New-York tribune., 1905-11-12
yNesU Form Of the Princess GosOf,.
Its Long Many Graceful Dapinss and
Addions-The Bex Hat

of the apron are pointed panels, with an oc-
casional touch of gold. The novel feature or tne
gown is the sleeve, which has no shoulder or
arm seam. This seamless effect over the shoul-
ders is having a marked success. 1t is, OF
course, IN olrect contrast 10 te ms, -"
shoulder effect that so many OF the modeis nass,
but there is for both styles now win
such a difference in line TO choose from the
princess model cannot become monotonous
There is an attempt among the miners to
Introduce small hats; that is round turbans and
tooues much smaller than any that have been
worn for some years. The small trcorne Is also
In favor. At the same time there is a lot OF
picturesque plume laden hats to suit faces and
coiffures not suited for so tiny a headdress
Moreover, the large hat is always a more dressy
adjunct to the toilette than the daintiest toQue
can be, and for that reason will always have Its
place. However, the dernier cri in the way Of
chapeau to go with an autumn walking suit
is a soft felt in the same color, draped to form
small toque or shaped after small Amazon
FORM trimmed with soft folds of velvet and
bunch Of soft aigrettes.
There are a great many white felts trimmed
with crowns of flow ars in the fashionable shades
of purple dahlia ana green. These are tipped
1lp with a huge cache peIgne and favor is about
equally divided between the saucer shape and
the high crown model If~the cache peigne is
OF flowers the fiat trimming ~ tI1a crown is
Of velvet. shaded. perhaps or the flowers are
used on the crown and loops and punches Of
velvet behind. For the moment, hats char
acterized by a certain simplicity yet it must be
remembered that it is still the mi-saison. and
there is time for considerable change before the
real winter season opens. Paris milliners man
age to change their models every few weeks. and
in this way one mode follows another rapidly.
Very smart tailored costumes are made of
plaid cloth, the plaid indefinite, the coors sub
dued. These need no trimming save stitch
ing, self-strappng and metal or cloth covered
buttons. The long, fitted coat is excellent
model for figured WOOL for it calls for no
trimming. Boleros now are rather fanciful and
are best in smooth faced cloth, with some
namentation
The knee long habit is surprisingly popular
when one considers how much it was worn
last winter and how important was the same
fashion in the thin summer fabrics. However
there is always an attempt to give 1t some
novel feature. A costume in dregs-of-w wine
cloth has long habit perfectly plain over the
bust and waist, but with cluster of side pleats
set in each hip and double cluster in the
back. These clusters are headed with a motif
done with stitched bands, piped with velvet In
the same color, with tiny velvet buttons set
on the bands. There is turnover collar of
velvet set on with tabs treated in the same way
and the motifs. much enlarged. used on the
bottom Of the skirt.
AS all the yellow shades are fashionable 1t
is not surprising to find khaki cloth among the
something like the khaki toile and makes smart
tailored suits Of the severe variety. Indeed
there are so many cashmeres and cloths plain
In color but fancy in regard to surface that the
More of them will undoubtedly be used a few
months hence when the novelties will begin to
be weeded out. Cloth is considered dresSy
material that calls for much trimming and is
more suitable for formal costumes than for mi
saison gowns.
Most OF the cloth costumes seen now are
trimmed IN various shades Of the same color
with only shade used of several mate
rials. An example of the latter idea would
be q heavy tule, the same shade as the cloth
embroidered IN both wool and silk, the same
shade being used throughout. Naturally, when
trimming "ton sur tom is used it must be eJe-
CANT to be effective, but to preserve the same
color and yet have the costume effective ts
considered the height Of modishness.