davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1905-07-02
For the Gilded Fan

The embroidered linen belts are
seen both in straight and crushed gir-
dies They are of all shades, embrold-
cred in self colors or in contrasting
shades, in silk or in linen thread, In
open or closed embroidery and in elab-
crate or simple design, as fancy die
tates.
Many grades and weaves Of linen are
also used, but the medium weight is
most desirable. A very heavy, coarse
quality is apt to look too starchy after
laundering.
Leather belts. owing to the en-
croachment of the linen and silk ones.
are not seen i'm anything like their
usual numbers this season. Even when
they are seen they have so departed
from the tailor-made simplicity that
one expects from them that they are
hardly to be known for leather. They
have Joined this seasons devotion TO
decoration and are quite as elaborate
and decorative as the Powered silk
ones and even more expensive.
Other materlals-silk, satin. metal.
Los Angeles herald., 1905-07-02

little bows made of the material of
the girdle and having two loops and
two ends are placed at equal intervals
down the front row of shlrring.
Three more bows are placed in the
same manner on the back rows. A belt
somewhat like this one, which is very
popular for the lowered silks and en-
broidered materials, is Of about the
same depth all around. deepening only
very slightly at the front and back.
1t also has shirring down the front and
back but none at the sides. as. being
of uniform shape. it can keep in place
without 1t.
Nothing indeed, is more popular this
season that the lowered glrdle. It is
TO be found in pompadour silk. satin.
flowered chiffons and nets, in fabrics
embroidered I'm colors and in hand
painted materials. Embroidered linen
belts are equally a craze Of the sea-
son. but naturally these are more
especially to be used with the more
severe wash gowns for morning wear,
golfing, etc.
Los Angeles herald., 1905-07-02

velvet and silk elastic-are made up
with the leather. One very attractive
model is made of strips of white kid
alternating with strips of white elias
tic of equal width, with the kid In
front and back. but narrowing very
much on the sides, thus shaping the
belt gracefully to the figure. The kid
is covered with design in gilt span
giles. A very deep gilt buckle OF an
elaborate fligree design clasps the
belt Another leather belt shown at
most exclusive establishment was
of pale blue kid and white satin.
The kid was in three strips in front
and back, spaced wide apart, between
which spaces the white satin was
stretched. At the sides the belt mar
rowed very much, so that the top and
bottom strips Of leather came togeth-
er. The buckle and back piece Of
this belt were OF the pale blue leather.
with a centerpiece Of white. The
buckle was very large and OF Pc
culiarly noticeable shape.
Los Angeles herald., 1905-07-02

that return to narrow belts is inn
minent, but this seems to show evi-
dences of inspiration at the hands OF
the fat lady. whose wish for the re-
turn Of narrow belts is probably moth
er to the rumor. The slender girl will
continue to rejoice in wide and gorge
Gus girdles.
A very great favorite among soft
girdles to be worn with thin white
gowns or fragile evening and after
noon costumes of any shade is made
of chiffon. liberty silk or chif-
fon taffeta in rainbow shades
and Is shirred at three places.
This girdle is wide at the
front and back and narrower at
the sides 1t is gradually rounding In
its curves, the very pointed belt not
being so much in vogue at present as
the one having the more easily slop-
ing lines. The girdle has three rows
Of shirring made on whalebone down
the front. two rows, also on bones
at each side, and three rows at the
back, where II is fastened. Three stiff
Los Angeles herald., 1905-07-02

France, and determined the style of
other times, was one when the ques-
tionable taste of the Louis Quartorze.
style was degenerating into the rococo.
Hence the decorations are for the
most part artificial landscapes in the
Vatican manner-maudlin pastorals
and vitiated pseudo classical and
neurological subjects. A more suit
able style IF decoration, as it seems to
me. is one in which paintings of nat
ural flowers are employed, as a faith
full copy of anything beautiful in ma
ture is always pleasing, and the work
of delineation is also healthy one for
the painter In speaking of the man
ufacture of the fan, we shall have to
distinguish between it's two parts, the
fan stick and the mount, as these form
two separate branches of industry
The materials for the sticks are ivory,
pearl, bone, wood and more especially
sandalwood, from it's fragrant SMELL.
tortoise shell, horn and sometimes
filigree work in the precious metals.
The most elaborate sticks are in ivory
and Of Chinese workmanship. The
carving on some of these may be said
to represent the labor of years. The
manufacture of fans for the European
market has formed an important
branch of industry in China for nearly
two centuries, and more especially in
carving these richly sculptured ivory
sticks.
Early in the seventeenth century
Chinese workmen were even brought
to Paris for the purpose of producing
Los Angeles herald., 1905-07-02

