davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912, 1905-07-03
SHEET
AS AT
JUNE 80, 1908

Liabilities.
Capital and Surplus ........S S51, 707 80
Due to Banks and Bankers. 1921. 20
Deposits ................. 2,SSS, 391. "A
Notes and Bills Redis-
counted ...............-. 100000. 90
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13
(sdE67 2'&&2IMa@5l B5@&Qd

over blue chiffon, but does not open In the
front. showing panel eight inches wide at
the top and twenty inches wide at the bot
tom OF white silk net with lengthwise inser-
lions of Valenciennes lace over the blue
chiffon. At the top the net is laid in deep
tucks. so that the lace is practically all that
shows. The tucks taper out. however, and
make the panel much wider at the bottom.
the pink skirt bordered on each edge with
are two inches wide at the top by four
pink roses are embroidered at the bottom
and above these are smaller flowers, those
at the top being rosebuds. At the bottom
of the lace and net panel are two crossing
insertions of the lace, the upper an inch
and half and the lower two inches broad,
and to the lower one is attached a six-inch
ruff1e of the Nalenciennes.
The skirt which touches all around. Is
gathered just once at the top and hangs
in full folds. and the lower two-thrds of
the skirt is formed of five organdie hounces,
the top seven inches narrower than
the bottom one. and each succeeding ruftie
of the five being proportionately narrower
than the one beneath it These ruffies had
deep scallops embroidered in buttonhole
stitch and each scallop has one of the SIM
pie, open work medallions matching those
on the bodice ruffies. The top ruffie is
headed by a fiat puff matching that on
the top of the corsage. The foundation slip
Is deeper shade of chiffon taffeta.
Mrs Lionel Guest (Mrs. Flora Rigelow
Dodge, when in town few days since,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13

they vary In width and their flowers in size.
From the Dutch neck the net is shirred and
raGiateS out from 1t over the shoulders and
down the front and back, these tiny gath
cred folds being caught invisibly to the
blue chiffon underslip. The bodice gathers
are drawn in under shaped, pointed cir
die OF the blue crepe having tiny nosegays
OF roses, larger nosegays appearing In the
front and back and loose buds at the sides
The edges of the girdle are embroidered IN
tiny green vines. 1t hooks invisibly at one
side. The sleeves are not large, and are
gathered in tiny folds that around the
arm Just above the elbow there is a three
inch turned-back cum, embroidered with
loose rosebudS and leaves, and from under
this fail two rutiies. the inner OF white Va
lenciennes lace and the upper of pink net
lined with the blue chiffon. These flounceS
are eight inches long.
Crossing over the tops of the arms and
running in under the band outlining the IT.
tie low square of the Dutch neck at the
front are blue crepe bands an inch and a
half wide slightly stiffened, and embroid-
cred in rosebuds. These bands are straight
and are not caught to the gown save where
they end under the yoke, the tops of the
sleeves, and in the center back where they
slant down trife and are cut to form a
small V These bands are effective. quite
odd. and are designed, and success ully. TO
broaden shoulders bit too narrow to be In
proportion.
The skirt is of accordion plated pink net
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13

cut top of Valenciennes lace. and this Is
really removable guimpe. The bodice
Itself has its top overlapping the lace. cut
fiat and smooth. and this Is finished by a
Nat puff inch and a half wide of the
organdie, gathered twice at each edge, so
that the putting has what our grandmothers
termed a scratched appearance. These
pU1iinss curl down IL both the center back
and front, and, growing smaller as they
roll turn back on themselves in scroll ef-
feet at the ends, leaving in the center be-
tween them space for the loosely applied
openwork medallions of pale pink embroid
cred in small scallops at the lower edges.
The back is similar to the front \ ruffie
formed of these medallons, similarly en-
broidered but gathered into a scant ruffle
five inches deep, extends around under the
lower edge of the puff and from under this
droops still another ruffie exactly like the
first. and attached to a wide foundation
fiounCc of the pink organde that the medal
lions show 10 a depth of three inches. This
second rutfle, however, rounds up iii the
center each side of the fiat medalions be-
tween the puff's curved ends. The founda-
tion fiounCe of pink organdie. to which the
mcddilioned ruffleS are attached, IS finished
by a twO-inCh ruffle of NalencienneS lace
matching the guimpe. This lace-bordered
founce extends straight across the back,
but in the front it is shortened In the cen
ter, showing little square at the top of the
bodice front revealing the fact that the
body OF the bodice is of the organdie Shirred
across or. rather, around the figure, aud
that it closes in the front under two meet
ing ruched edges 1t is cut in deep. sharp
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13

