Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-03-26
FROM ACROSS THE SEA
Ri Its ON MEMS DRESS FROM THE
ENGLISH CAPITAL.
The Question Of the External Breast
Pocket Again Being Discussed
Correct Jacket Suit.
From the Haberdasher.

From the Haberdasher.
| Considering that the absence of an ex-
| ternal breast pocket, commonly called the
handkerchief pocket, has been the distin-
| gushing mark of jackets. as well of
coats, for SO long, it is rather startling to
find a new and decidedly fashionable jacket
| lounge suit in vogue, which not only has
the long-lacking pocket but actually two
OF 1t, and these pockets made as con-
spicuous as possible. To descend to particu-
/ lars, the new jacket is single-breaster, cut
fairly long, and with a four-inch opening in
the middle of the back 1t is made with
patch-pockets, all fairly large, and each
supplied with button and button-hole.
| The general style of the garment is not
| greatly different from what is being worn
| In ordinary lounge SUITS except that the
| fronts are rather less rounded away at the
| bottom. The explanation offered concern
| ing TINS innovation, is that the old style of
jacket, with an external breast pocket on
the le1t, presented one-Sided appearance
This would be very legitimate excuse for
| the change from one-pocket to two-pocket
| styles Tor, rather, from three pockets to
| Iour)' out as an explanation of the depart
| ure from the rule of no outside pocket at
| all, 1t seems inadequate. l think that the
professional writer's who thus explain the
change might have found better story by
| iOohiiiS a iiltic ueepeT. ne TACT IS, that d
man needs to carry handkerchief some
where 1t makes decidedly unsightly pro-
tuberance If carried in an inside breast
pocket and, while this is not bettered by
the pocket being outside, 1t is at least ac-
counted for to the Observers mind But
what does not seem to have occurred to
the mind of the designers of this Jacket
ana OF the professional expositors of it's
style, is that d coat with four pockets like
this ought to be double-breasted OF course
the application of this principle would have
been Immediately fatal to the invention
No double-breasted garments are being
worn TINS spring by men who know how to
dress.
Jacket Suits.
While on the subject of jacket suits. 1
may perhaps be allowed to refer to a point
Of etiquette which is being somewhat dis
cussed. Although it is not now so fire.
quently used the custom of a bride being
married in travelling suit was at one time
considered rather smart. The question now
raised is whether, in the event of the bride
electlng to dispense with all the f1ummery
OF Vells, white satin, orange blossoms and
SO 1orth, the groom will not be justified, or
even be actually required by the principles
O. chlValrous Difference, to eschew the Gus
tomary frock coat outfit, and approach the
altar IN suit of dittoes. A great fuss was
recently raised about this by people who
evidently did not know that at a fashion,
able wedding not long ago, the jacket suit
was actually worn by the bridegroom
lhough the best man. and the guests APP
peared In full dress. AS matter of fact
the circumstances in this particular case
give the clew to the real solution Of a Dues
tlon which can never have perplexed any
really well-bred man. There was no brides
reception In this wedding; the couple drove
straight from the church to a railroad sta
ton and caught the afternoon boat to the
continent for their honeymoon. 1t is now
only usual for bride to be married in
q hrao
is deprived of its chief ornament by her
absence. Where this rule is kept 1t would
De perfectly good manners for the groom to
be married, he also, in travelling costume
But where from mere caprice and from
not knowing the real law of present fashion
In the matter the bride appears in mufti
although she is going to hold her reception
as soon as the ceremony is over the BRIDE
groom should appear in full dress which
means black frock coat, fancy gray waist
coat, hight check trousers. wing collar with
rounded points, silk hat, gray glace gloves
ana full cravat with pearl pin-the Gus
tomary accessories.
A new collar is on the market, or will be
by the time you have these lines in print.
The somewhat senseless title of 1.-The Nov
city has been given to it by its inventors.
AS 1t is a sound idea, it will probably
catch on and remain popular for q LONG
=, .iEhe; consequently there is every hope that
II Will cease to be novelty long before it
gets to the end of Its run. The name is the
only silly thing about it, however 1t is a
1old collar, with the fronts prolonged and
folded back wing fashion, so as to nroduce
very directive combination of the wing
and fold effects. Apparently the manufac-
turers design it for full dress use because
they nave made the wings round al the
points. These should have been sbarn
Later on, if the idea should have the RIM
which L really think that it deserves If
may come into dress use. 1t has the adj
vantage OF meeting long-felt want be-
cause it conceals the band of the cravat
The difficulty will be in inducing peonIe to
wear even modified double-collar except
with jacket. and to wear a wing collar
even with a fold basis with a jacket suit.
But the new invention has quite enough
merit to push 1t past prejudices of this kind.
am glad to say that, despite what has
from time to time been contended to the
contrary. no one of the least fashionable
consequence wears a fold collar with
frock or morning coat or with evening dress
or with any formal clothes
Summer Hats.
Summer hats, of course, begin to be
thought of long before the INDUCED summer
man finds them ready to his head in his IA
vorlte hat store; and already one new thing
very likely to catch on is being prepared for
sale This is the Panama boater. boa ter
or straWyard' is, of course, the regulation
shaped stiff straw hat with a low. vertical
hat-topped crown, worn from time imme-
mortal on the Thames and other (but as
every true boating man here maintains,
greatly inferior) rivers. | had occasion last
year to explain why the regular shaped
Panama had fallen from its high estate as
the smart river hat. The limitations killed
1t for really fashionable use Now the old
boater Get us face the matter Squarely) is
far from being an entirely satisfactory
headgear. 1t is stiff on the forehead where
on hot day, it soon makes a red semi-cir-
cular mark; it blows off very easily and
though light, it is not very cool / think
that the fashionable hat on the Thames
which l suppose has good deal to do with
setting river fashions the world over will
this year be the new Panama boater that |
have just mentioned. 1t is made of the real
Panama grass, but need not have the fold
Its SoftneSS will make it far more comfort