davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29
GRACE OF MANNER WANTED.
A Plea for Improvement in English
Women-Wherein They Fail.

From the Ladies Pictorial.
We are not prepared, as a rule, to admit
that our grandmothers, and their mothers
before them, were very wise in their re-
spective generations, but at least we are
bound to acknowledge that they certainly
much better understood in those days how
to produce and cultivate grace OF manner
and bearing in girls than we do now. We
have gymnasia, which they had not; we are
taught physical culture on the latest scien-
tifc principles-of this they understood
nothing.
Our girls live in the open air. walk, BIZ
cycle, motor play all manner of athletic
games. while their grandmothers and great
grandmothers were reared Ire dollhouse
plants
We no longer squeeze in our waists or
try to keep our feet small. they did, and
yet, withal, the horrible truth must be adj
mitted and faced that we possess none of
their grace that our department is faulty,
and that the pretty lines of face and figure
which all women of gentle birth possessed
half a century or more ago have not come
to US.
And, finally, that we are sadly deficient
in the courtesy which then seemed wom-
ans natural attribute, but which, as a mat
ter of fact. was taught her from babyhood,
like stftchery and the use of the globes.
Something must be rotten in the state of
Denmark to have brought about the un-
are always drilling, massaging and devel-
oping ourselves, 1t is becoming abundant
ly clear that our so much despised and
pitied forbears did know great deal more
than We do about training up a girl in the
graceful way she should go. and turning
her out a courteous, charming woman
What We really lack nowadays Is de-
pertinent. Our girls never learn this at
home. at school. or in the dancing class.
What girl is now taught how to come into
room, to enter and leave carriage with
grace, to make a bow properly, to move
everywhere with ease and yet display her
figure to the best advantageg Few modern
women can walk. dance, or stand. hold up
their skirts. greet their friends by an in
clination of the head or grasp OF the hand
in a thoroughly graceful fashion, yet even
we see for ourselves what care is taken to
drill them and how they have been physi-
caily trained till they hare grown alarm
inEiy big. This then h not the way to do
1t. and II ever we are again to have a race
OF women who can carry themselves we'll
impress other nations by their gentleness
and graceful bearing, and restore to Eng
land the Cultivated manner. we shall
most certainly have to bark back to the
methods Of the old-fashIoned sci1oolmis-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29
Domestic Help is Scarce.

From the Newark Advertiser.
The servant-girl question Is of more I'M
mediate concern in thousands OF mousse
holds than any other, and IT presents a
nroblem that seems impossible OF solution.
The situation presented grows worse In
stead of better Ii is now harder to get
good domestic help than II was ten years
ago when the complaint of the inefficiency
Of women In domestic service was general
The manager of a large employment agency
gives this testimony:
ct have been in the business for the last
twenty years, and never in all my expert
ence has help been so scare; that is, women
and girls for domestic service. I cannot ac-
count for their scarcity except that girls
nowadays have specialties and do not en-
gage for general homework as they used
to- Then many of the women and girls who
ten years ago would have been glad OF q
good home with fair wages now get situa-
lions In stores as saleswomen, in factories
running various kinds of machines, and
typewriting has spoiled many a good house
servant"
Prosperous times account to some extent
for the scarcity of domestic help. The fac
tories offer employment for women and at
tract those who would be the most capable
in housework. Even the female immigrant.
ifter she has become familiarixed with
American life, becomes ayerSe to domestic
service, and looks for wages and fndepend-
ence In some other occupation. Hard times
win compel many of these women to take
places servants. but the problem of do
nestle help viii remain unsolved until II
Ii taken up and dealt with In large way
by organised effort. aided By tho stats.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

they would be Indispensable for smart call
ing and afternoon wear, but from practi-
cal point of view it is hard to give up the
comfortable blouse worn with the coat and
skirt. though the fitted bodice Is a pleasing
change from the separate colored blouse.
By the way. there Is distinct line drawn
in these separate waists. the smart edict
being that blouse OF chiffon cloth match
ing the skirt or a white lingerie affair Is
the only one approved of Dame Fashion
II you want to be particularly swagger
have your initials in small letters eubroid-
cred in the folds of your lingerie shirt
waist.
Directoire coats are stunning and the
variations in them innumerable. One swag-
ger model is in brown cloth with rather
deep pointed revers and collar OF velvet
embossed with cloth outlined with gold
braid. A deep gauntlet cuff carried out In
tbs same way 10 the sleeve finish. The
skirt worn with this coat is perfectly plain.
SIN another style Of directoire coat shows
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

