The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-01-29
THE SLEEVE AND THE CUFF.
MOST NOVEL FEATU RE or THE
SPRING FASHIONS.
seamstrcssrS All over the Country Engaged
IN Turning Last summers Sleeves
pslde Down-The MudISh sleeve May
lie Much TrImmcd-Elahorate Styles.


lie Much Trlmmed-Elaborate styles.
The sleeve is the cornerstone Of the
o,ndntion " the now frocks and is the veNed
rroblom for the woman who is already
,ncdttatng concerning the making over
Of last summers frocks.
skirts we're already taking an ample full
no-- last summer. blouses were modified.
e,rIle- Huod and high were making their
way Lui the sleeve Of last summer was
accommodated TO the long shoulder 1880
dronr and was prone TO do it's own droop-
ing ~ the vicinity of the wrist. All that
Will never do now that the leg o mutton
la- COME into its own again.
However. there is no need TO despair,
FOR rr1uded the dress AZ the start il fairly
fin. the making over Of last summers
Thin frock is not in a majority of cases
likely to lee very serious matter II the
woke and shoulder lines were very much
refrigerated. 1t will be necessary 30 change
them but that can usually be done without
any great difficulty, and if in order to shorten
tie yoke on the shoulders it is necessary
10 nft the body of the blouse up from the
waist Inc. the extra bousing of last year
may perhaps furnish the few inches of
material needed.
II not. higher grdle will hide the deficit
iu-t above the waist band, or perhaps an
ir-e, hand OF lace running around the
bodice between yoke and eircile will lengthen
the blouse a. much as ia required when it
/. taken up to show shallower shoulder
yoke.
The round transparent yoke, the bertha.
the tucker. the Dutch neck, the surplice
front with its opening filled in or not as
the wearer peases-all these were last
summer's modes and will still be in favor
vneu next summer comes. but the blouse
must not pouch much and the waist line
must not dip in exaggerated fashion, al
though sharp pointed girdles are to be
worn as well az the less extreme round Cir
dies with very slight downward dip IN
front.
These grdes should be made of folded
silk or ribbon and carefully fitted and
honed or made up over one Of the ready
made foundations sold in the shops for
upon their trmness and shapeliness the
graceful line Of the loose frock often de-
ponds
But to go back to the sleeves. Seam
stresses all over the country are busily
engaged in turning old sleeves upside
down Very often tie Old fulness on the
lower arm III so anple that when it is re-
versed and placed al the sleeve top it makes
the cutting of fashionable sleeve top a
possibility
Then again. many Of the old sleeves we're
fu,, at the arm hole, but the fulness was
laid in tucks or plaits and stitched part
way down the arm. being left to flare only
n it neared the elbow. When such plaits
are very carefully ripped the sleeve top
may be recut in the fashionable shape
Possibly the old sleeve will not cut over
into full length, modish sleeve. but in this
dlr n he long close cuff that is not neces-
sarv and by hook or crook one may in
almost every instance get a full enough
upper sleeve out OF the old material. and
add to il transparent cuff 10 the elbow,
formed Of lace embroidery or some other
trimming
Elbow sleeves too. big at the armhole
hiit narrowing toward the elbow are in
high favor. and may take the place Of the /
fui length sleeve but it is with the sleeve
with the long light cuff that we are CON
oerned to-day.
Il IS practically ubiquitous, that sleeve
mode Nine ont of ten of the dainty lingerie /.
b.oiisc- and Of the simpler new thin frock7 /
have H. and the variations upon it are |
legion
Here are sketches of number Of these
variations simple enough TO be Of use to
the woman who il making her own thin
sumner frocks or is obi ged to entrllst !
them 10 AN ordinary seamstress and among
tr'm there should be suggestions helpful .
To- oven Tho most fastidious.
or curse tho simplest form Of the sleeye
W aro considering has the full upper sleeve .
without trimming and close long Gun
made ~ bands Of narrow lace insertion
OF and. NJ Insertion alternating wi tn bands