The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1905-04-28
FOR WOMEN READERS#
IA BROWN CLOTH STREET COSTUME

is impossible to get any dressmaker to
altogether leave off trimmings. Almost
any material is the prettier for a touch
or some contrasting shade or fabric.
and because of this use of decoration it
must be admitted that never was there
such a variety of smart gowns within
the reach of all.
AS the warmer season approaches,
trimmings grow lighter in weight and
effect, and the prettiest of the palmer
orramentations is braid with a combi-
nation Of fiat silk motives trinity
stitched. Even the braid seems to take
on a special airineSS to suit the occa-
sion. and instead of loading down skirts
and boleros they are a delightful relief
from embroideries
AS the devotees of brown will not be
satisfied with the smart offerings in
green, gray and mauve, il has been
necessary to offer them special models,
one OF which is sketched here. The
shade is trifie darker than the popular
fox of the winter, yet it lacks any of
the reddish coloring which would make
1t too warm looking for this time of the
year. What appeals to the worshippers
OF the brown cult is the fact that there
are no conflicting colors. The gown
Is all brown, with just bit of gold.
Wide apart kilt plaitS go all round
the skirt, which is made short. The
plaitS are stitched little less than half
way down. ard on the widest part of
each is stitched 4 scroll of brown taft
feta carefully cut out to fit each section
and starting and ending at the fold of
the plat. forming, as il were. almost
Semicircle. The scroll idea, which is a
modification of the popular spiral trim
ming, predominateS. 1t forms the trim
ming motive for bolero as we'll as skirt.
yet its curves do not obtrude them
selves upon the senses of the spectator.
The short coat. or bolero. is perfectly
plain as to foundation, and il describes
slight curve across the bottom of the
front. At the neck it opens in a point
and down each side of the center is an
arrangement of taffeta scrolls combined
artistically with braidS. The silk appli
cations are about an inch wide. and
these are decorated with three parallel
rows of narrow brown braid put on to
follow the outline of the design which
the silk pieces take.
Similar strips are brought around
the bottom of the bolero to the back.
where they are elaborated a little. and
down the front for the width of an inch
or more each side of the opening is Il
brown vest trimmed with very narrow
gold braid. At the neck the idea of the
vest changes and the design becomes
one carried out in narrow brown braid
on white cloth.
from whence it is brought into the deep
puff with more plaits. A strip of brown
taffeta trims the wrist. then forms an
angle/and continues up the outside Of
the cuff to end in a scroll just over the
plaits where the puff is brought into
the cuff. The girdle is rather wide and
is carefully fitted to the lines of the
figure. Ii is trimmed with straps of
silk and above ii one gets a glimpse of
a soft brown silk blouse pouched ever
so slightly.
g Another stunning walking costume
with a skirt just clearing the ground
shows less of the brown. The front is
laid in unstitched plaits and bordered
with bias band of the material, which
displays delightful mixture of brown,
tan and white in a small plaid. AT in
tervals the bias strip is run for several
inches across the bottom and then
turned to extend about the same dis
lance up the skirt, where it ends in
point fastened with fiat cloth covered
disks.
The coat reaches to the knees and is
bordered in front and all round with a
similar bias band having a row of but
tons from the bust TO an equal distance
below the waist. A narrow vest of
cloth on the straight brings the coat
together. This is simply trimmed with
pipings and bands of tan and white
cloth with touch of braid.