New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1905-10-08
Winter Gos0rs Of Fancy Vef0ef.
Dressmakers Launch Novel Models This Material
Severe Evening Gowns.

Paris. September %.
Are fancy relFets to be this winter?' is
= question of interest not only to the couturiers.
hat to many q prudent woman who wishes to
plan her best winter frock we'll in advance. Evil
IDENTIFY the manufacturers think so, for they have
proviied a tempting line of them in all the most
seductive hues spotted. striped, speckled and
rtaruped The dFessmakers making these UP
into models original and novel. and one might
naturally assume that fancy velvets were safely
launched II one did not remember that they
have always been difficult to make popular.
Moreover. this may be at last the year Of their
SUCCESS
Some OF the models of fancy velvets are most
attractive. A gown in French blue with splashes
ct gray running through it has the skirt
trimmed in tunc fashion with a latticework or
plain blue taffeta edged with tiny silver thread.
The bolero has big shawl revers trimmed in the
Same fashion and edged with black fox An
other gown is a brown velvet dotted with white
and made with bell skirt and long habit. The
habit is beIted about the waist. and the shawl
revers are of brown soutache embroidery dons
on blue cloth. The sleeves. moderately full.
have band of this trimming just below the ell
bows. heading falling. shaped cuff slashed on
the outside OF the arm TO show the ruf1es of the
underblouse.
There are a good many attractive wool vel
veto and the usual fashion of trimming them
IL with bands of stitched cloth. A material OF
this sort In shades of rather dull gray and blue
is trimmed on the skirt with bands of peacock
blue cloth. The top is q jacket to the waist line
in front, but with rather important coattails
and with revers framed in cloth bands. There
is a waistcoat of old linen perforated and en-
broidered in bright blue
one of the best examples of the use of tinted
lace is on model gown from the Rue de la Paix,
of saffron colored mirror velvet and made up
with Aiencon lace dyed the same shade The
lace is used on the bodice in the form of a
boero. finishing behind with a long Vatican
pleat The bolero opens I'm front a little
vest of antique batiste. blousing slightly and
fastened with small gold links. The skirt is
trimmed only by three deep folds taken in the
stuff
The fashion OF severe evening gowns Of satin
which came in at the end Of last season seems
TO continue but, on the other hand. there are
good many gowns Of the fluffy description. A
beautiful gown is Of white silk muslin over
pink and embroidered with butterflies done in
trideseent spangles. In addition to this the gown
IS heavily encrusted with lace. Paillettes prom
fee to be much used again, especially the
mother of pearl variety. Another novel gown is
made of white silk muslin and silver ribbon.
This too. is mounted over pink silk and trimmed
with pink velvet roses.
A formal dinner gown is Of pale pink satin.
half covered by a long tunfc of point Venise.
The tunic is cut i'm points and finished with
founce, which is headed with tulle roses. A
yariegated tulle is used shading from pale pink
to red. The corsage is draped with lace and the
decolletase is finished with
A lot of gold tissue is used on evening gowns,
and In one instance a habit is made entirely of
tissue embroidered in gold and green and worn
with lace skirt. A part of the lace in the
skirt is embroidered in gold. The underblouse
is OF silk muslin, trimmed with of tiny
Ealenciennes, and on one side of the bust is a
Clark red velvet rose.
black chantilly net gown in which gold is
used is almost too complicated for description
The lower part of the skirt is decorated with
palms done in gold thread set i'm black gauZe
ruchilgs Both back and front the ruchings
run up the skirt TO the waist and make almost
me eiltirs corsage, which is lightly embroidered
WI gold in quite a different pattern from that
useo on the skirt.
Nll,'er evening gowns. Il is reported that the
lasEiohaole yellow shades are to be worn for
evening" ihese include mustard and sulphur
as ven as ochre, and the first two should GER
tainly light up We'll The craze for yellow now
seems 70 De as strong as was the craze for
brown last winter Brown however has nv no
means disappeared and there &c q fasbion w.
shade or golden brown that IS Y,artic,IlarI,y a.
tractive IN cloth Peacock blue and wine color
are the two novelties in the color line
Although the dressnakers ana +ssl,~s sI,o, .
great many n1oueis or mixed stuffs and of plain
sfufs figured in the same color then, reco,,,
mend plain cloth and cashmere for really for
nal afternoon gowns. Perhaps the first choice
is cloth I'm one Of the new yellow shades ana
for trimming embroideries of narrow sontscba
snd heavy, solid wool embroideries are r1odisb
Elaborate stitching is much to the fore again
and rather stamps gown as coming from a
first class house. Passementeries and buttons
are also dscreetly used.
An example of autumn visiting costume is
Of ochre coloreG chiffon cloth, made with
tunie overskirt falling in deep points A few
inches above the hem OF the underskrt is a band
of stitching about eight inches deep. A slightly
narrower band finishes the edge OF the tunic
sQd above the points are embroidered in a fine
braid, both the cord and the fat soutache being
used For the top is straight paletot of Irish