Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-09

A beautiful creation for half-mourn-
ing is a dotted white Swiss muslin of
finest quality trimmed with tiny ruffies
of fine black lace and topped by a black
lace hat, having a crown of small white
roses and black tulle, with black velvet
bow at the back.
The bodice has a surplice effect at the
top, Or perhaps one should say. a semi
surpllce. 1t starts as though to form a reg
ular surplice waist. but the sides meet at
the center near the top and are finished
by small black velvet bows. The stock and
pointed guimpe are of Irish crochet There
are two tiny plaitngss of the fine black
lace set on the stock, one pointing up and
the other down. and each having its pIaits
caught to the white lace; between the two
pIaltfngS a lace barb is caught, and this is
made into a smart cravat bow with fly
away ends at the front Down the center
of the guimpe are two more of these piait-
1ngs, the taffeta foundation stiffening them,
ana the Swiss is laid In four-inch deep
downward turning plaits at the inside
| seams. Below this. set on Swiss founda-
ton. are five two-inch rufiies of the Swiss
edged with black lace.
This gown could easily be copied in fig
ured organdie or muslin, with Valenciennes
| or any other narrow white lace instead of
| black. or in any other thin goods, and the
| removal oof the separate stock and suirnpe
| would leave a pretty dinner gown
a simple and easily copied model gown
| Is soft white silk striped with brown; the
| white stripes are three fourths of an inch
| wide and the brown stripes the width of a
| pinhead and in a soft golden brown Striped
| mohair, however, would be quite as effec-
| tive.
The skirt of this costume is a gored af-
| fair; that is, 1t Is skin-tight to below the
| hip line, and at that point in the back
| and in the sides fan plaits of the goods
are set in, but not pressed in, and these,
| together with the cores. give great fullness
| to the skirt. which just clears the floor all
| around and Is DerfppttY Dlafu In ba frop
! a panel effect is given by the two cores at
| the sides tapping over and being SO stitch
| ed that each projects an inch over the
| center section.
| The bodice Is an Elton coat effect. the
blouse portion being of plain white chiffon
| tafeta. which shows only at the bottom of
| the jacket in the front and also at the top
| in Vshaped section. This blouse has in
| sertions of lace down the center front and
! pouches out over a narrow white girdle
| having a chased gold buckle. The little
| Elton coat is just short enough at the back
| and sides to show the belt, and rounds up
| from the sides almost to the bust line at
the center front. The back is plain, wit n
| seam down the center, and the material
| Is so cut that the stripes slant upward and
| outward. From the under-arm seams the
| fronts are each laid in three two-fnch plaits
| that are pressed in over the plain white
| taffeta lining. These plaits are slanted to-
| gether at the bust line. An inch wide bias
| fold of silk goes all around the edges of
| the jacket and just above this is an inch
wide insertion of heavy white lace A COL
| lar of brown chiffon velvet matching the
| color of shade of the brown stripe starts
| in spear points at the bust line. covers the
| termination of the plaits. and goes up and
| around the neck, being perhaps two inches
| deep at the back. Three rows of white silk
| braid In soutache width outline the edge
| of the collar On the shoulders too, each
| front is laid in three scant plaits, that
| several folds show each side of the
| front. The sleeves are full leg of-mutton
| to the elbows. where an inch wide faring
| cuff of the velvet outlined with three rows
| of the white braid. is turned back over 1t,
| and below this is seen the mousquitaire
| cuff of the silk blouse formed of alternate
| insertions of silk and lace that run up and
| down till they reach the wrist, where a
| narrow band of silk with lace on both
| sides runs around the arm.
| The hat to go with this particular frock
| is white chip with golden brown crown
| trimmed with folds of white picot-edged
| ribbon. This ribbon Is laid in loose folds
| around the low crown and in chou-like
| bows at the right The hat Tits up at the
| right and back and masses OF fine coral
| colored silk flowers and white tulle are
1 massed against the moderately wide brim.
| MARIE WELDON.