The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-05-21

Wl0ClGT III 1uOlulA6 VI dltplhSShS 10 aAiesN>
with skirt to clear, although the carriage
gown still retains Its graceful round length
and the house and evening frocks arc either
round or show an inclination toward
revival Of the narrow train.
There has been such improvement IN the
cutting and hanging Of the walking ekirt
that it Is no longer the awkward, unbecom-
ing thing 1t was and though to some women
particularly those overwhelmed with
avoirdupois and those who have not length
OF limb in proportion to their length Of
waist-the short skirt can never b be-
coming. one can hardly expect the I'M
fortunate one to sacrifice comfort to grace.
when al her sisters are trotting about In
comfortable skirts.
Going back for moment to tho coat
| proposition, the short coat is not having
everything it's own way in costumes, though
| it has more OF lead than WAS expected.
| The redipgote-a naIne applied recklessly
! to all long, full suit coats, though many OF
| these are notifications Of the Russian
| blouse rather than redingotes-arc worn
| by some women with great SUCCESS. and
many smart redingote models have been
turned out by the best makers.
The costume sketched for tho central
group Is o remarkably good example of
this coat at it's severest and its best, and in
cloth, with stitching, big velvet buttons
! and neck finish and cuffs OF embroidered
linen, it had marked dist inction.
Another coat. Partisan in origin. but
neither redingote nor bolero, nor In fact
belonging under any general classification,
buttons closely from throat to bottom, the
| little buttons set upon a narrow waistcoa
line Of white bordered by narrow en-
broidered gallon. The gigot sleeves have
touches Of the white cloth and the gallon
at the wrist, but the skirt is untrimmed.
The original feature Of the coat is the velvet
girdle knotted round the waist and falling,
with fringed ends, at the left side. A knot
Of the same velvet Us at the throat on the
little transparent chemisette Of lace.
All of the popular coat models arc copied
in linen and pique. though usually in their
simplest forms. Tho loose coat, long or
short. Of linen may be plainly tailored, but
is more often trimmed in heavy embroidery
aud lace.
Short double breasted tailored coats,
semi-ftting, are smart in linen or pique
with walking skirts Of tho same material.
| Pique, as we have noted before, has come
back into favor, and the pique short skirt
will as of yore, be one Of the summer girls
best friends.
1t is. lrokily for the laundress, quite as
often plainly gored and stitched or strapped
as plated, and worn with one Of the dainty
sheer lingerie waists it is as practical and
pretty for morning as any comfortable
and easily Numbered costume can be. A
tailored bolero, short sack coat or semi
fitted coat, or one Of the modi,h little capes
is valuable adjunct and gives a finish
never obtainable in O skirt and separate
| blouse.
Organdies and other sheer cotton stuffs
assume more Importance as the hot months
draw near and the sheer one tone cottons
in all Of tho standings found among the
seasons silks and woods are among the
characteristic notes Of the season. The
stuhs, either plain or mercerized, are much
fancied by French makers and are not only
made up alone, but are combined with
silk quite as though they were materials
Of great cost and rurity. Raised dots
In self tone or eyelet embroidery in self
oottons moro often than any other orna-
mentation.
The sprigged nainsooks and percales
| TAKEN up Wy Sciuo VI tuo ioo1iouhDl0 u et3S-
makers OF Paris last summer are to be
exploited still more widely this season.
and the simple materials are made up with
as much care and intricacy Of detail and
design as though they were worth high
prices
The embroidered swisscs, both in all white
and in color on q white ground, are prettier
| than ever before and are finding great
favor Shaded dots or lozenges embroid-
cred on white are particularly effective,
and among these designs ono with dots
/ Of varying sizes and shading from light to
dark bright blue sprinkled over the white
surface is especially good.
plur1etis i, one tone or with embroidered
designs in color or white or tcru ground
has a considerable vogue, and the mulls,
batistes and fine lawns, whether lain,
embroidered in raised dots or sprigs or
| embroidered in eyclet design, are all de-
! sirable.
DYED laces and embroideries are used
upon the colored cottons, as well as upon
silks &c, although the fad for dyed lace
was said to be quite dead and coat of
heavy light hued lace worn over full
skirt of fine lace in the same tone and re-
lieved by creamy white lace of still another
kind at the throat is extremely modish.
Dyed heavy lace coats with skirts Of
sheer silk or wolfe, or skirts Of fine lace.
with coats Of silk the came color, are also
chic, and long full redingote coats Of fine