The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-09-09

Come and see" said the Dago. ''There are only two places in New York where you can get real, genuine Neapolitan pizze. One is on Spring Street and one on Grand. The rest ! are Americanized substitutes
 They took a surface car downtown, transferred to a forsecar and logged ! placidly eastward to the Spring Street pizze shop. On the window were the 1 cabaiistic words. "Pizze Cavuie,' and the window itself was piled high with Italian chesses.
 Within was a long, black table, covered with a bright green oilcloth land surrounded by long black benches. Along one one side of the room ran a row of little private stalls about the size of theatre boxes, with partitions of black wood between. and a black table and two benches in each.
 1 Tt something to eat" said the woman, .'but what is it?''
 If you had ever been in Naples" 7" I said the Dago, you would know
 pizze cavuie. Every tourist is bound I to taste them as one of the features of the city"
 Back of railing which cut the .l shop in two in the middle stood two Neopolitan bakers. They were clothed in white, with white caps up- on their heads, and they had fat rolls of white dough. A broad shelf ran along behind the railing, and the woman watched the baker make her pizze on this shelf.
 4 He took one of the fat rolls and with
 a few slaps on the shelf fattened it until 1t was a little thincker than a lpancake and a little large than an 1 ordinary pie. After 1t was fiattened lie dabbed bits Of lard all over the
 surface Then he sprinkled it with
 grated Roman cheese from dishful which stood beside him. Then he poured on cooked tomato, and on top
 threw a handful of aregata, the spicy 4 aromatic herb which is a favorite Italian seasoning
 The whole operation had not taken j him more than a minute. Then he
 slapped 1t on a broad, fiat, long,
 handled paddle, and thrust it into an
 oven beside him, In two minutes he
 pulled it out, and sent 1t to the table
 on big round pewter plate. Also he
 sent individual plates--this in defer
 ence to American patronage. A
 The pastry seemed to be cross be-
 tween bread dough and pie crust, and
 was not lacking in suggestion that
 when cold it might lie with some
 heaviness in an unaccustomed in-
 terior. Nevertheless, it was enticing
 by reason of its hotness and crisp
 ness and the blend of spicy flavors.
 "'Pizze cavuie,' said her escort
 means simply hot cakes You won't
 find the words in the dictionary, be-
 cause they, aren't Italian but Neapol-
 itan dialect. In Naples they sell lit
 tie fellows on the street for cent
 apiece. A favorite cry for them at
 the doors of the bakeries in Naples
 in ca pummarola alice which is
 dialect for with tomatoes and an-
 chovy' They make some of them
 with anchovy over there, but never
 saw any in New York;
 As they strolled away from the
 pizze shop the Dago stopped the wo- man beofre the window of little bakery. 4 X ,s.% ~ "There is something in that window which forms a link between the New York of today and pre- Christian civ ilization," said he, as he pointed out to her some tiny cakes made in rings, the holes in the center scarce slarge enough to admit a lead pencil. t. "Those are the Neapolitan taral- lucci," said he; you don't often see them in New York. When the ex- eavators first got under ground in Pompeli they found ovens. In the
 oveens were pans, and in the pans were true Neapolitan tarallucei;, wit ness to the immortality of good cooking receipt. The tarallucci were well done. They had been in the over 100 years."~ g&, ! s-,- He took her into the shop and or dered tarallucci and coffee. e "Neapolitans always eat them with
 their coffee in the morning." said he They are crisp and erusty, and good 1 with coffee" t. s% .ss 5 The woman thought they were something more than crusty. They
 were not cakes at all, but tiny rolls ol
 buns, imperious to the teeth. A:~5 You must dip them in youl \ coffee," said the Dago; that's the wa! 2 they are eaten.'' ' '~'
 She dipped one in her coffee and
 conveyed it to her mouth: Then ar
 expression of anguish passed across , | her features. ,> ~g What's the matter?" asked her com. panion. ' , "It tastes like whole drug store.' "Oh," said he plaeidly, t1that's th2 anise seed. They're always favored : with anise seed. The coffee brings ii
 out strong. The American palate is not yet educated up to anise seed. ? I'm very glad" said she. ''Fron
 the consistency of these trallucci