The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1905-03-30

| Handsome Silk GOwns-1IOdel White
Gowns shown This Week.
Everything this spring is French. We
have been accustomed to receive fash
ion edicts from Paris, but it does not
| follow that French traditions are in
variably observed in French modes.
! The picture hat, for example, has
always been the hat of GainsbOrOugh
/ and Reynolds. This year. however, the
picture hat is copied from French por-
trait painters. Vatican notably. The
result to the eye is not altogether
pleasing. There is plenty of dash to
the new hats, but little of real or
j enduring beauty. Unfortunately, the
/ tilted last requires elaborate hairdress-
! ing. Some Of the coiffures seen in the
beauty shops and at the theatre are
monstrosites of style. The latest is a
pair of twin pompadours on either side
| of the head, with huge bun in the
back, the whole held in place by nu-
merous combs and pins. When the hat
is adjusted the various pompadours
are pulled not to fill vacant spaces, so
to speak. Wherever the tilt of the
/ hat leaves a chasm, the hair is puffed
out in manner to preserve symmetry.
| The effect is better when the hat is on
than when it is off.
The worst of the matter is that near
4 ly all the new coiffures involve waving
the hair with hot iron, which every one
knows is destructive. Even children's
i hair is artifcially waved, it is said. 1t
is the fancy of the movement to ar
range a little girls hair in very low,
dropping pompadour over the right
brow, with a second pompadour on top
| of the head, ribbon bow separating
the two. The rest of the hair is allowed
| to fall on the shoulder The low POM
! padour falling forward over the brow
| is almost characteristic. The forehead
seems to be going out of fashion, as it
did some time ago in England. The
hair on the forehead is much waved
and rather stiffiy arranged. All kinds
of combs, pins, and hair ornaments are
! in vogue, and for evening, wreath,
| flowers, and aigrettes are worn.
/ 1t is hard to tell how wells are to be
/ adjusted over so much hair and such
| impossible hats, but we are informed
that wells to mach the general color
scheme are among the essentials of
good dressing. From indications loose
veil will be less demanded than the
| tightly drawn, trim affair. Very hand
4 some are the net wells with lace
| borders. These are plain or dotted
! White with black chenille dots, black
\ and white lace. and black and white
mingled in the mesh are seen. They
are too striking not to become common
after while. 1t is predicted that be-
4 fore summer only short wells, reaching
to the tip of the nose, will be Worn by
the fastidious, leaving the novelties to
/ the less careful dressers. E- =
/ 1t is not too early to admire the new
silk gowns. or even begin to have them
made. The new materials are at hand,
and plenty Of model have been dis
played. al group of light-hued deni-
1 toilettes were very much admired this
/ week One of these was of white
mousseline de sole made over chameleon
in pink and yellow tones, with a
foundation of white taffeta. The
mousseline of the over dress had small
1 embroidered, alternately black and
i white and was inset with landings of
white French lace. The skirt which
departed from the usual fashion of
shirring or plating was tight-fitting
over the hips. Around the foot were
1 three rows of lace banding edged on
/ either side with lace ruches. Above,
narrower banding was arranged in a
4 pattern. There was a yoke and stock
of lace, and the waist was made of
alternate small puffs and narrow in
4 sertion. The puffs were arranged
diagonally, and the general effect ofth
waist was a surplice. The sleeves were
puffs and insertion to the elbow, where
a lace ruche and a garter and bow of
chameleon ribbon finished them. The
wide girdle, pointed at both ends was
also of the chameleon ribbon, with tiny
| rosette bows down the front. This
gown may be called highly Characters
1 tic. 1t combined most of the features
1 of the coming modes, and aside from
the lack of fitness in the skirt-and
a model gown.
/ A lovely gown of pale yellow louisine,
4 one of the new tones, called banana,
had many characteristics, the lavish use
of puffs being noted especially. This
skirt was quite wide, the soft silk al
4 lowing a trim effect about the waist,
4 There were two groups of trimming on
| the skirt, and in each of them We're
| three graduated tucks and a row of
4 lace insertion on either side of a small
| puff. A wide lace ruhe finished the
skirt. The waist had a lace yoke, and
i was an indescribable elaboration of
puffs and lace. The sleeves were ex-
tremely good. They were built primari-
| ly of two lace founces, but under the
| fiounces was a. dainty little peasant
sleeve of fine net gathered into a band
of the yellow silk at the elbow. The
usual wide girdle was present.
Much less ornate was gown of very
| fine chiffon wolfe, one of the most
beautiful fabrics ever made. The color
was silver gray, relieved by the merest
touch of gold and palesblue. The skirt
had deep circular fiounce of gray
satin exactly matching the wolfe in
tone, and above this was a decoration
Of the satin in fine cords put on in
arabesques. 1t was simple and very
! distinguished on that account. The
waist was sort of a surplce outlined
| with a narrow fancv braid i'm which