" resemble each other. has among her hats
one fetching affair OF white felt, a sailor IN
shape. It is OF fair size. not exaggerated.
and Tits only slightly over the nose. A
fold OF black velvet with a small bow at
one side near the front goes around the low,
round crown, and small black feather-a
cross between a wing and quiils-is placed
at the left. slanting upward. The bow Of
velvet comes at the base OF the feathers
The moderately wide brfrn 10 faced with
black velvet 10 within a half inch of the
edge and In the back the bandeau ts coy
cred with black velvet in unobtrusiye knots
and loops.
Miss Sybil Douglas, who was with Mrs.
Woodward wore a dark-blue hat. rathsr
small one, with the back turned abruptly
back to the crown. but having blue ostrich
tips in various shades falling over the BACK
as well as toward the front. ana fheTepy
nr.acticalIy obltterating the original outline
of the hat Blue tips We're also used around
the sides This hat topped a simple dark
blue costume, having an almost plain, de-
cidedly short skirt and an Elton jacket, the
latter ending an inch or so from the bell
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

the left side with a white camellia
Another black velvet hat has a garland
of colored silk roses upon a dead gold gal
loon and a band of fur placed above the
line of gold Round crowned hats In gray
velvet, with panaohe OF gray feathers at
the back, are smart. But for evening wear
there is nothing newer than tulle hats
trimmed with sunflowers In every conceiv-
able shade of pink. yellow and strawberry.
OF course, / do not mean a mingling OF
these tones, but the employing of a single
tint. which. In the hands of an experienced
person, ought to turn out a charming crea-
ton.
The big granny pokes OF chiffon and
tulle are very fetching with their quaint
arrangement of feathers and long strings.
which are either tied under the chin or al
lowed to hang down in the front.
Wells drape some of the smartest hats and
are drawn back floating in soft, airy folds
that are most attractive. Under them is
applied gold braid, which betrays itself only
in faint glints and gllmmers and is most
alluring and becoming.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

laid nat. Such a costume. made of any
serviCeable wooden material topped by a
small hat. is suitable and smart for damp
days. These costumes should follow the
same fashionable mode in their cut and
the material be of the best quality. 50 that
they may be worn on changeable days and
look equally smart in the sunshine and the
rain.
While smooth materials. like cravenette.
have been almost universally adopted for
ratncoats, the suitings for coat and skirt
costumes that most readily repel the water
and keep the wearer dry are those having
furze-like roughness in wool over the sur
face This alone Is sufficient on an or
binary rainy day TO keep the water from
reaching the solid back of the material
and even when exposed TO the pouring rain
for hours this solid back. if Of wool does
not wet through any easier than the So
called rainproof smooth goods The writer
has demonstrated this fact in practice.
Soft French felts trimmed with plain
quilts of good quality make the best rainy
weather hats, and these hats should be
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

and showing the white underblouse. This
Jacket had sleeves which were wide and
f,aring in effect, made SO by the use of
plaits. A line of white braid or bit of
piping showed around the edge of the jacket
and its sleeves. and also perpendicularly on
the skirt.
While the tailored costume for ceremoni-
Gus occasions and ''dressy'' wear-would
some one could invent a word to take tho
place OF the prebean "dressy''-the severely
tailored costumes for street wear have long
coats of either three-quarter or even longer
lengths. These long coats can be made
suitable for any figure, except the very fat,
but anything and everything is hopeless on
that.
The short-skirted coat is not having the
vogue that might have been expected. 1t
lacks The style of either the abbreviated or
really long coat, eXaggerates the hips of
the plump, while on the other hand 1T seems
to accentuate the hipless condition. This
style of coat is in reality best adapted to
women of middle live with slender figures.
although there is no reason why these
women should not adopt the smart long
coat or the more jaunty Eton.
The Princess skirt and bolero coat are as
much seen as ever, but the Princess skirt
Is in many ordinary, ready-made
costumes that 1t no longer holds the place
1t once had, although, as in other costumes
material and cut make the Princess cos
tune different In everything but name from
its chief imitation The Princess costume
has been worn by every style Of fig
ure from the painfully thin to the ridicu-
lousy stout. and undoubtedly. each type has
prlded herself on some imaginary beauty OF
form or grace of carriage to warrant its
choice. It is wiser, however, to select some
other-almost any other-mode than this.
MARIE WELDON.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

