The Saint Paul globe. (St. Paul, Minn.) 1896-1905, 1905-04-29
THE NEW ENGLISH SATIN BLOUSE
Copyright, 1905, by r. F. Ayers


% HOUGH the separate blouse is now
a trifie more difficult to detect be-
cause of the clever way in which
ii is made to appear part of the cos
tune. nevertheless it occupies one of
the most important places in every
smart woman's wardrobe. Now that
the season for lingerie waists has ar
rived they are more than ever in evil
dence. Some of the prettiest are ba-
uste figured in tiny Louis bouquets
with ribbons and in great Towering
| sprays tinted in colors which would
look startling on less sheer material.
They are too fresh and dainty not to
be bought UP at once. They are with
out lining, but are so thin and sheer
that either silk cover is worn under
meath or else very beautiful slip
which comes up high at the throat and
has sleeves at least to the elbows.
No matter what their style or mate
rial, there is seldom any other trim
ming than lace used, and entre-deux,
frillS and fancy applications are put on
In the greatest profusion. Some of the
newest yokeS reverse the order OF
things and are broader just over the
shoulders than in the front or back.
Here the bodice comes up in a point,
shoulders to form graceful lobes of lace
and embroidery.
When there is color in the batiste
il frequently happens that touches of it
are introduced in the trimming. For
instance, pretty lowered batiste
showing large pink roses was trimmed
with pink baby ribbon run in in1initesi-
NAL frills, which were put on in scrolls
with horizontal trend.
Pale blue English satin, a smart and
novel fabric used for more formal
gowns and waists, made the charming
little bodice shown here. While not ex-
actly belonging to the shirtwaist class,
the cut and style of ornamentation sug-
gest the tailor made. Down the center
in full length band extends a piece Of
lace with medallion design. This in
itself is q pretty and ample trimming
so that thanking it there are only tiny
borders of lace, fashioned of narrower
insertion to match, and then cluster
OF tuckS running from neck to belt.
AT the shoulders comes another group
much shorter, in fact. this ends at the
bust and provides that fullness neces-
sary to give a graceful blouse into the
belt. The pack is tucked rather simply
and the stock is fashioned of smaller
medallionS of lace running round and
trim little turnover of insertion and
edging Just before entering the tight
fitting deep cuff the satin puffed sleeve
is shirred three or four times parallel
with the inner arm seam, and then the
whole is gathered into the fancy cuff,
which is a combination of lace and
tuckS. Through the middle runs a hor-
iZontal strip of the medallion patterned
lace, while above it are five baby frills
of valenciennes edging, with an equal
number below coming to the wrist
Among the lingerie blouses about half
of them are provided with short sleeves,
but unfortunately every woman cannot
leave the lower part of her arm uncov-
cred. Hence the retention of the long,
tight, fancy cuff, which buttons with
tiny lace disks from the hand to the
elbow. The fashion of having the
blouse open in the back and fastened
under fly has lost none of it's pres
tige.
The draped girdle is too pretty and
becoming to give way to narrow tailor
ones when fancy blouses are worn AS
rule the girdle is carefully matched to
the blouse if it is not made of the same
material, and it comes up quite high
under the arms, or rather in the front
and toward the sides. In the back il
dWindleS to an inconspicuous belt occa-
sionally, or else it widens like the front
and is ornamented in some smart way.
When lowered silks can be secured to