Daily capital journal. (Salem, Oregon) 1903-1919, 1905-03-11

anu ciouuS ana cnanHlnR Shlea anu
the crushing blasts" of March bring
in their wake the spring openings. But
less concern is felt than usual at this
season regarding tAe styles which the
great makers are so soon to launch, al
though it is usually in the spring that
the most marked departures in fash
ions are made. Little change is ex.
peeted. The present modes are stin
young and multitudinous variations of
them are still untried. There is little
doubt that the models that will indi.
cate the direction of fashions vane,
and which are already on the high seas
sailing for our port, will encourage the
continuance of the modified leg o. nut.
ton and the plain coat sleeves which
are the sleeve types of the day. Over
skirts in sensational guises may APP
pear, and the old.time basque pushing
girdle and blouse to the wall would
surprise no one. That skirts will con-
tinue full at the hem and close fitting
at the top there is no doubt. The prin-
eipal changes, if there be any worthy
so definite a term, will undoubtedly
be in trimmings and other minor de-
tails.
The tunic and the redingote are both
foreshadowings of the overskirt. Some
of their most snmptious effects have
been seen in the supple velvets which
have been marked features of the rich
winter costumes which ar passing.
A pretty costume seen recently, of
myrtle green velvet trimmed with EN-.
broidered cloth, showed the double
skirt effect in one of its most charming
shapes. The coat had its half-length
basque gathered TO the blouse. The
basque was full, giving the effect of Il
full skirt. Only thin, soft material,
it goes without saying, is suited to such
style. The blouse is crossed over,
surplice style, front and back, the sides
being bordered with the embroidered
cloth. Both V's are filed with heavy
lace. A whimsical girdle, widening at
the front and narrowing at the sides,
is of silk.
That silk is to be the material par
excellence Of the coming season every
sign prophesies. Counters are piled
thigh and running over with effects that
must have exhausted all resources The
latest silk to appear in the market is
more Grape than silk being as thin
and supple as the former and as glossy
and fat in weave as the latter. This
new silk comes in jacquard and printed
patterns. Foulard, always a standby
for the useful froek, will occupy a
humble place in the wardrobe next sum
mer if the dictatOrs of fashion have
their way. But the foulard man is
wary, and he is out with colors and
designs so attractive as to be irresist-
able. All those lovely greens and reds
and browns and blues, to say nothing
of soft neutral tones that the coming
months are to see launched in all their
wealth of beauty, are shown in the good
old foulard. And the sombre patterns
and Persian designs and brooches and
jacquard motives that are TO charac,
terize the frivolous modes to come are
all produced in them. OF course the
dots and rings and discs that are typi-
cal of this silk are all back on the
counters, but they are to be found In
novel and uncommonly attractive com
binatiOns.
As to taffeta, it's wane is not yet. The
fashionable silk has rich lustre and
few weaves give this TO better advan-
tage than the taffeta. The most ex-
pensive lengths are the softest; scarce
ly a whisper, 10 say nothing Of a rustic, |
is left. At $l.50 a yard there is a
beautiful quality of this silk, glossy |
and black as polished jet and soft and
supple as crepe
Evening gowns which were the first
to introduce the vogue of the draped |
or pointed belt are the first 10 abandon
it. just now there is a tendency in such |
toilets toward the pointed bodice or the
princess gown. The latter, indeed, is
bidding hard for leadership and has
already gained it in some quarters. Very
exclusive models have been seen in this
shape all the winter. But the style
is one that demands much OF fabric,
dressmaker and wearer. Rich silks and
velvets are the textures by right OF the
Princess As TO their build, only
dressmaker of ability can accomplish
anything like success in their cut and
ft And as 10 the wcarer, only the tall
woman Of fine proportions is well robed
in il. The princess eOnceals no defect
of maker or owner but with all the
qualifications no fashion was ever eapa-