davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Waterbury evening Democrat., 1905-02-04
CHAIR OF ROMAN LAW.

New HzveR. Feb 4.-ChsrIes r. Sherman D-C-I-- of West Springfield. Mass. a graduate of the Yale class of 1sssi has been appointed to the chair of Roman law in the Yale Law school to succesd the late Prof Albert S. -Al
Waterbury evening Democrat., 1905-02-04
NITRO GLYCERINE EXPLODED

Hartford City. Ind. Feb 4-It is believed that several persons have been killed by the explosion of hun dreIs of quarts of nitro giycerine to- [-s in the Empire Torpedo company's s magazine. fifteen miles from here. Ire concusson was felt fifty miles ~~ay.
Waterbury evening Democrat., 1905-02-04
IN STATE OF PANIC.

{ Warsaw. Russian Poland. Feb A. | Reports from Czestochowa. Russian
 Poland. say that city is in state of
 panic. The inhabitants are barricaling ltfe-r doors and windows in conse
 auence of the attitude Of the strikers.
Waterbury evening Democrat., 1905-02-04
FINANCIAL AND COMMERCIAL.
Closing Stock Quotations.

] Money on call easy at per cent: prime mercantile paper. 3izT4A per cent; ex-
 | changes, s32i 4J2 655; balances, SIS. .913. .106. l Closing Dricps.
Waterbury evening Democrat., 1905-02-04
WEATHER FORECAST.
vsry Unusual fcn iit;ons Prevailing
 In Al, Parts of Country.

Forecast for Connecticut: Fair. con t:nred cold tonight and Sunday; light tc fresh northwesterly winds.
Waterbury evening Democrat., 1905-02-04
FROM SEVERAL POINTS.

Tokio, Feb Al p. m.-Manchurian headquarters telegraphing under date of February 5. says: "On Thursday February 2 the enemy's artillery bombarGed from several points our right wing. Otherwise the situation is unchanged. In the direction of our center at 12:30 Friday morning Feb ruary B one company of tue enemy's infantry attacked our Outnosts from the Mukden road. and later another section was attacked in the neighbor- hood of Manchiayuantzu. Both at Jacks were repulsed.
 .'In the direction of our left the enemy has been attacking in the neghhorhood of Liuliaokou since the morning of February ?. Their fore which consisted of the first and fifth rife brigades was driven back towar ! rbor~.,n TLe o-,~-.---'- '~esc- timated at seven hundred. We wit messed the removal UI U.e.' til. ,c ..~-. dred.
 "The Russi"n dead aI-e1dr i"te"re after .he battle of Hoikont"i. in the nei~thcrhocd of Sumpao alone num- Der nine hundre1.'
Waterbury evening Democrat., 1905-02-04
DENIED AT FOREIGN OFFICE.

London. Feb 4.-The foreign offi"e declares thnre is no foundation for the report published in New York that con fereuces n"ve taken place at Rerli' tc'ween Chancellor vOn Bnelow and tIe British ambassador. Sir Frank I.ascel,es. with the object of bringing about rea"e between Rrss'a and Japan The officials here know nothing of any proposal from either Germany. Greet Britain or elsewhere suggesting an ef- foIi. joint or otherwise. to stop the war,
Waterbury evening Democrat., 1905-02-04
WORST IN YEARS.

W IAN T Los AnSeles, Cal, leo +.-Southern CaiiIorli.d Is eXperlenclns It's greatest roIAsloI n Ill years.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

shade of yellow, which might be termed
golden cream, and such a hat Is trimmed
with feathers shading from pure white to
the yellow of the straw
Lingerie effects in silk and chiffon are
worn again this summer. and are, perhaps,
the easiest form of homemade. hat.
shepherdess frame should be covered with
shirred chiffon the shade of the rufffing to
be used the hat. Over this is fastened
row after row of finely accordion pleated
chiffon, or silk as soft liberty.
A hat which a young girl recently made
for herself this line is built from car
dinaI-red maline with a fiat bow of yeivet
ribbon on the left side near the front. FROM
this n feather shading from white 10 the
richest cardinal ran diagonally across the
hat over the hair. AS she had the feather
and the cardinal ribbon left from her VIII
ter treasure box, she had only the expense
of the 15-cent frame, which she covered
with a good quality of tarletan and her
accordion pleatng. She cut and hemmed
the latter herself, and had it pleated at
shop. She will wear the hat with gown
of dimity in the same shade, and also WIFI
a black and white check silk piped WIN
red
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23
Indifferent Mothers.
From the Boston Globe

