The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1905-04-27

great NCdaRf ESPECIALLY
by matrons, wells of net, crepe border
ed, or of wolfe are perfectly good form.
The bretelle gown seems to be gain
ing favor marvellously. 1t is a very
youthful fashion, and should never be
attempted by stout woman The
stage-peasant appearance is not adapt
ed of modern conditions. The bretelle
gown is boon to mothers of growing
girls, especially if there are gowns of
her own TO be Eemade for the daughters
If there is material enough for the
skirt and the merest scraps left over a
pretty gown is altogether possible. The
bretelles may be made of fancy trim
mings, matching the materials in color
and general design, and the material
itself appears in the shoulder pieces.
They alone are enough to connect waist
and skirt. A charming dress for
young girl was made of silver gray
fancy silk, with a small embroidered
figure in darker gray and black. The
skirt was made with wide side plaits
stitched over the hips. There was. a
trimming around the foot of the skirt
of fancy black braid, put on in a pat
tern. The bretelles were of the braid
with small double ruehing of the silk
on either edge. For the shoulder caps
the silk ruffle became much wider, and
was shirred on the lower edge. A wide
crush girdle of the silk was fastened
with three large black crocheted butt
tons.
Similar to the brettele gown is the
peasant waist and skirt The skirt is
made simply and is always wide and
full. The waist is a Iow-necked round
bodice, with straps over the shoulders.
This is a very pretty model for a young
girl. Purple and white foullard COM
hined with purple velvet made
charming gown worn by an extremely
blond young woman. The skirt was
box plated and shirfed alternately all
around. and hung quite full from the
waist. The girdle and shoulder straps
were of velvet, the latter of velvet rib
bon tied in little bows, where they
Joined the waist. The guimpe was Of
deep cream batiste embroidered with
dots and eyelet embroidery.
There was a time when the guimpe
played such an important part in the
fashions, although in old fashion plates
of the fifties one sees innumerable ex-
amples practically identical with the
present styles. At that time bodices
were made with heart-shaped and
square neeks, with guimpes or fuckers
j of the finest lawns and India muslins
covered with needle work. Under
; sleeves were worn. too, just as at
present, and many women treasure
among relics of ante-bellum finery ex-
quisite bits of needle-work, yellow with
age.
Soft muslin gowns in delicate colors
are being made with white lace or
batiste embroidery yokes and guimpes
Similarly, gowns of eyelet en-
broidery have guirnpes Of plain mater
dal, usually very ,diaphanous In texture.
A gown Of heavy pink linen was erti-
broidered in wide bands which ran
down the sides of the skirt on either
side Of the front panel and above the
! circular fiounce. These were worked in
eyelet and were very large in design.
The simple blouse, open In the back,
was cut square in the neck, both back
and front. and had a wide border of
the eyelet embroidery. A band Of the
embroidery ran down the shoulder
seams and extended the length of the
sleeves. The entire front of the waist
was covered with medallions Of en-
broidery.. The guimpe was of the thin
nest muslin tucked erosswise, and the
collar was simply continuation with
out any joining seam.
r,hara ara cn,,,a ayoaIla,+ ,,;r,,,a.. -,
the market this, spring, much lighter
in weight thar. this fabric has ever
been before. These are In great de-
inand, both In, the plain and figured
| varieties. Pique is as good a material
as linen for coat and skirt suits, and,
indeed, has some points Of superiority.
It does not crush as easily as linen,
| and in the light weights now to be had,
| is not as warm,
! A gown of pale buff was made with
| a skirt laid in small close plaits, with
| a plain front panel. The blouse had
| similar plaits on the shoulders, which
were very wide In their effect The
| blouse was cut out in the neck in d
| tapering square and fastened diagonally
| with large pearl buttons. The sleeves
were plated at the cuff and were full
above. A wide belt of the piaue was
fastened with = a large oblong pearl
buckle. There was guimpe of muslin
and lace.
| A white pique gown had plain
plated skirt and a blouse with a wide
front panel OF eylet embroidery The
| panel was buttoned in like a waistcoast,
| wifi, ~
groups of three. The collar was Of the
embroidery, with a ruching Of Va
| Tenderness ~
| The revival of ruff1es and frills is a
| boon to thin women who have sorne-
times found it difficult to wear summer
muslins becomingly. One can have a