davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22

IT is sometimes rather difficult to settle
on what Is exactly suitable and becom
ing for young girls of the so-called
II gawky age. from fourteen to seventeen.
OF course some girls come into this
period at thirteen, or even twelve years.
and some do not get out of 1t until they
are women IN years, but most girls retain
their childish graces until about fourteen
and enter into womanly charm at eighteen.
They have their own peculiar prettiness be-
tween those ages. and while girls of that
age usually have little time for clothes and
should have little thought for them, still,
on the other hand. parents and guardians
sometimes go too far in dressing young
girl carelessly and unbeautifully.
Among the most attractive materials now
fashionable for young girls frocks are
cashmere henrietta cloth and similar light
weight. soft and graceful materials. They
may be had in expensive and In cheap quail
tiles. They are especially good just now
when the full skirts are so much In favor.
because the weight of the material is so
much less than that of the cloths and most
other wooden materials.
The school gowns made OF the cashmere
and similar weaves of wooden goods are
trimmed with cloth of another shade of
the same color or OF contrasting color,
with narrow braid. rows of stitching and
hand work. Many OF them are made to
or nainsook. trimmed with narrow lace and
embroidery, with cuffs Of the same. This
is a most useful style. as the chemisette
and cuffs may be changed daily. The skirts
OF all gowns are now made very full. either
circular, gored or plated. Even for tall
girl they should be well off the ground for
school. On a plated skirt no trimming is
used. The circular and gored skirts are
trimmed sometimes with rows of braid or
bands of stitching or cloth to match the
decoration of the waist.
Baby waists are very fashionable made of
cashmere. buttoned in the back. of course.
and trimmed over the yoke as has been
suggested The waists are not made so full
waist line. Sleeves are smaller although in
cashmere they should not be too small as
the fun sleeves with long cuffs look very
graceful in that material The sleeves may
be made to stand out from the shoulder by
several rows of cording or tucks around the
top, which VIII make the shoulders look
fashionably broad.
AS the circular skirts do not hold their
shape very well. IL is best to have the school
skirt made either pleated or full, with small
tucks. smockings or shirrings around the
hips.
Afternoon costumes are very pretty when
made of cashmere either In the princess
style or with the princess skirt, which is all
one with the belt, and with which is worn
bolero. The whole costume of course is
meant to wear under heavy top coat For
such costume one Of the prettiest possible
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22

that the entire bridal party gowned In white
looks far better than when the bridesmaids
wear colors. Fortunately fashion Is very
lenient in these details, allowing any and
each taste to be satisfied.
A great deal depends also upon the height,
appearance and age of the bridesmaids A
party of very young girls In simple white
gownS-simple according to such acceptance
of the term as is implied in chiffon and lace
and smarty turned out-wth sashes OF
pink, white hats with pink feathers and
carrying bouquets of pink roses, seem most
appropriately arrayed, while an older set of
girls, gowned In pale blue, pink yellow
liberty satin and wearing big black hats
with black ostrich tips are immensely
smart.
Wide girdles and sashes are effective on
bridesmaids gowns, and when flowers to
match are carried the color note is most sat-
isfactory. Bouquets of flowers are really
more effective than anything else, but IL
has been rather the fad for some time to
carry big sticks of the directoire order. or
flower muffs. Again, these details are reg
ulated by individual taste, and 1t is the gen.
eral effect that has to be considered rather
than any hard and fast rule be carried out.
Only there must not be any clashing of col
ors and color contrasts must be avoided
also.
While the skirts OF the bridesmaids
gowns are not so long as the skirt of the
brides, trained skirts should be the rule.
A short skirted gown never looks appro-
pirate or smart with any gown of an elab-
crate description, especially for so impor-
tant an occasion. At a church wedding the
long skirts. both going up the aisle and in
the chancel, give the wearer a graceful ap-
pearance, while the short skirt would seem
awkward and hopelessly out of place. So.
no matter whether the material be satin
chiffon, the fashion must be the same, and
the general effect must be considered.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22

