davidaulloa/AmericanStories huggingface dataset:
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02

ting peplum passes around the back and
curves up gently to meet the edges Of tho
coat.
The velvet suit promises to be as much
of favorite this year as last and Its new
suppleness renders 1t extremely desirable
for autumn wear. A model which is suited
TO stout and thin alike has coat OF slight
ly blousing bolero effect, entering a deep
pointed girdle of satin. At the center OF
the back the seam OF the bolero length
ems over the girdle into a plated pos
tIlion that reaches nearly half way down
the skirt. Llght-colored broadcIoth en-
bro ID S in French knots and s9utache
band for turnback velvet cuH. Cordings
Of satln encircle the neck and make a
heading for the hem of the skirt.
No less jaunty is a suit OF cinnamon
brown velour. The skirt is built with cir
cular yoke which falls In a straight seam
to the bottom of the skirt in front At
tached to this yoke and shaped over the
hips by double plaits. the jupe hangs very
full about the feet. barely clearing the
ground. The short Jacket opens with grad
uated stitched folds OF the velvet on either
side. A satin girdle shapes II to the waist
and rings Of soutache braid on white broad
Cloth disks trim cuffs and collar
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02
USUAL FALL REVIVAL
The First Hint of the Fall
and the Tailor-Made.
TRIG TWO-PIECE SUITS
POSITION BACK OR RIPPING
PEPLUM FINISH SHORT COATS.
For Sleeves Lego Mutton Effects,
Plated, Tucked and Strapped,
Are in Vogue.
TRIG TWO-PIECE SUITS

Written for The Star by Katharine Anderson.
First cool days at fashionable autumn re-
sorts bring out no end OF stunning suits
straight from Partisan tailors. Exquisite
in the rich tones of falling leaves and
changing shrubbery, echoes of these smart
garments reach miladi who has returned to
city life and rouse her to the realization
that fall and fashions are once more at
hand.
The tailored suit is of first consideration
In the wardrobe and it is the gown above
all others which determines a woman's
smart appearance. Other frocks may be
unsatisfactory even fall to materalize
because of tightening purse strings but
well-fitted. up-to-date coat and skirt make
a woman feel that she is properly dressed
for any and all occasions.
Just at present details of this all-impor-
tant costume are what most concern the
feminine world. What is to be the length
of the coat? Are the skirts to remain at
a comfortable walking length. and is the
short sleeve to be retired for fall wear7
First fashion breezes from Paris have set
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02

suited to any elegant autumn and winter
service, blue silk or velvet skirt would be
in keeping.
A stunning waist for white cloth skirt
is white rajah silk, with a handsome yoke
and cuffs Of deep cream guipure.
The third bodice is made quantity long
shouldered by three tiny ruffies OF silk,
which trim the shoulders in way TO ac-
complish the effect of a bertha. The elbow
sleeves with their silk and lace ruffies are
very Jaunty, and the front of the little
garment shows the ladder of prim bows
long used. The yoke is of French lace the
bows of black and the waist materials
proper Of black silk, FISH net and electric
blue messaline.
That Touch of Black.
Black is everywhere contrasting note In
the new styles. which brings black velvet
ribbon again to the fore as a valuable waist
, trimming. And the old fashion of contrast
ing rich shades OF blue with black looks,
from the many evidences seen, as If this Is
to be one of the winter fads.
Vatican pink gros-grain silk shapes the
fourth waist, whose black velvet girdle and
front bows would create the necessary har-
mony for black skirt. Bands of the silk
embroidered with black evolve the rest of
the effective garniture.
The NTH waist is the most partifed and
likely to be admired OF all. 1t represents
one of the new seasons daintiest exploits
In lace. taffeta silk and mousseline. all OF
these materials being combined in way
to accomplish very diaphanous and deli
cate appearance. The foundation OF the
bodice Is of apple-blossom pink taffeta silk,
over which a complete bodice OF pink SILK
mousseline Is put, over this again Is hung
white lace applied in a novel yet simple
way, with pink taffeta, and the girdle may
be OF the same material or of panne.
Adds to Girdles.
The cut fit and becomingness of the CIR
waists. for the girdle is in many instances
the main feature. Fashioned upon zone
forms or whalebone in these shapes, the
lyeliest high belts are still seen OF gorgeous
ribbons, made even more fowerlike with
shirrings or rosettes at the rear. and with
a splendid buckle OF some sort at the front,
Such girdle Is extremely becoming to slim
figures, and to get the high modish line
without the shortening tendency OF the
close belts, stouter figures sometimes have
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02
Useful REGIMES

