The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-12-02
THE FASHIONS
VOGUE OF GOLD AND SILVER
 TINSEL

Eel0es ot ihe Horse EoW Lace I'"Wns
 aud Evr"ing Wraps~Ihs L"Iury of
 Fur,--"me si.nple':E'a>hion.,
 The lac, gowns, black and white, n rn Il tn ,.orsv show last week, were c.s ,:aap.y a3a4, usually wi. h some s-..c aE 1T I..o.. "- b.,leco jacket effect, g. :s-.~.,- ja.- t.,.psG-Ssness was re- ..-. ! y:.'. @4~t.'tar s If pale blue or u.aa. pas:.i ah4de, in the form of sairred D,0Auots; but ordinarily the color WAS furnish,.l :se the hat or by large c,rsage :a...lsi4Ls of violels. combined with Amt. 4. II Beauty roses or spotless camelias. One does not wholly approve these flower combina- ations. 1t is true that the ordinary flor ist's bouquet of violets is an inane af- fair, the mass of blossoms used dis tracing attention from the beauty of the flowers; .but yiolets do not com bine satisfactorily with other flowers. To put VioIets and American Beauty roses together is like combining ar butus and orchids. The gardens and the camelia are too exotic to match with violets, which, although a hot house product, is of forest origin, and should never be overdressed.
 A separate chapter might be devoted to the wraps and coats worn over the evening gowns. The Emuire and Di- rectory styles ruled in the coats, and there wer many long capes and cloaks of charming design. A cloak of pink velvet, with a lowered border, was made in long, full cape, with a very long, pointed Capuchin hood reaching almost to the hem in the back. The cloak had large, rolling collar of Rus sian sable.
 A simply cut wrap of pale blue broad cloth was cape-shaped, but furnished with large cape-like sleeves. The en- tire wrap was lined with ermine, and the heavy Irish crochet collar was trimmed with two narrow bands of the fur.
 handsome cape-wrap of yellow cloth was shirred on the shoulders, and had sleeves so fashioned that they seemed part of the cape. The wrap was much longer in the back and front than on the sides. because of the sleeves, and the hem all around was bordered with a deep band of gold en- broidery. A Medici collar of Russian sable had long ends. which extneded halfway to the hem of the wrap in front.
 A few fur wraps were worn, in spite of the warm weather. A youthful olng coat of squirrel was so full as to sug- gest shirring under the cape-like col lar, but it is probable that the fur was rippled rather than shirred. The sleeves of this wrap were immense puffs, ending in deep lace ruff1es! An other long coat was made of Russian
 pony. with a large collar of mink. An ernine short coat had a collar of white fox, and the wearer carried a very large huff of the same fluffy fur.
 It was too warm to carry muffs or wear fur scarfs, but it is plain that furs are to be too luxurious for people of moderate means to buy this year. The muffs are enormous, and the small cravats have given way to ample stoles, pelerines and shawls, shaped flat boas, with long ends. Mink, sable. ermine and chinchilla are the fashion able furs, and the prices are very high. In muffs one sees many large pillow shapes, and the skins are frequently sewed together to make a fancy pat tern of the fur markings. This adds [ to the expense. A typical huff of er- mine will serve as an illustration. It was large fiat shape gathered in the fiddle at the top where a tiny ermiue head apeared The huff was solid white. the tails being arranged in a fan design below the ermine head. The huff was lined with white satin, and the openings were trimmed with ruff fles of white chiffon accordion plaited and edged with lace.
 Fur hats are decidedly fashionable 1 this year. although the season is not sufficiently advanced to warrant wear 1 ing them as yet. The gold and silver l gauza and lace so much in vogue are l used on 5hes hats with good effect. A i minx urban with a brim turned up | close to tlpe crown had a folded scarf of gold gauge between brim and crown 1 the ends crossing m one side where a 1 cluster of mink were arranged plume I fashion. Below these, placed so as to rest .onlthe hair of the waarer, was an exquisite rose of gold tissue with green satin leaves.
 J A chinchiua urban, on which silver