Evening star., 1905-09-17

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IA ionable wardrobe. and this year 1t
II - would seem as though the design
ers of dress had paid especial at
teution to styles for this sort of costume;
certainly there never have been turned out
such attractive models. In these gowns,
as I'm every other branch of the feminine
wardrobe, there is great variety this sea-
son, not only in material but in design,
so that II would seem to be almost a helm
Gus crime for any woman to be unbecom-
ingly gowned.
Long, graceful lines are insisted upon,
and at the same time IL long lines are not
becoming there are no end of charming
skirts the lines of which are broken by
trimming or by the double skirt or by the
combination of one or two different ma
terials Skirts and waists to correspond
are obligatory. and yet there never was
known a time when so many smart lin
gerie blouses and attractive SILK waists
were made up to wear with the coat and
skirt costumes
Velvet is again to be fashionable ma
terial this winter. and will be greatly In
favor for street wear A velvet costume Is
always attractive and becoming. Long
skirts are said to be very much more fash
ionable than short ones, excepting for or
dinary hard wear. and are seen on all the
newest models. velvet skirt made long
Is not possible to walk In, but Tor recep-
ton. carriage and calling gowns the long
skirt is infinitely more graceful and becom-
ing. and so fashion has decreed 1t Is the
one and only thing to choose.
To the conservative minded velvet like
lace, should not be trimmed, or. IL trimmed.
then only the slightest amount of trim
ming should be used. and the beauty of the
material should stand for any ornamental
tion required. The long, unbroken lines or
a velvet skirt made either in black or col
ors. cannot fail to be becoming to the ma
jority of figures, and short Jacket or
<All tIA
unbroken lines. or should keep them.
Black is to be fashionable again and to
be more fashionable than it was last year,
but 1t is lishtened by the trimming-pref-
erably, the embroidered satins-and on
many of the handsomer gowns there is to
be seen some exquisite embroidery of the
same color as the material-a sort of braid
ing and embroidery combined that Is very
effective and becoming.
In colored fancy yelvets, whose name Is
legion. embroidery of the same color as the
gown is used with a touch Of contrast In
the waiStcoat of brocade or embroidered
satin; and 1t must be confessed that, for
instance. with gray gown a touch of yell
low in the waist and a fall OF old lace
seem to soften the lines of the velvet and
to make 1t far more becoming. Blue and
gray, pink and gray and yellow and gray
the latter always the smartest-are seen.
while green. red and yellow are all used
with black.
The long coat which is to be such
feature of the winter fashion Is worn over
the entire gown made of the one material,
and this makes possible the velvet waist
with the skirt. OF course the great diff
Guilty and the great objection to a velvet
waist to match skirt Is that the material
is heavy. but the newest weaves of velvet
are wonderfully light In comparison with
those OF a few years ago, and when a trans
parent yoke-even small one-and collar
are added. instead Of the high lined stock
collar OF a few seasons past, there Is
great difference in the comfort of the waist.
wi
without a wrap in the early days Of the
autumn and winter. and the coat worn over
them will be loose enough to be thrown off
when entering house. In other words the
gown Is distinctive and finished without
any outer garment
Broadcloth and ladies' cloth Of the most
exquisite texture and coloring are to be
very favorite materials for the smartest