Green pepper curry-Cut slit IN the side
of the peppers and remove seeds Mince
some meat very fine and season with salt.
Add very little garlic, little onion lit
tie lemon Juice and cook with a little
water until the meat is done. Then
stuff the peppers with the meat. Put in
saucepan, into which has been put a cup
or more of cocoanut milk and a little tur-
merie coriander and celery seeds, which
have been previously Drowned and ground
or pulverized. Then add a little green GIN
ger, > little cinnamon and red pepper
Meat from the day before can be used In
this way Serve with rice.
French dressing for salads.-Mix well to-
gether one tablespoonful of salt, one-ha!f
saltspoonful of white pepper, three table
spoonfuls of oil. Ore-quarter teaspoonful OF
onion juice and one tablespoonful OF vim
egar When well mixed pour over the we'll
washed and dried lettuce salad.
Dreamed Sweetbreads-Parboil the sweet
breads, clean of the skin and pipes. drop
them into cold water and let stand until
cold. Cut them very fine. Make a cream
sauce OF one tablespoonful of butter, one
of flour and one cupful OF rich milk. Stir
over the fire until quite thick, add the cut
up sweetbreads and cook them until soft.
Add three sprigs of parsley chopped fine
and glass Of Madeira wine. Serve quickly.
Potato Croquettes.-Boil and mash one
quart bowl full OF potatoes, season with.
butter and salt and beat until light, add
two well-beaten eggs and roll into balls;
roll in egg and bread crumbs and fry in
hot lard.
Lemon Sherbet.-Measure two quarts of
water add the juice of nine lemons one
quart of cut sugar and two welI-bea;en
eggs. Rub the sugar on the rind of the
lemons. When the sugar is melted, freeze
and serve.
Bouillon.-Cut In small pieces three pounds
of solid beef pour over 1t two quarts of
cold water and let it heat gradually on
the back OF the stove. After an hour
bring it forward and boil up. Skim well.
then allow 1t to simmer for six hours Take
off strain and let 1t stand overnight Next
day remove all fat, add one small onion. a
stalk Of celery, two leaves each of sage,
thyme and bay leaves. two three sprigs
of parsley, six whole peppercorns. six whole
cloves and salt to taste. Boil one-half
hour gently, then strain through cheese
cloth. This will make three pints.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02
Ruching Holds.
Take Care of Your Clothes.

Many a girl comes home tired after a
long outing. and as often as not forgets to
shake her skirt free from dust before
hanging 1t up. The pretty hat may be per-
haps put in It's box without a look as to
how feathers or flowers have Jared, veil,
gloves and furs are put away, anyhow.
when just a few moments would never be
missed, and these little attentions would
do away with the tumbled look the clothes
will have when next taken out.
Just a little folding. a little pulling out
of plaits and bows, wiring bent stems of
flowers, shaking out damp feathers-an
will insure a happy condition of things
necessary to the dainty girl.
Silk blouses retain their freshness much
longer when the sleeves are stuffed with
tissue paper before putting them away
Ohis is an excellent plan for dress sleeves
as WELD. and boots last twice as long If
they are put on trees when taken Off. The
shape is kept and the leather doesn't
crinkle. Boot trees are so inexpensive now
adays that they can be INDUCED in by
women with quite moderate dress allow
ances.
Never neglect small repairs-the stitch IN
time saves not only nine, but ninety! Don't
let buttons hang by their last thread; darn
small holes; never wear dirty or tumbled
lace; brush off mud and bind frayed skirts.
Fine feathers make fine birds. but never
go in for only outside show. Your lingerie,
corsets and stockings should be good, II
plain, and always carefully kept in order.
A clean cotton petticoat is better than
shabby silk one, and the smartest boots
look bad If they are worn down at heel
or minus buttons or tidy laces.
Remember the outward appearance Is
often an index of a persons character and
that one is apt to get 'untidy" in ones
character when habits of untidiness are In
dulged in.
The tidy girl makes a tidy wife and a
tidy mother. and her influence goes far,
like the rpples that spread in water after
a stone has been thrown in 1t.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02

