The Forrest City times., 1905-08-11


 only should be used on varnish or shel- lao. The cost will be three or four cents a pound.
 Pulverized rotten stone of the best quality will cost from five to eight cents pound. Both pumice and rotten stone should be bought only whore varnish and other wood finishing materials are soid' thus :nsuring good article free from dust and grit
 The art of finishing fine furniture. pianos, etc, after they are made. as may pc inferred from the description and instructions given regarding varnishes and now to use them, is not only com pilcated. but requires years of expe- rlence and practice. and is far In ad- vance or the work of the yarnisher or painter who finishes the interior of our houses.
 Yet with these facts before him. the beginner may with care and patience III following these simple directions produce passably fair finish on ar tlcles made by himself. and bearing on which we wish to emphasize the fol lowing points:
 l.. Water stain will dry in one hour. oil stain requires 24 to 36 hours.
 z. Filler must be rubbed off perfectly clean from the surface and from all angles and corners. It must then have from 2t 10 43 hours to harden and dry. 5. Each coat of varnish or of shellae must be dry and hard before another is applied
 4 Each successive coat (except the lasD must be sandpapered smooth when dry.
 5. Eaeh coat of shellac should have about 2t hours to dry and harden.
 G. Each coat of copal Curniture) var nish mus have from two to four days to dry and harden
 T. Sheliac varnish does not resist moisture, hence be sure to use oil, not water, with the pumice stone.
 8. Copai being an oil varnish. resists moisture therefore may be rubbed with pumice and water to produce an even surface
 9. Pumice stone will cut much faster
 
 with oil
 10. When copal is rubbed with pumice and water the finished surface. although even aud smooth. will have no gloss. II. if copal is rubbed with pumice and oil finstead of waterl. a beautiful dead finish is produced, which many persons prefer to a bright, glossy polish
 F. T. bright polish is desired on any kind of yarnish, it must be polished with rotten stone and oil after being cut to aa even surface with pumice stone
 13. NeFer use block or holder when sandpapering shellac or varnish, of any kind Jse the hand only.
 14. Use a block when rubbing down flat surfaces with pumice and oil. or water, only long enough to cut off the larger projections of the Varnish. Then use the hand alone to hold the rubber l5. Never sandpaper the last coat use pumice stone, as directed.
 Note-All articles finished with copal varnish can be cleaned and renewed in appearance, after long use. in no way so well a. 10 wash with soft cloth and tepid water to which a little mild, fine soap has been added No injury will result. provided they are at once wiped dry with soft cloth. To improve the polish after the above. go over all sur faces with d small piece of chamois skin and few drops of olive oil, and finally polish with soft, dry chamois until all oil has been removed. espe- cially from the angles and corners.
 Much of the foregoing instruction ap- plies to the finishing of wood on which a fine. smooth surface and polish are desired. A very common but rough finish may be produced by first stain ing fwhen desired). filling and then applying two or three coats of good var nish of al kind. and leaving the last coat in itS natural gloss, unrubbed Such a finish may be seen on the in- terior hard woodwork of many houses, and also on the cheap grades of cab inet furniture
 Waxing.
 Waxing is the most durable, and the