Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-17
carlcature Of herself merely to support


certain accepted style
=
There Is ono point however, upon which
Dame fashion 10 decided this fali-fitted
lines to replace the loose effects that were
so graceful and almost universally becom-
Ing last year. In spite. though. Of this APP
parent close At there is in . well-put-up
coat no suggestion of pulling In but rather
a simple easing into new lines. To bring
about this end dress waists and blouses
have to be made over boned Innings to give
support to the outer wrap. So farewell TO
comfort and the easy grace OF q style that
is deadi waistcoats and collar details give
variety to the new coats. A recent model
shows a most effective directoire collar and
talbot arranged OF lingerie and bordered
with velvet, Besides the replacing of loose
lines with fitted ones, many of the new
coats. particularly those belonging TO suits,
have long seam running from the shout
old-fashioned dart. And there Is, too.
novelty which in the hands OF an expert
can be made very charming-the bead coll
lar. These quaint accessories are most at
less to say, great care must be exercised
that they shall not recall too distinctly the
beadwork cushion that haunts the bygonc
decades.
Skirts are little undecided in their de.
yelopments, but the plated ones have be-
come de mode and the full jupe Is doomed
to bloom and blush unseen in smart sar-
tarial circles. The circular cuts, as I
have said more than once are the things
to conjure with. Paquin Is bringing out
circular effect in comparatively heavy
weight cloth that is Ideal both for comfort
In walking and artistic beauty. As TO the
length of skirts. there is also a diversity
OF opinion in the Rue de la Paix ateliers,
but It is safe to infer that short Jupes Will
be relegated to rainy day and morning
wear and that trailing lengths will disport
themselves as best gowns"
Sleeves, like skirts, hesitate to declare
themselves. but whatever fullness the new
manche boasts 1t is pushed we'll Up above
the elbow. and many of the tailored suits
show no fullness except where the sleeve
is fitted into the arms eye.
-
Velvet Is to be high in favor for fall and
winter costumes, not only in panne and silk
back weaves. but in the more democratic
velveteen. which at Its best is a very sat
isfactory substitute. Hand embroidery will
still be In vogue, but don't you think we are
a trifie tired OF the eyelet or broderie an
glaise? There Is hardly q question that
some other artistic work Will take Its place.
and the Parisians are already finding out
the charm OF a highly padded relief en-
broidery. In design OF oak leaves this
Work u exquisite, ING iedNtS Ouiiiiieo WAN
small holes overcast with silk.
The draped waist, which made its APP
pearance on the handsome gowns OF mid
summer. Is promised as a winter model.
fashion that is usually becoming to the
average figure. Not only will these swathed
waists be seen ensemble. but many of the
swagger separate bodces are thus draped.
A charming model for q fall silk gown
Is carried out after this effect with its
bodice draped In soft folds from shoulder
to a trifie below the waist line. where II
ends sans ceinture The front fullness is
disposed in two rows of putting caught at
the waist with eight large buttons placed on
each side of the opening. The neck. slightly
decolette. Is filled in with a lace collar and
dickey. The sleeves are shirred in the CEN
ter and finished with puffngs and frills OF
lace banded with silk. The skirt has
plain panel in front and at the feet a puff
Very smart Is another frock whose skirt
is trimmed with scalloped inverted ruf-
ies put on q foot above the hem at the
back and sides and rounding down on each
side of the front to the feet, where they are
held by silk motifs suggestive Of ragged
chrySanthemums. The elbow sleeves have
the same quaint trimming. and the bodice
is draped about chemisette OF lace and
fastened with three silk frogs.
OF course, these draped bodices necessi-
tate slight modification of the figure. and
the bust is consequently thrown higher,
but the corset of this shape does not push
the figure out of PROPORTION. 1t merely
means that a woman must learn to stretch
her muscles. AS the chest is raised and the
muscles grow tense the figure viii adapt
itself to the requirements for a high corset.
CATHERINE TALBOT.