dency with many dressy models to lengthen
the shoulders. through either the trimming
or cut. and the back fastenings most gen
orally employed seem Juvenile IN the ex-
IRENE For this rear fastening IS not con-
fined 10 the youthful-mammas. maiden
ouuts and even grandmammas going by
with the propSr complement of back but
tons.
Another point with the ultra-styllsh waist
is that It fits everywhere more snugly than
formerly. and so much IS this tautness
modish feature that women who buy ready
made hOdiCes now ind IL necessary TO get
smaller sizes. For example. wearers who
formerly took a thirty-clght bust. now get
thlrty-siX and II the bodice is properly
made this IS amply large.
In everyday effects. such waists as fol-
low shirt waists lines and are made IN shirt
waist materials, tho gigot sleeve is much
exploited. This is wrist or three-quarter
length. with the fullness OF the top put
In with box or side pleats, The sleeve may
be in one or there may be an under-arm
piece, and with quite q number OF the
models there IL an extra fullness at tho
elbow. which gives the effect Of a top pun
and tight forearm.
St. Patrick's Blue.
The smaller drawing displays two smart
everyday effects with glgot sleeves in the
two lengths The dressier model is OF
French flannel, In the new st. Patrick's
blue with quillings Of narrow black satin
ribbon. This Is put on the front at the
edges OF the button pleat and TO edge two
wide side tucks which border II. The rib
bon also prettlly trims the stock and the
double cuffs OF the three-quarter sleeves.
The girdle Is Of black satin with blue and
black metal buckle and the round buttons
are in tho same material.
The second waist which Is OF white wool
albatross, continues through a red and
white plaid braid sort of continuity OF
COSTUME for the skirt is entirely OF red and
4 lot O
yoke effect is outlined by the braid, the
same design and plain bands appearing
upon the sleeves.
AL sorts OF soft wool textures vie with
soft finished linens among the latest shirt
materials offered. for without doubt shirt
waists In wash linens and cottons will be
worn the winter through. The tub models.
which continue to show marvellous nicely
OF finish, and hand embroideries and braid
ings of indescribable beauty. are undeniably
the best Investments. These waists. which
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02
A New Fall Waist.

This beautiful waist is made of silk, OF
fine mohair in one Of the lighter colors or
of lightweight cloth. 1t is slightly pouched
in front and quite plain in the back, with
the exception Of the arrangement of the
braid, which has quilted edges The dainty
trimming down the front Is also Of the
braid, with two rows Of silk buttons
Braids all ready for application to gar
ments in intricate and beautiful designs are
among the novelties for fall trimming, and
a plan waist can be made into a thing of
beauty in a few minutes by the applica-
ton OF these braid designs.
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02

are invariably In white. may be worn with
skirts of any color and the degree of i'm
maculate freshness they must display gives
always a look of handbook neatneSS. Few
yokes are cut in the garment but trim
mings shape many pointed. round and
square yoke effects. and while buttoning
a the back. a number of the dressier bod
ices are trimmed down the front with Il
vest look.
Unlimited Styles.
In the matter OF the dressy bodices, their
scope is unlimited, and though presumably
odd models. with the colored ones, effort
is always made to carry out look of con-
tInulty with the skirts worn. The white
waist, whatever its material, Is at home
with a skirt of any color, but the bodice
with red. blue, rose or green, needs skirt
which at least repeats touch of one of
these colOrs, else the get-up seems very
patchy. For this reason, perhaps, black and
white waists, which may be worn with
smart black skirts. have come to represent
ices. which are In liberty satin. messaiine
and other soft silks, open frequently over
ChemiSetteS of white embroidered batiSte,
with the delicate unlined stock of these
lightly featherboned and fitting as tight as
skin Sometimes there are also under
sleeves of embroidered batiste, they and
the guimpe showing tiny ruChes of Valen-
ciennes lace, and such set often offering
itself detached from the bodice. and flaunt-
ing a price mark eXtravagantly high. For
the point with these dainty details Is the
fauitless fashion in which they are con-
structed So there is nothing for the girl
of small means but to get busy and make
her own Chemisettes and undersleeves, for
in all likelihood these pretty trappings will
it,,
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02
FALL SUGGESTIONS
Shoulder Lines Are Longer
Than in Summer.
VERY TRIM ELEGANCE
GIGoT SLEEVE FOR THE REAL
SHIRT WAIST.
Soft Wool Textures Are Rivals of Silk
and Linen-Self- Tone
Skirts
VERY TRIM ELEGANCE
Special Correspondence Of The Star

