The Saint Paul globe., 1905-02-26

n gowns. is always at its best in
spring and autumn. Thin COW
ert and thin French cloths are then
used with several cuts and fine tailor
ing. and with a black shirt and hat the
sage and brown tints in these accord
most stylishly.
Advanced spring styles show no dim
mutton in the prestige of covert cloth
as a coat material. In every shade or
tan and pale brown and brownish sage
are seen loose and half-ftting models,
some slightly trimmed and some mar
nishly plain. With the looser box
models sleeves are usually in coat
shapes of moderate size, but the new
spring sleeve is vast mutton leg,
pleated clumsily at the top. This arm
covering though suiting some, is not
successful with all coats. But the in
creasing bigness of bodice sleeves
makes the upper fulness necessary,
and it has the merit of Eewness. There
is only one thing to expect from the
present trend of fashion. If bodice
sleeves go on growing coat sleeves
must in time spread from shoulder to
elbow. as there is a tendency with some
of the new sleeves toward the old bot
tom puff
Some Of the three-quarter tweed
coats for practical service are in belt
ed ulster forms, with a plain contrast
ing material forming a deep collar and
cuffs An innovation with the plain
and novelty covert models is the use
of quite a bright green or black velvet
for these details. This dressy touch
will doubtless be found acceptable to
many, but the woman who wants an
aI-rourd garment knows the value of
perfectly plain and well-tailored coat.
In the way of travelling garments,
japanese pongee realizes some very
stunning busters in black and cream,
with superb Japanese embroideries
These are raised high from the pom
gee, whose coarse, ribbed weave is like
the old-fashioned poplin, and over the
wide collars and deep cuffs sport as
tonishingly big peacock and dragons
and temples!
But for really smart uses, the sepa-
rate coat is no longer at the top of the
ladder. The coat gown has taken its
place, this admitting even in tailored
shape many coquetries, and the most
elegant accessories.
The vogue the spring will accord
the coat gown will be unprecedented.
Many -QlStlncuVe ana picturesque
styles will be exploited, some of the
models adventuring even upon the
audacious as to absolute independence
of style.
Closely fitting redingotes, skirt
length and three-quarter length, will
be seen, as well as fitted and belted
jackets; all of these taking the place of
the bolero models which have reigned
SO long. Upon these gowns, too, for
which smallish and very jaunty hats
will be designed, will be employed the
most superb belt effects. Laces in an
tique patterns will shape cravats and
sleeve falls, and many belt fastenings
will initiate the beautiful old gem
trimmed canoes worn by our great
grandmothers.
A group of rare gown designs, as
yet shown only on paper, depict some
likely spring elegancies.
A redingote gown in black velvet
suggests the romantic period when
Beauty travelled by stage coach in vel
vet and diamonds. The arrangement
of the bodice portion of the coat, which
is tightly girdled to the figure, is de-
lightfully unique. With the front. of
the waist and sleeve bottoms slashed
in squares, the waist opens over
blouse of lace tulle. Two palm leaves
embroidered in silver and white, below
the bust, seem to hold the bodice to-