davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23

some ten inches all around and sixteen
inches each side of the front, with white
taffeta that has tiny white chiffon quill
ing set on over the inner edges. At each
side of the front are three large, fiat. cloth
covered molds embroidered in silver. each
fully two inches across; they are set on
three inches apart and two inches from the
edges, the upper two being an inch and
half below the termination of the little
capes.
Some of the new hats Just through the
custom house and coming from Paris direct
to the smartest dressers Of the most FASH
ionable New York set show that larger
sizes are to prevail in dress" hats; that Is.
hats for formal affairs, and wherever pic
turesque headgear is admissible.
A number of these chapeaus are excessive
in size, and their effect on ordinary-looking
women would be ludicrous In the extreme.
A tall. handsome women can safely expert
ment with even outre hats. for they cannot
Kill her beauty, while the large, picturesque
hats are especially adapted to her height
and her good looks. BY tall women the
ordinarily tall woman Is not meant: no one
under five feet eight up to six feet could
with any propriety wear some of the huge
beplumed hats just arrived The feathers
used are chiefly aigrettes and quilts. Ostrich
plumes. however, and some of great length
appear on several Of these hats. but feath-
cry bird OF paradise plumes are usually
combined with them.
One beautiful hat is q rather broad
brimmed affair. the edges dropping down
mere Urine all the way around ana being
much narrower at the back. The crown
Is moderately high. and there Is not the
slightest suggestion OF a tilt anywhere. 1t
Is light tan or ecru straw. and the crown
Is wreathed and the brim half covered with
the most exquisite. natural-looking. shaded
pink roses. with little tender green foli-
age. This Is one of the latest of the Paris
ian creations.
Several OF these hats have brims rather
comparatively narrow at the front, but that
| tut out to q great distance beyond the back
and usually little to one side. These have
fat crowns and are made of light material,
with large ostrich bird OF paradise
| plumes, or both combined. trimmings
One of these In black tulle has quantities
| of the bird Of paradise plumes at the side
and the back.
In contrast to these immense creations
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23

summer and are soaring heavenward, as
are also quilts. Even the goose-neck af-
fairs, originally used fiat, and with the
wing tips turning downward, are so placed
as to stand up and away from the hat
Mrs. Algernon X. Boyesen, who was Miss
Adelaide Barclay. is wearing at times an
immensely de-brimmed brown straw hat
with a moderately high crown, around
which are arranged ruchings, and wide
! ruchings at that. of orange-colored tulle.
At the left OF the crown masses OF white
bird of paradise plumes are fastened and
trail over the left side and off at the back.
When she wears this chapeau Mrs. Boyesen
carries orange fiame-coiored SILK
coaching parasOl
This hat and parasol accompanied last
week one day. a chalk -colored linen cos
tune. The skirt was a circular affair and
swept the floor. The top had tucks start
ing in points and being not over an eighth
Of an inch deep where they stopped; these
ran lengthwise and formed the upper sec
ton of the skirt. Then came deep section
forming the skirt proper. and this was also
tucked at the top. There were strappngs
of the linen between the tucks. A deep
hem finished the skirt at the bottom
The top was of the bolero Jacket order,
with ovals outlined with strappings, and
rows of lengthwise tucks between. The
sleeves were not very large and matched
the body in tucking.
x
A smart and extremely simple coat of
white rajah silk to wear over simple white
frocks comes within eight inches of the
floor. and is loose In front and half fitting
in the back.
There Is cape in the back. and over tho
sleeves that extends almost to the waist
line. and this cape is an extension of the
coat top cut out of a semi-circIe OF cloth
and shaped by three seams to At the neck
and shoulders.
The coat has no collar, but the upper
fronts are cut to turn back into deep revers
at the top. the reyers tapering out to moth
ing some ten inches below the waist line.
These revers are faced back with the same
material as the coat and are caught back
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23

small raised dot all over II like tiny
button. Black. one may confidently predict.
will be o reigning mode this summer. all
though one IL told here in Paris by the ex-
elusive couturieres that q peacock green is
mustard yeilows that are now having such
vogue. BY the way. what q bolt from the
blue is the return OF the long fiung-back
veil over picture hat. with deep brim at
the back curved closely down over the hair.
Only a few OF the most exclusive shops are
creating these chaupeaux. where. as may be
imagined. they make themselves conspic-
nous among the tiny pinched-up models
The veil Is usually OF ring spotted net with
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23

