davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18

TUNES, cape and skirt costumes and many
styles OF frocks not intended for any special
sport, but merely for attractive and COM
Portable outdoor wear. Two models shown
here are desirable ones for such service "a
this, provided one does not want TO cling
to absolute simplicity and severity.
The one OF white fine linen worked all
over with single eyelets and bordered by
heavy linen embroidery applied was simple
in line, though elegant in detail, and the
little cape costume Of ecru linen, trimmed
In narrow bands Of ecru linen embroidered
in red dots, was particularly chic. the ad-
justment OF its red scarf being especially
clever.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18
THE HAIR MAKES THE nat FIT
Aooed Importance Given to tho Couture
by This Seasons Millinery.

There never was a time when the hair
was more important to n woman's dress
than it is to-day. Her hat is incomplete
without it.
The little bits OF chip that are turned
up on one side and down on the other and
then UP and down all over again in front
would perch like saucers on the heads ~
most women but for the obliging coF,re
which is this summer designed to fiji out
any gaps that there may be in the contour
OF the head.
I'm certain it will be becoming to YOU
saleswoman said the other day to Gus
toner, IF you'll only let me arrange tho
hair as II should be worn with these hats
1t Is not too small, and | will show you how
well it looks"
Then she pulled out the hair on ono side
OF the head until it made a firm founda-
ton for that side of the hat which had looked
as II 1t we're resting in midair with no sup
part: On the other side she pulled ou'
another WHIP, and that made the hat look
symmetrical and very becoming.
BEFORE that time II seemed soverGl
sizes too small. After the hair had been
made to At the hat it was charming,
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18

have in their sporting outfits coats OF leather
more or less after this model and intended
not merely for motor wear, but for Use in
any rough weather outing expedition.
AS for the leather trimmings, they are
legion this year, and p!pin {, collars. cuffs,
pockets straps, yoke, buttons, &c, oF
leather are favorite device, IT the fash
ionable tai'or. The remark bic color range
of the dyed feathers nowadays and the
suppleness Of finish in the new feathers
make the material more servireable in con-
nection with wearing apparel than ever be-
fore. and leather does undoubtedly add an
appropriate touch Of trimming to the hea vier
type OF outing frock.
PlAin tailored collars ard cuffs OF linen
or pique, detach so that they may be
readily removed and laundered are fur
nshed with many Of the best plain tailored
outing coats and embroidered collars Of
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18

A white serge costume OF this type pictured
hero is a fairly representative model and
succeeds in being picturesque without
being strikingly trimmed.
The collar and cuffs of dull light blue,
| trimmed in white braid and small gold but
| tons, and the futterng scarf give touch
| OF ooquetry to the simple frock, and an
underblouse OF soft white silk shows above
the rundown collar and below the elbow
| cuffs.
With the coat and skirt yachting COS
| tunes simple blouses Of soft silk, India,
taffeta, pongee, &c., are more practical
| than lingerie blouses although linen piqut
and the other heavier wash stufls made
upon tailored lines are liked for the purpose
| and Withstand sea air and dampness fairly
we'll.
The tailored shirt waist has suffered more
or less OF an eclipse since the sheer lingerie
blouse attained so great vogue. but it
still has its adherents and its uses and for
sporting purposes it is decidedly more
appropriate and satisfactory than the
sheer blouse. One sees the latter on the
links. the tennis courts, &C., but the girl
in the trig tailored skirt looks more smartly
dressed than her sister OF the dainty EN-
l-:l...i ,...., l.l-,,.s a,j 81, 10 ,.or COW
... - -. I;a.,.,,;,,o ta,,;,;,,, far no.
Ill.,. IaI.a.InI $4,000,
-, L;aaT,. e., !, ,Io,,.,, t., Mo
..nNn Is I'. ,t, .on,''''a,. ,,oinu t.,
80. n.i.. ~, 80 -
- 80. ,.-,.t -, ;,;,,a,,,,. h,a,,sa
VIZ 80. Wv" va ,.,s,'
.,e , sL.'. .,;.. ai",'a anI shi..t o,T j.;
~ .no Pm ,"i a'',l 9'..' W." -
pa y. WV pt'i.' s,r, CIV, Nj.
no s,se . 10 V'n' 4". , e,a., Wv e, NV
siee>e VI 'he CIV 'is'' any e,''o''''.es 'ns
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18
Woman Operates Excavatins Machine,