recommended to those who would like a
skin clear grained. soft and fine
Don't wear a veil A school girl does not
need to cover her face from the wind or
the sun
Don't wear corset while YOU are
school girl Dress loosely and lightly all
the time, just as you do when you wear a
gymnasium suit. 1t is worth while to
make a note of the fact that a red nose
and tight corset are often found together
lf you have trouble In winter from a
chapped and frosted skin, try using a good
cold cream every night. rubbing IL in with
gentle massage.
And, girls. neither now, nor at any time
In your future life. entertain the idea that
you can make your complexion fine by
busting 1t with powder or touching IL with
any cosmetic. A good skin is the outward
sign of inward health, I have said and
Is the result of good sleep, regular exer-
else, constant bathing and a good diges-
ton. Some girls have to take more care
than others to insure a really fine skim
but the rule is that when a girl is whole
some. strong and cheerfully well her COM
plexion will be beautiful
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22
Courtesy.
From the indianapolis Sentinel.


Politeness and courtesy, like charity, be-
gin at home" and the woman who is COM
planning that men are no longer as cour-
teous they formerly were should look
first to her own family. That there is
deplorable lack of courtesy shown by men
toward the women whom they meet Is an
undeniable fact, but is it not caused partly,
at least, by the women themselves? The
fact that a woman Is working In the same
Office with a man from o'clock In the
morning until in the evening oftentimes
doing the same work as the man himself.
is no reason why. nor excuse for, his not
showing her every courtesy due her sex.
but it does account in a great measure
for his carelessness in the matter. For
1t Is carelessness. The man who IS a
true gentleman at heart never means any
direct disrespeet; II is mere carelessness
on his part that makes him forget the
Allie couriesies that our grandfathers and
great-grandfathers were wont to bestow
upon every woman simply because she was
a woman.
But IT Is not the business woman who
is the chief cause OF the mans attitude
on this subject. The woman of leisure
who stays downtown always until the @
o clock car and then negiects to thank the
tired man when he gives her his seat In a
crowded street car, is the woman for whom
her more thoughtful sisters must suffer.
She is the same woman who always oc-
cupies one of the three rear seats and then
scoBls al the man who smokes at her side.
She talks to the shopkeeper as II he were
her slave. with nothing to do but sell her
she is not disturbed while using his tele-
phone for half hours idle gossip while .
hurried customer at the other end must
needs call at another store.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22
Mourning Fashions.

From Hafpers Bazaar.
Only on elderly women is the close-fitting
small bonnet with long veil seen. The crepe
veil is worn, but more often on hat than
on bonnet. and with its fullness adjusted
In most graceful folds, until the original
idea OF veil to hide ones features from
the gaze of too curious or sympathetic
friends has apparently been quite lost sight
OF. Small round hats. turbans and fiat
hats worn little over the face are all con-
sidered good style worn with a long crepe
veil, while as soon as the veil is shortened
the millinery at once takes on a most CO.
quettish appearance
combined with crepe for hat trimming are
sum wings. dull jet; and for lighter mourn.
ing, but still with crepe. black ostrich
piumes fastened with Jet buckles are not
thought at all extreme
Black serge is now included in the list of
mourning fabrics. but of as dull black as
possible: again, trimmings of crepe are
used. and buttons of dull jet. A crepe hat
with slim wing at the side completes a neat
ana smart street gown built on the latest
lines for mourning.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22

