Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-14

is recorded as even up to the average
height.
The newest and most elegant afternoon
frocks are SURPRISINGLY fine, for French
taste has chosen silk, velvet, satin and chif-
fon cloths as smart street textures. Tweeds,
except in the form of very swagger coats,
which are used for travelling, automobiling,
ETC., and are topped by hugh woolly berehs
(tam caps) have no popular vogue. Here
and there a few dear little short frocks with
bob-tailed coats and gay vests are seen,
and are distinguished by sleeves which are
anything but large. But everybody who is
anybody drives in Paris in the afternoon,
so the gown in fine stuffs, with clinging
long skirt, is most seen.
The velvets and satins used for these are
of lndescribable softness, and upon the vel
vets soutache braids upon silk give often
effective contrast. Cloth almost exclusively
shapes the wool dress of elegance, though
cashmere sometimes devises a little frock
of extreme daintiness.
Soft Cloths Used.
The chiffon and satin qualities of cloth
are preferred to the woolier Sorts and pru-
nellie "a wild plum blue, with a tnge of
violet and red and the dark London gray
are the smart colors.
With this murky tint. London gray in
the field, it would look as if moleskn would
be popular revived, for the Partisan uses Of
Tins lovely fur are yet only tentative
With one long limp skirt of London gray
cloth, utterly untrmmed except for a shap-
ed founce, was combined little loose jack
ct OF moleskin and a bodice of white en-
proldered net White Is most often put with
THIS Slate-l1ke gray, which, when evolved. in
toilet of distinctive elegance has
grave chic which is immensely fascinating.
The gown may be tailored but IL falls with
the grace of the most airy fripperfes and IF
there is a gray hat with white flowers and
long gray veil, the ensemble is delicious
IN the little cafes in the Bots, and In the
tea rooms and smart reading rooms, which
seem to be patronized for gossip alone one
sees the little bodices which have taken the
place of the lingerie waists. Elegant novel
ties, Which are worn under the jackets of
velvet or silk frocks, or under lace coats
FOR dyed-lace coats trimmed with a touch of
fur are the latest thing-are made of cotton
net or crepe de chene, hand embroidered
The net affairs are for the moment the most
admired, for they express the right Partisan
simplicity while seeming extremely dressy
and often the high belts worn with
them are made of the tinseI-edged en-
prize ribbons, which, IL one NAV ex-
clude some of the extraordinary birds
used, are the newest hat trimmings
The net waists are unlined the padded en-
brolderies, which are made in cotton floss
covering them completely; and in this d.
aphonous form they are worn simply over
lace-trlmmed corset covers, though some
times several SILK slips In delicate tints are
ordered with them. The crepe de chene
bodlces are white, embroidered with silk
out In color SO faint the incrustation la
almost Ike pattern in the crepe. Floral
the tlnts of leaves and stems of natural
blossoms.
The Newest Things.
These dainty bodices are the very newest |
things in waists. and the models follow the |
Dack-buttoning and short-sleeved styles of |
the summer. They are not excessively dear |
mere; 100 francs-$30-is thought quite a fair
price. but buyers for the trade affirm that
from $75 to S125.
Already the lighter furs are beginning to
appear, the autumn here Is not the glorious
aH9 lingering season 1t is in America.
The Paris season of dead leaves as the
french SO POLITICALLY dub the fall Ga saison
oes feuflles mortes) comes with a iump
ana generally furious rains. So the Parish
ehne Walks over brown, wet leaves In her
new DibS and fuckers and looks I'D at once
through naked tree branches at leaden |
skies. There are no Rousseau sunsets Ito
speak of, no golden and red glory of the
autumn iear; wherefore when Paris takes
TO an autumn color 1t Is in more senses
than one dead leaf'-the present name for
one or the colorless browns-and at once |
fur pieces are worn, though more In the
way of ornament than anything else
with the smarter frocks seen in the Bots |
Dig. nat mufrs and narrow sling scarfs are
already worn. In these details is observed
700; tendency to work up ermine with
moieskin, and many OF the short fur coats
the Dig makers are turning out for later use |
are distinguished by this mixing with other
skins. Broadtail is used with sealskin, and
erhnne ana mink or sable often go together |
and though the combination is a season old
the present methods OF employment are
distinctly novel.
Kimono Model.
For example. loose short coat of Rus
sian sable was shaped and trimmed kimono /
rashion with ermine. Fluffy undersleeves
and neck filling of superb lace softened
the rather hard lines of this coat, which |
was In new and rather admired style.
Lace rufiies. the great people tell you, are
10 trim all elegant fur garments, but the |
nuns and stoles of the large sets will be |
left plain.
To return to the subject of couture the
superbly dressed heads one sees about Paris
oIten involve as much fatigue as in the |
DAYS when heads were coiffed for a week |
4, ana no remained ma ooiffed. The hair dresser is
function. and madame Is reduested not to |
come to him with her hair lately washed: |
ana though the actual arrangemnnt OF the
haIr goes not consume so much time. count |
less thapss are done by way OF preparation, |
Women who understand their reauiremeuts |
TO perfection have all the padding which |
now puEs ana builds out the hair made to
order. Ail-sheH combs the exact color Of |
the hair are more used than metal trimmed |
ones, and one or two coifreurs are trying
hard to revive the old English fringe or
Amartcan bang. But only the dainttest flun |
q q, locks at the temples is seen az yet. and
puffs and curla The high waved por1pa-
aour arrangement. which u so wig-lIke In
its smooth artihciaiity. however. Is san the |
favorite couture,
A Regular Tyrant.
Dehshtfuiiy audanious stories are told OF
ono coiffsuy Of reputaktom Having reached
~ point yhm4 - cen - Ind pendApx wz4h-
beQE1nAs I'm ~ PIN tpnaazs;