The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1905-04-03
FOR OMEN READERS
Am UNUSUALLY SMART TAILOR COSTUME

MALE gray will be the predominant
ing color wherever there is a
gathering of smartly gowned
women. attired for the street or visit
ing. Such a long period has elapsed
since there was any marked vogue for
this modest shade that there seemed
little likelihood of its reinstatement.
Fashion called for rioting tints and
what Mace could anything so demure
as pearl gray hope to fill under the cir
cunstances? But fashion Is ever tickle.
80 it is far from surprising to learn
that the Quaker color is now about to
be sent forth into the world to again
play a rival part to the myriad gayer
colors the winter made smart.
The largest sphere in which grays
will rule is the outdoor one. Athletic
costumes and everything in the way of
sporting gowns viii be tinged with sill
yer if they make even the slightest at
tempt at being chic. The tones will
range from light to very dark and the
majority of open air exercise costumes
will show mixture instead of plain
shade. Tweeds are ever serviceable
and good style, but serge has again
rome into its own, and is built into the
most stunning short costumes that we
have set forth to tempt the fair. I'm
ported serges are expensive, but they
give such excellent satisfaction that ii
is marvellous to think they have es-
capped the dressmaker's eye for so long
one of the newest athletic costumes
In which the harmony of grays is to be
observed has a short plated skirt of an
invisible small plaid. There are broad
re h.,c Of
row side ones. The jaunty little coat Is
short and rounded at the fronts more
like tuxedo than a woman's garment.
This is made of pale gray serge and Is
stitched on the edges, is provided with
IL generous supply of pocket flaps and
possesses a set of mannish looking
notched revers. The only thing that
could possibly be worn under such a
coat and not spoil its whole effect is a
stiff linen collar and chemisette with a
Semi-f1tted vest of some contrasting
color, bright blue, scarlet or white.
But gray is not to be confined en-
tirely to this class of feminine costume.
Not at all, if one is to draw conclusions
from the number of orders already sent
in for handsome long skirted street and
visiting gowns. What would the fair
ideas in dress say to the following:
First, long graceful skirt arranged
over the hips in several we'll shaped
cores and f1aring modishly at the feet;
q simple surplice bodice crossing over
vest and stock of white guipure
striped with tiny frills of white chif-
fon; the surplice idea repeated in the
back SO that the vest continued down
In a point there also.
Around the arms and shoulders no
gathers or plaits broke the smoothness
of the surplice, but in the front toward
the waist the material arranged itself
into a few plaits held down by very
broad suede belt fitted with a large
square leather covered buckle The
edges of the surplice were bound with
@ fiat braid, and clusters of three tiny
ornamental straps tipped with small
silver buttons were grouped on each
side. At the bottom of the high stock
which was of guipure, appeared very
narrow craVat of cloth tied in stiff
knot at the throat.
At the elbow, where the gigot sleeves
terminated, the cloth section was sup
plemented by a long tight cuff of gui-
pure Wrinkled on the silk foundation
and buttoning closely to the wrist. The
top showed a narrow fril of lace eX-
tending around the arm. Here was the
only sign of fullness and even a slight
departure from the essence of simplic-
1ty in design, yet it dresses up the right
style of woman better than fussy
gowns do.
When woman becomes so enamored
of princess styles that nothing else
suits her taste. it is a complex problem
TO create something for her to wear on
the street. After serious study, how