Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-05-21

rare exceptions they are artistic, even
though the coloring only is TO De ciassed
under this term. The most discontinued
woman, however, cannot find cause for
grumbling as TO lack of variety in the sum-
mer shapes. But she may fuss about the
impossibility of making her last season
hat modsh for the new order of things.
Even to the uBdiscerning male mind there
Is something wrong with last years hat,
though he knows not what. To the fem
mime mind the solution is clear. Where
as the hats of year after year had broad
brims which tilted up over the face. today
they tilt up behind and are broader in the
back than in front. The wiseSt thing, If
one has courage enough to wear an old
creation, is to treat it as one does the de
mode sleeves, which are turned upside
downturn the front of the hat to the re-
quired angle with a bandeau covered with
flowers.
In coIoring. rich red violet straw trim
med with faded violet and pink roses min
gled with fOrget-me-notS is one of the lead
ing Partisan novelties. Blue is a favorite col
or on hats on account of it's adaptability to
every costume. Feathers and wings are
more used than is usual at this time of
the year. and a somewhat large wing or
wings are being placed slantng at the ex-
IRENE edge of the left brim of the round.
upturned French sailors, giving them
very jaunty appearance. a charming lit
tie hat worn by an elegante at the races
of pale green straw with a cache
peigne of green velvet ribbon and a scarf
of velvet embroidered with pompadour bou-
quets. At one side tuft of shaded mauve
ostrich tips placed al a sharp angle
where the hat was caught up.
Another dainty creation was a three-cor-
nered black Italian straw trimmed with
ruche of shaded rose-colored taffeta. The
edge of the brim was bordered with silver
galloon and a cachepeigne of deep red roses
formed the trimming at the back. These
chapeauX We're among the smartest milli-
merry efforts to be seen at the Longchamps
meeting. Black hats will again be seen
with white dresses. A cOlored g1rdie on the
white frock takes away the appearance of
mourning that black and white always has.
Any number of lingerie hats will be very
much worn this summer, made both of
broderie anglaise and lace. A lace or en-
broidered gown made en- princesse, with
parasol and hat of the same dentelle, is
very swagger and expensive costume. At
tractiye, too, are the French sailor shapes
covered with Irish lace and trimmed with
punches of roses or choux of shaded rib
bon in Vatican pinks, mauve and blue.
Lace and embroidery certainly have their
fingers very deep in fashions pie this sea-
son. There is A revival of the little bolero
of Irish crochet lace built on the lines of
the gypsy jacket. This tiny wrap is seam
less, cut out of an all-over piece of lace
where money is no object, but otherwise
cunningly contrived of different widths of
lace put together in mysterious way that
is easy to do and difficult to discover after
it is done. To insure perfect fit for the
gypsy jacket a pattern is first made of
muslin and then laid over the final ma
terial 1t is worn over a lingerie waist of
handkerchief linen trimmed with insertions
of Val. lace colored slip under the
blouse is added beauty.
Since we have veered around to the in
teresting subject of blouse waists praise
must be given our Partisan cousins for
their skill in making dainty lingerie blouses
which this summer are more exquisite than
ever
Fine linen, lawn. net and lace combined
with different laces. embroideries and hand
stitchery in all kinds of original and beau
tiful designs are the leading features of
these waists The seasons differences in
the new models lie in the cut. They give
a wide, broad appearance to the shoulders.
although the characterization a general
thing does not extend beyond the Shout
ders. The yoke that reaches to the arm
hole TO meet the sleeve is no longer the
mode. Three or four inches is the correct