davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09
The coNr osthe Sapphire.
From V,e Boston,H

1t Is said that among the hideous debris
found on the sAene Of the assassination of
the Grand Duke ser&jus was stone, per-
fectly black in<colos which is supposed to
be the large sapphire worn in ring by the
grand duke. The blAek hue is asserted to
be the effect of the chemicals used in the
bomb. -
Next to diamonds, sapphires are the hard
est stones known. and to- the unaided eye
no purer, truer hue exists than that of the
sapphire Being of the color of the sky, 1t
is regarded with awe by the superstitious,
but the most valuable stones are the color
of the corn flower. A visitor to the work.
shop of a Cairo jeweler, some time ago,
describes wooden bowl two-thirds full of
the finest sapphires which an old Persian
workman had been busy In detaching from
their settings.
The glory of these cleaning gems In the
rays Of brilliant light which found their
way into the interior of the vaulted place
was indescribable. They were not for SALE
but the property of the mother of the
khedive. the most powerful lady of the
realm. She wished to have all obtainable
sapphires set so that they might be fastened
as trimming upon her Jacket. They were
far more effective falling through the Per-
SLAMS slender yellow fingers as he swept
them together In the bowl.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09

words, it was cut to follow the outlines of
the body, but did so loosely. There were
two side seams down the back from Shout
der seams to the bottom of the coat, and
these were outlined by a three-quarter plat
or tuck running the length of each. There
was no girdle the coat being cut to fit in
at the waist line, but it was somewhat loose
in the front, where two reverS on each SIDE,
one over the other, heavily embroidered,
came nearly to the waist line; the round
collar was of brown fur. The plain coat
sleeves were finished by five-inch bands of
fur matching the collar. Her large picture
hat rolling up at the left side and trimmed
with sweeping ostrich plumes, was also
brown.
Mrs. Frederic Nelson. Mrs. Reginald Van
derbilts mother, is wearing a very smart
satin-ffnished black broadcloth coat and
skirt trimmed with fancy black silk braid.
The tight-ftting coat has plain skirts that
come almost to the knees. The back has a
seam down the center, and each side of this
seam are strips of the black silk braid
all the braid being inch wide. These
straps are a bit apart at the coilarless top,
but meet down the center and form sharp
point a little below the waist line. Two
more sea ms, one between each shoulder and
the middle back seams, extend down from
the shoulder seams to the hem of the coat
skirts and each is covered by band or
the braid; these seams taper in toward the
waist and then gradually out again. Short
strips of the braids-say, eight inches long
and ending in short pointS-extend from
the shoulder seams midway between the
center back seam and the full-length strips
The use of all these lengthWise strips, tap
ering in and then out is to give grace
full taper TO the figure. This coat has
pocket lids at the sides. also trimmed with
braid and the coat sleeves are braid TRIM
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09

the bridegroom Their gowns were pink
chiffon over white silk. The bodces had
little yokes of cream lace, from under which
the chiffon of the waist was gathered. The
sleeves had their short upper puffs Deco
rated each with cream lace two small
squares being inserted in the puff-top of
each sleeve. The sleeves were gathered
midway between elbows and shoulders, and
had pointed founces of pink chiffon and
lace falling from the elbows The flying
skirts were gathered at the waist line and
fell in scant folds to the floor, where they
swept out behind in short trains. The
skirts were shirred so that three full ruch-
ings showed, the upper one above the
knees, the second midway from the
knees to the floor, and the other some seven
finish at the bottom of the skirt. Two
inch insertions of cream lace were used
on the skirt, one just below the lowest
ruching and the other below the middle
one All carried large. loose clusters Of
pink carnations and ferns.
A spring costume of tan-colored chiffon
broadcloth is gathered slightly around the
hips and hangs in quite full folds. 1t clears
the ground an inch only, and has six
inch stiffened hem. and just above the top
of .his hem is fiat puff, some four inches
wide, of lighter cloth. This puff has half
inch ruches as edges, but these are in
Guided in the four-inch measurement given.
The deep girdle is of faille silk the color of
the cloth, and comes down an inch and a
half below the waist line by three above,
the silk being laid in scant folds on stiff,
shaped foundation. One end of the belt
slips through a buckle pin, and is then
fastened. The underblouse, considerable of
which shows, is of chiffon cloth the color
of the puff and is tucked and embroidered
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09