From the Boston Globe.
Extreme wealth and extreme poverty
alike weaken the responsibility of parents"
was a very true remark of Mrs. Silas p.
Leveridge at the Society for Political Study
in New York the other night. The rich pay
for others to take care of their children,
and the poor let their children look after
themselves. In either case the same condi-
lions are developed, and the desire to keep
the home together is destroyed. Modern
tendencies in the appointments of the pub
because doctors are appointed to keep the
children well and nurses to keep them
clean.
The result is that the school becomes
more and more nursery, SO that many
mothers are able to shift all responsibility
for the children when the school doors
close upon them, and they are left to the
care of the public school and the policeman
in the block, the mother thus largely losing
her personal interest in their welfare OF
course, there is a beneficial side to the ex-
tended care which the modern school now
gives to children in the way of providing
baths and in looking out for their health
generally. But it cannot be denied that in
some instances it encourages the mother to
leave what used to be deemed her persona |
responsibilities to others, and encoura ges
children to think less of their homes In
different mothers should not become too nu
merouS.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23
(,dE6' 1s&&A8dn@5 Y6@&zd J

smiling with bright capacity written all
over her comedy person.
The latter has learned essential fact
that confidence is born of good clothes; ana
therefore, with genuine brain power, rea-
sons the necessity of making the most of
all her good points.
BY doing this she engenders the feeling
that her dress adds to her appearance, she
knows that il is finished in every detail,
and, thus assured, her business assumes
first Importance, and success is gained by
the forgetfuness of self
The woman orator, the actress, the
singer the musician all understand the
junct to their personality. And this per-
sonality is to them of as paramount impor-
tance as their own individual gifts.
Then, again, take the majority of the
well-known women of political, literary,
social and philanthropic Importance. There
is no doubt whatever OF their mental pow
ers, and none as to their exquisite taste in
personal dress.
The same rule may be applied to a thou
sand other more or less prominent people
we meet in everyday life.
A woman's influence, too, for good may
be boundless by happy combination of
intellectual strength, sympathy and taste
fui dress.
A picture rich in golden tints and beauty
of design offers more pleasure to the eye
than one less brilliant and less perfect in
technique, which reveals above all else its
limitations
The beautiful blending of colors, either
in dress or in painting, exhibits the touch
of a refined mind, and the softening of
gar.Sh effects reveals capable intelligence,
which has grasped the important fact that
"the essence of all science lies in the phi
losophy of clothes"
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23
IN STRAIGHT LIN Els
HINTS AND DON'TS FOR WOMEN
INCLINED TO sToUTNEss.
From the London Express.

From the London Express.
The late NJ Worth, the great French
dressmaker, always insisted on long ana
flowing lines for his stout clients and
quite regardless of prevailing fashions, ap-
solutely refused to trim their gowns with
horizontal effects.
The stout woman, therefore, will be wise
If she accepts as cardinal points in the
study of her wardrobe these two essentials
won from a worldwide experience.
1t is wonderful, too what straight lines
will do for a stout figure, while curves
merely accentuate it's embonpoint and be-
come unsightly instead of beautiful.
All gowns should be made of some SOFT
material that can be put on very full over
a closely fitted lining of silk. rms inning
clings to the figure and adds nothing TO ts
bulk; while the voluminous skirt draped
upon it is too soft to take up space over
the hips, and yet is full enough 10 give
broad sweeping lines to the bottom
MANY stout women are appalled, at the
suggestion of full skirt But lney WIZ
try on a skirt that lies snugly ROUND the
waist and hips and flares well out from
the hins down, they will see how slender
the waist will appear in contrast TO the 1uli
effect of the SKIRT SOW,
The fulness should appear to spring from
tho belt and the outline of the hips should
never be accumulated by having the skirt
atted to them. The fitted yoke, with a
Gagged or fitted skirt springing from the
Yoke is also an error Of judgment. There
is no fashion worse suited to the stout
woman as such skirt cuts the inquire, ana
gives a short and dumpy appearance.
The top of the skirt should have the
fitness laid in pleats or tucks, just as one
nIeases. OF course, the extensively gagged
ssLirts should never be worn except by very
fall women, and even by them with discre-
ton.
should be taken. Long panels sometimes
appear to reduce the size of the figure, but
the horizontal trimmings, whether put on
in wavy lines or scallops, always reduce
the height and appear to Increase the
breadth of the woman who wears them.
Trimming on the hem gives breadth to
the bottom of the skirt and seems to give
a becoming length to the wearer.
The stout woman who dresses to her
figure rather than to fashionable models
is always more smartly gowned than she
who wears what is fashionable In itself
rather than what is suitable.
A list of don'ts formulated by modfste
who has made the stout figure an especial
study may be useful guide to the woman
who is inclined to embonpoint.
Don't use frills of any kind on a gown.
Use fiat trimmings.
Don't wear wide belts.
Don't trim skirt except at the bottom.
Don't wear sleeve that is full below the
elbow.
Won't wear an eton coat. Always have
the coat-line extend as far below the waist
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23
SOME ODD TRIPLES.
Freak Fancies in Dress Parade in
Event of Fair Weather.

