davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

teriOus source that she will receive
PAIR of opera glasses An idea fer YOU
give her an opera bag Select some
white. light blue-any delicate color
MORE silk for the bag. and work on it
a small design in ribbon embroidery.
This is quite new and unusually pretty.
simple design takes very little time.
and. if YOU have not even that. the
bag can be bought ready made
Another new opera bag may be made
OF gold or silver cloth. gathered at the
top with square rings. crocheted in gray
for silver. yellow for s-oid. green for
green-colo-ed silver or gold cloth. and
so on. In a very short time this may he
decorated with a small design of silk
and lead embroidery.
For the young woman who has a fond
ness for pretty evening gowns. make a
garland OF ribbon roses. This is done bv
making rosettte OF loops OF narrow rib
bon and tying a knot in the top Of each
loop In the center fasJen a few pieces
or yellow silk. TO make the stamens. the
ends being knotted- These roses are from
one 10 three inches in diameter. and NAV
be connected by strands. or knotted
wired stems of narrow green ribbon
Fasten the whole on a strip Of stirf
white bobbinette or scrim. and my lady
can bedeck herself in the gayest ana
prettiest fashion
There are all manner of medicine
cases Tor travelling, but perhaps the
most practical for general use is the
small round leather case. about two
inches by five, that has three bottles in
1t. each shaped to At the case. The bot
Ties have glass shoppers. with a nickel
or silver top screwed over each. Bottles
are awkward things to carry about in
ones grips and bags, so a specially
shaped case of them would be an ad-
mirable gift for either man or a wo-
man.
The Washington times., 1905-12-10
HOW TO MAKE A PIERROT RUFF
I'm IL o6zoe 1se bM7ozhon

run and hat Of the same delicate shade
There IS nothing very difficult about
making these rufrs-which is not their
least good point The main thing 10 re-
member is to be generous with your
tulle and 10 have il OF fairly good quail
uy-coarse tulle looks stin instead Of
Eeecy.
Twelve yards Of ordinary yelling tullc
Is required; this is cut into six lengths.
six yards long and about six inches
wide-one-third the tulle's width The
strips are frely accordion plated or
crimped before being fulled on 10 a
shaped band of crinoline measuring
eighteen by two inches. First. cover
this band with silk which matches your
tulle. leaving one side loose 20 tack
down as facing. Each strip OF tuIIe IS
sewcd on separately; hose at the TOP
are trimmed of little with sharp
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

sitting all through the purse. IT is moth
ing but two little pieces Of chamois
about the size of silver dollar. stitch
ed together, half way round, and with
the edges pinked.
As TO boas and scarfs and the various
DIS OF fluff which are so wonderfully
becoming and so effective in a theater
TO say nothing Of the cold and insldi-
Gus draghts they protect you from.
they are legion. and each seen.s prettier
than the last.
Lots OF them are going TO find their
way into Christmas stockings
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

each section of the lining. and use it as
pattern. cutting two of each piece
and marking the seams by the old
stitchings as you go Cut each piece
on the leng.hwise of the goods.
Stitch the lining up, clipping the seams
on the wrong side and pressing them
fat. and using the half OF the old that
you've left intact as a model to put
the new together by.
Then baste the seams of the lining,
to the inside seams of the coat. all the
way down. holding both coat and lining.
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

down upon it, Never press directly upon
cloth, or you are sure to have shiny
marks wherever your iron has touched
ii.
When the lining is all out. cut il in
halI directly up the back, and keep
one-half intact, ripping the other UP
INTO It's various sections. If you rip
with a sharp knife, cutting the stitches
down, there is less strain on the In
ing. and strain is apt to result in
stretching
After the ripping is done, press out
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

