davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09


maker, and that regardless of the conse-
quent bill.
For those whose purse strings are not
sufficiently elastic to afford The real Irish
crochet, there are designs in many of the
braid laces that are most effective and Of
comparatively little cost. The Italian,
Honiton and Brussels braids are all used.
and these follow some conventional de-
sign, the coat or gown being shaped in the
stitches that connect the braids and form
the pattern.
These lace coats are among the smartest
of the spring novelties, and while the
godet back loose pattern Is shown, the
more closely fitting designs of the Louis
periods, with their basques and hip-pocket
flaps, are the better purchase. Indeed.
under the guise of dinner coats, these are
being sold in Paris at prices which would
make one stare. They are at their best
made up over a handsome brocnde or
warp printed silk, In warm colorings;
layer of chiffon being interposed between
the lace and the lining, or omitted. &C
cording to the character and design of
the lace and the silk.
The Lierre laces are dainty and really
appropriate for the dancing frocks of the
demoiselle, as no other lace seems to be.
These are best fashioned with series
of fiounces, upon which the design Is dis
played. the ,bebe bodice having q bertha
that follows the founees OF the skirt In
character andtdesign.
And next In vogue Is The lace encrusted
wrap or gown. There is simply no end
to the laees that are used for this pur-
pose, and real and imitation often mingle
In the one garment, and that without any
touch of gaucherie, either. Indeed so
elaborate are these organisations at times
that 1t is a question whether the gown is
of linen or of lace. And not only linen Is
so treated, but net, silk, batiste, the
lighter weaves of satin and crepe de chine
and with the heavier laces the silk-warp
henriettas and the finer of the cachemires.
Separate motifs, set designs, continuous
patterns all are used Unfortunately,
and one can give free play to the fancy
for originality in this, II in no other
decoration of dress in the present modes.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

or else In hardanger designs. This work
of the Norway peasants has created a
perfect furore for itself, and with emil
nenty satisfactory results One must be
careful to shrink the linen foundation
thoroughly before beginning to work, for
the thread is already fully shrunken in
the making, and when the coarse linen
shrinks In the laundry then the threads
pull loose and crooked, and the beauty
of the work Is spoiled.
There Is a new cut, in accordance with
the new fashions, for the dainty lingerie
blouse. The back shows much curved
seams at the side, and the fronts follow
this same curve. An underarm gore Is
inserted In many, and they all conform
much more closely to the lines of the
figure than did the blouse Of last season.
The fact that the belt must now match
the blouse rather than the skirt, does
much to add to the appearance of length
and slenderness at the waistline, which
cannot fall TO prove becoming to every
type of build and figure.
The sleeves of the new blouses are as
full and as puffy as heart could wish
The new shoulder Is broad, and is ex-
pected to stop at the natural curve of the
shoulder, and not go one iota of an inch
beyond. The sloping shoulder of last
season is absolutely demode; and no one
would think of fashioning this seasons
blouse after n passe design.
No matter what the character of sleeve
selected it must bunch out broadly ut
the shoulder Pleats are used for its in
sertion rather than shirrings, because In
the laundering these will stand out we'll,
while the shirrings are inclined to drag
downwards. Full leg o. mutton sleeves
single, double and even triple puffs, are
mounted with a more or less deep cuff at
the wrist. For morning and informal
wear the full-length sleeve prevails; but
in the dresslcr productions the sleeve
stops mt some point farther up the arm.
Where the elbow Is pretty and dimped,
then the sleeve is shortened to display
this attraction, but where the lower arm
is not daintily rounded the three-quarter
sleeve is the selection.
And the riot of laces and appliques
which are applied TO these waists that
cannot already boast of hand embrod-
cries! All sorts of separate and separ-
able motifs are used, and very often their
fashioning into a set design is almost
work of art in itself. Lace and EN-
broidery and fancy stitching are COM
bined, and originality of design and ap-
plicntion is the goal of every designer,
whether she be amateur or professional.
The popular bretelle design works out
well in those waists strips of embroidery,
wide or narrow entire deux of lace, aud
even bands of tucklng, with the tucks
running in contrary direction 10 those
upon the blouse proper, all of these are
made excellent use of.
Aud the latest conceit of the clever
Parisienne has shaped girde made In
one with the blouse. This Is preferably
of tucking, since thetucks afford an added
strength and stability to the sheer ma
terial. Whatever lace or embroidery APP
pears on the waist is used on the cein-
ture, and little rods OF featherbone are
used to hold 1t well into the figure. For
the short girl this will answer admirably;
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

