davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25

along the tops. They are full. with
cuffs outlined BY curved and straight
bands. hemstitched into the materfa,
like inserting. Buttons trim The Iower
part, and the wrist is finished with n
Ecnlstitched fold
Perhaps one of the most seryieea BILE
of materials for dressy gowns Is cream
coiored and white nuns yelling. II
washes We'll and always looks soft and
becoming II can be made I'D with \
sweet sixteen" simplicity. or In the
disnified folds and lines suitable TO a
natron with hair of about the color of
the gown
Figure { illustrates smart gown made
of nuns yelling. The material is loose
ly draped over fitted bodice lining of
white SILK. the loose fronts curving back
In q bolero and disclosing d dainty lit
tie vest of lingerie. These bolero fronts
are pleated To the underarm seam just
above the belt, and are trimmed with a
border of folds. The yoke of lingerie is
finisled with round collar of embrol-
dered batiste edged with three knife
pleated ruff1es OF lingerie, A band of
color Is introduced Under the top of the
collar. showing above it in 4 piping and
through it in an effective line of sub
dued tint Bows of the same satfn-or
velvet, if that is preferred trim the
front
The loose back of the bodice has gath
ers at the top and bottom. toward the
center, and has ruftfes of embroidery
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25
When the Wrap Is Featured.

When the wrap is ii separate article
of attire and in contrasting color
from that of the dress worn with it, 1t
is imperative that the wrap become the
feature of the costume. 1t should SO
command attention that ore would
scarcely be able to teil~whlt else was
worn with it, The garment should be
distinct in cut. color and trimming-a
vivid note in the costume. AMI the sec
ondary note to it should DE the hat
The dress, I'm this case. becomes a thing
of small moment. mere pale color
scheme upon which Is wrought out IA
wonderful color desig:'.
Rich, strong colorsE are chosen for
such wraps. and tEey are cut in loose
peculiar styles and made up with a
strong note of Individuality everywhere
apparent il them Sometimes they are
OF wonderful Oriental embroideries and
Saada in Chinese or Japanese style, with
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25

Tor making up sucn gowns. Stripes are
becoming more end more popular and
are quite relief after the run of
checks which we have had for so long.
Nut that is not saying that checks are
not still in vogue, only fancy turns TO
the less common styles OF checks and
those which are SO pronounced that few
women can wear them without looking
bizarre.
Pique is a material which has Gene
INTO vogue again, together with some
linens Of the heavier sort used especial-
~ for simple gowns and for those made
IN princess style. where some weight
is desirable in the material and where
the gown fits that such materials
can be worn without any clumsy full
ness in the skirts.
Such gown is shown in figure A n
very handsome and elaborate gown Of
checked white pique cornbiyied with
very heavy embroidery and lace. The
gown is q skin-tight princess, made with
panel down the back, from the neck
TO below the hip line. This panel is
outlined by heavy embroidery. in a
large, raised pattern. done upon box
pleats- The embroidery carries out a
design of grapes, with vines and leaves,
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25
THE OUTING
SUMNER ROOM"

~ HE woman VINO has TO stay in
town all summer is mighty
fortunate individual if she hap
pens to have a back porch on
the second floor of her house
That porch should be turned into an
outdoor room, and used as the family
living room. Things can be left there
with comparative safety. unlike the
usual downstairs front porch: and it is
possible too TO have it almost as pri-
Vate a room
Fit it up as comfortably as you can
spread Il rug down-the kind sudden
shower can't hurt: swing a hammock
one corner. and have things so conven-
iently arranged that it is very little
trouble to get any sort OF cooling drink
ready at a few moments notice.
OF course. you want porch screens,
which. fortunately can be had az
trifiing cost; and a steamer chair is a
most comfortable sort of affair to
lounge the most heated part of the day
away in
Have plants about. even if you have a
prejudice against combining growing
things In pots and boxes. But It's bet
ter TO have them that way than to miss
the little artistic touch they give 10 The
ttniest OF porcheS. And have vines
GROWN \up the post-vines that bloom,
If you can, although any kind is good.
Wistaria makes a splendid leafY porch
screen al summer. and Will grow up
from The ground below, and in spring IT
frames an ideal corner with its droop-
ing Japanese blossoms and its delicious
perfume. Honeysuckie blooms all sum-
mer; and the climbing roses. with their
clusters of red or plnk-tinted blossoms.
tiums grow in the most barren OF soil.
in the most cramped quarters, and
bloom again and again, gorgeous orange
and yellow and maroon flowers.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25

