New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1905-03-26
"CabbaSe.s and Kings.
GastrononyThe Important Role That Cooking
Sometimes Plays International Politics.

i
lin since his accession to the throne, and it is
difficult to understand why his presence at the
table Of NJ Bihourd last week should have
created such widespread comment. unless 1t be
that he is said to have been prompted in this
particular instance by an alleged boast on the
part of the envoy to the effect that he pos
sessed the most perfect chef in the Prusslan
capital. While grave doubts may be expressed
as to whether The representative of the nation
famed above all others in Europe for Its courte-
sy ever gave utterance to so iibred a remark,
since it would have implied that the hospital
fly which he had received in Berlin was IN
ferior TO that which II was in his power to offer,
Yet Il IS after all, only natural that, IN view
of Frances acknowledged pre-eminence IN mat
tiers culinary. her Ambassador to Germany
should enjoy the services of chef better quail
fed than any other on the banks of the Spree
10 dispel the gastronomic ennui Of the TWEEN
tieth century Charlemagne.
For ennui on the part of the diner is always
one Of the greatest difficulties with which artists
OF the school OF Gonthier d'Anderdach, the
father OF French cookery. have to contend.
There IS nothing that becomes quickly faded
ss the palate A constant and uninterrupted
succession of epcurean chefs-d'uuvres ends In
palling on even the most vigorous digestion and
IT is only by arousing the interest Of the diner
that Il is possible to command his attention
This was a favorite argument Of my old friend
Verdier, the proprietor Of the Maison Doree at
Paris. who great philosopher in his way
and q man of vast experience. It was with this
object that ne would generally cause the maitrs
d'hotel TO prepare the sauce for the bird IN the
presence Of the guest. Two dainty little silver
saucepans, two little spirit OF wine lamps a
few bones of the bird and old cognac
were. as a rule. all that was necessary. The
sauce thus manufactured was perfect. and 1t
acquired additional relish in the eyes OF the
diner from the fact Of fits having been made
in his presence. Another famous boniface Of
the same opinion NJ Verdier in regard to
the necessity Of interesting his guests In the
food which they about to eat is the proprie-
Tor OF the great Ermitage restaurant, at Mos
COW. When a customer orders a fish for his
deJeuner or dinner, he is conducted 10 a great
marble basin and fountain In a beautiful win
ter garden. which constitutes the main hall of
the establishment. Trout and many other deli
cately favored members Of the inny world
swim about in the deep, clear water of the pond
long silk landing net is given to the guest,
and he is requested to select and to catch the
fish that tempts his fancy most This, as a
rule, adds to his interest and enjoyment and
appreciation Of the dinner which he is about TO
eat
Doubtless Ambassador Bihourd's chef found
means Of arousing the gastrononaic interest
of Emperor William, and the dinner at the
French mission left an agreeable impression
upon the monarch's mind an impression caicu-
lated to foster the good will and admiration
which he manifests on al occasions for France
for the Enjoys officer de bouche realized that
any failure in his art on that particular
evening might have led to international con-
sequences, since IN the case of rnonarchs
ano great statesmen digestive complications
are sometimes apt to result IN complica-
uons that are political That is why
chef constitutes important a member of the
staff Of an Ambassador. The latter often feels
that the whole success Of his mission depends
upon the skill. or, rather, I should say the
genius OF his cook. to whom he is ready 10 pay
salary several times large as that of any of
his secretaries. Indeed. the great Taileyrand.
when called upon TO arbitrate in a dispute be-
tween his chef. the celebrated Careme and the
principal secretary of his embassy In London.
decided fl favor Of the former, and got ria of
the latter on the ground that a good chef is a
lar more valuable treasure TO an envoy than
even the most experienced and capable of dipio-
matte secretaries. Lord Cromer owes no little
Of the marvellous success which he has achieved
in Egypt to the skill of the succession of splendid
chefs whom he has had In his employ at Cairo.
Fortunately. he is a rich man. and able to pay
20 the presiding deity of the agency kitchens
ceiyes salary from the British government
for administering not only the Land of the Nile,
but also the sad Soudan. His chefs. far more
than his secretaries, have assisted him to over
come difficulties, especially those Of interna-
uonal order for the foreign ENJOYS found it
difficult to maintain attitude of unfriendly
opposition toward a colleague who is famous not
only Cor his gracious and cordial hospitality, but
likewise for keeping the only table In the Egyp-
tian capital where one dimes really well.
Another English diplomat who was renowned
in his day for his incompatible chef was the
late Lord Lyons. who after representing his
country at Washington during the Civil War
died as Ambassador at Paris. It used to be said
that Lord Lyons had other objects in life
than his Queen. his country and his stomach.
and that he remained bachelor TO the end of
his days. not on account of any romantic and
unfortunate attachment, but because of his
fear that married life might impair his diges-
ton, as IL does that of most men. Lord Lyons
was great supporter Of vo.son's which used to
be celebrated from one end of Europe to the
other for it's wines, and which was In his dav
par excellence the fayorite dining place of those
old Partisan gourTnets who recognized no other
divinity than the kitchen god.
Talking OF Paris restaurants, I wonder how
many Americans who visit these temples OF the
gastroronic cult aware of the fact that the
dish water in which the plates and dishes ara
washed is only changed and renewed once In
every twelve months. Yet this is the strict
though ] can hardly call IL the sober truth. The
method is far less unclean, however, than II an
pears at FIRST sight. For the dish water after
standing for week so, develops strong
aEnmoniacal properties. which have the effect
of Immediately removing all grease from tho