Such a furore for laces-laces of all
kinds and characteristic is becoming ap-
parent all over the fashionable eenters of
Europel
That is. the real handmade laces, whose
cost Is almost fabulous, and the weaving
of which demands oftentimes years of
patient toll: that IL is these which the
queens of fashion are wearing goes almost
without saying.
There are entire gowns OF real Irish
crochet, the pattern made in the bebe
stitch, and on this are appliqued odd and
quaint motifs in the closer work which
shows up to most artistic effect upon the
filny background. Seam nor stitch. other
than the crochet cannot be detected in
the entire robe, which is offered ready TO
mount; and the marvellous part of 1t Is
that, although such gowns often require
more than year to crochet, the width of
the skrt,t size and shape of the sleeves,
and the lines of the bodice part are all
of them In strict accordance with the Mt
most requirements of the vogue of the
present moment
One exquisite piece was on view at the
London atelier of one of those titled
ladies' who have gone into trade in such
numbers recently. The background was
the bebe chain, with little Topped brides
at intervals. Upon this was crocheted
design of passion flowers and trailing
vines in the solid crochet. the whole done
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

the waist below the tucks. The sleeve Is
a full leg-o'-mutton pattern. and a smart
style Is given TO the wrist portion by bias
insertions of a narrow embroidery with
lace. The high collar is likewise fash
iored of this work, and the fastening Is
made in the back.
The Ceinture Blouse.
The latest coneeit from Paris shows a
blot with cleyerly shaped girdle fash
toned In one with the blouse. There is
round or bebe yoke OF small fine
tucks, and to this the blouse is applied
with a narrow entre-deux OF real Nal
tese lace supplemented by fancy fagot-
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

The material is one of those sheer hand
kerchief linens to which there is no wear
out, no matter how frequent their trips
to the laundry may be. Over the Shout
for the slender wearer, there is a shallow
yoke of small tucks. To this broad
band fashioned of Madeira motifs, ing-
Gifted TO frame of Valenciennes, is APP
sclnt band of shlrred linen, this cut to
shane so that the requisite length Is given
to the front and a slight lift at the sides.
attached to this aud beneath the belt
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09
lures in Material Design of Current Fashions

ting. The fronts of the blouse are ex-
quisitely elaborated with hand embroid-
cries. solid raised work adding TO the
charm of the open eyelets. The sleeve is
a double pun, with deep cuff, the NAL
tese lace being used effectively upon
both. The feature Is the shaped ceinture.
which Is edged at both ends with the
lace and fancy stitches, rounding deeply
Narrow rods of featherbone serve to ad-
just the shape to the figure.
Dainting Design with CrOsswise
landings.
For the slender girl this design offers
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

shows up to perfection. In the model
there is pointed shoulder yoke, In which
the tucks are run fine and close together.
The body of the blouse, In which the
tueks are farther apart, is applied with
scant shirring. and a large empiecement
In broderie anglaise is posed directly In
the front, little entre-deux of valenci-
ennes running either side. The sleeve Is
a novel design. extremely full at the
shoulder, and with tucks at the wrist
part TO adjust the fullness to the shape
OF the arm. The cuffs of plain white
linen. lace-trimmed. are detachable.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

There are charming sets of chemisette
and undersleeves made In the sheerest of
lingerie materials. All the tucks are hem
stitched by hand, fancy stitches fill many
spaces and the real Valenciennes is whip
ped to a rolled hem for an edge. The col
lar band is frequently omitted on the
chemisette; its place being taken by the
Alexandra necklace In black or white Jet,
both OF which are extremely fashionable,
as well as extremely expensive, on the
other side of the Atlantic
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09
Charming Mode for the Pattern
Waist.

