davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27

the greatest service. On the dark order
rather than the light. In checks. in pialds
and in stripes, are seen many charming
costumes, and regular double plaid, as 1t
were. of two shades Of gray. Is exceeding
ly smart made up in these materials. ana
Is a great relief after the fearful number
of black and white shepherd plaids that
have been seen for the last twelve months.
The plated skirt Is still a great favor
lite. but is better cut than ever. In fact, al
most all dressmakers have reached a de-
gree of proficiency that is surprising in
making this skirt. The plaits are caught
down only a short distance from the waist
line and the skirt is tremendously wide
around the foot.
The medium-length coat, tight-ftting and
with fancy buttons and narrow lapels, col
lar and cuffs finished with the material it
self Is the favorite style for this garment.
Many of the sleeves have no cuffs at all.
but finished with two buttons and but
ton holes at the wrist This. of course. is
on the strictly tailor-made order of cos
tune. and is now considered an absolute
necessity.
1t is worn until late In the autumn and
locks smart at all times. although. OF
course. 1t is not ever appropriate IN the
afternoon. 1t is emphatically a hard wear.
practical costume. such as every woman
requires. and If we'll made and well turned
out can be most becomingly and immense
~ smart. spite Of its great severity.
More elaborate and yet not over elab
crate yelling and light cloth costumes that
worn for the Afternoon are made with
long skirts-not with trains, but long
enough to touch the ground-and the coats.
as has been said. are on the elaborate or
der. Now Is the time when costumes of
taffeta are immensely useful. especially
those In black. and 1t is surprising how
many black tafYeta costumes have lately
made their appearance. These. however
have absolutely nothing in common with
the cheaper grade of black tafreta that was
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27
Chintz Applique on Net Portieres.

tee. over this the wistaria applicat ton.
put Al at the fronts and bottoms of the
curtains, produced the effect of flowers
clambering over n trellis. Roses are also
beautiful on the cross-bar muslin.
Besides being used for portieres, the
chintz applique is now a popular decora-
ton for the walls OF bedrooms and dressing
rooms. For this purpose 1t Is quite usual
to use first background of striped paper
or cross-bar paper to give the trellts effect.
Green and white paper. pink and white
yellow and white or lavender and white.
according to the color of the chntz which
is to be used, are popular. The plain tint
ed paper is also used. After the paper is
on the chintz flowers. leaves, ETC.. are cut
out and pasted on at regular intervals.
They should be rather far apart. The
frieze for such rooms is usually OF the
chintz border. which matches the applique.
The chintz flowers are also used for dec
Grating bedspreads. The foundation OF the
bedspread may be of striped. plaid or plain
muslin but is usually heavier than the mus
lin used for portieres. The chintz flowers
are cut out and sewed on to suit the taste
of the maker. Cushions made with this
kind Of decoration are also most attractive.
The groundwork for the cushion covers is
uecally Of linen. coloreA piQus or batiste.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27

into point on either side This makes the
sides formed OF the ribbon almost plain and
the bottom quite so. The two pieces of bro
cade are then put on perfectly plain and
overhanded along the edges TO the satin
ribbon. At the top the ends OF the rib
bon are ted into bow.
The brocade handker chief case hero
shown is Of white brooade, with decora-
tion of ribbon work. The case is straight
on the lower edge. The sides slope out
ward toward the top, which is slightly
rounded The back OF the case is extended
in flap about six inches deep, which folds
over the front Of the case and buttons
down. This flap is wider at the top. mar
rowing toward its extreme edge.
The case is padded and scented and has
a lining OF pink taffeta. 1t is edged all
around. including the flap. with two-inch-
wide gold lace. The seams at the edges
ara hidden by a narrow gold cord. The
front or the case and the flap are deco
rated with wreaths OF ribbon work in all
the pompadour shades, lavender. pink and
green, made of narrow ribbon. Even the
little button TO which the flap is fastened
is covered with narrow ribbon.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27