! decorative stitching). and the base one
OF the strong. pretty little trays of bas-
/ network.
AS to Iace-there's never a girl nor a
woman who wouldn't revel in the pos
/ session OF bits Of real lace. EXQUISITE
little things come of Brussels lace
handkerchiefs with just an edge OF the
lace around them; turnover collars.
shallow or deep; and a world OF fasci-
mating sets and yokes and chenisettes
Somehow, the modern shapes rob Brus-
/ sells of its old association with more
matroniy charms. so that younger wo-
men and girls. too are 10th wearing it
And Irish crochet. everybody's wear
ing. Such wonderful creations as there
are: jackets and whole long. beautiful
coats and thousand and one varia-
tions OF collars from the tiuiest OF
stocks 10 deep. exquisite things that
reach all the way down tor beyond
the shoulder line. One beauty was
something like a deep sailor collar. but
new, unusual treatment OF that shape
that is charming.
There are inexpensive bits of the lace.
too-as beautiful Ia their way: little
collars Of exquisite shape, some OF them
enough for the trimming Of that pref
test blouse of yonrs.
a beautiful scarf ror the girl who
goes" a great deal can bet got for very
little. Or YOU can make one-for less,
Printed crepe-pale blue. with soft. in
distinct roses scattered over it-made
one adorable scarf. Il was accordion
plated and the ends fringed with heavy
silk woven into Intricate knots.
Those little sets OF clothes-hanEers-
the kind that contract until they fit
into a fairly short case-are wonderfully
satisfactory. both for travellers and
stay-at-homes.
odd jewel pockets OF chamois for car
rying your jewels safely about you are
convenient. Little ones come to pin to
the top OF corsets. and big ones (for
travelng). which are like a strong
leather pocket, swing from a belt. This |
is meant TO slip on while you're dress |
ing.
Wristbags and travelling bags. pocket
books masquerading as bags-there are
sizes and kinds and shapes enough TO !
suit even that whimsical person whose I
present you're just bit worried over.
4 postcard album would be boon TO |
the postcard ficnd who has no way OF |
keeping her collections except in various
boxes.
The cleverest way Of marking hand
terchiefs is TO embroider the whole of
he first name as II IT were written on,
copying the signature OF the person for
whom YOU are Dc Il as nearly as
possible Embro. over a thread for
padding.
Andlrons make stunning gifts If
-ou've a small fortune TO eXpend, get
something that is old. But fascinating
mes are TO be had for very little.
Some beautiful allover embroidery is
reading close on the heels OF hand
blouses. and new trick
or those hand-embroidered blouses is
he scattering Of the design-like little
blossoms dropped at intervals-insteadl
n the more stcreotyped set design.
Perhaps your sister or your friend has
eceived-or you know from some mys-
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

tn ELTNING a coat isn't the serious
problem il sounds. by long odds
Only, it's to be hoped that you
haven't let your lining get too
shappy before starting in 10 replace it,
hhlng worn through into holes in
spots is hard to cut out by.
Rap your lining out carefully. and
press the coat, always laying a piece
OF muslin, or better. of dark lining be-
tween %our iron and the cloth. For
heaFy pressing. dampen the lining, and
use = taiiors goose. bearing your weight
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

Egg-cups OF silver-if you eat your
egg English fashion. out of the shell
are stunning. and not too extensive for
'ie woman with an average purse 10
give. They're almost as individual as
your own napkin ring
One combination of many little CON
yeniences into a fascinating whole is or
SILVER too. ii is a toast rack. Drnsur,-
Apiy' Out at one end is the egg-c,,n
with a convenient place for the well
9Haped httle spoon 10 stand: and. at tho
otHer end. by the way OF balance ,~o
salt and pepper shakers.
for coffee lovers there are hosts or
attractive things, from those artistic
'end delightfully."- inexpensive) French
pots OF soft brown pottery to wonderf,,I
Ihinss OF copper and glass. I'm which
you evolve coffee as the Russians noal.e
BY the same token. for tea a-dr,rt,o-
come squatty little pots decorated in y
thousand ways. Some of the prettieet
are the least expensive. And the ..coz,,.,
size holds just two cups.
The new SILK stockings make prettier
glfts than ever for the girl yUbo Io,.o-
such luXuriOusness, but cant ind,i,a
IN II 10 her hearts content They have
colors introduced upon aII-bIack grounds
just the tiniest of wreaths or a u,oa
spray OF violets or forget t-me-nots ern-
broidered on by way OF decoration.
White ones are even more FASCINATING
embroidered in all-white in design of
chrysanthemum buds, or with the same
little wreaths that decorated the black
ones, and sprays scattered on.
Such stunning silver photograph
frames as the season has brougbt ontr
They're fatter than last years and
some Of them are the prettlest sort of |
openwork. with 4 bit Of dark. rich vel |
vet showing through.
one for three pictures makes an ideal
setting for the photographs Of a father |
mother. and daughter Il
one Of the favorite coIors In silk
stockings is "a pale shade of lavender 1
Some of the dark cOlors. worn 10 match (
the gown, blend 40 perfectly with the |
general color scheme that they are al
most as unobtrusive as black. vet they
have a touch Of character about them /
IL the fact that they are color.
Warp-printed ribbons make all sorts |
)f fascinating things. which neither
cost much IN money nor in time. one |
particularly pretty workbox was made /
)f four strips Of siX-inch ribbon. the |
seams apparently joined by brier-stitch- !
The Washington times., 1905-12-10
christmas Presents With Personal Touches
List OF Quickly Made Gifts and Some Last-Mnute SIooesons

