New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1905-04-02
Paris, March "a

Paris, March "a
The craze OF borrowing from historical modes
a. far as daytime gowns are concerned seems to
b on the wane. One sees fewer Directoire and
Louis XIV coats or, at least, the salient features
OF these garments are less conspicuously intro
duced into modern apparel than was the q
few months ago. But IN regard 70 evening gowns
historical ideas not only freely borrowed. but
absolutely and infinitely copied The Paris
couturlers no longer give the idea that they have
bean studying the portraits in the old museums for
inspiration, but that they have been there with
the photographer. literally the modes OF
che PompadOur and Marie AntOinette periods re-
produced IN their modern WorkrOoms.
Naturally they do not copy the exaggerated
skirts OF that period, but In other respects the
skirts are about the same, and bodices, even to
the circumference OF the tapering Waistl,ne. are
quite like those worn by the beauties Of the court
Of Versailles. 1t has often boastfuly been said
that the modern woman not only would not but
could not. lace; that her figure. brought up under
proper hygienic conditions, was not susceptible Of
compression But present indications would seem
% prove this a fRlacy.
certain dressmaher. well known a designer
OF advanced modes, is trying hard TO make the
pn1nier effects a success with his customers. and
he shows thu most exquisite models on which this
idea Is used. One OF his creations Is gown Of
palest yellow silk muslin and Alencon lace in much
the same shade made up with panniers Of brighter
yellow brocade. The skirt. or rather the under
petticoat, IL entirely OF mousseline de sole inset
Eltn the lace ana trimmed With deep lace rune
headed with twists OF yellow satin ribbon and
small yellow roses. The bodice and train which
loops into panniers the hips, is OF the brocade
the lines OF the train softened by Jabots OF lace.
The front Of the bodice is OF lace and is trimmed
prOfusely with small yellow roses.
A PARTISAN GOWN.
Another gown in which the pannier idea is used
is OF blue mOussene de sole and baby blue Liberty
satin. The entire gown. with the exception Of the
panners and the train. is OF the mousseline
dc sole. and is trimmed with rufIies Of blue silk
ribbon painted in POmpadOur designs This extrava-
CANT OF painted ribbon is simply aceentua-
ton Of the present fashion OF using rufed ribbon
me plain Liberty ribbons are most useful in this
way and there are delicately printed Pom
Dadour fashions that almost as attractive as the
eEtravagant garniture on this gown.
The Pompadour corsage seems 10 be almost uni
Versally used for evening gowns but in its severe
form it IS not suitable to very young girls. How
ever. there many pretty ways Of softening il
ana stl preserving the close pointed waistne. A
rose pink gown Of an embroidered muslin has
high, plain corselet belt of pink satin. The soft
stun Is draDed about this and pulled up in front
like little close draped bolero About the decoI-
ietage many fuffy rufies OF pink gauze and the
drapery is attached here with falling strands Of
rosebuds The sleeve makes a small high pun on
the shoulder, and is shirred On the outside of the
arm TO finish in a rUfHe just above the elbow The
line OF stirring is decorated with the carelessly
eTfanEed flowers ihe run skirt IS ornamented with
hounces. pUffs and tucks taken I'm the stuff itself,
separated BY nat bands Of pink satin.
The fashion Of short. close sleeves which has been
Introduced during the winter reaches its fullest
development the spring models On This one
point ipe drossmsSers seem be united-that there
shall 10 the least possible amount Of material used
20 the sleeves, and that they shall end quite free
IN the elbow. There is apt 10 be a little puff at
the shoulder. a pun that rises rather than stands
out and then the sleeve Is tightly shirred 10 the
arm 10 end In equally close cuff. The Gun is
sometimes split 10 show fan a line OF lace or
Il may have some other trimming 10 soften and
decorate H. but for street at least the fall
ing elbow RUNE seems wholly discarded. OF course,
these sleeves met by long. much-Wfinkled gloves,
and for the moment, at least. they are covered by
outside wraps, but the long sleeve seems he quite
discarded for any gown except the tailored skirt
and coat suit.
CLOSE UNDERsLEEVEs.
In some cases little close undersleeve is intro
Huced which may cover the elbow but this Is gen.