Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-15
I * X
PARIS FASHIONS
* X x & ~
al Correspondence of The Star.

PARIS, September 30, 1905
The American who is not of International
social or financial reputation certainly has
an uncomfortable experience upon her
first visit to a famous dressmaking estab-
lishment in Paris. She is ushered, to be
sure, with great ceremony into an exqui-
site Louis empire salon, where, to her
unaccustomed eyes. an afternoon reception
seems to be in progress. Such is not the
case, it only seems like seeming. We
take our clothes very seriously nowadays,
and the fact is that some smart patron has
asked a few of her friends of both sexes
to drop in between 1 and 6, which are the
fashionable shopping hours, to the final
trying on of creation. When monsieur,
the artist, has finished his critical survey
of effects he advances politely If a little
inquiringly toward Nine Anonymous who
stammers out in her best French that she
would like a street, dinner or evening toilet.
Monsieur, recognizing the accents of one of
Uncle Sans countrywomen, puts out his
hand mysteriously and in response to this
summons graceful Englishwoman APP
pears, who is detailed to madame's service.
A polite snub at the very outset.
The discomfort of the visit is really just
beginning, for the shrewd attendant while
displaying some rather commonplace cos
tunes, is sizing up her customer and trying
to determine whether she be dressmaker
fashion writer or artistic dress designer
come to take sketches from memory. Not
her cousin Mrs. Standard Oil-This, a
friend, Miss Equitable Life-That recon-
mended her to the atelier does the at
mosphere become clear and serene. Then
a graceful procession of manikins glorious
ly arrayed in winter gowns Is ordered to
pass before her bewindered gaze IL an
escape is made without ordering more than
one frock which is too 'frenchy," fate has
been indeed kind to the stranger within the
sartoriaL gates. Such was the experience of
friend of mine the other day at one of
the most exclusive houses. Il got some
stunning IDEAS she remarked when asked
about her visit, "but 1 certainly paid for
them, both in discomfort and in coin of
the realm.
notion cleaned from this high author
| ity was that where formerly one or two
| tailor-made dresses took the average wo-
man successfully through a season, four or
| even five are ordered and considered neces-
| Sary In this year of grace A morning trot-
| teur dress. short of skirt and evolved from
| tweed cheviot homespun, another more
| dainty and elaborate gown for street wear
and two long-skirted visiting or carriage
| frocks.
am obliged to tell you that the trailing
| skirt is with us in all it's unhygienic length,
| blessing alike to the street cleaner and
caricaturist But it will sweep along In
disputed sway only in the afternoon. Pc
destrians to whom 1t Is a menace are duly
warned to keep out of the way during these
hours. Many dressy costumes have over
skirt effects. obtained by cutting the skirt
| In two or even three separate pieces, much
on the order Of iounces set on founda-
| ton skirt. The sheath jupon is another re-
vival of yesteryear. but the new develop
| ment has saucy fare at the feet that
would shock the old model. Great care
| should be taken not to get the back OF this
| skirt too tight. There must be fullness that
| Is not seen. such as Is to be obtained with
| inverted box p1aits.
| Fine French broadcloth in a new soft,
| medium shade of gray called platine Is first
| fayorite for calling costumes and mixed
era hs n
| in wool mixtures are happily employed for
| rough service street gowns. There is, too
| a coarse etamine In two-tone combinations
| that is very chic. Panama cloth in heav-
| Ter weave than have been wearing
comes IN plaids and stripes this season.
Shot chevlots are leaders in the world OF
fabrics and make UP into smart, serviceable
| gowns, but that we are to have success
| full broadcloth winter there is not shadow
| of doubt.
Parfsians are particularly devoted at pres
emit to a grayish olive shade which IS be-
| ing used for dress and millinery purposes.
| 1t has been expressiveIy dubbed pea soup
| green" and is, regret to say. becoming to
| green tones that are not trying, which when
| touched up with artistic correctness are
| fascinating. Speaking of touching up ef-
! fects," gold Is distinctly q feature OF the
| season in this line, with silver used In the
same manner Discretion is the better part
OF vaIor. though. where gold braid is in
| question. and relieving note is all re-
| fined woman will allow to appear on cos
tune. Illustrative Of this point. . pretty
| girl and her very evident ardent adj
mirer were watching the passing throng
| In the Bols yesterday afternoon when
q notwithstanding mademoiselle tricked
out in gown lurid with spiotches
OF gold tnpped contentedly along. Clothes
mean character" announced the pretty girl
"and that glittering maiden who's just gone
BY Is decidedly frivolous." The man raised
his eyebrows inquiringly at her. sOf
course" she continued. .you-no. not you.
but any woman-can tell any other wo-
mans character and disposition by her
dress. her heart by her hat, her mind by
her muslin scarf. and 80 on
But to return to gold trimmings. Little
eyelets and prongs to pass through the eye
| let's are smart finish to q dark tailored
gown. Cloth buttons set In rims OF gold
are also effective. 6tiH another permissible
touch u found In edgfng tucks with just
suspicion OF gilt braid.
Velvet three-piece gowns are one Of the
seasons novelties. and were st not for
chemfsettes and deep CUTS OF lace q waist
OF even the Hg1tweight velvet used now
adays would be unattracttve and clumsy.
The coats are Of the empire style and lined
With dainty AoWera6 silks. Bands ~ eafin
trim mnny ~ these velvet frock1. Wills 9TH