Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1905-08-17
new YORK FASHION LETTER
Revolt against the Bizarre Little llaf
Some Of the Flower Trim.
med Hats Very Large.

New York, Aug. 11:-The revolt
against the bizarre little hat. so UNI
becoming to the women not con-
structed upon the Vatican plan and
sorencible with any simple style of
so irreconcilible with any simple
style of hairdressinE. was bound
to come. and The height of
the Paris season found more
big hats than small accompany
ing the elaborate toilets. though the
little tiptilted hats still crowned
some pretty heads belonging to FASH
ion leaders. and the great crowd still
chung to the extreme type of small
hat which come in with the spring
modes.
One must admit hat some Of the
large hats are as extreme in their
own way as the small ones, for they
are often turned up sharply on one
side and set upon the head at an
angle that make demands upon the
coiffure quite as great as those made
by he tiny hat cccentrically perch
ed. Still, even at it's worst. the large
hat is hardly as deplorablc il carica-
ture in connection with the average
face as is the jaunty little millinery
freak of the earlier season. and. in
rational form, it is generally becom-
ing and picturesque.
For the gaden party and other out
of door fctes the large hat is pre-
cmincntly tho thing, though the little
hat may often lend itself more salts
factorily to the tailored costume, the
morning frock, the indoor occasion;
and it was at the out of door re-
unions during the Paris season that
the big hat came into its own.
The black picture hat was not so
much in evidence as of old, although
it was worn and in many instances
set off a toilet as no other hat could.
Large hats all in one color or in
shades of one color and often being
the only vivid motto in a toilet O..
white or neutral tint were numerous
and the plumod trimmed hats were
chiefly in this genre, though tho
flower laden hats often minglcd
many colors.
The big hat of erin. heavily load
ed with short plumcs, was parti-
cularly fancied and had usually a rak-
ish flare at n side and pronounce
ed drop at the other. while the back
was manipulated so as to fit the
couture with comparative closeness.
If not turned up sharply. The de-
cidcd crown. If not the excessively
high crown, also rcappeared after the
its tentative debut last season, and
there seems once moro to be ii
chance that the comparatively high
crown will reign supreme, though it
to b, 40 r,n,,c ttD -nIo -I to-
been taken up only by the ultra mo-
dish.
One handsome long plume is some
times utilized in place of many
short ones, and this trimming with a
somewhat dropping orim suits some
faces better than more audacious
lines.
Crin-which means horsehair-
has perhaps the first place as mater
ial for the plume trime hats, but all
of the popular straws arc used as
well. and hats of Lace. chiffon, etc,
plume trimmed, are many. The all
white and all black hats loaded
with beautiful plumes are very
lovely. but the Parisicnne usually
prefers a note of color and the white
hats are likely to be frightened by
feathers Of vivid green. blue or
mauvc.
Flax or periwinkle blue. old rose.
green and mauv horsehair or straw
with plumes of the same tint are the
feather trimmed ats most often
seen. but very stunning effects are
secured In the copper browns and
grays. Velvet ribbon to match the
plumes In color is tho usual accom-
paniment of the feathers, and one
sees large hats sporting both
feathers and flowers. though this
idea Is more often exploited In the
small hats with their rakish punches
of tips standing out at Unexpected
angles.
The flower trimmed hats are of a
variety to beggar description and a
few of them are very large. but as a
rule the extreme size Is left to the
plume trimmed hats; and the flower
trimmed picture hats. while not of
necessity belonging to the diminutive
class launched In the spring. are mo-
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