davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09

ers as well as for heir elders. The inpor
tiers have already copied the model several
times in white.
Eolienne has a place among coat mate
rails this season, but wolfe, fave in coat and
skirt costumes, has lost favor with the coat
makers. The silky eolienDe lends itself
readily to the flowing lines Of the loose, full
coat, whether short or long, and is a ser
viceable material; though on the whole,
tadeta coat is a better investment than
one Of eolienne, even II more expensive
at the start
Chiffon broadcloth will outwear either
silk or eolienne and is, as always, we'll to
the front among cloak materials, but It is
Of course warmer than silk for midsummer
wear and soils more easily than silk. White
cloth with Irish crochet is popular, and the
champa gne tints and their successors-
known by various names but resembling
what was last season called champagne
oolor-are well liked in combination with
heavy lace or embroidery or linen.
The light onion browns, too, are shown in
some Of the smartest coats Of the carriage
or evening class, but this color, although
its vogue Is evidently 70 run over from
winter to summer, is not universally be-
coming and needs relieving with consider
able white or cream il It is not to look hot.
The light silvery gray greens with a dash
of cream-light olive tones they are gener-
ally called, though they have much more
imposing names-are selected for some
silk coats, relieved by cream batiste en-
broideries and valenciennes or by heavy
lace, and these same tones are seen in cloth
carriage coats, but the color needs the
sheen Of silk to give II GOODNESS.
The pongees are successful coat ma
terias but are little used for dressy coats,
being reserved rather for travelling, driving
and motoring. Some most attractive mo-
tor coats in shantung are offered, tailored,
heavily stitched and depending upon their
cut and severe details for their oachet.
Mohair motor coats, too, are numerous
and practical, and some good motor models
are shown in mohair and in linens.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09

model which appears In one Of the
sketches was a most successful and auda-
clous Illustration Of such color handling
II was Of Powered mousselins.
At the bottom was a broad band Of black
ground, lowered in large sprawling roses
Of all the delicate faded shades 30 popular
this year, faint lavender. rose, blue green,
DO. Above this was q similar band, but
with white ground.
The two brought the mass Of color up
10 the hip curve, where 10 met q capelke
drapery Of cream net embroidered IN silk
thread, andat the shoulders was a oapuchin
Of lace, the lace caught with garlands Of
tiny artificial roses repeating the same
tones found In the flower design Of the
mousselhe. The whole coat was shirred
at the shoulders, fell in full straight folds
and was lined by loose full white chiffon
over mnuve chiffon. The whole was harmon
lous, beautiful, extTavagant, and showed
what an artists skill and an sle0dHts's de-
mand can bring forth In the realm OF coats.
Much more practical but peculiarly
dainty and desirable was q long full coat
Of light dove gray chiffon cloth-a heavy
and servioeable variety Of chiffon. It, too,
hung straight from the shoulders.
At the bottom was q deep frill Of liberty
satin matching the chiffon, and, made by
doubling the satin instead Of hemming 1t
above this frill we're two groups Of deep
tuoln In the chiffon. Liberty frills Joined
with chiffon frills around the neck, on the
shoulders and on the big pulled sleeves,
and wide streamers Of liberty fell down
each side Of the front
In any shade this coat would be charm
ing for summer evening wear, and It's sim
plioity makes it suitable for youthful wear
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09
THE COAT IS A CULT.
New Extravaganza IN the
Matter Of Wraps.
VARIETY FRESH FROM PARIS.
Styles to Suit All Figures, Tastes
and Incomes.

The -Four Coats Essential for the woman
Of FaEhiOn--One OF Them a Motoring
Coat Which Is Necessity in These Days
Tho Others Mostly Frivolous but
Beautiful Creations OfLacC, SILK, Satin.
Ribbons and Embroidery Irish Crochet
First Fayorite Among the Iaces for
Coats-Snk Goats OF Many Charms
The cult OF the coat Is assuming impos-
ing proportions In fashions world, and
within the last few years, women have
plunged into new extravaganza In the mat
Ter OF wraps, The one general utility coat
cuts a sorry figure nowadays, and the mod
Ssh woman must have at least four coats,
may have several times that number.
An evening coat Of some sort IL an essen
tial In every we'll ordered wardrobe; coat
for rough wear, a smart afternoon coat
end q motor coat are also needed by every
woman with even ordinary social position.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09
CARRIED NOME THE BULLFINCH.
And the bird SanG-EmDGrraSsmen Of
His Modest PurchAser

