The San Francisco call., 1905-05-07

very beautiful and extremely rich look
ing, but they are. OF course. so costly
as not to be lightly considered Ths
combination of white linen and Irish
lace is particularly effective one. On
dark shirt waist sUiES perfectly plain
turnover collars and cuffs should Be
worn The effect is more that OK a
tailor-made suit. This style OF suit In
purely American French women
would scorn to wear any 5arb so sim
pie and so severe. They rarely wear
the short skirt. but greatly prefer .
long, fluffy skirt. which can be held up
with the hand. to display the mysteri-
Gus lacy ruffies Of the lingerie beneath
French lady told me in Paris that
when she first encountered the Amert-
can women on Fifth avenue In Now
York she came to the conclusion that
they were all clad in some kind Of uni-
form!
There is but little more now to say
on the subject of cuffs. particularly be-
cause the short elbow sleeves are very
much worn this year What may Dc
called the elbow cuff is In reality not
exactly cuff. but only a finish to tbs
sleeve. which extends only to a point a
little below the elbow IL appears to
be a broad turn-back cuff which flares
out at the top and fits snugiy at ths
bottom.
For mourning collars and cuffs must
be made of white organdie OF the best
quality, with a half-inch hem all
around showing the black Of the dress
through the diaphanous material or
the cuff
Belts.
Belts OF all kinds and descriptions
will be worn this year. but it must be
borne in mind that belt is not mere
ly an accessory. but is really an i'm
portant feature of complete costume.
The variety of belts is somewhat be-
wildering. but choice must be made
with reference not only to the dress.
but also TO the figure To go into par
ticulars. which are perhaps already ac-
cepted principles, a high girdle should
not be placed on a stout figure, because
the size of the waist is thereby ac-
centuated, and ii should also be avoid
ed by a very thin person. because IL
presents a somewhat "lathy appear
ance. This year the fashion of belts IS
very high in the back. sloping grace
ully down to the front, where the belt
Is gathered in by some sort of efective
buckle, according to the taste or the
wearer. / saw an exceedingly pretty
one the other dav. which was made or
white silk, fan-plaited at the back, the
plaits gathered in the center and neld
by rosette The sides were shirred
and the ends were brought round 10
the 'front.' where they were held by
long buckle. A belt of this kind Is IN
tended to be worn with white SILK
waist or suit White leather belts are
still being worn a great deal They are
always considered pretty and they are
certainly convenient and available, be-
cause they can be worn with all sorts
of gowns. They are shaped this year
more than last and are now quite niSn
IN the back. tapering down in the 'front.'
to the size of the buckle. For summer
wear and for use in the country the
really proper thing is the linen belt.
which can be very elabOrately or very
simply made. In the matter or these
linen belts they can easily be made at
home, whereas they are expensive TO
buy a considerable portion OF the COST
being for the style of them.
The directions are simple enough.
For a pl. N linen belt, cut a strip OF
linen about six inches wide and make
a narrow hem at the top and bottom
of it. AT one end OF IT work three or
faur small round buttOn-holes and
turn the edges neatly into point. At
tach a pretty buckle at the other end,
and the belt is finished. To elaborate
this belt it will be easy TO insert medal
lions of lace or embroidery in the back
and the effect is charming A very
good straight front" girdle, fastening
ing IN the back, can be made OF soft
liberty satin cut on the bias and eight
inches in width Attach a piece OF
bOnecasing down the center Two
inches shorter than the satin and in
sert a whalebone. Then lay the satin
In soft folds and tack firmly to the
bonecasing. At the back turn the ends
in and gather about half an inch from
each end, thus making little head
ing for a finish. Then sew on bone
casing, also two. inches shorter than
she satin, next to the gathering. and
insert a ~halebone. Sew the hooks and
eyes on the honecasing- When hooked
together the two gathered ends Will
meet, making a fine finish and COM
pletely eoncealing the hooks "A great
many OF the silk belts are edged with
leather, but this does not seem to me
TO be at all attractive. but ON the con-
trary a very bad combination 1t IS
apparently an effort to find something
new, which is most likely TO prove
failure.
Now again I lay stress upon the fact
that the belt or girdle is in reality an
essential part of any costume and must
be made or selected with as much care
and attention to the dress and to the
figure as any other part Of the en-
semble effect ELIZABETH AMES-