davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19

cinating blouse is arranged to emphasize the straight front. One smart model has the blouse fastening over on the chest and then pulled away to either side to display this vest, the fitness being drawn down into very narrow belt without any sagging or baggng. and the belt just coming to either side of the vest, stopping short there. with big, smart button on either side.
 The short Eton model too. retains all of its hold upon the somewhat capricious affections of Madame la Mode. Now, however, it has taken to itself shallow htted belt, embellished with much trim ming and eiabor1 tion-all of 1t flat, of course-and this tops n postilion back, which sometimes extends in basquine shape pretty we'll to the fronts. Where the darts would be if they were present Is usually the stopping point for the bas- quine. and this makes for the flat effect which Is absolutely imperative in the front of the skirt and the coat alike.
 The new skirts are managed either in q full circular cut-so full that it must and have Il haircloth lining some 10 or F inches deep to sustain the swirling full ness around the foot-or else they are constructed in tiered sections. the full edge of the lower joined to the straight edge of the upper, and strappings, plea t. ings, nuns folds, bouillonnes, in fact any style of trimming that one may fancy, being cieyerly used to cover the joining.
 And all of these new skirts are long, save and except only the distinctly pedes- trienne style. This alone of all the new modes clears the ground; the others lie anywhere from an inch in front Ito 12 inches in the back flat on the floor.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19

threads, In the design-or else of the ex- qulste chiffon >velyets The accompany ing skirt may be of a chiffon broadcloth (this for dinner wear solely) of silk of almost any weave, of satin or velvet or brocade, only, and this is imperative. 1t must contrast with and not match the bodice jacket.
 In these the shoulder is broad, the sleeve extremely full, but ending its U,l- lowy career at or above the elbow. The fronts are turned back in revers to dis play an exquisite vest, and this is ruffied quite in the od-time style with real laces One might take the portraits of ''Le Grand Monarquer as inspiration for these exquisite confections; for it is the coats of the gentlemen of these periods rather than the gowns of the women that are copied for fair femininity of to- day.
 The little basque that goes with this coat is just as short or just as long as the figure of the wearer determines OF her fancy dictates. The slender girl will be sure to order those large pocket flaps on the hips: but her more generously de veloped sister would far better honor those .n the omission.
 And to be in keeping with the extrava- gance which Is the motif of those even ing jackets, the buttons must be exquisite specimens. There are some old paste de- signs which are pretty nearly worth
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19

dainty appearance and incidentally add much to its cost.
 The real Valenciennes, fine Cluny, Alen- con and all of the Brussels faces are in high vogue for these: and the exquisite Irish laces-the Limerick, Carrickmacross, Mountmelick, not to speak of the ex- quisitely fine Irish crochetings-are in great demand The Irish laces have this ono point of merit, and that is they are seldom or never copied in machine made limitations This alone would make them favored of those who, while they are will ing to pay the extremely high prices demr nded for those exquisite webs-what Dame Fashion smiles upon and Madame La Mode approves always takes an up- ward tendency in monetary value-are not willing to give 1t for something that can just as well be obtained in the imitation, the machine production which anyone may purchase for as many cents the yard as the real commands dollars. Here. perhaps, is the secret of the vogue of those Irish productions which, up to the present, have never been successfully initiated by mechanical process; one can tell at a glance the real thing from the imitation
 The new lingerie biouses follow the col larless style Indeed, to such ,an ex- tent does this mode prevail that many of them may be said to be almost decollete. The square. or Dutch neck, as so many term it. is quite favorite, and the lace edges this simply no fullness or rufiiing appearing at this point Others are furnished with a little chemisette to be tucked in when desired; and undersleeves are often made en suite with this. so that the low neck and half sleeve may be varied according to occasion or caprice.
 The surplice mode Is really quite a temptation to dispense with the collar altogether. The line of the throat is so exquisitey and yet so modestly displayed in this connection that one does not think at all of decollete effect when this is done.
 Of course, the very latest fad and fashion in sleeves appear on those charm ing conceits. Single puffs, double puffs, leg-of mutton designs, as well as tho fla miliar and well-tried shirt sleeve of vary ing degrees of fitness, all of these are in good standing. Only the cuff is deeper and more elaborate than before. That Is the sole change. The new cuffs have a little featherbone run in top and bottom, just the narrowest cording, this serving to hold the shape, and coming through the laundry without cracking or break ing, n fault that even the least fussy must find with whalebone whether eni- ployed split or whole.
 But it Is in it's guise as dinner or an evening jacket that the separate bodice reigns supreme. For dinner wear they are fashioned of rich brocades-they must all show some more or less proml- nent touch of metal. gold or silver
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19

