The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-06-08

dAE HAGANg- NStAbA~A AA-A-N
 become the fashion to wear with white or black ties. Young girls have a charming sele- tion of commencement hats this year. The models are extremely youthful, and the quantities of flowers used in their decoration are appropriate to young faces. There is real revival of leghOrn hats, and surely there never was a better straw. They are bent and dented like other hats, and are usually l trimmed with large clusters of roses or other flowers. White wings are much used.
 4 beautiful white leghOrn hat was Idented into an informal Continental shape, with the dents filled in with | large yellow roses and green leaves On one side were two large white wings, airly poised. Another leghorn in the same shop had the crown wrea- | thed with white sweet peas, with few red roses for accent. White wings trimmed the side of the hat.
 l Grin is another popular braid, liked for it's light weight as we'll as for its daintiness. A walking hat of pale blue erin was a sort of boat-shaped tur-
 ban, built high in the back, with pale
 blue ribbon bows. A stiff bow of the ribbon on the right side of the turned up brim held two very long white wings, sharply pointed at the tips l A rich red erin hat was quite flat on | top, with the back turned up by | catchepeigne of ribbon bows. A soft | wide bow trimmed the hat directly in | front, and two short white ostrich tips
 were made to stand up back of the bow, the feathers curling gracefully forward.
 | A dish-shaped hat of pale blue erin :! was built up in the back and on one side, causing the hat to tilt towards the
 left. The cache-peigne was covered | with white ribbon, and the sole decora- tion used on the front of the hat con-
 sisted of five immense white roses
 without foliage. These were simply laid carelessly around the edge of the flat crown.
 One charming turban of rough silver gray straw was covered in the front
 with four white wings, which pointed towards the back and sides of the hat
 Where they met in front was twist of
 blue velvet. Wings trim many of the
 small turbans. The little hats are stiff
 in their. character, and need wings or
 ostrich to aid the formal lines, In the
 same manner they require a lose fluffy
 coiffure to give them the proper effect | Travelling gowns, wraps, and hats
 are much in demand just now. Mobair is a time-honored fabric for travelling
 gowns, and while buying mohair is Isometimes a risk, the goods which sell
 for even. moderate prices have been
 known to give extraordinary service.
 Mohair is a difficult material to handle,
 and tailors and dressmakers sometimes
 charge extra for making 1t up. Never
 trust a mohair to an inferior tailor.
 The skirt will sag and the sleeves twist unless skill is used in handling
 the stiff and slippery material When
 satisfactorily made, a mohair gown is a comfort. It sheds dust, refuses to wrinkle, and always looks stylish.
 Volle is not bad material for trav-
 cling. It is cool and light, should not
 crush, and sheds dust well. A charm
 ing voile in the popular black and
 white shepherds check made a pretty
 gown for a girl going to Portland. It
 was made with a skirt and blouse of
 very small box plaits, not stitched, but
 pressed fiat. The blouse was collarless,
 and showed a thin white linen collar and guimpe, the latter being mere
 suggestion, as the gown was not low
 necked. Besides the stock collar there
 was a lace-trimmed collar which fell I hn tny ne
 row bertha. This arrangement made
 for coolness, and gave the gown very
 dainty air. For the long journey the ! traveller had to carry quite a supply of fresh collars. but they took up very
 little space in her suit case.
 Although no sensible woman believes for an instant that the crinoline can ever be revived, skirts are becoming more and more spreading, and many
 of the travelling and carriage coats are
 assuming very ample proportions. Some of them were undoubtedly copied or adapted from example of the ten dency. It was somehow plaited from
 the shoulders, and was so cut that the
 skirt fiared very widely, and the whole garment gave the effect of huge bell
 The sleeves also flared at the cuffs. The bretele gown, which early in the
 season aroused admiration, has gone
 out as rapidly as it came in. The , trouble with it was that it was too easy to make, and too cheap to get up. Its cheapness really killed it. for as soor
 as a fashion becomes the rage below
 Fourteenth Street, it's doom is sealed The glimpse gown will probably not survive over the season. It also is tc easily initiated in cheap materials. Tht number of cheap guimpes and half. sleeves which are being sold in the shops makes one sad Not that ono grudges pretty things to moderate purses. The guimpes sold are merely f1imsy limitations of daintiness. Ont . wonders what unfortunate factory } I girls made them for perhaps less thar . a cent apiece. Whenever extraordinary 9 low prices are asked for any article, tht 3 lpurchaser may be certain that tht !. labor which produced them was the B prime cause of their cheapness. The
 cheaper grades of women's wrappers 3 for example, are made in filthy tene l ments for somthing like $1.35 a dozen Shirts are made for $1.49 a dozen. Lit - tie children of three years or there / ahouts thread needles and pull ou Jr CI,ilJrnI, ,,o,1r 1;444J,