The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-02-23
THE FASHIONS.
SPRING SHOPPING DELAYED BY
 COLD WEATHER.

shepherds PIaIds POpuIar-New Shirt
 waist suits-FIowered Hats-A Jew
 eIers Word About Corals.
 The continued cold weather has had a somewhat dampening effect on the enthusiasm of shoppers for spring hats and early patterns of silk and muslin. It is hard to admire organdies and li- lad trimmed picture hats with the thermometer close to zero and the wind around the Flatiron building piercing through fur-lined coats Shopping activities, as far as clothes are concerned, are at their lowest ebb about this time of year. However, new models in shirt waists and, suits are being unpacked and windows are blooming with beautiful hats. Spring is at hand by the calendar, at least. The shepherds plaids. which is the correct name for two-colored cheeks or plaids. are being shown in all materi- als. By the way, does every one know why they are called shepherds plaids? In the Highlands every fighting man formerly wore the plaid of his clan, as he would paint the arms of his house on his belongings, and for the same 1 reason, that few could read his name even if he were able to write it. The simple folk who belonged to the clan only as servitors or dependents did not
 wear the clan-plaid. Perhaps they could not afford tos own it, At all
 events, they wore the simple two7color plaid which to present-day taste is prettier than the startling combina- tions of the chiefs of. old.
 Quite the handsomest of the new checks are of fine voiie, almost as sheer as silk yelling. They come in blue, | black, brown, red and violet, in combi. nation with white, and have small dots Eof the color scattered over the surface. | None of these made up have been seen, but it is easy to imagine that they will make beautiful gowns. White silk | rather than colored will be used for l Things.
 Checked chiffon taffeta has been used l for a number of handsome shirt-Waist | suits. One in black and white had a waist laid in small box plaits. Narrow black silk soutache was seWed on to | simulate a round yoke. This yoke had a border of black and scarlet fancy soutache. The same. trimming decora | ted the high cuffs of the sleeves. The shirt was. box plaited, and was very I full.
 The checks make good redingote suits as well as simple gowns. One ir a. rich green taffeta and cream lace The skirt and redingote were laid 1T deep, broad plaits and edged with 8 five-inch band of taffeta. The bodice
 part of the redingote had lapels of tai.
 feta, overlaid with heavy lace, and was
 fastened with four large silk-covered
 buttons, The cuffs matched the lapels I with taffeta and lace there was a pretty pointed girdle of the taffeta. | Nothing could have been more at. tractive than a red and white liner
 crash shirt-waist suit. In this thu checks were represented by bars of thu
 color which crossed each other irregu
 larly. The effect was very sketchy I and light. There was a narrow pane
 in the front of the skirt, and stitched plaita, graduated in length, until they
 became quite short in the back, lef ! the greater part of the skirt full ant plain. The waist had stitched plait'
 on the shoulder, with a broad effect a
 the sleeve cap. The sleeves were ful
 and plain with the lower part laid il |stitched pIaits, which formed a higl
 cuff, A very wide belt of soft rec leather with a gilt buckle confined th' waist.
 1 It Is good news that we have oul choice in shirt waists, running iron the plainest to the most ornate models It is true that the ornate models out number the plain. Still, one may witt ! due searching wear simple blouses l The very plainest seen this spring could be worn only by a woman with { igood figure, which. in these days
 means principally 8 good chest ana shoulders. It used to mean a smal
 waist. The shirt waist is best devel oped in heavy linen or cheviot. It is l plainly tailored, without so much as { | plait or a tuck in the shoulders, ant
 has only suggestion of fitness at th' I waist. Yet it has a loose effect. 4 rather wide button band and q severt folded stock finish the waist. Some
 models show a patch pocket on thu
 left side, rather high up on the waist
 Most of the waists are furnished lwith stitched plaits running far ou over the shoulders, to give the figur'
 breadthJ There is hardly a suggestion
 of blouse effect at the waist. Sleeves are usually full, with narrow cuff
 bands and often high, fitted cuffs
 These are lovely in the thin lingerit
 blouses, as they furnish a surface fo1
 exquisite embroideries and needlework
 The prettiest of the plain waists ar'
 tucked, or rather plaited, on the shoul
 ders, the plaits stitched to a yok
 depth, except one or two which ar
 stitched to the waist. Sometimes tn
 plaits are dart shaped, that is, running
 to a sharp point at the lower end
 These are especially good when tn
 waist is embroidered. Wide linen belt are to be worn, and of linen stock
 there seems no end. The great troubl
 with the majority of the new stocks i
 that they are not made to launde
 without being taken apart, This ce1 l tai i,,Jxy ,,ak ,,a ffoYol Mo nr1 uxya1,tc. |