their weight in gold, and some ena1neied buttons which exceed them in cost. Cut silver, nielio, jeweled and cameo buttons are all in the extreme of the mode, and 1t is no uncommon thing to have the buttons-they come In matched sets cost even more than the jacket itself, irrespective Of the cost of the real laces that go so far toward it's adornment-
 For evening wear there are some ex- quisite models which have the fronts and sides only to the waistiine-of course., there is that smart point in front-and the back extends In full sash like breadths quite to the hem of the skirt This is n mode that goes gaiiy with lace or gauge skirts-and they must be well distended with haircloth or featherbone at the hem-and is equally becoming to the petite and piquante beauty as to her tall and stately Junoesque sister,
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19

IT.
 complete possession of the fash
 llons Not having any equivalent word of their own, the French have borrowed the title from the English di- rect and without change, and now 1t is 'le costume de sport that leads all the rest In the rosted of fashions
 The season at the much-lauded Riviera being oyer the fair Parisienne-all the fashionable mondaines are Parisienne, for a part of the year, at any rate-De- takes herself northward, and the race meetings in and around Paris make de- lightful field for tic display of her new costumes and millinery.
 Not to be interested in outdoor sports Is to acknowledge ones self entirely out side the smart set in all classes of so- ciety Racing has always been the sport par excellence of the aristocracy, ana what Is countenanced and followed ny the classes is sure to be taken up by the masses. So 1t is quite the corroct thing to be seen at the races, and the uaily journals recount the number of fashion- ables present at each meeting, what they wore, where they went and who were m and of the party.
 So it is that gowns and costumes are especially designed by the arbiters or the mode to be worn in these smart sur roundings. Miladi may fare forth to les courses either in her own coach and four. in her auto, or, if she does not like to encounter the dust of the road, she goes quietly by train. But, no matter how she gets there, her one care IS to make an absolutely perfect picture Tn her surroundings when she does arrive.
 1t is the modes of the demi-tailleur that prevail at these smart meetings. The plain and severe tailor made IS adopted by those few who subscribe to the furore Anglais, as they term anglo mania in France. But these, 1t must be confessed, are few and far between, for the Parisienne of high degree spends mighty sum annually upon her gowns, and she very pardonably likes her gowns to justify their cost. So 1t is that what has come to be known as the demi-tail- leur is what is best accepted of the Parisienne, for dear to her heart Is just that touch of friliness, fussiness and dressiness which the plain and severe mode so painfully lacks.
 Silk, chiffon broadcloth, the chiffon fin ishes in sielienne and mohair the tiny checks and the unobtrusive plaids are among the very latest expressions of the mode. There is simply no one mode or fabric which can be said to prevail at the expense of another, and it is simply that-withins a certain range, of conrse-= ones individual preference or fancy may be indulged without resulting in gown
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19
That Fascinating Separate Bodice. Exquisite Designs for Drawing Room and Boudoir Wear

