davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24
A Seasonable Fete.
From Harper's Bazaar.


pretty variation on the regular thar
vest home" festival was made last year by
the young people of church in one of our
smaller cities. They called it ''The feast of
pumpkins and that useful and cheerful
vegetable formed the vasis of the whole
affair The hall was decorated with two
shades of yellow bunting, the deep orange
yellow of the pumpkin and the lighter yell
low of the Hubbard squash. Where the
buEting was festooned It was caught up
with punches OF corn. The husks were torn
open or turned back. showing the yellow
grain on the cob. The Mattresses were ell
dressed in yellow, with conveutionalized
squash flower made of tissue paper in their
hafr instead of a cap AT intervals were
great 'Jdck-o'- lanterns' made of the pump
kins with electric lights inside instead of
the traditional candle. The tables were or
namented with pumpkins followed out so as
to form great bowls. These were filed with
autumn leaves and flowers. The water for
these decorations was put in a bowl which
was placed inside the pumpkin. The menu
included besides the regular haryest-supper
farce such delicacies baked pumpkin.
pumpkin pudding pumpkin bread and
pumpkin ice! The last named was a very
yellow orange Ice frozen IN individual
pun: pkin molds. At the table where were
sold the fancy articles and souvenirs of the
occasion there were pretty little pincush-
ions made to initiate pumpkins, and bon
WHICH were cniIld JACKIE Ian
terrs' filled with yellow candies.
Wreaths of all kinds are much used for
evening wear. For the hair, Wreaths of
tiny flowers. ending In two points In front
are favored by Young English girls. Larger
flowers are also used. wreath of scarlet
peoples is most effective on black or dark
brown hair. Holly viii be popular later
on, but this means very careful arrange
ment and should only be worn when the
hair Is abundant. 1t has. however the adj
vantage of looking we'll with dark or blond
hair and even with the dull shades
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24
PARIS FASHIONS

PARIS. September Q.

PARIS. September Q. 1905.
The sensation OF the week here at the
Vile Lumiere has been a smart FRANCO
Chinese wedding. The contracting par
ties were, Mile. Louise Sauvajst and M.
Sue Tsu Fa, attache of the Chinese lega-
tion A crowd of tourists and struggling
Parisians made up throng of curious
spectators around the Madeline Church.
where the ceremony took place The
bridegroom in his gorgeous blue silk and
gold-embroidered robes, together with
his father and many other Cinnamon,
who came In their national costume. made
a scene rarely witnessed In Partisan
church. The bride looked graceful in her
princess gown of white satin flounced
with tulle and garnished with orange
blossoms. The bridegroom's mother. who
Is French. wore an elegant toilet OF
mauve silk incrusted with lace and en-
broidery. Altogether 1t was most brill
liant and original wedding
Where withal shall We be clothed?" is
the text from which every couturiere is
preaching these early fall days. The
modes. to be sure, are launched. but
whether they will ride the wave of ponu
lar fancy or sink unt1oticed in the sea of
oblivion is left to capricious femininity-
and the next few weeks--to decide = Ru-
minating upon fashions. one soon reaches
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24

in and extended from the little yoke to be-
low the hips The hip yoke alluded to was
cut in blunt points, and these points were
not over four inches deep. This yoke was
outlined where 1t oyerlapped the plaits. and
was stitched down with line of half-inch
blue passementerie. Above this yoke was
shaped q girdle formed of tightly drawn
folds of the cloth. and this extended up I'M
der the bolero above II.
On line four inches above the knees
there was an insertion of Irish crochet lace
four inches wide. Below this came cloth
section laid in rib tucks an inch apart, and
below this. some six inches from the door
line, was a much wider band OF the lace
that widened out at intervals into huge
flowers. Below this came circular ho,lnce
of the cloth having half dozen quarter
inch folds OF the cloth stitched on around
the edges, and above these the cloth was
cut out IN broderie angiaise fashion In seal
loos and stars.
The bolero was loose and hung In folds at
the bottom some six inches above the waist
line, where four. of the quarterback strap
pings of the cloth were stitched down.
Above these came line of the cut work in
shallow scallops and stars, and above this
on each side were large star-like flowers III
the Irish crochet, the upper ends of the
petals extending up over the fold of brown
velvet that formed a three-fnch finish along
the edge, the velvet tapering down to points
a the center front. where it was terminated
in small bow.
The sleeves were huge puffs at the top
+ encircled by narrow strappings having be-
low them the scallops and stars in cut Work.
Just below the cut work the sleeves were
gathered in. and much smaller puffs or the
plain cloth were formed above the elbows,
At the elbow plain bands of the cloth with
narrow ruffie-like band of the crochet on
each edge with a brown velvet bow at the
back, completed the sleeves.
The hat topping this costume was large
one OF brown chip trimmed with chous of
blue satin ribbon at the right and large
shaded brown velvet roses at the right and
back. Knots of the blue ribbon and large
brown velvet roses formed a cachepeigne at
the back MARIE WELDON.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24

