Crittenden press. [volume] (Marion, Ky.) 1879-1907, 1905-11-02
NUMBER 22.

q metal fork which form part of fbo
apparatus, the diamond is held again al
the revolving disc, and as sometimas
: a stone less than an eighth of an inch
In diameter has 100 facets, great nice
, " on the part Of the workman is re-
CURED, and the position of the dia-
mona is changed more than 100 times
. before the requisite lustre and finish
are secured. The polisher works al
Ways win magnifyfng glass, and
makes from $500 to $500 a day.
Three Hundred Diamonds In Necklace
In the 100000 necklace mentioned
there were 300 diamonds. ALLOWING
three days brutage trough shapinoe
ana three months polishing on each.
the sum expended for these two items
alone amounts to $11070O
After the stones arrived at the feur.
eller's, they had, of course, to be
mounted. To this end the big shops :
or Paris employ a staff of designers.
goldsmlths, silversmiths, settlers and
polishers. Usually, the designers are
men who have come into the shop In n
less important capacity, shown talent.
been sent by the firm to an art school
and put through course of instruc-
tlon. According to his ability. de-
slgner earns from $50 to $160 a month.
de may work for months without pro-
ducing a single sketch that goes to the
studios, then in a week he will turn
out TWO or three that meet the diff
cult taste or the employer. Designs
are done in water colors.
In Paris, the real jeweller is not the
owner or the shop, but the craftsman
who fashions the gold or platinum in
TO the skeleton that holds the precious
stones. In America he is called a
gold or silversmith. Each separate
clasp or gem-holder, goes first to the
polisher. Then TO ieweller who
assemblies, or joins together, the entire
frame for the necklace. tiara. or
whatever the design may call for. and
again to the polisher.
The setter. as his name indicates.
fastens or sets the diamonds into the
framework, and sends It on a last visit
to the polisher.
POIlshers are Women.
The polishers are usually women.
AS a rule they work in groups of five
or six under patroness, who keeps
a little apartment In O narrow street
Of Montmartre, Gallon, Mail, or som0
other cheap and crowded quarter OF
Paris. With good luck the patroness
mdkes from Sl,OOO TO S1,2OO year.
The polishers are taken as apprentices
at IA years Of age. At 16 they NAV
get forty to sixty cents a day, and al
Is dollar to a dollar twenty.
The labor Of all these craftsmen ON
the necklace in mind amounted to
about $500, which added to $1,000
Tor preparing the diamonds, and
deducted from the selling price OF
100000 left only $4,000 to cover cost
)f rough stones incidental expense OF
ETC., could not have left
my phenomenal profit for the mine
owner who dug and delivered them ia
ne cutter. Such necklace is said To
.urnish work enough to support 400
amlnes Tor year. OF course, this
Ices not take into consideration the
workers In the mines, nor the heavy
'aH OF clerks and officials necessarv
o carry on the big diamond PRODUCING
leIds. The business Of finishing the
'aw diamond for the final purchaser
'Hers the best paid labor to be found
n europe. Owing TO the duty on emf
'ems brought into this country. Amer
can dealers are building up a similar
INDUSTRY In the United States. and A
5 rational to suppose that the crafts.
hen employed In this country will
ecelve even still higher wages thar
nose paid abroad.