them in that capital. Next to the Chi
nese in this art are the French, who
still produce more especially at Dieppe,
very beautiful examples of fan sticks
in ivory. The mother of pearl sticks
are also elaborately carved, and, in
addition, sometimes gilded richly The
commoner material, such as wood and
bone, is more frequently decorated
with pressed work only. Metal sticks
are comparatively rare, but among
those contributed to the South Ken
sington collection is a curious example
formed of silver. This fan is remark
able as having belonged to the unfor-
tunate queen, Marie Antoinette. The
mounts are usually composed of paper,
leather or vellum, silk, taffeta, lace
or other light material and these are
generally adorned with gliding, span
giles, etc., according to the material
and the makers taste, In preparing
the mount the first process is to stretch
the material on a frame and to mark
out its semi-circular form. On this
the design is traced and painted. When
sufficiently dry it Is taken off the
Los Angeles herald., 1905-07-02

spoken of is best suited for being var
nished, which at the same time gives
an additional luster to the work and
tends to preserve it. In the age of
Louis XIV a coach painter named Mar
tin attained to considerable celebrity
by varnish which he invented for
finishing and heightening the color OF
fans. The "vernis- Martini forms one
of the most valued excellencies of the
high priced fans of that period; but the
exact secret of his varnish died with
him. A fine copal varnish will, how
ever. answer the purpose sufficiently
well. but this must be laid on with
camePs hair pencil and confined to the
painted part only unless the whole
surface of the silk be previously pre-
pared with isinglass.
OF fans made wholly of hard ma
terial, as ivory, wood, etc., we do not
propose to speak at length, as the
making of them demands highly skilled
labor and cannot well be practised ty
the amateur. There is, however, no
difficulty which will prevent any one
from making the sticks necessary for
the mounted fan. The two outer, or
master sticks" will give most trouble,
but they may be made by mechanical
ingenuity. For the inner sticks.
veneers of any close grained wood,
such as greenheart, tulip, pear, ETC., or
ivory, may be bought and be cut into
strips of the required length, which will
rarely exceed ten inches. The breadth
would be about half an inch. About
eighteen or twenty of these strips
would be required, and the master
wood, and about three-sixteenths OF
an inch in thickness. The whole should
be laid in the order in which they win
occur in the fan when closed, and
screwed tightly together with clamps.
Two paper patterns or gauges of the
proposed outline of their sides should
be prepared, and be pasted on the outer
sides of the master sticks. Guided by
these, the whole Of the sticks can be
reduced to the required outline with a
oidi ilAN az q oiibAS OPSA ohiOhs ~ iViC
being drilled through all at the bottom
for the rivet, the sticks may then be
released from the clamps and the mas
ter sticks rounded on their outer edges
with a file and afterward carefully
smoothed with sandpaper.
Their inner surfaces. as well as those
of the other sticks, will require reduc-
ing to state of perfect smoothness
with sandpaper, coarse being first used
and afterward fine. They are then pol
ished by rubbing with a place Of soft
wood. II saw piercing be employed -
decorate them 1t must be done before
the Anal operation of sandpapering Il
performed. This, with the exception Of
the vanishing, win complete the part
of the sticks which will remain visible;
but the portions to which the mount
viii have to be attached, except in the
case of the master sticks. will have to
be tapered by fling away the wood, not
only from the sides, but also from the
front and back.
AS the riveting, though a simple OPP
Grafton, demands special tools, Il would
be better TO give the job to a ieweler;
there is also some little danger ef
splitting the wood II this be clumails
done.
Los Angeles herald., 1905-07-02

stretching frame. 1t is then laid upon
a board, on which grooved lines radi-
ate from a center. On this the mount
Is fastened and marked with a blunt
instrument resembling an ivory paper
knife, along the grooves.
How the Fan Is Made
The line thus formed indicates the
future folds of the fan. In doing this It
is necessary to take care that the lines
do not cross any important part of the
design, such as the head or face of a
figure. The mount is now folded at the
creases and cut level at top and bottom
with sharp knife. Two mounts are
usually required for each fan, between
which the thin combinations of the
sticks, previously riveted at the other
end, are inclosed, the ends of the mount
Los Angeles herald., 1905-07-02
loUlS SELF FAN

