The San Francisco call., 1905-03-19
By AUGUSTA PRESCOTT.

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have a full supply of spring
shirt waists. Certainly 1t is well
known that the dainty little blonde
Princess is very fond of the shirt
waist and it was while purchasing
supply in London. with her mother,
that she met the Crown Prince
London ta1lors have been very busy
the past few months getting their shirt
waist fashions from the United States,
for IN London the American shirt waist
holds supremacy. Signs bearing the
legend, American shirt waists" ara
exhibited. not only among the shop
ping districts Of London, but In the
Rue de La Paix, Paris, and even In
Vienna and Berlin There is no one
single garment as much worn as the
shirt waist and all Europe and all
America know It
The most popular waist Of the coming
summer VIII be the embroidered linen
waist One can put it down as a bit
OF fashion gospel that the embroidered
linen waist, fine or heavy. VIII be the
waist OF waists for summer wear.
White VIII be the preferred color, but
there is being made a determined ef-
fort TO popularize the colored waist
And one does see pale blue and light
pink embroidered linens. and any num-
Der OF buffs and green's.
But tt Is the heavy white waist which
Is 6rst favorfte- TT looks dressy
while not being too fraiI for every
day" said a woman who had Just laid
IN q purchase OF nearly fifty shirt
waists. And as for me and my daugh-
ters we absolutely live in shirt waists
from Easter until Thanksgiving.
This year the supply Is nearly all white
linen.
Laying aside the gIittering generali-
ties Of the shirt waists here are a few
pointers which the woman who is MAX
ing up her spring wardrobe must
heed:
Shirt waists. to be elegant, must be
hand embroidered.
For hand embroidery the popular ma
terial is mercerized linen. 1t is glossy
and wears elegantly. Do not use cot
ton for your hand embroidery but in
vest in little glossy linen thread for
your best waists
Let your embroidery be padded.
Roses must be stuffed and so must all
other flowers. Raise them as high as
you can. STUFF the petals of pinks and
the centers of roses and chrysanthe-
NUNS. The flowers that grow upon
the feminine bosom this spring are
large and heavy and elegantly finished.
Great Big Padded Flowers.
The best shirt waists have immense
punches of flowers upon the front, not
tiny little wandering sprays, but great
big padded flowers.
Waists that are made according to
Dame Fashions most pronounced
modes are made neckless. They have
the little Dutch neck, which Will per-
nit Of stock or a bertha underneath.
But the neck is finished plain and
round. Or the neck can be a French
neck with a tiny point in front 1t is
very smart to finish the neck with a
cording in order that the Oriental
stocks may be worn, with their gay
embroideries and their tiny pointed
fronts.
And 1t is still smarter TO finish them
with a stiff neck band with button
holes front and back so that the new
and beautiful hand embroidered linen
collars carried out in Armenian COM
binations may be buttoned on.
The new hand-embroidered linen col
lars show the most gaudy pinks upon
them, going all the way around the
collar Iife-size, and finished with
bright red ribbon under the chin, to
match the pinks. And there are rose
collars finished In the same way.
It was Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt who
ordered a blouse Of white linen entirely
embroidered front and back with small
flowers. And judging from the waist
and from others bought by fashion
leaders Of washington and elsewhere.
the following viii be the characters
tics Of the new waists:
There is not q great deal of blouse
effect either front or back
The blouse backs are going out and
the new waists that blouse in the
back are so arranged that they can
be pulled down snug and tight.
The sleeves are immense. but they
taper toward the wrist Those that
bag at the wrist, and there are many
such, are also full at the shoulder
line. There Is no such thing as
small shoulder. One sees many Of the
little bagging sleeves and full cuffs
this spring. but there is also the full
shoulder to balance the sleeve.
Shirt waists are tubable. Waists
that will not tub are no favorites, be
they cotton. linen, batiste, null. or
candle or silk.
Wide belts. made Of needlework
and shaped like girdles. are worn.
Immense needlework belts. two fin
gers deep IN front and tapering to-
ward the back, are adjusted to many
shirt waists.
Waists, all made of piece embroi-
derry, are made UP and trimmed with
hand embroidery of a contrasting
kind.
To be very swagger make your
waist Of piece embroidery and then
work by hand some Of the largest
flowers in the pattern, doing them in
brilliant tones and in such a way that
they will stand out
Don't forget that waists are worn
with stocks, with little yolxes attached,