little for them but prescribe medicine, which
they are 10th to buy and 10th to take. even
after 1t Is provided by the doctor or their
white folks" The family nursing is
worthy of Dahomey.
Some OF the more intelligent negroes
have realized this deplorabie state of their
people, and for some time have been try
ing to improve It.
1t Is with that end In view that the
Southern University OF New Orleans, a ne
gro institution, has added recently de-
partment for the training of negro women
as nurses. The old-time nanny was a de-
voted. ttreless and conscientious nurse IL
remains to be seen what sort OF nurse
the daughter will make, trained In a wide
ly different environment
The promoters Of this school insist that
their own people Will be the gamers by
having competent nurses. but their hopes
seem rather utopian. The negro as a rule
Is far too poor to indulge in the luxury OF
a trained nurse. II one of that picked corps
IL to minister at his bedside some society
VIII have to employ her
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27
Pompadour Designs for Boudoir Fittings.

the ribbons are fastened under the cord. 1t
Is under these ribbons that the nightgowns
ara slipped.
After the ribbon straps have been fastened
on the case, the upper side or pad is then
attached to the low er across the top. The
two sides may be sewed together under
the edges of the cord. The upper side of
the case Is trimmed with fall of lace
about ten inches wide. which is gathered
full and caught up at one side with a big
pink bow. The case may be hung up by
two loops at the upper corners.
handsome hat pin cushion is another
most useful addition to ones dressing room
furniture. The one shown IN the picture
is made of brocade and pink ribbon. The
cushion is made of two pieces of brocade.
six inches wide at the bottom and shaped
up toward rounding point at the top and
a piece of three-inch-wide satin ribbon. long
enough to form the two other sides and the
bottom OF the cushion.
AS will be seen in the picture, the cush-
ion is rectangular on the bottom and four
sided, sloping up toward a point al the
top The ends of the satin ribbon are at
the top point of the cushion and are pleated
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27

MONG the most attractive and use
~ full OF the new styles OF handiwork
n for women is the chintz and Gre
tonne applique which is now being
used on q variety of fabrics and for many
purposes. Portieres and sash curtains
made with this decoration are shown as the
newest window drapery at the best deco
rutng shops. Many of the portieres are
OF net of plain and elaborate weaves and
In white, ivory. tan and gray shades. The
chirtz application Is also OF many shades
and includes all sorts OF flowers. leaves
and vines. II Is IN some instances supple
me nted by an application of silk and cord,
either or Cflt or colors.
On pair of sash curtains seen was OF
thin net with all the decoration on the
lower edge and running around the lower
corners for only short distance up the
SIDES. These curtains were meant TO hang
straight over the windows without gathers,
To give them weight n border OF ecru pom
gee. about three inches wide and double,
edged the net on the bottom and sides. The
az plication was made partly on this Dor
der. but II also extended over the net.
The material used for the decoration in
ciuded bands OF white silk about IN inch
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27
6LW CLOTH GOWN.
School for Negro Nurses.

In those good old days before DIR. Joseph
Holt had with his superb system of ma
rine sanitation shut out Yellow Jack from
the Mississippi valley. any fever victims
lucky enough to get an old black nanny
to nurse him snapped his fingers at fate
and the doctors and knew he would pull
through" Nanny got her training in the
experience school. Today mammy's grand
daughters can get theirs in a special train
ing school for nurses-at least that's what
they are doing in New Orleans.
Negro mortality in the south Is very
great due in large measure to their ig-
nCrance, apathy to all suggested sanitary
methods of living and happy go lucky in
difference to death. Every negro is sure of
going straight to glory Doctors can do
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27

~ ROCADE, embroidery ribbon work
IL and all similar ornamentation which
include Powered design In the pom
~ padour effects. most popular in
the elaborate toilet articles now
fashionable. In the accompanying illustra-
tons shown three articles made of
hal dsome materials of the popular brocade
designs. These articles are all most elab-
oIate and are suitable as gifts for persons
whose boudoirs are exceedingly handsome.
The nightgown case here described was
made of white and pink brocade, lined with
white satin and trimmed with heavy cord
and ruff1es of lace. Two pieces of the bro
cade and two of the satin. each almost
yard long and one-half yard wide. are need
ed. Two pads of the same size, scented and
covered with thin cotton material, are first
made and covered on one side with satin
and on the other with brocade. They are
bound with heavy white silk cord. On the
inside of one of these pieces. the under
side of the case, two ribbon straps running
UP and down, are fastened The ribbon of
which the straps are made is six inches
wide and of soft pink satin. At either end
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27

