The Topeka state journal., 1905-10-08

In general effect the lines of gar
ments are not greatly changed, skirts
remaining the two lengths of the
summer. and bodices continuing the
look of coquetry which the fussy short
sleeves and dainty vest effects give.
But there are new touches without
number, and perhaps the most inn
portant of these is the revival of the
draped skirt Many tunic effects are
observed and some are so suggestive of
the old time overskirt as to need the
merest looping at the sides to be one.
The model of one consists of a gored
lining finished with a shape flOunce,
and hung with a round tunic of circu-
lar cut. The tunic fits at the back
without pleats and the bottom, which
may be hemmed or trimmed, reaches
to the top of the hounce. The effect
OF this skirt therefore, is that of
double hounce, and the model is in
two lengths, one trained, the other
quite short.
other skirts are draped only at the
sides, with a shaped hounce, maybe,
finishing the drop there, and the skirt
falling voluminOusly all round.
In fact there are few skirt models
which show a medium course. They
are either short enough to display in
its entirety the most dapper footwear
or else the fall upon the floor is exag-
geratedly long. Happily, American
women have learned at last the proper
handling Of such petdcoats. In Paris,
no matter how long the skirt, it is
never lifted in the street, trailing
hounces swimming across sidewalks
with delicious unconcern. Only one
thing is considered-the sun must shine
when s71ch fOlderOlS are worn.
Another quite important feature OF
the new STYLES is the empire coat Tor
tailor gowns. Made of plain satin
cloth, strapped or plainly stitched, or
of English or Scotch tweeds, such en-
pire coat frOcks are very dashing,
though the style semes more to suit
plain cloth and velvet than the less
elegant materials. The skirts OF the
long coat are very full but no matter
how solid the texture Of the gown the
sleeves follow the prevailing elbow
cuts
ssThese short sleeves a wen known
French maker of styles gives out, ARE
so elegant and graceful that they must
necessarily distinguish the smartest
winter costumes. When they are finally
replaced. it may be for the long Wriakled
Theodore sleeve, which Bernhardt made
fashionable. We use the Theodore con-
tinually for tea gowns and all sorts Of
graceful house tOilettes."
In textures, MORE corduroy is novel
sickness to the eye, and in soft shades
OF brown it is beautifully effective with
sable and mink furs. These skins, by
the way, with a revival of chinchilla,
In combination with splendid laCes for
evening use, are again to be the winter
eavorites, and since muffs are enor-
rnously big. and a number of the bOas
rrodigiously long, it naturally follows
that eurs will be dear. Chinchilla skins
are especially scarce, and only those
which show the velvety markings are
approved. With some oe the smaller
uade-up sets there is again a tendency
TO employ milliner trimnings-lace falls.
ribbon ruches. rosettes. etc.-With the
ends Of the neckpiece treated with a
fussy grace of ribbon. Many of the
long boas finish with a single great
tan. a rosette of lace and an artificial
rose showing in some cases at the left
bust.
such boas viii again be worn to a
Great extent around the shoulders man
tina fashion. A deep fall Of black lace
over white distinguished the shoulder
portion OF a splendid boa in silver fox,
the fronts of which had quite a man
fflla grace, crossing at the waist, where
black and white rosettes were placed
E)ressmakers' use of broadtan this
eaT Is quite remarkable. This tender
and silky skin, which is as expensive
ae lt IS delicate, is extravagantly en-
nIovad Sor elaborate wraps and even