Given fair weather and Dame Fashion
will startle staid pedestrians with some OF
the eccentrcities displayed on the Easter
parade. Here are some of the small things
sported by women.
| Buckles and cabuchons for hats in Indian
bead work, showing pale pink flowers on
blue ground, or vice versa, with dash or
gold. These vary in size from diameter
of two inches to length of four or five
Prayer books bound in velvet or MORE
silk to match the coloring of any of the
spring fabrics.
White gIace kid belts painted in bow
knots and garlands, all in pastel tnts.
Crosses ten inches long to hang from
slender gold chains in oolors to match the
frocks; amethyst with gray and lavender
dresses, topaz with brown, emeralds anc
cats eyes with green.
Tortoise shell combs measuring eight
inches across which almost overshadow
the tiny floral toques worn above them.
With the popular check gowns, wampum
chains finished with an elephants tooth
for pendant.
For sixteen-inch waist a peculiar me-
talic belt built from four long, wide buc-
kles of old gold set with E1atrlX turquoise,
the size of a 50-cent piece.
A black and white check parasol, finished
with a puff of pompadour ribbon, in tur-
quoise blue with pink roses and black
border.
A vanity box for her chatelaine one side
of which is q large natural mother-of-pearl
shell in old rose set in old-gold fligree.
A bunch of violets the size of an Easter
toque, with a downy yellow chick nesting
in the center of them.
A blue-green straw hat in pointed boat
shape, with a peacock head, from which
extend natural peacock feathers, which
encircle the brim and fall down at the
back to the left shoulder.
Odd things worn by men are:
Silk and wool vests in black and white
checks, bound with wide silk braid in black,
and fastened with large crystal buttons.
Brown and white check CATERS with but
tons To match
Red and tan silk bandana handkeTchiefs,
showing immense polka dots.
Mixed gray trousers with black stripes
half an inch wide. and above this tie of
American beauty red.
Straight, heavy walking stick, finished
with an immense silver knob.
Grosgrain neck scarf, showing inch
stripes of blue, green, yellow and red, in
deep tones
Bead watch ribbons of black, interviewer
with fieur-de-lis in gold beads.
Boutonniere of light green carnations, tied
with bow and long streamers of white satin
ribbon.
Light tan box-shaped derby, bound with
goden-brown grosgrain ribbon and hat
band of the same color.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

or at least to offer some refreshing contrast
and match her stock or tie. In many of
these coIored belts two or three straps of
the same leather meet, both in back and
front and fasten with small colonial gilt
buckles. Others are decorated artisticaiiy
Particularly pretty is tan suede belt paint
ed to show small peacock feathers in nat
ural coloringS scattered in a circle around
the leather. Another tan belt is of glace
pearls and cut steel, and finished with a
long, pointed, cut-stel buckle. A dark blue
belt in glace kid is decorated with Egyptian
heads in oriental colorings, with a brilliant
green predomnating
White belts and belts in very delicate
coloringS will be used more than ever dur
ing the coming summer. A girdle-shaped
belt in white glace kid has the joining of
the leather at the back concealed by six
small buttons, covered with white kid An
eight-inch oval leather-covered buckle fas-
tens the ten-inch strip of kid in the front
Wide, straight strips of suede or glace kid
show clusters of hand-painted forget-me-
notS or yiolets, and are occasionally bound
on either edge with narrow strip of blue
or violet leather. Most exquisite is wide
belt of pale pink suede, painted around the
edges with slender sprays of conventional
lied tulips in Nile green. A long colonial
buckle in mother-of-pearl collects its am
pie folds at the front of the bodice
Mother-of-pearl clasps are also worn with
that much-abused accessory, the black belt
band of the leather finished at the ends
with a gathering of the kid, over which
straps of kid meet in small white buckles.
Extremely smart is black patent kid
belt ten inches wide. tapering at the ends
into gilt clasp an inch and half wide.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

