Evening star., 1905-10-28
VELVET AND CLOTH COATS.

slightest and most graceful figures, some
of the latest French models have taken on
quite a charming skimpnesS of cut. A
travelling coat illustrated displays this in
the way the skirt portion of the coat is
fitted in to the figure at the waist line.
The short-waisted body cut suggests lit
tie bolero, and upon the skirt three heavily
stitched bands form a stylish trimming.
The small sleeves are shorter even than
elbow length and odd buttons are made of
cloth covered molds set in rim of metal.
The material of this coat is pale brown
masNc cloth, with chestnut brown velvet
for collar and cuffs.
An Empire model In more conventional
design is of pruneile face cloth (wild plum
blue), with a crossed surplice trimming of
folds and cut-out cloth The last is en-
broidered and trimmed with the deep
prunelie velvet, which forms the incroyable
collar and cuffs.
Both Long and Short.
The Empire cut for long coats, as well as
for short jackets of coat-gowns, will doubt
lessly be tremendously exploited as the
season advances. Numberless are the
variations upon the style, which includes
all lengths from the tiniest little hip coat
to one which IS almost skirt long. An even
three-quarters length is the most popular
one, with the skirt OF the coat sometimes
slashed at the sides to accommodate the
lifting of the gown skirt, which must be
wraps.
Definitely smaller as are all sleeves in
tight-httinS coats, carriage and evening
wraps on the dOIman and opera cape order
are, so TO speak, all sleeves That is, the
arm coverings, many of which are cut in
the garment take up vast lengths of ma
terial, SO that the whole effect Is one of
great lOOSeneSs and grace. The sleeves of
automobile and all storm coats are neces-
sarily big, but care is taken there, too, not
10 have the effect too clumsy. But for the
matter of that, there Is TO be a taboo of all
exaggeration and SrotesqueneSs in automo-
bile attire, and already the Smartest women
descend from their machines looking quite
like ordinary human beings. The greatest
change is the substitution of draped hats
for the old trying caps and hoods, and with
the addition of a veil these can be made
very captivating. A smart automobile get
up illustrated displays a coat of dull red
rainproof cloth with a hat of showerproof
silk in the same tint. The quill and rosettes
at the side of the hat are of doeskin, for so
capricious is fashion that even the feathers
of birds are simulated by pressed and wired
materials. The stimulation is clumsy, but
the very clumsiness adds TO the style.
Rainproof and Lasting.
For rough automobile and driving wear
rainproof stuff coats are more to the fore
than the old leather and rubber models, the
overheatng qualities of which were de-
cfdedIy against them. The materials of
these are very handsome and the colors
rich and lasting, and those who object to
weight get the lighter qualities and have
them made up with silk Innings.
For riding academy purposes English
great coats are shown by one or two i'm
porters. with quite the severe cut of the
masculine garment. These are in quiet
tones smoke or iron gray or black, with
only a relieving note in the fur collar,
which may be of any handsome skin.
The larger drawing gives one of these
coats, an iron gray wool with handsome
mink collar.
Most charming are the handsome velvet
coats for children, which are made up pic
turesquely and worn with stunning feath-
cred hats An imported coat Of "bleu
lavee" (washed or faded blue) velvet demon
strates in the larger picture one effective
style for a girl of eight. The soft silk en-
pIoyed for the girdle is in the same tone,