The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-05-11

Of the really up to date silk gowns.
IN the summer silk srccks the most
daring tones are used. Dahlias shade
IN which pink, red and mauve are min
gled, is quite new. Other novel tints
are cigale, green lizard, Caspian green
and a pretty purplish lavender. In
pinks there are the loveliest old rose
shades and those bright rose tints
somewhat daring in their strength, yet
elegant, such as jacqueminot and rose
tendre.
Many OF the foulard gowns have the
dearest little silk capes falling in
handkerchief points adorned with
strappings of cloth. If the dress is
trimmed with a cut out design this
form of ornamentation is carried out
on the wrap. Made up in light colors
these little capes will be very popular
this summer as additional wraps over
thin gowns. They are. too, evolved in
/ lace over a silk lining and trimmed
4 with ruff1es and incrustations of den
/ teIe and ruched out quillings of silk.
They are extremely full, the sleeves
and body of the wrap being impossible
4 to dissociate. In fact, there are no ac-
tual sleeves, merely pretty fullness
over the arms.
That this is to be a silk summer is a
foregone conclusion. The most attrac-
saw at g smart establishment the
other day some dresses which were
| quite within the province of the small
dressmaker OF skillful home amateur.
The dress which attracted me most was
a soft, changeable blue and orange tat
/ feta. The skirt had two four-inch tucks
around it, the first one commencing at
the knee and the second several inches
above. The skirt was then laid in very
top of the first tuck. The waist, built
on the simple shirt waist plan, was
laid in four outward turning plaits at
the Shoulder and stitched in graduated
lengths above the bust line. These fell
in place at the waist and then bloused
slightly over the suede belt. A button
trimmed strap of the silk fastened over
a vest of embroidered muslin, and a
becoming knotted silk tie of deep or
ange about the neck completed the
gown. The new bishop sleeves were
finished with three stitched straps on
the cuffs.
Another fetching suit is of bleu Ia
wand taffeta. The skirt has deep bands
of cream canvas set in between narrow
stitched bands of the silk and the en-
tire jupe is laid in box pIafts, beginning
in the center of the front width The
bloused bodice has wide bands of tbs
canvas on each side Of the v shaped
opening, which is filed in with chem
isette of tucked null and rows of tiny
lace. The moderately large puffe6
sleeve ends just above the elbow with
a band of canvas over a wrinkled cuff
of null. A champagne checked tat
feta barred off with cinnamon brown
makes a smart shirt waist dress, par
ticu1arly when the skirt has a closely
fitting gored upper part and is then at
tached to a gathered ruffie which hangs
to the bottom Of the skirt, where a deer
hem is turned UP on the right side an6
piped with brown velvet.
The bodice is rather complicated tt
describe, although in effect simple Il
is gathered on the shoulders out to the
arms eyes, and the fuIlness is drawn
down to the waist. over what in ole
fashioned bodices were dart lines this
modern waist has a stitched piece OF
silk rounded at the top and held by g
button and a blind buttonhole. These
blind buttonhoIes appear on each side
of a velvet facing under a braided turn
over collar and revers which fit about
an empieeement of white pique. The
pique, in turn, outlines a soft high col
lar Of all over embroidery. The sleeves
have high gauntlet cuffs.
CATHERINE TALBOT.