davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Los Angeles herald., 1905-02-19

S far as general effect is con-
IN cerned, the handsomest ball
4 gowns seen this winter are the
spangled robes in their many and IN
finite varieties. While soft embrol-
dered chiffons and net gowns may be
exquisite in detail, this is really not
what counts in a crowd, and, say
what one will, the desire of all is to
be conspicuous, if in a perfectly legiti-
mate way by adhering always to good
taste. 1t Is comfort to every woman
to feel that her gown is quite the
handsomest present, and in these days,
when good form is studied hand in
hand with individuality, it is not diff
cult to have each and every gown
conspicuous for it's effectiveness as
we'll as for the perfect harmony of it's
coloring and for the exquisite good
taste and style.
The spangled gowns worn this win
ter would certainly put to shame the
creations of two years ago, so beauti-
fully are they fashioned and so radi-
ant are the colors. 1t has been dis
covered that far better effect can
be obtained by placing the robes over
lining to match the pailettes as gold
spangles over deep yellow chiffon or
deep electric blue with an underslip
of the same shade. No matter what
the color of the palette this shade
must be borne out in all the materials
employed. Silver spangles, however,
may be placed over almost any shade,
and, provided that there be a sufficient
number of the paillettes, the gown will
surely be effective.
There are so many dark shades
which the brilliancy of the spangles
make permissible in the evening that
in these gowns is given a splendid
opportunity for every woman to add
greatly to the variety of her outfit.
In no other material do shades of dark
blue or deep sea green seem appro-
pirate, and then the so-called bur-
nished gold or brown is effective only
in glittering spangles, Then there are
the net robes deliberately embroidered
with velvet ribbon in some large and
definite design with spangles of the
same color scattered broadcast over
the robe. In lavender, purple, deep
turquoise blue or the palest of rose
pink the gown is sure to be handsome.
White net embroidered with electric
blue spangles was at one time ex-
tremely popular, but now these
spangles must be upon net of the same
tone, and all the textures used in the
construction of the costume must be on
the bright electric blue. barring only
the cream white lace at the neck and
sleeves.
Apparently the great ambition of all
modistes is to have on the one gown
Just as many paillettes as possible, and
many of the newest models more
closely resemble fish scales than any
thing else, One gown. which, though
fabulous in price, 1t must be confessed
was exceedingly ugly, is made up this
Los Angeles herald., 1905-02-19
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stress to make up the gown satisfac-
torily and at about a third the price
that would be asked for 1t at any of
the large dressmaking establishments
Rather an odd style that is coming
| into fashion is seen on the net gowns
that are spangled with jet and that are
/ trimmed as well with applique of
heavy white lace. This is something
like the fashion of year or two ago,
when on the black chiffon and satin
gowns that were spangled with polka
dots of gold or silver there was used
the applique of point lace. The lace
| now fashionable Is much heavier and
the gowns themselves are not so hand
some but all the same, the fashion is
effective and new-certainly two points
to recommend it to general favor.
Rather newer and handsomer is the
combining of spangles and lace on the
satin gowns of the winter, and the
| fashion is to be again repeated in the
models for spring and summer, with
| the quality of the satin lighter and
more lace used and fewer spangles.
The first cost of these gowns seems
appalling, but it must be remembered
that the handsomest are all made by
hand, and while the lace is not always
real it is of some expensive imitation,
| and in order to entitle the gown to first
rank among the expensive styles the
design of the embroidery and lace must
be more or less original, not the stereo-
typed patterns that have been in favor
for several seasons. 1t is indeed re-
| markable what diversity of style
| there can be when it is remembered
that just the same ingredients. so to
speak, are used-satin, lace and
spangles.
White satin gowns made with en-
broidery or applique of lace and
spangles have been the smartest of all
during the winter, but among the new
est fashions there are some charming
models on the same lines but made up
in colors, pale yellow, pink and blue
and gray, all most attractive and
effective The pale blue and pink are
in exquisite shades, and either gold or
silver spangles are used, or the rhine
stone spangles that have been so fash
ionable for the last few months. When
Los Angeles herald., 1905-02-19
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Branch establishments of the royal
school exist in Agya, Aeglna, Volo,
Corinth and Koropi, the Aegina school
making a speciality of Venetian point
lace.
Nine. Catherine makes a European
tour every year to acquaint herself
with the newest designs, and certainly
soma Of those exhibited are most ex-
quisite and we'll calculated to excite
the admiration of French and Amerl-
can connoisseurs.
Two cushion covers, which are illus
trated, were worked from original de-
signs in the Byzantine style, which
are due to the inventive art of Prince
Nicholas himself. The latter by the
way, is an artist to his finger tips, and
has engaged in many branches of art
with great success, being at once a
painter, a designer and a dramatic
author.
Los Angeles herald., 1905-02-19

