Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-12-16

comingness, 1t Is quite likely that the small
perky shapes are having their last run.
Already, in fact, street headgear is taking
on a more conventional look. Side-rolled
shapes are shown by the many plume-trim-
med, velvet brim hats and walking shapes
are quite stiff, even though the eoquettish
Understandings still prevail
plicated and elaborate feature in
fine millinery is melange of materials
even for the shape. For example, crown
may be of fur and brim of velvet, faced
with silk beaver.
AS fer fur in general the fierce winters
which have come to American fashion CEN
ters may account for the enormous vogue
the warm animal skin now enjoys. For
not in generations have furs been so wide
~ worn, and even the cheaper dyed and
fantastic skins are often made up delight
fully Russian sable has naturally first
place, though this rich brown pelt is not
allowed all wearers and It. is thought SOM,
Der for evening use. Ernnine, white fox and
lynx are the skins for gala evening USE and
plain, indeed must be the gown which is
not made charming by a set in some one
of these pelts.
All Sorts Shown.
The sets worn both plain and elab-
orately fussy. An odd slashing is used
for some of the lynx boas at the bottom,
and sometimes for a whole sable or mink
set. In muffs OF the latter pelts the lit
tie animals are employed in a way to leave
each one distinct, the tiny bodies dangling
entirely loose at the bottom of the big
pillow. Enormous are the lynx and fox
muffs which seem to prevail over other
pelts, and arms with elbow sleeves have
learned the trick of cuddling deep into
their soft depths. Yet, all things said and
done, the average fine nuff is purely for
ornament, and just frequently she
carries it with two hands the smart woman
bears it dangling from one.
The ACCOMMODATING drawings display some
reigning styles in the fields discussed.
An empire gown. for very smart even
ing or reception wear is OF pale mauve
cloth, embroidered all over with empire
wreaths and bordered with sable. The bo-
lero and lower bodice are of violet panne,
also embroidered. An odd and becoming
effect is made by perfectly plain yoke
of the mauve cloth, finished by white
silk cravat. The hat is of violet panne
with a sable crown and shaded violet feath-
ers.
Another empire effect is shown in the
gown near this, the model, though much
graver than the first being also for smart
ones. Chiffon cloth in taupe Zone of the
new shades of gray is the material of this,
tiny vest of fine white lace showing
upon the bodice. Where the fronts of this
cross and al the edge of the sleeves there
is a facing of a frail silver braid, with
edge showing The hat is of gray tulle
with a bias edge of dull silver tissue and
gray and black feathers. The muff, which
is in one of the most treasured of the
smart shapes, is of lynx.
Pretty Models
In the large drawings are shown two
empire coats in desirable cuts, a blue wool
frock and two very charming visiting
dresses.
The choicer of these is of pale brown
cloth, embroidered, braided and applqued
with velvet In the same and deeper shades
The little cape dress is of pale olive
faille-suave, that uncrushable soft faille
which now reigns. The blouse under the
cape is of white guipure showing incrusta-
tons of the olive failie and delicate &C
cent of violet.
The elderly woman ought truly to feel in
her element this season, for all of her
soft colors are in vogue Exquisite are
the violet and gray shades which appear
in the splendid silks, whose brooched and
tinseied weayes seem to fit them especially
for elderly use. Even the wearer of deep
black has her coquetries, for scarfs of black
spangled net, bright Jet and dashing eff
fects in black and white are allowed wear
ers Of black. Butt of course. these delight
full frtpperies are never for the first stage.
They come under that old-fasfdoned and
sweetly sad heading, second mourning"
MARY DEAN.