The San Francisco call., 1905-02-26
BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT.

BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT.
Three orders for street gowns were
flashed by cable into the workrooms
Of Paris the other day. They were
from Fraulein Bertha Krupp. from
Wilhelnina, Queen of Holland, and
from the Princess Cantacuzene, niece
Of Mrs. Potter Palmer. So three
women, German. Holland and Ameri-
can. are to have spring walking suits
and all three will bear the trademark
OF Paris
Among the handsome actresses who
have sent in their orders are Mrs.
William Faversham, Miss Maude Ad-
ans, who is as dressy as she is pc
tite; Madame Rejene, the tEagedienne;
Mrs. Patrick Campbell and Madame
Sarah Bernhard The last, by the
way. is the despair of her dressmak-
ers. for she is very difficult 20 please,
and she always wants something new
and entirely different: Il must be dis
tinctive and original she says.
The street suits which are being
turned out from the Paris workFooms
are handsome. but il can trutffully
be said, even after a study of their
best points, that they are no better
than those Of homemade They are
not as neat as the English tailor
made suits, nor as elegant as the
American tailored garment. True.
they are chic. But chicness is a quail
ity which is fast being acquired here.
One of the prettiest of the spring
styles is the coat and skirt style This
is immensely popular and what is bet
ter grows more and more so. II is
very convenient to purchase a little
coat and skirt and more than con-
venient 10 wear the suit with pretty
shirtwaist underneath.
For spring" said a modiste, II look
forward to the coat and skirt idea al
most exclusively. True. t--,re is a great
deal Of talk abou. the old-fashioned
basque and the bodice. But / look for
a Renaissance of the two-piece suit.
the coat and the skirt. And 1 am sure
that il VIII be twice as popular as
ever.
.'Two-piece suits in mustard brown
are smart. for they give one a chance
20 use so many handsome trimmings.
One can use strappings of cardinal
upon mustard brown and can trim the
coat with bands OF passementerie.
Brown goes well with anything and
that shade Of brown known as mus
tard brown is one OF the most delight
fuI Of all the new browns.
Taking Il ali IN all concluded this
mod iste. Il should say that there is
nothing to compare in popularity this
spring with the coat and skirt which
has held the center of the stage so
long and which comes forward this
reason with q double show OF popu-
hrity."
The Two Piece Suits.
The coat and skirt suits are made
70 along various lines and upon va
ffous models. The most unique one is
that which h-s = coat cut like a pa
lama coat It IS loose with all the
Other points which make the pa
lama characteristic. full in the front
and in the back. Il buttons up tightly
al the throat and is elaborately
trimmed around the neck and sleeves
and down the front
..,rhs kimono coat. which closely re-
seunbIes the passma coat is always
nopuIar and il VIII be worn this spring
a great deal with q box plated skirt
This coat is At once recognized by the
very vide sleeves and by the curious
manner in which the front is cut 50 as
10 fail away from the neck in kimono
fashion. II is comfortable and dressg.
the ideal matinee coat
There Is the new blazer coat which
every year shows slight changes This
v.ar it is fastened at the bust and is
finished with stoies that hang to the
belt line. Other blazer coats are hip
length with little frills around the
waist line. The prettiest blazers but
ton with two or three buttons and are
as long as basque waist, suggesting
2 basque greatly. They are worn with
or without a belt
There are little Eton suits which
have a familiar look These are for
the NEST part made specially to show
a pretty shirtwaist and are cut away
in such a manner as TO fully display
the waist. the vest, the stock and the