davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03

on many other suits, and they end at the
elbow with the deep upturned cuffs. The
hat has bow of Grape at the left side and
from the back hangs long veil of water
proof Grape
There was a gown of eudora for a young
widow. This was made to show the SUI
perb quality of the stuff, with it's dead
f1neness and frosty bloom. This is the
most fashionable of all the black goods
and the only one recognized as suitable for
first mourning. 1t is half silk. Parametta
and bombazine were once the first mourn
ing. Now the eudora and silk warp hem
rietta are the best in every way. Cash
mere is employed for everyday wear, and
some Of the supple black silks without lus-
ter are seen. but always with Grape trim
ming. In England all widows wear in the
house a cap of white Grape lisse as well
as the little white roll along the front Of
the bonnet.
There was one handsome suit Of dull
crepe de sole, with deep border of Grape
and the same in waist trimming. The hat
was very stylish. with quilts made OF
Grape over wire. Elbow sleeves were worn
with long suede gloves. For a widow land
widows always have the deepest mourn
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03
PARIS FASHIONS
Special Correspondents Of The Star.

Speciai Correspondence OF The Star.
PARIS. August 10. 1906
All Paris is at Aix-les- Bains and other
famous watering places. Many OF the most
renowned Of the officers of the navy, with
their families. have been seeing the won
ders OF London, while there with the
avowed intention on the part of the gov
eminent of bringing about the entente coz
dale which has always existed between the
two countries. To speak IN the vernacu-
lar. London belonged to them. at least tor
the time being.
Some of the ladies of the brilliant party
dazzled the Londoners by their costumes
but unfortunately several of them are IN
mourning, so that they did not go out as
much as they would otherwise have done
AT the many grand and ceremonious din
ners and other functions the ladies Of
France outdid themselves
Back in gay Paree the streets, given over
swarm with the poorer people who find
no place there while the season Is In swing
And every where the people keep UP the
agitation over the failure of Sarah Bern
hardt to be made chevalier of the Legion
OF Honor when Mile Bartet was made one
IL seems that the sentiment grows as time
passes and the public feeling is really
aroused. The divine Sarah not to be dec
Grated and another not so talented or so
long on the stage to have the honor, 1t is
not to be borne, and the people discuss the
situation. which is a wonder, in Paris
ordinarily nothing seems to occupy the pub
lie mind more than twenty-four hours
The American contingent now in the city
is large, but there is little heard of II for
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03
Art and Science of Baking

From the New York Mall.
The widest success go with the ATTEMPT
or the New York State Association of
Master Bakers to spread and exaIt the
science and art Of good bakingl There is
no finer art than that of the baker. Bak-
Ing Is the noblest process connected with
food-nobler. we hasten to remark. than
eating; for whereas there is much eIut-
tony self-indulgence and general I'M
seemliness associated with eating, there
Is nothing but poetry and high art con-
nected with baking. Did 1t ever occur to
the reader that while the odors associated
with boiling and frying are often dis
agreeable, those connected with baking
are almost always delightful? Put your
dough into fat and fry It, and your nos
trils are instantly affronted. Put IT into
the oven and bake it. and the perfumes OF
Araby ascend. The aroma itself Is a At
offering to the gods There is certainly
something little occult in this circum-
stance; and bakers. we are sure are a
reVerent people as a rule. They follow
ancient usage in their work. The various
forms OF the bread loaf date back to an
cfent Greece, when they had distinctly
religious significance. Greece itself prob
ably derived them from Egypt; and Egypt
claimed that they were subjects OF reve-
lation.
Yet the art Of baking has in this age.
while retaining its hold upon antique
lore. linked itself with physical science.
Bread is now cooked In accordance with
the laws of chemistry. We notice that
some of our local bakers are endeavoring
to bring 1t q step still further forward in
this direction. and to abolish hand knead-
ing for sanitary reasons. Yet while it
may be more sanitary to knead bread
by machinery than by the hand of men.
we doubt II the change will conduce to
the palatability of the loaf. There must
be the same difference between hand
kneaded bread and machine-kneaded
and machine products. We prefer the
bread kneaded by the white hands of
good women. or good male bakers in
"Weal pie" said Sam Weller. lis VERY
good. especially when you know the ladies
as made it. The same may be said with
regard to bread Machine -kneaded bread
may be preferable to bread concerning
the preparation of which there is a sus-
picion. But the perfect. the ineffable
bread will continue to be that over whose
creation and whose baking q worthy
guiding spirit has presided
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03

