New-York tribune., 1905-01-01
OLD TOLEDO FAIR WEEK.
Picturesque Scenes IN Quaint Spanish
CitU
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tage the Piazza Navona in Rome and the
hardly less noted Rastro of Madrid, is indeed
the favorite haunt of those in pursuit of such
i ementos of travel as brass candlesticks, an
uluated side arms, small and the like.
Eomot-nes one runs a fair in which there
II more of interest in the buyers and sellers
tlan in the objects vended Doubtless it would
Il hard to find more favorable site for the
a-udy of the peasant in his native environment
than at one of the annual fairs held in some of
i'!e less traversed provinces of Spain.
Toledo to be sure is not particularly out
o-the-way place Sooner later nearly all |
travellers in Spain find their way to Toledo but |
always in the spring. The third week in Au-
gust however, is the chief gala time of the |
ToiedaEi. Here everything is Spanish to the
core. Here is an end to the cosmopotanism of
Madrid. Here are walters with faces like those |
OF the bullfghters one sees fans. Here are
well-to-do farmers who dash up the narrow cob
bly streets on mettlesome horses that wear |
trapplngs only to glance at which makes one |
coVetous. Here, on every side are picturesque
doorways half ajar, that give one tempting
Slimpses of cool patios within. Here at every
hand S turn. are betrayed hints of Roman Vsi-
gothic, Saracen and Christian occupation shown |
IN these same doorways, in suddenly disclosed |
gates. in fascinating windows, grated with iron |
lattices in a thousand unexpected architect
ural instances. Here in fine is a corner of the |
ieal spain which keeps all ones pet illusions |
intact especially in the complete absence of the
all-disturbing element that tourist throng in
evitably introduces.
Inc writer's visit began with an inspection of !
the cathedral The sunlight fell snuareIv on |
the huge rose window over the doors of the |
facado, and its transfused beams cast on the |
hght colored pillars and vauItng shafts soft
glow that made the whole interior seem unreal !
of To
dressed as for some important function |
Bevies of girls hovered about, draped with
their subtly embellishirg mantIas But q
greater air of genuine devotion was to be re-
marked in the faces of the kneeling throngs of |
peasantry, come long distances for the animal |
event of the fair All at once the Bishop en- |
tered, attended by escort of priests candle
bearing Leophytes and cushion bearer and |
preceded by a bewisged and wholly medieval |
appearing quartet of azotaperros (dog scourg- ,
ers). whose function to clear the way by |
peremptOrily rappng the floor with metal shod |
slaves. The procession repaired to the espe- |
clally holy chapel of the Virgen del Sagrario, |
Wlthh an 1nnermost recess of which rePosed |
on triumphal exceedingly hideous and |
particularly venerable image of the Virgin I
This is fashioned of wood, turned black with |
age, and from top to toe is decked with multi !
farious pendent jewels. Before this chapel the !
Bishop together with his attendant body of !
priests, knelt in prayer. The organs now be- |
gan to sound, and the Bishop made his way to |
the spacious choir, the richly carved walnut |
stalls of which depict the conquest of Granada |
The Virgins next hauled out and |
preceded by the Bishop, made a solemn circuit |
of the cathedral, stopping four times for sing |
ing and prayer. during which the throng kneIt |
with him.
After dusk had conn, ely fallen one heard |
from the tiny park or miradero that overlooks |
the Tagus Valley to the north OF Toledo proper |
the sounds of merry-go-round music in the di- |
minutive suburb just outside the city walls
called ArrabaL The large. tree framed park |
there below was illumined with numberless coll
ored lights. which We'd with the spendor of a |
nearly full moon. Toward o'clock a sort of |
medieval procession, composed of what one |
might not unjustly call the various guilds of |
Toledan artisans assembled in costume on |
horseback in the animated Plaza de Zocodover
and hence wound their way down through the
Puerta del Sol. with torches waving in the |
unquiet air and two br. SIS bands thunderirg |
out most unmartial mazurkaS. One had only
to follow this picturesque cavacade as far as |
the park in order tC reach the m.riad booths
whose proprietors Valorously endeavoring
to outshout one another in lauding their various
wares. By this time the entire population of |
Toledo seemed jammed in the roomy rectangle |
that made up the park, and one found II not |