parks are infinitely refreshing with the per-
fumed breeze waited from the flowers Of
the Bots after the noise and glare Of the
gay capital. Taking tea under the shelter
of one of the huge red umbrellas that dot
the lawn and look like overgrown peoples,
while reclining In a comfortable lounging
chair Is bliss enough for the average NOR
tai for the time being.A cynic from the
weather bureau predicts a forty days rain,
but until the deluge will enjoy our days
at Puteaux. And what lovely gowns the
women wearing at these outdoor func-
tons. They usually dress in white from
head to foot, and nothing is more attrac-
tive or more feminine than these dainty,
pure robes of white that shed on the land
scape around as well as on the heart of
the beholder ray of light and joy.
Mime. Recamier, who was true coquette.
is said never to have worn anything but
white, and no ornaments save pearls ever
adorned her queenlike figure. This past
mistress in the gentle art of pleasing was
certainly right. Nothing can equal the
hlmy, poetical charm of soft, white draper
les. which lend transparent delicacy to
the skin. White taffeta frocks made In tai
Tor fashion are very smart for afternoon
car, and many of the best dressed Paris
ian women don costumes of this silk at the
Puteaux al fresco tea parties.
The blue ribbon, too, has gone to white
top wraps. The pongee coats that came in
with such flourish of trumpets have given
place to the white and cream French
serge coats that reach to the top Of the
skirt hem. They are loose and double
breasted, lined with China silk and trim
med with cuffs and collars of embroidery.
Pocket flaps at the sides are convenient
to slip the hands through when the skirt
is to be held up. These serge coats clean
as easily as a pocket handkerchief, and
their usefulness will be obvious when l tell
you that in the fall they are to be worn
as theater wraps, with the addition of cuffs
and collars of macrame cord with deep
fringes.
Ultra smart women have taken advantage
of the general prevalence of white and col
ors to order the most stunning costumes of
all black for social functions. Nothing Is
more effective for a fair-haired woman
to wear in the evening than black liberty
satin or chiffon gown, except possibly
frock of the new black net which has a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23
BUYING ODD PIECES
LIGHT SUMMER FILINGS RE
PLACE WINTER FURNITURE.

Here Is a bit of good news for the girl
or woman who at the beginning of the sea
son. viewed the fascinating summer ped
room furnishings with covetous eye. Au-
gust sales in furniture are at hand! THESE
artistic and charmingly old-fashioned ht-
tings. both In quaint furniture and gay
Powered denims. have proven exceedingly
popular and are to be used as extensively
In winter boudoirs as they have been IN
the country house bed ROOM During the
next three weeks the careful buyer Will De
able to pick them up. not In sets, perhaps,
but In separate pieces. at greatly reduced
prices.
In purchasing odd pieces Of furniture the
up-to-date girl has but one aim-to have
them quite out of the ordinary. Bunga-
low furniture is one of the latest fancies.
Sir gle bedsteads, having this simple but
durable mission frame work with cane NIL
ings. are most appropriate for the room OF
sweet sixteen" Another bedstead which
appeals to the artistic feminine heart Is
four poster. closely resembling old-fash-
toned corded bedsteads with very tall. I'M
str aight low bars.
More unusual than either of these Is
high bed with bamboo framework filled in
by tightly stretched Japanese mating, dec
grated here and there with single pink or
blue or lavender peony blooms surrounded
by green leaves. To give bed room
dressy appearance during the daytime. fig
ured denim or pique spreads with deep
ga thered fiounce and rounding bolster OF
the same conceal all signs OF blankets OF
bed linen.
All sorts of queerly shaped chairs find
their way into a girls boudoir. An inno-
walton of summer is the wicker chair.
painted in any delicate color to match the
woodwork, and upholstered In bright red or
dark blue leather. Tufted cushions of
denim cover cane or hard wood seats.
One low stool has denim work bag at
tached TO either side. and may be easily
folded up and carried from one room to an
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23
To Hang Dress Skirts.

II you wish to make walking skirt JUST
to clear the ground without looking too
short adopt the following plan: Measure
the person from the waist to the ground
then deduct one and a half inches You
will find that the skirt Will not touch the
ground anywhere.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23

q the top With large open-work ivory but
tons.
The sleeves are large and loose and end
at the wrists In large, deep cuffs Of the
rajah, each ornamented with a large ivory
cabochon
Tns cape arrangement falls In futed
folds over the sleeves. the inner edge hang
ing straight and loose. This cape Is merely
ana Ii stitched dozen times around the
edge. as Is also the coat The CUTS and
iapeas are also stitched in white SILK.
MARIE WELDON
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23