think that linen buttens-eitner plain
or embroidered-would be even smart
err than pearl in such a gown.
The folds curve downward in the CEN
ter and are put on in graduated sizes,
increasing in width as they near the
bottom
The material has small oper embreid-
cred figures all over it, and the skirt
is cut in the popular circular style 1t
is made to fit at the top by means of
narrow sloping tucks from the belt TO
the hips, and it is given a panel effect
on the sides by an arrangement of
folds These are put on in two groups
of three folds each. each group being
uniform in size with the three narrow
er folds in the upper group.
A similar panel effect Is made in the
back, but here there are five folds.
their own width apart, in the upper
group and three very vide folds at the
bottom. It is astonishing how elabor-
ate this simple arrangement of bias
folds can make skirs
The bodice is made with a fitted lin
ing, to which it is sewed loosely. In
the back is a panel made of pin tucks.
and in the front a similar lattice is
traversed by curved bands of linen
hemstitched on
TWO curved tabs, formed of these
bands, are embroidered in designs
wrought in blues and browns The
lower portion of the bodice is of the
embroidered all-over linen, like the
skirt, crossed by curved linen bands SO
arranged as to give DoIero effect. Two
rows of pearl buttons are put on down
the frons, and blue ehangeabie silk is
knotted as the neck and looped in and
out down the front
The deep turned-down collar is eIab-
Grated with d hemstitched fold and with
embroidery in front. The back has tabs
in the lower portion, in which are
worked out peacock eyes in wonderful
shades of blue. making a very striking
coloring is carried throughout the en-
broidered designs q
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25

work or English eyelet embroidery, fin
ished off with friIls and fiounces OF
lace. When combined with lace in the
coat itself, II becomes even more desir-
aEle, and coats made of lingerie and
lace are also in the height of popularity.
One asks Of what use these coats are
rs wraps. and TO them / say that the
light covering is usually ali that is
necessary during summer. IT is thin.
but ii affords a slight warmth over the
even thinner bodice OF the gown, and
so IL becomes serviceable-as such
things go. It can never be serviceab bic
to women who are not rich enough to
have them made properly and KEPT in
a dazzling state OF cleanliness. Parasols
carried with these wraps are usually of
the same sort OF lace or embroidery.
and the hat harSnonizes. too. often be-
ing made of the same materials
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25
Smart Sleeves Not Bouffant.

These are pulled and finished below
| the elbow with a cuff of embroidery
edged with a narrow ruff7e of lingerie.
They are gathered to the armhole at
the top, and are only moderately fun, as
smart sleeves are no longer bouffant in
| appearance
The full skirt is gathered three times
around the top below the belt, just
enough Co make it set well over the hips
and fall in soft, even folds to the bot
tom. Folds of graduated sizes trim the
skirt above the hem, which is of me-
diurn size, and the upper fold is trin-
med with straps arranged in a simple
but chic design.
A silk drop skirt, much beruffied 50
as to make the soft yelling stand out.
Is worn with this gown, although it is
not necessity. 1t is even more smart
to have very fancy and friliy petticoat
| of white wash materials: but in this
case it must set perfectly under the
dress skirt.
Figure d shows fetching linen coat
| for wear out of doors, or over an after
noon gown. 1t is of heavy white linen
made in three-quarter length and fin
! ished with hem over an inch wide
all around. Inside the hem is a very
wide border of handsome lace. 1t is
important that the quality of the lace
should be suitable to the material. and
Irish lace IS a good deal used with linen
The coat is tucked from the belt to the
hip, and the embroidered belt, which is
caught TO tt e coat in the hack, is fas-
tened in fro Mt. One may wear any
handsome, 81 liable buckle il, this belt
or merely lap over the ends
A panel of lace is set in the back
and extends 10 over TIE belt upon the
back of the coat IL a curved piece 1t
is fastened at the waist line with big
lace crochet and knorted buttons
A deep sailor collar of tucked linen
is finished with a hesa and trimmed
inside the hem with u wide border of
lace overseamed to one of guipure, IN
which the design is carried out in linen
embroidered down upor fiiet net and
trimmed with lace and knob buttons
The coat faStenS in front with four
big lace buttons and the open Y at the
neck shows the pretty little eaemiSette
worn with the dress bodice.
The sleeve of this smart coat is
gathered at the top and made with a
lace border around the bottom. and up
each side of the back 10 point above
the elbow. 1t is finished with hem
TO correspond with the finish Of the rest
of the coat edges.
Three tuckS are set across the front Of
the sleeve at the bottom, which gives
the desired fuIInSss at the back. The
neck is finished off with a fold that
continues in the hem down the coat
frontc
4 coat of this kind i. practically in
destructible-as recomnCn datiop some
times, but by no means u necessity in
q smart garment which never has an
opportunity Of becoming worn out.
JOSEFA WILSON OSBORN.
Copyright 1905. w r. Hearsts
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25

