The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-11-22
Gowns
of the Tailor
Genre.
Their Many Charms and
Possibilities.
The Mode in velvet.

That this ls pre- eminently q season OF
color is perhcDs emphasized In the velvet
field more than elsewhere Once upon q
time black velveIs led all the rest, but
today it is the velvet Of soft colorlng
that Is smiled upon by fashion. A deep
shade of bronze green chiffon velvet OF
lustrous surface is exquisitely embrold-
cred In cream, pale yellow and willow
green in discreet touches upon the coat
while the skirt-like most OF the best
modeIs-is left unadorned- The perfec-
tion Of cut and line Is considered SUI
fcfent trimming so far as skirts are con
cerned this season. The coats Is built
somew hat after the Dtrectoire mode, the
semi-ftted fronts rolled back with revers
to display the embroidered vest. and the
back arranged with a position that Is
fashionably full. The sleeve Is full
throughout, ending at the wrist In an em-
broidered cuff. The skirt is one Of those
full circular jupes, with bias band lined
with haircIoth on the hem, some cOrding
appearing on both the bias and the velvet
above it.
short Coat Maintains its Vogue.
In spite of the number OF long-coatea
suits that many exclusive houses are dis
playing, the little shOrt-coated design
maintains all of Its vogue. The one
shown is in q soft shade OF chaudrou
broadcloth, with velvet OF a deeper tint
The coat is one Of those loose Eton az
velvet, oyerlaid with Irish crochet. Plain
velvet with just e touch OF copper en-
broidery forms = shallow vest ia front,
anu the edge Of the loose coat Is dec
grated with design in velvet all around
The sleeve is fashlonabiy full throughout
with the tapering line below the elbc-f
that is so modish, and the Gun strapped
with velvet aud having a finish Of Irish
crochet. The skirt las a closely ntred
top darted over the hips and q deep
double box -pleated hounce Is applied
above the knee, the upper skirt laid o
founce. That new length in dressy
skirts Is displayed, the front well touch
ing the floor, and the sides and back
lying for some four or more inches.
A TaiIOr-made on Smart Lines.
The severely tailored two-piece suit.
which has for several seasons past been
some what in the background, its place
having been taken by dressier modes, mas
this season come forward with ali Of lie
old popularity, and is being received
most Enthusiastically This model shows
double breasted, tight-n1tiug jacket OF
hip length, the collar and euus OF which
are inset with a golden broWa velvet, the
material being brown and white broken
check. The strapplng on either side OF
the front covers q seam which extends
from the middle OF the shoulder line 10
the bottom Of the jacket, this seam sery-
ing to give a more perfect 1T This same
strapplng appears in two rows on the
bottom OF the plain skirt, which Is cut
with a front panel and circular Sides the
strappings also trimming the seams u
this panel With such q costume Is worn
one OF the many small and jauuty hars
Of this season, which IN this Instance Is
plateau Of gray French felt manipulated
into toque shape and trimmed IN a most
novel fashion with ribbon and wings
The Elaborate TaIIox-mads.
The long-coated suit Is varioualy ax-
pressed this season, but there is q certain
unanimity on the part OF the taIlors that
a rich brOadcioth Is the vest vehicle Tor
their work. A soft shade OF deem rose
red, just what one sees In a Jacouernipot
rose, is employed for this smart desivn-
and there Is just a touch Of velvet richly
embroidered, that makes a suggestion ~
q vest edging. taffeta passementerie
is used to border the open front All ~
way down, and the easy fulness OF rha
top drops into q smarLly curved celnture.
The coat skirts are applied with a pref
tily shaped hip seam, deep Dleats n fhe
center front and back, making for =
graceful fulness. The sleeve fs a m
gigot model. the shoulder built out-fu shs
form of cap. and the fulness taperinx
somewhat below the elbow drops Into q
stir cud that rises well up from ne
wrist