Iowa County democrat. [volume] (Mineral Point, Wis.) 1877-1938, 1905-02-02

VI uin.uS SOulu uOt uouliSll III q IL
public He supposed that only in
old world countries, with their large
leisure classes, could the real artist in
the cunning craft of the cuisine be
trained and supported Yet today the
best-eQuipped kitchens in the world
are found in America, and they are in
charge of men who receive salaries far
beyond what even royalty could pay
for their services.
1t is in American hotels that the
modern art of cookery mas been de-
veloped more highly than anywhere
else in the wide world, probably.
Hardly a generation ago they were
by-word among travellers, all but few
shining exceptions among the old-time
obstetrics of the larger cities, but to-
day there are scores of them more
splendid and luxurious than anything
the continent can show. And this de-
velopment in the national living has
passed the stage of extravagant ex-
pensiveness, though its magniticence
has increased year by year.
Perhaps as good an example as any
of how the republic mas disproved the
European epigram, because it is the
last word" in its way, is to be found in
the St Regis, one of the famous among
New Yorks giant inns. The kitchens
here are a yeritable wonderland, far
below the hurry and rumble of the
streets, but always bright as day in
the shining of thousands of electric
lights The floors are of marble,
the walls and ceilings are of glisten-
ing white tiles, and the tables and
counters are of heavy plate glass.
Even the air here is better than that
of the outside world. 1t rises through
openings SO devised that before all
the ranges there is always curtain
of clean, pure air. If you stand be-
hind this invisible screen you do not
feel the heat of the glowing charcoal
fire in the broiler or the warmth from
the bubbling caldrons, and the venti-
ating apparatus not only affords an
abundance Of fresh air but also so dis
tributes it that there are no annoy
ing draughts to change the even tenn
perature of the fires or to affect ever
so slightly the result of the labors of
the cooks
Connected with these marble kitch-
ems are a grocery, larger tnan that
which supplies many a suburban neigh
borhood; vegetable fish market, and
even a complete delicatessen store.
Down an aisle $50 feet long are the
meat rooms in one of which, perhaps
l. feet square, two expert butchers
are busy day and night. AS fast as
they are carved the meats are taken
to an adjouining cod-storage room
where on the shelves are always
steaks and chops and roasts enough
to feed good-sized village for a
week. In another cold room nearby
are kept hundreds of domestic fowl
together with imported pheasants and
grouse and woodcock, brought from
wherever they are to be found in
their prime at each particular season.
There are seemingly innumerable re-
frigerators, one as large as a spacious
room, completely filled WITH dairy
products, another containing fruits and
q third replenished daily with vege-
tables.
Net the least surprising thing
about the St Regis kitchen to the
housekeeper Of even a luxurious pri-
yato establishment is the arrangement T
OF ranges and ovens. Each kind of
food has its own special fire. The
first as you go down the room is re- +
served for specialtes-those mysteri- 7
Gus delieacies which require the great I
est care in their preparation and may
be spoiled in cooking, however well .
they may have been concocted
There are ranges and steam tables
for vegetables and there are count .
less broilers One section Is given up
entirely to cooking meats, another to 7
sauces, and nearby are the steamers
and boilers for the fish.
In place by Itself is the cold meat
and game. and further along the
bakery. the ice cream department and
the section where the pastry is made
The ices are frozen in an electrical i
machine aud electrical machinery is
also used la fae bakery, where there
are also brick ovens The confection
cry. sugar boxes candy baskets and
mounted pieces are all made by hand
in a place by themselves, which has
it's own heater freezers and mechani
cal equipment
Though it is true that cookery has
attained its highest development in
tais country it is also true that Ameri.
cans still 60 abroad to find the men
who preside over such wonderful
kitchens as these. The chef Of the
81 Regis, sor example, Is Emile
BaiIiy who 4 few years ago was as.
sistant ro the chef Of the Russians am.
ba sador at Berlin Good dinners play
an important part in even internation-
al diplomacy and no one better under
stats the cunning Of the modern diplo-
mat t0au the Russians So perhaps
no training in the culinary art cou,d
te more nprfarf than that 10 he gained