The San Francisco call., 1905-04-23

plenty OF the cream and perform cir
cular movement. being particular to
always rub, across the deep lines; this
movement Is also invaluable in filing
out depressed temples. The skin must
be held firm while rubbing in the cream
around the eyes. Place the fingers of
the left hand above and below the
crows feet. pressing the fingers apart.
thus pulling the skin smooth. and rub
in with the right hand, reversing this
order when doing the right eye. The
treatment should be given just before
retiring and be persevered in for many
weeks. Especially is perseverance
necessary if the lines are OF long stand
ing Be persistent and the reward viii
be most gratifying.
MODERN SOCIAL USAGES (An-
na L.).-4t is never good form TO speak
fIippantly Of established social customs,
for it stamps a person as lacking In
good breeding. Further, punctilious
people are apt to observe such bad
form and not likely to forgive your
hippancy. When a person enters So
ciety she must expect TO peyform faith
fully the manifold duties. making due
apologies for unavoidable omissions
when necessary. If she is not, willing
TO follow such lines, sooner or later she
VIII pay 7the price in seeing her erst-
while friends drift away. Punctuality
and attention tOdetails compose the Oil
which keeps social wheels moving
without friction. Never neglect to pre-
sent your card when making first
call Servants are apt to confuse
names sadly and it is very. awkward
for the hostess to be compelled to ask
the name Of her caller. Always have
your street and house number clearly
engraved on the lower right hand cor
ner Of your visiting card and the days
at home" on the lower left-hand cor
ner of the card 1t is not necessary to
leave your card each time you call on
intimate friends, although 1T is always
courteous to do so. When fruit and
flowers are sent by friends to a person
who is Ill, q member OF the family
should acknowledge the gifts When
the recipient Is recovered a polite note
Of thanks should be sent to each per-
son who was kindly attentive. Amin
vitatiOn TO luncheon or dinner demands
an immediate reply in the negative or
Affirmative This is imperative and is
due to the hostess so that she may
know how to order the covers Never
accept an invitation In the hope that
you may get there at the eleventh
-bour. Late arrivals or vacant chairs
serenity of a hostess.
TO MAKE A SHIRT WAIST (Elea-
nor).-It is comparatively easy to
learn 10 make shirt waist II you will
begin right To obtain the correct bust
measure is the first step. Pass tape
around the body, about three inches
below the armpits, over ~the shoulder
blades and the fullest part Of, the
~ 49,. - 49, &.T~
tight and make q note OF the exact
measurement Should your measure
ment be, for example, 341z inches. se-
lect a 34-inch bust pattern. as IL can
readily be let out 10 make I'D the slight
difference, while IL the next standard
size, SO, was selected. 1t would be too
large in many parts for a beginner to
manipulate Select a paper pattern OF
reliable manufacture TO correspond
with the bust measure. A perfectly
plain shirt waist closed with center
box plat with bishop sleeves COM
pleted by straight band Gun. with
slight fullness gathered in the fronts
at the neckband is very simple to make
but difficult enough for the novice TO
begin with. Read the directions for
making and cutting which accompany
the pattern and especially notice
whether seam allowance Is made on
the pattern and how much The best
material 10 experiment Win Is urIl
striped gingham. / mention this par
tieulafly, because the !. fabric has
body enough to prevent pulling out at
the seams or stretching. and the stripes
are very helpful in guiding beginner
in cutting accurately with the correct
thread of the fabric. very important
part Of the work Briefly, the correct
method of cutting Is always to place
the front edge OF the front OF waist
pattern next to the selvage. length
wise OF the goods. the back edge OF
back and yoke, If any. to a lengthwise
fold, the sleeves with line Of lenGthwise
perforations placed lengthwise OF goods
and cuffs and neckbands either cross
wise or leugthwise. Take I'D the box
plat in the edge Of right 'front.' and
turn under the edge OF left front for
a hem. Join the seams according 20
the notches, taking UP the seam allow
ance as indicated on the pattern. gath
er the slight fullness at the neck n
fr0nts-if any-try on and make any
needful alterations after Tapping the
box plait over the hems4in edge Of lee
front. Baste one sleeve. togethef. set
in the arrnhOle and make alterations.
il necessary in both sleeves before
stitching Gather the fullness - the
waist line in the back and fronts. The
exact width <of sthe. back at the waist
line. between the seams. should be
about nine and a. half inches when
the waist measures = 26 inches. The
gathers may be stayed permanently by
stitching a tape underneath: hem the
edge and close to fronts with buttons
and buttonhOles.