Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-03-22
A SEA-GO|NG CHEF
What and How He Prepares
for Sick and Well.
NOURISHING DISHES
VALUABLE HINTS IN MAKING
SAUCES AND SALADS.
The Talent Lies in Knowing How
to Blend the Various
Flavors.
NOURISHING DISHES

| meals in smoking room or on deck are
| awaited with the interest which can be
understood only by those who suddenly find
themselves placed beyond the pale of daily
papers, telephone and kilograms.
The returned tourist is apt to hold the sea
air responsible for his abnormal appetite,
but in reality the chef and his large staff
of assistants spend about fifteen hours a
day aiding and abetting Neptune in coax
ing and whetting fastidious appetites. Cook
cry for sea-going tourists must be whole
| some and hearty, yet dainty. The fanciful-
| ly decorated Dishes Frenchy in appearance,
| veil the peculiar combinations of animal
| matter, particularly fats with lime, which
| are essential to the human system when
| subjected to the influences of the sea air
| and salt water For this reason the ocean
| going chef gives particular attention to his
| made dishes, his sauces and salads. Thus
| the sauce is not merely an appetizer, but
| carries almost as much nourishment as the
dish with which it is served To make it
| more palatable it is blended perfectly with
| the dish it dresses. For fish the foundation
| of the sauce is a fish stock; Tor meat a
| stock made from meat bones; for Vege-
| tables the white sauce is built on the water
| in which the vegetable is cooked. The
| American home cook is apt to look at the
| sauce as a thing apart from the dish with
| which it is served, thereby missing half its
| value as an appetizer. The following hints
| and recipes were gathered in an interview
| with E. Fahrenheim, chef of the steamship
Deutschland. and a man who has spent
| years catering to that most fastidious OF
| publcs, sea-going tourists.
| Care is Needed.
Infinite care is the most important in
| gredient in all well-blended cookery. Heed
| less seasoning will make a sauce or salad
| dressing taste fiat and raw. The mortar
| and pestle are as important in the kitchen
| as in the apothecary shop For instance,
| the stock used in sauces is made day
| or more in advance and Favored when
made not when added to the sauce. We
seldom use plain vinegar in our dressings,
| always preferring a richer article known as
| herb or tarragon vinegar, which blends more
naturally with other ingredients. Aspic, or
| rich stock, clarified and combined with gel
| atine, also plays large part in ocean cui-
| sine, and is rich in nutriment. Americans
| reserve aspic or calves foot jelly for in
valids when in reality it deserves a place on
| the family menu, and it is not at all difficult
to handle.
1--WE use shalots in preference to the large
| onion more commonly seen in America, and
| garlic rubbed the side of the bowl in
which the salad dressing is to be mixed will
| give just the right flavor when even a few
| drops of onion juice might be too strong.
1t is the many small, delicately blended
1
| flavorings which make cookery an art. In
mixing and dressing fish dishes we use what
| might be called fish butter. That is, we
| take the coral and spawn of boiled lob
| ster with tablespoonful of butter, crush it
| in a mortar and rub it through a sieve.
Crab or crawfsh may be treated the same
| way, and will impart delicious flavor when
| added to fish sauce.
| 1.-The stock to be used as foundation for
| meat sauces should cook not less than four
hours. For clear stock use beef shin.
| Cover with five quarts of water, bring TO
| boil, skim and simmer gently for three
| hours; then add your vegetable favoring,
| an onion or a shallot stuck with cloves,
| carrot sliced finely or cut into dice, few
| celery tops and a dash of pepper. When
| this has cooked an hour set away to cool
| When quite cold remove all fat from the top
! and you will find pale yellow jelly. If you
| want the stock to be delicate brown, first
| brown an onion or shallot in two table
| spoonfuls of sugar. When this mixture be-
J gins to smoke add your meat cut from the
| bone, shake or stir it until it browns ALSO
[ then add your bones and the water and
| cook above described
White Stock.
| IF you want white stock use veal or
| chicken instead of beef. For fish stock
| allow for each pound of fish one quart Of
| water, a shallot cut fine and a lunch of
| sweet herbs. Cook at least two hours very
gently and strain through fine sieve
| sauce ESpdSHOle Uicn, Drown sauce 10
be served with meats)-Add to pint and
| half of the clear meat stock given above
| one bay leaf a blade of mace and a sprig
| of parsley. Cook rapidly until reduced to a
| pint. Rub four tablespoonfuls of flour into
| four of butter, strain the stock and pour it
| over the butter and flour, and stir until the
| mixture boils. Add a teaspoonful of salt
and dash of pepper. and at the last a
| tablespoonful of gelatine which has been
! soaked in double the UIIdntitV of cold water
Sauce Bordelaise Ga delicious sauce when
| wine flavor is desred)-Cook half pint of
any good red wine with shallot or onion
/ and some kitchen herbs till 1t has boiled
| down to one-third its original bulk Then
| pour it into pint of sauce Espagnole and
| strain through a fine sieve or cloth. Add
| some minced shallots and small bit of
| beef marrow cut into tiny cubes and flavor
the whole with a dash of Madeira wine.
Sauce Genevoise Ga delicious accompani-
| ment for fish)-Cook red wine with fish
| bones, Shallots, carrots, tomatoes and laurel
leaves 0he latter be bought at any
| German delicatessen shop and are much
used by German cooks. When reduced
one-third mix with sauce Espagnole, strain
and beat up with craWfiSh butter prepared
in mortar.
Sauces combined with bread crumbs
make the numerous dishes au gratin SO
popular with tourists. standard sauce
for this use is Bechame1. Chop together
enough carrot and onion or shallot to make
two tablespoonful. Put one tablespoonful
| of butter in a saucepan, add the carrots ana
| onions, brown and add a tablespoonful of
-four. Rub smooth and add one-half cup of
chicken stock, and the same quantity of
milk. When it boils add dash of celery
| Seed salt and pepper and strain.
For caulifower au gratin. use half a
cup of the water in which the caulifower
was cooked instead of the milk. Arrange
the flowerets neatly in a gratin dish. dust
lightly with fine bread crumbs and cheese
and bake in a quick oven.
"Halibut Outlets dArtois-another popu-
lar dish in which is used sauce Bechamel.
Remove the bones and skin from slice of
halibut, cut 1t In the form of outlets and
simmer gently in white wine. When half
cooked lay the outlets side by side in a
gratin bowl, stick crabs claw into each
outlet and scatter bits of crab over tina
entire dish Pour over this sauce Bechamel
in which fish stock has been substituted for
milk, dust with cheese and bake in the
oven.
Italian Salad-a mixed salad. rich in nu-
triment. Cut equal parts of cold, lean veal,
carrots, celery, apples, artichokes, potatoes
. | nd of,in iutn a