The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1905-04-27
THE FASHIONS.
STRAW HATS, DYED AND LIN-
GERIE HATS EMBROIDERED

To Match costumes-what Young Girls
are weariag-A New Lightweight
Pique Fashion Kind to slender Fig
ures.
The fashion of matching every part
of ones costume is being carried to the
extreme limit this season. The hat
must match more exactly than ever,
and many women buy white straw
braids and have it dyed to, the desired
tone. Milliners will have the straw
Grin and horsehair braids are easy to
color, but some of the straws are very
difficult, hence expensive.
Linen sailor hats will be popular to
wear with linen gowns, and when the
gowns are embroidered it is the thing
to have a matching embroidery on the
hat. Several shops make a specially
of these exacting little requirements,
and their charges are so moderate that.
unless one is an expert enbroiderer, it
is better not to attempt them at home.
even a shirtWaist' front, and another
to decorate a hat or a parasol. The
amateurish is usually very apparent.
Among attractive hats seen this week
were some very good street hats at
prices running from $3.75 to $40. There
is such a demand for such hats that it
is rather surprising that better ones
are not carried The average ready-to-
wear hat is frankly hideous. 1t COM
bines all the fads of fashion in cheap
materials. and is very seldom the SIM
pie, stylish thing most women prefer
for morning wear. Ordinarily simple
hat costs, almost as much as dress
hat. One pretty model among the ex-
ceptions to this rule was a blue sailor
slightly tilted, and trimmed around the
brim with band of lighter blue lace
straw. This was slightly fulled and re-
lieved the plain appearance of the hat,
which had no other trimming except
a wide ribbon which was folded around
the crown and was tied in a stiff bow
on one side.
A black and white hat attracted at
tention. This was gwsy shape rolled
up very high in the back. The upper
part of the hat was of dead black
braided straw, while the under part
was white. The low crown had a
crushed band Of black velvet with al
small gold buckle on one side. The
velvet was brought through the straw
in the back and was fastened there
with a larger gold buckle.
q pntho,. hIaoIr ~ Srxr1tifa rtro Nv xrn q
black underneath and white above. 1t
was a Continental shape and had no
trimming except two shining black
wings and a rosette of black satin, arr
ranged on one Of the turned-up fronts.
Black and white millinery is rnodish,
as it almost always is. A fine straw
hat in a round shape had for trimming
a crush band of black velvet and a
pompom of pure white ostrich tips with
a large aigrette. The polo turbans are
simple enough, but they are so UNI
deniably bizarre that they do not look
simple. In order to be worn with any
effect the coifure must be elaborate.
The turban to show to advantage must
perch among braids and puffs of hair.
Worn with a plain couture it looks like
a pillbox
There are variations Of the turban
which are not quite so hard to wear. The
Lamballe turban has a f1uted Or ruffled
edge, something like a Corday, only
shorter. This gives a foundation for a
wreath trimming which relieves the
look Of startling abruptness character
istic OF the pole. A charming fnauve Of
this description had the Inner brirn UNI
der the ruff1ed straw edge filled with a
tulle ruching lighter in color than the
turban. The wreath was of yellow
pansies-a popular flower just at
present-whfse a single ostrich tip was
arranged panache-Wise on the
side, fastened there by a 1rauve
velvet rosette.
All sorts, and one might say all con-
ditions. of flowers are fashionable for
millinery purposes. Milliners have
never taken great pains to keep the
colors of their flowers within the
limitations prescribed by nature, but
the variations they are INDUCING In at
present are rather startling. Are green
and fnauve roses really beautiful? Pink
forget-me-nots are not so bad simply
because they suggest any kind Of small
wild blossoms, but the rose is always
the rose and should be kept as nearly
natural as possible. n
There is nothing very new this spring
in mourning hats, except that the crepe
trimmings are softened by being mixed
with dead black silk and black quilts or
wings. The broad hat of mourning is no
longer in good taste. Low broad tur-
bans have taken their place. The wide
hat certainly did have a more or less