NEW YORK. September l. 1905.
There is no diminuton in the prestige
OF the separate waist That admirable lit
tie garment. which can be made to suit
all times and seasons, Is as much exploited
as ever among the new styles. If anything
It may be said to have achieved a more
envlable position. for nowadays the odd
bodice which is merely an odd bodice is
scarcely counted in the calendar of fash
Ion. The waist. different from the skirt,
strives for a mOdish individuality, and the
finer handmade sorts, even in lingerie
might almost appear at court without chal-
lenge.
The first thing noticed about the new odd
bodices Is their marked departure from
the old blousing lines. There is only the
slightest bagging OF the front. and this
change. with the high glrdling and dressy
sleeve effects, promotes. In proper mate
rials, most elegant look. There IS a ten
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02
A String of Five.

The drawing showing five bodices displays
some new effects and materials for dressy
odd waists.
The plaid model at the right of the row of
sitting maidens is perhaps the most novel
of all, for the pattern in this is made by a
blue and black plaid silk lining. over which
blue silk mousseine is placed The shirred
guimpe and under puffs of the elbow sleeves
are of white silk mOusseine; the girde and
sleeve puffs blue panne, and the jabot and
sleeve frills of the white mousselne, en-
broidered. With such a bodice, which is
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02

stand out noticeably as being fashioned on
the approved lines. One is a princess ef-
feet with bolero outlined in braid, and the
other bears the stamp of the summers silk
redlngote. From the bust line II is shaped
snugly to the figure by inverted plaits
which open out just below the hips into
very full skirt.
The style of the sleeve is no less pro-
nounced than the coat which it finishes.
Lego mutton effects plated and tucked
and strapped to do away with any extra
fullness. are unquestionably the sleeves for
the tailored coat. For everyday wear
jackets show a tight-fitting cuff from elbow
to wrist, built as snugy the under sleeve
will allow. Elbow sleeves are worn with
the more dressy style OF coat. although the
plain jacket has q Stimulates short sleeve
ending in tight cuff.
Still in Favor.
In the matter of skirts, the very much
plated jupe has by no means gone out Of
favor. Short skirts particularly display
plated effects. many OF them being
stitched down half way to the knees,
while others are pressed in stiff box
plaits quite to the edge of the skirt. All
are shaped snugly around the hips and
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02

strips OF the material joined in points at
the middle band OF this same trimming
outlines the collarless neck and extends
down to the left bust. From this point
the jacket buttons diagonally over to the
right, each side Of the coat sloping of to
the under arm seam at the waist line to
reveal a pointed satin girdle. A tlght-fit-
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02

them made in skeleton form of very narrow
black velvet ribbon.
A set, consisting of girdle, collar and cuff
pieces. may also sometimes be found in the
shops, made up in highly ornamental
way. These aid the home dressmaker ire
mendousiy in the construction of a bodice.
and the linen sets which show colored en-
broideries are really stunning.
For very fine waists jeweled buttons will
again be a feature of the winter and the
more splendid of these will be in the form
or a large single stone set simply in a rim
of metal. On a bodice OF green lace were
buttons Of genuine Montana sapphires. in
paier shade, which seemed as glorious as
diamonds.
made of composition materials to look like
wood. Will also be worn in matching COL
ors. with the smartest bodices: So. 30 Is the
price OF such necklaces in their best shapes
ana they are seen in all of the delicate col
ors, as well as white and black The finish
IS dull. thus giving a Roman pearl look to
the tender pinks and blues
Habit Tails.
Apropos of very fine bodices authoritative
advices state that number of the waists
for gauze and lace evening frocks will be
made with habit tails. One OF Irish lace
with tiny revcrs. was described as worn
over a rose-co.ored chemisette caught In
at the waist with a corselet belt of soft
willow green. with three tails of the green
alternating with tails of lace. Irish lace
butterflies. with green silk bodies dacked
the front Of the mousseline vest in lieu of
buttons.
The shortness of fine bodice sleeves has
also revived the taste for bracelets. which
are TO be worn in enormous numbers Tho
new styles in these include many coin ban
gle sorts and pliable gold hoops. set brooch
fasmon. the oval or round ornament often
showing single brilliant stone.
Inc modish glove for the short-sleeved
bodice is pre-eminently black, whatever the
color Of the waist. Some imported black
lace gloves seen We're stitched at the back
finish of colored kid at the top,
MARY DEAN
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02
tied many Of these questions

