Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-12-09
PHILIPPINE ROMANCE
Picturesque Ruins In and
About Manila.
RELICS OF AN EMPIRE
NATIVES SHOW LITTLE INTEREST
IN THEIR HISTORY.
The Old Walled City Hermitage Of
Our Lady Of the Guide-Ancfent
Guadalupe Monastery.
RELICS OF AN EMPIRE
From Manila Cablenews.

The globe trotter VINO Spenus TWO Gays
doing Manila has no idea that he treads
on the bones of vanished empire. Ma
Mia has had exceptional ruin-making
agencies, and the terrified natives regard
the crumbling heaps as grewsome remind
ers of the work of the dreadful earthquake
Few of the modern strangers here have
given thought to these monuments, and
many have left the islands never suspect
Ing that they had been within a stones
throw of spots rich in reverie and romance.
What we dwelers in the islands need Is
some interpreter some one of a thousand
with the soul rof an artist. to put these
things ON canvas so that we may cease to
pass them blindly, and If need be. make
pilgrimages to their fallen shrines. But
the American rarely sees the beautiful
about him till he is shown, and the FIJI
Pine is all unconscious there is anything to
show. In Manila and Malabon and Quad
aiupe are spots rich in that favor of ro-
mantle interest that stirs the soul of the
artist & ~
Many of the most Interesting of these
ruins have entirely disappeared AS late
as 1901 there stood in the Walled City near
the corner of Gales Palaeio and Victoria
part of the facade of the Old Jesuit
church, the most magnificent In its day
of all the churches of the islands. Before
the earthquake of 1863 destroyed It. this
was masterpiece of colossal proportions.
and was famed throughout the east for the
beautiful embroidery-like carving OF It's
stonework. It's cost was 15o 600 pesos but
earthquakes are no respecters of churches
and all that is left of the old temple are
the two small mounds of tile and cement
upon which are mounted two old cannon
of primitive design. They are passed every
day by hundreds unnoticed-the only links
left to connect us with mighty past
When the English beseged Manila there
stood In Ermita a beautiful church called
the Hermitage of Our Lady of the Guide
which gave name to the modern Ermita
According to tradition, this was the site
of the first Catholic chapel erected in the
islands, and 1t contained an image Of the
virgin said to have been found by a soldier
OF Legaspi in palm grove at a. place
called Pandan.
Fortified the Churches.
AT the time of this invasion two large
churches stood within few hundred yards
Of the south wall of the city Their obvi-
Gus danger to the city was the means of
the victory Of the English invaders, who
seized and fortified the churches and from
their strong walls planted cannon which
pounded breach in the city wall The
churches were destroyed and never allowed
TO De rebuilt, for obvious reasons. No trace
of them remains today.
In the early days OF American occupation
the ruins Of the old hospital stood about
where the tennis courts on Camp Wallace
now are. but no stone is now left to mark
the spot The present Malate Church has
been restored till 1t Is Of little interest
The old tile roof. the hole in the west
gable made by American shot, and the
walls with shrubs and trees growing in
their crevices made building worth going
to see. but now 1t Is all paint and CORFU
gated iron.
On calle Solano in the walled city oppo-
site the Franciscan Church. stands a ruin
that Is interesting for it's fine walls and
perfect arches. The interior is used as a
living place by natives who have construct
ed gypsy corners with scraps of tin and
the eternal iron till they resemble oriental
cliff dwellers. The walls OF cement and tile
are apparently as strong as ever.
At Caloocan stands church partly pre-
served that presents an imposing appear
ance from the east. Its transepts and
apse are circular in form and built of good
stone, well laid. Unless one is willing to
be rudely awakened from the pleasing I'm
preston of the first sight from the rail-
road, he had better not draw closer. The
apse Is used as pig pen and the sanitary
inspector has not had time to call lately
The nave Is still used as church, but is
in woefully dirty and neglected condition.
The church at Malabon presents an i'm
posing appearance from the 'front.' the great
Grecian pillars Of the facade being well ex-
ecuted. The church back Of this modern
front is in absurd relation to the mod
ern part. however. The interior is most in
teresting. From the door to the altar Is
quite 200 feet and the total width is 80
feet. The great nave Is beautiful in its
massive proportions and simple design.
The convent and east aisle were burned In
insurgent days, out Of hatred. It Is said,
for the Spanish friar, who was very un-
popular. To this day. none but Filipino
priest dares enter the church
While the old stairway stands, the gal
lery, is out Of repair. The bare convent
walls extend along the church, as II they
would not desert their temple in its day
Of adversely and decay.
Relic of Friar Rule.
Across the river from Malabon, In the
barrio of Navotas, stands an interesting
relic of the days when the friar ruled the
land A retreat was maintained In fine
two-story stone building facing the bay
and commanding one of the finest views In
the country. broad stone quay still
skirts the bay. and here the resting padres
western glories. The walls still stand IN
tact and SO strong are they that they
might serve for new building with 1T
tie repair.
The church at San Pedro Macati Is a
familiar mark to any one who has driven
to Fort William Mckinley. The tower
stands apart from the church and con-
tains the bells. The church and ruins Of
the convent are grouped on q low hill and
In front Of the church door 10 the old bury
Ing ground. In the rear Ia garden where
vegetables are raised ana an fmpromptu
road meanders down to the village by the
river. The walls OF the old convent are
One examples Of the construction Of those
who built to last, and the arches are IN
good condition.
II any one word could describe the pres
ent atmosphere OF the place It would DO
some synonym OF peace. Some elegy might
we'll be written in this country church
yard and under the shadow of this silent
sentinel tower. But there are men In Ma
Mia today who think Of very different
things when they remember the church
at San Pedro Macati. Then the place was
filed with insurgents and the slopin1 hill
was the death couch OF American SOL
diers who fought that peace might pro-
vail. San Pedro Macad has her record Of
blood and If her clustered arches are roof
less today there Is reason, for here wes
the scene of some OF the most persistent
and determined attacks Of the entire war
of the tnsurrectiou. the enemy concentrat-
ing their strongest forces at this point.
Guadalupe Monastery.
The queen OF all the ruins and the capital
of all the broken cities OF the past II the
old monastery of Guadalupe. Situated on q
hill above the river. thu site commands q
wide view In all directions, and ID thorough
ly typical Of the retreats chosen by the
builders of the famous European uionas-
teries. II the visitor b world-weary and
seeks q lodge In some quiet wilderness he
can ind It at duadaiupe.