vet season but whether silk will attain
the vogue promised for 1t this summer and
not fulfilled Is a question In futures. Ger
talnly the handsome broadcloths with
panne and chiffon finish will be made up
into drsssy gowns while the serges chew
lots and tweeds in charming mixtures and
plaids in two tones OF the same shade are
the fabrics so far displayed for street wear
Chenille In perfectly blended effects WOW
en- with braid, silk and velvet is TO make
the smart hats. These chapeaux are of
course made hats and are arranged over
wire frames bent and curved in all sorts OF
fancfful shapes. Brins on most of the
new models are curved upward and the
French sailor with curved sides and tilted
high in the back is a prominent feature in
millinery. Soft satin ribbon and feathers
that have the appearance OF having been
out in the rain are much in evidence as
trimmings. Turbars. modified mar1uise
and torpedo toques, the latter not cutie so
pointed as the older shapes, are ali to be
winter fsvorites.
An attractive little toque for dennl-season
wear has its brim made of folded cream
coiored felt and the crown Of hunters
green velvet. Under the brim are placed
folds of white tuile- to give a becoming
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24

plain scarlet paper broken into panels. by
ivory white holdings, the window frames.
doors, ETC., all in ivory white, and the whole
effect is stunning. Charming effects in
chintz are being used just now for bed
rooms. and tone In beautifully with ma
hogany furniture. much better, in fact,
than modern high-art wall paper, which,
used In this conjunction. Is ridiculous in the
extreme The curtains. coverlet and wall
paper should be in keeping. and by study
ing the whole and avoiding discordant notes
good effects are obtained
Drawing rooms in small houses are more
or less difficult to decorate. The most rest
full color for an apartment of this kind Is
a soft green with ivory woodwork. With
duh green floor filler overlald with one or
two oriental rugs quite charming color
Eote Is struck. Green goes with so many
different shades that you can afford TO be
original in upholstering. Pink as a con-
trast Is rather hackneyed, but mauves,
darker greens and golden browns are all
effective as contrasts.
For the dining room red Is q fHvorite coll
or but delft blue is equally pleasing. With
this color the furniture should not be OF
dark wood. as the coutrast Is too sudden.
Light oak 4 best n al rooms coxy cOr-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24
SERVANTS OF YoRE.
Help Problem in olden Times Even
More Vexatious Than Now.

