The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-23
GRAY AND GREEN FOR MEN.
NEW WRINKLES THIS SEASON IN
MASCULINE STYLES.

Wan - POINTS Tor inc FhbGuious'
II may not be true. a. q Jealous blond
complained the other day in The sUN, that
! all the styles are now designed for black
| haired, dark eyed men. with nothing espe-
oiAlly smart for the moro colorleas TO wear.
! Tho styles this spring are most becoming,
nevertheless, TO the dark man.
A salloW blond may say TO himself, 4
would rather be smart than beautiful and
intend 10 wear what Ia the last cry Of chic
In mems dross, whatever may look like
30 viii wear a grayish green suit, q green
neoktie and q pale, coffee oolorSd linen
shirt II Il makes me look like q lemon
nhs cares moro about being In the fashion
than looking his best, he viii be able 10
wear smart clothes as well as the dark
eyed man who looks his best In q green
suit.
Green has held its own now for two years
a. the smartest color man can wear.
This spring the shops arc filed with green
cloths, hannels miIed with gray, pale
bluish RfGys, and also pale blush green's
for summer outing suits. Green ties hang
In the shop windows, and there are ooca-
slonally such extravaganoes 90 pale green
ribbons for straw hats,
The only color that disputes the Gsoen-
dAnoy Of green Il pale gray. It looks well
on ell men with dark eyes and hair. But
hight gray Il q very trying color 70 men
who have not high color,
The pale ecru shirts are equally dis
astrous 10 the beauty Of the blond. The
vogue Of brown lasted for two years and
was so virilent finally that few brown
giits are to be found In any Of the tailors'
shops. They at least enabled the blond
man to be In the fashion and also look his
best.
whatever the color Of a coat may be, II
must be cut longer than ever. The sack
coats fall we'll below the hips. This Is not
a becoming fashion for short or stout men,
but It s the most important detail In the
cut Of a coat this season.
Trousers are still very loose, but there
lie a tendency, brought from London this
spring, TO cut clothes closer 20 the figure than
they have been for the last two years
Some OF the London tailors are sending
over suits that might almost be called tight.
Few OF these have been seen as yet, and
Il will be a good season or two before they
are aoolimated in New York. Waistcoats,
which are still cut little higher than the
opening in the coat, are worn with collars
II they are Of the same material as the rest
OF the suit. Otherwise they are braided
and without collars.
All but sack coats are edged with braid,
whether they be made Of diagonal OF not.
The tails Of the walking or cutaway coat
are shorter than they were and the whole
tendency Is to make these coats look
smaller.
Frook coats, which are also edged with
braid, are not so loose as they were year
ago, when they were as loose as dressing
gowns. Now they are as long as ever,
but tighter.
These dress coats are made Of fine di-
aRonal or Of a smooth cashmere.
The dinner coat Is changed only as the
sack coats are. II is much longer, is still
made with the roll collar and like the sack
coat Is cut square In front.
Full dress coats are rarely made at this
time Of the year, as mPn wait for the autumn
TO order them. There will be no change In
style then. the tailorS say, beyond the ten
dencv 10 make the clothes bit tighter.
In the dress waistcoats there Is most
difference TO be noted. In the first place.
the day Of the double breasted waistooat
for full dress Is past. Wastcoats are
single breasted and the tips are pointed,
the bottom Of the waistooat being no longer
rounded as Il formerly was.
Sometimes the walstooat has as many
a. Ave buttons. In nearly every case
the white waistooats are worn with buttons
that match the studs and the cum buttons
These may be Of infinite variety, ranging
from pearl, through amethyst and tur-
quoise 70 simple mother OF pearl.
The black evening dress waistcoat has
become 30 useless that few men ever buy
one when they order a dress suit. For
the few occasions on which It is worn, the
Waistoost that Il worn with dinner coat
serves perfectly.
In ordering a dress suit most men order
the white linen wais tooats There are
few times when a black waistcoat may be
worn with long tailed dress coat.
II used 10 be said that only men In mourn
ing who had black neckties and black studs
could appropriately wear black waistcoats,
and that is about the present limit Of the
usefulness Of the black waistcoat. All
waistooats arc pointed now on the inside
and at the ends.
Waistcoats never did form such deco
ratiye part Of mems dress 9s they do this
summer They are ell braided, and some
Of them embroidered with the monogram
Of the wear er on the watch pocket.
There are blue waistooats trimmed with
white braid, white waistooats edged with
broad black braid and biscuit oolored linen
waistooats have black braid and even the
white nannes striped with blue and black
are braided.
The fashion has already been so much
overdone that II may not last. The braided
waistcoats do not last we'll as the braid
soon wears through. The very fancy
waistcoats that are not oTnAmented with
braid this summer are those intended for
wear with evening dress-
The long coats Of rough gray cloth with
velvet collars and turned back cuffs Of
the rough material are the most attractive
new garments that the tailors are designing
for men this spring. They are nearly
always made Of gray material aid only in
the lighter shades are they distlnctiVely
novel
In the darker hues Of gray and brown
IN which they are sometimes made up
they are ineffective. One in a tan oolored !
SCOTCH tweed with a velvet collar was made !
up by a Fifth avenue tailor with a velvet |.
COLLAR Of almost the same shade and with |
the cuffs turned back. II was nearly as
smart Rs the gray coats, but the new gar |
menta are most distinctive In that shade.
They are not cut In 10 the figure az all, |
but fall loosely from the shoulder. They |
come almost 70 the top Of the shoe and are /
very useful for driving or on very mild |
days for motoring In town whers there |
are no long and dusty runs In prospect.
They can be WON with full dress on these |
spring evenings and are especially useful 1
IN the country. They are not always lined, /