The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-05-14

Enoothly Up under the short sleeve and held
there, viii take the curse on the ugly arm
upon the street in carriage and at most after
noon and evening functions, but for the
house gown the mode is an audsclous one.
OF course there will be much compromise
Undersleeves OF all sorts and descriptions,
but principally the undersleeve OF lace and
Gheer material, with long close cum reach
ing almost TO the elbow and full pun above
that, will be used 70 exc out the abbreviated
sleeve and hide the arm, and the idea Is a
wise one II the frock is TO be worn without
gloves and the wearer Is not the fortunate
possessor Of well rounded arms and re-
tring and modest elbow.
Sleeves ending well up above the elbow,
Ike the little short sleeve puffs OF some OF
the new lingerie frocks, are really not 60
trying as those that stop just sh0rt OF th '
elbow. for the upper arm is usually much
better from an esthetic viewpoint thar
the forearm, and taken in conjunction with
Il the forearm and elbow are les hopeless
than they often are withoutit.
But our dressmakers have learned that
their original effort at compromise which
consisted in brin ging the sleeve down over
the elbow and ending it just below, was net
practicable. The short line curvtng over
the elbow was particularly ugly, and now
all Of the good short models end above the
elbow, through frills may lengthen their
Line.
There are, too, certain sleeves neither
abort nor long and really more trying than
either the short or the long sleeve, which at
tightly below the elbow In band or fat Gun
into which the full top Is shaped OF fulfilled,
but these are the least attractive OF the
seasons sleeve models
One Of the prettiest Of the short sleeves is
formed Of several frills overlapping and set
on q puff foundation OF on three separate
foundations, all set into the armhole and
varying in length. In some cases the top
fril is the fullest and widest and the bot
tom frill Ats rather closely to the arm, 90
that the broad shoulder line and gigot sug-
Festion are achieved, but more often the
frills are held out by pun mdersleeve,
ending Just above the elbow. The nil
sleeves are particularly pretty when made
10 slope downward in points on the outer
arm.
The plain pun sleeve with fril is ubiqui-
tous and may either reach 10 the elbow,
With a narrow frill there, OF may be frilled
into a broad band Of trimming about the
elbow while from this band falls deep
Crill or double frills. covering the elbow.
One sees two puffs ending In a broad
band Of embroidery OF other trimmin g.
edged with narrow valenciennes frills on
both borders, and with nothing falling over
the elbow. Double puts, very full and
falling somewhat like frills. are liked, and
all kinds Of sleeve caps over lingerie CT lace
pufs are in order.
Close fitting short sleeves wrinked In
mousquetaire fashion are seen, especially
with the sharp pointed, high busted Louis
bodices, and short sleeves full at top the but
shirred closely around the ann az they neal
the elbow are among the models most fre
quenty copied for the afternoon frook Of
silk or lightweight wool.
The iaring cuff just above the elbow Il
favored for the Louis XIV. coats and othe
basqued coats, and one or two rather deer
lace frills usually fall from under the cum
unless some form Of long underHleeve II
used This latter device il an anomaly
with the type Of sleeve, but many womel
will have the long sleeve and yet fancy tn
short outer sleeve with elbow cum.
A long coat sleeve Of moderate top full
ness and either plain or finished with a turn
rack cuff and little lace frill at the wrist Il
In order with such a coat, but Ia reserved
rather for the long skirted Louis XIV. o
Directoire coats, while the elbow Slew
and cuff har1nonize better with the jaunt!
short basque.
A new short sleeve. sketched here ant
very attractive In a combination Of silk an'
chiffon OF other sheer stun, has a very shor
pun Of the silk fuled into a narrow lac
band and draped frill Of silk bordered by
ace falls from the band down the outside
Of the arm, while a close shirred under
sleeve Of chiffon Ats the arm tightly from
band to elbow and IL left uncovered on tn
inner side Of the arm.
Lace frlls, very short puhs and mer'
garlands falling over the arm and leavinI
the support Of the bodice TO a shoulde
strap, are some Of the sleeves MOE. Otter
Introduced upon evening bodies, but tn
Nrnkled close fitting transparent slew
reaching 10 the elbow and finished by {
Nnl appears upon many evening bodies