Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-10-08

the velvet being perfectly smooth. and a
cluster of two very full, moderately long
green ostrich. piumes started from the left
side near the middle and tumbied off the
side and back. A fold of velvet went around
the crown and another through a greenish
bronze buckle covered the bases of the
feathers.
Mrs. w. X. Vanderbilt, jr.. has light
tan-colored hat trimmed with ribbons. hav-
ing a plentiful supply of gold thread rum
ming through H-tinsel ribbon. in fact The
hat rolls at both sides. but more at the
left. where several quilts are thrust through
a twist of the ribbon These quilts lie fiat
to the rolled brim, rise high at the back
and run down at the front. The hat pro-
5ects over the brow, over which IT is tilted.
The hat also runs out and up bit in the
brlm in the back, but under this rising
brim masses of short loops of the golden
ribbon are fastened. A band of 1t Is also
wound about the moderately high crown.
X
One of Mrs. Clarence Mackays autumn
hats is very large one of black crinoline.
trimmed with black tulle. and having
masses of black ostrich tips at the right
side, from the center of which rises bird
of paradise aigrette. Black ostrich piunes
also fall over the back, which goes but a
considerable distance from the head, with
tulle and tips underneath.
x
A handsome toilet for calling, and which
will be seen at several of the coming-out
teas for debutantes in November, is of pale
gray chiffon. cloth and broadcloth of the
same shade decorated with embroidery and
creamy lace.
The trailing foundation is of broadcloth.
Six inches from its lower edge is a two-inch
bias band of the cloth. and eight inches
above it is a second, half inch narrower,
while between the two and overlapped by
the cloth bands is fiat puff of chiffon
CLOTH. just touching the top band comes
the tunic or upper skirt of the sheer cllif-
fon cloth. This is laid in narrow box plaits
at the top, these graduating from an inch
in width at the top to an inch and half
where they terminate. These plaitS are
stitched in, but the stitching stops some nj
teen inches from the lower edge in front
and some eighteen inches behind, and from
it's termination the cloth falls in full folds.
A garland of embroidery done in shaded
gray silk, chenille and crystal beads is
around this tunic some two inches from Its
edge.
There is deep, pointed girdle of chiffon
velvet of the same hue as the cloth, and
above this the chiffon cloth bodice is gath
cred the top being laid in box plats stitch
ed down some two inches below the shall
low, round yoke of gray chiffon, the top OF
which is cut in a Dutch neck This yoke
has insertions of flowers in heavy ecru lace
are large puffs of the chiffon-not chiffon
eloth-over lavender silk, and seven-inch
ruff1es of heavy ecru lace droop over double
ruff1es of gray chiffon, having box ruch-
ing of lavender tuHe at the edge.
There Is little coat of chiffon broadcloth
to be worn with this costume. 1t is really
a loose saeque, the top of which Is formed
of a Deep square yoke of heavy ecru lace
over broadcloth, and this has a narrow,
turned-over collar of Lavender chiffon vel
vet and large rhinestone and amethyst
cabochon closes it.
Just below this yoke there is an eight
inch fiat putting of gray chiffon over
proadcloth, and then the entire lower part
of the jacket is formed of the heavy lace
set on over broadcloth and projecting an
inch or so below the lower edges.
The coat fronts part little, and the
whole body comes just below the hip line.
The sleeves are quite wide at the elbows,
lower third is formed of a narrow, fiat
puff of chiffon. followed by deep founces
OF the ecru lace over double f1ounces
of chiffon.
velvet. with a crown of lighter felt. Is
trimmed with encircling wreaths of shaded
gray ostrich plumes that fail over the
back.
An odd gown OF Chartered chiffon broad
cloth for young girl has the double skirt
or tunic effect. The effect is produced by
setting a twelve-inch fiounce of the cloth
simply hemmed on to the red silk founda-
ton and having the skirt proper droop
over its top. This tunic is gathered slight
ly at the waist line, more in the back than
elsewhere, and e.ght inches from its hem
there are three one-inch tucks an inch
apart Across the tunic in the front at
the knee line there is an applique of Irish
lace, and at the sides it curves up some
eight inches to the center back.
The girdle is q narrow-Shaped one or folds
of the CLOTH and the bodice is a surplice
in the front, but quite fiat. and almost
plain in the back band of the Irish
lace three inches wide is set in the back
just above the belt, and going around un-
der the arms, curves up In front OF them
following the arms eye, and terminating
in the shoulder seam A guimpe and stock
of the Irish lace is to be worn with this,
and strappings of the cloth an inch wide
and stitched six times extend the length
of the shoulder seams, going over the end
of the Irish lace.
The sleeves are three scant puffs of the
cloth. In the upper puffs bit of the Irish
lace two inches wide runs from the Shout
ders to the bottom of the puffs. The mid
die puffs are plain, and each of these Is
the widest Of the three forming each sleeve.
The lowest puff is not over an inch and a
half wide, and under two-inch band of
the lace over cloth; from under this band
fall two very full ruff1es of some simple
white lace.
simple little house dress. and one easily
copied, is of pale tan wolfe having dots an
inch long and four inches apart on its sur
face. The bodice is cut in a modified sur
plice, as 1t closes straight down the front
under box-plaited ruching of inch-wide
satin ribbon the color of the dots. The
neck is cut out round at the back and
but outlines open in front, which is
filed In with a guimpe of yellow lace with
a Dutch neck. The box-plaited ribbon go,
ing up the front extends around the entire
neck of the bodice In the back the mate
rial is gathered a bit at the neck line and
more at the waist line, where the gathers
are drawn in at the center, and the whole,
of course, is set over a tight-fitting lin
irg. In the front also the tops are slightly
gathered at the shoulder line and at the
bottom the fullness is drawn toward the
center. The girdle is a shaped one about an
inch and half wide and is formed of sew
eral widths of the satin ribbons plated on
to foundation that closes in the front
with a giided buckle.
The skirt has its fullness around the top |
i'm tiny tlIrks half an inch anart thase