both above ard below the belt IN pin
tucks to make it fit closely to the
figure.
OF course a woman must not be
ashamed of her figure if she would wear
such gown successfully.
The sleeves are gathered at the top
and along the front seam To a plain
under-arm piece. The back of the
sleeve is tucked half way across both
at and above the elbow. ard is then
finished with deep cuff of embroidery
edged with lace. AS the princess comes
IN an open point a. the throat it is
worn with chemisette. fimy little
lace thing which adds u touch of soft
ness to a costume more handsome than
delicate in appearance.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25
Smart Linen Buttons.

Linen is effectively made up along
much the same lines and is quite as
smart. but pongees. -de-eh;nes and
embroidered batiste require a some
what different treatment below the belt
as they are too soft to Gtand as Scanty
a cut as one uses in neavy linens and
piques. I.
An example of smart gown made
of heavy linen is shown in Figure B.
This is of natural linen color and
has eight bias folds across the front
gore, hemedstitched along the tops
piped along the bottoms and finished
with pearl buttons in each point ]
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25

such slight notifications as are popu-
lar here. wrap of this sort is an
economy, for 1T may be used in connec~
ton with number of gowns of the
simple, inconspicuous sort.
Elaborate wraps Of white embroidery
and lace are also among the snartest
things which the season offers, but
tlaet'e are usually seen with a white
gown of corresponding material, but
quiet in cut and simple in make. so as
rot 10 detract from the eeauty of the
coat.
Such coats are often made entirely Of
openWork embroidery in Italian cut
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25

and a bunch of grapes is set in the
middle of the neck Panels of heavy
embroidery, with points. decorate the
front, where are alao revers OF the en-
broidery. Narrow lace of an open pat
tern with tatting effect is used to
trim the front of the bodice portion and
the skirt has a plain front panel and
untrimmed hem at the bottom
The princess portion of the dress is
made in what was at one time known
as the Gabrielle style" 1t only reaches
to a little above the hem of the un-
derdress and opens all the way up the
front A wide border of embroidery
decorates it all around. the design being
in raised punches of grapes, apples, and
other fruit. A belt of plated satin is
worn with this garment and 1t is tucked
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25

ISIS ALICE ROOSEVELT is
MI one of the prominent young
women who have introduced
the fashion of wearing ex-
tremely handsome and Gressy costumes
at outdoor gatherings, and society
women generally have been eI.deavoring
to make the open-air functions in this
country what they are in Paris. a place
where yogues are created and indorsed.
Since gowns for the fetes represent
the smartest to be found for outdoor
dress purposes in this country some of
these have been selected for this page.
with descriptions Of how they should
be made so that the smart costumes
designed for few women may be with
in the reach of ali who want just such
chic dresses for calling and other pur-
poses where really handsome gown is
required.
The gown for outdoor wear at func-
tions. such as lawn fetes and for call
ing purposes. is often worn with a wrap
This is SO light as scarcely to- deserve
the title and IS often merely worn as
q decorative garment with simple
gown.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25
Stripes Are Very Popular.

Materials for the gowns shown on
this page may be any of the smart
fabrics provided for making up dressy
afternoon gowns. Silks. certain sorts
of chiffons, muils. muslins batistes, and
similar weights of goods are all proper
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25
Serviceable Nuns Yelling.

The sleeves are of the embroidered
linen. trimmed with three crosswise
tucks of graduated sizes. hemstftehed
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25
zhsero o. 9-r..x-sSsS&
CgcBORN

and lingerie coming down in a point In
the middle of the back.
s A little coat effect, arranged in the
fronts of tie bolero jacket. is effectively
trimmed with folds and buttons, and
similar folds cross the sleeves.
The Washington times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1902-1939, 1905-06-25

~ HE woman Who has to stay in
town all summer is mighty
/ fortunate individual if she hap
mems 70 bay, a heck Dore.h on
The Aberdeen Democrat. (Aberdeen, South Dakota) 1???-1909, 1905-04-28
FLEET SAILS NORTH
RoJESTvENSkY QUITS kAMRANH
BAY FOR AN UNKNOWN
DESTINATION.

