The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-01-15

or neat little knitted vests of wool. Nsle
thread, or silk thst come especially for that
purpose. and 50 are quite as warm ss waists
made of wool OF other materials
The art of properly dressing the neck
and ii il an aIt- il understood by few, dress
makers included indeed there Ia no surer
test OF dressmaker's skill, unless 1t be the
putting in Of sleeves- Most women, while
realizing that something is wrong, nre moi
able TO tell lust what it Is nor how 10 rectify
IL. For such few suggestions mny be
helpful and not come amlss.
collar should never be shaped unleS'
for very short, thick neck, and then II
il only necessary at times, when the throa;
Is not well formed in front. For slender
or long neck there is never the slightest
need for shaping tho collar If 1t IL attached
10 the waist In the proper manner. To
do this bias piece Of canvas In out. This
Il fitted 70 tho neck. and from this pattern
h made the finished collar
II the collar ia OF very sheer material a
paper pattern should be cut and the goods
basted 10 it. TO keep the perfect shape,
and whatever trimming 1t ia TO have IL 10
be done bofons the basting threads arc re-
moved.
Canvas or other interlining should never
be used Ii Is always ungraoefu and stiff
looking. and even featherbone foundation
collars arc apt to give bunRlc 'ome appear
anoa unless the very thinnest kind is used
The best. and 10y far the most satisfactory,
means for holding the collar up and keep
ing It in good condition IA 10 Use whale
bone cut in very thin strips and covered
win linen tape. The linen tape IA strong
enough 10 prevent the whalebone from
rushing through and, If IL be used IN a
collar that ia to De washed will last M long
as II il worn. whereas II silk tape IL used
il il only "a matter Of very short time
before the bone- push through. Moreover
after one washing II becomes 10 yelioW
that il shows very plainly through Lace OF
other thin goods
home made as the lack OF that touch OF
genius IN collar and Guns that is seen on
almost all French gowns ana y the despair
Of most cheap dressmakeT@. ne 7''clet 4"
1t il not lard 10 learn and II TO be iQund
ia the fac, that all well made gowns nave
collar. and cuffs that NJ. not the sort OF
thing That any one could put on but things
that will III rho person for whom iheY are
intended and no one else, unless sA- mop
pens To be- exactly the same size
Most French made collars are slightly
higher ~ The, back than m tie front, as
most women uecks need That extra height.
especially ~ inev grow Older and IA max
ing separate -to,-li- aud collars AZ J. well To
r'luein)e Der THIS fact.
All sorts ~ oyrIy things for The neck
AN. made Of the popular cut ont emOroid-
cr7. Especially attractive II let that IL
Finished yith fri,ls Of fine side plated or
candle The cdgcs Of the plaiung ara
finished with a very narrow rea! lace edge,
and the cuff, fa,ten with tiny buttons
and buttouhole-, az doe also The collar.
In tho matter Of clhs It II quite n I'M
portapt that they III closely a. in that of
collars for cUls or sleeves through which
the hand may be easily slipped ara always
entirely too large are awkward and I'M
lovely IN the extreme, and should never
I've found on anything that il made 70 order,
though. unfortunately. such is by no means
the nvariable rule.
To insure q cuH fitting properly II is
necessary 70 have il fasten after the hand
mas been uassad through. and while some
women think this a great nuisance the
added style n gives TO a gown more than
repavs for the little extra trouble in fasten-
ing II.
Small: hooln and cyclists, small busonA