So far from the separate bodice being thing of the past, as so many of the fashion chroniclers would have us believe, never before in all of its lengthy and varied career has it presented itself so fascinatingiy. so bewitchingly and so triumphantly.
 From early morning to the dawn of the morning after 1t is on display. As coffee jacket it decks luxurious society for the morning .eye-opener" of strong coffee in bed or in the boudoir Here it is of the loosest and hufiest variety. sun pleated, accordeon pleated. or fashioned of alternate strips of ribbon and lace, and except for the yoke across the shoulders absolutely innocent of fitted lines or guise. An open throat and a
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19

tion was wise forethought, for if the little articles or toys must remain in mock" three or four days or a week their little owners will think more of being deprived of their treasures than even of paying the necessary five cents to release them and the toy comes out again with certain freshness that makes 1t doubly attractive
 Both parents should always remember that they must set a good example, and the servants should always be instructed to remember neatness as absolutely i'm nerafiye. Children are very quick at de fecting inconsistencies and would notice at once the fact that their elders were not practlcing what they were so sternly preaching.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19

on. Soon, by firmly adhering to the rule of demanding the ransom money. the articles coming to the room decreased, and the lesson was thoroughly taught to all the children, from the oldest ones away at college to the little maid of four years of age at home and mothers right hand" Outside the door there hung a slate with a pencil attached. and when any article was confscated the date was noted.
 certain time fixed for their deten-
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19

loose flowing sleeve, often 1t comes only to the elbow, or if 1t should extend below this, 1t is slit on the inner seam so that the white roundness of the arm is dis played.
 In the form of the lingerie blouse there is absolutely no limit to its extravagance. The finest and sheerest of handwoyen handkerchief linen is deemed none too good for its making; and all of the flmy real laces go to its adornment That it simply must be made by hand is now so well understood that to mention this fact seems superfuous. And not only are the real laces used with q lavish hand, but the most fine and exquisite of hand en- broideries executed upon the fabric it. self are called upon to supplement its
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19
A Three-Quarter Length Cloth Paletot

closely to the figure; all the remaining fuiness is then gathered into the waist band. over the hips and at the back. If the skirt is to be made of thin fabric, such as French beige serge or Bradford tweed, the lining can be scanned through with the material The circumference at the hem is about Az yards. It is, therefore. an elegant shape for outdoors. and as the extra fulness helps to display the mate rial. 1t will be advisable to chooss fabric that Is soft in texture.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19

It is difficult. as everyone who tries 1t knows. to teach children to keep their be longings in order or to be careful and neat: but when once the habit of neat ness Is inculcated 1t Is of inestimable value to the boy or girl in bis or her future life and well worth all the trou- ble incurred. An ingenious mother thought out an excellent plan. She made it an unalterable rule that there should be a place for everything and everything kept in it's place. Whenever any of the fam
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19

This is a serviceable style of coat for travelling. and the same design is also suitable for evening wear. The stole-shape collar could be of soft velvet or satin covered. with lace with cuffs to match. X broad piece of multi-color silk embroid- cry or jeweled passementerie might be arranged on the fronts in the manner suggested. or lace insertion might be pre- ferred. About A yards of 52-inch-w1de cloth or tweed would be sufficient to mako a full-size coat. If the garment Is to be
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19
How to Teach Children to be Neat.

fly found anything belonging to another member of it out of place they were at liberty to put it in "hock." The chan cery was a room kept locked and presided over by the mother. Every article enter ing there called for nickel to effect It's release. At first caps, slates, pencils. slippers came teeming in. and following them the money for release. and these formed a fund for purchasing something to promote tidiness-such as waste-paper baskets. paper racks. slipper cases and so
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19

made of a loosely woven material, 1t will have to be lined throughout with tartan flannel or quilted aatin. The garment is made to fit closely to the figure at the back, and side piece Is introduced each side. The seam down the center of back is left open from below the waist to give plenty of spring over the hips.
 When walking the opening can be kept closed by means of bodice clips. or but tons could be arranged invisibly. There are five pieces In the skirt The front sets
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19
Cold Water for Stains.

Cold water can do no harm to any ma teriai that Is washable. It will often re- move stains better than any other agent, and should be given the first chance, un- less in a case where 1t is known that it has DO power on the stain or that 1t Is not so good as. some other agent. It should always be used for blood stains, meat juice. white of egg or other ai- luminous substances.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19
Keeping silver Bright.

