The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-02-18

with pearls, and there were buckles of gold and diamonds that had danced the minuet with Napoleon. The gold heels, inches high, were modelled much after her own waist line and were meant for stepping slow dances or rid ing in gold coaches, but menace to life in a tWo-step.
 The tight-fitting pointed bodice atten- uated the waist line until the group of admirers accustomed to the Venus pro- portions of the outdoor girl searched each others eyes for a solution.
 On the bodice was a stomacher of pearls and gold embroidery. The sleev- es had lace frills and she wore long lace mitts of dull white, and filny and graceful with age.
 The New York girl did not wish to look theatrical. so her coiffure was a modification of the huge white court wig. It was just her own hair f1uffed up from her forehead and puffed over back of head, with a couple of curls resting on the throat at the left, and all as white as the draperies and sparyi ing with diamond dust and diamonds, and pale Mernet rose at the left of the puffs.
 Around her neck was. a rope of peal, caught together with links of hand spun gold, and on the rope a tiny vinai- grette made from seventeenth cen tury Etruscan gold earring.
 From a fine Venetian gold chair, very threadlike and rich yellow. hung the Wateau fan, a tiny affair painted with "a French garden scene with courtly rustic beauties and cavaliers doing eighteenth century dances. Her snuff box, of silver and diamonds, she carried with her roses and her Honiton point handkerchief.
 Although she had studied out her costume most carefully 1t was really her patches that gave her most amuse- ment. She carries hundreds of them cut for use in small silver patch box of the time of Charles I. There are moons and stars, comets and crosses. com plete outfit for a zodiacal system.
 Naturally, she will not wear them with the reckless prodigality of the former court beauty. Two or three will content her to express some subtley of emotion, instead of a dozen, which would be really like taking the public into her confidence.
 The already fashionable tiny powder mirrors will be used for the shifting of mouches in the carriage, dressing room or even at the opera or dance, for ur- less the patch is kept up to date of what significance is it? If you are un- happy and a tiny patch on the tip of ] the chin says that you are joyous the l code wholly loses its value as a danger signal to flirtattous fiance
 l And so, from now on, every fashion
 able girl will include a mirror and patch box in her assortment of jeweled chain trinkets.
 The marquise fad affords opportunity for both study and expenditure. Tn the fans there is simply no limit to price, | size and variety of make. From the | moderately small Empire fans they de-
 crease in size, to a mere chatelaine | ornament, and are often all silver or gold filgree work, jewel set.
 l From $1,000 to 50 cents may be
 paid for a modern fan; from $1,000 up for a painted fan, depending upon
 whether it is done by Louis Leloir or Greuze.
 With this marquise craze will come a
 thorough searching of antique shops for old necklaces, earrings for fans
 and snuff boxes, for mouche miroirs
 and vinaigrettes and, above all, for
 strips of old brocade. For the colors of
 the century-old silk tapestries are not | to be inflated by modern dyes and the
 old jeweled pieces and old laees look
 far better on the fabrics woven ir ! their own times.
 Being a very practical young woman when she is not a faddist, it is to be
 presumed that the narquise gown will
 be in vogue with the New York girl l solely for receptions, operas, musicales | etc., and not good form for dinners ol
 dances, where pleasure must depend or normal conditions. What could the athletic, girl dance in an 1S-inch corset
 save the minuet? And that, of course
 will have a vogue, but it will moi
 crowd out two-steps, Spanish Waltzes
 and the cheerful, energetic old lancers | csi1y1 F 4t4Eya.t y19