TT HE dearest travelling clock has
come out-just a tiny edition OF
the satisfactory clocks we've
known all along. but a whole lot
more satisfactory, because It is smaller.
II $ really very little clock. not much
USger than small ink-bottIe. but it's
as right as trivet in the all-important
matter OF time
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

shears until the rufie nearest the face
is an inch shorter than the one which
rests on the shoulders. This gives the
rounded shape.
Twelve yards of one-inch velvet rib
bon is fastened with little loops and six
StreumerS to each end. The silk fac
ing which covers all sewing is finally
whipped down into place.
The Washington times., 1905-12-10
Paris. Dec

Paris. Dec. >.
~ IERROT ruffs made of tulle are
- about the most becoming face
setting Imaginable For day
wear they should match your
gown i'm color. 50 that fur muff may
be carried without taking from the ef-
feet.
A pretty ided for evening is to have a
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

Casters are back in fashion. but tiny
ones, which put old-fashioned models to
shame. These are hardly bigger than
the silver salt and pepper boxes with
which everybody was deIuged sone
eight or ten years ago. Each caster
holds three-for salt. black pepper and
paprika.
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

travelling watches are disadvantages
peciaily those with the tiny electric bulb
inside which illumines the face in a
fash But they're mighty expensive lit
tie Iuxuries.
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

ing dn reality strongly sewed under the
decorative stitching). and the base one
OF the strong. pretty little trays of bas-,
network
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

Perhaps your sister or your friend has
eceived-or you know from some mys-
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

odd jewel pockets OF chamois for car
rying your jewels safely about you are
convenient. Little ones come to pin to
the top OF corsets. and big ones (for
traveling). which are like "a strong
leather pocket, swing from a belt. This
is meant TO slip on while you're dress
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

Wristbags and travelling bags. pocket
books masquerading as bags-there are
sizes and kinds and shapes enough TO
suit even that whimsical person whose
present you're just a bit worried over.
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

Warp-printed ribbons make all sorts
OF fascinating things. which neither
cost much In money nor in time one
particularly pretty workbox was made
of four strips OF six-inch ribbon. the
seams apparently joined By brier-stitch-
The Washington times., 1905-12-10

Those little sets OF clothes-hangers-
the kind that contract until they fit
into fairly short case-are wonderfully
satisfactory. both for travellers and
stay-at-homes.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-21

line TO follow, except for a stout figure, in
which case the shield is better 10 use than
the yoke. For the woman of too too solid
proportions surpliced waist effects are best
arranged over a U-snaped shield. This out
line is considered smarter also in the new
chemisettes than the ever present form.
And. speaking of chemsettes. we all have
had uncomfortable experiences on account
of these becoming dress adjuncts slipping
from their moorings. To avoid similar mis-
haps the careful woman this summer Will
attach her clpemisette to thin. sleeveless
waist which will not appreciably add to its
weight 1t is useless to say that all these
bloiiscs fasten invisibiy in the back with
tiny lace buttons and worked loops.
simple and smart lingerie blouse seen
recently at an exclusive house was of
sneerest nainsook cut without fuliness ex-
cept at the waist line TIE square yoke
back and front and the very high collar
were OF eyelet hole and blind en1oro:dery
mine4ed In one exquisite pattern. outini-
ing this yoke. giving fascinating. airy
square effect. were rows of inch-wlde
closely gathered val r,nlies. The touch that
gives distinction TO this French CONNECTION
was a trIcornered design OF hand enbroid-
cry worked In i1ae white cotton thread just
below the yoke. The fun bishop sleeves
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-21

