Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-01-21
Ill., " q


her. The modern girl has struck out in a
hne of her own in many things, not the
least OF which is in her clothes.
Garnitures and sprays of flowers and
1enage are used to freshen up old lace or
net frocks A great deal of embroidery
and gold and silver lace is employed on
evening gowns here in Paris.
AS to cloth gowns there Is a great de-
m&nd for white cloth walking costumes as
the season advances. These white gowns
are often effectually edged with sable or
mink. Warm colors are also in favor.
one OF the smartest models l have seen
was a redingote of red cloth inset about
the hips and back with tucked silk to
match. The front was surplfce effect
with a large square collar of ermine at the
neck, the coat opening In triangular effect
over red cloth skirt. The present tight
fitting style of dress, of which the red
ingote forms a part, has altered the shape
of the corset considerably 1t Is much
longer in the back than formerly and high
er in the bust. The waist is also smaller
But, with these exceptions, the type Of
stays remains about the same.
The Three-Quarter Coat.
The three-quarter coat, which has given
way to fur during the midwinter weather,
shows signs of returning with the spring
With the popularity of the three-quarter
coat the short skirt has necessarily disap-
peared. The most graceful woman in Paris
could not wear the two together with any
degree of elegance. In the theater the
cloak is generally worn during the entire
evening. 1t has consequently gained in i'm
portance, while the evening dress has lost
A charming example of the theater coat is
carried out in pale green oriental satin,
trimmed with mosS-green velvet, ermine and
guipure. The lining is of quilted ivory
satin, and billowy frills of ivory chiffon
supply warmth in the sleeves. This model
would also look we'll in soft white satin and
Zenana Is very comfortable lining and
possesses many virtues which satin does
not. I have seen also lovely carriage
wrap of pale fawn-colored CLOTH decorated
with crocheted buttons and silk tassels.
The back hangs straight, and the belt which
holds the front Is fastened to the seam be-
meath the arms. 1t has a small waistcoat
of red cloth embroidered with fawn-colored
silk braid.
Cloth, Taffeta and Lace.
A costume in gray cloth trimmed with
taffeta has a yoke Of Irish lace fastened
with tiny bows Of black velvet. The full
puffed sleeves have narrow frills of the tat
feta on their hens. The hat worn with this
is gray felt. with a drawn gray velvet
crown. trimmed with ostrich feather
shading from gray to pale blue.
The millinery of the present has many dis
tinguishing features. 1t is narrow, usually
higher at one side of the brim than the
other. and generally trimmed with ostrich
feathers. There is a decided revival of the
popularity of the always-becoming black
hat. While ostrich feathers are by far the
most popular, one sees any quantity of
wings breasts and plumes, which, the mil
liners tell us, are manufactured from pigeon
feathers and from other birds which are
used for food. Dark and light gray, white
and pale-colored pigeon wings are much en-
ployed. and these can also be dyed or tinged
to any required shade. The combination of
fur and lace is even more marked this win
ter than ever Handsome transparent lace
hats on wire foundations are edged with fur
and trimmed with tails and are worn with
only the handsomest gowns.
A garment which is a cross between the
bolero and the old dolman hangs straight
from the shoulders to the waist and has
pointed sleeves. When made in velvet this
looks well trimmed with fiat braids.
An effective way to line a big sable cape
is with white satin hemmed with a pompa-
dour ribbon of the best quality. Such a
finish Is desirable for both day and evening
wear. Suitable gal1oons and ribbons may
be bought anywhere, and l would recon-
mend this as method of making last
years Innings look as If dated 1906.
Peasant Laces.
Nowhere are Irish laces more appreciated
than in France. Some of the very loveliest
of the Louis XVI gowns have bertha
draped with point made by the peasants in
the west of Ireland. Our leading coutu-
rieres prefer the coarse makes. They are
so effective on soft fabrics, such as crepe
de chine, silks and satins, also on linons de
sole and fine French lawnsl / have seen a