From the New York Tribune
That the servant problem was even more
vexatious in the early history of this coun-
try than 1t is now is evidenced by the writ
ten and printed records of those times. In
the old days many of the housemaids were
indentured to their masters" for a term of
years. and this deprived both parties of the
joy of giving notice" This indenture was
sometimes found to be as inconvenient and
as unsatisfactory as a three-year lease of a
house which has proved undesirable II a
wife found she had n bad servant she could
not discharge her until the contract time
was UP.
In the year I'LL John Winthrop and his
wife were in possession of help in the
shape OF spirited young Celt who had
been lndentured to them for four years
her .'golngs on would seem to Indicate
That history simply repeats itself in the
conduct of the housemaids of the present
time, for we find Winthrop writing thus
of his domestic treasure.
II Is not convenient now to write the
trouble and plague We have had with this
irish creature the year past. Lying and I'M
faithfuii; would doe things on purpose in
contradiction and yexation to her mistress:
I've out OF the house anights and have com
trivances with fellows that have been steal
M, m l,pm our estate and gett drink out of
We ceilar Tor them: sauey and impudent as
~nen We have taken her to task for her
wickedness she has gone away to COMPLAIN
Oh cruel usage. l can truly say we have
used this base creature with a great deal
or Kindness and lenity. She would frequent
~ take her mistress capps and stockings
hankerchers, etc. to dresse herseife and
away without leave among her companions.
may have said sometime or other when
she has been in fault that she was fltt to
live nowhere but in Virginia, and n she
would not mend her ways should send her
thither. tho am sure nobody would give
ner passage thither to have her service for
twenty years, she Is such a hi9h snirftao
pirnicfous jade
Robin has been run away neare ten
dayes, as you will see by the inclosed and
this creature knows OF his going and OF his
carrying out four dozen bottles of cyder.
methegiin and paine wine out Of the cell
lar, among the servants OF the town. ana
meat and | know not what. The bottles
they broke and threw away after they had
drunk up the liquor, and they got IN or
sheep anight, Killed fat one. roasted and
made merry with II before morning.
All this goes to. show that Madame VIM
throp and the housewives OF thia day hah
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24

good deal In common as regards domestic
trials. The maid eager to run nights Is
by no means OF type common to our day
alone. for It Ii now more than $50 years
since one of the first Corners to our coun-
try wrote home to England about his
within doors after we are CONN TO bed ex-
cept we carry the kay OF the door to bed
with u.s.
; Not even the carrying of the kay Of
of the '.JadeS from .traipsing'' o. nights.
This particular maid was so shiftless that
she would go to bed at night without tak-
ing the trouble to f'pluck off her Clothes
and her Incidence was so great that we are
told that she became ''fatt and soggy."
Maids who would and did run all the time
In those days brought upon themselves the
unenytable reputation or being 'legtrapes,.'
but they were probably SO dead in tres
passes that they cared little for the name.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24

g. The skirt or walking length of course
Was cut in a modified circular form Its
top was laid In scant plaits stitched down
20 the knees. II was plain about the bot
tom.
The Eton coat had a belt and the full coat
sleeves were SHAPED to De moderately large
at the top and middle far down as the
narrow band cuffs. which closed in tab
fashion with a large red cioth-covered but
ton on each tab. A seam extended from
the outside center of the arm from top to
bottom. curving slightly and shaping the
sleeve 80 that Il was full but wide ard
without gathers.
While confined at the bottom by q plain
band belt matching the coat, the fronts
swung out bit loose. and being unfastened
sF"-rei tle white underbioi.se- The top
:. = Il the coat and the side
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24

NEW YORK. September - 1905.
The fashionable restaurants at the lunch
con and dinner hour are now the best index
of what IS being worn. for none of the town
houses are yet open. and those who do not
dine at the hotels at which they may be
stopping are. perforce, compelled to lunch
and dire at the smart restaurants
launching at one several days ago with
her father, William A. Duer. who had just
arrived from Europe. was Mrs. Clarence
Mackay In "a black and white shepherds
plaid silk, with lines of pale blue inserted
here and there. and also decorated with
small but handsome fancy buttons. This
costume comprised long skirt and Elton
coat and the material was so arranged and
the skirt was so cut as 10 be very tight at
the top. wide at the bottom. but without
many folds; the material appeared from a
casual glance, 10 be specially shaped to this
end; sections of It were cut out and set in
large panel effects There WAS delicate.
embroidered CFelm-white material and also
lace in the collar and cuffs. The blouse
worn was of white linen. with insertions
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24