Don't ever in your enthusiasm over
buying a bullfinoh decide to carry il home
yourself the man who had Just bought
one was telling his friends few days ago.
1T never occurred 10 me that the little
wretch would sing on the way home.
thought he'd be too scared. Not bit Of
i'll Perhaps bullhnches arc 80 used 10
having people urge them through their
repertoire that they get over being nervous.
Anyway, while ! was reading my news
paper, over the wrapped up cage in my lap,
Ia the car, the strains Of My GrandfRthers
Clock assailed my ears. l became the
butt Of the whole oarful Of passengers.
Il stood the strain a. long as / could,
then got out with tho burden Of my song
But in the street the dear old song continued.
It broke out internationally all the way
home.
People stopped to turn TO watch me. A
hurdygurdy man could not have had a
more enthusiastic following Of small boys.
Il hoped that no one that knew would
see me. No such luckl People ] knew
seemed 10 be out in full force that day.
I'D have given that bird to anybody
II no hadn't cost such lot
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09

sloping slightly from the points in front
upward 10 the middle OF the back.
There is sketched here one very hand
some lace coat Of this type, which had
motifs Of hand embroidery on bstiste set
in around the neck in the points at the
bottom Of the front and in the sleeve frills.
This coat had a soft folded girdle Of shot
tafeta In pale green and yellow and was
lined With white silk mousseline
Black lace coats much like this model
In form are made Of black chantilly, inset
with heavier lace, and are made up over
either white or black. Short full coats
OF black ohantilly over white, with many
frills Of the lace and flu ttering knots and
ends Of black velvet, are practical and
yet dainty wraps, and the short loose coats
in white and eoru and string color lace are
legion.
Irish crochet is first favorite throughout
all FASHIONS realm, and IL as conspicuous
in the coats as elsewhere, but usually Is
combined with some finer lace in order
TO obtain softer and huffier lines. One Of
the cuts will give q COED idea Of the French
models in this class.
The short, jaunty paletOt has for basis a
loose bolero Of beautiful Irish crochet,
but 10 this bolero are fulled hounces OF
fine net lace. An embroidery Of tiny ribbon
flowers in many delicate tints trims the
neck line and a third kind Of lace-narrow
valenciennes-is introduced in the cuffs.
The mingling Of many different laces is
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09

woman who has q car Of her own OF whose
family goes IN for motoring will need q
lighter weight coat. but the woman who
will have only an occasional ride can make
her waterproof tweed or covert coat do
duty for motor coat upon those occasions.
The semi-fltting loose front coat, with
GOAT collar and sleeve and pockets much
In evidence, is the usual model. but there
are new coats following loose redingote
lines, With full body and skirts, plated into
the waist curve or set into q wide fitted
stitched girdle. This model ls shown also
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09

mode's In soft silk or satin, full blouse
models with three-quarter length skirts
and fitted Louis XIV. coats
coat of white taffeta, not long enough
for the true redingote. but following the
idea Of the full redingote, is tucked at the
shoulders and the fulness is shirred in
broad girdle shape at the waist, falling in
full folds below to the knees Handsome
lace is inset to border the coat bottom
and fronts and broadens into a yoke over
the shoulders This model, with slight
variations is shown in many colors and
materials, and for those who have figures
suited to it is an attractive coat, but it is
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09
An Egyptian Bul or Fare.

Il have sometimes wondered what people
had 20 eat in ancient times before breakfast
foods were invented, said Prof Robert W
Rogers OF Drew Theological Seminary, and
then he went on 70 give a translation he had
made OF a piece Of papyrus dug from an Egyp-
tan mound and which bore the date Of a,
D. l." which contained a household list OF
things eaten on certain days.
Among the sevas for one day dish OF liver;
two small loayes and bird from the water
and two enipe" for another day, and 90 an.
other ten oysters and one lettuce.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09

