The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-23

For country wear AZ a relief from the
soft hat and the cap there. are ne oloth
hau which one Arm makes m oonalderaple
numbers. The Wearor can select any klnd
Of cloth he wants and the hatmakcr turns
out shape like that Of the ordinary lyro-
lean hat,
They are especially useful for spring and
autumn wear. And they are never likely
70 get common, since few men would take
the trouble 10 20 to their talorh Tor tho cioth
and then 10 q hatmRker 10 have such
specimen Of headgear.
There has been this year q marked ten
dency among well dressed men 70 favor
solid oolors Tor outing shirts. sometimes
these materials are stamped with design
IN the hame color. but as rule they are
plain.
There e little need Of any kind Of design
on shirts where the materia, Y 70 closely
tucked and pleated as the fashion demands
II shall be this summer There are three
more box pleats on each side Of the buttons
or six small ones. Then there are side or
French pleats. Only the heavy materials
which Q all but impossible 10 pleat are
plain
All Of the cuffs are double and unstarched.
White pleated bosoms are also worn with
full dress In the evening. They are TN
starohed, as ell pleated bosoms should be,
and made Of plain linen or madras with
raised striDes and small hgures. .
shirt persistently last winter at the opera,
but succeeded In making few converts 70
the unconventional fashion. But this II
to be the dress shirt Of the summer season
and may gain such popularity at Newport
and Lenox as 10 carry II over 10 next winter
here.
These shirts are sometimes made With
buttons, but more frequently there are
places for pearl studs. Turquoise and
amethyst studs are also. very pretty In
these shirts in the freedom OF summer
time especially when the same stones are
used In the white waibtcoat and the Gun
buttons.
For summer wear with q dinner coat.
there are pale gray and dark cream coloTed
waistooats. But there are many well
dressed men who think dinner coat should
be worn only with a black waistcoat.
The color In the handkerchief II rapidly
diminishing in quantity. The most care
full men have limited II already 10 the mono
gram embroi deTed In the corner Of tho
white handkerchief.
But some are still fond enough Of color
10 cling 10 the striped han dkerchiefs which
have a band Of color running about the
border OF q stripe OF color crossing the
handkerchief at intervals. The solid blocks
Of color that marked handkerchiefs several
years ago are Just now In disfavor, and
the haberdasheTs are importing those with
a much smaller area Of color.
In ties the preference still remains for
solid colos, with a stripe or pattern If there
Ia TO be ornamentaion in the same color.
The bow tie and the four In hand have no
rivals.
The assets are dressy with a frock coat,
but they are not eeen often in comparison
with the other two styles Of wearing a tie.
Green in the various shades is still the
most popular color, although green ties are
so common It IL difficult 70 tell whether one
cost 50 cents or 81.
That IL one great advantage in wearing
ties Of solid color. They no not show
their cost, whereas cheap ties nearly always
proclaim their humble origin by their
patterns.
The English cricket ties, imported chiefly
by one firm, come in bewildering combina-
lions OF color, such contrasts as neighbor-
ing stripes OF magenta and orange being
by no means unusual. They are the
smartest kind Of ties, however for the man
who does not want to cont'nt himsslf with
solid color.
Purple and gray ties have lost their popu-
brown which held itS own until a short
time ago. Green, which has been worn
longer than either OF them, has won out.
There are novelties this year In the shoes
Of the well dressed man which are 40 striking
that he may not after all take TO them.
Most Of them are a result Of the popularity
Of the patent leather pump, which was
wnested from it, place as a dress shoe for
evening wear and made to serve all sorts
Of purposes.
Last summer men wore their pumps to
the Casino at Newport in the mornings,
and at Southampton there were always
men at the beach wearing these shoes.
Now the shoemakers have turned them
out in all kinds OF leather.
They are made in ordinary calf skin 90
be blaokened, in russell leather and even
in brown and white kid for yachting. There
was never time Of such popularity for
the pump.
II may be a mark Of rebellion against
this prevailing fashion that has led some
u the shoemakers 10 turn out very thin
patent leather low quarters for dress wear,
They are Of papeTlike thinness and intended
10 be worn on those formal occasions for
which the pump was formerly thought tho
only suitable footgoar.
For daytime dress the high patent leather
buttoned shoes, polished with the liquid
varnish. are the smartest footRear The
low quarter oalfskin and tan leather shoes
are certain 10 enjoy again this summer
The popularity that has made them the
regular summer footwear in this country,
The patent feathers with light leather
and cloth tops have never gained here the
vogue they enjoy abroad in spite Of the
various efforts to introduce them. White
spats are a summer style likely 10 be seen
rarely in New York, although they are
regular feature Of mems dress at Newport
and the other resorts Of fashion,
In 90 lars there Ia no radical change.
They are not worn oonspicuously high and
are still the standing turnover in design.
They have a broad seam and are bought by
men who understand how 10 wear them
nan a size larger than they usually wear
For dress the high standing collar with a
Doke and the collar with the turnover points
ire still the best style.