New-York tribune., 1905-06-18

E2rISI JUNO
A certain famous couturier, when asked as to
what surprises he had store for gowns for the
Grand Prix, to take place on June II, said that
the greatest novelty would be some development
OF the long tun.o Of thin stuff. gauze, mousseline
or tulle worn over skirt of different material
The tunics would be much decorated with tncr1s-
tattous OF lace embroidery and passementerie, but
the skirt would be plain rule almost un-
trimmed Here are two Grand Prix gowns created
by him.
One has skirt of pale pink taffeta mousselne,
finished at the hem by a line Of black satin The
long tunic is Of white gauze embroidered with white
spots and held at waist with black satin CIR
Gle closed with a bow of gold gauze About the
shoulders Is q stoielike collar OF heavy Whiue
lAos with the ends loose and finished with white
silk fringe. there Is lace chernisette with a
blAck bow at the choker. Some black ribbon is
draped in the lace ruffies Of the sleeves
The touch of gold and silver gauze is conspicu-
IN the model gowns, but conservative women
have in the past been somewhat shy of using such
stufrs for the daytime However. the couturiers.
10 think they will adopt it this season. The
Of black light gowns is decidedly conspicu-
Gus. and black accessories, black hats and para
soils, promise TO be more popular than for many
summers back
The other gown has a skirt Of pale lavender blue
Liberty and long princess tunic Of mousselne de
sole in the color. inset with English eubroid-
cry and little raised figures Of Irish lace. This
trimming is used In band about the bottom of the
tunic and TO form deep pelerine over the shoul-
ders. This tunic is the throat show
little guimpe OF lingerie but it closes invisbly.
and the extra fulness about helwaist line is laid
in small vertical tucks.
The dressmakers may make all sorts of plans for
Grand Prix costumes and the weather make it
necessary for every to resort to wraps but the
tailors have plenty of ideas which they hope will
be exploited that occasion. The majority Of
mantles Of thin, souple cloth and very plain
pUt wonderfully chic line. Most OF the wraps
worn. whether long three-Uuarter length oP
the Empire or Directoire style, and many of them
have elbow or three-quarter length sleeves. There
are different ways of getting the short waisted
feet; sometimes the garment is simply plated or
shirred undar the bust and. again. there is short
bolero. The difficult form of the shortwaisted
garment is princess that defines bust but not
the true waist line.
What promises TO be a conspicuous feature Of
the millinery displayed on this occasion is the use
OF some dark or strong color, such brown, olive
green maroon. Bronze. French blue and ruby
red brilliant shades also conspicuous in hats
snd are often used without any relieving color and
as a supplement to light frock. Feathers
used much more than flowers. and every style Of
plumage is called on-aigrettes. the bird Of para
disc. wings and ostrich piumes, especially uncCrled
ostrich feathers.
II really threatens to be a dark summer for
mousseiines come in dark shades Of green and
brown These are referred to by the dressmakers
The tucker robe is becoming more and more de-
coileJe. and some elegant gowns reminiscent Of
the bretelle frocks that children have long
pretty summer gown is of foulard. a bos de rose
ground, figured IN pale rose and trimmed with bias
bands Of cloth in the darker shade of On the
skirt the bands finished with tiny insertion
OF broderie Anglaise, put to form interesting
pattern and on the bodice they form collar, with
embroidery between the bands. The neck is cut
out in deep point, and the bodice is without
sleeves, that the lingerie underblouse is a CON
spicuous part Of the costume. With a gown of this
sort q lingerie hat is the proper finishing touch.
The term 'tulle is employed often now in
discussing daytime toilets that it needs perhaps
some explanation. II is a much heavier stuff than
the tliie used for hats and evening frocks but il
has the same texture Some OF the novelties in
tulie Show broken plaids ana indistnct figure de-
signs. ~
a dignified example OF the gumpe gown has the
Dooice opening IN a deep W. and made without
sleeves. but the back breadths pass under tbe
eeinture and fan on the skirt in long pattes One
example OF this model IS in white cloth To he xvo,
With With blouse Of fine white batste almost covered
with ruftes OF the tiniest Valencieunes In an
other instance this gown is set I'D in a crisn taF
teta, with the bodice slightly draped and the lone
pattes pleated ~ -"Ais
,i An exquisite example Of white gown is worn by
Vile Dorgere at the Theatre des Caprcines 1rhe
material is mousselline de sole and The ornamar
tation includes embroidered gauze and Valen