on the cuffs to match. CUFFS IL hardly
the word TO use for the finish Of
sleeve which is so wide. The ivory
white and champaign color are both
becoming and are made up in circular
capes, in double capes, I'm long coats,
with deep shoulder capes and IN new
pointed cape effects that are among
the novelties this year. Until really
warm weather sets in the evening
wraps trimmed with ruffes Of lace
and narrow bands Of sable will be
worn, for just the little touch Of fur
does not make the garment look out Of
date, and the heavy Partisan em-
broideries that are now to be had In
such beautiful colorings will then re-
place the fur and lace combined.
A very attractive feature Of the more
expensive evening wrap is found in its
light weight, for II is a mistake TO buy
a coat of too heavy a weight Of cloth
and then trust to the weight for
warmth. The most expensive of cloths
are light, but so closely woven as to be
warm, and then the inner lining and
the cloth makes the garment delight
full to wear. mis- when fur is not used,
and of course IL is not possible or
practical to wear fur-lined garment
late i'm the season. There will be seen
this year two quite distinct styles OF
cloth coats and wraps. one elaborate
in design with heavy braiding and
bands of lace applique and cut work,
the other without any trimming what
ever but the bands OF Persian embroid-
cry or the velvet collar. The cost of
the two will be nearly the same, for as
rule the palmer garment will have
to be made to order, and, like all
plain fashions which border on the Sc
we're, will require q perfection Of cut
and fit that in the more elaborate
order can easily be hidden under the
embroiderles and trimming. However,
both styles will be fashionable, and, in
fact, there are many different models
Suffolk holds the record of containing
two towns with more public houses in
proportion to their size than anywhere
in England-viz Bungay, one to nine
t.- 20 al
Los Angeles herald., 1905-02-19
INcEss ELLEN vLADIMIRov-

~ RINCESS ELLEN VLADIMIROV-
MA, wife of Prince Nicholas of
the Hellenes, is the president of
the Royal School of Embroidery of
Athens.
The school is situated in Michael
Boda street, large avenue planted
with trees in the new quarter OF
Athens, and is not far from the Thea
ter Royal. 1t was originally founded
by Lady Egerton, wife of the former
British minister in Athens, and also
by Nine. Catherine, who Is now one
of the mistresses in charge of the es-
tablishment.
About 200 young girls work every
day in the Athens royal school, but
there are hundreds of others engaged
in lace-making and embroidery in
every part of Greece whose industry is
directed and put upon the market by
this very praiseworthy institution
Los Angeles herald., 1905-02-19

