Evening star., 1905-10-28

XIV court this garment having beer
adapted to the use OF women VINO IKE
striking effects. The coat is long, coming
to the knees and is built on rather square
lines with a half-ftted back showing
lergthened waist line. The pocket flaps are
enormous. The gauntlet cuffs, turning back
just below the elbow, fare broadly, but nc
collar is used.
This costume is built from olive green
velour, and is embroidered aroundthe throat
and down the front. on either side, with a
trellis effect and a grapevine in self-tone.
The same embroidery is employed on the
cuff. which is set off by jeweled buttons.
The vest is of white brocade showing an
ivory ground worked in oriental colorinss
and a touch of gold. The round full skirt
is absolutely plain, the better to show OF
the elaborate coat.
With this is worn a blouse of green ch1r-
fon of exactly the same tint, inset with
motifs of lace dyed to a self-tone save at
the wrist, where double founce Of green
and ivory white lace is employed.
Will Be Popular.
Green is one of the most popular shades
In velour for winter, despite the efforts OF
fabric makers to push to the fore purple,
prune and amethyst shades. A popular
combination with the green is a vest Of
cream satin covered with pink and blue
flowers in soft pastel shades done in ribbon
embroidery.
A striking calling gown of deep amethyst
velvet had a vest OF peculiar shade OF
blue brocade, which, according as the light
struck it, changed to amethyst, pink and
mother -of-pearl tints. Brocades are also
combined with the more sober broadcloth
and form the perktest sort of vests
Another dash of color sometimes shown
on broacloth is a passementerie or novelty
trimming showing silver or gold palllettes
and tiny motifs OF opalescent sequins shad-
ing to the color of the broadcloth, such as
blue amethyst, green, prune, etc.
The elaborate coat with its three-quarter
of elbow sleeve displays a tenacious charac-
ter Instead of proving whim OF the sum-
mer girl, it has held over for winter IN
more prominent forms, and even the rur
coats have short sleeves set off by ruffies
of lace Consequently the muT is broader
and softer than ever. so that very NIUE OF
the undersleeve Is exposed when the hanuS
are thrust into its cozy depths. Under
sleeves are still made of the most sheer
materials even when the vest and otner
trimmings of the gown show the tendency
to brocades and heavy embroideries
Cloth and Velvet.
Broadcloth and velvet are unquestiona5ly
the fabrics most popular for calling and
reception gowns, and furs to accompany
them are most elaborate, being laden with
friIlings of rich lace, while instead of frogs
and clasps, fat rosettes of lace with jewel
ed centers or touches of ribbon embroidery
conceal their fastenings and give them
a very elegant appearance.
The woman who, even for calling, clings
to tailored effects will choose a dark-tinted
broadcloth built on rather severe lines and
strapped with pure white. popular COM
bination is mahogany with the white
broadcloth strappings Certain shades OF
blue are also effective with this style OF
trimming,
To complete gown of this kind, tho very
snartest piece of fur Is a straight band OF
ermine fastened around the throat by being
run through a slit on the left side. and
which when clasped looks for all the world
like furry dog collar. Hats to be worn
with such costume should be In one tone,
and the velvet Gainsboro, modified to suit
the coiffure of the modern woman. Is
evolved from soft velvet, fluffy paumes and
an enormous buckle of steel, gold or silver,
These long. narrow buckles of exquisite
workmanship vie in price with the feathers
which they clasp.
Prunelie cloth, which looks like a broad
cloth with twill and which Is preferred
by women who like a clinging fabric to the
broadeloth itself, comes In all the fashion,
able colorings. and favorite combination
IS lace dyed In self-tor1e overlapping a con-
trasting shade of satin. For women blessed
with good complexions gray Is decidedly
the swaggers color in gowns of this sort, and
when worn with EnoiesAln or chiachiila furn.