small Partisan affairs with moderately
high crown and narrow, irregular rolling
brim lifted high at the left back. A twist
OF heige-colored velvet was wound around
the crown and tied In fiat little bow at
the left front From this bow three wide,
full ostrich tips shading from cream in the
center TO deep beige at the sides and ends
fell over the entire crown and down over
the left side and back.
The gown was a simple one of some thin
creanl-colored stuff with many insertions of
lace of various widths, some of 1t piece
lace and some regular bands. The skirt
at the top, and the bodice was also gath
cred Both bodice and skirt chung to and
outlined her slight figure.
Mrs. William G. Rocker who was orig
inaily Miss Coudert and late Mrs W.
Gould Brokaw. wore a rose-colored hat at
c2fe dinner. 1t was trimmed with wide
ostrich tips of a deeper shade, the brim be-
ms apparently rolled up a little at the left
side front dividing the plumes that fell
back and down along the left side from the
piumes extending toward the right.
Mrs. William Fuller. who was Miss Mary
Sheldon, wore the other evening while din
ing in a smart 9TH avenue restaurant a
simple black frock, with trailing skirt.
ti4ifiilco With HuLlcfDuS u6ep tuCkS, and
having a round yoke and stock of white
lace over white chiffon. This yoke effect
extended TO below the bust line and a
scarf effect IN black went around IL two or
three inches above the lower edge The
sleeves were formed of several puffs of
white lace ending at the elbow In RULES.
and having twists of the gauzy black ma
terial between the puffs. The frock was
princess in effect
Mrs. Fuller's small black hat with its
turned-up rim. had a cluster of large white
ostrich tips starting up from the side OF
the crown. their ends dropping low at the
side.
q
Thursday was a decidedly chilly day, but
numerous short-sleeved white linen Eton
coats and skirts. handsomely embroidered.
were seen at the Waldorf-Astor!a at the
luncheon hour. 1t was a queer assemblage.
people from remote country towns were
seated here and there. both in and out of
the palm room. and many handsomely
gowned women were seated waiting for
friends or lunchfng with them.
One OF the hardsomest gowns seen at the
Waldorf was worn by woman In the palm
room. 1t was pale blue chiffon broad
cloth. The skirt traiied all around. The
top OF the skirt was laid In clusters OF Ave
shallow side piaits, each group q couple OF
inches from the next. These were stitched
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24

ners and window seats help out the deco
rative effect wonderfully at small expense.
Above all, never let the scheme Of the hall
and stairway be otherwise than artistic, as
ones first impression of the house is a
lasting one and ii the hall be inartistic no
room decoration will ever remove the first
Ear to ones artistic sense.
The living room should be the coolest
apartment in the house. There is 10 neces-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24

Excellent taste is required ia this art. a
true eye and knowledge of suitable COM
bination For example, photogra piis should
never be mixed with paintings. Have a
corner devoted to them and try to form a
design in your mind when hanging the
frames Do not have the square. oval and
panel frames all hung in fneoherent con-
fusion and never mix old prints with new
ones. The fine effect of really good old
print Is often lost by disregarding this rule
And speaking of rules. the first one 10 OBJ
serve in picture hanging is not to over
crowd the skyline BY that is meant an
imaginary line which should mark the top
of the picture frame. This skyline must
take height commensurate with the size
of the room. what that Is must be left for
the Individual to decide. Another rule Is
that the tops OF all frames grouped together
must be on level without regard to the
size of the pictures.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24
sity to sacrific comfort to appearance, as is
done In many drawing rooms.


done In many drawing rooms.
The furniture varies with individual taste.
The wall space In some living rooms will
be devoted to booksheives, and in others
the more up-to-date arrangement of low
shelves with a picture railing at the top
and plenty of space for picture hanging Is
desired. All tastes agree, however, In Xix
ing several large restfui armchairs and a
round table of sensible size. which holds
newspapers and magazines and serves as q
card table for convivial little parties. A
good knee hole writing table with plenty
Of drawers for correspondence. account
books and some good pictures-prefer-
ably prints-adds greatly to the attrac-
tons OF the room. On the question of
pictures hangs to large extent the choice
OF wall paper. II these are plentiful moth
ing forms q better background than>~s self
colored ingram paper. red or warm green.
with or without an effective frteze. But
should there be scarcity OF pictures, plain
paper must be avoided and enc with good
furnishing design be chosen
II carpet IL used pile weave In blues,
greens and reds or what Is called turkey
coloriug Is perhaps tho most aerviceable.
and this should ~ nade Into = NJ covering
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24