our girls from overmuch hockey. and insist
that they shall be "ladylke" above all
things. We shall. doubtless. have hard
fight to get back to this state of anairs
The modern girl ID very much out OF hand
at present. and, like Harriet. who fatally
played with matches she will not take al
vice" but one has hopes that there VIII De
a reaction, and in due course we SHAH re-
vert TO the old methods of Teachings the art
OF feminine grace.
There is 20 reason why physical culture
and all outdoor exercises should not nave
due regard paid to them, but in combina-
ton we must rfgidly enforce ease of move
ment. quietness of manner. together with
a certain formally. less self-eonsciousBess
and less speed and general offhanoedness.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29
(e&5 Xs@d2N@aw5 85@&Nd }

unless for a few short hours at time.
though thin women as rule have large
waists and plump women small ones, both
being seemingly natural.
If women would by the fashioning of
their garments improve their figures or con-
ceal their defects instead of attempting TO
deceive a by no means blind public with
numberless articles, grace and beauty
would far more often be the result than
with the present devices.
Skinny arms should not be shown in short
or diaphanous sleeves, nor fiat chests out
lined by close bodces. nor small hips de-
fined by tight skirts, and above all. large
waists should not be emphasized by belts
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29
Modification Of the "High Backo Idea
From the Millinery Trade Review.

Many hats appear to be trimmed much
higher at the back than they really are.
owing to their forward inclination 1t must
not be imagined that because a certain STYLE
of wearing hats has been adopted. anything
like sameness is to be apprehended For
one thing. great diversity is to be noted in
the shapes and crowns. and the Importance
OF the crown Is manifest under existing cir
cumstances. 1t Is placed full in view, ow-
ing to the forward slant OF the shape. and
by trimmings.
Productive of almost endless variety also
is what we call here the movement given
to the brim: that Is to say. the particular
curve or roll 1t is made to take, or the way
1t Is turned up at the back or side More
over. brima may be wide or narrow. All
widths are accepted, although medium
widths will perhaps be the most generally
adopted for the present.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29


NEW YORK. october IS 1893.
With the advent of November, bringing
with It chill winds and stormy days heavier
coats a considered, and the homely pa'
useful raincoat comes to the fore Tor tHe
woman who walks. although many street
costumes in coats and skirts OF various
cuts the former always pain and the id'-
ter always short. are made up especiaiIS
for stormy weather. thus doing away VII"
the rdincoat altogether
Perhaps the best model for ra-hy
weather costume is a tight coat with ski Is
coming halfway to the knees and sNlr'
anywhere from four to six inches from the
pavement The skirt should be faced "lth
rain-proofed material. and the coat sleeves
should not be large and awkward Inc
collar to the coat should be so made that
a. may be turned up around the ears or
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

Mrs. George Gould. who is in town, is
wearing a very pale gray, which suits her
pronounced brunette beauty.
Her gray hat Is rather small and of the
toque order. and her full draped coat is of
glistening silver gray broadcloth. This
coat has full sleeves, and the body is
draped In some way so that 1t falls from
the shoulders in graceful lines
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-29

Mrs William Woodward. who was one OF
the three Cryder triplets. all of whom closes
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1905-05-18
FAMILY QUARREL
AIRED IN COURT.
Women Become Excited and ln'
dug, In Considerable
Loud Talk,
GIRLS ASSAULT MRS. ADAMS
This the Cause OF n Sensational llcar-
log Before Judge Brown Of
Juysplc Court