Ffom The 81. louis GLOBE Dfmoc,rt
Miss Eura Graham is the operator Of 'in
largest excavating machine that ever entered
st. Louis county. The digger is at wolE
in Kirkwood. where the new sewer systou \
being installed, and attracts much attention
on account Of its speed in blowing a tr,u,N
three feet wide and from ten to twenty foot
deep through hard. rocky soil
Miss Graham handles the guiding rod a.
brakes with skill, and the fact that She ia
probably the only woman operator Of sueh
a machine does not seem TO affect her IN ~"
least, She appears perfectly AZ home on ~
engine, and, az her position is out Of roach
OF all the greasy mechanism. she never shows
traces Of engine work.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18
FOR OUTDOOR GAMES
Athletic Girls Costumes Trim
and Practical.
MAY EVEN BE TAILOR MADE
As Important a Part as Ever OF the
Summ:r Wardrobe.

The Fair weather Costumes and the Rough
and Ready Gowns-Lea ther Trimmings
Legion This Year-The Tweeds, Home
spuns and serEcs-SOme Exceedingly
-.sunty BOlero Costumes Yachting
9owns-Two Piece Outing Frocks
IAked for Some Purposes-The Tai
lored Shirt waist in Partial Eclipse.
but Brought Out in Novel Forms
Fetching Ridins Habits Of Tub
NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS. Plating Liked
One hears a good deal concerning the
decline and fall OF the athletic girls empire
and the rise of tho fluttering feminine
but, as a matter of fact, athletics plays as
important a part in the summer girI's
program as ever.
Outdoor sports have become a matter
Of course rather than a fad-there's the
difference. They are taken for granted,
assume their correct proportions, and
their devotees are not the extremists the
class apart, that they were at first
Weather beaten face and throat and arms
are not the rage they once were and mascu-
Unity Of attire has had its day, even for
the girl who goes in for sports. Practi-
cal and appropriate clothing she does wear
for outdoor games. &c, but she does not
fly aggressively in the face of feminine
traditions, and when she's not in outing
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18

attire, she looks as much like a Vatican
figure. in tip tilted hat, futtering lace
and ribbons and high heeled shoes as
nature and her dress allowance will permit
All OF which doesn't mean that trig severity
q not In order for certain outing costumes
Sn the contrary, there are delightfully."-
simple and comfortable costumes, well
.ailored but devoid Of elaboration, which
lend themselves most appropriately to
rough outdoor wear.
The half length, semi-itting coat A. d
plain gored skirt with decided flare a coat
Of modified REFER persuasion, with a gor d
circular or plated skirt and a jaunty box
coat with one of the skirts alrea entioned
are the three models most in vogue among
these severely tailored suits There are
innumerable forms Of the bolero repre-
scented among the outing suits but, though
quite admissible they are not really so
smart for hard service as the coats Of which
We have spoken, provided these latter are
irreproaohably tailored.
Serge, cheviot and homespun are, n
usual tho materials most often chosen
for these practical sporting costumes
though some of the heavier suitngs in
shepherd's plaid or broken check have
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18

costumes made after this fashion and for
wear with them have picturesque all en-
veloplng yachting cloaks, warm, loose
and with or without hoods that may be
drawn up over the cap when the wind blows
hard or the air on deck is chilly.
The blouse Of serge or other wool material
like the skirt keeps its freshness and shape
better than lingerie or silk, and charming
effects are obtained in collar. scarf. &c.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18

and more sportswomanlike for outdoor
sporting events.
The form of the skirt depends largely
unon the length OF the coat With the long
rcdingote or semi-ntting coat, plain skirt
porcd or one of the ripping circular models
finished merely by heavy stitching above
the hem, u naturally selected by the best
talor., while for the shorter coats. some
one of the many plated effects is chosen.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18

heavy linen are also in order, though some
of the best tallors prefer the rlain stitched
wash collar.
On certain attractive costumes of white
serge, made with box or scr'i-httcd back
coats with double breasted fronts, fasten-
inG with heavy learl b'ltt ems, adiusta bic
collars and cuffs Of coarae linen crash in
dull blue or red lie over the white serge
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18

yachting costume Of white serge,
sketched for this page, was an exception
to this ruling, for the long ample. semi
fitting coat fell over a plated skirt The
cut of the coat was good and a relieving
note of color appeared in the small collar
cuffs and fronts where soft, dull blue cloth
was braided in white silk fiber braid and
embroidered in heavily raised bees OF gold
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18

