The San Francisco call., 1905-02-26

bling the filet lace which is familiar
here The darning in this case. or the
work in the center of the lace, was done
in silver and white raised work And
there were cuffs and collar. yoke and
hip yoke, and a deep founce for the
foot of the skirt. The skirt f1ounce
could be draned or not, as it was made
in points and was suitable for draped
dounce. or even for paneling.
1t was pretty Wilhelmina who re-
cuested that her spring gown be made
of red current cloth. The cloth is very
fine, very light, very soft and elegantly
adapted to spring use. The suit is to
be made with a three-quarter coat, cut
away in the front and finished With
rcvers, smart cuffs. high shoulder puffs
and a lavdown collar. 1t is very
smart coat and looks particularly well
over the rather plain skirt which is
part of this suit There are two skirts,
>ene Daneled in the front and made with
a semi-train, and the other plain and
of walking length.
Pansy color will be popular this
spring. 1t is a color that is neither
purple nor a lavender, but which suS-
gests the full-blown oansy in it's soft
est, richest tones. One can get a great
deal of wear out of pansy cloth gown.
as it can be trimmed with one Of many
colors and frequently changed. Green.
white. black, corn color and violet all
go well with pansy color.
There is a perfect fad for trimming a
gown in such a way that the trimming
can be taken off and other trimmings
h,s
trimmed with new green. This makes
a very dressy suit with its gorgeous
green vest, while the hat has its
shaded green plume. Later in the sea-
son the green can be removed and
white satin can be applied in its place.
Now there comes the white null. or
the white lawn shirt waist, or the shirt
waist of white nainsook, or of any deli
cate washable material
Tailored Gowns Trimmed With Lace.
The spring suits will all be consplcu-
Gus by their uses OF lace. Lace will
be used to make color and cuffs, and
it will be used in every other way
possible to lace. And this is saying
great deal, for the possibilities of lace
are wide and varied.
Perhaps the prettiest innovations for
the tailor-made gowns are found in the
lace cuffs which are now made rather
deep and edged on both edges with
frills of chiffon and of organdie. One
can take the old pair of lace cuffs,
frill them along each edge and have
something as new as the most ap-
proved voice Of fashion could dictate.
The turnovers are as popular as ever
and perhaps one may say they are
more popular than ever, for they come
in greater variety and in every color
Colored laces are impressed into the
service. and embroidered laces, and one
can buy turnovers that are maryels
in delicate handwork.
Skirts are simply glorious this spring,
though they are for the most part
short. Dressmakers who object to
butchering a velvet skirt. or one of
handsome cloth. will, sometimes, per-
suade a woman to allow her handsome
skirt to be long, but as rule a wom-
an insists that her skirt be cut off to
walking length, which just swings
clear from the sidewalk all the way
around. It is youthful smart and easy
u manage.
There is asnew length which is called
carriage length. 1t is for women who
always go in carriages and is little
used by those who walk. This skirt is
made fully two inches too long in the
front and is just the same length all
the way around. 1t is a sweep length.
The effect is elegant and somewhat old
fashioned, too. And to be oid-fash-
toned is now very stylish. But it is
only for carriage wear, for, if lifted
this skirt takes both hands and be-