davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-05
SMART THINGS IN HAND KNITTING
white and black are used by elderly

white and black are used by elderly
wearers
The Shetland wool spencers are best
when knitted, for knitting keeps the
shape in washing better than crochet But
they may be fashioned likewise with
large wooden crochet needle, in which
case the grayish woods, which keep clean
longer. are better than white
These little corset covers are as light
as a feather and are almost as open as
lace. They are largely used by English
women instead of heavier hannels and
many long headed travellers returning
from London bring back a stock of them
AS yet the hand-knitted Shetland spencer
Is dear in this country, $3.50 being asked
for the style which may be bought in
London for three shillings and sixpence
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-05
INDIAN GIRLS DANCING ROBE.
Cheyennes Part With One of the
Treasures of the Tribe.

Tulsa Correspondence st. Louis Globe Democrat
An Indian girl. daughter of Howling
Crane, once the head of the Cheyenne In
dams, recently sold her party gown" to a
syndicate of territorial curio gatherers FOR
$1,000
The garb was old and worn. motheateu
and ragged, yet the price was cheerfully
enthusiastically, the purchase was good
Investment. The dress vas decorated with
72S elk teeth, all very valuable for lodge
jewelry, and the transfer from the original
purchaser 70 eastern jewelry manufae-
turer was made in advance OF the securing
of the teeth at a price that was almost
double the amount the girl-Nannie Howling
Crane-rcceiVed.
AS years go by the number of elk teeth
is growing smaller. while the number of
lodge men wanting teeth is growing larger.
and the result is that the laws of supply
and demand boost the price. Almost any
genuine elk tooth will sell for 81, while the
choice varieties sell for high as $50 each.
The top price is usually paid for a tooth
that Is turning green with age. An elk OF
the male sex produces only two good teeth.
and the robe, therefore. represented 364 elk.
Miss Howling Crane is a rich girl and
could afford all sorts of fine gowns. but she
rather liked the one she sold; still, adverse
circumstances had stricken her father, and
rather than dispose of his ponies to meet
obligations and TO feed himself and family
he carried his daughters party gown" or.
more properly expressing it, her dancing
robe, to the curio collectors and sold it.
When Old Crow, chief of the Cheyennes,
heard of the sale he was broken hearted
and Immediately set out TO get it back, but
he was too late-the robe had been forward
ed to the east by express.
The Cheyennes are land rich, yet often
suffer from extreme hunger. When that
way they sell their all, regardless of the
value. When they get in this shape the
curio hunter invades their homes and the
tinkle of silver ofttimes robs them of ar
ticles they would rather give their lives
than barter away.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-05

which fits the head. are studded with dead
jet beads as large as the thumb nail. For
young widows both hats and bonnets are
faced with white crepe. A striking exam
pie OF all-whte mourning hat shows a
wide brim covered by two circular pieces
OF white silk net edged with narrow folds
of white crepe. Bands of white crepe make
up the crown and a huge, wide-spreading
bow of the crepe finishes 1t In front.
After laying aside the crepe hat and
veil, woman has the entire range of
fashionable shapes from which to choose
her black chapeau. and in reality many wo-
men prefer to don a hat devoid of crepe
during the first period of mourning. As all
straw hats are being worn later in the sea-
son each year. the woman who must pur-
chase black at this season will find that
one of the new shapes of straw in dull An
ish will serve until late In November With
this is worn fine mesh net veil, bordered
by three or four folds OF crepe. or simply
by several rows of surah ribbon In gradu-
ated widths. More becoming than the
plain mesh is net showing the squares of
the mesh meeting at intervals in tiny black
spots This Is called Tuxedo net
Useful for the Fall.
AS soon as the problem of the hat Is set
tied. the article of most Importance is an
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-05