The shops are showing all manner of
dainty waists already stamped 10 be EN-
brCidered by fair fingers and of these,
those showing the eyelet or broderie an
glaise designs, Us the French term this
openwork are among the chiefest of favor
ties. One of the simplest and at the same
time most effective ways of making up
these pattern waists is shown In the pic
ture. Over the shoulders small tucks are
run, these stitched TO yoke shape and re-
leased after a few inches to afford the
REQUIRED fullness over the bust. The en-
Aoidered portion occupies the front of
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

there Is a shaped peplum Of the linen TO
hold the waist down. The sleeve Is ex-
tremely simple, just two medium puffs. of
the linen, Joined with n lace Insertion
above the elbow and finished with a cun
OF tucking and lace. The fastening Is In
the back.
After the Bretelle Design.
The insertions of narrow Mechlin lace
are cleverly posed to give the effect of
bretelles or braces. an idea which charac-
terizes some of the newer NODES The
blouse of sheer batiste is tucked at the
shoulders, the tucks released over the
bust; and in the center Of the front there
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

Is large passion flower device In
guipure effect, with embroidery appliqued
on and the batiste cut away beneath.
The sleeve Is full gigot design, with
shallow cuff of tucks and lace.
In shower of Hail Muslin.
That fine and sheer dotted Swiss which
our grandmothers used to distinguish as
shower of hail. because of the smallness
aud closeness of the dots, is among the
recent resurrections In fashions category.
For the lingerie blouse ii Is exceptionally
good, for even the slightest piece of trim
ming or elaboration, II well contrasted,
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

and, indeed, with deft handling there is
no reason why the tall and the sho :,
the dumpy and the wilowy, should not
adopt this smart concelt, and to their
much improvement, too.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09
Odds and Ends of
Fashion News.

Lengthwise straps and strappings are
feature of the newer modes, and anything
and everything that will suggest bretelles
or suspenders is received with favor.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

The bunch of grapes design which was
SO oyerdone in .passementeries season or
two ago. has returned TO favor as an en-
broidery pattern. The grapes are repre-
sented by eyelets and the leaves and stem
In solid blind work.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

The latest couture calls for n hair net,
since the hair is disposed in a multitude
of small waves and curls. The practice
of rufing the hair to form a pompadour,
and Of continuous waving with hot irons
has broken OFF the hair of so many fash
ionable mondaines that the nets are hailed
with joy as keeping all of those stray and
irregular ends In place and yet not inter-
fering with the hutfiness of the dressing
The new couture nets are really invisible
In wear, being made of human hair.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09
A Geisha Blouse with Deep
Berthe Drapery.

While there are two different genres OF
lace used In this smart blouse OF sheer
batiste, a net top oriental and venetian
euipure. there is no effect of patchiness
or suggestion of remnants to the design.
The broad shoulder shows yoke OF Inch
tucks that are pressed fat to box pleat
shane. and this yoke is bordered all
around with an insertion OF the venetian
guipure. In chemisette style there Is an
insertion of the same lace In a larger de-
si0n. in which the collar and chemisette
ore pieced in one. Below the yoke the
full berthe drapery of the oriental lace
il posed. this coming all the way around
and Just touching the top Of the belt.
similar style is followed in the sleeve,
10 bead the flounee that hangs below the
elbow. and the full pun of batiste. is fin
ished with ruffie of this same lace at
the hand.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