their tops of shirred blue crepe and their
lower halves OF shaded mauve orchids en-
broidered on pale blue crepe. From under
the edges of the shawl sections and in both
the back and the front. near the top. start
fve-inch strips of mauve liberty satin rib
bon. These are laid in plaits at the top.
and come together at point two inches be-
low the waist line, where they are loosely
knotted together, and then spread out down
the gown some eighteen inches further.
The slender, pointed space in the center
back outlined by ribbon strips Is filed in
with the mauve orchid embroidery.
A six-inch band Of this embroidery is used
about the bottom Of the gown and forms
deep points twenty inches from each other.
the lower points coming within two inches
of the bottom of the robe.
Mrs Hollis HunnewelI. who was in town
to see her mother, Mrs. Frederick Nelson,
off for Europe, wore a short-skirted pale
yellow linen costume, the top an Elton coat.
The skirt was laid in graduated box plalts
little distance apart, and these were
stitched in from the belt line to below the
knees. There was no trimming on this
skirt. which tight around the hips.
A white underblouse was worn, but little
of it was seen, as the Elton coat concealed
most of 1t. This coat was fitted loosely to
the figure in the back and had something of
q surplice effect in front. as the side fronts
were plated in at the center to a belt at
tached to the coat all the way around. The
front of~the coat also opened in surplce ef-
feet, widening from the bottom, where it
met. to the top. This coat was braided In
fine cord braid or embroldered-the distance
being too great to determine which-in yell
low matching the linen. There was set
geometrical design in the back near the top
and smaller wider one at the bottom. 1t
was also braided around the front, and the
rather wide coat sleeves that ended above
the wrists We're also braided.
Mrs. Hunnewell wore a large fiat black
hat draped with black lace veil.
MARIE WELDON.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13
BEGIN TO GET READY
HAVE YOUR SMALL WARES ON
HAND FOR SEWING.

What are you all doing?" said an as
tonished neighbor as she entered the north
chamber and found the Brainerd girls and
their mother seated around the long, mar
row sewing table. which was covered with
a litter of articles, plainly dumped from
piece bags and sewing machine drawers.
"Oh, it was such a nice, cool morning,
we thought we would get ready for the
dressmaker's next visit" replied Mrs
Brainerd, making room for her caller on
the sofa by the window.
why l thought your summer sewing
was all done in June?
so it was" replied Mrs. Brainerd Now
we are getting ready for fall work.
in Augusta
an August" was the laughing reply.
Don't you know that is the sale month of
the year for home dressmakers? The time
par excellence for picking up notions lin
ings scraps of embroidery lace. buttons,
trimmings of all sorts? You see, we pay
Miss Green two and a half day-and she is
worth it-but plan to have everything
ready when she comes, so that we all can
do our share toward helping her. There IS
time then to run out for hooks and eyes,
bit of featherbone. spool of silk. etc.
So we are sorting over our findings and
making list of what we need in the way
Of notions. Then We will take cool morn
ings to shop. and before she comes l VIII
lay in plenty of needles and have the scs-
sors sharpened.
"Of course, some notions cannot be pur-
chased unit. the fall fabrics come in, yet
there are certain staples which are worth
hunting at the August sales. Nettie has de-
cided on white evening gown. so we are
watching for a bargain in white taffetas
for the lining, which will be needed whether
the gown Is of net or chiffon lace. Fiji
teen yards of white silk Is what We want.
| shall have a navy blue broadcloth, but
for lining that l will one of the new
near-silks, which bear hard usage better
than cheap lining silks. and put dust ruff
he Of silk the bottom. And we will save
on the sales of such notions as thread.
binding ribbon collar and girdle forms,
etc"
All Ready to Hand.
Here are some of the things which the
Rrainerd dressmaker will find at hand
when she arrives on the scene:
Blasting cotton In black and white, on
large spools which do not hide behind rolls
OF cloth; hooks and eyes of various sizes,
both black and white, and round eyelets
of brass buttonhole stitched In silk to
match the gown to be made; binding rib
bons: fat silk betting TO finish the tops
OF skirts: featherbone by the box; collar
and gfrdle forms already fitted to the neck
and waist; black and white cotton tape;
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13

