New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1905-09-17
Paris, SEPTEMBER Z


Paris Is fun Of foreign buyers and dressmakers'
and one realizes that the moment is at hand when
the autumn and winter modes launched IN the
form OF model gowns.
or course these models cannot denote accurately
what fashionable Parisians some
months hence. but they give the couturiers ideas
on the subject. Foreign dressmakers, especially
American, seem to take these models seriously
since they go to great trouble and expense to
obtain them. and they not without interest 10
the average woman who likes TO plan her ward
robe early and be provided with one or two gowns
20 start the season.
The stereotyped remark that falls from the nps
OF nine out of ten people viewing the new mooeIs
for any coming season is that there Is nothing
new People who keep au coUrant with the
change of models never find anything new, for
fashions revolve smoothly and with no sudden
Jumps and if one is not au courant 1t Is wise u
pretend that IS The poor mooei oeS-st.-
ogten throws UP his hands in despair at this atu-
tude On the part OF his clients WHAT 90 Iley
mean by something new? Something quite Iii.-Ne
ANYTHING that has been before? In that case they
would look at it, perhaps. but certainly not Ouy
IN" According to the Paris couturiers ana lIoceI
makers the American buyers are an eXacung lol'
ALWAYS demanding something new and yet always
afraid to relinquish good old fashion that mas
7een popular in favor of uncertainty.
Perhaps the greatest difficulty facing the buyer
IS that models must be chosen long before the ne
cessitv of wearing them But the truth is that IN
being worn now at Trouville. There are some
novel conceits in the way of trimming and the
materials are changed but that is all
II would be extremely difficult TO base any crino-
line scare on the skirts exhibited. They contain
wards and Yards OF stuff and measure seven or even
eight yards about the hem, but they cut close
about the hips and really define the figure that Is
they do stand out from ii al all There are not
many shirred skirts. more are laid in peats over
the hips and the arrangement OF the pleats
IS considerable variety There are a good many
circular skirts especially in cloth and velvet. II
should be borne IN mind that for short skirt the
circular skirt is impossible. for it Is almost sure
TO sag.
There is plenty of variety in short skirts. Some
ara rleated all about and arranged in box
p!eats A pretty model has two triple box pleats,
one on each side Of the front breadth and double
pleat behind A chic skirt has tunic suggestion
that opens in front with slightly waving sides
There is little emphasis given to the short suit in
Franco The fad for the dressy short skirt cos
tune SO prominent in the spring has departed The
examples OF this style put forward now for the
autumn are simply practical walking suits
The tunic idea is prevalent, and in many cases IL
opens TO show the front apron. On the whole, the
front breadth of the skirt is conspicuous. Some
times by means of trimming and again because 1t
Is plain while the rest of the skirt is trimmed. A
novel form Of tunic is model in cinnamon col
ored cashmere, trimmed with fine black braidng
and embossed clover leaves done in black satin
The skirt hangs in loose, unstitched folds and the
tu-c is uttle below the Knees perfectly
straight 20 the side breadths at the back where it
enters the seam of the skirt. This would have
been described years ago overskirt in front
only The edge of the tunic IS hnlshed Win me
braiding; on the bottom of the skirt are TWO rows
of trimming, consisting Of the braldlng ana the
clover leaf pattern The blouse coat has the TRIM
ming over the shoulders in the form OF simulated
with the clover leaves a little below the bust.
There Is a Breton waistcoat. very modish item
now OF heavy unbleached linen, embroidered ana
fastened with small gold buttons
There are many examples or haDits among
tho present nstalTnent If tailored suits, but the
+aifors think they will be worn-how much VIII be
q matter of preference. Last winter they were
worn bv every body tail and short, fat and thin
bIt now they will probably be adopted only by
those who find the severe lines becoming.
The tendency is undoubtedly toward looser lines
and this explains the popularity Of the tunic The
little blouse coat although il is not called that and
IS spoken Of rs bolero is creeping In again, ana
there are examples Of the looser line Sleeves
TOO are a little larger than in the springer,
rather there sleeves that are larger than
those worn the spring-while some are exactly
the same shape, shirreo and manipulated into
close cuff above the elbow.
There is one rather odd thing-that is, the reap
,,earance of the draped bodice and the lace gunpe.
sere was effort 10 suppress this popular feature
- tte early summer and although it's reappear-
n,ce az Trorville noted last week il is rather
Q sI1rnrise TO find II in the winter models Naturally
he bodices are shrred and arranged differently
s-cy, those of last winter
- model in dark maroon chiffon velvet has the