The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1905-03-29
NEWEST OF BATGSTE BlOUSES
Copyright, 1905, by r. F. Ayers,

NOopSIlSHl, 19Oo by X + AyerS)
There is one distinctly new feature
In the latest blouses: one which is by
no means agreeable to the woman who
has been able to disguise the imperfect
lit or her soft waists by the aid of a
pouched front and a deep adjustable
girdle. The waist line now must be
clearly defined and above the belt
which is a component part of all
modish blouses; there must be no
pouch whatever. A little fullness is al
lowed across the bust, but the material
must be brought down smoothly and
snugly into this we'll fitted girdle. which
is attached to the blouse all round
1t is obvious. then, that blouseS are
to be worn outside Of the skirt, which
means that unusual care will have to
be taken in holding the blouse, as we'll
as shaping the skirt around the waist
and hips.
Generally speaking, the blouse girdle
or belt, if it is extremely narrow, which
Is sometimes the case, is made of the
same material from which the garment
is fashioned, though 1t is not unusual
to see trimming or a contrasting fabric
folded gracefully round the waist in
perfect fitting ceinture. All blouses
except in a few thin batiste models, are
mounted upon a tight fitting lining, but
the yokes of these may be cut out to
increase their comfort and GOODNESS.
Today's sketch is replete with sug-
geStions for either silk or linen. The
very shallow yoke forms points. one
coming in the center, one in the back,
and two interrupted ones over the
shoulders. The inside part of the yoke
Is made of thin lace, upon which In
dividual patterns are worked so that
mere glance assures one that the de-
sign is specially made for this use.
Outlining the yoke and separating the
various sections is strip of fine en-
broidered beading. This is Joined to
the yoke and body of the blouse by
hand and the batiste is fulled slightly
over the bust and then drawn down
without a pouch into the belt, which is
tight fitting and shaped somewhat
broader across the front.
On either edge of the high stock is a
band of embroidered beading with a
strip of fine batiste run with tucked
Shirrings between. The inside seam Of
the double puffed sleeve is shirred its
entire length, and across the middle of
the upper arm there is a straight
width of tucked shirring, and another
comes at the bottom of the second puff.
This forms the upper edge of the long
tight cuff which presents a pretty al
formation of beading, shirring, putting
and lace frills for the wrist.
The majority of batiste and satin
blouses fasten in the back. This is the
case with the following design, in
which may be noted more than one
unique and pretty effect: Cream col
ored washable satin formed the foun-
dation. This was tucked for about an
inch on to a deep v shaped yoke, or.
more properly speaking, a chemisette
of lace. which was edged with a fat
fold of the satin. The arrangement of
tucks provided a becoming fullness
over the bust and then, instead of
having this brought with a straight eff
feet into the girdle, the folds produced
by the 'tucks were allowed to radiate
from the chemisette. Some of the full
ness naturally spread to the armholes,
some was drawn into the under arm
seams, and the rest, that part which
came directly in the center was dis
posed of in such way that it formed
a pointed corselet, upon the bottom of
which appeared the inevitable belt.
This was made of bias folds of the
satin measuring altogether not more
than an inch and a half
The upper part of the sleeve fell into
a moderate sized puff of satin, and a