Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02

have no sign of any opening at the back
There is no doubt, however. that the very
smartest skirts are cut on circular lines
and rest slightly on the floor. Carefully
fitted darts shape them tightly In at the
waist line, and they are finished at the
back with side plaits. closing down the
front or at the side of the front in seam
concealed beneath straps or plaits. The
double tiounce skirt has a place also in
winter fashions, but like the redingote
1t is distinctly for the tall woman. Fin
reaches almost to the hem Of a full
under-fiounce and Stimulates a tunic
Two Of the most popular materials for
the first OF the season VIII be heavy,
Rroadcloth is more silky than ever in
weaves as supple as liberty satin. In fact,
all the new materials are so soft and pill
able that they are spoken of under their
own name, preceded by the word chiffon.
Chiffon velour is the velvet for the win
ter. and 1t partakes of the suppleness and
pliability of the broadcloth. The girl of
moderate income, however, should chose a
more expensive and less durable velours.
Serges, cheviots and Irish frieze are rough
in texture and appear in unpretentious
plaids and checks in two tones.
The Brown Shades.
Browns, especially thrush and cinnamon
brown. will be favorite colors. Gray con-
tinues its vogue OF the spring and rich
shades Of mahogany and fucshia red will
be worn by women whose dresses are not
intended for more than one season.
An imported suit of cheviot In light ma
hogany embraces many of the distinctive
features of the smart coat and skirt The
double skirt has tight-itting tunic over
skirt which falls six inches above the hem
Of the under fiounce. This tunic opens down
the front in four graduated folds of the ma
terial on either side, which come to sharp
n nf ha nd
circle its lower edge. Similar folds are set
in at the bust line of a short tight-ftting
basque and also shape point at the top of
scant lego mutton sleeves Finishing the
peplum curves gracefully up to the under
arm seams. low-cut vest of silk inside
rolling revers of braided white broad-cloth
closes the basque, while stitched straps of
the material with cloth covered buttons out
line the length of the sleeves.
Inverted Plaits.
For a middle-aged woman a becoming
Jacket with ripping peplum is built OF gun
metal broadcloth. Bishop sleeves terminate
at the elbow in tight-ftting cuffs. Both the
front Of the jacket and the skirt show in
verted box plaits. a shaped belt of the
broadcloth accentuates the waist line and is
trimmed with motifs and buttons built
from soutache braid, which also ornaments
q short shoulder cape and seam at the
back or the Jacket. SILK military braid In
double rows finishes the bottom of the
skirt and the ffchu ends of the jacket-cape
at the front
A striking example of long-skirted coat
Is in silver gray broadcloth. Very fine shir-
rings of this supple fabric give princess
effect to the redingote. the fullness being
released at the hips to fall in graceful rip
pies over the long skirt of the suit. Let
In at the shoulder seams are gatherings of
broadcloth edged on either side by silk Her.
culeS braid in silver gray. They form the
only decoration for the front OF the coat
and terminate at the waist line in cocardes
Of gray silk with an antique silver button
at the heart of each. Silk braid and ro-
settle buttons finish the coat sleeves.
In Blue and White.
Tremendously chic for a youthful figure |
e coat and skirt OF blue and white |
striped serge. At the head of the hem of |
he jupe are laid oblong motifs made from