New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1905-05-07
Paris. April %. 1905


Although midsummer fashions include great
deal Of ornamentation, the home seamstress VIII
experience little difficulty IN achieving them. II
S. after ALL only tailored simplicity that lies De-
yond the reach Of the amateur. In spite now
ever, Of the prevailing fuffiness ana elaborate
ness Of detail in summer modes there are 10 Dc
found few severe styles. chief among them be-
ing the plain tailored shirt waist
The skirt that clears the ground has achieved
an importance which has never before charac-
terized It. It now belongs 10 the most elao-
crate toilet. The blouse may be inset with lace
and embroidery. and made with sleeves as com
pIicated as those on an elaborate silk or wolfe
visiting gown. The designs for these short
skirts. which, by the way, are cut just one inch
above the ground, and with considerable full
ness at the hem so that they appear even
shorter are not difficult 10 carry out. Almost
invariably they are close about the hips, with
fans of side pleats or clusters Of small box
pleats TO add the necessary fitness. The gored
skirt is also SEEN generally with some additional
tuiness set in the seams at the hem.
Trimming consists Of self strappings buttons
and fancy braids. A heavy white cotton braid is
considered suitable trimming for such a fabric
as toiIe de sole and is certainly fit orna-
rentation for the simplest bingham gown. 1t is
put on IN bold patterns. clover deSsgns, loops and
Greek squares and often used in connection
with small pearl buttons. Sometimes the braid
Is used in several widths.
PHASES OF THE BoLERO
The bolero jacket has returned IN all its classic
forms 1t may be close, or It may have loose.
straight fronts. But it is almost invariably
made with elbow sleeves. IF il is necessary to
cover the arm, that is done by means Of lingerie
undersleeves.
An odd litlle bolero is cut sleeveless, covering
the shoulders in stole fashion and buttoning or
fastening with loops and frogs under the arms.
This is more often q paletot than bolero, for
it is generally cut to cover the waist line. A
handsome model gown in this design has short
skirt laid in clusters Of side pleats with trim
ming Of heavy white braid at the bottom be-
tween The clusters. The material Is toile de
sole in Fre2ch blue, a color that IS much ia
vored. The sleeveless paletot fastens under tie
arms with loops and ornaments OF the coarse
braid AMI has collar Of English embroidery
and heavy Irish lace. There is an incrustatfon
Of English embroidery and lace down the sides,
and the garment is worn over blouse Of fine
linen batiste and valenciennes.
The combination Of what is called the baby"
irish lace and heavy lace in relief is the whim
Of certain great couturier. He shows a gown
which, from its length and general cut. might
be called shirt waist gown. made Of white
linen most heavily decorated in this fashion
The skirt is divided by three broad bands Of the
baby Irish lace which are ornamented with
The raised figures at different places. The lower
part Of the blouse is entirely of the ''ba by lace
and there is a broad band shaped like a bertha
about the collar of linen, ornarnented with the
raised lace The choker and yoke are OF strips
OF linen and the fine lace and the short. cape
ke sleeves are Of linen slashed to fall over under
sleeves Of the fine lace.
LINEN SHIRT COSTUME.
Another shirt waist costume is Of heavy ivory
united linen, the skirt cut with yoke forming a
tront apron with the clusters Of side pleats on
the BACK and sides. With the exception of cIus-
tiers Of small pearl buttons down the apron - is
uhtrlmmed- The bodice has a strap Of onep
"ork embroidery about the shoulders and cross
Ing on the bust and the linen IS attached n 41,;
in the form Of small box pleats. which are also
trimmed with the buttons. The closing &c I'm
ished with frill Of fine pleating, and the vol-e
cred ''N eii'prolo-
The sleeves consist Of pun Of the plain st,,es