black and white elastic: ribbon threaders
with a hooked end for carrying flppotl
through beading, big improvement over
the old fashioned bodkin; tailors canvas
for interlining jacket collars. cuffs, PEI $,
IapeIs, etc; collar canvas of lsnaef
weight: crinoline; crochet SILK IN piacKs,
white and colors of gown, to be MADE ior
fagoting, French knots ETC.; skirt praldS
or velveteen bindings and pins galore
Many dressmakers prefer to Mt potn COZ
lars and girdles, building them from fealh-
erbone and some transparent material, but
if this preference is not expressed the shop-
per is entirely safe in buying a girdle form
in the shape she approves. made from Grim
oline and eatherboning. The collar forms
are made of chiffon, stretched over a foun-
Gation of featherbone, which Is rlppoh
bound.
II makes a formidable list to be pur-
chased at once, but 1t is true economy, LOT
every minute dressmaker waits for d
forgotten item on the notion Lst nei 3 oliiio
is being actually wasted and her patience
worn to a fraZze.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13
Child Immigration to Canada.

From the London Post.
a meeting was held yesterday afternoon
in the board room of the Metropolitan
asylums board, called by the Fulham board
of guardians, to give guardians in the
metropolis an opportunity of hearing Mr. j.
Bogue Smart, the Dominion of Canada In
spector of British children emigrated to
Canada. The Rev. p S. G. Propert in
opening the proceedings. said Mr.. Smart
had not come here to use his great influ-
ence in promoting child emigration; he
merely desired to seek information and to
report to his government the nature of
the child life which was emigrated, and that
meeting was the first which gave an oppor-
tunity to them in a corporate capacity TO
meet the official interested In the care of
their children emigrated to Canada. He
offered a hearty welcome to Mr. Smart
(hear, hear)-and expressed the hope that
the meeting might lead to a higher under
standing Of the difficult problem of child
life which they all had to solve. clear.
hear)
Mr.. Smart said that of the 55.913 British
emigrants in 1904 2204 were children Can
ada had plenty of room, but wanted good
material, healthy, sober, Woodworking men,
women and children. He did not seek to
promote a large immigration TO Canada of
homeless and needy children. but to look
into the system of training in the work
houses and orphanages In England. He de-
sired to come into close touch with the vari-
Gus agencies engaged in the work OF emf
grating children from this side. The advan-
tages of emigrating poor and necessitous
children were considerable. In his opinion
the following conditions were collateral to
the success of the work: type, character and
health; previous training; after oversight
and individual interest. Boys taken directly
from the streets of great cities and sent to
Canada did not turn out so satisfactorily as
those who had received institutional train
ing. From 1899 to 1904 the number of chill
drel sent to Canada through the various
agencies was S415, and Suring the same
period there were 81, 74o bona fde applica-
lions OF employers for children. Often be-
fore the arrival of emigrant children they
we're all allotted to their future homes.
Practically without exception the boys were
indentured with farmers for a term Of
years and the children were well dstrib-
uted through the older provinces of the
dominion. while a large majority were in
Ontario and Quebec. The farmers. a
rule took keen interest in the progress of
the children, who soon adapted themselves
to the ways of the country, and felt that
they were practically at home. The COM
plants as to the treatment of the children
were the cause OF much indignation In Can
ada, for, on the whole, the children wera
treated with due consideration. and cases OF
alleged ill-treatment We're duly investigated
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13
TYPEWRITER GIRLS wAsHDAY.
Saturday Afternoon Observations of
Man From His Rear Room Window.

