Burlington weekly free press. [volume] (Burlington, Vt.) 1866-1928, 1905-07-27
new YORK FASHION LETTER
various Modes for the Summer SEQ.
son-Neck scarfs-Exquisite Robes.


scarfs and cravats which take the place
Of winter furs, tic. scarfs and stoies and
little capcs Of chiffon mousseline. lace,
etc. but the tulle ruche in particular
has caught the Partisan fancy. It u
merely an extravagantly full ruche cf
tule worn close about the threat in pier
rot fashion and finished at the ends by
long hoops and ends Of ribbon, but It
Ia not an inexpensive trihe II bought at
a. good place and we'll made. for 1t re.
ouires surprising amount Of tulle.
Even II a woman can make it for her.
self. tho amount Of material required
brings the cost up to a considerable sum
ard the scanty PUSHES OF inferior tulle
sold cheaply are neither smart nor proc.
teal. for they are much more perishable
than the ruche Of better quality. The
freshness lies their chief charm. Many a
woman owns dozen Of these ruches,
matching various frocks ana hats. for
the ruche should be a part of the cos.
tumc with which II IL worn, but
fluffy white ruche will do duty with
many summer frocks and almost always
frames a face bccomingiy. scarfs Of
tulle, shirred and frilled and Of three
tunes. and scdrfs Of antique muslin EN-.
broidery are delightful Accomplishments
for thin summer frocks.
This antinquc muslin embroidery has
become a mania and every woman who
has a bit Of 1t IL pressing 1t into service
as trimming. Unfortunately tho idea Is
abused. as are most fads, and one sees
in evidence dirty worn pieces Of embroid-
s,1, srtS AAAs,
exquisite at ono time, are not worthy
of resurrection.
Antique linen Ia another OF the fades
but this does not like antique embroider.
cd muslin, actually mean old material
nor is the work upon II old work. II ono
has the old handspun linen, SO much the
better, but many OF the French models
in this material arc by no means old.
The linen selected must be as nearly as
possible like the old linen, thick. COARSE
firm but very even and soft. without
stiffening. Worked in English openwork
embroidery or in mixture Of plumetis
(satin stitch and openwork. this linen
is used for everything from frocks and
coats to plrasols and hats.
Exquisite robe patterns in the embroid.
cred dimes are offered at prices rea-
upon them. and now these prices are
dropping 10 the bargain point. More ex:
persivc. of course. are the frocks en-
hroidered to order and n compromise is
often effected by using the allover. by
the-yard embroidered linen combined
with embroidered motifs and trimmings
or with plain linens.
Take. for example. a charming French
frock OF allover linen embroidery OF tho
English type. The linen is absolutely
without stiffenins and the bodice front
is softly draped. the drapery being
caught UP on the left shoulder by a knot
Of deep strawberry velvet. A line OF In
set lace borders the left front. running
from shoulder to girdle. and inside it are
set buttons of strawberry velvet set in
gold rims. Short pun sleeves finish above
the elbow in close fitting cum OF lace
and fold of velvet. The full skirt has
a lace trimmed founcc. the frock is not
ornate in line and general effect, yet IL
lis dressy enough and smart enough for
any daytime social function.
Another pretty gown of which the same
may be said Is made with a long coat Of
allovcr embroidery or linen. trimmed in
plain linen. This coat is made in SAKE
blue. with a waistcoat of the plain blue
linen. and is worn over a skirt Of sheer
India linen.
The colored linens. especially in the
| new blues, crushed pinks and light yell
low tones. are much used by the Paris
ian makers. but on this side Of the water
| white and tho pale mastic and bisc nit
shades have the preference Openwork
| English embroidery frocks Of elaborate
4
| the smartcst models there is an interli,.
ing Of fine unstrened muslin. the effect
| being much better than that of tho linen
and silk in iuxtaposition. In bodice and
skirt costumes separate princesse slip
Of silk is often used and the muslin lin.
ing Is made with the embroidery outside.
| Gnipurc. Irish crochet and heavy en-
broidcry motifs are applied to plain linen
or to linen embroidered all over in single
cyelet holes and with these heavy trim
:nings lighter laces are often mingled.
A handsome frock of this description con-
sists OF a skirt. fitting closely over the
hips. with a front panel OF heavy inset
| ruipurc narrowing at the waist an:
widening slightly as II descends Around
the sides and back are set two shaped
hounce. each headed by a narrow line
VI S'HpuIc III tittuiIlB edTIinO OcSlEn,
These hounces lay so lose to the skirt
that the effect is almost that Of a double
skirt trimmed by lines OF lace, and the
nounces are much deeper in the back tina
where they start, at either Sde OF tho
front. so that the lines of lace curve up.
ward sharply toward the back. Heavy
lace is set into the tops Of the short
sleeves in tahbed cap fashion and form
the pointed yoke OF the blouse, while
below the yoke a line Of the narrow lace
Is set. Soft valencie mes may be used ia
soften the lines at throat and elbow, still
leaving the whole effect one OF elegant
severity or elaboration for removed from,
| fussincss.
A liner bolero and skirt plain in line
with heavy raised embroidery borders
and fine trailing raised and openworh
embroidery running from these border.
into the body Of skirt and coat. is "A use
FIJI and attractive costume and all sort.
Ut coat and skirt costumes in emhroidcr
cd linen are we'll liked provided they ar,
snartly made and have the necessar,
note OF elegance. Better frock of plall
linen than shoddy and prctcntious on
Of embroidered linen; but the embroider
cd linen gown at its best il the heigh
OF tho mod" for certain occasions.