The San Francisco call., 1905-01-29

back. They were used to trim the far
ing cuffs and similar bands were used
upon the hips to make very snowy
panels.
Later in the season all Of these bands
will be ripped off and laid away and in
place of them the gown will be
strapped with bands of white satin.
Thus a new effect wit. be produced.
And, again, the owner can vary the
whole by lining the gown with vivid
green and trimming it with green
suede.
There come such beautiful trimmings
!, these days that one must pause before
played, whether one can buy or not.
Truth to tell they rank high in the
artistic world, these trimmings, and
they actually make gown stylish, no
matter how poor its materials.
Sets of trimmings come on cards for
the decoration of a dress. And one
can buy Oriental goods by the yard.
A square yard of brilliant trimming,
all designed in strips, can be cut apart
and used to decorate dress.
That these trimmings are expensive
there is no doubt at alE But, on the
other hand, they are Immensely serv-
iceable. They cam be worn half a sea-
son and then ripped or and laid away
Meanwhile another set OF trimmings
canobe added inSsuehs a manner as to
completely changessai gown and afford
that novelty which; makes dress SO
very attractive. *
One gets exceedingly Stired Of the
same styles every day. and one wearies
of the same colors and the same trim
mings. To have something new is one
of the most desirable things in the
world.
A Gown in Purple and Green.
A woman whos is known for her
handsome accessories is planning her
luncheon and card party dresses with
a special view to these. She is buying
the handsome mock gems and is wear
ing them in chains and watches, pins
and bracelets, and is fitting her color
scheme to match them.
The Duchess of Manchester gave a
very nice exhibition Of good taste the
other day when going among her old
friends. She dressed beautifully, yet
modestly, and her dress was a study.
1t was made Of purplish cloth. fine as
voile, and 1t was trimmed with narrow
bands Of green suede stitched to the
shoulders. the upper arms and the
cuffs. In addition to this trimming
there were bands of green taffeta bor-
dered with pipings of white, and the
girdle was combination Of greer and
purple and white in Oriental fashion.
Az n.
leaves with amethysts in the center. In
her hair-for it was a ladies' dinner
party-she wore an aigrette Of purple
fastened with knot of green velvet.
One must be little careful now In
0cutting out ones sleeves. for the styles
>are changing, and sleeves that are
Fashionable now may be ruined for
>wear later on. The newest London
>sleeves are cut In coat sleeve shape, but
>with the top immensely large. From
,the shoulder to the wrist the sleeve
3tapers gradually until 1t is very tight
Sindeed at the hand. while at the should
er 1t Is very large indeed. This is called
the London sleeve. and 1t is one of the
smartest tailored sleeves OF the year.
But the woman of style does not
want tailored sleeve save on her street
gowns. She prefers something prettier,
something more delicate and something
more feminine. She wants trimmed
sleeve. And she would like something
with cuff and droop.
The dropping. sagging sleeve holds its
own pretty well. The new shirt waists
show voluminous folds Of sleeves, with
something of a droop near the elbow,
either just above or just below There
is not the long bagging, sagging droop,
which was once so very fashionable.
but there is a fullness which will not
down and out in spite of many efforts
to put 1t out of business.
The bell cuff for card parties is pret-
ty. and it shows the hand and gives
one a chance to wear bracelets. This
cuff is shaped precisely like a bell. 1t
flares full around the knuckles and is
stiffened and trimmed. 1t is tight at
the top and sets very snug to the wrist. :.
1t is typical bell cuff
Sleeves are again made very long,
and this is awkward for card playing.
but they can be showed up a. little with
out injury to their outline. Indeed, there
is very little outline to the new sleeve.
and with the Duffs, the bags and the
shirrings one must learn to imagine
the natural size and shape. -
A study of the new waists reveals the,
fact that they are heavier than the
waists of last season and that a greater
variety of materials is used in their
make. If you want to prove this t6 1.
your own satisfaction examine the
lovely brocades, THE handsomely fin- !.
ished taffetas of heavy weights the
lovely velvets Of all weights and the
novelty silks, seeded and striped and