but the one who wants his clothes to pre-
serve their good appearance and wear for
the longest possible period of time" says
A H. Kent, clothing salesman, will
eschew rough finished fabrics
Make up two pieces of cloth of IDENTICAL
~ the same quality and cost, one rough
and the other smooth finished, subject
them to precisely the same amount of wear
and tear, and the smooth finished cloth
will be found in an excellent condition
when that of the rough surface is already
worn out and fit only for the rag bag.
What is the reason for this? Altogether
in the finish The rough goods must be
brushed oftener and more vigorously than
the smooth. because they catch dust more
readily, and this is harder to dislodge. The
frequent. severe application of the whisk
or brush soon wears out the goods and
their life in consequence Is hardly more
than half as long as the smooth surfaced
article.
1.-THE latter sheds dust and dirt partic-
ularly lint from towels. table cloths and
napkins, that the other would retain, and
whatever may adhere to it's surface can be
removed by Hight dpsting that affects the
durability of the goSds only in the very
smallest degree Ife smooth cloth also
presents bettfr al fect at all times, for
1t will never anpeaa quite as dirty under
exactly the same Editions as its rough
surfaced fellow. p II
''Yet rough fnishS cloth has the CALI
for popularity, and ngularly enough, lots
or men buy 1t Aeoet they think 1T wears
longer, and basa the belief on its social
ed protecting naps he very thing which
shortens its life
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09

med. The walking length skirt is also strap
ped with the braid.
Mrs. W. D. Sloane is also wearing a coat
and skirt of rich purplish blue medium
shade of chiffon broadcloth. The coat has
skirts that extend perhaps twenty-four
inches below the waist line. The center
section of the back is cut in one piece
and without center seams, but two seams
extend from the shoulders to the hem and
are concealed by strips of tufted SILK braid,
the color of the coat. This coat has pocket
lids and ra Their loose coat sleeves all trim
med with the tufted braid. The coat is
three-Quarters rather than tight fitting. The
skirt is trimmed near the bottom with two
bias fold sections of the cloth, one some
five inches deep and the other about four,
each Of these being headed with narrow
fold of the cloth. With this she wears a
hat to match.
Little Miss Sands is wearing a pill-box
cap in cream colored straw. the sides faced
with black velvet and a little cream white
broom set at the side near the front.
Mrs. Joseph Widener wore the other day
at luncheon a round hat tilted very much
over the face and down on the right, of
black chip Blue silk ribbon with hints Of
mauve was massed In choulike masses
| against the upturned side and back, and
| a bit of the ribbon started from the turned
| up Sides went around the crown-but at
! a little distance from it, resting on the
| brim-and was tied in a simple little bow
| at the right side near the front On the
| edge of the brim a cluster of four or five
| small, round, red roses was fastened
| The hats worn by the bridesmaids of
| Miss Helen Cutting when she married L. K.
| Wilmerding. jr., were very pretty. and of
| style not hitherto seen. They were mod
| eratey large and both crowns and brlms
! were oval In shape. The crowns were per-
haps two and a half inches high and the
| brims perhaps four inches wide. They were
| raised the least bit at the left by bandeaus
/ and were worn so that the brims projected
! out beyond the forehead. They were of
| fine pink chip and bands of rose-colored vel
vet exactly the color of the hats were ar
| ranged smoothly around the crowns. At the
| right of the front tiny oval empire wreaths
| formed of double rows OF the tiniest pink
| button roses were fastened fiat to the
| crowns, and each wreath slanting like q
! buckle toward the front At the left side
OF each hat were several pink ostrich
I feathers nodding toward the back and side.
| The bridesmaids included two little girls.
/ Ruth Cutting and Olivia Cutting, sister
| and cousin respectively of the bride. The
| eight grown-up bridesmaids included the
| Presidents daughter, Miss Alice Roosevelt;
| Miss Jessie Sloase, Miss Violet Cruger, Miss
| Muriel De4ano Robbins, Miss Elizabeth Cut
| ting. sister of the bride: Miss Caroline
Drayton, Miss Gwendolyn Burden and Miss
Caroline Wilmerdins. the latter sister OF
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09

