The sun. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1833-1916, 1905-04-23

artist maker and for the bride who cannot
allow herself that indulgence some mode
less difficult Of successful achievement
Is a wiser choice. The full skirt OF plain,
long lines; the draped, pointed bodice; the
transparent yoke or Ruimpe and berthe
or other olinging shoulder drapery; the
long mousquetAire sleeve or elbow sleeve,
are all favorite ideas with tho maker Of
wedding gowns; but the increasing vogue
Of the surplice has led to a fancy for draped
surplioe bodices upon wedding gowns,
and we have selected such a model for
reproduction here.
The skirt Of this gown has a petticoat
effect Of lace Aounces, pointing downward
slightly In the middle, and a deep lace
hounce with clusters Of orange blossoms
nesting In its heading runs all around
the skirt bottom; but though this was a
beautiful and successful model, 1t cannot
be recommended for every figure, and
palmer skirt lines are usually more edeo-
tive.
A well known New York dressmsker,
discussing the matter, put 1t this way:
III you have any sort Of figure to work
with, the palmer your outline under the
veil the better. The mat erial should be
soft, rich and clinging and allowed to fall
in graceful folds. Liberty satin Is an ideal
wedding gown material.
Personally would prefer using nothing
else, though many customers insist upon
some Of the still sheerer satin finished silks
or crepe, or sheer stun. The liberty rs
soft enough for grace and firm enough
for severity Of line. You ruin a wedding
gown when you overtrim it and pinch it
up In all sorts Of tucks and shirTings and
fubdubs.
MAKE the skirt close around the hips
ample at bottom, full yet clinging. like
a skirt with only deep tucks or a fat band
Of lace at the bottom, but draped founces
can be used with good results.
THE guimpe must fit perfectly and be
transparent. There must be no bunchy
drapery over the shoulders and the sleeves
must not be extreme, the waist curves must
be carefully defined by the draped or
moulded bodice or Rlrdle The draped
bodice Is much smarter than a girdle.
A slender, clearly defined figure under
the misty floating veil-that's the artistic
idea for the bride, and that's what always
work for though nature isn't always on
my side
Consideration Of the up to date trousseau
plunges one into long and complex story.
but what has been said Of the street frook
in earlier fashion articles applies TO the
brides ira yelling frook or going away frock;
for the gorgeous going away costume
dear to English and French brides is not
favored on this side Of the water.
The two severe but chic cloth frocks
sketched here are good models, and the
travelling coat also shown among the cuts
Is a most practical and modish garment.
useful for the inevitable motoring as we'll
as for travelling. In tafieta or pongee,
tho coat would develop well, and mohair
GOAT Of this type Ia a satisfactory garment
for rough wear during warm weather,
The full redlngotes, belted OF shiTred at
the waist and falling in ample folds almost
TO the bottom Of the skirt, are gaining con-
adorable favor as driving or travelling
GOATS for the spring and summer season, and
when well made In silk Of good quality are
attractive, though not becoming TO all
figures. Shot silks In the soft old time
color combinations are especially liked
for these ooats, but they are mnde, too, in
the plain tahstas, surahB and pongees.
A very good coat Of this class in a Fifth
avenue shop was Of dark velvet glace taieta,
With a fat collar hnish and cuffs Of coarse,
dark 6cru linen embroidered in shades Of
A1,tak