Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-15

were inset shirred cores, which gave extra
fullness around the feet Just above the
hem were appliqued garlands of plain blue
ribbon to match the blue in the check.
These were laid on in the form of boul-
liones about two inches wide and edged
with very fine quality of Valenciennes
lace about half an inch in width. The
front of the bodice was shirred into the
under arm seam and then drawn up, fan
shape, to meet in point just below the
bust line. This bolero effect was outlined
by narrow boullones of blue to match those
on the skirt, and under it appeared a vest
of very fine white mousseline with tiny
rulings of the lace. The sleeves showed
deep, tight-fitting cuffs of shirred silk, the
shirrings outlined by the narrow white
lace and the upper part of the sleeve stood
out stiffiy from the shoulder.
Care must be taken in selecting the lace
to combine with even the least expensive
of the checked taffetas. Better little lace
of good quality than many yards of cheap
cotton stuff. because by contrast silk shows
up at its worst or at its best
The home dreSsmaker who would make
success of her work this season must start
beneath the gown. She cannot secure the
desired effect. particularly in the princess
patterns, unless she builds on the founda-
ton of a perfect-fitting corset. The new
corset gives the effect of a small waist with
out tight lacing. This Is essential, since the
loose pouched fronts have given place to
high. snug-fitting girdles, but 1t does not
mean that the straight front has disap
peared. The new corset is higher in the
bust and the once-popular straight line
down the front is retained in the new
models, but the bust is cleverly boned to
give a definite curve, and at the sides and
back the boning shows more decided curve
than it has done in ten or fifteen years. The
long-waisted effect is also retained and the
smartest models are the longest over the
hips. Suspenders are quite generally shown
on the new corsets, presumably to straight
en- the figure.
Be Well Fitted.
All the better class of shops have expert
filters in their corset departments, and a
woman should not hesitate to request their
services If she is investing in good corset.
A first-class ready-made corset properly Sc
lected and fitted, Is worth more than a
made-to-order corset of the cheaper grade.
1t will pay the shopper to deduct So or 81
from the trimmings of a gown and add this
to the price of her summer corset, for with
out a perfect-ftting corset a good set to a
princess gown is absolutely impossible.
Both house and street gowns admit the
princess treatment, and it Is peculiarly eff
fective when it appears in the rough silks,
such as silk burlap and real pongee. A
beautiful princess model in tan color burlap
had waist Of silk In the same shade, with
self-tone lace, just trif1e lighter draped
over 1t. The lower part of the sleeve was
plain and tight fitting, the upper part show
ing puff divided by shirred bands of the
lace. Double straps of silk are adjusted
veloped in wolfe or even the less expensive
nuns yelling in any of the popular spring
shades, with silk guimpe, lace trimmed.
The girl who trembles at the thought of
fitting a princess dress may substitute the
suspender bretele waist. This involves