+ winter of. iridescent spangles, the tulle
so completely covered as to be quite
| invisible, and the gown absolutely
plain and made princess style softened
| by a deep vest of lace or chiffon in
front. The effect is not too severe, but
| the spangles sewed so close together as
to overlap gives hard lines to the rest
of the gown.
The very smartest and most attrac-
tive of the spangled gowns of the win
ter and those intended for spring and
summer permit much more of the tulle
or net to show, and the waist finished
around the shoulders with ruffles of
net embroidered with the spangles is
much more becoming than when the
spangles were put on too thick and
close On white ground spangles or
paillettes or iridescent blue are ex-
tremely effective, whether the gown is
made up over white or blue, and in
fact it is hard to find any blue lining
that matches we'll or contrasts with
the color of the palette. The only
color that seems to be lacking in these
spangles this year is red. There are
only a few to be seen in pale pink,
while blue, yellow, orange, bronze
green, gold and silver are all in de-
mand, and the red has not as yet been
received with any favor. This prob
ably Is because of the strong contrast
if the foundation of the dress is white
net and the paillettes or spangles are
in red. The only exception Is the red
tulle, on which are the paillettes of the
same shade, and as yet there have
not been any good shades in red to
choose from.
Among the most useful gowns that
can ever be included in an outfit are
the spangled gowns of black or white.
A gown of black net of tulle spangled
with silver or gold, with jet and steel,
or with jet alone, can do duty for so
many different occasions that it is as
useful as was in olden times the black
silk gown, without which no lady con-
sidered herself properly provided for.
When economy has to be consulted
(and for other reasons besides) two
waists are a good investment, one high
and one low. In these days, when such
elaborate dressing is rule for thea
ters and restaurants, the spangled
dress is a great convenience, and the
high waist makes it possible for such
purposes, while the low waist is cor
rect for dinners and dances. The all
one color spangled gown, like the gray
chiffon with spangles, is newer and
consequently smarter than the black,
but none the less does the black al
ways hold its own in popularity
The Tulle Gown
A net of tulle spangled with jet is
certainly not a new fashion, and, judg-
ing from the low prices asked for many
of these gowns in the shops. they are
no longer very desirable, but like
many other fashions they are so inn
portant as never to go out of style
completely They are always good in
Los Angeles herald., 1905-02-19
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and the foundation is good, the gown
will wear for much longer time than
is often desired. The great advantage
of the pattern gowns at this time of
year is that they require compare
lively little dressmaking to make them
possible, for if there be good lining
that is well cut and well fitted it is
perfectly possible for a good seam
Los Angeles herald., 1905-02-19

vestments, although be it understood
that in the cheaper qualities the low
prices asked are Il delusion and a
snare, for the poorest kind of machine
work on very cheap quality of net
means that the first hard wear the
gown receives it will be in tatters.
whereas among the more expensive
ones, where the work is done by hand
Los Angeles herald., 1905-02-19
Spring Wraps of CoIored Cloth

The cloth wraps this winter and this
spring for already the evening wraps
of spring are being made up) are in a
great variety of colorings. There are
not as many black ones seen as last
year, but the few that are are ex-
tremey smart; they are loose, but
not shapeless, have broad cuffs and
collars and fronts faced with white or
bright color, while one charming
model is trimmed with a broad stole
of heavy lace applique over black
panne velvet, and there are also bands
Los Angeles herald., 1905-02-19

the gown of blue or pink satin has a
great deal of the lace work on it, the
satin is cut away underneath to give a
lighter effect, but the lining Of the
gown Is of exactly the same shade as
the satin and the dropslxirt of chiffon
is also Of the same light color. This is
to give a lighter effect, and to make it
different from the heavier gowns of
the winter, where the embroidery was
always on the satin itself. All gowns
of this description are made with skirt
long, and this in spite of the fact that
1t is becoming more and more fashion
able to have short frocks to dance in,
but this year, at least, or this season,
to speak more correctly, spangled
frocks will still have trains. 1t is just
as well, for short skirt with an elab-
crate high waist made of spangled ma
terial would at once show 1t was in
tended to be worn on two occasions,
and that is one of the open secrets
which must never be prominently
flaunted before the public.
Evening wraps are always attractive
and this winter have seemed especi-
ally So. There never was time when
fur wraps of all kinds were so superb
and so costly. A long, loose wrap or
cloak of sable was even few years
| ago so rarely seen as to make it's
wearer conspicuous as the possessor Of
a garment of much wealth. Now fash
| ion simply gives out the order that
sable wraps are in fashion, and
straightaway these gorgeous garments
are purchased. There are, however,
a great many people who have the
means to be well dressed but not the
fortunes that enable them to wear
sables, so fashion very sensibly or
dains that the sable is not the only
evening wrap, but that there are many
attractive garments in brocade, satin,
velvet, lace and cloth that can be ac-
complished without the expenditure of
a small fortune.
Los Angeles herald., 1905-02-19

Suffolk holds the record of containing
two towns with more public houses in
proportion to their size than anywhere
in England-viz.. Bungay, one to nine
ty-two people; and Eye, one to eighty
eauen
The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-06-03
BENEFAcT1oNs TO COLLEGES.

