davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

The really fine and dainty blouses hand
embroidered inset with lace and suggestive
in their fneness and delicaCy Of baby robes
and frocks, are necessarily high In price,
but, il one cannot afford these, there are
in a few Of the best shops delightful little
bouses OF finest null devoid Of all trimming
save a multitude Of tiny tucks and frill
Of fine valenciennes at the throat and
wrists. These are very inexpensive as COM
pared to the moro elaborate bouses as
fine. yet they are much more chic and
desirable than the coarse and elaborate
models
In the underwear departments are offered
Italian silk slips high necked, plain, made
with long, close sleeves and buttoning in
visibly in the back. These are for wear
with the sheer blouses, now that the peek
a-boo idea is mercifully out Of fashion;
but many women have plain slips Of India
silk made al home, OF, ever less expensive
and quite az practical, plain slips Of fine
white lawn.
And while we are talking Of lingerie
blouses and. by inference, of high trans
parent collars. there is a new invention for
supporting such collars which seems less
known than it deserves 20 be. The set in
CluOtb llINN nat kNlu NllAtnt oHt lOl tuIn
side Of tho collar, one for the back On
the side Of each end Of the slide Is q minute
ront upon which is screwed tiny button
OF jewel.
The slide Ia laid under the collar, the
points pierce through the sheer collar, the
wee buttons are screwed on, and there is
your collar held out TO its proper width
and with no mechanism showing save a
CLINT Of gold underneath the lace and q tiny
pearl or Jewel or god button at top and
bottom. In solid gold and real jewels tho
sets are expensive, but plated sets cost
very little.
or the use Of ribbon this season much
might be written but It is hard 10 give
10y description an idea Of the multifarioas
uses to which ribbons are put, The ribbon
embroideries used on everything from
parasols TO evening frocks arc wonderfully
beautiful, and among the new trimmings
are shaded velvet ribbons Of varying widths
embroidered in tiny flower designs ofribbon
CT in silks and gold thread. Ribbon hands
border the founces OF many garments, Is
In the case Of tie frivolous little YEA. jacket
Of peach blossom mousseline slJe;ched here,
which has borders Of Liberty fAtih ribbon
In the same pink. and a grdle and bow Of
wider ribbon.
Wide folded girdles are made Of the
soft I1berty satin ribbons, theI gorgeous
lowered ribbons and the sIqJsitely One
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

chiffon messaline OF chiffon taffeta ribbons
The last mentioned are frequently used IN
many tones for one girdle, but the lines
must meet tremendously into one another
and It Is not every one who has the artist
eye for such combinations.
One such girdle in chiffon Tnessaline with
g sho wer Of short ends in the back included
silvery gray and all the faded tones dull
pink blue. green, lavender, gold. The
result was as admirable as the millinery
ACHE vements In ttPse tones turned out
by some Of the Partisan milliners.
Less unusual, and yet almost as difficult
Of successful construction, was wide
girdle Of chiffon messaline in American
beauty shades, from tho highest American
beauty pink to the deepest American beauty
red. The fustre Of the satiHy Iihbon and
tho glowing harmony Of color were al
together charming.
The American beauty shades are, by tho
way, very much liked this season, especially
in millinery
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16
ROOMS MADE TO SUIT BEAUTY
white for the Gray Haired Rosy Woman
Soft browns TO Set on Red Hair.

White for the Gray Haired Hcsy Woman
Soft browns TO Set on Red Hair.
'It's a good thing when you are going TO
paper and fix up a room TO work up a color
| scheme that will set of some special treas
ure you may have in the way Of furniture
or ornament. I've worked tho color
scheme of my room Up to my bit Of old
| tapestry" said woman to the caller who
! was rhapsodiZng over a beautiful room
papered in the softest Of deep browns.
THAT bit Of tapestry is the Joy Of my
| heart. It's valuable, old and lovely. But
nobody would notice i especially, in a room
| done In any other color-it isn't big enough.
| Now everybody notices it at onoe, simply
| because its soft light browns look 90 stun
ming against the dark brown paper. IL Is
! the feature Of the room and gives Il q dis
tinglished air because 1t is 30 choice.
! i got the idea from a woman who bad
| worked up a room Of hers to set OF a very
charming peach pink vase that she had.
The advantage have over her Il that my
| keynote for color can't break
Even II anything should happen to the
tapestry, the brown room is a most effective
setting for your ooloring,' suggested the
| caller.
The hostess blushed as though the idea
had occurred to her before.
| Eve often wondered why women don't
| take their own ooloring into account In
| decorating their rooms, know one woman
who has. Her hair is perfectly gray, but
! she il so young II gives the eject OF being
powdered hair She always wears white
! when she receives and she receives in a
perfectly white drawing room. The whole
room is a setting for her face, which Is tho
color Of a rose leaf. In any other room
| vr,,,,1l bet 10
woman. In that white room Of hers you
! call her ravishingly beautiful
The sunlight was glowing over tho
hostess's wealth Of golden red hair az she
sat pouring tea beneath her precious tapes
| try, and the caller found herself rather
soepticaI about the idea that the brown
room had been planned 20 Offset the tapes
! try.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16
TRAVELS OF HOTEL ELEVATORS.
From so "a so Miles = Month for EVER
100 Feet OF SHAFT II the Average.


