The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-04

as those evolved BY tho specialists In such
work; and It IL usually advisable to select
and buy pretty chemisette unless the
frock is In the hands Of q dressmaker Of
considerable skill
The very intricate and elaborate sets
are, Of course, very high in price but there
are extremely pretty simple sets, fine In
material and original in design, which are
not extravaganuy expensive. The en-
broidered muslin chemisettes, guiltless OF
other trimming, are smart for wear with
morning frocks, but are seldom 60 becom-
ing as the lace trimmed chemisettes.
There is considerable difference In the
shaping and fitting Of the collars, and this
should be taken into consideration in Sc
leoting. Then the collar and cuffs, II set
Is used, should be carefully fitted by some
one who understands such matters.
Tiny loops and buttons are on a ma ority
Of the finest lingerie sets. II, instead,
hooks and eyes are used, 1t will usually be
found worth while to remove them and 60
to the trouble OF substituting the little
loops and buttons. The essential charm
OF such feminine dress accessories lies In
their exquisite daintiness, and when a
chemisette Is clumsily fitted and carelessly
fastened or adjusted it loses its chic dainti-
ness, q fact many women who are wearing
this seasons neckwear seem incapable Of
grasping. It Is an astonishing thing that
innumerable women, otherwise careful In
regard to dress. will fasten stock or guimpe
carelessly in the back and go about &C.
renely content in that the front view Of
their toiettes leaves nothing to be desired.
Plain waists OF sheerest lawn, upon
which are adjusted fne chemisettes and
sleeves, arc made for wear under blouse
bodies cut down at tho neck and made
with the loose caplike sleeve slit up the
outside; and with fine laoe and muslin
chemisette and sleeve arrangement Of this
sort, even the cheapest OF ginghams, awns.
linens, DO, may attain an air Of smartness.
The full short bolero. made with tho same
cap sleeves, Is popular. too, and Is. Of course,
worn over complete lingerie blouse, but
1t does not launder so we'll as the blouse
bodice.
Fine tuoking is lavished upon many OF
the sheer frocks otherwise very slightly
trimmed and the results arc often de-
cidedly good. The silk mousse,in f,ock
shown In one OF the small outs is case in
point, its full skirt being tucked half way
up to the waist. Sleeves and blouse are
tucked to correspond and the gracefully
draped fchu. the sleeve frills and the
guimpe of lace are the only other trimming
Exceedingly attractive frocks Of Brus-
sells net and Of point d'esprit are made
up with absolutely no trimming save
lavish tuoking and rows OF fine shirring,
and when we'll made are particularly mo-
dish and pretty for summer evening wear.
Multitudinous frills edged with valen-
ciennes or frills OF valenoiennes set di-
rectly upon the frock trim other frocks
that succeed in being pretty without any
lntricacy Of design. The light blue null
reproduced in one Of the sketches was a
frock Of this sort.
Its round full bodice had a Dutch neck
and shallow round yoke formed of frills
Of narrow valenciennes set closely to-
gether. This yoke curved downward more
deeply In the front than elsewhere, and
lower on the blouse was broad band
formed like the yoke Of valenciennes frlls
and following exactly the line OF the yoke.
The full skirt was trimmed in many little
frills, valenciennes edged, and the short
sleeves also had vaenciennes edged frills
More elaborate frocks in wash materials
show most complicated insettings OF lace
tucking, embroidery, DC. and often the
designer in striving after originality or
novelty achieves it ct the cost OF beauty.
Intricate designs are all very we'll when
they are beautiful, but intricaoy for intri-
cacy's sake Is costly nonsense.
Some Of the prettiest of the rather COM
plicated models are built upon princesse
lines with fine vertical tucks shaping the
waist curve and moro or less elaborate
trimming Of lace and embroidery on skirt
and bodice. One OF the less complicated
designs of this type has been sketched
for this page, but the princesse requires
careful shaping and designing. Is seldom
successful when bought ready made, and
even when made to order, does not come
out we'll unless the dressmaker understands
making the best OF figure and has moro
than average skill.
Chiffon taffeta is used for everything from
shirt waist frocks to evening gowns, and .
host Of sheer silks such as radium, radia
cloth, chiffon messaline, &C., share honors
with it, though the tafreta heads the list.
The short bolero and walking skirt COS
tune, the long full belted coat and skirt
costume, the shirt waist morning frock,
the dressy afternoon frock, the high necked
dinner gown for restaurant and theater
wear. the ooquettish evening frook 80 ser
viceable for seashore wear, all are made in
plain tone chiffon taffeta as often as in any
other material, and the fine checks, stripes
and lowered designs in tafieta are popular,
though the monotone material il now pre-
ferled and few non-washable material.