square porch on which to serve IT is a
novel and pleasant way to entertain a
lew friends at this season of the wear
me tlIne set Tor such breakfast Is usu-
ally II o'clock. At the top OF the notes OF
invitation write this Scotch quotation:
Blithe and cheerie well he a.
And make happy quorum.
The round polished table is set with a
large centerpiece of linen with q thistle
design The napkins. of course. are of the
same linen. The decorations will be-
heather. and the place cards will have a
spray of this stuck in one corner II
would be nice to write on each card a
Scotch quotation with a personal applica-
ton. For the beauty of the party. TITS
not n lip or eye we call beauty but the
Joint force and full re salt OF all" For the
carsman. my kingdom Is the blue wave.
my boatie is my throne" All the courses
should be as typical OF things Scotch as
possible. even the butter pats being
stamped with thistle. Finnan haddie,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27

but any other question may be asked as
TO habits.
AS many town-bred women are not ia
miliar with the different breeds of hens
and their habits this list was printed for
consultation:
A.-Good layers. nonsitters, large single
combs-Anconas. speckled; Andalusians.
blue; Leghorns. white. brown, buff and
black: Minorcas, black and white; Span
ish, black with white faces; Redcaps,
small. large combs, black and white plum
age; Houdans. pale legs. five toes: Polish
large crest. very delicate.
B-Good for general purposes-Brah
mas, high tails. heavy in legs; Buff Co
chins, poor layers; Black Langshans. good
layers; Plymouth Rock, cuckoo coloring
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27

oatmeal jelly with whipped cream, toast
ed johnnycakes. scenes. Will be appropri-
ate A cucumber salad would be nice, and
orange marmalade for the sweet course.
served In an attractive fashion. possibly
In clt-out sponge cakes filled with the
marmalade and topped with little whip
ped cream.
A SNOWFALL luncheon, with the decora-
lions. menu and service as cool and pure
in character as can be devised, is another
timely suggestion; also a puzzle spread,
where the viands are purposely made a
little complicated by way of fiavorIng
with intent to deceive. Cards with pen
ellis attached are passed after each course
and the guests are asked to name the in
gradients of the dish of which they have
just partaken. A prize Is given for each
course or points are scored to be counted
at the end Ct the lunchoo0.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27
Facts One Should Know.

cleaning fluid may be made of i've
cents' worth of saltpeter, ammonia and
aving soap dissolved In one quart of rain
water. 1t Is good for a thousand things.
It takes the grease out OF carpets beauti-
fully.
Olive oil is injured by being kept in the
light. When used at the table It should
be put in dark-colored bottle. and re-
moved to a cool, dark place Immediately
after the meal Is over.
Good mace 10 orange yellow. and trans
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27
The old-Fashioned Polonaise.

The coat that has been smart all sum-
meI and is stil In fashion-the one on the
fitted box-coat order-will be seen through
the autumn, but It is a hard design to
carry out we'll and requires a good figure
Il I've becoming.
The lightweight cloths and cashmeres are
charming for this style of costume and are
made up both in light and dark coiors.
There are certain shades OF green. brown
and light gray that are especially attract
I've and that are made up In princeSse ef-
feet or on the old-fashioned polonaise order
Of in the short jacket. the skirt being in
wide narrow pleats and in the circular
shape or gorei. In fact, there is great
variety of styles to choose from in these
same skirts
There IS no trimming on the skirt.
rule. although a band of velvet is rather
smart just around the hem, headed by some
fancy braid. The coat can be finished with
an embroidered velvet collar and cuffs,
II the velvet collar and cuffs is an oppor-
tuiity for the introduction of some con-
trast of color OF OF the same color in an
other shade. anything that is effective and
becoming Is fashionable for this trimming.
but anything that is unbecoming is
fashionable
White facings are decidedly out for the
moment Hand embroidery or hand braid
ing. to speak more correctly. shows to ad-
vantage In this style OF trimming and gives
an opportunity for a sort OF individual
touch that Is effective. At the same time it
makes the costume look smarter and more
suited 10 cool days than the more fancy
anu conspicuous faCings OF white In lace
and embroidery that have been so much
worn during the spring and summer.
The sleeves on this style OF gown are not
exaggerated. They are OF medium size and
larger at the top than at the wrist In
fact. AN idealiZed coat sleeve on the leg o
mutton order seems to be general favor
lite. Tho elbow sleeve coat ~ still in eN
istence. hut then the waist of the gown
must needs correspond exactly and give
N" appearance of being part OF the coat
sleeve. and the lingerie blouse is still
In demand for general wear, It can easily
4" understood that the long sleeve Is. after
all. the more practical
The fuilness OF the sleeve seems to be
put IN box plaits on the shoulder, and the
shoulder seams are not so exaggeratedly
long as they were In fact. the first fash
Ions that coming over seem to be de-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27
/REE.W CLOTH C0NUzAE.