100 Feet Of SHAFT u the Average.
Nobody who spends much time in the
skyscrapers can help noticing the increased
speed attained by the elevators since the
introduction and perfection Of the safety
clutch. This increase IN speed applies
TO the elevators In apartment houses and
hotels equally with those in Office buildings,
though the hotel elevator is usually still
the slower, as IL always has been.
The maximum speed for a passenger
elevator in ordinary use has been reached,
for the present az any rate, in a Duane
street Office building where one runs with
a rapidity averaging from OOO 10 100 feet
a minute.
Some interesting experiments have just
been made by the Edison Company 70 dis
cover what distance is covered by the or
binary hotel elevator In the course OF
months travels In one apartment hote.
in which there are two passenger elevators
and a shaft $40 feet high travelling ordinarily
$50 feet a minute the elevators covered in a
month i6s and 1853 miles, A freight elevator
almost half as fast covered in the same
period only S2I miles.
The two elevators in ANOTHER hotel ore
with a 254 and the other a 3lS foot shaft.
covered 1876 miles and 1907 miles in a month
ira yelling $50 feet a minute.
The conclusions Tea ched were that IN
hotel service a busy elevator customary
travels from 81 TO 30 miles a month for every
100 feet Of shaft and consumes approx
mately kilowatt hours Of electricity for
every car mile.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

but below these vague flowing folds which
give shoulder breadth the waist curve is
trinity defind by carefully moulded girdle
or belt, 30 that the waist appears the smaller
for the fulness Of the little coat above and
Of tie full skirt below.
Fiat fiber or soutache braid, alone or In
combination with some one Of the attractive
embroidered gallons, trims many Of the boz
leros. Little transyersely plated bands
and pipings Of silk are also popular, but
there IL little Of the very fussy bouillonee
and oording designs 80 m Oh fsncied last
season.
Hand embroidery or material Of con-
trasting color braided Is liked for waist
coats, collars, cuffs, &c, but the fat turn
down collar Of batiste or linen embroidered
and perhaps lace trimmed Is extremely
mOdish for the little boleros Of wool or
silk. Such collars may be bought in the
shops, and changes In them may give variety
10 the coat. Many Of the ready made suits
quite plain In hniah may reooiye = touch
Of chic and froahnaaa from the addition OF
such a collar. and often BY removing an
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

There ara many variations upon the idea /,
two Of the most attractive being illustrated
In the small cuts.
Parislans have fondness for the Pekin
or striped silks a. material for these coats
and the model shown here was most sue
oessful one, with a draped bcdico frcnt
clos ly modelled to the figure ending just
below the waist line az fronts and sides
buttoning double breasted with strass
buttons and having druped revers q hand %
some lace over fat revers q white silk.
In the hack coat tails narrow at the waist
line. broaden TO rounded ends and fall
low over the skirt Of moUsseliDe Inset with
lace.
The other model has broad square skirts
in the back, but q too has a fitted drnped
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

