The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-30


when It has the fact is Of no consequences,
for the little alp Of soft silk or finest lawn
3 worn under the blouse and there IL no
undesirable display Of anatomy or lingerie
such as characterized the peek-s boo waists
beloved Of writer's for humorous pages.
A majority OF the blousea open In the
back, this arrangement allowing greater
latitude for design In embroidery. inset
lace, tucking. &c, on the front, but there
Il q slight tendency toward front opening,
due In part to the popularity Of the surPliee.
and the models opening In front though
losing none Of their daintiness have been
hailed with Joy by women who cannot
always have a maid In attendance,
-Coarss lingerie materials elaborately
trimmed In coarse lace and machine en-
broIdery are in evidence on every side,
but the woman who knows will pass them
By and demand hneness Of material, even
II that means extreme simplicity Of design.
We have spoken before Of certain null
blouSos made by one good house which
have absolutely no trimming save many
hDs sueks, but which are 90 delightfully."-
hns and so carefully shaped and made
that they have infinitely more oachet than
many Of the expensive and layishly trimmed
VaiSts.
These blouses are IN plain null and In
white null, with single or with two inter-
lacing rings Of white or contrasting color,
and little frills Of real vRlenciennes added
to the tucked collar and cuffs would give
them an extra daintineas Gt only slight
additional expense.
This same house, whose blouses are all
made In the establishment, Il responsible
for some Of the hest Of the models sketched
hsrO-models selected rather for dainty
simplicity than for complicated design.
Fine allover embroidery. either In open
work or in delicate sprgs Of blind EN-
broidery, forms the body Of one model which
has q shallow pointed yoke and long close
Cuiis Of valenciennes insertion set together
and finished with a frill Of valenciennes
edging. The design IL easily reproduced
by any needlewoman. but the lines must
be good. the embroidery Of the finest and
the lace one Of the excellent limitations set
together by hand.
Somewhat similar Is a blouse with mssr-
ton pointed yoke and collar, but with the
body Of the blouse tucked vertically In grouIa
Of fine tucks and a line Of tiny embroid-
cred spngs Get between the groups Of tuck
ing.
Embroidery is the chosen trimming for
the modish blouse, and IL more often
than not accompanied by inset valencienne
Naturally machine embroidery IL resorted
TO for the cheaper waists and sometimes
It Is really quite pretty II artistically designed
and done on fine material, but. Of course,
hand embroidery is the height Of datntiness
and moOishness.
The unmade embroidered blouse patterns
brought over by the importers present a
surprising variety and beautiful patterns
may be bought for any price from $40 TO
500. There are patterns for less than $40,
but they are usually upon coarse material
and not cleverly embroidered, and, as We
have pointed out before, a waist Of hne
material membroidered Ia preferable 70 a
coarse much trimmed one.
Openwork embroidery, heavy padded
embroidery, delicate tendril and spray
embroidery. all are used by the blouse
makers, aad often several different kinds
Of embroidery are combined upon one
blouse, the union Of openwork English
embroidery and heavy padded embroidery
being especially liked.
The fine embroidery such a. Il used upon
baby clothes is usually associated with
inset vaencicnnes upon the sleeves Of null,
batists OF lawn but on some models II
forms tendrls and buds around large
flowers Of padded work Mttls panels or
medallions Of such delicate embroidery,
shaped 10 At round shoulders and throat
inset With real valenciennes insertion, form
the shallow Jokes Of sheer blouses and the
cuffs TO match, and other models have yoke
effects Of vaenciennes inset In the material
or put together with openwork sttcheTy,
vhils the fine embroidery appears only In
tpngs OF gaTlands down the fronts below
the yoke.
The embroidered blouses Of heavy linen
and crash are Fashionable, though not 20
popular as the more sheer waists, and bold
embroidery designs are selected for these,
with heavy cluny or other bold lace, II lace
IL used at all One sees, too, linen blouses
not intended for tubing and trimmed In
handsome Irish crochet OF other hand
made lace. With a little valencisnnea 10
totten the lines az the throat Some OF the
lnsh lace will wash well, but the more
ehboHte designs and raised motifs require
the services OF professional cleanser.
This lr'h crochet has obtained q vogue
hardly anticipated by even its most ardent
admirer'. The Irish makers cannot begin
70 meet tne demand, and even though lace
makers al over the Continent are hard ~
work on Il they cannot turn out enough.
Gowns and coatA OF all kinds from the
nos Gorgeous ~ siiss 70 tne pialneE %