Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-08
ALL YOUNG CHAPERONS
None Seem Middle Aged or
White-Haired Now.
CUSTOMS CH AN GED
IN HER DAINTY FRoCKS SHE
WEARS RATHER RICH EFFECTS.
While Black, Relieved With Cream,
Not Dead White Lace, is
Also Popular.
CUSTOMS CHAN G ED

The rniddle-aged and the white-haired
woman finds herself robbed of a vocation
this summer She is no longer In demand
as q chaperon on hot-weather excursions,
but Is permitted to lounge comfortably on
piazza or In beach pavilion. while her
place with the yachting party. the pic
nickers or the haunt to the clubhouse is
usurped by some young matron whose we'd
ding ring has scarce fitted into its place.
The bride of two months the matron
of two years must bear in mind however.
that she is In, but not of, the circle over
which she presides That Is, both her gown
ing and her bearing must suggest the chap
eron, and she must sacrifice certain giriish
suggestions In dress on the altar of her
newly acquired duties.
For instance, the young people are pre-
pairing for an afternoon jaunt. The girls
don pleated skirts and loose belted coats of
mohair, serge, linen, canvas or duck, with
sailor hats set at almost any becoming
angle The chaperon may look at them
with envy. but she dons garments built on
tailored lines. She wears a redingote
bolero with a vest on snug fitting lines. In
stead of jaunty sailor she sets upon her
we'll groomed locks one OF the tilted hats
banked with flowers in the back, crowned
with blossoms and set off by perky bows
of stiff ribbon.
The vest becomes more and more in evil
dence the season advances, and 1t Is
often the soft fluffy touch in otherwise
tailored suit.
A beautiful gown for a young matron
Is a Parma violet wolfe in sheer weave. The
skirt, which has just a suggestion of
train to give dignity to the wearer, is pleat-
ed into the waist band and finished with
three rows OF self-toned braid, showing
discs and scallops The Elton Jacket is
djStinCtly Quaint bpf0p Shfrrpd from the
shoulder arm and underarm seams to
point about three inches from the center
and then finished with the same braid
used on the skirt. Set into this Is a tri-
angular double breasted vest of brocaded
satin showing Parma vioIets on a white
ground and edged with a tiny braid woven
in gold, white and violet. The vest is held
in place by single gorgeous button hand
painted to match. Three-quarter sleeves
are shirred to match the jacket and finish
ed with a leg-o'-mutton puff at the shout
der. Just below the elbow is a fall of rose
pompadour lace over a brocaded cuff to
match the vest. With this is worn
blouse of all-over lace, the top of the col
lar finished with a fold of Parma colored
velvet and a girdle of the same velvet
The hat Is a fine Milan straw, matching in
tone the cloth Of the dress and trimmed
with pale violets and ribbon to match.
A Striking Effect
Another striking redingote to be worn
with q checked wolfe, showing green and
white, is made of tea green taffetas trim
med with graduated boulliones of the silk.
velvet revers. lace ruffies and fancy but
tons. The coat Is slightly longer In the back
than In the front being cut in slashes that
reach from the hem almost to the waist
line These slashes are outlined by the
boulliones very deep around the bottou
and coming to a mere point at the head OF
each seam. The sleeves come ONLY to tha
elbow and are shirred. mousauetaire fash
ion. The turnback cuffs and the revers are
slasned to match the bottom of the red
lngote, and are made OF velvert with mar
row boulliones of the silk as an edgine
deep fail of lace finishes the sleeve and the
vest is of chiffon overlaid with creamy
lace. '
Parma violet raspberry red and eIec+r;o
blue are colors which seem to appeal to the
chaperon of 1905, but black and white Is a
combination which has by no means lost its
popularity Stunning afternoon gowns are
shown In black crepe de chine or mousse
line with ravshng yokes or dickies and be1r
sleeves of cream-colored lace. In fact
cream color has rather superseded dead
white in the selection of laces
Lace coats are worn by those who can sf-
ford this luxury A clever needlewoman
has just finished a beautiful lace coat for
wear over silk frocks. 1t was an inexpen-
sive all-over with a ford rose pattern
Very carefully she cut her pattern so that
roses came down the front and around the
bottom of the coat. These she whipped to
prevent raveling, and sewed under them
tiny ruchings of pale mauve mousseline
The pattern proper was marked by medal
lion effects, and each one of these medal
lions she outlined with very fine double
ruchings of the mousseline. Then she made
a girdle of the same, we'll bound and set off
by rhinestone buttons. A tiny vest OF the
shirred mousseline finished the front and
the elbow sleeves had double ruffles of the
same material.
linn oto
wide range from which. to select Plumetts
is one of the new sheer wash fabrics, and
comes in a dozen dainty guises. 1t Is finer