Los Angeles herald., 1905-11-05
05DE pEAlTED EAUvE CHIFFON CVER PALE C.LE.

~ ECEPTION gowns for the coming
X winter might be divided into two
distinct classes-namely, receiv-
ing gowns and calling costumes. The
afternoon or reception coat and skirt
costume has passed quite out of vogue,
and in it's place are worn elaborately
made light colored silks and velvets,
over which are thrown handsome
wraps of silk, embroidered cloth, vel
vet or plush.
For the day at home the gown must
able for a street or, rather, carriage
dress. This season white will be worn
to a great extent, but bright and un-
usual shades of pink, orange, purple,
blue and red will be found extremely
fashionable. In regard to material,
soft, clinging chiffon and stiff taffeta
silk are one as smart as the other,
while both cloth, but in a quality so
light as to seem almost like satin, and
chiffon velvet still retain their popular
ity.
The princess gown is decidedly in
evidence this autumn, for it is a style
peculialy becoming or else singularly
the reverse, and for this reason will
live long among those whose natural
long ana STdCeIul lilies are lIluS SIlOWn
to advantage.
Not only to the bell or dinner gown
is tbs style confined, but many of the
most exquisite French models in re-
ceiving gowns are made after this rath-
er distinctive pattern. For such soft
material as chiffon or mousseline de
sole rows of finest tucking, of bands
of shirring or, when accordion pleated,
of ruching should be laid about the
waist and over the hips, and even in
the heavier materials shirring and
gathers are still seen designating the
waist line.
In cloth, silk and velvet, however,
the perfectly plain princess of some
few years back was too becoming to-
die altogether, and so we have again
the model shown in the illustration
deep yoke and sleeves of handsome
lace, but the only trimming a band of
mbroidery-ribbon, silver thread or
bright colored pailettes-running down
the center of the gown and bordering
the hem. The sleeve in the illustra-
tion is a pretty model of this moments
fashion-the double puff divided by a
soft roll of ribbon or silk.
Length of the Train
Just what is the correct length of
train is always a question for discus
sion. At present the train is slowly
perhaps, but very surely becoming
longer. With the first revulsion from
the long train of few years back, it
seemed that no house gown could have
train sufficiently short while street
dresses cleared the ground by from two
to four inches.
Now, while the walking skirt remains
sensibly short, house gown may be
a becoming length. Exaggerated
trains are decidedly tabooed, the
smartest train lying some eight or
kxurAl NanIe ARaINT 4
touching in front, becoming gradually
longer toward the back A reception
gown to be worn with hat, while con-
siderably shorter than the house
gown, must, nevertheless, touch the
floor and have a slight train.
On all light and elaborate gowns ell
bow sleeves are smart. With many o.
the handsomest reception gowns the
sleeve will be severely simple-a full
puff narrowing down to band of lace
at the elbow. Broad effects, however,
are often necessary, and the sleeve
may be as elaborate as desired.
The wide girdles still prevail, al
though narrower belts are every bit
as much in vogue. AS long as the
boned girdle is fashionable the bolero
effect must live, for soft silk pleated
or gathered loosely, falling over a tight
fitting girdle, gives an effect becoming,
In particular, to a tall woman, al
thouSh - 'AtS "%''t HiiS NC SuiiCleHlly
long bolero is becoming to any figure
Must Have SILK Gowns
From an economical standpoint there
Is nothing so serviceable as a hand
some silk dress. Like the old fashioned
black silk or satin "Sunday-go-t
meeting" dress, without which no wo-
man of the olden times could be thor
oughly respectable, a smart silk gown
is today obligatory in every OUTFIT A
light silk frock win do service for the
ater gown as well as receiving costume