Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-01-14
THE SEPARATE WRAPS
Popularity Due to Changes
in Sleeves.
ARELOOSEANDFLOWING
DoLMANs AND CAPEs WORM BIZ
ELDERLY WOMEN.
Long Coats Best for Rough Wearing
The Newest
Furs.
Written for The Evening Star.

Written for The Evening Star.
One OF the most pronounced features of
late winter fashions is the constantly In
creasing vogue Of the separate wrap. The
two-piece or tailored suit has enjoyed such
long and uninterrupted favor that when
makers of modes first suggested boom in
independent wraps the retail dealers were
skeptical. Now with the season at flood
tide these same merchants find themselves
long on tailored suits and short on the sep
arate wrap.
Unquestionably the present vogue Of this
garment is largely due to the change in
sleeve shapes. The lego mutton sleeve
and its notifications, all rising toward the
in outer garments; therefore. the tight-fit-
ting lines In coats have given way to loose
flowing lines. while the snug-fitting sleeve
has developed into huge puff or wing eff
feet. These modes are effective on an ell
derby woman, adding to her dignity. and
on the very young woman, making her
look quaint and old fashioned: but to the
woman of middle years and mediocre at
fractions they are the most trying OF
styles.
In the matter of fabrics the field is prac-
tically unlimited though silk appears only
for dressy wraps and the vogue of the plain
kersey, tweeds zbelines, plain and broad
tail velvets. and last, but not least, the
various rainproof cloths, all find favor for
separate wraps.
All Lengths Worn.
While 1t is an exceedingly catholic sea-
son in the matter of lengths, there is nc
doubt that the coat which measures three
quarters or more in length is enjoying a
high measure of popularity. This length is
sometimes broken by yoke effects or cir
dies, but only in the smartest Of fur and
70 nff ,,11 frir ,nd
see the little bloused effects that are SO
jaunty and SO dear to the heart Of the
average woman.
The woman who can buy but one sepa-
rate wrap and who has a dresSy tailored
suit Is very apt to select something on
the raglan order. The new wraps of this
sort partake in texture and cut of the
characteristics displayed in listers for
from neck to hem, the pIeats being
stitched down as far as the waist line
and then well pressed to the hem, with a
shallow half belt to hold them In place.
The fronts are loose and usually double
breasted, the sleeves big and roomy, and
a touch of color contrast is given by en-
placements of plain cloth that decorate
the fiat collar, cuffs and pocket flap.
Plenty Pockets.
The number of pockets in these wraps,
which are admirable for shopping, motor
ing and all sorts of ordinary outdoor
wear. is actually increasing, and the ideal
garment has a pocket on either side of
the front and a small breast pocket for
change, all of which have flaps which
button down Snugly.
The newest of these coats do not reach
to the bottom of the dress, but Show
from six inches to a foot of the skirt. In
cidentally 1t may be mentioned that the
well-groomed woman does not abuse this
convenient and long-suffering wrap. She
keeps it as well pressed and tailored as
does her husband or brother who sends
his raglan regularly to the tailor for
cleaning and renovation.
Among the poSt-holiday sales which
are worth considering are those which
offer remarkable reductions on a good
selection of fur-lined coats Just now one
may buy three-quarter or even longer
loose coat in a good quality Of cloth, lined
with squirrel skin, for s25. A very stun
ming model in this line shows a fecked
tweed In gray, lined with squirrel skin.
1t Is finished very simply with rows Of
heavy stitching and small shawl collar
and turn-back cuffs of the fur.
Double-Faced Cloths.
Among the novelties in these mid win
ter coats are double-faced cloths showing
a plain color on the outside and a strik-
ing plaid on the under surface. These
coats are shown in the popular shades
of brown with the under side brown,
green and red.
For young girls bright red coats are ex-
tremely fetching, and a model which halls
from London is now being worn by the
heiress of a well-known New York family.
1t Is brilliant scarlet, cut in sack shape
showing the Inverness cape with a modifi-
cation-that is, the cape comes over the
shoulder and sleeves only, and not in front.
1t is faced with black cloth and has a
stand-up military collar lined with the
same. The sides of the cape and the cuffs
are set off by gold buttons. which are also
used for fastening the double-breasted coat
itself. The sleeves are gathered full into
black broadcioth cuffs. Except In very
above the bust line in the form Of revers,
and the contrast between the black and red
is extremely effective.
Brown and Gold.
Another novel coat is built of tan-colored
kersey. trimmed with embroidery and
braid, showing the popular brown shades
mixed with gold. This Is built on long
loose sacque lines, the back showing
broad double box-pleat from either side of
which the belt springs. while the front has
inverted pleats running from shoulder to
hem. The garment has double sleeves, a
tight-fitting undersleeve, with heavily en-
broidered bell-shaped cuff, and the large
angel sleeves which fall over these are fas-
tened on with yoke empiecement over the
shoulders. Their outside seam gives the eff
feet of an inverted pleat. The braid and
embroidery which run around the neck and
down the front are set OH on either side by
gold bullet-shaped buttons, and the belt has
a gold buckle to match.
What might be termed a cape with
sleeves is garment which just now finds
high favor with the middle-aged woman,
because it can be worn over the high
sleeved blouse without Injurious effect on
the undergarment. The wrap proper is
pleated into a collar-shaped neckpiece
which Is completely hidden under embroid-
cries. The sleeve and the coat being cut
in one, the garment hangs in full folds
straight from the shoulder to point we'll
below the knee. Between each of the DART
shaped pleats are inserted embroidered mo-
tits to match those employed on the col
lar and shaped neckpiece. The sleeves are
gathered into large fiat band of the en-
broidery and the yoke effect is enhanced
by the use of ribbon resettes with long
ends finished Off with silk tassels This
model developed In hunters green cloth
with gold and tan embroidery and tan-col-
ored ribbons was most effective
Stoles Worn Long.
Where the two-piece suit is used, the
long fur stole is employed to reduce the
tailored effect. AS winter advances women
seem to add more and more tails to these
long stoles and they now sweep the hem
OIL the dress. Particularly with fox and