/ prefers gold or silver leaf, he may use
to fix it size composed of gum arabic.
sugar candy, small quantity of honey,
melted in pure water, mixed with a
little brandy, and applied with a camels
hair pencil. This preparation was long
kept a profound secret by the fan
makers. When dry, Furnishing may be
accomplished by piling number Of
mounts together and pressing them.
When the decoration has to be painted
on vellum the same materials may be
employed, but it is then desirable 10
take away the greasy nature of the skin
by rubbing over it a little powdered
whiting, or by using OK gall with the
colors. If the material for the mount
be silk three kinds of painting may be
employed-water, oil and varnish colors
but If either of the two last is used
the silk should be prepared by passing
over the parts intended to be painted or
gilded with a solution of isinglass. On
this ground the ordinary oil colors may
bC booh, Oul OdiC llQcl DC ldhtn IHdl
the painting be strictly confined to the
sized parts, or the oil will spread and
wholly spoil the work. Should, how
ever, by any accident chance spot of
color fall on, the silk 1t must be taken
out at once with a little clean turpen-
tine. AS varnish colors, which have
some advantage over oil, cannot be
bought ready mixed it will be necessary
to give directions for preparing them.
The colors should be first ground fine
with palette knife in turpentine on a
glass slab and then an equal quantity
of clear opal varnish be added and the
whole carefully mixed. AS the colors
dry more rapidly than those mixed with
oil, they will require occasional thin
ming with turpentine when i'm use, and,
when not wanted for time little tur-
pentine should be poured on the sur
Los Angeles herald., 1905-07-02

rTHOSE fragile "zephyrs" as they
were called in the double distilled
language of the precieuses, the
fans once welded by the ladies of the
French court, after having long lain
in the semi-obscurity of private COL
lectfons are now again being brought
into light and life forming an indis-
pensable part of modern gala CO.'S
tune.
Folding fans of ivory, but of cir
cular form, were known in Italy as
early as the eleventh century. They
were hung from the belt by chain of
gold. Through Catherine de Medicis
these circular fans were introduced
into France She seems to have given
expression to her grief at the death of
her husband by breaking all her fans.
The first European painted fans of the
shape now in use were also produced
in Italy, though the form was proba-
bly, introduced from China by the Por-
tuguese. The following description
will give some notion of the principal
styles since Louis XIV, and of the
infinite variety of beautiful detail with
which they charm the eye.
: A large Louis XIV fan, on pearl
sticks pierced and gilt, is painted with
scene froma tragedy of Corneille,
with on the reverse a Roman warrior
courting a pretty French lady in the
shade of an obelisk-an amusing ex-
ample to the grand gent of the grand
steele.
TheN aking of the Bastile and Incl
dents connected herewith, republican
festivals adorned with the emblems
, and mottos of "Liberte, Egalite, Fra
ternite" (Unity and Equality. with
tricolor ribbons, flags and revolutions
airy couplets, medley crowds dancing
v Terror period form favorite subjects
for fan prints. Portrait medallions
of Montagnard and Girondist leaders,
supported by, figures of Fame and
Liberty, and with verses in their honor,
were placed on fans used perhaps to
cool the deadly atmosphere of revolu-
tionary tribunals.
In Napoleonic times the spirit of fan
painters appears to have been nipped
, by the severity Of events. The highest
flight they take terminates in the por-
trait of the great warrior, who proba-
bly, did not like to have his victories
trifed with on paltry fans.
Views printed on fans seem to have
been very popular in the eighteenth
century in England st. James park,
including old buckingham house,
Westminster Abby and Whitehall, as
they appeared in 1741, are depicted on
the Oldest fan of this kind that has
come under my notice. Fans with
views of ST. James square, OF plan
of the Kings theater and of other
sites in London are dated 1888 and 1898,
and representations Of favorite water
ing places occur on fans early and late
in the eighteenth century. When the
modern and more convenient form of
ian had once been introduced into
France that country appears to have
assumed the dictatorship of taste in
its manufacture and decoration, and
almost all the fans that have been
preserved to the present day are either
Of the French style called Louis
Quatorze' or are limitations of it, I'm
fortunately, the period at which the
fan Manufacture reached its zenith in
Los Angeles herald., 1905-07-02

