Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-07
NEW DRESS TRIMMINGS.
Pretty Contrast Strikes the Key Note
in Most.

Written for The Star.
Contrast sounds the keynote in the sym
phony of winter trimmings. A thousand
harmonics of hand embroidery, applique and
machine-made braids and bindings, which
simulate handwork, will set off the rich
tone house and street gowns of 1905-1906.
The fad for English eyelet work, which
ragged SO furiously on summer linens, re-
appears In both broadcloth and silk trim
mings. Where somber hens once finished
broadcloth skirts and coats the more festive
scallop In self-tone a direct contrast Is
the winters approved finish, and If inside
each scallop appears g. bit of the eyelet
work the gown has the final touch of
smartness.
The puffy bullions which made last sea-
sons winter raiment so bunglesome have
given place almost entirely in wool fabrics
to the broderie Anglais bands, and many
of the box patterns In popular tones OF
broadcloth show machine eyelet work which
defes all but the expert in Dame Fashions
DEGREES.
Jeweled effects decidedly reminiscent of
altar cloths, are frequently introduced into
this handwork on cloth costumes, and
they are particularly striking when done
on the rich purple and plum shadings which
are features of the season
In applique. self-tone velvet set off by
embroidered designs, Interviewing colored
silks and soutache braids, VIII be used. For
instance, a long box coat in a peculiar rich
shade of tan will have collar, cuffs and
pocket flaps of deeper brown velvet set
OF by feur-de-lis or military ornaments in
gold bullion.
But it is in the broadcloth applioues
upon broadcloth that the wondrousiy har-
monious contrasts are shown AS an ex-
ample of this. brown cloth suit will have
a deep trimming of harmonious green
broadcloth appliques. held in place by hand
work of bronze SILK which shades alter
nately into the green and the brown. Odd
browns are appliqued upon brilliant reds,
Persian and Chinese blues, blend exquisite
~, subtle greens and gold and white are
combined riotously on reception, house and
evening frocks as well as on dressy coats
OF all sorts.
Brilliant Effect.
most brilliant effect is secured by COM
bining MACHINERY wrought braids with heavily
incrusted appliques in nouveau art design.
A house gown of old rose supple broad
cloth shows a heavy border in modified
Greek design of black silk novelty braid,
and rising from each square appears an
applique in soft Persian colorings. rose
green, blue and yellow, cleverly done by
machine.
trimming popular for vests is a heavy
machine embroidery so thick as to suggest
fur or plush This is in colors contrasting
with the gown and set off by more deli
cately embroidered scroll work.
Cream lace and even deeper tones shad-
ing to ecru have supplanted the dead white
in vogue for summer dresses. An Argen-
tine lace showing lattice work with medal
lions inset is extremely popular. Cluny
lace appears wraps and cloth dresses,
while a lace which is really maline net
overlaid with lace patterns will enjoy
vogue for evening. Rose chiffon Is an ex-
quisite new candidate for favor which prom
ises to be too delicate to become very COM
mon.
In trimmings to be made at home quill
lngs and ruchings will still be used. Lace
medallions. of which the French know the
greatest possibilities, viii appear on even
ing and dressy frocks. These require in
sertion, beading and lace edging to give
the full French effect. as the Partisan work.
er never joins the edging and insertion ex-
ing principle motif figure with most
delicate colorings