The Cook County herald., 1905-12-30

Ium0 resorts Dr1Q8 OUT no end OF STUN
ming suits straight from Partisan tai
lors. Exquisite in the rich tones OF
falling leaves and changing shrubbery,
echoes of these smart garments reach
Miladi who has returned to city life
and rouse her to the realization that
fall aud fashions are once more at
hand. ,4
The tailored suit is of first consider
alton in the wardrobe, and it is the
gown above all others which deter
mines a woman't smart appearance.
Other frocks may be unsatisfactory or
even fail to materialize because of
Tightening pursestrings. but a well
fitted, up-to-date coat and skirt make
q woman feel that she is properly
dressed for any and all occasions.
Just at present details of this all
important costume are what most con-
Germ the feminine world. What is to
be the length of the coat? Are the
Eskirts to remain at a comfortable walk
ing length, and is the short sleeve to
be retired for fall wear? First fash
ion breezes from Paris have settled
many of these questions.
The coat for the tailored suit will
take one of two extremes. 1t will be
either very short or very long on red
ingote lines. Boleros with fancy vests
will be worn much in the early fall
days, but the woman who is choosing
her suit to last all winter should select
a snug-fitting jacket finished with
either position back or rippling pep
lum, or with skirt attached which
reaches to the ankles. Position tails
are decidedly in evidence on the latest
models. Fitted girdles seen on last
seasons coats extend below the short
jacket and give the long-waisted effect
SO much sought after.
Stunning as is the redingote on a
stately figure, the majority of women
should think twice before selecting
one. They will be especially trying
this fall because of the extra fullness
in the skirt. Two models stand out
nOticeably as being fashioned on the
approved lines. One is princess effect
with bolero outlined in braid. and the
other bears the stamp of the sum.
mers silk redingote. From the bust
line it is shaped snugly to the figure
by inverted plaits which open out just
below the hips into a very full skirt.
7 The style of the sleeve is no less
pronounced than the coat which it
finishes. Leg-o'-mutton effects, plait.
ed and tucked and strapped to do
away with any extra fullness, are un.
questionably the sleeves for the tai.
lored coat. For everyday wear jack.
cts show tight-ittting cuff from el.
bow to wrist, built as snugly as the
undersleeve will allow. Elbow sleeves
are worn with the more dressy style
of coat, although the plain jacket has
a simulated short sleeve, ending in a
tight cuff.
Trim Skirts.
In the matter Of skirts the very
much plated jupe has by no means
gone out Of favor. Short skirts par
ticularly display plated effects, many
of them being stitched down half way
to the knees, while others are pressed
in stiff box plaits quite to the edge OF
the skirt. All are shaped snugly
around the hips and have no sign OF
any opening at the back. There is no
doubt, however, that the very smart.
est skirts are cut on circular lines and
rest slightly on the floor. Carefully
fitted darts shape them tightly in at
the waist line and they are finished at
the back with side plaits, closing down
the front or at the side of the front
in seam concealed beneath straps or
plaits. The double flounce skirt has, a
place also in winter fashions, but like
the redingote 1t Is distinctly for the
tall woman. Finished in deep scallops
the upper flounce reaches almost to
the hem Of full underfounce and
Stimulates a tunic.
Two Of the most popular materials
for the first of the season will be
heavy, rough pongees and English mo-
hairs. Broadcloth is more silky than
ever in weaves as supple as liberty
satin. In fact, all the new materials
are so soft and pliable that they are
spoken of under their own name, pre-
ceded by the word chiffon. Chiffon
velours is the velvet for the winter
and it partakes of the suppleness and
pliability of the broadcloth. The girl
of moderate income, however should
choose a good quality of velveteen
rather than the more expensive and
less durable velours. Serges, cheviots
and Irish frieze are rough in texture
and appear in unprtentious plaids and
checks in two tones
Browns, especially thrush and Gin
namOn brown, will be favorite colors
Gray continues its vogue of the spring
and the rich shades of mahogany and
fushia red will be worn by women
whose dresses are not intended TO,
more than one season.
An imported suit of cheyiot in light
mahogany embraces many of the dis
!: tinctive features of the smart coat ant
skirt. The double skirt has tight
fitting us2ic overskirt which falls ST,
inches above the hem of the unde,
! nounce. This tunic opens down the
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