being attached to the two stronger and
more highly ornamented pieces known
as the master sticks. which are of the
same width as one fold of the fan. The
outer circumference of the mount has
now to be bound with binding, which
Is usually narrow strip of gold or
silver paper pasted on 1t and sometimes
fringed as with swansdown. The
painting Of paper fans differs from or
dinary water color drawing, inasmuch
as what is technically known as tex
Iture" cannot in the former be attained
by the use of thick rough paper; the
lightness and neatness- essential to the
fan demand that a thinner and finer
paper should be used; and this should
be made from linen rags to enable it to
bear repeated folding. The fact of this
smooth paper being used renders de-
sirable the employment of stippling
rather, than that of washes in the
colorng.
For the Gided Fan
Where gold and silver are required
the painter may use the ordinary il
Illuminating shell gold or silver, or. If he
Los Angeles herald., 1905-07-02

face Of the colors to keep them moist.
Nothing forms better receptacle for
these coiors than number OF thimbles
or small pots fixed IN a wooden frame
with a cover TO protect them from the
dust Camers hair pencils used In these
colors must be carefully washed in tur-
pentlne before being laid aside or they
Will become hard and useless. For at
taching gold or silver either in powder
or leaf to silk the cement should be
Ijapanner's gold size. This must be al
lowed to remain for some time until
It is only sticky in the least possible
degree before the gold or silver Is ap-
piled.
The leaf metal Is then laid on, pressed
down with ball of cotton wool
wrapped UP in soft wash leather. and
the loose gold rubbed lightly away with
cotton wool or other equally soft ma
terial. II gold or silver powder be used
IL is rubbed on lightly with a wash
leather ball similar to the one described
above. The mode Of painting last
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-02-18

tie celestial passage toward the end
done with rare musicianly feeling. Mr..
Eddy's pedal playing is the perfection
of reliability, smoothnesS and facility.
/ The most difficult passages are done by
him with ease and with perfect phras-
ing. His manual technic is equally as
tonishing, clear, clean and careful, his
long fingers and wide reach between
the thumb and first finger enabling
him to play his voices legato in all
sorts OF extended positions, his regis
tration is thoroughly tasteful and sat
isfying and his sense of tone color
wonderful
While the programme was probably
remarked that it was the general opin
ion that it was far too lengthy. 1t was
after II o'clock before the audience
was released. 1t is only telling the
truth to say that the principal feature
of the dedication was the portion of
the programme devoted to Mr.. Eddy's
performance upon the organ
The programme was heightened con-
siderably beyond what it should have
been by the introduction of several
numbers by the Topeka Choral society
and the Modoc club. Interest centered
in the opportunity of hearing a great
of the programme was devoted to that
purpose While the rendition of the
several selections by the Choral society
were above criticism, the idea prevails
that it would have been in better taste
to have omitted at least the Hymn of
Praise" This beautiful selection is
really an oratorio number and is almost
long enough to have devoted one whole
evening to it alone.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-02-18

Foster explained that if there were
any defects, it would be we'll to learn
of them at once in order that they
might be rectifed as soon as possible.
Mr. Eddy reluctantly consented to
make an investigation of the organ on
the provision that if he found any
imperfections, the criticism might ap-
pear to come from the pipe organ
association rather than from him. Ac-
cOrdlngly Mr.. Eddy spent three hours
Friday afternoon in making a thor
ough investigation of the organ. He
went over the entire instrument, care
fully scrutinizing the various parts in
an effort to discover if there were any
imperfections discernible.
At the conclusion or MS investiga-
ton Mr.. Eddy gave out the statement
that so far as he was able to distin-
guiSh, the organ is entirely perfect
This is of particular interest to To-
peza. An organist of Mr.. Eddy's
standing could hardly afford to give
out an opinion which is regarded as an
official statement, after making a care
full investigation for that purpose IN
less the opinion was grounded upon
his honest and sincere judgment.
For that reason it is a satisfa elton
to the people of the city of Topeka to
have Mr. Eddy's statement that the
new organ is a perfect instrument.
The pipe organ dedication recital
was not the financial success that had
been looked forward to. The indica-
tons looked favorable TO an audience
much larger than that which turned
out last evening.
The attendance last night amounted
to but 1925 persons, although it had
been confidently anticipated that the
attendance would amount to nearly
three thousand.
The total expenses of last evenings
recital amounted to about $500.
The pipe organ association has sold
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-02-18
ANALYSIS FREE,

department, WARNER EaTe (
1t and send a report with
Warmers Safe Cure is :
scribed by them, and used
and blood, because, while
can possibly leave any bad
doses Buy It at your drug
ing but Warmers Safe Gu
WARMERS SAFE Pill
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-02-18
List of New House BiIIs.

