Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1905-04-14

profusion. These come in the taffeta.
and vOiles, and they fall into the most
graceful lines about the figure. skirts
are bare of overskirts and paniers, but
they employ so much trimming that an
overskirt would be relief. A great
deal of eording is used, running around
the skirts in waves. 1t is not light
cording, either, but the largest and
heaviest kind.
In describing the general costume the
word direetoire would perhaps best give
an idea, and yet it is by no means di.
rectoire, except about the ceinture. The
pjouched front has altogether disap.
peared an with it the exaggerated point
in front. Yet another kind of point has
made its advent-one which is the re-
suit of the long corselet. This extends
down so far that sometimes it is almost
a caricature. The short-waist effect in
the back-the back that was fashiona.
BILE in America seven years ago-is
again in vogue. Gathers have given
place to plaits. One voile ninon was a
study in tucks about an inch wide, laid
fiat, and extending about half yard
down from the belt, to be repeated on
fiounce and on top of sleeves and yoke.
Plain tueks are entirely passe, but the
kind which resembles little plaits is
again in vogue.
Many, many buttons--brass, boutons
de style, and the old-fashioned button
forms covered with goods-help to
adorn the robes and frocks of serious
kinds.
Each dress, if it is expected to be the
least dressy, must be touched with
white, and very strongly touched, too.
AS for length of skirts they are round.
with very little train, but the kind that
covers the feet in front has never de.
parted. Another style that is again
repeated is the taffeta mousseline. Some
of the cotton materials resemble the
Amegican cheesecloth, having not the
slightest body. The sleeves are fully
as short as were expected, and the wo
man who has not round, white arms
will be at a great disadvantage. Some
of the sleeves barely extend to the ell.
bow, while others extend halfway down,
The linen frocks are "frocks' no
longer, but are much betrimmed, dee
grated affairs that have long since lost
their unconventionality and everyday
effect. To all appearances the summer
girl of 1905 will be a studied always
'dressed-up" young woman, whose
gowns, while lavish in style, will sug.
gest a lavish purse also. She will be
frivolous in effect, also, and underlying
il all, the dollars and cents will cry
out True, the materials of frocks cost
no more than heretofore, but it is the
great amount of goods, and something
TO cover it all-the immense variety of
handwork that will characterize the
whole.
Fancy braid is seen, but it makes lit
tie rosettes and the centers are caught
together in cobweb work. Everyone
knows that machine work is more ex'
pensive in France than that done by
hand, but this spring things in the
French capital are exaggerated. Little
knife plaitings Of taffeta trim some
of the cashmeres and voiles The
draped corsage is now so attractive that
it has won over those who were indif |
ferentt to its charms last winter.
Direetiore lines are also followed in
the cloaks and coats of the new season
They are chic but not warm, some of
the sleeves being caught almost as high |
as the shoulder in a series Of folds and !
gathers. The pongee eloaks are beauti
full but they would be little protection |
unless the day was warm enough TO dis
pense with wraps. Wraps, unfortunate
lv. have become as eoquettish and friy'
olous as everything else in the feminine
field, and if one wishes to get any ser
vice out of coat, one must modify the
models that are being exhibited.
A coat that has been taking ultra
fashionable Paris by storm this season
there is little danger win become OBJ
noxiously common. It was shown. 1t
was shown at a recent opening in tins
eity and excited more comment than
many a more graceful garment there
The coat was part of snuff brown tar
feta eostume-the color Of all others
THAT lends itself to ungaeeful effects.
lIt was saeque shape, Of long hip length
land had a pinch shirred yoke eheet
(which supplied fullness to front aud
back Then imagine this fulness gath
cred in at the bottom Of the back OF
the coat under the wide band OF tiny
| .,, IA ho,tIonna that bOTdeTed az