Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-11-12
PARIS FASHIONS


| Special Correspondence of The. Star. - =
PARIS, October. % 1905.
Il CTOMOBILE enthusasts-and they
~ include nearly everybody in smart
"A society-are charmed with the re-
u suit of the American races which
brings the Vanderbilt challenge
| cup to France. Talking of autos reminds
me how twentieth century people like
| to think and be told that we are living at
| killing pace and that the strain of mod
| ern existence is terrific. But how much OF
! this gush is really genuine! Take, for ex-
| ample, the life of the average man of bust
ness. His working hours are not long
| they used to be-he has more Injuries he
| lives more in the open air. has twice as
! many holidays, while hundred and one
! appliances are at his command for getting
him through his affairs with ease and dis
| patch.
But the twentieth century social butterfly,
| what of her? She has in her own estima-
| ton even harder road to travel than the
men. The strain of her existence is such
| that she often thinks well of herself that
she stands it at all. When this strain be-
comes exceptionally seyere-the marrying
off of a daughter or the first winter in so
| clety or debutante-a specialist who
makes his living by administering rest
cures 10 the leisure class, is called in to
| prescribe pleasant change. The fact is
| these women really do not know what
| strain is, for there is no conceivable form
of occupation which more successfully OBJ
Viates effort than the continuous keeping of
| trivial engagements in which these butter
| flies pass their lives.
Little trouble is involved in getting from
one place TO the other Little or nothing
| Is. demanded of them when they get there,
| the labor of conversation being in a great
| degree relieved by the paid entertainer To
| rise in the morning with every hour mapped
| out, to go from shop to shop from lunch
| with one friend to tea with another, from
| restaurant dinner to the theater or dance
| Is to bury the inSistent self which is the
| center of real existence from all oppor-
! tunity of asserting itself The real prob
lens OF life are unable to make themselves
| felt and. as it is, these problems which
! tend TO make people uncomfortable the
popularity of modern rapid living which
by the way. is as old as Socrates, is not far
10 seek Real friendship, which cannot
| exist without effort, dies from hamilton
Literature. art, music and nature obtrude
! merely as backgrounds to social ENTERPRISE
| Such interests make demands on time and
! energy, and these SO called overstrained in
dlVlduals have neither of these to snare
Gradually for want of the ordinary strain
necessary to the maintenance of health
the power of initiative undergoes q kind of
| atrophy Then when demand comes upon
the dlfficulties long disused the poor things
| break down
Rest curen exclaimed celebrated doc
| tof nat these patients need is gradual
| exercise in bearing strain to learn. in plain
| life
Pardon, madame. I know 1 am writing
| sermon rather than sartorial news
instead of taking heed for themselves
mentally most of these mondaines at the
present moment are putting on their backs
luxurious furs or at least spending happy
hours purchasing peIts. And the winter
furs are lovely enough to tempt a hermit
| 1hefe are no new sensational skins such
as we mad last year. but all the conserva-
tive old favorftes are made up in the smart
| est new modes and take on an added
grace. Velvet plays it's part on fur gar
ments, together with handsome buttons and
gold braid. The sleeves of some of the
coats recall the grace of apparel of Vepe-
| tan medieval danes, the full upper part
| descending into Deep tight cuff of alter
nate bands of lace and velvet. There are
| stunning little fur boleros and some of the
| short coats have in the center OF the back
| round flap of small dimension that gives
| a basque suggestion.
A stunning coat ordered by Partisan
| of distinction is broadtail jacket made
| somewhat on the lines of Russian blouse
| with an exquisitely wrought vest of
| crushed raspberry velvet and tiny turnover
| collar of the same. Over the high folded
belt of black satin embroidered velvet
| tabs forming short basque effect. These
| tabs also trim the bodice of the blouse.
| The three-quarter sleeves finish with en-
| broidered velvet bands and plated lace
| frills
The muffs which find our warmest APP
probation now that the elbow sleeve in
sists upon appearing in all its cold at
! traction upon the coats of the season, are
| of the form that was worn in the early
nineteenth century, very long and not very
deep. In those days short sleeves were
popular, and the wearer could, If desired.
| cover the to the elbow. The new
| muffs are soft, the lining having very
| little stiffness and many models are
| n M ltp
| In muffdem is the semi-circular shape with
| a sort of envelope flap. These muffs are
| bordered with tail fringes alternating with
| paws, sometimes are trimmed with
| single large tail In front.
/ The long capes of sable and less aris-
| tocratic furs are gorgeous with their lin
| ing of ermine or heavy white satin But
| for morning wear nothing Is in better taste
| than the long fiat searfs slightly rounded to
fit the neck and flung in carefully careless
fashion about the shoulders. Parisians
| will wear for their mornings in the Bots
| natty little Persian lamb coats that fit
| the figure perfectly. These trimmed
/ with a narrow band of sable and double
/ row of buttons. These coates certainly
| show to advantage svelte figure
| White furs are to be very fashionable,
| especially fox and ermine, and with these
| 1t is much smarter to wear one of the new
| white feather toques than errnine head
/ gear. But stunning little toques are made
| royal pelt. a tiny skin of which costs often
/ hundred dollars. There Is no trimming
! ON these toques save twist of tule and
| some kind of fragile flower such as an
orchid, a gardenia or small bunch of
! Christmas roses at the side.
For some years artists have been loud
| In their complaint of the drabness" of
| women's dress. our tastes having run to
4 the severe and nondescrpt In colorIng
rather than to the gay and brilliant This
| winter the artists and designers are happy.
for there is nothing negative or anaernfc
about the colorings. Indeed a gathering
of fashonably dressed women has much
| the appearance OF a tropical Jungle The
shade beloved of Parisians just now is a
vivid crushed raspberry. In velvet this