the reason that the women are for the most
part busy preparing for the fall campaign,
and this neceSStates many visits to the
chief dreSSmakers and furnisherS Of every
description. The men meanwhile TAX
ing much-needed lessons in automobility.
Just how to fly faster than the wind and
avoid disaster, and in case of accident
to any one in the way to be far into the
next reimbursement before the victim
knows he IS killed, Is a great proof of ca
pacity which has not been altogether mas
tered yet in America. And that brings me
around to the question of mourning again.
for naturally the relatives must wear black
and be sad and abandoned to sorrow for
ever-or for six months.
In England mourning costumes are con-
sidered important. and the different degrees
of relationship require certain ways of max
Ing garment and certain kinds of materi-
al. Mourning is SO importana thing in
England that it becomes almost a function
to wear it, and not one day less than fash
ion says she must wear it will English
woman put it off. 1t is worn not as pen
ance. but as a sort of obligatory religious
observance, and a woman must be well up
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03

which makes quite as beautiful gowns as
China Grape. at half the cost and with the
advantage that 1t does not gather all TIE
dust in the universe. This silk is made with
shrrings as ornamentation and a little
Grape and sometimes dull black ribbon as
finish. Jet-bright after the first three
months of mourning and dull during that
time-is used very often trimming for
garments worn during the period of mourn
Ing. Embroidery of dull silk is also often
seen on waists and on some short wells.
Parasols are OF armure silk. and even the
portemonnaies of dull black suede
Some of the most advanced of the smart
set of Paris even have their dogs dyed
black If nature has made them light col
ored
Many OF the younger members OF the af-
hicted families do not like to wear the
heavy regulation goods. and for them there
are short dresses Of surah or China silk
made in kits or on similar lines The object
is to get something black that will be light
and easy and yet may be made. by the Iu-
dicfous addition Of bits of Grape here and
there, to pay the proper respect to tie de-
parted. CATHERINE TALBOT
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03

plaids being In themselves sufficient decora-
tons For school girls they are partiCu-
larly suited.
In hats. or models for them. while the
coming fall shapes are as outre as ever.
more skill IL shown in adapting the trim
mings to overcome this, and to give a be-
coming effect, a contamination devouuy to
be wished In view of the many and often
astounding effects produced this summer.
Beavers In small quantities. plain velvet
hats, and felts are being shown. as are also
chenille foundations.
In feathers the ostrich plume. of course,
leads. but when hasn't It? 1t Is graceful.
beautiful and has style when properly
used 1t comes in different grades and
lengths, and is therefore adapted TO appeal
to all but the poorest purses. as well as TO
all tastes.
The long plumes are. OF course. the favor
ties but these cannot be used on many
hats and therefore the broad tips are emf
nentiy smart Beautiful bird of paradise
plumes, Tyre bird feathers and other ex-
quisite feathers will be as much worn as
the purse will permit, for they are beyond
the financial reach of the mob. Peacock
plunage IL also being used and Is effective.
Birds thank heaven. will be used but lit
tie. but wings. and those chiefly made af-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03
fairs, will appear on many walking and

fairs, will appear on many walking and
shopping hats
In ribbons. velvets and the picot-edge
satin lead for millinery purposes.
Nearly all of the new hats show but little
trimming about the crown or upper brm;
it is massed under the brim and chiefly
where the hat is lifted and rolled Often
the only trimming seen on the crown Is a
bit of velvet ribbon and perhaps an orna-
ment. Long plumes, however. when used
are attached to the crown or upper brim,
and the ends are carried over and under the
brim. Tips, of course. are caught in clus-
tiers against the bandeau.
1t is well to be careful about purchasing
the hats shown in the windows of even the
smart shops In the course of some years
the writer has never seen one of these
or anything like it in shape and trimming
on the head of any really fashionable wom
an. The exclusive and strictly first-class
Partisan creations are kept for private
view. and even then are seldom shown save
to those who are known customers, and in
the millinery shops even these customers
are not shown the choicest hats unless they
women of social standing.
FRITZ Schef lately wore one of her favor
lite summer combinations of an elaborate
white blouse with short skirt of pastel
tinted cloth. topped by very Frenchy
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03

