Oxford Democrat. [volume] (Paris, Me.) 1833-1933, 1905-05-23
The Vogue In Paris.

adays a great deal both to Parisians and
to foreigners in Paris. Undoubtedly
the most important reason is that every
one lunches not later than twelve O'Clock
and dimes anytime between seven and
nine, so the interval is too long. Besides,
the fashion is to initiate the English In
all ways possible. The upper classes
appreciate the good things In their
neighbors, and endeavor to do likewise.
1 do not think, however, that they have
acquired real liking for tea, and prob
ably they never will, but they punish
themselves for the sake of good form.
They certainly do not know how to pre-
pare tea, nor even to drink it; but per-
haps years and practise will make a
change for the better.
There are not as many tea:rOOms In
Paris as in London, but there are some
very delightful ones, where one can have
a refreshing cup of tea, see many inter
esting people and hear exquisite music.
The Ritz is undoubtedly the most
elegant. Here are the real Parisians,
dressed as they alone seem to know how
to dress. Here, also, one runs across the
old aristocrats who yet find it hard to
understand the daring and liberty of the
American. The gay world has, since
the year of the Exposition, found the
Palace Elysee Hotel very attractive
Everything is artistic-soft toned lights,
beautiful coloring in the decorations,
and delightful music given by an OK.
ceptional orchestra. The Mercedes" is
the latest and the "Columbin' one Of
the oldest established tea-r0oms. No.
where does one find more delicious cake
and tea, and there are, moreover, always
pretty gowns galore.
And surely we have never had prettiel
gowns than this year. The colors in
vogue are so soft, resembling the tones
of old tapestries. As for materials
cashmeres, serges and hopsackings are
in favor for street gowns-in fact, al
soft, light tissues. Most of the models
shown are tightfitting over the hips, the
bottom of the skirt being very full. The
smartness of the costume lies in the
sleeves, which are full but not exaggerat
ed.
Double skirts are quite fashionable il
house gowns. A beautiful one seen late
ly was black crepe de Chine. Tht
overskirt (cut to V shape in 'front.' lay
in soft plaits, embroidered all around
with gold in the old Greek design, ant
here and there tiny punches of wheat
The corsage was slightly draped and thu
sleeves we're only a puff, ending in
band of gold embroidery. The effec
was very simple, but graceful.
Another gown was of gauze in shaded
tones of bronze and green. The bottom
of the skirt was trimmed with three
small ruchings caught up OCCASIONAL!
with bouquets of taffetas roses in thu
same shades. The bodice in Directoir'
style, of "taffetas glace," had long coat
tails. The belt in front was high ant
draped.
A lovely afternoon dress seen on TIT
Bots the other day was of blue clotl
with large Cluny insertion incrustation
at the bottom of the skirt; the cOrsag'
folded across the front and opened a
the top ovor Cluny guimpe. A deel
belt of blue taffetas, with large stee
buckle in DirectOire style and tucked
elbow sleeves finished with fiounces o
Cluny, gave most charming effect.
Short walking costumes are gaining
favor more and more with the French
and one does not feel quite so conspicu
Gus nowadays in ones natty American
costume. A very charming one Is il
dove-gray cloth, with large plaits stitch
ed down half way. The military Goa
in the same cloth had collars and lapel
of sapphire blue velvet, embroidered
with gold grenadeS. Double rows o
gold buttons finished this most daint
suit.
A rather more practical one is o
Scotch plaid in greens and blues. TIL
ll-shaped skirt is laid in panels fasten
ed together by small buttonhOles of blu
braid. The short bolero opens over ;
waistcoat of coarse linen, embroidered
| in blue and incrusted with guipure. Tn
little pointed Louis XIV. corsages, will
short sleeves, are la mode, and one o
the biggest houses here has introduces
panniers. But these, think, will Onl.
be worn by the ultra-fashionables, a
they are not suited to many figures
though they can be made very effectiv
in accentuating the waistline. Indeed
the present-day panniers are more lik
soft draperies which do not conceal tn
beauty of the outlines.
Hats are more than ever exaggerated
in size-they are either very small O.
| immense-and as to shape, one nigh
very easily mistake the back for tn
front. The most fashionable trimming
is straw, of which flowers, ribbons, etc.
are made, and the effect is quite wonder
full. Needless to say it is most durable
Short, uncurled ostrich feathers ar
also much used, and have certain
style. No crowns are to be seen. Th
small flower hats or toques are wOrI
with street costumes, but the larg'
picture-hats never seem to lose favor fO
evening wear. Some cling even to tn
GainSbOrough hats with strings, which
look we'll with decollete gowns.
An exquisite Trianon hat was in blu
horsehair dented in front and trimmed
with tiny pompon roses which formed
garland around an imperceptible crown
In lingerie, simplicity is the note, bu
the expense lies in the quality of th'
linen and the value of the lace. Th'
Empire style is in favor for the moment
Large collars crumple so soon that the.
are not practical. Underskirts of al
kinds are most deliberately trimmed.
Blouses have not left US yet, and Ger
tainly there is nothing more practica
and convenient, as skirts seem to last 81
much longer than bodices. The fin
linen ones, wonderfully embroidered
with lace and insertion laid in artisticall!
as the French know how to do, are mucl
worn by those who can afford them, bu
they are a costly luxury, varying il
price from twenty to fifty dollars apiece
so do not come within the reach of al
purses, a thing which deeply regret