The daily morning journal and courier. [volume] (New Haven, Conn.) 1894-1907, 1905-08-05

Neu-1he oFersktrt EOreshadOWed
y the Tunic Skirt.
well known fashion authority urges
Wmen to avoid the mistake of ac-
cnnulating too many gowns. Most of
u think that we are unlikely to fall
Tito such mistake, but in reality al
1pst everybody buys too freely. As a
rule this results not in too many gowns,
but in fewer than we would have if we
purchased with more discretion. 1t is
hard to resist bargains. especially at
this season. when everything is so
cheap and the counters are piled high
with such beautiful fabrics, such
charming blousess, and beautiful dress
accessories. To dress we'll, even when
the income is large, is not the easiest
thing in the word; when the income is
small, dressing becomes an art. The
first rule is simple; never, under any
circumstances, buy pennys worth un-
less you really want It, and know
exactly how you are going to use it.
An article you do not want is dear at
any price.
The wardrobe must be planned each
season. The average woman does we'll
to decide on a few colors, the most be-
coming, and stick to them. Her very
Jewels should be made to harmonic
i with the chosen colors. What is the
use OF owning diamonds if they are not
becoming? OF what use is a necklace
of emerald if green is not included in
ones color scheme? Of course colored
stones may be worn with black or white
but it Is better to consider ones jewels
f In relation to the entire wardrobe. The
first advantage of having q few colors
Is economy. One silk petticoat one
hat, one wrap, ETC., may be made to go
twice or three times as far as they
would IL many colors had to be match
ed. Another advantage is that one
gains certain individuality in her APP
pearance. A certain artists wife con-
fines her colors to black, white and yell
low. She never departs from these
hues and the result is that she Is call
ed handsome without actually being
more than fine looking. She is always
perfectly dressed, and the harmony of
her gowns, hats, jewels. flowers. and
accessories is most attractive,
one need not carry the limitation
quite as far as this A dark woman
might choose navy blue, brown, yell
low and white, with perhaps a little
red and bright green carried into the
trimmings of her hats. A blonde wo-
man would substitute black for brown,
and mauve or violet for yellow Stick
to these colors year after year, the
wardrobe would soon become harmoni-
Gus and distinctive.
The study of harmony in color is we'll
worth while to the careful dresser
The most exquisite combinations are
seen in beds of pansies or nasturtiums,
or in hudrangeas. If one can conquer
the feminine shudder, there in nothing
more beautiful than a richly-hued cat
erpiller or a painted butterfly. All
E0rfs of color hints are to be gained
By keeping ones eyes open to nature.
Having selected ones colors, it is
comparatively easy to decide on the
number Of gowns one needs in season.
1T is also much easier to avoid buying
useless things. If one buys ahead of
the season, there is much less proba-
bility Of selecting the wrong thing, Of
course, white will be included in every
scheme. 1t is perhaps not we'll enough
realized that black is not becoming TO
every type. In fact. black is not an
easy color to wear. 1t should be avoid
ed by the middle-aged woman, the thin
woman and the sallow woman. A
blooming young girl can wear it, and
It seems to be the right thing for the
average aged woman. Others should
wear it discreetly. But white is near
~ always becoming. From infancy
to old age 1t is appropriate, and, gen.
orally speaking, it is economical.
White, the trade journals say, will be
more popular next year than it has
been this or previous seasons. The
buyer will, therefore, take every adj
vantage Of white sales in the shops.
There are still many tempting bar
gains in unmade robes, embroidered
and lace trimmed. Waists too, are
to be had for very little. A dress
length Of white mohair offered at low
1 price ought to be snapped up. There is
no doubt at all Of the enduring quail
J ties of lnohair. White serge is beau
tiful, but is only appropriate for strict
III tailored gowns. Mohair, on the 9TH
Ell hand, is made up in informal gowns
with boleros, to wear over lingerie
waists. A more serviceable all-round
gown is not to be had. Other white
goods predicted for next season are
dotted and figured Swisses, linens fine
and coarse, and all sheer white mater
ials, plain surfaces leading.
Silks will probably be somewhat
s higher priced next season. At least,
4 the higher prices which raw silks are
4 commanding at present seem to ind-
cate this. Raw silk is now about Ii
per cent higher than it was year
s ago. There is no indication that the
3 output will soon be increased, and the
4 demand is very large.
lit is said that veiings will not be
worn after this fall, but this is hard
to believe. Certainly nothing in the
advance models of gowns shows a d.
nlinution of the vogue of soft, clinging
q materials. It is possible that the plait-
ed skirt has seen its best days, but In
its stead comes the full-shirred and
" gagged skirt The number of yards OF
goods that go into fashionable skirt
i nowadays is appalling. The coming
skirt is even wider than anything seer
- ~. 80