The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-03-05

small lnteflhc1ng f1nRh, ono ernDTOlueIeu
In white silk. ono in gold thread. This
came interlaoing ring design, only in black
and gold, Is successfully used. too, upon
plain dark blue vole. and another dark
blue wolfe has large interlacing rings, an
inch and half in diameter one in the
shade OF the blue material the other in a
dark dun green.
Exceedingly fine stripes Of light blue
and white, French rose and white, light
orange and white, &c, are fresh and dainty
In yelling; and, indeed, although there
has been much talk of a decline in the popu-
larity Of theToiIe class Of fabrics, the manu-,
facturers have evidently felt no appre-
hension on the subject, and have expended
much Of their effort upon the new voiles.
delightful little frook in one of the finely
checked voiles, trimmed in taffeta with
little buttons and simulated eyelets, the
whole in willow green and white, Is among
the outs this week and would ba an easy
model for the home dressmaker.
The vogue OF the surplice bodice lines
Is apparent in everything from street frock
10 evening gown. The mode Is M only
pretty and becoming, but within the scope
| Of this uninspired seaInstress.
Surplice folds are, as rule. easily ar
ranged; and If the Y-shaped opening IL
! to be filed by plastron, such a plastron
is more easily fitted and made than a round
g,iimpe. In the surplice evening bodice.
the V opening, if sloping in a graceful line
| from shoulders to bust, Is usually too low,
and this is remedied by little tucker Of
lace or tulle or mousseline, visible only
across the front.
The evening gown sketched hero Illus
trates this point and Is a good model for
silk. satin, or pc or any material having
body and draping qualities, though not a
youthful gown, The full panels Of net
set in the skirt bottom with two cocardes
trimming each panel, give graceful full
ness, and this idea Is Of value in making
over skirt not full enough around the
bottom for modishness.
And this brings us back to our starting
point-the skirt
While the street skirt is perhaps. less
full than it promised to be, and has dis
carcied fussiness in favor Of plainness and
long lines, the n Ger wash frocks and the
dressy frocks in soft light weight material
show founces and horizontal trimmings
quite as often, If not oftener, than plain
vert lcal lines.
There are fewer Of the little ruches than
there were last season, but the bouillonee
holds it's prestige. and one still sees the silk
covered cords, the piping and the shirrings.
The soft, fun skirts, unlike the street
skirts, are often shirred into the waistband.
falling free below, but, on the other hand,
there are many models with shallow hip
yoke Of shirring or fine plaits Even among
the sheer skirts one frequently notes an
absence of bottom trimming or a bottom
trimming only Of nuns plaits or OF some
fat band or inset band; but the fine lace or
embroidery houncings and plain founces
trimmed with lace, tucks. DC, are distinctly
popular.
Often, however, the 1ounoes AFRO not
continued across the front breadth. tiht
breadth being left plain, or trimmed YER
ticaly, or arranged in pctticoat fashion.
One. two or three hounces are used. the lower
sometimes set on to the edge OF the upper
with shirring or tuoking so that the several
houncings make in reality but one deep
founoe, much fuller at bottom than at top
Such an arran cement is ilust rated among
the frocks in tho large group. Tho full
embroidery sleeve Of this model. falling over
the elbow puff of plain batiste, is pretty
and simple sleeve design for a lingerie
frook-
The skirt OF the wash frock not intended
for morning wear Ia OF the round length, |
and majority OF the house frooks and the |
youthful dinner and evening frocks are Of |
this length but formal evening gowns for
older women often ino,ine toward the longer
and narrower train. This is, of course,
true Of the prinoesse gown. which
il very modish and does not lend itself to
the round skirt.
For morning STREET venr. the skirt clears;
but although an effort has been made to
shorten the skirt Of the dressy afternoon
street and visiting frock TO walking bcngth.