davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Omaha daily bee., 1905-11-12
Furs for All Kinds of Coats, Gowns and Hats

-HBRB is touch Of fur on all
cloth costumes that are being
brought in now and there Is no
I1ISt9l investment that Is so well re-
- warded as that Of a little good
fur chosen trimming. Whether
IL is in the small bit which is
used as an accessory or the expensive set.
there is distinct idea OF choosing them
in harmonizing colors. Large sets OF furs
are chosen especially with reference TO the
empire coats and hats. A favorite COM
binstlon is blue fox with purple. and with
different shades of purple also are worn
chinchilla, silver fox and moleskin. with
brown cloth good effects are gained from
chinchilla, ermine and white fox Black
lynx, that charming ana lately popular
fur. Is seen in some Of the best sartorial
efforts combined with cream white cloth.
Another combination. which Is far more
beautiful than IL sounds was that of the
same cream cloth with gray krimmer. 10
was used as the border on a long cream
coat. together with an applique of bold
white guIpure, which planted itself half on
the krimmer and half on the cloth. break
ing in this way the straight line down the
front, which would have otherwise been
unavoidable.
Krimmer is a good substitute for chin
Ciillld III dChiCNluB lnb lhSnlOndDle gray
and brown combination, and II also is
| good on navy, cerise, and some shades Of
mauve. One OF the prettiest trimmings OF
| gray fur possible was seen the other day
| on a broadcloth coat suit of dull blue. The
coat was a blouse with long skirts sewed
| In with the effect of a tunic. There we're
| chinchilla cuffs and collar in the shape OF
a small stole. the ends being short enough
| to give II the shape of cravat There
| was an extremely narrow vest which ran
| up and ended in a high band collar which
was formed Of white guipure laid over
heavy cream satin. This vest hooked up
through the middle and was piped with
blue satin matching the broadcloth on the
edge and, just back Of the piping. was set
a close little row OF tiny buttons covered
with the blue satin. A soft knotted blue
silk tie came down from under the fur
collar, hanging loosely over the little white
vest in front. The bias ends of this also
were edged with the little buttons set on
in = close row, and below the narrow blue
sleeves was projecting cuff OF the white
lace trimmed with the chinchilla-
The natural sequel to the short sleeved
winter coat is the long gauntlet cum of fur
which some genius has designed TO supply
the deficiency. There also is a short, tight
undersleeve which is put into some of the
latest coats, which may be removed when
the coat is required to look its smartest
and best. The majority of fur coats. how
ever, are sleeved to the wrist, the little
full boleros only being provided with vo-
luminous wing sleeves.
While these more fanciful garments are
prohibitive in sables, mink and ermine, and
other furs of which the prices reach sky.
ward, there are limitations which are for
cling themselves upon the consideration o.
even the fastidious. There is an unknown
fur that is dyed sable color, and there il
French ermine which is seen as lining
for stoles and the ends of NUNS. This il
Omaha daily bee., 1905-11-12

bun. apricot and champagne, stand next
to white in favor.
Vegetable fiber braid is used in the
adorning and is of the same. shade as
the cloth. II is an inch in width and put
on very fiat.
bit of beautiful sable serves for a
collar, which is finished off at each end
with a rosette of black velvet ribbon. In
the center of each rosette is a twinkling
rhinestone ornament. BY way OF inside
trimming the velvet ribbon is continued
down the fronts in loops.
A charming white broadcloth evening
coat with the sleeves cut in one with the
shoulders, is embroidered by hand in the
delicate Persian colors. A cord serves to
tie it together. There is a seam down the
center back. as there is in most of these
coats. Lace frills finish the quantity
oriental sleeves
The pattern of the embroidery looks
more Hungarian than Persian, or even
Russian. If done in the brilliant coloIs
affected by the needlewomen of those
countries it would serve splendidly on a
deep red coat. Deep red. by the way, is
greatly liked, and brown and deep blue
are also shown. The red is especially
for going in and out on trains, or for those
who take the trolley, though by no means
left solely to them.
Omaha daily bee., 1905-11-12
Dazzling SpIendors of the Evening Coat

