The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1905-04-14
"A COSTUME ON EMBROIDERED TWlLE

separate medallions, put on either in
applique or worked directly on the
dress material.
The die seems to be cast in favor or
the latter style of treatment, if one is
to judge from gowns ordered this early
In the spring. and truly some lovely
creations have resulted from the best
efforts of Partisan dressmakers- The
newest idea in the use of medallions is.
no matter what their shape, whether
they are round, oval, diamond or
square. to surround them with dainty
embroidery and add tiny frill OF lace.
sometimes so narrow as 20 be almost
Invisible, TO the outer edge.
On the stage gown reproduced in the
sketch medallions of increasing size
play a conspicuous part. Like the ma
jority of afternoon and evening cos
TUNES, this one displays a panel in the
front. 1t is really an entire petticoat
with a straight overdress. Between
the gradually separating sides of the
overdress is seen a fluffy petticoat,
made of rose colored tulle, falling very
full at the bottom, where il forms a
train There is a ruching about the
foot, and down the center of the petit
coat. as we'll as round the bottom. is
arranged row of exquisite lace me-
dallions. The top one is quite small.
and the last toward the bottom is sew
eral times its size.
The material underneath Is carefully
cut away, and then in order to soften
the break between the rose tulle and
the white lace applique the edge of
each medallion is finished with an al
most infnitesimal ruching of tulle and
a fairy like ruffiing of lace. These
medallions of varying size extend
round the foot to the end of the train.
The overdress is fashioned of exquis-
itely embroidered tulle, through which
the beautiful rose color is softened to a
delicate flush. The edges of the over
dress are scalloped to match the me-
dalliOns. and these are finished with
the same trimming used to enhance
the applications.
A bolero carries out the double idea
on the bodice. The material here Is
embroidered tulle. scalloped and ruched,
and opening over a vest of rose colored
tulle. The scalloped design finds fur
Their use in the fiat collar which extends
over the shoulders. This is made of a
double row of medallionS or ScallopS,
set overlapping each other. Instead OF
a high stock there is a simple little
quilting of lace at the neck. The
sleeves are formed of a puff of the
embroidered tulle and a scalloped elbow
fiounce. There is a Vatican fullness
sweeping from the shoulders 10 the
edge of the train.
If fine linen or batiste were used in
following the above design a stunning
costume could be made with the use
of English embroidery for applied me-
dallions. the scalloped bolero and over
dress. The deep collar could be made
of fine lace formed into similar seal
lops-
There are some women who would
not be without black dress, or at least
one in which this somber color pre-
dominates, for any consideration. Reg
ularly each season they order a gown
to fill this want, and it doesn't take
long for a dressmaker to run the entire
gamut of materials and dress ideas in
terpreted in a tone which is never
thoroughly satisfactory from an artists
point of view. For these women the
following costume is offered with the
belief that 1t possesses considerable
novelty and attractiveness.
Black tulle, delicately jetted, forms
the main part of the evening robe. The
upper half of the skirt is slightly full
over soft silk lining, and on the tulle
are wrought radiating bands of Jet.
Above the knees. and put Oh In an up
ward sloping line, is a broad strip of
white and black lace applique outlined
with jet. From this the skirt falls in a
bouffant f1ounce of plain tulle, with jet
ornaments put on at intervals and cluS-
tiers of vertical strips of jet forming
diamonds. Round the bottom is anoth-
er band of lace and jet trimming. The
bodice is decollete, with the same trim
ming outlining the shallow point, and a
belt is formed of several strips of jet.
caught together with rhinestone
buckles. set in two rows in the back
The sleeves are mere straps of black
velvet and jet.