The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-09-09
the shopkeepers are most obliging.

lcS, ana on sundays the congregation overflows into the churchyard, the peo- pie kneeling under the trees their earnest eyes fixed on priest and altar within the sacred edifice. It is the faith of the Middle Ages still burning bright, and the faces of the women re- veal their inner quietude. Nor are men lacking in these crowded congrega- tions.
 As in all strongly Catholic towns in Mexico, there is general courtesy. One notices this fact also in Morelia, a considerable city, where much defer ence is paid tho clergy. A very arch i've of courtesy. is Morelia.
 Politeness, consideration for ones fellows, results, one must think, from leisure, from habit of reverence, and good heart, have noticed in all the so-called clerical towns how well-bred are the people and how kindly their ways with the stranger withing their gates. We may bring here new creeds new formulas, but we shall never be able to improve on the fine old man ners inherited from generations of de- Vout people trained to obedience and 1 reverence.
 In all this State of Michoacan the Catholic Church is very powerful. the rich hacendados are strong churchmen, and the churches are often noble and stately edifices. The great and potent figure in these parts is the archbishop of Mjchoacan, Dr. Silva, who resides in Morelia, great-hearted prelate, with truly apostolic love of the poor and humble Of this good man many | pleasant stories are told. He is learn ed, charitable, and practical, His life is a shining example to all his clergy. Here in western Mexico the land is good, there is much wealth, and many notable estates. It is a region of great charm, with its great mountains and lakes, some of them destined, at a fu- ture day, to be noted resorts,e but now quite solitary, and having the charm
 of wilderness. One lake that comes into view as the train rolls along from Patzcuaro is, for sheer loveliness, the most enchanting sheet of water I have ever seen. It surely should allure I some artist to transfer its charm to canvas.
 l This part of Mexico is described in
 the old books of travel, and I believe that Mime. Calderon de la Barca visit ed Uruapan, -Patzcuraro, and Morelia, which in her time was quite at it is to- day, a city of viceregal aspect, noble and imposing.
 | The poole here are given to an al fresco life. They lounge about under the arcades, they sit under the shade
 trees in the plazas and stnd in shop
 doors to take the air. The poorer peo- pie breakfast and take supper in the open. Children flourish greatly, and families are of the Roosevelt size, for race suicide is a thing unknown. One sees among the poor some pallid, anae- mic people, but they are from the un-
 healthy rice fields down in the hotter
 country. Coming up here they gain | tsrength, ," .'
 One must not look for dainty food and splendid hotels here. You may take lodgings at an inn and go out to a fonda for your meals. The mafnstay of the fondista is chicken. One eats chicken, with delicious salad, eggs.
 bread and, of course drinks coffee ad
 lib. And ones appetite grows with the good air and exercise, All is most primitive, beds, chairs, tables, and
 service. ;
 Devotees of the simple life will be enchanted. I should say that a family With $100 silver month would be na- bogs. Yet there is wealth here among a few families, though there is not the
 slightest social ostentation. The com munity is very democratic.
 l One comes to. a place like this not to find what may be had in the Federal capital the somewhat tiresome cos- mopolitanism of the times which re- dures everything in a tedious sameness. What is more wearisome than a so- ' ciety whose members have been every where, and are overcultivated? Time ! comes when the nice people, bore, when Culture" drives to desperation. These very charming people all talk alike. You press the right button and get the conventional article of conver- | sation."
 This may be the mood of the mo- ment, for at times one hanEers for the roughnesses of life, for the plain sort of humanity, leading the natural and p1UFlllICdl lILe' oO IL COItleS dDOuL Lndt ] to look upon sturdy Indian, his men l tai horizon no wider than his native valley, is refreshing. He is as sound 1 as an apple, as honest as rock. For the traveller who wants to see | cld-fashiond Mexico, and yet not get too far away from the centre of things this western region Is a capital place | to visit. Not for a long time, but, say a
 week. Ii, affords 9 glimpse of the na- tural man, and the, very natural 'wo- man; of lakes and mountains, of pri- mitive commerce; of a contented peo- pie and life that flows as tranquility as that of interior China ', F. The sophisticated tourist will, per- haps, not like it, but for those who have learned that four-fifths' of our wants are artificial it will be enjoyable 1 to visit Michoaoan. Here are Indians who haughtily decline to be made over on the accepted models who per sist in talking in their own language, who have no love for the Aztecs, and stay at home,@-F. !tR. Guernsey in Boston Herald.' < !1<
 4------4------------4-zzGa-Z----
 MISSISSIPPI sEANTYs. BOATS. s--------=- stt F