The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-06-01
THE FASHIONS.
FORTHCOMING SKIRTS FROM
 PARIS--PRINCESSE GOWN.
Costumes of Lace and ChiffOn-The "Butterly" Linen Suit-NOvelties in shOe-Fastenings and Pretty Belt.

We take tbe following interesting information about the new skirts from Le Costume Royal:
 At the commencement of the season there was question of reviving pam niers. Now, this was real novelty, but somehow it did not take on, and the two or three important firms who ] thought they held a success had to con- 1 fess themselves beaten. What was refused, however. to the top of | the skirt has been made up for by it's increased width and importance about the foot. La Mode seems determined to get in as much material as possible somewhere.
 With such influences at work it is not surprising to have. the old bugbear l crinoline once more Haunted in , ones face. am obliged to mention the fact, because it is making some stir here, but I am pretty we'll convinced nothing will come of it.
 | Some of the leading firms are making skirts with tunics or peplums derived from the classic draperies of Greece and Rome.
 One of Doucet's new productions is a dress with a tunic falling almost to 1 the foot in front, and nearly to the edge of the short train behind. but l shorter by some ten or twelve inches at the sides, an important feature be- ing that the plaits over the hips are re- versed so that they fall in godet on either side. This dress is built up of coral red voile minon, and the tunic is of the same color interlet with broad lace insertions. What is seen of the skirt is plain, but cut so as to widen out excessively at the bottom.
 One of the English firms is making a skirt that gives the appearance of a short, bell-shaped tunic over full skirt; whereas in point of fact the lat ter is merely a very wide flounce mounted in loose plaits (much more accentuated at the sides and back than in fronD to the top of the deep hem that finishes the tunic portion" Very long skirts are not now in fash ion, and the round length skirts flare as much as possible, and must be very full at the bottom, and also sufficiently ample at the centre of the back.
 In Paris a return of tartans and plaids is prophesied and indeed has be- gun here, for one sees a great number of skirts of small plaids and large checks which are. as 1t were, the thin end of the wedge.
 For bodices nothing is so popular or effective as lace, and every sort of dress Is trimmed with this becoming fabric, if not mainly consisting of it. A skeleton waist of material like the skirt is often seen, just bretelles, perhaps, or scrolls, extending upwards from the wide girdle. Some of the gowns have merely a wide girdle of the material and a trimming of the same on the sleeves, to cary out the idea. The body of the waist is then Of some kind of lace. or often of two or more kinds ir combination. These are becoming and pretty, particularly when the dress is of the fashionable silk
 Little fichu capes and tiny boleros are also seen over thin dresses and lingerie waists, and many of the coats are made with short sleevs to show the elaborate cuffs below. With these also, is very generally seen the long wrinkled glove. the newest of which have embroidered bracelets or backs tc vary their plainness.
 Now is the season when many youns women are thinking of wedding gowns for the month of brides is at hand Some of the June weddings are bound to be prettier this year than ever, for hats and gowns are unusually suitable for such gala occasions. One of the prettiest materials for June bride tc wear is plaited white chiffon over satin which is so soft and becoming.
 HarDer's Bazaar says of the wedding gown.
 The princesse model is always g favorite one to choose, and now that il is in fashion to have the front of the waist draped, it is far more becoming No trimming is necessary on either silk or satin--that is, on the skirt while lace yoke and dainty, cobwebh, lace ruffles on the sleeves are all-suff cient. If a more elaborate effect is de sired, then an embroidered design worked out in silk with seed pearls ol rhinestones, is effective on wide bant around the hem of the skirt, but some how the plain, rather severe style tha relies only upon the beauty of thu material and the graceful folds seem! smarter and more attractive
 Of colors, blue threatens to be a, much the rage as was brown last win , ter, There are several popular shades but navy deep shade of royal, an, alice are the most in vogue, The mum Der of blue hats in the shops is legion and they are very charming. Nov that they are beginning to be reduced they are certainly very tempting, bu : the wise woman will wait a littl to invest in her summer chapeaux when an ideal one may be bought fo less than half the price they wer originally marked.
 A very lovely wedding or evening gown of soft white satin was shown il one of the department stores. The sof : folds of the bodice formed a girdle and fitting around the armholes an, across the bust, met a deep yoke o white Renaissance of unusually hand some design. with inserted motifs 0 guipure. At the back of the bodice thu | folds en6p6 fl, tu,n rnwc nf