Morgan County democrat. (Versailles, Mo.) 1900-1906, 1905-08-18
until all oil has been removed, espe-

until all oil has been removed, espe-
cially from the angles and corners.
Much of the foregoing instruction APP
plies to the finishing of wood on which
a fine, smooth surface and polish are
desired. A very common but rough
finish may be produced by first stain
ing (when desired), filling and hen
applying W or three coats of good var
nish of any kind. and leaving the last
coat in it's natural gloss, unrubbed.
Such a finish may be seen on the in
terror hard woodwork of many houses,
and also OF the cheap grades of cab
met furniture.
Waxing.
Waxing is the most durable, and the
most easily renewed of all finishes for
wood. Three or four generations ago
nearly all the woodwork in the interior
of houses was finished with wax. The
wax then used was simply heeswaX. cut
and made into a paste with %turpentine,
which produced a soft finish that would
not dry hard, N required renewing
very often.
Now that wax finish is coming into
use again, not only for floors. but also
for the better class of furniture, a wax
paste is being manufactured which
dries more quickly thar copal varnish.
The johnson" and the Butchers"
floor anti furniture wax can be bought
in one-pound tins at about 40 cents q
pound. and this finish is recommended
to workers in wood for all their hard
wood work,
The preparation of the wood for
waxing Is the same in every way az
when varnish is to be used. For exam
pie. If the article is made of oak. and IL
to be finished antique in color, it is first
filled with antique filler, which must
be rubbed of clean, and polished. After
hardening for about as hours q coat
of wax is rubbed on with a cloth. After
standing for 10 so Is minutes the wax
Is rubbed in and vigorously polished
with a soft cloth. In "a hours his will
be dry, when a second Goa is applied
in the same way as the first, and again
we'll polished.
The work of finishing Is now COM.
plete. and after drying for a day it will
be found perfectly hard, and will re-
sist moisture and hard usage much bet
ter than a varnish finish. II the article
Is made of Quartered oak. and the finish
required is golden oak, first stain the
wood with golden oak oil stain, as d.
rected for varnish finish. When the
stain is thoroughly dry CAS- hours should
be given) fill with the best golden oak or
antique colored filler, after which "
pnafs nf xyay DC lirpctGI Qhnva
Flemish oak. weathered oak and other
colors are produced in the same man.
ner-by first staining the wood, then
filling and lastly applying two coats OF
wax.
The whole process is so simple. and
the results so satisfactory, that no one,
after using the wax. will think of re-
turning to varnish.
The use of wax is equally successful
on any Of the hard woods. When
marred or in any way injured, the wax
finish is easily renewed by rubbing N
a little fresh wax and repolishing as
before.
For soft woods, particularly white
pine. shellac is better than wax, giving
a hard surface the wood does not pos
seSS.
Note.-After coating with wax do not
let it dry too long before rubbing off
and polishing, or 1t will work very
hard. Eight, ten, or at most Is minutes
are sufficient, the time depending on the
warmth of the room.
When preparing the shelf piece for
either OF the magazine racks illustrated
In Figs. 66 and IS. great care must be
taken to have the ends square, not only
with the front edge, but also square
with the upper side Of the shelf. other
wise the sides of the rack will not At,
nor will they stand when fastened on,
at right angles to the shelf. However
carefully the ends are sawed OF, even
II apparently close to the dimension
lines, they will be found, when tested
by the try square, to be more or less out
Of true. This truing, or jOinting OF the
ends OF all such pieces can be easily
accomplished by following out the in
structiOns given under Fig. IS. for
using the bench hook and shoot board.
Carefully read and reread these direc.
tiOns, as they will be found to cover al
difhculties involved in such work.