The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, 1905-12-28

! ieries and shops and were dusty and
| not. l asked the guide If there was no
| dressing room attached to the restau-
rant. Solemnly and impressively the
| guide led US TO small apartment, assur-
ing us that this was the one cafe in
the city which boosted such a con-
Venience-and he locked us in! A most
untidy washstand. with one spigot,
running cold water, and an impossible
towel constituted its furnishings, and
we had TO pound loud enough to wake
the dead IN order to secure our liberty.
we discussed the matter over our
luncheon and decided that the next
time We'd stand the dust and CRIME,
when the head waiter presented our
BILL Checking it UP we found lire,
| or 40 cents, charged to sundries, and
asked for an explanation.
'Signora,' replied the guide, with a
reprodchful expression, did l not say
1t was the only restaurant in town that
had the dressing room? Two lire for
such convenience-is not that very
reasOnable?'
One lovely afternoon we had walked
until we were tired looking at statuary.
so we told our guide TO secure us a
carriage for the return trip. The rate is
three lire an hour outside the city
gates, so We rented the carriage for
that time, bidding the driver take us
first through the palace grounds. Never
in my life will I forget that drive. The
Jehus one determination was to get
US TO our pension as soon as possible,
so he could secure another fare. The
fact that we had rented the carriage
for an hour carried no moral weight
with him. He wanted to dump US at
the hotel, that was all. The way we
"a q
We were at the pension door in twenty
minutes.
Tell him to take US to the flower
market said to the guide. and both
men scowled. Another riotous ride to
the flower market and ten minutes
more were exhausted. I'd have had
my moneys WOrth-the full hour, but
both men looked so ugly that mother
insisted on going right home. Her
tendency to hysteria was worth money
to the guides and their cOpfederates.
when we went through the royal
palace the guide asked me if we would
like to see the kings apartments.
There was no charge, Of course, but a
few confines, a Ira, yes, for the at
tendant. Gullible creature that 1 was,
I yielded. We went through room after
room, royalty furnished, from library
70 bath. Beyond the last wall we heard
the sound of ehildren's Yoices-and
hurdy-gurdy. Think of it. street pi
ano in the royal palacei We were very
much impressed, and, after we had
left the royal apartments, and the at
tendant had bowed and SCraped over
his two lire, one for me and one for
mother, I asked my guide where the
king and queen were disporttng them
selves at midday, while we could go
through their apartments. He looked
at me with that superior air of pity
which I had grown to hate. and re-
piled: 1.-The lzing-he is in England.
For every monarch in Europe there is
a suite of rooms set aside in this palace.
Those would be used by King Edward
if he ever came here.
But you see the point-he had given
us 10 understand that they were the
royal apartments of the king of that
country and his wife.
IT got even with that guide the next
night, however. Mother and 1 wished
to go to a music hall. He secured us
tickets for the most fashionable hall
in the city, and 1 gave him enough
money to pay for them, according 10
the prices set forth upon all the post
ers. Mother and l were resting, when
he came back with word that because
Cleo Merode was playing at the house
the prices were doubled. l could not
understand why this fact had not been
stated on the posters, but I was too
tired to argue so l gave him the addi-
tiOnal price and received my tickets.
When we reached the theatre, about
o'clock. he wanted more money. This,
found later, was legitimate. Your seat
check does not include your admission.
But he had doubled the price of the
seat checks on me. Now, at this kind
Of music hall, you must patronize the
bar. We allowed our guide to do that,
also to pay for his own drink. which, it
seems, was % centimes, or cents in
our money. The guide proffered in
payment for his glass of beer a Ira, or
20 cents. and the waiter, in character
istic fashion, retained the change as a
pourboire. In vain did our Angelo ar
que. The waiter continued to rush past
him with unseeing eyes and unhearing
ears. Finally I wearied of his COM
plants, and said:
- oh, Angelo, do hush! It is good for
you to know how ii feels to be an
American and be done by every one
around you
"The experienced traveller who can
speak French meets with none of these
annoyances. She has a sure weapon In
her head-the ability to make herself
understood and 10 understand what
those around her say. She is better
served and secures real bargains when
she shops. because the humblest driver,
the meekest waiter in Europe speaks
French.
1T do not think that any girl, or even
two girls, should travel in southern
Europe alone unchaperOned. Many
and many a time I was grateful to
mother for more than her company. We
met in one city very charming young
woman who was doing the country
for some magazine. She was one Of
those girls so thoroughly capable of
taking care Of herself that she had be-
come reckless. One morning as she
was passing the concierge he stopped
her and advised her to remove pretty
enamelled watch she was wearing,
pinned to her dress. She laughed at
him, and he urged her, saying it was
not safe to go abroad offering such
temptation to nimble fingers. And still
she laughed At luncheon time she
came back without her watch. The
manager of the pension and his con-
cierge were regretful-but they caught
the thief, and the girl was obliged to
appear against him. She had the pro-
lection of mother, who had become in
terested in her-and of the United
States consul. AS soon as the fellow
had been convicted the consul turned TO
the girl and said: Now, we will go
back to the hotel and pack your trunk.
and you will get out of this city before
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