NEW YORK, April I, 1908.
The most refined taste or the most outre
ina inatlon In the matter of Chapeaux may
easily be gratihed this spring. for greater
variety and latitude in every direction have
never been seen. One may go from the pill
box cap to the picture hat, one may wear
flowers or fruit or plumes. or ribbons alone,
or quilts and all in one shade or in a
medley of colors. and to match the cos
tunes or of totally different color. and yet
be smartIy hated.
The little. almost fiat, round sailors with
inch crowns and three-inch brims. tilted
far up at the left, with clusters of ostrich
tips affixed to the bandeau at that point.
the feathers fluifing out over the Coffure,
and the crown simply trimmed with a twist
Of velvet ribbon, are bing much worn
that they will soon disappear entirely from
latest. They were seen here in midwinter
on women who had just arrived from
abroad. but now they are no longer novelties.
The smarter form of these hats is to have
shaded ribbons crushed in masses of small
chous against the upturued side and a quill
or two run through some part of the brfm
or crown. In some instances flowers are
used with good effect.
II" small hat with rather low crowns and
brins irregularly turned up all around
knocked In here and there, and with wings,
feathers or flowers set on in the most I'M
expected places, are to the fore. and large
women no longer in their first youth seem
10 feel a particular affection for them al
though they strike one as homogeneous when
worn by woman who looks more than
twenty-five. 1t is not the fact of their be
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09

in different shades of brown. The short
Elton jacket comes barely to the top of the
girdle and is shirred around the top to q
fiat foundation of cream colored broadcloth
that rises above the dark cloth, and appears
in the front to form narrow vest. The tan
cloth shows at the top for an inch, and In
front for two inches on each side. 1t has
lines of fine brown Soutache braid around
the edges or, rather. the first line of braid
is its own width from the extreme edge,
and the second Is double its own width
from the first. A half dozen small dark
crochet buttons show on one side OF the
little vest, and the buttonholes on the other
are worked in dark silk. The jacket Is
also shirred all around the lower edge, the
folds between the top and bottom being
held in place over plain lining Where
the shirring of the edges begins at the neck
the jacket edges show a half-inch ruche of
the cloth extending out over the little vest,
and at the bottom, where the vest ends.
this ruche has widened to an inch. and 1t
continues to grow wide till a depth of an
inch and half is reached in the center
back Lighter cloth matching that on the
skirt forms a tiny, fiat puff graduated from
| three-quarters of an inch wide at the neck
| to an inch and quarter III the center
back; this puff extends all around the
| jacket. 1t is shirred close to both edges,
and the lower edge just covers the stirring
of the jacket. The upper sleeves are SIM
gle and rather scant pufrs from the shoulder
almost to the elbows, and q little nat pun
of light cloth like that on the body of the
| under seam on both sides and curves up to
| the shoulder seams, where they meet. Just
| above the elbows the sleeves are shirred,
and the shirring is concealed on each by an
| inch-wide puff of the light cloth. From this
shirring each sleeve has double ruffie
| three inches deep of the cloth that droops
| over the elbows. The lower sleeves are al
| most close fitting and are of golden tan
cloth matching the vest. At the wrists and
| also midway between elbows and wrists is
| strip of the brown cloth set on in ruch-
| ings plated through the center and firmly
| pressed in. Each of the two plaitings on
| each sleeve Is about two inches wide and
| flares a little at both top and bottom A
| fat collar of heavy yellow lace is set on
/ around the neck of the jacket just at the
| edge of the dark-brown cloth and conceals
| the insertion of the tan cloth neckpiece.
+, Tie collar Is fiat and circular one, and
| extends out to the tips Of the sleeves A
| large brown crinoline hat is worn with this;
| 1t is trimmed with a large, shaded brown
| ostrich plume thrust through the side of
| the upturned brim at the left, and large
plume Of brown bird of paradise feathers
+, follows the upturned brim. There are piait-
| iugs of brown tulle around the crown, and
a twist and bow of brown velvet ribbon.
| and blue satin crepe de chine--it has an
other name, but the above will fully convey
| the idea, whereas the technical name would
Apt-for ball gown to be worn at Newport
| during the coming season Is most simply
made. The bodice is one OF the deep pointed
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09