work batists embroidery with soft folds
Of mink aiik around the crown and a spray
OF big loose pink roses at the left side. The
pink wrap would go with any huhy white
or pink and white frock, and similar charm
ing effects are obtained In shot yellow
and white or light blue and white
Other short silk coats quite a. piquant
are less full and intricate in line, and are
trimmed with embroidery, applied lace,
velvet &c. rather than In seh-frills and
manipulations. A particularly delightful
model Of this class, pictured here, is Of
dull finish, soft white silk heavier than
tafieta, though fully as supple.
Bands Of a rather bright bluet velvet
and Of black velvet, With embroidered dots
OF black between the bands, are used as
trimming, and scattered over the white
silk are horal sprays Of Japanese appear
ance, embroidered In bluet shades, dun
green's and dull rose. Frills OF Lace face
the fronts and finish the quaint fun sleeves,
and the whole effect, although the descrip-
ton sounds bizarre, has nothing about 1t
that u conspicuous or too frealdsh for the
fastidious.
Embroidery in the faded soft shades
upon creamy heavy silk Of soft rich quality
Ia used In number Of the most artistic
imported wraps, and the material has the
appearance Of the embroidered silk found
In antique priestly vestments, though 1t
Is doubtless but a reproduction Of sueh
fabrics.
Longer coats in silk take ell the loose
flowing forms familiar TO us in the winter
o,,,nt,c xyror "a and IN y7iaga Cl0alra With
infinite variety Of detail to give them nov
city, and there are in addition to these
ample flowing garments many redlngote
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09
AIIssOuriS Pickle Crop.

From the Kdnsds Cir Times.
A pickle harvest is the latest thing In Mis-
souri, ateld. An order was received from
q Scotland county farmer at the state Labor
Bureau yesterday stating that he would
need sixty hands on Aug. / 70 pick pickles.
The pay is 20 cents q bushel and the man
writes that an industrious person could pick
from ten 70 twenty bushels day. IL will
A. b. JamiBon, Buperintend ent Of the bureau
said yesterday that he would send families
out 70 do the work, In that way giving en-
ployment 70 women
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09

For ordinary about to wn or short run
use somewhat elaborate coats are chosen
by many motor women, but the elaborate
motor coat always lookslout of place in =.
touring car and the makers are doing much
to meet the demand for smart severity.
The satin or silk finished rubber eoats,
which may be bought in any one Of a large
list Of oolors, are coed motor garments for
doubtful weather, and long tailored coats
Of waterproof covert, tweed, cravenette
and similar materials are the most service
able, ineXpensive coats for motoring They
are Of course warm for dog days. and the
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09

In winter the afternoon wrap may perhaps
be dispensed with because of the popularity
Of the GOAT and skirt visiting frock, but in
YARN weather a loose, attractive coat.
easily worn over fluffy summer frocks and
adding to the charm Of such frock rather
than detTacting from it, IL eminently de-
sirable
When economy Is imperative this wrap
may be chosen with view 70 making il do
duty for evening wear as we'll as for after
noon, but it is well to have an all envelopinR
cloak especially for the protection OF even
ing gowns, even il 1t Is Of the simplest and
most inexpensive character
The motor coat Is q comparatively new
item among summer essentials; but while
q woman may exist throughout a summer
without a motor coat she'll probably miss
many a good time, and there is no exagger-
alton in saying that If she il to go the usual
summer social rounds the motor coat will
lie really a necessity. combination rain
coat and motor coat is, however, possible,
and the rain coat side Of the proposition
will soothe the conscience Of the woral
who hes:tat Is abo-t indulging in a motor
costume when she has no automobile Of her
own, and summer motoring is merely a
probability, not an assured certainty.
Coats Of ell kinds have been much in
evidence in all the best shops during the
last two weeks and the Paris models arc
coming thick and fast On tho whole,
the showing is a pleasing one, and tho
variety Is such that there should be soma
thing for all figures, all tastes and all in
comes.
A woman may have wraps in any length
land In almost any material. They may DO
loose and full or semi-fttng OF tight fitting
'they may be heavy or diaphanous; they may
. lie black or white, or may run the gamut Of
the popular oolors.
Among the white coats those Of lace
and those Of linen are the most noticeable.
The linen coats are in many cases 80 elabo-
Tately trimmed with lace that they deserve
place among the lace garments, but en-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09

Coats in the delicate tinted shot effects
and in plain light colors are built up on
the short, fun lines Of which we have spoken
and are delightful Accomplishments for
the light summer frock Of an elaborate
character often being designed especially
10 accompany some such frock, though per
haps adapted also to wear with other
toilottes, One imported costume Of open
work white batiste made up over pink
has little pink paletot all frills and shir-
rings and trimmed, too, with open work
batiste embroidery matching the frock.
A hat to 60 with the costume IL Of open-'
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09

and shirring and plating beggar descrip-
ton, to long, ample ooats, capable Of pro-
tecting delicate summer frocks, though
often overdelcate for service themselves
The little wraps are fascinating things,
fashioned very often from the shot silks,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09

