The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-05-11


 low, and showed a guimpe of all over Valenciennes. The puffed sleeves were gathered at the elbow with crushsd bands of pale blue satin ribbon. and there was a girdle and sash of the same ribbon.
 There is no end to the models for short boleros. The bolerO is garment which lends itself to variations without losing any of it's distinctive character. Bolero suits are not limited to cloth and silk. All fabrics from linsn to lace are used. y
 A striking gown of lightweight, am Der broadcloth had a waist which showed a decided departure from the ordinary bolero. It was in effect sur prise crossed in the back, but open to- the girdle in front. The waist was left open under the arms, and the sleeves were short full ruff1es trimmed with braid applications, and finished with al narrow box plating. The surpliceI pieces were tucked on the shoulder and outlined with black fancy braid. Braid applications trimmed the front pieces. The skirt was in eleven gores. and was slightly fulled around the waist. Two rows of marrow box plating, edged with braid trimmed the skirt. Consid- erabls space as left between the plait- ings and this space, as well as that above the plaitings was trimmed with braid applications. .-E
 Many of the .bretelle suits are fur
 nfshed also with boleros, making them
 more appropriate for street wear. A
 green shepherds check taffeta had a
 full-plaited skirt, trimmed from the
 waist halfway down the skirt with stitched bands of the silk in graduated
 widths. The bretelles were in fancy shapes and the blouse worn was white handkerchief, linen. The bolero was
 made with one broad box plait in the
 back and two broad side plaits, and
 was shorter in the back than in the
 front. It was trimmed with silk
 covered buttons and simulated button-
 holes. A wide collar of embroidered
 linen was worn over the bolero collar.
 Of course, there are plenty of shirt
 waist suits, but they are. no longer really smart. The sbirt-waist suit in wash materials, and especially in linen, will continue in favor this year, and very likely much longer. The wash materials suitable for simple tub
 gowns are unusually handsome this spring. Among the best are the wash able voiles, plain and figured which were being sold this week as low as eighteen cents the yard. The small
 checks were especially noted. Another fotf kl,<1 cotton taffeta. This comes in very i good designs, checks, stripes, plaids, { and figures. The prices are from l twenty-five cents the yard upward Two beautiful plaids in tartan coIors were marked thirty cents. Nothing prettier
 for children's gowns could be desired. i There are at least dozen charming cottons suitable for simple dresses.
 | The dimities. organdies, lawns and
 expensive cottons are as lovely as ever. i The fashion of providing several colored ] silk slips to wear under thin gowns is very much in vogue again. It is a de- : cided help to women who must have a { great many changes A certain young 1 woman whose income is much lower i than her social position, went through a
 gay season with three silk slips, pink, I pale blue. and maize color, and five I thin gowns. One of the gowns was . linen lawn with a little black figure. She wore it over each of the slips in
 turn, with sashes and girdles to match the lining color. Another gown was 1 white organdie. and was worn over the maize slip or over a lawn lining. The 1 three other gowns were thin cottons one white organdie with large pink and red flowers; another a blue swiss with l black dots, trimmed with narrow black lace insertion, and the third was a i pineapple cloth with a pale blue line ot
 silk. This was Hear the color of the maize lining, and was worn over either 1 that slip or the blue one.
 A lovely finish to lowered organdie gown is a sash of wide lowered ribbon with a knotted fringe Of heavy white silk. These ribbons may be had te quite closely match the organdies
 Sashes are very much in fashion just
 now, but they are not the old-timt
 sashes to tie around the waist. The belt part is a fitted and boned girdle and the sash ends are fastened on al the back, nearly always without any I bow. Occasionally one. sees fla rosette where the ends are attached,
 | A novelty which promises to become ,i almost too popular are the coat sets O I handmade and embroidered collar ant \ cuffs to be worn on cloth or silk Etons T bolleros and other coats. They arr 1 made in the finest material as yet, am are very expensiv, but they will soonel or later be copied in cheaper nlateril and will become common.
 With plain white linen gowns or witt \ linen shirtwaists and white skirts, tn, embroidered linen crush belts will b preferred to all others. The belts ar, . fastened with flat buckles, large ant small. of brass, pearl, or silver. Tn 2 belt is such an invariable part of tn
 wardrobe, year in and year out, that little extravaganza in the matter Q buckles, which may serve Cor years oi successive belts, is to be allowed. Itsi : almost an economy to own one or 'tw r handsome buckles. An old silve buckle set with routh stones, tametEysi topaz, beryl, Iapis, or the lovely perido' will give the simplest gown distinction The stones need not be fiawless, and o 5 dinary are better if uncut. The crafts men have made some exquisite buckle z of copper silver and gold. Consider < ] ing their healIty and workmanshiI