The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-04-13

StimneSS. The present S@3AsS NSAAAsAAi@ pliable materials.
 In spite of dressmakers' announce ments that short coats will be worn, one sees more redingotes and long, loose coats every day. The Directoire coat is very fashionable in Paris, and many imported models are being shown. This coat has short jacket or zOuave front which opens over little waistcoat, and is cut away at the sides to reappear in long coat tail which exends sometimes to inc bottom of the skirt, but more commonly stops at the knees. Any number of these coats in heavy guipure or lace are seen, for the style is by no means confined to walk ing or outside coats. It is seen in street gowns made of the dress mateTi- al, or of some handsome material like silk or velvet. Some handsome demi- toilettes are made with DirectOire coats, the chiffon broadcloths and hem rietta lending themselves well to the style. Separate coats of lace, silk and other rich fabrics are to be work with gowns of ceremony. Even wedding and i evening gowns are provided with them. The very handsome gowns are made 1 princess, and the Directoire coats are supposed to be for the benefit of those who cannot bear the princess style. In fact, no woman, unless her figure is very good, can wear a princess gown gracefully. If she is well built and well corsetted she may venture, but not otherwise. A ball gown in cream col ored Brussels not spangled with gold was made over a lowered silk yelled 1 with chiffon, so that just a suggestion of the figure appeared. The net was princess and was fitted to the figure by l fine plaits or tucks. Three narrow flounces outlined with gold gauge trimmed the foot of the skirt. There was bertha of point lace fastened with little roses of pale-colored chiffon and gold gauge, and the short puffed sleeves had ruffies of point lace In ] which the little roses were mingled.
 l The princess dress becomes a possi- bility for the many when a short fancy bolero is added, and most of the day princess gowns are made thus. Some times the bolero effect shows only in the front, but even so the relief of the long, unbroken line is grateful.
 This is a wonderful season for lace. Hardly any kind of lace is out of fash ion altogether, even Irish lace, which was temporarily retired, having been restored to full favor. In robes and separate coats heavy embroidery and lace are combined with excellent re- sulta French crochet lace and English eyelet embroidery were combined in a moderately expensive robe. The skirt was round and had two circular f1ounces, and the waist was a bolero to be made up over finer lace or chiffon blouse. Trimmings of hand ernbroi- dery combined with real lace are very beautiful and often very expensive. A clever woman could make these trim mings herself, perhaps using bits ot hoarded lace and thus bringing down the cost. In this connection, it is sug- gested that instead of buying lace and embroidery insertion, it, is often eco nomical to buy the all-over embroidery and cut it in strips. A little fine seam ing or heading on the edges adds to the effect. The economical woman is
 likewise recommended to study thu many collar and cuff sets marked al
 such extravagant figures and to ob'
 serve that plenty of them are quite
 possible to. get up at home for half the money or less. Of course. the woman
 who can enbroider, and does not con. slider the time wasted, can make almos any kind of collar and cuff, but those
 who cannot may combine enaroider1
 and lace to good effect Transparent
 yokes and sleeves are also possibilities for home manufacture. The ones 1T the shops must be carefully studied
 and pattern perhaps will be necessa
 ry. The rest is a matter of patience New York Evening Post.