The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-16

LOHN NOuN VI NNNNehN
Difference in the Coat IAnes-The IAttie
noIerO In Favor Agaln-The Cut Of the
ChemiSette Approaching the Proper
lions OF ManIa--The Lingerie Blouses
casually definite fact IL being evolved
brofa.Sthe chaoI Of prophecy concerning
the Rsons modes, but there are stll
points concerning which the deyotees OF
fashion are dubious, There, for instance,
Is the sleeve.
A host OF women have been keeping
seamstresses busy turning last years
sleeves upside down, after the recipe ad-
vanced by all the fashion made easy authoTi-
ties. Dressmakers have been making the
sleeves Of new frooks with great fulness
at the top and with puifs approaching
the old time sleeve burlesque.
And now one hear, from good authority
that in Paris the early tendency toward
exaggerated sleeve fitness at the shoulder
line has boon chocRsd, thai there has been
a reaction and that, while widely bouhant
sleeve pulls are It'll seen In the realm OF
tAe ready made and often duplicated gar
ments. tho lgir-. creations turned out by
the greatest makers ind worn by the most
fastidious and authoritative Of Partisan
eIegdHtes have sleeves OF modest dimeD-
sions, and in many cases qyite clinging.
That the elbow sleeve and the sleeve
with long close cufT are established for
the season no one questions, and that
broader shoulder line than that Of last
year is accepted Is also a definite fact,
but the fear that we we're on the way to
tha,once popular Rico. nonstrosities seems
to have been without grounds and those
hardy ones who pushed forward auda-
ciously along the indicated path must needs
retrace their steps if they would be in the
height of the mode.
A New York woman, exceedingly oanny
IN matters Of fashion and always in step
with Partisan modes, went abroad last
month 20 obtain a summer outfit In Paris
and enjoy May and June in London.
letter from her, which has just been re-
osived, Is overrun with exclamation points
and surprise and Is devoted almost entirely
20 the absorbing topic Of clothes.
'One Is completely bewildsred by the
confusion Of ideas and verdicts, she writes,
'and am coming 70 the conclusion that
the only thing 20 do is 10 choose one Of the
big dressmakers, swallow his laws whole,
and have sublime faith In his infallibnity.
no matter how widely other great dress
makers may differ with him.
'Ofooourse there are ceTHln things upon
which all agree. The stuhs and trimmings
generally accepted here are those shown
in New York, and the closed bodice, higher
bust line, elbow sleeve, full skirts fitted
round the hips. lace and lingerie guimpes
and q great many other features Of the new
frocks are no surprise TO me here, because
had grown accustomed To them at home.
my ideas on sleeves have been turned
topsy turvy. ] supposed no one could be
saved without a gigot silhouette, and here
I find half the women who are famed for
their clothes sporting close sleeves to the
elbow long, close, wrinllsd sleeves Of lace
or other sheer stun, sleeves rather long on
the shoulder and with caps or some other
arrangement that gives a suggestion Of q
droop
The lovely sheer little blouses as often
as not have fine vertical tucking on the
aleeveswhere they are set into the armbo le
% that thy lie comparatively nat for a short
way below the shoulder line, though, Of
course, the fulness above the wrist Is gone
and whatever fulness there Is usually ends
at the elbow above a long close cuff, or
without any Gun in q general way the
full top and elbow length or close clf Is
the thing, but don't emphasize the fulness
OF - in for extreme shoulder breadth,
and, II a close fitting or moUsquetaire slee We
Is more becoming to you, wear 1t, You'll
be in company with some OF the SWEETEST
women here, though don't know how IL
viii be in New York
There was other first hand informa ton
in the htter-mention Of an increasing
movement In dressy toiettes toward skirts
with a little train and only moderate length
at sides and front enthusiasm over the
pFinoesse gowns Of lingerie materials,
ees.atio description Of lingerie toilettes
en- suite-frock, coat, hat, parasol, all Of
batiste or linen. embroidered In open Wor X
and trimmed with valenoiennes. Praise
Of the circular walking skirt, Of the new
cashmerss, OF the shot silks, Of the Louis XIV.
coats IN silk 10 be worn with sheer skirts
but these are all things concerning which
We have already said much.
The princesse gown has not yet attained
the vogue here which II Is enjoying In Paris
and the mode Is never likely 10 become
common, because OF the difhculti~s con-