The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1905-04-18
"A IDENTIFIED CLOTH AND BRAID COSTUME

which are usually employed in carry
ing out the motive are inconspicuous
as TO color. and rather small and mod
crate when ii comes to converting the
straight pieces into series of circles.
OF the many smart street costumes
already placed before the eager femi
nine eyes there has been none so far
this season of more quiet, dignified and
altogether attractive appearance than
today's fashion Offering. The very
color of the gown, which is soft. al
most understandable shade lowering be-
tween a mode and one of the new
grayish tans. recommends itself to the
woman of exquisite taste. The braid
decoration is confined to the, same
quiet tone, and even the narrow vest
lacks the usual contrasting color note.
Though the braid is twisted into
spirals. they are so modest in their
fourishes that one cannot gain
proper idea of the manner In which
curV1ng applications are being used.
The skirt of the gown is exceedingly
plain, touching. as the round habit of
the Partisan woman does at the pres
ent writing. 1t is arranged with suffi-
clent fullness TO give a fluted effect at
the foot, and between the long di-
visions there are clusters of three braid
ornaments starting at the seam and
curving upward to end in circles. The
braid used in this instance is a plain
silk pattern, probably not over three
quarters of an inch wide.
On the short coat there is more of il
than on the rest of the gown. From
the front the jacket seems to belong
more TO the Elton type than any other;
at the same time il is supplied with
belt and basque, which give ii a
slightly different character. Front and
back blouse ever so little. and starting
at the shoulders TO grow narrower at
the bust and then continuing on down
to the waist in a covering line are
two extra pieces which suggest a
broad collar and reVers. These are
finished with braid, which is twisted
into curl at the broadcast point below
the shoulder seam, and at the bottom
the revers are rounded off smartly.
Turning back over these wide revers
are small lapels adorned with braid in
the same fashion, and a collar thickly
covered with a conventional pattern in
narrow Soutache to match the other
braid. The coat closes we'll up TO the
base of the throat, and down here ex-
tends "a narrow vest braided with
soutache to match with the collar. The
belt is a pointed tailorlike one of cloth
stitched with braid, and starting from
the sides just back of the ends of the
revers is the basque, which widens at
the back and is finished all round with
braid.
The full cloth sleeve is plated in at
the armhole and later drawn into
double cuff. At the hand is a plain
braid trimmed cuff, which has above it
turnback one of the same kind into
which it stitched the sleeve fulIness.
With much more dash this spiral
decoration is used on an afternoon
gown of mouSSeline taffeta in a stun
ming shade of heliotrope. The skirt
: is rather fuller than the ordinary cut,
and it is trimmed with two inch frills
of the silk headed with silken fold.
These frills start in two separate
pieces, one each side of the front, and
round upward smartly, to continue
straight across the skirt toward the
back where they form other almost
complete circles. A second arrange
ment of frills reverses this order, that
is, the spirals curl upward almost to
the waist, while the straight part fol-
lows the same line as the lower motive.
The pointed bodice fastens in the
back and the front is laid in folds run
ming across. 1t is cut in v at the
neck to allow a lace yoke to show.
There is a silk frill to distinguish the
point here, both in the front and back,
and two other similar ruffies start at
the outer end of the shoulder seam and
are twisted to give the effect of
spiral bolerO, which is a chic way to
trim a dress of this order.