davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Arizona republican., 1905-11-11
PATENTS.

PATENTS-HaZard & Harpham, Los
 Angeles. Send for free book on patents.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26
R.iSKET PRESENTS.
TWO Handy and Wei Appearing GIFTS Which
ResOurcefui Woman Has Made.

4 woman who has made the glorhcation
Of ordinary baskets hobby has given two
basket presents TO friends who find the
grea est satisfaction IN the gifts. One
Of the presents is work basket which l.
nothing more or les than common half
bu-hel basket enamelled white and lined
with cheap, pretty ch.ntz. In it, capacious
DEPTHS can he slowed away week. mend
ing and there's plenty Of room besides for
the usual small work basket
The other present is shoe box made
out Of champagne bottle basket. The
basket is stained dark mahogany. Across
the inside Of lbs cover run two broad strips
of braid in loops large enough 20 slip pair
cf sliurers through
This i- all there is TO what | consider the
finest shoe box gong said the recipient.
i do not line the basket. because il alriness
is Just what makes II the treasure u is.
II doesn't get one bit musty. | stand my
shoes IN the basket, and run my slippers
IN along the cover, which can then close
down easily, az there is plenty Of room in
the basket tor the slippers besides the layer
Of shoes. Its a treasure
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26

Either Of these methods for increasing the
width Of skirt IS good provided the ma :
teral set between the cores. whether braid
or silk. Is never more than two inches vide,
at the very utmost
The extra fulncrs ~ the waist caused
bv the Introduction Of the trimming may
h. taken up in pin tucks or merely fitted
into the skirt and made TO fall gently into
the fulness at the bottom.
4 very scant skirt is practically hopeless,
unless there is material enough left over to
rcmuke it entirely. Granted that this Is
the case. one Of the best Ways to do it is to
fit the skirt closely around the hips. and
then. il the material 70 IN added permits
10 put plniting about twenty or twenty
five inches deep on the bottom.
If the material ia not sufficient for this
then the cores should be cut of different
lengths. say the middle one about eight
inches from the bottom, the ones on each
side about fifteen. the ones next these
twelve. and so Oh. The additional material
may then he used as n shaped Nounce, set
under the ends Of the cores, which should
be either scaloped or cut In points.
Plated or tucked skirts from last year
should merely have the stitching ripped
TO within few inches Of the waist line, from
seven To nine inches from it in the front
and about five in the back. The introduce
ton Of any great quantity OF material OF
contrasting color or weave 70 increase the
size Of "A skirt is always a mistake, and
generally costs as much in the end as an
entirely new one while proclaming itself
a malleshift to every beholder.
The coat that is causing tho greatest
amount Of puzzling is the bloused front
with the short bell sleeve, whose popularity
was 50 great last spring and summer The
coat may very easily be made into pretty
bolero by simply cutting it short and fitting
it in a bit Mt the waist line. but the short
sleeve whose length was eked out by an
under sleeve Of lace or nliile-, Is as hard
problem as any one could wish.
In the newe,t models there are. generally
speaking. two distinct shapes for sleeves.
one perfectly plain and tight fitting and
the other modified lego mutton In
both the salient feature j. absolute lack
Of fulne,. between elbow and wrist.
In altering last year = coat sleeve the first
,hing 90 he determined il which of those
models will he most practicable. OF course.
If there is new material available. it is all
plain sailing. but II there IL none then taste
and ingenuity will 10 taxed TO their utmost
The setting in 81 shaped pieces at
shoulder or elbow j. never a succe 80. how
ever cleverly done IL i, last resort FOR
a sleeve that is so tight that it will not per-
nit the arm to go into it, and when that
stage is reached the best thing TO do Is TO
give the coat away.
For the sort of coat sleeve spoken OF
above the best thing TO do l. TO make it
into an elbow sleeve by cutting 1t in the
shape Of half circle. as wide as its shape
will permit. and putting four or five ruffies
Of lace or plated null or batiste, lace edged
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26

