Los Angeles herald., 1905-06-04

ITCH a craze as now exists for linen
gowns was surely never before
known, and the great wonder IS
how many entirely different sorts and
kinds have been created until the word
linen is applied to hundreds of different
weaves of the flax.
The fashion started some two or
three seasons ago. In fact linen gowns
have never been quite out of date, and
tailor gowns of linen have always been
considered smart, but the very eXpen-
sive and elaborate gowns introduced
two summers ago, and which now are
in such demand, are not to be con-
fused Herewith.
When the practice of using lace and
embroidery on linen began it was
fad, nothing more, put forward, as II
were, tentatively in order to test popu-
lar opinion. The gowns were as rule
unlined, and, as linen is conceded to be
the coolest of fabrics, when an eXcep-
tionally cool summer was forthcoming
the fashion hung fire. Then came the
craze for wearing the thinnest of lin
gerie waists in winter, and, presto
no further thought was given as to
whether it was to be a cool or hot
summer-thin, cool gowns must be
worn. The only possible yielding to
comfort is to be seen in the coat. short
or long, that is now part of the cos
TUE, whether the waist be of linen to
match the skirt or on the lingerie order
Many, in fact most, of the elaborate
styles of linen costumes are extremely
expensive. The work on them is of the
most expensive order; often real lace is
used, and, if not the real, then some
high priced imitation. There can be no
stinting of material. Yards and yards
of lace, If hand embroidery is used.
then Just as much of it as possible so
that in fact there is little plain material
to be seen. Even the uninitiated indi-
vidual can discern at glance that the
gown is necessarily a costly one. Irish
lace used with linen is most effective,
and the loose fitting coats with the
band of Irish lace entredeuX are most
attractive The renaissance lace is also
used. The bands of lace entredeux on
the skirt are either in long lines or put
around the skirt just above the hem.
The coats differ in style. There are
the loose half fitting, the fitted long
ones, short fitted, close fitting Etons,
length and any number of short box
coats and bolero jackets all of which
afford any amount of opportunities for
the use of much lace and embroidery
On both heavy and lightweight linen
there is an immense quantity of fine
hand work, the eyelet holes and the old
English embroidery patterns being If
possible the most fashionable for the
heavy linens. On the handkerchief
linens and all those of light weight or
fine texture the rather heavier embroid-
cry is used, with medallions and entire
deux of the finest limitations Jr real
lace, valenciennes for the moment being
in great it may be said greatest, de-
mand, although q very fine quality of
guipure is thought very smart.
Bargains in Embroidered Gowns
Most remarkable bargains in the en-
broidered linen gown-or robes, as they
are called-are now to be found in all
the leading shops. These are beautiful
specimens of hand work and marvel
Gus samples of fine work done by ma
chine There are open work and solid
designs as we'll, and the quality of the
embroidery even more than the linen
itself is what determines the price.
AS a rule the style is much the same
for ALL the waist on the shirt waist
order with embroidery in front and on
at the sides, around the hem and on
the sleeves
In the lighter weight linens and linen
batistes are to be found the embroidered
hounces, the faring skirts fairly COW
cred with embroidery in some graceful
fiouncing design and with a waist that