popular in Paris; and once more the waist
coat OF white pique smartly tailored is
10 be very modish with the street costume.
With the long redingote coats. closely
moulded 70 the figure, usually by shlful
draping, are worn close fitting plain bodices
Of silk fastening in the back and covered
in front by some dainty fanciful chemisette,
which shows in greater or less degree ac-
cording as the coatlopens slightly OF broadly.
II il easier 10 ft the coat over this carefully
cut and smooth bodice than over loose
blouse. and the cut and lines Of the redngote
must b. mastery 10 be successful.
The cult Of the chemisette ia approaching
the proportions Of u mania and this little
accessory appears in all sorts Of frooks
from the morning shirt waist frook to the
ceremonious visiting toilet or dinner gown.
It may be a round shallow guimpe may
fill short square or V in front, may reach
20 the waist line, may be U shaped, may
be broadly in evidence or show only
a narrow line but in any and all forms
Il IL the mode, and some Of the lingerie
and the lace chemisettes are exquisite
creations As a rule the chemisette il
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

inset plaitngs and other trimmings nun
ming up from the hem TO the knees and in
suring great width at the bottom Of a skirt
necessarily clinging around waist and hips.
and cut in one with the bodice. Some Of
the best makers consider the little train
better adapted TO a prinoesse model and
use IL, with a skirt length at sides and front
much shorter than in the round skirts.
Probably 1t Is the development Of this
idea in connection with the modish prin-
oesse that has prompted Paquin and others
Of his class TO INTRODUCES the trained skirt
upon some Of the other evening and after
noon toilettes.
In lace the princesse model Is liked, and
in the supple satins and silks as well, the
latter being made with a certain severity
Of line, but usually cut very low in the bod
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

By ths princosss, and q supremely good
corset h even more essential than the good
figure; for In q phncesss gown the lines
the thing, and only CAREFUL correcting can
assure tina correct silhouette.
The lingerie prncease Is a mass OF mana
work. tucked or shirred or In some other
sdlful fashion moulded 10 the waist curves,
full above, though never blousing' fitted
around the hips by clever tucling' goring'
Sc. ample below, and enriched everywhere
With hand embroidery and inset lace. No
one cave an artist should attempt the con-
struction Of one Of thess triumphs OF a
simplicity truly Partisan; but they are
charming when we'll mads and well worn.
To obtain the round skirt in a princes So
model Ia dlficult though Il may he done 10y
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

front, a surplice idea being carried out IN
this case, with wide hands Of real Venetian
lace bordering the surplioe fronts.
The closed, fitted frcnt is favored for a
large number Of these coats, but one sees,
too, the coat open and cut away in front
after a modified Directoire fashion. In
striped silk, plain corded silk, such as the
new chiffon faille, the rich Powered silks
and soft satins these coats are picturesque
and serviceable, and often enc such smart
garment il worn with vGrious sheer skirts
in white, cream or pale tints harmonizing
with the coat silk.
The great variety 10 coat lines IL one Of
the surprising features OF the SEASONS
modes and the diversity seems u increase
rather than diminish az tie weeks 60 by,
The street coat and skirt costume may
have a coat in any length from shortest
bolero to longest redngote, and, since
there is no hard and fast rule, the clever
dressnnaker or tailor will consult the Gus
toners individual needs in selecting a
model for her.
1t is in this consideration that the artist
shows himself. Few French model frocks,
However chic and charming can be donned
by the average woman with results per
fectly satisfactory.
The perfect gown is the gown designed
for the individual woman and owing much
Of it's cachet 10 it's harmonious development
Of the best possibilities Of her face and
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

unattTactiye or unbecoming braided or
appllquGd collar and substituting one OF the
dainty linen collars the entire effect OF a
ready made bolero may be altered for the
better.
Boused or draped fitted coats ending at
the waist line or just below in front and
with plated coat tails In the back, shaping
in swallowtall lines, arc shown In some
very good models and while not 30 ex-
treme a. the Louis XIV. coats are happy
compromise between them and the boleTo.
One Of the sketches reproduces a very
successful French frock Of this type, and
in the same group il pictured one Of the
newest redingote models with smoker collar
OF black satin, white vaistcoat and broad
Erdle lines defined by close lines Of heavy
stitching.
The narrow black collar Of thls coat and
Of the plated coat tail model IL an idea
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

courage Of her convictions.
The little boloro coat, risen once more
from its ashes, though some few Paris
correspondents still thunder Examinations
against II. is perhaps kinder 70 the figure
and more generally becoming than any othe
coat model: but there are figures for which
II "a impossible. and It il always youthful
garment and not consistent with consid-
cradle weight Of years
AT tho beginning Of the season one saw
many close fitting boleros, but the short
iaunty loose coat with somewhat indefinite
sleeves and shoulder lines has won first
place These vague boleros are a part Of a
large percentage Of the smartest walking
costumes, and ordinarily fall open to show
rather wide expanse Of dainty blouse.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

