Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1905-06-24

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more complaints this season because
of the length of time required for
finishing gowns, and the consequent
size of her bills than for many a year.
Handwork was never more lavishly
employed on women's garments than
now, although in recently past sea-
sons IL may have been more conspicu-
ous To make a simple gown and have
it meet the requirements of the women
who demands perfect work requires
time. The sewing machine is Of little
use excepting for sewing the seams
in making the flmy afternoon and
evening frocks that all summer girls
and women must have. It cannot put
on lace, il does not stitch ruchings
and puffs on well, it is not used for
the tiny braids that are employed
abundantly, nor for hundred other
purposes that enter into the making
of feminine frocks and frills in this
furbelow period. Besides all the little
shirrings, with their tiny pick.me-up
heads, the hand-run pinch tucks that
bedeck chemisettes and other access
ories, the girdles that must have every
line right or mar rather than beautify
the costume, the hundred and one
small details that sink into obscurity
in the completed work, all consume
days where simpler styles might want
hours. The best of dressmakers, like
the best of all sorts Of people, is not
perfect, and even she loses time now
and then by ripping out work in which
she finds imperfect lines. There is on
ly one way for a woman to become
just employer-to do the work once
for herself and learn all the exigencies
that II entails.
Ribbon trimmings are a very strong
factor among this seasons embellish-
ments. Combined with the airy, sup
pie materials Of the season the effects
Of their glossy surfaces are one Of the
prettiest notes. In a charming gown
Of mousselino and lace, ribbon is an
important detail, forming the girdle,
swathing the waist and decking both
it and the skirt with bows The skirt
has the dip at the back, an extreme
wedge Of the train, which, unless
signs fail, will be back in full length
before long. Skirts remain long at
front and sides. The skirt mentioned |
has lace VS. Of alternating depth at |
front and sides. The summer dance
frock is not the comfortable affair Of |
last year. II has taken on train,
abbreviated still to be sure, but
train nevertheless that needs to be
cared for
The airy fabrics Of the season are
not at their best unless made in a way
to appear fluffy when fffnished. For
slight figures many Of the skirts are
shirred in several rows at the top, leav. i
ing tiny little heads to each row Of
the gathering, The petticoats for all
the seasons thin materials need TO be
plentiful and TO be properly cut, At.
ting glove like at the top and falling
into voluminous ripples at their hens.
Many a chiffon, silk, satin and nous
seline gown is ruined in appearance
through ill-ftting or too few skirts
under il.
The pointed bodice, which began its
revived career in the present fashions
rs an adiunst Of evening toilets, is
very much in evidence this season in
lany display Of costumes that has any
'laim to elaborateness. Prophets, in
Iced, are predicting that before the
Effect leaves the old-fashioned bacque
will have a renewed career. As yet,
however, there is no more evidence Of
such return than there was year
lgo when some ultra-fashionables ae.
Eades, which had bodices eutt on tho
'lan Of the pointed basque, darts, pos
ilions and ALL
ihe gifdle Is having pfolOnguet
'ogue, and in the majority of pointed
'odices, il is it, in effect or in fact,
which gives the point at the front.
'he point, on this seasons gowns, is .
lot exaggerated in sharpness and
Iepth, as it was in evening gowns some
months ago. Evening gowns, in fact,
ave lost much of the aanttique steeled !
tomacher effect which prevailed when
he pointed bodice and girdle first
anne back into use.
Silk petticoats that do not cut
through or wear out after few
'eeks use have aat last been discov-
red and are being made of China silk
$ fast as the manufacturers can turn