The skirt cleared the floor by FIVE inches.
It was tight above the hips, and at about
the knee line the plaits were released, but
pressed In.
Her hat was a large white affair draped
with a black lace veil that dropped OFF the
back. On her arm was little bolero
jacket OF the linen with lace frills showing
at the bottom Of its elbow sleeves.
Mrs Edwin NJ. Post. whose husband Is
now figuring I'm the daily papers. is small.
handsome woman. with large, dark-bro~n
eyes and brown hair. She wore the other
day a smart linen costume short skirt
and Etou. topped by a scarlet hat.
The skirt cleared the floor about three
inches and was laid in groups OF ttree-lnch
side plaits, two In each group. and each
group of two plalts its own width from the
adjacent group. These plaits fitted the
skirt closely around the hips and were re-
leased little more than half way down
the skirt.
The Eton jacket came 10 the top OF the
skirt and was almost tight-htting. having
double breasted shield front hanging
In straight line down the center and
standing out a little beyond the waist line.
Two rows OF small pearl buttons outlined
the double-breasted sections.
Pink and white striped linen-the stripes
an eighth of an inch wide-formed the dec
Grafton. The sleeves. which were moder-
ately full, were modified coat sleeves
shaped IN at the wrist. and there finished
with one wide band OF the pink and white
striped linen TO which was attached a cir
cular section of the deep cream linen OF the
sleeves. This circular piece. which stood
out all around. was perhaps two inches
deep. and had let in at four equidant
points V-shaped pieces OF the linen stripes,
running lengthwise and having the appear
ance of miniature fans. These fans--they
are too wide and shallow TO be called VS.
were perhaps an inch. little over an inch
deep by an inch and a half wide.
The jacket also has similar fans let in at
the bottom OF the center back and at the
sides. while around the top of the jacket
which was cut low, strip OF the striped
material was stitched, and over this striped
stitched border Tapped from the inside
shaped sections OF black satin that ran
along the edges OF the stripe. and while
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23
How to Clean Ivory Hair Brushes.

Ivory backed brushes are so liable to get
soiled and spotted even with the greatest
care that many people will be glad to know
how to clean them properly. Spots may be
removed by the application OF paste made
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23

shade OF tan. They are strapped and
stitched on all parts OF the shoe where
there Is the slightest strain. which Is
very necessary precaution on shoe that
must stand all sorts of rough treatment.
The soies are OF rubber. not only TO protect
the feet from the wet and often muddy
links. but Tor rest In walking.
lot of the most enthusiastic followers OF
the Scottish game are wearing high golf
shoes this summer made on exactly the
same lines as the low ones, but, their wear
ers claim. having more style about them
For tennis lightweight shoe Is the sine qua
non and Is easily found in the white suede
or canvas with heelless rubber soles, cor
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23

of sawdust slightly dampened with water
and few drops of lemon juice. The paste
dry thoroughly. 1t can then be brushed off
Another plan Is to dip small bit of damp
flannel into table salt and rub with this II
the backs of the brushes are carved the
former method will be found the better
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23
PARIS FASHIONS
pecial Correspondence Of The Star.
PARIS. Jul

PARIS July s. 1908.
The broad lawns of Puteaux and of tho
polo clubs are as fashionable a rende1vo,,s
as ever this summer. Luncheons or /,
O'Clock teas at either of these clubs crown
the busy afternoon of the smart Partisan.
The calm and quiet of these vast, shady
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23

a hem Of plain mousseline de sole A hat
OF this kind, coming at a moment when we
are trying to fit ourselves into infinitesmal
pieces of headgear.. inevitably attracts at
tention. If 1 had first seen 1t worn by
some lesser light in the modistic world than
a celebrated French actress I might have
thought 1t an individual vagary.
There is new walk this summer that
Is not as difficult to attain as the Grecan
bend, the dip or many of the kangaroo-like
gyratons that have been considered smart.
1t is called the pump walk and has come
into existence through the necessity of a
certain springy sort of shuttle to get over
the ground and keel the seasons swagger
same time. A new low shoe that Is more
comfortable than the pump though very
like 1t. has been evolved for patrons who re-
fuse to skip and jump. 1t Is wee bit
higher and can be neld more comfortably
on the foot, because instead of just slipping
the foot into Ii and running the risk of hav-
Ing 1t slip at the heel as you walk. two eye
lets lace up with wide ribbon that ties in a
regulation pump bow. II is lower than the
usual low shoe but stays on as comfortably.
OF all summer footwear red shoes are the
most exclusive and stunning. but are worn
only at summer resorts. These daring lit
tie shoes are in a new kind of morocco that
looks nothing in the world like the bright
color one always associates with this
is very expensive, and among the modish
they are taking the place so long occupied
by the white shoe. Then have you seen
on your side of the water the new blue
suede shoes that are so stunning worn with
silk stockings that match any shade of
blue or tighten 1t? Quite as odd and start
ling are the pumps of hunters green rep
resented in ooZe. Worn with sober green
hosiery that exactly matches the dull shade
of the shoe, nothing is more fetching when
the rest of the toilet harmonizes with the
yerdant touch.
\
For the athletic girl there are many styles
of shoes. Several years ago every woman
who went in for sport included numerous
pairs of outing shoes IN her wardrobe, but
all built the same model with slight
variations. Today she has a collection as
varied as the array of slippers owned by a
debutante. Each special sport demands
special kind Of footwear The prettiest
golf shoes are of buckskin in deep rich
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23