up tho wave, but so slowly that it was no
until this season that New York fairly
burst out with Marceled coifures. No,
don't believe the fashion will die out very
SOON for the reason that Par;sians arc also
partial to the wave just now and hair
dressing over hero is usually a fun year
behind that in Paris. by which l mean
that styles popular there ono season are
the rage over here the next winter
At this point the manager broke OF to
convoy pair of young women, who were
chewing gum. toward the elevator.
You may have to wait n few minutes.for
all the dressing rooms are in use now" he
told them
"One of those young women he an
nounced. when they were out OF hearing,
lis better customer than her mother. who
is one of the gayest matrons in town. The
daughter comes here four times and some
times FIVE times week and "a first. con
sidering her youth orr best hairdresscr
tried TO arrange her couture quite simply
and to wave the pompadour only. But
before long the Young lady rebelled
wanted puff added here and another
there and insisted that the back and sides
Of her hair, as well as the pompadour.
should be waved She is a debutante
who goes out great deal and seems to have
the idea that her hair must be done almost
every day here If she would look her best
as II necessary
well. undoubtedly few women can get
up an elaborate couture TO look as well as
a professional can make II look. and. OF
course Young girls can't and won't take
the trouble to make their cOiffurcs last
a couple of day, rs an Older woman viii
The young girl who usually accompanies
the one | am speaking OF has stIf. straight
hair which does not retain the wave long,
and if she could AFFORD II she would come
here every day All is we have her three
times a week which II about the average
of most Of our younger customers. although
some come every day. Even II The wave
STAYS in they want the benefit Of all the
pretty touches which only hairdresser can
give to the hair
Personally. don't think them extrava-
giant There are few women who ara not
improved by a prettily dressed couture
Occasionally | run across one who Is handy
about managing waving iron for herself,
but only occasionally. So far | am glad
TO say. 20 per cent. of the women who care
for their coifTures patroni1e hairdressers.
At a skating rink the other afternoon
party of young women who had tecu doing
fancy stunts on the ice began 10 make plans
for the next day while taking rest on one
Of the benches.
you promised TO 60 with me 20 the
matinee. said one, disappointment IN her
tone.
Il know it, acknowledged the auburn
haired young woman addressed And I'm
sure want 10 * badly enough They
say that Claude is just too sweet for any
thing in the star part. But | must have
my hair done tomorrow afternoon for the
Blanks dance you know. and | cant afford
that and the matinee too.
BE your own hairdresser for once.
And look like fright No thank You.
long ago stopped trying to wave my hair
in those big leaf like flutes which are so
becoming-the kind that look as II the hair
just grew that way itself. ] have n lot Of
hair, and when l used TO finish my per-
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26

Bu, the weak point Of tho ordinary reacy
made summer ndgigt Is the profusion of
coarse cheap lace with which 1t Is trimmed,
and little of the better lace will do more
for "A gown than miles Of tho coarse val
enCienues or point de Paris. Better by
far buy IA dninty lawn or dimity, allow
tuckings and founCings Of the material
TO bear the brunt of the trimming and
use a little soft pretty lace at throat and
wrists than 10 buy the SNOWY coarsely
trimmed models so plentiful In all the shops.
All white ncglisti in lingerie fabrics
have not the vogue they once had. The
nightgown of the present has taken on such
elaboration and approached 10 near the
boudoir or lounging gown that the line
between is often hard TO discern and
probably for this reason the matinee
and skirt models have become more
popular IN white wash stufs than the one
piece longing gown. There are. how
ever. exceptions 10 the rule, and some OF
these exceptions are the dainticst Of cna-
tons in sheer muslin and lace and en-
broidcry
OF a simpler style. though somewhat
expensive because Of It's embroidery, was
a charming muslin gown with deep
collar. deep shaped and sleeves EN-
bro idered in a heavy raised embroidery
Of bold design and edged 10y deep
lace frlls There were knots and ends
of ribbon, of course, and though the
gown had certain severity. 1t had also
a distinction lacking in many Of the moro
elaborate models
In the thin, ligh, silks there are negligd
robes Of every forn imag inable. China and
India silks are uDst generally used, and
least expensive. Int the light weight soft
mrs,alines and similar silks are very popular.
and or pc is, as always, a favorite material
for the elegant ngiig".
model in chiffon messane Of delicious
peach blossom Pink was one Of the most
Hkable gowns ihown 10y a Fifth avenue
importer, yet 1as particularly simple in
a.. design and IS within tho scope of any
clover ssamstrss Lace insertion Of a
euipure varicv, through which black
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26