any part Of the costume. If silk or chiffon
is worn, 1t must have an extremely DUH nm
ish Gloves must be of undressed Kid,
shoes of the dullest leather, and the only
form of tewery permissible is the dead jet.
There is but one relieving note for deep
mourning, and that is white crepe. This Is
employed to soften an otherwise severe hat
or to finish the neck and sleeves OF
blouse.
Among some late models of graceful De-
coming hats and bonnets for the early pc
Rod of mourning is a wide brimmed shape
evolved from fold upon fold of waterproof
crepe Quilts of crepe and a crepe bow
adorn the front of the crown and extend
to the left side, where they meet the par
tally upturned brim. At the back of the
ha, the brim Is shaped down to the head,
and from 1t falls two large squares OF SILK
net bordered by six inch folds of crepe.
Found Becoming.
Another mourning hat is built on the tor
pedo boat shape which has proven to be so
becoming to certain faces. wide, plated
friIling and rosette of crepe trims the left
side and an aIl-crepe veil with eight-inch
hem falls from the center of the crown,
over the back of the hat in jabot folds to
the waist line.
Bonnets for holding heavy crepe wells are
built on quite becoming lines. A very
smart model for an older woman is In the
shape of Marie Stuart toque. The upturn-
ed brim of crepe which gives the effect of
low diadem. and the rim Of the bonnet
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-05

frock worn by a recently bereaved mat~0n.
Dull black crepe de Paris formed an eN-
ceptionaIly full skirt laid in fine pleats a
the waist line. with a plain, shaped panel
at the middle of the front, A band Ct
crepe de Paris edged either side by
deep ruchng of the same, finished the bot
tom OF the skirt. Around tho V-shapei
neck of the surpilce bodice was laid L
fichu of fine India lawn, outlined by double
ruches of the same A band edged with
lawn ruches OF the same material finished
the puff elbow sleeves and a yoke OF sheer
chantilly lace filled in the low-cut neck.
One OF the smartest examples OF the late
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-05
Work for Idle Moments That
Does Not Tire.
SEWING AND KNITTING
UP-TO-DATE GIRL LIKES TO
WELD THE NEEDLE.
Bits of Ribbon, Lace and Embroid
cry Converted Into Tasteful
Articles.

NEW YORK, August 3. 1905.
Like the busy bee the wise girl is she
who improves the shining hours of summer
During the out-of-town vacation, whether
1t is long or short. there are many idle
moments on the veranda which may be
turned to fall and winter account While
louaging in hammock or in rustic chairs
listening or talking lazily. the bag or basket
with the piece of pickup work should al
ways be alongside. Occupation for the
hands is subtly soothing to the nerves and
to do little feminine work of some sort
or other should be the pride and pleasure
Of every woman.
or all the employments which present
themselves as suited to porch and piazza
idllngs. knitting and crochet are first A
number Of most valuable garments now
come in hand knitting, and since most of
these are expensive, nine girls out of ten
are denied the comfort of them The hand
made sweater, which is worn all SUMMER
at some resorts. and which soon will be in
dlSpensable, is of supreme Importance as
wei as the little Shetland wool spencer
which with the nrst cool weather is worn
instead OF the corset cover Hand knitted
knickcrbockers are also invaluable for later
use. and these likewise may be made of UNI
lined flannel with the yoke and leg bands
OF silk crochet, run with elastic to keep
them close.
Knitted sweaters which present stylish
aspects. and are most comfortable to the
body, are of double chinchilla wool, in sim
PIE knitting stitch loosely done. More COM
plicated stitches show among the newest
styles, honeycOmb. braid and check pat
terms, the sweaters in these having the high
rolling collars. V-neck finish.
There is no doubt that the vogue of the
sweater Is TO be continued indefinitely. for
no more useful and comfortable garment
exists. The new fall and winter ones are
likely to take more elegant forms than have
yet been shown, and contrasting stripes and
checks are predicted. II the porch girl
feels herself unequal to the task of an en-
tire hand-knltted one, let her attempt
sleeveless vest. which Is almost as useful.
Other Pickup Work.
For those who do not understand knit
ting al all, and who have no wish to ac-
Ouire the Old-fashioned art, the round
crochet shawl makes an admirable piece
Of pick-up-work. which may come in as
Il birthday Christmas present for some
friend or relative The prettiest of these
shawls are of Ice wool. very loosely GRO
Cheted The widening is done at four
POINTS of the round, which brings the
pattern of square all through the
stitches in the shells, increasing till the
border Is quite a frill Sunrise borders
are charming effects with these shawls
a delicate stripping being made with
combination of pale pink, lemon, blue
and white The center of the sunrise shawl
Is also white. The same pretty and sim
pie shawls In all black. gray. violet and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-05

