The San Francisco call., 1905-03-19

a g1rQle ana IOr a uOuuCe I1l1u11eu anu
maybe little to spare for a hat or
for bows upon your waist. The fower-
ed, the Dresden. the Pompadour. and
the art nouveau ribbons are to be very
muchs worn this year.
Ribbon trimmings are to be- both
numerous and costly and (. there win
scarcely be a limit to the ways in
which the bows and the furbeloNvs. the
ribbon roses. the ribbon vtolets- and
the knots are worn
- So intricate have the ribbon trim
mings become that special ribbon
workers are engaged In making them
and there are dress artists whose
whole work lies in designing the ribbon
decorations of the spring.
A Chat With Ribbon Artist.
The new ways OF wearing ribbons
are most interesting said one OF
these workers. I'VE make everything
from scented violets and perfumed
ribbon roses to the most elaborate
waist trimmings and sash designs.
"One Of the simplest. though pret-
test. Of ribbon trimmings is the lit
tie ladder OF ribbon bows which is
arranged I'D the front OF the waist
] made one of these little ladders of
bows out OF black velvet ribbon. Each
one was about the size OF a little black
butterfly. And all were made with
mathematical precision. precisely
alike, the same size and finished in
the same manner. There were eight
or ten OF them, and they were used to
close the front OF blue peau de sole
evening waist
II made another little bow ladder OF
white satin with a tiny gold buckle
in the middle or each very much. like
a slipper buckle. These are also very
accurately made. The trouble with
an amateur is that she makes her
bows too sloppily. They are OF differ
ent sizes and they show poor work.
manship. 1t takes the hand Of a pro-
fesStonal.
"A ribbon trimming which Ii lovely
for evening waists consists OF many
petals of rose colored ribbon arranged
along the front Of the bodice just
where it outlines the neck, These
petals ara made OF rose-colored- rib
bon and are actually shaped like rose
petals. One very lovely petal trim
ming consisted OF many OF these pc
tails in many different shades OF rose
colored ribbon and in white and
cream ribbon. They were arranged
along the neck of the bodice and at
one side there was big bow Of rose
colored silk.
You can do perfect miracles with
the sashes Of the summer" said this
ribbon worker. 'I take wide ribbon
and make a girdle OF 1t so that 1t has
the appearance of carelessness. AT
the back I knot the ends and make
beautiful great big handsome bows.
These can be attached to the skirt to
make handsome trimming
But the newest trimming Of the year
in the ribbon line Is the knot OF ribbon
which was described by the old-time
novelists as a 'snood.' The heroines
Of other days invariably wore a snood
of blue ribbon In their auburn locks
and the belle Of to-day also wears a
snood
rather elaborate knot which is like
q double knot with the middle pulled
out. To make far puff there are no
loops or bows at all But there are
two ends which ara out In pigeon wing
fashion. I make a snood for the side
OF the pompadour; another for the
back OF the hair and several for the
bodice. 1t requires some little skill to
make a snood as 1t should be1made.
but ] find IL well repays my time and
trouble. for 1t is becoming.
The Delicate Summer Touches.
'.The ribbon trimmings that are ar
ranged around the tops Of the summer
hounces are Of a kind to be taken of
in the laundry. There are knots Of
IlDDOn connected py loops OF the same.
And the whole Is then set around the
head OF a 1ounce. where it serves as
very handsome finish.
Here is a gown which depends
largely upon its ribbon treatment. The
material is handsome silk challie with
cream ground, upon which there are
small pink and green figures The skirt
is one Of those very full summer skirts
cut round. There is a deep hounce
around the foot. And the top Of the
fiounce is gathered half a dozen times.
At the head there is a trimming OF
Oriental lace, and this is caught in
place with knots OF pink ribbon. each
a strip OF pink ribbon.
Many Of the pretty ribbon trim
mings have little art nouveau button,
no bigger than the head Of a full grown
pin, in the middle Of each knot. II
the gown is intended for a piazza gown
and IL it has a tasteful ribbon treat
ment il will have no difficulty in tax
ing its place along with the finest silk
null, even though it be only a cheap
figured lawn"
10 depart a little from the ribbons
of the season one may lust touch upon
the skirts which are necessary to the
success of the shirt waist There are,
as every skirt maker knows. two ways
OF making the full summer skirt One
way Is by making 1t Of many cores.
And the other way is by cutting tha
summer skirt circular. In either case
the skirt IS very full around the foot
One can do a great deal with the cir
cular skirts And one can do lot
with the gathered skirts, which are
tucked or gathered around the hips and
made elaborate by their methods or
being finished.
There Is such fancy for the short
skirt that Dame Fashion for time
refuses to look at the very long one.
The long skirt Is worn by women who
feel that 1t adds to their height. But
the taller woman will almost always
choose the skirt which Is cut so that
1t clears the ground, feeling that It Is
more comfortable and newer.
There is something new in the skirt
line and this Is the tendency TO trim
the yoke to match the shirt waist A
shirt waist made Of white embroidery
Is worn with a shirt whose woke Is
trimmed to match the waist. There
Is quite a knack in doing this Wen. and
~v0~non WhO will afIfdV this ia