After all, the principal use of the college is as place where the next generation is to get right ideas of what is worth while in life itself. The mere facts which to the ignorant seem the advantages of education or of minor importance. We hear in the periods of college ccmmencements of the ne- cessities of the modern university in the way of enlarged endowments and increased equipment. Some of this talk is, of course, reasonable enough. It is addressed mainly to the rich as 8 demand for the recognition by them of duty of generosity, one which in our days has had a most remarkable response. But apparatus is an inn possible substitute for ideals and the best endowment of a college is the character of it's graduates. The 5000 bequest, for example, to his alma ma. ter, which the will of the late William H. Baldwin contained, was small if considered as g. mere matter of money, but his character and the ideals of public service which his life expressed form part of that permanent endow- ment which alone makes a university great. The memory of railroad president ready to sacrifice, if need be, his position, rather than lose an op- pcrtunity for usefulness on an unpaid ccmEaittee of citizens banded together for important civic service, is a rarer and more precious contribution to the fiber of university life than any mere material bounty from ravenous fingers unclutched by hypocrisy or the fear of death.-Atlantic Monthly.
The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-06-03
Local Weather Report.
Brief Mention.
New Haven. June 2.

IliSu 8WetlGr tU-udys L1SIu d. IIls
 St. Nicholas Magazine for June at the Pease, Lewis company's; also the Illus trated Sporting News.
 The Consolidated railroad has renum- bered all of the locomotives in such a way as to indicate the class and capac- ity of the engine in every case.
 Mrs. Francis T. Brown, of S4 Trunl- bull street, addressed the University club of Middletown last evening on Tact and Fun from Far Cathay.''
 Hon. F. w. Orr has been asked to be the speaker of the evening at the mem- orial exercises in City Mission house to- morrow evening and has accepted the invitation.
 The graduation exercises at the State Normal School for Teachers will be held at the school on June 2S. No pro- gramme for the event has yet been ar ranged.
 Rev. T. s. Dewitt, of Branford, is in Boston and tomorrow will be the guest of Rev. Thomas Bickford, of Stoughton, and he will occupy Mr. Bickford's pull pit. -.. ..
 Mrs. Henry Hale, of PIP Orchard street, who has been spending the win- ter and spring with her daughter, Mrs. Charles A. Crockett, of Kansas City, Mo, will return to her home to-day. Mir. and Mrs. Crockett will sail from New York on the steamship Princess Irene and will spend the summer on the continent.
The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-06-03
FINE HORSES,
At Ringling Brothers Circus.


 Lovers of fine horses will have much to please them when Ringing Brothers massive shows come to this city next week, Connected with the show is a horse fair that contains every type of the animal that contributes more large ly to mans luxuries and business needs than any other.
 The. man who doesn't love a good horse is usually classed with the man who would abuse a dog. The trainer of horses will tell you that few of all the men who admire fine horseffesh have anything like 8 proper apprecia- tion of his capabilities and the extent to which he may be educated. The trainer will add that the educated thor oughbred likes applause and adulation, that he is vain and likewise sensitive. Lay 8 whip over the back of a thor oughbred and after his death if his hide is tanned a great big flaw will be found in it where the whip landed,
 1t is in the circus that most honor is paid to the educated equine. There are six hundred and seventy-five horses in
 
 cry type from the Norman draught and the Percheron to the ring performers. Some of the things which the ring anil mals are taught to do are amazing. One of the circus acts consists of horse ballet. It is performed by eight white, eight black and eight cream colored animals. Only the leading horse is guided, the rider holding garlands stretched from one to the other. The horses dance in and out of these gar- lands, tangling and distangling them with great dexterity. In training these horses for this act some of them knew what was wanted of them inside of a month, but it was four months time be- fore they were all psrfect in it, the dance.
 A horse brought up in the country will shy at a hurdy-gurdy, but it is a fact that the same horse can be brought to a state in which he will
The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-06-03
Saturday, June 8, 1905.
NEW ADVERTISEMENTS TO-DAY.