II it were not such decidedly linen ~.
son 1t would be a pongee one. These two
fabrics in one way or another seem TO mo-
nopoliZe large part OF the wardrobe. There
are five shades of pongee, including the nat
ural color, that are most appreciated. the
favorites being Alice blue, sage green and
cinnamon. Wedgwood blue continues to
assert its position of supremacy. not only
in millinery, but in linens. An attractive
little dress wonderfully helped out by this
pique sprlnkled over with Wedgwood blue
dots and trimmed with Madeira work on
the double fiounces of the skirt. The bod
ice was the ordinary blouse affair. with a
double pointed collar of embroidery out
lining a vest of Valencennes lace threaded
with tiny blue velvet ribbon. The belt OF
white suede was literally stitched with
blue. l have just a minute more for a de-
scription OF a travelling gown before send
ing this letter off to the states. The natty
little suit was of navy blue serge, and
the skirt, laid in alternate box and side
plaits, was nothing remarkable except In
the perfect cut and finish. The short jacket
reached only few inches below the waist
and hung straight and loose. The sole trim
ming was bands OF stitched serge orna-
mented with buttons and a small motif OF
white cloth braided with black soutachc.
The slightly full sleeves were shirred above
a fiaring stitched cuff that fitted IN turn
into narrow wrstband.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23

other without upsetting miladis sewing
materials.
Gracefully shaped stands have fiat wick
er baskets fastened at each of the ends
and serve sewing tables. Other stands
are inset with English country scenes UNI
der glass, and. for the booklover comes a
table with low brackets which fit securely
into small holes at certain intervals so that
the space for books may be altered readily.
The stationary table for five O'Clock tea
equipment has found most formidable RI
val in the rolling English tea wagon. The
woman who enjoys a bit of refreshment
between midday and evening meal should
not fail to invest in one during this bar
gain season. They save so many steps
Wonderfully attractive are the wagons of
light colored wicker set on two big wheels
at the back and stationary legs at the
fl ont Handsomer is wagon in imitation
of Sheraton ware These have boxes into
which samoyar cups and saucerS diSap-
pear as do the modern sewing machine
when not in use. or they are built with
three tiers or shelves and the highly pol
ished wood Is protected by crystal trays.
When there are electric light wires in
house. a woman may have a tea wagon
with electric heating apparatus and brass
kettle.
However. in fitting up her year-round
ben room. girl may do without tea table
and coy corner. She may even go without
few chairs, but her writing desk. with Its
endless pigeonholes for girlish correspond
ence. she will have. Charming little escri-
tcires are built of wicker or bamboo. and
q prim stand Of mission furniture has
VIC oden clock and brass numbers, set in a
cs binet which tops a most compact and
ingeniously opening desk.
The finishing touches to miladfs boudoir
are the various fiower-sprinkled draperies.
These lend harmony to all the quaint. odd
furniture of her late summer bargain pur-
chases. Straight, old-fashioned designs of
peoples hollyhocks. primroses, etc, set off
inexpensive denims and cretonnes. Win
dows are draped with these in festoons of
the Louis period. Stand and pillow covers
with tape bound edges, and graceful crown
shaped lamp shades are all evolved from
these bedecked materials and make a
daintily furnished bed room look like
June flower bed.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23

rugated or crossed to give the player a
hrmer grip on the ground. The smartest
riding boots are of russell leather and look
particularly well with the tan linen skirt
which is the horsewoman's Informal sum
mer riding habit. A stunning new riding
hat of stiff red straw Is one of the Paris
sensations of the moment. and very syaR-
ger 1t looks. Many Of these swagger hats
are TO be seen on the heads OF smart horse
women taking their morning canter along
thing of a tricorne In shape, prlmly trim
med with little band like the sailor hat
The black straw trlcorne is ar old sartorlal
story, but this rich. dark piece of head
sober costume.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-23

