Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-07-08
FROM ACROSS THE SEA
HINTS ON MEMS DRESS FROM
ENGLISH CAPITAL.
Jacket Suits in Town and Country
Latitude in Lounges-Rules About
Fancy Waisscoats.


tual moment when a particular kind of out
ing comes into season. This has been the
case in the present summer. 1t set In rath-
er suddenly and found the town unprepared.
Dealers had small stocks but, having no
very definite ideas as to which way the cat
would jump. did not care to push their
commitments too far. Then came the hot
wave, and as result of sudden summeri-
ness Of weather, supervening upon COM
paratively small tailoring and Quitting
stocks at the west end we have decidedly
free-and-easy season. Almost anything
that is reasonably comfortable goes. T..
course we have learned to tolerate the Jack
ct suit in town already and the fact that
such suit can be worn with perfect ac-
ceptableness, where only couple of years
ago the morning coat was the minimum Is
nothing new But 1t was outing things that
l started in to write about, and l oniy
dragged forth the town lounge suit to men,
tion that the long, rolled lapel is here en-
tirely obsolete. You see it In the windows
and you see pictures of 1t in the catalogues
OF the cheap tailors; but in fashion it is
naoeht; 1t simply does not exist.
Outing Styles.
Great latitude exists in the matter of out
door and outing styles. The Panama hat is
not SO fashionable as 1t even was last wear
ana. or course. it was past its zenith
then. But in popular use there may be
rather more of 1t seen. Straw hats will he
worn In town as well as In country. There
are some very smart-looking Alpine and
"ioed"ake shaped white felt hats: but OF
course these are not SO light as straws. A
country walking suit is more often an or
u I'll. lounge than Norfolk, just now:
out NorfoIks will come into use again oil,
right after the opening of shooting prown
sh0es are optional; they are not so univer
soiy liked as they were couple of seasons
or SO ago. The plain, self-brown Jacket.
rnin.ary shape with high collar trousers to
made remarkable appearance in tho par,,
iast sunday. This, with brown howIar
constitutes quite the smartest town nc >
m t, there Is the least excuse for dronnine
dia,a ,iueA coat; and just now the interme.
oIate morning coat is momentari,y ~
Idshlon, though | expect it back any 49,
anueeu the absence of 1t Is no more than
accidental. The brown jacket is being rath
everu un INTO the ground and has crowded
everything but absolutely fulJ drese o,et
Brown came in very suddenlv T, ess our.
IN. ~ .he order OF things If it should 90 ont
just as suddenly; and then Won Wo Uus
s se all tn. the black coats of the cut
The smartest hot weather wat~t an. TO.
Town Is plain holland, string coIoreG ana
o9' nign' All wafstcoats are single-brea Ct
GU, PUN, ana none of them have collars.
WINCH seehi 10 nave been dropped entirely.
Glove Usage.
Engnsh usage about gloves differs from
the haolt OF some other countries Tn tho
summer, 1t Is not usual to wear gloves with
Jacket suit II the weather Is very warm
ou' pair OF gloves Is carried In one hand
oy most men. With a frock coat even IN
Lhe height of summer, at least one glove is
worn and when only one, it is the left hand
:; .at ~ sioVed The reason Of this is. that
i tn ctn1r@
pare hand; but 1t Is not correct tn rennove
glove Tor the specific purpose of so doing
except in one instance. If YOU attend q
ieVee OF the Prince of Wales, or stag re-
ceptlon by the king, the right glove must
De removed in any case because althougb
as RUE, the royal house will acknowledge
your DOW with similar (but somewhat
shshter) Inclination, he may elect to draw
you INTO conversation, and in that case will
snake hands with you. You NAV shake
nands out of doors with anyone and keen
the glove on (and 1t Is bad break to apoIo
glze for doing so); but never with royalty
AT ieVee, OF course, one is generally in
doors and on entering any house the glove
Is removed, though the hat and cane 0r
any must be carried into the reception
room ian umbrella Is always left down
stairs In the halD and when tea is served
the other glove is taken off also, and both
are put into a pocket. These regulations
are always observed.
AT night, white gloves are only worn for
mony, and they should not be worn out of
doors but put on in the dressing room at
a ball. Dinner dress does not include gloves
very few men wear gloves in a theater.
White gloves are always worn at the in
stallation ceremony Out not, of course. at
the succeeding banqueD of Masonic lodge.
At other Masonic ceremonies the custom
varies with different lodges, but, as a rule,
nothing but ordinary dinner dress Is worn.
The dress day glove of the present moment
Is a rich tan buck, of two button length
but with only one button. But pale drab
gloves of the same skin are also a good
deal seen. The yellow wash leather cham
OILS glove of recent seasons is not at all
worn now. Gold-tan kid dog skin gloves
with broad black stitching on the points
are never incorrect; they are a settled En-
glish institution, always assured of a GER
tain measure of favor.
Cravats.
Windsors, which the king and the Prince
of Wales have been wearing a good deal
lately, are taking considerable place as the
undress cravat of the day. The plain gold
slide is the fastening approved, and, of
course. these cravats, which have been out
of use ever since the old turn-down Oxford
collar went out of fashion, are only worn
with the fold collar. While spring over
coats were all made with the button holes
cut through the cloth, SO as to show the
buttons when fastened, the newest idea
In fancy waistcoats is to make them with
fly fronts to conceal the buttons. This style
Is not applied to anything but a silk or
cashmere waistcoat, and 1t makes trouble
with the only kind of watch chain now
used viz, the straight-across This does
not very much matter to men who observe
the strict rule about not wearing a chain in
full dress; but this rule Is long way from
being universally followed and, except as
regards evening clothes, 1t will gradually
disappear. Consequently the new waist
coat will most likely not have much of a
run to a marked degree.
Speaking just now of pajamas reminds
me that there Is q likelihood that we shall
have a big run on silk linens for sleeping
suits the moment the weather becomes
really hot. The beautiful fabrics obtained
by combining the two noblest yarns known
to man makes the coolest and most COM
Portable sleeping costumes In the world.
Linen, when used alone, Is trif1e too
fimsy, and 1t is also apt to be stiff1sh Silk
alone, on the other hand, goes to the other
extreme. You can, of course, have it in
any weight; but however thin 1t Is, 1t rucks
and forms discomforting creases, and It Is
also so slippery that by the time a man
has turned over in bed two or three times
on a hot night. the legs of his pants Cor
rather of the pants part of the pajama
suit are up over his knees. Now nothing
is less cool than to be entirely naked in
the bed clothes. and any approximation to