The sun., 1905-12-31


however, that the black stitching will soon
be thought the smartest thing TO wear.
White neokties are made of striped or
corded linen, cut of medium width and
only slightly broader at the ends The
butterfly wings are, Of course, as extinct
AZ the dodo, and ties are rather broader
than they have been for several years
past
When neither poke nor a lapfront collar
is worn the tie may be kept in place by
white pin stuck Immediately through the
centre OF the tie and the lap OF the collar
The various gold and other pins made
for this purpose should be avoided by
all who want TO keep to the best style. II
il a mistake TO have the ties worn with
evening dress made IN the least stih with
starch
As TO handkerchiefs, the we'll dressed
man should cling to pure white linen. lhey
may be had in any degree OF fineness. But
the cheapest Is just as correct IN style as
the most expensive. Mems dress nand-
kerohiefs in the sheer muslin, with en-
broidery and ornaInentation may cost as
much az $40.
The headgear Of evening dress il the silk
hat OF ordinary daytime wear. According
to every rule or correct dressing, the opera
hat is the better style, That is true OF
every country but the United States ,
In New York the best dressed men, for
reasons OF their own, prefer to wear silk
hats in the evening. Thus it happens
that one sees them In the corridors OF the
Metropolitan Opera House and at Sherry s
when there is a large ball going on.
Need it be- added to these remarks on
evening dress that black tie should never
be worn with evening dress except when
man Is in mourning? Then he wears with
il black waistcoat and mourning studs.
Pearls are commonly regarded as mourn
1N1x har IL
think that black enamel is alone correct
for mourning,
Naturally, such evening dress is worn only
to mems dinners or to small dinners at which
a few women are present, Persons III such
deep mourning do not go into society. A
black tie with white waistcoat is Sar-
toral improperly that no pressure OF cir
cumtances could excuse.
The dinner coat is an extremely useful
garment The best test of the appropri-
ateness of the dinner coat is the presence
Of ladies' 1t might be safely predicated
as rule that il is out of place when ladies'
are to be present where it is worn.
But there are exceptions TO this rule
Men who are in the habit of dressing every
night for dinner feel that the dinner coat is
formal enough for home use; and they are
right
As result of this, they also believe that
they can wear dinner coat when they go to
the theatre with their wives. This is, OF
course, less permissible and the best dressed
man is he who goes to the theatre with his
wife in full evening dress.
' At informal evening gatherings for
bridge or other games men are libely to
| take advantage of the greater comfort OF
the dinner coat But this tendency does not
prove that the style is correct. Whenever
women are present coattails and white ties
should be feature of evening dress.
| The newest style in the Tuxedo or dinner
IL n nnIrpS SSp1 WOrEtp0,
close fitting and long enough TO fall well
| below the hips. The seams in the back of
the coat are so curved as to produce mod
erately bell shaped effect
This novelty must not however, be eX-
aggerated. The least excess in the bell
| shape turns a smart shade of fashion into
, vulgarity.
| The coat may be made as tight fitting in
the waist as the wearer wants. II is best
! form to have the coat close fitting, but
/ looSer than a dress coat
The shoulders are not padded. but of
| natural width and the laDelS are long and
narrow, with two buttonholes, which are,
of course. not used. The pockets of the
dinner coat are made without flaps and in
some coats they are vertical and not hori-
| zontal
The waistcoat and trousers are finished
! in braid the waistcoat having three but
| tons and being cut with rather a pointed
effect in both the opening and at the bot
| tom. In plain cloth IKE the rest OF the
| suit the wastcoat Is single breasted.
Tie plain waistcoats are so little worn.
! however, that they no lonoer come into
notice. GRAY and black silk waistcoats.
which a re almost invariably double brea sted.
are made to relieve the plainess of the
| dinner coat Whether or not they are
good form is a question that has little
effect on their popularity.
There was no possibility Of wearing n
white wastcoat with Tuxedo and there
was a revolt against the extreme plainness
of the black waistcoat from those men
irving to convert the Tuxedo into some
thing it was never intended to be. So
| the fancy waistcoats have come to stay.
| Black silk ties with a figure in satin or
with stripe are the appropriate neckwear, r,
while the hiqh turnover collar is the most
appropriate for this kind of suit
| Worn to the theatre, high buttoned
patent leather shoes and derby ha. COM
plete the costume in accordance with the
requirements Of the best style. A silk hat
is as inappropriate to dinner Jacket as a
| brown derby; vet both are sometimes seen,
to the encouragement Of good taste in
dressing