Vermont phÅ“nix. [volume] (Brattleboro, Vt.) 1834-1955, 1905-08-18
Where Bailey Met His Death.
Tragic End Of Daring Mountain Climber
An Account Of the First Ascent Of Ell
Captain, "Yosemltes Master Wonder.n

SdpltdHt ~ oSenlteS MASTER Wonder.'
Mr.. j. c. Stats gives the followiils
account in the San Francisco Chronicle
of the terrible climb up Eel Captain which
cost his companion G. A. Bailey, his life
There is something in all great noun.
tain peaks which seems like a direct
challenge from nature to the traveller
The sheer height Of an unscaled summit
rises insolently, as If 1t laughed at the
insgniiicance Of man. 1 am sure that
this idea has occurred to every climber
who has set his strength and cunning
against the stern face of the granite, and
l know 1t qCickened in the breast of one
at least the determination to let no crag
go unconquered. That one was my friend.
Charles A, Bailey of Oakland whose in
trepidtty led to his fatal fall from the
most perpendicular face of Ell Captain OIL
June of this year. That mighty wall has
been scaled at last-but at what cost
IL was my first visit to the Yosemite,
and l started out with a general de-
termination to let no view escape on ac-
count of the difficulty of climbing to the
best point of vantage. But the first
glimpse of the valley from the gorge of
the MERGED temporarily put all thoughts
OF climbing out of my mind AS the stage
rumbled along at the base of Ell Captain
the idea of attempting to scale it seemed
simply ridiculous, and l understood at
once why nobody had ever, up to that
We arrived at the hotel on the evening
of June 2, and as 1 listened TO the stories
of what others had done, my courage re-
vived. Then somebody introduced me to
Charles A. Bailey, and the spell of the
mountaineer was upon me. Bailey told
us of the peaks he had surmounted in
Asia and in Europe, and as he spoke with
the vivid language of a good raconteur,
climbing seemed easy. The next day we
spent enjoying the glories of the valley
which are within the reach of the most
ttmid soul, and it was not until the fol-
lowing Monday that he mentioned FL
Captain. 1t was several hours before the
sun had gilded the neighboring peaks and
spires when we started down the east
bank of the river. No more lovely morn
ing ever tangled with the spirit of spring.
time. Nowhere was there a foreshadow-
ing hint of the tragedy which was to end
the day.
We walked as far as Bridal Veil Falls
and sat down to plan our campaign, COM
menting at the same time on the sur
passing loneliness of the scene. We had
not yet fully determined to make Ell
Captain the objective, and arriving at
Cathedral Spires, debated whether it
would not be well to attempt the gorge
between them. Then we turned toward
the river and crossed the bridge which
leads TO New Inspiration Point-how I'M
fortunate nomenclature often is-and
there to the right rose Ell Captain itself
steep and unconquered. Bailey at once
laid bare the plan he had been cherishing
in his heart, and without much per-
suasion I agreed to help him make the
mad attempt, which, l was yet tc learn,
was to go where no human foot had gone
before.
By ten o'clock our progress had become
very much slower The path was now
frequently overhung with projecting
shelves of rock, and the foothcld con-
sisted of fragmentary lodges to reach
which Bailey would climb upon my
shoulders and then, taking hold OF some
projecting knob. slowly draw himself up
to a place of safety. 1 would then pass
him his staff, with which he would REACH
down and help me to gain a place be-
side him.
After allowing my companion to use me
as ladder a few times in the way de-
scribed, 1 proposed that we give up the
enterprise, and descend, if possible, by
the way we had come. But my loss of
nerve was momentary. To go back would
in itself have been an undertaking
full of peril, and when Bailey cried.
''Never give up till you're up" l was
seized again with the enthusiasm which
loves to conquer difficulties l suppose it
is some such spirit which bids men cut
down a giant tree and hold cotillon
parties on its stump-the delights of
nuBet De IL q giant
redwood or FL Captain.
That's right! Brace up, and the sum-
NIT is ours" said Bailey, when he found
me ready to proceed. But no sooner had
we recommended the climb than he him
self seemed to realize the desperate
nature of the situation.
IF one of us should fall he observed
at would mean death-to both"
why both?" asked /.
Because neither would be able to climb
up or down from this place without the
assistance of the other"
Then God grant that may not be the
one left alone!' 1 cried Nothing could
have been more horrible than the thought
of being solitary, helpless clinging be-
tween heaven and earth to the face of
that sheer precipice, feeling ones strength
gradually go and waiting for the inevitable
fall From that moment l knew that it
was to be fight with death, and the
very extremity of the danger nerved me
to go On. In the end it was, indeed, l who
was left alone, but my better luck than is
likely to come to a man twice, l was not
called upon to share the fate which over
took the brave man who had acted as my
guide
But we now faced a well-nigh perpen-
dicular wall of rock, with nothing to
there a small shelf or crevice. We
could not see more than few feet above
us, as it was exceedingly dangerous to
lean back or try to obtain a clear view of
the way. All that promised a foothold
was a tiny ledge nearly ten feet directly
over our heads.
Bracing myself as before, 1 let Bailey
climb upon my shoulders. Then he
reached up with one hand and grasped
the edge of the shelf, and a moment later
had succeeded in seating himself upon it,
1t was a magnificent feat OF strength,
agility and coolness-the last he was des-
tined ever to perform. He seemed quite
elated at having bridged a seemingly i'm
possible part of the journey, and called
down to me, quite exultingly:
when you reach this place the hard
climb will be over"
A moment later he said: Pass me
my staff and 1 will help you up"
These were his last words. Whether
he was seized with fright, vertigo or
weakness 1 do not know, but an instant
later / saw him fall back against the
face Of the rock. The shelving ledge on
which he sat let him slip, and he shot
like an arrow into the abyss, passing
about three feet to the right of where l
was standing.
1 saw him strike first one ledge and
then another. till falling In a bruised heap
upon point of rock many feet below, he
bounded and took the final plunge out Of
sight.
1 was not frightened. 1 was not ner-
vous. 1 did not cry out. l felt as II I