much at the left and back black, OF course
as she is In mourning. and had a number of
small black wings applied to the upturned
tending down over her coiffure.
One OF the frocks to be worn at the COM
ing Newport horse show is a French crea-
ton of pale pink null, with embroidery Of
the English openwork variety. 1t Is fur
Their trimmed with ruffies OF Valencennes
lace.
The skirt is formed of three flounces OF
equal depth overlapping each other. the
third trailing slightly all around. All are
gathered on to the foundation slip. but the
top one is gathered only slightly in the
back and the front, the superfiuous fullness
over the hips being laid in narrow tucks
that taper out and down to fine points be-
low the hips Each of these skirt fiounces
has row of wheel-like medallions at its
lower edge done in the openwork embroid-
cry while the bottom edge of each is fin
ished in small points. wide in proportion to
their length. and each having three open
work ovals in embroidery.
Inserted under the edge of each fiounce
is a scant five-inch rufiie of Valencennes
lace, that fills in the spaces between the
points with lace ruffiing, and this rufiiing
also projects an inch below each point.
Where the lace is Joined to the null a bias
strapping of the null is stitched on the out
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03
SKELETON WRAPS

Every woman feels the need of some sort
of an outer wrap soon as fall sets in.
The fitted Jacket, however, is still too
warm, and when worn usually means ruina-
ton to the delicate bodice underneath. So
Dame Fashion has stepped in this year
with the most charming skeleton Jackets,
picturesque capes and becoming ruches to
protect miladi's neck and shoulders from
chill autumn winds
So simple these smart little access
series that the home needlewoman can
fashion them quite as easily as the fashion
able modiste, and with much less expense
The most unique OF these light wraps is
skeleton jacket which matches the gown
with which ii is worn, or lends to it a har-
monious contrast. Its vogue is largely due
to the continued popularity of the costume
dress; that is. the dress built with skirt and
waist of the same material. With this chic
wrap the effect of the frock is not lost, as
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03
CONDENSED Furniture


On returning to town after summer out
ing everything about a home seems cramp
ed and crowded The walls Of the little
apartment or city house seem to have con-
tracted and the furniture grown more bulky
after the freedom of outdoor life or per
haps the roominess of a big farm house in
the country. Dresses are ripped coats torn
and tempers badly disarranged because the
family has got out OF the habit of living
by checkerboard rules-moving one king to
make way for another.
A wonderful boon to persons who must
conform to these smaller quarters are the
numberless new devices in condensed furni-
ture which have made their appearance this
fall There Is an especial wealth of va
riety In folding beds. One late model shows
"a box couch with high back, luxuriousiy
upholstered in leather or tapestry. When
ready for use at night the back of the couch
slides to the opposite side. bringing up
double bed with comfortable mattress
and sheets and blankets neatly spread and
tucked in. Putting the pillows into place
and raising head and foot ratings converts
the couch into an iron bedstead.
Another folding bed has the head and foot
of iron bars. which close up like street
car gate. The mattress and springs tie UP
fatty against the wall and are covered by a
pretty denim or siikoline curtain Still a
third bed has sideboard writing desk com.
bined with 1t. During the day a large glass
cabinet surmounts what looks to be q broad
chest of which panel drops down. show
ing pigeonnoies. etc. At night the chest
pulls straight out. without any lifting or
hauling, and spreads forth comforta BILE
bed on strong springs. The new condensed
iron cots are also a splendid way of gaining
space in the daytime when beds are not in
use.
Aside from these novel folding beds
chests of drawers hat racks, etc. are built
long to stand snug.y against the wall. They
have very little width and no bullying fronts
On this order is rack of dark oak with
beveled mirror in square frame supporting
many books, while underneath Is a series
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03
| Of shelves wide enough to receive hat.