newer than the shepherds plaids in black
and white, etc. The silk and light colored
wooden plaids and those of poplin for after
noon wear are most attractive. For all Of
these nothing is prettier a trimming
than narrow black velvet Fine lace col
lars are also very pretty with plaid frock
X
Street suits are also made of the plaid
but. as there is quite a fad this year for
wearing dresses and top coats instead Of
shirt waists and suits. it will be we'll to
have a waist made also If coat suit is to
be made of the plaid. For using this ma
terial as a coat suit the long, three-quarter
and short coat alike are all good. The bolero
or Elton jacket, however, looks better In a
plain material. The short box jacket. fall
Ing barely to the hips. finished In perfectly
plain tailor fashion, with cuffs and collar
OF velvet or braided in black, Is one of the
best styles for this material The girl who
is to have but one school coat, however.
ought to get a good, stout ulster, In blue,
tan, black or brown, which may be worn
with all her different frocks, as a plaid
coat should not be worn with other frocks,
and. besides. it becomes somewhat weari-
some IL there is nothing to change with.
or course there must be supply of shirt
waists to wear INTERCHANGEABLE with the
dress waist Thin waists-known as lingerie
waists-are to be worn all winter. and when
fine and trimmed with lace and handwork
will be quite suitable for the matinee and
similar occasions. II white waists other
than those of cotton material are desired
1t Is a good plan to have them OF crepe de
chine or habutai silk. Taffeta does not wash
or clean readily neither does satin. The
crepe de chine and habutai may be put into
the laundry without fear. For the heavier
waists for school white mohair washes very
well; so do white corduroy. mummy cloth
and wool batiste. Among the colored silk
waists new ones shown for general wear
are of plaid or fine pin check silks. For the
matinee pale pink. pale yellow and pale blue
waists of habutai or crepe de chine are
very pretty. They are trimmed with feath-
erbone, insertion and valenciennes ruffies.
The fine crepe de chine and the lingerie
waists to be worn over colors are also ex-
ceedfngly pretty. All OF these also have
the advantage Of being easily laundered.
As has been said, simple evening frocks
are made of fine cashmere. Fine wool crepe
Is also used and is better style than crepe
de chine. Such gowns are exceedingly pref
ty made as full princess frocks, shocked
around the low neck in q broad band, again
at the waist line in q broad band both
above and below the waist and at the bot
tom OF the short puffs which form the
the shocking. Is trimmed with bands OF
satin ribbon of the same shade as the gown
which Is also used In several rows around
the sleeves and around the bodice between
the waist and shoulders. At the back OF
the waist bow Of the ribbon IL fastened
with long ends that fall to the Ground. For
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22
Trimming Of the New Tricornes.

FROM the Millinery Trade Review.
The new Tricornes are most becoming
One shape particularly took my fancy, It
Is almost plateau turned up nearly YER
ucaliy at the back and nipped In at the
Sides little In front OF the ears the front
coming forward in an oval dip over thu
brow. A nut brown felt OF this shape has
tho upturned portions of the brim draped
with loose folds OF velvet of deeper shade
In the nip over the left ear Is placed
small pouf Of ostrich tips OF the same
brown as the felt. but Hinged slightly with
dull pink and surrounded by q loose sheaf
of aigrette slanting backward
Another Tricorne Of a more simple char
acter has bowler crown. and the brim Is
turned or rather folded back SO as to OBJ
tain regular three-cornered shape one
OF the points being in front. was shown
this In white felt, the crown encircIed by
fold OF white velvet In which was & band
OF old silver lace. The under side Of the
brfm was faced with black velvet and
against the left side were placed two white
couteaux. The bandeau was concealed by
white velvet bow, the loops Of which
were drawn through chased silver slids.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22
in style and material allowed in the modern

wedding gown.
After all, beautiful and effective as are
satin and point lace. they are not becoming
to all styles of beauty, and in many in
stances in these days of extremely youthful
brides much more youthful and suitable in
appearance are the fascinating gowns made
of chiffon or with quantities of lace entire
deux and hounces.
Jane Hading's wedding gown as worn by
her In LIE Maitre des Forges'' is a charm
ing example of this same youthful style of
form. Exquisite are the lines of the model,
while the soft folds of the plated chiffon
seem but to be accumulated by the lace that
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22
School Girls Should
Have Good Compilations
BY MARGARET F. SANGSTER.
Copyright. 1905, by Joseph B. Bowles.)