Trimmings are an important detail. and
most important of all are the trimmings
down the inside of the fronts of the coat.
Even though a coat show no trimming
on the inside at the fronts. 1t may be
a mere edge. 1t is more likely to be a
rich scheme composed of laces, puffs,
braids, appliques, gallons, ribbons or, in
deed, anything that is pretty and suited
to the style OF the garment and the
wearer.
A magnificent opera cape is light blue
velvet, a splendidly vivid shade. with
turquoise tendencies which tempts one
TO christen 1t Algerian sky.
1t is almost plain, the only decoration
being in the shape of gold and silver
embroidery, with dingle-dangles to corre-
spond. The lining of satiny peau de cygne
is in cream color, with delicate metal en-
broidery down the fronts.
Done IN black velvet. embroidered in
jet and silver. this garment would be
stunning, especially for an older woman.
In black cloth It will be seen. too.
Broadcloth in one of the faintest pastel
rose shades is here shown in an exceed
ingly handsome new evening cape.
This shade, as we'll as the correspond
ing hue in blue, is one of the best liked
for broadcloth evening coats. These
colors, together with gray, reseda, pale
Omaha daily bee., 1905-11-12

ally. Lay large pin or needle across the
button so that the stitches go over It; when
sufficient are placed withdraw the pin and
coil the thread around between button and
goods several times, then fasten Sc
curely.
Remember that the free end OF thread
on a spool should be threaded into the
needle to prevent tangling, and that in
sewing bias and straight pieces together,
the straight should be kept on top. Also
that black cotton thread almost invariably
turns brown in the wash, so that it is
best to use silk or black sateen shirts or
other black wash garments.
All filmy materials such as chiffon, veil
ing, etc, have a tendency TO pucker when
stitched on a machine. This may be over
come by placing a plain piece OF paper
underneath the material, stitching through
both, and tearing the paper away when
the work is finished. This is also a good
plan to follow when stitching insertion
and beading into position.
Omaha daily bee., 1905-11-12
Timely Hints for the Home Dressmaker

and scraps This rug may be rolled up
and taken outdoors whenever it is neces-
sary to dust it. Here the scraps may be
gathered up to burn and the rug freed
from dust and lint. The machine itself
should be wiped with a damp cloth to re-
move all dust.
When buttonholes are to be worked in
children's clothes, mems shirts or any
everyday garment. 1t is we'll TO machine
stitch around the edge of the space where
the buttonholeing will come before working
the holes. This will make them much
more durable, and will not be noticed when
the buttonholeing is finished. This is espe-
cially true of the ends of the holes, where
the tendency is always to split after a
little wear.
When sewing on buttons always leave
the knot in the thread on the right side
just under the button. II will not be
nearly so likely TO rub of in laundering,
or to come united, thus permitting the
threads to work out of the button gradu-
Omaha daily bee., 1905-11-12

city is a cape so voluminous that even
when gathered up over each arm it flows
in unbroken folds at the back and at the
fronts. Gathered up thus, shawl fashion,
in the graceful style which Josephine
knew so we'll and which Napoleon disliked
so much (you remember his talent for
snatching them from her shoulders and
putting them in the f1re), these capes have
something of a Roman magnificence
about them that leads one to expect the
wearer to step into the full glare OF the
calcium and declaim.
As for materials, broadcloth tells nearly
the whole story. There are Just enough
exceptions to prove the rule.
In Innings. the soft, satiny silks are
Tivaled by brocades Of the richest most
pliable satin. These are in two-tone eff
fects. If. for instance, the coat is of
delicate gray, the lining will be a play
upon pastel gray and oyster white. A
pale bun broadcloth shows a lining in a
pale buff and cream white, and so 1t goes,
the manufacturers seemingly having pro-
vided suitable color schemes for the lin
ing of all the cloaks.
Omaha daily bee., 1905-11-12

one of the many species Of rabbit, but it Is
soft and thick of texture and promises to
be popular in helping out the list of fash
ionable white furs.
Stone marten, when of the best quality
and having had the best treatment, is
easily mistaken for Russian sable. 1t is a
far more becoming fur when selected in
the darkest skins to the now idolized mink
Mink, by the way. even in the lighter
shades, is charming in combination with
Omaha daily bee., 1905-11-12

a certain brickish shade of terra Gotta. A
broadcloth tailor coat suit in this color
was finished with vest and cuffs of white
guipure over white cloth, the outline Of
the lace being heavily traced with gold
threads. A soft crepe de chine tie of a
little lighter and softer color which shaded
more to the rose, while at the same time
harmonizing with the terra Gotta, made a
particularly good effect, surmounted by a
big stole of the dark mink.
Omaha daily bee., 1905-11-12

it is at all practicable a room
L~I should be set aside for sewing
purposes, in which everything
ISS{E@7I pertaining to the work may be
49, arranged. This plan cannot be
followed by every housekeeper, however,
so I'm order TO confine the scraps and ma
teriSls in one portion of the room devoted
to the sewing large screen will be found
very useful. The screen may be placed in
such a manner that chance visitors will
not have opportunity to witness the un-
avodable lack of neatness in that particu-
lar portion of the house: nor will the work
all have to be gathered up and stored
away before night. wearisome task
when mind and body are both ex-
hausted.
Sweeping the floor when delicate ma
terials are open TO the dust must be avoided
II possible. A good plan is to spread a
large rug of mating, oilcloth or common
denim under the machine and over such
floor space as will be Uttered with threads
Omaha daily bee., 1905-11-12

