The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-07-09

day have decided vogue In Paris. and still
more valued are bits OF the vertabie rieua
jouy or antique Powered linen which are
used for waistcoats, revers, &C.. not only on
linen frocks, but on cloth, silk. DO. the
colorings in some Of these old pieces are
really lovely.
Upon frocks OF soft white wool. such as
cashmere or wolfe, hands and other trim
mings of the real or imitation rieu1 'ouv
are particularly good, and black chiffon
broadcloth tailor costume with quaint
Powered linen waistcoat running the full
length of its long redngote was one OF the
most popular tailor models turned out this
season by Partisan maker famous for such
costumes.
Combinations Of embroidered linen with
sheer stuffs OF various kinds arc numerous.
and some OF the handsomest OF the bridge
gowns, garden party frocks and other cos
tunes intended for daytime wear are
evolved from such combinations.
The gown Of valenciennes and open
work embroidery included In the large
group Is case In point and shows the de-
lightful possibilities In such union. The
black velvet girdle straps and neck fold are
good details and one finds these touches OF
velvet upon many summer frook.
An old time fancy Is revived by ribbon
Of velvet or silk lying around the base OF
the throat and tied at the back In CO.
quettish bow This ribbon supports pen
dant OF some kind, and often the pendant,
too, Is an echo Of earlier days In the form
of a jeweled cross or quaint old locket
The fad is becoming one and often affords
an opportunity for introducing a note Of
color relief in light or neutral costume
not especially becoming to the wearer.
Still another fancy, with the same flavor
OF other days. is the velvet or ribbon brace
let encircling the wrist and tied In little
bow. This comes in naturally with the
reign of the elbow sleeve and black velvet
In particular whitens and beauties the
arm in most fattering fashion.
A pretty young American who poured
the tea at a recent swell function In the
American colony of Paris wore the daintiest
and auaintest of white chiffon frocks with
an exquisite lowered border In pale pinks
and greens and mauve. The shaped girdle
and the yoke were Of lace over pale pink,
and neck ribbon Of black velvet suspend
Ing q pearl locket and bracelet Of black
velvet emphasizing the Wilderness and shape
illness OF pretty arm made an old fash
Toned portrait Of the exceedingly modern
maid.
A bracelet OF pekine or striped black
and white silk matching the frook trim
ming is one phase OF this bracelet fad,
and, as we have said before the striped
silks In black and white or some dark color
and white have much prestige for revers
waistooats. girdlee. bows, and even whole
Louis or Directoire coats.
A dainty sheer frock In canary batiste
intricately inset with narrow valenciennes
and trimmed with valenoiennes frills had
q striped black and white silk girdle, cor
sage bow and bracelet, and another model
from a different maker was In white silk
mousseline and lace with a girdle. oravat
and sleeve knots in striped silk OF vivid
green and white.
Discussion Of the costly frocks In which
linen plays a part should not stop with
consideration of the linen morning frock,
which is in it's own province quite as chic
and trim, dainty frocks Of this type are
legion this year. OF the coat and short
skirt costumes in linen we have spoken
so often that there Is little left to tell OF
them, though new tricks in skirt cutting,
plating. &C., appear constantly.
The plain tailored coat and skirt Of linen,
long or short. close fitting or loose, is, when
we'll made, one OF the smartest costumes
Of the summer for certain purposes, but
there is, of course, more variety in the
blouse and skirt morning frocks, which
need not assume rigid tailored severity,
though overtrimming ruins them for their
purpose.
Nvsr IL,
than ever before, and though white, as
always, is more used than color and, taking
into consideration, is more
serviceable than any other linen, much is
done with the soft dull blues and pinks and
greens and bluffs and lilacs Some exceed
ingly modish frocks OF gray linen also have
been turned out this season and, though
brown is a warm color for hot weather, some
OF the models in the various shades Of
Havana and chestnut brown combined
with white have been most attractive and
There are, too. some plaid
linens which have caught French fancy
and are on the tartan order These make
up into delightful little morning frooks,
with the inevitable chemisette or yoke OF
white. and are at their best in the clear blue
and white and green, with perhaps narrow
line Of red or yellow.
Rumor has it that plaids arc to DO Of con-
siderable importance during the coming
fall and winter but We have heard Wolff
Welf!' 80 often on this subject that II Is hard
to believe the announcement. Several
times plaids have attained decided vogue
in Paris, but for some reason failed to take
here. This year may, however, tell a dii-
ferent story.
SELLING FURS IN SUMNER.