Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-05
FROM ACROSS THE SEA
HINTS ON MEMS DRESS FROM
THE ENGLISH CAPITAL.
Differences Between American and
British Clothes-Tips for Travellers
-Frock Coat Cut

With Henley just over it is time to
mention the changes. such as they are,
which have supervened upon River
Thames outfits for this summer because
there Is a very distinct fashion in boating
costumes. and the Thames sets it for
what other boating there is in this small
country. But, indeed. the royal river is
practically the whole thing here so far
as the smart crowd goes, and nothing
else counts. Henley is the most largely
attended of the regattas. and out of sight
of all the others in respect to fashionable
company. 1t attracts competitors from all
countries. including the United States.
Hundreds Of households are moved to the
little town which gives its name to the
most historic and interesting of all wa
ter earniyals They are crowded with
fashionable people. smart people and rich
people. Some of the rich visitors are not
fashionable. and some of the fashionable
ones are not smart: but money, in greater
or less abundance, is the note of the festl-
val because 1t costs good deal to visit
Henley, unless as a mere loafer on the
banks or the river. and a bed in town is
worth Knights ransom for a nights
looglng when the games are going on.
The Punt.
The punt has of late years gained so
much ground in comparison with the old
fashioned and time-honored skiff that the
latter may almost be said to have lost
caste. though there are many men who
still prefer it. and would have nothing to
DO with punts If their womankind did not
insist on conforming to fashionable fads
Inc consequences affecting male dress
FOR the river have been noticea BILE The
outnt that is called for by a sculling boat
Is a very negligent one. A few years ago
the man who went on the river with a
Starched shirt on would have thereby
stamped himself as the veriest know
nothing, and the same applied to stiff
collars. 1t is impossible to scull with any
vigor in stiff clothes The shirt front
buckles. creaks and Worries the collar
grows wet with perspiration and presents
a wretched spectacle of limp inaptitude.
The smartest thing that could be worn
was well-fitting flannel shirt with a
low banded turn down collar.
Now in punt the man who does the
Trcpelllng stands up; if he is any good
at the game he does not even walk along
the boat he simply plugs the pole into
the bottom of the river. draws the punt
along by it. and at the proper moment
pulls it in again the slant, allowing It
to trail for a moment If it is needed to
Strai 9Th ten the boat by acting rudderwise
(Which should however. not be neces-
sary). and then plunges it vertically into
the stream again. If he manages things
Alright water does not trickle down his
sleeve; If he bungles or is inexperienced
1t does This is annoying, because there
are generally ladies in the boat and he
cannot swear. 1t is evident that this is
an exercise perfectly compatible with a
smart shirt and collar. The right outfit
this year is a pair of white serge or fan
mel trousers, a colored shirt, starched,
double collar and long straight tie No
one ever wears a waistcoat on the river.
For Scullfng zephyr shirt is worn, but
| the rest OF the outfit is the same. Hence
| arises a well-defined rule-for, punting
you may wear a colored double collar If
| you choose, though it is not obligatory,
but scullers must wear a white one. The
| reason will be al once perceived by the
acute readers of the Haberdasher; COL
ored collar must match the shirt. and it
| is not easy to get a stiff one to match a
zephyr Soft double collars are complete
ly frostbitten. No one will have anything
| to do with them who is at all conversant
with the prevailing fashions.
The Hat Question. 80
/ have already given my views on the
hat question. There is very little doing in
new Panamas. The old ones are being
cleaned and worn again. because even the
most lavish people do not care to throw
| them away; but even these are only worn
on picnic days and by men In stag par
ties. This is regrettable. because the COM
forts of straw hat (the smart, thing this
year, are more imaginary than real If 1t
is thick enough to keep Off the sun it Is
too heavy for comfort and also too stiff
over the forehead. But 1t looks better
than anything else. The band. I may
mention. for the benefit of visitors from
d., H. l.
| choose colored ribands. because one may
hit by hazard upon some clubs colors
and to wear the cO1ors OF a club, which
| one does not belong to is rightly repre-
hended. White hat ribands, once much in
fashion, are now never seen. For punting
shoes made of white buckskin are the
proper thing, and they must have thick
rubber soles, preferably red. For scull-
ing, low shoes of the same kind are worn.
The tip to wear brown low shoes for
both purposes is common, but it IS
wrong No well dressed river man wears
colored leather shoes, but some (among
whom, as an old river man, I must con-
fess that I include my humble self pre-
fer to wear canvas low shoes.
The Frock Coat
To return to town wear. and town is
still fairly full. want to send note on
frock coat cut. There seems to be some
dubiety in certain circles as to the right
kind Of collars and lapels to wear. Now
there is only one correct solution to this
difficulty The low rolled lapel is
tirely wrong on anything but jacket,
and then only on jacket for outing and
river use. For these purposes a cashmere
jacket with this lapel is worm though it
is of course taken off when actually
punting or rowing. For town jacket to
be thus made is a solecism; still more for
frock coat. The lapels should not be
pressed to a stiff crease, but they should
be made quite firmly to such a depth as
Just to allow the waistcOat to be seen in
the opening if the coat is buttoned. which
just now it rarely is, unless in a high
wind when it would be blown about If
open, or in race course crowd when it
might present too many temptations to
the pickpocket.
Motor coats with cuffs made to button,
on occasion, close to the wrist are now
very much in favor. These cuffs are dou-
BILE ones and have a tab The old rumor
about knee brooches for evening dress
wear has cropped up again. and some one
who does not know the difference be-
tween court dress and an evening suit
has been telling how the king appeared
somewhere in this ridiculous garb. OF
course, the king wears court dress when
court dress Is called for, but he is neither
such fool nor such snob to put it
on when the ordinary evening costume of
a gentleman is necessary.
Differences in Dress.
A few notes on the differences between
English and American styles of male
dress may not be out of place here, for
the information of readers who may visit
or be called upon to advise intending
visitors to, this side Of the Atlantic There
tc wi vic CHI