Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-01

is In long hip length with velvet inserted
collar and quantity fashioned sleeves.
Fall and winter hats are worn by almost
every woman one meets. and, indeed, they
differ slightly from those we have seen
during the late summer that 1t is at first
hard to distinguish new creation. when
the second glance Is taken one appreciates
the subtle change. Ii has been proved be-
yond doubt that In millinery velvet is used
more than any other material. with smooth
felts. beaver, chenille and cloth all in evil
dence. Ostrich tips a favorfte trim
ming, but the smart Rue de la Paix artIstes
continue their devotion to birds of paradise.
tinted birds and wings of all impossible
varieties. Some of the feather turbans
worn this fall are particularly fetching. es-
pec;ally the shaded brown effects. fruit
reds, greens and blues.
The large hat movement which began IN
Paris last summer has materialzed, also
the moderately high crown, which has sure
ly arrived. The Lambelle crown. soft and
puffy. united with curling picture brms
covered with plumes. is a stunning crea-
ton. But even at its greatest height the
picture hat of the moment retains a stIm.
prim, severe air. Later in the season a new
shape may appear which will go far ahead
of the present models in chic, but from the
outlook of today continentals, the marquis
and tricorne hats have things their own
way. There is. though, the most absurd
little hat that a few smart PariSianS are
taking up. 1t is a kind of Amazon with
high crown slightly rounded and a Curled
brim. This mannish affair has for its trim
ming roll of velvet about the crown. with
a knot at the sides holding in place few
ostrich tips or wings and perhaps the al
ways to be depended upon quill.
Moire silk and ribbons promise to be
much used this winter, the former for
gowns and waists, and the latter for trim
mings on wool and net fabrics. A number
of skirts have at the bottom grad
uated bands of MORE ribbon, often extend
ing quite to the knees.
Ribbon and lace frocks, as L ventured to
predict earlier in the season, are to be re-
vived and are coming rapidly to the fore
among those who can afford the extrav-
agance represented by their handWork. 1t
is not probable that We shall be asked to
rest content with the neutrality-suspicious.
ribbon effects of yore. and 1t is only ques-
ton of time when Zigzag, diagonal, waved
and long dovetailed points Will put in a
fashionable claim. For tea gowns the lace
and ribbon combination is meeting with de-
cided success.
The lingerie waist is to have another tr-
umphant run this year. and quite the latest
and prettiest bodices are those of English
embroidery worn over a slip of colored taft
feta silk. Speaking of silk, the Picking va
riety which to the French mind usually
takes the guise of black and white stripes,
is to be very smart this winter Tor waist
coats and revers. The manufacturers are
also givins; us other effects in this fabric
for instance, white in contrast with pale
tints I have just one last bit of parting
instruction to bestow: Do not essay a prif-
cess gown<unless you can have 1t made by
a first-clas;s house. Rather content your
with skirt and girdle of the same ma
terial and have them stitched securely to-
gether. There is little recognizable differ
ence. CATHERINE IALboi-