Arizona republican., 1905-10-12

and Tram" shapes, toques and shop binders shapes
 THE BRIMS
 straight or curved, or turned up at any imaginable angle. have much trim ming underneath, which consists of masses of flowers, ostrich tips, soft ribbons or draperies of net, chiffon or lace, and arranged with a grace pos sible only to the expert hand, flowing ends often falling over the shoulder. There are many large shapes covered with velvet, but felts and beavers with velvet facings or binding are also us ! ed for dressy wear. Cloth of gold and cloth Of silver, of the light. semi-sheer variety are frequently employed in folds, pipings or loops, and spRngles, gold, silver jet and colors in very handsome embroidered effects.
 BROADCLOTH
 ] is t1e material of special interest this ! season and has been advanced by Fashion to a position of supreme inn portance. which is partly due to it's exceptional beauty of finish and ex- tremely light weight. These charac- 1 teristics have not only helped to give distinction to these goods, but have increased the breadth of their scope, making them as easy to manipulate III all of the required modish effects of the ! season as a silk or etamine. Their wonderful possibilities in garments of every type for both day or evening wear are fully recognized by the lead l ing tailOrs and dressmakers, which fact l is exemplified at the autumn openings 1 of gowns, cloaks and costumes by rep 1 Iresentative houses.
 THE COLORS.
 1 The window display made by Lord ] S. Taylor for one week, was devoted entirely to broadcloth. This not only gave evidence of the certainty of it's wide spread distribution in circles of ! the well dressed, but the prominence given to a variety of shades in two or 1 three cOlors, settled the question of their leadership in the season in ad- vent The principal window was de- voted entirely to the purple shades 1 from the darkest plum to the wis, ,eria dhala and orchid shades; in another l the popular greens were grouped olives, resedas, and the myrtle shades, the third contained Q variety of nues, ! supposed to be those of popular pre- ] ference, in which the bluish Pinks, the new red browns, the biscuit shades and mastic yellOws, whites and other pastel favorites were noticeable.
 IN NEW SILKS.
 the satin and taffeta brOcades In black as well as colors on pale hued or white grounds seem to be multiplying con stantly. Satin surfaces are again to the fore, the newest silk however, is the chiffon duchess mousseIine with 2 the softness of the original, but deci- i dedly more body, and the brilliant tus- i tre of the Old-time satin duchess. It is used for gowns and trimming pur- l poses as well. Cuffs, collars and other 1 accessories for gowns of cashmere, ! brOadclOth or other soft WOOlens are made of satin. and it is also used for l the popular, wide girdles, for trimming gowns and waists of pIaided silk or poplin, and some of the handsomest ! evening coats are of cream or pale tinted satin.
 ILLUSTRATION.
 Thanks are due the Mccall Co., makers and designers of fashion for illustration of handsome waist shown above.
 SEPARATE COATS AND CLOAKs.
 Not in the memory of the oldest de- | vOtee of fashion, has there been a l greater variety of modish coat and cloak shapes. The empire is unques- ! tionably the leading one, and the three quarter length is chosen for street wear. The modified empire evening l cloak seems to have taken the world ! of fashion by storm. For this purpose it is quite long and the sleeves wide and full, though sometimes the eI- bow sleeve appears. The materials are chiffon broadcIoth, velvet or rich bro- cade, and embroidery or e-mine trims the neck and revers
 ROSALIND MAY.