were three-quarter length and under the
elbow had an embroidered turned-back
cum and undersleeves of ruffied lace. An
other charming example OF lingerie blouse
Is created from handkerchief linen shirred
several times about round lace yoke
! The sleeves are set In the armholes with
Shirrings. and the inner sleeve seam Is
shirred into elbow length and finished with
rufffes of linen and lace. The only other
trimming on the blouse is made of large
wheels of half-nch val lace. two wheels
being placed on the front of the bodice
and one each sleeve, n straight trim
ming line preserved on waist and sleeves.
Very stunning Is a waist of heavy liner
made with a center box plat extending
from waist to throat fianked by two similar
Plalts stopping at the bottom OF deep,
fancifully shaped yoke. The sleeves ar,
moderately full and finish with mannisli
cuffs.
Wonderfully effective Is a blouse of pale
yellow chiffon cloth plated about the fig
ure into a bolero effect crossed with bre-
telles of swiss insertion edged with mauye
velvet. The skirt to be worn with this
waist is of accordion plated yellow chiffon
attached to a girdle of mauVe silk.
Unquestionably clothes do get on the
nerves a little. especially when the mode
of tomorrow so quickly becomes the de
mode of yesterday. and 1t is comfort with
all the changes going on in styles that the
skirts remain almost the same. For ordi-
nary tub dresses the new ffvegored pat
tern is used 1t is slightly gathered at the
Spanish flounce. The fiounce has a wide
hem, above which are tucks or rows of in
sertion or embroidery. 1t is gathered 10
the gored part of the skirt with a heading
or Is Joined with a two-inch band of en-
brOdery or heavy lace
On dressy gowns. when no thought of tho
tub is evident, many circular ruff1es are
used rounded and slashed at the center OF
the back and front. The old-fashioned
model made with three lace ruffles is again
popular, but is CARR, out with delight
full difference. The couturieres have
elected to fluff out the lace rufies wite
chiffon and wash materials into the airiest
effects magma BILE The old idea of laying
lace lust so" to show OFF its beauty has
departed. The object now is to add beauty
to beauty until each lovely fabric is hale
hidden. only appearing for a moment into
fascinating prominence.
Princess gowns in the thinnest materials
are a Partisan fad of the summer. These
gowns are tucked to fit into the waist line
and are deliberately trimmed with lace and
dainty hand work. Many of these gowns
are cut decollete and are worn over col
ored silk slips CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-21
Chemistry of Painting.
From Public Opinion.

4 rom PUBLIC OplhiOn-
An informing article on the permanence.
or rather lack of permanence. of the old
masters by Prof w. OSWALD of Leipslc is
quoted in the Scientific American. In the
work of our artists. says Professor Ostwaid
'in spite of the obvious disadvantages. oil
has practically displaced all other media,
because 1t permits the artist to judge the
effect of his work at once, as oil colors
do not change appreciably in drying. Water
colors alter perceptibly. and gouache still
more. and the painter must make allow
ance for the alteration. But though the
oil painting does not change in drying, or
in weeks or months. it changes inevitably
in decades and centuries, and always in
the same way, by assuming a general yell
lowsh brown cast, called the gallery tone
rs there no remedy? ! know none for
the yellowing of oil with age. but may
take a broader view and seek a method
which shall retain the chief advantage of
oil painting and yet avoid its defects. Such
a method is pastel Pastels show no trace
of gallery tone but remain bright and
fresh for centuries. They are executed
with dry colored crayons, which adhere
loosely to the ground, and must therefore
be protected with glass. Pastel allows the
greatest freedom of treatment. and unsats-
f. Glory parts can be wiped off and donf
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-21

are rounded away to the bottom, giving
panel effect to the skirt front. 1t does not
round away much. however. until it reaches
the knees; in the back it comes to within
eight inches of the floor.
Across the top of the coat, down each
side of the front and extending around the
bottom Is q border of apple blossoms. and
their foliage in shaded pinks and White
and greens. and even grayish green APP
pears in the twigs: these flowers are
worked in chiffon, silk and chenille.
Bands of the embroidery cross over the
shoulders as there are no sleeves to the
coat. Attached to the top of the coat.
tackled under the upper edge, is single
fold of white chiffon. and fastened to
this as a foundation is a very wide scarf
of white tulle, which is plated and In
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-21