Of heavy linen haudwork. 1t had one of
the new high. stiff collars now the vogue
in Paris, with turnover of heavily en-
broidered linen. the cuffs being similarly
finished. The sleeves were not large and
the blouse Itself was quite close in it's fit
and had three tab-end effects IN the front
one in the center and the others at each
side. These loose labs were extensions of
the openwork insertions.
The hat worn was a large one. black
with quantities OF superb ostrich plumes
dropping at he side and back and having
bird Of paradise plumes in modified aigrette
effect Al the riSut toward the back
Mrs. Oliver II. P. Belmont when she same
into town to lunch with her daughter, the
Duchess of Marlborough. who arrived that
night. the Campania decking twelve hours
ahead OF the expected time was in black
for her sister. the Baroness de Fontilliat
who died in the summer Her frock was
black wolfe: the skirt which touched, had
several vide tuckS In It. beginning above
the knees. II was plated q bit at the top
The body was as simple as possible and the
sleeves were transparent from q little be-
low the elbows to the hands. tight fitting
at that point and having several wide
tucks or folds breaking the transparency
She wore rather small black ostrich
feather boa and a small black toque with
shining black chou at the left side near
the front.
Mrs. William Jay. who lunched with Mrs
Belmont. was also in black. but her blouse
was white. The Elton coat Just reached
the belt The sleeves were little more than
elbow length and quite wide at the bottom
Pain black silk braid an inch wide was
placed near the edge OF the sleeves and
went around the neck. strips of 1t also GO
ing down each side Of the back and across
the bottom. outlining large. wedge-shaped
section.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24
Fall Hints for
Home Decorations

5S;SSSS.S
1t is said that In their native clothing,
house decorations and surroundings the
Japanese never make a mistake In har-
mony OF coloring. Would that this same
exquisite feeling for things decorative were
also an American Characteristic. Still we
are making rapid strides, and aesthetic de-
velGpment along the very best lines IL 10
be seen on every side. but It would hardly
be truthful statement TO dub the love OF
harmony a universally national trait Too
many interior decorative effects that clash
and swear at canons of art rise up and con-
front one as evidence that the millennium
Is not here. For the most part we are all
DESTROYS of being artistic. and In their house
furnishings, at least, clever women are
making unpretentious homes most attractive
with the expenditure of very little money
when common sense and spirit of indus
try are added to the love of harmony An
other encouraging sign that progress Is be-
ing made Is the fact that In the case of
doing up room the professional deco
rator no longer holds undisputed sway. We
have learned well the lesson that II is the
artistic touch Of individuality that gives
room Its charm.
At this time of the year when the fall
fever of fixing up has seized most house
wives little talk on home decorations for
slender purses may be appreciated
In the first place. as regards the papering
or rooms, II Is wiSest, where economy is
necessary, to do away with ornate friezes
and paper The old familiar furniture will
not look shabby against plain, self-colored
background, nor will the picture frames
and, above all, the eyes will be rested on
these nat surfaces and tones, Pain white
friezes are being used in most of the realty
artistic houses and fats, and also white
holdings. The ceiling may appear slightly
lower when these conditions prevail htlt
the effect is altogether pleasing.
An idea much in favor is the white bed
ROOM in which the paper is white with
& tiny bordering at the top of running knots
OF ribbon or field flowers. This effect is
charming beyond words. although its de-
scription sounds bizarre. 1t was the orlgi-
nal Idea of a famous decorator who insists
that rooms should always be papered with
a view to the temperament of their occr,-
pants. Red he informed me, was the color
that above all warmed and cheered and In
q rather dark hall he has recently put a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24

windows are mistake but there are in
Vulnerable dark or semi-lark effects In
transparent materials that carry out the
character of the room without barring the
blessed sunlight.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-24

The greatest stumbling block of the anna
teur decorator IS the hanging OF pictures.
Long Valley advocate. (Lardo, Idaho) 1904-1907, 1905-09-14
wanted the Job Completed.

Andrew Pinkham, well known
farmer of North Monmouth, Me-, one
r. the towns solid men, and at one
time state senator, used to tell the fol-
lowing story on himself: When
was a young man, my brother Amsa
and myself were blowing one day /
was holding the plow. Amsa was
driving, and my father was having
general oversight Of the job. 1t was
very rocky ground. was rather stout
and was getting about winded. Final
" I could stand it no longer, and be-
tween gasps 1 called out, For thunder
sake, stop those horses, Amsa; you're
yanking the devil out Of me- Father
looked up, and, in his moderate way,
said. Drive on Amsa; drive ou-'"