Kamranh Bay, Indo-China, April %,
via Saigon, April 24.-The Russian
squadron, consisting of fifty-two ships,
including transports, left Kamranh
bay at noon and the main portion
soon disappeared in northerly direc-
ton. Sixteen vessels-the Russian
cruiser Svietlata, the Russian hospital
ship Orsl, four German transports,
seven Danish transports and three
Russian transports-remaine in the
ofang.
Fishermen and others assert that
they heard heavy cannonading off
Kamranh bay during the evening OF
April q.
Those who saw Admiral Rojestven-
sky prior to his departure say he is
suffering from dysentery, accompanied
by severe pains. All the officers and
crews of the Russian ships appeared
TO be full of confidence.
It is believed here that it is Admiral
Rojsstvensky's intention to do every
thing possible to have Admiral Ne
bogatoR join him before undertaking
decisive battle. A torpedo boat de-
stroysr is patrolling tho coast.
The Aberdeen Democrat. (Aberdeen, South Dakota) 1???-1909, 1905-04-28
CONGRESSMAN KILLED
JOHN M. PINCkNEY, HIS BROTH.
Err AND ANOTHER MAN SLAIN
At HEMPsTEAD, TEX.

Hampstead, Tex, April 25-Bitter
feeling over the prohibition question,
which has been felt for several years
throughout the county, ended in
bloodshed at night. At mass meet
ing called for the purpose of petition
ing the governor to send rangers to
enforce the local option law, J. n.
Brown, leading lawyer and
staunch anti-Prohibitionist, began
shooting. In an instant the shooting
became general. Three men were
killed, one man was fatally injured
and two others seriously wounded.
The dead are:
J. N. Brown, Congressman John NJ
Pinckney, and Tom Pinckney, brother
of the congressman.
John Mills, a leading Prohibitionist,
it is feared, cannot survive the night.
Armed men parade the street. Ex-
citement is at fever heat. The gov
ernor has been notified and rangers
are now on the way.
The nights affray may be traced
chiefly to the recent election in which
the nti-Prohibitionists suffered defeat.
Since this election the county has
been divided into factions.
The Aberdeen Democrat. (Aberdeen, South Dakota) 1???-1909, 1905-04-28
FOURTEEN LIVES LOST
CONVENT BUILDING At ST. GEN.
EVlEvE, QUE, COMPLETELY
DESTROYED BY FIRE.

Montreal, April 21.-A disastrous
fire broke out at an early hour and
reduced to ashes the convent in the
little village of st. Genevieve One
nun, nine young ladies ranging in
age from eleven to eighteen years
and four old women lost their lives.
AS soon as the fire was discovered
the villagers fastened to the scene.
Bucket brigades were hurriedly
formed and every possible effort was
made to save the building, but the
fire had gained such headway that it
was soon apparent that there was no
chance to save it from destruction.
The occupants, aroused by the smoke,
attempted to grope their way out OF
the building. Sister Marie Adjuteur, in
heroic EFFORTS to save the lives of the
children in her charge, succumbed to
the smoke and flames. The pupils
who perished were in a portion of the
building where the fire had obtained
too much headway before the alarm
was given to enable those who re-
sponded to effect their rescue.
The Aberdeen Democrat. (Aberdeen, South Dakota) 1???-1909, 1905-04-28
NOTED ACTOR is DEAD
JOSEPH JEFFERSON DIES At HIS
HOME AT PALM BEACH, FLA,
AFTER LONG ILLNESS.

West Palm Beach, Fla. April "a
Death has ended the career of Joseph
Jefferson. The final hours of the
noted actor were spent in unconscious
ness.
The end was not surprise to his
family. Ever since his last sinking
spell, which came after a rally on
Thursday morning and which was fol
lowed by an apparent Improvement
until Friday, the family has been wait
ing for the end.
The sickness of Mr.. Jefferson which
ended in his death was contracted, it
Is believed, while on a visit to his
son, Charles B. Jefferson, at Hobe
sound, few miles above Palm Beach,
where he went to meet mis- friend,
former President Cleveland. 1t is be-
lieved that from a slight indiscretion
in his eating there he suffered an at
tack of indigestion.
Joseph Jefferson was born in Phila-
delphia Feb. 20, 1929, and was looked
upon as the dean Of the dramatic pro-
fession in this country. He first ap-
peared on the stage as child and
during his career had played in a
number of foreign countries. His
great reputation was made in rip
Van Winkle," which he played in al
most every city in the United States.
The Aberdeen Democrat. (Aberdeen, South Dakota) 1???-1909, 1905-04-28
KOCH TRIAL III FULL SWING
Taking of Evidence Ecsun in Famous
Murc.er Case.


