Albuquerque evening citizen. [volume] (Albuquerque, N.M.) 1905-1907, 1905-08-05
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Fashion Styles in New York
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FASHION FAvORITES IN DRESS

is more ubiquitous than ever this sea
SON, and one might easily fill columns
with descriptions OF linen frocks of
che elaborate class. Irish lace and all
the other handsome laces. hand m
broidery of every description. the
sheer laces. such as valencinnes, usu-
ally in combination with heavy EN-
broidery. braiding, painting-all of
these are considered appropriate trim
mings-and some of the most costly
frocks turned out by dressmakers
this summer nave belonged to the
linen group.
Much has been said about the cost
OF broderie Anglaise on linen, the
princess linen robes enriched in al
most every square inch by laces, en-
b%roidery, stitchery, the lace frocks,
whose identity is almost lost beneath
the wealth of trimming in embroid-
cred linen. and the linen frocks whose
lace trimming far exceeds in quantity
the amount of the linen foundation;
but afte- all, it is the simple tub
frock of linen that means the great
est good to the greatest number, and
because of its general appeal to
women, is the most important linen
items in the summer modes.
One hears that the shirt waist frock
is out of date, but It is only the name
mat is past. The severe shirt waist
blouse has lost prestige, but the sim
pie blouse and skirt costume OF linen.
pique, mardras that has been incor-
rectly ranked under the shirt waist
head, is still with us.
Pique. in eclipse for a time, has
come back into favor and found a
hnarfx- u-a1aanna 60. tbn.,f. -. a,-,s.. 7
that it keeps fresh longer than linen,
the latter mussing badly, though it's
excellent laundeii ing qualities Offset
this fault to a great extent.
The beautiful mercerized madras
stuffs, especially in white, are popu-
lar, too, for the type of tub frock un-
der discussion, the frock firm enough
and heavy enough to retain some de-
gree of freshness and trimness even
after a hard days wear-a thing i'm
possible to the very sheer stuffs, with
their tendency to b~edraggled limpness
under slight ~provocation.
These madras materials in the bet
ter qualities, have a high lustre which
Is not lost, though toned down to
agreeable softness in laundering, and
at ,heir best, they have small, effect
i've designs of circle, dot, lozenge.
etc. The large damask patterns are
still shorn, but are not popular this
year
White Is always the best choice for
a frock that is TO undergo frequent
Tubing, and despite frequent asser-
lions to the contrary. every summer
is primarily a white summer" No
other color is so universally becoming,
particularly at a season of flushed
laces. Nothing else looks so cool,
nothing else launders so well, and APP
preciating all these points, the sensi-
Die woman has a majority of her tub
frocks in white.
The colored linens are frequently
embroidered in white, broderie An
glaise being here, as elsewhere
throughout fashions province. par
ticularly favored. Sometimes the
handwork is nothing more complicated
than the buttonholing of scalloped
edges on color, cuffs, etc. Some
times il is more elaborate, and II is
done in the color of the linen even
more often than in white bands and
motifs of embroidery on white linen
are also used to trim simple frocks
OF colored linen.
Linen soutache in white trims some
of the pretty linen frocks, or rather
assists in trimming them, but these
frocks are usually of the bolero and
skirt persuasion. A costume il blue
linen with triple bolero trimmed in
white soutache and finished at the
neck with heavy lace and white cord
eieres belongs to this class. Another
boleTo costume, without the soutache
feature. is in soft green linen, with
collar revers and cuffs of fine, white
lingerie.
The bolero and the linen long coat
are both popular for the morning CO.'S
tune of Hnen-the latter when beau.
tifully tailored, being considered the
smarter of the two, but the appear
ance of the long linen coat after its
weafer has been sitting for some time,
or has been attempting to hold up her
skirt in the back, is lamentable, and
the hip length coats severely tail
ored keep their freshness and con
tours better than the five-eighths
length, which is much in favor.
Princess gowns of all kinds con-
tinue to hold high place in fashions
favor. and the makers grow more and
more clever in the shaping of these
difficult robes. One rather spectacu-
lar, but by no means, loud princess
gown, which recently aroused the en-
thusiasm OF fashion observers in
Paris, was of silk mouuline, in a duh,
gold tint. II was made of great full
ness of mouseline In the skirt and a
fully draped bodice, but absolutely
without trimming save for a stole
which fitted the yoke fashion around
the shoulders and ran down to the
hem of the frock in front, narrowing
at the waist line and broadening
Slightly in its progress from belt to
hem.
This stole, which chung closely to
the lines of the figure, was insuperb
heavy lace, tinted to match the mouss-
line and embroidered in dull colds
with touches of warm brown. The de-
scription sounds complicated, and
the stole was. Of course, a costly work
of art. but the long, straight lines of
the gown, with the concentration of
its richness in one piece of trimming,
gave the toilet an originality and
beauty that made it a sensation.
The draped bodies shares honors
with Louis coats, princesse robes, en-
pire and directoire modes, and though
the blouse has lost prdStige, the