all-black suit which will do service well
Into the fall. Various weaves of mohair
bid fair to be exceedingly popular for the
autumn months and the woman who is
purchasing her mourning suit can choose
no material which will prove more satisfac-
tory than a mohair sicilian in dull black
Rumors from Paris say the fashiona bic
length for the new Jackets will be to the
hip rather than the three-quarter length Of
last years coat of the waist length of the
summers bolero. Skirts are made simple,
save for two or three wide tucks at the
knee line or above the hem. Black skirts,
however should always clear the ground,
as they are so difficult to keep clean. Trail
ing gowns are not the up-to-date insignia
of grief.
The proper waist for this tailored suit is
china silk, simply made and finished
about the wrists and neck with hemstitched
cuffs and collars of white linen laundered
with very little starch.
Great Changes Noted.
1t IS In the house gown, which has be-
. come Indispensable to the modern woman's
wardrobe. that the all-black costume shows
the greatest innovations. The black frock
of the hour for house wear is a marvel of
fine handiwork and delicate lace In the
matter Of materials, crepe de Paris takes
the lead with henrietta cloth as a close
second, and among women who like cling
ing effects there is a lingering fondness for
wolfe and crepe de chine
Wonderfully graceful was an afternoon
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-05
Oninous.
delphia Press.

From the Philadelphia Press.
Pardon me, old man." said the old
boarder but we don't want to lose you
and 1 just want to give you tip that
you'd better think of paying your board"
.'Why?" asked the new boarder.
well. l noticed that Mrs. Starvem was
dangerously polite 10 you this morning."
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-05

AS soon as the problem of the hat is set
tied, the article of most Importance is an
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-08-05

Ask your grocer for Burnett's Vanilla
No state pure food commission has ever
question Ell its absolute purity. Use it.-Advt.
The Montgomery advertiser., 1905-12-17
Being a Cham ing Story ot Modem Society
By OLIVE WINsTON-GAGE, Mobile. Ala.

when he arrived at Challoner Heights. Aunt Letitia, you have to feel either the bangs of love and hatred. to be in- jurcd by my experience; l feel neither.
 The redoubtable Miss Prescott, fled, bitter rage and shame consuming her. and went to. the billiard room where she found the Galley Slave playing. At her mperious summons to follow her. he offered sulky compliance which she was too excited to notice. and when they had reached her favorite summer house, she turned to him. Her color was unbecoming high; for the first time it had reached the critical stage.
 Gross, you asked me d question last week" She glanced at him; the Galley Slave was very dense, she thought.
 Gross. have decided to reward your long unswerving devotion, and--"
 The touch of coarseness came out in him.
 You didn't get the boys scalp. Con- suelo? You are becoming passe."
 The words were not as brutal as his manner.
 "I do not understand you" The words came below her breath.
 He laughed roughly, snapping his fingers gloatingly so near her face she started back, as he retorted:
 "Oh. yes you do, allright--you have had your day. my lady-1 want q reigning conquering beauty-not one who has failed to bag her game
The Montgomery advertiser., 1905-12-17