collars and cuffs and furnish an attroctiye
note of color. They button to the lining
and may be worr or not, as the owner
prefers.
This san'e model made with the dull
biue collars and with plain bright gold
buttons in place of the penrl buttons makes
charming yachting costume, and even
for driving. golf, Ac,, some women prefer
the gold butt ons to the Eear. Dull blue
crash revcrs and cuffs are effectively used
upon dark blue serge suit made upon
the lines indicated for the white serge
and though blue serge has been the ia
Vorte outing material from time imme-
mortal no newer fav 'te elbows it from
its place. "a 81. n,n.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18

a considerable vogue for this purpose.
Panama and mohair. both favorites for
walking frocks, have not half the merit Of
the serges, cheviots and homespuns for
really rough wear.
Jaunty fair weather costumes OF these
materials, OF pongee, of wolfe, OF linen &c,
are offered in most attractive form, and the
more Of these the summer girl possesses
the greater her subtraction, but for noun
tain tramping, dubious weather sailing
or golf, &C., she should have ono service
able suit Of serge or homespun, warranted
to survive stormy weather or reckless
expeditions with some degree of respccta-
bility.
The Norfolk jacket is not so generally
liked for these serviceable outing cos
TUNES as it once was, though it still has a
place, and in England is almost inevitably
the coat chosen for hunting and fishing
wear-for what our English cousins call
moor costumes. A shooting coat more
popular on this side OF the water is made
more after the fashion OF the mans leather
shooting coat-loose, e4-"ioht, coming
down well over the furnished
with many ample To women
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18

The rough mixed tweeds and home
spuns show soil less readily than the plain
SERGE and Urc the practical sportswoman's
first choice for rough shooting, fishing
and mountain wear, but for ordinary out
door Use nothing is more durable, more
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18

and bright rown. The Doe design was
used only in the collar and cuff points.
one bee being posed in each point.
White silk braid simply applied is used
upon many of the white serge suits. and
braiding either in flst OF soutache braid
is successfully applied to outing costumes
though, since the makers of ready made
stockings have gone in enthusiastically
for braiding some Of the smartest tailors
prefer turning out strictly plain stitched
outing suits and trotting suits.
Two piece outing costumes, that Ia, blouse
and skirt costumes. are liked for some
purposes, and may have a coat to match
or he worn with separate coat. Some
women prefer their yachting or boaNng
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18

and narrow stitched belt both fasten with
small bright gold harness buckles. The
shirt is smart one, with no extra. awkward
fulness to spoil the fit of a riding coat, and
the to UGH Of gold is pretty enough, but
seems out of place on a tub waist. But
tons and buckles OF pearl would be more
suitable, but the gold seems to catch the
feminine fancy.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18
generally becoming and in better taste

generally becoming and in better taste
than blue serge
The serso7 have been greatly improved
IN some respects since the manufacturers
hay" bowed to the demand for supple
+" :ics, and one can buy serge possessing
soitneN- and Nliahility never before as
sooiated with this material; but for hard
VS." It Is well to choose quality that while
no, so StiN ~ the old time rye still re-
talns slight wrncas Of finish. Some
very lovely imported serges. light and
soft TO surprising degree, show a narrow
herringbonc weave, and others have so
very fine twill ana 80 soft and lustrous
Il finish that one must hook twice to dis
cover that they are really serge.
White serge is as popular as ever for
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-06-18

outing costumes intended for show rnther
than for hard wear, and in addition to
the coat and skirt model already noted.
an infinite variety of coats, short, long,
bolero, sack, redingote. &C., are shown
in white serge. Some Of the fancy bolero
costumes are exceedingly jaunty, but
the severely tailored coats from hip to three
quarter length are, If well made, smarter
The citizen. [volume] (Berea, Ky.) 1899-1958, 1905-09-07
RRanitlg III tllF
5ftrat SrIlnnl 18rar
BY MRS. A. wOODwORTH COOLEY.
Assistant Professor Department OF Education.
State University Of North Dakota.

