The Republican journal., 1905-12-14
What To Eat In Argentina.
Visit to the Markets of Buenos Ayres.
Queer Tropical Luxuries, some Absurdly
Cheap, Others Soaring to the Other En-
.rauss of SkH.Hiqh Prices

Cheap, Others Soaring to the Other En-
tremes of Sky High Prices.
special Correspondence of The Journal
BUENos AYRES, Nov. 4, 1905. One
/ our favOrite amuSements in these
avs of waiting is to visit the market
aces of Buenos AyreS at four O'Clock
u the morning. The seasons are revers.
4. you know, on this side of the eQua-
or and now is the early summer time
7 this latitude, when all the local world
, astlr at the first peep of dawn. The
1sutferable heat of unventilated sleep
y apartments, to say nothing of
p0unding vermin of every description,
axe sleep impossible after daybreak
ld the outer air of early morning like
aim. The numerous parks, too, are
their lovellest before sunrise, the
3Wers more fragrant, the grass and fol-
I-e greener from the dews of night.
The Nercados market places all is
and hustle as early as three o'clock
the morning. An hour later 1t is
b difficulty we can thread our way
ong the bareheaded housewives.
zom cooks and black eyed maid ser
NIL caps, gauchas in gaily striped pom
IS and leather leggings waddling
at with an absurd air of dignity
-4 the seats of their trousers dragging
lost to the ground-a molly but
-'l-natured throng of buyers and sell
and strollerS, elbowing from stall
tai and yehemently haggling in soft
relied Castiiian.
ne markets of BuenoS AyreS make
pretentlOn to beauty of architecture,
TO wholesome cleanliness. nor have
" the plcturesquenes of the mar
S OF Brazil. Peru and Chill. The
King feature here is that of over
Nlng abundance-aS if Ceres. Pomo-
aud all,the rest of the goddesses had
klessly upset their horns of plenty.
= hucksters and salewomen are al
Il buried amid the profusion of their
reS, IN wide contract to the pitifully
gel stores of the confraternity in
i South American towns. Here
vegetables by the cord, meat by the
fruit by the train load, eggs by the
Non. During the peach season you
Id till house OF ordinary size with
Il luscious fruit from the Mercado
ltral of Buenos Ayreswithout percep-
y diminishing the quantity exposed
sale. The entire yield of an orchard,
al island, is dumped on the stones in
oSsal heap. where it stares you in
r face with triumphant air as who
id say: Match me if you can in any
= r. country In some of the fruit is
Ids of the Rio de la Plata have seen
IS of ground covered to the depth of
-Il1
ing and wasting, while waiting for
insportation 20 market. or because
supply is too great for the demand.
d such peaches. Such pears too, are
to be found outside of California.
apes from the vineyards of Mendo-
. md San Juan are equal to any grown
France or Spain: and figs, melons
i oranges attain perfection in wild
udance.
Jere are apples-but Northerner
nd never recognize the tastelesS
I. Strawberries are few, small and
,oTless; currants, raspberries and
a.-ar small fruit do not thrive we'll in
sod of Argentina. 1t is the prices
everything that astOnish you. For
value of United States dime YOU
. buy enough vegetables to last
~ family a week: excellent beef at
cents a pound: a whole sheep for
MY five cents; pair of plump tur-
$ for dollar. Pumpkins, big as
.oons. are cut up with carpenters
and retalled at one or two cents
Kllo. asparagus, spinach and similar
umodltleS sell for next to nothing at
IN tins country people eat pump
AS others do potatoes, and it is
mon saying that when foreigner
ANS to like pumpkin, and to smoke
cigarette in native fashion, he
laturaliZed and will never leave At
tuna
The Independence of these stall-keep-
must be aggravating to purchasers.
ne of them seem to care a rap
ether you buy of them or not, but the
fcher, the baker, the green grocer,
fish mOnger and all the rest of them
. as if they were comforting a favor
permitting you to buy of them,
syher than receiving any benefit them
e. ves. Nothing has fixed price, and
srythlng must be haggled for.
-qWded as every trade seems to be,
re is no competition, nor cutting
.l article purchased at one stall for
lar, may be sold at the next booth
- twice that much, or for one-third of
and it is the same way in the
,hionable part of town. There is no
'andard of value; the trades people
mply get what they can. Neither is
IRE ever any attempt to make a
nrable showing of articles tor sale;
erything is just heaped up and dis
ed of as quickly as possible. There
.- many queer things in the line of
DDS. The sausage stalls, for example,
len are extensively patronized by
4e blue bIouses and red skull-caps.
e entire sausage family-big and
tie, fiat, round, long and short, black,
rl, blue and smallpocked, stuffed into
Ems, done up in lead paper or piled in
.uetious heaps-fll the place from
"or to ceiling. And then the cheese
falls-Fueserios pronounced kay
ay-re-ahs), GRAINED with cheeses of all
orts and sizes, shapes, colors and con-
lions, but every bit of it with sour
Mell and taste of rancid buttermilk.
iost of the butter is made after the
God old plan of putting the cream in
o tin cans that are shaped like invert-
I'd sugar loaves, and sending it to town
Nd horseback, to be turned into butter
n route by jolting And why not--as
sell as to slap it around with a wooden
asher until the same result is obtain
FINN = 81