The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-03-19
TO TEMPT TIE EPICURE.
Dishes That Add n nest TO Dinner in the
Restaurants.


Wise restaurant keepers have learned
the great importance Of starting of a din
ner in Rprotzing fashion and attach more
importance than ever TO the hors d'puvre
that are supposed 10 prepare the stomach
after the fashion Of a soils cocktail for
what is to follow. Perhaps some Of them
realize that il these daintias are tempting
enough at the table d'hote, they may be
consumed In such quantities that less din
ner may be needed. At all events, they
try nov 10 appeal 10 every taste. Caviar.
which used to be black and salty paste
several years ago, with no other taste
than a strong suggestion Of shoe polish.
may now be enjoyed as much here as in
St. Petersburg. The large eggs are sepa-
rate and distinct, grayish brown in color
and strong in the peculiar flavor Of fresh
caviar.
French oysters are to be had now in
many places, and even New Workers, weary
Of tie more or less tasteless local varieties,
find the more pungent and slightly me.
tallic flavor Of the French oyster 70 good
that they watch the arrival Of the French
steamers and turn up in time TO get them
fresh at the restaurants that import for
their patrons the oysters from the most
popular French beds. Sole is another
fish that brings regular patrons to the
French restaurants in the wake Of the
steamers, just as the seekers al er
Camembert cheese turn up Some Of the
restaurants that make a specially Of nsils
arran sc to have them on the bills Of fare
as plat du jour the day after every steamer
arrives. II Ia possible now with the swift
steamers coming also from Cherbourg to
get these delioacies almost every day, and
there is none Of the appetizlng waiting for
them that used to be necessary a few years
ago.
None Of these delioacies IL very exotic
or precious, like birds' nest soup or nightin-
gales tongues, but they cost sometimes .
comfortable price, for all their simplicity.
Caviar retails az s. a tin holding enough
for ten persons. The price used TO DO
81, but the war sent up the rate. and
1t Is likely TO go still higher Oysters
and snais are certainly not rare, but they
bring high prices because the New Yorker
who cate well does not care how simple his
article may be so long as il is the best But
il must be the best. Apples seem simple
enough, and the street stands are full Of
them. But there are special shipments
from Oregon that retail for high prices. The
highest priced apple in the worlds this from
the West. and the entire output does
not exceed fifteen carloads. These are sent
20 epicures the world over, and in view Of the
supply limit il is no wonder that the price
is so high Celery sometimes goes up TO
81 a bunch. but it Is possible.now to get il
at all times Of the year without paying
such a price. The best OF Michigan celery
Is brought TO New York by one dealer who
sells nothing else. This is time Of speciali-
cation in food, as in everything else. and
this enterprising MichiRander saw that he
would have to deal only In celery if he
wanted to control the best Of the New York
trade. He came 20 New York, and then il
became apparent that celery need not be
eaten only at one season Of the year but
could be had at all times. Il still appears
more frequently on the table in winter
but il may be had in excellent condition
at any time of the year