The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-11-11

underwaist was shirred in up and down puffs-
 Next to Irish, Cluny and Oriental lace are popular for waists. Point de Eenise with high appliqued flowers and figures, makes very elegant garments. This lace also is closely initiated. Lingerie waists in China silk, chiffon taffeta and mes saline are pretty and are most appro- priate to wear with tailored gowns. Nearly all the new waists are charact- erized by the mitten cuff reaching to the elbow. Dressy waists have elbow sleeves.
 The vogue of the elbow sleeve will probably give the fur trade boom for the mun al least will be a necessity. Two furs which have been initiated so well that even experts, it is said, are sometimes puzzled to detect the imi- tatiOn are ermine and seal. Mole is now got up to resemble seal very close ly, while rabbit is clipped and other wise treated to represent ermiRe. There is a great demand this year for white furs, eru1ine, white fox, caracul and the inexpensive mufflon, especially for even ing wraps.
 The fur-lined coat suffers no decrease of popularity. These coats are being made up in very cheap materials, and care should be exercised in selecting garments. The Things should be in- spected with particular care. An au- thority writing in the Dry Goods Eco> nOmist on the subject of these coats says:
 Advances have been made in the manufacturing of cloths which initiate such furs as breitschwanz, Astrakhan, Persian lamb, and caracal. These fur cloths are being used both here and in Paris for the construction of boleros, box and Empire coats.
 'In the popular-priced fur-lined gar ments, imitation gray squirrel is also frequently employed for the lining. This, it is considered by competent au- thOrities, will be much more satisfac- tory to the wearer than the cheap fur lining, as the fur cloth lining will wear well, while there is always a certain risk attending the use of the popular priced fur lining. Many of the cheaper skins have been in stock so long that they are tender from age, and are lia- ble to crack with the most careful use' ''
 Fur1trimmed gowns are in fashion once more, after long retirement. At present the trimming is mostly confin- ed to coats, but a few fur trimmed skirts are seen. Short-haired fur is used, the popular caracal being much in evidence. This fur is so pliable and so easily manipulated as to make it valuable for trimming purposes. Col lar, cuffs, and jacket of fur appear on some of the smartest of imported street gowns. Sometimes the skirt shows a few medallions of fur to match the jacket, but more often 1t is quite un- trimmed. Evening and reception gowns are being trimmed with sable, mink, ,er- mine and other costly furs. A Paris fashion writer describes, in letter to wholesale buyers several handsome gowns which show the tendency and offer suggestions for home dressmakers.
 "One of the most notable of these was of sulphur -colored cloth, having a narrow roll of sable around the short train. Above this the skirt was hand somely embroidered in q flower design worked out in wool, with bowknots of fur intersperced at the upper edge. Sim liar bowknots adorned the elbow sleeves, while a sable scarf was effec- lively thrown over the shoulders,
 ''The same style of fur trimming is being used upon costumes of the sheer est material as well as of chiffon velvet. Lace and chiffon gowns trimmed with a dark brown fur in the narrow bands, garlands, and bowknots are being made for ballroom use. This vogue of fur trimming does not by any means imply the less extensive use of other lines of trimmings, but, on the contrary, means, if anything a greater use of the hand somest kinds, as the fur trimming is always used Is conjunction with one or two other styles of trimming.
 Some of the handsomest evening wraps are made of the costly lace, printed mousseline de sole, or chiffon, and lined with fur. A beautiful exam pie of this new style of garment is shown in shaded gray mousseline de sole, over lining of rare chinchilla skins. This garment is in reality a large cape, the mousseline de sole be- ing draped to simulate sleeves, which