Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1905-02-18
NEW YORK FASHIONS

New York, Feb. 1s.-Shoulders are
a little broader, bodices little more
nearly approach the lines of the old
wasp WASTED basque and skirts are a
little more voluminous at the hem in
the new gowns preparing for the
spring than were those turned out dur.
ing the late fall. But no startling
changes in the fashion is even hinted
at in these advance toilets. 1t is the
medium fashion that is under discus.
sion, not the radical style in which
skirts last spring reached their ulti.
mate boundaries. Great makers who
brought out, then, skirts of exaggerat-
ed fulness which were gathered, plated
or tucked without cores into waist
bands, are, as a fact, just now turning
little toward the other direction and
in their midwinter models are showing
a modification of the style. But even
the skirts that they are making now
are wider than those turned out by
the regular dressmaker.
There is no approach as yet to the
train skirt with a front in which the
wearer may walk without shutting her
feet. Skirts for several seasons have
been of the most awkward length which
could be contrived for walking, or even
moving about with ease. Toe thrusts
and side kicks to relieve the feet from
impediments have become 80 familiar
that one has ceased to think about
them or comment OH them, but such
movements are as ungainly as when
the fashion first appeared. Swathed
feet are in place in a statue or a pic.
ture which has motionless limbs, but
for the active, twentieth century wo.
man they are out of place. Fortu-
nately, bad styles as well as good ones
are banished by fckle public after
they have become too familiar, and
before many moons the good old train
skirt, becoming to all sorts and eondi-
tions Of feminine figures, may be ex-
pected to be seized upon as a novelty
or "historic revival" The laxity of
the style in the walking skirt, which
may, in fact, be any length that is
becoming and suitable to wearer and
occasion. ameliorate the situation as
regards dress-up gowns. One thing
is true of all skirts short or long,
they are so gored or otherwise manipu-
hated that there is no undue fulness
about the hips
The fashionable bodice has a waist
Zine that is distinctly tapering and
nitely. Many of the smartest bodices
are shirred in lines that run from
shoulders to waistband. Cross-over eff
fects, too, show no diminishment and
the consequent V is as much in evi-
dence where high-neck gowns congre-
gate as in the first days of the win
ter.
The surplice waist has brought out
a multitude of little fxings with which
blouses and other bodices would 9th
erwise be without character. EN-
broidered bands and ribbons bordered
at the outside with accordian plated
frills are shaped around the neck and
crossed low in the front by girls with
a gift for pretty furnishings. Some
times such bands are repeated in the
sleeve cuffs where lace edges the lower
side and the accordion plated frill the
upper. Such adjustable bodice garnish-
ments are arranged on lines that are
most becoming to their wearer, being
brought low or high on the shoulder
as best suits her figure. Girls always
like bretelles and they are 10th to give
them up for new and untried access
Ories. These, as well as the surplice
bands, are being embroidered on linen
TO accompany linen blouse suits. When
this is the case, the heavier grades of
linen in unbleach OF colors are selected.
The bands are straight or shaped and
are worked in cross-stiteh or solid
needlework in favorite tones. White
lingerie waists are the rightful attend
ants. The girdle may be of linen, like
=. -