ManIsato, Mimi, April 26.-The
Koch trial Is now in full swing. The
taking of evidence began during the
morning, and the state made consid.
cradle progress in developing it's case.
Several witnesses, including Doctors
Weiser and Freitsche, were examined,
and the evidence was almost Identical
with that Of the same witnesses at
the New Ulm trial. In only one par.
ticular was there any change of base
on the part of the state noticeable
and that appeared while Witness
George Schmidt was being examined.
The state failed to ask him whether
he saw Koch have any package under
his arm, wrapped in manila paper,
when he saw the dentist on the even
ing of the murder. At the New Ulln
trial one OF the points made by the
state was that Koch carried such
package under his arm, the theory be-
ing that it was the hammer with
which the murder was committed. 1t
was left for this to be brought out in
cross-examination, after the witness
memory had been refreshed by refer
ence to his previous testimony.
DIR. Koch is still out on bail
The Aberdeen Democrat. (Aberdeen, South Dakota) 1???-1909, 1905-04-28
MUST STAND TRIAL
DECISION ADVERSE TO SENATOR
MITCHELL IN OREGON LAND
FRAUD CASES.

Portland, Ore, April 26.-United
States District Judge Bellinger has
decided adversely to the plea in abate.
ment filed by United States Senator
John M. Mitchell to the indictments
returned against him by the federal
grand jury in connection with the
land frauds in this state
Senator Mitchell was present in the
courtroom when the decision was
read. That Senator Mitchell was
greatly disappointed was evident to
all who watched him as the reading
of the decision proceeded. The de-
oision in effect decides all the pleas
in abatement fled by the numerous
defendants in the land fraud cases
and removes all obstacles to the trial
on the real issue.
The Aberdeen Democrat. (Aberdeen, South Dakota) 1???-1909, 1905-04-28
FATAL GAkB[|NGkAN|A
A Milwaukee Banker Plays for
High Stake and
Loses
The Bank a Million and a Half
ShOrt-Still Solid Financi-
ally

Milwaukee, April 24-.Frank G..
Bigelow, president of the First Ma
tfonal bank of this city and former
president of the American Bankers
association, has defaulted the banks
funds to the extent of S1,5000O0. The
directors of the bank have deposited
In the bank sum sufficient to make
the institution perfectly solid. Mr.
Bigelow has been placed under ar
rest.
The capital of the First National
bank is $1,500,00O and the surplus is
$1,20O,OO0. Mr.. Bigelow has signed
over property to the bank amounting
to 100000, making his net defalca-
ton about $1,200,OOO.
Aside from the surplus, which will
meet the amount of the defalcation,
the sum of $1,535,OOO has been sub
scribed by directors to meet any de-
mands which may be made on the
bank. The comptroller of the cur
rency has been notified and has been
asked to make an immediate examina-
tion of the bank.
Mr.. Bigelow's defalcation became
known to the directors of the bank on
Saturday night. He admitted that
the amount had been lost in specula-
Gon and that he had falsified the
books to cover up the defalcation.
Assistant Cashier Implicated.
Henry G. Coll, assistant cashier of
the bank, has been removed, charged
with having been a party to the falsi-
fcation of the figures in the banks
books. The announcement of the de-
falcation was made by George p. Mil
Ter, one OF the directors of the bank
An intimate friend of President
Bigelow, discussing the case, said:
wheat speculation has cost the
Bigelows their name and the bank a
large sum of money. 1t is family
tragedy as we'll as tremendous shock
to the financial circles of the CITY,
The father, Frank G. Bigelow, had
Chicago speculative connections with
the firm of Tracy & Co., in which his
son, Gordon Bigelow, was a member"
In the late Armour-Gates wheat
battle and the sharp fluctuations Of
the market which have come during
the last few days Bigelow senior and
the Bigelow Junior were caught, and
caught for all that the bank directors
now report taken"
At 2 p. m., an hour before closing
the bank, the crowd of depositors
seeking to withdraw their deposits
had swelled to about 500, extending
out over the sidewalk into the street.