l suppose the last word has been spoken
regarding the up-to-date golfing gown the
ubiquitous shirt waist and skirt but Ieck-
lessly extravagant girls are affecting the all
white linen suit the links And very
fetching Is costume of this kind when I'm
Its first stage of pristine beauty, but the
inevitable dab Of mud ruins IL. For rowing
yachting and tennis the sailor suit IS de
rigueur. and white flannel with fine hair
stripe of blue is rivaling linen and serge
as a material for the suit. The girl who
has a pretty. round white throat Is having
her sailor frock cut out just little at the
neck and diScards the V-Shaped shield TO
which her less fortunate sister will faith
fully cling In spite OF fashions edict The
long cloak of linen serge to wrap around
her when the breezes blow Is the glory OF
the yachtswoman's heart. The jaunty little
plated skirt of white canvas, with it's ac-
campaigning double breasted box coat trim
med with gold buttons bearing the yachts
e..sign. is an alluring costume for the tall.
slim summer girl.
Nord stern. [volume] (La Crosse, Wis.) 1856-1921, 1905-01-27

-UtIIUIV. ~ ,3aII.
2 .n1.'eatea bcr Gttta Brert
i'dits1 unb an1erer geiriete egl n bic
Nrbeit GieDer.
Ct petersburg, 2G San.
sc purre cine Grllarung angs 3Ia.
gen. in beutu ben Streiiern q Stun
ZEN 3eit 3ur Uitberaufnobme peg
4rbeit ssseben wiro. 9euIegiseH,
Nord stern. [volume] (La Crosse, Wis.) 1856-1921, 1905-01-27

1uS 6jeiauabCr 9iOidibicinucuefp' )
bIc.bi luabrca0 ocr 5turmjcit
bel 9tGg-aleiGr.

St. - g6uto. Is. Nan.


UlangeI or 1.ib uLD gfbenamliieIn
6eqiuut bereit3 letaen 0rad uaf oJ.
Sireiler aassiii3eu. GraIen lprldea
IN 0er tjjQQ.et,e. f0bgiter por 'uno ba
ten nit ZbrG eli IL ben Nuaen. lpieee,
lr6titen 5u liirfea. Die tYeItdfts
fiibrer ps III en ben g9iinihe1 Kjtt
5u ent preha. ipsil i;s fugd en-. ret
0le @irsite, ~ 8llle ttl 4oleoeIaai
ndbme oes Ser ebes ibre IrobunQ
pelipir lidlen rnb 3ur Yliinoerun9 ott
5abrite iareltsn.
Dsr ,tai'er aitolaus iprad Gem
neuer Gensralgnu0erneur BON Ct. Pe
tersburg, General IJepom. in etuem
osr0fientli6ten 6riaB ieinen Dan. iiir
bic berpnrrapenoeu Dienits aus, pelds
er ais 4joli3eimsiitcr BON Wtosiau &c
leii.et bat.
Der ojenerolaouberneur 1repon 5at
in Der Stabt rem Gberbeiebl iibsrnon
men. 06robl Der 9eiogeruugs5uIt4n9
Hi6t dmtli6 periiinbet lpurbe, 10 lit et
ro4 tbati16lit oorbancsn. Der &d
ier bat nen 6eperalgouperneur NIT ili.
abioluter Ulatipodiommenbeii ausea
it1ttCt Der ejeusral 3repom bari,
um biz Ru6e auFredJt 81 erbaten. NIT
mJr irei ijb,r bic 5rDppen. bic @euosr
merle uno Boli3ei psrfiigen, ion1eru
er BAT aud bic aontroue oer itaatlida
51brilen uno @trlen in Der 1af9
ana 0sriiiat ii6er baa 8edt. dIls osg
5riebtn uuo Der Cyouung aeid6cl.a9
G,erente 7u -egb1areu.
Tis Gsl.sruu9 III ntidloiisn i'm
ieoen glteis bic Ggonung auired 3u
erboIten.
Die R.gierun1" srtldrte elm tp6er
1tc~t p'.rcrtre1st .bsiiaeE'
gleidiam aui tinem Qlitau, isos Hi
lidi mu rintr 5rblauq 0er
nun1 3Hr sten
Tie Vleloun7sn oug atien 9rots
Staotn 8l8i-uts lcTH tte im gar
5cn Beihe bsuiHsnct 4uilfsurg e
tenusH 1is 9unog bluqen mit ra
then }lagqsn in 6eliin1irrs bemrfed,
ten einiqe 8eiorgniiie, 6 iiDo a5l
ieine 9ln8eihen bafiir por6aussn. bar