tied many Of these questions
The coat for the tamored suit will take
one of two extremes. 1t will be either very
short or very long on redngote lines. Bo-
leros with fancy vests will be worn much
in the early fall days, but the woman who
is choosing her suit TO last all winter should
select a snug-fitting Jacket, finished with
either position back or ripping peplum, or
with skirt attached which reaches to the
ankles. Position tails are decidedly in evil
dence on the latest models Fitted girdles
seen on last seasons coats extend below Tie
short jacket and give the long-waisted eff
feet so much sought after
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02
Full Skirted Effects.

Stunning as is the redingote on a stately
figure, the majority Of women should think
twice before selecting one. They will be
especially trying this fall because of the
extra fullness in the skirt. Two models
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02

Ask your grocer for Burnett's Vanilla.
No state pure food commission has ever
questioned its absolute purity. Use it.-Advt
Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, 1905-09-02
In Blue and White.

Tremendously chic for youthful figure
is q coat and skirt OF blue and white
striped serge. At the head of the hem of
the jupe are laid oblong motifs made from
The Hope pioneer. [volume] (Hope, N.D.) 1882-1964, 1905-04-13
A Weiqhty Reason.

The other afternoon. while talking
to his gardener, a certain Yorkshire
gentleman expressed the opinion that
the ivy1on the end of the porch was Gin
a Bad way" Indeed, he was half in:
clined to pull it down. He subsequent.
ly mentioned the matter to his wife,
who, however, was strongly against
such a course.
"Ah, JOHN remarked the gentle.
man. on meeting his gardener the next
morning, "about that ivy. Mrs. X
prefers to let it remain as it is. She
advances many good reasons why it
should not be destroyed"
well sir" replied John, "the lady's
entitled to her opinion, of course, but
that ivy ought to come down, y'know."
Perhaps it should
"And I've got a good reason or two
for saying So" went on the gardener.
"In the first place, it's a regular heye-
sore; in the second, it harbors spar.
rows, and sparrows is a n%oosance; in
the third. you had a sort of an idea it
ought to come down yesterday; and
in the fourth-well, I cut it down last
uight, sir"
Mr.. X appreciated the Fourth
reason far better than did his wife.
The Hope pioneer. [volume] (Hope, N.D.) 1882-1964, 1905-04-13

Experimental Plots.

l must acknowledge that I have
been slow in taking advantage of my
opportunities. l farmed the old place
for many years without attempting to
ind out what it needed in the way of
fertilizer. In fact, robbed a part of
the farm and kept up another part
and did not know what 1 was doing.
| used to haul out the I'M every
spring and put it all onto the fields
in which l grow potatoes and corn.
mat was very good for those parti-
cular fields, but was a little hard on
the land that did not get any of the
manure. l put it on the same fields
every year because 1 believed that
every year the corn and potatoes
took out all l put on L am now salts
hed that there was a residue left that
was not really needed on those fields
and, would have been paying me bet
ter interest had it been put on some
OF h fields that have never had any
oarnyard azure.
IN attending a farmers institute 1
heard the matter of experimental plots
discussed and thought l would try
n on some of the poorest parts Of
my farm. | measured, off two acres
and put no fertilizer on one and var
lous kinds of fertilizers on the other
IN strips. I left the first acre for a
check. / put on the other acre about
1000 pounds of lime and some phos-
pilates. and a strip on that acre vas
treated with nitrogen and another
with both phosphorus and nitrogen in
a commercial form.
The results were remarkable, and I
have since been wondering why l did
not do it before. I found that the
phosphorus and nitrogen were both
deficient. l made In application per
acre of about $50 pounds of bone meal
on a forty-acre field and put on some
barnyard manure, enough to give a
little more nitrogen and humus to
each acre.
1t is astonishing how we will run
along in the same rut for many years
and neve think of what is and what
might be, till we have an object les
son that brings the truth home to us.
l am but just beginning to teach my
self by the help of experimental plots
and l intend to continue the good
work.
Adams Co., III. Augustus Mihill.