The San Francisco call., 1905-05-07

n THEIR things may in an emer-
gency be silghted. but TO a be-
" coming summer costume appro-
pirate collars, cuffs and belts are
absolutely essential. 1t is upon this
subject that 1 propose TO write to-day
. Quantity is as important, too, as
quality, because collars whiting and
dropping under the summer heat and
iGmbled cuffs looking as if they were
two days ola viii go far toward spoil
ing the appearance Of any costume.
On the other hand, a quite plain and
Inpretentious costume may be re-
deemed by these important parts of il.
For example, a perfectly simple dress
of linen or duck viii be made to appear
not only appropriate, but really attrac-
g tive and stylish by embroidered coll
lar, cuffs and belt. all 10 match, and
that, too. al very little expense and al
most no trouble. OF course, some of
these sets are costly, but the question
occurs to me, Why should We have to
purchase what we can make ourselves?
And many young ladies nowadays do
make them, and the result is, of
course. cheaper, frequently prettier
and almost always more appropriate
results than can be found in the shops
The art. Of making French knots is
valuable accomplishment. Nothing
looks neater or more effective than
d French knots and If YOU know how TO
make them you should begin at once
10 prepare your sets for the summer.
Please bear in mind that il is abso-
lutely decreed this year that sets must
match-that is, the belt the collar and
the cuffs must all be of the same de-
sign In one OF the illustrations the
design is of French dots and fieurs-dez
lis. and the result is very attractive
set for an outing suit This set was
sent TO me by a very fashionable New
York society woman, who has just re-
turned from Paris and therefore quite
up 10 date. You Will notice that even
the buckle is covered with white linen.
Collars.
o So many STYLES of collars are now
worn that a great deal may be said
about them, whether of stiff or soft col
lars or of high or low collars-but the
fashion this year is unQuestionably TO
have every article Of dress soft anc
fluffy, which doubt is very generally
becoming. Many shirt waists this year
are made with regular collars of lace or
embroidery to match the waist, and
with a little ruche of lace at the top.
But with palmer and every day waists
the collar must generally be supplied.
White is always in good taste and al
ways washes better than color. In
France il is the fashion to wear stiff
linen turnover collars, which are gen.
orally embroidered at each corner, but
stoned over with two fancy buttons or
studs. The studs are frequently tur-
Quoise These collars are often worn
with chiffon and thin fluffy waists, pro-
ducing an effect that is not only soft
and pretty, but very smart.
This year the Buster Brown collar
will be worn a great deal 1t may be
either soft or starched. and is a low
and broad turnover collar that is very
becoming on a neck that is not too
large. 1t must, however, be worn with
"a tie of some kind. preferably with a
small, soft, silk four-in-hand. with a
very small knot Stocks have gone out
OF fashion entirely. The summer girl
OF to-day is no longer a mannish girl,
with sleeves rolled up, heavy walking
shoes and a mans stock This year she
is quite a dainty, pink and white and
FTenchy girl-all tucks and ruff1es, with
lace and lace ruches. In the morning
her dress should be a short linen. or
duck dress, toned and softened and or
namented with pretty embroidered coll
lar, cuffs and belt In the afternoon
she arrays herself in lawn or organdie,
with the softest neckwear she can find
She also wears d lace hat and carries
a dainty parasol to keep her little white
neck from tanning. In short the
American summer girl is no longer the
''Gibson girl but the "Wenzel girl
and !. for one. am very glad of ii. 1t
is such pleasure TO have pretty, dain-
~ things of lace.
With some of the soft collars ii may
be necessary 10 wear an under-coIIar.
An extremely nice under-colIar is one
called the Phyllis which is made of
nousseline de sole and featherbone 1t
is very thin, Invisible and will hold up