A school girl of fourteen is old enough to
care good deal about her looks, and no.
body should blame her or accuse her Of
vanity IL she wishes for good complexion
and bewails a bad one. l have shown
mothers who worried not little because
JESSIE and Jennie liked to look in the glass
as they passed it, and who seemed to think
the custom worthy of reproof.
Now, girls, please dono't tell any one if
whisper my own little secret. 1 have al
ways loved to see myself in a mirror, and.
to this day, / cannot resist its fascination
and am sure unless in great haste to keep
an appointment, to pay my respects to it
as I go through the room where 1t hangs.
A friend of my girlhood had a lovely room
in which were four long mirrors set in four
high doors. 1t was my delight to take
book to that room and seat myself on a sofa
in the middle of 1t, with looking glass in
each corner. repeating the furniture and
books as well as the young person In the
cepter. Later 1 slept. during a visit to the
south, in a chamber of which one side of
the wall was great, cleaning sheet of
glass; from dashboard to ceiling. In that
room colonial bellies had dressed for colo
NAL dances In the days of long ago In
these days when I look In the glass / do
not see my own face only, but often seem
to see faces Of dear ones who are not with
who were once here. You are too young
to have the sort of pleasure in looking
glass that you will have by and by. Mean
while, when you come to visit me, you may
look In the glass as much as you like.
II
I hope you will see pretty complexion
reflected there.
A complexion has great deal to do with
girlfsh beauty For one thing, 1t is an
index to your health, sickly complexion
showing unerringly that the body is out
OF order. rough. sallow or pimply COM
plexion. with red spots or the ugly things
called biackheads, disdgufe any girl and
spoil the effect of regular features as a
blotch or blur would spoil picture.
There are few things to do, and few
not to do. II you would have a nice skin
and good color, and be free from hollis.
pimples and unsightly patches upon your
face Indispensable to q good complexion
Is bath from head to foot eyery day.
Tho best time for this bath Is In the morn
Ing as soon an you RISE Wash THOROUGHLY
every Inch Of the body. and dry with
rOuGA towel. % that the friction Will
brink warm glow 70 the surface. tuh
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22
IoNG WHITE SfTM WFCDNG NGWN
WITH flOUlT, l@cE

woman's wardrobe that can be made in
picturesque style to more advantage than
can the wedding gown. There is the oppor-
tunity for the long-trained skirt, to begin
with; then as a wedding gown Is viewed
from a distance and a more exaggerated
style Is possible than when the gown Is to
be viewed near by, the court train Is prac-
tical style; for instance, 1t is separate from
the gown, and at other times the gown can
be worn without 1t. A charming fashion is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22

the possibility Of their being softened by
lace. One of the favorite models this au-
tumn has the front entirely Of lace, both
skirt and waist being covered In front with
lace put on full enough to lie In soft, be-
coming folds. The contrast Of the soft lace
front with the rather severe lines of the
close-fitting back is effective and very
smart and looks well made up In satin or
silk The model is not good one to choose
for any thin material, however. for any
trimming spoils the general effect, and thin
materials require a lot of trimming to be
satisfactory.
Picturesque effects are excellent in the
heavier IA briCs. and there Is no gown In a
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22

the entire gown of lace. with the long train
from the shoulders made of heavy satin or
velvet preferably the former materially.
Then on the train may be border of
heavy embroidery worked on the material
itself or in bands of passementerie of varied
widths. The width of the embroidery is de-
termined by individual taste. There may be
most elaborate design covering the lower
part of the train for some distance.
1t makes an immense amount of difference
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22