..Tbara's a typewriter girl living in a
hoordi,o bouse on the next street to mine
sai5 tbe man who lives In boarding house
himself "who has excited my interest ever
since | moved into my present ABODE
s.y- her first on the elevated station in the
morning on her way to work-a handsome
slim. well-mannered girl not much over
twentv-one who dresses with quiet gooo
taste
"a few days after l first noticed her
dropped on her by one of those queer acci-
dents In the big office where she Is EN-
ployed along with fifty or Sixty other sr r,.
high ,,hurch-and she was about the pest
dressed girl in a particularly weli-dresseo
congregation AT this time l had no ioea
where she lived ,,a
of hours with nothing to do and l spent
them in my room. AS looked out across
the wards l saw some one busy at tne
washtubs in the kitchen or the mouse tndl
hacks nm on mine. 1t was slim. griish
figure In a shawl kimono and something
about II caught my eye In minute or TWO
the girl stopped washing and stepped out
into the yard to hang UP two or three pieces
of wash along with some that were ALREADY
ON the lines Then / saw 1t was my pretty
well-gowned typewriter gil.
she kept on washing for haif an nour OF
more. hanging out the things by INSTALL
ments and by the time she had lineiui
the first pieces were dry enough to iron
and she evidently had irons ready. Inc
colored girl helped her rig UP an ironing
board In front Of the door and she went to
work vigorously and deftly. She took IN
the pieces one at a time as they were dry.
Once when nothing was dry enough. she
utilized the time pinnng and fitting skirt
on the colored girl 1t took her about two
hours to complete the job. Then she van
ished. She must have a front room, Tor
never see her at window.
she goes through the same performance
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13
Lace the Rival of Ribbon.

Lace is frequently seen in amiabie con-
junction with chine ribbons, especially those
having a bright satin edge. The two com
bined are responsible for some of the pref
test tea and coffee jackets now being worn
The ribbons Joined by lace insertions form
the coat, and cascades of lace trim neck
and fronts. Lace coats are all to the fore
again and very useful; they are lined with
thin glace silk. A clever woman of small
means but having much visiting to do on
limited wardrobe. has an ecru lace coat
and two three cheap glace slips to wear
under it, making it thus tone with what
ever dress she has on. 1t is an excellent
notion.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13
A Lumber Woman.
From the Pilgrim.

Many people of the north. having never
visited the southern states, have a vague
idea of the young women of that region,
mostly based on literature of ante bellum
days Yet girls south of the Mason and
Dixon line peers of New York. Mime
Gotta. Oregon, or. in fact, any young wom-
an One of the most successful young BUSH
ness women in the country is Miss w. s..
Pratt of Atlanta. Ga, who is said to be the
only woman south of Chicago In the lumber
trade. When the firm for which she was
stenographer went out of business, without
losing day hunting position, she opened
an Office and began operations. Having ac-
quired a knowledge of lumber and its mu-
tations In the market. Miss Pratt was not
long in proving her ability, and today she
g at the head OF firm handling hundred
cars every month. BY business men Miss
Pratt is considered trustworthy. yet con-
sentative, and withal an honor to her home
city.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13

point in the front, and round at the back
Just above the point in the front IS loose
small chou of Shaded pink messa!ine rib
bon.
The deep bertha ruff1es of the bodice
drOop nearly TO the elbows, and from under
them fluff out crisp puffs of white tullc
over the elbows to some little distance be-
low, the lower edges being shirred and fast
ened 20 an invisible elastic, which is placed
just below the elbow, causing deep puffs Of
The tulle 10 fall over the long gloves
new gown just arrived from Paris for
a wealthy westerner was designed by her
self and is probably the only one Of its kind,
as ii is compa ratively simple. and therefore
less likely to appeal to the Partisan mCdiste
as a good model.
1t is pale pink silk net over palest blue
chiffon. and is trimmed with bands of blue
silk crepe embroidered in shaded pink roses
with pale green foliage.
The neck is cut in Dutch fashion, and Is
outlined with inch-wide band of the
crepe with tiny rOScbuds embroidered or II;
the oddly of the embroidered bands is that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13

regularly every Saturday between l and 3
O'Clock or thereabouts. But l don't think
she'll have to be her own laundress long
Shes been wearing brand-new ring the
last month or six weeks. and | guess the
young man who could pay for the stone in
1t will be able to put her on easy street
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13