LITTLE COAT OF EMBROIDERY AND LACE.
not 50 generally becoming as the loose
coats.
The black taffeta coats are beyond count
ing and are made along all Of the popular
designs. French coat in very soft black
Rlace taifeta trimmed in narrow rows
Of putting alternating with inset bands
Of black chantiDy and with a handsome
braided yoke, is lined with white accordion
plated mousseline faced by many frills
Of valenciennes, and is among the most
successful models Of a maker famous for
chic wraps.
A very light weight supple moir6 is be-
ing exploited by some of the French coat
makers, and often with admirable results.
In a delicate pearl gray, inset with lace
dyed to Tpatch, and in a design Of huge
grape clusters, and trimmed with soft
frills Of yellowish alencOn, this new MORE
made a most deleotable flowing three
quarter coat, and in black It Is an ideal
material for the elderly woman's summer
wrap. new supple faille, too, has been
taken up Enthusiastically by cloak makers,
but taffeta still holds the first place.
Mousseline, chiffon cloth and net are
perishable materials for the wrap, but
perhaps for that very reason have for
some time past been popular with the
fashionable women who do not count
dollars in their pursuit Of modish elegance
This spring models in these sheer stufs
are lovelier than ever, and the Powered
mousselines and chiions 90 wonderful
in design and ooloring are often utilized
by the artist IN coats.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09
The Choice OF u Glove.
ZION 10 London Erprs,,.

FTOTW TN LlVWUVW HIVTNNHs
Many women make the mistake OF think
ing that a tight fitting glove makes the hand
look small, The tight fitting glove makes
the hand bulge in places, 20 that II looks
badly proportioned. 10 say nothing Of stopping
the circulation Of the blood ana making the
hands cold.
The glove that IL too large gives a slovenly
appearance 70 the hands Il iH therefore
better 10 have the gloves fitted
A soft plable kid makes tho hand look
smaller than the thicker feathers henco
many women with large hands have a pre-
ference for the suede glove, though the
lace glove IL smarter.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09

coats similar in line may be seen elaborated
for afternoon wear
The all lace coats Of loose and farng
lines are new only in their details and ma
terials, but there are numbers Of closely
fitted lace coats suggestive q Louis XIV.
designs, and these though not so generally
serviceable as the loose garments, are
finding much favor with the fashionable
elect Some Of these coats are quito
smooth fitting and have half length skirts,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09

CAPE or DARK BLUE CLOTH AND PLAID SILK
broideTy upon linen is usually mingled
with the lace, and It is hard TO tell where
one begins and the other ends.
Such a coat Is shown among the sketches
on this page-a short loose little wrap
reaching only 70 the waist line and made Of
heavy ecru linen, embroidered in open
work and inset with handsome large medal
lions Of heavy guipure in the shade Of the
linen. SmaikeT medallions form a oon-
tinuous line bordering the fronts and the
collnrless neck.
A large majority Of the dressy wraps
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-09

aa popular a. II was Last summer, though
Irish lace and It's imitations-some Of them
remarkably ehectiye-have a much greater
Importance than they had last year, and
embroidery oonsorts with the laoes In more
intricate designs than ever before.
The silk coats vary from frivolous little
wraps whose complexities Of fold and frill
The Kemper herald. (Scooba, Miss.) 1875-1908, 1905-04-13
Sully in Business.

New York.-It has been announced
that Daniel j. Sully had been elected
president of the Southern Cotton Cor
poration, organized to establish cottor
warehouses throughout the South. Dis
cussing the company's plans, Mr.. Sui
ly said: "For many years the cottor
interests, planters, merchants, and man
ufacturers alike, suffered from the lacl
of inadequate warehouse facilities fol
storing and carrying cotton. The
grain trade Of the country is accus.
toned to elevators and to the facilities
which they afford for handling grair
and issuing against it negotiable re
ceipts, yet the cotton trade is practi.
cally without any such system. Here
and there throughout the South will
be found a good freproof warehouse
but hundreds of thousands of bales OF
cotton now held back by the growers
are lying outdoors in the rain and mud
and subject to serious injury. Under
such conditions insurance is four OF
five times as high as in fireproof ware
houses and every expense connected
with the storage and marketing Of cot.
ton is alike burdensome to planters
and to cotton mills. A broad ware.
house system will overcome these
heavy drawbacks. and annually save
many millions Of dollars"
The Kemper herald. (Scooba, Miss.) 1875-1908, 1905-04-13
Loeb Makes Record.

