The gold leaf. [volume] (Henderson, N.C.) 1881-1911, 1905-08-17

the sea front, but the city required the
grant Of a four feet wide walk all around
the coast. 1t is known as the 'Cliff
Walk" No horse. vehicle or byke is
allowed Such a blending Of rugged ma
ture in the sea, the rocks and cliffs and
trees and shrubs with the artistic beauty
OF the landscape and the castles with
decorations we had never seen or read
Of ''by tale or history" So exclusive
are those folk, that some of them cut
down The walk below the level Of the
ground, some built stone walls and one
a tunnel; but nearly all were plainly
open to view. The houses were from
200 to 800 yards back from this walk
which was as close to the sea cliff as it
could be made. l caught at Jim perhaps
40 times when he would walk so near
the edge, for fear he would make a mis-
step and be dashed to death, til he final
ly assured me with some earnestness
that he could walk
The lawns on that sea front reminded
me of what the Englishman said to the
American who remarked upon the supe-
riOr beanty Of English to American
lawns: 'All we do to our lawns is to
roll them and NOW them about 500
years" We stopped at restaurant at
the end of this cliff walk quite weary.
The only items on the bill of fare within
the range of our purses were a piece of
bluefsh, Irish potatoes and snaps or
string beans which cost us $125. Jim
teased me much for ordering snaps, It'll
few days later when he fond of travelling
unknown paths in menus selected
hamburg steak and clam chOwder.
After that he took my advice and stuck
. to things he had eaten before we left
home.
From Newport we went to Boston by
rail via Fall River and Taunton. At
the latter place we saw q white man
(Italian) polishing negro's shoes, but
we saw no other evidence OF social equal
ity while up there, not a negro in a
church or hotel. There were very
few negroes-apparently not one to
SO whites, but Irishmen and Italians
! drove the horses and cars and were bar
bers and street laborers. The walters
in the restaurants were nearly all girls,
cleanly dressed and respectable looking.
The food was just such as we eat except
that light bread and Irish potatoes were
on every table at every meal and took
the place of our biscuits and corn bread.
Eating was very cheap, good meal
might be had for from so to Is. cents in
many of the European plan hotels and
restaurants
| thought and still do that | spoke
English clearly, but to about half the
words | said in Boston the person ad-
dressed would slap his hand to his ear
and say, BEG pardOn?' grew weary
of hearing that. could understand
them perfectly.
Boston has also been called the cradle
Of American liberty. 1t deserves the
name. The city abounds in brazen tab
let's and monuments OF Colonial and
Revolutionary history. One can hardly
go a square without seeing monument
or tablet referring to doctor,' general
farmer, merchant, patriot, orator, Jo
seph Warren, who fell at the battle o
Bunker Hill. He was evidently "the
noblest Roman of them ALL" There il
Paul Revere Street, Paul Revere Square
many people with Paul Revere for theil
first two names, the ride he took, pic
lures OF him and of the horse he rode, al
he rode, the old church and the Lantern
hung from it giving him the signal tt
start on his celebrated ride There art
monuments to Ben Franklin and the spo1
of his birth is shown, to George Wash
ington, to John Adams, to John Quincey
Adams, to Quincy (Which they all cal
QUINCY and to many other revolution
ary patriots, while busts, monument
and portraits of Emerson and Holme
and W. W. Storey and Copley and Long
fellow and Whittier and Hawthorne ant
VIM Ellery Charming and Webster ant
many others well known, to literary AM
artistic fame. fill the air of the mind a
every turn and nearly oil erected b,
the city. Coming to later days ther
are great monuments to Lincoln, Sum
ner, Garrison, Wendell Phillips, Majo
Shaw and many local celebrities in tn
chiefly, Preserved the constitution an
Union and established liberty, or som
such phrase. Art and sculpture are libe1
ally patronized there. COpley an
Storey were two of their great ones Pi,
! lures OF everything, theatres glow wit
! the beauty of electrically illuminate
! pictures and scenery. Advertising b
= pictures and signs are every where, II til
place will hold one. Street cars aboun
with them-one amused me- It was
. dead cat followed by this quotation:
\ Ding dong dell, Pussy's in the WELL
. And all the poor milk men are sorry,
|. All except Hood, his milk is still good
! No water in his SO don't worry"
ii
e Only four book stores in Boston al
e they, with all that literary taste ar
culture aud book writing and histor
q have a hard time to get along as l ",
e told in one of the principal ones. IT
d reason: The free public library Wi
if nearly a million volumes is patrOnize
:, and the state furnishes all the scho
books and pencils and tablets, and col
It pels the children to attend school al
t. use them We went fifty miles in t
t, country one day through Lynn, Salel
e Gloucester, etc., and back, on an all d,
r slow trolley ride. Not an unpaint
d farm house on the way, the road maea
?, amized all the way, stone fences. .quarri.
le dairy farms, fine cattle, hay stacks,
re houses that supply towns, large fl
r public libraries all about, away out in
,r country. The trees and shrubberry a
st corn were the most luxuriant we b
,e ever seen. 1 pulled a leaf from an e
ID tree such as ours, and brought it hon
es 1t measures six inches long by three a
u threeiourths inches wide. Innumera]
or stone quarries, right on the rock-bou
" ocean shore, where building and paw
&c stones are made in great abundance q
n loaded by machinery into sail boats Il
90 float them around to the cities.
m passed ship yard where three sh