The Intermountain Catholic. (Salt Lake City [Utah] ;) 1899-1920, 1905-10-21


woman has her sartorial day, to which
should be added the sense Of the
! psychological moment in making the
I change into the costume which is to
give her her innings. The modistic
sense which is inherently right under
stands the value of contrasts and of
suddenly varying the monotony OF the
/ accustomed garb by the enigmatic at
traction of uneXpectedness.
The sudden DOMINIC of severe tailor
made fashions and serges at the first
frosty breath will make the simplest
little wool shirtwaist charming be
cause of its trigness and contrast to
the tiresomez monotony of lingerie
blouses and accompanying fripperies,
and it was not long ago that the OBJ
served Of all observers was q tall and
we'll gowned apparition, with an air
Enthusiastically Partisan, or "Parisian-
lied American" more properly speak
ing, who wore a plain black chip hat,
with long, floating black chiffon veil,
among all the tawdriness of the ornate
I summer hats. Such a contrast catches
the eye and fingers in the memory, and
it is noticeable that the woman who
! affects a vogue of this kind at just
the shade out of season to make it at
! tractive invariably appears to be well
| gowned and we'll set up.
1t is upon the same principle that
another type of attractiVeness reas-
serts itself after the serious business of
the day is over in the change from
1 the severe cloth costume to the luXuri-
Gus house gown of the cool fall even
ings, after having suffered temporary
eclipse in street costume. This same
inherent sense Of contrast was carried
out the other day in simple cloth
gown of black. the skirt being arranged
in crosSwiSe folds set on with a cloth
piping of black velvet a trimming
which was repeated in long lines on
the waist and finished there with
plain gilt buckle and belt. y little
white broderie Anglaise lightened the
front and marked the finish of the
full elbow sleeves, and the eXtraordi-
narily good effect of the whole costume
was given by this alliance of black
cloth and white embroidery, with aids
III the way of a pale green silk petit
coat, which was eXtravagantly
adorned with little frils Of white lace,
and also a becoming chapeau of black
chip, trimmed with delicate pink Nal
maisons and their spiky leaves.
One of the most striking things
about the best dressed women is the
3
tailor made costumes the pouching are
scarcely perceptible, and replaced by
small and graceful waistcoats, which
make the waist appear smaller. Even
where these are omitted, and there is
cheu7jsette, il is drawn tightly into
the belt. White linen and white Mar
/ ceilles waistcoats fastened with gold
and mother of pearl buttons. are so
well worn. however. with the fall tailor
4 a. ,oTo
shiItwaist collar and cravat, and are
81 happy in effect upon the figure, that
" safely may be invested in as a
fall bargain purchase which is war
ranted to be good all next summer.
.
Another of the little Frenchisms
which the American has taken unto
herself is the touch of black, which
seems TO harmonic with everything
with which it is put. Many of the
new French tailor costumes of what
ever color have the deep pointed belt
and the collar of the blouse coat
bodice of black taffeta. One bolero
costume of Wedgewood blue had this
arrangement OF collar and girdle, and
attached to the girdle were the sash
ends also of black taffeta, which were
talked about last week. There was
also q little WaiStcoat of cream and
black striped satin, and cream en-
broidered muslin shirt and collar, with
a black tie A white or cream dress
also frequently is trimmed in black,
and one of the fanciful and yet practi-
cal trimmings is seen in ruffies of
black tulle applied to white and light
evening and dinner gowns and even to
day gowns of purest white. One of the
gowns which is TO be part of house
party outfit for October is of white
handkerchief linen, with English en-
broidery and black tulle tlounces. a
tiny fIounce or "ruchette" of the black
tulie runs under the edge of the en-
broidery, which is put on the skirt in
rows of fiounces, and appears again in
the girdle, which reaches up under the
tiny open coat, also edged with the
needlework A white vest of Valen-
ciennes lace edgings, together with a
plentiful use OF; pale green ribbon bows
finishes the costume.
.
Some Of the prettiest gowns for fall