The sun., 1905-12-31

puttoIib dIo IbkuIuSh Oil OAuOAhO as SND'N
and have not generally been adopted.
The tails OF the dress coat are this year
longer than they have been In some time
and should end at about the back OF the
knee. The lapels are notched and covered
down to the end with silk. They are broad
at the top. measuring about ~ inches at
their greatest breadth and about one inch
at the bottom Of the collar.
The shoulders are only moderately pad
ded and the coat Is kept throughout free
from any lining that might make it un-
wieldy
A dress coat must At we'll in to the
waist. However loose the style Of wearing
other coats may be, 1t is considered the
best form to have dress coat cut in to the
figure.
The tails at the bottom should not he
more than four inches across. The two
buttons on the bottom of the coat are three
inches apart.
A sewed on cuff with three small buttons
with the holes made 30 that they really open
is the usual finish for the sleeves. No braid
of any kind appears on the coat, although
the black waistcoat is usually finished with
the same braid used along the stripe OF the
trousers.
with three or four buttons and are moder-
ately V shaped black waistooat is all
but useless, however, for any save dinner
jacket.
The white .waistcoat to accompany this
coat is made with three or four small white
buttons il single breasted, and cut rather
with a point than in the shape, and lthe
ends are long and pointed. The collar is
narrow.
There are many varieties Of the white
waistcoat however, and the single breasted
are perhaps the most popular just at the
moment. Some are made with only two
buttons and cut with a point. One style
shows no buttons at all, the fastenings
being hidden under lapel.
Shirts are sometimes made in pique to
match the material of the wastooat. The
most careful dressers always see that they
have the same whites. That is to say, they
have either blue or cream tint predomi-
mating in shirt bosom, waistooat and tie
1t is necessary to secure the cooperation
of ones laundress, however, to accomplish
this artistic result.
Buttons for the waistcoat usually match
the studs. Thus for pearl studs which are
always the smartest that can be worn. there
should be mother Of pearl buttons made in
the form Of regular white china buttons for
use. In the holes on the button there are
often little cords Of gold or silver. Even
small diamonds are admissible.
For men who do not wear pearl studs, the
mother Of pearl buttons with the little dia-
monds or the cords of gold or silver are
good style The cuff buttons must, of
course, match them. The same sets of but
tons are used with turquoise. sapphires,
rlbies and emeralds, but this phase of
mems iewelry is too extensive to be dealt
with casually.
The trousers for the dress suit are cut
moderately broad. fit more closely around
the ankle, and are finished with braid on the
outside seam. There are many varieties of
this braid ranging from simple band to
very complicated effects interlaced and
crossed.
The more elaborate braids are smarter
now for the dress suit trousers as well as
for the dinner suit. Trousers for dress
wear should never have a decided crease
down the front. The style of ironing a
rigid crease down the front Of the trousers
has disappeared for all kinds of trousers
worn by we'll dressed men. 1t never be-
onged to dress suit
There is only one style of foot gear proper
for evening dress, although other kinds
are worn. This is a pump made in patent
leather which is most modish when it
is worn with black silk socks.
Men wear what are commonly called
low quarter shoes in patent leather, and
buttoned shoes of the same kind. They
also wear pumps with other kinds of silk
socks than black But that does not pre-
vent the very best style from using black
silk socks and patent leather pumps.
For wear at the opera and theatre these
shoes are made with heavy soles, For
dancers the soles are Of paper weight The
style of the shoe is the same in both cases.
White glace gloves, with black stitch
ing on the back done in three heavy lines.
have again been worn this winter after
more than decade Of disuse. Thin white
stitching is more dressy, and for outside
wear the heavy white gloves, thick and
durable as dogskin, are still the more