The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-02
COST OF BUILDING A DREAM.
DRESSMAKERS PROFITS LESS
THAN SOME PEOPLE THINK.
The Seemingly simple. Soft, ClinEing Frock
OF the Day Really More Expensive
10 Make Than the BrOcade Gown OF
1850 mat COulh Almost stand Alone

The Seemingly Simple. Soft, ClinEing FrOck
OF the Day Really More Expensive
10 Make Than the BrOcade Gown OF
1850 That Could Almost stand Alone.
The increased cost Of women's gowns
has furnished a text for many anirate father,
husband and dressmaker-the last pro-
IA ing against the almost universal insinu-
alton that the difference in cost between an
1850 and a 1905 costume goes to swell her
bank account
There are a few things about the 1905
gown that some people don't know re-
marked, with some asperity, New York
dressmaker who has clothed more than one
generation Of women OF the smart set and
whose clientele includes the newly rich and
the professional woman able and willing to
pay extravagantly for the latest thing In a
gown. zone Of these ia that the materials
which now go into a dream, a creation,
represent about twice as much money aS the
materials used in a gown Of the same class,
say forty or fifty years ago.
1T Ia not that silk or satin or velvet or
laoes cost any more or as much, now, but
simply that the combination Of materials
used lie quito different. For instance at one
time the stand-alone brocade type Of cos
tune. trimmed at the corsage with a bit Of
real lace, was counted an apotheosis Of the
dressmaker's art and 80 far as looks went,
90 IL was. In appearance, in fact, 1t was
far more impressive than the gown Of to-
day, which costs three times as much.
Ito count the cost Of such a gown was
easy enough, There were 80 many yards
Of brocade and Of lining and Of trimming,
at a given price, added to which was the
cost Of making which could be reckoned TO
dollar almost, for there was much more
uniformity in styles then than there Is now.
The brocade or velvet gown Of Mrs.
Jones was practically a duplicate OF that
Of Mrs Brown, except maybe ip color or
the style Of trimming. In those days don't
believe a dressmakeT ever lay-aaEnke nights
planning something quite original for an
exacting customer who absolutely rejected
models which had been ordered by other
women In her set
when ! first went into business we
made gowns, now we build them. The
complexity Of the modern creation Is
amazing. especially Of the soft, clinglng,
unaggTessive creation which exoites holy
horror almost in the breast Of the unin-
formed Nnen Lney learn llldJ IL COsl t@OO
or $500, maybe.
What vampires those swell dressmakers
sre!' they cry, and l don't suppose It would
be possible to make them believe that the
dressmaker's profit on that style of gown
is apt TO be less than il was on the imposing
brocade affair.
Five OF six layers Of material are nothing
for these unassuming creations--a founda-
ton Of silk over that q layer Of satin, then
one Of net. covered in turn with ruffies Of
the same fabric, which serve as a support
10 a draping OF chiffon or crepe de chine,
embelished In turn with embroideries Of
silk and paillettes or with entire deux Of the
finest laces.
This lie only one style. There are count
less varieties Of the olinging, diaphanous
model, but they are all alike in two par
tiOulars-first that an unbelievable num-
ber Of yards Of material can be packed
away on one foundation and that expert
workmanship is necessary TO get the best
results.
A comparatively small number Of yards
Of brocade OF velvet is required 10 make
a complete costume, for every inch Of the
material seems 10 show at once. With
chiffons and other soft textiles, the price
OF which by the yard overtops sometimes
that paid for the handsomest silks and