Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-06-18

girdle and neck arrangement, is very salts
factory 1t il by touches OF the wearer's
own personality carried out IN the cravat.
lingerie chenfiseste. hat and sanshade that
a customer Is separated from the common
herd of modes. and more than little of
the present day possibilities In this dfrec-
ton. despite the craze for hand work. must
be credited to the wonders of machine out
put Perhaps the beautfful tamhour laces
lorna of the most striking instances
of the blending of hand and machine WORK.
as also do the wonderful colored embroid-
cries one sees on coat faeinKs and waist
coats. The broderie saagiafse frocks.
fiounces and insertions are almost without
exception the product OF the machine. l
suppose 1t Is because these embroideries
were first made In England that they are
known far and wide as hfederie angiaise.
though today they all come from Switz-
erland. These remarkable new embroid-
ering machines are carefully guided by
hand and. so to speak. influenced by the
brains and taste of the manipulation. ard
their work Is beautiful or otherwise .ae-
cording to the artisan. Just as the wonder
full piano-piaying Instruments are agree
able or not according to the operator
Petticoats for wear with thin dresses are
receiving an unusual amount of attention.
and the Partisan is having made skirts of
fine white lawn trimmed with old-fash
toned Madeira work in princess style to
obviate the necessity of underbodsce or
a slip bodice beneath n muslin blouse. The
top of the skirt is trimmed with a line of
embroidery, tied with pale colored ribbon.
The hem boasts q founce of the embrod-
cry headed with beading threaded with rib
bon. Such skirt needs careful making
and fitting, and the economical woman will
see tha. II escapes the ground. so that
visit to the laundry may be postponed as
long as possible. There are of course. pet
ticoats trimmed with innumerable frllls of
~ ly.,1ts fs,z,
of valenciennes lace. but the woman who
has to consider the cost and is fastidious
as to appearance takes advantage or the
ordinary petticoat made of white glace silk
trimmed with ffounceS of the material.
White pongee also makes nice sum-
mer skirt trimmed with Valenciennes lace,
which washes splendidly. The best way to
fasten the skirt is down one side of the
front. leaving it plain about the front and
sides. gathered into the waist at the back
and adorned at the bottom with two
! f1ounces, deep one vandyked and edged
with lace under the other, which Is merely
a small dust ruffie. A pretty and inexpen-
sive petticoat is made of zephyr cotton of
any attractive light color with a shaped
| fiounce bordered with an embroidered,
scalloped edge.
Every woman should be provided with It
least one petticoat for wet weather. Per
soually I prefer a checked silk with a deep
founce of silk edged with narrow killing.
Any one who studies the details of the tot
let knows the value of a dainty, attractive
underskirt. particularly since the vogue of
the short jupe.
Auteuil with its excellent races. is the
smart Sunday meeting place of fashion
and lately the weather has been ideal,
though at the beginning of the season
there was nothing but rain and more
rain,' which dampened the ardor of the
fashionable crowd Now everything is
bright, and one sees the early summer cos
tune at its bravest. One or two novelties
In the way of sunshades were to be seen
last Sunday. The most stunning had two
fiounces of silk edging an embroidered cen
green silk worked in shades of green and
gold relieved with black and gold. The
fair owner told me the design was copied
from an old Louis XVI pattern which had
a Chinese inspiration. The two quaint
pinked out fiounces edging the sunshade
We're hemmed in an elaborate buttonhoie
stitch with the same shade of silk The
handle was of antique chased gold, which
when spring was pressed opened to dis
close an ingenious collection of toilet arti-
cles-powder. rouge a tiny mirror. a knife,
a pencil, etc. This handle is removable and
can be screwed on to any umbrella. Shaded
chiffon paraSols there were in abundance,
very appropriately carried with costumes
composed of taffeta short coats and chiffon
skirts.
X x
One lovely gown was of Alice blue serge.
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