teacher the teaching of reading be made the potent
influence the vital the permanent But reading teaching
reading be given their full legitimate meaning
Reading always and everywhere has its two-iod phase II
imagining and thinking with JOY in these activities also mastery
of the symbols with JOY this also Oral reading is AWAY, every
where ( seeing thinking and feeling melted by written words ~
giving another in the words spoken the pictures
words written for the purpose OF aousng sympathetic thought
ing in the listener The first steps nTeacng reading should this
abiding impression in the mind of the listener His attitude
words toward reading is important than the number
learned per month
TO teach oral reading pupils of any develop literary
taste from germ bud flower cultivate the Imagination pow
attention lead clearer and definite thinking
increase the pleasure reading give increased facility quick
recognition of word forms train distinct pronunciation
well modulated
The first in learning read then be- Getting vivid
Of objects and worth thinking and reading larger
clearer definite thoughts higher ideals beauty and
sound This only be done by with real things
while to know 2 enlarged experience CD expression word and by
hand ca familiarity with eratue 60 increasingly
distinct pronunciation with better moduaton CO..
Of mental pictures with written forms and their ()
ceasg ability instantly sight OF the written form, give
ng o others spoken words
The citizen. [volume] (Berea, Ky.) 1899-1958, 1905-09-07
GRINDING TEA TO POWDER
Max rs as Good, II Not Better, Bev-
enge as the Whole
Leaf.

III story tells that when coffee was
grst brought to the cities Of western
Europe the first makers IL % were
Turkt They roasted and ground tho
berries and served the liquor as it Is
served to this day in the east grits
and all We sin drink coffee as We
DRANK 10 then. With this difference,
that We mostly omit the gr!ts and
drink an infusion instead OF a dccoc-
ton. Il was not 30 with tea. No
Chinaman was imported with Tue hrst
pound Of sea 10 teach us how 10 make
and drink H. The consequence has
been that We have never drunk tea In
the Chinese way-that ls. as simple
infusion.
AT FIRST there seems to have been
great doubt as TO low TO deal with the
new herb. II Is even said that Il was
sometimes boiled, with salt and but
ter, and served up as a sort Of spinach
The old phrase. a dish OF tea. seems
to bear out this legend. Finally II
cane to be settled that the most
Wholesome and pleasant way 10 treat
Alf Tea ifaA MAa ~ AtAhN ~ AAAa a MN"
OF sweet soup with sugar and milk or
cream. l have personal knowledge Of
no country In Europe but one where
tea is used as In China-POrtugal.
which got It's knowledge OF teamaklng
from a province Of China. with which,
al that time. no other nation Of Eu-
rope was In contact
IT was while travelling on horseback
with a guide In the wilder parts OF
Portugal, away from the shops and
inns, where We had perforce 10 make
experimentals in the most economical
use Of the few ounces Of tea and cof-
fee that we could AFFORD to carry with
us. that we hit upon discovery. Hav-
ing no milk. we drank our tea, as most
Portuguese drink theirs, as a simple
infusion. sweetened with sugar.
Il remember 10 have read, believe
10 the travels of the Able Hue. that,
when the Chinese desire to be thrifty
in the use Of the finer and more ex-
pensive teas. they grind the leaf to
powder and use less for the infusion.
We found that tea could be ground In
a coffee mill as easily as coffee: that
eat made with the powder is as good
as or better than when made with the
whole leaf. and that the powder. as 1t
naturally would, goes further than the
tea leaf"
The citizen. [volume] (Berea, Ky.) 1899-1958, 1905-09-07
WELL SAID.

Never Is an automobile 80 danger
Gus as when John Barleycorn In act
ing as the hauffeur.-Chicago Daily
News.
The Brewers Journal. New York
and Chicago. IN a recent issue has
this editorial warning TO is constitu-
ents: In 50 but about ouetwcntieth
part Of Chicago was prohibition terri
toy. In 1904 nearly one-half OF the
city was prohibition or local option.
There are besides GOO towns and cit
les In Illinois having no saloons There
is certainly food for reflection 10 this
for the brewers of Illinois"
Drink attacks the spinal cord. pro-
ducing partial paralysis, hence
drunkards lose control of their limbs.
Drink poisons the brain nerves and
the drinker gets dead drunk-dead.
and yet he lives. He lives to die
another day. Apoplexy and kindred
diseases are much more frequent
among the incorporate than among
the sober, and as for insanity. fully so
per cent must be traced to drink
Dr. Madison c. Peters.
The citizen. [volume] (Berea, Ky.) 1899-1958, 1905-09-07
The FEVER RECORD.
Bears Out the Hopeful View Of Or.
White That the Worst Is over.