although perishable. Quilts and ostrich tips
really last longer than the wings, for the
latter, being artifcially made. will begin
to go the mucilage used to
faSten them becomes dampened or the
feathers are subjected to strong winds;
even if the body of the wing is wired or
sewed the loss of the fine outer feathers at
the base ruins the appearance of the wings
and they have to be renewed. The price
of these wings has little to do with their
durability.
The gooseneck wings especially
pretty, as they form a finish to the wing
proper pale-blue hat-one of the new
tilted saucer shapes in the pale-blue crno-
line-had two of these wings its trim
ming at one side and around the crown.
Two of the wings were fastened to the
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-21

contortionS we sec at social gatherings de-
serve the name of smiles, though they pass
as such in this world of melancholy bore
dom. If some one. say leader of the
smart set here in Paris, would introduce
the fashion Of smiling in public what
benefactor she would be! And her fol-
lowers would at least give the subject
cheerful consideration. Or the specialists
might start a smile cure Seriously,
though, it is really wonder 1t has not oc-
Cured to some of the doctors to institute
beneficial system of this kind TO be al
ways surrounded by smiling. radiant faces
would have better effect the exhaust
ed nerves of half theirspatients than most
of the remedies known to medical science.
In these latter days of pessimism and ennm
to diffuse happiness is the highest form or
philanthropy, and smile settles every
thing to mutual satisfaction.
Speaking of Partisan streets, they are IN
no sense dress parades. The true Partisan
keeps her sartorial triumphs for home wear
or to exhibit at the houses OF hef trlehus OF
for the afternoon drive. but not for walk
ing Therefore to see how Paris frocks
herself one must have the entree to smart
atelier OF. better still, an open sesame TO
some of the many ciiques INTO when So
ciety at the gay capital is divided. On the
other hand, 1t is curious to note how rarely
women i'll the best society are allowed by
the master minds of the dress world 10
launch a new idea. A fair lady from
world one seldom catches a glimpse or is
chosen to initiate the graHde dame into the
mysteries of the seasons fashions. And
Longchamps at this time OF the year Is
where one sees these manikins display the
bravery of their attire.
For the most part. gowns ao the race
meeting last Sunday We're severely tailored,
though few women were dressed gayiy.
as for flower show. Generally speaking.
the smartness of a costume was to be found
in the hat, which was invariably covered
with flowers. The summer chareaux are
eccentric rather than becoming. but with
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-21

over as often as necessary. When / recon-
mend this method to painters they say:
Very truei If one could only fix the pas
tel Even this is possible. In my Notes
on Painting I have given the formula of
laxative which enables a pastel picture to
be rolled busted and cleaned with bread
crumbs without injury. This brings us back
to q medium. but which is used n
very small quantity and does not darken
with age but at the worst only disappears.
when il may be reapplied. When / add
that pastel is suitable for pictures of every
size and character. that il Is the cheapest
of all methods. and that il enables the
artist once more to prepare his own colors
and assure himself of their purity. ii will
be understood why | regard IL the
method of the future.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-21

right side, the gooseneck portion of the
inner one was passed through ripped
seam in the hat and carried around the
base OF the crown; the other gooseneck
curved to the front on the outside of the
brim. On the bandeau at the back were
chous of blue velvet ribbon.
= !.
An exquisite robe suggestive of old-time
modes has been imported, merely to go
back to Europe again. to be worn there
by the wealthy American girl who added
it to her trousseau and who will spend the
summer abroad. The skirt is trailing
robe of sunray plated pale green chiffon
cloth-that sort of green that shows when
apple trees first begin to bud Over this is
worn a low-neCked, sleeveless coat of white
lace lined with pale pink chiffon. The
coat part is tight-fitting, easy fit Of
course. in order not to strain the materials,
but fit it does from the bust to far below
the hips like glove At the top the coat
ends just across the top of the bust and it
closes down the front to the waist line,
where it begins TO separate, and the skirts
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-21
PARIS FASHIONS.
tsasa@sas,,s,sss,,sass,s,s i,
Special Correspondence of The Star.

Special Correspondence Of The Star.
PARIS, May 6, 1905.
In the minds of most of US here at the
gay capital Paris at the present moment
spells paradise The air is clear, bright
and sparkling. In the Champs Elysees the
giant magnolia trees are in milk-white
flower, and everything in nature is bright
and smiling.
Apropos of smiles, how few of them are
visible on the faces of those we pass in the
streets! There are sad faces even in this
lively city. vacant faces and cross faces,
but how seldom a smiling one, And yet to
smile fulfills one of the first duties toward
our neighhors. Not quarter of the facial