Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-08
PARIS FASHIONS

| * AMID T k1o111oNo Y
sss x X 4 4 = * x x & 4:
PARIS, September 23-I wonder whether
you have ever been to La Perouse? II
you know your Paris well you certainly
| have taken dinner or luncheon at this
historic old restaurant the Quai des
| Grande Augustins, near the Pont Neuf.
Like all the old-established cafes of the
gay capital, La Perouse has its history.
Nine Pompadour and Louis XIV are said
to have dined there incognito. Today this
| establishment can boast of a clientele not
to be met in any other rival house. Stu
| ated near the l. Ecole des Beaux Arts. the
student who has the good fortune to be-
come Prfx de Rome generally celebrates
| this great event at La Perouse Famous
painters, musicians and sculptors, many of
| them dead and gone and others old and
1 gray have with the blush of youth stam-
| mered out there their thanks for f1attering
| toasts on the eve of their departure for
| the Villa Medici In the eternal city. At
| La Perouse everything Is simple and plain.
| There are no tables covered with flowers.
! AS to the noisy band, If you were to hint
| at the. absence of such thing the pro-
| prietor would look at you In surprise and
| tell you that he thought you preferred to
eat your dinner in peace, and before the
! second course is served you will agree
with him, when it dawns upon you that
|
masterpieces of culinary art set before you,
| and you lift up your voice in thanksgiving
| that the world holds chefs and mattress
d'hotel like those at La Perouse.
| When lunchng there the other day the
| peace of the restaurant was disturbed by
| the entrance Of a party of smart society
| women and their train of male attend
ants. They hurried over their luncheon,
and the stranger, catching sight of the
ladies' opera glasses, wonders for what
playhouse the elegant crowd Is bent. The
| true Partisan knows what is in the wind
Land that they are on their way to one
! of the nearby law courts to attend a sensa-
| tional trial.
/ All of the mondaines were .exquisitely
| gowned It was not their clothes to which
one was first attracted, but to the new
| figure all seemed to have acquired. Upon
a search for Information in authoritative
| quarters / discovered that the Langtry cor
| set which all smart women are beginning
4 to adopt, was responsible for the revoIu
zion. A Rue de la Paix corsetiere ex-
planned that there was nothing new about
| these corsets as they were cut on the
model originated and always worn by the
/ famous beauty, the Jersey Lily. This model
does not give the straight front effect, but
rather defines the waist perfectly and is
| worn tightly laced. 1t has a high bust
| and long abdominal length. 1t is this
corset and this style of figure that will
again be in fashion this winter. All the
| new bodices are made with fitted founda-
| tions having many seams and carefully
| boned but the material draped over this
| lining must At every curve. Shoulder ef-
| fects are broad. but the excessive fullness
| brought about by shirring and tucking of
| fabric across the chest and at the waist
| line is de mode The smartest waists, ex-
| cept the separate blouse. are worn outside
the skirt and finish with a bias fold of
satin or velvet. They are pointed in front,
If the figure can stand it. In other words,
the silhouette to be aimed at Is round,
well defined waist, high bust and small
hips. If these sartorial requisites are OBJ
49, fo oil
whether one wears long or short coat
and plain or plated skirt.
There is secret, known only to fay-
ored few here at the capital, that one of
the leading Partisan houses intends to
bring out model of severely cut princess
gown with perfectly tight fitting sleeve.
admitting only Of comfortable fullness at
the top of the arm. This mode will in all
probability be adopted by many fair Paris
iennes who are proud of their good lines,
and certainly no style can show pretty
figure to better advantage than a correctly
cut princess robe
To revert to the subject of a sleeve. they
do not droop anywhere. not even at the
cuff and when decorated in puffs, tucks
or shifring are closely fitted to the arm.
1t is an absurd fashion, but elbow sleeves
will be worn all winter on coats and gowns
that are not intended for actual everyday
service. Paquin is insisting upon the three
quarter length of manche, than which none
is more awkward or unbecoming to the
arm.
Il
x
Umbrella skirts made with a number of
cores shaped almost to a point at the
waist line are accepted models Of the sea-
son. These cloth jupes have their seams
stitched twice and pressed fiat. When
made Of thin material the cores are often
put together with lace or ribbon. There
Is no doubt about the popularity Of the
circular skirt, and although the sall-round
plated effect is no more, groups of plaits
and plaits on seams starting from the |
waist or from deep yoke are still smart. |
Whatever the skirt decorations used, there
must be a close. tight effect about the |
hips and great flare at the foot line. |
This Is modishly imperative. None OF the /
new skirts is lined, and they depend for !
their proper hang and froufrou at the bot |
tom upon the silk petticoat worn under |
Them.
Skirts, as rule, are severely plain, even |
ing jupes even conforming to this mandate. |
When trimmed at all the ornamentaton is |
confined to the foot line and takes the |
form of cut out applications of cloth OF |
harmonizing or contrasting tone under the |
skirt material, which Is cut away to show
the design. This adornment is much |
smarter than brafding. but the latter is
much employed.
As TO the materials that go into the maxi
ing Of the winter gown. broadcloth of the |
localized soft and plia11e finish which has |
been brought to perfection by the manufac-
1t comes in all the new shades. exquisite /
tones OF plum. deep rich puppies and charm
ing greers. toning from hunters to an olive /
and a light shade OF covert which bids fair |
to be very exclusive and stunning. Gray l
covert cloth. shade beloved OF English
women. clear stone gray. Is also fash
ionable color In cloth for coat and skirt
frocks. The new herringDone suitings are i
stunning especially those In gray tones.
voiles are still in high favor In both heavy I
and light meshes and mohairs havs taken
a renewed lease OF life for shirt waist |
suits Although chanEeable effects Ia cloth