A family quarrel between two families
residing on seventh West street be-
tween Second and third South streets
was Fought out AZ considerable length
In the Juvenile court today before judge
Brown Tho ladies' interested IN the
case became very psoltol during tho
hearing and some loud talk wnb IN
dulg01 In By them but no one was hurt
II appeared from tho evidence that Mrs,
AdnnO on Monday was attacked by two
young girls named Bessie ana Lula
Allen, and was rather roughly handled,
Fho was struck In the face, when waS
somewhat bruised aud swollen from the
effects Of the aot.to.
The girls ana their father said thnt
Mrs, Adams had provoked them 10
make the attack by making fuh OF
their little brother, who N afflicted WIN
a. Vltus dance They also claimed
that he woman hO1 been calling tholr
mother bad names, Mrs, Adams denied
the charges and said that The girls woro
10 blame for the whole affair and had
made threats that they would beat her
untIl there was no, a grease spot left
Al the conclusion of the hearing
judge BrcSn discharged Lula but
placed Bessie on probation ana turned
her over to Probation Olllcer Mrs,Houng
10 watch over,
There were two boys committed TO
the reform school today by the court
for pott larceny Sentence was sus-
pended during their good behavior,
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1905-05-18
M0TAER-|N-LAW
STOLE THE DEED.
At Least, This Is Allegation
George clIssoId Makes Against
Ella Rober,ShaW
he NOW SUES 70 RECOVER IT.
Latler's Wife II Dead, Hence Defend
AHt Claims the Title Ia
Tee to Property

Suit 10 set aside q deed, which, II Is
alleged. was stolen from him and plac.
cd on record In the county recorders
Office, has been hlcd In The district
court by George ClIssold against hs
mo,her'in-law, Ella NJ Robcrlshaw'
The complaint alleges that, on Dec D.
1893 plaintiff executed deed TO 2AS
10 rods OF land In block 2S, plat q, IN
favor OF his wife, There was no consd.
Grafton for the deed and II II alleged
that II was agreed That he should koop
the deed In hIs possession and " should
not be recorded unless no died before
his Wife
Mrs clssod died on March y, 1905,
ana IN her win she uonthcd all OF
her real estate to plaintiff for NE, the
remainder TO her mother for life, and
the fee simple 10 the property 70 Jossl.
mine Il. SchiycrkoE the sister OF do
ceased Tho latter Ia also dead, conso'
quenlly Mrs, Roborshaw claims the IT,
tie In fec, Plaintiff alleges that after
bis WHO'S death the deed was stolen
from him, ana placed on record, ana
even since then Mrs Roborlshnw has
clio ned the title 10 the land II IL
ask ID that the deed be set aside, ANA
tina plaintiffs tile TO The property DO
qulated,
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1905-05-18
MRS. MELLOR ANSWERS.
Denies mat She owes DR.. willard Any
Money NJ All,

Mrs, Mite Melor has iilCd her ans.
wer In the district court TO the COM
plnint fled against her by Or, J. n,
willard IN which she dCnes that she
owes him anything for bills paid by him
for her while he acted az her conn
DENTAL adviser IN the handling OF her
husbands estate valued a, 100000, She
also put IN countcr.claIm alleging
that he owes her $1,000 which she
loaned him under promise that he
would repay II within a reasonable
time. That was eight years ago ana
she thinks that reasonable time has
elapsed and hence asks Judgment for
the FUN amount and interest
II appears from the answer that the
friendship which existed between plain
TIT and defendant during the lie OF Mr.
Mcllor apparently rIpcned into love nf-
ter his death and AT the time OF tho
transaction mentioned by him In his
complaint they were engaged TO be mar.
rled She claims that he collected $500
for the sale OF property belonging to
her husbands estate and expended part
OF II In paying some Of her bills,
he came to her with n paper OF some
character to sign which she supposed
was receipt for the money paid out
by him, She relied upon his friend
shin, ana trusting him M she did, she
signed II without reading II ovor she
now alleges that this paper " the basis
OF the suit he filcd against her In which
he claims that she owes him several
hundred dollars, After tho papet was
signed abe alleges that he broke the
engagement which existed and Tilted
her
She asks that no take nothing by
his action, aud that she have Judgment
for the money loaned toge her WIN ln'
terost on the same at tho legal rate,
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1905-05-18
SOCIAL AND
PERSONAL.

