The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-03-19
Costumes Designed for the. Race Meets in and Near Paris Portend the
 Summer Modes.
A SIMPLE DESIGN FOR AFTER
 NOON WEAR


 NOON WEAR
 The lighter tints are among the newer fav0rites, and this Parisian example in primrose silk warp henrietta shows many admirable features of the newer nodes The gown Is intended to be worn without a wrap. The bodice is fashioned over n fitted lining. and has bretelles of folds of the cloth edged with a fancy gufpure braid i'll ficelle and gold. and a plastron in front with collar of broderie anglaise on creamy linen batiste. The girdle, of faille franchise of the exact shade of the henrietta, -ounds up high in the back and descends with q marked and graceful slope to the dip front, which marks the late fashions. The sleeve is a full and wrinkled gigot, with just three strap- pings of the guipnre braid at the wrist The skirt Is fashioned with tablier front, plain and unRdorned the sides deeply pleated over the hips the pieats stitched down to insure smoothness of fit Three closely pleated rows of silk ribbon serve to conceal the joinings of the circular fiounce portions, which extend from the knee downward, and make the circular flare of the skirt which shows the new length, with slight train in the back.
 A GOWN FOR THE RACES.
 One of the new shades of viofine blue
 
 foa-fnished mohair for this gown, de signed to be worn tosthe races. The little coat Is upon blouse lines, fastening close below the throat, where two stitched straps seem to draw the blouse away to display the plain vest of the cloth be- neath These straps end at the belt with handsome buttons, and this same belt. narrow one, tops the very full and rip bling basquines that end in full-ffuted point in the back. The sleeve Is a very full model, two bouffant puffs of the cloth being separated by upstaudtng cuffs, each rufied with yellowish Yalenclennes, ana the tight lower portion assuming mosquetaire wrintiings. The skirt is somewhat plain, circular in cut, and with ssitched-down pleats in front and sides. released below the hip curve to flare smartly to the foot.
 SMART AND MoDIsH TRAVELLING
 COSTUME.
 There is a delightfully."- attractive air to this simple coat and skirt costume in- tende for coaching, motoring or general travelling wear The material is q mems tweed in a very light gray, with hair line of darker tint The coat Is one of the novel wboiebaciS loose designs that, nevertheless are so cleverly cut that they more than suggest the lines or the figure in the underarm seams. There Is loose vest effect in n uoleskin gray cloth. edged and stitched in white, and this mounted with q collar effect Of the tweed well up to the dress collar in the hack, The patch pocket and the sleeve cuff are slit and faced with white, mar row velvet of the moleskin tint, making n clever contrast on the edges. The skirt ia fuIl circular in cut, with deep pieatS stitched down in panel fashion, and the fnlness further increased with the inser- tion of triangular gores of white cloth either side of the front, .eese reappear- ing in the same position :. 'e hack.
 SILK FOR THE SUi.mER PEDfcS-
 FRIENNze.
 There is nothing, except the molrairs and siciiennes, that can compare with the novel taffetas for walking and outdoor costumes generally The silks are light in weight, coo, and comfortable. and if they are, perhaps, not so lasting or dur able as are the mohairs, they at least have the merit of an ultra chic and smartness. That smart little blouse model to which the Parisienne pins her con stancy In things sartoriai Is one Of the hest of the holdover modes. In a change able tafetas rongeant of a bluish cast the blouse is deeply pleated at the shoulders, to drop Into a belt that heads smart little ripple basquine, an oblong buckle seeming to fasten the belt In the front The skirt is arranged almost upon redingote lines, two broad box pleats oc- cupying the front, and double box pleats being placed in the back. The modes are circular in cut and fitted with dart shaped tuc1s over the hips, and falling in full folds from there. The gown is cut to clear the ground all around and display just the tip Of the shiny black leather shoe.
 NOVEL DESIGN FOR SILKEN
 GOWN.
 That this is to be a silken summer there is not the yestige of doubt. The new weaves show unobtrusiye and dull plaid patterns, with coin spots, polkadots and discs of various sizes scattered in a hit or-mss pattern over the plaided surface. The model illustrated Is in the new shade of bronze green, a small check being crossed with satin plaid of q darker tint, and the whole showing a velvet disc in the deepest tint of this coioring scat tered at close intervals. The bodice is extremely simple, showing modified blouse lines all around, and with the fashionable deep dip at the front There is a lingerie vest and collar inserted, the broad shoulder is pleated and made to ex- tend over the sleeve by means of piped straps, these stifrened with princess haircloth, rather than with canvas, so that they do not crush when coat or wrap is drawn on over the gown. The sleeve is double puff, each having a ruffle of haircloth on the lining, and a plain tight sleeve appears below the elbow, finished with a scaIoping at the hand The skirt is somewhat intricate in design pleated gores being cut short at irregular intervals to admit shirred founce effects, piped strapplngs beading each such insertion. The smooth fit over the hip is apparent, and the width at the hem is well over 10 yards.