Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-03-25

be worn for both dressy and semi-dressy
occasions, but only thetmore supple grades
are in demand. for the hat of the hour is
tremendously fnted and denied Some idea
OF the eecentrfcetreatnlent given these soft
straws. can be drawn from a white Neapoii-
tan fiat which bears a Partisan stamp In
its lining. The nat is Of medium size. with
round crown not toy high. In the back
the brirn is turned over SO far that 1t COM
pletely buries the crown and is laid with
Fittings, deep enough so that in each de-
preston there IS room for a spray of del
icate lilac. The llacs, give the effect OF
they are APPARENTLY held in place by a lat
tice work of ruching made from white horse
hair as fine as Sfeathers. This crosses and
recrosses the upturned brim and then. run
ming around completely. covers the under
part of the brim, where Ii shades the face
The brim, by the way, is bent to give just
the suggestion of poke. The upper part
of the brim is half hidden by a shower OF
pale l1lacs, and against the hair In the
back are more lilacs caught with magnifi-
cent buckle built not of straw or metal, but
of tightly twisted ribbon in lavender and
white "F
Net Foundation.
For dress hats the most extravagant, if
not the showiest, foundation is of fine al
most invisible net. embroidered in self-tone
and harmonizing Shades of fine satin straw.
These bands of straw-embroidery are as
in mosaic-like effects. Strangely enough,
they are more durable than heavier-look-
ing fabrics
While geometric figures are used in these
straw materials, there is always the sug-
gestion of floral life and all of the fashion
able colorings for dress fabrics are repro
duced in the straw. Reseda and sage green
are SHOWN, plain, Shaded or combined with
the most delicate of pastel tints. One pat
tern IN which pastel green predominates
mas IN combination an exquisite shade of
tan, suggestion of pastel blue and beads
which change oddly from green to gold
Another pattern shows not less than three
shades of onion brown with the same
changeable heads and heavier pattern
gives Greek effect in three shades of
that peculiar rose which is a cross between
American beauty, red and cardinal.
An extremely rich horse-hair braid in
mulberry is embroidered in straw of a
Hshter shade, set off by beads which have
a metallic hue and others which suggest
the amethyst, the whole giving the effect
of arabesques.
Flowers are also used to form entire
foundations for hats with ribbons. tulle or
even straw used as a trimming, a reversal
of the old order. For wear with a spring
frock of pastel blue broadcloth New York
milliner has turned out a flower hat of
this sort which is distinctly artistic. The
foundation Is delicate blue maline, shirred
on wire turban. The large crown is built
of petals taken from pale blue roses shad-
ing toward the heart to a pastel tan.
Around the center of the crown is APP
pliqued a Star-shaped effect in rose leaves,
Shading from the tan edges to the blue
hearts or veins. Leaves and petals overlap
until an exquisite blending of the two deli
and covered with the rose petals and the
only trimming on the hat consists of pale
blue and pale tan liberty taffetas, laid in
the daintiest of folds.
Medium Sizes.
In the matter of shapes, there is no ques-
ton that the big picture hat is suffering an
eclipse. Toques, turbans, and medium
sized picture hats are in the ascendency.
Later in the summer large hats may ap-
pear for garden functions, but the hat of
the hour is but pretty, dainty finish for
a well-coiffured head. 4.
The smartest hats turn abruptly in the
back to admit Shower effects in ribbons,
tulle and flowers. When the droop over
the face is unbeccming, the shape of the
hat is modified by dents more or less clearly
defined. But the hat which flares distinctly
from the face is no longer considered cor
rect.
In trimming, ribbons and flowers may
play most important part and wonder
fully constructed quilts are composed of
leaves or tiny blossoms quite eclipsing the
glories of quilts drawn from birds in their
natural colors or dyed to every hue of the
rainbow.
The polo turban, which is by all odds the
novelty of the season. is but the cap worn
by polo player, broadened to suit the
feminine face with it's waving hair. and
this hat requires above all things pompon
trimming. A very smart example shows
polo turban built from q fancy straw braid
in golden brown alternating with folds of
brown taffetas in a slightly deeper shade.
The hat has no trimming save a pompon of
soft satin straw in the two shades en-
ployed in the hat and measuring at least
five or six inches in diameter. These satin
straw pompons. which are a feature of the
seasons trimming, are soft as the cut
ostrich pompon which they copy and are
said to be equally as durable.
Another eccentrieity of the season is a
hat built entirely of ribbon. The frames of
these hats are built of wire wound with
very fine ribbon to match in color heavier
ribbon which is worked in and out of the
frame very much like raffia straw work.
The effect az whole is that of a compact
lattice work The trimming is generally
large pompons built of ribbon in the same
tone, with long ends and loops for fasten-
ing under the chin or on the left side.
These hats are among the picturesque nov
elites intended principally for bridal parties
and other fancy dress functions.