The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-08-27

tho dresamAkeH docs not begin until Octo-
Dor, and 1t Is hardly possible to order ones
GOLD weather outfit wisely before tho latter
part Of that month.
One new frook Ii however, q desirable
and practical bridge 'twixt summer and
winter Many women have more, but the
average woman who must handle her
modest dress allowance carefully cannot
AFFORD many twixt season frocks.
Perhaps she buys fall street suit OF the
tailored coat and skirt sort, and the invest
ment is good one for the crisp autumn
days, but the tailor costume comfortable
and suitable for fall will not be warm enough
for winter and may be out Of fashion before
spring. Moreover, q coat and skirt frock
Of cloth or mannish suiting means sepa-
rate blouse and skirt when the coat is not
in service, and a separate blouse. no matter
how pretty and serviceable, is after all
. separate blouse.
The frock that Is a solid comfort in the
early autumn days. yet need not end its
term Of service with the advent of very cold
weather, is the bodice and skirt frock Of
light weight wool, in color and material
durable enough for hard wear and made
upon lines simple enough for ordinary
morning house wear and for street wear
under a separate coat.
trim frock OF this kind will meet many
needs during its first freshness, and with its
help one may wait comfortably until No
vember for ones smart winter costume;
while all the cold season through the sensi
bic little frock will be serviceable for morn
ing wear.
This twixt season frock belongs to what
We were wont to call the shirt waist frock
class; but it must not be shirt waist cos
tune pure and simple, for that would limit
its sphere of usefulness. The model chosen
for it should have a simple walking skirt
and bodice as simple in line. but upon the
bodice there should be some distinctive
and original detail that will lift the frock
out Of the very commonplace and stamp
It with the seal Of smartness.
The material chosen should he al least
medium dark, and, as a rule. really dark
tone is the incest choice. Nothing is better
than a good dark blue for the purpose,
but there are delightful green's, browns,
reds and blue reds, which while dark enough
to be practical are rich enough not to be
somber, and, too, there are this season
the charming subdued plaid and check
effects in light weight cloth. thibet, cheviot
&c, Of which mention has been made on
the opposite page.
The cashmeres, henriettas and draps
detA-all old favorites which have a new
lease Of popularity and are made in I'M
precedented beauty of quality and coloring
are excellent stuffs for the frook under
discussion. Lightweight, smooth finish, fine
twill serge is furnished now in a quality
that while hard enough to shed dust readily.
has a softness unknown to the old time
serge and falls in graceful folds and drap-
cry. "
One of the most satisfactory early autumn
frooks we have seen has just been brought |
over from Paris by woman who has spent
her summer abroad. 1t is made of the serge |
Just described, in genuine navy blue.
The short skirt is gored, fitting smoothly
over the hips, with group OF plaits at the
middle back and wide ripple at the bottom, |
where there is finish of five deep fiat tucks.
The bodice laid in plaits on the shoulders
and drawn into rather narrow folded grdle !
Of dark blue panne, is cut down to show a
very shallow round guimpe and collar Of
lace at sides and back. while just in front
It il cut down to the bust line, to show a
four inch width of the lace guimpe or plas-
iron, across which little straps of panne
are set at two inch intervals.
These narrow straps are finished at each
end by small gold buttons, which look as
though crocheted Of gold thread. Border
ing the guimpe all around is fiat band
Of cloth Of gold, on which is stitched band
OF blue panne, leaving only half inch Of
the gold showing on each side Of the velvet.
The gold buttons Of the blouse front are
set down the middle Of this panne band
on each side OF the plastron. A moderately
full sleeve Of serge ends just below the ell
bow in band of gold and velvet matching |
the collar, and below is q close fitting under |
sleeve OF lace, upon whose outer seam are |
set little short velvet straps with gold but
tons at each end. Nothing could DO more
chic than the general effect Of this frock, |
yet it Is not too elaborate for morning
wear and will stand much hard wear.
The group Of bodices pictured In the
cuts offer suggestions for simple frocks
Of this type, the skirt in each instance
being Of walking length and trimmed only
with self trimming OF bands, tucks, DC.
The killed skirt is not recommended, for
though still seen 1t has lost all novelty and
the plain gored skirts, the skirts with TN
usual plat grouping, the gored skirts With