The secret of keeping bright the silver that is in constant use lies in washing IL in cleaH. hot suds and wiping 1t with clean, dry towel every time It -fs used- Silver that receives this treatment should need a thorough Nclean ming only once a month. little borax in the suds in which silver Is washed adds to the iustre.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19

SST E sport" has taken full and
 complete possession of the fash Ilons. Not having any equivalent
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-09-27
CHARGES AGAINST
 SMITH PREFERRED
THE POLICEMAN WILL BE GIVEN TRIAL BEFORE POLICE COMMlS- SION ON CHARGE OF HANDLING PRISONER ROUGHLY.

The police commission will determine whether or not Policeman w. A. Smith is a capable man to hold a position on the police force. Formal charges were made against him yesterday by Chief Wier and the trial will doubtless come up at the next meeting of the police commission. Rough treatment of a negro prisoner is the complaint, it being made on the state ments of J. B. Donaldson and J. H. Vaughn, two young men who were on a street car when the trouble occurred ten days ago.
 The charges were first preferred in police court and the case was called yes- terday by Judge Feagin. After hearing the testimony of Donaldson and Vaughn, Judge Feagn said he thought 1t was a case for the police commission and direct ed that the witnesses place the facts in the hands of Chief Wier. He said he did not desire to pass judgment for fear that his opinion might have weight with the commission in the event charges were made after the trial
 Smith is said to have arrested negro, John Williams, who was stealing ride on an Idlewld car. The negro is said 10 have offered to fight and the policeman used the butt end of his revolver to beat the negro over the head. The conductor saw the trouble from first to last and says the policeman was justified in what he did.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-09-27
ALTMAN-P

The marriage of Miss Adelaide Beatrice Altman and MT. John Edward Peck took place yesterday morning at the family residence on Avenue H and Twenty-fifth street.
 The entire lower floor was beautifully decorated in golden rod and other cut flowers. The bride entered the drawing room with the groom, where the ceremony was performed by the Rev. MT. Bryan. pastor of the Third Presbyterian church. She wore a black going-away gown with a touch of white and a smart black toke. Little Miss Francis Adele Woodrow, the flower girl. wore dainty white firock and preceded the bride and groom. Pro- lessor Grambs played the wedding march. MT. and Mrs. Peck left at once for Chi eago and other points.
 Mrs. Peck is a daughter of the late Col. J. J. Altman and Mrs. Altman, and has many friends in Birmingham and throughout the state, who will be h. terested in her marriage. Mr. Peck is one of Birminghams rising young men who has made many friends in the city.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-09-27
TIE FASHION OUTLOOK FOR 1908.


 Most attractive are the advance designs for the autumn and winter. and from present indications it would seem as though the first fashions would not re- quire the modifying that has generally to be carried out in order to make the styles becoming and not too conspicuous, says Harper's Bazar.
 As Is always the case when the new fashions are first exhibited. there is much to admire. much to wonder at, and some thing to criticise. Sleeves are. as 1t were, tentative-of medium size in many in- stances. of exaggeratedly large or small size in others
 Again erinoline is threatened In the width of the skirts, which, to the unini- tiated glance, seem surely to require arti- fcial means to hold them out The initia- ted realize, however that the wonderful cut and hang of these skirts answer every purpose of the crinoline, and the flare is gained without it. When petticoats measure not less than eight yards around the foot. 1t is certain that the skirts of the gown must be of corresponding width; but both pettieoat and skirt fit close around the hips, and have the fitness at the back in the becoming inverted pleats.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-09-27
NOTES AND PERSONALS.

MT. c. F. Mattison. who has been the turned from New York and are now oe- cupying their home on Sycamore street Mrs c. F. Madison, who has been the guest of friends in the city, has returned to his home in Montgomery.
 MT. and Mrs Robert Newman have re- turned from St. Louis, where they were recently married and are at home at SIS North Nineteenth street.
 MT. and Mrs. Sydenham Moore have re- turned from North Carolina and are the guests of their daughter, Mrs. ". P. G. Harding, at Glen Iris Park. Miss Mamie and Miss Alice will remain in North Car olina several weeks longer.
 Mir. and Mrs. Walter Gardner will occu- py one of the scruggs flats on Twelfth avenue after October |
 Mrs. Arthur Moody has returned to Tuscaloosa. Miss Charlotte Williams of Memphis, who has been the guest of MT. and Mrs. F. H. Lathrop, is now the guest of Miss Catherine Conner.
 Miss Elise Donaldson has returned to her home in Memphis.
 