ing small or OF their being irregularly in
dented and trimmed that makes them map
proprlate for older women, but the com
bination of these things-a combination best
left 10 girls alone, for there are many equal
ly fashionable and much less trying shapes
that make the older women look younger
rather than older.
A word OF warning anent the "pill-boX'
chapeau These perfectly round and small
caps, with their stiff wings or dropping
tips, are essentially youthful, and the wom-
an who looks over twenty-five will do well
70 avoid them, for the contrast between
their jaunty and almost infantile shape
and face with even a suggestion Of a
lack Of freshness adds years instead of
taking them away. a woman of full fifty
years-at least she looked them-was walk
ing down the avenue in an all-black cos
tune topped by one of the pill-box hats
having black wings at the left near the
back. The effect was more than words
can describe
Topping round, rosy-cheeked faces. glossy
hair. bright eyes and the slender little
figure of girl of eighteen they are de-
lIghtful, but the girl OF eighteen seemingly
does not take to them; she likes the big
picture hat, better suited TO the woman
that the girl.
MIS-. NdHCGEDlll wears a sinai dAI-pAdNh
hat the foundation of straw and the trim
ming a cross between chous and bows OF
messaline ribbon-a lustrous. soft ribbon
The hat had a rounding point at the front
was turned up at both sides and high in
the back, but the back and sides curved
down toward the crown, and bows of black
ribbon were inserted.
Miss Gwendolyn Burden, soon to sail for
Europe with her parents, Mr.. and Mrs.
Townsend Burden, on the summer trip they
have now taken for several years, was
IN a brown cloth redingote costume that set
of her brown hair and eyes to perfection
The skirt was perfectly plain, and was
tight-fitting around the hips, except in the
center back, where 1t fared out little and
avoided a clinging or fat effect there. II
was undoubtedly stiffened around the bot
tom, for there was a gradual flare and
standing out from around the feet thai
plainly said crinoline. The skirt showed ar
entirely new cut. The sides and front and
the top OF the back were an apron pee
yokepiece, with the lower half of the front
and almost all OF the back cut from ar
enormous circle, and this last was set on
the yokepiece, and thus gave full fiarins
effect. The nap of the fine broadcloth rar
In an entirely different direction In tht
apron section from that in the attached
portion In the back the yoke or founda
ton portion was perhaps twelve inches
deep. and this sloped gracefully down Il
depth, say. OF thIrty-six inches In th'
front. The redingote fitted closely ye
loosely from the waist Line UP; In othel
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09

affairs. very deep, indeed. at the front. sus-
gesting Queen Bess. and Is Of folds Of the
silk drawn tightly but gracefully. over the
boned taffeta lining. There is no girdle.
folds Of white tulle over pale blue and
mauve chiffon finish the edges The front
shows stomacher effect, and shaded pale
blue and mauve or steel beads strung on
fine strings are woven across the front and
form diamond iattieework of openwork
diamond shapes. This panel stomacher IL
wide at the top. but tapers to sharp point,
and its outer edges are outlined by founces
of pale blue chiffon over pale mauve-she
edges embroidered In tiny seallops. These
hounees are three inches wide at the bot
until at the tops of the shoulders they are
ten inches deep, cover the shoulder curves.
and are draped to form sleeves. They are
so cut at the top as to form knitted bow
on each shoulder with a sharp point droop-
ing each way. The knotted portions and
ends are spangled in tiny mauve and blue
sequins, and similar spangles are scattered
sparingly over the ruffies. The rufiie curved
around the back follows the semi-cfrcular
opening. There is a similar panel on the
skirt. This skirt is gathered at the top so
as to fall in folds. and Is also gOred to give
additional width at the bottom. The panel
front-and, like that of the bodice it is of
the changeable silk, yelled with pale blue
and mauve chiffon-is narrow at the top
and wide at the bottom, and the ruffies on
the bodice appear to continue straight on
down each side of the bodice panel, being
eight inches wide at the bottom. The
strings of shaded beads are continued In
straight lines from the top Of the skirt two
thirds of the way to the knees, each being
an inch and half from the next; there
they end, but from the end of each another
strand is carried in latticework. forming
small VS. at the top and large ones at the
bottom as the panel wdens, and at their
ends-they stop perhaps ten inches from the
bottom of the skirt--are shaded lavender
and ma i've orchids done in shaded spangles,
sequins and raised chiffon. A ten-inch
f1ounce of the spangled chiffon crosses the
front of the panel. This could be copied In
a plain crepe de chine. and two shades or
chiffon and changeable ribbons could be
used for the latticework, simple knots ana
ends of ribbons taking the place of the
orchids. Lace might be more easily USED
for the founcings than the chirons, ana
would be far more durable and satisfactory.
A white organdy, Powered in pink, opening
over a pink silk panel yelled with white
chiffon, and having white lace ruffteS, moo
eled on this, would make girlish frock for
a debUtante.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09
The Important Toothbrush.
From the London Lancet.

