Evening star., 1905-10-22

made a smart walking suit. the long redin-
cote coat with its full skirts, fitting smooth
and perfectly across the shoulders and at
the waist. small rolled collar of velvet a
shade darker and fold of the same velvet
at the wrist took trife from the severity
OF the style. Five large wrought silver
buttons fastened the coat In an extremely
satisfactory fashion. The tricorne hat worn
with this costume was of London smoke
felt. banded with velvet and trimmed at the
back with shaded gray plumes- The skirt
was a many-gored umbrella model, just es-
Gaping the ground all round.
A delightful dahlia broadcloth princess
frock has an old-fashioned trimming on the
skirt, consisting of three rows of satin
shade lighter than the cloth, arranged in
knife plaitings caught tightly about an inch
from the bottom. These plaitings were
headed with stitched bands of velvet The
bodice was adorned with the same plaitings.
arranged In zouave about an empiecement
of lace trimmed with tiny velvet bows. At
the bust this vest finished with crossed ends
o, velvet, fastened with rosettes of silk.
Hand embroideries are used galone on
semi-tailored gowns, done on satin. silk
and gold gauze. which Is the newest ma
terial for this beautiful work
Exquisite blendings of narrow silk braid
trim many of the dressy little bolero Jackets
and frock bodices. One charming afternoon
gown of deep wine red chiffon velvet has its
skirt disposed in tiny tucks over the hips.
The foot trimming is an odd combination of
narrow colored braids-deep red. pale yell
low. light blue and black-inserted at wide
intervals around the jupe in cone-shaped
forms. The bodice boasts, as do most OF the
smart waists. a yoke of some thin white
material. In this instance flet net was
used, with box plait of braid-trimmed
black satin running down the front. A tiny
turnover collar of satin run with lines of the
short sleeves had turned-back cuffs of braid
trimmed satin.
All the calling gowns of the season have
slight dips in the back that are very
graceful and attractive. Cloth evening
wraps are newer and more up to date than
silk ones. and the empire style is first IA
vorite. Paquin is showing a fascinating
model in the faintest shade of gray broad
cloth. The skirt is full and plated from
the short bodice. which has incroyable revers
and belt of white satin, eiaborately en-
broidered in black and white silks touched
here and there with gold braid. The effect
Is simple and elegant. and the wrap is not
too important for a number OF day occa-
sions.
Before closing this letter I must tell you
about a stunning hat well-known milliner
fitted to my head yesterday. You know
that lot of the smartest chapeaux are
made of silk and satin braid but this con-
fection was a triumph of what may be ac-
compiished by covering French sailor per-
fectly plain with baby blue moire silk
Around the crown the artist had ordered
arranged a thick ruche of almost yellow
lace, in the center of which were placed in a
stiff row tiny pink roses as close together as
possible AT one side was the Frenchiest
little stiff bow of olive green inch wide vel
vet ribbon. The hat in the back was raised
on a high bandeau. over which fell a show
er of pale blue ostrich plumes. 1t was the
prettiest light hat have seen this year.
CATHERINE TALBOT