The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1905-04-01
Summer ShirtwaiStS

The summer shirtwaist proper is to re-
vert TO its original form. that Is. it win
be made on severer lines than has been
the custom in the last few years. For
one thing, ii will not have the pouch front.
Other differences noted are In the sleeve.
which is slightly full. raised at the top.
and finished with a narrow. starched cum.
The lines of the waist depend wholly on
the figure it is to fit. Some waists have
small yoke. with the material hanging
from II in narrow side or box pleats; 9TH
ers are gathered with moderate fullness
into the collar band. AS for stuffs. there
is to be return to the hair stripes or
fine checks, and perhaps dots. although
stripes and fine checks come first
The elaborate lingerie blouses come into
a different category, and many of them
the coming season will be made with ell
bow or three-quarter length sleeves. yokes
and coquettish fichu collars. that is. with
many of the ideas that prevail now I'm
dress bodiceS. If the sleeve is long the
upper part of it is much trimmed and
puffed and the lower part close and plain.
There are. however some examples of lace
blouses made with close. plain sleeves.
On summer silk and mohair gowns there
will be an extensive use OF English en-
broiderieS, and also. what is newer. fine
pleatings of lawn and swiss.
The models shown on the Rue de la
Paix now include a large proportion OF
evening gowns. for the fashions in even
ing toilets are never defined until after
the New Year. Most of the bodices are
draped in crosSwise fashion. and So nat
urally, there is a large use OF soft stuffs.
An example of a thin lace gown is made
up of many ruffies. put on with headings
OF soft white satin ribbon. The ribbon is
pulled. with little bows here and there.
gold lace. and there is fichu arrangement
of lace and ribbon loops about the decol-
letage. The sleeves are shirred in close
caps at the top. and then fall in a lace
ruffie over a puff that descends to the ell
bow. All evening gowns have sleeves,
and often sleeves that fall below the ell
bows. Sleeves for daytime gowns are so
short and scant now that one might ex-
pect a corresponding decrease in the
sleeves for evening but such evidently Is
not the case.
One of the loveliest evening gowns that
a celebrated couturier has to show Is OF
a shimmering pinkish white satin. with
the lower part of the skirt trimmed with
orchids of tinted gauZe set on with en-
broidered stalks and demonstrations of lace
The corsage Is perfectly plain. but draped
In beautiful folds about the figure. so that
no line of closing is suggested. The decol-
letage is softened with puffs of white
gauze and chains OF pearls. The sleeves
consist of drspery of lace.
A girlish evening gown is Of white tulle
trimmed with garlands of fine pink roses
The skirt is pulled to the knees. and then
falls in many fiounces. edged with lace
and headed with the flowers arranged in
unconventional fashion. Another pretty
fashion of using flowers Is in conjunction
with soft broad ribbon run through flower
ers is frowned on now. and marks the I'M
skillful dressmaker. dancing frock of
pink tulle presents an ideal flower trim
ming. The bottom OF the skirt Is trimmed
with scallops of lace. which lie over fine
pleatings OF tulle and which are headed
with garlands Of small roses. Higher on
the skirt are two rows OF the lace seal
lops, with double garlands of flowers be-
tween. On the corsage is a fichu made of
pleatings. lace and flower garlands, which
hang low from the shoulders. and above
is little gulmpe of finely shirred gauze
finishing a modest decolletage
A handsome reception gown is of white
panne and Irish lace. The skirt OF panne
has no trimming at all. but hangs in beau
tiful folds. The bodice is entirely of the
lace, which is draped about the figure
and so arranged that a series of lace
points finish il at botl. top and bottom.
The sleeves consist of a drapery of panne
with lace points. Falling from one
shoulder is a spray OF white roses with
silver leaves.
The untrimmed skirt seems by no means
unusual now and ii is rather welcome
relief, after the excessive ornamentation
of last winter Some of the most effective
gowns for the daytime show no trimming
at all on the skirt. although in these
cases the stuffs chosen are remarkably
handsome. There seems to be no such
thing as inexpensive simplicity. An all
white or an all-black costume Is expected
to be most Ella borately trimmed. or 1t has
no chic at ali. A simple white muslin
or black mohair must have some dash or
color. The same idea is shown when hand
some, expensive materials are made up