The following is a list of the new
bills introduced today:
sos by Mrs. Barnes-Prohibiting the
selling, giving or furnishing of cigars.
or other narcotics in any form to
minors under sixteen years of age, or
to miners attending any of the public
schools of the state of Kansas. and
providing methods for the enforce
ment of this act.
500 by Mr.. Berryman-Providing
for the monthly payment of wages by
railroad corporations and providing
penalties for the violation thereof.
go by Mr.. Lander-To vacate por-
ton Of townsite.
GIL by Mr.. Adair-Prescribin live
stock sanitary duties of sheriffs, con-
corning the appointment of live stock
sanitary inspectors and fixing the du-
ties and fees therefor.
912 by Mr.. Glasscock-Supple-
mental to the drainage bill.
913 by Mr.. Holdren-To provide a
punishment for members of co-part-
nerships, joint stock companies, clubs
and associations converting to their
own use, embezzling, taking, making
way with or secreting with the intent
to convert to their own use any
goods, rights in action, valuable secur-
tiles or effects belonging to such CO.
partnership, joint stock companies
clubs or associations.
S44 MI Wy AN1Nt~-N(
To amend section 1854 of the statutes
of 1901, relating to the charges and
fees for creating corporations in this
state.
915 by Mr.. UNDERWRITING the
rates to me charged for excess bag
GAGE and providing penalties for the
violation thereof.
916 by Mr.. Young-For the care
and protection of public highways ana
fixing penalties for its violation and
repealing section 6O32 general statutes
917 by Mr.. Murphy-Vacation in
Newton 90 -,
Substitute for house bill NO. 2SS by
,oron1ittee on Observation-Disclosures
the county commissioners of Cloud
county. Kansas, to establish and main
tain a county high school in the city
of Concordia, Kansas.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-02-18
BACK ACHE?
IT'S YOUR KIDNEYS!


un especial during the
ton in sing i?
o
Of anne in the 10y erpartof the back9
Do n seep?
p
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the eyesan
nd dry?
the
impare
W Irwin. OF Pa, wrote
weight
a and
n aiming
Hddneyd
ANALISS hEEs Sample your arn % the
N Y. ando
a
safe
speedy cure
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-02-18
gAA0HGN ~ I'LL %Oa
That Is Verdict of Mr.. Eddy and
the People.
The Dedication Exercises Drew
1926 People.
CONCERT A SUCCESS.
Mr.. Eddy's Selections Tested
Capacity OfInstrument.
Music Lovers Have a Treat
They Will Remember.
Mr.. TrOutman's Happy Hit in a
Speech.

The new pipe organ which was ded-
Acated at the Auditorium is -as near
perfect as it may be made. That is
the verdict Of Clarence Eddy, the or
ganist who was here for the organ
dedication last evening.
This is an important piece of news
Mr. Frank Foster, of the pipe organ
association, asked Mr.. Eddy to make
a critical and careful examination of
the organ to discover if there were any
defects which might be remedied Mr.
The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, 1905-02-18
THE REAL CAUSE.

The Ancient ScaIp-Fever TeOry Ex-
pIOded.
At one time dandruff was attributed to
the result Of a feverish condition Of the
scalp. which threw off the dried eutlcls
in scales.
Prof. Jnna, Hamburg, Germany, noted
authority on skin diseases, explodes this
theory and says that dandrun is a germ
disease.
This germ is really responsible for the
dandruff and for so many bald heads. 1t
can be cured IL it is gone about IN the
right way. The right way, of course, ana
the only way, is to kill the germ
New bros Herpicide does this, and per-
mits the hair to grow luxuriantly. just
as nature intended it should.
Sold by leading druggists. Send 10c in
stamps for sample to The Herpicide Co.
Detroit, Mich. Rowley & Snow. special
agents.