Net frocks. In both the silk and the cot
ton esprit nets, are among the prettlest
of the simple effects for demoiselless
wear. The foundation Is either colored
lawn or China silk; rarely Is 1t OF taf-
fetas. The lowered Dresden ribbons.
with plain satin edge. are used for cein-
lures. sashes, bretelles and nair rlpbons
in connection with these smart. although
inexpensive frocks.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

The radium silks are being muchly used
for those dainty separate blouses, of
which no mondaine can have too many.
In the opalescent colorlngs 1t is particu-
larly beautiful, and yards and yards of
yellowish Yalenciennes goes to Its adorn-
mput
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

chiffon, besides having a trihe more body
and assuredly more lasting endurance.
Necklaces show no signs of a waning
vogue. With the collarless blouses which
Paris is still pushing for warm weather
wear strands of fine-cut beads that will
encircle the throat tightly are the latest
vogue. somewhat after the dog collar pat
tern. but without the outstanding slides of
that style.
The Birmingham age-herald. [volume] (Birmingham, Ala.) 1902-1950, 1905-04-09

Mousseline de sole is replacing chiffon
Tor many purposes, and this is a trend
In the direction of economy, for the NOUS
seine is fully as soft and sheer as is the
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1905-04-19
ATHLETES use
TEETH '|E':]|: TO WIN
Son of Eli Put His Brand on a
Son Of Pennsyl-.
$3.50 vania. r.,


New York Sun Special Service. H..
New York, April. 19.-An incident at the
water polo match on Saturday between Yale and
the University Of Pennsylvania, tho unnoticed
by the majority, of the crowd may result in
injuring the present friendly relations between
the two universities. IT. ~
During an exciting, scrimmage near Pennsyl-
yania's goal Thomas s. Mcdonald, the red and
blues star goalkeeper, was bitten in the left
breast, 1t is charged, by one Of the Yale for
wards. Tho blood flowed freely from the wound,
Mcdonald continued to play. and managed to
finish the game, which was finally won by Yale
with a. score of one goal to nothing.
When the news Of the incident spread thru
the university the student body became justly
Indignant. The alleged biting of a Yale man by
a PENNSYLVANIA player In the last football game
played between Pennsylvania and Tale is still
remembered by the alumni. For many years
after that memorable game there were no ath-
letic relations at all between the New Haven
college and the University Of Pennsylvania.
The feeling was Strong at first, as Pennsyl-
vania fatty denied the charge, and it was not
until the members Of this years team had been
graduated that efforts were, made toward re-
newal. Of relations. Inarecent years Pennsyl-
yania and Yale have met on the track and at
baseball and basketball, but no football game
has been scheduled.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1905-04-19
PHONES PLEA OF GUILT;
FINED OYER THE PHONE
New York Sun Special Service.

. Bloomington, ILL.,, April ia plea
of guilty by telephone and the assess
ment Of fine by justice, also over the
phone, are reported from Logan coun-
ty. Revert Willard was served with
a warrant by Constable Petit: Will
lard was anxious to avoid leaving his
farm work, now at. its height, and per
suaded the constable to notify the JUS
tice that he was guilty. He asked the
amount of the fine and when told that
it was $14 at once sent that amount to
the Justice by mail,
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1905-04-19
NELsoN w1LL EIGHT RILEY.

New YORK Sun special SefV1ce.
Milwaukee, Wis. April 1s.--Battlng Nelson's
Riley. the hard-hitting lightweight. Riley's
manager received letter from J. r.. Webster,
matchmaker of the Buckingham Athletic club
ffteenround battle with the Dane for some
date between May and TO- He Immediately
accepted
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1905-04-19
SCHooLBoYS IN RING FIGHT.


NeW 1oiE sun sgec1a1 SeIvlcg; .., :.
the Hyde Park high school football team. and
Richard Horn. track athlete st the South Side
school, were each suspended for month by
Principal G. W. French when he learned today
of a fight to a finish in which the boys had
engaged as the result of differences. Six other
students, who acted as seconds to the COM
'batants. were also suspended until further no
tice. -. %..-.., -
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1905-04-19
MICHIGAN WON SECOND.

