The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-07-16

New Workers. will seek to see the reflection
OF the stars In their soup and want the
moon TO furnish most Of the light Tor their
evening meal.
New Yorks out OF door dining rooms
are not elaborate, and consist for the
most part OF an awning thrown over a per-
manent terrace. Further from the oitys
center, the out Of door dining rooms are
better suited to their purpose.
In the park. for instance, there are ter
races built for the diners who go there OF
simmer nights, and further uptown on the
banks Of the river, there are tables spread
ont on tho grass between walks circled by
globes Of yellow light 1t pays these places
TO have beautiful summer dining rooms
under the July skies, for their guests never
come At any other season.
One restaurant is proud Of summer
dining room that consists Of balcony
capable Of accommodating two parties
when they are not too large. Another
merely takes out section Of wall to admit
the few breezes that may come from the
north"
The two most popular summer dining
rooms are on terraces that overlook Fifth
avenue One of these is rather deliberately
OoCOTAt00 Will ho"ttS' iV cVhSi '''o
only the ornamentation Of palm or two
and its red table cloths.
Away from the avenue on the top Of a
large hotel there is roof dining room
with music, electric lights and flowers all
OF IL, own. But this is scarcely to be con-
silered the summer dining ROOM AZ 1t has
practically taken the place OF all others.
IL Is not so much the external features
A. tkat ia nrHy
a. the bill Of fare The orthodox way of
dining in the open air is to order nothing
but cold dishes
take my word for it," said Victor under
the red awning the other night when there
was scarcely breeze enough to move the
long fringe of the table cloths and the palms
stood motionless. you need not fast on
account OF this weather. 1t Is warm, but
your dinner will cool you. Listen to what
should suggest.
Il will give you first delicious slice of
melth-cantaloup so sweet that 1t Ia like
rock sugar. Then some clams-Little Necks,
but not 80 small as to make them tasteess.
They shall be large enough for your teeth
to Ret comfortably into once.
Then you shall have a delicious rich
coi,somme 80 nearly frozen that 1t is thick
in the cup.
Your fish course will be Long Island
trout 90 fat and white that you will be able
to take of thick layers Of his cold, tender
Sides He was boiled this morning with bay
leaves and salt and pepper enough to flavor
him we'll and delcately.
Then he was put on ice. and when he was
quite cold he was adorned with mushrooms
and cepea and little slices OF pimento.
Then he was carefully surrounded with
aspio jelly and put back into the icebox,
where he is only waiting to be ordered by
you to fulfil every plan that destiny has in
store for him.
.Your entree, II you want one. although
II IL by no means indispensable in this warm
weather, shall be a thin slice Of Virginia
lam-a delicious ham in the first place and
then boiled as it should be. half an hour to
every pound, then covered with cloves and
sugar and Drowned in the oven.
with that you shall have some cold
string beans with sauce that stops just
this side Of salad dressing. 1t is not 30
sour and is not 80 rich with oil. 1t is just
what IL should be to flavor the beans, yet
not take the place Of salad.
your roast will be breasts Of young
chickens, plump and cold but not dry and
tough as most cold chicken gets in the
icehoxes, served with cold tomatoes in to
which chopped up celery has been stuffed
with unayonnaise to flavor 1t.
If you want an ice, II Is there, i have
known guests after dinner of such cooling
s,iccvlence to have the caprice that they
must eat the exact opposite when it came to
tho entremets. One of these Ierverse
eaters was Lady Who Who only a salh an hour lF
such dinner that should bring her peches
SO on the flaming peaches came. with
the hot sauce boiling in the bottom OF the
channg dish and the blue FIRE blowing. as
a cold dinner, original. But, gentlemen,
was IL gastronomic II the highest sense?
Med I ask you? You will take coffee, and
lot
with one another to create the summer
Dishes for they are eaten only by persons
who are interested in getting good things.
Half of the customers who come to New
York restaurant from out OF town do not
even look at the list of cold things, and
II they were compelled to eat cold dinner
would declare it insipid.
One of the other head walters outlined
the other night the best cold dishes that his
restaurant could offer patron who wa. ID
check.
He opened the dinner, like the other, with
melon. That is a weakness that no head
waiter can overcome at this season. He
followed 1t with what is called a clam cock
tail on the shell.
The cocktail mixture Of tomato catsup,
paprika and lemon is not put into glass
with the clans but in the center of the
plate on which they are served. Then
the person willing to try the strong, hot
mixture is able to take as much as he
wants.
The fish was cold salmon, which was
something more than cold, really chilled
through, although not frozen. The aro-
n,atic sauce Ravigote, which il pale green
IN color, furnishes as delightful a contrast
to he sense Of taste as to the sight.
The soup was strained chicken gumbo,
aiso chilled thoroughly.
cold double entrec6ie or sirloin steak
tM.e inches thick was served with aspara-
~. tips covered with sauce Holandaise
Tint had just been cooled, This was the
r'G'e de resistance.
[ old partridge breasts served with al
n-ator pears, and pimentoes as salad, con.
tuted the dinner. The des ,ert was a cold
pas'ry filled with fresh pistache nuts broken
un IN half, and frozen whipped cream
which was fecked with cooked fresh straw
Ltrries and family favored with cognac.
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