the exception that the shades OF browu
which have green in them are generally
moro effective when different shades Of the
same color are combined. Patches Of
color such as rosettes. belts. &C, on plain,
cool surface invariably destroy the beauty
Of the whole garment Belts should al
ways be of the same color az the gown
or waist they are to be worn with. SO that
the division between waist and skirt may
be- rs little noticeable as possible.
One Of the pret.iest Of the many ways to
modernIze a shirt waist. whether silk or
cotton. i TO turn the sleeve upside down
and cut of the top part, which the chances
are ten 10 one will be more or less worn.
This will very materially shorten the sleeve,
and to give it the necessary length long
cuff viii be required.
To make this. tuck some batiste, white
if for a muslin waist, cream IL for silk
one. having the tucks running horizontally
Cut the cuff out so that the part where the
hand goes through Is so close that the cuf
must be buttoned each time it ia put on or
OF. and then sew all around it a lace edged
rufic Attach the cuff 10 the sleeve in a
manner that will permit its being taken
of 10 be Numbered without disturbing
the finish Of the sleeve.
Make stock for the neck in exactly the
same way. with buttons and loops at the
back TO fasten il. For convenience there
is nothing that can equal these detachable
collars and cuffs and there is no easier or
moro attractive fashion for furnishing
M an old style shirt waist.
For changing very thin frocks and gowns
TO the prevailing mode a dozen different
ways will suggest themselves. Materials
Of this description can almost always he
matched perfectly. Lace and embroidery.
both If which are used profusely, can be
introduced with good effect in almost any
gown. especially the alloyer embroidery.
which Is moro beautiful this year than ever
before
ono tan embroidered batiste has been
made over altogether by adding 10 It plated
founces Of plain batiste Of the same color.
The skirt has been made much fuller 10y
drawing il up at the waist. whore the full
ue-- Is taken up by lengthwisc tucks. The
sleeves are entirely Of a succession Of plated
rifnes. like those on the skirt. and the waist
ha- bands of plain batisie stitched on in
circles and disks The effect is lovely and
the frock prettier than ever before.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26

velvet baby ribbon was drawn, was the es-
sential trimming but the lines Of the
little gown were charming, as will be seen
from the sketch.
Attractive. too. was a gown in lilac silk
with a huge iichu collar Of finest embroi.-
cred batiste. whose ends iaboted down each
side Of the gown front almost to the knees.
And 10y the way. the most delightful tichus
and lchu collars are to be found ready
made in some Of the hest shops, and would
be the making Of the simplest negiigo or
lingerie frock.
When one comes to the province OF the
tea gown ones adjectives give up the
struggle American women have been
slow in taking UP the cult Of the tea gown;
but now that our smart folk have adopted
it they are apparently going TO all lengths
in il. rs in everything else.
Exquisite confections of luce, Of chiffon,
Of nous seine Of silks, embroideries &c.
are shown by the exclusive importers and
sold or copied for their customers. A
large number Of the models have tunic
drape.y in one form or another. as was
the case with the mousselne gown shown
among the cuts. in which a tunic, bordered
10y embroidered metallic gallon, falls over
an empire under robe.
In or pc these tunic gowns are beautiful
and serviceahle. and there are many models
for simple empire or princesse tea gowns
of or Pc or silk which do not need costly
trimming and are practical and possible
possessions, even for the woman Of modest
income
There arc. besides, gorgeous gowns,
rich in handsome lace. embroideries OF
gold on silver or colored silks, or jewels,
or paillettes; but. as has been said before,
..arga..fflr. "a -. Tor tho
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26

at the end Of It. This will make a very
pretty covering for the arm, dainty in the
extreme, and while it will not give much
warmth, it will accord perfectly with the
boero effect of the jacket. and with the
sleeve Of the shirt waist coming from under
it, it will not give the arm an undressed look
The ruiiies must be very full and finely
plated, overlapping one another closely,
and tho first one merely pceping out from
the edge Of the sleeve.
Braid is n great helper in altering and
making larger any part of IA street gown
whore there is real or apparent lack Of
material. A very wide Hercules braid
will answer as a yoke TO lengthen a skirt,
or it will do to form the cuff of a sleeve that
Is too short. and it may also be used to
lengthen bolero or Eton jacket
The wide braids are rather expensive.
but the effect produced by them in remodel
ling a suit is 80 far better in every way than
when a different material is used that there
should be no hesitation in going to the extra
expense. Besides good braids may be used
again and again, 30 long IA there ia
thread of them left.
The altering of gowns Of soft. transparent
textures is never very difficult thing to
accomplish successfully, but the main thing
is to keep the harmony of ooloring intact.
A tan gown. for instance. is far prettier
when trimmed with the same color or a
cream lace than it is with anything else,
and will always be found moro becoming.
Its charm lies in its neutral tint. and when
that ia used az n background to a stronger
color, it loses its character at once.
The same thing is true of brown, with
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26

