New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1905-12-10
Paris. December L.

Paris, December I.
aEns-sTsz< sHstrso SUCCESS OF the season prom
sees TO be fancy cloths, striped. blocked OF in
sSSsnso4.ds. some with smooth surface and some
WIN felttng effect Some of these carry out the
ssop41lar aton sur ton idea. and others show
mixture OF colors and shades. But after al
sas appearance at a distance is Of plain cloth.
zcs the oolors chosen ere generally dead
shades tat glide one into another without any
startling contrasts This idea really illustrates
ztse note of the season, harmony and sobriety
zakher than striking effects.
The Directoire form Of coat and skirt suit Is
particularly good made up in cloth Of a diamond
,sstsrn through which run several discreet
shades of brown and green. the effect being an
olive green. The coat, knee long and slightly
shaped IN at the waist line has a bolero top,
ornamented with stitching and pointed revers Of
green velvet The fronts are loose and lightly
united by cord ornaments. The collar and cuffs
of velvet have the corners lightly embroidered
with gold thread, and there are four dull gold
buttons on the bolero part Of the garment
Directoire ideas are so prevalent now that it
seems almost impossible to describe any gown
garment without making use Of the word, for,
IN truth, almost everything has some hint Of
that period. Naturally, these modes as seen to-
day have been completely modernized- and even
In extreme cases they are anything but copies
Of the gowns that passed originally under the
name Of Directoire The loose lines are by no
means universally becoming. but some modifica-
ticn, such as a princess skirt with q loose top.
CT half fitted garment with q bolero attach
Inent, seems generally popular and suitable.
If the lines OF the figure are good, nothing is
better than certain examples Of the true Di-
-ectoire robe. a distinguished costume is
combination Of black satia faced cloth and brett
schwartz embroidered in black chenille. The fur
s. used to form loose bolero, hanging In
rounded pattes almost to the waist line over the
loose gown Of cloth. The gown falls from the
bust. although it Is slightly shaped under the
arms and there is no trimming used on the
Elcth- The tabs of the bolero are embroidered
with chenille, and the two that lightly Cross In
'front.' have the embroidery carried over the
shoulders There IS a little chemisette and
chol0er Of AIenQon lace.
One delightfully."- simple Directoire gown as to
Zine and ornamentadon is OF Nile green NOUS
Beline velvet, lightly embroidered with a fine
SILK cord and worn over spencer OF cream silk
ssoe- The fitted part OF the ROPE, which barely
eUvers the bust, is shirred down the middle of
Rse back and in front, where it fastens with
embroidered tabs over the lace underbodice.
Ihs bottom of the skirt Is embroidered to the
Anees. but the silk is everywhere the color of
Rss velvet The hat is a small round turban
SKINNED with a single long plume that passes
hearty once about the brirn with the end falling
On the hair. Another gown is OF cream CASH
mere. much cut out and embroidered, and made
into loose tunic over gown of Alencon. The
Bottom OF the lace skirt is finished by band of
lowered ribbon on a gold ground. The broad
hat is Of violets, turning I'D exravagantly on
'1ns side. with an immense sweep Of aigrettes In
fha same tone
gEw WHITE GLOVES WORN.
Even for the afternoon now few white gloves
azs woEn Suede IN the natural shade, with
closed. wrfnkled wrists. is the first choica These
aEs sonet1mes ornamented with heavy white
szs4$cntn<.
Tea gowns sTs most luxurious AFFAIRS IL
sailing bah gowns IN expense and elaborate or
Izmznen4a4ion- An illustration chosen at random
Ss q tea gown from Paquin's which shows that
iccunbt1at4m Of and gray so favored by
sthss house. The undergown is OF rnousseline de
sole in d warm shade Of pink and trimmed only
ny three bias bands Of satin set on at the bot
szubroidered IN silver that the foundation can
hardy be SEEN and confined by sash of gray
velvet finishing with rosettes.
An idea pLs forward by famous dreSsmaker
sE a garment combining the characteristics of a
tea gown and dinner gown. II consists Of a
7s5th panels Of white Chantillys with e loose
mantle Of brocaded and re-embToie red silk
# Is slightly decoiets and made WITH short
sleeves end may serve as dinner gown by re-
moving the mantle and adding appropriate
5he prattiest house gowns ara after all those
made entirely OF thin s6uhS. and IN which
heavy silks or satins play no part For instance,
a robe OF white crepe De chine Is inset with
faoe end worn with a lace tuf.c fastened with
q gold belt Another exquisite affair has a