NUMBER of new points dis
tinguish the evening coats de-
signed for the season of 1s05-O6.
In shapes the Empire effects
prevail. though the greater nov
Omaha daily bee., 1905-11-12
FU(DR2SS

Correct styles of garments
in rare distinctiveness and
individuality.
Modelled after the APP
proved European designs
by experienced workmen
under my personal super
vision. / guarantee every
garment as represented and
to be thoroughly reliable as
to style and quality.
There is hardly any
woman who has not ex-
perienced the unsatisfac-
toriness of buying furs hap
+. hazard. The possibilities of
mistakes in regard to quail
! ity are infinitely greater
than in selecting any other
garment, and it is against
such dangers that my ex-
perience of twelve years as
a practical furrier in Omaha
and other large cities pro-
vides you an efficient safe
guard.
/ am at present showing
a large selection of Alaska
Seals, Persian Lamb and
Otter and a very beautiful
line of Minks.
I invite an inspection of
my goods.
HENRY {.
Thomson
Manufacture Of Fine FuVs
1917 Farnam Street
Telephone eAAe
New-York tribune., 1905-02-09
WANT ACTION ON HIGH PRESSURE
Merchants Association Jogs Mayor-0bject
to Present Limitation Of District.

Mayor Mcclellan. at the urging OF the Merchants
Association. has taken up again the establishment
OF an auxiliary high pressure water system for
the lower part OF the city. Frank r. Chambers.
chairman OF the association committee yesterday
sent the Mayor letter outlining its views. The
Retail Dry Goods Association is cooperating with
the Merchants Association. The combined organ
izations employed Foster Crowei engineer, to
work out their ideas. The report OF Mr.. Crowell
is commented by the Merchants Association
committee follows:
AS originally outlined by the Water Department
for Manhattan the plan for high pressure sup
ply contemplated a system which would cover the
territory bounded on the north by 23d-st.. the
from 23d-st TO 14th-st. thence through 14th-st 10
fth-aVe down 4th-ave. and the Bowery TO Cham
bers-st., extending westerly the North River.
The plan at present under preparation by the act
templates system 10 cover a much limited
territory, namely. between SpTing-st. the Bowery,
Chambers-st. and Hudson-st.
There is no apparent reason why the district
should be circumscribed as is contemplated in the
plans now being prepared, there being no expert
mental features IN either case. and greater diff
urges the extension of the plans TO the district
originally suggested because there business
interests included In that area not In the lesser
10 refer. for instance, TO the large number great
department stores which lie contiguous to and be-
low 2Sd-st. and 20 the development OF the section
aveE., a wholesale centre.
The plans and development OF the BrookIyn hirh
corresponding work in Manhattan, appear to have
been prosecuted with such diligence that the plans
for Brooklyn are much further advanced than
those for Manhattan. This too, in spite of the
larger than the district covered In the plans under
contemplation in the Borough OF Manhattan.
New-York tribune., 1905-02-09
SCHOOL COAL STOLEN.
Nearly Quarter of Supply of First
Ward, Queens, Taken on Wau.

Pending an investigation into the delivery Of
School supplies TO the schools in Queens Borough
especially coal, nine inspectors of the department
OF supplies in that borough have been suspended
by Superintendent Patrick Jones. It is said the
case will shortly be laid before the grand jury and
that afhdavits have been obtained which show that
almost quarter OF the supply Of coal sent 10
the schools in the First Ward has failed to reach
Tie bins in the houses. All of the nine inspectors
ere not implicated as yet, but all who might be
concerned were laid of, that the suspension does
not carry guilt with IT.
II is alleged that the investigation started with
NO. a. IN the Steinway section. Measurements
showed the capacity Of the bins something
like one hundred tons less than what was sup
posed TO be in them. The selling firm, II is said
ailegso Il had delivered az the pier the full amount
New-York tribune., 1905-02-09
H4VOY GETS EXCITED.
Shouts at Lindsey at Iighe Trial
Witnesses Still Recdlcitrant.

