Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-02-25
THE USE OF BANDEAUX
NO TELLING, HOWEVER, WHEN
LARGE SHAPES WILL COME IN.
Some New Models Recently Exhibited
in Paris for the Ultra-Fash-
ionable Taste.
From the Millinery Trade Review.

whim. We refer to the decrease in the
size of hats generally and the lowering of
the crown. Just at first the movement
made slow progress, but month since it
had made such immense strides that one
began to question whether another reac-
ton might not be going to set in and big
hats return once more to favor. 1t does
not seem that this is at all likely to hap
pen, at least yet awhile. and one cannot
pretend to hazard a guess as to what
Parsians may be wearing six eight
months hence.
In the meantime persistent rumors are
afioat to the effect that only quite small
hats will find favor for the summer
months These arise chiefly among the
general public: milliners won't commit
themselves so far, and only say that much
smaller hats will be worn. Everything is
relative, and even a medium-sized shape
is small" when compared to the ultra
broad brims current at the beginning of
the winter.
No Broad Brims.
Among the models prepared for the in
spection of buyers the latter do not figure
at ALL But neither do such Lilliputian
hats, toques and capotes as Parisians are
wearing at present for evening. Both ex-
tremes have been eliminated. For the rest
there is a varied selection of sizes, in
Guiding some moderately large, great
certain number decidedly small. AS for
tall crowns, they have disappeared entire
ly, to give place to moderately low or quite
low crowns.
A very particular feature of a great
many of the new shapes is the variation
in the depths of the brim Thus a large
proportion are very narrow in the brlm IN
front. Some of them are egg-shaped, the
crown set in the narrow end, and the VIDE
portion turned up almost vertically be-
hind. Others are heart-shaped, the indent
being in front. Others again are much
wider at the sides than back and front
Oval hats appeared last year, but were not
successful They are thought better of
for next season, the reason given being
that the new way of wearing the mar pull
ed out over the ears takes away from
their regularity. 1t must also be said
that Napoleon and other styles of cooked
hats have accustomed people to shapes
jutting out at the sides. In some cases
the oval shape is enhanced by rolling over
back and front, but anyhow, something Oh
a roll is given to the edge
A great many shapes roll slightly over at
the edges after the manner of Breton mats,
and in some the brim slopes upward from
the base of the crown.
Bandeaux on New Hats.
All the new hats are mounted on pan
deaux. which are often very high at the
back and left side The same shape will
take upon itself quite different aspect,
high bandeau from the back or sideways
from the left. An inch, more or less, OF
height in the bandeau may also consul
tute very decided difference In IT'S Ell
feet The new shapes are mounted IN
such a way as to come forward over the
brow but they do not press down quite
so much on the hair as do those worn
lust now. The Introduction OF a oandeau
running round the front is a decided I'M
nrovement to this style. No rule is fol-
lowed with respect to the situation given
the trimming. 1t often enclrcleS the
crown and a good proportion or II IS de-
voted to the side or back of the bandeau.
If a single bunch of flowers is placed out
side 1t is quite as often on the right as
on the left. Whatever sort of trimming
be adopted, it does not add materially TO
the height of the shape, but when the
widest portion of the brim is turned up
vertically it will often come three or
more inches above the crown. 1t is IN
variably the back or left side of the brlm
that is treated in this manner.
No particular rule is followed with re-
spect to crowns, and they are for the
most part rather characterless: both
domed and fiat tops are seen, while as TO
width they vary good deal without run
ming to extremes either way.
Braids in Spring Hats.
In straws we find fancy patterns and
stripes taking the lead for the present.
These braids, however, are often COM
bined with interlet bands of shirred
mousseline or tulle the material being
merely gathered on both sides, plated
frill; bands of thick lace or embroidery
are also interlet between the two groups
of braids. These arrangements are usu-
ally confined to the brim, for which one
is generally sufficient.
Leghorn and other fine straws are not
in much demand for the spring IN tne
light select lines of millinery 1T Is tne
hats built up of hair braid that triumph
These braids are for the most part mar
row and fine. They are woven without
any attempt at pattern, and are more or
less transparent One of their most dlS-
features is their color. HAIR
braids are shown in a great variety of
shades.
Glaze effects are very much to the fore
These are paillasson braidS showing TWO
or more colors. The mother o'-pearl COM
binations show four or FIVE one usually
predominating over the others.
Colors and Com binations in Trimmings
Combinations of colors are also much af-
fected in trimmings. Although half dozen
colors will frequently be put to-
gether on single hat, the result may be
extremely harmonious. We particularly
noted rather small hat, the predom1natlng
tone of which is green, trimmed with ribbon
opied from an old sixteenth century pat
tern-tiny fiowerets combined in stripy eff
punches of pompadour hair braids.
The trimming chosen is bunch of forget
me-nots and a bow of red ribbon velvet.
Dresden Roses Used.
A glace of mother of pearl shades, with a
certain preponderance of cold light blue,
was exhibited in another, the two long os-
trich tips placed en- coup de vent-that is to
say, as If blown backward by the wind
being of the same glace as the straw. Sew
eral are decorated with lunches of Dresden
roses. the closely crumpled petals of which
have little blotches of deeper shade. A
single one of these punches will contain
roses of five or six different tints.
The two models Illustrated are very typical
Of what is being shown. The first Is an
"Arlequin" shaped hat of warm-cOlOred
champagne fancy straw chou of soft mi
Clair green silk and cocks feathers, large
cache peigne of the same colored green silk.
The other Is the latest shaped nat crowned
hat, entirely composed of small drawn rib
bons in rose porcelaine. Gold gauze Louis
XIV bow; wreath Of roses in the same tint
of pink Hat very much tilted forward
with very large cache peignes' Of globe
shaped roses.