Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-01-07
LATE WINTER STYLES
Reception Frocks Show Maid
enly Simplicity.
THE NEW WIDE SILKS
PAILETTEs CLEAN ON FRocKs,
SLIPPERS AND HAIR ORNAMENTS.
Shaded Feathers for Evening Hats, and
Lots of Other New
Ideas.
THE NEW WIDE SILKS
Evening Star by Katherine An

derson.
The post-holiday season usually finds So
cial affairs crowding thick and fast. and
the woman who thinks that her wardrobe
was equipped literally for the season finds
IL necessary to add an occasional frock
wrap or hat for the unexpected function.
: ,Mfdwinter styles for evening show two
distinct influences. Either a gown is built
from the most diaphanous fabrics on the
simplest of lines, or it goes to the other ex-
treme and joins the ranks of the period
gowns, in which case the materials employ
ed are of the heaviest and most stately
character
Among the new materials seen in dane
Ing frocks an exquistely fine dotted maline
is in high favor. Mousseline palette is
another newcomer in the line of transparent
materials and shows the influence of Sc
gums With the dotted tulle point de gaze
and the finest of thread lace are combined
"A peautiMi Dali gown was fashioned of
white dotted maline over a foundation of
pale lemon-colored supple taffetas The
underslip was itself dainty piece of work
nnlshed with a deep accordion pleating
headed by two-inch jube of white tulle
"A "A similar ruching of tulle, set off the hem
Ine oVefsklrt OF dotted maline was finished
With deep, shaped founce headed by a
nve-lnch band of point de gaze insertion
Inc pepe waist had short sleeves and the
squdIe Heck was outlined with a gallOOn
OF irish point lace, while the point de gaze
was employed as an insertion midway
through the center of the bodice
ms odd commingling of light and heavy
!ace is one of the features of the late fash
ions. Particularly is this combination notice.
able on the elaborate collars and reyers of
evening frocks, where the finest of black
thread lace and Chantilly are overlaid with
,appHques or black velvet and such heavier
laces as Irish point or guipure With a
collar thus decorated, the big, bell-shaped
sleeves will be filled in with the most
daphanous f1ounces of white chiffon mr.
gauZy lace. There is absolutely no limit
to the combinations employed upon evening
wraps.
In Peach Pink Muslin.
But to return. to the dainty evening
gown. Peach-pink mousseline palette
forms the foundation for a really stunning
reception gown intended for evening wear
The foundation is a self-ton silk of the
most supple quality, cut in empire style
Over this falls the mousseline palette
whose sequins, set in odd Arabian char
acters, are of various shades of pink ton
ing into the mousseline The frock is held
on at the shoulders by straps of finely ruch-
ed moussel1ne which also outlines the decol-
letege. The bertha is held in place by a
plaStrOn or SequlnS showing butterfly wings
and the three-quarter sleeves are merely
graduated founce of the mousseline pail
lette. The bottom of the skirt is finished
Will d SIduudleQ IOuflCS OF Self-tOne vel
vet embroidered and sequned in butter
flies In many harmonious shades of pink
Another use of the sequins shows black
chl1fon inset with medallions of lace out
nned with silver sequins. Among the
heavier fabrics in high favor may be mem
toned the colored taffetas set off with vel
vet spots or disks This is especially ef-
fective in the case of a long directoire or
Louis coat worn over a full skirt and
square necked blouse of plain silk for res
taurant or theater dress
Pompadour Silks.
Silk a yard and a half wide. woven to
initiate pompadour ribbon, is another new
conner at the counters devoted to evening
fabrics. This is especially effective for
stately robes in combination with velvet.
Brocades grow in favor and many of them
are woven in dress patterns, each gore of
the skirt a study in itself.
An Imported gown on these lines is COM
posed of rich ivory brOcade showing an ey-
qulslte design in large rose sprays. The
pattern is picked out in finest of gold thread
with crystal drops sprinkled on the flow
ers for all the world as though they were
freshly plueked from dewy beds. The pat
tern is outlined by tiny icicles done in
crystal and silver beads. The skirt is
slashed up on either side and in the front
over a petticoat of chiffon and lace, the
facing being accomplished by very soft rib
bon. The tight fitting pointed bodice has
a softly festooned bertha of lace. headed
with folded ribbon which, brought across
and around the arms, forms the little
sleeves with an additional fall of lace.
From both sleeves and bertha depend fcicles
built of the crystal and silver beads
A Dowager's Gown.
A stately gown for dowager. showing
the vogue for velvet, was built from the
most supple of black silk Lyons on robe
lines The petticoat, paneled in the front.
was of white CHI
ly over silk with an eight-inch insertion
of Irish point set off with tiny ruchings of
fine silk lace. The panel and foot of tho
velvet robe were outlined with pale blue
and white morning glories in raised en-
proldery. The plain draped bodice of the
velvet was devoid of decoration save where
a band of embroidered morning elories An
ished the short sleeves
wraps show practically the Same ex
! tremes. Inc number of fur evening coats
increases as the season advances ermine
or course leading. An imported garment
shows a peculiar combination of rOvaI az
mine FUR, with chiffon velvet and appIioues
OF white braiding beaded in steel The
coat is the long, loose sack shape. cut with
an ever-increasing fullness from the Shout
GERS TO the hem, where it hangs in very
full and ripping folds. The sleeve is an
especially good model, showing the new
sling idea carried out in the fur. and the
inner sleeve of velvet decorated with the
cut-out and beaded appliques The cuffs
and fronts are of the velvet en- suite with
the sleeve. This model can be reproduced
in the long, white silky zibelines with
black markings, combined with plain or
chiffon velvet.
Fully as effective, if not as extravagant
in price, are the evening coats in such ma
terials as mousseline or chiffon, properly
combined with Innings and garnitures Odd
bits of rare lace and gorgeous buttons set
off these comparatively inexpensive coats.
Gain in Brillliancy.
Evening hats gain in brilliancy with the
advancing season. A fad of the hour is
the picture hat which shows one color be-
meath the brim and a striking contrast
above it. A notable example is hat made
for winter bride to wear at her first the
alter party. The material is imported felt,
as soft and supple as silk The top of the
hat, including brim and soft Tam O'Shan-
ter crown is of an exquisite shade of Law
ender, while the facing of the brim in the
same supple felt is contrasting yet en-
tirely harmonious shade of pale blue The
hat is trimmed with shaded feathers tom
ing into the lavender of the felt. Shaded
feathers predominant in all evening hats,
and except at the opera the women in the
box parties are justified in retaining the
beautiful chapeaux, which are almost as
well worth studying as many Of the sea-
sons dramatic offerings.
When the hat Is removed or dainty en-
broidered silk or chiffon scarf is draped