The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1905-03-23

Spll1g fdEAEllESs lAcEE Was d dO-
cided purple suggestion in one of the
shades of blue and the exquisite ostrich
plume with which the turban was
trimmed was blue on the upper part
and mixed with lavender underneath.
The combination was delightful.
The small turbans are worn also for
dressy hats. A dainty model was made
of white maline covered with tiny Or
chids in pink and mauve. A small
white ostrich feather and a white
aigrette trimmed one side.
Most of the new hats are extremely
dashing. The object of the many turns
and bends into which the turned-up
brims are twisted seems to be to give
the hat the most youthful and jaunty
effect possible. So universal is this
effect, that elderly women and matrons
with quiet tastes are buying bonnets
instead of tocues and hats. Among
other dashfng shapes, the so-called coll
lar hat is conspicuous. The collar is
merely a second brim attached to the
, crown, the space between the two
brims giving an excuse for more trim
ming. Sometimes the collar is made of
tulle wired, or of roses or ribbon. A
model of this kind was in black maline
laid in regular folds on a transparent
frame. The shape was a large round.
! The collar was of white maline folded
like the brim. 1t stood fiared upward
and out. like a veritable collar. and
ended in the back under a large chou
of crushed pink and white roses.
Even the sailor shapes are made
jaunty by high bandeau in the back,
which tits the hat over the forehead.
The tip-tilted hats are the same in
daguerreotypes Of the sixties, when
enormous chignons left little space on
the head for any hat. The fashionable
sailor has a fiat brim and a wide crown.
| In some models the ribbon which
encircles the crown catches up the brim
on the back, and is continued in a
series of loops and bows in the, under
| brim. Other models have the brim
| covered with roses or other blossoms.
| Wreath or rather collars of massed
roses are used to trim the sailors. One
of this type was in natural straw, and
had a collar of tiny yellow shading to
| pun. was lo LOildS6t DuL d
green taffeta ribbon wound in and out
of the garland of roses. The same rib
bon trimmed the tilted back brim in a
series of bows.
| The spring crop of parasols is very
gay indeed. A parasol being one of the
| most becoming adjuncts of toilette,
a little extravaganza Is to be allowed.
| A great deal is called for by many of
the new ones. Paraso in fine handker-
chief linen, embroidered, and inset with
! exquisite lace, cost almost as much as
a gown, and more than some gowns.
| Very smart are the bright red, blue,
green, and violet taffeta parasoIs, with
animal heads carved on the handles.
| A red parasol has a parrot head in
| black wood, the head touched with
bright colors and the eyes bright green
glass. A blue taffeta has. the head of
! a flamingo at the end of the stick, the
long neck of the bird curving until the
beak touches the handle, forming a
| ring. Dogs heads are favorite varia-
( tions of the fashion.
| A beautiful parsol in pale blue taffeta
had a border of natural linen crash en-
broidered in French knots in pale blue.
Edging the linen was a tucked piece of
silk about two inches wide.
A charming pink parasol had a
foundation Of Powered Pompadour silk,
the lower part being composed of white
chiffon and lace with little disks of the
Pompadour silk applied Another pale
pink. parasol was made Of taffeta and
was trimmed with bowknots Of narrow
Valenciennes, with the silk cut out I'M
derneath. A white taffeta was de-
corated with a running garland of
| lavender chenille embroidery, and rib
bon and Chenille flowers, tiny roses in
pink, and yellow. ..
/ The linen parasols are new, and will
doubtless enjoy great popularity for a
practical sort. and they are; en-
broidered in very open patterns or in
padded embroidery, exactly like the
! linen gowns and wraps. The lighter
models are made like lingerie waists,
very much trimmed with lace and en-
! broidery. Few of them are lined, and,
although very pretty to look at, can
not be of much use in keeping the sun
| off. White parasols are rather ineffec-
| tive in this regard, anyway. However,
everything in linen seems to gbe the OBJ
ject Of dressing just now. The latest
thing is linen spats, to be worn with
| tailored linen gowns. These come in
white and colors. Light spats increase
/ the apparent size of the feet, and white
i linen ones will do this even more than
| soft cloth. 3'
For simple gowns there is a revival
of interest in the sailor waist. The
plated skirt and the sailor waist COM
bine exce1lently, and the two make up
an easy and yet stylish costume for
4 informal wear. A blue linen gown with
a plated skirt and a sailor blouse had
shield and broad collar of white linen.
White linen tie and belt completed the
dress. A heavy white linen crash suit
had the collar edged with green linen,
and had a green emblem embroidered
on the shield. This style of gown is
recommended for young girls.
Linen tailored suits are very manrish
and severe. The most model at present
has long coat very loose and baggy,
with revers and collar of colored
linen, blue mauve, or green.
| A novelty in linen is the three
| quarter coats Of all-over broderie
| anglaise. One of these seen recently
was belted at the waist line and was
fastened with large black velvet but