bath is not necessary. A sponge bath is
quite as good if you have no tub.
Some girls fancy that soap must not be
put on the face. This is old-fash ioned
prejudice. Everything depends on the
soap, which ought to be of the best quality.
In toilet soap it is wise to purchase a
delicate variety, not of the very cheapest,
either. Wash the face thoroughly every
night at bedtime with fine soap and tepid
water. rinsing well and removing the
lather, and drying 1t with a soft towel
Once day is often enough to use soap on
the face, but this one using should never
be omitted.
Blackheads are Accommodations of dust
and dirt IN the pores of the skin. To press
them out with a watchkey to fuss with
them at all Is very foolish. A little cold
cream may be applied, after the thorough
washing with soap, but this is seldom nee
essary. A school girl whose face is really
clean will have no blackheads to bother
her.
AS for freckles, they are the kisses of
the sun on fair skin and no one should
be worried over them. If they do distress
a girl, she may remove them by using
lemon juice freely. adding to ii an equal
portion of much diluted glycerine. Never
use glycerine either with rose water or
lemon juice, unless you dilute 1t freely
with water. country girl may drive
away freckles by washing her face fire.
quently with buttermilk, which Is one of
the best possible lotions for the skin. Be
very particular never to use another per-
SON tower anu WaSn-clotuS
Be very careful to keep the bowels in
good order The human frame is not I'M
like a stove. Unless the ashes are daily
removed from a stove 1t becomes clogged
and the fire does not burn freely. The
debris of food must be removed from the
body, or constipation will result from ne
gIect and all sorts of troubles march
after constipation. A girl should be as
conscientious In maintaining her physical
health In this particular as in any other.
The root Of outward beauty is in inward
cleansing every day. Take plenty of out
door exercise. Run, jump. skate. in sea-
son, play tennis and basket ball and live
a cool room with the windows open Fresh
air and exercise are good beauty prescrip-
tiens
Among the things not to do let me first
caution you against eating too many
sweets. The candy habit is responsible for
most of the hateful pimples and the sallow
skin that girls so much dread When
hear that much of school girls allowance
goes into the confectioner's money drawer
need to know nothing more Too many
chocolates. too much fudge. too many bon
bons, and our young lady will have rough
ness and resiness instead of cream tints
and rose-ieaf delicacy.
X
Avoid hot breads coffee and tea. and de-
licious pastries and tarts Good roast bees
vegetables soups and desserts of fruit are
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22

plump girl fiat shirring would be better
than the shocking
quantity pretty net frock is trimmed
with tiny wreaths of ribbon roses all around
the skirt and the top of the bodice. The
girdle, made of rose-shaded silk, has long
ends and the sleeves, of very short puff
and wide ruffie of net, have wreaths of
roses around them. This is prettiest in COL
ors, pink with pink roses, yellow with yell
low and white roses, pale blue with pale
pink roses and green with white and red
roses.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22

garnltures is velvet ribbon of various widths
either of the color of the gown or con-
tTdsting shade. The blouse or gumpe worn
with this costume would very properly be
of chiffon of the color of the gown or a
contrasting shade. A very pretty gown of
this sort was of tan cashmere with the vel
vet ribbons of the same color put on in a
scroll pattern about the bottom of the prin-
cess skirt. The top of the belt, showing
just below the bolero had the same scroll
patterns to outline it,, and the boiero itself
was trimmed with it all around the edge
and on the bottom. of the sleeves, which
were little more than capes falling half
way to the elbow. Pulled sleeves of white
chiffon fell below these capes to the elbow
and the blouse was of white chiffon An
yellow cloth set in around the skirt, on
which the bands of gray velvet were
stitched in straight, narrow rows.
This gown had girdle of the yellow cloth
the baby waist had a deep yoke and cuffs
of the same material A neat little after
noon gown shown in the Illustration Is of
rose cashmere trimmed with rose embroid-
cry on white cloth hands. The blouse Is of
very fine white batiste. Exceedingly pretty
afternoon gowns also trimmed with
narrow edgings of guipure and with valen-
ciennes. An old blue lady's cloth frock
had q yoke and deep cuffs made of the mar
row guipure, put on up and down, and be-
tween which the cloth showed In spaces.
The girdle of this gown was of Powered
pompadour ribbon in old blue, pink and
white, and had long ends reaching to the
bottom of the skirt. A green cashmere
gown had yoke of valenciennes and ruff
Hes OF YaiencienneS In the short pulled
sleeves. This was a princess gown. The
bottom of the gown and the top of the
waist as well as the sleeves were trimmed
with bands of green silk edged with narrow
gold cord
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-22

There is always great difference of
opinion in reference to the most satisfactory
style of head gear for bridesmaids. Big
hats-agafn the picturesque effect-are be-
coming in the picture hat shape. whether in
black with ostrich plumes or In color to
match the gown. Small hats dainty
and smart. If not so picturesque, and the
flower toques are always thought fashion,
able Wreaths of flowers and leaves, with
a high aigrette of ostrich tips or plumes
at the side, are thought effective. Ostrich
tips. worn with or without wells, are at
the moment also in style.
1t Is thought that it is a mistake for
bridesmaids to wear wells and white gowns,
for the reason that then the brides gown
does not stand out in sharp contrast, but
there are many conservative people who feel