Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-06
land Embroidered cinet1 Gowns

~ has been stated two or three times
2 that hand-embroidered linen gowns were
a becoming so extremely popular that they
would soon 90 out of fashion-that they
were no longer distinctive and smart. Con-
sequeHtly there has been question in the
minds Of some few individuals to wheth-
or these exquisite gowns were really worth
the money asked for them. That they are
fashionable. that they are smart and that
they viii continue to be so is emphatically
true. for in themselves they are so beaut-
full and the work IS so perfect, and after all
there is nothing to take their place that
has Vet been shown 10 an eXpectant public.
Thu only marvel is that there can be SO
many different designs and so many differ
eut patterus-destp for making up the
gowns and patterns of embroidery.
Lace and embroidery are combined on
the same gown with excellent effect the
Es.yy Irish lace and the English cmbroid-
cry combining Ch4rminsly. The Nalen-
cIeUucs also looks well with the oren-work
effect of the ali-over English embroidery.
one of the most fascinating gowns of the
season that has been turned out is made of
liz, aIi-uver urcu work embroidery in a
n-o-e or less conventional pattern. The
SIX II has four rouuCes the upper one being
very much deeper than the others. Each
j. flushed IN a scaIioped edge. the edge out
lined with narrow Nalenciennes.
Tie dOuuCes are put on In pleats instead
Of gathers The upper one, pleated over
tn" hips. has CntredeuX of Nalencennes ar
ranged in most becoming lines, those in
front being considerably longer than those
across the back. The shape OF the skirt Is
very graceful and becoming, but 1t is much
longer than many of the skirts that we
have seen, for it touches the ground in
front and at the sides.
Tho waist is in jacket effect and follows
out the idea OF the skirt to perfection, the
three jackets carrying out the plan of the
fluurCes on the skirt. Each jacket is fin
ishod in pointed scalops outlined with
Nalenticnnes edge The sleeves are charm
irgIy dainty, with bows of lace and also
with the three little fiounces. There is a
chemisette of lawn most heavily emhrold-
cred. and deep watstbaud or girdle OF
pale rose pink taffeta.
The gown IS made up separate from the
lining, that If desired a Colored lining
can he worn, or the effect can be all white
The sleeves are eXaggeratedly short, not
reaching even TO the elbow, and are fairly
large at the top, but fit rather closer to the
arm above the elbow. This IS a becoming
shape and style, for 1t gives breadth to the
shoulders and at the same time does not
hide the waist line, as do the larger, longer
sleeves that have been very fashionable I'M
til this time.
All kinds Of embroidered linens are fash
ion lie and very smart. both the heavy and
liEht We ght being in great demand. 1t is
said that with couple of expensive linen
COS tunes a woman can be most inexpen-
[Ne3E EoWued this year. provided she has
pl-.ty of smart lingerie blouses to wear
with them. These linen costumes must
needs, however he made by the most ex-
peusive tailors to insure the proper cut and
-.t--o say the economically minded indi-
viGuals-and one costume must be elabOr-
ate'y braided.
The simple littIe lingerie blouses must
also he on the expensive order, but late in
the summer it IS possible to procure rare
bargains for, say, forty or fifty dollars
apiece. At first sight it would not appear
Is though this style Of dress We're so eco
nCuical, but the idea is that with two such
gowns and plenty of bleuses a woman can
look we'll enough turned out for a two or
three weeks stay anywhere without haV-
ing several of the very expensive lingerie
e WINS that this year are so extremely at.
tIECtive and becoming.
The long coat made up in linen has be-
come so universally popular that it is no
longer distinctive, but there IS a beauty
about the perfection Of cut and fit that has
been attained to that certainly adds a
great dead of charm to such a fashion: and
embroidery on the material are most at
tcaCt!Ve.
y model that has been extremely popu-
lar is made with quite a long skirt trim
med with a band Of heavy embroidery and
with some bias folds Of linen as well. The
coat is on the Louis XIV order and the
lines ara exquisite. 1t has a mass of
heavy hand embroidery. but is really sim
pie in design. The blouse to wear with
this is of lace, preferably Falenciennes or
NIecuIlu. and Is finished in front with
full iahot and at the wrist with ruffles that
show below the coat sleeve. In fact, this is
Louis XIV fashion.
Of these linen boy "a eet