OF shelves wide enough to receive hat.
shut In by two folding doors.
A more decorative rack tncloses the books
in a case of loaded glass. The lower part
is a huge settee. the seat Of which lifts to
disclose an enormous box for rubbers, gait
ers. etc. Where closet room is lacking in a
house these condensed racks for the hall
will hold many outer garments Box set
tees. without the upper rack. are also fndis-
pensable in the hall of small city house
or fiat.
Bureaus of silver gray maple are con-
structed on similar compact lines. so that
they do not extend far out into the room.
tall mirror surmounts one side of the Two
long drawers. while a succession of little
drawers on the other side reaches to the
top of the beveled glass.
If washstand is required in bed room,
one very neat arrangement combines 1t with
a desk. At the back tank of water does
away with the necessity of pitcher. ana
waste falls into pail underneath the bowl
When not in use as a washstand, the cover
drops down and makes an extremely at
traetive desk of bird's-eye maple.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03

side. and tiny French knots in white are
scattered thickly over the strapping.
The deep girdle. pointed at the bottom
only, is of pale pink. brocaded with tiny
pink rosebuds of deeper shade. with little
green leaves. The bodice is practically all
lace. the pink null forming wide scarfs
each shoulder and ending under the
girdle in both the back and the front. 1t
has a foundation slip of the pink null, over
which wide Valenciennes lace is arranged
somewhat loosely. and is drawn on under
the girdle, and shows in a wide, straight
vest effect down the front. and similarly at
the back two edges of lace insertions meet
ing in both the center front and the CEN
ter back over the null, and from this pink
foundation there extends a wrinkled and
featherboned high stock of the null edged
with a narrow strip of lace edging.
The null sections going over The shout
ders are also bordarcd with rules Of ihe
lace. The lace ruffie at the inner edge of
these null strips is only two inches wide
That at the outside is seven inches wide
over the shoulder tops, where 1t forms the
f1ounce on the sleeves. and is slanted In
until at the girdle line 1t ends in a sharp
point.
The sleeves match the skirt in being made
of three overlapping flounces. the upper all
lace and the lower two of null. with rows
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03

In the sartorial arts to know a1l the in
tricacies Of mourning garb. But the ma
terials and fabrics produced especially for
mourning wear by the English manufac-
turers from the finest natural Australian
wool are 30 rich and elegant that one must
admire them.
The Frenchwoman, on the other hand.
takes the wearing Of the habiliments OF
grief just as she does all other things,
lightly. For awhile she is overwhelmed
with the sense OF her loss and then she be-
gins to wonder II mourning is really becom-
ing to her, and from that minute her
mourning attire Is coquettish her
other garments 1t is not altogether in
France. however, that the elegant styles for
mourning originate, fo- some of the Eng
lish models particularly since the death of
the late Queen of England. have been Illus
trations of what can be accomplished In the
way Of dressiness with somber woods and
grapes.
These really stylish and beautiful gowns
and wraps have in addition to their own
beauty of line and finish the grace and dis
tinction of the garb of woe. Recently Duse
the great actress, has had several gowns
and wraps made for play. Long
lines. sweeping and somber. with rich,
heavy folds to the skirts. are the distin-
gushing features. To one of the costumes
has been added a short cape. (which is di-
vided in the back from waist to shoulders
and reaches but to the waist line This is
made of that superlatively beautiful mourn
ing material, eudora. Around the bottom
of it and up the front and the slashed back
is fringe made of Grape ribbon. This
somehow gives the impression of a grief
that knows and can know no solace. The
dress skirt is long and lies in heavy folds.
which lose themselves at the bottom. There
is no trimming at the bottom save a rope
of Grape directly on the edge.
At one of the largest houses in the world
that make speciality of mourning outfits
there was suit for young lady mourn
ing for father. The skirt was laid in
plaits: also the waist.
The Louis XIV sleeves are seen on this, as
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03