The most fascinating lines prevail in these;
and there is simply end to the clever
conceits that are embodied in them The
dra ped bolero bodice Is a great favorite,
there being usually vest of some con-
trasting color; and the bolero part is man
aged with shrred seams at the center back
and the sides. and then the fullness is drawn
toward the center front and knotted or
buckled or somehow fastened plumb in the
center.
Frivolous looking little basques are often
added, and in many instances these are
prolonged into positions at the back, some
of them extending as far as the knee, and
lined with some sheer silk of either a
matching or contrasting tint. The sleeves
to these little garments are of half length
and the clever dresser uses them either with
or without a lingerie blouse beneath These
little blouses are sheer and so iiimy that
they take up no room at all, and there is
not the slightest difference in the fit of the
coat bodice when they are worn or omitted
Almost all of the new bodices show a cut
out neck of some kind, and this is filled IN
with white usually separate sets of chernl-
settles accompanying each gown. The part
of the bodice around this decolletage is
much trimmed; and buttons, strappings
bows and buckles are all used to their
adjournment. The cienture is similarly trim
med and often the outstanding and 1ar-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23
LEATHER GIRDLES
Hold Their Own Against silken
Rivals

In spite of the inroads which the sllken
girdle has made on miladfs affections, she
still cling%to the leather belt. 1t gives the
trim, tailored look her men friends in par
ticular admire so much. While many of the
models for summer are gathered and shaped
and boned like silken girdles, the very
straight. Their suppleness lends itself
each time to the curves of the waist line
AS a consequence suede belts are highest
favor.
The vivid colorings of last year have
given place to softer pastel shades, which
blend more effectively with the unlimited
variety of checked suitings. Self-tone
leather is used to cover many of the buck
les Gilt and silver buckles in tapering
colonial shape or in large oval form also
give a stunning finish to the new leather
BELTS The use of jeweled clasps is confined
to silk belts, except where the leather is
studded with beads or imitation precious
stones
Among all the foreign and American nov
elites in colored belts the one which prom
Uses to be most popular is a combination of
silk and leather In contrasting shades. A
piece of moire three inches in width is
bound on either side with strip of leather
half an inch wide and is finished with an
oval buckle. gilt or leather-covered. Black
or white leather is usually employed for the
binding of any color MORE A wide strip of
pliable kid or suede in contrasting color
may take the place of the silk.
But the summer girl of 1905 will count this
silk and leather belt as only one of col
lection She has a leather belt to match
the skirt Of every one OF her daytime frocks.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

The Easter season has always marked an
epoch in fashions; and this year 1t would
seem as though the most radical of de-
partures in the fashion line had been post
poned until Easter. that their ARRIVAL
might be the more observed and spectacular
Dame Fashion announces that the Key
note of the newer styles, just like the key
note of good breeding, is to be simplicity;
and having so announced the tickle lady
doubtless has huge laugh in her big sleeve
for the simplicity that is modish at the
present moment is anything but simple or
inexpensive. Far from it. The simplicity
which Dame Fashion orders and Madame
La Mode accepts is merely simplicity of
outline, and to bring that same simplicity
into the ranks OF fashion trimmings of all
sorts and characters, laces, ribbons, en-
broideries and handwork galore, are all
called upon. The woman who would be in
the mode this year must expect to open her
purse-strings wider than ever before for
her Easter gown. Not only must she order
a goodly quantity of material. a similar
quantity of trimmings, but she must expect
that her dreSsmaker will add some 80 per
cent to the bill for the handwOrk that will
be necessary to secure just the right effect.
La mode sOuple stl reigns supreme in
Paris; and all of the favored materials are
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23
BRAINS AND DRESS
THEORY THAT GOOD CLOTHES ARE
ESSENTIAL TO SUCCESS.
From the London Express.

