The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-06-29

are exquisite, recalling the old days of brocades and powdered hair. For gowns of ceremony no lovelier fabric can be imagined.
 A beautiful gown in peach-eolored silk with large, shadowy bouquets of roses scattered over the surface, was made with a skirred once below the waist line on very thick cord. At the knee deep founce began. this too be- | ing shirred on a heavy cord, and finished with a narrow rufie. The gown had a bolero jacket, fitted tight \ ly, and fastening above the very high girdle with two gilt buttons. The | boIero was shirred on a cord all around, the fulness being fsttened and shaped | to the figure It was laid in plaits on the shoulders to guard against bunch ! mess. The jacket was heart shaped at ! the neck, over guimpe of exquisitely | fine muslin, tucked and inlaid with small lace medallions. A tucked and lace trimmed collar fell over the shoul- ders of the bolero. The elbow sleeves
 ended with fall of lace.
 Palest Iiauve radium silk made a, gown of severe simplicity and elegant lines. The skirt was ,ons. = the widest ! yet seen, and was laid in very full box I plaits, small, at the waist, and laring ' into very wide plaits at the. foot of the long skirt There was no trimming, save a corded puff about two inches wide.. which trimmed the edge of the ] skirt. The waist was draped in simple, yet indescribable manner above a, high pointed girdle, and opened over a guimpe composed of many rows of lreal valenciennes. The uper part Of the waist was shirred on double cords, giving the effect of a puff. The draped
 sleeves Extended to the elbow, where a puffed cuff and a ruffie of lace com pleted them. with the gown were worn some rare old samethysts set in silver. -.t 4%{ # 's
 Shirrlng on heavy cords is a favorite means of trimming simple gowns, and even when used on handsomest costumes, is very effective. A pretty house gown of blue and white foulard- white ground and blue hydrangeas-. had a full skirt, shirred below the knees in two two groups of heavy sbir- ring with a puff between. The waist was furnished with shirred bretelles,
 and had very high bodice girdle, also shirred. The guimpe was of handler lchief linen, embroidered heavily with I dragon fliesa most artistic affair.
 There were deep pointed cuffs of the embroidered linen, covering the deep
 cuffs of the silk sleeve.
 The dress without a guilnpe or a
 chemisette is an exception this season.
 The fashion Is greatly to be encouraged ) not only for daintiness and almost uni-
 versal becomingness, but also for its coolness. The fact that no marked
 down sales of these pretty accessories
 have been noted is a certain indication
 of their confined vogue. We expect to
 see the transparent yoke or ehemisette
 far into the fall, perhaps longer.
 From London comes word that high
 necked opsra costumes are gaining in favor at Covent Garden. It has been
 the rule for every woman to appear in
 decollete, and in fact in Continental
 houses no woman would be admitted in
 a high gown. Says the London cores
 pondent:
 What strikes the onloker with great
 force is the encouragement given to
 high neck evening bodice. At "a first
 night, a week or two ago, many such
 bodices might have been counted in the
 stalls One was of cream chiffon veil
 ing silk to match, and was arranged . with frills of accordion plaited chiffon
 edged with tiny ruches. The bodice
 was cut very low, but was brought
 high to the neck by a separate cape of
 transparent lace, headed by little bands
 of pale blue crepe de chine united by
 thorn stitching. Three more bands
 joined the cape to some lace insertion
 at the end, and the band of insertion
 was, in turn, joined to a frill of lace
 by means of thorn stitching and crepe de chine rs .s5
 "A second bodice was of white net
 over silk, this also being cut very low. 1 It was brought high to the neck
 through the medium of clear white net, inlet with fine lace medallions and
 trimmed with wee bows of pale pink
 velvet, with tiny embroidered button
 in the cenrte of each. <.
 'The early five. o'clock operas have,
 no doubt, done much to encourage the
 adoption of high neck evening blouses,
 for which occasions they are supremely , suitable" st
 , This may be laid to the becomingness , of the transparent yoke, no doubt, and we shall probably see the same fashion l when our own opera season comes
 around again.
 Shall we also see the artificial flow ' CTS which are so greatly admired for dress and coiffure garnitures abroad? We read: t4A "Flowers--roses in. particular-are affected as clusters, wreaths, and semi wreaths, a novel ornament being a large ring of shaded pink roses laid flat upon the crown of the head, the : coiffure also being quite flat without a suggestion of atopknot. while in front } of the wreath the hair is pushed well forward. This was the coiffure and s decoration worn by the occupant of a stall at the opera recently, and hear , by were many heads also dressed with
 roses. On one was a semi-wreath of ! pink and white gIanksia roses, resting l against a high coiffure, while another ] was dressed with a cluster of small f crimson roses, posed near the centre |