The session yesterday Of the trial of Police Cap
tain Tfghe for neglect of duty while in command Of
the Sfercer-st. station similar TO that Of the
day before. Deputy Commissioner McAvoy, as trial
commissioner. criticised Deputy Commissioner
Idndsley, acting prosecutor. The witnesses re-
fused TO most OF the questions put to them,
although the letter of Assistant District Attorney
Rand. promising immunity TO witnesses. was read
sgain- Mr.. Llndsley advised the witnesses that
they had constitutional right to refuse to an
srer, sni on refusal might be adjudged guilty Of
contempt.
Thomas Callahan, one OF the recalcitrant wit
nesses Of the hearing of Tuesday, first called.
Ee refused TO answer any questions whatever. He
was warned he was making himself liable to con-
tempt proceedings. He replied Il won't answer
the questions, and won't degrade myself for you
or any one else
Alexander Faber. OF No l.59l Lexngton-ave.,
called. he described alleged poolroOm and
ecribed the method of play. and admitted that he
had been arrested in a raid. and pleaded guilty 10
a charge of petit larceny, and had been a stool
pigeon
When Mr.. Lindsey objected to the way Mr..
Grant, for the defence, was crOss-examining Henry
Freedman, who had played the races in a 4th-ave.
poolroom, he did not ike a ruling by Mr.. McAvoy
The latter became excited. Pounding his desk. he
shouted: Il have ruled, and want you TO under
stand, Mr.. Lindsey you can't be both Judge and
Prosecutor
New-York tribune., 1905-02-09
TOO MANY DETAILED.
Frperts on Police Agree at Commit
tee of Nine Hearings.

form opinions on the police situation for Itself
yet on OF the points discussed there has been
s practical agreement by the men who expressed
their views 20 the committee. There are too many
policemen performing special duties. who should
be doing regulation police duty. according TO the
judgment OF the experts, given by Austen G.
Fox chairman of the committee, yesterday.
On other points he said. there had been a de-
cided disagreement.
Mr. Fox announced officially that no dissension
existed in the committee. Elihu Root was absent
from the meeting again. It said that he was
expected TO attend to-day's hearing. John @. NIL
burn also was not there. Ex-Commissioner Part
ridge and, Ghererdi Davis. deputy under General
Greene, told the committee what they thought
would reform the police force. Alfred r. Conkltng
told the committee about the Lexow bill, defeated
sn 1895 from which, The Tribune has pointed out
President Roosevelt expected great good TO come
District Attorney Jerome Is expected TO make some
forcible remarks to-day, when Captain Piper will
81 Attend
New-York tribune., 1905-02-09
WANT TWO PUBLIC PIERS.
Shipping Interests Up IN Arms
AGAINST Proposed Plans.

Local shipping interests and the Maritime Asso-
cfation are up in arms against the purpose OF the
Dock Department and the city authorities to lease
ali the proposed new piers along the lower part of
the East River to private interests. without any
provision for the needs Of the general public. Both
association and the local shipping interests de-
mand that piers be reserved for the use of the
public interested IN commerce.
Among the plans for the improvement of the
ctys water front along the East River now under
way are the condemnation of all the piers the
East River from Pier p to Pier and the construc
ton Of piers thereon. The Maritime Association
says that all these piers have been applied for
by individuals and corporate interests Yesterday
the Maritime Association appointed committee to
have the question IN charge.
According TO \. A. Benner & Co.. commission
merchants. of No II Water-st only Pier Is avail
abo for the public. and this pier is shortly to be
condemned. leaving the public without a wharf
available for vessels below the Catherine-st. ferry
New-York tribune., 1905-02-09
HIT ON DEAD MANS CURVE"
General Agent of Car Moving Company
Killed at Port Chester.

