Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-11-18

flare at the bottom gave gOdet fall which
was helped out by shaped dounce and
circular side bTeadthS, these last being put
in with a strapped seam over the hips.
This seam, running down each side of the
back, inclosed the rear breadth in a narrow
graceful panel. The way in which the wide.
lesson in brilliant dressmaking. The bias
top was simply turned under, and the
founce put on with stitching which left
half-inch heading.
Things to Know.
Dressmakers' wrinkles with various of the
new textures may give the observant home
sewer many ideas. Frequently to get a soft
fall of a cloth skirt around the feet a
dress everywhere else showing heavy ma
chine stitching will have hem scarcely
more than basted up by hand And If such
a dress has lace bodice some part of this
lace will be cut out to introduce a fragment
OF the skirt material, or, maybe, velvet In
Slightly deeper tint This gives the neces.
sary sequence between bodice and skirt
without which waist in one material and
a skirt IN another will never seem COM
pete.
The most delightful of the new sleeves
are Of smaIlness which gives a slim, trim
look, though some OF the Wrist-length mod
els are completely gathered over the arm
Inc lace stocks and chemisetttes are light
~ lined with chiffon or mousseIine and the
stock itself cannot present a stylish ap-
pearance without a high cut.
Continuing the puff elbow sleeves in dressy
waists waists there are sometimes long forearm
down over the hand like mitts.
Pretty Stitches.
The chemisette and undersleeve fixing
which goes with It is the most charming
feature Of all of the daintiest waists Lace.
baiste, mousseline, chiffon, etc, are the
materials Of rbaSa OH
even the simplest may have several tex
lures blended together by complicated
stitcheries
coming down to practical waists pre-
sumably those on the shirt waist order
such as are for hard use, still present many
Of the aspects of former seasons The drop
at the front is not perceptible any more, or
1t Is so slight as to be scarcely noticeable.
the lingerie species of waists calling for
skirts little fxier than the palmer shirts
straight linen collar, or pique stock with
narrow tie of the shirt material Ia the
smartest neck finish for the more rnannish
shirt waists.
Elements in smart dress of s,rpassine
importance are the various neck fixings
which are used to embellish the smartest
gowns. The little tulle ruches of the sum-
mer are still affected especially about hotel
corridors or other places where hats are
worn and no heavier wraps needed Bur
aside from the lovely imported shoulder
scarts, which as yet are only here as for
eign eXquislteS, the feather boas are Ger.
tainy the most wonderful and beautifv1ng
of these shoulder and neck mutiiings
Loveliest of All.
The marabout scarfs which are wide
and as soft as swansdown are the loverest
ofall. With the white marabout is sometimes
introduced a light powdering OF brown or
gray, which is most lovely. High pillow
muffs often go with these neck scarfs, the
set forming part of an evening get-up or
similar fairylike beauty.
For example, a gown of white lace ana
blue chiffon, the two materials embroidered
at the juncture so as to seem woven, was
topped by a white marabout set tiecked
with pale blue. The hat for this ravishing
costume was of white guipure, with round
velvet crown and great pink camellia NJ
the left.
The boa and muff sets in curled ostrich
are also very effective. but not so much so
as those of marabout Sometimes mara
bout set follows the lines of the most eIab-
crate fur ones the bottom and stole ends
of a cape showing dangling tails, etc. a
coquettish feature with the stole is some
times big pink rose placed carelessly with
its leaves and stem at the left side.
These delicate downy feathers are ex-
quisitely feminine in quality and soften1ng
TO those who are least blessed with beauty