The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-10-01
Contrast Strikes Keynote of
COlOred Appliques.
Fad for English Eyelet Work
Has Reappeared.
NEW LACES ON MARKET
Creams Have Supplanted the
Dead White Effect.
QuilIings and Ruchings Will
Still Be Used.

Contrast sounds the keynote in the
symphony of winter trimmings. A
thousand harmonies Of hand eInbroid-
cry, applique and machine-made braids
and bindings, which simulate hand
work, will set off the rich-tone house
and street gowns of 1905-1906.
The fad for English eyelet work,
which ragged so furiously on summer
linens, reappears in both brOadcloth
and silk trimmings. Where somber
hens once finished broadcloth skirts
and coats, the more festive scallop in
self-tone or a direct contrast, IS the
winters approved finish, and if inside
each scallop appears a bit of the eye
let work, the gown has the final touch
of smartness.
The puffy boullions which made last
seasons winter rainent so bunglesome
have given place almost entirely in
wool fabrics to the broderie Anglais
bands, and many of the box patterns
in popular tones of broadcloth show
machine eyelet work which defies all
but the expert ia Dame Fashions de-
crees.
Jeweled effects, decidedly reminiscent
of altar cloths, are frequently intro
ouced into this hand work on cloth
costumes, and they are particularly
striking when done on the rich purple
and plum shadings which are features
of the season.
In applique, self-tone velvet set off by
embroidered designs Interviewing col
ored silks and soutache braids, will be
used. For instance, a long box coat IN
a peculiar rich shade of tan, will have
collar, cuffs and pocket flaps OF a deep
er brown velvet set of by heur-de-lis
or military ornaments in gold bullion.
But it is in the broadclOth ap-
pIiques upon broadcloth that the Won
drously harmonious contrasts are
shown. AS an example of this
brown cloth suit viii have deep
trimming Of harmonious green broad
oJ-kT. -, 1ferr4n hal in TNia = IL
work of bronze silk which shades al
ternately into the green and the
brown. Odd browns are Sppiqued
upon brilliant reds, Persian and Chi
greens, and gold and white are com
bined riotously on reception. house and
evening frocks as we'll as on dressy
coats of all sorts.
A most brilliant effect is secured by
com fning machine-Wrought braIdS
with heavily encrusted appIiques @3n
nouveau art design. A house gown of
old rose supple bro&dcloth shows
heavy border in modified Greek design
of black silk novelty braid, and rising
from each square appears an applique
in soft Persian cOlorings, rose, green,
blue and yellow cleverly done by ma
chine
A trimming popular for vests is a
heavy machine embroidery so thick
as to suggest fur or plush. This IS IN
/ colors contrasting with the gown and
set off by more delicately embroidered
scroll work.
/ Cream lace and even deeper tones
| shading to ecru have suppianted the
dead white in vogue for summer
| dresses. An Argentine lace showing
/ lattice work with medallions inset, is
| extremely popular. Cluny lace APP
pears on wraps and cloth dresses
while a lace which is really maine net
overlaid with lace patterns will enjoy
a vogue for evening. Rose chiffon IS
an exquisite new candidate for favor
which promises to be too delicate to
/ become very common.
In trimmings to be made at home
quillings and ruchings will still be
used. Lace medallions of which the
French know the greatest possibilities,
will appear on evening and dressy