that since l began TO have my hair done
by hairdresser l am unhappy unless II
looks like window model all the time and
| am dlscontented. too. because ] have 10
give up no end Of matinees and ice cream
,oda~
You see. girls. my allowance for such
things Is only s. week and out Of that |
must pay cagfarc. Before began to take
my hairdressing 80 seriously | used to
spend nearly all on matinee tickets, whereas
now have to save out Of 1t enough to pay
my hairdresser's bill
My allowance is 81 n week walled the
auburn haired girl with a despairlng look,
and mother won't give me a dollar extra
FOR the hairdresser. She thinks that young
girls ought TO be satisfied 10 have their
hair put up simply. and when I tell her
that Il j. not the fashion 10 have ones hair
dressed simply. she says: Well, learn 10 do
il yourself. then just as If could.
Last winter ! used to buy an orchestra
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26
NO MONEY LEFT FOR MATINEES
GIRLS ARE VICTIMS, Just NOW
or 4 HIIRDRESSING CRiZE.
Simple styles OF Wearing the Hair Are out
OF Fashionable Popular Marcel
Wave Requires a Professional Touch
ana Doesn't InSt-So Theafrc suffer.

OF fnSnlOn-Thc Popular Marcel
Wave Requires a Professional Touch
ana Doesn't Inst-So Theatres suffer.
How 70 take in two or three matinees,
or even one matinee "A week, and at the
same time keep their coiiTures keyed up
to the gracefully undulating pitch pre-
scribed by fashion is a question which in
these days gives lot Of bother TO many
young women to whom life for the time
being means the pursut Of good time
on a very limited allowance of pocket
money. The Marcel wave has good deal
to answer for.
II may toe announced on good authority
that young women are saving their theatre
money and neglectng matinbte idols to be
able to have their hair waved in elaborate
style by the hairdressers. just how theatre
managers and matinee idols feel about it
il not known. That the haIrdressers are
far from unhappy goes without saying
THE hairdressing department OF our
business" admitted the manager OF a
popular hair store in the shopping district
has increased enormously IN the last year.
He turned as he spoke to show three stylish
young women upstairs to the hairdressing
quarters.
And we owe lot OF business to the
wave,' he added. and to tho fact that
young girls have taken surprisingly to
elaborate coifYures in the last year. Before
then, older women were our mainstay,
the girls, except on very grand occasions,
being quite satisfied TO twist up their hair
in the simplest fashion Since the wave
has come in style, though. girls who have
just begun 10 put their hair up are among
our best customers.
THE wave is anything but new. Nearly
dozen years ago an adventurous French
man, by name Marcel. INTRODUCED a new
process OF waving hair TO Paris. which re-
ceived it with only mild enthusiasm. Four
or five years ago Americans began to take
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26

a week 10 n hardresser and blow in all
the rest Of my allowance on matinees.
4 have s. a week for incidantals. but
ever since before Christmas two-thirds OF
it has gone every week 20 my haircressers.
For once. remarked the first girl, who
had jet black hair and classic features I
am reccnclled TO having hair dir straight
as an Indians. | buy just as many theatre
tickets a. I ever did for the reason that !
never 60 near hairdresser nor have one
come near me. lt'~ no use
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26
MAKING OVER OLD GOWNS.
DEFT TORCHES CAV GIVE THEN
ADDED ATTRICTITENESS.
The strictly Tailor Made Gown Hardest to
Manage itcmodclllns Last Springs
Subtitle Coat Il PrOblem-Thc Light
FrOCkS Not Difficult 10 Alter.

