Alma record. (Alma, Mich.) 1878-1928, 1905-07-07

J from the depths Of the tremendous cav
ern into which the river tumbles ap-
pears like column OF smoke rising
from burning village and during the
last mile OF the railway Journey the
roar of the falling water becomes no
iceable. Finally, when the edge OF
the chasm is reached. II the river is in
food, the eye and ear are assailed by
combination OF phenomena that prob
ably cannot be duplicated as marvels
anywhere else on the planet
The first question that is asked OF an
American who has seen this African
wonder generally is, How does II com
pare with Niagara There is no pos
sibility Of comparison. The two are as
different as day and night Niagara Is
a perfect picture in lovely natural
framework. Every point and line and
curve OF motionless rock, trembling
verdure and gliding water is a touch of
majestic beauty. Victoria is simply
phenomenon. a terrific cash I'm the floor
Of an apparently unending plain, which
as one gazes simply swallows a river
In manner that produces almost a
thrill OF horror
The ZambeZi valley for n hundred
I miles or more IN every direction from
the cataract is rough aud broken
| plateau covered with low brush and
stunted trees, with here and there an
outcrop Of somb0r basatic rock. all
thoroughly embarrassing The heritage
is but family green and the tropical
a N ii q
half tone landscape. wanting In clear
cut lines In every direction and lacking.
above everything else, that element
we always unconsclously seek IN
nature picture-life. The absence OF
this produces In the mind a feeling OF
loneliness and often OF fear. Across
this solemn scene appears a river that
In food time is perhaps half a mile
wide II deaf man were following
down one OF It's banks he would notice
little but the quiet water and De odd
looking column OF smoke ahead. As
thls column was approached he would
expect 10 see the river banks bending
and the water flowing away 10 one
Side or the conlagratlon and might
glance TO the right and left 10 note the
direction taken. But the panorama
changes as he gazes. The river is no
more, and there, where IL should be.
Is only the brown plain, as lonely.
brush covered and monotonous as ever
one must 60 twenty miles farther be-
fore the vanished water and the sur
race OF the land again commlngle. be-
Tore II Will DO possible to walk along
the bank In company with the river
30 sudden Is the transformation.
Meantime the pillar OF smoke has re-
solved Itself into a dense mist forced
upward In terrible pufrs from a yawn.
ing cash stretching directly across the
bed OF the river This fearful abyss is
every second swallowing thousands of
tons OF green and white water and
oelching up blasts OF mist that rise
hundreds OF feet into the air and hurry
away with the winds as II rejoicing
1T their escape from the inferno be-
low. And omewhere, nearly 400 feet
below, the entrapped river is lighting
u way between sheer walls of black
rock toward narrow cleft In the
eastern wall. whence II escapes. foam
ng and boiling. through the ziezars
Ind curves OF a deep gorge leading or
o the eastward. One goes to an edge
u this delivering chasm and looks
Town upon the tossing waters, ever
PRESSED from behind by other foods
out OF the narrow black
gateway, and perhaps the most prom
nent mental sensation Is that Of thank
ulness that even In such q grim and
NASTY way nature has provided
neans by vhich the fearful slit Of a '
hroat abov that has swallowed the
tream can disgorge II again without 9
ausing an overwhelming catastrophe.
The Victoria cataract should be visit
at least twice before one is compe-
ent to pass an opinion upon IL. When
be river Is In flood duly the scene IL :
imply terrible. One sees nothing but
n enormous sheet OF water disappear. :
ng into the bowels Of the earth with
noise as OF mountains falling upon :
ne another, while from the awful cash
ONES back in fierce gusts and swirls
he foaming breath Of the tortured ele-
lent below But In December, when
be water In low. the edge Of the catn- ),
act shows as long. creamy dim OF
'vely lace; the rising mist flows soft p
: away through the little rain forest '
Glow the cavern's lip; the gigantic r
ault itself becomes a wonderful spec
lcle, n dream Of neutral tints, a cave
beauty. Far down In Its dark
epths the waters. gliding along the u
,cky walls and bending gracefully
round the corners toward the narrow b
utet pass gayly and laughingiy to
'eedom. For time the demon Of tbe
,taract r. DISQUALIFICATION r. Van "