Ice to show fuify masses Of lace, chiffon
&C, and made with short OF elbow sleeves
Of lace or sheer stuf. The sleeve made In
two or three frills falling In points 10 the
elbow is a Popular model and very becom-
ing Under such a sleeve in lace one sees
often a little undersleeve Of sheer material
just covering In its pun the elbow l,oint--a
feature seldom admirable even in fairly
good arm.
Where regulation prinoesse cut h lacking
the new frock often attains a modified
princesse effect by the disposition Of the
bodice folds and bodice and skirt trimmings
and the arrangement OF the juncture be-
tween bodice and skirt. This arrange
ment IA, for ceTemonious toilsttes, more
chic than the use Of girdlc, but requires
more slLilful handling, and the fitted swathed
ghd's Ia more practicable for the ordinary
dressmal1er.
The long skiItGd coat costumes Of the
Louis Nv. genre have lost none Of the ir
prSstige and win apparently be worn even
mors than last sumner. the mode not being
restricted 10 the exclusive few. e. Il was
then, but belPg more generally popular.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

are shown in wonderfully attractive guise.
The sheer lingerie blouses continue 70
carly all before them in the realm Of separate
waists, and naturally enough there is a
deluge Of such blouses, SNOWY in effect
but coarse in material. trimmed in cheap
lace and entirely machine made.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

while the loose short sleeves fall in bell
fashion over the blouse sleeves leaving the
latter In evidence from elbow to wrist;
or perhaps the blouse sleeve ends at the
elbow and the still shorter coat sleeve is
slashed up the outside 10 show the under
sleeve.
Often this sleeve is so cut in one with the
body Of the bolero that the effect il that Of
a graceful little cape rather than Of a coat
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

figure Even a slight change In the line
Of collar, girdlc, shoulder or hip will some
times make an unbeooming gown becom-
ing, and the wise woman sartorially is
she who has studied her own lhies and col,
oring until she knows exactly what suits
her and what does not and who has the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

IN one with a transparent collar, but few
are finished with Dutch necl1s.
The rise Of the chenisette and Of the
blouse with collar attached has lessened
the vogue OF the separate tabled collars
and tprnovers, but these are still worn
with ItSin blousss Of ahiIt vaigt type and
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16
MODES VARY MUCH.
Confusion Of Ideas Among
Paris Authorities.
VOGUE OF PRINCESSE GOWNS.
They Ase Chic, Bot Not Easy to
Make OF to Wear.

Changes in the Fashionable Model Of the
Heeve--The Long sklrted COSt COS-
tunes Of the Louis XIV. Genre Have
Lost None Of Their RSeStiEs-dueh
Difference in the Coat Iines-The IAttie
DolerO In Favor AgaIn-The Cult Of the
ChemiSette Approaching the Proper
tIons Of q Manla-The Lingerie Blouses
~
Democratic messenger. [volume] (Snow Hill, Md.) 1869-1973, 1905-06-17

could have raised ten pounds of weight
from the ground. the pain was so severe.
This was my condition when I began us
ing Doan's Kidney Pills. They quickly
relieved me and now am never troubled
as l was. My back is strong and can
walk or ride long distance and feel just
as strong as did twenty-five years ago.
l think SO much of Doan's Kidney Pills
that have given a supply of the rem dy
TO some of my neighbors and they have
also found good results. Ii you can s.ft
anything from this rambling note that
will be of any service to you, or to any
one suffering from kidney trouble. you
are at liberty to do so.'
A FREE TRIAL of this great kidney
medicine which cured Mr.. Corton will be
mailed on application to any part of the
United States. Address Foster ATilburn
Co. Buffa.o. y. Y. Sold by all dealers
price, fifty cents per box.
Democratic messenger. [volume] (Snow Hill, Md.) 1869-1973, 1905-06-17

j. Il. Corton,
farmer and lum-
BERN a n. of
Deppe. y. c.,
says Il suffer-
ed for years
with my back.
1t was so bad
that I could
not walk any
distance n o r
even ride in
easy buggy. I
do nof l,aliava
Democratic messenger. [volume] (Snow Hill, Md.) 1869-1973, 1905-06-17
SOAP MAKING
...IS...
A PLEASURE
IF YOU USE
RED SEAL LYE