is utterly unspoIled. one of the most charming boys I ever saw" Thirty seven--mo or less-has q grudge against three and twenty. when they are sirens holding their sway by their beauty, but there was light of triumph, of victory, tho fruits of which | she could taste. In Miss Trescott's large and glittering black eyes. John Challoner entered the room
 with their other guests, his glance rest | ing on his wife for one brief instance, , but to the unsuitable eyes of Miss Tres colt, that fleetinS glance told that Veras place fin his heart reigned su- preme. The coquettc had given more than one bitter hour to young wives, l for the mere pleasure of stalking .he game, and when her victim was duly run down, she assumed injured inno- cence, a role eminently becoming
 There comes Billy" exclaimed John Challoner, some minutes later.
 Going into dinner. Miss Prescott | quietly appropriated Billy. with the assured air of having the right to choose her escort. that brought {. flicker of amusement to young Wynd-
 hams handsome eyes.
 T have heard Vera expatiate so much on you. that I was anxious to meet you; I adore Southerners, and am sure we will be the best of friends she as
 sured him in manner that had proved the undoing of many hapless youths.
 Vera is loyal to her friends and
 lsinspeople. a habit she has not out grown; how pretty ahe is looking" Miss Prescott set her strong white teeth viciously, knowing the signs of anger, her Galley Slave, her most ab- ject admirer tried to propitiate her by
 parading his devotion; she flouted him openly.
 The redoubtable Miss Prescott ansri- l ly declared a week later. that she had failed in capturing Billy. He declined to see her pretty overtures, refused to accept her invitations for a prone
 made. passed in chance meetings the | sequestered hooks the siren beckonet
 him to; ali the ruses that had brought
 infatuated swains to her feet, had fail | ed
 His godmother had arrived from Ar. | lingford, and Miss Prescott slyly crept | to Miss Letitia Houghton's dressing
 room hoping for some admission of | weakness.
 The handsome spinster was listen ing to her favorite godsons comments
 amusedly.
 Aunt Letitia you have seen Miss | Prescott: she is past her first youth | you know she is considered beautiful by many-I simply cannot see 1t; that 1 type of woman takes on flesh and slops
 over at forty-yes. she has passed the | danger line of forty, and looks it. | she'll either slop over in few years. or wear to a thin edge like a worn out
 razor; she'll be the last named think | from disappointment and temper. She
 singled me out for one sided flirta- ] tion-and I have been bored"
 With all your chivalry you have | shown 1t, my boy. and 1t will be the | one thing she will never forgive you
 for; could she have piqued you suffi-
 cientIy for you to hate her, 1t would | have been some balm
 The handsome young face was as unclouded and serene as it had beer
The Montgomery advertiser., 1905-12-17

Duer Clare Benedict. and Rose Young, much of the happiness of the season | is reflected. There are likewise three fine and distlnctively Christmas poems. by John B. Tabb. Laura Spencer Por- tor, and "H," Notwithstanding this delightful wealth of reading In the Christmas vein, the number. like all numbers of the Atlantic. Is rich in var jed articles of interest and Importance Particularly notable are two papers upon dramatic subjects
 James s. Metcalfe. the we'll known dramatic critic of Life" who has re- gently come into such a nadmirable nos toriety for his fight aghainst the syn dicate. contributes a paper. 'Ts the Theatre Worth While?" while Talcott Williams has fine reminiscent and critical paper on the late Sir Henry
The Montgomery advertiser., 1905-12-17

of time. This capacity for living we call the inherent or potential longev- ity.
 Under favorable conditions and envl- ronment tho individual should live out tLe potential longevity. With unfa- vorable conditions this longevity may be greatly decreased, but with a favorable environment the longevity of the person, the family or the race may be increased.
 Herein are presented the two leading considerations, always present and always interdependent-the inherited potentlality and the reactionarY fn- fluences of environment.
 The primary conditions of longevity are that the heart, lungs and digestive organs, as well as the brain. should be large. If these organs are large the trunk will be long and the limbs com paratively short. The person will appear tall in sitting and short in standing. The hand will have long and somewhat heavy palm and short fingers.
 shown by the orifice of the ear being low. The blue hazel or brown hazel eye. as showing an intermisson of tenn perament, is, favorable indication. The nostrils being large, open and free indicates large lungs. A pinched and half-closed nostril indicates small or weak lungs.
 These are general points of distinct ion from those of short-lived tcnden- cies. but, of course. subject to the usual individual exceptions Still. 1t is well acknowledged that the characteristics noted are expressions of inherent po- tentiality. which have been proven on the basis of abundant statistical evil dence.
 In the case of persons who have short-lived percentage on one side and long lived on the other, the question becomes more involved. It is snown in grating and hybridizing that na- ture makes a supreme effort to pass the period of the shorter longevity. Anyone who understands these weak and dangerous periods of life is fore warned and forearmed. It has been observed that the children of long lived parents mature much later and are usually backward in their studies
The Montgomery advertiser., 1905-12-17
SOME SIGNS OF LONG LIFE.
Physician Can Judge by Appearance What Ones Chances Are.

