The Birmingham age-herald., 1905-09-10

cardinal silk embroidered in self coors to i'll in the neck and sleeves, the velvet rib bon of the henrietta froek being used on the gnimpe too
 The ceinture remains delightfully."- promi nent in all of the new gowns What with the many corset makers bending all of their energies to produce n tapering waist effect and the fashionable dressmakers adding their quota likewise small wonder Is it that the success of the gown depends largely upon Just how this one little feat ure is managed. Deep and deeper and deepest Is the way that one would de- scribe the latest showing of these; and the least prominent ceinture now boasts of at least four inches fin depth, where Inst seAson two was considered sufficient. Many of them ought to be catalogued as corselets. rather than belts or girdles; and even the short and not too slender girl can wear these when the front Is sloned down to a gentle point at the lower edge and the top follows the same, or even more marked slope from the under arm to the center front.
 Another very marked feature of the fall | fashions Is the favor with which slash ings are viewed. Coats, sleeves and skirts | are slashed to show either the same or | some contrasting material beneath; and | more often than not ribbons are laced through wrought rings or eyelets on either edge of the sashlng, producing fasclnat. 1 ing lattleed effect.
 Paneled skirts have alternate wide and narrow panels, the broader ones with eyelets worked all down either side, and | silk or velvet ribbon laced through so that they lattice over the narrow panels. These latter are usually pleated, the pleats stitched down or well pressed as far as or slightly below the knee, and the ribbons tying in splashing bow | where the pleats are released. This Is | quite q favorite mode for young girls 1 gowns, and especially for party and dancing frocks for the girls of some dozen summers or less.
 Braids and braidings are making their i appearance in many quarters that here | tofore they have not been permitted 10 occupy. Our grandmothers would have smiled, either indulgently or indignantly nt the suggestion of braiding a silken gown but their granddaughters are today laying especial stress upon this feature, and frocks of taffetas, moire, faile franchise and other silken weaves are | not considered as being up to all the requirements of style unless certain amount of braldlng Is displayed. Braid and velvet ribbon are favored eombina- tons in this connection, and from tho narrowest soutache to the broad diamond weaves, with their many pullstrlngs woven in at convenient intervals, there is hardly pattern of braid that is not in use for trimming some kind or an. other of silken gown.
 For demisason uses the sllken coat Is taking to itself all of the novel features of fashion. Either 1t Is very long, in- deed, or else it is one of those short sacque-shaped affairs that make no pre-. tense whatsoever at fitting, or even sug 1 gesting the lines of the figure. There seems to be no sort of q halfway mode or a compromise In these either very long or very short is the rule, aud l sleeves seem to reverse this Idea. The long coats almost invariably display q half or three-q quarter length sleeve, while the short coats have full-length one.
 Tine circular skirts thnt are making themselves so very prominent in the | later fashions are most of them lined throughout with n silk of changeable hue This lining Is scanned In with the skirt itself, top and bottom, and it is | very often caught, also, into the bias 1 front and back seams that the Import. | ed models in such skirts display. This makes the application of the required in terlinlng much more facile, and often times the princess haircloth Is scanned In with the silk, the former being cut to shape with the latter, and the two scanned in together. Some sort of a bind Ing at the edge is imperative with ihiT | style, even when the skirt Is cut to cleaf ! the ground all around, and bias velyeteen |, is used by the best makers, since this | does not rub or chnfe the smart shiny black shoe which dominates the mode for the coming autumn and winter months.