New Orleans, Sept. Record up TO
6 D. m. Friday: Deaths. 4; new cases.
80; new foci, 10; total deaths. PSI; to-
tai cases, 1858.
New Orleans. Sept 2.-The fever
record Friday bore out the hopeful
view of DR.. White and his fellow fever
fighters that the worst Is over and
that If the citizens Of New Orleans
are watchful and continue to give the
authorities the same cooperation they
have in the past few weeks the mira
Gle will be wrought of stamping out
the fever before frost comes to lay
low the last of the fugitive stegomyia.
Contrary to all expectations the fever
is assuming a milder form at the pc
Rod when II was expected to grow
most deadly and the deaths have
grown Insignificant in number. That
is true not only of New Orleans but
at the various points in Mississippi
where the disease has appeared. In
that state there have been about 70
cases to date and only one death.
The citizen. [volume] (Berea, Ky.) 1899-1958, 1905-09-07
VIRTUES OF MINERALS.
Medicinal Waters and Hot Springs
Have Long Puzzled scien-
lists.

The medicinal hot springs in some
parts of Europe aud the natural hot
waters owned by the United States
government at Hot Springs, Ark, have
always puzzled science, for. while the
curative effect OF the hot water was
beyond doubt, no chemical analysis
ever revealed anything to satlsiactor-
lly account for 1t. says the London
Lancet Il could hardly be supposed
that a few grains per gallon OF chalk
sulphate of lime. common salt and 50
on. could have any r/.rked benehciai
influence. The waters of Bath. BuN-
ton, COntrexeyille and Hot Springs,
Ark. exhibit a comparatively feeble
degree OF naturalization. and yet there
can be no doubt OF their therapeutic
value. Nor can Il be supposed that
water which Is naturally hot can have
greater therapeutic effects than would
be gained by the similar use Of arti-
hcially heated water. So fer, then, the
findings Of the physicist and the chem
list do not AFFORD a satisfactory by
pothesis In regard TO the therapeutic
value OF such waters.
The question now ariser whether tho
fact that these waters ne radioactive
will supply any explanation. Most II
not all OF the thermal springs IN Eu-
rope which have Teen examined have
been found 20 ccatain Ina slightly vary
ing qualities hsgon and helum and In
the majoriiy Of cases these waters
have been found 20 be distinctly radio
active. Indeed. the presence OF argon
and helium would appear To- be insep-
arabic from radioactive properties.
We seem here 20 be getting some light
at length on wha, has long been an
enigma that of the two waters show
ing n, same chemical composition as
regards their saline constituents the
one OF natural origin is distinctly SUI
perior. Independently speaking. 10 the
ono artihcally compounded
The fact o. that natural water
yelling up from the earth is az the
moment OF its discharge from rs
sOuroe radioactive. while ordinary
drinking water. rain water. well water
and the like DO not generally exhibit
this property 10 any extent Further.
since the property OF radloactiyity is
rapidly cyanescent the emanation
quickly vanishing % follows that II the
benefit derived from undressing a
course Of waters is due to the radio
activity OF those waters the treatment
should obviously take place near the
source Of the watos-in other words.
the waters SHOULD be- used when they
are showing maximum degree u
radioactivitN
The citizen. [volume] (Berea, Ky.) 1899-1958, 1905-09-07
CHOLERA SPREADING.
Forty-Thres Cases Of the Disease Re-
ported in Prussia.

Berlin. Sept. Forty-three cases
of cholera in all have been reported.
Nine persons have died from the dis
ease and many suspicious cases are
under observation. The legal and med
ical machinery for dealing with this
invasion of the Asiatic bacillus is
now working at full pressure.
Prof Edward Sonnenburg said that
no one need fear an epidemic such as
that Of 1928 because the health au-
thorities since that time had built up
an organization quite adequate 20
grasp the beginnings Of cholera and TO
put down the disease with precision
and frmness.
New York. Sept. 2.-That extra pro
cautions shall be taken 10 prevent
bringing I'm a case Of cholera among
immigrants from German ports was
agreed at a conference between Health
Officer A. II. Doty. Of this port. and
the representatives Of several trans
Atlantic steamship companies. The
plan is said to exercise great care in
taking the immigrants on board ship
in German ports. The discovery Of Z
case Of cholera in Hamburg was the
cause OF the conference. Or. DOty
said after the conference that he had
no reason TO think that cholera would
get to New York. considering all tho
precautions being taken.