odd and bizarre effects
are sought for, and a bag unlike any other
is a desidcratum. Calf is being much used
for smart bags. but it would never be recog-
nized as such owing TO its various treatment
and nom de piumes, such. for instance as
iishscale. oakleaf Fiametta also granite
tiger stripes and graduated calf.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

Plaids are not only on the top wave now
but promise to continue to be for service
able gowns of all sorts In the Aghtest
weight as we'll as next autumn.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

landings in fine cloth, linen, silk. velvet
with embroidered designs IN silk, and Pari-
sian landings are all much To the fore. es-
Dccially the one-sided ones for vesting
pieces, ana handsome buttons come TO
match tie latter.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-28

at a restaurant in a new frock of a deep
prune or purpliSh material. with girdle,
vest, collar and cuff effects in pale laven-
der the whole topped by small hat
matching the color OF the gown, and
trimmed with large. dahlialike rosettes of
the lighter shade. This small hat was set
on top of her head. slanted down toward
the eyes and was turned up at the back
and left side very sharply Al the r:ght
side some purplish wings slanted from the
front up. and on the upturned left side were
two large rosettes. one near the back. the
other in the center of the side Drim Inc
skirt OF the costume touched the floor all
around The material looked in the sub
dued light of the restaurant like a silky
wolfe There hip yoke effect. whether
a plain yoke. to which the skirt was joined.
or an effect produced by pTessed-in plaits.
was not easy to discover. This yoke was
perhaps six inches deep, and from 1t the
skirt fell in the style of plating formerly
termed killing. and was finished around the
bottom with band OF silk braid perhaps
an inch and quarter wide. AT the sldes
near the back Were noticed several Htt!e
lengthwise strappings Of the material
caught with little self-colored buttons.
These picket pointed strappings were per-
haps three inches long. and were set on
lengthwise, half on the yoke ana nan on
the skirt as though the two were joined
by them Down over this prune-coI0red hip
yoke extended plain. pointed tight gird!e
OF light lavender cloth buttoned III the
center. and forming a deep point in ihe
front The Elton jacket was snort enough
TO show the lavender girdle, and swung out
loose but plain from the ngure, us ohiy
ornarnentation being a band OF pFaiu SIM
liar to that on the skirt. around al! the
edges A border OF lavender cioth was
inserted as IA finish TO the neck and also
! down the fronts. These bands were each
nerbaus an inch and Il half wide. and DARK
buttons closed it down the center front
The sleeves were quite simple. full, but
not puffy at the tops, and w!dened to the
I elbows They were finished above 'he
wrists by braid and cloth TO match inc
bpuy