 Miss Millie Nabb Is in Indianapolis. Miss Abbie Searcy who has been the guest of MT. and Mrs. James T. Hayes. Miss Sadie and Miss Kathleen Hayes, Miss Alice and Miss Bee Majors left few days ago for the Portland exposition. After spending several weeks there they will spend the winter and spring in Los Angeles and the City of Mexico. Miss May and Miss Eloise Norton left Wednesday for Seattle. Wash.
 
 Mrs. l. W. Starr ond son Leo of Nash vile. Tenn. is visiting her mother, Mrs. E. c. Starr. on Third avenue
 
 Mss Mamie Martin who is the guest of her sister. Mrs Richard Leland, in Tus- caloosa.
 Miss Lizzie Morris Mason Is on her way to New York, where she will enter MISS MdSoll 2 dl airy Hudson.
 MT. Hudson Barker left few days ago for Pennsylvania, where he will en- ter school.
 The many friends of MT. Forney John ston who has been suffering from an at tack of fever, will be glad to learn he Is rapidly recovering.
 MT. and Mrs. Harry Matthews will oc- cupy house on South Fourteenth ave- inue, near Twentieth street, after Octo- Der l.
 Dr. Lewis c. Morris has returned from New York. where he read a paper before the American Chronological society.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-09-27
BIG GENERATOR IS
 CRIPPLED AT PLANT
ACCIDENT PREVENTS B. R., L. & p. co. RUNNING EXTRA CARS DUR- ING THE RUSH HOURS .sF THE DAY.

Owing to one of the large railway gen. orators at the power house of the Bir- mingham Railway, Light and Power company being burnt out several days ago the company has not been able to run the usual extra cars during the rush hours for several days past.
 The smaller generators were put into service and an accident happened to one of them yesterday, further crippling the company. Complaints have been made by the public in the past few days that the company was not running a suffi- cient number of cars to accommodaL. (. the travel. When asked about the mat ter yesterday General Manager Emery said:
 Tt Is not because the company will not run the extra cars or because we do not desire to run them but one of the large generators burnt out and ar accident has happened to one of the smaller ones. This prevents us from putting on extra cars during the rush hours every day.
 An expert has arrived in the city from the plant of the Gneral Electric company at Schnectady. N. Y, and he Is making the necessary repairs as rap Idly as possible. It will require several days longer to repair the big generator but the work is being pushed day and night"
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-09-27
BIRD RETURNS HOME.
Canary Escaped From Thief and He'
 turns to It's Former Home.

Mrs. Ben Oldham of 2S2o Avenue G has recovered her pet canary bird. It man. aged in some mysterious may to get loose from it's captor negro. who ventured into the house Sunday night and took bird, cage and all, and directed Its flight back to the house where it had chirped for many months. Mrs. Oldham dlscov- cred 1t perched on top of picture frame in the hallway yesterday
 Many conJectures are made as to how the bird escaped. Some are of the opinion that the negro read the account of the theft in the Age-Herald and was afraid to attempt to sell it. This theory llnally became general, and il is supposed the negro saw no other course except swing the bird its liberty It is supposed the age was destroyed.
The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-09-27
REGULAR MEETINGS. Elks VIII Hold Session Every Tuesday right This Winter.

The regular weekly meetings of the Bir- mingham lodge. Benevolent Protective Or der of Elks. commenced last night. and will be held every Tuesday night through the winter.
 The meetings were not held during the summer. as many of the members of the lodge were out of the city. The lodge has several important matters to ar range this winter and great deal of in terest will probably be manifested in the meetings.
 Refreshments were served after the meeting last night. The attendance was large and the members stated that they were ready to take up the winters work of the lodge.