Another combination which pleases the
woman who wears much black and white
in combination IS the jet buckle on girdle
of white silk cloth or velvet. In planning
this girdle bear n.mnd that Dame Fashion
promises a return to the narrow -girdle eff
feet in the front at least. The long-waisted
girl may retain the high cut in the back,
but pointed effects are promised once more
in the front.
The new jet sets offered in shops show a
two or three-inch buckle for the front and
eight or ten-inch slide for the back. They
cost anywhere from s. to SD a set. To
initiate them in home work cut the foun-
dation in pliable pasteboard and cover first
with thin cotton wadding sewed on firmly.
Next sew on your black foundation. firm
taffeta silk being the best of all Cover
this soldly with the beadwork, sewing 1t
on crosswise, as thus it is easier to keep
your lines straight.
Before lining the buckle insert feather
bone the exact length of the beaded strips,
so that the buckle will bend to the figure
and not break. Cover this with silk and
YOUR buckle is ready for the girdle, to
which it should be sewed tight. buckle
ten inches deep should be not more than
two inches wide, and the effect is better IL
Il Is even narrower
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13

x
Are you wearing on your side of the water
the new St Patrick blue? 1 suppose you
think have made mistake and mean the
emerald hue one always associates with
Irelands patron saint, but, pardon me.
shall insist upon the blue, and will explain
that il Is the lovely shade seen In st. Pat
rcks ribbon Paquin reSorted to the use
of this color in the bridesmaids gowns de-
signed for the attendants of Princess Mar
garet of Connaught at her marriage to
Prince Gustavus AdolphuS of Sweden, be-
cause the princess is exceptionally fond OF
everything Irish. 1t has been taken up by
lesser lights and IS now an exclusive rage
here at the capital. There are two other
shades that are new and smart-carnation
red of the Glove pink tone and gooseberry
green There is also novelty IN a lnen
costume a New York social leader will take
over with her to wear at q Newport garden
party This is responsible for the crea-
ton which is of dull finished wide meshed
white crash, made in three pieces. consist
ing of skirt bodice and empire coat-al
trimmed with embroidered guipure lace
done in cherry red. The skirt Is long and
the embroidery, which is worked on the
lengths before they are made up, Is In
strips The blouse has wide bands of en-
broidery forming bretelles, sleeves and h!gh
belt The coat in empire style is ELABORATE
ly worked with embroidery and Inlsheu
with tiny plaitings of red ribbon. Inc glrdle
cherry red velvet. The sleeves, which are
elbow length, are gathered into tWo-inc n
band of the velvet. A hint to the sklilfui
needleworker: Determine how you want
your gown trimmed and then purchase the
required amount of embroidery and go over
the pattern with embroidery cotton in any
shade YOU fancy. This would be fine pickup
work. and as this mode will not reach the
American dressmakerS before next summer
YOU may steal a march on Dame Fashion.
IF YOU want to be in the vanguard OF
smartness have made a circular wrap reach
ing about ten inches from the end Of the
skirt Of Scotch plaid lined with cherry col
ored china silk This cloak fits perfectly
about the shoulders and has seam up the
back. The neck is finished with small
rned-oyer collar of velvet and large vel
vet buttons fasten the cape down the front
These wraps are very suitable for motor
ing, boating and travelling, and there Is
hint that in silk this wrap VIII be the ac-
capted garment for theater wear next WIN
ter Short capes cut on similar lines reacn-
ing to the hips and lined with burnt orange
and made of plain, dark cloth VIII be worn
in the street during the fall.
Pioue costumes are very smart and do not
consist exclusively of short skirts and tai
tornado Jackets. They take every shape
and cooring-a long skirt with plaits Ia
religieuse separated one from the other by
insertions of thick Venetian lace. ana en-
ptre Jacket caught al the back by crossed
iannets with mother-of-pearl buttons ana
adorned with a Robespierre collar or long
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-13
A HALF DOZEN SUMMER GOWNS.

ingly, in answer to her snobbsh brother
remark. You can't afford to marry a poor
man well. they don't ask me- l fancy
l look more expensive to keep up than
really am" What a sermon there is in that
reply, The happy art of looking ones best
on very little money is accomplished at the
cost of sartorial tact. There's a new applt-
cation of the word for you to make note
nf