1t is when the bodice Is hidden beneath a
tailored coat.
Most stunning among these skeleton jack
cts is a silk affair built In peau de sole of
supple liberty texture. At the back two
broad pieces of the silk are gathered from
the top of the arm-size half way across the
shoulder seam and extend to the center of
the waist line, where they cross. Two
large, silk-covered buttons secure the juno
ton and the silk widths end in long. pointed
tabs effecting position. Similar widths
of the silk falling from the shoulder seams
in front cross at the bust line and pass
around the waist fastening under the silk
buttons. The sleeves are short. full pu1s
of the material reaching half way to the
elbow, where they are finished with circle
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03

well as in shaped bands over the shoulders
with silk Hercules braid.
The other cape is of white broadcioth,
and Is built on pelerine lines. Two pieces
OF the material form short, circular capes
at the ok and droop over the shoulders.
Tspering to points at the waist line. they
cross and are attached to a belt of gold
braid or black velvet. which Is fastened at
the side with gilt ring button. Gold braid
OF velvet bands terminating in large ring
buttons trim the neck. and piping of
white lawn or maline protects the delicate
cellar OF the frock beenath. II long
waisted effect Is desired, the pointed ends
of the cape should be allowed to hang
straight down like a stole. In this case a
strip of gold or velvet ribbon energies from
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03


Sleeves are not essential to these skeleton
wraps. One distinctive garment which can
be made with or without them is built of
pearl-gray wolfe lined with taffeta in self
tone. A double collarette finished In square
corners opens at the throat in very small
V. From beneath the lower collar falls
double box pleat of the sllk-lined wolfe,
fastening blindly down the front and ending
at the waist line. If sleeves are desired,
the lower collar extends squarely out over
the shoulder line and conceals the gather
ings of two short. bobbing ripples of wolfe
which form the elbow sleeves. Velvet col
lar in delicate Sevres blue. and square silk
revers piped with velvet, finish the neck of
this smart wrap.
Equally as natty are two shoulder capes
OF broadcloth. One in thrush brown has a
full gathering of the material dropping over
the shoulders, front and back, in jabot
points. 1t is attached to a pointed yoke,
and rs trimmed round the V-shaped neck
and across the bottom Of the full capes, as
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03

Light wraps for more dressy occasions are
built of lace. maline or chiffon. Particu-
larly fetching is large cape with collar
less yoke of fagoted taffeta bands Around
this is gathered very full short ruffle of
the silk with wide lace insertion and heavy
lace edging. A band of the taffeta passes
over each shoulder to the edge OF the lace:
beth front and back is adorned with a lew
eled button at each of its forked ends
NO less smart for fall wear are Queen
Elizabeth ruches of maline. They are not
becoming, however, to a woman with a
short neck. The daintiest of the ruches are
Dullt from double widths OF shaded maline
laid into stiff box pleats. Many lengths of
inch wide velvet ribbon in shadings to
match the maline dangle from either end
OF the ruche. They tied at intervals in
loose knots and terminate in a knot with
many looms
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03

chapeau of white trimmed with pink roses
and draped with huge square of pale pink
chiffon
The skirt was glove-fitting and of a pale,
tan tinted cloth with underlying box plaits
that showed only from the knees down.
These plaits were at each seam and some
fourteen more inches apart at each point,
and where the stitching ceased and the I'M
DERIVING plat was allowed to flare there
fastened passementerie ornament
with dropping pendant.
The blouse was a conCOction of finest
white linen with lace medallionS and strips
of lace inserted Its wearer is much more
slight than she was last summer. but is
still delightfully."- rounded.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03

Mrs. Sydney Dillon Ripley, who will spend
the autumn abroad, lunched the other day
in smart 9Th avenue restaurant in a sim
pie mourning gown, in which however, she
looked decidedly handsome. 1t was a fine
wolfe with a round skirt closely plated at
the top and trimmed between the knee line
and the hem with three or four wide tucks.
The bodice. shirred in at the waist line.
also showed a cross tucked effect and the
somewhat scant, slightly pulled elbow
sleeves carried out the tucked idea. Her
hat was a small. smart affair, raised very
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03

of silk edged In saw-tooth points and orna-
mented by button to match those at the
back.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-03

Der cath the upper cape al the bust line on
either side. This covers the ends OF the
cape, and Is itself finished with ring tiny
crochet buttons to give It the smart erect.