The San Francisco call., 1905-02-05

It is the very latest thing in
The world of dress and it is
worn whenever there is the
least possible occasion for it.
Hairdressing liz these days is either
one thing or the other. It is very. very
simple or very. very elaborate. and
there simply ISN'T any satisfactory go
between.
The dainty way the Southern lassies
rolled their hair required but simple
oeft twist Of the hand and a glistening
rose fresh from the garden, but the
more elaborate style demands that one
begins TO crimp the day before. Not
TO mention the three good hours that
are necessary to pile the structure UP
until it resembles court head-dress
revived from the days Of the early
queens of England
But whichever way the hair is worn
matters but little, fgr the real crown
ing glory is the dainty trifle that COM
pletes a fetching costume. If the frock
is simple one jewels are entirely out
of place, but q bouquet of ribbon violets
fastened high in the back and permit
stock is not only very pretty, but very
becoming as well
If the gown is of the 1880 period the
cciffure must be tossed up very high
and fastened with q handsome empire
comb And combs, by the way, are
just the price one wishes to pay. The
high backed ones. rather square in
shape and studded with jewels. cost
in the neighborhood of two or three
hundred dollars. but the shell ones are
inexpensive and the effect is almost as
stunning. though, of course, the same
idea or elegance is lacking.
With the empire or Josephine coiffure
one wears one Of these very tail combs
set well up On the back of the head
In addition to this there is the comb
which is set low in the back and is
pushed deep in the hair to hold up the
little locks at the back of the neck.
Besides this, some fashion viii also
permit two sidecombs. If one really
needs them or if they are too smart
10 be left at home to ornament the
dressing table.
The great variety Of combs worn
this year is quite enough to puzzle the
uninitiated. Just how ana where to
wear them is more difficult to solve
than a Chinese puzzle. There is one
rather pretty arrangement that shows
z coil in the middle OF the back of the
head. Amid this are set four combs
forming a square. OF course. they are
either plain or Of sSld, else the jewels
should match the jewels Of ones cos
Il . fo11 he, ,x-flr
on anything but well filled pocket
book
Really, the prettiest and the most
popular hair ornament is the new rib
bon flower. Roses and vioiets are so
cunningly fashioned that they look as
though they should have remained in
the garden. The roses are decidedly
unconventional, irregular and almost
ragged, but they are beautifully tinted
and are a delight to the fastidious
heart.
They are especially charming when
tucked in the hair at one side and that
they are popular is shown by the way
they are steadily appearing at efter-
noon functions. And this is not the
only way they are making themselves
Here ard there violets or roses arc
arranged ali along the top of the Golf
fure, where they look from the front
like a bed of sweetness growing from
my lady's head.
A pretty idea is carried out by the
more dashing gir. The flowers that
are used as crown are set with little
pearl headed pins or beads which look
something like drops Of dew. Ii goes
without saying that they always form
& pretty contrast to tie posies and add
z bit Of Frenchiness that is absolutely
captivating.
And, while / think of il. L want TO
say that all flowers and applique work
Of fowery nature that are seen on
French costumes just now show this
dewdrcp effect and occasionally in opa-
lescent shades, and very beautiful they
are. too.
Many pretty little nothings are plan
NED for the brunette in order that her
beauty may be shown off to the best
advantage. For her there is the lovely
feathery aigrette, the beautiful pearl
comb the wonderful rope Of pearls
wound about her pompadour and the
glittering, glinting butterflies Of gold
ana silver. Then, too, she has her
choice Of colors, for she can wear pink,
blue OF corn color to advantage, where
her blonde sister gains an insipid look
that is anything but pleasing or allur-
ing
But the fair lassie has not been left
out in the cold by any manner of
means, for jet has been converted into
charming tribes for her use. Besides
this birds Of Paradise feathers have
been fashioned into sweeping aigrettes
for her and great bows Of silver rib
bon are used in place Of the neck curl.
All these little effects are amazingly
pretty and not so terribly extrava CANT