The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-01-14

L..
: society to encourage the use of short
skirts In wet weather is accomplished
ana the society has disbanded With
lsucn success to assure them WHY do
mot the "Rainy Daisies under another
pictorial title set themselves to the
II 1lHcuIt task of reforming that large
and historic class of persons who
never knew enough to come in when
it rains?"
Short skirts. to be sure, prevail on
the streets when it rains, but 1.-THE
1 eternal fitness of things is done vio-
lence to every day where fashionable
/ women meet One sees hosts of over
dressed women at places which call
Tor simple dress At restaurant din
ners fashionables of substantial rank
steer near the verge of the permissible
continually by wearing decollete
gowns filed in with the thinnest
transparent lace. Gowns the models
CT which were designed for the car
riage. board trolleys every day for wo-
mems club meetings and other public
| gatherings.
The right clothes in the right place
is the first evidence of we'll dressing.
Such instances as that of a well
known rich woman who, with bags of
money at her elbow but a paucity of
sense in her head, wears her dinner
gowns to breakfast-this is not a
writer's phantasy, but a cold blooded
fact of a rich uptown apartment
hotel-rnay not be plentiful. but sar-
torial solecisms almost if not equally
violent are not infrequent spectacles.
| Cut in the dressmaker's product
matters more than material The
manner of putting on of waist skirt,
hat, coat and even gloves counts for
more than the most lavish expenditure
IN trimmings and garnitures. The
vision of costly gowned women with
CIRCLES and blouses misjibed and with
skirts out of plumb is all too familiar.
Nine times out of ten the hat that de-
creases milady's charms would en-
nance them if only a different tilt or
n I1a inc
knows this to perfection, and this is
why her CONNECTION is so often a thing
of beauty on the buyers head in her
shop and & mOnstrosity when put on
after it is sent home. The milliner
knows how to put a hat on to a wo-
mans head. Few women know how
to put hats on their own heads.
The talent of well dressing as much
as any other gift in the world depends
on "a capacity for taking infinite
pains" To be sure, there are women
orally throwing them together and yet
always look stylish" But even they,
geniuses I'm the art though they be,
seldom have the subtle quality of
mothers girlhood would have been
called ''ladylike," and which is still to
be sought Tor more than great fash
lionabIenesS. Fashions were made for
women, not women for fashions. Fun
damental principles of good dressing
never fiuctuate- Care and neatness are
just as essential as when Crawford"
minced over .ts teacups.
Carriage matters more than clothes.
Juno gowped in Partisan toilets
would be a fright if she stood with her
weight on her heels and her back and
shoulders rounded. During this sea-
sons horse show one of the girls most
conspicuous because of social position
was also most conspicuous for
manner. She ambIed and dawd1ed
among a group of KnickerbOcker girls
who carried themselves to a one, but
for her, like queens. Her girdle was
constantly requiring lingering, and
even the front closing of her elegant
but badly adjusted bodice was tink-
cred with every now and then, in a
way that would have sent a well
had been detected in such an act out
side her apartment by her mother.
Sachet is. or should be, a thing to
appeal to every woman. Delicate odors
should be associated with her, and how
ever delicious extracts and toilet wa
tiers may be, they yet lack the elusive
quality which gives scented odor its
charm.
To use too much of a sachet is also
practically impossible, unless one deals
with musk and patchouli. OF violet |
heliotrope and rose, for instance, no
pellant, which is sometimes the case
when a liquid triple extract is en-
ployed.
All pure sachet powders are expen-
sive to buy. but a woman may make /
them herself, and if she purchases the |
ingredients at a reliable shop, she may |
be quite certain that her scents will |
keep their odor longer than though she /
most inexpensive sachets to make, and /
fragrant, too, is lavender. It has |
pungent freshness that makes 1t pre- !
ferred sometimes to violet and others
more sweet, and imparts a delicious
odor to garments.
To make It, take five ounces of pow
dered dried lavender flowers, one and |
one-half ounces of powdered benzoin,
three-quarters Of a drachn of oil of |
lavender. Mix all together, and place /
into pads made for the purpose.
Violet, of course. remains the favor
ite, and is not difficult to make, though /
it is more expensive. Take seven and /
one-ha1f ounces of Cyprus powder, four
ounces of powdered orris. one and one
eighth ounces of coriander seed one
q quarter of an ounce each of cassfa.
cloves, musk seed and santal wood,
all, Of course, powdered. Mix thor
oughly and put into a glass jar tight
doors.
Another delicious violet is made of
half a pound of orris root, powdered;
six ounces of rosewood, half pound
of calauInS aromatious, a quarter of a
pound of yellow sanders, three ounces
of gum benjamin, half an ounce of
Cloves and the same of cinnamon. Mix
together, the ingredients, of course, be-
ing powdered.
Frangipanni is an old-time favorite
and makes a delicious sachet. It is
made of eight ounces of orris root, one
ounce of sage, one ounce of santa1 wood
one ounce of vetiver, one-half drachm
of caIanuis aromaticus, a quarter Of a
civet, six and half grains each of
oils of neroli, santa1 (not sandal wood
and rhodium. Mix the oils with the
powder, and as in the other sachet,
nut il away for two weeks to blend.