Yesterday afternoon Miss Nellie
Rood ana Mr. Philip 3, Meyer were
married, the wedding taking place nv
the homo OF tho brides father George
W, Reed, The rooms were effectively
decorated IN bridal wreath ana cnrnR'
long, ana the ceremony was performed
by bishop O, w. whitney IN the pros'
onoo OF the near relatives and friends
The bride wore gown of champaign
clopo de chine and carried bride roses
Her going away gown was OF navy
blue cloth An Informal reception fol,
lowed the ceremony ana later Mr. and
Mrs Meyer left for Evanston, Wyo,
where they VIII MAKO their home
Mr. James w, Ncll Of Butte Is IN
the city for few. day''
Mrs. George H. Wood IL visiting
Few days with friend. N Provo
Mrs Elizabeth Dunbar who has been
oIondlng some time IN the onst with
her daughter Both, returned with her
today
Mrs J, n, Jennings, Mrs sharp and
Miss Mamie sharp have returned from
california,
one NJ Yesterdays pretty nffalrs was
the bridge party given by Mira. McCha-
koll M her apartments In the whitehall
The decorations were IN white and purs
plo iris ana about " guests enjoyed
the ONcnt,
Miss Florence street was guest Of
honor yesterday at delightful Kons
sugton given by Mrs, W. II, Bpmcl,
the decora tons being artistic ana tho
entire nffnlr u charming one, Today
Mira, Frank white entertained at u
rrotty AFFAIR IN her honor
Mr. and Mrs j, r, Cobb leave to-
night Tor California
Mr. and Mrs, Robert Blngford nro IN
thc city visiting their niece, Mrs, H.
D. Love, $50 Third street
Mrs NJ ", Blngford, after an nh.
scnce " two years IN Nebraska, hus
returned TO salt Lake CITY
Deseret evening news. [volume] (Great Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1867-1920, 1905-05-18
REPLY TO TAXPAYER"
Trustees Of Thirty'Nnth District Take
Him to Task.

To the Edltor
MN Creek, May live, the trus.
tees " school district 30, beg leave 10
reply TO a "TnS Payers Protest" M II
appeared In Tuesday evenings News
We are almost convinced that the gen.
,loman has not attended any meetings
whatever during the past year or two,
n not more, pertaining 10 school mat.
tors, Oh account OF his very limited
knowledge of the AFFAIRS Of the district
We know no was not NJ the tax election
held rno year ago, ~ the two gonlle-
men ether than the trustees who voted
are row out Of the state, lie would
have Nv think too, that II waa all on
account OF his not having seen any
posters,
We feel that ave are not responsible
for The gontlemans poor vision, The
notices were duly posted ~ prescribed
by law ON all occasions, In at least four
conspicuous places IN the district ana
we know tIll after the elections,
lie displays ignorance Of tho way the
district vas bonded, We would inform
him that the bonds Arc due IN 20 years,
payable any time after 10 years, ana
that this levy has nothing whatever TO
do with tie bonds The people " the
district IN moving assembled declared
their appreciation ana entire
satisfaction with the now
pchoolhouse ana lte cost which wns
$3.50, On account OF the low yalun.
tIon OF the district II could only no
bonded for 1880 leaving n balance Of
$500 60 be met by special lovy Per.
haps TAX payer had some other way
NJ providing n, but II IL too late now
10 be advantageous 10 the district
Would the gentleman have had M wait
tIll he had soon a poster before pro.
coodn- 10 ballot or went away without
voting, because there was not n larger
number PRESENT. His nlknll beds would
undoubtedly have raised more lucern
ana the Hloughs would have been trans.
formed into springs OF living water
We know NJ no meeting whore II was
voted 10 meet this debt ne gradually as
we could, Hut We have tried 10 do so,
The gentleman says that II proper
notice had been given some good cltl-
zen might have been there 10 vote with
the other mcmhcrs Of the board
This IN too much OF "A parable for vs.
M two trustees were present and voted
ana the other was absent and hence
could not vote, We think n the gen.
tlomon IN Ms travels IN the future will
occasionally turn hls face 10 the right
hand ana 10 the loft, ne may porchanoe
II his vision ls improved, SPY u poster
declaring that another tax election Ia
NJ hand, when he would have another
chance 10 become more familiar with
school affairs Of the district,
j. y. HAMILTON,
j, II, NILNON,
ClIAs, DELL,
Trustees,