From the London Express
1.-THE well-dressed woman is always wo-
man of keen intelligence and brain power
argued well-known society leader at a
popular womans club recently. mo sense
less doll" she continued, knows how to
dress She may don gaudy raiment, spend
a fortune on a gown so utterly inappropri-
ate to the occasion that one can only feel
ar intense pity for her; but no one would
ever dream of laying the burden of her sin
against good form and good taste at the
door of the whole of her sex.
The woman who dresses well, in con-
formity with her age. her work and her
position in society, choosing neither ex-
IRENE OF the prevailing modes, but striking
a happy medium, is the woman who has
brains and uses them to make a good Sc
lection from the fashions of the day
And there is no doubt of the truth of this
statement for il is the well-groomed, suit
ably gowned woman who attains success,
whether in business or social life.
The age OF the blue stocking has passed,
and nowadays the woman who dresses I'M
becomingly through choice and not for the
sake of economy Is regarded as either men
tally weak or as seeking some eccentric
form of self-advertisement, which is but
another phase of objectionable vanity.
In the commercial world the dowdy, in
significant woman, even If she has mental
ability IL at discount when compared
with the well-dressed woman, confident and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23
Starch.
From the Brooklyn Eagle.

From TIE brooklyn Eagle
A few thousand women, who have nothing
else to do, are discussing George Bernard
Shaw's remarks about their costumes. He
hates it. He says they are afraid of color
and prone to starch. He would have them
dress like Rosalnd, and wear tights on
their-oh. horror!-wear tights on-good gra-
ciousi-wear tights on-why, there aren't
any.-well, wear tights. AS for starch he
will not abide it. He call sit "nawsty white
mud" The women retaliate by declaring
that 1t is no longer good form for women to
wear hard-boled collars and cuffs and
shirts-beg pardon shirt Wasts-and that
the practice is encouraged only among men.
Encouraged? Come, we like that! Who en-
courages US to wear starch, If not the wo-
men? Who is it that washes handker-
chiefs and sends them back to us wiry with
starch, if it isn't a woman? What? Who
is it that puts napkins beside our plate that
are so stiff with this same starch that we
cut our lips on them when we try to wipe
the soup out of our whiskers? Did men
ever do that? No-Women. Who is it that
launders our night gowns so that we
rattle and creak to be heard in the cellar?
Women, to be sure. Who is it that puts
our charlotte russo, in our. curtains in our
manners? Women.
And what's the use? We don't like it.
We see no sanitary purpose in it. Ger
tainly 1t isn't art AS women have eman-
cipated themselves from men. let men take
courage and emancipate themselves from
starch. The thought of liberty thrills be-
meath the bosom of many boiler plate
shirt, yet at the awful self-question, What
would she say if she me in comfort
able clothes? the victim shudders, weeps
miserably, and goes his way hopeless to the
shop, where he meets a hundred other men,
Starched tC the ears and suffering horribly,
yet used to it that they don't remember
half the time whether they are or not.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-23

line possible.
Don't wear a tight-fitting coat If very
stout.
Don't wear bow ties. Wear something
small and narrow if tie is required.
Don't wear fluffy things round the meek.
Let the neck-finishing be as fiat as possible
Don't wear hgh-cut decolletage. Have
the low bodice cut to an extremity or
decollete, and build up the top with patchy
effects to the required height.
The Louis XVI coat is becoming style
to the stout woman, because 1t is long IN
its lines, fitted in the back, not necessarily
fitted in front, and has wide skirts as a
contrast to the slenderness of it's waist
line.
In the first figure is shown a coat of this
kind made of black velvet, with a broad,
fiat design of black jet, picked out with
small pulled pieces of dull satin down the
front and on the cuffs.
A smart afternoon gown is also SHOWN
for the stout woman; it is made with
pleated skirt having a narrow front OF
very heavy lace, the pleats on each side the
front turning over on the lace.
The bodice is made with pleats at the
shoulder which fit in at the waist. me
front peats turn forward upon panel OF
wide lace. which narrows at the wa1st-lne
and appears a continuation of the skirt
panel.