The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-25
A TRIP TO ITALY BY TROLLEY CAR
Foreign Experiences the Adventurous New Yorker May
Have in Town.

odorS, the Italy one can Visit IN the Town
by means Of q trolley car is Italy just as
certainly as one finds 1t in small street OF
Florence or Genoa. The charm Of the
country may not be there. nor its pleasanter
phases Of life; but the existence OF the people
Is accurately seen in this swar1ning quarter.
The journey lands one not far from what
used to be the famous Five Points. Walk
half block toward the heart OF the Italian
quarter The open door Of what used
10 be store is partly hidden by red calico
curtains. Push them aside and enter.
The first thing one receives is a cordial
smile from a woman seated alone in COR
ner Of the room. At long wooden table
covered with cloth that night once have
heen whittier sit a group Of men. They
are still eating dinner and their way Of do
ing it explains the futility Of any attempt
TO keep a table cloth clean
Before every man stands a bottle OF red
vine. They are keenly interested in the
question they are discussing and scarcely
look up frc m the table to scan the new ar
rivals.
Signora, who has cordially greeted the
two, might with some stretch of the i'm
aginaton be conceived to resemble Duse
as La Lcc1ndierd. She moves toward a
single table to which she motions the
strangers. What will the gentlemen have?
The cloth at the small table is immaculate
and the thick white china without a heck.
Signora, in spite of the fact that she has,
with the assistance of youthful Italian
served many dinners that night, cannot
remember what is best on the bill Of fare
Or does she want to 60 to see what remains
Is it is rather late?
She comes back after while and. put
ting the bottle of wine on the table, says
that her husband will send two good din
ners If that suits the gentlemen. He Is the
cook and it does suit them. They have
grisini and Parmesan to nibble I'D iti!um
until the more substantial parts Of the
meal arrive.
The night is warm. and the breeze that
occasionally comes in over the red calico
curtains brings with it the sounds Of life
from the square almost opposite. There
IL occasional laughter followed by some
loudly spoken words Of Italian.
The sound of mandolin once in while
floats from some distant window and q
party of women passing talk in high voices
TO one another in Italian. Only the sign Of
the American brewer over the door dis
turbs the absolutely foreign interior of the
little restaurant.
The painted walls are without adornment,
except for a picture OF the King of Italy
In uniform and a cheap chrome OF the Pope,
an evident attempt to appeal to all classes.
The floor is covered with the prevailing
sawdust which does so much to give the
italian quarter its salient odor. In every
cafe or restaurant the floors are covered
With it.
Two women rather gaily dressed with
the highly colored f1nery OF the quarter
entered with a man after the two travellers
from uptown and took their seats at a able.
The men already there knew the two girls
and bowed to them without great courtesy
or consideration.
Tho women laughed as they talked with
Sheir escort. little man with a small black
nnustache, who took no notice Of the men at
me large table. They were not OF the work.
tngrnan's class, but looked as II they might
b prosperous fruiterers or clerks. Several
Of them glanced rather contemptuously
1t the little Italian with his pink cheeks and
black mustache.
Presently simora appears bearing a
Oteaming tureen, now all but destitute Of
the original silver coating that earlier in its
history had frightened its pewter sides.
It Il clean, even il it does not shine, and so
hIe the two soup plates. The wine IL OF
Sndoubted native growth, but palatable.
A good minestrone, she says smilingly
rs she puts down the tureen and chatters on
In Italian. And at this season the mine
strone Is so good because there are such
good things to put into it. There are car
rots-such young, small ones-fresh beans,
peas and all the good green things
She was of to serve the party of three
before she finished this eulogy, and the last
OF it was heard as she disappeared through
the swinging door that led into the kitchen
Through her aid and that Of her youthful
assistant the dinner arrived. The soup
was as good as she had promised it would
be- The stock was thick and tasteful.
and there were representatives of every
kind OF vegetable in the world to be found
In it, from dandelion to tomatoes.
Fried founder followed this, for the
two had told sisnosa that price wds no
object. The dinner was only to be of
the best.
Then came white, firm risoto, covered
With highly favored sauce of chopped
up meat and cepes. Scallops Of veal
trfolat cooked in oil and dressed with
sweetbreads and mushrooms followed. and
then what seemed to be hot sherry fip
made with rum finished the dinner 1t
was all very highly favored but we'll cooked
and as indigestibe to the American stomach
Is If it had been eaten in Bologna.
The two women who had been drinking
heady Italian champagne were talking
and laughing loudly now, in spite of the
disapp rowing looks OF signora. Several
of the men exchanged words with them
from time to time, altogether ignoring
their escort.
He was not perturbed by this inatten-
ton. but went on with his meal ordering
whatever he wanted without consulting
the taste Of his two companions. The
men about the large table had reached the
stage OF coffee and cordials when the two
diners from uptown left the room.
The square was swarming with the youth
OF the region, walking arm in arm. The
girls in groups brushed with suppressed
giggles past the lines of men three and fou
broad. On the benches we're seated the
graver seniors. talking, doing smoking.
M,lh uhoro ha,