Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09

LFRlL y, lSU0-HAhI 4.
London taiiors are beginning to put a
small outside breast pocket on the IeIt-
hand forepart Of a dress coat--not a dinner
Jacket, be It understood land, indeed, the
dinner jacket Is showing signs OF obsoles-
cence), but on a tailed dress coat This
would be very remarkable innovation, and
II the report had come from q less inn
peccable critic I should have hesitated to
believe it. For the distinctive tendency Of
all recent fashion has been to eliminate an
outside handkerchief pocket whenever pos
sible; and q dress coat is about the last
place in which / should have expected such
a pocket to make its reappearance. Even
on the authority I have quoted 1t would
be rash to conclude that this notion will
obtain general acceptance. L mention 1t as
report which cannot be ignored, though
to be taken with some reserve.
A New Waistcoat.
One highly displeasing day style which
has once or twice attracted my attention
lately among the racing crowd is the intro
duction of an entirely new thing in waist
coats. This was a flannel wafstcoat, made
of the same large patterned stuff which Is
so much employed for Tattersalls. 1t was
single-breasted, and very low in the neck,
made without collar, but the opening cut
very much on the slant, so that the amount
of shirt shown was not enormous; but the
most distressing feature of the outfit Is
that the shirt was constructed of material
actually matching the waistcoat The
effect, even when mftigated by a narrow
black four-in-hand cravat, shocked
critical eye; and as the suit was generany
completed by a black morning coat, worn
open, and dark trousers the incongruity
was with apparent intention rendered as
evident as it could well be rendered to the
observer
Jacket suits are made of smooth English
and lowland tweeds, and of worsteds, as
mentioned in previous letters; but there
is curious fancy in some quarters for
designs which recall the homespuns which
for year or two have necessarily been
great deal worn, on account of the failure
of Australian wool This however, is
transitory idea, and it does not rather
unfortunately extend to really fashionable
circles. Very often when one style has given
place to another there is noticeable SINH
lar tendency to try to keep $50 to say in
touch with the banished fashion, and to the
philosophical critic of clothing there is
nothing to be regretted in it. Fashion
ought not to jump about by cataclysmal
changes; on the contrary, it should develop
as gently as possible. l say this on prac-
Fashion isn't Cor should not be) for very
rich people alone. 1t is much better, both
for trade and taste, that an intelligent APP
probation of the subject should exist all
through the social scale. Now sudden and
complete changes tend the other way. To
a rich man 1t matters little that he must
abandon the wearing of suits that have not
been in use for more than very snort
time; but to the ordinary individual 1t
matters a good deal. The latter would be
a fool to discard garments that have cost
him well-earned money without getting
good value out of them. Consequently, as
this man is not liable to be a fool, and as
he shows good Judgment by Keeping IN
touch with fashion in proportion to his
means and not beyond them a violent
change would be ignored by him, to the
a. Of +ba standard
of dress in his community. where (as
generally happenS) transition develops
gradually the man of moderate means IS
enabled to keep in touch, and wear out his
stock of clothes without being at any time
made conspicuous and, therefore, uncom-
Portable. Moreover, even for the wealthy
man. a violent change is to be deprecated
There must be a period when the very
latest thing.S if it contrast severely with
the thing which has gone before 1t, VIII
make him very noticeable on some occa-
sions; and really Well-dressed man should
never be an object of vehement notice. Inc
mark of his costume should always be
that it seems exactly right, never that 1t is
conspicuous or notwithstanding. Sim
plicity is ever the truest taste in dress.
Bows.
Bows have for so many months-in fact,
for something like four or five years-been
so absolutely out of date that it would be
rash thing to predict their early reap
pearance And yet I believe that 1 see a
reaction coming along.
Come 1t slow or come 1t fast,
1t is but this that comes at last
TO parody ScotD. 1 do not pretend as yet
TO fix a date for the boom in bows. All
can say is that Gas the Irish politician said
of the rat), II smell it; l see 1t floating in
the air" and (unlike the gentleman referred
tor I have no wish to nip 1t in the bud"
The bow. when it does return, will be of
STYLE long forgotten. 1t will be Wldlsh, un-
lined and cut on the bias, with pointed,
omen ends, and rather loose barrel.
Fouard will be likely and an appropriate
material.
Hand-sewn gloves are one of the marks
of an extensively dressed man just now.
They are made as a rule of lightish brown,
or else dark dull yellow dogskin, and, OF
course, they are just the kind of thing to
he liked by the exclusive dresser, because
thew cannot very we'll be initiated in cheap
trade The stitching is bold, and, of course,
the gloves are very strong; being free from
the tendency to coming unseWn Whlch
sometimes marks the ordinary chain-stltch-
ed glove. They sell at about 81 PAIR ana
are really not dear at the price Here as
in the highest class of shirts and collars,
a little coarseness of workmanship, due 10
the use of hand instead of machine LABOR
is rather agreeable to the eye than the re-
verse. Anything which gives a certain IN.
dividuality to each article Is a marx ot
taste with many Thoughtful people. and II
roIst he admitted that these old world
Municipalities have distinct personal
charm.