The Topeka state journal., 1905-12-06

jungle. The shade beloved Of Parisians
just now is a vivid crushed raspberry.
In velvet this tone is glorious. A gown
of raspberry, to be effective, should be
kept In several tones of the same shade.
For instance, an afternoon cloth coat
of this color will have collars and cuffs
of terra Gotta. and the skirt and bodice
will be trimmed with eyelet embroidery
of the cloth. The only relieving note is
found in a ehemisette and collar of
ecru lace. Net dresses for evening
functions are wonderfully swagger in
this shade when trimmed with innum-
erable rows of velvet ribbon. The
charm of a crushed raspberry gown is
that one does not meet it at every cor
ner, so there is an exclusiveness about
it that is very attractive. One sees a
handsome costume of it probably at
swell restaurant during the dinner hour
and in the stall at the theater.
The death the other day of Augustus
Person. the inventor of the hoop skirt,
has recalled this fashionable torture to
when a young man was employed in
famous dressmaking establishment in
Paris during the early days of the en-
Dire, and his "jupe a cerceaux'' became
the vogue, which to this day has not
been forgotten by the satirists. Each
season in Paris at the debut of the win
ter there are rumors of the return OK
the crinoline, causing a curious antici
patton from those who watch for the
first flights of the couturiere's genius.
It may be safely accepted as a fact that
owing to the energetic life women now
lead they viii never tolerate such an
ineonvenient style of dress. Quite as
much material is used for a gown now
as when the hoop skirt was fashionable.
but the fabrics are SO soft in texture
that the eIinging draperies women love
to wear are not a drag upon them. A
circlet of very supple whalebOne is
used around the bottom of evening
gowns, which has the effect of making
the bottom fuIlness stand out This is
necessary for the frou at the hem of
skirts that are close fitting around the
hips We did, however, have q little
crinoline scare not long ago, when the
best couturieres began putting in the
hens of their skirts a fine canvas to
hold out the plain foot lines that are
so smart this winter. And in con-
nection with skirts many Of the jupes
have absolutely no trimming, with the
possible exception of the circular model,
which is finished with an eight inch
fold of the material applied on the
straight and stitched top and bottom
/ These folds give weight to the skirt ana
prevent in a measure the hopeless habit
this model has of sagging at the sides.
Plaid circular skirts are exceedingly
attractive when trimmed with rows OF
velvet ribbon to the knees. And by the
way, this pattern is an easy. one for
the plaid jupe as it obviafes the awk-
ward necessity Of matching. The best
models are stiH unlined, but drop
skirt is sometimes sewed in at the waist
with the outer material. Skirts with
inverted box plaits two or three inches
wide and stitched fve inches from the
belt have taken the place OF the plated
models Of last year. which though still
to be found in the shops are not first
style.
There is a pretty skirt with cireu-
lar top, having fan shaped plafts let in
at the knees and headed with fancy
tab.
A Greeian skirt is a stunning design
for evening gowns made with a eircu~
lar foundation usually cut very long.
/ over this is a circular drapery lifted
high on the left side and sweeping out
/ into train at the back The edge OF
this drapery has a Greek key design in
gold cord. The bodice is e short waist
ed, draped affair with belt Of gold
embroidery.
CATHERINE TALBOT.