E. 5. Allen. General Eastern agent of the Apple
ton Car Moving Company, OF Appleton, Wis. WAS
killed yesterday morning while walking through
the yards os the New-York. New Haven and Hart
ford Railroad at Port Chester. Mr. Allen went to
Port Chester the night before, and stopped at the
Opera House Hotel. He on his way to the
freight yards to make demonstration of his car
moving apparatus. Just as he reached the curve
over North Main-st. known Dead Mans Curve
he heard the New-Canaan Express bound for New
York, approaching. 1t is presumed that he mis-
judged the track it running owing TO the
curve, and stepped directly in front OF the train
The locomotive caught him and carried his body
about three hundred feet The body was badly
mangled, and he died in a few minutes
According to letters found In the pockets, Mr..
Allen had a wife and daughter living at Appleton,
Wis and cousin in Vernon. n; J. The curve
where Allen was killed is one of the sharpest and
most dangerous the NewHaven system a
dozen people have met death there in the last FIVE
years The State Railroad Commission examined
the and decided that 1t could order no change
the tracks were high above the street, and peo-
pie had no occasion be the tracks and in
doing so unquestonably trespassed.
New-York tribune., 1905-02-09
DEFIANCE FOR BUILDERS.
Thompson-Starett Company WM
Not Obey Lockout.

The building Trades Employers Association was
practically set at defiance yesterday by L. j. Nor
ton treasurer OF the Thompson-Starrett Company.
who appeared before the grievance committee to
charges-of violating the orders of the board
of governors by re-employing its locked out mem
bers of the Brotherhood of Carpenters. PRESIDENT
Theodore Starrett OF the company had been sum
moned to attend but sent Mr.. Morton In his placs'
was understood that this meeting was to give the
firm a last opportunity of agreeing to obey the
lockout order, as It's comes up before the
board Of governors for final action to-day.
1t was learned that Mr.. Morton replied in the
affirmative to all three questions: Have you been
employing locked out members OF the Brotherhood
of Carpenters? Are you employing them at pres
ent? Will you continue to employ thernE Mem
bers OF the Employers Association said that inc
firm would be expelled, The firm Will resign, II Is
believed unless the hoard OF governors acts soon
New-York tribune., 1905-02-09
BRICkLAYERS IN TROUBLE.
National Body against Fireproofng
II gTeement.

In spite of efforts to keep secret the proceedings
at the convention Of the Bricklayers and Masons'
International Union at San Francisco which ended
a few days ago. some of the proceedings leaked
out yesterday. The international union has ex-
PEELED Local No. %. of NewYorl,. violating the
resolution OF the Trenton convention giving every
contractor who pays union wages and observes
union conditions liberty to install freprooflng brick
and the Trenton decision was reafirmed
This action was the protest OF the New
York locals, which have agreement with the
Mason Builders Association containing the Gus
tomary clause by which the installation of the
freproofing must be done by mason builder only
In the mean time the New-York bricklayers are
between two fires Their present trade agreement
is an advantageous one and by its provisions their
wages to be advanced March from 65 to 20
cents hour up to the end of the year. If they
obey the international union. they break this agree
ment. and if they disobey it they liable to ex-
pulson.
New-York tribune., 1905-02-09
JOHN WOOD.

The funeral of John Wood real estate broker
and veteran of the Civil War. held at his
home. No 1S9 Washington-ave.. Brooklyn. last
night He born in New-York City in 1898 He
enlisted in the navy at the time of the Civil War,
and served executive officer of the Wyandotte,
the Aries and the Tristram Shandy. While in COM
maad of the last named the battle Of Fort Fisher
his sword shot out of his right hand and his
arm badly disabled. One of his most treasured pos
sessions a sword that his brother officers had
given him In recognition of his bravery that
cason. His home had been in Brooklyn for twenty
five years. He leaves a widow.
New-York tribune., 1905-02-09
WOULD IMPROVE BRONX WATERWAYS.

Ex-Tax Commissioner James I. Wells spoke be-
fore the North Side Republican Club last night at
No 26s9 Sd-ave., the necessity OF immediate and
continuous Improvement OF the Harlem River and
the Bronx Kills He said demand should be
made on the River and Harbor Committee at Wash
ington for immediate attention to these demands.
The rapid increase OF business in The Bronx Is
being retarded by the lack OF Improvement in these
waterways, practically all building material
had to be carted long distances. The work he said
must begin at once, and be continued until the
engineers of the War Department pronounced 1t
completed. Resolutions asking for these Improve
Mt az
New-York tribune., 1905-02-09
Wonen'S S SqUeaters

Every woman who possesses sweater
and there are few who do not-has been get
ting magnificent service out of it during the
last few weeks
Those who are not provided with these pro-
teCtive garments will be interested in this s1x-
gestion. We show these sweaters in many dr.
ferent weaves: some with close-htting collar.
some with shawl collar effect, some cOiIarIe=z.
some fastened with pearl buttons. others with
hooks-and-eyes. Colors include white xrsy
red and black.
Prices, S1.75, s2. up to S4.75
Second floor. Tenth street.