Evening star., 1905-11-04

els for the light purse. The wave of Per-
sian-paw is like that of bretschwanZ (un-
born lamb. The genuine thing in this pre-
cious and tender skin in coats capes, etc,
is often combined with ermines which trims
all furs of a precious nature.
But, for genuine novelty in the fur world,
the fancy coats are without parallel for
charm and audacity of conception. The
most extraordinary effects seen are those
achieved with Persian lamb, which pelt by
itself is almost grandmotherly old. A few
examples may give some idea of the elab
crate qualities of some OF the Persian jack
cts, the smartest of which go no further
than the hips.
A coat fitted at the back and semi-loose
in front had a vest of Russian crochet in
this delicate, elusive shade. But OF the
throat and belt line of this already Won
derful vest were the daring features of the
garment-Strange ornamental pieces made
of East Indian beading in the tropical In
dian colors The flash made by these-the
heavy lace showed only at the inside Of
the sleeves-at once mounted the quiet skin
to the top notch of dressiness.
Fancy Trimmings.
Another Persian coat showed wonderfully
subtle trimming of velvet, gimps and en-
broidery in faint olives and rich whites.
Such trimmings and all others used upon
these coats of course confine themselves to
the vest, sleeves, collar, etc The mounting
Aiglon collar appeared on more than one
Persian coat upon which. no matter how
splendid the other decking, a loose black
silk braid trailed, though obviously, upon
close examination, for binding purposes.
With certain military effects which are
made by combining white, red and gold
with Persian. the Aiglon collar is very
handsome. The red used is called dragon
red, and the gilt employed with it is def
initely brass. Brass buttons, in fact, and
some of them nickel big, deck number of
the fur coats, whose first calling is osten-
sibly to be smart.
In the show case of exclusive magnif-
cence, Russian sable reigns supreme, and
very wisely the manufacturers leave this
royal skin to its own decoration. A set of
muff and tippet of the new bigness-with-
out xaggerations-called for the tritiing
sum of So 300! A ravishing hat was shown
with this the form of a clumsy Russian
looking toque, with heads and dropping
tails at the back, and underneath against
the hair blue and pink roses.
The great value set upon Russian sable
naturally limits the number of coats and
capes seen In it, but the sable turbans
launched are fairly numerous, and upon
these are lavished the rarest coquetres In
millinery In fact, any fur hat-and many
fur hats are scents only an excuse for the
subtler treatments of fashion, and glori-
ously do the more beautiful skins respond
to the dropping willow fea theirs, the strange
blue and purple roses. and the tinsel ca
mellas which nave quality almost hu-
manly romantic.
A Set in Mink
A mink set of muff, tippet and hat is
combination far more to be desired than
fur coat alone, which besides requires a
muf and hat to be complete.
But those who object TO the all-fur hat
find in the aigrette and bird-trmmed ones
becoming substitutes White aigrettes of
enormous length deck number of the
smartest hats, the bold splash going beau
tl1uily with white furs of any sort. AS to
these, though ermine scarfs and muffs are
seen with handsome street gowns they are
generally advised for evening or such
smart wear as includes an equipage.
The narrow mink and errnine scarfs OF
last season are also seen, and these will
sun be worn In mantiila fashion.
NOW little homeiy talk as to ways and
means OF making fur set of last season
display newer touches. Any Of the plain
neck scarfs can be made to express the
new fashion note If they are decked with
FUR heads, tails or additional shaped pieces
sewed on the chest points where scarfs are
now trimmed If the muff is round 1t can
De made over fiat by the furrier and even
added 10. and a modish point be obtained
by gathering the top tightly. With the
softer fur muffs the woman of fashion holds
her hand warmer in a grabby way. which
eHects this look of gathering. 1t Is often
made by ribbon or by the drop of the
mum from the neck chain or cord.
IN making over coat, especially if the
work Is done at home, a fancy model should
be chosen, for severity requires experienced
fingers in handling furs.
Fancy Coats
Charming fur coats are made In the form
OF fancy boleros, hung over little bodices
or embroidered silk or lace, finished with
wide belts. showing fur tails below Jew
eled belt buckles In elaborate designs are
dazzling feature OF these dainty coats,
which also exploit gemmed and enameled
buttons of great beauty.
Ihe most unexpected combinations OF
color also appear upon them For example,
a little fancy coat of breitschwanz funborn
lamb hung over an embroidered bodice OF
pale apple-green silk. yiolets and green
leaves showered the bodice, violet silk
forming the belt and sleeves and vest trim
mings, and with ali this was q chemisette
OF tucked net and stock and crayat OF
Russian lace
This blending together of entirely dis
similar materials Is one OF the kindest OF
the new seasons features, for Il xfveS On.
portunity to use up bits OF rich stuffs The
best results are indescribably lovely. fof
everything Is so cunningfy Joined and over.
laid that you think only OF the loom Of the
fanies. NARY DEAN.