Los Angeles herald., 1905-01-15
LTHoUGH the month of De-


~ Der may usher i'm the social sea
son, not until after the Christma'
holidays does the Season with cap
ital S really begin, nor do ball ant
large formal evening entertainments
such as call for elaborate dress, begin
AS is always the case when Easter
falls late in the spring, the winter sea-
son will this year be a long one, anc
consequently many more ball gowns
will be required than In those winters
when Lent comes early. Dressmakers
are not slow to take advantage of any
thing so greatly to their desire, and
consequently at this late date-for it is
late from the dress point of view-the
most fascinating of evening gowns are
being put forth to tempt the lovers of
dress to increase the sum total of their
expenditures for the year. Such a
charming frock and so becoming to
Madame, and so practical; perfectly
possible 10 wear III the SuhhihSi ds
we'll as this time of year."
And with such carefully turned
phrases and the beauties of the gown
displayed to every advantage, small
wonder is it that the order is given for
one. two or three more ball gowns, late
in the winter as it may seem.
Lace, chiffon; chiffon, lace; lace. sat
in, silk and velvet; velvet, silk and sat
in-the changes are rung year after
year, and yet in truth, with the differ
ent models furnished with the different
combinations in color that are used, 1t
seems incredible that the fabrics them
selves are not new, that the colors have
not been manufactured for just this
special season. Seven colors may have
been all that were included in the orig
inal rainbow; seventy times seven
seems but small estimate of the col
ors used in the winters outfit for the
fashionable woman.
1t is just trife puzzling this winter
for the average woman who wishes to
be well gowned-average be it under
stood. referring only to the question of
dress-to know what rules are to be
followed. "Sheer, transparent fabrics
are the only ones to choose" Heavy,
rich materials are by far the smartest."
"All skirts should be wide. full and
elaborately trimmed" Rather severe
lines, no trimming of any kind, the
beauty of the material being suffi-
cient" "A tight fitted waist with no
blouse effect" "A loose effect is far
the most becoming" And so it goes,
up her own mind, and, if she has good
taste, chooses the most becoming model,
even if in open defiance of the dress
makers fancy
The most marked characteristics of
this years fashions is that while the
gowns are tight fitting, the effect is of
their being loose and graceful, and
while the skirts are full they have
some semblance of fit and shape. and
the flounces give the width rather than
the material in the skirt itself 1t must
be admitted that the skirts are abnor-
mally wide around the hem, five and
even six yards not being an unusual
width. The making of the new skirts
is by no means an easy task-that is,
II the correct appearance is to be OBJ
tanned, and yet the construction is not
so serious i'm itself. To begin with. the
lining or drop skirt must be carefully
fitted; there must not be any fullness
around the hips; there must be fullness
directly in the back. 1t must fit well
and rather close to below the hips, and
then must flare becomingly. on the
drop skirt must be two or three ruffles,
or one deep accordion plated hounce,
preferably of taffeta; over this must be
a flounce of chiffon, and both chiffon
and taffeta hounoe must needs be fin-
ished with narrow but full ruching,
Second skirts for Thin Frocks
With this foundation to work upon,
The skirt stands a much better chance
Of being effective. even if made OF
cheaper material. than II made Of rich
er fabric and put over a badly hung
and fitted lining. In the gown of thin
sheer material. like gauze net or chif-
fon II is well To have a second skirt
of chiffon, that may be plain at the
top, gathered or accordion pleated. If
plain it must be finished with deep
fiounce OF chiffon. II pleated or gath
cred. then the finish of a ruching or
narrow hounce is sufficient.
All these ruffles and hounces Of chif-
fon seem unnecessary. and yet It is as
tonishing the difference they make in
the appearance OF the skirt for they
make Il wide and full around the foot
ana 81 cnnraa do not add an inch 70