parent. Inferior mace is a dark-red color
and has very little taste.
Lemons can be kept soft a much longer
time by putting them in a jar filled with
water. the water to be renewed every two
days.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27
A HEN CONVENTION.

If you are DESTROYS of entertaining a
lot OF the feminine sex at an afternoon
function one of these summer days startle
even the bored ones into interest by bid
ding them come to hen convention. This
is how Il clever hostess in fashionable
country neighborhood. one noted for the
originality OF her AFFAIRS" entertained
la st week.
Several days before the function she
sent out to about thirty of her special
friends the following announcement:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27

The Misses Lawrence
have much pleasure in
accepting Mrs. Baileys
kind invitation to cluck.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27
Suits of Serge and Cloth.

lr.ISI or SlCl costumes In order to be- well
prepared for whatever line fashion sudden
j. elects to follow. These first tailor gowns,
so called are of very lightweight wool
SCI e yelling or light cotton, and while
they are warm enough to wear on cool days.
they are warm enough TO wear through
the winter, and, in fact, after November
will seem out of season.
y charming fashion that has come hack
into favor Is seen In the dark-blue gowns
with touches OF green or the blue with
touches of brown OF course just the right
shades of color must be used to have the
result satisfactory, but If the right shades
are obtained the effect is most charming.
WITH a short skirt of a heavy quality of
blue veiing-the skirt in pleats and the
flare toward the fOOt-a piping of green is
seen around the edge OF each pleat. Then
the same piping is seen around the Jacket
or. IN fact, wherever it can be put without
seeming COnSpiCuOus-the idea being ap-
pareutly to show that there is such a color
without making 1t too prominent. The
jacket fronts are faced with 1t, but again
hero II is softeued by an over trimming Of
braid in blue and green with feck of
white through 1t, or black, the gown being
lined throughout with the green.
Blue serge now comes into play. and the
sTartest Of blue serge Costumes-that with
the heavy welt or the cord in the material
being prefCrred-are made up and trimmed
with Cloth. the collar. lapel5 and cuffs be-
Ing made OF plain cloth. with braiding of
black sOutaChe. The color can be pale
blue, brown, green or the pinkish mauve
that goes well with blue.
The skirt that is the favorite at present
is on the circular order, but has a narrow
front breadth. There are rows of tucks
around the skirt, giving almost the effect
Of an uvrrskirt. but there is trimming
on the skirt whatever. The short coat or
the long three-Quarter model is the IA
vOrte, and both are fitted close, for no
lOuge Is II fashionable to have the loose
frcnts and tight backs
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27
Close fitting costumes i'm
Blue, Brown and Green
cloth foreshadoWed for
the cool months 8&~

wv = ITH the first C oil days of autumn
VA there are always 10 be seen lot
wv OF smart tailor-made gowns, and
most appropriate they look in
their trim and neat. If somewhat
severe, lines in such sharp contrast to the
more elaborate and rather intricate fash
tons that have been so noticeable all sum-
mcr Some women-espt clally those who
pride themselves on being always smartly
goWned have these tailor gowns made up
late IN tbs spring or Just before starting
of for the summer trip and spend lot OF
time and thought. not to mention money, in
having them carefully designed so they
shall look new and up to date. They repre-
sent, ia fact. the early autumn fashions,
and give more than a hint of what Will be
worn during the winter.
The war Stil RACES between dresSmakcTS
and tsiIurs as 10 what Is the correct style
OF dress for women to wear in the street
The tuilOrs maintain that the short skirt
and tn" almost too severe mannsh effects
are always the best style, while the dress
makers insist thrt In these days a femi
NINE touch IS absolutely requisite, and that
even when cloth costumes are most appro-
pirate they should be sOftened and made
feminine by the style In which they are
faS hIoued or by some elaboration of trim
ming
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-27

