Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-21


gowns and for the moment all
the dark colors are relegated to
the background. This year especially
all black and dark colors thrust aside in
favor of the brightest and palest and light
est and most striking of cOlors while even
the favorite taffeta and the heavier quail
ties of wolfe and chiffon-that is, chiffon
cloth or chiffon taffeta-are left behind in
the race for popular favor.
Such craze as there s for embroidery
and lace has surely never before been
witnessed in the history of dress. The
open work embroidery. such as is known as
the English embroidery or the eyelet hole,
is, of course, the great favoritee. but it has
already been copied and initiated in the
heavier and Coarser materials that con-
sentative people are now going in for the
hand embroidery on the fine muslins and
for the closer effects. The two are often
combined medallons of hand work on
batiste and the finest lawn being used with
the heavier embroidered linens or with the
embroidered muslins as well.
All this entails an immense amount of
hand work, not only in the embroidery
but in the combining of the two. and such
gowns. are of necessity very expensve;
out they wear well and are so indescrib-
no matter what price is asked for them
the demand continues unabated.
Dame Fashion has been kindly disposed
this year to the majority of women in so
far that she has said it is possible and
fashionable as well to wear the So-called
pattern robes Embroidered linens en-
broidered muslins and embroidered batiste
and lace all come almost ready to wear.
and, of course, the cost is much less The
embroidered linens used for shirt waists.
for entire gowns, or. as is the fashion at
the moment the embroidered waist and
the plain skirt that can be worn with the
long plain coat, are surprisingly ineXpen-
sive, and If care be taken in choosing the
pattern most attractive designs can be
found and at surprisingly low prices. 1t is
well always to avoid Over-elaboration in
coarse materials. Better a little fine en-
brOidery than quantities of coarse that
may he effective but at the same time
shows how coarse it is
The smartest skirts are those that have
a good sweep around the foot The half
length train in the fine muslns and lace
gowns is necessary, but in all the heavier
qualities such as linen the short skirt is
a necessity The peated skirt is the ia
vorte for the moment. but IL is too uni
versally made up in every kind of ma
ttItdI 10 nave II RANK dillpuS the
models of the season The flounced skirts
show embroidery off well-the all-over ma
terial used for the top part and the deep
hounce or flounces around the foot finish
ing the lower part most becomingly.
In buying all these robe dresses care
should be taken to see that there is ma
teral enough around the upper part of
the skirt and that the skirt be made
to hang well badly cut robe skirt no
matter how handsome the material used
in its construction. is one of the ugliest Il
woman can wear. and she would much
better be contented with the simplest
kind of a 10-cent muslin without any
embroidery. If it is we'll cut and fitted
rather than to have one of the skirts that
hang longer at one side than the other
that drag across the figure and have a
tendency to go up in front and down at
the back
All gowns of lace are fashionable this
year the ierre lace. the MalineS lace, the
aII-over Valenciennes. the Irish point and
so on indefinitely through a long list of
names that were never known before. as
we'll as the names that are well known 20
all lace lovers
The medium length and the long coats of
lace worn over chiffon skirts are charm
Ingly attractive, very smart and becoming,
and show off the beauty of the heavier
faces to perfection. One of the fads of
the season is a gown of atl-oFer talenci-
ennes or chiffon with Nalenciennes flounces
and entre-deuX and a coat OF irish lace.
The combination sounds extraordinary,
hut in appearance is most satisfactory, for
II is smart and distinctive. and both the
laces show to great advantage when put
together.
The all-over embroidered batiste gowns
are very charming-the color is so good
and the embroidery shows TO such good et-
feet Then. lined either WIN Whlte or
some color that is in contrast. like pale
blue or pink these gowns look very cool
and charming. 1t is not considered neces-
sary to have silk lining, and II SILK Is
used India silk is preferred. and then the
lawn lining also is OF the palest shade.
the idea being to make the gown look as
dianhanous as possible and at the same
tir,e 10 he as cool as can be imagined.
one great difficulty In years gone by was
that when a silk lining was put into these
gowns made OF wash materials the gown
Was lis, as hot as though II were made
of some heavy material with a thin lining.
but ia spite of the fact that cool days
come in summer 1t Is no longer thought
smart to have a gown lined with heavy