The Montgomery advertiser., 1905-04-21
,ndcn Letter. i'm Haberdasher

Londcn Letter in Haberdasher.
 The color-note of the present season
 in London Is brown. The brown of
 the day Is a strictly defined color In
 the really fashionable world, for al-
 though all sorts of browns are being
 made up for miscellaneous trade. the West End now as always. wears its hue with difference" There is but
 one really fashionable brown. It IS very dark, very full in tone, ranging
 rather toward purplish tone than to- ward mahogany, and in tweeds 1t is broken only by a slight admlxture of
 black so that you have decidedly
 somber effect. The consequence is
 that brown shoes, which looked rather
 well with the grays of last summer,
 are not likely to be so much worn, at
 all events during the spring; by way
 of compensation, brown hats of the
 bowler" shape (which is our name
 for a derby), are in for a decided run.
 In hats, more than anything else. there
 is danger of a mistake. Light, drahby
 browns are being sold all over the
 country. but they are one and all ab-
 solutely wrong-wrongest Of all when
 worn with a contrasting riband and binding of a slightly darker and fuller
 brown The only modish hat Is of the
 same hue that I have just described
 for suitings, and the fittings are made
 to match it as nearly as possible, al- lowing for the difference of fabric
 These facts are established beyond d's-
 pute.
 Gray Alpine hats. therefore, have gone entirely out of use, and wearing of such A hat is one of the most notice able solecisms that can be committed.
 Indeed, gray has died the death all along the line. Even gray morning coats and frocks are now out Of lash ion: the black coat is semi as well as full dress. Most remarkable of all Is the disappearance of gray suede
 gloves. SO long a noted accompani-
 ment of full day dress. Cravats, worn
 with tailed coats, are black with q spot. generally yellow or green. and the fashionable crowd is going Tor snots of A very uniform shape-square. u,ith rounded corners. For lounge wear the most fashionable knot IS l made of yellow China silk (whicn su-
 persedes crepe), though there IS taste. in this department alone, TOT orroen The small knot, with wide ends unlined, is the shape for wearing with a double collar, full squares pe- ing wrong with this. as the soft shirt l Ia wanted to be on show. The( cholce between yellow and green Is deter" mined by the color, 1T any, or lne shirt. The most marked lnnoValioh Ill lounge shirts is the free use or tucks: Man1 dav shirts for jacket wear are of
 white cambric Cor, rather, they will be
 when the weather Is little warmer), but even when French print is used.
 when line patterns will be practically
 universal. these small tucks will bo in evidence on the fronts. Crash flannel l is a new cloth.
 Even dress shirts will be plain, and
 with single stud in the front. There
 is one important point to be remem- bered in this connection, and that is, l tbat the stud hole is placed about three-quarters of an inch higher than
 usual. It is a small thing to make Snss about; but the correct position of
 inc stud will be mark for some little | time of the fashionable, custom-made shirt as contrasted with the cheaper, l ready-made article. Evening bows will be larger than last seasons. But