New-York tribune., 1905-06-04

| tar0 green This shade is called 81 GelIllaiI'
and is beautiful. although one must get fright
fully tired Of 1t after few wearings Another
use of cloth in this shade a chic Directoire
coat simply made. 1t shirred once under
the bust with broad box pleat running up the
middle of the back. The front pieces above the
shirrings were double breasted, with pointed
revers and trimmed with four large gold but
tons
There were several handsome wraps of white
wool, heavy ribbed stuffs and basket weaving.
These stuffs seem modish than white cloth.
and there were several costumes. too. mace OF
heavy lainage; not heavy as that USED III
cloaks and wraps. but much on the same ORDER
Paris is really putting on its summer look.
The terrace at the Hotel Ritz is crowded every
afternoon with gayly dressed throng People
fx, off in automobiles to ST. Germain and YER
sailIas for luncheon and the crowded restau-
rants both in town and in the Bois, suggest the
idea that no one is dining at home. ..-.,,oua
The standard of gowns for restaurant oillIleLS
seems to be increasing in the direction OF elan-
orateness and expense. Yet 1t retains cefta
character quite removed from that of a con-
vantionai evening gown An example is a tussor
silk that is. the silk is used as Iouaoatloli
for figures of yellow Irish lace, but there is more
lace than silk in the gown. Trimming the sllrI
are rosettes OF cherry mousseline de- sole. with
black button centres. and small ealuoh Oh
these is used on the blouse There IN'@ cnoher ~
and small guimpe of tucked white SILK gauze
trimmed down the front with Ave tiny ooWs OF
hlacl- satin
An odd example of the corselet gown is of
white cloth The skirt forms the corselet, end
ing just under the bust and the bolero is shtrred
at the bottom. where it meets the corsslet, and
across the shoulders. 1t turns away IN reVerS
to show a lingerie underblouse The revers and
the bottom of the skirt trimmed with wide
white braid embroidered in rather a rough
pattern done In green and red woods. AS the
gown was worn It was impossible to where
either the skirt or bolero fastened
DRESDEN RIBBONS.
Ribbon forms one of the important items i'll
trimming now, and the plain ribbons as
effective fancy stuffs are the Dresden
ribbons voiles and plain muslins. An illus
tration Of the former idea is in silk gauze,
printed In Pompadour pattern and trimmed
with lot of soft pink ribbon. The same idea
could be carried out in inexpensive iowered
muslin. There are double skirts, with the tunic
slashed on side to above the knees, and
both skirts finished with plain band of
pink ribbon On the upper skirt the ribbon is
used again. shfrred and sewed on both edges,
TO form bow knot pattern, which finishes with
one large. double knot just above the slashing.
The bodice has bertha headed by the shfrred
ribbon and finished with a plain band. and this
frames yoke Of lingerie and lace
Smart women are wearing large tulle neck
ruches. They seem larger than any previously
wor1 hut this may be due to the contrast of the
small hats. These ruches are sometimes white.
but often black. and are always so fresh
to give an idea of having been worn be
immense vogue, and tinted gloves another
fad. Aigrettes are growing in favor as they are
growing in size, and they are considered good
style on hats of erin and straw. There are a
few floating wells, but they are not to be recon-
mended now unless of real lace and with SONS
novel or personal idea in the drapery.
The most interesting models shown at the
dressmakers' are the linen and cotton toile cos
tunes. There is great variety of styles, rang
ing from severe redingotes over long skirts 20
the most coquettish little floating boleros and
short skirts y black and white checked linen
has a long skirt trimmed with two rows of heavy
white cotton braid and the corners Of the redin-
cote Ornamented with motif done in the same
braid. The redingote is long and cut to open
well in front. There is . draped waistcoat, or
rather, a crossed waistcoat of lowered cretonne
trimmed about the top with q design worked III
black and red On the sides of the redingote
are four large pearl buttons. The sleeves are q
small gigot in shape and untrimmed This is
worn with blaclS-satin stock and straight col
lar.
A good many of the linen gowns show a touch
OF black satin often used frame con-
trast TO some brighter trimming. A blue linen
made I'd in the Directoire skirt and jacket FORM
that is, with short jacket with the skirts
starting just under the bust; mas the pointed
arnples could be quoted of the use of silk and
satin on linen costumes.
There are some handsome examples of silk
redngotes worn with lace skirts, but it is more
fashionable to reverse the OF the fabrics,
using the lace for the top and the silk for the
skirt A skirt Of oid-fashioned green taffeta has
no trimming save q band OF green velvet at the
hem. Over this is tunic Of green mousseline
de sole heavily inset with cream coored lace.
On the revers and down the front the lace is
embroidered with shades of green and the gar
nent is laced across the bust with green ribbon
velvet the ends finished with silk tassels
The bolero closed across the chest or entirely
closed in front is popular this season, but in
most cases the neck is cut out in a square to
show bit of the underblouse A pretty fancy