The true northerner. [volume] (Paw Paw, Mich.) 1855-1920, 1905-07-28

Powdered pumice stone is sold in sew
eral grades OF fineness. and the finest
only should be used on varnish or shell
lac. The cost will be three or four cents
pound.
Pulverized rotten stone of the best
quality will cost from five 10 eight cents
pound. Both pumice and rotten stone
! should be bought only where varnish
and other wood finishing materials are
sold, thus insuring a good article free
from dust and grit.
The art of finishing fine furniture,
pianos, etc, after they are made, as may
be inferred from the description and
instructions given regarding varnishes
and how TO use them, is not only COM
plicated, but requires years of expe-
rience and practice, and is far in ad-
vance of the work Of the varnisher or
painter who finishes the interior Of our
houses.
Yet with these facts before him, the
beginner may with care and patience
in following these simple directions
produce a passably fair finish on ar
ticles made by himself, and bearing on
which we wish 10 emphasize the fol-
lowing points:
l. Water stain will dry in one hour;
oil stain requires "a TO 80 hours.
2. Filler must be rubbed off perfectly
clean from the surface and from all
angles and corners. 1t must then have
from "A TO As hours TO harden and dry.
3. Each coat OF varnish or of shellac
must be dry and hard before another
is applied.
4. Each successive coat Except the
LAST must be sandpapered smooth when
dry.
.. Each coat of shellac should have
about "A hours TO dry and harden.
u. Each coat of copal (turniture) var
nish must have from two TO four days
TO dry and harden.
Z Shelac varnish does not resist
moisture hence be sure TO use oil, not
water, with the pumice stone.
S. Copal, being an oil varnish, resists
moisture. therefore may be rubbed with
pumice and water 10 produce an even
surface.
8. Pumice stone will cut much faster
when used with water than when used
with oil.
10. When copal is rubbed with pumice
and water the finished surface, although
even and smooth, will have no gloss
H. If copal is rubbed with pumice
and oil Gnstead Of water). a beautiful
dead finish is produced. which many
persons prefer to a bright, glossy
polish.
II n a bright polish is desired on
any kind OF varnish, it must be polished
with rotten stone and oil, after being
cut to an even surface with pumice
stone
Is. Never use block or holder when
sandpapering shellac or varnish. Of any
kind. Use the hand only.
IA Use a block when rubbing down
fiat surfaces with pumice and oil. or
water, only long enough 70 cut of the
larger projections Of the varnish. Then
use the hand alone TO hold the rubber.
10. Never sandpaper the last coat
use pumice stone. as directed.
Note.-All articles finished with copal
varnish can be cleaned and renewed
in appearance, after long use. in no way
so well as to wash with soft cloth and
tepid water. 10 which a little mild, fine
soap has been added. No injury will
result. provided they are at once wiped
dry with soft cloth. To improve the
polish after the above. go over all sur
faces with a small piece of chamois
skin and a few drops of olive oil. and
finally polish with a soft. cry chamois
until all oil has been removed, espe-
cially from the angles and corners.
Much of the foregoing instruction ap-
plies TO the finishing of wood on which
a fine, smooth surface and polish are
desired. A very common but rough
finish may be produced by first stain
ing (when desired), filing and then
applying two or three coats of good var
nish of any kind, and leaving the last
coat in its natural gloss, unrubbed.
Such a finish may be seen on the in
terror hard woodwork of many houses.
and also on the cheap grades of cab
met furniture.
Waxing.
Waxing is the most durable. and the
most easily renewed of all finishes for