The Washington times., 1905-11-01
MODES OF SIMPLE OUTLINE MADE
ELABORATE WITH DECORATIONS
Trimmings and Details the Important Feature
Deft Touches in Lace and Velvet
Long Lines Favored

Most important is the skirt hem in the
latest fashions. For quite some time we
have heard Of stIeseif5essii mems as having
actually arrived, but il is only in high
class productions-gowns whose cost
runs up well into three figures-that
they have really been generally in evi-
dence. So bOunant have the modes be
coHe-slowly and gradually. it is true.
but none the less surely-that the stiff
fened hem is now almost prerequisite
10 the success OF the gown. This is OBJ
ViOus 10 the casual observer in almost
any type OF gowns; but in the lOng-coat-
ed tailor-made, that is expected TO rule
street costume for the winter, il is more
imperative. perhaps. than il any other
connection.
This stiffening. this mode that works
unseen. IS accomplished By very differ
ent methods. The tailor employs one.
and the dressmaker quite another For
the street costume, the wOoltex tailor
made, a princess haircioth, is a vast
faVor1te- Several reasons serve TO com
mend this fabric, the chief of which is
that II Is far lighter than the usual
tailor's canvas point TO be needed
when one considers the weight of a
cloth skirt some eight yards or so wide
AZ the hen-ano d secondary one that is
Iully as important TO the Wearer is that
II VIII not sag This IS inserted after
the old-time fashion. between the lining
and the skirt-fOr the best tailors are
ali returning to the method Of lining
the skirt, rather than having it hang
unAned over drop petticoat.
The aressmaker, however, refuses to
renounce the drop skirt; and Il is on
this that she relies for that pretty
line at the hem which a gown must,
perIOrces d1snlay. The circular ruffie
with which ali mOdish drop skirts are
made, has row after row of flexible
1eatherbone run IN, so that there is
quite little resemblance Of this uoint
TO the hoOpskirts Of we olden time
The resulting effect is pretty much
the same IN both cases, a pretty flare
and hou to the skirt, which. however.
must not even sint at stiffness, for Il
IL does the frock VIII surely lose every
scrap OF It's modish charm.
The outline. the silhouette. Of the
very latest co1ceits IN dress is a
charmtngly simple one. The line from
shoulder to hem IS expected TO be
clear and distinct; and the underarm
curve IS much emphasized. This clear
cut impression is one that must be
maintained. and the trimming scheme
is 10 be suborcinated to il.
But while subordinate the trimming
schemes Of the present modes are al
Of them pretty well elaborated. The
high-class shops are displaying laces
in which the pattern is run over with
tiny shaded ribbons, just about three
shades Of one color being used. The
ribbons themselves are narrower than
oven the bebe ribbon that one employs
FOR lingerie purposes, albeit they are
a trtfe heavier and wider than the
Marie AntiOnette strands that are so
much used for embroidery. This lace
sign running through all. A charm
ing use Is made Of this dainty conceft
IN employing the lace in narrowing
sets FOR nOuncing with shaded ribbon ac-
cording in color with the silk founda-
tiODs.
4 very modish effect is gained IN dot
ting the many nouuces that are so
freely used upon dress tOilettes with
velvet bows. Sometimes il is a very
large stin bow that is tackled on at far
intervals: and again It Is cute. fuzzy
little bow or rosette that is used and
those are spaced far or near, accord
ing 10 the design. one very smart frock
in a dead white cne-seam creme de
chine Is cieVerly touched uD with a
vivid coral-pink velvet. the panne va
riety being used as presenting a less
bulky apear&ncg VIIstu the usual weaves
The bodice is deeply decollege. on sur
plice lines, the folds of crepe being
drawn from the middle down. and the
deep Y In front filed i'm with a rfbbon-
wrought lace, edged with a piping of
bias velvet. Right at the left side OF
this front there is a large bow of the
coral velvet, the white ceintura is
strapped with ii. and the fiounce en- the
skirt-there are three from knee 10
etiTened hem-haTe replicas Of the cor
sage bow tackled on al irregular inter-
Srafs with the most charming effect
IN the new skirts that offer themseIt es