Some of the replies We're very funny
Here are few samples of them;
, 1905-07-06
A Woman's Reasoning,

Whats the matter. JuleP" asked
Calpurnia.
Il was just thinking" replied Gaze.
sar, chow much we have lost by being
born too soon. Think what ! might
have done If ] could have lived in
1905. for instance. Instead of being
compelled to put up with such in.
conveniences As we have now I'd find
Il carriage waiting for me whenever
| stepped ont Of the house. I'd travel
around in a private car and have
champagne good thing that hasn't
been invented yet-at every meal. |
would conquer not with the sword,
but by running a meat trust or some
thing equally good. Instead of having
TO fight for things | wanted | could
buy EN- or fix 1t so the people who
had 'em would be forced ont of bust
ness"
Yes" his wife sighed, that is all
very true. but I'd rather have you
just as you are. II you were a TWEEN
tieth century magnate you'd have to
employ n beautiful stenographer. and
| never could be above suspicion
again.
Then his conscience smote him and
he dispatched q messenger to Cleo
patra. imploring her to send back his
letters.
, 1905-07-06
CHOLERA INFANTuM

Ruth, the little Daughter of f. N,
Dewey OF Agnewville, Va, was ser
iously i'll of cholera infantum last
summer. I'VE gave her up and did
not expect her to live from one hour
to another" he says. 81 happened to
think Of Chamblerlain's Collie, Chol
era and Diarrhoea Remedy and got a
bottle OF it from the store. In five
hours ! saw a change for the better
We kept on giving it and before she
had.taken the half OF one small bottle
she was we'll This remady is for
sale by Prices Drug Store.
, 1905-07-06
Fad for Optimism,

One Of TIE nos Wholesome fads
thai has been prevalent mon soci
ETY. al large is the newes of all-cp.
timism.
70 IL Is no longer the fashion to go
about looking as though you bore the
burdens OF the world upon your de
voted shoulders. But, instead. you re
expected to look blithely upon the
world and lis troubles-and your own
troubles. too. says the Philadelphia
North American.
Perhaps il is our free outdoor life
thai has developed the quality. Per
haps it is cnly "A new pose-for pub.
lie opinion must have its poses. like
every individual.
Surely. IL should make happier.
healthier communities out of II cities
and states. Good cheer is more or
less of a habit-pretend to have ii,
and You suddenly wake up to lind
you've really got it. and. too, have ere
ated n more joyous atmosphere for
yourself. that gradually grows neces-
sary to you.
The happy habit is "a good one
much better than the tr~agic-faced,
world-weary type that preceded it.
May the new fad stay in fashion!
, 1905-07-06
KNEW ALL ABOUT APPENDICITIS.
Jersey School superintendent Looses
a Little Mistaken Lore.

Many a laymaS has been "stumped'
in trying to master the ~intricacies OF
the vermiform appendix. But let every
body take heart.
In an aristocratic New Jersey sub
urb recently The superintendent of
public schools was. visiting a grade
while Il lesson in physiology was be-
ing demonstrated. The teacher was
explaining the construction of the
spinal column. She compared 1t to a
string of beads in order to show its
formation, and drew a diagram for
further illumination.
When the lesson was finished the
superintendent suggested that a most
importaI. feature OF the spinal col
umn had not been explained.
1T is this curious. pointed section
at the base he said, indicating the
end of the yertebral column. which Is
called the vermiform appendix. You
have all heard of appendicitis? Very
good. Well, that is the name given
to a disease which is caused by an in
fiammation of his appendix. An OPP
GRAFTON for appendicitis means an
amputatiOn OF this useless appendix"
There is a new superintendent OF
public schools in that suburban New
Jersey town.