New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1905-03-26


about on the surface. and is skinned off sew
eral times a day, placed in tub and disposed
Of by the chef as one OF his perquisites. By the
end of the twelve months the dish water has
become converted into almost pure ammonia.
Most of the reigning sovereigns of Europe
have first class chefs, who receive big pay and
allowances, the former amounting usually to
from $500 to $4,000 year. But unless one
happens to belong to the household or to be on
terms of sufficient intimacy with the Amounted of
the Lord to dine zen petit comite." one has but
little opportunity of becoming acquainted with
the real merit of the monarch's chef. For the
state banquets furnish criterion and at some
courts are so badly served to bring tribula-
tion upon those who are Commanded" to par
take thereof. Thus, in course of the long reign of
the late King of Wurtemberg, the dishes at the
large dinners which he gave were always served
stone cold, owing to the kitchen being situated
at a considerable distance-in fact. in an ad-
jacent building-and conveyed to the pantries
adjoining the dining room by a species of small
railroad. Indeed, more than one elderly diplomat
is nursing In his retirement a digestion
wrecked in the service of his country at the
state banquets of Stuttgart. 1t was all the
more exasperating as the King owned not only
the leading hotel. but also the best restaurant
in the place, and there were some who insisted
that If his dinners at the palace were so indif-
ferent, it was with the design Of increasing the
relish Of his guests for the cuisine of his res
taurant.
Another drawback of these state banquets
given by royalty is the wine-not the quality of
the latter, but the manner in which 1t is served
and. unless I am much mistaken, Ambassador
Bihourd devoted quite as much attention
to his wines at the dinner given for EN-
peror William. as to the cuisine. 1t needs. in
producing districts at that, really to appreciate
good wine. and. above all. TO know how to drink
it in its true perfection. This conviction was
brought home to with particular force dur
ing a stay which made a number of years ago
with the proprietor of one Of the most noted
wine producing estates of the Bordeaux country
Every day he would select in the morning the
wine to be used for the dinner in the evening,
and would have the bottles carefully brought up
to the dining room, where they would be left
for several hours to get the proper temperature
Of the apartment. After that, either he him
self his old butler would decant it. being
careful to hold the bottle in the same direction
1t had occupied IN the cellar, and throwing
away all that was not absolutely transparent.
At dinner the "crus" and their date were sol
EMMY announced by the butler. and the guests
with equal JUNCTION, would silently each take his
ioAoS
to level with the eye. and with slight revo-
luton of the elbow give it a rotary movement.
The object Of this nanoeuvre was to set free
the aroma After shifting, with an air Of pro-
found sagacity, the perfume circulating on the
edge of the glass. and holding it up to the light
we solemnly drank it off in small instruments
Silence followed-the guests looked at one an
other. Our host had an anxious air, awaiting
the verdict Then opinions were given, in a
serious tone, but with a Enthusiastically
French wealth of adjectives. The guests de-
clared the wine either "rebelous," hard
'soulless' and dumb" or, If 1t was to their
taste, they pronounced it "amiable." "seduc-
tive" 'insinuating." "coquettish.' Charming
and soul inspiring" Indeed. such was the in
tensity of the ad1ectives used, that venturing
to INQUIRE of a beautiful woman present, But,
madame since your husband such adjec-
tives for wine what does he to express his
affection for you?" 1 received the reply, when
he is specially pleased with me he calls me his
Iafitte 49,"
In asserting above that it needs a French
man, and native of the wine producing dis
tricts at that, to appreciate good French wine.
should make two exceptions. which occur to
me at this moment. The one is that of Pope
Gregory XI. who. according to history, was SO
delighted with the Clos vougeot of his day that
of the clos. cardinals hat in return for thirty
hogsheads Of the vintage. Nor will any one
be disposed to blame the pontiff for this who
has had the opportunity of quaffing some really
fine Clos Vougeot, wine which, preferred to
all others by Louis XIV and by Napoleon
T. possesses all the soft richness of POM
mard and the perfume of Chambertin. without
the cloying qualities Of the one or the hint of
Readiness in the other The other exception is
King Edward. He is the only man whom
know to be capable Of distinguishing when
blndfolded between. not merely the various
brands. but also between the various crus, of
both Burgundy and of Bordeaux.
1t is a pity that Emperor William dimes only
with full fedged Ambassadors and refrains
from honoring the Ministers Plenipotentiary In
this fashion, for there is no doubt that his
gastronomic ennui would be dispelled. at any
rate temporarily, were. for instance. the ENJOYS
of Persia, OF China, OF Japan and Siam to follow
the example Of their French colleague and be
permitted to tickle his palate with some OF their
national dishes. The Persian Minister. for in
stance might feast his majesty upon a lamb
roasted whole in it's hide by means Of heated
pebbles. the interior OF the animal being stuffed
with rice, currants and all sorts of highly
favored. aromatic, and at the same time DELI
cate. herbs. The envoy would. however, do well
to abstain from the Oriental custom OF tearing
on the choicest morsel with his fingers and,
after kneading 1T In his hands until Il assumes
the size of a sort OF large butter ball, showing
IL into the mouth of his iilustrious guest as a
mark OF the most profund distinction and hos
pitaiity
Nor do imagine that the Chinese cookery
would altogether appeal TO Emperor William
For high eggs. high fish, and above all. high
oysters, are regarded as great deIicacies In
China, a taste which the Celestlais seem to