Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-06-03
C0QUETT|SH GOWNS
Costumes for Wear on Fete
Days in June.
DELICATE TEXTURE
LOUIS EMBROIDERY SHOWS MINI.
AZURE EFFECTS.
Oinkiest Little Hats for Elderly Wo-
men and Large Ones for
the Young.


NEW YORK, June l. 1905.
So beautiful and party-like are the fire
summer materials this year that a gown
made of them for gala occasions cannot be
other than charming.
Trimmings and lines of making likewise
combine with these ravishing textiles to
produce the most picturesque effects. highly
suggestive in some cases of the old Wat
teau millinery. More than one exquisite
gown designed for garden party or other
opeu-air fete use displays leaning toward
the panniers of this painters dainty period,
even If the hip extension is only suggested
by the manner in which the trimming is
put on the skirt The colors, too. are the
ones of Watteau's day The same lovely
young greens and rosy pinks and sky blues
are used, while the lace and satin costumes
are topped by pretty foolish hats of quite
the same shepherdess genre. The buttons
and buckles employed-and there are many
are. to a great degree, in the old quaint
designs and ara of rare beauty.
Painted buttons in antique settings,
she wing woollT sheep, shepherds. shep-
herdesses or noble ladies. appear In limited
numbers, for they are huge in size, and
some of them are genuine old brooches
turned to this account.
In fact, there is a great revival in old
3ewelry, but sacred emblems rub elbows
with DTOfane IN q WIZ way. ne SIOSSSo
. of fligree gold or precious gems, which
orca had a vogue, are again worn, and on
the French "sautoir' chains, along with
tear bottles, Hindoo idols and woolly sheen.
is sometimes seen, in gold or crystal the
Saint Esprit-HoIy Dove-of sacred history!
The newest of the long chains themselves
are very simple, the merest threads or
gold and platinum. and upon these the
funny old charms are hung at intervals.
Painted Muslins.
The painted nluslirs of elaborate pattern
and the gauzes and nets and laces which
show the Louis ribbon embroideries, these
taking the most set and courtly forms, are
rare textiles much in favor. Upon the
white skirt in ore of these fragile and yet
durable materials the embrolderies may
form deep border in delicate colors, Shap-
ing the miniature frames and wreaths and
bow knots of the long ago. The painted
muslins are SO called merely for novelty
for the wonderful designs in reality are
woven in. But the effect is as cunning as
If produced with a brush-and the under
side of many a pattern carries out the
painted illusion in a blur Of color. Two
important points are demonstrated by the
sr,&rtest OF the gala gowns for midsum-
Iner.
one IS the silk or satin fitted coat. with
basques of varying length, which is In the
gayest color and is combined with skirt
of lace gauze or net. The other IS tne
wa!stcoat-vest--which shows at the front
of the basqued coat. and helps to give the
high-busted look now necessary. The waist
coat, however Is not always a defined vest,
Of the usual vest lengths The coat may
open to show ii only at the waist, where
& high girdle OF some sort achieves the vest
look. the arrangement Of the coat just
above further helping It. Some Of the
fronts of these coats are in full stirring.
which, however. permits no loose bagging;
for the fronts are held in close to the
figure by some ornament or other often
buckle frames shirred over with the gown
material.
Flat trimmings are a distinct feature
with these ravishins toilets, and such skirts
flounceG display mainly the shaped
sorts, which are garlanded to produce a
draped and graceful effect. The wide
"Stand-off'' skirts which fashion tried to
fOist upon US have now no extensive vogue.
and all signs point to a popular acceptance
of the present clinging styles, The little