New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, 1905-03-19
THE NEW PARIS FIGU RE.
Nine. De Pompadour the Model
French Women Copy This Spring.

This spring Partisan women are studying with
erdor the portrait of Nine. de Pompadour. IN
order that they may not miss single line or
in the figure Of that notorious French
beauty For il is her figure that has been selected
by Partisan authorities as a model for the new
hourglass shape
The Po1npadour figure demands pretty round
shoulders a slender well defined high bust and
long taperiug waist with straight line in front
and curved lines at the sides IL the fashions
worn now are to have any grace or meaning,
they must be fitted over this kind Of figure
The fashionable bodice at present is cut to
show no seams and draped across the figure 1t
may be shIrred down the front and DOWN the
hack and there may be lines of sfirrngs descend
ing under the arms. 1t is sometimes cut out IN
point or in heartshape and filed in with GuiTnpe
generally attached to the lining and a part of the
bodice. These general ideas for the blouse
which are of course. modified to suit personal
taste and to provide the necessary variety.
The popular materials for the spring are light
weight cloth and cashmere. Cashmere is newer
than CLOTH that IS it has been used for formal
toilets for many years But 1t seems difficult
to GUST cloth from the favor it has enjoyed so
long Although the original cost of fine face
cloth is considerable it is material that retains
shape and style. Cashmere. however comes in
all the new shades and is made up m the Pom
padour design described above. All the ochre and
mustard shades good style and thereaare for
trimming passementerie and laces dyed the color
of the stuff. Voiles much worn. well
under a ban: they hardly last year in
Paris and there is little prospect that they will
be much used this season. For COOL practical
spring and summer gowns there are thin, souple
mohairs and alpacas. These demand a more Sc
we're style than cashmere and cloth gowns. but the
material IS much more tractable than it used to
be- and is perhaps the best stuff FOR what
called in America "shirtwaist suits
THE ALL WHITE GOWN.
White gowns deliberately trimmed are very fash
ionabe. There has been attempt introduce
touch Of color on white costumes. but this idea
seems now be abandoned. and the all-whtte
tune Is again preferred. Cashmere and wolfe are
two inexpensive materials that be used for
iressy white gowns The all white costume. like
the all black toilet, demands considerable elabo-
rateness to be up to date. but the trimming need
not be of the costest variety. French dressmak-
ers are trimming both voiles and cashmeres with
English embroidery, and on voiles especially. there
is a great deal of hand work. small tucks and
drawn work. Another inexpensive trimming used
bv all the Rue de IA Paix couturiers is the use
of wide soft ribbon put in rufles. This Is often
bordered and headed with ruchings of narrow rib
bon. An embroidery of fine ribbon work is also
modish especially gowns and bouses OF IrsAa
lace These suggestions be utilized by the girl
who knows how TO do fancy work.
There is one important change IN millinery and
that is the use OF dressy small hats. The popu-
Iarity Of the three cornered shape Will probably
and there is the exaggerated boat shape, pointed
in front sharply turned on the sides, and some
times broad the back. Heavy. Iaceke straws
are to be used but there are great many hats OF
Grim and also Of stifened lace. Theatre hats
small, and elaborate OF gold lace. tiny flowers and
aigrettes.
In spite of small hats. French women are not
taking kindly the low couture. The favorite
style of hair dressing IS large bunch the
forehead. with a complicated arrangement of plaits
and pufFs The hair is beautifully waved but IL is
dressed rather close the sides and arranged be-
hind with a long comb put In vertically. For the
day the combs well as the hairDins match
nearly possible the color Of the hair but for the
evening there beautiful combs OF white shell
shaded In opalesceut hues and set with stones.
The shirtwast promised for the summer is really
a shirtwaist: that IS II has returned TO the sim
plcity of the original garment. The bishop sleeve
has disappeared. and In It's place IS the old time
shirtseeve. moderate in size at the top, set in 10
rise little, and ending In starched cuffs. More
dressy examples OF separate blouses show. a
rule an elbow sleeve made in a series OF puffs
in one pun ending IN a cum set above the elbow
When the sleeve is long II IS close ana tight the
elbow and pulled above.
SLEEVES ARE SMALLER.
Sleeves are really smaller than they In the
autumn. when there danger OF tho large gigot
sleeve becoming popular. The best advice sleeves
to-day is to make them broad the shoulders. but