Washington William Loeb, Jr.
secretary to President Roosevelt
stands on record as giving the biggest
reward ever paid for lost watch, anc
of making at the same time the quick.
est appointment ever made in the gov
ment departments. Mr.. Loeb lost his
watch a few days ago, while on his
way to the White House, and adver
tised in one of the local papers for 1t
Mrs. Michael C. Lauxmann, who found
the watch, saw the advertisement and
went to the Presidents office to de-
liver to Mr.. Loeb his lost tlme-pleee
Mr.. Loeb asked her how he should re.
ward her, expecting, of course, to pay
a sum Of money. Mrs. Lauxmann re-
piled that he could best serve her by
having her appointed to a position tha'
would keep her and her family iron
starvation. Mr.. Loeb listened whllt
Mrs. Lauxmann told him of the recent
death of her husband, who was in the
engagement of the Department OF the
Coass and Geological Survey, and OF
her great poverty since that time. The
chief clerk at the survey office hac
given her some odd work to do but she
wished to feel more secure. Mr.. Loet
took the matter under advisement, anc
the result was Mrs. Lauxmann has re.
ceived $3.50 appointment in that de.
partment as stenographer and type
writer. The appointment was made
only few hours after Mrs. Lauxmanr
bod told har story
The Kemper herald. (Scooba, Miss.) 1875-1908, 1905-04-13
THEIR ONLY SALVATION.
Independent Oil Producers OF Kansas
to Consolidate.

Chanute, Kan.-Representatlves OIL
thirty Independent oil companies, :,
which control three-fourths OF the OIL,
production Of Kansas, met mere anu
decided to form company repre-,
senting $7,OoO,OO0 of invested capllai
to build fuel oil pipe line from the
Kansas oil field to Kansas City, anu
to construct a refinery and storage
tanks in that city.
. The company to be formed VIII pc
the only one which will compete Win
the Standard Oil Company for the mar
kets of the Middle West. The pro
ducers decided, that consolidation
of all their interests is the only saliva
ton Of the Independent operators III
Kansas. Two months ago the produc-
ers appointed a committee to lnvesti-
gate the fuel oil market at Kansas
City and the cost Of a pipe llne to tna'
point. The report of this committee
Informed the producers to form COM
pany and commence the construction
of a pipe line and refinery at once
The Standard Oil Comapny, it IS salo
had force of men here watching the
proceedings Of the independent pro
ducers. The Standard forces announc
ed that the presence of these people
was merely coincidence. There were
present at the meeting representatives
of companies operating in the lndlal
Territory, but only Kansas companies
will be represented in the company t'
be organized.
It is believed that the organization
of the independent producers into
company will insure market for tn
Kansas producer independently OF th'
Standard Oil Company.
The Kemper herald. (Scooba, Miss.) 1875-1908, 1905-04-13
Gasoline Motor Boat.

Ponta Delgada, Azores. The Amer
lean gasoline automobile boat Grego-
ry has arrived here. She will proceed
for Gibraltar and France. 1t has been
repeatedly asserted that the Gregory
was built for the Russian government
but this has been just as frequently
denied by those Interested in the boat
who insist that she is the private
yacht of her constructor, Lewis Nixon,
and that she is going to the Mediter-
ranean the present time for the pu-
pose Of winning the prize of $4,000
offered by European enthusiast for
the first motor-boat to cross under her
own power.
The Kemper herald. (Scooba, Miss.) 1875-1908, 1905-04-13
New Tram Road.

Preliminary steps for the building
Of w. Denny & Co. s tramroad from
Moss Point to Evan s Gap, on the Mo
bile, Jackson and Kansas City Rail
road have been taken by Seely Dunn,
contractor, representing A. Philbrick
& Co., of New Orleans This new road
viii be standard gauge, and will even
fually become a public thoroughfare,
as il will penetrate and develop finely
tinbefed lands hitherto inaccessible.