Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1905-07-21

fish, though we had been talking in
French-a trick which most foreigners
have when they recognize the American.
81 and my two daughters go tomorrow
by extra post; 1 should be glad to offer
the fourth seat to monsieur if"
l was about to express my gratitude
when mine host explained that the extra
post was just as much under government
control as the diligence and 1.-THE law did
not allow bicycles"
Then" l exclaimed in desperation, "I
Will hire private conveyance"
The landlord smiled impossible" he
said That would require a relay of
horses, and relays are a government mo-
nopoly." As we three stared in silence
for moment at each other there in the
damp little courtyard, suddenly an idea
smote me.
Landlord" I said "have you any meal
bags?'
Meal bags, Monsieur"
Yes; four large, strong meal bags
Send for them quickly" 1 crossed to my
bicycle unstrapped the knapsack from the
handle bars took off the tool bag and
handle bars, and, crouching down on the
pavement, by the light of a lantern, re-
moved the saddle, chain, and wheels. In
few moments the vehicle which had
borne me stoutly over a thousand miles of
rough italian roads had resolved itself
into Its several parts. Then an elderly
peasant woman appeared with an armful
of dusty burlap bags. The front wheel
was popped into one, the rear one into an
other the frame into the third. the handle
bars, chain, pedals, saddle, and sprocket
into the fourth. The woman, quick to I'M
derstand, was rapidly plying a large
needle, and when 1 looked up from the
completed work with flushed face and
grimy hands, l heard a ripple of laughter
and there stood the bearded Dutch gentle
man with his two daughters looking down
on me from little wooden balcony above.
We four had a merry supper together.
was again in high spirits, and we prom
ised to sup together on the following night
on the other side of the pass.
The next morning 1 was called at half
past five. 1t was dark, cold, and rainy.
The brick floor of my bedroom was not
comforting. 1 dressed rapidly and warmly,
and soon presented myself at the window
of the diligence office.
"Give me a ticket for n coupe seat in
the diligence" 1 demanded, with some
hauteur, of my acquaintance of the pre-
vious night. He thrust his head out of the
little window. glared first at me- then at
my luggage deposited at my side by the
hotel porter. 1t consisted of one knapsack
and four meal bags, securely sewn up.
For a moment there was a dramatic
pause. Then he dropped the window.
made out the ticket, and gave my luggage
to the guard to be stored on top of the
coach.
After a cheerful breakfast 1 took my
place on the front seat of the great medi-
eval coach. and at seven o'clock the six
horses started under a volley of whip
crackings, and the trip across the Simplon
to Switzerland was commenced And
what day of adventures! After climbing
the rain-soaked roads for several hours
we reached the snow line and changed
from the coach to little wooden sledges,
each drawn by one -harnessed horse.
and carrying two passengers / sat with
a peasant man, and for five hours we
toiled over the deep snow. Sometimes the
horse would fall, and we would founder
out to help him up and warm our stiff
limbs. Once we upset, and once, when the
right trace broke, the rear part of the
runners overhung a precipice. Several
times, where the snow had avalanched
across the road, workmen had dug tunnels
and through these treacherous holes we
had to go. At the summit was the hos
pice. where kindly-faced old priest gave
us warm things to drink. Clouds and
snow fiurries buffeted us; the great noun
tain peaks rose dimly discerned on all
sides; white drifts of clouds lay below u.s.
shutting out the valleys. and the wind
whirled around the corners where the
narrow road turned. striking us from I'M
expected quarters. a vast silence encom-
passed us, broken only by the creak of the
sledge and the bell OF the horse. At last
about three o'clock in the afternoon, we
climbed half frozen. from the wretched
sledge into the shelter and comparative
comfort of the diligence awaiting us at
the level where the snow ceased For two
or three hours more we whirled down the
zigzag road toward the green valleys of
Switzerland, the storm passed, and at sun
set, with a resounding clatter of hoofs.
our diligence rolled into the little cobble-
stone square of Brieg. and the doorway of
the dear little Hotel de Ia Post invited us
in to warmth and good cheer.
I clambored, with infinite WEAKNESS but
with infinite peace of mind, down from
my red-cushioned seat in the coupe NY
meal bags were being taken down from
the top; the horses, unhitched from the
coach, were led to their stable; and across
the dusk-veled square, toward the stone
watering trough, came the cows with their
jangling bells.
The Dutch gentleman and his daughters
appeared at an upper window.
Welcome to Switzerland Monsieur!" he
exclaimed. jovially. 1.-THE supper is or
dered. and will be ready IN half an hour!
What an emotional day it has been!
Never again in April will attempt the
Simplon! Monsieur we congratulate you
on bringing the first bicycle across the
Pass"
AS entered the house looked back at
the dim form of the diligence, standing
silent and deserted in the square, which
had carried me safely down from the
carried the pilgrims on his back. st.
Christopher!
The Eighth avenue car had halted!
Christopher street. blinked, rose hastily
from my seat, got off, and, having no
transfer, walked down to the ferry.-[Wil-
liam Frederick Dix in The Outlook