Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1905-05-25
NEW YORK FASHIONS

New York, May 25.--The fingers Of
Oriental embroiders must be fying 70
keep pace with the demand for their
wares. The vogue for all kinds of
Oriental embroideries is in no wav les.
sening, and 80 strenuous has il become
that even the upholstery departments
are sacked of tapestries that in motive
and color and glitter resemble eastern
stitcheries. Only bit may be needed
at time, but bits tell when multi.
tudes are after them.
Girls are doing their own embroid.
cry, often in Orientatl fashion. as
they have not done IL before in an age.
Needlework departments are well aware
OF the craze and are stocked with
ready-to-work waists, belts, stocks, col
lars, VS. and what not. Colored EN-.
broidery on white linen touches up
tailormades wonderfully. It is most
prevalent in collar and cuff sets pre-
pared for either bodice or coat. But
the individual touch is always desirable
Elbow sleeves are all but universal
in all costumes intended for formal oc
casions-in everything, in fact, but ac.
tual walking suits. The walking skirt
is emphatically short--two, three or
four inches, according to becoming
ness, from the floor. No remnant Of
balloon effect is left, but width, lit.
tie eurtained, falls into soft folds. Elab.
crate tailormades have skirts that touch
the ground or more all around, length
that entails a shutting gait unless one
would break ones neck, or worse, dis
grace oneself by awkward tripping.
Persons who read the dissertations on
the return Of mantles, which filed the
fashion journals little while ago,
and who saw the brave showing Of
opening displays where mantillas and
all their kin were back in brave mum.
bers, are wondering where all the vol
luminous sleeve wraps, RULED and
puffed, have gone. They are not gone,
as a fact, but only carriage folks seem
TO take to them.
For the woman who walks, or the
carriage woman when she walks, there
is nothing so winsome as the bolero and
Eton. These little jackets of modest
lineage and proportion have quite put
into the back ground, for all but ear
riage use, the assertive long wraps Of
distinguished memory.
As the season wakes, the little silk
wraps finished with ruches and pufs, =
win bo more seen. They fall in line
beautifully with the soft folds Of full
skirts. The only argument against !
them is their matronly air, which wo-
men of the present day object very >
much TO assuming.
Not only the dressmaker and her
staff, but the home sewer as well, is
putting In multitude Of stitches :,
these days The return Of puGs, ruff
Aes and frills Of all sorts and kinds
multiplies the work on a gown. Not ;,
for many a. year have biases and Il
straight bands been reeled on by moth =,
ers and daughters at the rate Of this :,
year, as their edges have been "blind q
hemmed" and bound and shirred. There q
are things the sewing machine will 0,
never do and the finish Of silk and wool
rufies and folds is among them.
Such host Of faneiful bretelles and
yirdles and sashes are used, and the :,
work they entail is exorbitant. But = =
when it comes TO finishing their edges y Z,
with double rufies the woman who has 8
no gold mine at her feet must do the o
work herself or meet a dressmaker's 8
bill that is too high for her purse.
No wonder the dressmaker's bills have
gone up. Take the ming silk and wool O.
suit, and even the linen ones, this
spring. The woman who has had no ex'
perience in such details gasPs at the
fgures of the dressmaker's bill and
Ten TO one rebels. But more time Is