musement-Ringling Bros. Circus. Atterbury System ClOthes--Lambert Aliens Foot Psychologists. BasebaIi-Savin Rock Grounds. Blue Serge Suits-Meigs & Co. Boys Day-J. Johnson & Sons. Butter-Dillon & Douglass. ] California-Southern Pacific R. K, Cut GIass-The Ford Co.
 raperies-Window Shade Co. Dresses-Wm. Frank & Co.
 Est. c. E. Lancraft-Probate Notice. Est. T. F. Dickerman-Probate Notice Financial--Afackay Sc Co. sGifts-At Monson's. Gifts For Brides-Durant. Hammocks-The J. F. Bassett & Co. Loans-Lomas & Nettleton.,
 Mathushek Pianos-Treat & Shepard Neckwear-The Chas. Monson Co. Open for Season-The White City. Postum-At Grocers'.
 Report-The Union Trust Co. sRfbbons-Howe & Stetson Co.
 ShirtWaist Suits-Giamble-D Desmond. Serge Suits-The Hirsh Stores. Surprises-The Edw. Malley Co. -Hamburg-Am. Line.
 Trips-Hamburg Am. Line.
The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-06-03

like music. Black Beauty, a handsome thoroughbred with the Ringing Broth CTS circus, dances the. two-step in per feet time. Another animal hitched to stylish wagonette driven by a woman hears the music of the dance which comes from Egypt and immediately goes through it's motions. 4.
 The record for loading the six hun dred and seventy-five horses in the cir GUS on the cars is twenty-eight min i utes. This is a marvellous performance and is only possible through the fact that the horses knew what was expect ed of them. The animals do not like the cars, but they know that they have to go into them. When 1t comes time for unloading in the morning they will sly ly try to edge and crowd past one an- other. On the show grounds the horses fill three immense. tents and they are well worth viewing.
The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-06-03

DISTRICT OF NEW HAVEN, ss. Pro-
 bate Court. June 1, 1905. Estate of Katherine McGibney, late of
 New Haven in said District, deceas-
 ed. a ~,
 The Administrators c. t. a., having ex- hibfted his administration account with said estate to this Court for allowance. ! 1t is
 1905, at ten o'clock in the forenoon, at d Court of Probate to be held in New Haven, in said District, be and the same is appointed for a hearing on the allow < ance Of said account, and this Court di- rects that notice of the time and place of said hearing be given by publishing this order three times in some news paper having circulation in said Dis-
 LIVINGSTON W. CLEAvELAND,
 i2 St Judge.
The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-06-03

country will come into new life. The at titude Of tlie present dynasty of China counts for little. The rulers have prac- tieafly no control over the acts of in diEiduals. especially in the far pro- yinces of the empire. If the Chinese of
 the south see the Manchurians pros pering under the new condition they will join the procession. All that We of Japan can do is to give good advice and to see to it as far as possible that conditions are kept free and favorable If the experiment fails. the Chinese empire is lost. It is her one chance, and if she fails to use it, it will probably never come again"
The daily morning journal and courier., 1905-06-03

chants that here is a lesson they will do well to initiate. the whole eighteen provinces may yet be opened up. It is a gigantic experiment that We are taking upon our hands. The Chinese of the southern provinces must learn by the experience Of the Manchurians. believe that they are ready for the lesson. As merchants they are astute quick to seize upon every chance ad- vantage, ready to learn what outsiders may have to teach them.
 Tn addition to that the Chinese of ManchGria and of the northe- pro- Einces generally have learned a bitter lesson from Russia in the last seven years. They have been cruelty treated and despoiled of their property. Under the mild and civilizing rule that will follow a conclusion of the war, the