Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-02
CLEVER INVITATIONS
NEW EMBRoIDERIES ON SILK
AND LINEN.

| the sheerest of grounds, are giving the
| work of her dainty fingers hard run for
| first place Machinery has reached such
| high stage of perfection that the results
| can be distinguished from hand-work only
upon close examination. On silk particu-
| larry, machine embroidery resembles very
closely that most extravagant of feminine
eXtravagances, oriental hand-work. In fact,
they are done with malice aforethought to
initiate the highly raised rather ford eff
fects of japanese, Chinese, East Indian and
Panama embroideries.
English eyelet work, or broderie Anglais,
can also be initiated very cleverly by ma
chine, and the Hamburg, nainsook and
Swiss of this season are SO closely set that
they are as effective, if not genuine. as
hand embroidery. Further, the ground
work fabric for such embroidery is more
sheer this year than it has ever been in
the history of machine work.
Madras, showing a small design in ma
chine embroidery, is one of the smartest
fabrics for tub-gowns, and it really does
not pay the woman who has many interests
to spend much time on handwork. A French
material, known plumetis, is another
lingerie favorite, and can be had in all
white and very small embroidered designs
of conventional pattern, or the pattern Is
done in pink, blue, green or black.
All-over broderie AnglaiS Is shown al its
best on pique or batiste linen. 1t is very
effective on the heavier grades of silk, but
does not show to advantage on the very
thin habutai silk, popular with the sum-
mer girl. Tailored tub dresses of pique are
made up with very elaborate cavalier cuffs,
belts and stocks of the all-over eyelet work.
and for morning functions the broderie An
glaIs appears in separate coats of lawn or
fine linen. These are made in half or three
quarter length from the all-over eyelet
work. and worn with blouses of
palmer and finer material buried beneath
frils of Valenciennes lace.
1t is a grave mistake for the girl whose
frock shows a bold pattern in all-over
brOderie Anglais to wear this in fashion
which displays even the most delicate cor
set cover beneath. The fad of the moment
among very smart women is to wear IN
der the gown of eyelet work a slip, In very
soft silk or sheer lawn, of some delicate
coloring, such pale blue, pink laven-
der And where the smart three-Guarter
coat shows such an interlining. Milady of
Modes wears a scarf or silk tie of the
same hue at her throat
Lingerie hats in the broderie Anglais
work are again on the market Some of
these show a crown and brim of the ordin-
airy eyelet work, with plisse ruffies of lace,
or lawn edged with lace. for a finish on the
edge of the brim; or the inside of the brim
may be faced with innumerable little ruffles
of soft lace. But for wear with the tub
coats in eyelet work. more severe hat in
the same design will be worn by the wo-
man who prides herself on all-tailored eff
fects for morning use.
In fashtonng shirt waists in which brod-
erie Anglats plays part, 1t is not unusual
to see the all-over embroidery forming the
lower part of the blouse and tucking fur
nishing the yoke-a complete reversal of
the old order, very pretty model on
these lines shows a deep. tucked yoke.
back and front, with three insets of In
sertiOn, separated from the lower part OF
the waist by similar band of machine
Hamburg. The blouse part shows all-oyer
eyelet work inset with oval medalions to
match the insertion. and the sleeves are
in the colonial pattern, that Is, two puffs.
separated by band of insertion, with a
deep cuff of insertion and tucks. Such
waist may not be worn by the short. stout
woman, it cuts off the figure and de-
tracts from the height. 1t is distinctly
blouse for the tall. long wasted, slender
girl.
AS a rule, all the lines Of trimming on
tub dresses and the general effects In en-
broidery show vertical tendency A pro-
nounced effort has been made to introduce
many fOunced skirts. but the short, stout
woman Is not compelled to wear them be-
cause the vertical line of trimming is fully
as fashionable and will be much more gem
orally seen than bouffant, horizontal ruff
fes.
Last season hand-run tucks, exauisitely
fine puffs, shrrings and fagotting tried the
eyes of ambitious home SeamstreSses and
wore on the tempers of laundresSes. This
year blouses are much more simple propo-
sitionS for both parties. Girls are making
very simple shirt waists and blouses from
eXquisitely fine material. such grass linen
and the sheereSt of wash silks, and then
setting them off with elaborate cuffs, col
lars, stocks, embroidered box pleats to run
down the front of the blouse and girdles If
eyelet patterns prevail in these sets they
are worn with the heavier grades of wash
fabrics, and for the lawn waist come sets
of sheer, fine lawn embroidered in delicate
design. scalloped on the edges and set off
by dminutive frils of the sheerest lace.
The girl who does not do hand embroid-
tat,f rca1f x.ritI &C.,
guimpes and girdles made from the Ham
burg nainsook or Swiss embroidery which
comes at such a reasonable figure and in
such exquisite patterns. To give these lit
tie dress accessories the suggestion of
handwork she has only to scallop the edges
and buttonhole stitch the scollops-a COM
paratively simple task.
A word as to the washable girdles which
are sold with many of the ready-to-wear
shirt waists Quite frequently these are
tackled to the blouse. They should be re-
moved and plain piece of white material
substituted. The girdle should then be
fitted upon one of the ready-to-wear girdle
foundations which come in chiffon, fine
canvas or linen. A wash girdle will not
otherwise retain Its shape, but will crumple
around the waist in most inartistic and un-
tidy fashion.
1t will pay a girl who is making her own
tub frocks to make a tour of the exclusive
shops which have acquired reputation
for fine lingerie effects. Here she can see
just the manner in which the fascinating
blouses of lawn, hand embroidered and in
set with lace, are fashioned. Their trus
art lies In their simplicity and the subtle
fashion in which vertical lines are secured.
When she has mastered these little 9e-
tails she will obtain better results In COM
bining the machine insertions, medallions
and all-overs In homemade gowns.
For instance, in the Maison Blanc she
will find that hand embroidery goes with
hand-run tucks; but she will secure better
results If her tucking is done with very
fine thread and needle on the machine to
combine with the machine-made embroid-
cries. On the other hand, she will Dnd
in combination with heavy piques and iin-
ems, done in hand embroidery, ruffies of
the finest Valencennes. She should not
attempt to initiate this by putting a coarse
valenciennes lace against the eyelet work
as it Ia the. contrast between the heavy
fabric and the very fine lace that Is eff
fective. The coarse lace is the stamp CT
the factory-made stock cuff set
Between two fabrics the inexperienced
shopper has some difficulty in decIdiaS