The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-12-21

pie models. The shocking occurs in the yoke and cuffs of the slips, which are straight little garments something like those worn by Kate Greenaway picture book children. Very simple and inexpensive materials are used for these gowns, ginghams, coarse linens, pongee, and China silks being the best adapted.
 Shocked waists are very effective for older girls and even mature women. The stitches are not difficult to learn, and clever needle women may orna- ment their own blouses with little ef- fort. A London house famous for it's creations has branch houses in at least two American cities, one being, of course, New York. This house makes a speciality of smocked gowns and waists for groWn-ups as well as children. In the soft crepes, shantungs, and silk muslins affected by the firm these waists are unique in their simple beauty and refinement.
 In looking at these lovely importa- tions, as well as the exquisite fabrics, velVeteens as luStrous as rich silk vel vet, vet washable as muslin, crepes and soft silks in hues which are the triumph of the dyer's art, one is 1pt to resent the protective tariff which dou- bles the cost to the American pur- chaser. Women are not practica. econ- omists, it is feared. At all events the woman who in her heart agrees with the theory of protection is a rare crea- ture.
 Speaking of importations, 8 simple dinnner gown from a famous Paris house is worth describing. The mater ial was pale mauve mousseline de soie trimmed with heavy satin of match ing shade. The full skirt had 8 knee flounce of Point d'AIencon trimmed with five graduated bands of satin. A band about three inches wide bordered the bottom of the f1ounce and the band which headed it was less than an inch in width. The waist was a surplice and had anfichu of the net bordered on either side with satin bands. The flchu was crossed in. the front and was car ried around to the back, where it was tied and fell in long ends. Little shaped caps of the satin were seen on the shoulders. The sleeves were full puffs which extended half way to the elbows and were finished with lace ruff fles. The pointed girdle was of silver gauge, and a graceful bow knot of the gauge trimmed the low bodice. One imagined how we'll a large corsage bouquet of pale violets might lend ac- cent to the gown.
 A dear little princess gown of radium silk in a pale raspberry shade was made with very full shirred skirt, the shirrings sharply pointed in front like a girdle. The foot of the skirt was trimmed with three very narrow ruffles and above them full puff and a box plaited frilling. All of these trimmings were narrow, so that the skirt decora- tion was barely six inches wide. The bodice was cut low in the neck, and was a daraped bolero fastened in front with three bands of inch-wide black velvet attached on either side with large rhinestone and silver buttons. Under the velvet bands showed a little vest of white point lace, and a bertha of the same lace trimmed the decollete. The sleeves were very small, but eX- tremely effective. A tiny puff, finished with two narrow ruffIes, formed the basis of the sleeve. Under it was a two-inch ruffle of lace tied around with two narrow bands, and bows of black velvet ribbon.-New York Evening Post.