Ask your grocer for il. 1t is the best
LYE in the world for fine soap making
and other household uses. If your gro
Ger does not sell it. get him to order it
it from the manufacturers u.
TOMSON q CO. Philadelphia Tell
him y"u want Red Seal Lye-the kind
that make the BEST soap.
Democratic messenger. [volume] (Snow Hill, Md.) 1869-1973, 1905-06-17

"Well." says some one. what does
that mean? DO you mean that l must
marry. whether would or no. and
have u home:" Oh. no. III you do not
want to marry. l am not here to tell
you to marry. But | am here to tell
you that for your own good. strength
and power. you should have love
burden. If you cannot have wife
and children of your own, then
The Montgomery advertiser., 1905-03-11
REDUCTION OF ACREAGE
CAMPAIGN IS TO BEGIN
 NEXT WEEK..
Prominent Speaker Will Open In Mont gomery 'Monday-Mr. Williams Succeeds MT. McLend0n as
 County Organizer.

The outlook for increased enthusiasm in the Alabama campaign for cotton acreage curtailment which begins next week is very bright.
 The Executive Committee of the Montgomery County Cotton Growers Association held a meeting yesterday at which Chairman W. H. Vaughan outlined vigorous campaign for the county organizer to begin Monday in Mount Meigs and to go through Beats IA and 19.
 Monday also marks the beginning of a vigorous speaking campaign to be conducted throughout Alabama by Hon. E. D. Smith, President of the South Carolina Cotton Growers Association. He will speak in Montgomery Monday at noon either in the auditorium or the hall of the House of Representatives. He will make about a dozen speeches in Alabama. His oratorical ability Is more than provincially known and this added to his remarkable success in or ganizing the cotton planters in his na- tive State should prove an attraction of all the anxious farmers of this State.
 The Executive Committee of the Montgomery County Association yes- terday accepted the resignation of James R. McLendon as county organ izer Rev. N. B. Williams was named by the committee as temporary organ izer. the action to be submitted later ot the next meeting of the Association. MT. McLendon, who was elected or- ganizer last Saturday. gave the office his careful consideration and decided soon afterwards that the duties would interfere with his other business af- fairs
 MT. Williams, who succeeds MT. Me- Lendon, is a man of experience in or ganization work. a good speaker and will immediately take charge of the work of organizing the county beats. The Membership Committee of the Association has met with encourage ment in it's work. Many names have been added to the membership roll since last Saturdays meeting.
The Montgomery advertiser., 1905-03-11

I there had been an advance in freight rates on crude petroleum last fall. The Prairie oil and Gas Company lis the successor of the Forest oil Com~ lpany. The Forest Oil Company sold to
 the South Pennsylvania oil Company -
 Mir. Young did not know anything
 about the South Pennsylvania on Com pany except. that it has an office in
 Pittsburg, Pa He knew the Prairie
 oil and Gas Company had been con-
 structing some pipe lines in the State
 and one to Whiting, Ind. He did not
 know what pipe lines terminated at Whiting.
 MT. Young was examined by F. s.
 AGonnett. He brouht no books or papers
 with him.
 MT. Young admitted that John Buch- nell, comptroller of the Prairie Oil Company, has his office at 26 Broad~ way. New York, as has Theodore N. Fowl, the agent of the same company. l but MT. Young denied that he knew of any relation that these two men might have with the Standard Oil Company. MT. Young said that although he had | been a stockholder in the Standard Oil Company for more than fifteen years he had never attended stockholders meeting, could not remember the names of the directors and did not remember to whom he gave his proxy. There was nothing in the testimony given by MT. Young to show directly | that the Standard Oil Company is in deal with the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway Company or with any other railroad company operating in Kansas, but all of the statements made by him today will be of great value in the case against the Standard oil Company now pending in the Su- preme Court. This is a case to oust the Standard oil Company from Kane sas.
 w. F. Gates. superintendent of pipe
 lines of the Prairie oil and Gas Com- pany, the next witness, said he did not
 know how many miles of pipe line had
 been laid in this State under his su-
 pervision and that he did not know
 what roads hauled the pipe to Inde-
 pendence; that he had never seen
 freight bill and did not know what the
 rate was.