" nut NnHnccB are Medical Record
 Everyone is interested in the quest ion of long life as applied to himself and all facts bearing on 1t are noted with becoming feelings of self-con- graduation or otherwise. It is the staying power that is in demand. back ed by an inherited and reserve vitality of resistance against the usual evils to which all flesh and other perishable things are subject.
 The law of heredity, which our life insurance companies understand so well. is at the bottom of all calcula- tions as to whether a particular man or woman is wound up for seventy years or will run down at twenty or forty years.
 Aside from this testimony there arc certain physical qualities which have great weight in determining the result of the struggle against a conspiring environment. An oak has one con- figuration and cedar pine or null lein stalk another. It is the proper recognition of such distinction that aids physicians in their prognosis and turns the balance against apparently desperate chances.
 Every person carries aDout with him the physical indications of his longev- | ity. A long-lived person may be dis. l tinguished from short-lived person at sight. In many instances a physI. ! clan may look at the hand of a patient and tell whether he will live or die In the vegetable as well as tho uni- nal Kingdom each life takes it's char. acteristics from the life from which it sprung. Among these inherited char acteristics we find the capacity for continuing its life for a given length
The Montgomery advertiser., 1905-12-17
F,g,een-Ceut Cotton.

The Cotton growers of the South. through and with the assistance ol
 their Organization, the Southern Cottoh Association, are slowly put sureIy VIII ming the greatest commercial battle
 ever known to the world. Ihey are
 being applauded by millions or people
 who are watching the great nsht that is being successfully Waged DS them
 to throw off the yoke of thieYlng ana speculative manipulation that has held
 them so long, and has been the means
 of enabling the spinners to grow
 enormously wealthy at the expense of
 the poor farmer.
 Those who stood loyal to the asso-
 citation and accepted it's advice, as
 10 cents per pound on their cotton-de-
 mand it and get it-did so, notwith-
 standing there were thousands who de-
 erred their efforts by saying: "lmpos-
 ton held by the loyal ones was sui
 ficient to bring the price to 10 cents be-
 fore the present crop was ready for market.
 vised the farmers to ask II cents for
 their cotton as conditions fully war
 ranted that price. Many fixed that price and sold for 1t.
 Now, on December 1, the fact that the crop is very short has been estab- | llshed beyond the shadow of a doubt, l and only a small remnant of that left | unsold. also, that the markets are enormously advanced. cotton mills | loaded down with contracts and orders | for goods several months ahead, and only with about one-half enough cot ton in sight to fill them Viii they | pay l5 cents for cotton? Why, of ! course. they will if you ask 1t! If
 you do not they will take 1t at cents as they have done in the past Decide for yourselves-let them have 1t at its actual value. Is cents. or let | them take 1t at their price, 5 cents-it
 is yours-do as you please, but remem- | Der that If you sell for less than its | value, 15 cents, you are not only injur- | ing yourself. but every other owner of | cotton is being denied his price while | you are giving yours away, which pre- vents the advance as long as they can get it at less than its value.
 l Hundreds of thousands of bales are
 being pledged to the Southern Cotton Association for 15 cents. enough to foEcs the price to its value very snNA