The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-09-02
THE FASHIONS.
FALL HINTS IN PARIS FASHION
 SKETCHES.


 Promised-variabIe Weather Adds
 Popularity of Separate Coats-Dan-
 cing Gowns of the sensOn.
 The reign of the full skirt is to con- tinue for some time tozcome. apparent ly. Looking over portfolio of croquis, sketches sent over by Paris designers, it was evident that it is going to take just as appalling an amount of dry goods to make the fall gowns as it did last spring. Sleeves are little smaller, but skirts extremely full. It must have been an imaginative manufacturer of dress materials who invented the fash ion of shirrings between box plaits. That was piling it on, and one marvels at the audacity of the dressnaker who launched the first. It took, and we are now resigned to the extra five yards. The ingenuity of the dressmakers has been taxed to cut the full skirts in such a manner that they will not bunch around the waist. They have succeed ed in making a skirt which fits smooth ly, over and falls in very voluminous folds around the feet
 Several of the sketches showed re- vival of the graduated flounee. Plain front panels as aporn fronts, were prominent, and there were all kinds of tunics, strongly suggestive of over skirts.
 It is plain that soft fabrics such as cashmeres, fine hroadcloths, velvets, and velveteens. will be used great
 deal. Plaids will be fashionable Plaid house gowns with chemisettes and
 undersleeves are always pretty. For school dresses green ands blue plaid and even tartans are old favorites.
 The sketches showed some ry4setsi-
 ble short skirts. They were very short,
 indeed, as designed. but 1t is presurna-
 ble that the wearer may chose her own skirt length after adopting her design
 A great deal has been written about
 the decline of the trained skirt. The
 fact is, walking gowns and dancing
 gowns are made short. All others, such
 as dinner, theatre, and home gowns for
 afternoon wear, are almost invariably long. Trains are almost necessary on la handsome gown. They make all the
 difference in the world in the general appearance of a woman. @ If she is
 short, the train gives her height. A
 short skirt on tall woman is never
 agreeable. #,E.
 A description of some of the slSecthes
 may be of interest. One gown was a
 inauve satin cloth. and was meant for
 cerernonious day wear. It had a
 shirrcd skirt with two wide folds simu-
 lating tucks, and was lntrimmed save
 for these folds, There was delightful
 little. Directoire jacket, sharply pointed
 in front; and fastened with a double row of enamelled buttons with gilt
 edges. The jacket had yoke or un-
 derbody of heavy Irish crochet and
 pointed collar and lapels of "a deeper
 shade of mauve velvet. The sleeves
 were short puffs of the cloth shirred at
 the bottom. The lower two-thirds of the sleeves were tight fitting, and
 draped in the seams.
 Many draped bodices, by the way were observed. The draping was ex.
 mely gracefull and ingenious in all et the . gown. One gown of tobacco brown in some kind of thin faciie cloth
 WELSt UAdAC WILL very IuII ShiEI IEUII knees to hem all around to admit point ed gores of brown lace; lighter in color than the cloth. There was a very deer pointed yoke of the lace, and the waist was shirred to the yoke and gathered : in the under-arm seams, making a full draped bodice. A high pointed girdlt was fastened with @ long gilt buckle , The top of the buckle and the end ot the pointed lace yoke just escaped l meeting.
 The number of Empire models ont sees are sure to multiplied when the first of the autumn gowns appear. Ever ? now the trend towards Empire fashion. | Is shown in the short-wais4ed coats oi } every description worn by women oi fashion. They are very becoming these coats, and everybody will be : glad to see more of them. Of course z l stout figure is not graceful in short } waisted garment of any kind. Tall l slender women and small women re, 5 joice in them.
 - A pretty coat in dark blue rajah sill was made with the waist line line higl
 under the arms and dipping slightly il 5 front. The waist had a little vest O : velvet and was outlined on eithel 5 side of the vest and around the wais - with flat bias band of the silk seweC l on by hand. In front the band wai l ornamented with four handsome sill I passementeries, with long silk fringes 1 A similar ornament trimmed the shor - puffed sleeve. which was further em \ bellished with two ruffles of marrow f Valenciennes. The skirt of the coa F was shirred and hung below the knees f Several white and chalk-coIored liner coats, covered with cutwork and cycle , embroidery, were made on Empire lines , These coats have been conspicuous a country horse shows recently. They are fascinating garments, very costl, , as rule, but not extravagantly st r when picked up near the end of tn
 season. The embroidery with whicl f they are covered is so beautiful that tn , coats may later be cut up for yokes |, etc.
 2 The summer has been so variable fl . the matter of weather that the vogu a of the linen an dother separate coats i
 not to be wondered at It has not beel , possible to wear many thin gowns sine
 the short hot spell in July. Beside f simpel muslins seem to be relegated t.