Frocl,s Not Difficult 10 Alter
1t often happens that a house gown. or
any other gown that permits an abundance
Of trimming, il far prettier and moro satis-
factory after it has been made over than
when IL was first finished hut 1t is very
seldom that this il true of a strictly tailor
made street suit. More often than not.
there Is no material left TO piece out the
tailor gown. and il there is any there is
apt to be difference of color owing to the
suit having faded from exposure TO sun
and weather. When this difference in
color between the suit and the left over
material exists. the only thing 20 do is To
wet the unused cloth thoroughly and spread
it out fiat where there is very strong
light but not in the sun for that would
fade it hopelessy.
Happy is the woman whose last springs
suit was built on the lines of the advanced
models. and whose skirt by its voluminous-
ness foretold the fashion of year later
While many of the new skirts are habit
backed, and are fairly close fitting, they
are rnanifestly of new cut and could
never be mistaken for those OF previous
years.
The skirt Of last year that was made
with clusters OF tucks or inverted plnits
az each gore needs but little alteration. 1t
is the plain seven or five gored skirt that
il taxing the ingenuity Of home dress
makers and seamstresses.
A nine or eleven gored skirt may be
made to look very we'll by simply opening
each seam and inserting silk strips, Of the
same color, or by stitching between the
cores some sort Of lining and covering it
with braid about an inch and half wide
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26
Bushes lIIsundcrstood

From hc B1ldu.n Tfrie,
The Hon, J. ". Crcamer was up from Rosnton
Monday. The waichfal eye OF a Times reporter
noticed Mr.. Creamer blushlngly call the Judge o.
Probate to one Side and whisper something in his
ear md a. once supposed that marriage license
was what be wanted, but It al mistake Il
seems and Str. Crcaner only wanted 10 have a mort
gage cancelled.
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26

Torrance my head was about as big az a
bushel basket
That's my case exactly chimed in n
locks we're a pleasure 10 see Il simply
have TO so 10 a hairdresser at least three
times week if want 10 look up 10 date
and not IA if had just come from the back
woods. l have tried putting up my hair
on all sorts of oontrivances warranted 20
give the correct wave and got in return
only frizzes and crimps. The worst Of it Is
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26

seat every week for Wednesday or Thurs
day matinee 10 get good look at the star
and nearly always / went on Saturday
too aud sat i'm the gallery. Now | can
only 20 once week aud l never dream oil
sitting in the orchestra"
I'm looking forward 10 Lent remarked
a Gibson girl with dark brown hair" then
I won't be going 10 five evening enter
tainments a week and need not be so par
ticular about my hair. After Ash Wednes.
day mean to get along with one viT1
The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-02-26

Psi-An' phwy did Clancy 20 TO the hospital
Alko--It wor iu-iitsu ruse 70 make Casey
1 Ink be wor gitiin the betth.r a. the folghi
The Marietta journal. [volume] (Marietta, Ga.) 1866-1909, 1905-11-30

Last summers pleasures are al
ways brightest when the winter is
coolest.
When a man is long on energy
and short on ability to use It he
is to be pitied.
ID n Paint costs only 81 30 gallon
Seven gallons paints q moderate size
house. Sold by W A Sans & Company
A girls skirts will always stay
down much more easily ifshe ia
awful thin.
A moral wrong can not be made
legally right.
LAM Paint. Lead and Zinc non
chalkable. Wears and covers like
gold. Sold by W A Sans & Company
- - - auna .~mn $3.50 mw
The Marietta journal. [volume] (Marietta, Ga.) 1866-1909, 1905-11-30
Oakhurst

Rev Rowe, of Atlanta, was the
guest of A d Kemp Sunday.
Mr. and Mrs Oswald and three
children, of Wabash, Ind, arrived
at Marietta last Wednesday on an
extended visit to Mrs Oswalt's
parents, Mr. and Mrs Garner. of
this place.
Miss Mamie Mitchell has re-
turned to her home la Atlanta
after a very pleasant visit to rela-
tives and friends here.
Miss Mamie Griggs, Of Mac
land, was the guest of Miss Re-
becca Kemp last Saturday and
Sunday.
Mrs William Dobbs, formerly
OF this community, was brought
down from Canton, last Tuesday
morning, and inferred in the
Sandy Plains cemetery, Rev G 4
W Dobbs officiating at the grave.
The many friends of Mr. Nit
Latimore will be glad to learn
that he is some better since he
has had az operation performed
on his throat. A, Id.