From the LONDON Lancet.
Attention has been drawn lately to the in
sufficient food upon which many of the
children of the poor have to subsist and to
the impossibility of ill-nourished brains as
similating due amount of mental pab-
ulum. The food may in other instances be
sufficient, and the child yet may be unable
to thrive upon it. owing to defect in those
much-neglected organs, the teeth. An in
quiry carried out by Mr.. e. Rice Morgan
into the state of the teeth of children in
the Swansea educational area showed that
of 295 children of both sexes, only eleven
had mouths free from dental defects, while
on an average each child had more than
three decayed teeth. Such figures need no
comment. If we cannot, as Horace says,
permanently expel nature with pitchfork,
we may yet perhaps repel physical degen-
Grafton with tooth brush
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09
The Magnetic Woman.

From the Cleveland World.
Any woman who is perfectly healthy. per-
sistently cheerful, sanely self-confident and
enduringly feminine will possess plenty Of
magnetism. Add to these little beauty.
dash Of cleverness and knowledge of
how to dress and she will be irresistible.
At any rate, the cultivation of magnetism
Is a great deal more worth while than the
cultivation of a complexion.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09
The Evening Star Patterns.
A Dainty Apron for Miss Flyaway.

2S40-The term apron need not imply dark
Bingham and a corresponding unattractive-
ness. The little miss who rules your house,
hold may appear quite as charming and at
tractive in an apron as without one If that
article Of protection be in itself pretty. The
little apron shown here is attractive in
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09
A Bodice With the New Yoke,
Tucker,

2S49-Some enterprising modiste has res
cued the old-fashioned yoke tucker from
the oblivion in which it has SO long re-
manned, and few spring bodices are seen
without this feature. The accompanying
sketch shows a late design and one which
will be generally becoming.
Small tucks give fullness to the waist
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09

Uncle Rube-"So that patent medicine
Teller made you handsome offer?"
Uncle Si-"Great! If git cured, he puts
my picter In the advertising column; an II
I don't. In the obituary!'-Harper Bazaar.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09
MILLIONS USE CUTIcURA SOAP

Assisted by Cuta Ointment for preserving purifying and beau
flying the skim for cleansing the scalp of scales and dad
and the stopping of falling hair for soenng whitening soothing
red rough and hands, for baby ase cng changs
annoying tons and nfmmatons free offensive perspa
the form washes for Lucrative weaknesses many
tive ansec purposes which readily suggest themselves women
well as for all the purposes of the toilet BATH and nursery
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09
Fabrics That Wear Longest.

From the st. Louis Globe Democrat.
The man who wants to be economical
in the matter of wearing apparel-not the
one who is out to buy the cheapest goods,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09

with deep cuff form the sleeve. Developed
in brown foulard, which was daintily fig
ured in ecru, and combined with ecru lace
in the shape of chemisette and cuffs, this
was one of the most effective models seen
at a recent spring showing. If one desires.
both chemisette and cuffs may be omitted.
The material required for medium size is
21b yards SO inches wide.
Pattern No. 2Si9 is cut in 3 sizes, from II
to 16 years.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09
tie EXTERNAL AND INTERNAL TREATMENT FOR EVERY HUMoR ST

cudcura
itching
Mailed Skin
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09

sending
proper
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-04-09

style and easily made. White India lawn.
dimity or nainsook with dainty edging
and insertion of embroidery or lace will
develop 1t satisfactorily. For a medium
size 2as yards of 36-inch material are re-
quired.
Pattern No. 2s4O: sizes from 4 to II
years.