Madison. Wis, April 19.--Aictigon made it
two straight in its second gene Of the season
with Wisconsin here yesterday: The score was
4 to 3. The visitors excelled both In stick and
head work, which enabled them to win out.
They made four more errors than Wisconsin. but
none Of them came at critical points and hence
were not costly. At one time Wisconsin had
three men on bases, but failed to get any OF
them across the plate.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1905-04-19

PROPOSALS FOR FUEL, FORAGE AND
straw-Offce Of Chief Q. NJ. st. Paul, Mimi.
April L. ,leo5-sealed proposals, in triplicate.
will be received at this office until IL AM
Nav Is 1905 for furnishing such wood. coal,
corn oats, bran, hay and straw during year COM
1nencing July 1, 1905 as may be required at
Mont, Fort Lincoln, N. D.. Fort Yellowstone,
Wyo.. St. Paul and Fort Smelling, Minneapolis
and Duluth, MINI. Information furnished on APP
nlication here or to quartermasters at the sew
eral posts named. U. s. reserves the right to
accept or reject any or all proposals or any part
thereof w. w. Robinson. Jr.. C. @. NJ.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1905-04-19
A GREAT TRUTH.

Columbus Dispatch. =
eyes, said the man who occasionally thinks
aloud. that's why many marriages are fail
ures." - ~ ..
why is it?'' queried the party with the
rubber habit. -" -.. - - >
1.-The Average young man thinks girl would
rather be loved and pitied than dressed and
fed" explained the noisy thinker.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1905-04-19

fo- sixteen DAYS to 4 camera it is now possible
to watch a hui orel gradually: to see the
blossOEs close Mt night and reopen In the morn
ing; to seq the leaves increase in size and
. the starlens peep out. sali In the space OF a
minute or tvs. Z.
The Minneapolis journal. [volume] (Minneapolis, Minn.) 1888-1939, 1905-04-19

The king of isam has authorized loan
Of 100000 chiefly to be used for the
construction. Of new railways, ports, etc.
Twice-a-week plain dealer. (Cresco, Howard County, Iowa) 1895-1913, 1905-10-20
Golden RIDGE
Husking corn is now the order - III

Husking corn is now the order of the
day.
Fred Walter and Mrs. r. Golden
stein Sundayed with Mr.. and Mrs. II.
5. Miller, near Bonair.
q. w. Mast and wife and Mrs. Ren,
wagner and children Sundayed at the
Geo. Dell home.
Mrs. VIM. Walter and daughter Ell
la called Sunday afternoon at the
Aug. Walter home.
Will Wells, the nursery man is still
in our vicinity.
Misses Therese and Emma Bron-
ner spent Sunday afternoon at the q.
Mast home.
Albert, Johnnie and Alma Bronner
spent Sunday evening at the Aug.
Weinkauf home.
Miss Rosetta Walter spent Sunday
at the parental home.
Arthur Walter and wife Sundayed
at the John Michel home.
Mrs. John Bigalk was called home
one day last week on account of her
granddaughter being quite Ill.
Twice-a-week plain dealer. (Cresco, Howard County, Iowa) 1895-1913, 1905-10-20

the young folks took possession Of the
hall and jolly good time was had by
all. Mr.. and Mrs. Strict will make
their home on farm near dubuque.
May their home be a happy one, and
enjoy it long years, is the wish of
their many friends.
James Upton and Arthur Barker of
Cresco attended the Steffen-Strief
wedding here Tuesday.
J. Kruger from Charles City came
up Tuesday after his herd of ca title he
had pastured here during the sum
mer; he purchased number OF head
OF NJ. Vagts which he also took with
him.
Hattie Mast had the misfortun Of
having her face scalded Wednesday
morning by kettle of coffee explod.
ing-likely the lid was too tight,